Elevation Outdoors October 2017

SKI MOUNT BAKER | SNOW SAFETY BY THE NUMBERS | BEER HEROES OCTOBER 2017

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EST.

N

2003

mountain dress code

Mountain Khakis Flagship Store 1412 Larimer Square Denver, CO (303) 505-1566 MountainKhakis.com

Confluence Kayaks 2301 7th St. Denver, CO (303) 433-3676

, GOLDEN GTON AVEGATE.COM IN H S A W 1313 82 | BENT (303) 271 93

DON'T YOU WANT IT? TJ DAVID EATS UP ASPEN HIGHLANDS. OUR ANNUAL RESORT GUIDE WILL PREPARE YOU FOR THE WINTER.

CONTENTS OCTOBER 2017

photo by Liam Doran

DEPARTMENTS

7 EDITOR’S LETTER Why skiing matters.

8 QUICK HITS

WELCOME TO

r e t n i WSALE

6 – 15 OCTOBER

Canada’s Powder Highway, Baja bikepacking, a French press and more...

12 FLASHPOINT

How can ski patrollers, and mountain towns in general, survive the crush of low wages and a soaring cost of living?

15 HOT SPOT

Splurge on the Tordrillo Mountain Lodge.

16 THE TRAIL

Download the free ViewRanger app and ski to the top of Washington’s Mt. Baker.

19 NUMEROLOGY

FEATURES

23 THE COLORADO RESORT GUIDE

Are you ready for the ski and snowboard season? We have you covered with our annual guide to where to find stashes, craft beer and spirits, breakfast burritos and killer deals at our favorite Colorado resorts.

27 POWDER ROAD TRIPS

Of course, we love skiing and riding here in our home state of Coloado, but these four road trips to resorts outof-state will bring you steep lines, few crowds and untracked goodness.

42 RESORT GEAR

A new season screams for new swag.

We have you covered with our top picks for skis, boards, boots, shells, helmets and even a weatherproof vape.

The sobering facts of avalanche safety.

21 STRAIGHT TALK

Eldora's new marketing manager tells all!

47 HEAR THIS

Don't miss these hot Halloween shows.

48 THE ROAD

Confessions of an Alaska heli-ski cook.

50 ELWAYVILLE

ION

INAT T S E D S ’ O RAD

HOP S Y R T N U BACKCO RS

COLO FOR

4

EA OVER 20 Y

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KRISTI H SH*T FOR BRAINS COULOIR | SUMMIT COUNTY, CO PHOTO ALEX H

From roasted chilis to seeing the Broncos—your fall hit list is here.

Want more?

Catch up on past issues, your favorite bloggers and daily online content at ElevationOutdoors.com ON TH E C OV ER: SVEN B RU N SO ELEVATES ON M OLAS PASS N EA R SILVERTON , COLOR A DO. PH OTO BY: LIA M D OR A N / LIA M D OR A NPH OTOGR A PH Y.C OM

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CONTRIBUTORS

ElevationOutdoors.com EDITORIAL

10. 17

WHAT COLORADO SKI RESORT DO YOU CONSIDER YOUR SPIRITUAL HOME?

ED ITOR -IN -CH IEF

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com MAN AG IN G ED ITOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR ED ITOR

CHRIS KASSAR

chris@elevationoutdoors.com

CON TRIBUTIN G ED ITORS

AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, JAYME MOYE, TRACY ROSS, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN ED ITOR -AT-LARG E

PETER KRAY

C ON TRIBUTIN G WRITERS

JASON BLEVINS, JEDD FERRIS, MATTHEW KLICK, LILY KRASS, AVERY STONICH, BETSY WELCH ART + PRODUCTION A RT D IREC TOR

MEGAN JORDAN

megan@elevationoutdoors.com

SEN IOR D ESIG N ER

LAUREN WORTH

lauren@elevationoutdoors.com G RA PH IC D ESIG N ER

PAIGELEE CHANCELLOR

paigelee@elevationoutdoors.com

ADVERTISING + BUSINESS PRESID EN T

BLAKE DEMASO

blake@elevationoutdoors.com PU BLISH ER

ELIZABETH O’CONNELL

elizabeth@elevationoutdoors.com

SEN IOR AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

MARTHA EVANS

martha@elevationoutdoors.com AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

CONOR SEDMAK

conor@elevationoutdoors.com BU SIN ESS MAN AG ER

MELISSA GESSLER

melissa@elevationoutdoors.com C IRC U LATION MA N AG ER

HANNAH COOPER

hcooper@elevationoutdoors.com

DIGITAL MEDIA

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Everything feels right and good in my world when the Vail Back Bowls first open early in the season.

ELIZABETH O'CONNELL

My weekend warrior spiritual home is Copper, hands down.

But once-a-season, blissful, uninhibited by normal life, it’s Crested Butte.

CONOR SEDMAK

I've always felt most at peace in the trees and mogul runs of Mary Jane. I have a memory connected to about every run on the mountain, and the down-to-earth vibe makes it one of the friendliest resorts in the state.

CHRIS KASSAR

Monarch Mountain: Sweet powder. Family atmosphere. No lines.

Close to home. Simple drive. Plentiful terrain to keep me challenged and happy.

JASON BLEVINS

Mary Jane. From the dark timber of Topher’s to the far side of Bird Fart, the trees of the Jane have taught essential skills to girls who rip and their proud parents.

Plus, they still let me use my 1996 season-pass photo every year.

MATTHEW KLICK The Colorado backcountry!

ON LIN E D IR EC TOR

CRAIG SNODGRASS

craig@elevationoutdoors.com D IG ITAL MA N AG ER

TYRA SUTAK

tyra@elevationoutdoors.com E L EVATION OU T D O OR S M AGAZ I N E

2510 47th Street Unit 202 Boulder, Colorado 80301 (303) 449-1560 PU B L I SH ED BY

©2017 Summit Publishing, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

SUMMIT

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PUBLISHING

AARON BIBLE

For years it was Copper Mountain, where I proposed to my wife and lived a short bus ride away in Frisco. Now that special place for us is Eldora, where I plan to ski with my daughter every day for the next 20 years.

PETER KRAY

I’m grateful to have grown up skiing Vail, and these days I’m happiest enjoying the mellow vibe of Monarch.

FINDING MEANING

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

I

t has been a horrific year no matter your political beliefs. Hurricanes, earthquakes and wildfires have ravaged North America. Our public lands are in danger of being forever downgraded. Our political dialogue has devolved to the point where we have lost all ability to listen. We only react.

Nazis, motherfucking Nazis, marched through the streets of America and someone ended up dead (this happened right outside the office where our sister publication Blue Ridge Outdoors is headquartered and the designer for Elevation Outdoors works). Misogyny and racism have become accepted as some sort of excuse for failing to understand the difference between being born into privilege and being on the outside of the American Dream.

Discord sowers bankrolled by extractive industries continue to muddy the waters when it comes to basic science and the realities of climate change, all in the name of further polarizing our politics. We need real answers to these TASTE OF FREEDOM problems, and people serious about finding solutions EO CONTRIBUTOR AND MAD CANADIAN RYAN and engaging in dialogue rather than personal gain.

So I wonder, how, in the midst of all of this rancor STUART SHOWS OFF SOME OLD-SCHOOL and bad news, can I justify skiing. It is one hell of a STYLE ON THE SLOPES OF VERBIER, SWITZERLAND. privelged sport. It's a sad fact that in most mountain towns, the people who do the tough work have a hard photo by David Carlier courtesy of Columbia Sportswear time finding an affordable place for their families to live, never mind worrying about finding the newest Arc'teryx shell or a career that allows them to skip out on powder days. I know for a fact that many low-wage workers in mountain towns who recieve tickets as part of their benefits sell them off at a discounted ticket rate simply to raise some extra cash. Lifts churn through energy (though many resorts have made efforts to offset this fanciful use of natural resources). I know that I am damn lucky to have been able to dedicate a good portion of my life to something as meaningless when it comes to solving the world's problems as sliding down a mountain. Does this make me complicit in our national inability to face real issues?

I have been lucky, too, that I have traveled the planet to ski. Last year, I made turns in Verbier, Switzerland, and Courmayeur, Italy, on a product testing junket with Columbia Sportswear. I found powder turns in Santa Fe, New Mexico and the heart of the Colorado backcountry. Most Americans, especially those who face poverty, sickness and oppression, don’t traipse the globe—so I feel a responsibility as a writer to learn from my luck Here's the thing. Skiing does mean something. It gives us something we all need, a sense of joy and wonder out in the world. It may sound trite, but we can take what we know and experience out in the hills and try to bring that mindset to solving problems. One of the things I love best about skiing is how close you feel to the people who shred pow with you. I have met absolute social rejects who come alive once they are making turns (you know the type, yes?).

Long lift rides engender long conversations. Skiing is a privilege. But we can learn from that privilege and get back out in the world and try to impart some type of joy and understanding on those who need us to support them. We can use those lift rides to talk over solutions, to listen, to find ways to share this beautiful thing with those are not so lucky.

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QUICK HITS

10 .17

HEAD NORTH Looking for a winter road trip that will deliver significant snowfall and serious terrain? Point your grill to Canada’s Powder Highway.

SPANNING SOUTHEASTERN BRITISH COLUMBIA , Canada’s Powder Highway

claims the highest concentration of skiing and snowboarding in the world, with eight alpine resorts, dozens of heli and cat operations, seemingly endless backcountry (including huts and cabins), plus Nordic skiing and unlimited backcountry touring options. An exposé could fill an encyclopedia.

Here are a few choice operations worthy of digging for gold.

REVELSTOKE: Couloirs scratch down the Selkirk Mountains like

bear claws, revealing rugged peaks that bleed potential. Cat and heli-skiers have been tapping this untracked treasure trove for decades, and in 2007 Revelstoke Mountain Resort started spinning lifts to access this big-mountain terrain. With just two chairs and a gondola (and no crowds), Revelstoke delivers a mile vertical and over 3,121 skiable acres (nearly half advanced terrain). Go for glory (or humiliation) on “Kill the Banker,” a cliff-riddled run under the gondola.

Downtown oozes mountain culture. Bearded dudes swig beers in dive bars, outdoor shops offer deals on avalanche gear, and heli ops promise Nirvana. Eat pizza alongside locals at the Village Idiot (thevillageidiot.ca). To sample beer the local bears like, head to Mount Begbie Brewery (mt-begbie.com) and ask about the paw prints in the floor. revelstokemountainresort.com KICKING HORSE: You might get an ass-kicking at Kicking Horse, Revelstoke’s lesser-known

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but perhaps gnarlier neighbor.

Take 12 minutes to survey 4,000 feet of steeps from the gondola.

Terrain fans out over spiny ridges, with southern flanks plunging down gladed runs, and northern chutes that scream extreme. Not to worry, the adrenaline-averse can find easier runs for carving. kickinghorseresort.com When the alpenglow fades, head to pint-sized Golden (tourismgolden.com) and swill microbrews like Blower Pow IPA at Whitetooth Brewing Co. (whitetoothbrewing.com). Turnearners, note that Golden is a staging point for 20+ backcountry huts (info at cvhsinfo.org and alpineclubofcanada.ca).

PANORAMA: Forget everything you’ve heard about Panorama Mountain Resort. It’s not just for beginners. This season it’s adding to its double-black terrain with four new runs adjacent to Taynton Bowl. More expansion is slated for 2018-19. Hard chargers can also hop a helicopter from

GEAR WE LOVE

WHITE WALL PRIVELEGE FAR FROM THE MADDENING CROWDS ON THE EAST SIDE OF BRITISH COLUMBIA IN THE KOOTENAY ROCKIES, KICKING HORSE PONIES UP SOME OF THE BEST VERTICAL IN CANADA. THE STEEPEST OF THE INBOUNDS TERRAIN, LIKE THE WHITE WALL (PICTURED ABOVE) REQUIRES A SHORT HIKE AND A LONG LOOP TO GET BACK UP TO IT, MEANING THAT IT DOES NOT GET SKIED OUT ON A POWDER DAY. photo by Trent Bona/Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

the base to backcountry stashes. panoramaresort.com Another unusual perk: winter paragliding. Flying Max (flyingmax.com) soars skiers off the mountain for woozy views of the Purcell Mountains. To cap the day, schuss into mid-mountain après at Elkhorn Cabin to cook raclette on a tabletop griddle and tip back hot toddies. The ski down by headlamp is a hoot. Panorama is three-andhalf-hours from Calgary, unless you swing south to Kimberley (skikimberley.com) and Fernie (skifernie.com), but that’s a whole ’nother story.

—Avery Stonich

BOOKS

Stanley Classic Vacuum French Press

NASAR Skills Pamphlets

Note to summer campers: Don't stop camping just because it's winter! But take note, your all-important hot drinks will get cold fast when the mercury drops. This 48-ounce insulated vessel keeps your coffee steaming, whether you’re clambering out of your tent or fat biking to work. $65 | STANLEY-PMI.COM

To stay competent, you need to keep practicing all-important outdoor skills. To that end, the National Association for Search and Rescue developed two helpful skills-based pamphlets: Essential Knots and Basic Navigation. Printed on waterproof paper, they’re ideal for in-the-field practice. $10 EACH | NASAR.ORG

THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE WALL Get off the paved roads and spin the 1,700mile Baja Divide.

The new, off-the-grid bikepacking route takes in everything from singletrack to fish tacos.

THERE IS A WHITE T-SHIRT with a green

cactus on the front, hanging on the door of a small knickknack shop in Todos Santos, Baja California Sur. It reads in English and Spanish: “On the Right Side of the Wall/Del Lado Preferido de la Pared.” I think, I need to own this shirt.

It’s coming into winter on the U.S. side of the proposed wall and there is no better time to visit the preferido side than right now—and no better way to do so than by bikebacking. The Baja Divide is an off-road bikepacking route created by Nicholas Carman and Lael Wilcox, two experienced and intrepid bike travelers. Rather than sending riders from San Diego, California, to San Jose del Cabo down MEX1, the peninsula’s principal—and frankly, boring—North/South artery, the duo spent four months meticulously plotting a much richer, 1,700-mile course.

“In developing the Baja Divide," says Carman, “our main priorities were to help riders discover backcountry Baja, avoid paved MEX1, and make contact with unique places on the peninsula via routes that are fun to ride.”

The Baja Divide accomplishes just that: It's actually a package deal chock full of suggestions on how and where to camp (I recommend

THE REAL MEXICO IF YOU REALLY WANT TO EXPERIENCE BAJA'S SONORAN DESERT LANDSCAPES, AND FRIENDLY PEOPLE, GET OFF MEX1. photo by Nicholas Carman

half-constructed beachside resorts), where to ditch the frame bags and ride singletrack (cactus-strewn Vicente Guerrero), how long you will travel between water sources (three days at the most), and—most importantly—which towns have the best fish tacos and coldest cerveza (too many to note).

The Baja Divide website answers many important questions, such as when to ride (November to March), which direction to ride (North to South, with the prevailing winds), and what to wear when riding (bring one of everything: a long and short sleeved top, shorts and a long underwear bottom, a raincoat and a light jacket).

Its most invaluable assets, however, are the GPX files available to download and information on food and water resupply.

In many ways, browsing the Baja Divide website is like leafing through a Lonely Planet guide written by your hippest and most competent friend. The most important thing, though, is that you don’t get stuck dreaming behind the screen while your bike gathers winter dust in the garage. Real adventure awaits on the other side of the wall.

—Betsy Welch FOR MORE INFORMATION, CHECK OUT BAJADIVIDE.COM AND BE SURE TO CLICK THROUGH TO THE VIDEO ABOUT THE JOURNEY ON BIKEPACKING.COM. O C TO B E R 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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EAT, SLEEP, PLAY: WHITEFISH, MONTANA

Ditch the crowds in this soulful mountain town where locals enjoy days layered with untracked powder and craft beer.

EAT For a small town, Whitefish bustles. It has a rocking dining scene, complete with two breweries, a distillery, a variety of dinner options, and quirky late-night haunts—like The Great Northern Bar (greatnorthernbar. com)—where you’ll find cheap-beer specials and live music most nights of the week.

Craft beer fans get their fix at Bonsai Brewing Project (facebook. com/bonsaibrew/). Locals love the quaint taproom, but it’s the easy-drinking brews like Due North IRA (India Red Ale) that keep them coming back. For a post-shred refuel, head to Pescado Blanco (pescadoblancorestaurant.com)— where the kitchen serves balanced, hearty and healthy dishes. Kickstart your morning with a cup of coffee and 10

house-made baked pastries at Montana Coffee Traders’ (coffetraders.com) downtown location. If you’re staying on the mountain, devour nachos and an après adult beverage at the Hellroaring Saloon & Eatery (hellroaringsaloon. com).

SLEEP In true small resort town fashion, you won’t find chain hotels and generic lodging in Whitefish. Instead, visitors can choose from small, boutique hotels in town, and ample condos and townhouses scattered throughout the resort. If exploring Whitefish’s charming and historic downtown is in your plan, grab a room at The Firebrand Hotel (firebrandhotel. com)—a beautiful contemporary hotel located a block from the town’s main

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drag. Nightly rates at this gem start at $109. If spending all of your time up on the mountain is your top priority, book a room at one of Whitefish Mountain Resort’s lodging properties (skiwhitefish. com). Rates begin at $99 a night, and the resort also offers a handful of discounted packages, including a Ski & Stay and mid-week package.

PLAY Whitefish Mountain Resort lacks the crowds of a Colorado resort, but it certainly can have as-good or better snow. Tucked up in the northwest corner of northwest Montana, it boasts 3,000 skiable acres and 300plus inches of the white stuff each year.

Grab a lift ticket for a fairly reasonable $79 per day and head to the untracked

NORTHERN EXPOSURE NESTLED UP ON THE CANADIAN BORDER NEAR GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, WHITEFISH SEES LOTS OF STORMS BUT FEW CROWDS. photo by Glacierworld.com/Whitefish Resort

tree lines in Hellroaring Basin or the steeps of East Ridge—and lap away, friend. And defintely get in on the Moonlight Dine & Ski ($55 per person), which includes dinner on the top of the mountain and an instuctorled moonlight ski down. Get to nearby Glacier National Park for a quiet backcountry jaunt. Rent snowshoes from the Sportsman & Ski Haus (sportsmanskihaus.com) at the Whitefish resort’s base lodge, and head out on a free guided snowshoe walk in the park every Saturday and Sunday from January to March.

—Tyra Sutak

LOCAL HERO: ADAM AVERY

Meet a man who is committed to making the world a better place, one beer at a time.

MOST PEOPLE KNOW ADAM AVERY as the

HOPS IN THE DNA

man who brews great beer at Avery Brewing Company, and rightfully so. But, even more impressive is his consistent commitment to giving back to the community that has supported his brewery the last 24 years. His guiding principle since day one has been to seek out and support worthwhile causes. You have heard of cause marketing? Call this cause ... drinking.

In 2017, Avery Brewing will donate all of the proceeds from its three largest beer festivals: Strong Ale Fest to G.O.A.L.S., Sour Fest to Attention Homes, and its Anniversary Party to American Rivers, respectively, while also simultaneously raising funds for numerous local nonprofits the best way possible--by donating beer for them to use to make cash in any way they see fit. And if that’s not enough, they also sponsor five specific tap line donations during

LARRY AVERY (RIGHT) FOUNDED THE NOW NATIONALLY FAMOUS BREWERY WITH HIS SON ADAM (LEFT) IN 1993. IT HAS REMAINED A FAMILY BUSINESS. photo courtesy Avery Brewing Company

the year, with proceeds from sales boosting a designated charity. This year, they’re donating to Project Healing Waters, Pink Boots Society, Community Cycles, Colorado Greyhounds Association, and Drink for Pink. They’ll bring on new nonprofits in 2018.

When asked why he gives so much back to the community, Avery simply replies, “It’s the right thing to do.”

Do you feel you have a worthy cause? Avery Brewing Company will be accepting applications for nonprofits to work with next year all of October. Contact them at cheers@averybrewing.com for more information and to learn how to apply.

—Hudson Lindenberger

Gear Journal - O�TOBER

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O C TO B E R 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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FLASHPOINT

10 .17

CAN THE PATROLLER SURVIVE? Stuck dealing with the realities of dangerous work, stagnant wages and changing mountain towns, that icon of the American West, the ski patroller, faces serious challenges in the coming years.

by MATTHEW KLICK

“I

t’s hard to be a ski bum anymore,” says Tony Daranyi. A patroller in Telluride for more than 17 years, with a focus on snow safety.

Daranyi still looks the part, but has long since graduated from overcrowded dormitory style living to a farm 40 miles outside of town.

“You always had to be creative to scrape out a living in a mountain town, but it’s gotten a lot harder these days.”

Daranyi’s reflections echo those of patrollers and long-time residents of ski towns throughout the West.

From Bozeman to Summit County, from Telluride to Jackson Hole, wages have barely crept up over a decade or more (ski patrollers are among the worst paid professionals according to Department of Labor Statistics, making a median hourly wage of just $9.34 per hour in Colorado), while home prices, cost of living overall, and day-to-day demands have jumped dramatically.

In Summit County, the sale price of single family homes is up 18 percent over the past year. Add to this a changing corporate culture among high profile ski resorts that puts profits before community, and disenchantment, if not real anxiety and even depression, ensues.

“Cut, cut, cut,” says Daranyi of the realities of a profession that is having a hard time keeping employees happy. Last fall, Telluride patrollers ratified their first union contract, which should help, but the problems facing the profession are not going away soon.

Turnover is a challenge for ski patrols everywhere. From Bozeman to Taos, high-to-record 12

numbers of visitors have strained patrol resources, and put a heavier burden on younger, less experienced patrollers. At Breckenridge, the 2013 expansion that created “Peak 6” resulted in a string of exhaustionrelated injuries, with night rescues an almost daily occurrence. Many patrollers segued to their second job afterwards nevertheless. This is just the new normal in the New West.

THE CHANGING SKI TOWN

Stress and low pay affects more than ski patrollers, of course. Any number of ski town inhabitants— from those employed in small businesses and box retail stores alike, to teachers and firefighters— are finding it harder to make the allure of laid-back ski and snowboard culture square with making ends meet. Over the past five years, housing crises, homelessness, and even suicides have spiked at the base some of the most well-known ski resorts in the U.S. Add climate change to this mix, which despite its variability has measurably affected opening dates, and mountain communities are feeling the strain.

In the dry early months of the

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / O C TO B E R 2 017

LIFELINE 2016-2017 ski season, Aspen ALONG WITH THE COWBOY, THE BRAVE Ski Company SKI PATROLLER HAS (SkiCo) began BEEN AN ICON OF to feed its THE AMERICAN WEST. YET DEDICATED seasonal PATROLLERS REMAIN workers who SOME OF THE WORST were left COMPENSATED WORKERS IN THE unemployed, UNITED STATES. at least photo by Aaron Bible periodically.

Ski town food banks reported a surge in visitors.

Other low-wage service workers in and around Colorado ski areas live so precariously that a delayed opening day puts entire households at risk of food and housing crises.

In a mobile home park 40 miles from Vail, where a cluster of mostly Hispanic families lives, an entire dwelling might disappear overnight, according to a local non-profit worker who assists with insulating the steel-framed mobile homes and asked not to be identified.

In these cases, a family unable to span the dry stretch has usually fled to seek income, maybe somewhere south. Those who stay, brave the leanest months before restarting their 40- to 100-mile one-way commute to work as landscapers or in construction during the summer, or in ancillary ski-driven businesses

in the winter, like housekeeping, snowplowing or kitchen prep. On the one hand, the long commute allows for housing that these workers can (mostly) afford. On the other, they are not welcome in towns where rich visitors fly in to play. Their long commutes are forced upon them.

Not only aren’t they welcome, they are also subject to regular theft of wages and harassment. The U.S. Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC) successfully brought a $1 million suit against Vail Run Resort, a luxury condo association, after uncovering widespread and systematic abuse of female housekeepers in 2016. An EEOC attorney familiar with the case noted that her office doesn’t normally get involved in such local cases, unless, as it was in Vail, the abuse is “fairly widespread.” What also got EEOE’s attention was the extent to which victims were “threatened, extorted and marginalized.”

That’s just one aspect of an acute inequality problem. A 2016 study by the Keystone Institute recorded nation-leading levels of inequality among ski communities in Colorado, with Aspen’s Pitkin County leading the pack. This masks, however, the influence of low-income families tied to ski area employment that live in distant counties, unwelcome, and unable, to live closer to work. Widening the scope to ski area corridors regardless of the county would reveal more dramatic inequality rates yet in a state that is otherwise egalitarian.

Inequality, in turn, may feed a darker mountain town phenomenon.

The causal factors behind spiking suicide rates in ski towns can be debated, but inequality, housingrelated stress, and a lack of social cohesion in a transient setting are commonly acknowledged as key drivers of stress. Then there’s the problem of access to affordable health care. Whether or not the Affordable Care Act is repealed, premiums in mountain regions remain exceptionally high, putting health care out of reach for many of the locally self-, or semi-employed.

In its current form, the Western ski area economy is producing what economists might call significant negative externalities—costs to society that are unrecognized by markets, or in obvious dollars and cents. The ski economy, after all, is booming. But as costs mount— mental health, housing and income crises—the foundation upon which the economy rests erodes.

THE WAY FORWARD?

No single public policy can address these interlinking challenges, but clearly the integral role of low-wage workers in ski area operations, and by extension ski area communities, is under stress. But not all communities, nor all ski companies, are sitting by idly.

“My hope is to get to where Aspen is,” Tony Daranyi says, referring to the evolution of Telluride’s ski patrol union, which passed by a 50-1 vote in 2015 thanks in part to his leadership. Telluride’s ski patrol also unionized with the help of the Communications Workers of America (CWA). CWA’s key negotiator, Lew Ellingson, says the result is a “very, very, good first step, that treats patrollers as the professionals they are.” Moreover, “the support from the community was overwhelming,” hinting at potentially critical variable in determining the direction of a ski town going forward.

Aspen’s ski patrol union has become the gold standard. “It was hostile there for a while,” says a 40-year patroller familiar with the unionization process who asked not to be named. The company,

LAT

45.034169° N

But as costs mount—mental health, housing and income crises—the foundation upon which the economy rests is eroded. he claims, hired obstructionist managers, dragged out negotiations, and replaced negotiators who came around to patroller demands. “But it’s going strong now,” he concludes, with improved pay, stipends for acquiring necessary certifications, and multi-year contracts with far warmer relations with current ownership.

Ski company leadership has become another crucial component in addressing some of the core challenges that face mountain towns, and will be essential to build sustainability and overcome them. Successful unionization has hinged on a ski company—usually a region’s largest employer— committed to community development. Ski companies,

LONG

including Vail Resorts, have donated money to local health clinics, along with significant sums of money, and sometimes land, for “workforce housing.” How that money is spent, and for whom the housing should serve has become a new source of tension between towns and ski areas, however.

Other large employers in Breckenridge have extended their health insurance to even parttime and seasonal workers. This will be the key to change. Where towns and counties are hamstrung when it comes to creating policy, around, say, health insurance, the role of large employers will become increasingly more clutch. But towns are stepping up too, by luring less seasonal businesses, as in Aspen, or by subsidizing child care, to limit teacher turnover for instance, as has happened in Breckenridge.

Unions may not be the lone answer. They provide a glimmer of hope for some, but they don’t address other sectors, nor the risks to sustainability that go beyond patroller income and security. But as successful unionization efforts further suggest, the ability of diverse stakeholders to convene, to communicate openly, and to come together as a community with a zeal

for sustainability, might prove the most necessary traits separating those communities that adapt versus those that struggle most as they confront their urbanization, and its social costs.

Mountain town solutions could even provide a roadmap for national economic solutions. Communities that come together suceed in ways that would please those on the political left and right. Take Montana's Bridger Bowl, which operates as a nonprofit. State residents can become members, and members elect leadership.

Doug Richmond, a long-time Bridger Bowl patroller shrugs off unionization as a foreign idea. “I’m compensated enough for my work,” he says. “The General Manager is one of us, in the trenches, and the best avvie (avalanche) guy on the hill. As for turnover, it’s simple: Just treat people fairly.”

Operating as a team, and as a community, claims Richmond, has helped local patrollers at Bridger Bowl remain positive, even as Bozeman gentrifies, and skier visits climb steadily higher. Community and leadership, ultimately, might prove more necessary to addressing ski town challenges than any one public policy.

109.948425° W

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O C TO B E R 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / O C TO B E R 2 017

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10. 17

THE BIG SPLURGE Saving your pennies for the adventure skiing escape of a lifetime? Keep your focus on Alaska’s Tordrillo Mountain Lodge, where you can heliski untracked powder all day long and relax in a luxury lodge at night.

by CHRIS KASSAR

C

all Tordrillo Mountain Lodge (TML)— hidden deep in the Last Frontier’s interior at the foot of the Alaska Range—home for a week and you’ll be one of only a few lucky souls carving turns in an impressive landscape shaped by volcanoes and glaciers. After you’ve exhausted your quads exploring a tiny part of this massive playground, return to the high-end lodge and live like a 1-percenter. Sure, it may cost most of your annual salary, but aren’t a few years working in a cube worth a week of guaranteed untracked Alaskan powder and luxury accommodations? You be the judge.

THE GOODS

Alaska’s most remote and exclusive (a week here will run you upwards of $12,000) heli skiing and snowboarding lodge is a private powder playground, but it’s well worth it to have your own personal access to 1.2 million acres of thigh-deep fluff and countless face shots on long runs that rack up 5,500 feet of vertical bliss.

Accessible only by helicopter, the jagged peaks, wide-open bowls and narrow chutes of the Tordrillos are reachable only via a 45-minute floatplane ride from Anchorage to Judd Lake and the lodge. Storms come in hot, dumping an average of 600 inches (50 feet) per year, and extended high-pressure systems create bluebird days and stable snow conditions. Tordrillo terrain is steep—lines average in the 30-degree range, but don’t be intimidated: No one’s gonna make you huck cliffs or navigate fall-and-die territory.

And the guides are masters at finding runs that inspire intermediates and experts alike. A 10- to 50-minute helicopter flight delivers you to the terrain most appropriate to your ability. And, because the lodge purchased its own helicopter and added remote fueling locations, Tordrillo won’t waste your time, but instead it will blitz you with more vertical feet in a day than your legs can probably handle. When your quads hit overburn, take a minute to look around. That hulking mass on the northern horizon is 20,320-foot Denali, North America’s highest peak.

THE GUIDES

Whether they are pioneering a new line or repeating a classic, Tordrillo’s guide team—each with a mandtory 15 years of experience—brings an unmatched enthusiasm and passion to sharing their home, which averages 600 inches of pow each year. By continually evaluating your ability,

they not only make sure you’re having a blast, but also ensure your skills progress over the duration of your visit. Plus, since founders and owners— long-time Alaska heli ski operator Mike Overcast and Olympic gold medal skier Tommy Moe— aren’t content with just running operations from the office, you’ll likely get to explore this special part of the Alaska Range alongside these legends, who also happen to be the very guys responsible for pioneering the region’s skiing.

THE GOODNESS

After a day of crushing new personal records for vertical feet of pow shredded in one day, you’ll return to the cozy and recently expanded lodge on the shores of Judd Lake. Soak sore muscles in the wood-fired hot tub, indulge in a massage or

Need to Know Yes, the price tag is scary— hovering between $12,000 and $14,000 for a week. However, the magic of this place, the memories you’ll make, and the powder dreams you’ll fulfill are without a doubt, splurge-worthy so go for it (or start saving your pennies!). Plus, that price includes gourmet meals.

sweat it out in the sauna PAY DAY before plunging in the ADD IT UP: TML ACCESSES 1.2 MILLION ACRES icy waters of the lake.

CLASSIC ALASKAN Or lounge by the fireside OF TERRAIN. THE SNOW GODS in the cozy living room BLESS IT WITH OVER 600 INCHES OF POWDER EACH with a local craft brew AND CONDITIONS or glass of prized Tuscan YEAR ARE FAIRLY STABLE. RUNS Sassacaia. Chill until HERE GO ON FOR OVER dinner—often local wild 5,000 VERTICAL FEET. ISN'T game like elk or pheasant THAT WORTH BIG BUCKS? photo courtesy TML and Alaskan seafood including fresh king crab and Kachemak Bay oysters. (In the summer, guests eat the salmon they catch served with veggies from the lodge's garden.)

And get stoked for another day in a white room only a relative handful of skiers ever see.

It gets bigger. Starting in March 2018, TML will join forces with Winter Lake Lodge, a highend retreat located 30 miles away also known for first-class accommodations and gourmet dining. The two remote fly-in lodges will offer combined seven-night packages that allow skiers and snowboarders to explore even further north into the Tordrillos.

Book soon. A lot of people must have $12,000 squirreled away for powder skiing, because TML fills up in a hurry (typically by the start of the new year). Trips run almost yearlong and include Winter 2018 Heli Ski/Boarding Packages (mid-Feb to mid-April), Kings & Corn (fishing and skiing in June) and Summer 2018 Fish & Ski Packages (July to September).

TORDRILLOMOUNTAINLODGE.COM

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POWERED BY

THE TRAIL

10 .17

GET THE FREE APP

AND FOLLOW THIS ROUTE ON IPHONE, APPLE WATCH, IPAD AND ANDROID DEVICES.

SKI MOUNT BAKER

Download the free ViewRanger app and the coordinates to take on this big-mountain ski tour to the top of one of the Pacific Northwest’s towering volcanoes.

I

THE LONG SLOG SKIING TO THE TOP OF WASHINGTON'S 10,788-FOOT MOUNT BAKER REQUIRES A BIG PUSH OF 7,000 VERTICAL IN JUST 5.5 MILES. photo by Chris Kassar

16

GET TRIP INFO

SEE MORE ROUTE DETAILS, GPS DATA & PRINT MAPS. VIEWRANGER.COM/eleout

by CHRIS KASSAR

t's no secret that Mount Baker Ski Area gets dumped on—it holds the world record for most snowfall in a season with 95 feet over the winter of 1998-99. And as a popular lift-served destination, it’s getting more and more crowded by the year. But if you want to experience the slopes of the Pacific Northwest sans people, head to the resort's namesake. Washington’s third-highest peak, 10,778-foot Mount Baker stands just a stone’s throw from the Canadian border. On this snow-covered volcano, you’ll find a mountaineering adventure rife with deep pow opportunities. With permanent snowfields, 12 glaciers, and an average of 50 feet of snowfall each year, the peak is skiable year-round— just be sure to monitor conditions, know your avalanche safety and watch the weather.

You’ll find plenty of technical challenges on the peak, but the popular Coleman–Upper Deming Glacier route, which gains 7,000 feet in 5.5 miles, delivers sweeping views and a relatively straightforward ascent if conditions and visibility align.

Remember, it’s a technical glacier climb: Ski mountaineers should have helmets, crampons, ice axes and ropes, and they must posses proficient glacier, navigation, travel and rescue skills.

Permits are not required, but the Forest Service urges parties to register

VIEWRANGER.COM

at a nearby ranger station. For more info go to tinyurl.com/yarjy6fh.

1. TRAILHEAD

From I-5 just north of Bellingham, Washington, drive east on SR 542/Sunset Highway. One mile east of the Glacier Public Service Center, turn right (south) onto CR 39/Glacier Creek Road and continue nine miles to the trailhead at 3,700 feet. The road remains snow-covered until approximately mid-June so plan to drive in as far as possible and then hike or skin to the trailhead. From here, work your way uphill through dense forest as you follow the Heliotrope Ridge Trail, which is completely snowcovered in winter and spring.

2. CLIMBER'S ROUTE

Hogsback Headwall, the route eases a bit and gradually ascends along Heliotrope Ridge. Near Point 7242, veer left (southeast) to leave the ridge and climb below another ridge of rugged, rocky peaks where you’ll likely see tent campers.

5. COLEMAN SADDLE

Be aware of avalanche conditions and wary of rockfall as you skirt along the Black Buttes. Continue up as the route curves directly east to gain the 9,200-foot saddle between Colfax and Grant Peaks. Head left (northeast) and stay right of the Roman Wall as you ascend the Pumice Ridge, a rocky, icy spine with an incredible view. Depending on snow conditions, you might want to leave skis/ snowboards at the saddle.

After crossing Kulshan Creek, the trail curves left, wraps around a small ridge and forks. Take the right path (the left heads to Glacier View) and follow the climber’s trail up. It soon punches above treeline, delivering clear views of the peak.

6. HEADWALL

3. HOGSBACK CAMP

Baker’s a volcano and its highest point (called Grant Peak) is actually a 1,300-foot-deep mound of ice hiding a massive crater. From your perch towering above the surrounding landscape, revel in views of the Twin Sisters, Picket Range, Mount Shuksan and Puget Sound. Retrace your steps for the descent, utilizing skis when you feel comfortable and remaining aware of crevasse and avalanche dangers.

Head up the lateral moraine to reach camp and the start of the glacier at approximately 6,000 feet. We suggest spending the night here.

There are higher spots to bivvy, but Hogsback offers sheltered, flat sites and makes a prime start for a reasonable summit day.

4. BLACK BUTTE CAMP After climbing steeply up the

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / O C TO B E R 2 017

Leaving the ridge behind, begin scaling the upper Deming Glacier as you tackle the steepest pitch yet on the route to reach the wide, inviting plateau that leads to the summit.

7. SUMMIT

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—C.K.

ED BY

ED BY

Your Season Starts Here!

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O C CT am . 6 p thD ec Sha 7th ke dy , 2 0 rs , C Bro 17 o O k

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E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / O C TO B E R 2 017

NUMEROLOGY

10 .17

BE SNOW SAFE Play the numbers when it comes to avalanche training and awareness.

by LILY KRASS

T

he allure of fresh powder, the glamour of steep couloirs, and the serenity of skins swooshing on snow are drawing more and more adventure-seekers into out-of-bounds terrain each season. Traffic in the backcountry is soaring exponentially and it’s easy to get caught in a false sense of security when you have 4G on the skin track and you can’t go out for a dawn patrol without running into a few people you know. As the volume of Type II enthusiasts climbs each season, it’s important to remember the importance of solid avalanche education, because the best gear in the world won’t help you if you don’t know how to use it. Winter is upon us, so here are a few stats to get your brain warmed up as you get ready to head out into the backcountry.

Total avalanche deaths in Colorado since 1950.

Colorado has the highest rate of avalanche deaths in the United States, with almost double the amount of any other state.

30°-45°

SKIN TRACK CHECK-IN SKIERS HEADED UP TO THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB'S ARESTUA HUT FROM THE ELDORA NORDIC CENTER CHECK THEIR SAFETY GEAR. photo by Cameron Martindell

THREE Pieces of equipment that make up the backcountry survival trio. While there are many other pieces of gear you should have with you in the backcountry, your beacon, shovel and probe are three things you should always carry.

15

Minutes you have to dig out a victim with a 93 percent survival rate. This number drops down to 27 percent after 35 minutes. This number does not include victims killed by trauma.

Date of Arapahoe Basin's 16th Annual Beacon Bowl. Think you've got your beacon search down? A Basin organizes a beacon search competition, demonstrations, and a legendary beach party in the name of safety.

$0

Cost to attend a one-hour Know Before You Go class.

While not a substitute for formal avalanche education, KBYG's avalanche awareness presentations offer useful information to those new to backcountry travel as well as a nice preseason refresher for those well-versed in snow safety.

Find a class near you online at kbyg.org.

Slope angle that avalanches are most likely to occur on— these are also conveniently the most fun slope angles to ski. Lower angle slopes seldom slide and slopes steeper than 50 degrees slough often enough that they rarely create slabs.

Hours in AIARE’s new Avalanche Rescue course. New for the 2017-2018 season, AIARE separated the companion rescue portion to free up valuable time in the Level 1 course for more in depth preventative education. The Avalanche Rescue course is for beginners and experienced backcountry travelers to practice and develop their companion rescue skills. avtraining.org

200+

THIRTY-NINE

Miles per hour an avalanche can reach as it gains mass.

Average number of avalanche deaths per season in North America over the last 10 years.

ONE HUNDRED AND NINE

Number of American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE) course providers in the US. AIARE provides standardized curriculums for all experience levels of backcountry travelers, from novice to professional.

Sign up for a course and get educated at aiare.info/ providers_list.php.

93

Percent of avalanche accidents triggered by the victim or someone in the victim’s party. Your terrain selection is the only factor you can control out there, so smart decision-making and communication is extremely important.

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STRAIGHT TALK

10 .17

SAM BASS The new marketing director at Eldora wants you to ditch work, bring the family and get back to the roots (and future) of skiing and snowboarding.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

S

am Bass knows skiing. After all, Eldora’s new marketing director worked at Skiing magazine in Boulder for 12 years, five of those as editor-in-chief. That gig had been his dream job—until he found work that includes spending every day at his local ski hill and getting paid to convey the stoke of the experience.

Born and raised in Maine, where his family was deeply involved in the ski industry, Bass attended Colorado College, where he met his future wife.

Like most ski bums, he meandered professionally for a while: He taught high school English, chased fantasies of becoming a whitewater kayak slalom racer and took an editorial internship at Outside magazine that put him on the journalism track.

He left Skiing to run content at Carbondalebased Backbone Media before accepting the job at Eldora, which recently changed ownership, in August. He talked to us about the soul of skiing.

?

WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO ELDORA AFTER SO MUCH TIME ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE ROPE?

It was a dream job and I couldn’t let it slip by, even though I was really enjoying my work at Backbone Media. I was already a devoted Eldora local, and have been for 15 years. I’ve taught my kids to ski here and I love the place. In my family, we were taught the doctrine of fierce loyalty to one’s home hill. We were Sugarloaf [Maine] patrons, raised to ride for and defend and love that place. Discovering I’d have Eldora as my home hill if we moved to Boulder and knowing it would become the place I’d raise my kids in skiing, was a big appeal for me. Eldora is my home hill now.

?

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT ELDORA?

I love the intimacy of the mountain. It’s the kind of place where you can turn your kids loose with their ski pals and not have to worry about them getting lost in some vast back bowl. You know there’s other locals like you looking out for them, and for everyone.

?

WHAT ELDORA UPDATES HAVE YOU EXCITED?

Hands down, the most exciting development is the brand-new, six-person Alpenglow Chair on the mountain’s front side. It’s Eldora’s first-ever high-speed, detachable lift, and it replaces two old fixed-grips. The ride time will drop from about 14 minutes to about four-and-a-half minutes so it will completely change the way our guests experience the mountain. All of a sudden, Eldora is the best place to pack a ton of skiing into a short window, like a two-hour pre-work weekday

“WE WANT ELDORA TO BE A PLACE WHERE YOU CAN COME UP, TAKE A FEW RUNS, WORK FROM THE LODGE, AND THEN SKI SOME MORE. YOUR BOSS WILL NEVER KNOW.” session. Given the proximity and ride time, you can’t beat that bang for your buck in the greater Boulder-Denver area. All told, we’re investing more this year than we have in the previous 25 years combined, so besides the lift, guests will enjoy new food and beverage offerings, nicer restrooms, better WiFi and many more detail refinements. We want Eldora to be a place where you can come up, take a few runs, work from the lodge, and then ski some more. Your boss will never know.

?

HOW DO YOU CONNECT TO THE SOUL OF SKIING?

Anytime I’m out on the hill with my kids, watching them laugh and follow one another into the trees and make great turns, I’m connecting with the soul of the sport. I’m also connecting when I’m out skinning at dawn as the sunrise hits

Eldora’s eastern flanks, or if I can crack a joke as the race starter and calm the nerves of a young racer as she leaves the gate, or if I’m logging a quiet afternoon solo lap in Salto Glades.

IS THERE ANYTHING RESORTS AND SKIERS/SNOWBOARDERS CAN REALLY DO WHEN IT COMES TO CLIMATE CHANGE?

?

DEEP DEDICATION BASS, WHO GREW UP RACING AND PLAYING AT MAINE'S SUGARLOAF AND WENT ON WORK AT SKIING MAGAZINE FOR 12 YEARS, BRINGS A JOY FOR THE SPORT TO ELDORA. HERE, HE BIKES IN TO FIND SPRING TURNS IN THE INDIAN PEAKS BEFORE THE BRAINARD LAKE ROAD HAS OPENED. photo by Josh Povec

Absolutely. Resort guests everywhere should demand meaningful sustainability efforts from the resorts they patronize. Resorts need to make serious company-wide commitments to sustainability and efficient energy use in order to protect the playgrounds that serve as the foundations of their business. Skiers and snowboarders can carpool, or take public transportation like the RTD bus route that serves Eldora, and resorts should incentivize these behaviors. And not to say that uphill skiing is the answer to the world’s problems, but I honestly think I’m a more invested global citizen after a good skin up a mountain in cold, fresh air.

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COLORADO RESORTS

10 .17

DOWNLOW FOR OUR 2017-18 COLORADO RESORT GUIDE, WE DISH UP THE MOST IMPORTANT NEED-TO-KNOW INFORMATION FOR THE STATE'S BEST RESORTS—HERE'S WHERE TO FIND STASHES, ESCAPE THE CROWDS, CHILL WITH THE LOCALS AND GET DOWN AND PARTY.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

LOVELAND WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

Loveland endures. The ultimate Colorado locals’ mountain stays that way because the parking is free (and friendly), the luxury condos non-existant, the terrain challenging and the drive tolerable.

GO HERE

Sign up for free cat rides and make laps on The Ridge and (new this year) Dry Gulch—or grab a free uphill pass and earn some turns.

DON'T MISS

Beginners and kids will appreciate the 3-Class Pass: Three days of lessons and rental gear and a full season pass upon completion (starts at $366).

APRÈS HERE

Watch the Broncos at Rathskeller.

ELDORA WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

You do not have to drive I-70 to start. Beyond that, it’s a true skier’s mountain with plenty to explore.

GO HERE

Salto Glades dish up the stashes and steeps.

DON'T MISS

The new high-speed six-pack lift! (See page 21) APRÈS HERE

On mountain, head to the Timbers Tap room for a Bloody Mary and free WiFi. In Nederland, relax with a pint at Salto Coffee Works (saltocoffeworks.com).

A RISING TIDE MAKE FRIENDS WITH THE STEAMBOAT LOCALS AND THEY WILL BRING YOU TO THEIR SPECIAL SPOTS. photo by Ben Duke

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BRECKENRIDGE WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

For all the hordes of package tour trips and outof-state Barneys who flood the place, Breck has managed to hang on to its soul thanks to a fierce local community and plenty of underrated terrain.

SKI HERE

Head to Peak 6 on a pow day and enjoy a slice of the resort where the core congregates. Hike the Lake Chutes for a shot of steeps and lingering stashes.

DON'T MISS

Stop at the church in the woods just above the Vista Haus (it’s a great local meeting place).

APRÈS HERE

It’s a party town so your options are vast, but be sure to check out Breckenridge Distillery (breckenridgedistillery.com) for a bourbon.

TELLURIDE WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

The hike-to terrain simply rocks. Oh, and those big, sweeping San Juan views mean that even just bombing the groomers is a beautiful experience.

GO HERE

Seek out that hike-to terrain: Palmyra Peak offers some of the best in-bounds big-mountain skiing in Colorado and boasts big cliffs and steep open faces.

you need to adapt to the conditions, too. Even on a powder day, the Back Bowls can hide suncrust under the soft stuff. Try the front side. Northwoods is practically a resort all on its own.

DON'T MISS

DON'T MISS

Avoid the crowds racing for the top on a powder day and just lap Chair 7 instead.

Yoga classes with EO contributor, Vail local and Colorado Yoga + Life magazine owner Kim Fuller.

APRÈS HERE

APRÈS HERE

The Victorian-era New Sheridan (newsheridan. com) reaks of townies enjoying downtime.

Eat some pizza and then get down (and try to stay out of trouble) at Vendettas (vendettasvail.com).

COPPER MOUNTAIN

SKI COOPER

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

Copper is a big mountain with a tight commuity vibe. Credit that to the free parking, free snowcat and young guns training here to be future stars.

The pace slows down and the true hardcore mountain folk come out of the woodwork to enjoy the all-natural snow and family vibe here.

GO HERE

GO HERE

The Enchanted Forest dishes out the best of what Copper has to offer. It starts up above treeline and then gives you options down into the woods.

Head to Eagle on the backside. Then hit Piney and Burnout to pick up the pace. Book a day on the Chicago Ridge snowcat if you want to harvest pow.

DON'T MISS

DON'T MISS

The Tucker Mountain snowcat, silly! As mentioned, it’s free and accesses big, open bliss.

The 10th Mountain Division Day in March when active military shreds and you can learn the history of the soldiers who brought skiing to the state.

LIVING THE DREAM A PACK OF MARMOT ATHLETES CELEBRATE THE FACT THAT THEY GET TO CALL EXPLORING THE CHUTES AND POWDER GLADES OF TELLURIDE'S 2,000 SKIABLE ACRES WORK. AND YOU? WELL YOU CAN ALWAYS CALL IN SICK. photo by David Clifford

DON'T MISS

The Festival of the Brewpubs in May— when you can still ski and snowboard in the sun.

APRÈS HERE

APRÈS HERE

JJ’s Rocky Mountain Tavern (bit.ly/2wJMTax) is the place for Jagerbombs, football and war stories.

APRÈS HERE RAPAHOE BASIN

Order a Bacon Bloody Mary, listen to live music and catch up on sports scores at the 6th Alley Bar. MONARCH MOUNTAIN WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

Monarch delivers diverse terrain with natural snow, huge sunny bowls, finger chutes, wide open groomed runs, stunning views, a terrain park and an amazing family friendly atmosphere.

GO HERE

Hike Mirkwood Bowl—a short walk delivers steep terrain with plenty of stashes. Take the kids through the fun Pinball Gully. Try to keep up.

DON'T MISS

Monarch’s cat ski operation extends the reach of the mountain on fun, steep shots.

VAIL

Book dinner at the ski- or snowshoe-in Tennessee Pass Cookhouse (tennesseepass.com/thecookhouse). Reservations are required.

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

ARAPAHOE BASIN

Nothing soothes sore quads like a soak at Mount Princeton Hot Springs (mtprinceton.com).

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

ASPEN SNOWMASS

Seriously? It’s Vail. For all we dump on it, it is still one of the absolute best places on the planet to ski and ride. It has something for absolutely everyone, even family members who don’t get on the snow.

GO HERE

Think Silver Linings Playbook: You need a strategy. Vail is so big and so crazy on a powder day, you will want to plan your way around the mountain. We like a circuit that starts in Game Creek Bowl, then takes in Sundown Bowl and Tea Cup Bowl before heading to Blue Sky Basin. But 24

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The Basin is an experience. It’s an easy haul from the Front Range. You can chill and cook out on the Beach, and the place makes it easy for families to ski. The season here practically runs all year long and when the East Wall opens up you get to access some of the steepest terrain in Colorado.

GO HERE

Head to the Montezuma Bowl trees where powder stays fresh—even for a few days after a storm.

APRÈS HERE

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

Despite its hyped-up reputation as a posh playground for the ultra-rich, Aspen has one of the most hardcore ski communities around—and that said community shreds four awesome mountains, each with its own unique personality.

GO HERE

Want to scream top to bottom like a ski racer?

Head to Aspen Mountain— the gondola whisks you up over 3,000 vert to the top in under 15 minutes. Seeking hikes to deep stuff, the Bowl at Highlands is your jam. Buttermilk is the absolute best intermediate mountain around, a real confidence builder for kids. And Snowmass, often overlooked, serves up freshies long after a storm.

CRESTED BUTTE

WOLF CREEK

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

Snowmass will celebrate its 50th Anniversary by offering $6.50 lift tickets on December 15, 2017.

There’s a damn good reason why Crested Butte has won best town and best ski town in numerous Elevation Outdoor reader polls. This is a town, with real people, not a “ski town” with far too many transients and corporate wonks. It also embraces adventure. From mountain biking to telemarking to fat biking, The Butte has always been on the cutting edge of mountain town culture.

APRÈS HERE

GO HERE

DON'T MISS

Be a beautiful person and hoist a cocktail in the hot tub at the Sky Hotel (theskyhotel.com) at the base of Aspen. In Snowmass, we suggest sangria and fresh guacamole made at your table at Venga Venga (richardsandoval.com/vengavenga).

PURGATORY WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

It’s far, far from the maddening crowds. Beyond that relief, Purgatory is an underated little gem.

GO HERE

Chair 8 is where you will find the most action and Chair 5 can hold stashes, especially when it’s not running. Hit the trees on Lower Hades.

DON'T MISS

This season, Purgatory opens up new blue and black terrain and new hike-to glade skiing.

APRÈS HERE

Hit trivia night at Ska Brewery (skabrewing.com).

The North Face always serves up a thrill. If you want to get away from everyone, head to Teocalli 2 Bowl. We also have a weird affinity for the hike out to the Banana Peel’s south-facing chute. Not comfortable on the scary stuff ? New this year, CB North Face Guides will take expert skiers and riders out into extreme terrain to help them get their legs and learn how to navigate dangerous slopes and build confidence.

DON’T MISS

The Fat Bike World Championships (cbchamber. com/events/fat-bike). If you ever dreamed of riding a bike down a ski slope with wild abandon, now is your chance—or just watch the carnage.

APRÈS HERE

Try pies from the new pizza oven at Paradise on the mountain at Crested Butte. When the day is done, find a seat at Montanya Distillers tasting room (montanyarum.com/tasting-rooms) and sip on some rum concoctions. Bonus points if cofounder Karen Hoskins shakes them up for you.

Wolf Creek gets the most snow in Colorado, a glorious average of 430 inches every year (much of it often at the start of the season). That fact alone attracts powder pilgrims, but the independent resort also boasts great terrain and a family friendly scene.

GO HERE

Hike to the glades below Horseshoe.

DON’T MISS

The new coverd Lynx Lift will service beginner terrain, and keep the groms happy while you shred.

APRÈS HERE

Get down the pass to Pagosa Springs and shoot pool at The Coyote Moon then grab dinner and sip suds at Riff Raff Brewing (riffraffbrewing.com).

POWDERHORN WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

You can ride snow one day and then head down to Grand Junction and ride singletrack the next.

GO HERE

Powderhorn is all about the tree skiing. Head to the West End and duck into the Mad Dog Glades.

DON'T MISS

The Ski Patrol Ski Alongs—you’ll get special insight on the terrain and may learn something.

APRÈS HERE

Belly up to the Powderhorn Pub at the bottom.

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ROAD TRIPS

10 .17

EXPAND YOUR

BOUNDARIES WANT TO GET AWAY THIS WINTER? THESE FIVE ROAD TRIPS WILL BRING YOU POWDER, NEW FRIENDS, CHALLENGING TERRAIN AND KILLER DEALS BEYOND THE BORDERS OF THE CENTENNIAL STATE. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

1. JACKSON HOLE,

Just down the road from the mountain, Buck’s T-4 (buckst4.com) is the best place to stay and eat casual or foodie-pleasing meals.

PASSES: Big Sky is not affiliated with any pass programs but you can find multi-day tickets on the resort’s website at buy.bigskyresort.com.

LIVE IT UP:

WHY YOU MUST MAKE THE DRIVE: How can you call yourself a skier or snowboarder without making a yearly pilgrimage to the promised land of steep and deep? Even during high-pressure-sytem down times, Jackson's terrain and stashes deliver.

THE GOODS: The resort could keep you entertained for a lifetime, but quite often we ski and ride Jackson simply by taking the tram to the top and spending the day lapping the backcountry out the gates. There’s something for all comers here, from the easily accessible powder on Four Pines to the epic, must-do-once excursion out Granite Canyon.

LIVE IT UP: All roads on the mountain lead to the Mangy Moose Restaurant and Saloon (mangymoose.com), where bands from Blues Traveller to Burning Spear have played over the years. You may end up doing something you regret here. Also, be sure to take the time to visit the brand-new Melvin Brewing (melvinbrewing. com) facility and taproom in Alpine, Wyoming, about a 45-minute drive from the resort.

PASSES: Jackson Hole is a member of the allencompassing Mountain Collective. The $469 pass gives you two days each at 16 iconic ski resorts, including the Aspen Snowmass resorts and Telluride here in Colorado, and a bevy of bonuses.

WHY YOU MUST MAKE THE DRIVE: Just a five-hour trip away (we have spent longer trying to get from Denver to Vail), Taos is one of North America's classic big-line ski hills. Even with a massive overhaul under way, it’s rarely crowded and often serves up blue-sky powder days with that distinctive smell of New Mexico pinyon pine in the air.

THE GOODS: The new Kachina chair ferries you up to long, steep lines on the Ridge that you used to have to hike to earn—don't worry, there's still plenty to hike to, too. If you want ripping family fun, head to the groomers and trees off of Lift 4.

GOOD STUFF: Party down with pretzels and craft brew at the Bavarian on mountain, or head into town for real New Mexican food at the Guadalajara Grill (guadalajaragrilltaos.com), where they serve up big, casual portions. Order your chili Christmas style!

PASSES: Taos is also a member of the Mountain Collective (see left).

2. BIG SKY/ MOONLIGHT BASIN,

4. PARK CITY MOUNTAIN RESORT,

WHY YOU MUST MAKE THE DRIVE: Put

WHY YOU MUST MAKE THE DRIVE: Since Park City (and its equally fun neighbor, The Canyons) is now owned

by Vail Resorts, you would be crazy not to make the long drive down I-70 to Utah’s powder paradise.

Park City averages 364 inches per year, so you are almost guaranteed freshies. And we sincerely belive that on the worst of I-70 traffic days, it may actually be faster to fly to Salt Lake City than do battle trying to get to Summit County.

THE GOODS: When it comes to Park City Resort, Jupiter Bowl is the place to hone in on. You will want to hike out Pinecone Ridge when it opens up.

LIVE IT UP: They say that Park City is the Vegas of Utah ... you decide exactly what that means. For booze, High West Distillery (highwest.com) is right at the bottom of the lift.

PASSES: That Vail Epic Pass gives you unlimited skiing at Park City and the Canyons.

together these two linked resorts in Montana’s Madison Range and you get over 5,800 skiable acres of world-class terrain that includes everything from screaming groomers on Andesite Mountain to stashes in the trees on the Shedhorn lift to big scares up in the Big Couloir and North Summit snowfield.

THE GOODS: The Big Couloir is the main attraction but the Patrol Gullies also provide fresh-turn thrills with the whole lift line watching. Those seeking a bit less action can check out the quiet, gladed terrain off the Southern Comfort chair.

IT'S UP TO YOU WANT TO BE KING OF THE HILL? IF YOU CAN MAKE IT AT JACKSON HOLE, YOU CAN MAKE IT ANYWHERE. photo by Greg Von Doerston

3. TAOS,

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2017 RESORT GUIDE

Now is the time to plan how to best maximize your season of play.

We want to help. That’s why we put together this guide to ensure this winter will be exactly what you need.

by Kevin Luby

THE PERFECT WINTER YOU NEED THIS WINTER TO ROCK

Challenges your moxie

ARAPAHOEBASIN.COM | 888.ARAPAHOE

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HOME TO SOME OF THE MOST ADVENTUROUS SKIING IN THE STATE,

CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN RESORT

Crested Butte captivates countless skiers and snowboarders looking for a challenge. Expect to hike, sidestep and billygoat your way to the mountain’s best turns. But know this: The extra work is worth it—both on the hill and when you retell the story at one of the fine eating and drinking establishments of this eclectic gem of a town.

JOIN THE COMMUNITY // CBMR has partnered with local nonprofits and the greater Crested Butte community to extend a popular summerspecific low environmental impact educational initiative into the winter season.

Mountain Manners are 10 simple rules to remind people how to minimize their trace on the beauty that surrounds Crested Butte.

If you are looking for a taste of adventure, you have found the sweet spot.

CRESTEDBUTTEMOUNTAINRESORT

@SKICRESTEDBUTTE

FAMILY FRIENDLY // Crested Butte’s compact layout and natural terrain mean it’s easy for families to navigate. Add in several slopeside and close proximity lodging options, and you get a world-class ski destination with all the approachability of a local hill.

LESSONS // Dedicated to improving the on-slope experience for all levels of skier, the CBMR Ski & Ride School offers all-ages programming for very-first-timers all the way up to expert riders looking for a challenge. Adult Beginner Adventure lessons include equipment, tickets, lunch and teaching designed to ignite a new passion, while a day with the CB Steep Guides will give you the locals’ look at some of the most thrilling terrain in the Lower 48.

RESTAURANTS // Create an extra-special Crested Butte memory high on the mountain.

Curl up under warm blankets as a snow-cat-driven sleigh whisks you up to Uley’s Cabin for a five-course prix fixe meal ($110) that blends delicious Coloradoinspired eats with French flare.

@SKICRESTEDBUTTE

SKICB.COM

Alex Fenlen

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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LOVELAND SKI AREA

MEGA-RESORT CONGLOMERATES BEDAMNED. Located

conveniently before the Eisenhower tunnel on I-70, Loveland continues to experience incredible success as an independent in spite of the constant portfolio shuffling of other Colorado hills. At Loveland, it’s about quality snow and a strong community. Free cat skiing and approachable-yet-challenging terrain covered in consistent snowfall (422 inches annually) attracts the diehards, while one of the Front Range’s fastest growing ski schools ushers in the next generation. Loveland’s nostalgic, home-grown vibe and incredible convenience (just 53 miles from Denver) keeps everyone coming back. Loveland skiers know, there’s no better place to enjoy I-70 traffic than from the unload station of Chair 1, 1,000 vertical feet above the freeway.

TICKETS // Committed to value, Loveland’s ticket window price for a day-pass ($75) is one of the lowest in the Front Range. But if you want the real deal, purchase an early-season 4-Pak, which give you four transferable passes for $159. That’s just $40 a day.

FAMILY FRIENDLY // Situated just east of the main base area, Loveland Valley is a beginner and family paradise. Progressive lifts and terrain offer a perfect learning environment that’s set away from the hustle and bustle of the main resort. When it’s time to step up to bigger terrain, the big slopes are only a quick shuttle bus ride away.

LESSONS // Loveland’s 3-Class Pass is the most affordable way to learn to ski in Colorado. With it you get three days of rental gear, three lessons and a full season pass upon completion of the instruction. Prices start at $366.

LOVELANDSKIAREA

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@LOVELANDSKIAREA

An independent spirit and tight community make Denver’s closest ski area a winner.

PASS PROGRAMS // In the era of the multi-resort season pass, Loveland has kept pace by partnering with other independent resorts to offer 30 bonus days of riding at resorts including Monarch, Purgatory, Montana’s Whitefish Mountain Resort and other prime spots on several of its season pass offerings.

APRÈS // Loveland’s on-site Rathskeller slings cold beer and stiff drinks in a funky, yet cozy atmosphere, often with live music. Be sure to try the tasty Pine Bough Pale Ale, a special collaboration with Idaho Springsbased Tommyknocker Brewery.

It’s almost always on special, too.

@LOVELANDSKIAREA

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

RETAILERS // Loveland Sport Shop offers the prices and service you would expect from a dedicated retailer down on the Front Range as opposed to an on-mountain store. Here you will find custom boot fitting and top-end demo equipment (the Hat Trick package, which gives you three demos for the price of one). The Daytripper Package includes lift ticket, equipment rental and clothing rental (pants, jacket, gloves, hat and goggles) for less than the cost of a lift ticket alone at the mega resorts.

BIG ADVENTURE // You’ll hear a lot of chatter around the lift mazes about the Ridge Cat during good days at the Luv, because when open, it access some of the area’s most exciting terrain for the low, low price of ... Free! Simply sign a waiver in the ticket office for a Cat Pass and enjoy free catskiing that tops out at nearly 13,000 feet.

SKILOVELAND.COM

COLORADO’S BEST TICKET DEAL! 4 TICKETS, NO RESTRICTIONS.

LIFT LINES & HASSLES NOT INCLUDED.

Loveland 4-Paks are actual lift tickets that can be used by anyone on any day of the season. Use them yourself on 4 different days or share with friends and family all on the same day. No restrictions. No blackouts.

4-Paks are only available through 11-19-17 and are not available for purchase or pick up at any ticket window.

OM C D. N LA E V LO I SK

BOULDER ADVENTURE LODGE

At long last there’s a place in Boulder County that travelling outdoor junkies can call home.

BOULDER ADVENTURE LODGE CO-FOUNDER ASA FIRESTONE calls his creation

a cross between an urban hipster hotel and and Montana ranch. What else would you expect from the brainchild of a National Geographic Young Explorer and a restaurant management aficionado? Voted one of the top ten hotels under $150 by USA Today, the A-Lodge offers everything from luxury campsites with a slackline park to kitchenette-equipped rooms for budget-conscious guest. Situated just up Boulder Canuyon, the lodge

is minutes from hiking, biking, rock climbing, fly fishing and downtown Boulder. During the winter, guests can purchase discounted lift tickets to nearby Eldora and hop a shuttle to the ski resort on weekends.

Drawing outdoor-minded visitors from near and far, the property has become a community hub, hosting action sports film nights on a giant 25-foot outdoor screen, yoga classes and more. It’s an ideal basecamp for the Front Range’s world-class outdoor experiences.

A-LODGE.COM

ADVENTURELODGE

303.444.0882

@ADVENTURE_LODGE

POWDERHORN MOUNTAIN RESORT

High on the sides of Grand Mesa, this rocking little resort serves up everything from tree skiing to romance.

SOMETIMES THE BEST SKI AND SNOWBOARD ESCAPES TAKE YOU BY SURPRISE.

Tucked along the northern edge of Grand Mesa, Powderhorn delivers breathtaking Western Slope views and 1,600 acres of fun terrain that recieves 250 inches of soft, dry snow each year. Seek out the goods even a few days after a storm in the resort’s magical aspen glades—it’s some of the best downlow skiing and riding in the state. Lift lines are unheard of here and the resort’s just a 45-minute drive from he streets SKIPOWDERHORN

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and mountain bike trails of Grand Junction. But don’t miss grass-fed local beef from Homestead Meats at The Sunset Bar & Grill or grub and craft brew at Powderhorn Pub in the SlopeSide Inn on mountain.

Plus there’s a full-service Ski & Ride school, rental equipment and lodging on site. Looking for an escape away from the buzz of big resorts? Powderhorn is the perfect destination for families, couples, groups and friends seeking a unique and authentic adventure.

POWDERHORN.COM

@SKIPOWDERHORN

FAR FROM THE YMCA GYM AND SWIM OF YOUR YOUTH,

SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH YMCA OF THE ROCKIES

Snow Mountain Ranch is a family and fitness mecca of outdoor winter activities (and, yes, there is also an indoor pool). In the winter, however, over 100 kilometers of groomed trails for Nordic skiing, snowshoeing and fat biking serve as the main attraction on this 5,100-acre Grand County property, but only scratch the surface of the possibilities. With ice skating, roller skating, rock climbing, sleigh rides, and so much more on site, there’s a memorable experience for adventurers of all shapes and sizes waiting here this winter.

Maximize your winter playtime at this do-it-all, family friendly escape.

FAMILY FRIENDLY // A diversity of facilities and an impressive fleet of winter rental gear suited for any age (including tow-behind chariots for toddlers) make Snow Mountain Ranch the perfect place for sharing the

YMCAROCKIES

@SNOWMTNRANCH

@SNOWMOUNTAINRANCH

beauty of the Colorado winter with the entire family.

LESSONS // The ranch offers group and private nordic ski lessons daily. For first timers, a learn-to-ski package includes trail access, rental gear and a group lesson for $50 (adults) or $40 (kids). Periodically throughout the winter, Snow Mountain Ranch offers free guided skiing and snowshoeing excursions to explore more of the property.

LODGING // Choose between hotel-style rooms in one of three on-site lodges or rent a cozy private cabin for the entire family.

For a truly rustic experience, adventurous guests can opt for yurt accommodations. Be sure to bring an extra warm sleeping bag.

BACKCOUNTRY // The gentle rolling terrain of Snow Mountain Ranch provides the ideal training ground for those interested in backcountry skiing. Intro to Alpine Touring courses, positioned as unintimidating experiences for first timers, will be offered throughout the season.

SNOWMOUNTAINRANCH.ORG

MORE Ks‌ MORE DAYS Over 100K of groomed trails.

Winter comes earlier, and stays longer.

Free trail passes are included with your stay.

Snow Mountain Ranch SnowMountainRanch.org/Nordic SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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WINTER EVENTS POWDERHORN MOUNTAIN RESORT SKI PATROL SKI ALONG All Season; Powderhorn Resort

The ultimate insider’s tour of Powderhorn Mountain Resort, the Ski Patrol Ski Along gives skiers and snowboarders the opportunity to take part in Powderhorn ski patrol’s daily operations. Participants may take part in morning safety briefings, risk mitigation, distressed skier calls, or run sweeps. powderhorn.com/Insider

BENTGATE MOUNTAINEERING BACKCOUNTRY 101 SESSIONS First Wednesday of the month, October-April. 6:15 p.m.-7:15 p.m.; Golden

These sessions introduce skiers and boarders to the equipment and resources available for fun, safe backcountry tours. Topics include backcountry essentials, ski touring and splitboard gear, avalanche safety gear, clothing systems and backcountry resources. bentgate.com/events

WILDYX SNOW STOKE SOCIAL October 5; Denver

Come together with the Denver backcountry community and get excited about the upcoming season.

This fun event raises awareness about winter backcountry recreation in Colorado, and it’s also a big fundraiser for Wilderness Exchange’s partners at Friends of Berthoud Pass. wildernessx. com/blog/snow-stoke-social-2017

WHISKEY SUMMIT: TASTING FESTIVAL October 7, 4 p.m.-7 p.m.; Estes Park

It’s spirit season! This celebration features the products of more than 40 distillers and bottlers of whiskey, rum, vodka, and other distilled spirits from Colorado and beyond. visitestespark. com/events-calendar/special-events/ whiskey-summit/

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WILDYX ANNUAL GEAR SWAP October 14, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Denver

WildyX’s gear swap, is the place to get the best deals on the gear you need for all your outdoor adventures.

The shop blocks off the parking lot behind the building, and sets up a tent with tables so you can sell your unwanted stuff. wildernessx.com

UPSLOPE BREWING COMPANY’S 9TH ANNIVERSARY PARTY November 4; Boulder

Upslope takes over the parking lot and rolls up the garage doors to the brewery space to make room for the party. Prepare yourself for beer, live music and food trucks galore. upslopebrewing.com/events

FALL BACK BEER FEST November 4; Estes Park

Sip on over 100 different beers from over 30 Colorado breweries poured by the brewers themselves. visitestespark.com/events-calendar/ special-events/fall-back-beer-festival/

COPPER’S OPENING DAY November 10; Copper Mountain

Celebrate the official start to the 2017/18 winter season at Copper. coppercolorado.com

26TH ANNUAL COLORADO SKI & SNOWBOARD EXPO Nov. 10-12; Denver

Overstocked merchandise from Colorado Ski & Golf is 40 to 60 percent off. Interactive attractions include high ropes course, climbing wall, and fitness challenge. skisnowexpo.com/denver-expo

CHRISTY SPORTS DEMO DAY November 11, Loveland Ski Area

Christy Sports visits Loveland for an early season demo with more

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Be sure to put these events in your calendar to make for a winter filled with even more fun, community and insider deals. than 30 brands. End your day in the Rathskeller for the après party and raffle. skiloveland.com

RISE ‘N’ SHINE RANDO SERIES November 14 and 28, December 12 and 19 and January 9 and 23; Arapahoe Basin A-Basin’s Tuesday uphill/downhill randonee race series is back, with two additional races and prizes for top finishers and series leaders. It’s open to racers of all ability levels. arapahoebasin.com/events

SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH NORDIC CENTER OPENING DAY November 15, YMCA of the Rockies/Snow Mountain Ranch Welcome to more than 100 kilometers of trails for everyone from the first-time cross-country skier or snowshoer to the elite racer.

Or just enjoy ice skating, tubing, snowshoeing and sleigh rides. snowmountainranch.org/nordic

ELDORA MOUNTAIN RESORT OPENING WEEKEND + ALPENGLOW UNVEILING CELEBRATION November 17-19, Eldora

Enjoy a grand opening of winter fun and be a part of the historic unveiling of Eldora’s first-ever high-speed detachable chairlift, the Alpenglow 6-Pack. eldora.com/things-to-do/ events/all-events-programs

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BUENA VISTA BACKCOUNTRY EXPERIENCE December 16; Buena Vista

Enjoy snowshoeing, cross-country skiing or backcountry skiing on the latest demo equipment from leading manufacturers. Local guides will be providing instruction and gear advice.

Presented by The Trailhead outdoor store and Buena Vista Mountain Adventures. thetrailheadco.com

SKI COOPER’S 75TH BIRTHDAY PARTY December 31, 2017; Leadville

Come celebrate Cooper’s rich history at it’s 75th Birthday party! There will be skiing and snowboarding, live music, birthday cake and a torchlight parade after dark. skicooper.com

GRAND TARGHEE NYE CELEBRATION December 31; Grand Targhee, Wyoming

Celebrate New Year’s Eve with a multi-course meal at the Branding Iron Grill and the annual Torchlight Parade in Grand Targhee Plaza. Afterwards, head to the Trap Bar & Grill for the annual raging bash. grandtarghee.com

NEW YEAR’S EVE MOONLIGHT DINE & SKI December 31, Copper Mountain

Ring in 2018 with dinner and skiing under the stars. coppercolorado.com

SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH CLASSIC RACE January 6, YMCA of the Rockies/ Snow Mountain Ranch Experience the trails of Snow Mountain Ranch in this early season classic-only event. Challenge yourself on the single-lap 7.5K course or double your pleasure and make two laps on the 15K course. snowmountainranch.org/nordic

WINTER FESTIVAL

SKIING

ELAN BIG MOUNTAIN WOMEN’S WEEKEND AT CRESTED BUTTE January 19-21; Crested Butte Mountain Resort This women-only weekend ski experience features demos on awardwinning Elan Ripstick freeride skis and the chance to explore CB’s massive terrain with a Ski and Ride School instructor guide. skicb.com/events

BUTTE BANKED SLALOM January 21; Crested Butte Mountain Resort

In celebration of World Snowboard Day, Crested Butte is hosting the second annual Butte Banked Slalom.

This event is open to snowboarders of all ages (sorry, no skiers). It’s time to get low, go fast and try to hold that edge! skicb.com/events

BOREALIS FAT BIKE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS January 25-28; Crested Butte/Mt. Crested Butte

The Third Annual Borealis Fat Bike World Championships, presented by Upslope Brewing Company, is the greatest fat-biking event in the world.

The action begins with the North Village Classic, a team/individual relay race that is sure to test your skills, on Thursday. Rest your legs and try out a plethora of new fat bikes at the North Village Demo Day on Friday.

Become a World Champion in the fivelap championship race on Saturday, and top the weekend off with liftserved downhill fat biking at Crested Butte Mountain Resort on Sunday. cbfatbikeworlds.com

BEACON BOWL AND AVALANCHE AWARENESS DAY February 3; Arapahoe Basin The 16th annual iteration of this A-Basin classic raises funds for the

SNOWBOARDING

NORDIC SKIING

the Colorado Avalanche Information Center (CAIC). Both recreational backcountry users and professional ski patrollers can enter the beacon search event—but be sure to stick around for avy dog demos, a huge silent auction and free live music. arapahoebasin.com/events

THE ALLEY LOOP NORDIC MARATHON February 3; Crested Butte

If you like normal, you may want to seek out another Nordic race.

Otherwise, this one is right up your “alley.” The course starts and finishes in the heart of downtown Crested Butte, winding around on snow covered streets, narrow alleys and one-lane bridges. cbnordic.org/alleyloop-nordic-marathon

MOUNTAINTOP MATRIMONY February 14; Loveland Ski Area

The 27th Annual Valentine’s Day Mountaintop Matrimony ceremony and reception is a Loveland tradition.

New couples are joined and married couples renew their vows in a mass wedding at an elevation of 12,050 feet on the deck of the Ptarmigan Roost Cabin. skiloveland.com

VALDEZ ICE CLIMBING FESTIVAL Feb. 16-19; Valdez, Alaska

Climb multi-pitch natural ice structures towering up to 200 meters high in legendary Keystone Canyon and surrounding Valdez. Take part in co-ed and women’s clinics plus gear demos hosted by Black Diamond, CAMP/Cassin, and Petzl. Plus there will be Mountainfilm, live music, a silent auction and a banquet—and a special guest appearance by Conrad Anker. levitation49.org/ice-fest

FOOD

BEER

MUSIC

TAOS FREERIDE CHAMPIONSHIPS February 26-March 2; Taos, New Mexico

For 13 years, Taos Ski Valley has been hosting the Freeride Championships, an event that attracts some of the best big mountain skiers and snowboarders in the country.

Taos is the oldest Freeride World Qualifying event in the Americas. skitaos.com

10TH MOUNTAIN DAY March 2; Ski Cooper

Join the soldiers of the 10th Mountain Division that trained on Cooper Hill in the 1940s for a day of celebration. Current military will join the skiing parade down the front side of the mountain carrying flags.

Plus, some of the original ski gear, clothing and training equipment will be available at the event. skicooper.com

COLORADO CRAFTED March 3; Crested Butte Mountain Resort Base Area

Ski spring conditions at Crested Butte Mountain Resort and then kick back and enjoy a craft tasting that features the best breweries, distillers and local fare that Colorado has to offer. Enjoy delicious beverages, taste treats and get down to incredible live music while overlooking the majestic Elk Mountains. cbcrafted.com

10TH ANNIVERSARY OF SNOWBOARDING March 18; Taos, New Mexico

On March 19, 2008 Taos Ski Valley opened the mountain up to snowboarding, which had not been allowed at the resort before that time.

This season the resort celebrates the decision that brought skiers and

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CLIMBING

FAT BIKING

snowboarders together and allowed them to share this exhilarating mountain. skitaos.com

CLOSING DAY: SPRING BREAK AT GRAND TARGHEE March 30; Grand Targhee, Wyoming

Come enjoy a full month of endless good times for the whole family during Grand Targhee’s Annual Spring Break celebration. There’s great skiing and riding on the mountain, live music every weekend through closing day, open mic nights, a throwback ’80’s sick trick competition with a DJ on deck, the Rubber Legs Banked Slalom Race, the annual Cardboard Box derby, the Sink or Swim 100-foot long Pond Skim and much more. grandtarghee.com

BANKED SLALOM RACES AND RETRO DAY WEEKEND March 31; Eldora

The Front Range’s best on-snow beach party returns for a second year, featuring wildly fun Banked Slalom Races on Eldora’s historic Trick Ditch trail. There will be beer, live music, giveaways and fun on-snow games. eldora.com/things-to-do/events/allevents-programs

CHUGACH FAT BIKE BASH April 6-8; Valdez, Alaska

Celebrate fat biking with uniquely Alaskan events like the Ursa Major Harbor Race and Street Party, Hoodoo Rodeo, a daring downhill and an exhilarating cross-country race. And there will be live music. Remember to bring all the toys to enjoy springtime in Valdez: Here, you can bike, ski, soar, climb, paddle and brap. chugachfatbikebash.com

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P M HO O TO UN TA BY IN BE EE NT RI G N AT G E

00

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I V RFE C EA T W I W N TE AYR

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BENT GATE MOUNTAINEERING $50 GIFT CARD AND A FULL BACKCOUNTRY RENTAL: SKIS, SKINS, BOOTS, POLES, BEACON, SHOVEL, PROBE INCLUDED. ($225 VALUE) BRIDGEDALE PAIR OF VERTIGE LIGHT SOCKS ($24.95 VALUE) SEGO PAIR OF MENS OR WOMENS SKIS ($649-$799 VALUE)

GRAND TARHGEE

WINNER CAN CHOOSE FROM ANY SKI IN SEGO’S LINE EXCLUDING THE ‘WIZARD, WAVE BC AND UP TOUR’.

Wyoming’s authentic powder paradise serves up all the action you can handle.

WHEN WINTER STORMS SWEEP THROUGH THE IDAHO PLAINS and smash

Sego Ski Co.

into the Tetons, Grand Targhee is the first ski area in the line of fire. As a result, this 2,602-acre gem situated in the shadow of the Grand Teton racks up snow totals north of 500 inches a year. While a certain neighboring high-profile resort gets loony on deep days, Targhee’s pace remains unrushed during big storms with empty lift lines, plenty of playful in-bounds and hike-to terrain and a heaping plate of Wydaho Nachos at the

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Trap Bar at the end of the day.

Throw in dedicated powder-skiing skills camps and Wyoming’s only cat skiing operation, and Targhee is truly a place to get pitted. It’s much more than just a powder paradise, however. A dedicated, on-mountain adventure zone with terrain-based learning features and an all-ages kids club make Targhee perfect for families. A network of nordic, snowshoe and fatbike trails offer down-day distractions, and frequent ski and stay deals keep things easy on the pocket book.

GRANDTARGHEE

@GRANDTARGHEE

@GRANDTARGHEERESORT

GRANDTARGHEE.COM

VALDEZ, ALASKA

The ultimate big winter adventure playground is more accessible than you may think.

PHOTO BY ZACHARY SHELDON @ ALASKA.PHOTOGRAPHY

VALDEZ ENTERED THE CONSCIOUSENESS OF THE WINTERSPORTS COMMUNITY back in the 1990s when the likes of Doug Coombs and Kim Reichelm pioneered the Chugach heli-ski scene in the mountains around nearby Thompson Pass. Thirty years later, Valdez continues to add to that core history with ever-expanding outdoor recreation opportunities.

Vast, wild, and surrounded by some of the world’s most impressive peaks, Valdez is the ultimate winter adventure spot.

BIG ADVENTURE // Bring all the toys when headed to Valdez. When not enjoying the legendary skiing on the pass or some of the world’s finest multi-pitch ice in Keystone Canyon, there’s a continuously expanding network of fatbike trails and, of course, the Valdez Arm of LEVITATION49

Prince William Sound. This deep water body doesn’t freeze making kayaking and paddleboarding (in a wet suit) a year-round option.

APRÈS // Valdez has a core mountain-town, DIY, tailgate après scene. From there, it’s The Fat Mermaid for pizza and beer or the Wheelhouse for burgers, steaks, and, yep, beer. The smalltown vibe is real here with each establishment just a stone’s throw from the next watering hole.

BACKCOUNTRY // Ski touring the Chugach actually predates the town’s heli-ski explosion.

Countless descents await the avalanche-educated backcountry skier, most rising right off the Richardson Highway. While you can find plenty of Alaskan gutcheck lines exist, the expansive Chugach also offers terrain and touring options for every skill level.

LODGING // From B & Bs to a Best Western, Valdez offers a diverse mix of options, all on the relatively affordable side. Check the usual spots like AirBnb, VRBO, and hotel sites. For future plans, the Totem Inn should finish a complete rebuild in early 2018 (and it is taking bookings now).

@LEVITATION49

@LEVITATION49

VALDEZICECLIMBINGFEST.COM | CHUGACHFATBIKEBASH.COM SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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TAOS SKI VALLEY

TALK TO SKIERS AND RIDERS IN THE KNOW, and

you’ll immediately understand that there’s a magic surrounding Taos Ski Valley and Northern New Mexico. They’ll speak of the rich light bouncing off the adobe, the stark, contrasting mountainscapes of the Sangre de Cristo Range, the Christmas chili, and of course, Kachina Peak, a true jewel of North American steep skiing.

Baked in deeper, however, is a family of skiers, the Blakes, who spent the better part of six decades cultivating this iconic, but just-off-the-beaten-path resort.

While the Blakes have moved on in ownership, their spirit still steers the new regime and the changes it’s bringing to the area. For skiers and boarders who have visited, Taos will aways be something truly special. For those who haven’t, it’s one blank spot on the map that should get filled in this season.

NEW THIS YEAR // A thrilling yet technical mountain, Taos is best enjoyed by skiers and riders with a firm grasp on their turns. But an $8-million investment in beginner lift and terrain improvements and a total rebuild of resort’s Children’s Center will help get new and younger snowsports enthusiasts to the next level even faster.

This development continues a multi-year revitalization, that has included the Kachina lift, hotel development, and more, under the dedicated new ownership FAMILY FRIENDLY // With the completion of the new Children’s Center comes the expansion of Taos Bound, a youth program that extends comprehensive kid programing into the après hours.

From headlamp hikes, to arts and culture activities, to video-editing instruction with GoPro footage, Taos Unbound offer activities for children up into their teens.

TAOSSKIVALLEY

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New Mexico’s crown jewel serves up steeps, family-friendly improvements and a new sustainable focus.

LESSONS // Taos Snowsports Weeks include six consecutive days of lessons, ample freeski time, and a chance to commune with other passionate skiers and riders.

Hooked on both the experience and the noticeable improvements in their form, many Snowsports Week participants return year after year.

PASS PROGRAMS // The newly established Taos Zia Pass draws millennials with season-long unrestricted lift access for just $450 for young adults aged 1829. In addition to its participation in the Mountain Collective pass program, Taos offers reciprocity to 16 different destinations with it’s unrestricted season pass.

@TAOSSKIVALLEY SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

@SKITAOS

LODGING // The Blake at Ski Taos Valley, an 80-room boutique ski-in, ski-out hotel, and the first resortowned lodging property, enters its first full winter season. On top of high-end amenities like a fitness center and spa, the hotel also offers art tours.

RESTAURANTS // Named for the tail number on Ernie Blake’s Cessna 170, the new 192 at The Blake will offer a delicious modern world menu and a perfect bar for bellying up at the end of the day.

On mountain, look to the Bavarian Lodge for après in old-world style.

BEYOND THE HILL // Taos and the surrounding area offer a fresh take on a ski vacation. While here, walk alongside Native American history at Taos Pueblo, a UNESCO World Herritage Site (35 min away), or soak in the healing waters of Ojo Caliente Hot Springs (one hour away).

SKITAOS.COM

F I E R C E LY INDEPENDENT SIN C E 19 56 SKITAOS.COM

A brand new Taos in the making. Introducing The Blake at Taos Ski Valley, an intimate slopeside getaway. Just steps from a vibrant resort plaza and a new gondola ride away from a state-of-the-art Children’s Center. True to our mountain legacy, Taos is improving without changing a thing. This winter, get off I-70 and head to Taos.

SITUATED HIGH ATOP TENNESSEE PASS, Colorado,

SKI COOPER

Ski Cooper offers both a familyfriendly ski destination and a glimpse at the nostalgic era of the sport. This authentic little area got its start as a training facility for 10th Mountain Division troops stationed at nearby Camp Hale. In the 75 years since it started operating, Ski Cooper evolved at a pace that’s kept focus on a relaxing but unpampered experience for all.

NEW THIS YEAR // Celebrating its 75th Anniversary on December 31, 2017, Ski Cooper has a season’s worth of special events. While Team USA battles it out in PyeongChang, Cooper skiers and riders can participate in the Cooper Olympiad.

In March, the area will celebrate a special 75th Anniversary 10th Mountain Day, and on several Saturdays throughout the season,

Channel the spirit of the 10th Mountain Division at Colorado’s most authentic ski hill.

SKICOOPERCHICAGORIDGE

@SKICOOPERCO

@SKICOOPER

visitors can try out the new Moonlight Mountain Top Yurt dinners.

FAMILY FRIENDLY // Affordable lift tickets, parking right at the base, zero crowds, wide, easily navigable trails: Every aspect of Ski Cooper exudes family-friendliness.

Plus, Cooper relies on 100-percent natural snow so hard-packed granular doesn’t exist here.

BIG ADVENTURE // Book a trip with Chicago Ridge Snowcat Tours and experience over 2,600 acres of untracked Colorado high country. Expect deep, cruisy open alpine bowls, glades, and expansive views. Trips include powder ski rentals, avalanche safety equipment, lunch at a yurt on Chicago Ridge, and drinks and apps at Katie O’Rourke’s at the end of the day.

PASSES // Ski Cooper aims to be an affordable place to ski. Adult day passes are just $54 and kids ski for only $34. Season passes run just $399 and $175 respectively (starting October 1). No headaches, no crowds, no pretense.

SKICOOPER.COM

Celebrating 75 Years of Affordable Family Fun!

SkiCooper.com | 800.707.6114 40

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GEAR

10. 17 VANS INFUSE

RESORT MUST-HAVES Get ready for another season at your favorite resort with our picks for the best gear to make your time on the snow a blast. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

K2 SPINE

SKIS

Rossignol Soul 7 Need a ski that can crush the crud? Want the ability to make the move from soft stuff in the trees to hardpack groomers without getting thrown off your game? Voila! The Carbon Alloy Matrix and a new Air Tip 2.0 construction here make this stick both playful and stable, ideal for typical Colorado resort days on the backside. $850 | rossignol.com

BOOTS

Vans Infuse HEAD KORE 93

K2 Spine Providing 120 flex and beefed up with an insert that makes it stiff enough to drive big skis, this boot keeps things under control in subpar conditions and absolutely helps you rail when you hit the good stuff. It also comes with the ability to add a boot-heating component. $750 | k2skis.com

ROSSIGNOL SOUL 7

HARDGOODS

Sego UP PRO 92 Long and lean, this women’s ski from Jackson, Wyoming brand Sego is the ideal quiver-of-one for the Colorado resort season.

With a rockered tip and 92 mm underfoot, it swings around fast on tricky bump runs but can still offer some levitation when it seeks the goods off-piste. Oh, and there’s a unicorn (spirit animal of pro skier Lindsey Dyer) on the top sheet. $724 | segoskis.com

BOARDS

Salomon Ultimate Ride This quiver-of-one board designed by Salomon pro Bode Merrill, can handle anything, from deep forays out the gates to sunny days screaming down the blues and hitting the pipe. Credit that performance to a construction that combines just enough sidecut to hang in turns, and carbon to keep things light and sucks up the landings. $600 | salomon.com

Ride Machete The latest iteration of Ride’s tried-and-true board proves why it remains in the brand’s line: It serves up just enough rocker to both keep it agile on the groomers and float up and fly in the untracked, making it the ideal board for those variable Colorado resort conditions. $500 | ridesnowboards.com

Head Kore 93 This ski will please the speed freaks. Head’s new Kore series sheds weight without compromising performance. The topless design features a polyester fleece top layer instead of a traditional top sheet, and it’s Koroyd construction provides control, allowing the ski to absorb more vibration and charge at high speeds. $649 | shop-us.head.com

Black Crows Corvus At 109 mm underfoot, this ripper from core Chamonix-based brand Black Crows is our editor’s day-today choice of ski for any condition.

With tip rocker and camber, it thrives in the trees and out of bounds (not to mention on big dump days), but athletic, agressive skiers will find it rides quite comfortably on the groomers, too. $750 | black-crows.com

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Here's a snowboard boot that will do it all—from the park to big backcountry lines—thanks to a Boa closure system, heat-moldable custom liners, cushy footbeds and removable tongue stiffeners. $370 | vans.com

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SALOMON ULTIMATE RIDE

SEGO UP PRO 92

BLACK CROWS CORVUS

RIDE MACHETE

GLOVE

FLYLOW LAB COAT

Seirus Innovation Heat Touch Hellfire Glove With just the touch of a button, these gloves will keep your hands toasty on the most frigid days. The rechargeable lithium batteries ensure your digits stay warm for up to 12 hours. $425 | seirus.com

HELMET

BERN HEIST

SERIOUS INNOVATION HEAT TOUCH HELLFIRE GLOVE

Bern Heist

Since it combines two different construction materials on top and bottom, this versatile lid provides all the protection you want on the hill at a surprisingly light weight of 530 grams (18.7 ounces). $140 | bernunlimited.com

DRESS THE PART STYLE

SHELL

ECO SHELL

Flylow Lab Coat

Columbia OutDry EX Eco Insulated

With a cut that doesn't cramp your style when athletic skiing, this shell battens down against winter’s worst weather thanks to eVent DV Expedition fabric (which makes it waterproof while still allowing for air permeability) and full seam seals. $525 | flylowgear.com

COLUMBIA OUTDRY EX ECO INSULATED

Columbia’s enviro friendly Eco line uses 100-percent fully recyclable materials and no water-wasting dyes (thus the white color).

For winter, 60 grams of green insulation add warmth to this weather-shucking shell. $230 | columbia.com

Picture Organic Kate

We love that Picture Organic is promoting planetary consciousness along with a sense of style at a price that doesn’t scare off regular people. Made with a combo of recycled and green polyester, the Kate performs like a champ thanks to a (green) waterproof/breathable membrane. $165 | pictureorganic-clothing.com

PICTURE ORGANIC KATE

SHRED SIMPLIFY

GOGGLES

Shred Simplify

Thanks to a big window that gives you extended vision and a lens that makes colors pop, this goggle imparts improved sight up on the mountain.

Plus, two percent of the sales here go to climate change nonprofit Protect Our Winters. $160 | shredoptics.com

SOCKS

Falke SK5 Seeking a sock with the perfect fit for that über-tight custom bootfit?

Made with silk (but still toasty) the German-built SK5 is your new best friend on the slopes. $60; falke.com

APRÈS

Vapium Summit+ The weather-resistant Summit+ keeps your smoking clean and respectful. Plus, the heating elements can be controlled with a nifty smart phone app. $150 | vapium.com

VAPIUM SUMMIT+ FALKE SK5

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REASONS WHY WINTER IS

THE BEST TIME TO VISIT NATIONAL PARKS BROUGHT TO YOU BY EMILY REEVES, SIERRA TRADING POST DIDN’T MAKE IT TO A NATIONAL PARK this summer or fall? Don’t stress: It’s not too late. It turns out winter is one of the best times to visit America’s national parks. If that comes as a surprise, read on to find out why winter wanderings make for a memorable adventure.

SOL I T U DE National parks tallied record numbers of visitors in the past couple of years, and some are dealing with overcrowded trails, roads and parking lots. It’s safe to say that most people don’t go to national parks to see people. They go to experience the solitude and beauty of the great outdoors. Winter solves that problem.

While you’ll be enjoying the beautiful, quiet vistas and deserted trails during the day, you don’t get as many hours of daylight to explore parks in the winter.

The place where you relax and enjoy your evenings becomes even more important when you’re spending less time outside. Be sure to stay in interesting accommodations to make the most of your visit to a national park in the winter. Some inns, lodges and cabins aren’t open year-round, so you should always check seasonal availability.

Balanced Rock in Arches National Park. CREDIT NPS/Jacob W. Frank

Here are ten of the best options for wintertime lodging in national parks:

NIGH T- SKY WATCH ING

1) NATIONAL PARK INN, MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK

There’s no better place to enjoy some quality stargazing than in the wilderness of a national park. Look to the sky in the winter and get a clear view of some grand constellations like Gemini, Orion, Taurus, Cassiopeia and Canis Major. You can also spot some of the brightest stars in the winter sky. Try spotting Castor and Pollux, Sirius, Capella and Betelgeuse on a clear night.

2) BRIGHT ANGEL LODGE, GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK 3) FURNACE CREEK INN, DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK 4) PEAR LAKE WINTER HUT, SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK (SNOWSHOE OR SKI IN) 5) WUKSACHI LODGE, SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK (NO SNOWSHOEING REQUIRED) 6) OSTRANDER AND GLACIER POINT SKI HUTS, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK (SNOWSHOE OR SKI IN) 7) YOSEMITE LODGE AT THE FALLS, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK (NO SNOWSHOEING REQUIRED) 8) OLD FAITHFUL SNOW LODGE AND CABINS, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK (ACCESSIBLE VIA SNOWCOACH) 9) ROOSEVELT CABINS AT LAKE CRESCENT LODGE, OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK 10) BELTON CHALET, GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

SNOW SPORTS Want to experience something unforgettable this winter? Try Nordic skiing, snowshoeing or backcountry skiing in a national park. You can snowshoe on practically any trail in a national park (as long as the trail is open and covered in snow, of course), and many national parks are well-known for their Nordic skiing opportunities.

Rocky Mountain National Park offers epic alpine touring. Cross-country skiing is a wonderful way to see Glacier, Grand Teton and Mount Rainier national parks in the winter. Try snowshoeing in Lassen Volcanic National Park for some unique views. Or, get on the fat-bike bandwagon in Denali National Park. Meanwhile, Yosemite National Park features an ice skating rink in Half Dome Village, as well as a ski and snowboard area with ski school instructors.

NOVE L A N D D R A M AT I C VIEWS

COOL ER TEMP ER ATU R ES

There’s something awe-inspiring about taking in one of those iconic national park vistas during the quiet of the winter season. The bright softness of fallen snow offers a drastic juxtaposition to the sheer walls of the Grand Canyon, red-hued landscape of Arches National Park and imposing mountains of Glacier National Park, for instance.

While cooler temperatures aren’t a positive thing for many park-goers in the north, they are a huge boon for explorers in the southern states. You can avoid the debilitating heat of the summer if you explore our nation’s southernmost parks during the winter months.

Big Bend, Death Valley and Everglades national parks boast mild winter weather, making the cold season the best time to visit.

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Perched above Whale Lake, celebrating the hike in with friends, Routt National Forest, CO – Devon Balet

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YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK. THE PEAKS OF ALASKA. ICELAND’S TUNDRA AND GLACIERS. THE WASATCH MOUNTAINS. CHAMONIX. THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL. ZION NATIONAL PARK. THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS…

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Which is good.

Until it’s not.

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HEAR THIS

10 .17

HALLOWEEN JAMS Too old to trick or treat? Catch one of these 10 local shows in costume on the spooky weekend.

by JEDD FERRIS

THE INFAMOUS STRINGDUSTERS

Bluegrass expansionists the Infamous Stringdusters are bringing a two-night Halloween stand back to Denver for a second straight year, holding court at the Ogden on Friday and Saturday. No strangers to Colorado, they’re returning after a recent ripping set at Rockygrass and a slot opening for Ryan Adams at Red Rocks in June. As theater headliners, though, the nimble-fingered quintet will go deeper, likely delivering two long sets of progressive string explorations. Expect surprises, too, as the band peppers its shows with a range of covers. For a taste, check out the EP “Undercover,” which features acoustic takes on Pink Floyd’s “Fearless” and Tom Petty’s “American Girl.” Minnesotabased stringbusters Pert Near Sandstone will open on the first night, while the second will feature Midnight North, a California folk-rock band that includes Grateful Dead bassist Phil Lesh’s son, Graham. Playing the Ogden Theatre in Denver on October 27-28.

MORE JAMS: If you dig what you hear from

Midnight North, the band will also be at the Fox Theatre in Boulder on October 29.

BILLY CORGAN

Rumors have been swirling for some time that Corgan is trying to reassemble the original line-up of the Smashing Pumpkins, but in the meantime the ’90s alt-rock icon hits the road behind a new album, “Ogilala,” which drops October 13. The new effort, released under the name William Patrick Corgan, finds him working with mega producer Rick Rubin, but the results are more subdued than what you’d expect. The record’s first single, “Aeronaut,” is a dramatic piano ballad that features Corgan’s distinct, nasal croon lifted by swells of strings. In a statement about the album, Corgan said he let Rubin take lead on the sonic direction: “Having written the songs for voice and guitar, I put myself in Rick’s hands to take the music wherever he’d like.

Normally, I would have done more, and tinkered more on production, but rather Rick put the onus on me to deliver at a molecular level via live takes. The rest was simply a reaction.” Playing the Boulder Theater on October 29.

MORE MELANCHOLY WITHOUT THE INFINITE SADNESS: Masters of mellow, Real Estate, will

bring its airtight indie pop-rock to the Fox Theatre in Boulder on October 30.

PAPADOSIO

Electronica fans looking for a Halloween-themed fix should spend the weekend with Papadosio.

The improv-minded quintet blends the pulsing digital soundscapes of STS9 with Phish-y jazzrock explorations, and its shows are often just as visually interesting as they are sonically intriguing. The band’s headlining gig at Red Rocks back in May featured the work of popular visionary artist Alex Grey. Dubbed Rave from the Grave, the group’s two-night stand at the Boulder Theater will feature support from Dynohunter and Bass Physics. Playing the Boulder Theater on October 27 and 28 and the Aggie Theatre in Fort Collins on October 29.

MORE ELECTRONICA: Simon Posford will bring his

Shpongle project to the Fillmore in Denver on October 27.

DEER TICK

Deer Tick went four years without releasing any new music, but the indie folk-rock mainstays made up for lost time by releasing two albums last month. “Deer Tick Vol. 1” and “Deer Tick Vol. 2” bridge the different sides of the band’s dusty punk sound. The first is predominantly acoustic, leaving room for the blue-collar ruminations in scratchy-voiced frontman John McCauley’s lyrics to surface. “Vol. 2,” on the other hand, showcases the band’s brawny, barrock side with plenty of full-throttle distortion.

In turn, shows on Deer Tick’s fall Twice is Nice Tour will feature two sets, one acoustic and one electric. Playing the Black Sheep in Colorado Springs on October 27 and the Gothic Theatre in Englewood on October 28.

MORE EARNEST GRIT:

Texas tunesmith David Ramirez, whose latest album “We're Not Going Anywhere” brings a 1980s synth sound to soul-felt lyrics, plays Hodi’s Half Note in Fort Collins on October 28.

DOUBLE SHOT DEER TICK JUST RELEASED TWO NEW ALBUMS AFTER A FOUR-YEAR DROUGHT AND, IN TURN, THE BAND WILL BE PLAYING BOTH AN ACOUSTIC AND AN ELECTRIC SET AT ITS GIGS IN COLORADO SPRINGS AND DENVER OVER HALLOWEEN WEEKEND. photo by Laura Partain

CHRIS ROBINSON BROTHERHOOD

Post-Black Crowes, Chris Robinson keeps trucking with his band of shaggy road warriors that likes to indulge in expansive psychedelic rock. Known to loyal fans as the CRB, the group tours relentlessly and continues to crank out new music. Back in June, the band released “Barefoot in the Head,” its fifth studio album since forming in 2011. The record jumps from the dance-ready, groove-rock of opener “Behold the Seer” to hazy country rambles (“She Shares My Blanket” and “High is Not the Top”) and mystical folk meditations (“Dog Eat Sun”). As a seasoned live act, the Chris Robinson Brotherhood likes to augment its own material with an eclectic range of covers. Recent set lists have featured classics such as The Velvet Underground’s “Rock and Roll” and The Kinks’ “Where Have All the Good Times Gone?” Playing the Gothic Theatre in Englewood on October 31.

MORE DUSTY GROOVES: Hiss Golden Messenger, the Durham, North Carolina act which leans to the indie side of the Americana world, plays the Bluebird Theater in Denver on October 30.

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THE ROAD

10 .17

FULL PLATE Heliskiing in Alaska, without the $10,000 price tag and coming home with a paycheck?

Sure, if you want to cook for 20.

by JASON BLEVINS

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hen Aaron Brill—the founder of Colorado’s Silverton Mountain and owner of Alaska’s renowned Silverton Mountain Guides—first told me that I could get free helibumps to steep shots of untouched powder in the boundless wilds of Alaska’s Central Chugach, my answer was immediate and unequivocal: “Yes please.”

“There’s a hitch.”

“Doesn’t matter. Not listening.

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I’m in.”

Maybe I should have paid more attention to that hitch: I had to cook three meals a day for 20 people. But heliskiing in Alaska, without the $10,000 price tag and returning home with a paycheck? Dude, how bad could it be?

I soon learned that waking before dawn to cook a hot breakfast for a lodge full of mega-amped skiers is hard. So is prepping a couple dozen custom-made sandwiches with fresh-roasted meats. So is driving two hours every other day and towing four shopping carts around the Fred Meyer grocery in Palmer, Alaska, checking off a list that spanned several pages of legal tablet. And a four-course dinner six-days a week?

Man, that is some serious work.

But you know what was even harder? Standing there watching every morning as a bright yellow AStar full of giddy rippers disappeared over the horizon,

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headed out for lap after powderfilled lap in one million acres of the Last Frontier.

Then came the day when I finally got to ride in that AStar.

After a few hours ripping 5,000-foot laps of pillowy pow on kitchen-weary legs, Call me Cookie! I was ready to sign on for a 10-year contract.

A

confession: I’m a heli-skiing junkie. I’m not a cook. I was.

More than 20 years ago. I worked the line at a San Francisco joint that would churn out as many as 1,200 Mediterranean-inspired dinners a night. I cooked burgers and steaks as a ski bum in Vail, shredding all day and working all night. I spent weeks in a tent, serving pre-dawn breakfasts and high-end suppers to elk hunters out in the Eagle’s Nest Wilderness, packing everything I needed in on horses.

But that was a previous life, a quarter century ago. Back then, I had energy. I was in my 20s and

could ski ROOM TO RAGE six hours, WITH RUNS AS LONG AS work eight 5,000 VERTICAL FEET AND A GUARANTEE OF 10-18+ hours in RIDES PER DAY, SILVERTON the kitchen MOUNTAIN GUIDES NORTHERN CHUGACH HELI and then COVERS ONE drink beer OPERATON MILLION ACRES. for four hours. And photo courtesy Jason Blevins do it all over again the next day. Now, dangerously close to 50, I can do one of those three things per day. Today, I drive around and type and talk on the phone and ski on the weekends, chasing two daughters who are quickly becoming better than me.

Oh, and every night, I cook dinner for my family.

Cooking for four does not, however, translate to cooking for 20.

So I was not prepared to shop, prep, cook and clean for a revolving posse of super-fun, goggle-tanned skiers who were dropping mad cash for the trip of a lifetime. And, truthfully,

I’m not really prepared to drop into 50-degree funnels of snow that will move and chase you, requiring fast-twitch maneuvering that simply isn’t needed in 99 percent of the world’s lift-served terrain.

I’d like to say I spent weeks poring over menus and training for the skiing. But life is busy. I pounded on this keyboard and chased kids down the hill right up to departure. I had a day to prep on the ground in AK and told myself I’d spend it online at the lodge and create a week’s worth of menus that I could repeat for each group. So it was somewhat disconcerting to learn that the lodge did not have internet.

Those were some long hours in a tired truck in the parking lot of the Fred Meyer, working an overheated phone to create the right dinners and chart the necessary ingredients. Brill’s crew—the hardcharging guides who I’ve know for years—had little faith in me. Why would they trust me to make their meals? To provide them with all the calories they needed to ferry 20 clients through 18 heli rides and upwards of 50,000 feet of vertical?

Up to that point, I was the funloving guy who’d visit with his own crew of fun-loving guys for turns at Silverton Mountain. None of them had actually seen me work before.

They certainly hadn’t seen me cook. They questioned their leader’s wisdom in selecting a clown on fat skis as a chef. Even I was skeptical of Brill’s decision-making in this particular instance.

Unlike a chef with experience, I was extremely inefficient. But it worked. Biscuits and gravy, omelets and pancakes and endless trays of bacon every morning, with fresh fruit, coffee and juice. I roasted beef and turkey and chicken for freshmade sandwiches, each built to order. Dinners included homemade soups, salads with custom-made dressings, steaks, crab, pistachioencrusted salmon, halibut in a lemon caper sauce, grilled polenta, roasted red peppers, pureed cauliflower with roasted garlic, seared Brussels sprouts in browned butter. Desserts were simple: fresh berries and whipped cream with maybe a store-bought cake. It may not have been fancy, but it was definitely quality.

The folks at Fred Meyer didn’t take long to notice me. The department heads wondered how certain products were disappearing every other day from the shelves. I would buy up all of their halibut. All of their salmon. All of the pistachios and polenta and red potatoes. All of their fresh-sliced bacon. Every clamshell of berry in the produce department. Eventually they caught up with me and asked how long it was going to last. You see, they said, we order food on ships from Oregon and I was blowing up their supplies.

I probably could have ordered ahead or even used a food service, but I slid into the cooking gig at 100 miles per hour. Even the 14-hour shifts in the kitchen and grocery seemed like a respite from the daily grind at a newspaper where the workload is always increasing while staff numbers are constantly dwindling.

Once I was in the kitchen though, I planned and prepped ahead. For good reason, and it wasn’t about being a good chef. You see, the call to jump onboard that AStar could come at any minute.

Every so often, a client would bail for an afternoon, or God bless them, an entire day. Silverton Mountain Guides is not AK 101.

Clients start the first run of the first day on the stuff that most helicopter outfits reserve for grizzled veterans of Alaska heliskiing. Since guests are vetted back home in the helicopter on Silverton Mountain’s notoriously terrifying terrain, there is no need for the gradual stepping up into the AK goods, a time-worn strategy employed by just about every other helicopter outfit in The Last Frontier. With Silverton Mountain Guides, the day features gut-churning exposure on every run and stays full-throttle throughout the week (the operation prides itself on offering 10-18 runs a day as opposed to the measly six that the usual heli outfit guarantees).

AFTER A FEW HOURS RIPPING 5,000-FOOT LAPS OF PILLOWY POW ON KITCHENWEARY LEGS, I WAS READY TO SIGN A 10YEAR CONTRACT.

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hen the guests would return from that first day, I would scan them for the weak-link. I became familiar with the signs of fear: They pass on beer and cocktails and wine. They leave food uneaten. They huddle on the couch in the dining room—the only place where cell phones work—and whisper to spouses back home. They

ice ankles and knees and shoulders, staring into the middle distance.

They retire to their cabins early with a stack of DVDs from the lodge library.

I watched them like a lion on the edge of the herd and I cooked the next breakfast in my base layers. Just in case. Most often they left in the morning. But when the ship returned for midday re-fuel, chances were good the fearful/ nervous/worked would be onboard.

And there would be Cookie at the helipad, dressed to ski.

“Oh really, there’s an empty seat?

Wow. Well, we can’t let that happen.”

The oven was on low, the steaks were seared, dinner was prepped and I was ready to join skiers who’d trained for months and were daysdeep in their heli adventure.

I’d catch the first ship home at the end of the day and race to the

kitchen in CHOPPED OR CHOPPERED? my Langes. BLEVINS DREW ON A PAST LIFE WORKING IN A I cooked SAN FRAN more than FAST-PACED EATERY TO DISH UP MEALS. a couple of HE BECAME A FAMILIAR dinners in FACE IN THE PALMER FRED MEYER ... AND ON THE ski pants.

ASTAR LANDING PAD. My legs photo courtesy Jason Blevins wobbled.

My grin didn’t.

It’d crack my sunburned face for the next week despite the four-hour trips to the grocery, stacks of dirty dishes and 4 a.m. alarms.

It worked. I worked. And I was getting paid to go heliskiing in Alaska.

JASON BLEVINS LIVES IN EAGLE, COLORADO, AND HAS COVERED THE SKI INDUSTRY, MOUNTAIN BUSINESS, AND ADVENTURE SPORTS FOR THE DENVER POST SINCE 1997.

LAST SEASON, HE LOGGED MORE THAN 60 DAYS ON THE HILL, MOST OF THOSE WITH HIS WIFE AND TWO DAUGHTERS.

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ELWAYVILLE

10 .17

THE SWEETEST SEASON

Follow our fall tick list and make this an October to remember.

by PETER KRAY

I

’m a sucker for Christmas, especially in the mountain towns when I walk by all the bright lights in the swirling snow. Halloween is another favorite, picking pumpkins from a farmer’s field with that first cold, apple fresh crispness in the air. But late September and early October are far away my favorite time of year.

There’s something about the drama of the tilting light, the golden leaves and the first scent of wood smoke that hits straight to my soul.

With the shorter days and looming starkness of the landscape, there’s more mystery out there in the world. There’s a new energy, a quickening pace whispering, “Hurry up, we still have so much to do.”

So what will you do? Here are just a few of my favorite options for leaping into a Colorado fall:

GO TO A BRONCOS GAME

Given the title of this column, I’m obviously a sucker for all things “Donkeyville.” If I didn’t spend half my time talking football with my friends, I’m not sure we’d talk at all. But even if you don’t care about football, seeing a Broncos game live is an absolutely beautiful way to spend a Sunday afternoon. There’s a timeless glory to the sea of jerseys, the roar of the crowd and that unbelievably green field. And if you wear the jersey of an opposing player, like Tom Brady or Philip Rivers for example, you’ll make plenty of new friends for sure.

HIKE A SKI HILL

My dad used to take us hiking under the ski lifts, once pretending to find the same silver quarter again and again until my brother and I were in a frenzy, searching for our own sack of gold. This time of year, it’s a great way to get in shape for the coming ski season, and it feels like a backstage pass, seeing the runs and the empty chairs before they’re all buried in snow.

My favorite part of fall hiking, though, is all the places it helps your mind go.

SPEND A WEEKEND AT DEVIL’S THUMB RANCH

One of America’s cross-country skiing Meccas, Devil’s Thumb has miles of trails with breathtaking views. They are just as fun for running, hiking and mountain biking in the fall.

Book a cabin for a couple of October nights with someone you love and a couple of furry friends, and celebrate autumn with a fire, a glass of wine and the honeyed alpenglow of the setting sun.

Illustration by Kevin Howdeshell / THEBRAVEUNION.COM

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DRIVE TO SALIDA

I love the Collegiate Peaks of the Sawatch Range.

For years, I could see them floating like icebergs through my in-laws’ kitchen window. Escaping Denver—and I-70—for a sunny U.S. 285 drive to Salida is a fast track to the immense beauty of the Rockies, especially once you’re in the shadow of the peaks that tower over the Arkansas River, and winding your way to a cold beer and burrito on the Benson’s Tavern patio.

BUY A BAG OF FRESH ROASTED GREEN CHILES

They’re best from roadside stand on Federal Blvd.

Peel ‘em (while wearing latex gloves so you don’t burn whatever you touch next, especially your significant other!) then freeze ’em, and you can make amazing stew and searing heuvos rancheros all winter long.

SWIM IN A LAKE

One of the first date weekends my future wife and I took was to a little place she rented near Lake Granby where I sat on the porch pretending to be a writer in a flannel shirt, while she coaxed sweet melodies from the living room piano. In

the afternoon, we walked down for a swim in the clear, bracing water, then dried ourselves in the early autumn sun like two beached seals. I highly recommend one last high-altitude dip before all the lakes freeze over.

GET A DOG

Nothing makes every moment of the day—and Rocky Mountain living in particular—more fun than a furry friend. Dogs are nature’s greatest gift to humans—loyal, always upbeat and ready for every outdoor adventure. They cheer you up when you’re down, make the good times more fun and keep you in shape with all the “walkies” they require. There are plenty of instant pals ready and waiting to improve your life at the local animal shelter. Make a commitment to giving one of them a chance to enjoy the wonders of Colorado, and you’ll thank yourself for years.

Now, you’re ready for it to snow!

—ELEVATION OUTDOORS EDITOR-AT-LARGE PETER KRAY IS THE AUTHOR OF THE GOD OF SKIING. THE BOOK HAS BEEN CALLED “THE GREATEST SKI NOVEL OF ALL TIME.” DON’T BELIEVE THE HYPE? YOU CAN BUY IT HERE: BIT.LY/GODOFSKIING

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4.8oz. φ 3.9 x 5.5 in

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