Elevation Outdoors October 2016 by Summit Publishing

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THE

PERFECT

WINTER YOUR KEY TO

COLORADO RESORTS ERIC LARSEN ON THE END OF ICE

BEST GEAR FOR

A NEW SEASON WHO NEEDS THE LIFT?

EARN TURNS IN THE AREA

SURVIVING CANCER,

SKIING TOPLESS

CONTENTS

October 2016 , GOLDEN GTON AVEGATE.COM IN H S A W 1313 82 | BENT (303) 271 93

UPHILL ENCHANTMENT: THERE'S A NEW LIFT, BUT STILL PLENTY OF HIKING AT TAOS. SEE PG 17

ION

TINAT S E D S ’ O D RA

COLO

P O H S Y R T COUN

K 20 YEARS BAC OVER FOR

WILL S SILVER SNEAK COULOIR, BUFFALO MOUNTAIN PHOTO BILL J

DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

7 EDITOR’S LETTER

25 OUTDOOR A-HOLES

Native people speak truth to power when it comes to our lands and water.

You know them. They are better than you, or at least they make sure to tell you that. They lead a #blissed life. They were here before you thought it was cool. Who knows? You might even be one of them. Musings by Rachel Walker. #flashfashion by Andrew Bydlon/Caveman Collective.

8 QUICK HITS Stay safe in the backcountry, explore Utah slot canyons, Banff and more!

12 FLASHPOINT Why are more and more resorts embracing uphill skiing?

17 HOT SPOT Taos is calling. We have the details.

29 THE COLORADO RESORT HOT LIST Mark your calendar and ready that bucket list. You will want to make room for these Colorado cant-misses.

18 THE TRAIL Use the ViewRanger app to backpack in the red rock of Monument Canyon.

DEMO BIKES ON SALE NOW!

44 RESORT GEAR

All the stats on snow and ice

From skis and boards to heated gloves and—um, well—Douchebags, we have the best new consumerist fetish items for a new winter season.

23 STRAIGHT TALK

photo above by LIAM DORAN

21 NUMEROLOGY

Eric Larsen on the melting North Pole

47 HEAR THIS Work on your costume and get in the know—The Holler!ween is here!

48 THE ROAD A cancer survivor keeps doing what she wants to do, topless, in the Tetons.

50 ELWAYVILLE Trump, dogs and Vail buys Whistler.

WANT MORE? CATC H

U P ON PAST ISSU ES, YOU R FAVORITE B LOG G E RS A N D DAILY ON LIN E-ON LY CON TEN T AT ElevationOutdoors.com

COLORADO’S DESTINATION

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ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

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10.16

WHAT'S YOUR PERFECT SKI/SNOWBOARD DAY? ElevationOutdoors.com EDITORIAL ED ITOR-IN -CH IEF

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com MA N AG IN G ED ITOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR ED ITOR

CHRIS KASSAR

chris@elevationoutdoors.com IN TERN

EMILY GALLEGOS

play@elevationoutdoors.com C ON TRIBUTIN G ED ITORS

AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, JAYME MOYE, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN ED ITOR-AT-LARG E

PETER KRAY

C ON TRIBUTIN G WRITERS

JEF BLUMENFELD, KIM FULLER, MATT HART, JON JAY, JORDAN MARTINDELL, PATTY MALESH, ELIZABETH MILLER, DINA MISHEV, RACHEL WALKER, MELANIE WONG ART + PRODUCTION MEGAN JORDAN

A RT D IREC TOR

megan@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR D ESIG N ER

LAUREN WALKER

lauren@elevationoutdoors.com G RA PH IC D ESIG N ER

PAIGELEE CHANCELLOR

paigelee@elevationoutdoors.com

ADVERTISING + BUSINESS BLAKE DEMASO

PR ESID EN T

blake@elevationoutdoors.com PU BLISH ER

ELIZABETH O’CONNELL

elizabeth@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

MARTHA EVANS

martha@elevationoutdoors.com AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

BEN YOUNG

ben@elevationoutdoors.com

BU SIN ESS MAN AG ER

MELISSA GESSLER

melissa@elevationoutdoors.com CIRC U LATION MA N AG ER

HANNAH COOPER

hcooper@elevationoutdoors.com

DIGITAL MEDIA CRAIG SNODGRASS

ON LIN E D IR EC TOR

craig@elevationoutdoors.com D IG ITA L MA N AG ER

TYRA SUTAK

tyra@elevationoutdoors.com

E L E VAT I O N OU T D O O R S M AG A Z I N E

SUMMIT

PUBLISHING

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN A white haze of deep snow, laughs, friends and beer.

ELIZABETH O'CONNELL Staying in Mt. Crested Butte and walking to the lift gets the day started off right.

CAMERON MARTINDELL Endless loops of steep and deep up in the backcountry with a warm hut, cabin or yurt.

CHRIS KASSAR A couple peaceful dawn patrol runs in knee-deep powder at the pass with my pup, followed by meeting up with friends for first chair and a gigglefilled face shots at Monarch.

DINA MISHEV Any Wednesday between January 1 and late March, when I ski all day with five friends and the awesomest instructor at JHMR. I swear after these lesson days I'm a better skier

MATT HART I love big-objective days and I prefer to earn my turns, so, I'll take any day that involves a cool peak and new terrain with either a technically difficult descent or gag-inducing powder.

RACHEL WALKER An early start, fresh snow, a 2-3-hour skin up a beautiful mountain, delicious snacks and a thermos of hot cocoa, and first tracks on the downhill.

JON JAY Getting up with the sun, going for a good tour to a secret pow stash, spending the afternoon lapping the lift with friends and ending it all with cold beers at the car.

PETER KRAY Today!

PRINTED ON RECYCLED NEWSPRINT WITH 100% POST-CONSUMER CONTENT

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

photos by MARK GOING/COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR, ROBBIE O'CONNELL, COURTESY CAMERON MARTINDELL, COURTESY CHRIS KASSAR, JULIA VANDENOVER, COURTESY MATT HART, CRYSTAL SAGAN, JEFF WALKER, COURTESY PETER KRAY

CONTRIBUTORS

EDITOR’S LETTER

10 .16

PROTECTOR: TRIBES ARE SPEAKING OUT FOR THE LAND IN NORTH DAKOTA. photo by AP PHOTO/JAMES MACPHERSON

NATIVE RIGHTS The message has been very clear: “We're protectors. We're not protestors.” It's the message that Native American people opposed to the building of the $3.8 billion Dakota Access pipeline planned to stretch from the Bakken oilfields in North Dakota to Illinois have made very clear over the past several months. The proposed pipeline would run within a half mile of the Standing Rock Reservation and the tribe initially voiced concerns that not only would it disrupt sacred sites, it would also threaten the lifeblood of their comunity, the Missouri River. The pipeline, which is 60-percent complete, will run under the river bed, but that's no guarantee it would be safe. In 2015, for example, the Exxon Silvertip Pipeline broke under the Yellowstone River, dumping 40,000 gallons of crude oil into the longest free-flowing river left in the lower 48 states. The tribes concerns were ignored. Which has been standard operating procedure for the way the U.S. government and realted business interests have dealt with native people ever since Europeans landed on the East Coast and began a process that wiped the tribes who lived there out of existence. Throughout the history of the West, the pattern has been to move indigenous people away from their sacred homelands whenever valuable resources have been found on them. Take South Dakota's Black Hills, one of the most important spiritual sites to the Lakota people. The place was guaranteed to them in treaties that were summarily ignored when gold prospectors headed there in 1874. The people of the Standing Rock reservation decided that they are not going to let this history continue. They have stood up against the bulldozers tearing through the land. The response against them has been brutal: arrests, private security releasing dogs on them, courts ignoring their requests. But that has only emboldened more Native Americans from across North America to come and join them. They have protested peacefully as a wide gathering of united tribes never before seen in history speaking out for their deepest spiritual and sovereign beliefs. They have also made one thing clear. They are united in a belief that the land and water have rights. Their cause runs deeper than the usual protests. “We're protectors. We're not protestors,” said Daniel T'seleie, who was arrested for handcuffing himself to a fence. “It's not a protest camp, it's a camp and it's a gathering for protectors, for people who are here to protect the land, protect the water, protect the sacred.” Their efforts have slowed the construction of the pipeline, for now. But can they stop it with so much money and oil involved? Native concerns in general have been trampled for far too long, not to mention the continued health of the land they want to protect. But this is different. This is a united voice. And it's time we all start to listen and speak up as protectors of the land and water that is central to everything we are. O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

QUICK HITS

10.16

TECHNOLOGY ALPINE LABS PULSE Photographers ranging from pros to beginner are going to love how easy the new Pulse remote camera controller is to use to make beautiful images and timelapse videos. Mounted on the flash shoe, Pulse gives your smartphone control over your camera from 100 feet away. $89 | alpinelaboratories.com

REALLY EARN IT: GET OUT, BUT STAY SAFE. photo by CAMERON L. MARTINDELL / OFFYONDER.COM

GEAR WE LOVE ICEMULE CLASSIC COOLER Cold bevies are key and IceMule makes it easy to tote a cooler around full of your favorite drinks. It’s basically an insulated dry bag with a strap—simple and brilliant. Available in various sizes. $50–$70 | icemulecooler.com

BOOKS VALLEY WALLS Only a few can remember, and even those who are there now can hardly imagine, what it was like to pioneer those first routes up the big walls of Yosemite. In Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite, Glen Denny tells it like it was. $19 | yosemiteconservancy.org

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

SAFETY, SAFETY, SAFETY LISTEN UP BACKCOUNTRY VETS AND NEWBIES ALIKE: UNTOUCHED POWDER IS PURE BLISS, BUT DO NOT BECOME ANOTHER VICTIM WHEN YOU GO SEEKING IT. Driving up Loveland Pass on my way to meet friends at A-Basin, I gave a group of snowboarders a ride for another lap. “How are the avy conditions?” I asked the one closest to the rear window of my pickup as they loaded up. “Great, super soft up there, man,” he replied, pulling a silver can from his otherwise empty backpack. “Did you check the avalanche forecast?” I asked, realizing there wasn’t a shovel in his pack. “Huh? Yeah, the weather forecast is good, bro, more snow coming.” He sipped the beer and passed it to another. I realized he didn’t know what forecast I was talking about, so the rest of the drive stayed quiet as I questioned my decision to enable these guys to take another lap. I dropped the crew off, yelled “stay safe guys!” and spent the rest of the day wondering if they had the slightest idea how to follow my advice. Since the release of the Marker Duke ten years ago, there has been a noticeably consistent rise in the number of backcountry users. With this increased traffic beyond the snow-safety boundaries of a ski area, one can’t help but wonder how many backcountry travelers actually took the time to take an avalanche safety course. I sat down with Jim Donovan, the executive director of the Silverton Avalanche School (avyschool. com), and asked him about the organization and his recommendations to those who are looking to start or continue their avalanche education. As the director of the oldest continuously operating avalanche school in the country, Donovan carries a wealth of knowledge about both the technical aspects of snow safety, and what to look for in any avalanche education

class. “For starters, make sure your instructor or instructing organization is certified by the American Avalanche Association (americanavalancheassociation.org),” Donovan says. The AAA oversees and certifies snow safety instructors, ensuring the lessons you learn feature the most current snow science standard. Don't rely on outdated training: If you took a Level 1 course more than five years ago but don’t have the resources for a Level 2 course, Donovan recommends one of the one- or two-day refreshers offered by many AAA-certified organizations and instructors. Hiring a guide for a private refresher might pair well with the first day of the hut trip you have planned this winter. Don’t have time for a full course before you take your first trip beyond the ski area gates? “Check out Know Before You Go (kbyg.org), an online avalanche awareness video, as an absolute minimum,” Donovan says. This video, combined with basic avalanche awareness courses offered by organizations such as Friends of Berthoud Pass (berthoudpass.org), provides an excellent introduction to staying safe in avalanche terrain. There were no reported incidents that day on Loveland Pass when I gave the snowboard bros a ride, so my worst fears did not come true. But hopefully, more people in Colorado will invest in their education before investing too much in the latest and greatest backcountry travel equipment, alleviating some of the safety concerns that have grown with the number of users. —Jon Jay

PLAY THE SLOTS THE TIME IS NOW TO HIKE, SCRAMBLE AND RAPPEL INTO THE DEEPEST (AND MOST FUN) CANYONS IN SOUTHEASTERN UTAH. While many visitors to Utah are checking off the state’s five national parks and joining the crowds for an Instagram shot of the most iconic views, those

who venture into Utah’s secluded backcountry canyons can discover an entirely different world. These hidden slots, carved by water and erosion, can be as narrow as just a few feet, but plunge hundreds of feet into the earth. Fall and spring are ideal times to discover these natural wonders. “Canyoneering picks up where hiking leaves off,” says Carl Dec, owner of Moab’s Red River Adventures (redriveradventures. com/utah-canyoneering). “You use ropes, scramble or swim. There are beginner routes that you can just hike into, but for many slots, you also need to know how to rig rappels and put in anchors. It’s an incredible way to slow down and really immerse yourself in what the attraction of this area is in the first place.” FOR STARTERS Within 15 minutes of Moab, you’ll find a handful of intermediate routes where you can get your feet wet. Morning Glory and Chamisa Canyon both are 2.5- to 3- miles long and feature two short rappels, some scrambling, water and beautiful natural features. Drive an hour away just outside Capitol Reef National Park for a number of less technical, but equally spectacular canyons. We recommend Cottonwood Wash, a route that starts in a seemingly mundane dry riverbed and narrows into a canyon awash with streaks of color. Over the next three miles, you’ll encounter boulder

SQUEEZE BOX: THE NARROWS IN UTAH'S ZION NATIONAL PARK DOESN'T REQUIRE MUCH TECHNICAL SKILL, BUT IT IS 16 MILES LONG, AND THE TRIP DOWN IT INVOLVES NAVIGATING SLIPPERY ROCKS, HIKING AND MAYBE EVEN SOME SWIMMING. photo courtesy of KANAB COUNTY UTAH OFFICE OF TOURISM

jams and short pools of water. Those who make it past one particularly frigid pool will reach an impassable dryfall—this spot marks the end of the canyon. GET DEEPER If you have more experience, venture to Zion National Park, an area that boasts a dense population of slot canyons. Among the most famous canyons in the park are the 16-milelong Narrows, and the Subway, an 11-mile route that includes rappels, down-climbing and some swimming. Outside the park, exploration opportunities are endless. Nick Smith of guiding company Seldom Seen Adventures (seldomseenadventures. net) has made a hobby of discovering new slot canyons in the Zion area. “Every year we find canyons that haven’t been descended before,” says Smith. “For me, canyoneering is about the ability to get deeper into the backcountry. Ropes and equipment are a way to get to places we couldn’t go otherwise.” Don’t have the technical skills? A guide can help you explore safely, accommodate families and know the beta on less-traveled routes. —Melanie Wong O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

QUICK HITS

10 .16

FRISCO, COLORADO RIGHT OFF I-70, FRISCO HAS MANAGED TO HOLD ON TO ITS SMALL TOWN FEEL—AND THERE’S PLENTY OF BIG-TIME ADVENTURE ON THE NEARBY SLOPES. EAT For pre-ski breakfast and a great cup of joe, head to Bread + Salt (breadandsaltfrisco.com)—it's about as hipster as Frisco gets. The fare is a modern take on diner food, with a dose of southwest flavor. For one of the most memorable meals of your life, make reservations with Two Below Zero (dinnersleighrides. com). Two Below hauls guests (in a horse drawn sleigh) to a warm, tented dining experience, complete with live music.

SLEEP Hotels rooms can be cramped and uncomfortable for large groups, families or extended stays, so book yourself a spacious condo through Summit Mountain Rentals (summitrentals.com). Their properties can be tailored to suit your specific needs and all come equipped with every detail. With ample room, excellent locations, and multiple floors, these condos provide the space 10

SNUGGLE IN: SKIP THE SCENE. FRISCO MAKES THE IDEAL BASE FOR SOME SERIOUS SUMMIT COUNTY PLAY TIME. photo by TODD POWELL

you need to make the most of your down time off the mountain. They also come with a non-resort price tag—definitely more bang for your buck. No matter, it's worth it just to avoid the traffic on I-70.

PLAY If hitting the slopes is your goal, Frisco is just a stone’s throw from Copper, Breckenridge, Keystone, and is within striking distance of Vail and Beaver Creek. If you are looking for a unique off-slope experience, sign up for a class at Gatherhouse (gatherhouse.wordpress.com). Owner and artist John Hudnut will guide you through the graceful and complex art of glassblowing: You can make an ornament, trinket, tumbler and more. He's a warm and quirky character whose solid confidence and humility add up to give you a breadth of knowledge and deep respect for handblown glass—an unexpected and artistic adventure. If you are bookish, head to Next Page Books and Nosh (nextpagebooks.com), one of the few bookstore/cafes left in Colorado and enjoy some down time with your favorite author and a snack. —Jordan Martindell

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LOCAL HERO: ALFRED MCLAREN OVER 80 YEARS OLD AND STILL FULL SPEED AHEAD! Eighty-four-year-old Captain Alfred S. McLaren, USN (Ret.), Ph.D., is the Indiana Jones of the sea—a veritable Captain Nemo more at home in the depths of the ocean than he is landlocked at 8,000 feet where he lives in the mountains between Boulder and Nederland. A former nuclear attack submarine officer and the veteran of more than 20 Cold War submarine

operations, he and his crew of the USS Seadragon completed the first submerged transit of the Northwest Passage, during which time they played the first baseball game at the North Pole, according to his book Silent and Unseen: On Patrol in Three Cold War Attack Submarines (U.S. Naval Institute Press, 2015). Later, as commander of the USS Queenfish, he led a North Pole expedition that completed the first under ice survey of the entire Siberian Continental Shelf. Now at an age when most retired Navy veterans are content to hang up their life jackets, McLaren, a former research and teaching professor at the University of Colorado, is "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead,” planning a variety of new projects. He's currently working on a third book covering his command of the USS Queenfish from 1969 to 1973, and another book about his expeditions to the Titanic and the German battleship the Bismarck. “Retirement isn’t in my vocabulary. There’s still too much I want to achieve. I am still thoroughly enjoying the rich smorgasbord of life.” —Jeff Blumenfeld

CANADA CALLING SKIBIG3 LIFT TICKET OFFERS ACCESS TO BANFF’S THREE SKI AND SNOWBOARD RESORTS. It's the season to cross Alberta off of your winter bucket list. The three ski resorts located in Canada's Banff National Park offer mind-blowing views, not to mention 7,700 acres of varied skiable terrain. Lake Louise Ski Resort, Sunshine Village and Mount Norquay all feature beginner slopes and big mountain bowls, as well as very accessible out-of-bounds options. And it's all just a short flight from Denver. What makes it so special? As Dan Markham, director of brand and communications for Lake Louise Ski Resort, explained during at Temple Lodge on the mountain this past January, “It’s rare to have a ski resort in a protected national park to begin with,” and it’s true. The three resorts are all located within the park, which means the ski terrain, adjacent towns and surrounding wilderness are not in danger of being overdeveloped.

“Everything is protected, nothing’s gonna change,” said Markham. “I think it’s that very untouched kind of environment, a very protected kind of environment, that makes it such a grand and spectacular place to ski.” The terrain at each of the three ski areas caters to all skiers and snowboarders—beginner to expert— although each has its own stand-out aspects: Norquay is the closest to the town of Banff and caters well to families, with expansive views from spots like the Cliffhouse Bistro. Lake Louise is the largest with 4,200 skiable acres, boasting long runs, fun glades, remote bowls, steep chutes and breathtaking mountainscapes. Sunshine built new mid-mountain accommodations at Sunshine Mountain Lodge and some extreme in-bounds terrain like Delirium Dive for those seeking an adrenaline. Educated backcountry skiers and riders can seek out their own lines, accessible from the ski areas and the popular Icefields Parkway, or check out trips available through heli-ski companies like Canadian Mountain Holidays (canadianmountainholidays.com).

The town of Banff and small village of Lake Louise are worth their own visits, and there are two iconic hotels in both. The historic chateau located on Lake Louise is a resort that rivals any mountain property, sitting right on the edge of its big and beautiful namesake— frozen and dreamy in the winter for ice skating under the stars. After a day on the slopes, plan to soothe muscles with an apres-ski stop at the Fairmont Banff Springs Willow Stream Spa (fairmont.com/ banff-springs/willow-stream). Spa treatments there seem as royal as the property looks and feels—styled after a Scottish Baronial Castle. Before

heading to dinner at Park Distillery (parkdistillery.com) downtown, soak in the indoor and outdoor pools that overlook untouched wilderness. Besides putting you on the lifts at all three resorts, a SkiBig3 lift pass also includes daily ski shuttles from Banff and Lake Louise hotels, along with tubing and night skiing access at Mt Norquay, as well as other perks. And what makes a trip to this magical place even more ideal? The U.S. dollar to Canada’s is currently in our favor. skibig3.com —Kim Fuller TURNS AND TOQUES: BANFF'S THREE RESORTS ARE ALL IN A NATIONAL PARK. photo by Reuben Krabbe

O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

FLASHPOINT

UPHILL BATTLE

10 .16

AS MORE AND MORE SKIERS AND SNOWBOARDERS ARE SEEKING TO EARN THEIR TURNS, MORE AND MORE RESORTS ARE LETTING THEM HAVE THEIR WAY. IS UPHILL SKIING BECOMING THE NEW NORMAL? by MATT HART

“

They have a lease and more or less control the property, so they can limit access as they see fit.

BODY BULL WHEEL: WHILE DOWNHILL SKIING HAS SEEN A DECREASE IN SALES OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS, ACCORDING TO SNOWSPORTS INDUSTRIES AMERICA (SIA), BACKCOUNTRY AND AT TOURING ARE ON THE RISE. photo by MATT HART

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

s a backcountry skier who has more ski days than partners, I used to tempt fate by skinning uphill on the outskirts of Eldora Mountain Resort, then skiing down the glades or groomed slopes inside their boundary ropes. Lift tickets are for those who use the lifts, I assured myself. But ski patrol tended to disagree— vehemently. On one occasion they even attempted to chase me down to my car in order to call the police and cite me for trespassing. And if they’d been a bit faster skiers I may have landed in jail— for skiing uphill on forest service land. As it turns out, Eldora owns the parking lot, but we collectively own the forest service land they operate on. Driven by equipment innovations and an ever growing interest in fitness, backcountry is one of the only growth segments the snowsports industry has seen in the past few years. It seems like everyone—from environmentallyconscious skiers, to split-boarders, to cross-training endurance junkies and recreational fitness-skinners—wants to climb up the mountains they then ski and snowboard down, whether for fun or exercise or both. This makes the local resorts the obvious option for training and fitness efforts when the backcountry avalanche conditions are questionable, or when you can’t find a ski partner. Ski-mountaineering, or “skimo,” was also recognized this year by the International Olympic Committee as a sport for possible inclusion in an upcoming Olympics. “Recognition essentially means that the IOC believes the sport is mature enough, has sufficient support, and sufficient competition for inclusion in the games,” says Nick Francis, President of the U.S. Ski Mountaineering Association. “It is doubtful that we would be in the next games, but China 2022 is a possibility.”

GAINING GROUND

You might expect that ski resorts would be scrambling to accommodate these new skiers. After all, growing the community inevitably leads to increased sales in

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COLORADO UPHILL FIVE RESORTS WHERE YOU CAN EARN YOUR TURNS. CRESTED BUTTE

All trails are open to uphill travelers when the lifts are closed but they must stick to designated routes when the resort is open. Dogs are allowed on leash on some routes, as are fat bikes, but only when the lifts are closed. $10 day pass, $100 season pass. skicb.com

SKINNING IN THE GAME: WHO SAYS RESORT SKIING CAN'T BE A WORKOUT? photo by MATT HART

one form or another, whether it’s in food and beverage, season passes, or day tickets. But so far, adoption and inclusion has been a somewhat slow and painful process, which has resulted in a patchwork of regulations across the country. Some areas allow skinning only before or after lift operating hours. Others have vague policies, where it’s generally allowed, but depends mostly on who you run into on your way up. Then there is the scorched earth, cease-and-desistor-you’ll-be-carted-off-in-a-paddywagon attitude. “Resorts started seeing this trend take off around 2012 and it’s really snowballed into a sought-after activity,” says Jennifer Rudolph, Director of Communications for Colorado Ski Country USA. “They are now seeing guests and out-oftowners who are looking for places where they can ski uphill.” A few of the Mountain West’s finest ski resorts have embraced this new wave of human-powered skiing by developing policies that allow for uphill travel within ski area boundaries. “The Aspen area and Vail, especially, are on the forefront of resorts that really see the value in this as a community builder that establishes a new level of engagement,” says Francis. “It’s something very small that they can do that creates a community that’s very much to their benefit.” In 2014, Crested Butte began to capitalize on the energy and excitement of the trend and they now have the most progressive uphill program. “Crested Butte is the epicenter of uphill resort travel,” says Francis. The resort sells single-day uphill tickets for $10, an uphill season pass for $100, and even groom a free trail on Snodgrass Mountain, adjacent to CBMR, for those who don’t want to pay for the workout.

FOR THE PEOPLE?

There are 122 ski resorts in America that operate on National Forest land, including Vail, Aspen, Crested Butte and Eldora. Surveys show that hiking is the most common recreational reason for visiting a national forest, with downhill skiing a close second (roughly 25 million skier visits). “The majority of the resorts are operating on public land,” says Francis. “They have a lease and more or less control the property, so they can limit access as they see fit.” Purchased in June by Utah’s Powdr Corp, just under half of Eldora’s ski resort is on forest service land, for which it has a special-use permit to operate the business. New blood brings new attitudes and for 2016/2017 Eldora is finally going to allow uphill traffic. “Quite honestly it wasn’t in our operating plans in the past,” says J.P. Chevalier, Eldora’s Director of Marketing and Skier Services. “But, we’ve talked to a lot of people and we’ve got a solid grasp of where the market is today and what people are looking for. AT [alpine touring] can present its challenges since we we are a tiny 650-acre place, but we’re going to be doing something small this year, to allow it as a trial.” To avoid a Bond-like ski chase, Rudolph says, just know before you go. “The smartest thing people can do is just be prepared and know what each resorts rules are before they head out.” Matt Hart's work has appeared in National Geographic, Outside and Men’s Journal and he's a former professional endurance coach. To atone for his sins, he bought a seaon pass at Eldora the past two seasons.

STICK IT TO WINTER.

LOVELAND

Two uphill access routes head to the top of Ptarmigan and the top of the Continental Divide. Dogs under voice command are allowed only when lifts are closed. Free, but you must sign up for an Uphill Access Card, good for the season, at the ticket office. skiloveland.com

VAIL

Vail has an incredibly accommodating uphill policy but the mountain and Forest Service ask that you call 970-754-3049 for updated information (it can change daily) before you go. Dogs are only allowed when lifts are not running. Free. vail.com

COPPER

Uphill access allowed only when lifts are not operating. Email uphill_access@ coppercolorado.com for information. Free but you must pick up a Copper Mountain Uphill Access Pass at Copper Mountain’s Lower Patrol Room. coppercolorado.com

ELDORA

The resort is allowing uphill skiing on a trial basis this season. You must stay on the designated route, only ski during area operating times and obey blackout dates. $16-$25 day pass, $89-$99 season pass add-on, $149$129 season pass. eldora.com

Moab FST Ice+ Thermo

O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

2017

$5,000 CASH PURSE

Visit thegrandtraverse.org to register. Triple Crown registration window opens 10/1/16 through 10/31/16 (limited to 50 participants). All Triple Crown participants receive a priority spot in the Grand Traverse Backcountry Ski Race. Registrations for each individual event: The Backcountry Ski, The Mountain Run, and The Mountain Bike, open on 12/1/16.

HOT SPOT

10 . 16

BIG LINES

IF YOU MAKE ONE SKI ROAD TRIP THIS WINTER, HEAD SOUTH TO THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT AND THE STEEPS, DEEPS, BEER, ART AND EVER ENDEARING FUNK OF TAOS, NEW MEXICO. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

irst, we are not going to dedicate this story about Taos to green chili. Now, don't get us wrong. We love green chili, but it seems to be the easy fallback when it comes to out-of-state writers talking about The Land of Enchantment. May we suggest you focus on red chili (becasue you won't get red chili like you get here outside of New Mexico), or live a little and go Christmas (red and green chili). But enough with the food (don't worry, we will get back to it). What any story about Taos should focus on is, first, how damn good the steep skiing is here, and, two, how this might be the only ski town left with some authentic funk to it. Things are changing, though. The ski resort, long a family business, is under new ownership. But the coming changes should only impove things for greenchili-seeking visitors.

SKI AND RIDE

The steeps are the big attraction at Taos Ski Valley's 1,294 acres of stunning terrain. Core skiers seeking a vert fix, tourons looking for a bit of a rush and even local families all head for the ridge. Up until 2014, the faithful had to hike every step to those turns, but the new Kachina Peak Chairlift whisks skiers and boarders (who were not allowed here until the spring of 2008) up to 12,450 feet, making it the third highest in North America (behind Loveland and Breckenridge) and opens up 1,000 verts of double-black action. While the new chair may have perturbed some locals, most think it has been a very good thing. The obvious line here, Main Street, sees a lot of traffic and can get bumped up quick. Head skier's right to Hunziker Chute and Dogleg if you want a rush. Or yo-yo the K Chutes to skier's left (don't get too sketched out; we have seen aggressive nine-year-olds ski K3, K4

HOMEGROWN VIBES : TAOS BLENDS BIG-MOUNTAIN TERRAIN WITH SMALL-TOWN VIBES (OFTEN QUITE MYSTIC). THE LOCALS RULE HERE, AND IF YOU WANT TO FIND THE GOODS, WE SUGGEST YOU MAKE FRIENDS—AND BUY THEM MULTIPLE BEERS. photos by LIAM DORAN

and K5). Oh and there's still plenty of hiking for turns to be had here. If you want to sweat a bit, bootstep up to Highline Ridge and West Basin Ridge. The resort has also expanded the glades in the hike-to Wild West. Steeps and boot-packing not your thing? No worries. Hit the power cruisers off of Lifts 4 and 7. It's hard to go wrong. If you are here for an extended stay, consider purchasing the Taos Card ($98-$42, depending on time of year and age), which gives guests $19 off the single-day ticket rate (and every seventh day is free). Taos is also part of the outstanding Mountain Collective pass program (mountaincollective.com). For more details go to skitaos.com.

big way. January 2017 marks the opening of The Blake at Taos Ski Valley (named after founder Ernie Blake). The 80-room capstone to the resort's $300-million-dollar rennovation project will inject some high-end class to the scene here. Or stay in Taos itself (though you may be kicking yourself when you don't wake up slopeside on a powder day). The Taos Inn (taosinn.com) is right in the center of the action and you can chill out with a cocktail and live music post-ski-day here in the famed Adobe Bar. If you want a touch of funk, the Laughing Horse Inn (laughinghorseinn.com) maintains the town’s old hippy vibe—you cook your own meals here with other guests.

STAY

EAT

One of the knocks on Taos Ski Valley used to be that the accommodations were better in town than up on the hill. That's all changing in a very

Now the part when we don't talk about the green chili. At the mountain base area, The Bavarian is the place to be if you like your beer with a

touch of dirndl kitsch. Down in town, Guadalajara Grill (guadalajaragrill. com) is the real deal for classic New Mexican eats. Or go upscale at the Love Apple (theloveapple.net) for foodie-pleasing deliciousness.

DON’T FORGET SANTA FE Don't overlook Ski Santa Fe (skisantafe.com) in your rush to get to Taos. This 660-acre gem, tucked into the Sangre de Cristos just 16 miles from the artists on the plaza packs a punch with 225 annual inches of the white stuff and a dedicated local vibe. The stand-out run is Gay Way, a big, wide-open blue with stunning views of the city below, but don't miss the trees here on a powder day (or tour out of the resort to Big Tesuque). —D.S.

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THE TRAIL

10 .16

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MONUMENT CANYON NEED A SHOT OF DESERT WHEN THINGS COOL DOWN? DOWNLOAD THE FREE VIEWRANGER APP AND COORDINATES AND BASK IN THIS CLASSIC BACKPACKING TRIP. by CHRIS KASSAR This 6.3-mile, point-to-point descent through Monument Canyon winds through the eponymous chasm at the heart of the Colorado National Monument. It holds the most famous and imposing rock features of the park, including the Kissing Couple and Independence Monument. Fall is the perfect time to visit, rewarding visitors with prime temps, stunning colors and plenty of solitude. You can crank this hike out in a day, but why not spend the night to enjoy star-filled skies? Note: Obtain free, required backcountry camping permits at Saddlehorn Visitor Center. Water is not available in the backcountry, even in the spring. GOING DOWN

From the Upper Monument Canyon Trailhead, begin your descent into the canyon on a well-maintained dirt path. Sandy switchbacks lined with pinyons and junipers offer sweeping views of the red rock cliff walls. GAUNTLET

Reach a signed intersection with the Coke Ovens Trail. Continue north (left) to pass a sign-in box. From here, the trail narrows, turns a bit more rugged and crosses a slickrock shelf with a steep drop off to the left. Enjoy walking through this narrow gauntlet, hugging the sandstone cliffs on your right as you delve deeper into this wild, remote portion of the Monument. Chipmunks and collared lizards scurry across giant boulders lining gullies next to the route. The trail hugs the left side of the canyon as it continues down. HIT BOTTOM

On your right, pass a giant rock pillar that 18

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

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grows in size each day thanks to the fact that hikers throw tiny stones on top of it. The canyon buzzes with life: Turkey vultures, ravens, lizards, chipmunks and Stellar’s jays flitter about. The soil turns rockier and red as you reach the canyon bottom. Here a small wash harbors a cottonwood tree and various lush plants. Once you have explored this tiny oasis, cross the wash to find a trail sign pointing you east. 4.

KISS, KISS

Soon, you cross another wash and climb rock steps to continue along the flat, smooth dirt trail winding through the canyon. Reach the Kissing Couple and set up camp for the night (or take a break if you are doing it one day) in the romantic duo’s shadow. 5.

FEELING FREE

Cross a drainage and begin heading west and then north away from the Kissing Couple. The trail climbs gradually and turns sharply right (east) to reach 450-foot-high Independence Monument, the largest freestanding rock formation in the park. 6.

WEDDING CANYON TRAIL

Descend gradually through pinyon-juniper to reach the signed junction with the Wedding Canyon Trail. Turn east (right) to continue exploring the lower part of Monument Canyon, which becomes rockier, narrower and more rugged. 7.

CIVILIZATION

Continue descending to reach a sandier, wider trail that passes a sign-in box. Swing sharply north (left), climb a few steps and follow the fence line bordering a neighborhood. 8.

JUNCTION

Pass the second junction with the Wedding Canyon Trail coming in from the west (left). Continue downhill and turn east (right).

DONE

Arrive at your shuttle vehicle at the Lower Monument Trailhead. Just one car? You can make the entire journey an out-and-back, or just go to Independence Monument (5) and back.

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T H E

G R E A T

OUTDOORS

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M A D E

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NUMEROLOGY

10 .16

SNOW DEEP STATS ON THE GREAT WHITE FLUFFY STUFF. by CAMERON MARTINDELL

4.8

Billions of dollars of economic activity generated on average each year in the state of Colorado thanks to the sports of skiing and snowboarding.

2,200

Approximate number of ski patrollers working the slopes in Colorado.

480

Average number of inches of natural snowfall each season at Wolf Creek Ski Area, the most in the state.

42,676

Number of skiable acres in the 25 ski areas in Colorado. Need more? Get ready to earn your turns. It would be pretty difficult to measure how much backcountry access there is… let’s just go with lots. You probably couldn’t ski it all if you tried.

10,000,000,000,000,000,000

Approximate number of water molecules that compose the typical snowflake. This variance plus the fact that they all form a little differently depending on the temperature, humidity, water vapor, and other factors they encounter on their journey to the ground, means that the chance that no snowflake is the same is great, though not impossible.

photo by BEN DUKE

Number of hours driven by Lindsey Vonn and her family from her childhood hometown in Minnesota to Vail when she got started in skiing as a kid.

26,411,680

Total vertical feet reported on the Epic Mix profile of Charles A. since 2011. His biggest season was 2011-12 with 7,508,982 vertical feet skied.

Snow avalanche caused fatalities in Colorado for the 2015-16 season. Only one more than the season before but a remarkable trend considering years prior to that back to 2009 have killed 7 to 11 people per year. Be smart in the backcountry.

The recorded number of glacial quakes, a type of earthquake created by rapid glacial melting, caused by Helheim, the fastest retreating glacier in Greenland, between 1993 and 2005.

300

The rough number of days of sunshine in Colorado which coincidentally also matches the average number of inches of snowfall annually across the state.

837.5

Greatest snowfall recorded in Colorado, at Wolf Creek Pass in 1978-79. Oh, to have partied in the back in the 1970s.

158.424

Miles per hour. The speed Italy’s Ivan Origone hit on skis last March, making him not only the world speed skiing record holder but the fastest non-motorized human ever. Valentina Greggio, also of Italy, set the woman’s record on the same day at 153.502

Number of people to ski all of Colorado's peaks over 14,000 feet in elevation in a calendar year. Chris Davenport became the first and fastest to do it in 2007 in 362 days. Jon Kedrowski, who holds the record for sleeping on top of all the Fourteeners, joined him last June, finishing in exactly 364 days.

2017-2018

Season when Vail Resort’s Epic Pass will work at British Columbia’s Whistler Blackcomb Resort, which the Colorado-based company acquired this past summer (see page 50).

resi side si 2 16 16 re dent de nt

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STRAIGHT TALK

10 .16

ERIC LARSEN A NEW BOOK BY THE COLORADO-BASED POLAR ADVENTURER DOCUMENTS WHAT MAY BE THE LAST SKI TRIP TO THE NORTH POLE— BEFORE IT MELTS AWAY. by ELIZABETH MILLER

auling a pair of sleds loaded with more than 300 pounds of gear (including 11 pounds of chocolate) across a moving landscape of sea ice has always made the challenge of human-powered travel to the North Pole precarious at best. But disappearing sea ice—down from 12 feet to four feet thick—makes for even more dangerous terrain. Plus, fewer pilots are willing to land on that thin ice, and bad weather has narrowed the window of when they can even make an attempt. So when Eric Larsen and Ryan Waters skied, snowshoed and swam from Canadian soil to the North Pole in 2014, they knew that their expedition might be the last of its kind—both an exclamation mark and a swan song, as Larsen puts it. His latest in a multimedia effort to tell the story of this disappearing place is a book, co-written by EO contributing editor Hudson Lindenberger: On Thin Ice: An Epic Final Quest into the Melting Arctic. We got him to pause while planning a promotional tour of REI stores to answer a few questions.

YOU'VE LONG COMBINED THIS NOTION OF POLAR EXPLORATION WITH EDUCATING PEOPLE ABOUT CLIMATE CHANGE. WHY?

My background is in environmental education, so I didn't just come into

the adventure world and try to protect the environment as an add-on. I was trying to get people interested in this issue and I want to find the most compelling ways to tell those stories. So I realized, from an educational perspective, that adventure could have a good connection to places and the issues that are going on there, especially with the Arctic. It's a place that's so abstract for most people, we kind of need that physical human

I've done previously, which is going to these cold places. What I’m able to do now is cast my reach out a little farther than the North Pole, because if you look at any of these iconic cold spots—the Patagonia ice cap, Siberia, Nepal, Mongolia, back to Arctic Canada, but not the Arctic Ocean— these are all places that are changing and I almost feel a greater desire to keep going on this mission because we're in a race against time. It's no

ARCTIC SELFIE: LARSEN LOOKS DEEP INTO HIS OWN EYES.

drama to help better understand it. And, obviously, I love the adventure too, and I like the physical and mental challenges and I want to be able to continue it do it. If there’s no ice, it’s not possible. WHAT DOES A POLAR EXPLORER DO WHEN YOU CAN’T GO BACK TO THE NORTH POLE?

Yeah, exactly. I'm still trying to figure that out. I'm still focused on the same mission of all the trips that

longer about being the first person to these places; now, it’s about being the last, and it’s almost like going out and making sure we understand what we have right now. It's like going out and seeing the last Dodo bird or the last passenger pigeon. HAS ANYONE BEEN ABLE TO REPEAT THE TRIP YOU AND RYAN COMPLETED?

No. I think there are some guys who are looking at going this year. I hope

ENDGAME? RYAN WATERS SLOGS ACROSS ARCTIC ICE DURING THE 2014 EXPEDITION. photos by Eric Larsen

they can do it quite honestly, but I’m realistic. When I really dig down in my heart of hearts, I'm convinced that our trip will be the last full North Pole expedition, and that’s not necessarily a badge I want to be wearing. HOW HAS BECOMING A HUSBAND AND FATHER AFFECTED YOUR EXPLORATION GOALS?

It's changed them a lot. When we were in Nepal last year, Ryan and I were on this knife-edge ridge, trying to do it, and I could see Everest way off in the distance. It was just really sketchy. I do mountaineering, but I’m not the most talented and hardcore mountaineer, so it was pushing my comfort level pretty substantially, and I just felt like, “What am I doing here? I have two kids. That’s my most important job.” So it’s something that's constantly on my mind. Ryan probably gets a little sick of me looking at pictures and video. But then I got back from Nepal and I was home for a week and a half and sent Ryan a text message: “I’m ready to go again.” So it’s a hard thing to balance. I love being a dad more than I would ever have possibly imagined. It's a lot like an expedition because you’ve got to keep on top of everything all the time, and I like that. But I also know that big trips are part of who I am. DO YOU HAVE ANY HOPE OF GETTING TO TAKE YOUR KIDS TO SEE THE ARCTIC?

Oh yeah, I do. But they may not be able to see those places like I have. They may go there on a boat. It may be nothing but water.

O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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THE LIFE

10 . 16

OUTDOOR

D-BAGS NO, WE ARE NOT TALKING ABOUT “DIRT” BAGS HERE. IN THE OUTDOORS, AS IN LIFE, YOU WILL ENCOUNTER PERSONALITIES THAT RUB YOU THE WRONG WAY, OFFEND YOU, REPEL YOU AND EVEN CAUSE YOU TO RECONSIDER EVERY LIFE CHOICE YOU’VE EVER MADE. IT’S TIME TO MEET THE WORST PEOPLE IN THE OUTDOOR WORLD. by RACHEL WALKER

utdoors people saved me from an adolescence of misdemeanors. Many years ago, as a sneaky teenager flirting with the prospect of shoplifting, I slipped through the carved wooden doors of Mountain Chalet, the mountaineering shop in my hometown. There, a taut and tanned employee spent hours helping me select the internal frame backpack on which I’d spend a year’s worth of babysitting earnings. I was indecisive, so she showed me pack after pack. She demonstrated how to adjust the straps. She even added and removed sand bags so I could feel how different packs distributed weight. As she buzzed around, I noticed a shiny Petzl headlamp left on the counter, tags still on. I couldn’t afford both the pack and the light, but I wanted both. It wasn’t even a decision; I simply knew I’d steal the headlamp, and I monitored it throughout my packfitting endeavor hoping no one would put it back where it belonged, with the other pricey headlamps under lock and key. But between fastening that hip belt on my tenth pack and ringing up my purchase an hour later, I made a better choice. Crime was not in my future. Instead, I wanted to be just like the woman who helped me, a muscled and confident part-time Outward Bound instructor who had regaled me with tales of skiing Pikes Peak, sea kayaking in Baja and cooking a Thanksgiving turkey in a pit dug way out in the Utah desert. This was circa 1990, and that kind, expansive woman lured me into what would become a very long and persevering relationship with outdoor adventures. Since then, I’ve met many an intrepid,

#TRASHTAG: WHEN THE SOCIAL MEDIA MAVEN FINDS THAT DUDE WHO DOES EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO DO (BUT BETTER) AND THEY MAKE SURE THEY INCESSANTLY SHARE THEIR ADORABLE, EDGY MILLENNIAL BLISS, ITS TIME TO DELETE YOUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT AND START WORKING IN A DISPENSARY.

photo by ANDREW BYDLON / CAVEMAN COLLECTIVE

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THE LIFE

10 . 16

inspiring explorer. But in the past 26 years I have also met multitudes of people who, frankly, were annoying as hell. Unlike that guardian angel who inadvertently kept me out of Juvie Hall, there are people who gravitate to the outdoors who are selfish, shallow, and self-absorbed. Douchebags. A-holes. Worse. We bet you know a few. If not, here are some of the ones we find most offensive:

THE DIMINUTIZER

Before going to college, I took a semester off and landed a scholarship for a Colorado Outward Bound School backcountry ski and mountaineering course. For 12 days in January, we skied and camped in the Collegiate Mountains near Leadville, and I discovered I loved skinning uphill. I also learned I had a paralyzing fear of exposure. Despite gravity’s steadfast ability to keep my body earth-bound, I entertained visions of plummeting off mountainsides, even when there were no nearby cliffs to tumble from.

This fear manifested in shaking legs and tearful eyes, short breaths, and a proliferation of snot, all of which came on in force the day we skied to the top of Mount Elbert, Colorado’s highest peak at 14,439 feet. The instructor who was stuck with me clearly thought he got the short end of the stick when I stopped mid skin and refused to advance. “This isn’t even steep!” he exclaimed. I stifled a sob and shuffled forward, dizzy with doubt. “Seriously,” he continued, “I did harder climbs when I was nine.” I whimpered. “You realize you’re not mountaineer quality, right?” I asked if we had to reach the summit. Jaw clenched, he nodded. Under his breath, but loud enough so I could hear, he whispered he was so sick of this shit. Then he said out loud, “One more month. That’s all that’s standing between me and Everest.” We made the summit and I even skied down. He was the first true asshole I met in the outdoors, but definitely not the last.

THE LOCAL

Several years ago my husband and I skied out the gate into the backcountry abutting Wyoming’s

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. We followed tracks south to the top of a popular canyon called Four Pines. While we contemplated our options for descending, a group skied up with enough duct tape on their ski poles to hold a life raft together. When they lifted their goggles, the raccoon tans on their faces were so severe it led to a singular conclusion: These men and women skied all day, every day. They eyed us up and down and then boldly asked, “You from around here?” “No, we’re from Boulder.” Eye rolls. Then one of them pulled out a phone and dialed a number. “Yo,” she said into the receiver. “In-bounds is over. Meet us on Four Pines. OB is where it’s at.” She paused and glared at us before continuing her conversation. “At least until all the tourons ski it out.”

THE MOOCH

Last winter, I invited a friend to a fancy, high-priced ski resort for a day on the slopes—my treat. Actually, that’s somewhat disingenuous. I was reporting a story, and the resort PR folks gave me an extra ticket (at my request) so I could bring a friend, which would add color to my piece.

So when I say I treated her to a day of skiing, that’s true, but I didn’t pay actual money for her ticket. So maybe I shouldn’t be bothered that she asked me to pay for parking. And for gas money. And she didn’t offer to buy me a beer or lunch or anything to say, hey, thanks for saving me $180 on a day pass. Note to readers: Always offer to buy a beer for the person getting you a discount or pro deal or anything free (even if it didn’t cost them money but came through professional contacts). If they don’t drink, chocolate goes a long way.

THE BRAGGART

If he’s child-free and single, it’s the many days he’s logged climbing/ camping/mountain biking/living in his truck/surfing in Mexico/surfing in Oregon/driving Canada’s Icefields Parkway/riding Moab/climbing Half Dome/being a raft guide/poaching the wilderness on his mountain bike/boating the Grand Canyon/ being fearless and lackadaisical and free—certainly much more free than you, you putz. If he’s got kids, it’s that he’s booked every campsite every weekend from now through three months from now, and that

his kid hiked four miles to a remote backcountry campsite without complaint, and that junior can already ski the back bowls and he’s still in kindergarten! This person forgot (or never knew) that there is too much of a good thing, especially when talking about his own awesomeness.

THE SOCIAL MEDIA MAVEN

Who cares how #blessed you are when you #exploremore and #getoutside? Doing #SUPyoga at #sunrise doesn’t make you more #blissed than me. Especially when I see it on your Insta/Twitter/ Facebook/Snapchat feed within minutes of said #accomplishment. Instead it’s like #OMFG.

THE REARVIEW MIRROR LOOKER

Mention mountain biking in Crested Butte, and most people exclaim how rad the 401 trail is. Let them have Schofield Pass. The real goods are out of Crested Butte South, up the Cement Creek Drainage, where a 20-plus-mile loop known as Reno/ Bear/Flagg/Deadman rewards three quad-burning, multi-mile climbs

with as many single track descents. They’re long and flow through meadows of wildflowers, aspen groves, and oasis-like creek crossings. This is supreme mountain bike riding, except for when it’s not. And the conditions are not superlative after heavy storms when pounding rain leaves big divots in the trail, or after the motocross folks tear up the trails, leaving a thick layer of dust where they once was tacky dirt. It’s a Jekyll and Hyde situation, the same trail, two polar opposite experiences. Which means you may end up riding it with someone who starts off raving about the flow, the climbs, only to emerge dusty, bloodied (from falling into the trail ruts), and complaining about how— seriously—this was so amazing last season. “Honestly,” she’ll whine, “you should have ridden it then. It was so rad. You’re really missing out now.” (And, if I’m being completely honest, that pain in the ass whiner might actually be me.)

THE TOURON SALUTE: IT WAS ALL SO MUCH BETTER BEFORE YOU. photo by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Rachel Walker casts aspersions and judgements from her Boulder home. In her free time, she writes stories and heads into the outdoors.

ARAPAHOEBASIN.COM | 888.ARAPAHOE

‘Nuff said. 70 Legendary Years. Keystone lift tickets are valid here. Take the FREE Summit Stage from anywhere in Summit County to Arapahoe Basin

O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

CUBICLE PROOF PANTS.

Watch our behind the scenes VIDEO: Download the Layar app, grab a cold one and enjoy

MountainKhakis.com | 866.686.7778

INSIDE INFO

10 .16

HOT LIST WINTER IS ALL TOO SHORT AND THERE IS FAR TOO MUCH FUN TO BE HAD IN COLORADO, BUT WE SUGGEST YOU MAKE IT A PRIORITY TO TICK OFF OUR MANDATORY LISTICLE AT THESE RESORTS.

photo by LIAM DORAN (TOP), COURTESY VAIL (MIDDLE), DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN (BOTTOM).

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

HIKE

for free at Loveland. Ride the cat for free at Loveland. Just make sure you buy a ticket to ride the lifts. But get this: The $56 half-day ticket here gives you any four-hour block of time you want (no waiting until noon). skiloveland.com

BRING THE FAMILY to

Keystone. The resort is the shortest Summit County sojurn from the Front Range, the gondola is warm, School Marm is the best green in the state (yes, such a thing exists), it has the largest snow fort on the slopes ... and in December it hosts Colorado Family Ski Month, with a plethora of free family-focused events (and a visit from Santa). keystoneresort.com

BOOZE IT UP AT BRECK Craft

brew pubs? Every ski town's got a handful these days. Distilleries are the new black when it comes to authentic spots to savor spirits and maybe catch a buzz. To that end, Breckenridge Distillery is expanding and opening a new barrel house and a farm-to-table restaurant,

which is dedicated to a whole animal process and uses spent grains as feed. breckenridgedistillery.com

SKI FAKE SNOW? We can't

believe we are advocating for manmade snow, but the mad scientists at Beaver Creek's snow surfaces team have spent the past two years developing the Snow Refresh project. According to the resort, when conditions are cold and dry but the heavens are not complying with the real stuff, the state-of-theart machinery will billow a coat of continuous fresh stuff on the Red Tail, Gold Dust and Centennial trails. Now that's better than free cookies on the lift line. beavercreek.com

CHANNEL THE GODDESS

Much like Vail's Lindsay Vonn, the Norse goddess Skadi ripped far better than all the wannabe bros who were chasing her around the frozen Scandinavian countryside. In her honor, Vail Mountain kicks off its second annual Skadi Vail Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ski Festival, December 14-16, 2016. The mountain will cater to women,

with all-female guided laps with instructors, women-specific demos, evening events and more. vail.com

SOAK

at Mount Princeton Hot Springs Spa and Resort. Is there a better way to wrap up a day hiking for freshies at Mirkwood Bowl at Monarch Mountain? Big bonus: If you have a 2016-17 lift ticket from any Colorado resort you get 20-percent off lodging with access to the springs included. That's a far more soothing way to end a pow day than dropping f-bombs in traffic. mtprinceton.com

FLY With a single

heli drop at Sliverton Mountain for $179, or go all out and spend the day in the bird (six drops) for $999. If you have cash to burn, Colorado Heliskiing

THIS SHOULD BE YOU: FIND PARADISE ON THE FREE CAT AT LOVELAND, GO GIRLFRIEND AT SKADI, PLAY AT KEYSTONE.

will even fly you in from Aspen or Telluride and have you back in time for happy hour. coloradoheliskiing.com

GET SCHOOLED by

the coaches at Woodward at Copper, who offer $75 one-hour private lessons to up your freestyle ski or snowboard game no matter your age. woodwardcopper.com

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THE

PERFECT WINTER

YOU NEED THIS WINTER TO ROCK.

Now is the time to plan how to best maximize your season of play. We want to help. That’s why we put together this guide to ensure this winter will be exactly what you need. PHOTO BY: DUSTIN SCHAEFER SKIER: BRUCE RUFF IN THE CAT WALK TREES AT LOVELAND

WINTER FESTIVAL

SNOWBOARDING

CRAFT SPIRITS FESTIVAL

OCTOBER 21-23 BRECKENRIDGE, CO BRECKENRIDGECRAFTSPIRITSFESTIVAL.COM The featured event, Still on the Hill: a Grand Tasting of Handcrafted Spirits, takes place on Saturday, October 22 at 4 p.m., at Riverwalk Center. Admission provides a complimentary tasting glass, delicious craft spirits, craft cocktails, people’s choice voting, artisanal snacks and live music! Tickets go on sale soon.

COLORADO SKI AND SNOWBOARD EXPO

NOVEMBER 4-6 COLORADO CONVENTION CENTER DENVER, CO BEWISPORTS.COM/DENVER-EXPO Get ready to kick off your season at the 25th annual Colorado Ski & Snowboard Expo. Live acts, interactive exhibits and ongoing giveaways provide Expo visitors with nonstop entertainment. This year is guaranteed to be even better than ever.

FALL BACK BEER FEST

NOVEMBER 5 ESTES PARK, CO VISITESTESPARK.COM/BEER-FEST A celebration of the art of brewing, this beer festival features dozens of breweries with their brewers on hand in order to tell you all about the craft. Enjoy endless tastings, great music, delicious food truck grub, cool beer gear and plenty of brewing demos.

FOOD

BEER

COPPER MOUNTAIN OPENING DAY NOVEMBER 11 COPPER MOUNTAIN, CO COPPERCOLORADO.COM

Join Copper in kicking off the 2016-17 season. Vie for first chair while enjoying free coffee, donuts and other surprises to celebrate the return of winter.

SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH NORDIC CENTER OPENING

NOVEMBER 15 SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH, GRANBY, CO SNOWMOUNTAINRANCH.ORG Our Nordic Center has over 120 kilometers of groomed trails for everyone from the firsttime snowshoer or Nordic skier to the elite racer. Be here for opening day!

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT OPENING DAY

NOVEMBER 18 (CONDITIONS PERMITTING) GRAND TARGHEE RESORT, CO GRANDTARGHEERESORT.COM/EVENTS Come experience some of the best early season conditions in the Northern Rockies. It’s always deep at Targhee.

DONATION DAY

NOVEMBER 23 CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN RESORT, CO SKICB.COM Come support the local kids in the valley by skiing or riding on Donation Day at CBMR for only $15 for the day. All guests must purchase a ticket and all proceeds benefit

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

MUSIC

SKIING

CLIMBING

the Crested Butte Snowsports Foundation. And be sure to come to the resort’s official Opening Day on November 24, 2016.

THE CRESTED BUTTE NORDIC THANKSGIVING CAMP

NOVEMBER 24-27 CRESTED BUTTE, CO CBNORDIC.ORG

Enjoy some of the earliest skiing in the country, a free day on the slopes, kids camp and clinics from professional instructors.

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT OPENING DAY

NOVEMBER 24 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT, WY JACKSONHOLE.COM This winter JHMR is operating Thanksgiving Day through Arpil 9, 2017—the longest winter season in Jackson Hole’s history. With a new lineup of lift ticket offerings, the returning Golden Ticket offer, 40 percent off lift tickets for resort passholders (1/9-31/9/2017), signature events and a new gondola, turning 51 never looked so good.

RISE AND SHINE RANDO SERIES

NOVEMBER 29, DECEMBER 13, JANUARY 10, JANUARY 24 ARAPAHOE BASIN, CO ARAPAHOEBASIN.COM Join us for a four-part series of uphill challenges two Tuesday mornings in December and January. Challenge yourself to all four or pick and choose which morning works the best for you and your workout

NORDIC SKIING

FAT BIKING

schedule. Starting in the base area at 10,780 feet and finishing near the Summit at 12,474 feet, with twists and turns along the way, the early morning Rise and Shine Rando Races are a fun, challenging way to start your day!

BIRDS OF PREY WORLD CUP NOVEMBER 29-DECEMBER 4 BEAVER CREEK MOUNTAIN, CO VVF.ORG

The only men’s Audi FIS Ski World Cup stop in the United States, the Birds of Prey has evolved into one of the world’s premier ski events. Beaver Creek Mountain is home to the Birds of Prey racecourse, challenging an international roster of top athletes for one week of racing featuring Men’s Alpine Ski Racing as part of the EverBank America’s Winter Opening, Where It Begins. The Birds of Prey downhill course is regarded as one of the most difficult downhill courses in the world.

WASSAIL DAYS

DECEMBER 2-DECEMBER 11 FRISCO, CO TOWNOFFRISCO.COM Frisco’s events throughout the week encourage some good, clean holiday fun with a dose of magic and wackiness. Some of the highlights include an “Ugly Sweater Challenge” on Main Street, a “Soup Cup Classic” with unlimited tubing and soup tasting at the Frisco Adventure Park and a tree lighting, featuring 600 luminarias up and down Frisco’s Main Street.

DEW TOUR

DECEMBER 8-11 BRECKENRIDGE, CO DEWTOUR.COM Dew Tour is an innovative contest series and content platform that brings together the world’s best skateboarders, snowboarders, skiers, artists, brands, and fans in a celebration of creativity and style.

ANGEL FIRE RESORT OPENING DAY DECEMBER 9 ANGEL FIRE, NM ANGELFIRERESORT.COM

Tune up your board and skis and join us for our first official day of the 2016-2017 Winter Season on the mountain!

PAGOSA NORDIC BB GUN BIATHLON FIFTH-ANNUAL SEASON OPENER

DECEMBER 10 WOLF CREEK SKI AREA, CO PAGOSANORDIC.COM

Come to Wolf Creek for excellent early season conditions. Events include a high altitude Nordic Ski race with 16 km competitive, 6 km citizens and KidK courses with three chances to shoot targets provided Red Ryder BB Guns between laps. Free entry, donations are encouraged; $25 for 16 km, $20 for 6 km and $5 for Kids.

GRAND TARGHEE FAT BIKE RACE SERIES DECEMBER 10 AND JANUARY 14 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT, WY GRANDTARGHEE.COM

Challenge your fat biking skills on Grand Targhee singletrack course.

TOMMELFEST & HOLIDAY GIFT MARKET DECEMBER 10 DEVIL’S THUMB RANCH, CO DEVILSTHUMBRANCH.COM

Fun for all ages, this winter-season kick-off celebration includes free skate and classic cross country ski lessons from DTR ski instructors and CU Ski Team Coaches. Enjoy sleigh rides and s’mores at the stables, the BBQ & Grog Garden, the Norwegian Keg Toss, a short track biathlon relay and the Best Viking Hat Competition. Revelers can also kick off their holiday shopping season at the Holiday Gift Market, featuring gifts from local and regional artisans and craftspeople in a festive atmosphere.

SKADI VAIL

DECEMBER 14-16 VAIL, CO VAIL.COM The second annual Skadi Fest is inspired by the Norse goddess of winter. Female skiers will be treated to customized on-mountain guided experiences, evening VIP events and female-specific equipment demos. United by a passion for skiing and the outdoors, Skadi Fest is an event designed by women for women and is offered for any level of skier.

12 DAYS OF ASPEN

DECEMBER 20-31 ASPEN, CO ASPENCHAMBER.ORG/EVENTS/ACRAANNUAL-EVENTS/12-DAYS-ASPEN There’s too much fun to be had in Aspen in December. From free smore’s to Santa and live reindeer, it’s fun for the whole family.

TORCHLIGHT PARADE AND FIREWORKS DECEMBER 31 MONARCH MOUNTAIN, CO SKIMONARCH.COM

Ring in the new year with the Monarch Mountain Torchlight Parade. Then wake up and ski or ride the mountain in the morning—if you still have it in you.

NEW YEARS’ EVE CELEBRATION

DECEMBER 31 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT, WY GRANDTARGHEE.COM It’s high time to ring in the new year at the resort that gets the most snow in Wyoming. Enjoy a tourchlight parade, fireworks, and celebrations at the Trap Bar and Grill.

MOONLIGHT DINE AND SKI DECEMBER 31, 2016 COPPER MOUNTAIN RESORT COPPERCOLORADO.COM

The first of three for winter 2016-17, the Moonlight Dine and Ski event features a delicious buffet dinner at Solitude Station, located mid-mountain near Copper’s American Eagle lift. After dinner, participants get to ski or ride back down to Center Village under the stars.

PAGOSA PLUMTAW ULTRA NORDIC SKI RACE (FOURTH ANNUAL) JANUARY 7 PAGOSA SPRINGS, CO PAGOSANORDIC.COM

Enter the 30 km and 60 km Freestyle Nordic Ski Races, self-supported ultra-long nordic ski races for hearty Nordic souls. The route follows the southern and western base of Pagosa Peak with fantastic views. The entry fee is $40 for 60 km and $30 for 30 km, There are great awards for the top finishers.

ASPEN WINTERSKOL

JANUARY 12-15 ASPEN,CO ASPENCHAMBER.ORG/EVENTS/ACRAANNUAL-EVENTS Aspen’s annual “toast to winter,” dates back to a quiet January in 1951 when local Aspenites decided to celebrate Aspen’s unique Nordic lifestyle with an eclectic weekend of festivities. The four-day celebration features on-mountain activities, WinterFest, fireworks over Aspen Mountain, and much, much more!

ESTES PARK WINTER FESTIVAL JANUARY 14-15 ESTES PARK, CO VISITESTESPARK.COM/WINTER-FEST

Winter adventure meets winter festivities with a chili cook-off, craft beer and wine

tastings, the annual Winter Trails Day and great live music. Kids’ activities and entertainment round out this all-ages festival of cold-weather fun.

THE GRAND TRAVERSE SKIMO ACADEMY JANUARY 20-22 CRESTED BUTTE, CO CBNORDIC.ORG

This three-day camp for all ability levels helps you take your uphill skiing to the next level. Don’t have gear? A Dynafit demo fleet will be on hand to help.

GAY SKI WEEKEND

JANUARY 26-29 PURGATORY RESORT, DURANGO, CO PURGATORYRESORT.COM Join us for our inaugural gay ski weekend! Purgatory Resort is the perfect place to come ski and play. We have a great weekend of activities and events planned for you, and they will all take place right here at the resort!

STAGECOACH CLASSIC JANUARY 21 DEVIL’S THUMB RANCH, CO DEVILSTHUMBRANCH.COM

The 4th annual Stagecoach Classic 30 km/15 km classic-only cross country ski race and tour will start at Devil’s Thumb Ranch Resort & Spa, traverse through the former Idlewild Ski Area and finish with a post-race BBQ and beer garden with live music at Hideaway Park in downtown Winter Park.

CB UNPLUGGED

JANUARY 21, FEBRUARY 11, APRIL 1 CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN RESORT, CO SKICB.COM/CB-UNPLUGGED CB Unplugged is a small venue, après experience featuring a national touring act in an intimate, acoustic setting. The events will take place at Butte 66 between 3:30 p.m. and 5:00 p.m.—the perfect time to settle in with an après beer, glass of wine or specialty cocktail, warm meal or milkshake (we offer full strength for 21+!).

THE ALLEY LOOP NORDIC MARATHON

FEBRUARY 4 CRESTED BUTTE CBNORDIC.ORG

Colorado’s largest Nordic ski race is also an American Birkebeiner Qualifier and a giant costume party on skis that starts on the snow-filled streets of town.

WINTER CARNIVAL FEBRUARY 8 - FEBRUARY 12 STEAMBOAT, C0 STEAMBOATCHAMBER.COM/SIGNATUREEVENTS/WINTER-CARNIVAL The oldest winter carnival in Colorado—the oldest West of the Mississippi in fact— returns for the 103rd celebration. The fun takes place at various locations all across the town of Steamboat Springs

MARRY ME & SKI FREE

FEBRUARY 14 LOVELAND SKI RESORT, PTARMIGAN ROOST CABIN AT THE TOP OF LIFT 2 SKILOVELAND.COM Skiers and riders tie the knot (or renew vows) and make their first turns in holy matrimony at this annual ski-themed mass wedding that takes place one Valentine’s Day at (where else?) Loveland Ski Area. Participating couples will get 2-for-1 lift tickets for the day and the ceremony is followed by an informal reception at the base area complete with cake, dancing and the best-dressed contest.

CARNIVAIL

FEBRUARY 25-26 VAIL, CO VAIL.COM Vail gets hit with a spicy taste of NewOrleans-style fun when CarniVail returns to Vail in February 2017. Guests will enjoy Mardi Gras merriment and all the Cajun fixins from a legendary crawfish boil to the Fat Tuesday Parade and Street Festival. CarniVail is certain to be the ultimate Mardi Gras celebration at 8,150 feet.

TELLURIDE GAY SKI WEEK FEBRUARY 25 - MARCH 4 TELLURIDE, CO TELLURIDEGAYSKI.COM

FAT BIKE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS

JANUARY 27 MT CRESTED BUTTE, CO CBCHAMBER.COM/EVENTS/FAT-BIKE The second annual Fat Bike World Championships will see even stiffer competition this year. Sign up to compete yourself or head down to CB this weekend to spectate. Either way, you can’t go wrong with Crested Butte in the winter time.

SNOWDOWN FEBRUARY 1-5 DURANGO, CO DURANGO.COM

Snowdown is a winter celebration that takes place February 1-5, 2017 with hundreds of events and culminating in one big parade. The theme for 2017 is Intergalactic.

Telluride Gay Ski Week is a week of LGBT events in Telluride, Colorado. Come ski or board what Condé Nast calls the best ski resort in North America.

SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH STAMPEDE

MARCH 11-12 SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH, GRANBY CO SNOWMOUNTAINRANCH.ORG/NORDIC The annual Snow Mountain Ranch Stampede Race will feature 10K, 25K, and 50K races. Be sure to book some time at one of the ranch’s cabins or lodges and stay for the whole weekend.

For more information on events this winter check out elevationoutdoors.com/ events-calendar/ O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

ROOMS FROM $

PP PN

GRAND TARGHEE GRANDTARGHEE.COM

“Providing genuine Western hospitality in the shadow of the Tetons, Grand Targhee is an adventure-lover’s paradise.” Grand Targhee Resort gets gets blessed with more than 500 inches of powder each year, and this multi-mountain gem makes the most of it. Better still, its secluded Alta, Wyoming, location leaves all those crowds behind in Colorado. Terrain parks, Nordic tracks, and Wyoming’s only cat skiing make the resort a mandatory destination for any winter warrior. Intensive “Knowledge is Powder” off-trail camps make Targhee one of the best places in the West to take your family skiing, too. There’s more: Book at least four nights of lodging and you get up to two Kids Ski Free Tickets per day, and while Junior learns to turn, you can cruise 8,000 to 14,000 vertical feet of untracked Teton powder with Grand Targhee Snowcat Adventures or duck through Grand Targhee’s backcountry gates into the diverse terrain of the Jedediah Smith Wilderness with local shop and guide service Yostmark Mountain Equipment. Done for the day? The World Famous Trap Bar is waiting for you with regional microbrews and the infamous Wydaho plate, a mountainous waffle fry masterpiece recently voted SKI magazine’s “Sluttiest Slopeside Nachos.” Aprés can only go downhill from here. GRANDTARGHEE

@GRANDTARGHEE

@GRANDTARGHEERESORT

BOULDER ADVENTURE LODGE A-LODGE.COM

“The gateway to your Colorado adventure.” Boulder Adventure Lodge co-founder Asa Firestone calls his creation a cross between an urban hipster hotel and a Montana ranch. What else would you expect from the combined forces of a National Geographic Young Explorer and a restaurant management aficionado? Voted one of the top ten hotels under $150 by USA Today, the A-Lodge offers everything from luxury campsites with a slackline park to kitchenetteequipped rooms for budget-conscious adventurers who love to cook their own food. Just kicking back in the thoughtfully designed hotel— which is about to unveil a brand-new lobby—is reason enough to visit, but the big attractions lie on the other side of its walls. Boulder Adventure Lodge is just a 25-minute shuttle ride to skiing at Eldora Mountain Resort, and it’s right down the road from world-class mountain biking at Betasso Preserve and some of the best rock climbing in Colorado. It’s also five minutes from Boulder’s iconic Pearl Street and some of the best restaurants in the country. Spend a starry-eyed vacation basking in Boulder’s finest without paying the Boulder price. ADVENTURELODGE

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@ADVENTURE_LODGE

CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN RESORT

CRESTED BUTTE MOUTAIN RESORT

SKICB.COM

“Crested Butte Mountain Resort is the perfect destination for an adventurous soul.” If a place is host to the longest-running extreme skiing event in the US—and the Big Mountain Enduro, at that—you know it’s got something up its sleeves. Test your mettle on the steep, high-caliber terrain that brings the pros to Crested Butte Mountain Resort, or let the rotating staff of athletes and Olympians teach you how to carve turns on what CBMR calls “the best corduroy in Colorado.” The mountain gets 300 inches of the good stuff per year on 1,547 skiable acres. If that’s not enough, don’t worry—with two million acres of national forest cozying up to the resort, backcountry bliss isn’t hard to find. FAMILY FRIENDLY // Not everyone wants to take the holiday card photo on the precarious lip of Teocalli Bowl. No problem: With a four-season zip line, snowcat driving lessons, and free shuttles into town, CBMR has enough adventure variety to keep everyone entertained. APRÉS // Let the barkeep slide you a drink over the ice bar on the deck of Uley’s Cabin or head into town for Django’s small plates and European vibe.

299

GETAWAY

FOR TWO

SKICRESTEDBUTTE

@SKICRESTEDBUTTE

• One night of lodging at the Grand Lodge Crested Butte & two days of lift tickets for two people • Add two days of lift tickets for your child 7-17 for only $65! • As always, kids 17 and under stay free • Additional nights only $159/night

• 20% off future lodging packages and single-day adult lift tickets when booked through Crested Butte Vacations

Includes all taxes and fees. Must be present to purchase. Subject to availability. Blackout dates: 12/17 – 12/19/2016, 12/27/2016 – 1/1/2017, 2/18/2017 , 3/10 – 3/16/2017. Non-transferable, non-refundable, and expires on 4/9/17. Changes/cancellation to reservation allowed only once, and must be made 14 days prior to arrival. Changes/cancellation within 14 days of arrival not allowed. One Getaway per person, additional restrictions and fees may apply.

ONLY AVAILABLE AT SPECIAL SALES EVENTS

skicb.com/SalesEvents NATHAN BILOW

PHOTO CREDIT: CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN RESORT/NATHAN BILOW

BACKCOUNTRY // Try Snodgrass for a laid-back day of touring. Hit Red Lady, the mountain hanging over town, for a bit more of a challenge; getting the goods here starts with a 2.5-hour skin from parking on Kebler Pass Road. BIG ADVENTURE // Skate through powder-filled glades or huck imposing cliffs—the 542-acre Extremes (in bounds, though it doesn’t feel it) gives you the freedom to choose your own adventure.

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LOVELAND SKI AREA

LOVELAND SKI AREA SKILOVELAND.COM

“Near to the hearts and homes of generations of Colorado skiers and riders” Want the authentic Colorado experience? Wide-open skies, playful backcountry terrain and 13,000-foot summits leave no question about where to find the love in “Loveland.” The 79-year-old area gets pounded by about 422 inches of snow every year, and, with free cat access as far as the Continental Divide, you’ll be able to enjoy every bit of it. The nearly 2,000 skiable acres might feel overwhelming at first, but Loveland’s downto-earth local vibe makes it hard not to feel at home here.

LOVELANDSKIAREA

@LOVELANDSKIAREA

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

@LOVELANDSKIAREA

TICKETS // You’ll be hard pressed to find lift tickets for less ($71 per adult and $30 per kid) at any other mountain this big. Best of all, a unique flex ticket program lets you choose what four hours constitute your $56 half-day. FAMILY FRIENDLY // A short drive ( just 53 miles from Denver), free parking and a separate beginner’s base area make for a hassle-free family vacation. LESSONS // Loveland offers three-lesson pass packages for kids and young adults as well as group and private lessons—all at about half of what mega-resorts charge. PASSES // $389 for adults, $289 for young adults, and $179 for kids. It’s one of the best deals out there, especially when you factor in 15 free days at other mountains including Crested Butte, Monarch Mountain, Purgatory, Powderhorn and Powder Mountain in Utah. Loveland also offers midweek-only passes. APRÉS // There’s live music at the iconic Rathskeller bar. LODGING // Grab a ski-and-stay package with a local hotel, as low as $170 for a room and two lift tickets. Want a more lavish getaway? Georgetown’s riverside Hotel Chateaux Chamonix features rooms with hot tubs. RESTAURANTS // The Ptarmigan Roost Cabin at the top of Lift 2 serves up burgers, hot chocolate and more. RETAILERS // The Loveland Adventure Center Sport Shop can hook you up with anything from custom-fit boots to the goggles you left at home. BACKCOUNTRY // Loveland has two backcountry gates. BIG ADVENTURE // Snowcat rides on the ridge are free to anyone with a ticket or a season pass. Just swing by the ticket office and grab a free Ridge Cat Access Pass. HOT DEAL // First time skier? Complete three adult lessons for $340 and you get a free season pass.

COLORADOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST LIFT TICKET DEAL!

LIFT LINES & HASSLES NOT INCLUDED

Loveland 4-Paks are actual lift tickets that can be used by anyone on any day of the season. Use them yourself on 4 different days or share with friends and family all on the same day. No restrictions. No blackouts. 4-Paks are only available through 11-20-16 and are not available for purchase or pick up at any ticket window.

SKILOVELAND.COM

COPPER MOUNTAIN

PHOTO CREDIT: COPPER MOUNTAIN RESORT

COPPER MOUNTAIN COPPERCOLORADO.COM

“A down-to-earth ski experience that puts a relaxed mountain atmosphere above all else.” Copper Mountain’s 140 trails, 23 lifts and 2,465 acres of skiable terrain mean you’ll never run out of snow and stashes to explore here. Add in the Woodward Copper Barn with trampolines and foam pits to practice your freestyle moves, on-hill terrain parks and free snowcat rides? See you at last call. And the long season means you’ll get the most out your pass: Copper typically gets around 50 inches in March, and its northfacing front slopes hang onto snow longer than other resorts.

COPPERMTN

@COPPERMTN

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

@COPPERMTN

NEW THIS YEAR // California-inspired Mahi’s Street Tacos, slopeside Eagle BBQ and Mary’s Mountain Cookies all add their fare to the growing list of eateries here. TICKETS // A day pass runs from $72-98 for adults and $54-64 for kids. Some beta: Book online to save up to 45 percent. And if you’re fast enough, you can secure four days of skiing or riding for just $169 with Copper’s 4-Pack. FAMILY FRIENDLY // Enjoy free all-day shuttles, snowshoe tours and an ice skating rink. Do mom and dad want some time alone? Spend $30 around the village, and Copper will waive the fee for nighttime daycare for one kiddo. PASSES // The affordable Copper Season Pass ($429 for adults) gets you a blackout-free access with free days at Purgatory, Taos and Monarch Mountain. LODGING // From three-bedroom townhomes to affordable studios, Copper’s got you covered. LESSONS // Catch some air in a full-day freestyle lesson (ages 6 and up), sign your young shredder up for a sixweek weekend ski or ride program or hone your own skills in a traditional group learning environment. APRÉS // Mix it up at On the Rockies Whiskey Bar or catch happy hour (3:00-6:00 p.m.) at the Incline Bar and Grill. RESTAURANTS // Feast on a rack of ribs at locally-owned Double Diamond Restaurant. Rather snack? Chow down on a Mondo Nacho Plate at Endo’s Adrenaline Café. RETAILERS // Demo new high-performance skis at Copper Rocker or gussie up your dinner wardrobe with jewelry from local boutiques. BACKCOUNTRY // Copper’s backcountry gate takes you five miles to Janet’s Cabin, a Tenth Mountain Division hut. BIG ADVENTURE // Though they’re technically in-bounds, the expansive cat-accessible playground of Tucker Mountain and Copper Bowl hold pow days after a storm.

SALIDA “A historical treasure with a world of wilderness to explore.” Salida boasts Colorado’s largest historic district, complete with all the mining-town character and Victorian-era buildings you would expect in such a heralded spot. The oddly balmy winters earn Salida inclusion in the “Banana Belt” of Colorado, but that doesn’t mean you’ll hurt for the white stuff. Monarch Mountain doesn’t make any snow, but with 350 consistent inches each year, the all-natural powder is more than enough. After a day of skiing goodness straight from the heavens, take a dip at the Salida Hot Springs Aquatic Center or head downtown to wander through the 20 plus galleries of Colorado’s first Creative District, where you’ll meet local artists. Interested in après that takes in the view? Try the River’s Edge or Boathouse Cantina for fine dining on the Arkansas River waterfront. Oh, and leave your car at the hotel: Salida’s bike paths and trails mean you never have to take a break from adventure.

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

BUENA VISTA SALIDA

COLORFULCOLORADO.COM NOWTHISISCOLORADO

BUENA VISTA “A vibrant community reborn as one of Colorado’s top adventure towns.” Buena Vista’s first visitors arrived in covered wagons. Today, they come in VW vans strapped with kayaks, skis and mountain bikes. The town has come into its own in recent years, a mountain haven for entrepreneurs, artists and adventurers alike. Buena Vista means “Beautiful View,” and the description couldn’t be more apt; BV calls the banks of the Arkansas River home, and with 82 percent of the county public land, outdoor adventure is never far. In the winter, over 400 miles of groomed trails give snowmobiles and fat bikers the chance to raise their heart rates while skiers and riders get their fill at nearby Monarch Mountain. Head to one of the local hot springs to loosen up after a long day of shredding and cap off the night at the Deerhammer Distilling Company. Snow sports and whiskey? After 136 years of residency, Ol Buenie knows the way to a Coloradan’s heart.

MOUNT PRINCETON

MOUNT PRINCETON HOT SPRINGS RESORT MTPRINCETON.COM

“This rejuvenating mountain sanctuary is fed by the calm of the hot springs and the energy of the wilderness.” As the oldest-running hot springs resort in Colorado, The Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort has the relaxation business dialed. A spa, fitness club, juice bar and restaurants make every day here a recovery day. The resort’s rural Nathrop, Colorado location also makes it the perfect basecamp for fishing, peak bagging and both backcountry and cross country skiing, while the 114-degree springs serve up year-round swimming, kayaking lessons and water yoga classes. Looking for a celebration destination or just a weekend getaway? Look no further. GO OUTSIDE // Twelve sky-scouring fourteeners lie within a 30-mile radius of the resort—base your summit bids here. Interested in downhill vert? Take advantage of the short ski commute and get to nearby Monarch Mountain or Ski Cooper in time for first chair, or access incredible backcountry skiing and riding from the groomed trails of Cottonwood Pass. LODGING // The resort boasts 32 cabins and 60 rooms, and you can walk to the hot springs from every single one. Bonus: Fitness class and hot prings access come with your room key. RESTAURANTS // Clink glasses at the on-site Princeton Club Restaurant with a view of the jagged white Chalk Cliffs glowing in the moonlight. For daytime pampering, order a Mount Princeton Signature Bloody Mary poolside at the Spa & Club. HOT DEAL // Skiers and riders are welcome! Present a 2016-2017 lift ticket or season pass from any Colorado ski resort and nab a 20 percent discount on lodging. (Some restrictions apply.) MOUNTPRINCETON

@MOUNTPRINCETON

O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

SKI COOPER

SKICOOPER.COM

“Uncrowded, laid back and affordable, Cooper is skiing the way it should be.” Built in the 1940s as a ski trooper training ground for the Tenth Mountain Division, Cooper’s got character without the pomp and ego of other grand historic lodges. Here, tucked in the heart of the Rockies, the adventurous carver will have no trouble finding a challenge: Cooper boasts 2,600 snowcat-served acres, and the 10,500-foot base elevation means there’s light, fluffy snow all season. In-bounds, 39 trails, line-free lifts and affordable tickets and lessons make Cooper a family-friendly winter wonderland. APRÉS // Live it up or just kick up your heels at Katie O’Rourkes, the Irish pub that’s a jump and a sip from the Cooper base area. The full-service restaurant also hosts live music Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The cost of Cooper lift tickets drops to $30 every Thursday from January 5 onward, so you’ll have more to spend on Kerrigan’s Irish Stout. LODGING // Warm your toes by the soapstone wood stove in a Sleep Yurt on the forested grounds of the Tennessee Pass Nordic Center right across the road from the ski area. SKICOOPERCHICAGORIDGE

BACKCOUNTRY // Scratch the surface of Chicago Ridge’s motherlode of intermediate to expert lines, dipping into everything from wide-open powder bowls to timber glades. Bonus: Snowcat rides come with a gourmet picnic. BIG ADVENTURE // Legs sore from an ambitious first day of shredding? For $75 you can saddle up a snowcat and take a two-hour tour of some of the best mountain-top views in Colorado.

@SKICOOPERCO

High altitude family fun Affordable skiing Amazing snow Avoid the lift lines Chicago Ridge Cat Skiing

The heart of skiing in the

800.707.6114 40

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

of the Rockies

www.skicooper.com

@SKICOOPER

SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH

YMCA OF THE ROCKIES

SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH SNOWMOUNTAINRANCH.ORG

“A place for good, old-fashioned family fun in a tranquil mountain setting.” Say goodbye to cabin fever: Snow Mountain Ranch’s menu of family programs ensures a packed itinerary no matter the weather. Ice skating, tubing, dog sledding, sleighriding, indoor archery, yoga, advanced crafting, indoor rock climbing, swimming and sledding are all fair game at this bustling resort, nestled just south of Rocky Mountain National Park. Vacation here, and the kiddos won’t want to go home. GO OUTSIDE // The Ranch sits on 5,000 acres crisscrossed with snowshoe, Nordic and fat-bike trails. Itching for some downhill adrenaline? Rent skis and boards at the Snow Mountain Shop and head to nearby Winter Park or Granby Ranch. LESSONS // Sign up for a group Nordic ski lesson ($25) or, better yet, a private session ($45), and you’ll be zipping around the miles of trail on Snow Mountain Ranch grounds in no time. YMCAROCKIES

LODGING // Stay within a snowball’s throw of all the facilities in a pet-friendly cabin or a hotel-style lodge room. Lodging starts at $79 per night and comes with a free day pass to all Snow Mountain Ranch’s trails and amenities. FAMILY FRIENDLY // Snow Mountain Ranch designs all its programs with family in mind, and having a variety of activities on a compact campus converts hours of travel time into quality time.

@SNOWMTNRANCH

@SNOWMOUNTAINRANCH

O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

ESTES PARK

ESTES PARK VISITESTESPARK.COM

“A hidden winter escape with both incredible adventure and refreshing serenity.” Flanked by Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) on one side and Roosevelt National Forest on the other, Estes Park is bursting with opportunities for adventure. Alpine climbers and backcountry powder hounds alike call this basecamp home, and you’ll find mountain charm and character in the historic downtown village. Whether you’re planning a quiet escape or an all-out expedition, Estes Park has an adventure for you.

ESTESPARK

@VISITESTESPARK

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

@VISITESTESPARK

BACKCOUNTRY // Skin uphill in search of secret stashes in RMNP—the backcountry has everything from mellow terrain to snow-dusted granite spines hiding steep couloirs—or just head out for a scenic workout. IN BOUNDS // Craving groomers? Head an hour south to Eldora Mountain Resort for alpine and Nordic skiing. FAMILY FRIENDLY // Make Estes Park your snowshoeing basecamp, and head to Bear Lake Trailhead in RMNP. For more adrenaline, try fat biking in Roosevelt National Forest. BIG ADVENTURE // Scale the frozen cascade of Hidden Falls. Never swung a pick? Guides from the Colorado Mountain School or Kent Mountain Adventure Center are happy to show you the ropes. LODGING // You can experience all-in luxury at the Stanley Hotel’s brand-new Aspire Residences or try the newly remodeled The Landing for Bavarian old-world charm and modern amenities. RESTAURANTS // Hit The View Restaurant inside the 100-year-old Historic Crags Lodge for intimate, madefrom-scratch dining or Ed’s Cantina for a bison enchilada. APRÉS // When the adventure is over, fill up on elk summer sausage, cheese and fine reds at the Snowy Peaks Winery. More the beer type? Climbers and freeriders flock to the Rock Inn for rustic mountain après. RETAILERS // Need a new puffy down jacket? Stock up for adventure at Estes Park Mountain Shop, then cruise downtown’s unique boutiques and gear stores. LOCAL LIBATIONS // When it’s time for serious sipping, try Lumpy Ridge Brewing Company’s small-batch brews or check out the new Elkins Whisky. HOT DEAL // Winter is Estes Park’s value season with reduced lodging rates and special packages—like free gear rentals at Estes Park Condos.

Estes Park, base camp for Rocky Mountain National Park, is home to festive events all fall and winter long. Here are some highlights: Pumpkins & Pilsners – October 8th Fall Back Beer Festival – November 5th Catch the Glow Christmas Parade & Festivities – Thanksgiving Weekend Tinsel Tavern Tour – December 10th Winter Festival – January 14th & 15th Rails in the Rockies – February 18th & 19th Whiskey Warm-Up – March 11th Base camp for Rocky Mountain National Park | VisitEstesPark.com/events

GEAR

10 . 16

1. RAILING HEAD I.SUPERSHAPE RALLY Sure, sure, you look cool with your big powder skis on the groomers. But come on, resort skiing on the average day is about lapping out your legs with speed, style and effortless stability. Meet our top choice for your typical get-down-fast day on the hill. It's built to run thanks to Head's KERS technology, which gives it the guts of a race ski, stiffening up the tail when you come out of a turn. Spot a stash on the sides? No problem. The ski features Head's Speed Rocker to stomp that noise. Premounted with Head's PRD 14 binding, it measures 135/76/114 in a 170-cm ski. $1,425; head.com

2016 BEST OF

2. FEMALE

POWER

VOLKL 100EIGHT W

These full-figured babies are certainly up to the task of bombing down hard snow: The 3D Ridge Construction is thick in the middle of the ski and thin on the sides, making it lighter but still imparting impressive edging ability. But these skis were made for freeriding and that light weight and girth underfoot mean they dominate the untracked. They measure 141/108/124 in 157-, 165and 173-cm lengths. $825; volkl.com

TREE STASH SURFING

Here's that one ski that does it all: Salomon's QST models all feature floaty Koroyd tips and tails and Twin Rocker technology to crush deep days or remnant crud, and, at 188 underfoot, this version is just the right size for aggressive skiers. And, hey, it's a stable performer on frontside groomers, too, thanks to CFX Superfiber and a Titanal construction that will hold an edge when you lay it down on the hardpack. Measurements: 142/118/129 in a 185-cm ski. $750; salomon.com

BURTON FAMILY TREE BRANCH MANAGER Burton built this unique board via feedback from Japanese rider Narufumi “Beru” Yoshimura. The idea was to make a stick that could deal with Japan's legendary tree terrain. It levitates in pow but can make quick, snappy turns at will. Guess what? That also makes it the weapon of choice for riders who like to seek out goods in trees at Colorado resorts like Vail and Monarch. $670; burton.com

RESORT GEAR

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

THE SNOW IS UPON US. YOU BOUGHT THAT PASS. IT’S TIME TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO RIP THIS WINTER.

THREE SKIS & A BOARD FOR THE NEW SEASON... PLUS A BOOT! ONE BOOT

SALOMON X PRO 120

3. DAY TO DAY SALOMON QST 118

The best boots should have the backbone to drive your ski any way you wish—but they should not hurt. The crowd-favorite X Pro is once again our choice for doing just that: The boot's stiff enough to power big skis but gives up enough flex to stay comfy. Salomon updated the Twinframe Power Chassis with Grilamid plastic that makes it even lighter at 1,995 grams in a size 26.5 mondo boot. $600; salomon.com

GET DOWN HEAD-TO-TOE

SEE IT

ZEAL FORECAST WITH AUTOMATICPLUS+ There's nothing new about goggle lenses that automatically adjust to light conditions, but the system in the soft, classy Forecast offers up both sharp-focus polarization and light-adjusting technology that adapts faster than other models on days when the clouds roll in and out. $259; zealoptics.com

PANTS

686 GORE-TEX SMARTY WEAPON PANT It's hard to know exacly how to dress when you head out to the mountains before sunrise. 686 has you covered. This three-in-one pant can handle it all, combining a bomber Gore-Tex outer liner with comfy, removeable fleece pants that are bolstered with Primaloft on the seat. $390; 686.com

WOMEN’S SHELL

COLUMBIA OUTDRY EX DIAMOND SHELL

Columbia created this tough resort jacket with a waterproof/breathable technology built directly into the fabric, rather than than sandwiched between inner and face materials. That makes it lighter without sacrificing any of its protective properties. $400; columbia.com

HOT HAND

OUTDOOR RESEARCH CAPSTONE HEATED GLOVES Heated gloves are not for everyone, but if you are the type who gets those poor cold hands easily, they can be a godsend. Built with Primaloft and Gore-Tex, the sturdy Capstone pumps out twice the heat of OR's previous Lucent heated models. $500; outdoorresearch.com

LET’S ROLL, BRAH

DOUCHEBAGS THE ORIGINAL

Yes, they said douchebags. Ok stop laughing. This ski/ snowboard bag system is the best travel solution we have hauled around the planet. It's easy to adjust the length and it even rolls down to a compact package when you don't have your gear in it. $249; douchebags.com

HEAD CASE

GIRO STELLAR MIPS

Dial in the fit on this stylish woman's helmet with a two-part shell that better conforms to your head shape. It also feaures a MIPS system, which helps prevent concussions by separating the soft inner liner from the outer shell on impact to mitigate the trauma. Top it off with a magnetic chin strap fastener and an integrated GoPro mount and you have a winner. $250; giro.com

MENS’S SHELL FLYLOW ALBERT

The Albert was designed for those who like to head out seeking the goods on hikes at Aspen Highlands or Crested Butte. This tough Primaloft micropuff is just warm enough to keep you toasty on the lifts but it's still light enough for athletic skiing and riding— and when you do get too hot on the way up, it packs away no problem. $420; flylowgear.com

BEFORE YOU GO OUT HERE

YOU NEED TO GET IN HERE

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Y Photo Jay Beyer

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NOVEMBER 4-6 Colorado Convention Center Fri: 12p to 10p Sat: 10a to 8p Sun: 10a to 6p

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ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

BEWI Productions, Inc. For exhibit info: 781.890.3234 • bewisports.com

• Flippenout Extreme Aerial Show • ELITEAM Fitness Challenge • Winter Park Kids Snow Park Learning Center • Rocky Mountain Beer Garden • SIA Nordic Village

photo / justin talbot

HEAR THIS

10 .16

GIVE ’EM HOLLER!WEEN

IN ITS 14TH ANNUAL INCARNATION, FORT COLLINS’ SPOOKY SEASON ANSWER TO BURNING MAN CELEBRATES EVERYTHING ALPINE WITH COSTUMES, COMMUNITY VIBES AND LOCAL MUSICIANS HOWLING AT THE MOON. by PATTY MALESH I was standing in an alfalfa field outside of Fort Collins on the last Saturday in October struggling with a Marie Antoinette wig and using the side mirror of my old Jeep Cherokee to perfect my eyeliner-born beauty mark. This was no ordinary costume party. No, I was about to trip the groove fantastic all night long in a pushup bra and hiking boots at one of the best kept secrets in Colorado. I had finally made it to Holler!ween. Now in its 14th year, Holler!ween is the unofficial (and somewhat secret, read on) end-of-festivalseason event in Colorado for those in the know. The brainchild of 2014 Telluride Troubadour Competition winner and frontman of The Holler!, Michael Kirkpatrick, the happening is a homegrown, communitycentered, one-night-only music festival and campout that harnesses the best bands, brews and bohemia in Northern Colorado and belays them into a heated circus tent. It then adds mandatory costumes, a circle of all-diets-accommodated food trucks, an all-night bonfire, and more LEDlit, hand-carved pumpkins than is prudent.All that in order to manifest a “party where archaic revival takes priority over everyday rules.” New York had Woodstock. Nevada has Burning Man. Colorado has photo by REBECCA OF SUNNYBROOK PHOTO

Holler!ween. Unlike the Fort Collins based New West Fest and the Tour de Fat (and the Tour de Corgi if that’s your thing), Holler!ween is charmingly townie. Since the very first Holler!ween took place in an abandoned skating rink in Greeley in 2003, through its few years at the historic Bellvue Grange building, into its time at the Red Barn donated by its kindly matriarch in exchange for a pre-show, musicianlabored “goat shit and pigeon carcass” cleanup, to the now secret-until-youbuy-your-ticket circus-tent location between Fort Collins and the Poudre, Holler!ween has maintained its forand-by-the-NoCo-community ethos. Indeed, the invite strongly suggests first timers “bring a guide.” “This is a gathering of The Holler! and Michael’s musical community, a call to the wild, a pause for a much needed ecstatic celebration with our friends and family,” says the invite. And while everyone is welcome, the event prioritizes an ever-expanding family of musicians and music lovers rather than making it onto clickbait listing “Best Fests of the West.” The motto of this feisty festy might be “freak freely” but the heart is more focused. Every year, event proceeds go directly to protecting the people, places, and wildlife Coloradans claim as our own. Proceeds from years past have been

donated to the Fort Collins Bike Co-op, W.O.L.F Sanctuary Colorado, The Sustainable Living Association, Flood recovery, the Larimer County Food Bank, and, not surprisingly, KRFC community powered radio’s Live Lunch show. The last of these donations helped KRFC buy new equipment to better showcase live local artists. This year’s theme is AlpenHoller—Celebrating Colorado’s 14ers and Alpen Culture. Attendees of Holler!weens past can expect this year’s fest to offer the same signature mixology of boogieinducing Colorado sounds as well as a surprise chaser or two of mustached Kirkpatrick panache. Last year, the crowdies were greeted by the Good Time Travelers, Kirkpatrick’s duo act with fellow Colorado darling (now turned Portlander) Pete Kartsounes. This year, there's talk of a Kirkpatrick-led metal act. Reprising her performance from Holler!ween XII, Qbala is back with her legit brand of hip hop for the masses. Also on the bill is Lyons-based singersongwriter and Loop Artist Arthur Lee Land. Kirkpatrick and his fellow organizers, Tony and Kellie Falbo, are keeping mum about who the late night/early a.m. psychedelic set artists will be for now. Whatever comes to pass, the crowdies can count on the highaltitude, mandolin-driven Indiegrass of The Holler! itself to highlight the night. After the amps go silent around 3 a.m., roll-call musicians and crowdies alike can take part in the campfire acoustic jam of any and all picking, plucking, strumming and

DRESS THE PART: COSTUMES ARE MANDATORY AT HOLLER!WEEN, AS ARE SURPRISE COLLABORATIONS UP ON STAGE.

drumming equipment that made it to the show. Musical collaboration is an event mainstay. And Michael and friends want to keep it that way. So start planning your costume now. Patty Malesh is the hostess with the mostest at The Castle B, Boulder’s only Rock & Roll themed “BudAndBreakfast.” She's a sucker for banjos and glam rock, and she was once winked at by Bob Dylan. She uses “Channel your Inner Bowie!” as a battle cry. She also has a PhD.

DRESS THE PART

HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW IF YOU, TOO, WANT BE A HOLLER!WEENER! (TRUST US. YOU DO.) 1) Costumes are mandatory. 2) Bring your own cup. 3) Bring two cans to donate to the Larimer County Food Bank to take home your free commemorative poster by local artist and muralist Kenn Penn. 4) Doors are at 7:00 p.m. Music at 8:00 p.m., Pre-show Camping/Set-up 2:00 p.m.+ 5) This is an outdoor event, although the stage/music/dancing is in a heated tent, so dress accordingly. Don’t want to stay all night? Free shuttle rides to and from Old Town Fort Collins are available (with reservations) courtesy of BioDieselForBands. Ticket Fee: $37.22 ($40 Door) includes camping and first draft beer Food Trucks (PM/AM): The Silver Seed, Nomad Street Cuisine, BUZZthru Espresso Buy Tickets Here: brownpapertickets.com/ event/2594387 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ events/288259081523371/ —P.M.

O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

THE ROAD

10 .16

BARE TRUTHS THE BEST WAY TO BEAT MULTIPLE SCLEROSIS AND BREAST CANCER? KEEP LIVING THE MOUNTAIN LIFE THAT FEEDS YOUR SOUL AND DON’T BE AFRAID TO TAKE YOUR SHIRT OFF ON THE SKIN TRACK. by DINA MISHEV

t’s a beautiful early spring day on Olive Oyl, a mountain just shy of 10,000 feet in Wyoming's southern Tetons. The skies are cloudless and Smurf blue, and my upper body is completely naked (and pasty white). This is not the first time I have skied Olive Oyl before—but it is the first time I have done it with my bare breasts exposed to the world. I have been on this peak twice before, which seemed like more than enough. Olive Oyl has good skiing but it can be tricky: The most direct line back to the base, its east face, is littered with double fall lines, terrain traps and deadfall so big it's often 48

only barely covered by snow, even an open, pyramidal slope of nearly in late winter. The first time here, perfect pitch—drowned it out. Also, 12 years ago, I even encountered when the image of me entangled in a particularly nasty pile of that that mass of deadfall appeared in my deadfall. Combined with a big dip in mind’s eye, I told myself, “It couldn’t the terrain—I blame flat light rather have been that bad, right?” And then than my skiing ability—it trapped I’d go immediately back to staring me. at that perfect pitch above me. “That I spent ten minutes dangling slope really looks killer. I’m an idiot upside down before I could extricate for not skiing Olive Oyl more often.” myself, first from my tele Skiing Olive Oyl with bindings and then from Carol did not involve the deadfall. It was bare breasts or run-ins the best (ok, and with deadfall, but, “Much of my life with worst) ab workout after the top 1,300 I’ve ever had. I feet, we suffered MS, and especially arrived at the 2,200 feet cancer, is about doing through bottom of the of erratic terrain. things I don’t want to.” I’m probably peak, my face the color of a beet exaggerating, but and puffy as a zeroI don’t remember degree sleeping bag, stringing together more than three turns before and promised myself, “never having to traverse. To get around a again.” mess of obstacles, we zigged and Never turned out to be six years later when I returned to Olive Oyl zagged across much of the mountain’s with my friend Carol. Skinning up, a east side. When we finally arrived at vague negativity niggled at the back the bottom, which ended up being no faster than it took to climb the peak, I of my mind, but the beauty of the top again swore to myself, “never again.” 1,300 feet of Olive Oyl’s east face—

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

THE GOOD PARTS: DESPITE ALL THE DEADFALL AND DOUBLE FALL LINES, OLIVE OYL DOES HAVE SOME GOOD SKIING, TOO. photo by DEREK STAL

ere I am a third time, however, talked into it by my boyfriend Derek. The memories of the suckage, annoyance, and suffering of the prior two times have dimmed (again). “It really can’t have been that bad,”—I tell myself. (again) Also, this time we’re planning an exploratory descent of the back side rather than skiing that nasty east side. From the backside, we’re going to exit via a canyon to the north instead of to the dreaded east. Talking me into this the night before, Derek sweetened the deal with some non-skiing activities—a back rub, a dinner out, cleaning the litter box. Despite these bonuses, a quarter of the way up, I realize things are about to go sideways. But I can keep them on course. By taking my top off. Toplessness is not part of any deal with Derek. Our negotiations the night before did not include me saying, “Add cleaning the cat box to the mix and I’ll skin up without a

shirt on.” When I take my basest base layer off, Derek is actually surprised my breasts are right there. “Oh, you mean really strip down,” he says. Yes. I’m skinning up Olive Oyl half naked because that’s the only way I can skin up Olive Oyl, at least without parts of my left leg going numb, the vision in both eyes blurring and eventually disappearing, and increasing the chances my latent lymphedema becomes active lymphedema. I’m skinning topless because of a perfect storm of circumstances that no one could have planned if they tried.

n 2006, at age 30, I was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis. In the decade since I’ve known I have this degenerative neurological disease, which no one knows the cause of or has a cure for, I’ve been doing quite well. Except when I get hot. This is true for many people with MS: Heat exacerbates symptoms of the disease. So I’ve been stripping down for some time. But it’s only been in the last year that I’ve stripped down and I was not even wearing a sports bra underneath. In December 2014, I was diagnosed with stage 3 breast cancer. Treatment included a double mastectomy and right axillary dissection. The former, of course, means the removal of breast tissue on both sides. The latter is medical speak for “removing a shit-ton of lymph nodes in the right armpit.” Once you’ve had lymph nodes removed, you’re in constant danger of developing lymphedema, painful swelling in a limb (in my case, my right arm) due to an underperforming lymphatic system. Wearing a sports bra, mostly because the tight band around its base impedes the movement of lymphatic fluid, increases the chances of developing lymphedema. Since 17 lymph nodes were removed from my right armpit in June 2015, I don’t wear sports bras. All this is to explain exactly why I am now one-quarter of the way up a peak I have said “never again” to twice before thinking I should stop and apply sunscreen to my chest. I don’t want to have gone through the last 18 months of treatment and surgery only to end up with skin cancer on my reconstructed breasts. I have no problem with toplessness—on beaches in Europe

“...a quarter of the way up, I realize things are about to go sideways. But I can keep them on course. By taking my top off.” and South America, I’ve taken off my bikini top and loved the feeling of sun on so much skin. (Except for that one time I neglected to put sunscreen on.) But on Olive Oyl, it’s not something I want to do; it's something I have to do. Much of my life with MS, and especially cancer, is about doing things I don’t want to. Until several years ago, the only treatments for MS were injections (daily, bi-weekly or weekly) or a once-a-month infusion that had the possible side effect of a deadly brain infection. I stuck needles into myself for years before starting the monthly infusion. Because anecdotal evidence shows diet can affect MS, I altered mine, cutting out my favorite food group, baked goods, among other inflammatory foods like alcohol and red meat. But these paled next to the things I suffered through to treat breast cancer: the double mastectomy and axillary dissection, radiation, hormone drugs that put me into

early menopause while my peers are planning play dates, reconstructive surgery, chemotherapy... Chemo was the worst. The side effects included not only anemia, chronic explosive diarrhea, hemorrhoids, near-constant bloody noses, and the need for a blood transfusion but also losing 15 pounds of muscle and a severely compromised immune system. It’s a long, long slog. Skinning without a top on, though? It's neither better nor worse than skinning with one on. It takes less than a switchback for me to get over my toplessness and get back to being annoyed by my AT bindings, which, this winter, has been a usual distraction from the effort of skinning. Half a dozen more switchbacks and Derek and I are at the bottom of the perfectly pitched final 1,300 feet. It’s quite warm, but the five inches of fresh spring snow are not sun-affected as we had feared. “How about we ski this?” Derek asks. My reply is quick: “Sure, it looks

THE PAYOFF: AFTER MONTHS OF CANCER TREATMENT, BARING YOUR BREASTS TO THE MOUNTAINS IS WELL DESERVED—JUST REMEMBER TO USE LOTS OF SUNBLOCK. photo by DEREK STAL

amazing!” And the turns are so good I forget the un-amaze-ness of the 2,300 feet below. Almost. As I type this, it’s been almost a year since my last dose of radiation. Radiation was the last part of my major treatment. Skinning back up to do a second lap on this face, I realize two things: My memories of the physical suffering of MS and cancer treatment are—like my memories of how horrible the skiing can be on Olive Oyl—fading. And, here, topless, in a place I keep saying “never again” to, I know that life isn’t just about doing things we don’t want to do. It is also about figuring out what we can do so that we can continue to do the things we want to. And sometimes that means topless skinning. October is National Breast Cancer Awareness month. Find out more about how to get involved here: nationalbreastcancer.org

O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

ELWAYVILLE

10 .16

THE POLITICS OF SKIING HOW TRUMP, WHISTLER AND DOGS WILL ALL WORK THEIR WAY INTO THE COMING SEASON. by PETER KRAY

ach ski season, one of my best buddies and I have a contest to see who can get away with the most outrageous season pass. Hulk Hogan, Super Mario, Guido Guy, Derek Zoolander and Sheriff Shred have all made an appearance in the previous years. Last year my buddy was Hunter S. Thompson. He had the amber sunglasses and pith helmet and cigarette holder. It was pretty good. I was Donald Trump (see page 6). With the big wig, the puffed up cheeks, a cardboard sign that said, “Trump 4 Shred King,” and that self-important glare. I thought it was the kind of joke that might last until Christmas. Like snowfall, there are some things you can’t predict, though. When I wore the same costume out for Halloween, I was very popular at one downtown eatery, then very unpopular at the brew pub, where all the hipsters who couldn’t be bothered to put on a costume kept giving me the stare. On our way to the third bar, a woman screamed, “I’m not voting for your sorry ass Trump!” as she drove by in a car. Once the lifts were actually spinning, the pass earned an equal mix of yays and bleahs. Boarding the summit chair on a powder day after “The Donald” had whipped up on his primary sparring partners the evening before, a liftie looked at my pass and said, “Thanks for your business Mr. President.” It shook me up a little. I told him, “Not yet, man.” And when I told my ski buddy I had a plan for this year’s pass, and it included another wig, he asked, “Hillary Clinton?” “No,” I replied. “I’m not mixing politics and skiing anymore.”

SKI WHISTLER

When I was growing up, my dad was a volunteer ski patroller on the llustration by KEVIN HOWDESHELL / kevincredible.com

weekends at Vail. I know I’ve said this a million times, but never once on a winter weekend did he ask what I wanted to do. Every Saturday morning your butt was in the backseat of the Volkswagen hatchback heading west on I-70. For years, I thought Vail was simply the greatest place to ski in the world. I had bought the t-shirt. The bumper sticker. And I had primed all my ‘back-in-the-day’ stories by the time I graduated high school. Then I started to ski places like Jackson, Whistler, Mammoth and Squaw. I skied Europe in Switzerland, Italy and, especially, Austria, where I quickly realized that Colorado has got it great, but there are dozens of huge, super steep areas that offer skiing on a far different scale. I do still love Forever, especially on a powder day. And Prima with the massive moguls. Look Ma whenever the sun is shining. Windows through the trees and Giant Steps at the end of the day. But there are a lot of other places I choose to ski these days. Like Whistler Blackcomb, for

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / OCTOBER 2 01 6

instance, and there’s the tale. Because as anyone who even remotely follows skiing noticed this past August, Vail recently purchased what many believe is the biggest, best ski area in North America. Like a breathtaking buffet of all the best areas in the U.S., Whistler offers endless bowls, blackdiamond couloirs, stick-the-first-fiveturns ridgelines, and perhaps out of all of North America’s great resorts, the most international feel. According to reports, it’s also the next place you can use your Epic Pass in 2017-18. Who knew that skiing Whistler on the cheap would make me consider buying a pass at Vail?

THE DOGS OF WINTER

On a final ski note, one of my favorite things ever is to be with dogs in the snow. But it’s been awhile since I skied with a dog, because one by one the whole crew just got worn out. The lone survivor, Bettie the Wonder Dog, a yellow lab with the sweetest smile, is almost 15. It’s been seven years since she saw the slopes. But she’ll still stand on the patio snuffling at the

scent of a winter storm on the air. Like many old ski dogs, she has an ankle scar from coming into contact with the edge of a ski on a powder day. She has a beautiful thick coat that goes from red to white each October. And she still comes out to help me shovel the drive when I get up early for the hill. Being together out in the dark of a cold morning feels better than just about anything. The solidarity in the harsh solitude. The way you appreciate someone else’s company even more when you don’t say a word. Lovers, brothers, best friends, ski friends—they all have that same quality. After this election season is over, I’m looking forward to a lot more of that kind of companionship.

—Elevation Outdoors editor-at-large Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing. The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” Don’t believe the hype? You can buy it here: bit.ly/godofskiing

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