Elevation Outdoors September 2016

HIGH-OUTPUT GEAR | EXPLORE LARAMIE | SECRETS OF AUTUMN SEPTEMBER 2016

FREE!

GO OUTSIDE & PLAY

RUN

How to Win with Joseph Gray BIKEPACKING

THE SAN JUANS

THE WAR ON

PUBLIC LANDS

STEP INTO THE STREAM

FALL 2016 GUIDE TO

FLY FISHING

ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM

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When it’s tailgating time, we’re all equal on

the scoreboard. And the only way to get an

edge is with a bold, citrus-inspired slam dunk, touchdown, home run of a beer — the new Drumroll APA.

It’s the go-to that goes with.

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CONTENTS

September 2016 THE BIG OPEN: BLAKE GORDON FINDS SPACE BIKEPACKING IN THE SAN JUANS. SEE PG 36

K I ROLAL VAILABLE NOW! BIKE HIGHLIGHT:

DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

7 EDITOR’S LETTER

25 JOSEPH GRAY

Love Louder.

Finding adventure in Laramie.

This four-time USA Mountain Running National Champion is absolutely crushing the sport. He's a black athlete competing in a sport that's long been dominated by white faces. But Joseph Gray is taking it all in stride as he changes perceptions about race and running and the simple joy of going out and getting lost in the magic of a bigmountain run. By Michelle Theall.

Photographs by David Clifford.

19 THE TRAIL

28 ASK A GUIDE

Use the ViewRanger app to head to the top of Rabbit Ears Peak.

Want to go fly fishing? We have the beta on the best water for success.

21 NUMEROLOGY

32 THE GEAR GOODS

Facts and figures on two wheels.

Get outside and play this fall with these toys for the trail and water.

8 QUICK HITS Run Silverton, climb Rifle, drink up Glenwood Springs and more!

13 FLASHPOINT The battle is on for the future of America's public lands.

16 HOT SPOT

23 STRAIGHT TALK April Archer and SaraBellaFishing put women out on the water.

photo above by BLAKE GORDON

35 HEAR THIS RDYN DRAK GBS EMPLOYEE | JO

E | RED CONE PEAK

How Elephant Revival survived the fire that burned down its tour bus.

36 THE ROAD

N O S A E S SKI Y T R A P F F KICKONTAINEERING CENTER AT THE AMERICAN EMORU 29TH | 5PM

SEPTEMB

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If you go bikepacking in the San Juans, beware of Texans in FJs.

38 ELWAYVILLE Things to celebrate this fall.

WANT MORE? CATC H

U P ON PAST ISSU ES, YOU R FAVORITE B LOG G E RS A N D DAILY ON LIN E-ON LY CON TEN T AT ElevationOutdoors.com ON TH E COV ER: MOU N TA IN RU N N IN G C H A M P JOSEPH G R AY (SEE PAG E 25).

PH OTO BY: DAV ID C LIFFOR D / DAV ID C LIFFOR D PH OTOGR PA H Y.C OM

ONCE IN A WHILE, SOMEONE COMES ALONG THAT LEAVES THE WORLD A DIFFERENT PLACE THAN HE OR SHE FOUND IT. INTRODUCING BRISTOL’S FORGOTTEN GENIUS 4-PACK SERIES. INSPIRED BY NIKOLA TESLA. Tesla hardly receives credit for a third of the technological advances he’s actually responsible for. But then, he was motivated less by money or fame, and more by the notion that his life’s work could make other lives better. We’d like to second that emotion.

THUS, THREE AWESOME NEW 4-PACKS FROM BRISTOL:

HOPPY • PUNGENT • ROBUST

BRIGHT • FRUITY • REFRESHING

HOPPY • SPICY • COMPLEX

PICK ONE UP AT YOUR FAVORITE LIQUOR STORE AND EXPLORE SOMETHING NEW FROM BRISTOL. #POWERTOTHEPEOPLE

CONTRIBUTORS

ElevationOutdoors.com EDITORIAL ED ITOR-IN -CH IEF

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com MA N AG IN G ED ITOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR ED ITOR

CHRIS KASSAR

chris@elevationoutdoors.com IN TER N

KATIE PELLICORE

play@elevationoutdoors.com C ON TRIBUTIN G ED ITORS

AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, JAYME MOYE, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN ED ITOR-AT-LARG E

PETER KRAY

C ON TRIBUTIN G WRITERS

KRISTA CRABTREE, KRISTEN DOBROTH, BLAKE GORDON, PATTY MALESH, AVERY STONICH, MICHELLE THEALL, BETSY WELCH, SCOTT WILLOUGHBY, MELANIE WONG ART + PRODUCTION MEGAN JORDAN

A RT D IREC TOR

megan@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR D ESIG N ER

LAUREN WALKER

lauren@elevationoutdoors.com G RA PH IC D ESIG N ER

PAIGELEE CHANCELLOR

paigelee@elevationoutdoors.com

ADVERTISING + BUSINESS BLAKE DEMASO

PR ESID EN T

blake@elevationoutdoors.com PU BLISH ER

ELIZABETH O’CONNELL

elizabeth@elevationoutdoors.com

09.16

WHERE DO YOU GO WHEN FALL HITS THE HIGH COUNTRY? DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN Few things are more magical than riding in a full-golden aspen grove like Crested Butte's Dyke Trail.

ELIZABETH O'CONNELL You'll find me aspen peeping at Brainard Lake. Really there aren't enough fall weekends.

CAMERON MARTINDELL Any adventuring along the Peak to Peak highway is close and makes for an easy day of hiking or biking or even a simple overnight camping trip.

CHRIS KASSAR First, I head to Aspen Ridge near Buena Vista—the name says it all. Next, I hit Salida Mountain Sports for a ski tune-up so I’m ready, because the snow could fall any day now....

MICHELLE THEAL Moraine Valley in Rocky Mountain National Park for the elk rut.

SEN IOR AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

MARTHA EVANS

martha@elevationoutdoors.com AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

BEN YOUNG

ben@elevationoutdoors.com

BU SIN ESS MAN AG ER

MELISSA GESSLER

melissa@elevationoutdoors.com CIRC U LATION MA N AG ER

HANNAH COOPER

hcooper@elevationoutdoors.com ON LIN E

DIGITAL MEDIA D IR EC TOR CRAIG SNODGRASS craig@elevationoutdoors.com

D IG ITA L MA N AG ER

TYRA SUTAK

tyra@elevationoutdoors.com

E L E VAT I O N OU T D O O R S M AG A Z I N E

2510 47th Street Unit 202 Boulder, Colorado 80301 (303) 449-1560 PU B L I S H E D BY ©2016 Summit Publishing, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

SUMMIT

PUBLISHING

PRINTED ON RECYCLED NEWSPRINT WITH 100% POST-CONSUMER CONTENT

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DAVID CLIFFORD Crested Butte’s 401 trail is always a good choice and the drive from Carbondale to CB over Kebler pass is amazing.

KRISTA CRABTREE I search out singletrack in the biggest stands of aspen trees possible. Locally, it's trails around Ned. Next stop, Hyde Park in Aspen.

MELANIE WONG Nothing's better than riding through the golden aspens in Vail or Beaver Creek.

PETER KRAY I just love to watch the aspens turn, no matter where I find them.

EDITOR’S LETTER

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TRUTH TO POWER: IS IT POSSIBLE TO LISTEN AND SPEAK? | illustation by JEREMY COLLINS

LOVE LOUDER It came across in a Facebook message while I was working on this issue of the magazine: LOVE LOUDER. It was a simple, powerful illustration from my friend Jeremy Collins, who is a master of simple, powerful images (and often sends me random Facebook messages). My response: “Yes! That's it exactly.”

If you don't know Jer or his work, you should. I'm certainly a fanboy. He's a unique voice in the outdoor world, a talented climber who is also an innovative artist. His lifestyle brand, Meridian Line (see page 32), features his drawings and engages in sustainable and made-in-the-USA practices. He provided illustrations for Rock and Ice magazine for years, but his work goes beyond magazine editorial: He's found a way to combine both his passions, for peaks and for illustration, into art that speaks in a deeper way about how we relate to the natural world with all the soul-soaked tradition of Muir and Abbey as well as an understanding of the unique perspecives of 21st century life.

His film “Drawn,” which dealt with celebrating the life of our mutual friend Jonny Copp, and dealing with his loss in an avalanche in 2009, brought all that creativity together into a story that proved we can create real art about this outdoor experience. It does not have to be all endless marketing catalog copy and my-life-is-the-best Instagram posts and top ten lists. There is so much more depth in this experience.

I also conisder Jeremy to be a collaborator, along with so many others in the outdoor industry, in my own quest to find a way to build a better world through what we can experience in the outdoors, in wilderness. Out on the trail, the noise of modern life fades pretty fast, not just the buzz of electronics, but, more so, the constant screaming of a planet full of people at each others' throats.

Love Louder. In a summer full of political ranting at every corner, of selfrighteous polarization, of protests and mass murders, of police shootings and police being shot, of all of our human dialogue feeling as if it were being reduced to nothing more than shouting at each other, Love Louder made sense to me. Jer was initially worried about the term: There are too many loud voices out there already. Love should not be another argument. But if we resist the temptation to shout, can we maybe speak about understanding rather than constantly turning up the volume? Shouting is easy. Compassion, understanding, staying above the fray? That's difficult. Love Louder may not be the final slogan of this campaign that Jer and I and so many others are on, but it certainly is a start.

We find this love in the stillness of the wild. It's a source for that ability to return to the noise of our human world and remain calm and hopeful. I know I want to share that with more people, to climb and simply, quietly Love Louder so that everyone will hear.

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QUICK HITS

09.16

TECHNOLOGY VIEWRANGER SKYLINE Augmented reality navigation is here.

ViewRanger (see page 19) is launching Skyline which will not only show you where to go as you view your route through the lens of your smartphone camera, it also labels peaks, towns and other features. Free; viewranger.com

ALL YOURS: LOOKING FOR BIG DAYS? SIVERTON'S KENDALL MOUNTAIN OFFERS PLENTY OF UNPAVED MILEAGE AND VIEWS. photo by KIRSTEN DOBROTH

GEAR WE LOVE HYDRO FLASK + STRAW LID Over the summer, our Hydro Flask 32-ounce wide-mouth vacuum bottle with the straw lid was just the ticket that made the heat waves bearable. Come winter it will deliver hot drinks to stave off the cold. $40 (+$7 for the straw lid upgrade); hydroflask.com

BOOKS ON THE NOSE In this book cowritten by EO contributing editor Jayme Moye, Hans Florine provides a rare look inside the adrenalinecharged world of big-wall climbing in Yosemite Valley, and doles out his unique insight on how to live a satisfying life, how to achieve big goals and, of course, how an otherwise ordinary guy became a rock star. $25; onthenosebook.com

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SILVERTON LINING MILES OF UNPAVED ROADS, THOUSANDS OF FEET OF ELEVATION GAIN, AND A CHALLENGING SUMMER RACE SCHEDULE MAKE SILVERTON A TRAIL RUNNER’S PARADISE. For most, running 100 miles would be enough for a lifetime, but for the many endurance runners who find themselves consistently pulled back to Silverton, Colorado for the Hardrock 100 Endurance Run, the iconic tour of the San Juan mountains becomes a yearly staple (if they make the lottery, that is). Kirk Apt is one such habitual Hardrockers, who makes his way down from Fruita to wake up at dawn and circumnavigate the hills around Silverton in a yearly pilgrimage that can take participants tens of hours to complete.

“I didn’t finish my first year,” he says, “But, I’m hoping for finish number 23 after this year’s race.”

Apt’s not alone in his perpetual draw to this tiny, former mining town. The mountains around Silverton are riddled with old mining roads that are perfect for shorter out and backs or logging longer mileage as part of a training schedule. Similarly, Silverton’s summer race schedule has established itself as a favorite stop on plenty of mountain runners’ calendars, with ultras, marathons, and mid-distances runs including everything from scenic to extremely challenging options.

The Hardrock 100 (hardrock100.com), in particular, is among the most revered of the area’s established races. The iconic endurance typically ranks among the world’s most difficult ultras, and a mix of trail running’s top athletes, seasoned regulars and Hardrock newbies enter the lottery each year for a chance to “kiss the rock.” Aravaipa Running (aravaiparunning.com) hosts a medley of shorter races based out of Silverton as well, with the Kendall Mountain Run standing out as a popular mid-distance event. Racers can opt for 12

miles or a shorter 11k. There's also the Silverton Alpine Marathon and 50k, which challenges endurance junkies with prime unpaved mileage and thousands of feet in elevation gain. The Silverton 1000 Multi-Day Run (silverton1000.com) is another favorite race series based on Kendall Mountain, with a tagline that boasts “Insanity is an understatement—earn the bragging rights!” as a testament to the crazed running culture that descends upon the area.

And while the scene and comradery of devoted and disciplined runners has played a role in the success of the town’s races, Silverton’s dramatic geography easily makes the case for why so many seek out the area’s trail running options. Apt logged his 23rd finish at the 2016 Hardrock 100, and while many might think such a feat would be rewarded with some well-deserved time off, Apt thinks otherwise: “I stay in the same room at our hotel each year,” he said, “And before we check out, I make a reservation for next year.”

The quirky Wyman Hotel & Inn (thewyman. com) is conveniently located in the midst of town and has maintained a steady influx of guests since the early 20th century. Camping is prime at Silverton Lakes Campground (silvertonlakes. com) and four-wheel-drive accessible dispersed spots available via many dirt roads outside of town.

—Kirsten Dobroth

TAKE AIM AT RIFLE THERE REALLY IS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE HERE AT NORTH AMERICA'S TOUGHEST LIMESTONE SPORT CLIMBING CRAG. I knew that Rifle has an epic repuatation as a climbing spot—and I am a thoroughly mediocre rock climber. So the thought of spending a weekend in what is known as the epicenter of the toughest limestone sport climbing in North America seemed daunting at best and wet-my-shorts-worthy at worst.

FINGER LICKIN' GOOD, Y'ALL: THE IMPOSING LIMESTONE OF RIFLE MOUNTAIN PARK'S MEAT WALL FEATURES SEVERAL CLASSIC CLIMBS IN THE 5.11 AND 5.12 RANGE. AUTHENTICATING: DOWNTIME AT THE SAPINERO VILLAGE STORE IS A WELCOME BREAK ON THE 205-MILE WEST ELK LOOP TOUR.

photo by BEN HENSON

After all, this canyon boasts the highest concentration of 5.13s in the world, and some of the best climbers in the business make for the Western Slope hot spot to work on new projects and try ridiculous routes.

We chose a short climb that we judged as a 5.9 for a warm up—but looks are deceiving. Holds you think you can hook your fingers on turn out to be nonexistent. The slick limestone slides out from under your feet at the most inopportune times, and pretty soon, you start second-guessing every next move.

But as the day went on, here’s what we discovered. Yes, Rifle is home to three miles of cryptic, kickyou-in-the-pants climbing, no matter your skill level. You’ll almost never make it up something your first try, and each route is a puzzle that Rifle climbers claim again and again.

However, the nature of the place is changing thanks to a healthy infusion of newer routes rated from 5.8 to 5.10 in recent years.

“That’s a huge stereotype—that you have to be a 5.12 climber to

find stuff here,” says Golden-based climber Jeremy Stocks. “Especially in the last five years, people have added many 9s and 10s. Coming out here can be sort of scary, but that’s not to say you shouldn’t. If you can climb a 10 here and 10 is your limit, you can climb a 10 anywhere. It takes you outside of your comfort zone.”

By the end of the afternoon, I was tackling some of the more humble climbs in the canyon, failing plenty and, oddly enough, completely enjoying myself. In some ways, making it part-way up a route in Rifle was just as gratifying as sending a climb elsewhere.

“That’s how it goes here,” says Rifle fan Zach Friedman.

“You can’t come here expecting to win,” he says. “A lot of people come here out of the gym, or out of Boulder Canyon thinking, ‘Oh, I climb 5.11s,” but that doesn’t mean anything here. Don’t equate your fun with sending, otherwise you’re going to have none of it.”

—Melanie Wong

photo by BETSY WELCH

AUTUMN SPLENDOR WANT TO WRAP UP YOUR ROAD BIKE SEASON WITH ONE LAST BIG BLOWOUT RIDE? HEAD TO THE WEST ELK LOOP. In September in Colorado, everything—the colors, the weather, the produce—is peaking. But here may be no better place to enjoy that golden bounty than the West Elk Loop, one of the state’s 26 Scenic and Historic Byways. Sure, you could drive the 205-mile route with stops along the way, but if you’ve got a bike, a credit card and a sense of adventure, you’re in for some serious sensory overload.

Here's how it rolls: Get an early start in Crested Butte to maximize the fleeting, warm daylight hours.

Enjoy the fast 30 mile spin to Gunnison, which is your last chance

for bike supplies until Paonia. Next Highway 50 takes you from Gunny along the northern flank of Blue Mesa Reservoir, the largest body of water in Colorado. Be sure to stop in at the Sapinero Village Store (don’t blink or you’ll miss it) for a quick history lesson on the Utes and the drowned town of Sapinero. Your next turn is Highway 92, which snakes north between the Black Canyon of the Gunnison (a great viewpoint awaits) and the West Elk Mountains.

Hunker down for the night in Crawford, where you can rest your head at the Hitching Post Feed Store and Motel. In the morning, stop for coffee with Joe Cocker’s ghost at the Mad Dog Cafe, and then start the trek towards peaches and cider in Paonia. Hop on Highway 133 until the turnoff for Kebler Pass. Climb into North America’s largest aspen grove, and enjoy a glorious golden descent back into Crested Butte.

—Betsy Welch

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MERRELL and the M Circle Design are registered trademarks of Wolverine Outdoors, Inc., a subsidiary of Wolverine World Wide, Inc. ©2016 Wolverine Outdoors, Inc. All rights reserved.

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QUICK HITS

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THE CAPRA VENTURE

SPLASH BASH: THE RAGING COLORADO RIVER (ABOVE) IS THE LIFEBLOOD OF GLENWOOD SPRINGS. photo by WHITEWATER RAFTING LLC SPIN CONTROL: TIM BLUMENTHAL (INSET) HAS AN ARMY OF 1.2 MILLION CYCLISTS ADVOCATING FOR BIKE PATHS. photo by PEOPLEFORBIKES

GLENWOOD SPRINGS WELCOME TO I-70’S MOST CIVILIZED STOP TO PLAY—AND ESCAPE. EAT Just across the Colorado River from the famed Glenwood Hot Springs Pool, the Co. Ranch House (970945-9059) specializes in Westerninspired dishes with gems like elk burgers and honey Sriracha duck wings, just waiting to fill your belly up after a day adventuring. Some of the better beers in Colorado are very quietly being turned out at tiny Casey Brewing and Blending (caseybrewing.com). The unique sours and saisons are made with over 99-percent Colorado ingredients, and then aged in vintage oak barrels. You have to reserve tickets in advance to visit, but you will walk away smiling after sipping these suds. In the morning, fuel up on fresh coffee and killer breakfast burritos at Deja Brew Coffee and Tea (970-945-9336).

SLEEP If you want to step back in time, then the Hotel Colorado (hotelcolorado. com) is the place for you. Built in 1893, the hotel is a stunning testament to the past: Large courtyards, expansive decks, and several restaurants ensure you will relax in style. A little farther down the

road is the Best Kept Secret B & B (bestkeptsecretbandb.com). Housed in a 1914 Victorian home, it offers complimentary bikes, an outdoor hot tub and impeccably manicured grounds where you can unwind.

PLAY Located seven miles east of town Hanging Lake is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful spots in the country. The one-mile hike in is moderately strenuous, and the ecosystem here is very delicate so bring your camera, but not your swimsuit. If cycling is your thing hop on the Rio Grande Trail (rfta. com/trail-information/) into the Roaring Fork Valley. Built on an old railroad grade, it's completely car-free all 41 miles to Aspen.

Running right through town, the Colorado River draws rafters and kayakers. Whitewater Rafting LLC (coloradowhitewaterrafting.com) offers everything from a laid back float to shooting class 4 rapids. No visit to Glenwood would be complete without soaking in the springs that surround town. Skip the main pool— it’s a zoo—and head to Yampah Spa (yampahspa.com). Get a full body massage followed by a session in the vapor caves where the waters are loaded with over 35 different minerals and have been revered for their healing properties since preColumbian times.

—Hudson Lindenberger

LOCAL HERO

EXCLUSIVELY AT MERRELL .COM AND THESE PARTICIPATING RETAILERS

COLORADO’S TIM BLUMENTHAL IS LEADING A MOVEMENT TO IMPROVE BICYCLING IN AMERICA. When you ride a bike, you probably don’t think about what went into making your route possible. But it’s likely that Tim Blumenthal had something to do with it. Blumenthal has spent 23 years working to improve bicycling—first as head of the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA), and for the last 12 years, as president of PeopleForBikes (formerly Bikes Belong), Blumenthal’s workday might involve meeting with members of Congress, sharing ideas with other countries, signing grant checks or directing initiatives to make bicycling safer and more appealing.

Now PeopleForBikes is building an army of supporters—1.2 million folks and counting. Last year the organization rallied these troops to the count of 35,000 letters to government officials. The results are tangible. From 1999–2015, the federal government quadrupled its investment in bike projects.

“Bicycling is a simple solution to complex problems,” says Blumenthal.

“When people ride bikes, great things happen.” peopleforbikes.org —Avery Stonich

G RA ND J UNCTI O N, CO G LENWO O D S PRI NG S , CO

JACKS O N, W Y

CO DY, W Y

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FLASHPOINT

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photos by GAGE SKIDMORE/ WIKIMEDIA COMMONS (main), DONKEYHOTEY/WIKIMEDIA COMMONS (inset)

THE WAR ON PUBLIC LANDS ARMED MILITANTS ARE NOT THE ONLY ONES LOOKING TO WREST LAND OUT OF FEDERAL CONTROL. MANY POLITICIANS ARE NOW ON BOARD WITH THE MOVEMENT—AND GAINING GROUND.

by SCOTT WILLOUGHBY

D

an Ashe is at war. Although the Director of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service may bristle at the semantics of that reality, the evidence is in his opposition.

The ongoing battle for control of America’s public lands reached a radical new echelon last winter when a mob of armed militants seized the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge in rural Oregon, a unit that falls under Ashe’s jurisdiction. Even as an inherent optimist, Ashe had difficulty suppressing his outrage over the volitaile occupation.

“I was angry. I was angry because Ammon Bundy and his cohorts were walking around the community, going to the Safeway and buying supplies and going to church on Sunday, and I wanted them in jail,” Ashe said in July. “But I tip my hat

to the FBI. Their whole strategy was to ignore them. They said, ‘They’re way out there at the refuge, and we know that means a lot to you, but they’re isolated and they can’t really do any damage. We’re just going to ignore them and all the press is going

CARTOON CHARACTER: AMMON BUNDY AND CREW CLAIMED THEY WERE SPEAKING FOR THE PEOPLE, BUT LOCALS IN BURNS, OREGON, WERE NOT ON BOARD WITH HIS PLAN.

has ended. And Ashe recognizes that all too well.

Beyond the cascade of death threats to Oregon State Troopers, FBI and federal officials in retaliation to Finicum’s death (he was shot by state police when he ran a road

“WE HAVE TO GET SMARTER. WE HAVE TO HAVE A BETTER STRATEGY THAN THEY HAVE. BECAUSE RIGHT NOW, THEY’RE WINNING.” to go away and they’re going to get frustrated.’ And they were right.

“It was tragic that LaVoy Finicum was killed, but when you think about the loss of life that could have occurred, it could have ended a lot worse.”

A LONG CAMPAIGN

On the grand scale, of course, nothing

block), beyond the blow to employee morale that left half the Malheur NWF workforce wanting to leave, and beyond even William Keebler’s thwarted attempt to blow up a BLM facility near Finicum’s grazing allotment in northwest Arizona, this most explosive manifestation of the public lands takeover effort to date

is just another in a series of historic attempts to wrestle away the wild, open spaces initially set aside for the benefit and use of all Americans.

“This is an ideology and they are waging a campaign. They know what they’re doing,” Ashe says. “It’s closely related to this effort to divest millions of acres from the federal estate. And it’s not about giving it to the states so the states can be better managers of a recreational resource. It’s about converting that land and that resource to capital, to profit. So the [outdoors and conservation] community needs to recognize that. We have to get smarter. We have to have a better strategy than they have. Because right now, they’re winning. They’re doing what the conservation community used to do well—they’re putting together a long ground game, and

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they are changing the minds of voters on this issue. We have to get back to those basics. We have to be better at it than they are.”

It does remain rare to see the fight over America’s public lands played out so vividly on the ground. The political arena has historically served as the battleground for well-funded special interest groups orchestrating attempts to usurp millions of acres of primarily Western lands managed by the U.S. Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management, National Park Service and USFWS. Groups like the American Lands Council, run by Utah state Rep. Ken Ivory and Montana state Sen. Jennifer Fielder, and the congressional Federal Land Action Group created by U.S. House Natural Resources Committee Chairman Rob Bishop and fellow Utah Rep. Chris Stewart, have been chipping away at more than a century of responsible American stewardship with a combination of legislation attempts and erosion of public support by confusing the issue for voters.

Echoing the voices of militants in Oregon, Bishop says his group is working to "return these lands back to the rightful owners”—by taking them away from the American people.

In July, the Republican National Committee upped the ante by approving a national party platform that endorses the disposal of federal public lands, saying, “Congress shall immediately pass universal legislation providing for a timely and orderly mechanism requiring the federal government to convey certain federally controlled public lands to states. We call upon all national and state leaders and representatives to exert their utmost power and influence to urge the transfer of those lands.”

THE COUNTER ATTACK

Such policies, combined with the barrage of Republican-sponsored bills or amendments attempting to undercut protections for public lands in recent years, make it difficult not to frame this as a partisan issue. It isn't entirely. Despite the exclusive support of Republican lawmakers, voters from the party of Teddy Roosevelt have traditionally seen eye-to-eye with Democrats in their opposition to public land transfers. Public opinion in the West and nationwide has shown overwhelming support for conservation of national parks and 14

UP FOR GRABS: IF SPOTS LIKE CEDAR MESA CAME UNDER STATE CONTROL, UTAH WOULD HAVE TO RELY ON VOLATILE OIL PRICES STAYING VERY HIGH TO BE ABLE TO FOOT THE BILL, ACCORDING TO A 784-PAGE REPORT MANDATED BY HOUSE BILL 142 PASSED BY THE STATE LEGISLATURE WHEN UTAH CLAIMED TAKEOVER OF FEDERAL LANDS IN 2014. THE LANDS COULD BE SOLD OFF TO MAKE ENDS MEET. photo by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

public lands through the years, along moneymaker is outright sale of state WHAT’S AT STAKE with high opinions of federal land land. Idaho, for example, has sold According to Outdoor Industry off more than 1.7 million acres (41 management agencies.

Association (OIA), America’s percent) of the 4.2 million given to it Without a sustained counterpublic lands serve as the foundation

by Congress at statehood. That’s an attack, however, folks like Ashe of a $646 billion annual outdoor area nearly the size of the Sawtooth worry that the physical representation recreation economy, with 6.1 million National Forest liquidated and passed of more than 200 years of American Americans relying on the outdoor on to big corporations and other democracy could disappear in a blink. industry for employment. More than private interests.

And Republican land managers like $80 million in annual tax revenue is Economic analysis by multiple Jim Caswell, Director of the BLM spread among communities across the western universities shows that the for eight years under George W. country, including about $1 million in financial burden placed on states Bush and a former National Forest northern Nevada during the weeklong attempting to supervisor in manage millions Idaho, agree. more acres of land “I said, ‘It will STATE TRUST LANDS ARE NOT MANAGED TO transferred from never happen,’ BENEFIT THE GENERAL PUBLIC, MEANING federal agencies is for a long time, OUTDOOR RECREATION TYPICALLY IS FAR likely to result in but now I’m not MORE RESTRICTED. IN COLORADO, MORE significant deficits, so sure,” Caswell THAN 80 PERCENT OF STATE TRUST LANDS demanding says of the ARE CLOSED EVEN TO ROUTINE RECREATION more selloffs. takeover attempts.

Rest assured, it “We’ve lost our LIKE CAMPING AND FISHING. won’t be a group public support. of disgruntled We’ve lost our cowboys buying up that property—or constituency. People do not go to Burning Man. That event’s economic even wilderness-adverse mountain battle for us anymore.” ripple measured between $55-60 bikers, for that matter.

But like the More likely, that constituency has million in 2015. rest of America, they’ve all got skin merely been misplaced as much of By contrast, state-owned lands in in the game. the voting public fails to recognize the West are constitutionally bound to “If we lose our public lands just what’s at stake. The 640 million the sole purpose of funding specific heritage, we’ve lost a lot for a long, acres of federally administered beneficiaries. State trust lands are not long time,” Caswell says. “We have lands owned by the people, for the managed to benefit the general public, to keep them public. They are worth people, are managed for a variety of meaning outdoor recreation typically fighting for.” uses, ranging from livestock grazing is far more restricted. In Colorado, and resource extraction to outdoor more than 80 percent of state trust Scott Willoughby is the former recreational opportunities like lands are closed even to routine Outdoors Editor for The Denver camping, hiking, biking, hunting, recreation like camping and fishing.

Post. His coverage of issues fishing, boating, skiing—even events Beyond income generated through including outdoor recreation, land like the Burning Man festival. timber sales and leases for grazing, management and conservation in the

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / SEPTEMBER 2 01 6

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ROUTE CODE: ELEV0051 5.

BUNNY HOP: THIS HIKE SERVES UP WILDFLOWERS AND BIG VIEWS. photo by CHRIS KASSAR

RABBIT EARS PEAK DOWNLOAD THE FREE VIEWRANGER GPS APP AND THE COORDINATES FOR A FALL ADVENTURE TO THE TOP OF THIS PEAK NEAR STEAMBOAT SPRINGS.

by CHRIS KASSAR Due to recent erosion, Rabbit Ears Peak no longer exactly resembles its namesake—a change made worse when part of the east tower toppled a few years ago. Despite the continual reshaping of this volcanic plug, the summit remains an iconic and popular peak with hikers, bikers and runners of all abilities. The following moderately challenging five-mile roundtrip adventure is only a short drive from Steamboat Springs. It follows an old road winding through open meadows and pines to reach the base of the peak (at about 10,550 feet).

RABBIT EARS TRAILHEAD

From Rabbit Ears Pass Summit (9,426 feet), continue on US 40 to Dumont Lake. Turn left onto Forest Road 315 and follow it for about 1.5 miles. Turn left onto Forest Road 311. Park at an informational kiosk. You can also continue straight over a rougher stretch of road to reach an intersection with Forest Road 291. Turn right and park under some trees near the junction between FR 311 and 291. The route up Rabbit Ears follows the old jeep road (291). Right after you begin hiking, you will turn a corner and get your first glimpse of the tall monoliths.

SOOTHING SEEP

Grizzly Creek parallels the road, creating a rich riparian corridor. After 1.3 miles, you cross a tranquil tributary that trickles across the road. Hop across the seep and follow the road as it ascends steadily through a section flanked by impressive stands of spruce on both sides. Alternating between open meadows and forest, the road travels upward, more steeply now. Though the Rabbit Ears will have now been out of view for some time, take solace in the fact that you aren’t far from topping out. The trail turns sharply east, levels and then drops (for the first time since the trailhead) to pass through a wide-open meadow.

4.

SHORT BUT SWEET

After a total of 2.2 miles, you reach the bottom of this descent. From here, the trail climbs again very steeply to reach a giant pine in the middle of the trail. A small adjacent open area offers views back across the valley and toward the rocky outcrops leading up to the Ears. The route increases in verticality offering a very challenging, lung-busting climb that is (thankfully) very short.

Take your time and push through for a few minutes to reach the top.

5.

RABBIT EARS BASE

Various social trails meander around the base and to the back of the Rabbit Ears. Explore and soak in the views, but take care. We’d recommend you stay on the front side since loose rocks and slippery, narrow trails make this a potentially dangerous spot. After enjoying this spot and refueling, retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

CROSS THE CREEK

Heading north, continue climbing slightly to reach a creek lined with lush vegetation. Leave the creek behind and ascend through an open meadow along a rocky, wide path heading straight toward the Rabbit Ears.

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Note: The Rabbit Ears towers formed from a plug, the remnants of pyroclastic materials—or volcanic rock and ash. That means bits of the pillars can crumble off in your hand, making it sketchy to climb. Though many people tackle the class 4

summit pitch to the top of the west tower (10,654 feet) or a technical route (5.5) to top out on the east tower (10,657 feet), our description ends at the peak’s base.

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CAST OFF: SOUTHERN WYOMING IS FULL OF FISH AND SHORT ON PEOPLE.

LARAMIE LEISURE ESCAPE THE CROWDS THIS AUTUMN BY EXPLORING THE TRAILS, LAKES AND MOUNTAINS IN SOUTHERN WYOMING.

by MELANIE WONG

T

hey don’t call it Big Wyoming for nothing. Whether you’re referring to vast expanses of wilderness, dramatic peaks or—let’s be honest—the sometimes unforgiving weather, Wyoming is larger-than-life. While there’s much to discover in this expansive state, we suggest starting with Laramie, located just a couple hours north of the Front Range and well-situated for a number of outdoor opportunities.

We suggest you take time to visit in the fall, when Laramie’s weather averages a high of 71 degrees and the aspens begin their lovely changes.

Read on for our top adventure picks in the area.

HIKE

Laramie has a big dose of cowboy spirit alongside a sizeable university and quaint downtown that makes for an excellent base to explore the surrounding hills. Day hikers can get photo courtesy BHP IMAGES

a taste of nearby Vedauwoo and its otherworldly granite formations on the paved Box Canyon Trail, a short, family-friendly route that ends with rewarding panoramic views atop Glen Dome. The rocks surrounding the trail offer all sorts of interesting detours if you want to make things more interesting. “Once you get to the top, you can just boulder around, and there are all kinds of cool pockets in the rocks, some as big as rooms,” says Laramie native Kaylee Porter. “And there are also lots of funny-shaped boulders, like one that looks just like a giant fish ... it's like cloud watching.

You could crawl around up there every day and find new crazy places every time.”

Peak baggers ready for more altitude will want to tick off Sugarloaf Mountain (11,398 feet) and Medicine Bow Peak (12,014 feet), which are typically accessible into November.

The nearby Sugarloaf Recreation area boasts more than 80 mountain lakes, rewarding hikers with scenic eyecandy along the way.

CAST

If it’s trout you seek, the Laramie area is a bona fide fly-fishing mecca with cutthroat, rainbow, golden, brown and brook trout thriving in local waters.

The real dilemma is deciding where to start. “This is a great destination for fishing because of its diversity.

We have everything from large rivers to small creeks to alpine lakes,” says

John Blyth, co-owner of the Laramiebased Four Seasons Anglers. Just 10 to 30 minutes out of town, you can access several spots on the Laramie River or drive a bit further to Douglas or French Creek for even more casting. For a rewarding day of hiking and fishing in the Medicine Bow Mountains, start at the Lewis Lake trailhead and hike to South Gap Lake and North Gap Lake, taking time to fish the glistening water and soak in the high alpine surroundings along the way. “Between the lack of people, lack of pressure and the great fishing, it’s a pretty good combination here,” says Blyth.

RIDE ALONG

For nearly a century, the Hahn’s Peak and Pacific Railroad, which ran between Laramie and Coalmont, Colorado, hauled cars upon cars of gold, cattle, timber and coal. But in the late 1990s, the line shut down and converted into a Rails to Trails bike route stretching 21 miles from Centennial (located less than 30 minutes from Laramie) to Fox Park.

Its crushed gravel surface and gentle inclines make it an ideal cruise on a cyclocross or mountain bike.

The area boasts plenty of singletrack, too. A multitude of loops will entertain rides of all levels at Curt Gowdy State Park, a popular recreation area located 30 minutes outside of Laramie. The trails feature fun, challenging detours along

the way that bring riders through narrow gaps, across bridges and over boulders and other natural obstacles.

Weather can be unpredictable in southern Wyoming, so if your fall trip happens to coincide with some early winter moisture, check out Happy Jack Recreation Area, which sports a large network of trails just off Interstate 80. The plain tends to dry out faster than surrounding areas.

LEAF PEEPING Beginning in late September, the mountainous areas surrounding Laramie blaze a vibrant gold as the aspens change color.

One way to chase the fall foliage (and see some of the area's wildlife) is to drive the Snowy Range Scenic Byway. The route begins in rustic Centennial, which boasts several unique restaurants, historic buildings and a train depot. Continue on Highway 130, passing streams, meadows, glacial lakes and aspens as you climb into the Snowies. Optional detours along the way include an overlook for Silver Lake and a fishing pier at French Creek. This is also a great spot to spot moose, elk, birds and other wildlife. The route ends in Saratoga, located next to the North Platte River and home to a free natural hot springs.

—M.W. “Once you’re in Saratoga, don’t miss Aspen Alley, a dirt road just west of town with some gorgeous golden leaves,” says Mike Gray, assistant director of the Laramie Area Visitor Center. “It’s definitely a don’t-miss destination.”

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NUMEROLOGY

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PEDAL DIG INTO THE NUMBERS BEHIND CYCLING IN COLORADO AND BEYOND.

by CAMERON MARTINDELL photo by DEVON BALET

100 million

Amount in dollars committed over the next four years by Colorado’s Governor John Hickenlooper to launch the Colorado Pedals Project with a mission to make Colorado the best state in the nation for cyclists.

18

Miles of bikeway trail open as of March 1, 2016 along US 36 between Denver and Boulder thanks to the completion of Phase 2 of the US 36 Bikeway project.

2

Number of new downhill mountain biking trails open at Powderhorn Mountain Resort with access via its new high-speed quad lift. The resort is also working with local bike shops on a downhill bike series.

4

The chair number to take at Purgatory Resort in Duragno Colorado to ride the new 2.5 miles of purpose-built Divinity Flow Trail.

0.55

Percent of American workers who use a bike as their main vehicle for commuting according to the U.S. Census Bureau in 2010.

11

Average number of bicyclist fatalities per year in Colorado.

93,077

Members of the national nonprofit organization PeopleForBikes in Colorado.

34,500

Number of frequent bike commuters in Colorado according to People for Bikes.

6,800

Pounds of bike tubes repurposed by Green Guru into bags and other gear so far in 2016.

That adds up to about 13,000 individual tubes.

8,100

Vertical feet racers climbed over 41 miles last month during stage three of the 2016 Breck Epic, circumnavigating Guyot Peak and topping out at 12,046 feet at French Pass.

13 days, 22 hours, 51 minutes

The record time for the 2,745-mile, selfsupported Tour Divide set by British cycling monster Mike Hall in 2016. The epic race runs along the Continental Divide from Alberta to the Mexican border.

2,000

Feet of climbing in just 3.7 miles on the Bergan Peak Trail near Evergreen, one of the hardest mountain bike rides in Colorado. Good luck.

158

Maximum heart rate of Nigerian-born British cyclist Chris Froome, while winning the Tour de France in 2016. The average target maximum heart rate for his age is 190 beats per minute.

42

Kristin Armstrong's age when she won gold in the cycling time trial at the Olympics last month.

2

Wheels on a bike, which poses this mystery according to quantum physicist Michael Brooks, wrting in the New Statesman: “It turns out that taking into account the angles of the headset and the forks, the distribution of weight and the handlebar turn, the gyroscopic effects are not enough to keep a bike upright after all. What does? We simply don’t know. Forget mysterious dark matter and the inexplicable accelerating expansion of the universe; the bicycle represents a far more embarrassing hole in the accomplishments of physics.”

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APRIL ARCHER THE CO-FOUDNER OF SARABELLAFISHING TALKS ABOUT HOW THE SPORT OF FLY FISHING CAN GROW TO BECOME A WOMAN’S WORLD.

by KRISTA CRABTREE

W

hatever you do, don’t call April Archer a flyfisherman. “I prefer flyfisher or female angler,” says the co-founder of SaraBellaFishing, a Denver-based company that specializes in women-specific custom fly rods. As a Colorado native, Archer grew up fly fishing on Colorado’s waterways with her dad and brother, then later with her husband. As the former director of the Wellness Living and Learning Community at the University of Denver, she was inspired by the willingness of young people to learn how to balance their lives by taking care of their mental and physical well-being. “Fly fishing is a great way to do that,” says Archer. After becoming a mom to three daughters—and, no surprise, introducing them to fishing—she started paying attention to women in the sport and the lack of suitable equipment for them. Archer now builds custom fly rods, teaches fly fishing classes for women and girls and serves on the board of Colorado Women Flyfishers, a non-profit women’s fly fishing club. We caught up with her between casts to ask her about the growth of SaraBellaFishing and her love of the sport.

WHAT “HOOKED” YOU ON FLY FISHING AS A KID?

It was amazing getting time with my dad and being outdoors. I learned how to look for bugs and tie knots, and about the science of nature and life, since my dad is an engineer with a curious mind. I was always learning and asking questions. Those are some of my best memories.

YOU’RE A MOTHER OF THREE GIRLS. DO YOUR DAUGHTERS ALSO FLY FISH?

They do and they love it. It’s not just about the fly fishing for them. They photos courtesy SARABELLAFISHING

A WOMAN'S TOUCH: APRIL ARCHER (INSET) HEARD TOO MANY STORIES ABOUT WOMEN WHO HAD BAD FLY-FISHING EXPERIENCES BECAUSE OF THE EQUIPMENT. HER SOLUTION WAS SIMPLE: BUILD A WOMAN'S FLY ROD.

love the adventure. They love being outside chasing butterflies, building forts and catching bugs so they can identify which ones to use. They’ve even started to learn how to tie flies.

FLY FISHING TRADITIONALLY IS A MALE-DOMINATED SPORT. HOW ARE YOU HELPING TO CHANGE THAT? WHY ARE YOU PASSIONATE ABOUT HELPING WOMEN?

Women are smart, beautiful and deserve to have equal opportunities in equipment and in life. That’s my underlying passion. Women shouldn’t have to settle for something that’s sub par. I’ve heard so many stories about women who were frustrated with their fly-fishing experience because of the way they were treated or because they did not have the right gear. It’s more effective to do something than to complain about it, so I was inspired to build a company that empowers and meets the needs of women.

HOW DID YOU START SARABELLAFISHING?

The idea started on fishing trips and late-night fireside conversations while I was camping with my husband, JP, and a friend. Also while

watching our three daughters fish and thinking about their future. We started looking at the fly rod as the most essential element—the basic structure in catching fish. Through a lot of research and product testing, we learned to build fly rods and got the product to the point where we felt women would like it.

WHAT MAKES YOUR RODS UNIQUE?

We use carbon-fiber graphite rods.

We paint them and hand wrap the guides (the loops that hold the line).

We build our own cork grips and use repurposed Colorado hardwood for the reel seat. Each custom rod usually takes 8-10 hours to build over four weeks because of the drying process.

WHAT IS IT THAT MAKES THE RODS WOMEN-SPECIFIC?

Instead of SaraBella saying here’s the rod, choice is the answer. We offer rod sizes from 3 weights up to 12 weights (some come in different lengths) because performance is all about size. The other performance piece is the grip, so we offer three different grip options since women’s

hands come in all different sizes. We also offer aesthetic options, including color, wood and custom messages.

Finally, it’s about shopping. Women can go into a retail shop, make a phone call or order online and get exactly what they want.

WHAT'S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO FLY FISH?

Anywhere I have the option, I will fish. I’m a Colorado girl, so I love Colorado waters, whether it’s big rivers or small mountain creeks and lakes or even urban ponds. I learned on the Colorado River, so that’s a special place. I also love South Park and Crested Butte.

WHAT ADVICE DO YOU HAVE FOR YOUNG WOMEN WHO ARE INTERESTED IN FLY FISHING?

Good for you for getting outdoors and finding the sport. It’s something you can do for the rest of your life. Get out of your comfort zone, explore, have fun and learn to tie knots.

For more information or to order a custom rod, go to SaraBellaFishing. com or call 303-908-1933.

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7/27/16 10:28 AM

BE THE CHANGE

IN STRIDE: GRAY'S TRAINING IS ALL ABOUT FAMILY, FOOD AND FINDING BALANCE.

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MANY

MOUNTAINS TO CLIMB

JOSEPH GRAY IS A FOUR-TIME NATIONAL MOUNTAIN RUNNING CHAMPION. HE’S A BLACK ATHLETE COMPETING IN A PREDOMINANTLY WHITE SPORT. AND HE HAS A SIMPLE ANSWER WHEN IT COMES TO HOW TO BATTLE RACISM AND INCREASE DIVERSITY ON THE TRAIL: JUST KEEP WINNING.

by MICHELLE THEALL

A

t 32 years old, Joseph Gray thrashes literal and figurative obstacles. He is a 20-time USA National Team member and a four-time USA Mountain Running National Champion. Never heard of mountain running, a hybrid sport of cross-country length, trail and sometimes road running that takes place in the mountains? That’s okay.

Gray also competed in the marathon at the Olympic trials this summer and he is the only athlete to win the North American Central American and Caribbean (NACAC) Championships in both Cross Country (once) and Mountain Running (a record five consecutive times). Regardless of the terrain, Joseph Gray dominates as an American distance runner in a country where he has been the only athlete of color to make the U.S. Mountain Running team in its 25year history.

With racism and racial tension dominating the news, it's just not ok that most people have never heard of Joseph Gray, a black runner making positive strides in such a

photo by DAVID CLIFFORD

predominantly white sport. But, for the most part, Gray doesn’t focus on race; instead he concentrates on racing. When pressed on the topic, Gray says, “We still have issues in the sport. Training groups that develop athletes in their post-collegiate careers are sponsored by footwear and athletic shoe companies, and there’s disparity in the athletes they’re accepting. There are quality athletes who are deserving of being included, but have been denied. At one point in my career, I was one of them.”

In those cases, he tries to remember his hero Jesse Owens.

“He dealt with [racism] as a class act, without negativity. I try to model myself after him.”

Gray admits that inequalities exist in distance running, but not in sprints or other sports like basketball and football. What’s interesting is that the solution to the problem might just be Gray himself—because it’s hard to ignore consistent results. Winning races gets attention, and the more coverage Gray gets for his mountain running, the more diversity he’s likely to attract to the sport. And Gray wants more people to participate.

“Running is an adventure that can go anywhere you want,” he says.

“Almost anyone can do it. Some use it as a way to explore other cultures.

I love travel and food, and running allows all those things to happen.”

“Joseph Gray dominates as an American distance runner in a country where he has been the only athlete of color to make the U.S. Mountain Running team in its 25-year history.”

T

hough he started out playing basketball during his middle school years, he soon found that he wanted the pressure of winning resting squarely on his own shoulders. “In running, you can’t blame anyone else for a poor performance. You’re always on that high of being in a pressure situation.

Even if you’re on a team, if you don’t

do well individually, it hurts the team.”

As passionate as Gray is about mountain running, he’s still on the fence about it becoming an Olympic event—and loss of sponsorship might be the largest reason. Distance runners don’t garner enough attention or make a ton of money to support their training as it is, and additional rules and politics from a new governing body might take away or lessen the effectiveness of individual sponsorship opportunities. Merrell, Garden of Life, and Spenco sponsor Gray, though he’s quick to point out that most of the companies he personally endorses, he approached because their products impressed him.

“I tried Merrell’s entire line before I made a decision,” Gray says. And yet, self-promotion doesn’t come easy for him. “Today, companies want you to be involved in social media. I come from the old school of competition. I came from a family where you didn’t brag about yourself. I want my fans to know me based on my competition, rather than my social media presence.

So I share my journey and open myself up to talking about training and competing.”

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BE THE CHANGE

Gray participates in about 20 races in any given year, running throughout Europe and Asia, and enjoying another passion of his along the way.

“I like to blend with culture and try new foods. If something’s interesting, I’ll probably try it.” That adventurous spirit backfired when an intestinal parasite he picked up in Malaysia waylaid his training leading up to the 2016 Olympic trials in February.

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“If quitting isn’t in Gray’s vocabulary, being tough on himself is.”

RENAISSANCE RUNNER: GRAY IS JUST AS COMPETITIVE IN ROAD AND TRACK EVENTS AS HE IS ON THE TRAIL. photo by DAVID CLIFFORD

“I lost a lot of time in training in December and January and really couldn’t find my rhythm, but I went anyway for the experience.”

If quitting isn’t in Gray’s vocabulary, being tough on himself is. “I have a hard time pulling out of races,” he says. “I consider the trials one of the worst races of my career. I was mentally and physically unprepared.” Gray finished a disappointing 76th and, as a result, says he’ll make better decisions

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ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / SEPTEMBER 2 01 6

on the road prior to marathon competitions. Yet those who know him best, including his wife Christy, say he never gives less than 100 percent. “No matter what we may be doing or where we are, he doesn’t sacrifice his workout. That dedication and consistency carries over to every other aspect of his life too, including our relationship,” Christy says.

“When he plans trips for us or gifts to me, he plans out every single detail to make it meaningful in some way.”

Gray cites being raised with a military father, a man who was an athlete in his own right, as the driving force behind his discipline and uncompromising work ethic.

“When we played basketball, I could see he was focused and consistent and motivated to be the best he could be.”

Gray says, “I learned that nothing really comes easy.” When asked what his proudest accomplishment is in his life, running or otherwise, Gray answers without hesitation. “The relationship I have with my mother and father. They’re my best friends. They supported me from the day I was born to when I first started running and needed money to pay rent.”

W

hile relationships are important, as an elite athlete, Gray struggles to maintain balance in his life.

Reminders like near-death experiences on the trail keep him grounded. After an unresolved argument one morning, Christy dropped off Gray in a remote area for a winter training run in the mountains outside of their home in Colorado Springs.

“The ridge got technical, with no way to run it without serious mountain gear. I wanted to see the area, so I kept going,” Gray says. “I slid across a gulley and recovered, but it scared me. As an athlete, you know when you’ve crossed that line. I came across another gulley and thought I could almost jump across it. Before I knew it, I was almost horizontal sliding with my face into the side of the mountain. I’m twisting out, looking at this crazy descent with a big drop, and a million things went through my mind about life. I didn’t get to tell my parents and brother and wife that morning that I loved them.”

His wife Christy recalls, “There was a lot of snow, and I remember not liking the idea of him going. They say you should never go to bed angry,

well I think you should never drop off someone angry either!”

The GPS he carried with him that day humbles him. “I still look at it every now and then,” he says. “In a split second, it goes from 1 mph to 30 mph, and I’m back in that moment, barely able to breathe and hanging from a rock thinking, ‘No one is going to find me.’”

“I should never leave a situation unresolved. Life is not a guarantee.”

Christy went to the Devil’s Playground parking lot and waited.

When he still wasn’t there an hour after the designated meeting time, her mind went to the worst-case scenario.

Gray found his way off of the rock and to a road where he flagged down a ranger to help him. He texted his wife a simple message, “Hey, I couldn’t make it. I’ll meet you at the toll-booth for Pikes.” When his wife picked him up that day, he hugged her. “It was one of the best hugs I’ve ever had,” Gray says. “I should never

leave a situation unresolved. Life is not a guarantee.”

Gray and his wife moved from Lakewood, Washington to Colorado Springs two years ago to “try a new city and maybe start a family,” and they quickly fell in love with it. “I always liked Colorado, the community. Colorado Springs is a good city. It’s home for us,” Gray says, though he admits that running at altitude is an adjustment. “I make sure I’m not pushing myself 100-percent all the time. There are some days when I think altitude is great, and some days I miss sea level.

Recovery takes longer at altitude.”

Not to worry though, as a foodie of sorts, Gray has perfected the ultimate recovery drink. His secret weapon: egg nog. “One winter, I just really looked at the ingredients. It’s sweet, for simple sugar replacement, and high in protein for muscle recovery,” Gray says. “It’s just right really. Well-balanced. Perfect.”

That is just the way Joseph Gray wants it to be.

Michelle Theall is a freelance writer and photographer and the former editor in chief of Alaska magazine.

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FISH TALES

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A GUIDE

WE GIVE YOU BETA ON WHERE AND HOW TO FLY FISH THE BEST SPOTS IN COLORADO THIS FALL—STRAIGHT FROM THE PEOPLE WHO KNOW THEM BEST.

by TYRA SUTAK

F

ish tales. You’ve heard plenty, but with more than 6,000 miles of rivers and streams and 322 miles of designated Gold Medal waters, those tall tales of tremendous fish coming out of the state of Colorado are (mostly) true. To really get the scoop on the places to find the biggest fish, the most gorgeous stretches of river and an all around good day on the water, we reached out to the professionals who know the rivers in this state best. These flyfishing guides have seen it all, fished it all and they are still willing to share some tips and tricks for the best fly fishing here in Colorado.

ROARING FORK RIVER GUIDE: RAPHAEL FASI, GONE FISHING COLORADO Fasi, a fly fishing guide in the Snowmass/Aspen area for the past five years, knows how to find the

photos courtesy GONE FISHING COLORADO

28

sweet spots on the river between Snowmass Creek and the town of Aspen. “Most of the the locations in this area are accessible along the Rio Grande Bike Trail (see page 11), so you can ride your bike up and down the trail and fish as you please. The Roaring Fork River is one of the last true freestone rivers in Colorado.

The structure of the river changes from pocket water to deep, slow runs, and really changes and transitions as it flows down the valley.” And according to Fasi, those pockets and runs are teeming with rainbow, brown, cutthroat and Snake River cutthroat Trout—the biggest ones holding in the deep runs—waiting for a prince nymph with the perfect drift. gonefishingcolorado.com

YAMPA RIVER GUIDE: JARRETT YAGER, BUCKING RAINBOW OUTFITTERS

“My favorite thing about fishing the Yampa is that there is always a chance that the next fish you catch could potentially be your new personal

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / SEPTEMBER 2 01 6

LIVING THE DAMN DREAM: GONE FISHING COLORADO GUIDE RAPHAEL FASI USES THE RIO GRANDE BIKE TRAIL TO ACCESS HIS FAVORITE HOLES ON ASPEN'S FAMED ROARING FORK.

record,” says Jarrett Yager, who’s been guiding on the river for six years. In Yager’s experience, catching trout that measure 30-plus inches in length is very common on the Yampa, with some fisherman occasionally reeling in frightening northern pike of 40-plus inches. To find the best holes, Yager suggests trying the tailwaters below Stagecoach Reservoir or dimply hitting up the public waters right in the town of Stamboat Springs.

“In the fall as the brown trout begin to spawn, the fishing on the Yampa only gets better. Focus on fishing the runs and drop offs where a lot of excess food is being pushed.” And be sure to add plenty of tricos, caddis flysand blue winged olives to your fly box this fall. buckingrainbow.com

BLUE RIVER

GUIDE: ANDREW PETERSEN, THE COLORADO ANGLER For longtime guide, Andrew Petersen (22-plus years guiding the Blue),

the best thing about fishing this popular water in the heart of Summit County is the striking landscape of the entire valley, away from the I-70 crowds. “On some stretches of the river, you really feel like you’re very far removed from the city.” But the fishing is good right under the bridge in front of the outlet stores just off I-70, too (just get there early.) “The town stretch of river and the Palmer Gulch area are fishing well right now, but some of the best fishing in the state is happening in Green Mountain Canyon on the lower section of the Blue.” For prime access to the sweet spots on this river, Petersen suggests heading out early in the week, in the early morning or early evening for some quiet time on the river. “Nymphs are always the best approach first, but caddis, green drakes, blue winged olives and pale morning dun flies work well, too.

Midge pupa and larva flies are also fishing well.” thecoloradoangler.com

11 MILES IN...

M Y F E E T A R E S AY I N G THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.

BIG THOMPSON RIVER

OPEN WIDE: BOOK A TRIP WITH FRONT RANGE ANGLERS TO THE PRIVATE WATERS OF BOXWOOD GULCH AND YOU ARE SURE TO CATCH HOGS. PLUS, BRIAN BENHAM (PICTURED HERE WITH A BEAST), THE CHEF AT BOULDER’S DISH GOURMET, SERVES UP AN IMPRESSIVE STREAMSIDE LUNCH.

Stephen Jacobs has been guiding on the Big Thompson River for 11 years, which means he witnessed the effects of the flood of 2013. “The Big Thompson has a good, healthy, self-sustaining trout population, even post-flood.” But to find the best fishing, Jacob says you’ll have to work for it. “If you’re willing to walk a mile, you’ll find a remote, more enjoyable experience,” he says— which is best in early April to May when the rainbow trout are spawning and feeling sassy. “When fishing the lower Thompson, the tailwater is very productive and best fished with dry flies in the summer. I personally like to find a spot the first five or six miles down into the canyon.” When fishing the upper Thompson in Rocky Mountain National Park, the guides at Kirks Flyshop saddle up horses and take pack llamas to remotes sites— some of the best found above Glacier Creek. Jacob’s fly box is usually stocked with ants, beetles, caddis and pale morning duns to reel in the rainbow, brown and brook trout in the river. kirksflyshop.com

BOXWOOD GULCH ON THE SOUTH PLATTE RIVER

GUIDE: STEPHEN JACOB, KIRKS FLYSHOP

B R I D G E R M I D BDry / WOMEN’S RIO RED

GUIDE: RANDY HICKS, ROCKY MOUNTAIN ANGLERS According to longtime guide, Randy Hicks, Boxwood Gulch is the place to go for an ego-stoking day on the river. “It’s all smiles. The fishing is so spectacular that we are able to really teach here, too, with success.” At least six species of fish can be found in the private waters of Boxwood Gulch, most weighing in at five pounds or heavier. “Pine squirrel leeches, copper johns, iron lotus, rainbow warriors, prince nymphs, girdle bugs and stoneflies all do well here. These fish are predators, larger fish looking for a big meal.” There are also stretches of public waters of the north fork of the South Platte, and Hicks says you’ll find the best ones downstream of Bailey towards the confluence of the South Platte proper. rockymtanglers.com

F E AT U R I N G :

Rest assured—and hike in comfort every time.

The Bridger Mid BDry, with Oboz’ BFit Deluxe insole, delivers exceptional support, fit and performance wherever your feet may wander.

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ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / SEPTEMBER 2 01 6

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E-MAIL Check if you would like to receive e-mail offers and news from us Mail-in Rebate Terms & Conditions: Limit one refund per household, or address. Mail-in submission only. Rebate applied to price paid and does not include tax. Maximum rebate value of $11.00. Rebate not payable at retail stores. Only valid in USA. Must be at least 18 years old. Fraudulent submission may result in prosecution. Please allow 8 weeks for delivery of refund check. Call 1-847-387-8721 to check refund status. © 2016 Mountain House

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Snow is in the air and it’s time to plan big for the coming winter. That’s right, you need to buy a season pass pronto. To that end, EO wants to point you in the direction of two of the best, most authentic resorts in Colorado: Loveland Ski Area and Crested Butte Mountain Resort. Get the details and join your tribe this winter!

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KIDS PASSES/DEALS: Child 6-14 is $179. Young Adult is 15-22 $289.

Both have all the benefits listed above. The Child (6-14) 3-Class Pass gives three full-day lessons with lunch and a season pass, all for just $345 WHEN ITS ON SALE: Passes go on sale starting August 25, 2016.

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PASS NAME: Peak Pass Plus PRICE: $899 PRIMARY MOUNTAINS INCLUDED: Crested Butte Mountain Resort, winter and summer OTHER MOUNTAINS PART OF PASS PROGRAM: Three days at Steamboat, three days at Copper or Winter Park, three free days at each Powder Alliance resort, three free days at Monarch (restricted dates), three days at Okemo and Mt. Sunapee in Vermont, three free days at Loveland, 50 percent off Purgatory and Powderhorn BLACKOUT DATES: None BONUS DEALS: Unlimited Adventure Park, 25 percent off zipline tours, 10 percent off culinary, 15 percent off rental and demo, 25 percent off Ski and Ride lessons, 20 percent off lodging, up to six discounted buddy tickets, and three days of biking at Trestle and Steamboat in the summer.

WHEN ITS ON SALE: On sale now until October 7. Then the price goes up.

WHERE/HOW CAN YOU BUY IT: Online at skicb.com/seasonpass or stop by sales locations throughout the Front Range this fall. Find locations at skicb.com/salesevents.

PROJECTED OPENING DAY: November 24, 2016

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S E P T E M B E R 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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GEAR

SPIN DIRT

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GIANT ANY ROAD COMAX

Cooler days are ideal for putting some serious miles down on those massive networks of rugged dirt roads on the Front Range.

This composite-frame steed handles the rough stuff with extra stand-over height and disc brakes, but the geometry still feels fine on pavement. $1,850; giant-bicycles.com

HIKE

FULL-ON FALL-SPORTS THE AIR IS CRISP AND CLEAN AND THE LEAVES ARE GOLDEN. IT’S TIME TO GET OUT ON THE TRAIL AND WATER WITH OUR FAVORITE HIGH-OUTPUT GEAR.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

SEE IT

ASPIRE CELEBRATED

Sick of your sunglasses breaking where the arms meet the lens? These slick shades use a sturdy-but-flexible hinge rather than screws to keep everything attached. Beyond that, Aspire builds its sunglasses with proprietary SDN-4 material that makes them surprisingly light, bendable and gives the brand the ability to create a wide range of styles. $290; aspireeyewear.com

LOOK THE PART

MERIDIAN LINE TEES

Climber and artist Jeremy Collins wanted to create a t-shirt company that espoused the way he engages with the world—mindful, impassioned, inspired, smart. Sure he illustrated these tees, but The Meridian Line is about more than art: The blend of 50-percent polyester, 25-percent rayon and 25-percent cotton in these shirts harnesses the best qualities of each fabric, and they are made right here in the U.S.A. $29; themeridianline.com

FISH

HOBIE I11S

Is it a SUP? A kayak? A paddle boat? The answer is a little bit of both, and the best damn fishing vehicle you will ever haul to the reservoir. The i11S uses Hobie's foot-operated MirageDrive with Glide Technology for quick locomotion (you can always paddle, too). The board has all the sleekness of a SUP paired with a comfy seat and rudder that give it the stability of a sit-on-top kayak. $1,999; hobiecat.com

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ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / SEPTEMBER 2 01 6

OBOZ SCAPEGOAT LOW

HEAR IT

BRAVEN 105

With the power to deliver your tunes for eight hours on a single charge, this active speaker is just the ticket for those who like to feel the beat when they head out for adventure. It's fully waterproof and fits in the palm of your hand (or straps to a pack or bike handlebars) and it still pumps out some sweet sound. $50; braven.com

Here's one shoe that can handle the full platter of fall activites. Oboz's tough, grippy, light Thru-hiker sole imparts the type of unencumbered durability serious hikers demand, whether they are scrambling up 14ers or clambering down into tight Utah slot canyons. $130; obozfootwear.com

CLIMB

LA SPORTIVA TARANTULA Hate to wear those torture instruments known as climbing shoes? The Tarantula is for you. The fit accomodates big, blocky toes and the Velcro straps make it easy to tighten and loosen in a flash when the pain sets in. $88; sportiva.com

BATTEN DOWN

FJALLRAVEN ABISKO ECO-SHELL

Swedish brand Fjallraven created a fluorocarbon-free weatherproofing treatment (not the case with the usual DWS, the treatment that makes precipitation to bead up and roll off the standard hard shell) for this 2.5-layer recycled polyester testament to sustainable innovation. While the jacket may not provide quite the same performance as more toxic models, that difference is negligible if you are not out in the wild for long periods of time. $400; fjallraven.us

PADDLE

BOARDWORKS SHUBU X ROCKET

RUN FAST

This inflatable SUP was designed for fitness, with a shape that contains the DNA of Boardworks racing boards, but it's got some added stabilty, so it's more than just fast. This SUP is versatile enough for any time on the water, whether you are training for a big event this fall or simply want to get out on some quiet water and enjoy the golden light of autumn. $1,199; boardworkssurf.com

HOKA ONE ONE SPEED INSTINCT

Here's the ideal weapon if you have plans for racking up some quick trail miles this fall. Weighing in at 8.4 ounces in a men's size 9, this kick employs Hoka One One's PRO2Lite technology, which keeps the heel nice and protected and gives you a lot of response in the forefoot, making for a very effective, comfortable gait over nasty terrain. Plus, the rocker here helps keep some spring in your step and the lugs stick to bare rock. $130; hokaoneone.com

RUN FAR

ALTRA LONE PEAK 3.0 NEOSHELL MID Meet the world's first mid trail runner. Utah based Altra-created this light (11.9 ounces!), super-stable baby for the demands of the Wasatch 100 trail ultra, but we think it's the perfect shoe for power hiking/ running 14ers, ridge traverses and other big, fast adventures up high in the Colorado peaks. A Polartec NeoShell exterior (no inner membrane) keeps out the wet while keeping things light. $160; altrarunning.com

BIKE TO BREW CLUB RIDE DEER ABBY

This may be a cycling jersey, with all the fabric performance qualities to keep you warm and wick sweat on a ride, but it also looks and wears so well we have used it for everything from backpacking to post-ride barhopping. $60; clubrideapparel.com

PACK IT IN

MOUNTAINSMITH MAYHEM 45 At a roomy 45 liters, this well balanced top loader can do it all. The spacious inner compartment sucks up all the rope and rack gear you need for a day at the crags or for minimalist overnighters up in the peaks. And the cush suspension system that makes it feel as if you are hauling a lighter load.$160; mountainsmith.com

ROCK SINGLETRACK ALCHEMY ARKTOS

We love to support local brands and Denver-based Alchemy has been crafting some mighty fine road bikes. This year, they impressed us even more with this singletrack machine that has all the chops to take on enduro races or just head out for some trail time with your bros. With a dual-link Sine suspension, it climbs remarkably well for a six-inch travel bike. And style?

The bold colors and custom options will make sure you stand out on the trail. $3,799; alchemybicycles.com S E P T E M B E R 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

33

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ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / SEPTEMBER 2 01 6

Sponsored By:

HEAR THIS

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PLAYING ON: THE BAND LOST INSTRUMENTS, COSTUMES AND UNRECORDED LYRICS IN THE FIRE.

ELEPHANT SURVIVAL

IN JUNE, ELEPHANT REVIVAL'S TOUR BUS WENT UP IN FLAMES. WHILE THE COLORADO-BASED BAND MAY HAVE LOST THEIR HOME ON THE ROAD, THE DISASTER COULDN’T TOUCH THEIR HEARTS.

by PATTY MALESH

In our eternal flames and fire/ Our bodies wax and wane/ And it goes on and on, it goes.

The day I sat down to talk with Elephant Revival stringman Dan Rodriguez, the bluebird Colorado sky showed a touch of grey. It was a haunting reminder that the Cold Springs fire was still burning and threatened the gypsy-folk-rock band’s hometown of Nederland. It seemed fitting. After all, I was there to talk fire.

On the morning of June 16, Elephant Revival’s tour bus burst into flames in Hickory, North Carolina, with them asleep inside.

The band (Bonnie Paine, Bridget Law, Charlie Rose, Dango Rose and Dan Rodriguez), their tour manager, and bus driver all escaped within seconds but the bus, which had been on its way to being retrofitted into the dream tour machine, was a total loss.

And so were so many of the quintet’s hallmark treasures—Bridget’s childhood violin and her not-yet-onthe-insurance-policy big girl violin, Dan’s boutique guitar handmade

by Jayson Bowerman in Oregon, Bonnie’s menagerie (stompbox, electric cello and bow and signature photo courtesy LISA SICILIANO/ UNITED INTERESTS

washboard), Dango’s mandolin and all the fashions for their show, from vintage dresses to merch.

Dan recounted the list of potential “insurables” stoically. He had repeated it too many times to nonmusicians more concerned with the kind of amps that start fires rather than magnify sound. When he spoke of losing Bonnie’s and his songwriting journals, filled with reflections and ambitions, he softened. And saddened.

Chisel the stone/ Inward there you go.

The quick, two-show trip to Hickory then Decatur, Georgia was intended as foreplay for summer festival season and a fall tour to follow. Enlivened by the release of their sixth studio album, “Petals,” in April and their first Headliner performance at Red Rocks Amphitheater in May, the summer promised a full-blown love affair. Since the fire, it has felt much more like a hard-labor birth, according to Rodriquez. Until 18 months ago, the band had always bounced ragged from airport to hotel on down the line. Then, a decade into their signature act, the tour bus had offered them a home on the road.

“A bus eliminates a lot of variables,” Dan said just before talking up the benefits of regular sleep schedules, always playing with their own gear, getting to know each town prior to each show, their traveling library, probiotics and roasting their own coffee beans given to them raw by a Colorado friend. The bus also spoke to their success as artists, “We pay salaries, we feed people, including ourselves.

We owned a tour bus and we were hitting our stride.” The logistics and psychology of loss tug on this tribe of troubadours. This much is clear in the lyricist's retelling of their earlymorning, half-clothed, half-asleep saga of combustion and commotion.

No one said this would be easy now/ But you’ve gotta keep moving somehow.

Lament has no place on stage and Elephant Revival is well suited for their trade. Fire is a fan of folk music, it seems. Rodriquez lights and lightens up when he shares strories about Arlo Guthrie’s family history and tragic fires. That familiarity with tragedy is no doubt the reason Arlo offered the revivalists his touring bus to use through October. He was not the only one to support the band. Right after the fire in North Carolina, the community rose up to lend its support: Red Cross gift cards, borrowed instruments and a Mill full of fans ignited by Elephant Revival's songs about death and rebirth came together to grow hope out of ash.

The setlist for that “Music in the Mill” show drew heavily from “Petals.” Elephant Revival’s sound has always bordered on angelic, but this most recent album shows them to be a bit fey as well. While the aquatic-soaked nature of “Petals” now seems awkwardly ironic, the themes of death and rebirth foreshadow the road ahead. Left without their trappings of success, the band is learning to crawl around familiar territory—they are remembering, relearning, reinventing their love of music without the static of stuff.

But then I remember/ And when I remember/ It seems that I become more of what I remember.

Before I leave, we drop by Dan's house to grab a copy of “Petals.”

Bonnie is there, exactly where I expected her to nest, behind a cello in the sunroom birthing a melody.

Dan has already forgotten his role as interviewee and is back to thinking and speaking in lyrics. There’s a new fire burning, but even the smoke in the sky has turned to sunshine and whimsy. “This has pulled us back into that humility, but with wisdom. All we have is the music again. That’s the medicine. Always has been.”

Lyrics from Elephant Revival’s recently released “Petals,” available for purchase on iTunes and streaming on Spotify, Google Music, and Amazon Prime. Fall tour dates: elephantrevival.com/tour/

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THE ROAD

PEDAL FOR THE SKY A CYCLIST ON “THE 1974 FORD F150 OF MOUNTAIN BIKES” DOES BATTLE WITH A TEXAS-SIZED FLOTILLA OF FJ’S UP IN THE HIGH MAJESTY OF THE SAN JUANS. words and images by BLAKE GORDON

I

t was right around 10:30 a.m. when the afternoon storm clouds caught our attention. We were not long into our first big climb over Engineer Pass and it was clear this wasn't going to be the “long slow bike ride” I told Randy I was looking forward to. Granted, you can only go so fast up 12,500-foot mountain passes when pedaling a bike fully loaded with water, food, clothing and camping gear for three days.

We were embarking on our mostly above treeline bikepacking tour primarily along the renowned 36

MONSOON SEASON: ONE SURE WAY TO MAKE A TOUGH RIDE EVEN TOUGHER? TOSS IN SOME BAD WEATHER.

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Alpine Loop—which the Colorado Department of Transportation dubs “demanding” for those driving fourwheel drive vehicles—between Lake City and Silverton on the backend of the first monsoon storm system of the summer. The clouds came in at a crawl and they were moving out just as slow, putting on a dramatic show and bringing some cold rain over the course of a week to Colorado.

“So what's our lightning contingency plan?” I asked, watching electricity illuminate the dark space between the peaks of mountains above. There was a long pause. Yep, there was no contingency plan. We climbed steadily toward Engineer Pass with an eye on the sky. Then my chain broke.

R

andy had invited me to join in on this trip with his roommate Tyler, who planned out the logistics. Any excuse to spend time in the San Juans was good enough for me, but the last self-supported bike trip I'd done was a decade ago when I joined two brothers and another

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / SEPTEMBER 2 01 6

“‘We had to show those Texans how we have fun in Colorado,’ Randy said later.” friend for several months on their transcontinental tour of the PanAmerican highway. We called it “bike touring” then and I just had to see what “bikepacking” was all about.

Besides, my friend Kevin Passmore at Defiant Packs makes some of the best bikepacking bags out there and gladly lent me a few to use on the trip.

I also had my trusty Surly Karate Monkey—a fully-rigid machine that will climb with the best of them and descend as fast as your skills allow (and body can handle). Cheap and dependable (though still needing some occasional maintenance), it's the 1974 Ford F150 of mountain bikes.

Randy was embarking on the maiden ride of a bike purpose-built for our current San Juans endeavor.

I recall reading these words a long time ago as a student in a book about some of the greatest cities in the

world: “Like a lover, you only have one chance to explore a place for the first time.” The author enjoyed setting out blind into a city and allowing nothing but that raw exploration to inform his first understandings of a place. There was time for research and preparation later.

It stuck with me both as a profound statement and as a philosophical basis for being underprepared. And maybe I should've at least done some seasonal maintenance on my bike prior to our trip. I was riding on last year's well used drivetrain, which had held up fine during the few rides I'd done this summer, but the additional force of pedaling a loaded bike was too much for it. I took the broken links out, relinked the chain and told myself I needed to stay mindful of those low gears and not push them too hard. I only had so much chain left and a lot of dirt and uphill to go. e topped out on Engineer Pass to a small parking lot of 4x4s and ATVs manned mostly by out-of-state tourists who were bundled up against the cool

W

alpine air and dumbfounded we would ride our bikes up something so drivable. Someone came over and snapped a picture. I hadn't yet put a shirt on—the cool air suited me fine.

After seeing the third convoy of beautiful modified Toyota FJs chug by, I stopped to ask how many rigs were out and about for the national summit, which was taking place right here, right now. “About 350, but only 300 of them are FJs. A few Tacomas and 4Runners snuck in.”

I figured then that we'd be seeing a few more rigs on our tour. And that we did. There were all kinds of 4x4s, ATVs, dirt bikes and even a few fully built rock crawlers. The roads we were on weren't particularly technical, but the exposure, terrain, and general nature of the roads were.

They certainly made a man from Michigan—his family fastened in the back—pause at the last hairpin before a the top of pass and exclaim expletives as I pedaled up, before resigning to “Well, I guess I just have to go for it.”

It's that kind of terrain in the San Juans. And despite the heavy motorized traffic of a summer weekend on one of the most celebrated scenic backcountry routes in the country, it made all the uphill pedaling and pushing of our bikes well worth it. Every pedal stroke to higher ground, every corner we turned, every pass we gutted up and over revealed some of the most incredible terrain in the lower 48.

"We had to show those Texans how we have fun in Colorado,” Randy said later.

W

e looked out across a sea of mountains and small network of roads, some active and some remnants from the mining area, clinging to steep mountainsides and seeming to go nowhere. These roads are ripe for skyriding—surely the next evolution in biking. We descended down towards Silverton, stopping for a snack near a large flock of sheep and soon after taking shelter in an abandoned cabin in Animas Forks as the rains finally came.

When they let up enough, we continued our descent past more mining ruins and arrived in sunshine to a much needed meal in Silverton.

After dinner, we headed out of town to the upper reaches of the Animas River and camped for the night.

The next day, we pushed further up the valley past an incredible array of mining history, including the site of last year's blowout at Gold King Mine. Topping out over Hurricane Pass we continued onto to California Pass and soon looked down into the sublime California Gulch. The weather was holding and looking favorable. The FJs were somewhere else. We had one more pass in our itinerary.

After coasting down through California Gulch, we made our way up our final ascent to Cinnamon Pass. We surveyed threatening clouds and rolled into a continuous 20-mile descent with a shocking lack of traffic down to Lake City.

There's only one way to the top and that's with a lofty vision and one small pedal stroke (or step) after another. At least that's what I kept telling myself during those wonderful long slow uphills watching Randy in the lead on his nice new bike.

WELCOME SHELTER: THE CREW WAITED OUT A DOWNPOUR IN ONE OF THOSE OLD, ABANDONED CABINS THAT DOT THE SAN JUANS.

Blake Gordon is a photographer living in Carbondale earning his backcountry ski bum merit badge. He regularly photographs for the Nature Conservancy and other national publications. blakegordon.com

“I took the broken links out, relinked the chain and told myself I needed to stay mindful of those low gears and not push them too hard.”

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ELWAYVILLE

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IN PRAISE OF FALL COUNTING THE WAYS THIS SEASON MAKES AN OUTDOOR- AND FOOTBALLLOVING HEART PUMP FASTER.

by PETER KRAY

I

n “The Waste Land,” one of the most important poems of the twentieth century, T.S. Eliot famously wrote, “April is the cruelest month.” I wonder what he would think of fall in the Rockies— especially September and October.

If the weather-sensitive heart of the storied poet could get so weary over the prospect of longer days and blooming meadows, I imagine he might find it glorious to be traveling the high country when every view resonates with the crackling contrast of golden leaves and lingering light set against the backdrop of sentinel peaks all somber gray.

An even more soul-stirring annual rite than Christmas or the Fourth of July, fall provides the absolute best weather for everything outdoors, especially if you love to bike, fish or run. How do I love you Colorado autumn? In honor of Hall of Fame llustration by KEVIN HOWDESHELL / kevincredible.com

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quarterback John Elway, the Duke of Denver, let me count seven of my most favorite ways.

THERE’S MAGIC IN THE AIR: The tilting axis of the earth

really does result in the most startling light of the year. The lengthening shadows and ubiquitous glow create a mix of atmospheric clarity that can absolutely help redefine your sense of soul. And there’s that first cold snap in the evening. And the way you want each stand of sunlight to linger just a little longer.

THE TOURISTS HAVE GONE HOME: Like skiing

A-Basin or Breckenridge into early May, the entire breadth of fall feels like “locals day” to me. Schools are back in session, vacation days are burned, and suddenly Coloradoans have a lot more room to roam on I-70, on the river and on the trail.

THE CLOCK IS TICKING:

Everything takes on a little more drama with the accelerating sunsets of fall. More mist is rising on the water. Trail runs get faster. And one wrong turn in the backcountry can quickly turn an afternoon bike ride or speed hike into an epic experience right away. Oh, and there’s always that chance of early snow!

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FOOTBALL: Yeah, I know it’s

not the most “immersive” outdoor activity, but the name of this column is “Elwayville,” after all. With a freaking World Championship Super Bowl ring in the Broncos’ back pocket and Peyton “Old Bones” Manning happily put out to pasture, there's a little more relaxed sense of watching the new team take shape than ever before. And we can now breath a sigh of relief because Von Miller is ready to go!

BEER: Bavaria invented Oktoberfest (which takes place primarily in September) to honor a royal wedding, and Germans across the world kept the world’s greatest brewfest going for more than two centuries because there really is no better time of year for beer. The crops are in. The wood is all cut. The season passes have been purchased.

You’re in your best summer shape.

And you live in Colorado, which has steadily built a reputation for brewing world-class beer. Might as well enjoy a pint in the cool mountain air.

HARVEST: Speaking of the

crops coming in, and as someone with a significant sweet spot for Southern Colorado, this is also the best time of year to pick some Palisade peaches, get your elk tag and stock up on some of the hot green chiles coming up

from New Mexico. A steaming bowl of elk green chile stew and a slice of fresh peach pie sounds very good right now.

SKI SEASON IS RIGHT AROUND THE CORNER:

Or as I call it: “The Real Season.” In September everybody starts finalizing their kit, checking long-range weather forecasts, and getting the snow tires on in anticipation of that first flurry of snowflakes to start to fall. Early season turns can be some of the best—because you’ve waited so long, and also as a little buffer against the panic of trying to score mid-season powder when the crowds return. I’ve heard it’s going to be a great winter.

Let the anticipation begin!

Here’s hoping you all enjoy the last of the warm days and make the most of this amazing time of year in the Rocky Mountains. As we make the long turn into winter, be sure and check out this column as well as more than seven years of Elwayville online at ElevationOutdoors.com where you can also share your favorite way to make the most of fall.

—Elevation Outdoors editor-at-large Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing.

The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” Don’t believe the hype?

You can buy it here: bit.ly/godofskiing

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