Elevation Outdoors October-November 2022

BringWinterOn

Pay Ski Patrol

COLORADO

In Granby, everything’s a little more independent.

Take Fitch Ranch Meats and Market.

From the outside, it looks like a log building that fell out of the sky from a different time. Inside is a cafe with burgers best described as excessive, made with beef straight from the local family ranch. Behind the cafe, you’ll find a market selling that same beef and a host of other meat. After you have the burger, you’ll want the beef.

It’s not what you’ll find everywhere, but that’s kinda the point.

KEEP YOUR COOL

Featuring Sami Sauri and Anthony Richelot, BUFF® ambassadors, on their ride across Las Bardenas Reales, Spain.

DEPARTMENTS

7 EDITOR’S LETTER

Skiing uphill (or down) is a sport of the lungs— and good medicine for a difficult world.

9 QUICK HITS

A deep look at the latest eruption of Iceland’s Fagradalsfjall volcano; big weather predictions for the coming season from OpenSnow; the hottest new ski flicks; women-led business creating a ripple effect; big times in Jackson, Wyoming; and more.

14 FLASHPOINT

The Inflation Reduction Act is the most important bill the U.S. has passed to do something to fight climate change. But what is it? How does it help? And how do outdoorsy Coloradoans benefit from it? We give you a big rundown to understand what it all means for the outdoors.

17 HOT SPOT

Bluebird Backcountry is a resort without the lifts—and that makes all the difference.

19 STRAIGHT TALK

Scott Benerofe thruhiked the Appalachian Trail solo in the winter, overcoming obstacles and discovering joy deep in the backcountry. He talked to us about how he beat the cold.

32 THE ROAD

Looking for a little shot of Mexico to warm up your winter? The State of Yucatán serves up authentic Mayan culture, zip lines, magical swimming holes, ancient ruins, and crocodiles.

34 ELWAYVILLE Winter beats any other season in Colorado, or so says Peter Kray. Go ahead and check off his gotta-do-it list for Colorado’s best season.

FEATURES

21 TOGETHER, WE BARGAIN

Across the West, ski patrollers are organizing and fighting resorts to achieve the better wages and working conditions they deserve.

25 RESORT GEAR

Here’s all the swag you need to crush the hill.

25 THE PERFECT WINTER

Dig in to our annual guide to the best authentic winter escapes in Colorado and Wyoming.

THE COVER

An institution on the cover of Elevation Outdoors, skier Sven Brunso drops into a powder-perfect morning on Coal Bank Pass in southern Colorado.

By Liam Doran liamdoranphotography.com Instagram @liam_doran_outdoors

WANT MORE? CATCH UP ON PAST ISSUES, YOUR FAVORITE BLOGGERS, AND DAILY ONLINE CONTENT AT ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM.

THE JOY OF HUMAN POWER: At Bluebird Backcountry, guests skin up instead of riding lifts. This season, it adds a new reason to celebrate—ski-in hut accommodations. See page 17.

COURTESY

For seekers of the Blank Canvas

First chair or turns earned, the Helicon Lite is the ultimate tool for leaving your own signature on an untracked canvas.

What keeps you warm in winter?

My

have

skiing

notoriously

My Rab Deep Cover down parka and a soak in a hot spring.

CAMERON MARTINDELL

Keeping up with

speedy

track

on

TRACY ROSS

Nordic and backcountry skiing, the glow of my friends and family, and a bottomless Thermos of tea.

RYAN MICHELLE SCAVO

socks and hot coffee.

Skinning uphill, a steady diet of homemade cookies, and cuddling with my husband and our amazing adventure pup, Nala.

WILL BRENDZA

My ear flap hat is my first defense, but my girlfriend, my dog, and a full glass of neat whiskey are close seconds.

COURTNEY HOLDEN

The Cozy Cabin Blend from Boulder's own Ozo Coffee.

JENN FIELDS

Summer is my least favorite season—

that the broiling heat is only a few months away makes it easy to warm to winter's chilliest days.

few cups of

hot coffee

my favorite Bight Gear fleece.

PETER KRAY

love laughing with

the

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

HANNAH COOPER

CHRIS KASSAR

ARIELLA NARDIZZI

BREATHE IN THE WINTER

IN ALL FORMS, SKIING IS A SPORT OF THE LUNGS.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Mention Eldora’s Nordic trails to anyone who has skied on them and you will get the same reaction— they go straight uphill. This is true and it’s exactly why I like skate skiing at my local hill so much. These trails get your heart rate up from the first few pole plants and they don’t let up from there. And over the past few years of collective grief and challenge, I have learned to love the relentless beauty of skiing here (especially on Friday mornings when my wife and I make it our ritual to head up together). The rough effort of simply breathing, of pushing off to glide uphill, the pounding of my heart in my ribs, that sharp bite of cold air in open lungs—it all makes me feel fully alive and connected to the best part of myself. This is the draw of any cardio sport. Your initial concerted effort turns into a rhythm and the joy of deep breathing fueling the blood and big muscles of your legs in a silence only interrupted by the squawks of a Canada jay.

This breath-focused movement is a welcome medicine against the crush of this world, of public news of wars and politicians sowing discord, of our private pains, loss, loneliness, and financial uncertainty. Out here, we can exist in our purest form—if only for the time it takes us to drive out of cell range. After enduring a mass shooting and an apocalyptic wildfire fueled by jet force winds here in Boulder, the chance to really inhale and exhale refocuses us back on the things within our control.

But it’s not just skate skiing that allows us to really breathe. (I confess I am a dork of a Nordic skier. I’m a technical mess in my form and I don’t wear tights and a pom-pom hat—or, wait, does that make me less of a

ORIGINAL RENAISSANCE: THE JOY AND BREATH OF UPHILL SKIING IS NOTHING NEW.

dork?) Skiing in all its forms is a sport of the lungs. Uphill skiing—at Eldora, and A-Basin, and Winter Park, and most resorts these days—is where the sport is finding new energy and new adherents.

Skiing uphill breaks the sport down to a more physical and pure level. You follow the skin track up the mountain; you breathe as you try to keep the pace. Your body fills with oxygen and the rush of endorphins. Then you dip into your skills box to navigate your way down the mountain—edging on groomers, dodging through trees, splashing into untouched stashes. Even if you are a mediocre downhill skier, you can enjoy the full spectrum of the skin-up/skidown experience.

Oddly, the sport is evolving back to its primal roots. Skiing should be a multiskill sport, encompassing the ability to maneuver anywhere on the mountain on those two sticks. While there are few greater joys than clicking into big, aggressive frontside or powder skis—that's just one way to ski.

And don't think that locked-down alpine skiing (and snowboarding for that matter) is not a sport of the lungs either. It's all about flow—and that derives from breath, deep and sweeping. Fight through a tough bump line and you breathe like a sprinter, anaerobically, each exhale releasing a powerful twitch of muscle. Breathe better, fuller, deeper, and you will ski better. I guarantee it.

And finally—and most importantly— skiing and snowboarding give us the experience of inhaling the air of the mountains, of the woods. Up here is free from the claustrophobia, not just of human concerns and neuroses, but also of human exhaust. Like clean water, clean air purifies us. I feel most alive up above 10,000 feet where it takes more work to respire. And I feel a clarity huffing hard in a stand of Douglas fir–that sweet aroma in my lungs, tasting like rejuvenation.

C T O B E R

THE BIG SHOW:

SPECTATORS

THE LATEST OUTPOURING

FIRE SAGA

WE TAKE A FRONT-ROW SEAT TO OBSERVE THE RAW POWER OF ICELAND’S LATEST VOLCANO—AND CONTEMPLATE OUR PLACE ON EARTH.

Fagradalsfjall is Iceland’s most recently active volcano and, on Aug. 3, it once again began discharging impressive quantities of lava via a newly opened rift. In a marriage of fortunate timing, I found myself on a three-day stopover in Reykjavik, just an hour’s drive away from the eruption site. Soon enough, I made the rugged 4-mile hike to see it.

Between the red-hot explosions, steaming bluish gas vents, and a river of lava, the scene was chaotic. Hundreds of people milled about with cameras, as drones buzzed all around. Amid all the excitement and energy, I couldn’t help but think about the human relationship with the natural world. What were some of these people thinking as they raced around documenting their visit? Feeling somewhat overwhelmed, I located a secluded spot to just sit for several hours and be present.

What struck me the most about witnessing the volcano was the immense and unrelenting power of it—a riveting reminder that the very ground under our feet is living, breathing, and changeable moment to moment. Downstream of the eruption, engineers are constructing structures to control the flow of lava. Small dams help to protect buried utility lines. Larger dams are being tested to stop or deviate potentially catastrophic flows from reaching nearby towns and cities. It makes sense to observe a singular event such as a volcanic eruption and feel a need to reduce the immediate threat to our infrastructure and well-being.

What is less obvious, yet equally sensible, is the immediate need to apply the same decision-making principles to other environmental threats, such as climate change. Humans can influence natural processes in innumerable ways—see the lava dams—and the threat of climate change (and thus the safeguarding of our natural resources) is relevant to far more people globally than an isolated volcano in southern Iceland.

Colby Brokvist

WILL IT DUMP THIS WINTER?

OPENSNOW METEOROLOGIST

ALAN SMITH DIGS INTO THE DETAILS AND FORECASTS

A GOOD CHANCE OF A BIG SEASON.

THE 2022–23 WINTER SEASON is just around the corner, and skiers and riders are already curious about how the upcoming season will shape up in terms of snowfall. Winter outlooks contain an inherent degree of uncertainty since so many factors in the atmosphere are not predictable months or even weeks in advance, and climate change is also adding to the complexity of seasonal outlooks. However, there are a few variables—including ENSO (the El Niño Southern Oscillation)—that can provide some clues.

A La Niña pattern was present during the previous two winters (2020–21 and 2021–22). This occurs when sea surface temperatures are colder than average across the eastern equatorial Pacific Ocean. Confidence is growing that a third consecutive La Niña will occur this winter—something that meteorologists have termed a “Triple Dip La Niña.” Back-toback La Niña winters are fairly common, but three consecutive La Niñas are rare.

A La Niña pattern has persisted into the summer of 2022, and long-range models

have been projecting a higher than average chance of a La Niña continuing into the winter of 2022–23, before possibly weakening in the spring of 2023.

If another La Niña were to verify this winter, it would only be the third time since 1950

West. Will the (likely) La Niña winter of 2022–23 finally deliver the goods? It’s too early to say, but there are at least a few reasons for optimism.

Since 1980, when clusters of two or more La Niña winters have occurred, at least one of

feature a La Niña combined with a westerly phase of the QBO appear to have a better chance of being wetter (and thus, snowier) than average across a large portion of the Western U.S.

The image below shows precipitation anomalies during these “analog” years.

THIS NOAA FORECAST (ABOVE) SHOWS THE PROBABILITY OF A LA NIÑA, EL NIÑO, AND NEUTRAL PHASE FOR EACH THREE-MONTH PERIOD BETWEEN THE SUMMER OF 2022 AND THE SPRING OF 2023. BLUE BARS SHOW THE PERCENT CHANCE OF A LA NIÑA, AND THE “DJF” LABEL IS FOR “DECEMBER-JANUARY-FEBRUARY”.

that three consecutive La Niñas occurred. Every La Niña winter is different, but, in general, they favor above-average snowfall across the Pacific Northwest and Northern Rockies, and below-average snowfall across the Southwest. Correlations are weak for Colorado, Utah, and Tahoe.

Sometimes, La Niña winters can be snowier than average across nearly the entire Western United States, with recent examples including 2007–08, 2010–11, and to some extent 2016–17. However, the past two winters (which were both La Niñas) were underwhelming for snowfall across most of the

the winters ended up being a “big winter” across a large portion of the West. While there is no scientific reasoning for this, if history is any indication, then the odds of 2022–23 being a good winter are decent.

Another long-range variable that can influence winter patterns is the Quasi-Biennial Oscillation (QBO), which describes trade wind patterns in the tropics. A westerly phase of the QBO is expected to occur this winter. This is a phase that has shown some correlation with aboveaverage winter precipitation across the Western U.S.

Although the sample size is admittedly small, winters that

THE DEPARTURE FROM AVERAGE PRECIPITATION DECEMBER THROUGH MARCH DURING THE LA NIÑA/ WESTERLY QBO ANALOG WINTERS OF 2008–09, 2010–11, 2016–17, AND 2020–21. GREEN AREAS SHOW WETTER (WHICH USUALLY MEANS SNOWIER) WEATHER.

Keep in mind that no matter how deep or light a winter is overall, when it comes to skiing, it’s all about timing. Booking a trip seven to 10 days in advance and for a general area that looks stormy will increase your chances of scoring deep powder days.

Download the free OpenSnow app (opensnow.com/ app) to help plan your upcoming winter season. Resources include 10-day snow forecasts, daily analysis from local forecasters, high-resolution weather maps, and custom snow alerts so that you never miss another powder day.

Alan Smith, meteorologist for OpenSnow

TECHNOLOGY GEAR WE LOVE BOOKS

GARMIN FENIX 7

The feature set on this watch is truly dizzying. You get tracking metrics for nearly every sport, a bright and easy to read screen, fitness metrics, detailed maps, music, payments, safety monitoring, and up to 38 days of battery life thanks to solar charging on Solar and Solar Sapphire models. Available in three styles and sizes. $700–$1,000 | GARMIN.COM

MESSERMEISTER OVERLAND

CHEF 8-INCH CHEF’S KNIFE

Designed in collaboration with Coloradobased Overland chef Jason Nicosia, and made in Maniago, Italy, this blade has Nitro-B steel with a 62 HRC rating and a canvas Micarta handle for a sure grip. It’s built to be rugged and versatile for tasks around the campsite. $250 |

NATURE SWAGGER

As founder and CEO of Outdoor Afro, Rue Mapp aims to inspire Black communities to enjoy and explore the natural world. With inspiring stories from prominent Black leaders and some history to put it all in context, Mapp outlines many of the benefits of Black joy in the outdoors.

|

HOT NEW SKI FLICKS

THESE THREE SKI FILMS DROPPING THIS FALL WILL HOLD YOU OVER UNTIL IT’S TIME TO HIT THE SLOPES.

Magic Hour

Teton Gravity Research

TGR never fails to disappoint and Magic Hour, which dropped on Sep. 17, is no exception. Filmed in the most jaw-dropping backcountry regions across North America, the flick chases a crew on its quest for a culmination of “right time, right place” moments in the “magic hour” of the day. The film also features some of the biggest names in the industry, showcasing the likes of Jeremy Jones, Sam Smoothey, and Tim Durtschi. tetongravity.com

Daymaker

Warren Miller

The 73rd annual film takes us on a wild ride across the globe. From Snowmass’s biggest party of the winter to a Warren Miller superfan’s fairy-tale-come-true of skiing Snowbasin with Jonny Moseley and Mascus Caston, and the excitement of heliskiing with adaptive skier Pete McAfee, there’s no shortage of excitement in this collection of adventures, premiering on Oct. 26. warrenmiller.com

Anywhere From Here

Matchstick Productions

What do you want to be when you grow up? Matchstick’s ski film, dropping in October, explores the world of skiing from the lens of a 12-yearold freestyle phenom who just wants to play in the mountains. Featuring incredible accomplishments of a starstudded cast like Sam Kuch, Tonje Kvivik, and Emily Childs, this film should inspire the next generation of shredders. matchstickpro.com

EAT PLAY STAY: JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING

THE LEGEND AMONG MOUNTAIN TOWNS LIVES UP TO THE HYPE.

EAT

Leisurely paced mornings make Persephone Bakery ( persephonebakery.com) a perfect first stop in town. Set in a chic and airy building that feels like a comfortable farmhouse kitchen. There’s is no wrong choice of food or drink here. With French and American café inspirations and a devoted ethos of sourcing local ingredients, the line may be long, but the wait is worth it once you’re sitting on the open deck and absorbing the morning beams. For lunch, the fabulous Mangy Moose Saloon ( mangymoose.com) in the resort base area offers a casual atmosphere and excellent food. Again, local sourcing drives the menu, and delicious homestyle

cooking presents the risk of eating a bit more than necessary—your lunch break might just extend a little longer than intended. For dinner, make a reservation at The Silver Dollar Bar & Grill (worthotel.com/silver-dollar-bar ), l ocated inside the historic Worth Hotel and just around the corner from the Town Square. Here, you can enjoy a great meal and listen to live music while gazing at the beautiful people.

PLAY

For the skier, the draw is obvious. For over 50 years, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort ( jacksonhole .com) has been a bucket-list item for skiers and riders across the world. With an average of 450 inches of snow a season, the resort has no shortage of powder stashes, and there are plenty of pucker-inducing lines and the infamous drop, Corbet’s

Couloir itself. And for those eager to avoid the lift, neighboring Grand Teton National Park ( nps. gov/grte) is a backcountry skier’s paradise. Tap into the expertise of the world renowned Exum Guides (exumguides.com) to match any level of backcountry skier to the best terrain for them, and be ready to level up. Those eager to see some wildlife can choose from a number of tour options from Wildlife Expeditions (tetonscience .org), the original tour provider in the greater Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Its autumn outings offer chances to see bears, wolves, moose, and more, and to hear the bugling call of the elk.

STAY

Located kitty-corner to the heart of downtown’s hub, Jackson’s Town Square, the luxurious Hotel Jackson ( hoteljackson.com) is in just the right spot for taking advantage of all the in-town goodies. It also offers shuttle service to both local ski areas. With just 50 rooms, four suites, spacious lounge areas, and the awardwinning in-house Figs restaurant, this modern build is comfortable and convenient. The space is also perfect for families, as the staff has families of their own, and they take the time to get to know their guests and can often predict a family’s needs.

—Cameron Martindell

LADY

A WOMEN-OWNED

CREATE A MASSIVE

WOMEN’S OUTDOOR APPAREL

brand Wild Rye is well known for funky, nature-inspired graphics (Sawtooth Mocha and Midnight Poppy are our faves) and bike shorts that actually fit women’s bodies (hallelujah!).

Led by founder Cassie Abel, the brand is also moving mountains when it comes to building women’s confidence, both on the trail and off. “I’d worked in and around the bike, ski, action, and outdoor sports industries for much of my career, [and I] saw a serious shortage of women in everything,” Abel says. So when she started Wild Rye, she decided to do something about it.

In addition to acting as the official sponsor of Ladies

AllRide, a series of women’s mountain bike camps and clinics, Wild Rye is a financial partner to female empowerment-focused nonprofits SheJumps and World Ride. Beyond the saddle, the brand donates to Planned Parenthood, and Abel herself founded an annual holiday, Women-Led Wednesday,

which encourages holiday shoppers to “vote for women in leadership” and buy from women-owned businesses on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving. (Mark your calendar for Nov. 23!)

“The ultimate goal is a massive ripple effect,” Abel says of the shopping holiday. If consumers buy from women-

owned businesses, then these businesses will succeed, which means more women in the corner office, more female role models, and thus “more opportunities for young upand-coming women in business to soar to the top in the future!”

—Courtney Holden

Find Your Place in the Wild

WILD RIDE: CASSIE ABEL'S WILD RYE IS PUTTING WOMEN AT THE FOREFRONT.

SILVERTHORNE, COLORADO

Explore the heart of Summit County and discover where art meets adventure. Enjoy miles of hiking and biking trails, fishing along the famed waters of the Blue River, a show at the Silverthorne Performing Arts Center or attend a signature First Friday event. Find your next adventure in Silverthorne!

ALL SEASON COMFORT

From your living room to a backcountry cabin, the FieldDay Blanket inspires relaxation by keeping you cozy any time of the year.

LANDMARK

LEGISLATION

THE INFLATION REDUCTION ACT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT BILL THE U.S. HAS PASSED TO DO SOMETHING TO FIGHT CLIMATE CHANGE. BUT WHAT IS IT? HOW DOES IT HELP? AND HOW DO OUTDOORSY COLORADANS BENEFIT FROM IT? WE GIVE YOU A BIG RUNDOWN TO UNDERSTAND WHAT IT ALL MEANS.

by JENN FIELDS

The Inflation Reduction Act doesn’t have the word “climate” in it, but this bill, signed into law by President Joe Biden in August, is so jampacked with provisions designed to lower our carbon emissions and boost our climate resilience, you wouldn’t be wrong to think of the IRA as that big climate bill from 2022. (In reality, the IRA also includes a $34.2 billion

boost to Medicare and $64.1 in Affordable Care Act subsidies.)

“The comprehensive nature of this demonstrates a real willingness to engage across all aspects, from transportation to manufacturing to the energy sector to individuals,” says Max Boykoff, a professor of environmental sciences and department chair at CU Boulder, and a fellow at the Cooperative Institute for Research in Environmental Sciences.

Yes, the bill includes plenty of tax credits individuals can claim. However, Boykoff frames it in more universal terms: “This is an industrial policy bill. This is not chipping away.” It’s designed to reduce emissions across sectors, and it sends a signal to industry, he says, offering an example in the production credit for wind energy. “It’s on the books for 10 years, so it creates predictability for the wind power sector, which has a durable impact.”

“There are many of these kinds of signals,” says Boykoff. “In the transportation sector, the tax credit rebates are associated with production of the battery—it has to be made in the

U.S.,” Boykoff continues. “So it’s meant to stimulate the manufacturing sector, and that’s providing jobs. And they’re going to be dignified; they’re going to be good-paying jobs.”

But what’s in this $369 billion bill that the average outdoor-loving Coloradan can get in on? The IRA also includes provisions that will incentivize individuals and small business owners to buy an EV, or even reconsider how you heat your home or office. “This is an industry where, with the right incentive structure, there will be good adoption of EVs for guides—or for whoever is driving a lot,” says Conor Hall, director of Colorado’s Outdoor Recreation Industry Office.

Another way every Coloradan will feel the IRA? Some researchers are estimating the bill alone will create a 40% reduction in carbon from 2005 levels by 2030.

What’s in the IRA

Tax credits for Clean Energy, EVs, Appliances, and More

Hall notes that a lot of people he’s talked with in the outdoor industry were particularly excited about these

tax credits… once they figure them all out. This is a huge—and complicated— category in the IRA that includes a slew of new clean energy tax breaks, and in some cases, extends existing credits for solar, wind, EVs, and even home appliances. Individuals and businesses can claim these credits, as can utilities—that’s designed to incentivize a lower-carbon grid.

If you’re a homeowner, you’ll be able to get tax breaks on things like putting solar panels on your house, swapping out your old HVAC for a heat pump (that’s $2,000 alone) or appliance upgrades, like ditching your gas range for induction (a $840 rebate).

There’s also a major new incentive on EVs, which get $14.2 billion alone in tax credits for both new and used electric vehicles in the new legislation. The state of Colorado already offers a $2,500 tax credit for new EVs and $1,500 on a two-year (or more) lease, but starting in 2023, Coloradans will also be able to claim a federal tax credit of $7,500 for a new car and $4,000 for a used EV. That’s $10,000 total on a new EV.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN UPLIFT: THE IRA INCLUDES MUCH-NEEEDED FUNDS FOR NATIONAL PARKS.

The EV tax credit is an example of how the IRA built layers in to support entire industries (think: mining, materials, engineering, manufacturing) here in America. For an EV purchase to qualify for a tax credit, a percentage of the battery components must be made or assembled in America, and that percentage increases every year. There are even requirements for where the battery minerals originated.

Because there are so many available tax credits, and because of those aforementioned layers, the White House launched a website, cleanenergy.gov, in September to help consumers suss it all out.

Methane Reduction

You’ve heard of methane, but think way beyond the cow burps: Landfills are sources of this powerful greenhouse gas, as are leaks in oil and gas production, and transportation. Methane is, unfortunately, very good at warming in the short term: Its lifespan in our atmosphere is shorter than carbon’s, but over 20 years, methane is 84–86 times more powerful when it comes to trapping heat. With so much warming power, many climate experts believe it’s a good idea to focus on reducing methane emissions, as we’re also drawing down carbon.

The IRA sets limits on methane flares and other forms of methane leakage at oil and gas operations—an issue familiar to Coloradans.

“Colorado’s at the forefront with state-level rules, regulations, and laws on this, but this actually does address leaks with financial penalties,” says Boykoff. But the IRA also sets a royalty fee on methane extraction on public lands and adds funding to the EPA for regulation of the new limits. “What’s promising here is that you can put these laws in place, but if you don’t monitor them, it’s worthless,” he adds.

Another feature of the IRA’s methane regulations is they go beyond regulating leakage at the point of extraction. “Part of the law is going to address the supply chain—across trucks and pipelines—and actually make a significant dent,” says Boykoff.

National Parks and Forest Funding

The IRA includes multiple provisions that will affect Colorado’s national parks and other public lands, including $1.8 billion for hazardous fuel reduction on USFS land and $250 million for resiliency projects on BLM land, as well as funding to hire in these understaffed agencies.

“We need a lot more to really dig out of this backlog, but this is a really serious investment,” says Hall. “I’m cautiously optimistic that we’re seeing some real funding being put toward wildfire mitigation—still not enough, but more than we’ve had historically.”

The IRA also gives the NPS a muchneeded staffing boost.

“There’s $500 million set aside to hire for the National Parks Service, so that starts to address some of the chronic underfunding and chronic understaffing of the parks,” Hall said. “I was just talking with one of the Forest Service leaders here in Colorado earlier this week, and they are, for the first time in a long time, starting to hire for 12 positions, and that will help with permitting, which has been an issue for many of our outfitters, and that will help with recreation management. Across the board, it’s going to be really helpful.”

Green Bank, Urban Trees, and Other Environmental Justice Provisions

The IRA includes several provisions for environmental justice, ranging from funding for the Federal Highway Administration to improve safety and walkability in economically disadvantaged neighborhoods to funding urban forestry initiatives that will plant more trees in neighborhoods that are hotter due to historic racist policies. (In Denver, neighborhoods with higher heat vulnerability tend to have a lower

average income and have more Brown and Black residents than cooler neighborhoods.)

“We were thrilled to see that urban tree initiative to support forestry and urban tree initiatives,” says Hall. “It’s tremendously positive for climate and urban areas. We’ve known for a long time we need to plant a lot more trees.”

The IRA also funds a $27 billion Greenhouse Gas Reduction Fund to launch a national “green bank.” It’s designed to be an incubator for innovative GHG reduction projects, and $15 billion is specifically earmarked for low-income and disadvantaged communities.

Boykoff notes this is another comprehensive aspect of the IRA—it acknowledges not everyone is a homeowner who gets those solar credits. “It earmarks money for community solar, so it’s not just for homeowners, it’s for the community,” he says.

What’s in the IRA That Might Surprise You

Oil and Gas Leasing

The IRA mandates the lease of federal public lands and waters for oil and gas drilling. The IRA ties wind and solar leases to oil and gas: Offshore and on public lands, the government can’t lease out public lands for wind or

solar unless it has offered up a certain amount for oil and gas development. However, though the leases must be offered to oil and gas, they’re not required to be sold. Boykoff says his take on this provision of the bill was optimistic. “You look at the way those land leases have actually been utilized, less than 3% that are leased are used,” he says. “Maybe many of these offerings will be leased and developed, but recent past has shown otherwise.”

What’s Not in the IR A Civilian Climate Corps

Rep. Joe Neguse, a Democrat representing Colorado’s 2nd Congressional District, has been pushing for several years for a modernday version of the Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps. His 21st Century Conservation Corps Act would have funded $9 billion for a youth corps dedicated to climate resilience projects, with an eye here in Colorado toward wildfire mitigation. The modern CCC didn’t make the final version of the bill that went to the president’s desk, but considering Neguse’s enthusiasm for it, we doubt his fight for a new CCC is over.

UNSPLASH,

UNSPALSH,

A BILL FOR THE FUTURE: THE IRA WILL HELP TREES, ELECTRIC VEHICLES, AND PUBLIC LANDS.

elevated seltzer Colorado Hard Seltzer

@ElvtdSltzr

RESORT

IS A

SKIING

WITHOUT THE

WITH

THE

by CHRIS KASSAR

THAT

Curious about backcountry skiing, but feeling intimidated?

Wish there was a safe place to try out skinning and practice skiing ungroomed slopes even if you’re new to it all? Or do you just yearn to rack up some backcountry laps in a safe environment? Look no further. Entering its third full season, Bluebird Backcountry delivers avalanchemanaged powder, stellar ski-patrolled terrain, rentals, lessons, camping, and a welcoming vibe that is sure to make everyone—no matter their level of experience—feel at home. Did we mention, it’s also dog-friendly?

Perched on the Continental Divide between Steamboat Springs and Kremmling, Bluebird offers a huge variety of terrain, from gladed trees to extreme steeps. Chairlifts are nonexistent here so you’ll climb preset skin tracks powered only by your lungs and legs. There are no snowcats either. Your uphill efforts are rewarded with ungroomed, and often untracked, runs. Located on Bear Mountain, Bluebird boasts over 4,200 acres of skiable terrain with 1,200 acres patrolled and managed for avalanches, while the other 3,000 are reserved for exploration with a guide. Each run offers a different twist—from open turns to tight trees. Adrenaline junkies will want to check out the Couloir Zone, a super-steep section of the avalanche-managed, patrolled area offering extreme gullies ranging from 37 to 45 degrees. Those looking for less pucker factor, more meadow skipping and aspen grove cruising will want to explore the green and blue runs in the West Bowl. Each year, the trail system continues to evolve alongside the vision for Bluebird (since opening, the resort has added six new advanced options on the North Face).

Since Bluebird is continually adding new marked skin tracks, you can easily access new stashes.

LEARNING

Focused on creating a safe and friendly learning atmosphere, Bluebird

prides itself on offering unmatched opportunities to develop backcountry and avalanche skills regardless of experience. To create effective learning experiences, Bluebird puts extra effort into developing unique courses and hiring dedicated educators who make all feel welcome. In addition to a slew of AIARE Avalanche Education Courses, Bluebird is offering two new, unique AIARE 1 courses for the 2022–23 season: one for snowshoers and one for women. The resort has also developed a Backcountry Progression series aimed at developing competence in all skills required for backcountry travel, so even beginners can feel prepared to tackle avalanche courses. Advanced courses (e.g. Ski Mountaineering), avalanche refreshers, and Education Memberships (packages of classes paired with premium educational content on a community platform) are just some of Bluebird’s additional educational offerings.

VIBING

STAY HERE: Here’s another way Bluebird keeps it real: It offers on-site camping so you can wake up and hit the uphill without any commute. Located right in the parking lot and open Thursday through Sunday nights, the camping area includes community picnic tables, fire pits, port-a-potties, sunset views, and the chance to connect with other backcountry-minded

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS: AT BLUEBIRD, YOU EARN YOUR POW—IN SAFE CONDITIONS.

folks. Cost is a reasonable $25 per vehicle per night. But you don’t have to camp. This season, the resort has added rustic lodging in the form of cabins and geodesic domes reached via a 2-mile skin trip. It’s a hut trip experience without the hassle. Reservations start at $59 per night.

DOG DAYS, EVERY DAY: Starting this season, dogs are allowed on the mountain every day it’s open. All 2022–23 season passes include unlimited dog passes, and individual dog passes are also available.

SWEET SEASON PASS OPTIONS & BENEFITS: Buy a 2022–23 season pass and get unlimited and guaranteed mountain access, no reservations required. And the benefits don’t stop there. You also score one guest pass; buddy codes for 20%-off day passes; five nights of camping; and discounts on equipment rentals, food, and merch. New for 2022–23, passholders also get free days at Arapahoe Basin, Monarch Mountain, Sunlight Mountain, and Powderhorn. To match all different needs and budgets, Bluebird also offers the Next Gen Season Pass for anyone 26 or younger, and the Weekday Season Pass good for Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays all winter long. Season pass pricing in October starts at $229 for the Weekday and Next Gen passes and $329 for the unlimited 2022–23 Season Pass.

History. Heritage. Craft CULTURE. The Great Outdoors. Your Ticket to the Wild West.

The world comes out west expecting to see cowboys driving horses through the streets of downtown; pronghorn butting heads on windswept bluffs; clouds encircling the towering pinnacles of the Cloud Peak Wilderness; and endless expanses of wild, open country. These are some of the fibers that have been stitched together over time to create the patchwork quilt of Sheridan County’s identity, each part and parcel to the Wyoming experience. Toss in a historic downtown district, with western allure, hospitality and good graces to spare; a vibrant art scene; bombastic craft culture; a robust festival and events calendar; small town charm from one historic outpost to the next; and living history on every corner, and you have a golden ticket to the adventure of a lifetime.

COLD FEAT

SCOTT BENEROFE THRUHIKED THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL SOLO IN THE WINTER, OVERCOMING OBSTACLES AND DISCOVERING JOY DEEP IN THE BACKCOUNTRY.

by ARIELLA NARDIZZI

On Dec. 5, 2021, Scott Benerofe embarked on an intense undertaking that would lead to months of summiting peaks in whiteout conditions, breaking trail for hours at a time, slogging under a 70-pound backpack, and fording icy rivers in the midst of winter. His southbound thruhike of the Appalachian Trail (AT) was completed on May 5, 2022—exactly five months after he began this journey of self-reflection on a trail near and dear to his heart.

After thru-hiking the AT northbound in 2019, what made you turn around and want to do it again, but as a southbound winter-thru-hike?

I wanted to spend a winter outside. I realized this would be an awesome chance to revisit the trail and see it in another light. I have all these memories over all these different phases of my life in these mountains. On my most recent thru-hike in 2022, I remember as I was going further south how I felt coming north back in 2019. The closer I got to Georgia, the younger the shadow of myself got and it was interesting to reconnect with how I felt during those early days on trail. I had more to get out of the trail, and this was a good way to do it. I never felt like I really had my back up against the wall in 2019, and I wanted to see what I was capable of.

Did you ever consider quitting? How did you overcome challenges on the trail?

Almost every day. It was really tough to grapple with just how slowly I was moving. The days were shorter, so I hiked in the dark a lot. My pack, at its heaviest, was about 70 pounds. For the first two months, I averaged about 9 miles per day. Some days, I’d be breaking trail and/or weathering a storm, and could only muster 2 or 3 miles for the day. When you don’t see or talk to another person for almost eight days, you have to be your own support system.

Every morning, I’d wake up and my body ached. It’s so bitterly cold and I know exactly what it’s going to take to get through the day. It felt like a tsunami every morning, just too much to handle. My head would already be at the end of the day, and I was still sitting in my sleeping bag in the morning, not knowing how to get there. I had to learn to not let myself spiral out of control in those moments, how to be kinder to myself. Every day I got through these challenges made me feel more capable.

Tell us about some of your favorite moments on trail. I just love hiking. The days are shorter in the winter, but that also meant I got to see almost every sunrise and sunset. I was always hiking late and the stars were beautiful. I was fording one of the rivers in Maine’s 100 Mile Wilderness, breaking through ice, and wading through freezing water, and I just stopped in the middle of the river for a second. I looked around in awe— it was sort of a surreal moment where I really understood the gravity of what I was doing. I love feeling so small in this huge wilderness. Just feeling the power of everything around me was incredible. Having those really hard moments out there were also

beautiful too, in their own way. They didn’t feel that way in the moment, but that’s why I’m out there—for the difficult moments.

You claim you’re just an ordinary guy who accomplished an extraordinary feat. Elaborate on this.

I’m just some dude who really likes hiking. It’s as simple as that. It’s hard to compare my winter thru-hike to anybody else’s, winter or not. At the end of the day, what it all boils down to is getting what I wanted out of my hike and having a good time. This mindset takes a lot of pressure off of needing to go faster or do more extreme things. Check in with your intentions. Are you doing this hike for the right reasons? It forced me to check in with where my boundaries are and not feel bad about that.

What did you learn from this trip and how did it change you?

I had to practice my inner dialogue. At the end of the day, instead of beating myself up for not handling something better, I would take a step back and recognize it was hard, and give myself a little more grace. This was a chance to sit with everything going on in my life, good and bad, and give myself the space to think. We get so busy in our lives and it’s

too easy to cut out time alone. I really leaned into letting everything come up. But there's nothing quite like standing on a mountain with everything I need on my back and looking at the horizon, only to show up on that horizon days later. It’s humbling, really. This experience really changed the way I treat myself, and helped me discover what I’m capable of, mentally and physically.

BIG PERSPECTIVE: BENEROFE IS ONLY ONE OF EIGHT RECORDED PEOPLE TO COMPLETE A SOUTHBOUND WINTER THRUHIKE OF THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL.

Together, We Bargain

ACROSS THE WEST, SKI PATROLLERS ARE ORGANIZING AND FIGHTING RESORTS TO ACHIEVE THE BETTER WAGES AND WORKING CONDITIONS THEY FEEL THEY DESERVE.

by WILL BRENDZA

IN JANUARY OF 2022, THE PARK CITY Professional Ski Patrol Association (PCPSPA) was about to enter its 50th round of negotiations with Vail Resorts. And they were buzzing with frustration. The patrollers’ contract with the resort had expired almost 1 1/2 years prior in November 2020. At the time, the base salary for a ski patroller was just $13.25 per hour—a meager rate for the long days patrollers spend working in challenging conditions, on dangerous terrain, using explosives, saving lives, administering emergency on-mountain care, and making mountains safer to ski. They wanted $17 an hour. With the rising cost of living in and around a ski town like Park City, that only seemed fair. So they began negotiations with Vail Resorts. But when unions enter negotiations, workplace conditions freeze. Schedules stay the same. No new gear

is purchased. And pay rates lock in place. So over the next 17 months, as all other employees at Park City saw pay raises, ski patrollers did not. By January of 2022, they were the lowest-paid Vail employees in the resort. They’d been offered $15 an hour, but it wasn’t enough. The patrollers knew Vail could meet their demands; they knew Park City couldn’t possibly operate if they went on strike; and, more than all of that, they knew what they were asking for was reasonable. So they held out— month after month, bargaining session after bargaining session, nearly two full ski seasons in a row.

"

Resort in New Hampshire.

“Our company Vail needs temp patrollers at Park City,” the message read. “Anyone interested? All travel plus $600 a day for costs covered.”

It was a slap in the face of the ski patrollers—$600 a day on top of travel expenses? That’s almost six times what the Park City patrollers were making at the time. Authorized or not, that email was the last straw for PCPSPA. The situation had reached a boiling point.

THEY DIDN’T GET EVERYTHING THEY’D HOPED FOR, DINEEN ADMITS, BUT NEITHER DID VAIL RESORTS. WHICH IS THE NATURE OF NEGOTIATIONS.

Then the email leaked. Vail Resorts still denies it was an official correspondence—that it was “not authorized” by the company. But the Salt Lake Tribune independently verified the email came from a Vail Resorts employee. It was signed by a patrol director and sent to patrollers at the Vail-owned Attitash Mountain

That email leaked on a Thursday in January. The following Monday, the union had voted almost unanimously—168 to 6 (98%)—to strike if the $17 per hour demand wasn’t met. And without ski patrol to protect and oversee the mountain, everything would come to a grinding halt.

“We were very close to walking,” says Lee Moriarti, a Park City ski patroller involved in their union negotiations. “We were at a point where it was contract or strike.”

Park City’s situation got closer to an actual strike than it has elsewhere, but labor movements aren’t an uncommon trend among ski patrols these days. They aren’t new either. Ski patrollers at all four of Aspen’s resorts unionized in 1965. Then Crested Butte’s unionized in the late ’70s, followed by Breckenridge in the mid-’80s. Steamboat ski patrol unionized in 1999; Canyons in 2000; Killington in 2001; and Telluride in 2015. Most recently, Purgatory patrollers voted to unionize toward the end of 2022’s ski season.

However, even among ski patrollers, unions aren’t universally supported—as evidenced by the saga at Breckenridge. That ski patrol had been one of the first to unionize in the country. But in 2004, the patrol reneged, decertifying as a union, and remaining un-unionized for over a decade and a half. Until 2021.

“We didn't have much of a voice, and we weren't necessarily valued as a department,” says Ryan Anderson, a nine-year Breckenridge ski patroller who helped lead the unionization efforts. “We just kind of were taken

WINNING: THE BRECKENRIDGE SKI PATROL UNIONIZED IN 2021.

PASSION AND DEDICATION: EVERY DAY, PROFESSIONAL SKI PATROLLERS ENGAGE IN A JOB FILLED WITH MOMENTS OF JOY (HELLO, FRESH TURNS AND CUTE DOGS), AS WELL AS REAL DANGER WORKING WITH EXPLOSIVES IN BRUTAL WEATHER CONDITIONS—BUT THEY GET COMPENSATED AT A RATE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OCCUPATIONAL PAY SCALE.

for granted.”Breckenridge’s full-time patrollers didn’t have paid time off or sick leave; there was no employee housing available for them; staffing was inadequate; and, just like at Park City, Breck’s patrollers didn’t think their compensation was fair.

All of that had been simmering for several seasons. But, Anderson says the real lens that exposed how little Vail was willing to do for them was COVID-19. The pandemic brought a whole new set of rules that ski patrollers needed to follow in order to stay safe. They needed to wear PPE whenever they interacted with guests; they had to practice social distancing in the locker rooms; and could only have a few patrollers in a warming hut at any one time— which resulted in several cases of frost-nip among Anderson’s colleagues.

“There didn't seem to be much action by the company to give us a valid working environment to accommodate those [COVID-19] rules,” he says. Most patrollers were on-board for the extra health precautions; they just didn’t feel supported to practice them, and it was making work very difficult. “I had a few coworkers in the space of a week say they didn't know if they were coming in on Monday.”

That did it for Anderson. He and a few other like-minded patrollers, like Ryan Dineen, who had a decade at Breckenridge under his belt, got together and started circulating a union petition.

“We didn't want to leave our profession,” says Anderson. “So we had to attempt it.”

The union petition went around and the signatures stacked up. When they had enough (overwhelmingly, with more than 70% of the patrollers signing), they filed it at the end of March 2021 with the Colorado Department of Labor and Employment.

Not only did that notify Vail that its Breckenridge patrollers were attempting to unionize, but it started a clock. The patrollers had six weeks before they officially voted to become a union, over which time, Vail Resorts held numerous captive audience meetings and sent letters to patrol managers, trying to discourage them from staying the course.

“Our employer chose to travel the well-worn path of an anti-union campaign,” says Dineen. “And the purpose of any anti-union campaign is not necessarily to make logical arguments. ... It's truly to spread disinformation... to disempower, divide, and delude the collective voice that workers need to make real change.”

The arguments against unionizing ranged from: Do you really know what you’re signing on for? To, What if you can’t negotiate a better contract?

“And their favorite one is, A union is a third party that's just going to get in the way of us communicating,” says Dineen, even though, without one, patrollers had no negotiating power with which to communicate.

On the day of the vote, Dineen had no idea what to expect. The month before, patrollers at Big Sky had voted in favor of unionizing, and patrollers at Keystone had rejected unionization. At Breckenridge it could easily have gone either way, he says.

When the results came back, it was a tight margin by any measure: 43–42 in favor of unionizing. The Breckenridge ski patrol would officially become part of the United Professional Ski Patrol of America (UPSPA), a chapter of the Communication Workers of America (CWA).

“There was definitely a moment of like, ‘Oh, my God, we won,’” Dineen recalls. “And then it was like, ‘Oh, my God, we only won by one vote.’”

That narrow victory made it clear how much work they had ahead of them, Dineen says. He and his colleagues worked all summer long laying the groundwork for negotiations so when winter rolled around again, they could hit the ground running. And that’s exactly what they did.

Unlike the Park City patrollers, the Breckenridge ski patrol reached a deal with their resort fairly quickly. In just eight sessions, they’d hashed out a satisfactory contract. They didn’t get everything they’d hoped for, Dineen admits, but neither did Vail Resorts. Which is the nature of negotiations.

“We were able to come to an agreement quickly,” he says. “I was very pleased with how things went.”

After decades of dormancy, labor movements like these ski patrol unionizations have seen a resurgence in recent years. Just in the first

nine months of 2022, there was a 58% increase in petitions for union elections. Workers at Amazon, Starbucks, REI, American Airlines, Kaiser Permanente, and at ski resorts across the country (not just Vail’s) have been engaging in walkouts, protests, practice strikes, and actual strikes. Right now, support for labor unions is higher than it’s been since 1965, at 68% according to recent Gallup polls.

No matter who you’re working for, working conditions have a much better chance of improving if the workers stand in solidarity, Anderson says. As he puts it, “Alone, we beg; together, we bargain.”

And for ski patrollers, bargaining power is a good thing to have. On the compensation list of U.S. occupations, out of a total of 1,395 types of jobs, patrollers rank 1,363rd. Anderson attributes that to the seasonal nature of their work, and the fact that most workers in the ski industry only stay for a year or two.

“The impermanence of the workforce allows for a massive amount of undercompensation,” says Anderson. “And without a voice in the process, I don't see that changing.”

We reached out to Vail Resorts numerous times with interview requests. Eventually, it responded with the following written statement: “While we respect the right of team members to choose to have an outside third party represent their employment terms, we fundamentally believe our team is strongest when we have a direct and open relationship. This helps us maintain personal connection, foster an inclusive culture, and reward performance.”

the end of its 50th negotiation session, the PCPSPA walked out with a contract. It was a marathon 15 hours of negotiations, but in the end, the patrollers got their $17 per hour and a contract that both parties could agree to, narrowly avoiding the strike.

At

It was a monumental victory for Park City’s ski patrollers.

“We're optimistic, looking forward. We feel like we're in a good place,” says Lee Moriarti, with Park City ski patrol. “The contract that we have now is a good contract and a good stepping stone moving forward.”

Then, in March 2022, just two months after Park City’s contract agreement, Vail Resorts announced “a new direction for the company.” Among other adjustments, Vail was raising the minimum wage across all of its 37 North American resorts to $20 per hour for all of its employees—and $21 per hour for ski patrollers with adjustments based on leadership and “career stage differentials.”

Moriarti says she and other Park City patrollers feel pretty good about that.

“We put a lot of pressure on the company to rethink what is fair pay for people living in mountain towns,” she says. “I think that's a really positive thing that we're seeing.”

Dineen agrees that raising the minimum wage was a good idea, but with some caveats.

“It is not lost on me that the base wages offered are similar to wages that ski patrols have proposed in the past during contract negotiations,” he says. “It does not build trust or honor the spirit of mutual respect when one party claims they simply cannot raise wages

during negotiations only to do exactly that after the contract has been signed.”

Even with Park City’s and Breckenridge’s victories behind them, the work isn’t over for these ski patrol unions. The work is never over, Dineen says—which is why he’s taken on a part-time role with the CWA as an organizer for UPSPA, helping other ski patrol units to navigate the strange and complicated waters of unionization. The whole experience has really opened his eyes to the power of organized labor. Neither he nor Anderson had any real personal experience with unions prior to this—now they both see unionization as an absolutely essential aspect of their employment.

“The ski industry needs to join the labor movement because the ski industry, in my opinion, is built on a vastly undercompensated workforce,” says Anderson. “This is almost a necessary step for the long-term success of ski industry workforce personnel.”

Dineen echoes those sentiments.

“I would recommend unionization for every ski patroller, lift mechanic, cat driver, ski school teacher, hotel worker, maintenance person,” says Dineen, whether they’re employed by a big resort corporation or a small mom-and-pop ski area. “Collectively, we are a huge generator of capital for a small number of people. And we deserve to collectively be compensated fairly for that.”

STANDING UP: PATROLLERS AT RESORTS INCLUDING BRECKENRIDGE AND PARK CITY ARE BRINGING MANAGEMENT TO THE BARGAINING TABLE.

SLOPE

THE BEST WAY TO RAMP UP FOR A BIG YEAR AT THE RESORT?

THROW DOWN FOR GEAR THAT WILL UP YOUR GAME AND MAKE YOU MORE COMFORTABLE—AND LOOK GOOD—WHEN YOU HIT THE HILL.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

1. Völkl

Kendo 88

These quick sticks can do anything on the hill, from railing long, screaming groomers to popping though powder stashes in the trees. Credit that versatility to Völkl’s 3D Construction which imparts three distinct turn radii to the ski—31, 17, and 26 meters, depending on where you focus the edge—as well as a titanal frame and tailored carbon which give an 88-underfoot ski the guts of a bigger ride. The result is not just technically impressive but also a lot of fun. $699; volkl.com

2. Dalbello Veloce 130 GW

This boot gives you the best of both worlds: It’s got the pure power to drive a ski at speed on groomers or deep in the woods, but it doesn’t hurt your foot in the process. Chalk the performance up to overlap construction, which provides compact power without a tongue piece. The comfort derives in part from a custom-adjustable liner and shell that strive to pad the worst pressure points. $799; dalbello.it

3. Nordica Wild Belle DC 84

With a snappy turn radius and just enough rocker, this day-to-day women’s ski is the perfect quiver of one for a full season on your pass. It’s stable at speed and agile in new snow. Plus, the double core and mounting position make it sync with female stance and geometry. The result is a ride that can cruise or charge with equal aplomb. $650; nordica.com

4. Nordica

Sportmachine 3 95 W

Sporting a soft flex but plenty of power, this women’s boot does not sacrifice performance for comfort. It’s the perfect choice for skiers who want to take on the gnarly parts of the mountain or just lap groomers with friends. A customizable liner

seals the deal for those who want core performance but hate how more aggressive boots hurt their feet. $450; nordica.com

5. Atomic Maverick 100 TI

Looking for an all-mountain ripper that can dominate the big lines while offering enough float for pow days?

This Austrian-built crusher relies on a layer of titanal inside to give it plenty of backbone but still allow for snappy flex. The rockered shovel up front can hammer though junk and levitate in deep fluff. Put it all together, and you have the dream ski for the days (and legendary runs) that matter most. $900; atomic.com

6. Jones Tweaker

This true twin-tip board rewards the creative rider anywhere on the hill. It’s in its element popping off tricks but it also has the chops to harness big, all-mountain lines. The wide nose and tail mean it levitates in deep snow and V-core profiling makes it agile and smooth on trickly lines. And shred easy: Jones, run by Protect Our Winters founder Jeremy Jones is committed to sustainability efforts in its manufacturing, including an Eco plastic top sheet. $530; jonessnowboards.com

7. Dynafit Blacklight 88

Uphill skiing is hot right now and the Blacklight is the weapon of choice for those who want to power up the skin track and then bomb down the piste—and repeat. This touring ski, which tips the scales at just over 2 pounds, 13 ounces in a 184-cm length and features unidirectional carbon fiber and an airy Paulownia wood core, is a dream on the ascent. Don’t fear— while it’s not a day-to-day ski for hill banging, it’s surprising stable when you pull off the skins and race to the bottom. $700; dynafit.com

8. Mountain Flow Cork Pro

Mountain Flow has already impressed us—and done real good for the planet—with its Eco Wax, which gets chemicals out of the snow. The Colorado brand builds on that ethos with these new ski poles crafted from recycled 7075 aluminum, which the brand claims reduces carbon emissions by 90% compared to using virgin aluminum. And the comfy pole grips come from upcycled wine corks. Cheers! $60–$120; mountainflow.com

9. Leki Helicon Lite

An adjustable pole that rings in at a reasonable price, the aluminum Helcion Lite telescopes between 110 and 145 cm via a stable flip-lock system, plus the extended foam grip allows you to change pole height on the fly as terrain shfits. It’s the perfect set of poles to pull double duty for days at the resort and touring away from it. $90; leki.com

10. Zeal Hangfire

You will notice the difference as soon as you don these impressive spherical goggles, which allow you to see not just a wider range all around you but also provide impressiv e visibility when you look down at the snow. The result is a more natural feel on the hill and the ability to react faster to your surroundings. $129; zealoptics.com

11. Pret Cirque X

This lid gives you all you need in a helmet: plenty of protection alongside lots of ventilation. That’s not an easy balance to strike but the light (1 pound in a size medium) Cirque X shields you from trauma via a system of overlapping polycarbonate plates and MIPS concussion mitigation, but it still vents enough to be comfortable no matter the weather. $270; prethelmets.com

12. Columbia Peak Pursuit Gloves

Waterproof, breathable, and jacked up with Columbia’s iconic Omni-Heat insulation layer, which works like a space blanket, these gloves can handle a beating and will keep your digits toasty no matter the temperature. $100; columbia.com

13. Rab Khroma Transpose Jacket and Kinetic Bibs

The lightly insulated Khroma jacket is our shell of choice for athletic skiers and snowboarders. It’s designed for mountaineering, but those highperforming properties—lightweight, breathable, insulated with just enough eco-friendly insulation to keep out the cold without cramping your style— also apply to adventurous resort days. The Kinetic Bibs likewise impart weather-shucking powers alongisde just enough stretch. $375 jacket, $365 bibs; rab.equipment

14. Picture OrganicSeen JKT and Exa Pant

As the name implies, this women’s jacket-and-pant combo is easy on the Earth. The breathable and waterproof polyester blend is made of sugarcane waste mixed with recycled PET (think wasteful water bottles), and performs as well as any toxic fabric. Best of all the forward-thinking French brand puts a premium on making sustainable clothing affordable compared to other conscious, but all too often pricey, companies. $285 jacket, $210 pant; picture-organic-clothing.com

15. LeBent Women’s 200 Crew

The usual complaint about merino wool—despite the natural fabric’s moisture wicking and temperature modulating properties—is the itch. Not so here. This base layer gives you those superpowers but feels soft and fine against the skin. $90; lebent.com

16. Farm to Feet Wilson

Never discount the advantage of good socks when it comes to the perfect ski day (or a crappy one). Warm, wicking, light, and airy, these merino babies will keep your dogs happy all day long. $36; farmtofeet.com

17. JBL Reflect Aero TWS

Keep the motivation pumping in your head (and get those work meetings taken care of on the lift) with these noise-canceling earbuds that include built-in mics. Big bonus: You can fast charge them for four hours of battery life in just 15 minutes—as long as it takes to pop in the lodge for a quick break. $150; jbl.com

THE 2022 PERFECT WINTER GUIDE

The best season for adventure and cozy relaxation is right around the corner. To that end, here’s our guide to authentic winter escapes in Colorado and Wyoming.

Ski Cooper

SKIP THE CROWDS— COME TO SKI COOPER THIS SEASON. OFFERING PICTURE-PERFECT COLORADO MOUNTAIN VIEWS AND A SKI GETAWAY FREE OF CORPORATE JUNK, THIS GEM IS YOUR DESTINATION FOR AN AUTHENTIC COLORADO WINTER EXPERIENCE.

If there is one classic Colorado ski destination you must visit this year, it’s Ski Cooper. With its renowned softest snow in the state, a variety of terrain for all abilities— including some of the best beginner trails in the country and epic powder, glades and bump runs—friendly staff and a happening aprés scene, Cooper is a fun, affordable resort for whole family.

Tickets

Cooper is bringing back its famed $30 Thursday program, which includes a $30 lift ticket and specials on food, beverages, rentals, and lessons. Available for purchase online (at least 48 hours in advance of arrival), this special will run every Thursday during January and February 2023.

Pass Program

beautiful views. If wheeled adventures— fat biking on snow, gravel and road riding, or mountain biking on dry south-facing trails—are more your plan, hit up Lyons.

You deserve a break, and the town of Lyons, Colorado, is the place to get it. This small town offers big views and a unique blend of artsy, down-home, outdoorsy fun. This winter, escape your hectic days, embrace relaxation, and linger longer in Lyons. From beautiful wintry hikes to great local eats and easy-access cycling, Lyons is primed your new favorite escape.

Hiking trails at Rabbit Mountain, Button Rock Preserve via the Sleepy Lion Trail, the Nighthawk Trail at Hall Ranch, and Picture Rock Trail all offer opportunities to stretch your legs while soaking up

The Fruit Loops tours Apple Valley Road and the South Saint Vrain, while Crane Hollow Road offers a pleasant dirt spin.

Indulge in local eats, walk about town, birdwatch, or fly-fish the iconic North and South St. Vrain Creeks. While you’re at it, hit up the eclectic selection of boutiques and charming retail stores.

Take a stroll along the historic Main Street (all local, no chains) and discover shops and restaurants unique to this place only. And then wash your day down at one of Lyons’ breezy, open-air watering holes.

The views alone will leave you wanting to hang out for hours here in Lyons.

Cooper will also continue its unmatched season pass program this year. Featuring 62 partner resorts across the country, season pass holders ski all season at Cooper and have the added benefit of skiing three days at each of its partner

resorts, from the nearby Monarch Mountain and Loveland to newly added destinations in Wyoming, Washington, as well as Midwest and East Coast resorts.

Big Adventure

If you’re looking for epic winter adventure, get in on Cooper’s Chicago Ridge Snowcat Skiing. Thanks to new half-day tours, skiers and riders have ample time to experience the thrill and adventure of cat skiing and the breathtaking views on Chicago Ridge in the Pike-San Isabel and White River National Forests.

You’ll also find new trails within Tennessee Creek Basin for a more skier-friendly experience. And Cooper launched a new family adventure this year: Leprechaun Lane. Let your kids play in the family fun zone in the woods.

Eats Cooper’s newest restaurant, the Timberline Taproom, exclusively features Colorado craft brews, the alluring aroma of smoked eats, and a fresh menu from chef Scott with homemade pickles, pulled pork sandwiches, smoked hummus, and beef and brisket chili.

Ski Cooper makes skiing accessible for everyone via reasonable ticket prices, friendly faces, and plenty of pow.

YMCA of the Rockies, Colorado

AT TWO BELOVED LOCATIONS—ESTES PARK CENTER AND SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH— THE YMCA OF THE ROCKIES OFFERS UP TOP-NOTCH PROGRAMMING FOR THE 2022–23 WINTER SEASON THAT YOU WILL HELP YOU MAKE THE MOST OF WINTER.

Estes Park Center and Snow Mountain Ranch provide the perfect basecamp for your winter adventures. From on-site snow tubing to cross-country skiing and new winter hikes to guided snowshoe trips in Rocky Mountain National Park, YMCA of the Rockies is a great basecamp for northern Colorado winter adventures.

Big Adventure

If ice skating, sledding and alpine skiing are on your winter to-do list, the Y’s Snow Mountain Ranch location will provide the perfect backdrop. This 5,100-acre low-key “resort” offers easy access to Winter Park Ski Resort and Rocky Mountain National Park. Check out its sled dog adventures if you like the look of dog poo on snow. And burn calories for years on the 120 kilometers of Nordic skiing trails.

Love wildlife? Head to Estes Park Center. While wildlife viewing opportunities are abundant across both properties,

Estes Park is an iconic Colorado locale to spot elk, deer, and birds along trails and right outside lodging windows. The resort also offers wildlife ecology classes and expert guides to help guests safely view wildlife on hikes. And new this year at the Estes Park Center, the Enger Family Nature Trail features an upper and lower loop built for all ages and accessibility levels—the perfect spot for a winter hike or snowshoe.

Lessons

The Snow Mountain Ranch Nordic Center offers private and group lessons, as well as Nordic ski equipment rentals for the whole family, including ski-equipped chariots for hauling your littlest elves.

Family Friendly

Eldora: Far Out, Close By

SPEND LESS TIME DRIVING AND MORE TIME ON SNOW WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS AT ELDORA. JUST WEST OF BOULDER AND WITH NEWLY EXPANDED PARKING, THIS FRONT RANGE GEM IS THE PERFECT DESTINATION ANY DAY OF THE WEEK.

Pass mountain closest to the Front Range, and offers unlimited access to Ikon Pass holders. And new this year, uphill access is included for all Ikon Pass holders and Eldora alpine season pass holders, so you can ride some lifts and skin a lap or two when you visit (view uphill policies at eldora.com/uphill).

Join the Community

When it comes to traveling to and from Eldora, sustainability—and sustainable transportation—remain at the forefront of the resort’s mission. Following its commitment to protecting the environment, Eldora encourages guests to carpool and use other forms of green transportation.

other.

While both YMCA locations are great, the Estes Park Center is the place to go for all-ages indoor fun to offset your outdoor fun. Featuring a 35-foot-tall climbing wall, cozy fireplaces available across the property, well-appointed history museum, roller rink, craft center, gym and game room, the possibilities are endless for indoor fun to complement your outdoor adventures!

Lodging

Estes Park Center and Snow Mountain Ranch offer visitors year-round access to iconic Colorado views and cozy accommodations. From hotel-style lodge rooms to multibedroom private cabins, affordable lodging options are available at both locations. Most lodge rooms and cabins do not have televisions, providing a truly unplugged experience.

The cabins and lodge rooms at Snow Mountain Ranch are ski-in/ski-out or in walking distance from Nordic ski, snowshoe and fat biking trails. And if you love bringing your furry family members along for the winter fun, you’re in luck, as most cabins at both properties are pet-friendly.

Celebrating its 60th anniversary this winter, Eldora has long been the locals’ choice for easy-access skiing and riding in Colorado’s Northern Front Range. Skip the I-70 rat race, head toward quaint Nederland, and hit Eldora. Whether you’re looking for some quick laps or a full day on the hill, mellow cruisers, or thrilling steeps, Eldora has something for everyone.

Location, Location, Location

Just 21 miles west of Boulder and far away from the congestion of I-70, Eldora is the perfect half-day mountain. Spend a morning or afternoon making laps, and you’ll still have plenty of time to work or play—whatever happens to be on your to-do list.

Particularly in the early season, when every resort in the state is equal in terms of terrain and conditions, Eldora is the perfect place for Front Range skiers and riders to get some mileage in their legs in preparation for the season ahead. Eldora also happens to be the Ikon

This season, Eldora is incentivizing these practices in a few ways: by charging single-occupancy vehicles (SOVs) $10 on weekends, holidays, and weekdays with 10 or more inches of snow in the forecast; by reserving all close-in parking (the westernmost part of the parking lot, or “Elk Lot”) for high-occupancy vehicles (HOVs) carrying three or more people; and by offering free round-trip RTD bus tickets and free shuttles to and from Boulder every Saturday and Sunday all winter long. Jump on the RTD at the Downtown Boulder Station (14th and Walnut) and get off 20 feet away from the Alpenglow highspeed six-person chairlift. Learn more at eldora.com/free-ride

Big Adventure

With slopes from 9,200 to 10,600 feet above sea level, Eldora offers thrilling high-country adventure just 21 miles from Boulder and 47 miles from Denver. With easy access on the RTD and nearly 700 acres of terrain to explore, Eldora should top your fun calendar this winter.

Eldora is the Ikon Pass mountain closest to the Front Range, and it offers incentives to guests who use green transportation.

Sheridan, Wyoming

SHERIDAN, WYOMING, GIVES VISITORS HISTORY WITH A VIEW. FROM THE CHARMING MAIN STREET TO THE MAGNIFICENT BACKDROP OF THE BIGHORN MOUNTAINS—THIS AUTHENTIC MOUNTAIN TOWN OFFERS MODERN HOSPITALITY WITH OLD WEST CHARM.

Explore a new corner of the West in Sheridan, Wyoming, whose rich 140-year history sets the stage for casual strolls down historic streets where world-class museums, live music, and frothy beers are readily available. Then, when you’ve had your fill of town, venture out to explore the peaks and quiet forests of the surrounding mountains.

Lodging

If you find comfort in familiarity, book a room in any one of Sheridan’s nationally renowned hotels. If you’re looking for something a bit more local, plan a night (or two) at the Sheridan Inn. First opened in June of 1893, the now-revitalized historic hotel features 22 rooms, each named after the famed Buffalo Bill and other key characters from his life.

Winter Activities/Backcountry

The local ski hill, Antelope Butte Mountain Recreation Area, features a 1,000-foot drop accessed by three lifts and covering 28 downhill trails, as well as miles of groomed trail for Nordic skiing, fat biking, and snowshoeing. The facility offers rentals and lessons, as well as a heated yurt to help you stay cozy on extra cold days.

If you’re looking to get away from the crowds and challenge yourself a bit, check out Sibley Lake Trail and Cutler Cross Country Ski Trail. A short drive from downtown, these trails offer an easily accessible wilderness experience like no other.

Deep snow, spectacular scenery and the vast expanse of public lands in the Bighorn Mountains make snowmobilers drool.

Play on 22 miles of ungroomed trails and 218 miles of groomed trails. Snowmobiling in the Bighorn Mountains can be easy or challenging—no matter what it, it serves up endless wilderness opportunities.

Want an aerial view? Sheridan Pilots 307 offers scenic discovery flights in vintage aircraft for an unforgettable view of the mountains.

Eats

This small town packs a big punch when it comes to local eats that range from triedand-true classic Western menu offerings to contemporary American fare and handcrafted cocktails. Whatever your vibe, Sheridan has it.

McGregor’s Bar & Grille at Mydland Market specializes in “elevated comfort food” with a stellar lunch and dinner menus. The restaurant offers game-day entertainment, an inviting environment, and an unexpected mascot: the Highland Cows of Scotland, a nod to Sheridan’s roots in golf, a sport born in across the pond. The market is on the

As a family-friendly destination, Sheridan offers a wide range of opportunities for all ages to experience winter recreation.

site of the old Sheridan Country Club, “a community mainstay and gathering place for so many years” (and previously a cow pasture across Mydland Road). As they say “Meet Me at McGregor’s” and get ready to enjoy “food, friends, and family” in this unbeatable comfortable atmosphere.

The must-visit Welcome Market Hall is a first-of-its-kind community space in Wyoming located in the old train station on Broadway. For best bets on eats, check out the Italian menu. Learn more by following on Instagram at @welcomemarkethall!

New This Year

Just across town, visitors can get a different experience at the Warehouse Gastropub, . based in a 1940s warehouse and newly opened in September.

Owners Christer and Gina Johansson sought to pay homage to the building’s history while introducing something new to Sheridan. Cue the Warehouse Gastropub—a must-visit if you’re looking to enjoy a “casual environment fit for grabbing a drink, socializing and equally important, to offer affordable high quality food.”

Join the Community

With fall in full swing and winter on the way, the annual WYO Film Festival, located in Sheridan, hosts films of all shapes and sizes that are innovative and inspirational, and capture the independent spirit of the greatest storytellers. But don’t fret if you miss the Sept. 30–Oct. 2 event. Past trailers and lists of films—all with a powerful story and distinct voice—are available on the festival website. The festival is committed to the “celebration of independent film in all forms and bringing it to wider audiences.”

The Historic Kendrick House hosts friendly can’t-miss events through December, including a Holiday Open House and Christmas with the Kendricks.

Finally, mark your calendars for the annual Bighorn Rush Sled Dog Challenge, which takes place at Antelope Butte, Dec. 30–31. This event promotes dogpowered and winter sports in the Bighorn Mountains, and it’s a great opportunity to check out an activity born out of necessity—but turned into a joyride.

MAYA

FAR FROM THE BIG-BOX

OF CANCÚN, THE

OF YUCATÁN GIVES

CHANCE TO

ABOUT MAYA CULTURE—

EXPLORE THE JUNGLE.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Get there before the buses. This is solid advice for any popular travel destination but it’s especially true for the Yucatán’s cenotes—a peninsula-wide patchwork of fresh water sinkholes, caves, and hidden pools in the sheet of limestone underneath the place. And, right now, we have Cenote Chichikan, a deep sinkhole with a tranquil pool of greenblue at the bottom, all to ourselves. The canopy of the surrounding jungle shades the cenote from the Caribbean sun and a manmade waterfall pours

50 feet down into it. The low splash of the falling water gently echoing in the silence. Chichikan is one of the most lovely of the peninsula’s famed pools, which are still sacred to the Maya people, who found life in the fresh water and places to bury ceremonial dead in their depths. On a more mundane level, Chichikan is nicknamed the “Instagram Cenote,” since it offers the chance for one of the most beautiful shots you’ll ever see on social media.

Confession: Despite the banality of clicking off shots for our own feeds, it’s impossible not to do it here.

We—my wife and two teenagers, Isa and Kieran—scramble down the slick, wet wood of the staircase that brings us down to the water and enoy our seemingly private visit. Like everyone else in the world right now (and in our home town, tested to its core by a shooting and wildfires), we needed something likes this, some place far

MAYA

away from home where we could rediscover ourselves and our mutual love of travel and learning—and each other. We need to rest and heal. My wife suffered a broken neck in a bike accident. She is lucky that there was no apparent permanent damage, but she broke two vertebrae and has been stuck in a neck brace for months and is worried by shooting twinges in her arms and legs, residual tremors of the trauma. This trip marks the end of an era for us as well: My daughter, Isa, will leave for college in a few weeks and our little family unit will need to adjust to new dynamics. Travel has always been a driving force for us, and we hope we engage in it ethically, respecting and learning about the cultures and places we visit, contributing to them in a way that uplifts the people we meet. In the low, humid green and tropical sun of the Yucatán we hope to find some new perspectives on ourselves and

paths forward, away from the familiar and beloved high, dry air of our Rocky Mountains.

Currently, we are simply in awe. The cenotes are unique to the Yucatán, which has no lakes or river and where layers of limestone underlay the dense jungle of the flat peninsula. In that porous rock, fresh water carves out systems of caverns and exposed sinkholes give a glmpse into the heart of it all. The Yucatán is also the site of the Chicxulub Crater, the place where the meteor that extinguished the dinosaurs and most other life on Earth smashed into the planet 66 million years ago, setting the stage for the eventual rise of mammals and our current, precarious Anthropocene. That apocalyptic event also created what’s referred to as the “Ring of Centoes,” along the deep-buried crater’s rim.

It’s not a New Age folly to say you can feel the aftereffect of that primordial event here. The Yucatán has a

PLAZA BUSTLE : VALLADOLID’S CENTRAL SQUARE FILLS WITH BUSLOADS OF TOURISTS, BUT IT MANAGES TO RETAIN ITS LOCAL IDENTITY AT THE HEART OF THIS LOVELY CITY.

palpable energy to it, an intensity and also, oddly, a sense of ease. And one local tells me that while some think of the crater as the center of extinction, it’s also the place where new life, power, and hope began to emanate back to the planet.

A subtle understanding of the relationship between life and death is key to Maya culture as well. Often misrepresented with human sacrifice and doomsday predictions at its forefront, the learning of the ancient Maya represented a precise albeit far different way of observing and categorizing the world—in astronomy, a different number system, and mathematically perfect architecture that survives to this day. The Maya brought us chocolate. One other popular misconception is that they are gone. That could not be farther from the truth: The Maya are here—everywhere. They are the people of the Yucatán today.

Here we are immersed in a place sacred to the Maya. Alone in this cenote, we swim, float, stare up to the sky framed by trees far above.

We sit on the edge with our feet in the water and small fish swarm to our legs in droves and begin to exfoliate us, tickling as they nip, harmlessly, at our skin. (And we all confess our feet feel softer later. Thanks, fish.) It’s what we needed so badly, a pause, a reset. Thanks, Yucatán.

"

the deep water below.

Including the bustling, artdrenched capital city of Merida, the State of Yucatán is the heart of the peninsula. Most tourists come down here to enjoy Cancún’s long beaches or the club-and-chill scene in Tulum in the neighboring state of Quintana Roo. Who can blame them? But many of those visitors go straight from the airport, margarita in hand, to the hotel. They don’t get the immersion of exploring the cenotes, or more importantly of the wonderful people who actually live here.

The State of Yucatán is certainly brimming with tourists. After all, it hosts cruise ships at the port of Progreso and the world-famous ruins of Chichén Itzá. (Let me stop here and tell you that no matter how touristy you think these ruins may be, you must visit. If you want to beat the crowds, take my earlier advice of going early, or go at night, when the giant pyramid and surrounding structures are lit up and the vibe is far more mellow). But the feel here, as opposed to the beach resorts, is a bit bigger and more local.

ALONE IN THIS CENOTE, WE SWIM, FLOAT, STARE UP TO THE SKY FRAMED BY TREES FAR ABOVE. WE SIT ON THE EDGE WITH OUR FEET IN THE WATER AND SMALL FISH SWARM TO OUR LEGS IN DROVES AND BEGIN TO EXFOLIATE US, TICKLING AS THEY NIP, HARMLESSLY, AT OUR SKIN.

Chichikan is not the only cenote we visit. Each one of these sunken paradises has its own unique vibe. Hacienda y Cenote Selva Maya includes a zip line park. It gives us a chance to stand high above the jungle canopy and get a sense of just how vast, green, flat, and expansive this place really is. After flying high above the jungle along with capable guides we tour the grounds and see herbs grown the traditional Mayan way, in hutches that stand above ground, both to better drain and keep out animals. Better yet, we eat a lunch that includes these homegrown goodies, chief among them chaya, a tasty spinachlike leaf that grows on trees that we zip-lined over. We don’t have Selva Maya’s cenote all to ourselves but we do beat the bus traffic to go down inside and jump off a platform into

We feel that at our accommodations in the town of Valladolid, which is renowned as one of Mexico's magic cities. With its brightly colored buildings and street markets of artisans, the town is a big draw for cruise ship tourists who come in on buses (again, buses) but it somehow never feels overrun. If all the people, buying street corn and churros in the main plaza with its old church built on top of yet another cenote feel like too much, wander away down any street and barter or talk with the people who live here. You can be a tourist yet act more like a guest.

This is what heals us, what makes us feel as if we can return to our lives with new knowledge that can help us live better, as the best travel always does. We talk to the people who live here—the Maya, who have always lived here—and we come back as if a meteorite had smashed away the negativity in our lives and set us on a path of new, verdant beginnings.

JUNGLE BOOGIE: THE ZIP LINES AT HACIENDA Y CENOTE SELVA MAYA RUN 100 FEET ABOVE THE CANOPY. (TOP). WANDER THE STREETS OF VALLODOLID AND YOU ENJOY THE PLEASURES OF A TYPICAL MEXICAN AFTERNOON.(MIDDLE). IT’S NO WONDER CENOTE CHICHIKAN IS REFERRED TO AS THE “INSTAGRAM CENOTE.” (BOTTOM)

WINTER IS THE ONE

CHECK OFF THIS GOTTA-DO-IT LIST FOR COLORADO’S BEST SEASON THIS WINTER.

by PETER KRAY

I LIKE SUMMER ALRIGHT. the long days and the green, growing things. How the cold beer tastes even better after a hot day and seeing the stars from a campground when you’re far from the city lights.

But after that it just seems like so much busy multitasking. All the peaks you have to climb and trails you have to ride, rivers to float, bluegrass and brew-tasting festivals you have to hit, packing the HulaHoop, tent, and slackline. And every other night some new Red Rocks show that promises to be “all time!”

There’s so much damn fun to be had that, by the middle of October, you can hardly remember half of what happened—or that it’s really winter that first drew you here (especially if you moved here before legalized recreational cannabis) or that skiing is what put Colorado on the map before anything.

It’s the cold season that matters the most, when everything boils down to living the legend of Sisyphus. Going up the lift or the uptrack, then turning around to glide back down the long white slope again. OK, the bar for après— and then just about how good it is, with only the wind and sound of your sliding edges in your ears, and every worry disappearing.

"

of checklist of days when you call in “too well” to go to work. It includes the best places to ride, eat, and stare into nothing at the end of the day thinking only of the turns you made.

For every Coloradoan, that checklist is a little different—from mountain to mountain, run to run, and lift to lift, right down to which side of the cornice you have to hit on that one little hike-to chute, and exactly which time of day to drop in.

For the sake of entertainment, and maybe as a kind of guide, here’s a few regular items on my annual winter “to ski” list. I’d be happy to make some turns down the runs on your list too. Preferably early in the week, when everyone else is working.

1. Vail: Yeah, people love bashing Vail, especially when it comes to ticket prices, parking, and crowded liftlines. But I still love it—as I have since I was a kid—especially the big blue views, wide-open groomers, and Highline and Prima’s bottomless bumps. While it’s hard to hit a powder day just right anywhere, the Back Bowls remain Colorado’s snowy grail of hero shots. I’ll never forget watching a snowboarder arc Forever like the Silver Surfer once from the lift. It’s also an awesome spot to stomp some April slush in the sunshine.

2. Monarch: Low-key and simple also works, and Monarch has plenty of that. My wife’s folks used to live in Salida, and every year my mother-inlaw bought us a pass. I’ve got great memories of sharing chairs with people from Oklahoma in Starter jackets, fall-line skiing High Anxiety or Dire Straits, hiking the gate access to Mirkwood 12 times in a row, and one unforgettable day looping snowcat laps with big mountain ski legend Scot Schmidt. (P.S. Big thanks to Greg Ralph for making that happen!).

YOU WANT TO IMPRESS ME? WORK NONSTOP FROM MAY THROUGH SEPTEMBER; THEN TAKE THE WINTER OFF AND JUST GO SKIING.

December, January, February, and March—when the mountains are covered in snow and shining— are the best months to be outdoors. You want to impress me? Work nonstop from May through September; then take the winter off and just go skiing.

The Checklist

Of course, even then there’s a kind

3. A-Basin: I’ve also got Aspen, Breckenridge, Copper, Crested Butte, Eldora, Mary Jane, scrappy little Ski Cooper, Snowmass, and just about any place else there’s a snow-covered hill as a must-do on this list. But A-Basin is as real as Colorado skiing gets, all the way from the gut-checking pitch at the top of Pallavicini down to the base of The Beach (the snow-world’s most famous—and friendly—parking lot). Any time the lifts are turning— and in Colorado they turn here longer than anywhere else—you’ll

find runs that’ll challenge you, crazy weather, and people who will keep you laughing.

4. Hire a Pro: This isn’t exactly Colorado specific, but I can’t think of a better way to learn how to ride new terrain, travel out of bounds, and find the absolute best stashes than booking a local instructor, coach, or guide to show you around. Especially if you’re beyond the boundary ropes, trying to learn a new trick, or just want that one hot tech tip that helps make this one of your best seasons. Bonus points: Locals also let you in on the best breakfast, dinner, and après spots, so you can avoid the Texans.

5. Treat Yourself: Winter’s short and we often don’t get as many days as we think we will. So make those days the best. Buy yourself the new boards or jacket. Better yet, buy them for the friend you love the most. Book the hotel, even if it is just for one night (and especially if dogs are welcome!). And for the love of Skadi, eat at the best locally owned dining spot. The memories you make will reward you for a lifetime.

—Elevation Outdoors editor-atlarge Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing. The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” Buy it here and read it now: amzn.to/35AfxlL.

The new Khroma Kinetic. This lightweight shell is for those who love the up as much as the down. Built with our softest hardshell Proflex™ fabric, it’s waterproof, windproof and packs down small. When you need one system to do it all, from remote touring adventures to stomping the steepest lines, this is it.