CLIMBING STYLE | TRAVERSE THE SIERRA | VEDAUWOO VOODOO AUGUST 2016
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Celebrating the High Country
CHOOSE YOUR
FOURTEENER TRAMPLED UNDERFOOT
THE FATE OF THE PEAKS
THE HIMALAYAN STOVE PROJECT
HIKING
COLORADO’S NATIONAL PARKS
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When it’s tailgating time, we’re all equal on
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CONTENTS
August 2016
SUMMER
BLOWOUT SALE
ON THE EDGE: KENNAN HARVEY SEEKS NEW HEIGHTS ON THE SIERRA'S EVO TRAVERSE. SEE PG 40
DEPARTMENTS
FEATURES
7 EDITOR’S LETTER
22 THE ULTIMATE FOURTEENER GUIDE
Celebrate the National Park Service.
8 QUICK HITS Steve House's mentor program, Gore Range hikes, Vedauwoo and more!
12 FLASHPOINT The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative is getting dirty to save summit trails.
15 HOT SPOT Hike in Colorado's national parks.
Guide book author James Dzienzyski takes you on a personal tour up Colorado's peaks over 14,000 feet, with the best alternate routes, best peaks for dogs and the hardest summits. Plus, Fourteener know-how and the best peaks for beginners.
30 MEET THE TOP OUTDOOR SCHOOLS EO's readers picked the best colleges for outdoor-minded students.
16 THE TRAIL Use the ViewRanger app to stand atop the summit of Mount Harvard.
35 ABROAD
19 NUMEROLOGY
36 GEAR UP
Colorado climbing by the numbers.
You'll want the right gear and apparel for that hot date up on the crags.
21 STRAIGHT TALK George Basch's Himalayan Stove Project transforms lives in Nepal.
Hit the mountains Euro-style!
photo above by KENNAN HARVEY
39 HEAR THIS New tunes from bands touring the front range in August and September.
40 THE ROAD Kennan Harvey seeks the key to the knife edges of the Evo Traverse.
42 ELWAYVILLE Mountain folk never get old.
WANT MORE? CATC H
U P ON PAST ISSU ES, YOU R FAVORITE B LOG G E RS A N D DAILY ON LIN E-ON LY CON TEN T AT ElevationOutdoors.com ON TH E COV ER: FOU RTEEN ER D REA M IN G IN FRON T OF G R AYS A N D TOR R EYS (SEE PAG E 22). PH OTO BY: LIA M D OR A N / LIA M D OR A NPH OTOGR A PH Y.C OM
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Estes Park, base camp for Rocky Mountain National Park, is home to fantastic festivals all year long. Here are some highlights: Rocky Mountain Half Marathon & 5K - July 29th & 30th Estes Park Wine Festival – August 13th & 14th Rocky Mountain National Park Free Entrance Days – August 25th-28th Labor Day Weekend and Arts & Crafts Show – September 3rd-5th Longs Peak Scottish Irish Highland Festival – September 8th-11th Elk Fest – October 1st & 2nd Pumpkins & Pilsners – October 15th Fall Back Beer Fest – November 5th Base camp for Rocky Mountain National Park | VisitEstesPark.com/events
CONTRIBUTORS
ElevationOutdoors.com EDITORIAL ED ITOR-IN -CH IEF
DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN
doug@elevationoutdoors.com MA N AG IN G ED ITOR
CAMERON MARTINDELL
cameron@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR ED ITOR
CHRIS KASSAR
chris@elevationoutdoors.com IN TER N
KATIE PELLICORE
play@elevationoutdoors.com CON TRIBUTIN G ED ITORS
AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, JAYME MOYE, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN ED ITOR-AT-LARG E
PETER KRAY
C ON TRIBUTIN G WRITERS
M. MICHAEL BRADY, JEFF BLUMENFELD, KRISTEN DOBROTH, JEDD FERRIS, KIM FULLER, KENNAN HARVEY, AVERY STONICH, JONATHAN WATERMAN, BETSY WELCH, MELANIE WONG, ANDREW ZIMMERMAN ART + PRODUCTION MEGAN JORDAN
08.16
WHAT MOUNTAIN DO YOU DREAM OF CLIMBING? DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN I would love to experience an 8,000 meter peak—maybe Broad Peak or Cho Oyu.
ELIZABETH O'CONNELL I'd like to tackle Freel Peak in the lake Tahoe basin someday, but have a lot of peaks left in Colorado to knock out first.
CAMERON MARTINDELL Ever since doing the Annapurna circuit in Nepal, the Nilgiri Himal has attracted my attention.
CHRIS KASSAR Ama Dablam, though I'm not sure I'll ever have the guts.
ART D IREC TOR
megan@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR D ESIG N ER
LAUREN WALKER
lauren@elevationoutdoors.com G R A PH IC D ESIG N ER
PAIGELEE CHANCELLOR
paigelee@elevationoutdoors.com
ADVERTISING + BUSINESS BLAKE DEMASO
PRESID EN T
blake@elevationoutdoors.com PU B LISH ER
ELIZABETH O’CONNELL
elizabeth@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE
MARTHA EVANS
martha@elevationoutdoors.com AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE
BEN YOUNG
ben@elevationoutdoors.com
BU SIN ESS MAN AG ER
MELISSA GESSLER
melissa@elevationoutdoors.com C IRC U LATION MA N AG ER
HANNAH COOPER
hcooper@elevationoutdoors.com ON LIN E
DIGITAL MEDIA D IR EC TOR CRAIG SNODGRASS craig@elevationoutdoors.com
D IG ITA L MA N AG ER
TYRA SUTAK
tyra@elevationoutdoors.com
E L E VAT I O N OU T D O O R S M AG A Z I N E
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CHRIS VAN LEUVEN The Diamond on Longs Peak. It’s big, hard and is plagued by thunder showers (at least, those have been my excuses). Once, a partner and I nearly completed Curving Vine (5.11a), but we bailed near the top when we saw clouds building. I’m over making up excuses. It’s time.
KIM FULLER The “Mummy Kill” is what we call doing all six peaks in the Mummy Range in one day: Chapin, Chiquita, Ypsilon, Fairchild, Hagues, Mummy. I have done CCY, but getting the full Kill in one day is still on my bucket list.
JONATHAN WATERMAN I dreamed about a pilgrimage to Denali's summit on my 60th birthday, and since it actually came true on June 12, I can't stop dreaming about it.
AARON BIBLE Capitol Peak is a fourteener that's eluded me for many years. It's often considered the most difficult of the bunch, and it overlooks one of the most beautiful areas of the state.
EDITOR’S LETTER
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REAL DEAL: RANGER BETTY REID SOSKIN IS 94 AND STILL WORKING. photo courtesy NPS
CELEBRATING SERVICE On Augsut 25, the National Park Service (NPS) celebrates its 100th birthday. There have been many celebrations surrounding national parks in magazines (including EO) and across the Internet, which is important, especially considering the current, distressing war on the idea of public lands being waged by some extremist politicians. And while trumpeting the parks themselves is critical, it somewhat leaves out the most important part of this story. This should also be a celebration of the people who protect and manage the parks—the rangers and even administrators who make up the NPS, the service itself. The idea of a national park hatched long before 1916, when President Woodrow Wilson signed the bill that created the NPS as part of the Department of Interior. The planet's first national park was Yellowstone, carved out of the American frontier in 1872 when it was still raw. Soon, this revolutionary idea resonated with the people of the U.S. and the world. The painter George Catlin, considered one of the germinators of the concept exclaimed: “What a beautiful and thrilling specimen for America to preserve and hold up to the view of her refined citizens and the world in future ages! A Nation's Park, containing man and beast, in all the wild and freshness of their nature's beauty!” After thousands of years of reshaping nature, humans had decided it had a right to remain as it is, and maybe even that they need it that way. The only problem was that keeping everything from poachers to wildfires managed and at bay in these protected landscapes, which by 1906 included national monuments, was a difficult task. The creation of the NPS sought to give the parks and monuments guardians on the ground. The task of those managers and rangers has since evolved. While they enforce park rules and federal laws in the wilds and in the often too crowded frontcountry, they are also educators. The best way to protect is to teach visitors the deep ecological and human history of these places, to light a fire in them that makes them also become guardians of what little is left of the once boundless American wilderness. The national park system has evolved, too. It is more than simply wild places. It now includes urban recreation areas and historical sites like the Charles Young Buffalo Soldiers National Monument and the Caesar E. Chavez National Monument and Rosie the Riveter/World War II Home Front National Historical Park in California. Ninety-four-year-old Betty Reid Soskin, the oldest ranger to work for the NPS, still speaks to visitors at the latter. Other rangers like Shelton Johnson teach about some of the first park rangers, those buffalo soldiers, black army regiments sent to protect the parks after the Civil War. Beyond these deep contributions, there are also the everyday NPS employees who hand out maps and clean bathrooms. There is the ranger who climbed down into a kiva with me and my kids at Mesa Verde National Park to better tell us the story of the people who once lived there. There are the patient law enforcement officers. There are even those faceless administrators who do the dull, dirty work of keeping these parks operating. Let's celebrate them all this month. Thank them when you visit your next site in the national park system. They are why it's still here, and growing. A U G U S T 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M
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QUICK HITS
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LOW BLOW: AT 12,180 FEET, MOUNT ZIRKEL IS ONE OF COLORADO'S BEST NOT-SO-HIGH PEAKS. photo by JAMES DZIEZYNSKI
TECHNOLOGY SEEK Instead of whipping out the flashlight when you hear a strange noise in the night while camping, point any of the products from Seek at it. The devices give a thermal imaging readout of what's lurking around in the dark. Available in a stand alone unit or as an attachment to your smartphone. $250-$470; thermal.com
GEAR WE LOVE SPURCYCLE Still yelling “on your left” or using that childish bike bell? It's time to step up your bike-path game. Spurcycle just released this greatlooking and uniquesounding bell that sends out a single, pleasant, dare we say sophisticated tone. Plus, it resonates up to three times longer than most bells. $49; spurcycle.com
BOOKS YOSEMITE IN THE FIFTIES Anyone who climbs, or is even interested in the sport and its history, is sure to love Yosemite in the Fifties: The Iron Age. It's filled with historic photographs showing how those massive walls were first scaled back then, accompanied by the stories from those who did it. $60; patagonia.com
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OFF-PEAK CLIMBS BAG FOUR OF COLORADO’S LOWER, AND LESS-CROWDED, SUMMITS. “The less popular, non-fourteeners offer solitude— in most cases—and showcase viewpoints, geology and wildlife often not seen from high-traffic peaks,” shares James Dziezynski, Elevation Outdoors contributing editor and author of the Best Summit Hikes in Colorado (see page 22). Dziezynski's latest book covers all the summit hikes along I-70 between Denver and Vail. In the meantime, take a look at four of his favorite nonFourteener peaks:
NOTCH MOUNTAIN 13,077 FEET Looking for a jaunt up a peak close to the busy lanes of I-70? Notch is just the ticket. HIKE: The Fall Creek trailhead is south of Minturn and five miles up Tigiwon Road #707. This route up Notch is rated class 2+. It’s 9.5 miles round trip with an elevation gain of about 3,480 feet. Know your route well, since hikers often get lost in this area. BEFORE AND AFTER: Hikers can stay at The Bunkhouse, the new hostel in Minturn, or camp off of Tigiwon Road. For post-hike beers and barbecue, stop at Kirby Cosmo’s right on Main Street.
MOUNT SOPRIS 12,966 FEET Sporis might not be a Fourteener (or even a Thirteener) but it's one of the most iconic summits in the Roaring Fork Valley. HIKE: Take the paved Prince Creek Road off of Highway 133 out of Carbondale for about 8 miles to the Thomas Lakes trailhead at Dinkle Lake. The class 1 Thomas Lakes route is 12.6 miles round trip with an elevation gain of about 4,600 feet. BEFORE AND AFTER: Carbondale is the closest town, with inns and motels, or you can camp near Thomas Lakes at the foot of the mountain. Grab eats at Town, a local watering hole on Main Street.
MOUNT ZIRKEL 12,180 FEET Zirkel's low elevation keeps crowds away. That's a good thing, since it's one of the best wilderness peak hikes in the state (despite the low profile). HIKE: Start at the Slovania trailhead, northwest of Steamboat Springs. The class 2 Slovenia Basin route is a 17.2 miles round-trip with about 3,800 feet elevation gain. The wildflower-filled hike can also be broken up into an overnight trip. BEFORE AND AFTER: Stay in one of the campgrounds along Seedhouse Road. Apres-hike, drive to Steamboat Springs for food at The Rusted Porch.
CALIFORNIA PEAK 13,849 FEET Dziezynski says the long ridges of this summit are perfect for a steady climb, without major exposure. HIKE: This hike in the Sangre de Cristo Range can be accessed from the Lower or Upper Huerfano trailheads. The Lower and Upper Huerfano routes are rated class 2. They are 8.4 miles or 10.6 miles round trip, respectively, with both routes just over 4,000 feet elevation gain. BEFORE AND AFTER: Check out happy hour in Westcliffe from 3 to 5 p.m. at the Wine Mine. —Kim Fuller
GORE GALORE THERE’S MORE TO VAIL THAN WI-FI EQUIPPED GONDOLAS AND HEATED SIDEWALKS. THESE EAST VAIL HIKING TRAILS SERVE UP EXTENSIVE ACCESS INTO THE WILDS OF THE GORE RANGE. GET ACQUAINTED: GORE CREEK TRAIL Meander alongside Gore Creek as it rambles through pine and aspen forests for approximately four miles. Head left at the fork marked by two early pioneers’ graves. Continue for two miles as the trail nears treeline. Finish the ascent at pristine Gore Lake.
photo by STEAMBOAT WINE FESTIVAL
photo courtesy STEVE HOUSE
TRAILHEAD: From Exit 180 (East Vail), head south before turning east onto Bighorn Road. Follow Bighorn Road until it ends. Trailhead parking will be on your left. LENGTH: Six miles one-way ELEVATION GAIN: 2,755 feet
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL: RED BUFFALO PASS Plan to get an early start for this oneway hike that takes trekkers over Red Buffalo and Eccles Passes from East Vail to Frisco. From the Gore Creek Trail, walk four miles before coming to the fork marked by pioneers' graves, and head right, over the creek, following signs for Red Buffalo Pass. While the beginning of this split offers a more lackadaisical stroll, the trail then steeply climbs past treeline as it nears the top of the pass. Follow cairns into Summit County, and head toward the alpine lakes at the unmarked fork. The smaller summit of Eccles Pass marks the final ascent, before you descend towards the signed Meadow Creek Trail, which ends at the Meadow Creek Trailhead. TRAILHEAD: Use the Gore Creek trailhead, located in East Vail, but leave a car for shuttling purposes at Meadow Creek Trailhead in Frisco, located alongside I-70. LENGTH: 13.1 miles. ELEVATION GAIN: 3,210 feet.
STAY THE NIGHT Gore Creek Campground is conveniently located next to the Gore Creek Trailhead, and it's an opportune site from which you
can base a weekend’s worth of exploration. For those looking for less established accommodations, there are a few primitive sites available beginning at mile four of Gore Creek Trail. Campers should be wary of seasonal fire restrictions. —Kirsten Dobroth
SINGLETRACK SISTERS SET INTIMIDATION ASIDE AND GET OUT TO RIDE. Becoming a better mountain biker requires practicing essential skills, but ladies are less likely than their bros to hone them by binging on bike porn and hitting the park. Enter VIDA, a Summit County, Coloradobased organization whose mission is to cultivate women’s passion for mountain biking through high-quality instruction. For $375, the clinics and workshops offer coaching that cultivates and celebrates the entire lifestyle of women riders: It begins with skills and drills in a field and progresses to practical application on the trails or bike park. Yoga, tech talks and happy hour (!) round out the packages. Women walk away from VIDA clinics with more confidence and curiosity on the bike and a lifelong membership in the VIDA community of riders. VIDA just kicked off it’s summer flagship clinic series at Trestle Bike Park in Winter Park, Colorado, and has planned plenty more riding in fast, flowy, and
STEVE HOUSE WANTS TO CREATE A CULTURE OF LEARNING AND TEACHING IN THE CLIMBING COMMUNITY.
VAIL, UNTAMED: HIKE UP ALONG GORE CREEK. (TOP LEFT) photo by KIRSTEN DOBROTH SOUL SISTER, SOUL SISTER: VIDA COACHES GET LADIES STOKED FOR THE SEASON AT THEIR SPRING CLINIC IN SEDONA, ARIZONA. (TOP RIGHT) photo by BETSY WELCH
fun locales around the country. The VIDA Flagship Clinic schedule in 2016 includes stops in Snowmass, Colorado, August 6-7, and Park City, Utah, August 13-14. More dates and info at vidamtb.com. —Betsy Welch
LOCAL HERO LEGENDARY COLORADO CLIMBER STEVE HOUSE WANTS TO PLAY IT FORWARD AND BECOME YOUR MENTOR. When Steve House spotted the Rupal Face of Pakistan’s 26,600-foot Nanga Parbat in 1990, he knew he had to climb it one day. An imposing 13,500-foot demon of rock, snow, and ice, it’s one of the most daunting routes on Earth. House finally topped out on the peak in 2005—a pinnacle accomplishment in a career that includes many first ascents.
Five years later, after surviving a bad fall, House decided to start giving back to the sport he loves. He hatched the idea of Alpine Mentors, a nonprofit dedicated to cultivating new generations of world-class climbers. Now in its third session, Alpine Mentors nurtures four climbers at a time through a two-year program that includes climbing and personal development. It isn’t just about creating better climbers. It’s about creating better people. “Climbing is our vehicle for knowing ourselves and developing as humans,” says House. Society often celebrates ascents without acknowledging the process that led to summit day. House says he is methodically building a chain of mentors that will grow over time. He’s no stranger to long-term goals. Nanga Parbat, after all, took 15 years. alpinementors.org –Avery Stonich
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GORE-TEX, GORE, SURROUND and GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY are trademarks of W. L. Gore & Associates. Injected version of outsole with N-INJECTECH®. MERRELL and the M Circle Design are registered trademarks of Wolverine Outdoors, Inc., a subsidiary of Wolverine World Wide, Inc. ©2016 Wolverine Outdoors, Inc. All rights reserved.
UP FOR WARM, WET, OR WHATEVER.
THE CAPRA VENTURE
WITH GORE-TEX® SURROUND® CONSTRUCTION THAT WRAPS FEET IN VISIBLY BREATHABLE, DURABLY WATERPROOF TECHNOLOGY.
QUICK HITS
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THE CAPRA VENTURE BRING THE BIKE: CLOSE BY VEDAUWOO AND LARAMIE, CURT GOWDY STATE PARK SERVES UP MILES OF ROLLICKING, WELL-MARKED SINGLETRACK THAT WINDS THROUGH FORESTS, HIGH PLAINS AND ALONG THE PARK'S RESERVOIR. photo by BEN HENSON
VEDAUWOO, WYOMING LOCATED JUST THREE HOURS NORTH OF DENVER, THIS ROCKY PLAYGROUND IS A QUICK ESCAPE FOR ADVENTURE, PACKED WITH WORLD-CLASS ROCK CLIMBING, BIKING AND HIKING EAT The closest dining options are in Laramie, an easy 25-minute drive away. Laramie’s downtown boasts a number of mom-and-pop establishments, including fresh, eclectic fare at Jeffrey’s Bistro (jeffreysbistro.com). For veggiefriendly food that will also please non-vegetarians, try Sweet Melissa’s Café (307-742-9607). Quick breakfast and a caffeine fix come amidst towering shelves of books at the cozy Night Heron Bookstore and Coffeehouse (nightheronbooks. com). For a true local experience, grab drinks and people watch at The Buckhorn (307-742-3554), an historic cowboy bar decked out with everything from odd taxidermy to war memorabilia. Look for the bullet hole in the bar mirror and the twoheaded calf.
SLEEP Camping is plentiful around Happy Jack Recreation Area, Vedauwoo
and Curt Gowdy State Park, all located 20-30 minutes from Laramie. Around Vedauwoo, you can also find dispersed camping off the side of the road. In Laramie, a number of budget hotel options are also available at very reasonable prices.
PLAY Vedauwoo, with its distinctive granite formations bubbling out of the earth, is a memorable rock climbing destination. The area is best known for its off-width climbing, featuring large, challenging routes. Those seeking more traditional climbs will also enjoy Vedauwoo’s wide selection of sport and crack routes, as well as bouldering areas (be sure to bring bug spray). Mountain bikers can ride for hours at either Happy Jack or Curt Gowdy State Park, where the singletrack varies between enjoyably easy to frustratingly technical. Still, there’s something for every rider here, and the views of the nearby reservoir and the high plains are unparalleled. We suggest the IMBA Epic route, Stone Temple Loop for an intermediate ride, and Mo’ Rocka if you’ve got some serious skills. For directions, trail conditions, maps and bike service, stop by The Pedal House (pedalhouse.com) in Laramie. For a fun day hike, try Box Canyon Trail, which offers scrambling, room to explore and stunning views from the top of Glen Dome. —Melanie Wong
PALEO 101 The Paleo Diet, more a lifestyle than a weight-loss strategy, has gained much support over the past few years. So what exactly is it? Simply stated, it’s a model that follows human evolution for clues and guidance with regards to optimal nutrition. Researchers have noted that starting around 9,500 B.C.E., the rise in agriculture forever changed the way we eat. Proponents of the Paleo diet believe we should return to the way humans ate before the advent of agriculture. There's one problem: We have become addicted to man-made tastes and textures. These habits are difficult to break. Recently, medical doctors have begun to realize the potential of a Paleo diet and how it can improve health. Dr. Jack Kruse, and Dr. Robert Lustig, in particular, have published groundbreaking evidence in support of a Paleo lifestyle that avoids fake food while engaging in vigorous physical activity. There is no perfect way to be Paleo. Rather, it is up to each adherent to determine what eating strategy works best, based on individual biochemistry and health concerns. It boils down to one basic principle: Most all what we need to thrive can be found in the foods that we evolved eating. jackkruse.com —Andrew Zimmerman
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FLASHPOINT
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ROCK SOLID: A COLORADO FOURTEENERS INITIATIVE CREW DOES WHAT IT DOES BEST—REBUILDS HIGH ALPINE TRAIL THAT HAS SUFFERED AT THE SOLES OF PEAK BAGGERS.
BAGGED OUT? PEAK BAGGERS ARE LOVING COLORADO’S MOST FAMOUS PEAKS TO DEATH, BUT THE COLORADO FOURTEENERS INITIATIVE IS ON A QUEST TO SAVE THEM— ONE CLOD OF ALPINE TUNDRA AT A TIME. by JONATHAN WATERMAN
Serial peak baggers can't resist mountain ranges. Their most renowned target lists include the Seven Summits, New England’s numerous Four Thousand Footer Clubs, and Colorado’s 53 Fourteeneers. But that's just the beginning. In the U.S. alone there are now 72 major peak climbing clubs—excluding, say, New Jersey’s 52, 1,000-foot Humble Hills or Ohio’s 17 Fire Lookouts. Traditional adventurers contend that peak bagging reduces the experience of an ascent to an obsessive sport rather than a spiritual pilgrimage. But one thing is certain: Peak bagging motivates a growing number of climbers to keep grasping photo by ELI ALLAN
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for new high points. Whether they are simply collecting these peaks so that they can tick them off on a list, or whether they are seeking aesthetic enlightenment—or both—the increased traffic impacts everyone’s wilderness experience or chance for solitude, and, worse, causes trail erosion and creates a myriad of new user paths that damage fragile, abovetreeline ecosystems. Is there no way to mitigate the onslaught?
SOLITUDE LOST
The ritualistic climbing of multiple peaks is not a modern phenomenon. More than 4,000 years ago, the Chinese ruler Shun began hoofing it up four, 4-6000-foot peaks surrounding his kingdom every five years. On the summits, he made sacrifices to heaven and earth, initiating an ongoing peak-climbing pilgrimage (later adding a fifth sacred summit) for tens of thousands of Chinese and Taoist devotees. A couple of millenia later, in 219 B.C. to be precise, the consecrated stone steps up 5,069-foot Tai Shan were thronged with retinues trailing the latest Emperor for six miles. Likewise, today, if you are hiking up Colorado’s highest peak, 14,439foot Mt. Elbert, (unless you’re collecting the fourteeneers in winter,
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at midnight, or by bushwhacking their backsides), you won’t be alone. Modern peak bagging got reinvigorated in 1923 by Carl Blaurock and Bill Ervin, who first climbed all of the fourteeners. (Two years later, famed conservationists Bob and George Marshall followed the trend by climbing all 46 4,000ers in the Adirondacks.) Blaurock, an adroit technical climber and charter member of the Colorado Mountain Club (CMC) popularized fourteener bagging through the century-old, highly socialized hiking institution.
his partners saw no other climbers on 19 of the most popular fourteeners. The solitude, of course, didn’t last. “I don’t think anyone could’ve foreseen this huge explosion of climbers as the fourteeners became a rite of passage,” Borneman says about the two decades following his the publication of his guidebook. Colorado grew by 1.5 million people. Scores of fourteener books would be published (Guide to Colorado’s Fourteeners eventually sold more than 90,000 copies). Just as increasing pilgrimages
“I don’t think anyone could’ve foreseen this huge explosion of climbers as the fourteeners became a rite of passage” By 1978, the new traffic justified the publication of a Climbing Guide to Colorado’s Fourteeners. It’s authors, Lyndon Lampert and Walt Borneman, instructed readers as to where they could find the trailheads and gave general information about summit route-finding, imploring readers to “respect the mountains and walk in harmony with the land” two decades before Leave No Trace gained traction. Shortly before publishing their book, Borneman and
before the time of Christ wore trenches up the sacred peaks in China, the postmodern fourteeners began to show wear and tear. In particular the last 2,500 feet below the summits are comprised of fragile plants and mats of delicate tundra. Some of these plants can’t be found anywhere else in the world, and evolved over the eons to preserve moisture in the parched, windswept world above treeline. This flora— including alpine blue grass, moss
campion and cushion plants—can take years to sprout a blossom or stalk. Meanwhile, summit-focused peak baggers oblivious to the Lilliputian universe of botany below their waffle soles unknowingly dispatch whole colonies with each staggering step up toward ticking off another peak. Even worse, the lack of defined routes up the tundra has invited climbers to wander indiscriminately, causing spiderwebbed and rutted trails, in turn deepened and further eroded by snowmelt and rainfall channeling water down these unnatural routes. Washed off sediment then smothers adjacent plants. The fourteeners are being loved to death.
DIGGING IN
By the mid 1990s other users and conservation groups—including the CMC, the American Mountain Foundation (renamed Rocky Mountain Field Institute, now restoring trails on the Sangre De Christo fourteeners), the Colorado Outward Bound School and Leave No Trace—formed a coalition intent on stopping the damage. Known as the Colorado Fourteener Initiative (CFI), it elected Borneman as chair in 1996. The groups also began plotting with the U.S. Forest Service (USFS), which manages the land surrounding 48 of the 53 peaks. Before the CFI starts its conservation work, the USFS sends out scientists to study rare plants, cultural artifacts, wildlife zones, and sections of trail above treeline that need rebuilding. Up to five years later they complete an environmental assessment, including foot by foot trail construction notes. CFI estimates that up to a half a million people hit the fourteeners each year. Of the more determined baggers tackling all 53 fourteeners, as of October 2015, CMC lists an extremely conservative 1,684 completions since 1923. Flying under the radar however, Walt Borneman represents those fourteener purists who deliberately never add their names to the CMC list. “It breaks my heart,” he says, “that there are so many people, despite educational efforts, who don’t care about this resource.” Along with protecting and restoring these peaks, CFI also focuses on education. Since a small number of climbers shortcutting or damaging plants can have a greater impact than the majority of climbers practicing low impact techniques, CFI has implemented public lectures, built trailhead kiosks, and created a YouTube educational channel. Since 2002, their CFI “Peak Stewards” have volunteered more than 1,200 days educating fourteener hikers. “CFI is all about volunteering,” says its director, Lloyd Athearn, an avid mountaineer. “In last summer’s four-month season, we had 1,550 volunteer days.” In his upper floor office in Golden, with a commanding view of Outlook Mountain, Athearn works with three full-time staff. For summer 2016, along with an expected army of volunteers, they’ve hired 23 more trail workers. To date, CFI has completed 30 trail restorations on the various peaks.
THE JOB AHEAD
There is still a lot of work to do. CFI’s 2016 missions are the over-loved Mt. Columbia (14,078 feet), Mt. Eolous (14,085 feet) and Mt. Quandry (14,265 feet). On Columbia, CFI will spend the next five summers rebuilding a stone stepped mile of trail up a more sustainable route off the tundra. If it’s anything like the work CFI completed on neighboring Mt. Yale, they will move more than 15,000 vegetation plugs (carefully plucked off the new trail) and transplant these fragile plants (that anchor the soil and allow new colonization by other alpine plants) onto the closed restoration zones of the old eroded trails. “We won’t ever work our way out of a job,” says Athearn, alluding to other more difficult fourteeners that need work. The number of peak baggers is ever increasing. By 2021, the summit flank of Columbia will more closely resemble China’s sacred Tai Shan, long ago protected with over 7,200 judiciously placed stone steps. Even on a crowded day, no pilgrim would dispute that the view is sublime from either summit. In Colorado, if CFI has its way, every fourteener bagger on a pilgrimage will learn the reverence of the ancient Han Dynasty Emperors from four millennia past. After all, the legendary Shun, Chief of the Four Sacred Peaks before he ascended to the throne, held close to his soul the literal meaning of the Chinese phrase for pilgrimage—ch’ ao-shan chin-hsiang— “paying one’s respect to a mountain.” Until then, CFI crews will keep building the steps. Jonathan Waterman is the author of 12 books, including The Colorado River: Flowing through Conflict and Running Dry: A Journey From Source to Sea Down the Colorado River.
CLIMB. COLORADO. NOW.
There’s never been a better time to take the challenge and summit the COLORADO 14ERS. Pick your peak . . . we’ve mapped all 53. Our durable, waterproof, and lightweight map guides are essential gear for your climb.
Mount Elbert, Mount Massive, Mount Harvard, Blanca Peak, La Plata Peak, Uncompahgre Peak, Crestone Peak, Mount Lincoln, Castle Peak, Grays Peak, Mount Antero, Torreys Peak, Quandary Peak, Mount Evans, Longs Peak, Mount Wilson, Mount Shavano, Mount Princeton, Mount Belford, Crestone Needle, Mount Yale, Mount Bross, Kit Carson Mountain, Maroon Peak, Tabequache Peak, Mount Oxford, Mount Sneffels, Mount Democrat, Capitol Peak, Pikes Peak, Snowmass Mountain, Windom Peak, Mount Eolus, Challenger Point, Mount Columbia, Missouri Mountain, Humboldt Peak, Mount Bierstadt, Sunlight Peak, Handies Peak, Culebra Peak, Ellingwood Point, Mount Lindsey, Little Bear Peak, Mount Sherman, Redcloud Peak, Pyramid Peak, Wilson Peak, San Luis Peak, Wetterhorn Peak, Mount of the Holy Cross, Huron Peak, Sunshine Peak, Mount Elbert, Mount Massive, Mount Harvard, Blanca Peak, La Plata Peak, Uncompahgre Peak, Crestone Peak, Mount Lincoln, Castle Peak, Grays Peak, Mount Antero, Torreys Peak, Quandary Peak, Mount Evans, Longs Peak, Mount Wilson, Mount Shavano, Mount Princeton, Mount Belford, Crestone Needle, Mount Yale, Mount Bross, Kit Carson Mountain, Maroon Peak, Tabequache Peak, Mount Oxford, Mount Sneffels, Mount Democrat, Capitol Peak, Pikes Peak, Snowmass Mountain, Windom Peak, Mount Eolus, Challenger Point, Mount Columbia, Missouri Mountain, Humboldt Peak, Mount Bierstadt, Sunlight Peak, Handies Peak, Culebra Peak, Ellingwood Point, Mount Lindsey, Little Bear Peak, Mount Sherman, Redcloud Peak, Pyramid Peak, Wilson Peak, San Luis Peak, Wetterhorn Peak, Mount of the Holy Cross, Huron Peak, Sunshine Peak, Mount Elbert, Mount Massive, Mount Harvard, Blanca Peak, La Plata Peak, Uncompahgre Peak, Crestone Peak, Mount Lincoln, Castle Peak, Grays Peak, Mount Antero, Torreys Peak, Quandary Peak, Mount Evans, Longs Peak, Mount Wilson, Mount Shavano, Mount Princeton, Mount Belford, Crestone Needle, Mount Yale, Mount Bross, Kit Carson Mountain, Maroon Peak, Tabequache Peak, Mount Oxford, Mount Sneffels, Mount Democrat, Capitol Peak, Pikes Peak, Snowmass Mountain, Windom Peak, Mount Eolus, Challenger Point, Mount Columbia, Missouri Mountain, Humboldt Peak, Mount Bierstadt, Sunlight Peak, Handies Peak, Culebra Peak, Ellingwood Point, Mount Lindsey, Little Bear Peak, Mount Sherman, Redcloud Peak, Pyramid Peak, Wilson Peak, San Luis Peak, Wetterhorn Peak, Mount of the Holy Cross, Huron Peak, Sunshine Peak, Mount Elbert, Mount Massive, Mount Harvard, Blanca Peak, La Plata Peak, Uncompahgre Peak, Crestone Peak, Mount Lincoln, Castle Peak, Grays Peak, Mount Antero, Tornatgeomaps natgeomaps reys Peak, Quandary Peak, Mount Evans, Longs Peak, Wilson, Copyright ©Mount 2016 National Geographic Partners, LLC Mount Shavano, Mount Princeton, Mount Belford, Crestone Needle,
www.natgeomaps.com
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HOT SPOT
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HIKE THE PARKS HELP RING IN A CENTENNIAL OF THE NATIONAL PARKS SERVICE BY HITTING THE TRAIL FOR THE BEST HIKES IN EACH OF COLORADO’S FOUR NATIONAL PARKS. by CHRIS KASSAR
O
n August 25, the National Park Service turns 100. We can’t think of a better way to celebrate one of our country’s best ideas and ring in a second century of stewardship than to get out and explore one—or all—of Colorado’s four national parks. Read on to find out about our favorite adventures; then start planning your own journey
northwest on the Tonahutu Trail, cross Ptarmigan Pass and descend through Bighorn Flats to reach a junction with the Haynach Lake Trail (another worthy optional side trip with excellent campsites). From here, enjoy a well-earned downhill tromp via the Tonahutu Trail, which passes Granite Falls, Lower Granite Falls and Big Meadows, before you finally reach the trailhead. nps.gov/romo
ANCIENT
MESA VERDE WETHERILL MESA Step back in time with a visit to southwestern Colorado’s Mesa Verde, where 5,000 known archeological
ancestral cliff dwelling, the Long House, which includes climbing two 15-foot ladders. nps.gov/meve
EMPTY
GREAT SAND DUNES STAR DUNE Most Americans think big peaks, raging rivers and high alpine lakes, rather than a giant expanse of sand dunes, when they picture the the Centennial State. However, Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is home to the tallest dunes in North America. Exploring this
DEEP
BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON NORTH VISTA TRAIL Wind, water and time have carved the narrow canyon at the center of this remote and rugged park characterized by its sheer cliffs, craggy spires and ancient rock. Dark rock walls drop over 2,000 vertical feet to reach the Gunnison River, but there are no established trails that will bring you to the canyon bottom, only steep and slippery rock gullies that intrepid anglers—drawn to the gold-medal
STAY ON TOP: AND PEER INTO THE GUNNISON VIA A RAMBLE ON THE NORTH VISTA TRAIL.
HIGH ROCKY MOUNTAIN THE BIG LOOP Over three million visitors a year flock to this high-altitude gem, making it sometimes hard to find solitude. We’ve got just the antidote: a 25-mile backpacking loop that starts on the less visited and wetter west side, tops out on the Continental Divide and gives a taste of all that Rocky Mountain has to offer, including opulent wildflower displays, opportunities to see wildlife such as moose and elk, and breathtaking views. Allow three days to savor this adventure, which begins at the Tonahutu/North Inlet trailhead near Grand Lake. Walk through lush forest alongside rushing water as you ascend through the quieter side of the park via the North Inlet Trail. Stop at Cascade and War Dance falls before reaching the Lake Nanita Trail junction. If time and energy allows, the 6-mile roundtrip to Nokoni and Nanita lakes is worth the effort. Enjoy big vistas as you continue climbing via the North Inlet Trail, which follows Hallett Creek to reach the blossom-adorned tundra of the Continental Divide and tops out on Flattop Mountain (12,324 feet). Turn photo courtesy NPS/Lisa Lynch
sites, including 600 cliff dwellings, offer a glimpse into the lives of the Ancestral Pueblo people who lived here for over 700 years. Most visitors focus on the famed Cliff Palace (which is indeed impressive), so a visit to Wetherill offers a more tranquil Mesa Verde experience. Plus, because park officials created this oft-overlooked spot with walking and bicycling in mind, you are free to discover most of the sites on your own via self-guided trails. Follow a winding, one-mile path to tour the pithouse, petroglyphs and cliff dwelling of the Step House. Then take the 2.25-mile Badger House Trail to discover four mesa top sites. Take advantage of the knowledgeable staff, too, and don’t miss the ranger-guided tour of the park’s second largest
magical place on foot affords the experience of a lifetime: You’ll hoof it over an ever-changing alien landscape where sand, forest and the snowcapped Sangre de Cristo Mountains collide. The dunes proper have no trails, so you can truly explore by following Mendano Creek or the undulating ridges of shifting sand. Or travel a little further afield than most by tromping past High Dune, part of the most prominent first ridge, to climb Star Dune, which rises 755 feet from its base to crest. To reach it typically requires a five-hour round trip adventure. Take advantage of the park’s unmatched stargazing by spending the night. You can camp anywhere along the dunes (free permits are available at the Visitor Center). nps.gov/grsa
trout waters of the Gunnison— occasionally use for scrambling. The trip back up is painful, however, so we suggest you explore the canyon from above on our favorite hike here, the seven-mile-round-trip North Vista Trail, which starts at the ranger station on the lesser-visited north rim and follows the canyon’s edge through sagebrush and pinyon-juniper forest. Views of SOB draw and the inner canyon spread out before you as you head toward the aptly named Exclamation Point. Continue to Green Mountain (867 feet higher) for panoramic views of the San Juans, West Elks, Grand Mesa and an even cooler perspective of Black Canyon that includes both the rim and the inner canyon. nps.gov/blca
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POWERED BY
THE TRAIL
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DOWNLOAD APP viewranger.com/gpsadventure
ROUTE CODE: ELEV0050 Scan for this route’s GPS Hike!
5.
VERITAS, INDEED: EDUCATE YOUR SENSES. CLIMB MOUNT HARVARD.
Scan for all of Elevation Outdoors’ published routes!
photo by CHRIS KASSAR
MOUNT HARVARD DOWNLOAD THE FREE VIEWRANGER APP AND THE FOLLOWING COORDINATES TO GAIN THE SUMMIT OF ONE OF COLORADO’S MOST ENJOYABLE FOURTEENERS VIA THE ALTERNATE EAST RIDGE ROUTE. by CHRIS KASSAR Higher than Mount Rainier, 14,420-foot Mount Harvard, along with its neighbor 14,078-foot Mount Columbia, form a giant massif hidden deep within the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. Mount Harvard ranks third highest in Colorado and fourth in the Lower 48. The summit offers incredible views and the hike up snakes through meadows bursting with wildflowers. We chose to climb Harvard via the oft-overlooked East Ridge route, which makes this simple-yet-challenging ascent even better since you get to explore Frenchman Creek and the lush tundra-filled basin between Harvard and Columbia without having to battle crowds. FRENCHMAN CREEK TRAILHEAD
From Buena Vista, go north for 7.5 miles and turn west on CR 386. Continue for 0.3 miles until you reach FS 386. Turn west onto FS 386 and follow it for 1.4 miles. Park here if you have a two-wheel-drive, low-clearance vehicle. Otherwise, take a left at the fork and head south on a very rugged, rocky four-wheel-drive road for 2.2 miles to reach the upper trailhead and the Collegiate Peaks Boundary at 10,800 feet. Park here. Head south and west on Frenchman Creek Trail, following the creek as it carves a path through lush forest. COLORADO TRAIL JUNCTION
Continue climbing west through the forest to reach a junction with the Colorado Trail, which 16
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bisects the trail in both directions. Continue straight through the intersection to stay on the Frenchman Creek Trail.
Climbing this dynamic duo of peaks from the other side also makes an excellent overnight based out of the Horn Fork Basin.
JUNCTION WITH SOUTH PINE CREEK TRAIL
The trail climbs steadily as it perseveres west along the creek. Shortly before reaching a junction with the South Pine Creek trail, you'll break free from tree line and enter a beautiful alpine basin. South Pine Creek Trail comes in from the north (right), but continue straight toward Harvard’s east ridge. From here, the trail becomes fainter and fainter. Be sure to keep north then west to reach a 12,980-foot saddle on the east ridge. 4.
COLUMBIA TRAIL INTERSECTION
Explore the high country via this ridge, which in mid-summer teems with an array of wildflowers and scurrying marmots. Continue straight and climb west along the rocky ridge to reach the summit of Mount Harvard. 5.
SUMMIT
Rejoice! You’ve made it. From your perch at 14,420 feet, breathe in spectacular views of Mount Columbia and the Frenchman Creek drainage from above. When you’ve had enough, retrace your steps back to the trailhead. NOTE: You can make numerous longer loops and backpacking possibilities here via connections with the Colorado Trail and South Pine Creek Trail. Those with summit fever can climb Mount Columbia from upper Frenchman Creek basin, but don’t underestimate what it will take to do both peaks on the same day, especially from this trailhead. The ridge between the two summits is 2.2 miles and has significant amounts of ups and downs—it’s rough, but doable. Or you can save Columbia for another day and try both from the more popular North Cottonwood Trailhead.
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lightly cushioned hiking socks with strategically placed mesh ventilation zones that manage temperature and moisture make for happy feet. Extra elastics mean they stay in place without annoying bunch-ups for all-day comfort and performance and Reliawool technology adds just the right amount of padding in high impact areas so these socks can take on big days. They are available in men’s- and women’s-specific fit. $20; smartwool.com OSPREY TALON 18 | This no-nonsense, toploading pack weighs only 1.5 pounds yet it offers everything you need, including a comfortable carrying system, mesh back panel to keep you cool and compression straps for increased stability when you’re cruising over rough terrain. A zippered toplid pocket and zippered hip-belt pockets keep critical items organized and easy to grab. $90; ospreypacks.com —C.K.
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NUMEROLOGY
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climb on The straight up stats on Colorado climbing, climbers and public lands.
photos by TOM FROST
by CAMERON MARTINDELL
53
Number of peaks over 14,000 feet in Colorado with at least 300 feet of elevation from the nearest saddle (this leaves out five peaks above 14,000 feet).
$13.2
BILLION The economic impact from outdoor recreation in Colorado, generated each year.
95
Percentage of Coloradans who have recreated on public lands in the past year.
10 Number of U.S. special forces soldiers evacuated by helicopter from the summit of 14,249-foot Longs Peak in June when two of them suffered altitude sickness during a training mission on the peak.
26 Number of events hosted by the American Alpine Club in Colorado last year with an estimated total attendance of 11,000.
1874 The year of the first known ascent of 14,440-foot Mount Elbert by
H.W. Struckle of the Hayden Survey. It’s the highest peak in Colorado, highest in the Rocky Mountains and second highest in the lower 48.
400 Distance in feet from the 7,200-meter summit of the North Ridge of
Latok 1, reached by the team of Jeff Lowe, George Lowe, Michael Kennedy and Jim Donini in 1978—it’s still the highest point ever reached on the climb. This year, German climber Thomas Huber and a team will attempt the unclimbed route, with George Lowe and Donini supporting them.
182 Number of 5.13 ascents (and counting) ticked off so far by pioneering Colorado climber, gear sales rep and power mom Bobbi Bensman.
1 Total number of sleeping bags, ice tools and ice screws carried by Tommy
Caldwell and Alex Honnold on their historic completion of Patagonia’s Fitz Roy Traverse in 2014.
100 Number of feet Colorado climber Craig Demartino fell to the ground
at Lumpy Ridge in Rocky Mountain National Park in 2002. He would end up spending a year in a wheelchair and losing a leg. It didn’t break him. In 2005, he became the first amputee to climb Yosemite’s El Cap in a day, and in 2012 he led the first all-disabled team up the iconic wall.
5.15a The rating of The Fortress of Solitude’s Flex Luthor, arguably the
hardest sport climb in Colorado and one of the most difficult in the world. So far, only Tommy Caldwell has climbed it.
MAKING A NAME: THE INCOMPARABLE JEFF LOWE ON THE FIRST SOLO ASCENT OF THE LOWE ROUTE (VI AI4 M5 1200M) ON THE SOUTH FACE OF 22,349-FOOT AMA DABLAM IN 1979.
1 Number of states in the U.S. with a Public Lands Day. Colorado created this event which will begin in 2017, thanks to the efforts of The American Alpine Club, Conservation Colorado and Outdoor Alliance Colorado.
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WHEN YOU DON’T HAVE TIME FOR SECOND BEST
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PHOTO CREDIT: ADVENTURE DRIVEN, SETH JACOBSEN
STRAIGHT TALK
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GEORGE BASCH THE FOUNDER OF HIMALAYAN STOVE PROJECT HOPES TO CHANGE THE FUTURE OF NEPAL, AND THE PLANET, WITH CAMP STOVES. by JEFF BLUMENFELD
A
t his home within sight of the famous steeps of New Mexico’s Taos Ski Valley, George Basch’s mind is thousands of miles away—in the Himalayas to be exact, where he’s dedicated his retirement years to solving an insidious human health issue: Household Air Pollution (HAP). It is the cause of an estimated 4.3 million deaths a year worldwide, more than malaria, HIV/AIDS and tuberculosis combined. Basch, 79, is founder of the non-profit Himalayan Stove Project, an effort to remove open campfires in thousands of homes in Nepal and replace them with cleanburning, fuel-efficient stoves that reduce indoor air pollution by 90 percent, and fuel use by 75 percent. Himalayan Stove Project has put over 3,000 Envirofit cook stoves in place so far. Basch took the time to talk to us about how the project works and the difference it’s making.
AT A TIME WHEN MANY YOUR AGE ARE ENJOYING RETIREMENT, YOU SEEM TO BE WORKING 24/7. WHAT STARTED YOU ON THIS MISSION TO CLEAR THE AIR IN NEPAL?
My son, Paul, with whom I had hiked, trekked and climbed, committed suicide in 1998 at the age of 28. I wanted to memorialize him in a way that would have been meaningful to him. In 2001, I spent a month at Everest Base Camp, as support for blind climber Erik Weihenmayer’s successful summit. On my first visit to Nepal, I was enthralled by the people, but appalled by the lungsearing indoor smoke in their homes. I returned in 2009, and a solution to the problem presented itself—our first big shipment of stoves arrived in Kathmandu in early 2011. HOW SERIOUS A PROBLEM IS THIS?
It’s the world’s leading source of environmental death. Almost photos courtesy HimalayanStoveProject.org
TRANSFORMING LIVES: BASCH (INSET) AND HIS ALL-VOLUNTEER HIMALAYAN STOVE PROJECT HAVE DELIVERED 3,000 STOVES SO FAR TO NEPAL, WITH ANOTHER 577 ABOUT TO BE UNLOADED IN CALCUTTA AND TRUCKED TO KATHMANDU.
half the world is still cooking on the floor in open pits as if it’s the stone age. In September 2015, ski mountaineer and North Face team athlete Kit DesLauriers was on an expedition to climb Nepal’s Mount Makalu, the fifth highest mountain in the world, when she became ill with high altitude cerebral edema (HACE). As she recovered, a local Nepali family shared their meals with her despite having little food for themselves. DesLauriers was shocked by the amount of indoor smoke due to cooking over an open fire on the dirt floor, a method little changed for centuries. Today, she and The North Face have become strong supporters of our efforts. WE HEAR A LOT ABOUT THE DIFFICULTIES OF DELIVERING HUMANITARIAN AID TO NEPAL. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR EXPERIENCE?
After the April 2015 earthquake, we brought in 20 larger stoves for mass feeding of the victims. Our team in Nepal skillfully worked their way through totally unnecessary red tape and the stoves made an enormous difference in the communities where they were put to use. Our latest shipment of 577 stoves has been held
up for months. Luckily, we have a man on the ground in Nepal who understands the ins and outs of Nepali bureaucracy. It’s very aggravating, but we’re making progress. WHAT IS IT ABOUT THE ENVIROFIT COOK STOVE THAT MAKES IT SO WELL SUITED FOR THE PROJECT?
Envirofit is a Fort Collins, Coloradobased non-profit with incredible engineering and manufacturing talent. They’ve shipped more than one million clean cook stoves worldwide, designed for the greatest efficiency and built to the highest quality standards. We’re honored to be one small part of their global network. NEPAL IS A DREAM DESTINATION FOR SO MANY CLIMBERS OR ADVENTURERS. HOW HAS THE CLIMBING COMMUNITY RESPONDED TO YOUR EFFORT?
The Himalaya have occupied a special place in the hearts and minds of climbers and adventurers since the 1920s. We’ve received support from climbing greats including Conrad Anker, Sir Chris Bonington, Jimmy Chin, Dave Hahn, Tom Hornbein, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Brent Bishop and many, many others. Outdoor gear companies have also recognized the value of supporting us,
with donations from adidas Outdoor, Eddie Bauer, Kahtoola, MSR, The North Face and others, including personally from Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard. They are all behind us in a big way. NEPAL IS A THIRD WORLD COUNTRY OF 28 MILLION. CAN YOU REALISTICALLY MAKE A DIFFERENCE WITH A FEW THOUSAND COOK STOVES?
Every stove that we deliver (at the very modest cost of $150) transforms the life of a family. Our all-volunteer organization and our Nepal team has the capacity to deliver over 5,000 stoves per year without having to create a large, ponderous organization. One of our advisory board members, Tom Hornbein, says what we’re doing “is just like climbing a mountain—you take one step at a time.” WHAT KEEPS YOU GOING?
One of my core values is to be a responsible global citizen, doing what I can to make the world a better place. Every stove we deliver transforms the life of a family, and memorializes my son. That's immensely gratifying. For more information, head to himalayanstoveproject.org.
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TOPPING OUT
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FOURTEENER
MADNES SO YOU WANT TO STAND ATOP SOME OF COLORADO’S MOST ICONIC PEAKS THIS SUMMER? BORED WITH THE USUAL OPTIONS? HERE’S A HIT LIST TO GET YOU (AND MAYBE EVEN YOUR DOG) UP THOSE BIG HILLS.
by James Dziezynski
photo by WILL ROCHFORT / CAVEMAN COLLECTIVE
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SS
C
limbing Colorado’s 14,000foot peaks has become one of the defining adventures in the Rocky Mountains. Part of the fun is the sheer variety found on the 53 peaks that make up the generally accepted roster of summits. Using the most popular standard routes, the difficulty ranges from modest walk-ups to exposed, class 4 scrambles, but never quite tips into class 5 territory— though it’s completely fine to use ropes on some of the more difficult summits. Our fourteeners package takes a look at new ways to scale these classic peaks, the best fourteeners for your canine companions, and finally, our top five toughest summits. See you at the top.
FIVE BEST FOURTEENER ALTERNATE ROUTES WEST RIDGE QUANDARY PEAK (14,265 FEET)
Quandary Peak is one of the most heavily trafficked fourteeners, thanks to a relatively easy walk-up along the broad ramp that makes up the east ridge. A less crowded and more thrilling line is along the west ridge, a class 3 scramble that features more exposure, challenging navigation and a few thrilling down climbs. The trail starts at the Blue Lakes Trailhead and also puts you in striking distance of a class 2 walkup on neighboring 13,951-foot Fletcher Mountain. Descend the loose but direct Cristo Couloir and you’ll see your vehicle from the summit!
CYCLONE CREEK TO TABEGUACHE PEAK (14,155 FEET)
This route starts just west of the old Jennings Creek standard route up Tabeguache (now closed for revegetation). There are no established trails, but the path is straightforward: Follow Cyclone Creek above treeline and hike up to 13,663-foot Carbonate Mountain, then traverse over to Tabeguache. Return down to the ridges to the west above Jennings Creek or continue to fourteener Mount Shavano and down the new standard route for a point-to-point.
KELSO RIDGE TORREYS PEAK (14,267 FEET)
This class 3 scramble has become a favorite line for those looking to avoid the typical weekend summer crowds on Grays and Torreys. The rock is solid, the scrambling is a lot of fun, and the crux of the route is a shortbut-thrilling knife edge along a block of white quartz rock. Top out and enjoy a walk down along the Grays Peak Trail or traverse over to Grays Peak itself before descending. Or, if you really want to make a big day of it, go point-to-point over Torreys, over 13,427-foot Grizzly Peak and down to Loveland Pass.
NORTHWEST RIDGE MOUNT LINDSEY (14,042 FEET) Over the years, the standard route on Mount Lindsey has eroded to the point where it would qualify as a class 2+ route with a few class 3 moves at the top of a loose gully. The northwest ridge avoids the scree and sticks to solid boulders and rock outcrops. It’s a little exposed at times, but there’s always solid hand and foot holds. Descent is by the standard north face route, which nearly overlaps the northwest ridge.
MOUNTAIN BIKE MOUNT ANTERO (14,269 FEET)
Now here’s something different. Despite its tremendous bulk, Mount Antero is a rather tame walk up, usually done along a 4x4 road that climbs to 13,800 feet (yes, it is driveable by 4x4 enthusiasts). If you want to try a good challenge, bring your mountain bike. While it’s possible start pedaling at the very bottom of the 4x4 road up Antero’s west slopes, it’s a more enjoyable ride if you park at Baldwin Gulch (just before a river crossing) and ride from there. It’s tough, but most of the road is bikeable by fit cyclists. A brief, sandy section before the top of the road is tough to ascend but not bad coming down. Leave your bike at the top of the road and hoof it 500 vertical feet to the summit—or if you’re like me, carry your bike to the top. The ride down is a speedy one!
LIVING ON THE EDGE: LOOKING TO UP YOUR PUCKER FACTOR? TRAVERSING THE NORTHEAST RIDGE ON CAPITOL PEAK IS SURE TO MAKE YOU FEEL EXPOSED TO THE ABYSS.
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FIVE BEST FOURTEENERS FOR DOGS HANDIES PEAK (14,048 FEET)
Handies offers a great adventure for your dog (and for you, too, human), with plenty of water along the way and great, panoramic views at every stop. The class 2 trail to the top isn’t exposed and the trail sees light foot traffic. As with any fourteener, wildlife encounters are a concern for dog owners, but beyond that, this is a great walk up that dogs will love.
SAN LUIS PEAK (14,014 FEET)
San Luis may be the very best dogfriendly fourteener out there. It’s a bit remote so there are rarely any crowds. The well-maintained trail to the summit passes through lush meadows of wildflowers and creeks trickle along for the bulk of the route. There are no major cliffs or technical obstacles (some even rate it as class 1, so it’s relatively easy) and the wideopen views help you keep an eye out for wandering mountain goats.
MOUNT DEMOCRAT (14,148 FEET)
For the experienced mountain dog, Mount Democrat’s east slope offers a fun scramble, though it may be tough on the pads for less-traveled pooches. It’s a rather abrupt trail, but the shoulder of Democrat is broad, without a lot of perilous perches. The views are great and there are often patches of non-corniced snow for your dogs to roll around in. It’s only four miles out-and-back but it’s a fine workout for man and beast alike.
sure to bring plenty of water for you and your pup—there’s not much to be found above the trailhead.
REDCLOUD PEAK (14,034 FEET)
Redcloud is one of the most scenic fourteeners, thanks to its oxidized iron rock skin. It’s also a fine dog peak, thanks to an excellent class 2 trail—and it can easily be combined over a weekend with Handies Peak, since they share the same trailhead. Redcloud as an out-and-back is a ideal dog-and-human adventure, with wide-open basins and no cliffed out terrain. The walk over to nearby Sunshine Peak (14,001 feet) adds mileage but is fairly manageable as an out-and-back (the shortcut off Sunshine has been discouraged in recent years and isn’t great for dogs due to sharp rock scree).
FIVE TOUGHEST FOURTEENERS CAPITOL PEAK (14,130 FEET)
Capitol Peak requires nerve, endurance, route-finding, good weather, and solid scrambling skills—and that’s what makes it so great. The approach to the northeast ridge (the only non-technical line) is burlier than most fourteeners are as a whole. And, once on the ridge, there’s a dicey skirting of a sub-peak called K2 before you hit the crux of the climb, a 150-foot-long, wildy exposed fine of solid rock known as the knife edge. Past the knife edge, class 3 and 4 scrambling heads up to the impressive summit. And on FOR MORE INFO ON THE FOURTEENERS, VISIT THE EXCELLENT INFORMATIONAL WEBSITE AT FOURTEENERS.COM.
MOUNT ELBERT (14,433 FEET)
Colorado’s highest mountain has an excellent, well-maintained trail to its summit from the north (called either the Mount Elbert Trail or the North Mount Elbert Trail). If you have a friendly dog who is good with people and other pups, it’s quite an honor to ascend the tallest Rocky Mountain with your dog. It’s a long day with over 4,400 feet of elevation gain, so make sure you have some trial time in before attempting this one. And make 24
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GULLY GREMLINS: CLIMBERS NAVIGATE THE GUTS OF CRESTONE NEEDLE, ONE OF THE MOST DIFFICULT FOURTEENERS. photo by JAMES DZIEZYNSKI
gsi_2016_Minimalist_UtahAdvJournal_5.2016_r.1.pdf 1 3/30/2016 1:12:50 PM
photographer / braden gunem
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TOPPING OUT
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the return, you get to hit all the crux spots again! It's 17 miles roundtrip, so this one is usually done with a night of camping at Capitol Lake.
LITTLE BEAR PEAK (14,037 FEET)
Little Bear shares an approach with two other fourteeners, Blanca Peak and Ellingwood Point, but it claims a much more difficult standard route. It’s mostly class 2 and 3 hiking with the exception of a narrow, 150-foot chimney called the Hourglass. Here's the rub. This gully is easiest when there’s snow in it, but most hikers tackle it in the summer months, when rock fall funnels down the class 4 chute. Handholds are copious but the rock can be deviously wet. A suspect rope used to assist climbers here is replaced on a regular basis, but don't count on it for safety. Above the Hourglass, the scrambling is easier but still challenging. Downclimbing the dicey Hourglass, however, may be the true crux of this route.
NORTH MAROON PEAK (14,014 FEET)
By Colorado Mountain Club standards, North Maroon Peak isn’t technically a fourteener—it doesn’t rise high enough from its neighbor, 14,156-foot Maroon Peak. Nonetheless, it’s on most fourteeners hit lists and it's part of the standard 53. Route finding is especially challenging and there are multiple sections that require exposed scrambling. Most hikers end up scrambling up tough class 4 or easy class 5 sections (a short rope isn’t a bad idea). The descent navigation can be tricky on the upper mountain and helicopter rescues happen from time to time on North Maroon.
PYRAMID PEAK (14,018 FEET)
Unlike its neighbors the Maroon Bells, the rock on Pyramid is mostly solid. With good route finding, the scrambling won’t exceed tough class 3 or easy class 4 (for only a move or two) but of course, that route finding is part of the challenge. There’s a stiff, steep approach to the saddle that hits the northeast ridge, which is usually done in the blackness of
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CANINES ON HIGH: THE GENTLE SLOPES OF SAN LUIS PEAK MAKE FOR THE IDEAL DOG-AND-HUMAN ADVENTURE. photo by JAMES DZIEZYNSKI
night. Those who can see good, solid climbing lines will enjoy Pyramid’s terrain, which might explain why it’s so popular with mountain goats.
LONGS PEAK
(14,255 FEET)
So many people attempt Longs Peak that it’s easy to forget that the Keyhole Route is a major undertaking. It’s a long day, around
15 miles, and the two miles beyond the Keyhole require exposed traverses on dicey ledges, a grind up a loose couloir to 14,000 feet and a final push on steep, solid (but airy) rock. And of course … the return has you face-toface with the precipitous drops and pucker-worthy cliffs. Add to that the busy throngs on the mountain, some of which can cause bottlenecks in key passages, all while the weather builds.
HONORABLE MENTIONS Both Mount Wilson (14,246 feet) and Sunlight Peak (14,059 feet) are punctuated by a single, gutsy move, that, in both cases, is near the summit. Crestone Needle (14,197 feet) offers up very solid conglomerate rock, but the navigation is difficult (on par with North Maroon), so it’s easy to get off-route. — EO Contributing Editor James Dziezynski is the author of several Colorado guide books, including Best Summit Hikes in Colorado and his newest release Best Summit Hikes: Denver to Vail (see page 8). Dziezynski completed all of Colorado's 14ers in 2003, and he has been back to visit them many times since.
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TOPPING OUT
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FOURTEENER BASICS NEVER BEEN UP HIGH BUT ITCHING TO GIVE IT A TRY? HERE ARE A FEW WORDS OF ADVICE AND A FEW GOOD BUMPS TO TRY. GEAR UP: Conditions can change in
a hurry up high, even if you are on an “easy” peak. A pack in the 30-liter range should fit all your gear without overdoing it. (Smaller packs are an option if you have your gear dialed in from previous trips.) Be sure to bring a rain shell and layers, no matter how hot it is at town or the trailhead. It's also always a good idea to bring a warm hat. Light, collapsable trekking poles may look dorky, but you will thank yourself for bringing them on the way down (plus they help keep your arms moving and prevent swelling hands). Carry high-calorie snacks and plenty of water. And bring food and water for you dog, if you are bringing a canine companion.
WATCH THE WEATHER: Do not underestimate how fast the weather can change in the alpine. Start early (3 or 4 a.m. for peaks with long approaches) and be off of the summit by 1 p.m. Be sure to account for how long it will take you to get down from your present location when the weather starts to do downhill. THE EASY FOURTEENERS: Ok,
no Fourteener should be labeled as “easy,” but there are a few that will set you up for success your first few trips out. We will leave Mount Evans and Pikes Peak, both of which have paved roads to the summit, off the list. The top of the list is Mount Bierstadt (14,060 feet), which is a seven mile-round trip with a modest 2,580 feet of elevation gain. Plus, it’s a short drive from downtown Denver. Close by Breckenridge Quandary Peak (14,265 feet) is basically a long walk-up (even if you have to slog over 3,500 vertical feet to the summit over seven miles). It’s also the best peak to consider if you want to ski down from the summit of a Fourteener (in the right conditions and with the proper gear and training). Another relatively
easy option, that offers the chance to tick off two Fourteeners in one shot, can be found in Grays (14,270 feet) and Torreys (14,267 feet) peaks. The twin summits are located just off I-70 on the Denver side of the Eisenhower Tunnel and require an eight-mile round trip from the trailhead with just 3,000 feet of elevation gain, plus a 575-foot scramble down from the top of Grays and then back up Torreys to link them. If you want to make a Fourteener even easier, we provide you with the GPS coordinates and a free View Ranger app to get you to the summit of 14,420-foot Mount Harvard (see page 16). photo by LIAM DORAN
TIME FOR A
American public lands are under attack in Utah. The state’s leaders are trying to take over outdoor spaces that belong to all Americans. To pay for managing those lands, Utah would have to close trail access and sell our public lands to private developers. Utah’s leaders need to make a U-Turn. Spend your recreation dollars in a state that respects our public lands. LEARN MORE:
UTurnUtah.com | #UTurnUtah Center for Western Priorities
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READER POLL
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higher
education WE ASKED OUR READERS TO VOTE FOR THE BEST OUTDOOR SCHOOLS IN THE WEST. HERE ARE THE WINNERS. GET READY TO ENROLL. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN
W
hat makes a great outdoor school? We asked our readers to vote for colleges and universities across the Rocky Mountain West (Colorado, Wyoming, New Mexico, Montana, Utah and Idaho) that best teach an ethos that leads to more than just a career in the outdoor, conservation and related industries, but, more so, a better appreciation of our place and responsibility on the planet. The competition was fierce. But in the end, we came up with four worthy finalists. We spoke to staff and students to find out what puts these best outdoor schools on top.
WINNER
ADAMS STATE UNIVERSITY adamsstate.edu LOCATION: Alamosa, Colorado ENROLLMENT: 3,467 undergrads Outdoor Focus: “The Adventure Programs at Adams State (ASAP) is a co-curricular leadership development program that works together with the Adventure Leadership and Programming minor and the Adventure Sports program,” explains program director Brian Puccerella. “ASAP has its roots in what was called the ‘Outing Club,’ which was 30
created in 1925 by Luther Bean, one of Adams State’s presidents who strongly believed in the value of outdoor recreation. He would take students on horseback from the college all the way to Mount Blanca, leading them to its summit.” “Students enrolled in the ALP minor are trained in backpacking, rock climbing, mountain biking, ice climbing, mountaineering, wilderness medicine, group facilitation and outdoor leadership. It’s not uncommon for a student to spend over 50 days in the field the first year. After completing the ALP Expedition course, students are eligible to start working for the Adventure Programs as an ALP Apprentice. Working your way up to a trip leader within ASAP is just one requirement among many that can eventually earn you a Leadership Certificate from Adams State University.” “Adventure Sports at Adams State University is one of the most unique collegiate sport programs in the nation and it houses the university’s cycling and rock climbing teams,” says Puccerella. “Adventure Sports provides competition travel, food, lodging, entry fees and coaching staff for all cycling and rock climbing team members and offers scholarships to athletes in both sports. The Adams
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State University Rock Climbing team is the only collegiate climbing team in the nation to pay for all competition expenses, offer scholarships and staff a head climbing coach.” “While outdoor skills are learned and practiced in ASAP, the true emphasis is to develop the essential skills that lead to responsible and effective human beings,” he adds. “We believe that the self-awareness, personal responsibility, and judgment fostered through the program produces a person ready to be a leader in any profession, and in their personal life.” Key Staff: Brian Puccerella oversees and manages The Adventure Programs at Adams State. He has guided across the southern United States and Alaska, and helped run the Outdoor Recreation program at the University of Alabama before coming to Adams State. Puccerella teaches mountain biking, challenge course facilitation, and rock climbing. Rather than employing full-time faculty, the courses within the Adventure Leadership and Programming minor are instructed by a pool of talented educators each with their particular expertise and strengths. Most courses are taught by two or more instructors to provide a richer learning
photo by ANNA LASUSA
STUDY GROUP: THE CYCLING TEAM, PART OF THE ADVENTURE SPORTS PROGRAM AT ADAMS STATE, GETS ACADEMIC.
experience. Curt Howell, who directs the minor, brings ten years of collegiate outdoor program leadership experience to ASAP and specializes in program design, organizational culture, and learning development. Mat Erpelding, who teaches the introductory immersion experience, the ALP Expedition, is the owner of Idaho Mountain Guides and is currently serving the state of Idaho as a state representative. Mat has worked in and for collegiate outdoor programs for 20 years, guided for the American Alpine Institute, and is a former president of the Association of Outdoor Recreation and Education. Mark Johnson, a graduate of Adams State (’89), went on to work with Outward Bound before spending about 10 years guiding and training guides for the American Alpine Institute in the Cascades, Bolivia and Ecuador. Sandy Kobrock, owner of Wolf Creek Backcountry and a former Outward Bound instructor and ski patroller, provides the program's avalanche courses through the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE).
RUNNER UP UNIVERSITY OF UTAH utah.edu LOCATION: Salt Lake City, Utah ENROLLMENT: 23,909 undergrads
Outdoor Focus: The University of Utah attracts outdoor-minded students with a host of programs including the Outdoor Adventures Program, U-EXPLORE, Parks, Recreation & Tourism (PRT) and the Sustainability Office. “Programs like Outdoor Adventures, which leads trips, definitely help prepare grads in these fields, but just the vicinity to so many outdoor recreation companies in the area also helps students get a leg up on careers,” says social media manager Andrew Thompson. “For instance, Backcountry.com, Black Diamond, Kuhl and Discrete are all based in Utah. Not to mention there are other outdoor product companies with a presence in the state. And of course, we’re home to 14 mountain resorts, all of which offer opportunities to graduates who want to pursue outdoor recreation careers. Salt Lake is also home to the big Outdoor Retailer trade show, twice a year.” Important Alumni: Famous outdoor alumni from the U of U include mountaineer and conservationist Conrad Anker, freeskier Tom Wallisch, freeskier Grete Eliassen, and freeskier and owner of Discrete apparel Julian Carr.
FINALIST
PRESCOTT COLLEGE prescott.edu LOCATION: Prescott, Arizona ENROLLMENT: 464 undergrads Outdoor Focus: “For over 45 years, undergraduate students at Prescott College have built transformative connections to the college, their environment and each other through Wilderness Orientation, which is a three-week backpacking expedition in the remote desert mountains and canyons of Arizona,” says Ashley Mains, director for advancement communications and major gifts. “Students develop a sense of place and make connections to the Southwest through rigorous backcountry travel and map and wilderness navigation, and by studying the natural and cultural history of their route. We believe in
2016 ROAD TOUR
FIND US THIS MONTH AT:
ARISE MUSIC FESTIVAL AUGUST 5–7 LOVELAND, COLORADO
BREW SKIES FESTIVAL
AUGUST 19–20 CANAAN VALLEY, WEST VIRGINIA
photo courtesy UNIVERSITY OF UTAH
UPPER CLASS: A UTAH STUDENT SCALES THE CLIMBING WALL AT THE STUDENT LIFE CENTER, WHICH IS ALSO HOME TO THE SCHOOL'S OUTDOOR ADVENTURES PROGRAM.
the value of engaging directly with the outdoors. This means that many of our courses spend anywhere from several weeks to months in remote backcountry settings.” “We have a renowned Adventure Education program as well as an Environmental Studies program that involves extensive field time,” says Mains. “Students have opportunities to study in the outdoors with courses such as Environmental Perspectives and Whitewater Rafting, Backcountry Skiing and Winter Ecology, and the Grand Canyon Semester—a semesterlong, interdisciplinary program that uses the Greater Grand Canyon Ecoregion as a training grounds and laboratory. A central piece of the Grand Canyon Semester is a sciencebased resource stewardship project focused on the river corridor.” Important Alumni: U.S. Senator Tom Udall. Angela Hawse, the first woman to join the American Mountain Guides Association Instructor Team and the only woman who teaches and examines in all three disciplines—rock, alpine and ski. Sue Knaup, international bicycle and social change advocate. Brad Dimmock, Grand Canyon historian.
FINALIST
FOLLOW THE ADVENTURE @LIVEOUTSIDEANDPLAY LIVEOUTSIDEANDPLAY.COM PRESENTED BY
UNIVERSITY OF IDAHO idaho.edu LOCATION: Moscow, Idaho ENROLLMENT: 9,330 undergrads
Outdoor Focus: “We consider the whole state of Idaho to be our campus," says Jodi Walker, director of communicaions. “UI offers an active Outdoor Program—a nonprofit service organization dedicated to providing the university community with education and resources for wilderness-based, human-powered, environmentally sound activities. The Outdoor Program offers equipment rentals, trip-planning assistance, and a full slate of programming.” Key Staff: Janet Rachlow, Department of Fish and Wildlife Sciences, studies habitat quality and fire. Travis Paveglio, Department of Natural Resources and Society, studies the impact of wildfire. Crystal Kolden, Department of Geography, leads a $2.8 million National Science Foundation grant to study where wildfires are most likely to strike and how communities can recover from fires. A U G U S T 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M
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utah TRAVEL GUIDE
U
tah is a unique original. Truly,
state in the nation with as many
advantage of all that energy? Simple.
there is no other place on
national parks and land dedicated
Start your adventure in Salt Lake City,
the planet like it. You won’t find the
to recreation. And you won’t find
where you can base for action further
endlesses expanses of red rock
the same thirst for adventure.
afield or grab a Connect Pass to
desert and canyons cut into the
Utah is synonymous with outdoor
explore the city and mountains next
uplift of the Colorado Plateau that
play—mountain biking in Moab,
to town. Head up to Park City, where
make the place such an adventure
canyoneering in Escalante, hiking
you’ll find one of the best trail systems
playground anywhere else on Earth.
in Bryce, climbing at Indian Creek,
in the country. And don’t forget
You won’t find the powder stashes of
paddling the Green River. You name
Moab, where cold craft beer awaits
the Wasatch and the high alpine lakes
the outdoor sport and there’s an
you after a big day climbing, paddling
of the Uintas. You won’t find another
iconic spot to do it here. How to take
or biking. Nowhere else compares.
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2016
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0 8 . 16 BIG BLUE: MADELOC TOWER STANDS 2,132 FEET ABOVE THE WAVES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN AND CONNECTS TO THE LARGEST TRAIL SYSTEM IN FRANCE.
TAKE A TRIP TO THE SOUTH OF FRANCE TO STAY AT REFUGE MADELOC AND EXPLORE NEARBY HIKING ON THE GR SYSTEM—AND, OF COURSE, DINE WELL. | by M. MICHAEL BRADY
H
ead south along the western coast in Mediterranean France or take the train through the Pyrénéss-Orientales Department. As you approach the Spanish border—with the deep blue of the sea on your left—the rugged foothills of the Pyrenees rise up to the southwest. Creating a natural border between France and Spain, these mountains are jsut as full of adventure as they are history. On some summits you may spot stone masonry towers. They were part of a visual signaling system built in the 13th century, and the highest of them sits on the summit of Madeloc, perched at an elevation of 2,132 feet. It commands one of the best views you will find on this stunning coastline. This is also vineyard country: The surrounding Languedoc-Roussillon region leads oeno-crazy France in terms of total vineyard area and annual production of wine. It’s hiking country, too, starting at sea level where the Pyreenes plunge into The Mediterranean, and ascending through the foothills and minor peaks up to the summit of Canigou at 9,137 feet, about the same vertical height difference as between the Court House in Denver and the summit of Long’s Peak. photo by FLORIAN PÉPELLIN
Trekking is a popular outdoor nestled in towns. Most gîtes are not activity here in France, and there staffed (the way many European are extensive facilities to make the mountain huts are), but to offically journey more, well, European. The classify as a gîte the owner(s) must national network of Sentier de Grand live close by to provide assistance and Randonnée (GR), which translates as welcome guests. “long-distance hiking trails," totals The Refuge Madeloc, which 37,000 miles of well-marked takes its name from the and signed paths, among nearby Madeloc Tower, the biggest systems classifies as a “Gîte NEED TO KNOW in any country. Rural” on the CONTACT THE GITE OPERATORS The National Gîtes de France DIRECTLY AT RERFUGEMADELOC.COM Institute of website (see Geographic sidebar), The Gîtes de France website and Forest a listing (aen.gites-de-france.com) has options Information of some in English or French as well as other European (IGN) also 30,000 languages. The European Ramblers publishes gîtes in the Association of the outdoor organizations a series of country. maintains trails in 34 European 380 regularlyMadeloc is Countries (including the GR trail network updated self-contained, of France). era-ewv-ferp.com 1:25,000 scale accommodates maps of hiking up to ten people areas here, and you can in four bedrooms, and purchase them at bookshops includes a lounge and dining and newsstands throughout the area, a kitchen for self-catering, a country. The best part? Along most of bathroom and two shower rooms. It’s these trails you will find gîtes, a type completely off the electricity supply of overnight accommodation found grid, powered by solar-cell lighting in France, Belgium and Switzerland. and wood-stove heating. The word gîte comes from the Old Madeloc's in a sheltered location French giste, which also is the root of at an elevation of 1,500 feet, the modern French verb gésir (“to be with a magnificent view of the lying”). There are many varieties of Mediterranean Sea. Like many other gîtes, from houses in remote locations older buildings in the foothills of the to bed-and-breakfast establishments Pyrenees, its history is entwined with
that of past conflicts. It originally was built in 1885—after the humiliating Second French Empire defeat in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870—as Caserne Taillifer, a barrack for the Taillifer coastal artillery battery on the hilltop above. David and Linda Cadwallader, a multilingual English couple long residents in France, discovered the abandoned Caserne Taillifer in 2009 and spent three years renovating and upgrading it to the accommodation standards of Gîtes de France. The refuge is open to groups of six to ten in double rooms, either self catering or with meals provided, if required. As avid hikers, the Caldwalladers chose the location well. The Madeloc Tower on the summit above is at the geographic center of a maze of trails in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Routes to two nearby cols to the south, Coll de Vallauria and Coll dels Gascons, connect it to major sytem, including the GR 10, the longest in the system, running 570 miles through the cordillera from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. Refuge Madeloc also is easily accessible, about an hour’s hike from the railway stations in the coastal towns of Collioure or Port Vendres. The closest airport serving intercontinental flights is at Barcelona in Spain, 95 miles south.
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GEAR UP
0 8 . 16
LOVE ON THE ROCKS
WANT THE PERFECT DATE NIGHT? SKIP THE POKEMON SEARCHES AND THE SCENE AT THE BAR AND HEAD TO THE LOCAL CRAG LATE ON A SUMMER AFTERNOON. JUST BE SURE TO DRESS TO IMPRESS. words by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN photos by ANDREW BYDLON /
CAVEMAN COLLECTIVE
SIMUL CLIMBING SWEETIES: MOLLY AND THOMAS DESCHENES GET ALL STARRY-EYED AFTER TOPPING OUT IN BOULDER’S FLATIRONS.
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(M)
BEDROCK CAIRNS
Even the best climbing shoes can hurt. So why not give your toes a break when you are belaying, hanging out or walking up to that crag? These comfy adventure sandals feature a sticky Vibram sole, tough enough to handle a short hike as well as some maneuvering around while you holding your partner. $88; bedrocksandals.com
(M) FIVE
TEN LOGO TEE
No one wants to look like a NASCAR driver, plastered with brand names, but some brands have earned the real-world cred to make you feel proud to blare their logo. Take Five Ten, which invented the original sticky rubber, count Sasha DiGiulian and Cedar Wright among its stable of athletes and supports a Middle Eastern climbing team in the name of making a better world. $20; fiveten.com
(M) LA
SPORTIVA ACRO PANT
Any guy who is out to impress doesn’t want a pant that cramps his style out on the rock. Enter the comfy cotton Acro, which has just enough lycra to give it some stretch when you are out climbing, but looks entirely presentable when you want to hit the town for that postcrag cocktail. $119; sportiva.com
(M)
FIVE TEN QUANTUM
Even when he’s just out on the rock for an evening, a dude takes the art of climbing seriously. The Quantum, bolstered with C4 rubber designed with the input of the über Huber brothers, helps keep him on his game. For such an aggressive shoe, it can take on a wide variety of rock and it’s a tad more comfortable thanks to a wider last and breathable tongue. $185; fiveten.com
(W) PATAGONIA
HOTLINE TOP
It’s designed for yoga but this organic cottonand-spandex top can take on climbing, running, hiking and any other active pursuit you choose. Plus, feel guilt-free wearing it since Patagonia is a B Corp, legally responsible to the environment and social good over the bottom line. $49; patagonia.com
(W) LA
SPORTIVA KATANA
Want one shoe that can handle just about anything? Women will wow with their rock skills in the surprisingly comfy Katana. The stylish shoe fits so well thanks to easy-to-adjust hookand-loop straps. Most important, it has the edging capability to take on tough sport routes but enough guts to jam it into trad cracks. Oh, that versatility means it’s a fine gym shoe, too. $150; sportiva.com
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www.alamosa.org
HEAR THIS
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HOT SUMMER SOUNDS
CHECK OUT THESE FRESH TUNES FROM FIVE BANDS HEADED TO COLORADO THIS SUMMER. by JEDD FERRIS
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avigating the multitude of live music options in our great state can be a daunting task. Need some help? We want to recommend these five acts, coming to the Front Range in late summer with new albums in tow.
BAND OF HORSES NEW ALBUM: WHY ARE YOU OK THE DOPE:
Throughout 12 years of creating music, Band of Horses has teetered its sound between atmospheric indie fireworks and takeit-easy 70s folk-rock. The new “Why Are You Ok,” the band’s first studio album in four years, finds a nice balance between the group’s different stylistic leanings. The opening twosong combo “Dull Times/The Moon” starts with a mellow stroll through Floydian space, while frontman Ben Bridwell reflects on mundane aspects of life as a family man, before taking off with chunky, distorted alt-rock chords in the latter tune. Domestic reflection continues in the catchy, effects-laced “In a Drawer,” which features backing vocals from J. Mascis of Dinosaur Jr. The band also finds bliss in the ethereal flow of its breakout single, “The Funeral” and in the gentle “Hag”; proof that even in a dad-rock headspace Bridwell and his crew can conjure their early glory. PLAYING: August 11 at Mishawaka Amphitheatre, August 12 at the Fox Theatre and August 13 at the Ogden Theatre
DAVID GRISMAN SEXTET NEW ALBUM: DAVID GRISMAN SEXTET THE DOPE: Back in 1976, mandolin
icon Grisman recorded a groundbreaking, eponymous album with the photo by Drive-By Truckers
David Grisman Quintet, producing an instrumental string band sound that blended bluegrass with jazz, Latin music and other genres from around the world. Four decades later, at age 71, Grisman is still playing his self-dubbed “Dawg Music,” a hybrid style that influentially broadened possibilities in the acoustic music landscape. Earlier this summer he released “David Grisman Sextet,” his first album of original material in 10 years. Grisman and company are still pushing boundaries and unearthing lost art forms with nimble-fingered string wizardry. Standouts on the new effort include the quiet tone poem “Newly Wedding,” a look back at vintage Gypsy Jazz, and “Slinky,” which dives headfirst into hard bop and funk. The playful “Dawg’s Bounce” is a sunny jug band romp that demonstrates Grisman can still have plenty of fun as he continues to deliver a first-class musical education. PLAYING: August 12 at Chautauqua Auditorium
DRIVE-BY TRUCKERS NEW ALBUM: AMERICAN BAND THE DOPE: The Truckers have
certainly never been shy about social commentary. For the past 20 years the band’s primary songwriters Patterson Hood and Mike Cooley have told vivid tales of Southern underdogs navigating rural pitfalls and cultural stereotypes that are hard to overcome. This fall, though, the band is getting overtly political with it latest studio album, “American Band,” which
drops on September 30—about a month before we all go to the polls. The band used the phrase “protest music” in materials announcing the new album, as songs will directly address the country’s recent mass shootings and the unrest in Ferguson after the death of Michael Brown. Lead single “Surrender Under Protest” points fingers at those who resisted removing the Confederate Flag from the South Carolina Statehouse after the church shooting in Charleston, South Carolina. Mixing politics and music isn’t for everyone, but the Truckers always deliver a raucous rock show. PLAYING: August 20 at Red Rocks with Yonder Mountain String Band and the Preservation Hall Jazz Band
CHRIS ROBINSON BROTHERHOOD NEW ALBUM: ANYWAY YOU LOVE, WE KNOW HOW YOU FEEL THE DOPE: It appears the Black
Crowes are officially done. It’s time to move on. Chris Robinson certainly has. Earlier this summer he released his fourth studio album with the Chris Robinson Brotherhood, now a seasoned crew of jam players, including guitar slinger Neal Casal, that Robinson first assembled back in 2010 to drench his bluesy vocals in extended psychedelic grooves. The new effort, “Anyway You Love, We Know How You Feel,” runs through a range of roots-minded sounds, from the jangly country rocker “Ain’t It Hard But Fair” to the twangy
THIS IS WHAT PROTEST LOOKS LIKE: THE DRIVE-BY TRUCKERS LATEST TAKES ON POLITICS AND IGNORANCE IN AMERICA.
Southern gospel of “California Hymn.” These guys like to stretch out on stage, so these songs and other new cuts will certainly find alternate dimensions on stage. PLAYING: September 16 at Red Rocks Amphitheatre with Railroad Earth and Anders Osborne
RAY LAMONTAGNE NEW ALBUM: OUROBOROS THE DOPE: In the spring LaMontagne
released “Ouroboros,” a multidimensional folk-rock odyssey co-produced by My Morning Jacket's Jim James. The album is a heady ride with patient, retro-psychedelic rock swirling around the singersinger’s soulful vocals. This summer, LaMontagne has been borrowing all of the Jacket boys, sans James, to recreate the album’s sounds in the live setting on a lengthy summer tour. If you hate concert spoilers stop reading here. If you want to know what to expect: The shows have featured LaMontagne starting solo and running through some of his old acoustic staples (“Trouble,” “Shelter”). Then the band comes out for a full run through “Ouroboros,” before continuing the electric assault. Chances are James will want his band back soon, so expect this tour to be a limited opportunity. PLAYING: September 18 at Red Rocks Amphitheatre
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THE ROAD
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SLOW AND HEAVY: HARVEY AND SMITH ESCHEWED RACING FOR RECORD TIMES SO THAT THEY COULD ENJOY THE BEAUTY OF THE JOURNEY.
LATERAL THINKING OR HOW AN EPIC TRAVERSE OF A LONG, EXPOSED RIDGE IN THE SIERRA WAS THE NATURAL EVOLUTION OF A LIFE OF CLIMBING, EXPLORATION AND CHANGING PERSPECITVE. words and photos by KENNAN HARVEY
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he Evolution Traverse rises majestically within the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California—an endless granite ridgeline enchaining numerous 13,000-foot peaks named after a group of genetic evolutionists from the 19th century. But the first traverse was not completed until 1997 by Peter Croft, right around the time I was winding down from a prolific decade-and-a-half of global adventure. I became intrigued with the accomplishment and the concept 40
of “lateral thinking.” As Croft says, a mantra for our success. "Find the “Normally you do a route, get to the key, unlock the route," Josh joked. summit—the prettiest place of them In seriousness, the Evo Traverse all—and then you just go back down. takes low fifth class climbing and But when you do a ridge traverse, propels it into space: It’s a single, it is like being on the summit all knife-edge pathway surrounded by day long.” Yet this mindset and this a dozen fatal choices. Repeat for 8.5 brilliant traverse were mainly ignored. miles, or 44,880 steps, every easy In 2002, Matt Samet move, riveting. It is mentally did complete an early massive. repeat. Climbing harles solo he endured a Darwin “Although specifically minimal bivi and theorized referring to genetics, lost his car key, that species evolution also provides presumably at change and his basecamp. adapt over a lovely metaphor for The irony is time in order climbing. Keep trying that when Matt to survive. It was strung out, took a cadre of and great things will dehydrated and similar thinkers— happen.” benighted, focusing scientists, poets, on that key at kept him philosophers— to going. Finally he stumbled support his theory. Although into the parking lot and was denied specifically referring to genetics, the key and the haven of his warm evolution also provides a lovely car, and he ended up begging for metaphor for climbing. Keep trying transport into town for a locksmith. and great things will happen. Last fall, my longtime buddy Josh For example, Croft made several Smith and I finally decided to go excursions along the traverse before have a look-see. Matt's key became linking the whole thing in one long
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day. "It's a lost, or ignored idea," he says, "the idea of magnificent failure rather than a mediocre success." On the year of the first Earth Day, in 1970, my parents moved my family into the mountains of western North Carolina, a pristine, wooded valley below Mount Mitchell. We joined Celo Community, a Quakerbased social experiment started in the 1930s. Here I met Josh. We became best friends, spending our days catching crawdads, swinging on grapevines and mixing gunpowder from the formula gleaned from the encyclopedia. By ages 11 and 12, we were competent explorers, often gone for several days at a time hiking the mountain ridgelines in bare feet with only a tarp, pocket knife, billy-can pot and several boxes of 19-cent, plain-label macaroni and cheese dinners. Very early we learned to navigate and persevere. Most important, like the evolutionists, we learned to observe. We both moved west for college, where I caught the climbing bug and just managed to graduate. My highpoints were fast-and-light,
alpine first free ascents. With only self-taught weather forecasting abilities and 7.5-minute paper maps, observational skills determined success. Objective hazards require continual assessment, scanning and deciding how to climb the next 10 feet efficiently and quickly. Josh, who is more meticulous than I, spent his 20s creating a more mainstream career before inevitably accepting that his Celo upbringing catered well to extreme adventuring. Very quickly, 5.13 became his standard and we became a team again, now 46 years strong. My mentors, however, were 5.11 trad climbers, which was a high standard at the time. Eager to impress, 5.12 was our generation's obsession. If our teachers climbed 5.11 why couldn't we do better? This was not a conscious articulation but I now clearly understand it is a primary contributor to the evolution of any human endeavor. Those who come before us contribute to our individual success, mentally at least.
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he Evo Traverse comprises 10,000 feet of elevation gain and 26 miles of hiking and climbing. Our approach was all comfort and scenery— tent, sleeping bags, stove and food— or “slow and heavy” if you will. Aside from heavier packs, this plan removed the stress of route-finding in the dark and allowed for a cocktail hour quitting time of 5 p.m. each day to watch the sunset, rehydrate and sleep in comfort. Our arrival also coincided with the first thunderstorm in many weeks and it deposited an inch of hail into unmelted pockets on the north side of the otherwise dry ridgeline. Viola, water problem solved! A beautiful aspect of adventure is simplicity. A Buddha manages this through isolation, but I have achieved this state many times climbing. It is often called, “the zone.” One benefit of our extended friendship is that Josh and I are able to make the necessary decisions while in the zone. After hiking in for many hours, we quickly adapted to the exposed terrain along the actual ridgeline, instinctively knowing when to get out the rope for safety or when it was time to stop and rest. Although our goal the first day was Mount Darwin, when we reached Mount Mendel, we found a great bivi and happily changed the plan. During the previous week, a huge
forest fire to the west had blanketed the area with dense smoke. Lucky for us that on our first day, the fire abated enough to clear the air where we were camping and yet still intensify the gold colors of western sunset bouncing off the rocks and the Range of Light. I was extremely exhausted but fulfilled and uplifted. Even without Samet's key I felt like a door had been opened and I was at peace. I could have gone home the next day. This must be the magnificent failure Peter was talking about. The following morning further established our rhythm of shuffling, scooting, route finding, balancing, grunting and tip toeing. We stopped at each summit register to read about prior ascents. Most discussed the speed of reaching each particular summit, but, occasionally, we found a more practiced assessment of, “moving slow,” like in the entries of longtime alpinists Paul Teare and Jay Smith, Although I enjoy reading about summit history, I have never felt comfortable with the arrogance of attaching name and paper to a mountain top so I photographed Josh reading the registers instead. Certainly, my opinion also displays a type arrogance. Our second morning found us closer to the smoky valleys outlining the distant eastern skyline of the Palisade Traverse, another five-star objective traversing past several 14,000 foot peaks. Feeling satisfied as we approached Mount Huxley, the final obstacle to this endless serpentine ridgeline, I began to fantasize about future objectives we might attempt together, such as the Palisades. Stop, I said to myself, this is how accidents happen. So I refocused my vision onto each and every foot placement. Suddenly, there it was, just lying on a rock. I whooped at Josh, who was just ahead. He immediately recognized the tiny black oval shaped object—Samet's lost VW key. "No way," he said, "not possible, no way.” Coincidence or destiny, premonition or intuition? Certainly it was a needle in a haystack but that is exactly the kind of attention that is required for lateral thinking. Kennan Harvey is a photographer based in Durango. You can see his work and read more of his adventures at KennanHarvey.com.
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It’s a single, knife-edge pathway surrounded by a dozen fatal choices. Repeat for 8.5 miles, or 44,880 steps, every easy move, riveting. It is mentally massive.
VERTICAL PHILOSOPHY: IN THE WORDS OF PETER CROFT, A RIDGE TRAVERSE LIKE THE EVO IS LIKE BEING ON A SUMMIT ALL DAY LONG. A U G U S T 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M
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ELWAYVILLE
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HIGH LIFE LESSONS WANT TO KNOW THE SECRETS TO WHY MOUNTAIN PEOPLE “NEVER GET OLD”? by PETER KRAY
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’ve been digging on Nathaniel Rateliff & The Night Sweats lately. I love the energy, the soul ... and I love the fact that they have such strong Colorado ties. In particular, I can't get away from the song, “Never Get Old,” including the studio version and also the live Honda Stage at the El Rey Theater version you can watch at this link: youtube. com/watch?v=ZWh40baXmqQ. I’m a guitar guy at heart, but any band with a horn section and solid keyboards still lights me up. That and the fact that these guys seem like they’re really doing it for the music, not just the paycheck. As for the “Never Get Old” part, I also think that’s a subject near and dear to many a Rocky Mountain person’s heart. That’s because as many young people as I have met getting old early in the city—chasing paychecks and mortgages and sweaty commutes— I’ve met even more “old people” staying young in the mountains, chasing the sun and the snow across high trails and cold chairlifts. Mountain people seem to stay younger longer. City people get older and fatter faster because they don’t get outside enough. They spend too much time sitting at their desks making money to pay people to massage or manipulate the body parts they should be moving by themselves. Mountain people put all their focus on getting out—especially with the kids, significant others, best friends, legendary mountain dogs and stuff. And with every hike, swim, paddle, pedal and long line cast, I think they experience a kind of connection with the world and with each other that city life just can’t match. Here are a few other qualities mountain people have that set them apart from anyone else:
YOU CAN TRUST THEM WITH YOUR LIFE In mountain towns, there’s a much llustration by KEVIN HOWDESHELL / kevincredible.com
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deeper network of friends and neighbors who are professionally and recreationally committed to the preservation of your life. They may have you on belay or blinking at the other end of their transceiver. They may be on ski patrol or volunteer for search and rescue. Maybe they battle wildfires and they are out right now fighting some spruce-crowning monster to save your home from a voracious blaze. No matter what, there are a lot of mountain people who make it their living to look out for everyone else. Quick tip—buy them drinks.
THEY TREAT THE WEATHER LIKE SERIOUS BUSINESS
Because weather almost always is a mountain person’s business. While most folks check the forecast to see how it’ll impact their weekend plans or Labor Day cookout, mountain people have a little more in-depth relationship with the meteorological charts. That's namely because something as inocuous as a massive low-pressure pattern can have a significant impact on how they do their work—especially in the winter, when Mother Nature drops the frozen hammer and delivers an historically big dump. Quick tip—City people refer to this as, “bad weather.” Mountain people refer to it as, “EPIC!”
THEY DON’T COMMUTE
My buddy Mikey Franco of Franco Snowshapes and I were riding Copper early one season when we noticed a man on skis wearing jeans and an immaculate hand-tooled leather jacket in the lift line ahead of us. We quickly shuffled up the line to share a chair with him, and to compliment him on his embossed bald eagle with talon-borne arrows and fireworks. He said he had lived in Denver but moved to Leadville. Why? “Road rage!” he said, and didn’t say another thing the entire lift ride. Quick tip— City people wake up at 5 a.m. on a Saturday to start the one- to four-hour
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drive for first tracks. Mountain people wake up at 7 a.m., have coffee and breakfast, and walk to the lift.
THEY HAVE THE HAPPIEST DOGS ON THE PLANET
The two things my friends on Facebook post more than anything else in the world—by a huge margin—are pictures of their kids in the mountains, or of their dogs in the mountains, totally blissed out on nature, high altitude adventure, and heartbreaking sunsets. It’s usually some mixture of both. And it’s always awesome, and thoughtful, and full of perspective about how powerfully outdoor living can improve our lives. Quick tip—Mountain dogs experience that “Kodak Moment” every day of their lives.
THEY KNOW THINGS CHANGE QUICKLY, AND THEY DEAL WITH IT
Weather can change anywhere, at any time, but only in the mountains and on the ocean does it do so with such immediate consequence. And whether in the greater economic picture it’s gold or snow, no other place can go so quickly from boom to bust. If it’s another mud season, a deluge or drought, floods or fires, mountain people know that change is the only constant, and rely on themselves and the character of their community to survive and thrive from it. Quick tip—It’s pretty awesome to live, and “age,” in a place like that.
—Elevation Outdoors editor-at-large
Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing. The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” Don’t believe the hype? You can buy it here: bit.ly/godofskiing
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