Elevation Outdoors December 2016 by Summit Publishing

HOLIDAY BEERS | THE GOOD GIVING GUIDE | A WINTER IN MONTANA DECEMBER 2016

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GO OUTSIDE & PLAY

SEE THE LIGHT:

THE SEASONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST GEAR RANDO RACING IN BIG SKY COUNTRY

GETTING AFTER IT

IN OURAY

INDIE SKI BRANDS STEP UP

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / D E C E M B E R 2 01 6

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G I B GOEIR GIFT FROM BENTGATE.

CONTENTS

December 2016

GE T T H

HIGH LIFE: A COMPETITOR ASCENDS LONE MOUNTAIN AT BIG SKY RESORT'S ROWDY SHEDHORN SKIMO RACE, PART OF THE EVER-GROWING COSMIC SERIES. SEE PG 23

DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

7 EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LETTER

23 BIG SKY SKIMO

Yes, we have to talk about it.

8 QUICK HITS

The rowdy COSMIC ski mountaineering race series makes some serious inroads up in Montana.

Chicks go big, the ultimate weatherman, Phoenix fun and more...

27 QUEBEC ICE

12 FLASHPOINT The big-brand ski industry may have just made it easier for indie players.

Climber Pete Takeda takes his ice axe and crampons up to the frigid, poutine-eating wilds of Canada.

28 THE GIFT GUIDE 14 HOT SPOT Essential beta on the Ouray Ice Park.

57 SKIS TS O O B I K S 37 S G N I D N I B 24 R A E G E H AVALANC BOARD T I L P S / I K S S L A T N E R & AVY

Can't figure out what the adventurous man or woman in your life needs? These recommendations are winners.

16 THE TRAIL Download the ViewRanger app and hit Leadville's fat-bike singletrack.

19 NUMEROLOGY The calculations of winter.

21 STRAIGHT TALK Professional split-boarder Rachel Reich on how she got that title.

35 PEAK GEAR AWARDS Twice a year, we poll our outdoorobsessed contributors to determine the gear that meant the most to us when we were beating it up out in the wild. Come meet the winners. photo above by JASON THOMPSON/ COURTESY BIG SKY RESORT

39 HEAR THIS Sturgill Simpson, Bon Iver, Bob Weir: Ring out the best music of 2016.

44 THE ROAD Montana guide Drew Pogge breathes in the changes of a season of snow.

46 ELWAYVILLE How to salvage this crap year.

WANT MORE? CATC H 3) 271 9382 RADO (30 O L O C N E GOLD

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U P ON PAST ISSU ES, YOU R FAVORITE B LOG G E RS A N D DAILY ON LIN E-ON LY CON TEN T AT ElevationOutdoors.com ON TH E COV ER: PEAK G EAR WIN N ERS R A B 'S ZERO-G JAC KET A N D PETZL'S R EAC TIK+ H EAD LA MP. PH OTO BY: A NDR EW BY D LON / C AV EM A N C OLLEC TIV E

The mercury is dropping and Old Man Winter

is here. But, don’t worry, the new Drumroll APA is no fair-weather friend. When the seasons

change and the flannel blooms you’ve got a bold, citrus-inspired beverage to help you weather any storm.

It’s the go-to that goes with.

CONTRIBUTORS

ElevationOutdoors.com

WHAT'S THE BEST CAUSE YOU DONATED TO IN 2016? DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

EDITORIAL ED ITOR -IN -CH IEF

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com MAN AG IN G ED ITOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR ED ITOR

I joined as a “virtual walker” on a friend's team in the Step Up for Downs Syndrome Walk.

CHRIS KASSAR

ELIZABETH O'CONNELL

chris@elevationoutdoors.com IN TERN

EMILY GALLEGOS

play@elevationoutdoors.com CON TRIBUTIN G ED ITORS

AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, JAYME MOYE, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN ED ITOR -AT-LARG E

The Sugarloaf Fire Department. Fundraising cookies and cash to help them get new supplies and continue to keep our neighborhood safe.

CAMERON MARTINDELL

PETER KRAY

C ON TRIBUTIN G WRITERS

JEDD FERRIS, KIM FULLER, RADHA MARCUM, DREW POGGE, DREW SIMMONS, AVERY STONICH, PETE TAKEDA, BETSY WELCH ART + PRODUCTION MEGAN JORDAN

A RT D IREC TOR

12. 16

The Family Travel Association is a great organization dedicated to supporting families seeing the world and providing memorable experiences.

megan@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR D ESIG N ER

LAUREN WORTH

lauren@elevationoutdoors.com G RA PH IC D ESIG N ER

PAIGELEE CHANCELLOR

paigelee@elevationoutdoors.com

ADVERTISING + BUSINESS BLAKE DEMASO

PRESID EN T

blake@elevationoutdoors.com

CHRIS KASSAR Veterans Expeditions is an awesome veteran-run, veteranled nonprofit using the outdoors to build community that lasts well beyond the rivers run or mountains climbed.

PU BLISH ER

ELIZABETH O’CONNELL

elizabeth@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

MARTHA EVANS

martha@elevationoutdoors.com AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

BEN YOUNG

ben@elevationoutdoors.com

B U SIN ESS MAN AG ER

MELISSA GESSLER

melissa@elevationoutdoors.com C IRC U LATION MA N AG ER

AVERY STONICH Helping the people of Nepal get back on their feet. After the devastating 2015 earthquakes, tourism in the country plummeted. I visited post-quake and wrote several stories to help spread the word that Nepal is safe, open, and ready for business.

HANNAH COOPER

DREW SIMMONS

hcooper@elevationoutdoors.com ON LIN E

Mad River, Vermont, Community Fund / Five Families Fund.

DIGITAL MEDIA D IR EC TOR CRAIG SNODGRASS craig@elevationoutdoors.com

D IG ITA L MA N AG ER

TYRA SUTAK

tyra@elevationoutdoors.com

E L E VAT I O N OU T D O O R S M AG A Z I N E

RADHA MARCUM Boulder Food Rescue, a nonprofit that redistributes fresh produce and other groceries to the hungry—by bike.

PETER KRAY SUMMIT

PRINTED ON RECYCLED NEWSPRINT WITH 100% POST-CONSUMER CONTENT

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The World Wildlife Fund, Natural Resources Defense Council and the local

PUBLISHING

animal shelter.

EDITOR’S LETTER

12.16

WORTH FIGHTING FOR: CAN THE GRAND CANYON SURVIVE THE COMING STORM? photo by KRISTEN CALDON

THE FUTURE Here we go. It seems that I have to talk about the thing I don’t want to talk about. I probably should not write about the election without some distance. But I would be remiss if I did not talk about the consequences of the election right now— simply because it will have a big effect on public lands policy and conservation. Those issues are at the heart of everything this magazine represents. One lesson I want to walk away with is to better look at how I have acted. Have I become arrogant or at least distant and stopped listening to opposing viewpoints? I hope not, but I admit, it’s hard to stay cool when you get the kind of hate mail I have received over the years simply for championing recreation and wildlife. Should we be finding a way to include more people in outdoor recreation? We have looked at the lack of diversity as a problem for years in the outdoor industry, with little forward progress. Have we also forgotten how to speak to people who don’t buy $5,000 mountain bikes or care about new GoPro mounts or the latest waterproof/breathable fabric? Is enjoying these places simply another symptom of white, educated privilege? A perk of the elite? I hope not. I certainly first came to love wild lands and wanted to fight to preserve them because of something deeper than my Strava time or backpacking trips with solar panels and wifi. I came for healing, for solace, for something outside technology and politics. The old Thoreau maxim “In wilderness is the preservation of the world” has been my driving precept. We don’t save wild places to lock them away, we save them because we need them to remain sane in an anthropomorphic world that keeps getting louder and less able to see beyond itself. With so much rage out there, we all need the free and open preservation that wilderness can give us. There have been so many good conversations since November 8, so many honest conversations, and sadly also so many toxic conversations. The only way I could get a hold on what happened—that many voters chose to turn their backs on issues from keeping public lands public to respecting women and diversity that mean so much to the regular readers of this magazine—was something my neighbor who works on women’s issues on Native American reservations told me. November 8 was no different than November 7, she said, except that now everything is out in the open. Worry. There is a powerful movement to sell off public lands, to pollute the basic rights of clean water and air, to destroy irreplaceable wild places, to wipe out the complex and beautiful natural systems and life of this planet for quick profits and long-term losses. These impulses have been lurking under the surface. They just became empowered. Our response is key. We have to stand up for what we believe is right but we also need to do it in a way that is powerful without being exclusive and arrogant, and especially in a way that is non-violent. That’s a difficult task. Some would say it’s impossible. But I believe it is attainable. The cost of losing is too high. So we need to have more conversations, and we must speak up with grace and certainty and compassion. I know I will try. D E C E M B E R 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

QUICK HITS

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TECHNOLOGY ETMOTIC MK5 ISOLATOR EARPHONES These low-profile ear buds stay in place while you are on the go, keep surrounding noises out and, best of all, sound incredible. Most impressive is just how big and rich the bass sounds in such a small speaker. $60; etymotic.com

GEAR WE LOVE

THE LADIES' WHITE ROOM WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO EMPOWER WOMEN IN THE OUTDOORS? LEAVE THE MEN AT HOME AND LIFT EACH OTHER UP.

NATIVE EYEWEAR KANNAH These trusty shades have proven to be durable, providing plenty of protection on adventures everywhere from Finland to the summit of Washington's Mt. Baker. The advanced polarized lens technology keeps everything crisp and clear and the rugged frames take a beating. $130; nativeyewear.com

BOOKS THE ARTIC GUIDE This tome is the Bible of arctic flora and fauna. Author Sharon Chester presents 500+ pages covering over 800 species of plants, fish, butterflies, birds and mammals that make their home in the tough environment of the arctic. It’s heavy though, so consider buying the eBook to lighten the load. $28; press.princeton.edu

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I’m a chick and I can say this: Taking pointers from a significant other is delicate business, particularly when it comes to climbing and skiing. The threads of patience can be as fragile as the wisps of a spider’s web: They stretch to some degree but frequently break, leaving a sticky mess. And all too often, women fail to take the lead. That entire dynamic changes when women learn from women in a supportive environment. This was Kim Reynolds’ vision when she founded the all-female company Chicks with Picks in 1999 in Ouray, Colorado, with the goal of helping women develop ice-climbing skills and gain confidence to become more independent climbers—and people. Fifteen years and hundreds (if not thousands) of empowered women later, Reynolds sold the company to five of her guides, who now also want to take the cold feet out of learning to backcountry ski. Building on the success of its climbing clinics, the company has expanded its reach and added Chicks with Sticks skiing clinics and renamed itself Chicks Climbing and Skiing. If you want to learn to slay it in the backcountry, this is your team. The owners’ resumes read like the Ivy League: outdoor education degrees, mountain guide certifications, mountaineering awards, professional sports competitions—the list goes on and on. All tallied up their collective guiding experience is damn near 100 years. “We want to be able to help every single person [female] along the way, whether you’ve never put skins on, to the person who’s ready to start dropping into couloirs,” says Dawn Glanc, one of the company’s owners and a world-class mixed climber. “We like to think that we can

LAYING IT DOWN: CHICKS CLIMBING AND SKIING OWNER ANGELA HAWSE SHOWS HOW TO SET A SKIN TRACK DURING A CHICKS WITH STICKS BACKCOUNTRY SKIING CLINIC HIGH UP IN THE SAN JUAN MOUNTAINS OUTSIDE OF OURAY. photo by AVERY STONICH

help everybody,” says Glanc, who has noticed that women seem to push themselves more in an allfemale setting. “It’s a totally different dynamic,” says Angela Hawse, another owner and an AMGA- and IFMGA-certified guide. “It’s being in a group setting and learning from others.” This season the company is offering three skiing clinics: heli-skiing in Telluride, an off-piste adventure in Japan, and a backcountry skiing clinic outside of Ouray. The backcountry program, “The Alchemist,” runs February 1-5, 2017, near Red Mountain Pass and includes three days of instruction in winter travel skills, snow safety and skiing tips, plus lodging and meals at Mountain Belle, a backcountry hut. “Our focus is not just to take you climbing. Or take you skiing. Our focus is to make you a more competent and confident individual,” says Glanc. If experience is any indication, they’re on the right track. One participant in a “soft launch” of the program last season said, “I don’t know how I would have gotten through that. It’s different having a group of women there.” This altruistic thread is woven into the company’s ethos, which also includes a commitment to give back to the community. Through local fundraisers, the company has raised $285,000 to donate to the Tri-County Women’s Resource Center and the Ouray Ice Park. chickswithpicks.net —Avery Stonich

PASS IT ON GET UP AND ENJOY THE MULTI-SPORT GOODS AT TENNESSEE PASS. For anyone looking to get “out there” this winter season, backcountry newbies or experienced veterans can plan an overnight on Tennessee Pass, located near Leadville at the base of Ski Cooper. The easy-to-access area features a Nordic center, cookhouse and sleep yurts available for a semi-adventurous and completely comfortable escape. With 19 miles of groomed trails, the Tennessee Pass Nordic Center overlooks the Sawatch Mountains, and offers cross-country skis, snowshoes and fat bikes for rent. After you get your cardio fix, head to the coffee bar—which also serves soups, sandwiches, beer and wine— and spread out on the deck on sundrenched afternoons or snuggle in by the wood stove on cold days. If you’re planning to stay the night, the sleep yurts are located 1.3 miles from the Nordic center, and rent for $225 a night for up to six guests (with three beds in each). Full linens and down comforters are provided, so there’s no need to bring a sleeping bag. Owners Ty and Roxanne Hall welcome anyone to come up and play here—whether or not they have any Nordic, backcountry or even wilderness experience. “It’s a really good stepping stone for people who have not done any backcountry stuff but want to see what it’s all about,” Ty says. “We get people who show up with roller suitcases who just came from the airport, and we can completely take care of them.” Those looking for full service

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS: TENESSEE PASS IS A STUDY IN CONTRAST—PLAY HARD AT THE NORDIC CENTER THEN DINE ON COLORADO CUISINE AT THE COOKHOUSE. photo by TIM GORMLEY

cozy lunch or elegant evening can head a mile from the Nordic center or a third of a mile from the yurts to the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse. A menu of Colorado cuisine includes appetizers such wild boar sausage, and entrees like elk tenderloin, rack of lamb and rainbow trout. Those who have gear and wilderness know-how will also feel right at home to do their own thing. Ty says many people come and stay who are pretty much self-supported. “They will show up with their own food, their own drinks, their own ski equipment, their own everything,” he says. “We just check them in and they are gone. They go out on full moon skis, they go out on the trails and do all these great things, and then we see them a couple days later.” It's on! The winter season for the sleep yurts, cookhouse and Nordic center runs seven days a week through mid-April. —Kim Fuller D E C E M B E R 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

QUICK HITS

12.16

PHOENIX, ARIZONA DECEMBER IS THE PERFECT TIME TO SEEK OUT SONORAN SECRETS— WITHOUT THE HEAT. While Front Range winters are mild by most standards, after a few months of cold, I crave sundresses, flip flops, and some warm outdoor play time. Just a short flight away, Phoenix, Arizona makes those wishes a reality. With winter temps hovering around 65 degrees, the city provides diversity, history and above all, the perfect surrounding desert landscape for adventure.

EAT Surprise—one of the best things about Phoenix is the food. The place's unique juxtaposition of metropolis and southwestern desert draws some of the best chefs in the country looking to create memorable (and mouthwatering) dining experiences. A palpable buzz surrounds The Henry (foxrc.com/ restaurants/the-henry)—the perfect place for a community lunch. The spacious design of the restaurant gives it and easy, down-to-earth feel. For creative cocktails and elevated pub-fare, head to Culinary Dropout (culinarydropout.com) in downtown Tempe. Built in an old warehouse, with a diverse style of seating arrangements, this gastro-pub serves electic comfort food in a laid-back yet festive atmosphere.

SLEEP Tucked off a remote road in the northeast corner of Phoenix sits the Hermosa Inn (hermosainn. com). This boutique hotel’s authentic southwestern feel, private casitas and proximity to outdoor recreation make this desert sanctuary a quaint option for those looking to add romance to their adventures. If you want to add a cultural element to your trip, consider the Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort (wildhorsepassresort.com), which provides a place to experience Sonoran adventures amidst the cultural landscape of the Gila River Indian Community. The authenticity of this resort and commitment to the Pima and Maricopa tribes’ heritage 10

HOT TOPIC: THERE MAY BE A LOT OF SURROUNDING SPRAWL, BUT IT'S EASY TO ESCAPE FOR A SPIN ON PHOENIX'S SAGUARO-LINED SINGLETRACK.

LOCAL HERO: JOEL GRATZ

photo by CAMERON L. MARTINDELL/ OFFYONDER.COM

MEET THE MAN TO KNOW WHEN YOU ARE ON THE THE HUNT FOR SNOW.

is quite unique and gives the resort a special, connected feel.

PLAY Winter is the best time to seek out adventure in the desert. Instead of battling heat stroke, the mild temperatures give you the freedom to take in unique landscapes without the sweat. Start your day early, with a Hot Air Expedition (hotairexpeditions.com) sunrise balloon ride. Gracefully glide over otherwise inaccessible miles of the Sonoran Desert while sunrise kisses the top of the Superstition Mountains to the east. Next, weave your way through saguaro and ocotillo cactus on a guided mountain bike tour with Arizona Outback Adventures (aoa-adventures.com). Learn about the desert flora and fauna and perfect your mountain biking skills, all while taking in desert views from the McDowell Mountains trail system. Cap off your day with a sunset hike atop the popular Camelback Mountain (bit.ly/1FLBoft). While you might have to share the trail with other sunset seekers, the reason the hike is so popular will become clear as the evening lights up around you. —Jordan Martindell

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Chances are, if you can’t sleep in anticipation of the next day’s big dump, neither can Joel Gratz. You’re likely going to wake up and read his forecast before deciding where to ski, so have another beer and leave the sleeplessness to the weatherman. Gratz is the founder and chief meteorologist at OpenSnow.com, a weather forecasting resource that answers winter’s most important questions: where is the deepest snow, and just how deep is it? If he wasn’t such a powderhound himself, Gratz may have found himself working for a big-name weather outfit, but he’s one of the lucky few who’s decided to marry passion to profession. Like any good meteorologist, Gratz uses radar, satellite, weather models and weather stations for data collection. None of them are necessarily specific to snow or contain information that only Gratz is privy to, but he forecasts on the micro-scale, taking one particular aspect of the weather and going over it with a fine-tooth comb. “The key difference between meteorologists is how we interpret the information,” he says, “and, how we communicate our forecasts.”

THE WEATHERMAN: OPENSNOW.COM'S JOEL GRATZ IN HIS OFFICE SPACE, SKIING DEEP POWDER AT CMH MONASHEE LODGE IN BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA. photo courtesy MEGAN GILMAN

Gratz’s interpretation draws from both the professional and the personal. He studied meteorology at Penn State University, then moved to Boulder for an MBA and a master’s in environmental studies. When he found that the post-graduate working world didn’t quite measure up to his “obsessive” interest in the weather, Gratz put his after-hours energy into analyzing data and what it meant for prospective snowfall. Too stoked to keep the news to himself, Gratz broke it all down into skier-friendly language and sent the forecasts to friends on an email distribution list. The forecasts went online at ColoradoPowderForecast.com in 2009 and became OpenSnow.com a few years later. Now, Gratz has added forecasters all over the country and even the world—the site added “daily snows” for Japan, Canada, and Europe this year. Like your primary care provider (who you hope has some actual

health-care experience to go with the passed-the-boards credentials), Gratz credits his forecasting prowess to “years of experience forecasting and going out to ski all over the state. This helps me to know which models to trust, which models not to trust and how to adjust the model forecasts.” If there’s actually a friend you want on a powder day, it’s Gratz. No other weatherman is this stoked. —Betsy Welch

HOLIDAY HOPS Want to impress the beer lover on your holiday list? Give them a selection from the originators of “craft beer.” The brews of Belgium were the original inspiration for many of America’s pioneer brewers. On that note, here are five of the best available in Colorado. Since 1595, the monks brewing Trappist Rochefort 6 have been creating a full-flavored malt forward beer perfect to ward off the winter chill. The Orval Abbey only brews one type of beer, yet it might be the best of the six certified Trappist breweries in Belgium. Their beer

is dry hopped, uses Brettanomyces yeast, and combines three different hops. It’s crisp and clean, with a slight hop kick. First brewed as a Christmas beer in 1948, Chimay Blue is known as the Grande Réserve. Its ninepercent alcohol, deep flavors, and overall taste make it a classic. The Duvel Moortgat Brewery has quietly moved into the American craft beer scene—they own three (Boulevard, Firestone Walker, and Ommegang) and are expanding. Makes sense, this beer is fantastic. The flagship Duvel is a Belgian Strong Ale packed with layers of flavors. Lastly, try St. Bernardus Tripel, with that smiling monk on the label. It is consistently rated world-class due to its sublime sweetness perfectly offsetting the background hops. —Hudson Lindenberger

KARMA IN THE SKY After much anticipation, GoPro finally released its drone—it's called it Karma. The machine has some great features going for it, including a dedicated controller with a built

in screen so you don’t need to loop your smartphone into the system. There is, however, the option to pair a phone or tablet to allow a second person control the camera separately from the pilot. Karma is easy to take anywhere, too, since it folds up and comes with a dedicated backpack. The camera mounts on the front to avoid getting rotors or landing gear in the shot, and the three-axis gimbal is removeable and can be used

as a hand-held stabilizer for nondrone shots (a nice bit of efficiency brilliance). Karma is compatible with Hero 4 cameras or the new Hero 5, including the new Session. The only bummer is GoPro did not build in any sort of “follow me” technology for the Karma to be the ultimate selfie stick like many other drones on the market. $800; gopro.com —Cameron Martindell

D E C E M B E R 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

FLASHPOINT

12.16

THE COST OF INDEPENDENCE WILL THE QUOTE HEARD ’ROUND THE SKI WORLD HERALD THE END OF THE INDUSTRY? OR WILL IT OPEN UP THE CORPORATE-CONTROLLED MARKET TO SMALLER BRANDS WILLING TO TAKE BIGGER RISKS? by DREW SIMMONS

n a somewhat busy street of an increasingly busy Golden downtown, the independent ski makers at Icelantic did something that might have seemed totally crazy just a few years ago. They opened a store. In a retail marketplace as packed as Colorado’s esteemed ski country, hanging up a lone store shingle can certainly seem like trying to drain an ocean with a spoon. There are so many other shops in so many other places around the Rocky Mountains that do retail so well, it’s easy to wonder if it can really be worth the effort to compete in the brick-andmortar scene. But times have changed for ski companies, and the pathway to longterm survival is about way more than just simply making great skis. It’s about embracing every opportunity you’ve got to build a fan base, because when you build a reputation, you build a brand. And when you build a brand, you increase the value of your entire company. “Our intention here is to welcome skiers into our space to experience the brand in its purest form,” said Icelantic CEO Annelise Loevile in a recent interview with Freeskier about the brand’s new store. “One of our biggest opportunities … is to continue building our brand awareness with (non-skiers) by offering products that appeal to them.”

THE QUOTE

The ski industry is a competitive 12

away from them,” said Newell CEO place full of smart people, and the Michael Polk in September, speaking community of companies that make at a conference about his new ski it up includes what can seem like brands as well as a few other arms of zillions of tiny soul brands, dozens of his new family. “Some of them are rising independent stars, and even a the kinds of businesses that would few Titanic-size behemoths. be difficult to sell and therefore, we But what if that field changed? should just shut down because they What if a big chunk—say, a third of create no value for you and they are a the brands out there—just put their distraction for us.” skis down and walked away? What Company heads and armchair if a rapturous moment whisked away CEOs everywhere inhaled the a huge chunk of the ski industry news and held it for a long time. with no explanation whatsoever? They wondered about what it might Would tiny garage-based makers fill mean for the likes of K2, Marker, the gaps? Would the biggest brands Völkl, Dalbello, Morrow, 5150, just get bigger? Or would it just kind Liquid, Line, Ride, of suck? Olin, Madshus Over the last “Reality is, the and more—to six months, the ski ski industry is just disappear. It world wrapped its certainly wasn’t head around that not growing, it's exact question. shrinking so the only illegal or immoral, but was it a good This curious story way to accomplish business move? Was began about six annual growth is by it a rash decision? months ago when two big-time holding spending less while Was it a total dick move? companies—Newell selling the same.” Eventually, some Rubbermaid and poor PR guy got Jarden Corp.— saddled with cleanup duty, clarifying decided to get married and bring that the new Newell wasn’t actually their mile-long list of brands together going to pull the plug, but would under a single $15-billion roof. But instead seek out a buyer at a “full and at some point in this misty eyed fair value” who “shares our interest honeymoon, they decided that the in unlocking their full potential.” skiers in the family had to go. But The Quote was already out It came in a proclamation that there, as were the reactions. would make even the weirdest family “I will plead the Fifth on this,” dinner seem even more awkward. It said a director of sales at a ski came in The Quote Heard ’Round the industry company that I know you Ski World. know. “I don’t think what I really “Ideally I would like to sell want to say would be PC for print in these assets versus simply walking

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / D E C E M B E R 2 01 6

SKIERS TAKE OVER:THE NEW ICELANTIC STORE IN GOLDEN BUCKS THE COMMON WISDOM THAT ONLY BIG PLAYERS CAN MAKE A SPLASH IN THE CROWDED SKI MARKET. photo courtesy ICELANTIC

the position that I am in … though I can certainly narrate over a beer or two.” “I have some opinions, but I’d rather hold them close to my chest,” said a marketing director at another ski industry company that you definitely know.

BATTLE CALL

While eyebrow arching and negativity were easy to find, some independent brands saw The Quote as less of a challenge and more of, well, an opportunity. “What really tweaked people about The Quote was the sentiment that if skiing isn’t a ‘growth industry,’ then all of our brands should just be liquidated. We know that our day-to-day work in the ski industry isn’t here to save lives, but we also know that skiing gives us all a little something extra to enhance our lives. It’s something that a growthoriented private equity guy will never understand, but skiers always will,” said Dan Abrams, founder of Flylow. For Abrams and the Flylow crew, the arrival of The Quote kicked off a flurry of phone calls and emails, and led eventually to a lengthy blog post: one that naturally reinforced their independent roots, their noncorporate governing structure, and the fact that they’re actually skiers. The unexpected part of the post for Flylow, however, was ending up in the curious position of decrying the possible demise of a massive, publicly traded competitor. “K2 … is part of the fabric

of American skiing. K2 is Phil and Steve Mahre, Scot Schmidt, Glen Plake, Seth Morrison, Shane McConkey, Coombs. K2 made the first fiberglass ski. Their first skis were red, white, and blue for God’s sake. If K2 were to shut down shop, that would be a sad day for skiers. So here’s an idea: Let’s all rally around and host a giant gear swap and raise enough pennies to buy K2 back,” read the Flylow blog post. Flylow’s stance wasn’t alone in the indy ski world, as other innovators and disruptors also stood tall for the big brands on the chopping block. “Big brands are definitely critical to any industry. Big brands can efficiently communicate a new message—whether product or direction of your sport—worldwide with the most credibility and trust. Big brands reach the mainstream consumers that otherwise may not be aware of the smaller micro brew style brands that don’t have the bandwidth to reach as many people,” said Jason Levinthal, the iconic founder of Line and current operator of JSkis. Levinthal harkened back to Line’s early days in the 1990s, when the brand was trying to get somebody— anybody—to pay attention to the idea of twin-tip skis. He said it was like pushing meat uphill until a couple big brands got on board and launched their own twin tips. Ironically, the arrival of the big brands “exponentially” increased Levinthal’s sales at Line. Yet while Levinthal praised the invisible hand that helped his nascent brand surge forward (and eventually be acquired by K2), he was less flattering about the reality of publicly traded brands owning ski companies. “Reality is, the ski industry is not growing, it's shrinking so the only way to accomplish annual growth is by spending less while selling the same. In a flat business, this can only be accomplished by making cheaper product, reducing the number of employees, reducing athlete and media support, less marketing, ultimately investing less and less of the money made back into the brand and the sport. This leads to an automatic death spiral driving sales down, thus requiring more cutting and so on. Eventually the public company comes to the conclusion that they are done squeezing blood from a rock and it's time to sell it and look for the next brand to purchase

to do the same,” said Levinthal, in a guest post on Newschoolers.com. Some felt that the uproar was too little too late. "If people are upset about (K2 and others being sold), they should have been more upset when Jarden acquired them in the first place,” said Stephan Drake, Founder of DPS Skis.

BRAND LOYALTY

The skier’s brain is a funny thing. People can’t remember the exact details of the last powder run they took, other than the fact it was awesome, and they frequently end up on the same tree run off the same side of the same summit lift. We are not strong in the short-term memory department it turns out. But when it comes to our gear, we are wickedly loyal. People have a deep connection to their gear because those boards in the back of the truck are the only ski partners in the world that we actually, truly need. And when that gear is made by folks like you, who share some common passions and set of wintry values or two, that loyalty drills down even deeper. “I think ‘independent’ means that you’re owned by people who work at the same place as the rest of the workers, not owned by some distant corporate entity or stock holders,” said Chris Valiante of 22 Designs. “It’s been great to see the U.S.-made ski revival over the past decade. Hopefully the Newell debacle will end up being a big step toward more domestic ski manufacturing.” In the many reactions to The Quote, there were also a number of folks who offered up fantasies about buying one or two of the brands, maybe on the cheap, by convincing the CEO over a boardroom table (or a 12-minute gondola ride) of the benefit of handing over the keys. It would be a deal that every true skier could relate to. It would put a few iconic brands into the hands of the 100day club. And it would come with a Quote of its very own. Like this one, from Valiante. “Hey Mike … if you can’t find a buyer, we’ll take it off your hands for $500 and a case of beer. What do you drink?” Drew Simmons is the president and founder of Pale Morning Media, an independent traditional and digital public relations agency specializing in the outdoor world. He grew up skiing at Eldora and Mary Jane, started his family as skiers in Jackson Hole and now skis mainly in the trees of the Green Mountains. D E C E M B E R 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

HOT SPOT

12 . 16

DEEP FREEZE WELCOME TO YOUR GUIDE TO EVERYTHING ICE IN THE SAN JUANS’ CLIMBING-CRAZY OURAY. by CHRIS KASSAR

othing says winter wonderland like Ouray, a mining town turned recreation mecca, best known for its sweet combination of ice climbing and hot springs. Here’s an insider’s guide to making the most of your visit this winter. The ice park and January’s Ouray Ice Fest, are, of course, the main attraction here, but they aren’t the only shows in town. You’ll also find plenty of spots to test the skills you honed at the park up in the backcountry, or maybe just relax in hot water at the end of the day.

THE PARK

Nestled in the Uncompahgre Gorge on the edge of town, the easy-toaccess Ouray Ice Park boasts a couple hundred routes of varying difficulty that attract both beginners and pros. With so many high quality climbs (thanks to farmed ice), we can only touch on a few of our favorites. For detailed info, pick up the Ouray Ice Park Guide by Vince Anderson and Cindy Williams. Note: Difficulty ratings reflect mid-winter conditions in a typical year; ice varies greatly across the seasons and the years.

IF YOU’RE NEW

It's time to top rope at Schoolroom. Conveniently located near the Upper Bridge, this area sports 17 climbs ranging in difficulty from WI2-WI5/ M4-M6 is popular for a good reason. This is a series of fun, easy and moderate routes equipped with bolted anchors. Arrive early and be ready to share the area and enjoy a jovial, upbeat atmosphere teeming with climbers. Start with Kindergarten (WI2), a frequently climbed 30-meter route that’s the easiest one on this wall. If you’re feeling good, progress right to test your skills on Report Card (WI3) and Reading (WI4) and 14

Schoolroom Pillar (WI5), a short, steep narrow column that typically gets hacked off later in the season.

THE PILGRIMAGE: THE TOWN OF OURAY HAS BUILT ITS REPUATION AROUND ITS ICE PARK. IT'S TIME TO GET ON THE SHARP END. photo by CHRIS KASSAR

IF YOU’RE SEASONED

gully often used as a teaching area, and Tic Tac (M6), a classic pumpy overhanging mixed climb. Remember, climbing in this amazing spot is free! Keep it this way by becoming a member or donating to Ouray Ice Park (ourayicepark.com), the nonprofit that maintains the area.

Lead at the Upper Bridge. With leadonly routes like Grandma’s Glass Pony Shop (WI6), characterized by steep chandeliers and pillars, and extremely challenging overhanging mixed routes on water-polished rock like Bipolar (M9), this area comprises many of the most spectacular, classic and difficult climbs in the park.

IF YOU’RE SOMEWHERE IN BETWEEN

Relatively less visited New Funtier, located between South Park and Schoolroom, offers a great variety of beginner and intermediate climbs including our favorites Miller Genuine Draft (WI4), which scales a 30-meter ice slab and The Cook (WI2), an easy stepped-out climb of a 25-meter prow. Scottish Gullies, situated downstream from Lower Bridge also has a ton of excellent options including By Gully (WI2), a 30-meter route up a prominent

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BEYOND

Though the Park’s accessibility and ease of anchor set-up can’t be beat, if you’re skilled and looking for more solitude or even something different, the cliffs off of Camp Bird Road offer options including The Ribbon (WI4), a classic four-pitch, 200-meter ice route requiring a rappel. The route doesn’t form every year and avalanche danger can be high, so be sure to check conditions before heading out. No one knows the area or the ice like San Juan Mountain Guides so to fine tune your form and/or find the best climbs in the area with them. mtnguide.net

SOAK and STAY On the edge of town, familyfriendly Ouray Hot Springs Pool (ourayhotsprings.com) consists of several pools of varying temperatures and lap lanes. Nine miles from Ouray, clothing-optional Orvis Hot Springs (orvishotsprings.com) serves up big views of Mt. Sneffels as well as lodging, camping and private tub options. The Historic Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa & Lodgings (wiesbadenhotsprings.com) offers underground vaporcave, outdoor swimming pool, private soaking pool. Our favorite place to stay is Box Canyon Lodge (boxcanyonouray.com), within walking distance from the ice park. EAT UP There’s delicious Mexican food and killer margaritas at Buen Tiempo (buentiemporestaurant.com). You’ll get into a stunning array of handmade truffles and delicious, whimsical creations including chocolates shaped into climbers at Mouse’s Chocolates & Coffee (mouseschocolates.com). As the name implies, the small, simple Ourayle House (aka Mr. Grumpy Pants) brewery is run by a character who pumps out delicious, hand-crafted beers onsite. Conveniently, Maggie’s Kitchen, located next door serves delectable burgers and sandwiches sure to keep you drinking for longer. —C.K.

No matter where life takes you, LifeStraw Steel is essential gear for the journey. The LifeStraw Steel with 2-stage filtration removes 99.9999% of bacteria and 99.9% of protozoa for up to 264 gallons of safe drinking water, and has a replaceable carbon filter to remove chlorine, bad taste and odor. Simply sip from any freshwater source along the way. The goodness doesn’t stop there. Each purchase provides a student in Africa access to safe drinking water for an entire year. Buy LifeStraw. Do good. Sip Safe. Looking for the perfect gift? There’s a LifeStraw solution for anyone and any adventure. lifestraw.com

SIPSAFE LETS THE GOOD STUFF THROUGH

319

•Add two days of lift tickets for your child 7-17 for only $65! •As always, kids 17 and under stay free •Additional nights only $179/night

FOR TWO

Includes all taxes and fees. Must be present to purchase. Subject to availability. Blackout dates: 12/17 – 12/19/2016, 12/27/2016 – 1/1/2017, 2/18/2017 , 3/10 – 3/16/2017. Non-transferable, non-refundable, and expires on 4/9/17. Changes/cancellation to reservation allowed only once, and must be made 14 days prior to arrival. Changes/cancellation within 14 days of arrival not allowed. One Getaway per person, additional restrictions and fees may apply.

AVAILABLE AT SELECT RETAIL LOCATIONS. FOR A COMPLETE LIST, VISIT:

skicb.com/ShopGetaway NATHAN BILOW

GETAWAY

•One night of lodging at the Grand Lodge Crested Butte & two days of lift tickets for two people

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THE TRAIL

12.16

GET THE FREE APP AND FOLLOW THIS ROUTE ON IPHONE, IPAD AND ANDROID DEVICES. VIEWRANGER.COM

GET TRIP INFO SEE MORE ROUTE DETAILS, GPS DATA & PRINT MAPS. GOO.GL/6DKDSU

FATBIKE LEADVILLE WANT TO GO BIG (TIRES) IN THE HIGHEST CITY IN AMERICA? DOWNLOAD THE FREE VIEWRANGER APP AND THESE COORDINATES AND BIKE THE SNOW THIS WINTER ON THE TIMBERLINE TRAIL SYSTEM.

woods on the Boulders Trail, a moderate 1.1-mile climb flanked by tall pines.

by CHRIS KASSAR

At a junction with Slip and Slide, turn left (northeast) to continue climbing gently upward. The two-mile trail reaches its apex and then begins a fun, flowy, mile-long descent through tight trees.

oes the idea of a whole season sans spinning the cranks and wearing padded shorts make you dreary? If so, head to Leadville and ride your heart out all winter at 10,000 feet on the extremely fun Timberline Trail system. It's easy to access from town and ideal for all ability levels, Groomers usually smooth out these pine-lined singletrack routes made specifically for fatbikes on Sun, Tues, and Thurs afternoons/evenings (though we’ve found this may or may not happen). Mid-morning rides are best, since the trails have softened a bit but are still firm enough for traction. Though we outline a six-mile loop starting and ending at CMC, you can easily extend your day by adding a multitude of side loops and/or by combining this ride with other groomed trails in the area including the Historic East Side Mining District and the Mineral Belt Trail. Plus, the entire system rides well in either direction, so you can truly choose your own adventure.

Cross the Mineral Belt Trail and continue south through a trail junction (#6) along the Boulders Trail.

Reach the bottom of a thrilling hill and a series of fun curves. Turn hard left (southwest) onto a portion of the Boulders trail you have already ridden. 4.

At the junction with Giddy Up, turn right to head southwest and downhill into more shady lodgepoles. 5.

After enjoying this exciting cruise downward, turn left (south) onto And Again, which floats through the trees over rolling terrain, climbing gently in spots and flying over whoop-de-doos in other spots. 6.

Details: For more information, visit Cloud City Wheelers (cloudcitywheelers.com) and Cycles of Life (colbikes.com).

Turning north and then east, this small loop intersects with Where the Heck Am I?, another short, twisty loop that flies south and then turns hard north to tackle fun, flowy terrain.

Get There: To reach the trailhead from the Front Range, take exit 195 from I-70 W. Take CO-91 S to US-24 E to Leadville. Pass through town and turn left onto Co Rd 41/College Rd. After skirting campus, turn left and park along the road leading to CMC.

Upon returning to the junction, continue straight (north) through it. Cross the Mineral Belt Trail and follow the sweet singletrack as it winds wistfully through the forest.

Ride back a few yards to find a small gate on the right (east) side of the road. Pick up the singletrack here and begin climbing through the 16

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Pick up Perma Grin, a trail sure true to its name that turns hard left (northwest). It’s sweet downhill slope allows you to haul through the snow at astounding speeds. 9.

Slow down long enough to notice a spur trail curving to the right. Pick this up to skirt campus and return to your car. 10.

TRAIL GEAR DIAMONDBACK EL OSO

Exhilarating trails like these deserve the right bike. With a smoothshifting 2x10 drivetrain, lightweight aluminum frame, high-volume/low-pressure tires and a 100mm travel fork, this baby will power over whatever nature throws your way. $2,300; diamondback.com OVEJA NEGRA SUPER WEDGIE

Conditions change quickly in the mountains, but you’ll always be ready thanks to this Colorado-made frame bag that turns your bike’s triangle into a storage compartment. Stow bulky items like a jacket or beefy gloves in the main compartment and smaller essentials like tools, maps, and phone in the full-length flat pocket. Plus, every bag made by Oveja Negra is designed, tested and manufactured by a small team of cyclists and talented sewers right here in Salida, Colorado. $90-100;ovejanegrathreadworks.com —C.K.

Estes Park, base camp for Rocky Mountain National Park, is home to festive events all winter long. Here are some highlights:

Tinsel Tavern Tour – December 10th Winter Festival & Winter Trails Day – January 14th & 15th Frost Giant 5K & 10K – January 29th Rails in the Rockies – February 18th & 19th Whiskey Warm-Up – March 11th National Park Week – April 15th - 23rd Stanley Film Fest – April 27th -30th Base camp for Rocky Mountain National Park | VisitEstesPark.com/events

POWDER! Looking for the perfect spot to snowmobile, ski, snowshoe or enjoy other winter pastimes? Like fun community festivities like Parade of Lights, Winterfest, and more? Rio Grande Country in Southwestern Colorado has you covered . . . in POWDER and fun! Wolf Creek Ski Area averages over 460 inches of snow a year, more than any other ski area in Colorado. South Fork: closest town to the ski area. Del Norte: great brew pub and places to stay. Monte Vista: centrallylocated within the San Luis Valley. Visit www.riograndecountry.com to learn about all the great festivals and events this winter.

Book your next great adventure today!

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / D E C E M B E R 2 01 6

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NUMEROLOGY

12.16

WINTER WONDERINGS THE COLD, DARK SEASON BY THE NUMBERS. by CAMERON MARTINDELL

Degrees above average temperature for the U.S. in the winter of 2015-2016, making it the warmest recorded in the 121 years that records have been kept.

Number of avalanche training schools in Colorado listed on the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE) website. Going into the backcountry? Get educated. Stay safe. avtraining.org

Number of resorts on the $99 Colorado Cross Country Ski Association's (CCCSA) 2016-2017 Punch Pass. coloradocrosscountry.com

52,792,000

Estimated number of U.S. snow sports visits (mostly ski and snowboard) in the United States for the 2015-2016 season. That’s down from 53,578,000 the season before.

24.1 30

Minutes of daylight lost between December 1 (nine hours 31 minutes) and the winter solstice on December 21 (nine hours 19 minutes). By December 31, daylight returns to nine hours 23 minutes.

Percentage of Coloradans who regularly participate in trail-related activities.

Degrees from the sun Mercury will be on January 19, its Greatest Western Elongation. This means the often hard-to-spot closest planet to the sun will be easy to see in the east above the horizon just before sunrise.

Number of ski areas in Colorado. That ties the state for third in the U.S. with ... Wisconsin. The leading two are New York with 48 and Michigan with 42. That out of the 463 ski areas total that were open for the 2015-16 season. Alabama, Maryland, Rhode Island and Tennessee only have one ski area each and 13 states have none.

Hours of work it took for a team from Vermont to craft the winner at Breckenridge’s International Snow Sculpting Championships using only hand tools in 2016. It was a sculpture of 14-year-old science whiz Rhonda riding in a Robo Octopus.

Percentage of skiers and snowboarders who wore helmets in the 2015-2016 season.

Percentage of snowboarders under 35 years of age. Fifty-one-percent of them are between the ages of 18 and 34.

1.6 BILLION

Number of children Santa will deliver gifts to this winter. That means he’ll visit 5,556 homes each second and consume 150 billion calories in milk and cookies along the way.

D E C E M B E R 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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STRAIGHT TALK

12.16

RACHEL REICH THE JACKSON-BASED PROFESSIONAL BACKCOUNTRY SNOWBOARDER TALKS ABOUT THE JOYS OF RIDING, MOUNTAINEERING AND WOMEN IN THE SPORT. by CHRIS VAN LEUVEN

inning a sweepstakes may not sound like a likely start to a life in the backcountry, but that’s exactly what happened to Rachel Reich four years ago when she gave up the security of a desk job for frequent trips to the mountains. Before she won the Alaskan Freeride Program (sponsored by Alaska Brewing), she was working full time behind a desk at Vail Resorts doing marketing. That was in 2012, and soon after the trip she traded in her plot in the cube farm for an ice axe and backcountry board. After spending a week in Alaska at Thompson Pass heliskiing and splitboarding, she knew it was time for a big life change—weekend trips to the backcountry were no longer going to cut it. Shortly after the trip she quit her job, moved to her new home in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and started a business that would allow her the time and flexibility she needed to ride big mountains. WHEN DID YOU START SNOWBOARDING?

When I was a teenager living Charlotte, North Carolina, I saw a picture of big mountain snowboarder Victoria Jealouse riding a big Alaska spine in the magazine Teen. I tore it out, stuck it to my wall and set my sights on someday following in Jealouse’s footsteps. During my freshman year at Appalachian State in Boone, North Carolina, I started riding my resort board on manmade snow at the local mountain. There wasn’t a lot of vertical relief, so we rode the park mostly. One day, I hiked up a steep snow slope in the backcountry but we hit a lot of rocks on the way down. I don’t think I rode powder until I moved out West. WHAT WERE YOUR EARLY EXPERIENCES WITH MOUNTAINEERING?

I did a month-long NOLS course in

2008. This trip provided my first exposure to alpine climbing when we attempted Mt. Baker and Mt. Shukshan, both in Washington. Being outside for that amount of time gave me a completely different set of challenges. My mind turned off the trivial and instead focused on the essentials: warmth, food and sleep. That experience made me appreciate the simplicity of life, especially after our group witnessed a huge D4 avalanche. AND AFTER COLLEGE?

I moved to Summit County, Colorado to pursue a marketing career in the ski industry. Maybe things would have stayed that way—a daily commute to a secure desk job, receiving a salary and benefits—but that all changed when my name was randomly selected for the free trip to Thompson Pass. Before traveling up north, I spent about three years resort riding and splitboarding at Breckenridge, mainly on weekends. But that trip opened my eyes to the possibilities of splitty mountaineering and what else is out there. SO THEN YOU WERE HOOKED ON SNOWBOARD MOUNTAINEERING?

I flew back to Alaska three times after my first visit, once to Valdez (near Thompson Pass) and twice to Haines. After spending time with the guides in Alaska, I learned the

importance of understanding snow science. It’s a crucial piece of what goes into riding big lines. To stay alive, it’s important to recognize how the snowpack is reacting, and then managing and assessing line selection based on hazards.

SPLIT PERSONALITY: REICH HAS BUILT A CAREER THAT'S ABOUT MORE THAN JUST THE DOWN. SHE'S FOCUSED ON HER PURE MOUNTAINEERING SKILLS TO ACCESS BIG LINES AND GIVES BACK TO THE COMMUNITY VIA WOMEN'S AND AVALANCHE SAFETY EVENTS.

WHEN DID YOU LAND YOUR FIRST SPONSOR?

opportunities for avalanche education and awareness clinics for women and the general public. Last year, I was involved in putting on a women’s splitboarding clinic in Salt Lake City with Pallas Snowboards.

I approached Karakoram BC after Liz Daley died in an avalanche in 2014. Liz, who rode for them and was an aspiring AMGA mountain guide, was one of my influences and her death deeply impacted me. I inquired with the company about ways that I could give back to the splitboarding community. They offered to bring me on as an ambassador and I’ve been a part of the team ever since. I generally have three sponsors: Mammut, Mountain Athlete and Karakoram. HOW DO YOU GIVE BACK?

A few ways: I helped Alaska Heliskiing pull off their first women’s big mountain camp. At the time I was also doing work for SheJumps, a nonprofit dedicated to getting women into the outdoors. I flew up to Haines, Alaska to help with marketing for the event, ride and collect content. We also held a raffle to raise funds for SheJumps and Alaska Heliskiing. I’ve also worked closely with The Avalanche Project to create

photos by PIP HUNT (MAIN); NAYLA TAWA (INSET)

DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR ASPIRING FEMALE RIDERS?

Do everything you can to learn the hard skills for yourself so you can help your partner in case of a slide. This includes avalanche awareness, understanding changes in the weather, backcountry medicine, rope work and technical travel. And be sure to choose your partners wisely. I pick riders who have a combination of technical skills and good communication—and people I know I’ll have fun with, regardless of the objective. WHAT’S NEXT?

I’m co-leading an expedition to Denali this coming spring. We hope to summit the peak and ride as much as we can. To learn more about Rachel Riech, visit her website, racheden.com, and follow her on Instagram @theracheden.

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UPHILL

12 . 16

GO BIG PLENTY OF UPHILL SKIERS ARE RACING AT COURSES THESE DAYS. BUT TRUE CORE SKI MOUNTAINEERING ATHLETES ARE HEADING NORTH TO BIG SKY COUNTRY FOR MONTANA’S ROWDY SHEDHORN SKIMO RACE.

by AARON H. BIBLE

he Shedhorn SkiMo race at Big Sky Resort, Big Sky, Montana, might be an infant amongst older competitions at other prestigious North American ski resorts, but who cares? It has one of the highest pucker factors of any race like it in the U.S. and that's what may bring more top athletes to this threeyear-old race up in the wilds of the Treasure State. Montana likes its rough-andtumble reputation, so it's no surprise that this new entrant in the SkiMo community is ideally suited to the best of what the sport can offer. It's a true test of endurance, skiing ability and technical mountaineering skills—the comp has the vibe of classic small European SkiMo events. Add it up and competitors say there’s a good chance Shedhorn is going to grow quickly beyond the 36 entrants and 20 finishers from last season’s event. This European flavor, says Cosmic Series race director Joe Risi, who's responsible for putting on the race

with the support of Big Sky's patrol (the largest paid ski patrol of any resort in the U.S.), draws the top competitors from across the U.S. to what is basically a locals' event. It also represents a new frontier for Risi. The COSMIC Series—or Colorado Ski Mountaineering Cup— is transforming itself to become something broader, so that Risi and his small but growing band of supporters and sponsors can put on races such as this one outside of colorful Colorado. I got word of this potentially classic event through Risi and the folks at Big Sky last spring and agreed to race the Randonee portion of the race, which takes place the same day—but covers less mileage on easier terrain than the harder, premier SkiMo course. Sadly, the Rando was cancelled due to too few participants, so I got to swill a few extra pints and spend the following day shadowing former

“The guys on patrol, they’re going to deliver. They want to put on a race that’s relevant to real ski mountaineering.”

patrolman and photographer Jason Thompson. That gave me an up-closeand-personal experience freeskiing this sprawling mountain and taking in the sights and sounds of the top racers during competition.

PATROL ON THEIR SIDE Located just about 45 minutes from formerly quaint Bozeman, Big Sky Resort's base area is nice and manageable, small really, considering it accesses more than 5,800 skiable acres—bigger than Vail with more than two acres per skier all to oneself on any given day, no shit. After unpacking and jumping in the outdoor hot tub to soak in the scenery at the famous historic, and nicely renovated, Huntley Lodge, I navigated to an upstairs conference room and joined the race meeting, immediately recognizing one of my

FEELING THE BURN: WITH 5,800 SKIABLE ACRES CROWNED BY THE STEEPS ON 11,166FOOT LONE MOUNTAIN, BIG SKY RESORT IS IDEAL FOR SKI MOUNTAINEERING RACES. photo by JASON THOMPSON/BIG SKY RESORT

favorite inspirational Instagramers Meredith June Edwards, by her pink trucker hat and pigtails. “When there’s a required ice axe out, I'm more interested,” said Edwards, who had driven up from Jackson Hole, after she checked off the required safety test for the race. “I think the general consensus is it’s silly to call most of these races Ski Mountaineering because we are in bounds and going up groomers. But the Shedhorn puts the mountaineering back in SkiMo racing.” Hanging out in the bar after the

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READY TO RUMBLE: RACERS READY TO TAKE ON THE THIRD ANNUAL SHEDHORN. THE FIELD MAY BE SMALL, BUT THE GNARLY COURSE DRAWS TOP COMPETITORS. photo by JASON THOMPSON/BIG SKY RESORT

meeting, Shedhorn race co-director Noah Ronczkowski and I chatted about skiing, climbing, long-distance running, and the scene there at Big Sky. He and fellow patrollers’ enthusiasm for the event and the course design is no small part of the stoke factor. It’s not just Risi, whom many of the Colorado SkiMo tribe may know from the Arapahoe Basin race series or even from the pages of this magazine, that racers have to thank for the Shedhorn. On the local side it's Big Sky veteran ski patrollers Ronczkowski and Casey Heerdt. The climbing partners and guides do most of the heavy lifting and champion the event to their enthusiastic brethren of the white cross, all of whom seem oddly psyched about a group of outof-towners in spandex taking over the most dangerous aspects of their mountain for a day. Ronczkowski said they initially tried to envision Big Sky’s 4,350 vertical feet and Lone Mountain’s 11,166-foot summit sans lifts, allowing them to plot an extreme but logical course around the mountain. That wasn’t really hard to do, given the raw wildness of the area and

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303.444.0882

the fact that the Lone Peak Tram wasn’t installed here until 1995, which previously left the upper mountain mostly accessible only by human power. Now, visitors to Big Sky Resort can ski in almost every direction (about 280 degrees) off the top of the tram into an unprecedented amount of legit terrain.

THE RACE IS ON So there we were at the largest, most welcoming ski area in the country, witnessing American SkiMo history being made. And it wasn’t just ski patrol egging Risi on, it was Big Sky’s official marketing arm, who together with patrol had allegedly been plotting this race for several years before pulling the trigger in 2015 with an invite-only roster. The second running of the Shedhorn in 2016 featured 18 gnarly miles with about 9,000 vertical feet of climbing via skins, boots and fixed ropes. “Using the ascenders was pretty real,” Edwards said, laughing. “It was quite the jug up. Parts of the course felt like it was true no-fall zones … a real pucker factor in a race. I really enjoyed it.”

“... it’s silly to call most of these races ski mountaineering because we are in bounds and going up groomers. But the Shedhorn puts the mountaineering back in SkiMo racing.” An avi bomb on a timer kicked off the race—an irony and special gesture that doesn’t go unnoticed as the elite crew skinned away from the start at the base area. The fact that the resort is privately owned and sits mostly on private land is the other factor that makes this race unique and allows patrol to hang it out. At the end of the day, Edwards finished first among women and sixth overall. Fellow U.S. Ski Mountaineering Team member and Breckenridge local Teague Holmes finished second. Both say they are coming back in 2017. “There’s something in the water up here,” Holmes said. “The guys on patrol, they’re going to deliver. They want to put on a race that’s relevant to real ski mountaineering. Big Sky resort management and operational staff is 100 percent behind this race and they’re putting effort into producing a really good

event. Whereas 90 percent of the other ski areas are just tolerating the race, Shedhorn is like, ‘do whatever you want to do, we trust ski patrol to take people in logical places and keep them safe,’ and you can feel that when you’re there.”

GROWING THE STOKE Holmes, who may be the only athlete to complete the Shedhorn and The Rut (the three-day ultra-running competition on the same terrain in the summertime that draws thousands each year), says the Shedhorn is the closest thing to a true technical ski mountaineering race in the U.S. “It’s becoming a bucket list kind of race that appeals to a broader range of human-powered skiers,” he explained. The COSMIC Series is entering its tenth year and the SkiMo scene in the U.S. is finally coming into its own. Risi traveled more than 62,000 miles

last season and logging some 140 days on-mountain in the process. Montana is a booming hotspot for ultra-runners, and the Shedhorn is poised for growth. Risi says organizers want to create a no-holdsbarred event with the largest cash purse in North American SkiMo. “In the end, it’s game on. It’s gonna be awesome and it’s gonna be super techy,” Risi said. “It’s cliché, but we can literally do whatever we want.” —Elevation Outdoors Contributing Editor Aaron Bible lives at 8,400 feet in Nederland, Colorado, where he can literally look down his nose at Boulder.

DO THIS THING The third annual Shedhorn Ski Mountaineering Race will be back at Big Sky on March 18, 2017. bigskyresort.com/things-todo/events-calendar/2017/ march/shedhorn-ski-mo

Leadville, Co

10,200’

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SKI / RIDE CRESTED BUTTE & STAY in GUNNISON from $63 / night

Speak with a local to learn more (866) 535 1595 gunnisongetaway.com skier: Dave Bunt photo: Trent Bona

ABROAD

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ALLONS -ICE

LOOKING FOR SOME EPIC ICE TO STICK A PICK INTO THIS WINTER? HEAD TO FRENCH-SPEAKING CANADA AND MIX SOME CULTURE IN WITH YOUR FRONT POINTS. by PETE TAKEDA

photo by PETE TAKEDA

uebec ice. It’s up there. The climbs can be big, remote and cold—but they can also be straightforward and a stone’s throw from the road. And the setting is tough to beat: As soon as you cross the border or step off the plane it feels as if you've been whisked to another continent, especially since the predominant language is French. That said Quebec is neither France nor English-speaking North America. It’s a cultural region unique in our continent—and perhaps the world. Oh, and the ice climbing is world class. Quebec holds three percent of the planet’s fresh water. Combine that world's largest reserve and some of the coldest recorded temperatures in North America and you have some of the best (and most overlooked) ice climbing on the planet. It’s literally, in our backyard, but to most Americans, Quebec is a great white blank on our collective mental map. It’s north, up there somewhere sparsely illustrated with vague visions of Celine Dion, a whiff of poutine and maple syrup. But do we know that Quebec has its own flag? A national emblem that flies at equal height with the flag of Canada? Quebec is a country within a country. On the heels of a second and narrowly rejected referendum for independence in 1995, the Federal government recognized that, “the Quebecois form a nation within a united Canada.”

French is, of course, the official language and spoken by 95 percent of the population, who appreciate good food, the fruits of the intellect, art and the pitfalls of its creation. They are proud of a heritage that mashes up the legacy of native First Nations aboriginal roots, colonial New France dating from the 16th century and Anglo North America. Canada's largest province is also a destination climbing area well worth exploring. From the Arctic tundra of its far north to the temperate forests bordering Maine, Quebec encompasses nearly 600,000 square miles (that's almost three times the entire size of France). And it's empty. Most of its population resides in the strip of land bordering the St. Lawrence. Beyond is wilderness in the truest sense of the word.

WHEN TO GO The ice begins to come into condition in November. The best combination of longer days and slightly higher temperatures is February and March.

LOGISTICS • Fly to Montreal or Quebec City. Passport required. • Rent a car and find lodging. Hotels and Airbnb’s abound. Expect lower prices in winter, excluding Christmas (and Winter Carnival in Quebec City Jan 27–Feb 12, 2017).

• Day-trip out of Montreal and Quebec City. • Alternatively, cross the U.S. border into Quebec from Vermont (and sample the amazing ice of Lake Willoughby). Boston is a six-hour drive away.

PLACES NOT TO MISS VIEUX-QUÉBEC, QUEBEC CITY Old Quebec is home to cafes, tourist shops, restaurants and hotels, in what’s been called, the most European neighborhood in North America. Walk the narrow cobbled streets, visit the historic Plains of Abraham gaze in wonder at the iconic Chateau Frontenac. VIEUX-MONTRÉAL, MONTREAL With some of its buildings dating to the 17th century, Old Montreal is one of the oldest urban areas in North America with all the lively nightlife and entertainment you could want.

CLIMBING Though home to many of the most outrageous (and remote) ice climbs in North America, the following areas offer quick and easy introductions to climbing in the province: MONTMORENCY FALLS (WI 3 TO 5)

This large waterfall (270 feet) is minutes outside of Quebec City. There's easy access via a five-minute walk from the parking lot.

LET IT GO, BRO: COLD AND WILD YET WITH CLASSIC ICE OFTEN MINUTES FROM A ROAD, THE FROZEN WORLD OF QUEBEC ICE MAKES FOR AN IDEAL MID-WINTER JAUNT.

MCTAVISH RESERVOIR

This 15- to 30-foot high, 300-foot wide rock-band in the middle of Montreal turns into a great little ice training ground in the winter, and even gets enough light from the street lamps! GRINGALET (PINACLE) (WI 3 TO 4)

This three-pitch route (350 feet) lies on the eastern shore of Lac Lyster near Coaticook, three hours south of Montreal or Quebec City. It’s one of the best moderate multi-pitch ice routes in North America. BIGGER ROUTES LA MER DE GLACE (WI 3 TO 4+)

Located in Vallée du Bras du Nord a few hours northeast of Quebec City, La Mer de Glace (The Sea of Ice) offers 900 feet of rolling climbing on a vast shield of ice. LE PILIER SIMON-PROULX (WI 5)

A long days drive north of Quebec City, Le Pilier requires a three-hour ski or short snowmobile ride from the road south of Sept-Îles to reach. LA POMME D’OR (WI 5- TO 5+)

This is the Quebec classic. At six pitches (accumulating 1,090 feet) and 20 miles from the trailhead, La Pomme D’Or is a daunting challenge, but well worth the effort.

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GIFT GUIDE

KEEP HIM WARM

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PATAGONIA GRADE VII DOWN PARKA

GET HIM BETTER FOOTING ALTRA DESERT BOOT | Utah-based ultrarunning

brand Altra put the same roomy Footshape toe box and springy ZeroDrop sole it uses in technical runners in this casual kick. The result is a perfect dude shoe: comfy, easy to slip on and off and quite durable. $120: altrarunning.com

BOOZE HIM UP

Before you freak out over the price tag, consider that Patagonia is a company your Bernie Bro boy would be proud of—the B Corp must legally prioritize social and environmental good over profits. And the pure performance of this super-warm puffy is worth it: The waterresistant down can withstand the worst weather on Earth. $899; patagonia.com

TINCUP | Here's some advice: You can never go wrong when you

give him whiskey. But you will earn extra cool points here. TINCUP founder and Colorado man's man Jess Graber is the kind of guy you want to sip it with. He ran a construction company, rode rodeo, made a go as a countryfolk star and and fought fires before he focused on crafting this fine bourbon-style blend. $29; tincupwhiskey.com

MAN'S ROOM NOT SURE WHAT TO GET THE OUTDOOR GUY IN YOUR LIFE? HERE ARE OUR SUGGESTIONS FOR THE STUFF THAT DUDE NEEDS. | by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

CHANNEL HIS INNER NINJA AIRBLASTER MERINO NINJA SUIT

So you found his stash of X Men comics and Bruce Lee DVDs? Take solace in Woolverino, Airblaster's fast-drying and sustainbale blend of Merino and Tencel fabric that can withstand his exploits on the hill. $120; myninjasuit.com

FAT IS HOT REEB REEBDONKADONK ABT

Fat is definitely sexy these days when it comes to bikes, and the honking, American-steele-frame Reebdonkadonk can handle everything from snow to loose rock and sand. Plus, it's made by local Lyons-based brewers (and bike geeks) Oskar Blues. $2,900 and up; reebcycles.com

GIVE HIM GOOD JEANS ORTOVOX MERINO BLACK SHEEP DENIM

You may know Ortovox as a brand that builds avalanche transcievers. You may not know it also makes these hip climbing pants. He can wear them day-to-day but when he's ready for action, there's a Cordura-merino-and-Lycra stretch insert in the crotch and built-in chalk bag holder. $229; ortovox.com 28

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INHALE VAPIUM SUMMIT PLUS | Nothing says “I love you, honey” like a vape. Well, at least for some dudes. The FLEECE HIM weather-resistant Summit Plus keeps IRON AND RESIN PEAK PULLOVER FLEECE | SoCal brand Iron and things on the downlow when he's Resin hits just the right pose when it comes to crossing Harley cool with outdoors and the heating elements in outdoor style. This warm pullover can go everywhere from hut trips to it can be controlled with a nifty smart concerts at Red Rocks to the open road. $80; ironandresin.com phone app. $150; vapium.com

MORE WARMTH COTOPAXI KUSA BOMBER JACKET

THINK PONCHO SHERPA SAMCHI PONCHO

GIVE HER WARMTH PRANA JOELY BLANKET

Need another reason to cuddle up and binge watch Netflix? This cozy and colorful knit blanket will keep you close. $139; prana.com

Not only does this handmade poncho, crafted by women in Nepal, help that country get back on its feet. It's also made of soft, warm 100-percent lambswool. $120; sherpaadventuregear.com

Feeling good is more than physical. This jacket certainly has her covered when it comes to withstanding the elements while offering up a dash of classic bomber style. But that's not all. Cotopaxi is a certified B-Corp, working to alleviate poverty through its global grantgiving program, so she feels good wearing it on a deeper level, too. $190; cotopaxi.com

WOMAN'S WORLD YOU NEED SOME HELP WHEN IT COMES TO SHOPPING FOR HER AND WE ARE HERE FOR YOU. THESE GIFTS ARE SURE WINNERS. | by RADHA MARCUM

COMPLEMENT HER LEGS FLYLOW SHREGGINGS

Buh-bye ugly polyester long-johns. Hell-oo shred leggings, the base layer that doubles as an attractive legging for around town or après ski. $85; flylowgear.com

APPEAL TO UTILITY EDDIE BAUER AUSTERA PANTS

Not everything she wears has to be fancy. We appreciate utility, too, especially when we get out in the wild. Weather-resistant, breathable and versatile, these soft-shell pants are perfect for rugged winter hikes, climbing and mountaineering. $149; eddiebauer.com

DRINKING CHOCOLATE! CHOLACA

Chocolate heals all ills. Cholaca makes three varieties of pure liquid cacao, all from regenerative farms in Peru and Equador. (Cholaca also supplies nearly a dozen local Colorado breweries with liquid chocolate for craft beers.) $10 (12 ounce); cholaca.com

PRAISE HER FEET TEVA ARROWOOD LUX WP | Again, we appreciate

function—with some flair. These waterproof leather adventure treads keep her cold feet toasty without the bulk of a boot. And they look sleek. $140; teva.com

ODDS IN HER FAVOR PICTURE KATNISS JACKET

This jacket is so eco, it’s on fire. A brand born in Paris, Picture Organic Clothing features organic and recycled materials in each piece. The oh-so-lovely Katniss Jacket contains over 50-percent recycled polyester. $200; picture-organic-clothing.com D E C E M B E R 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

Photo: Xavi Fane

BIG AGNES

APPAREL is designed and tested in

Steamboat Springs, Colorado, so you can count on it when the snow’s chest deep, the sun sets on a chilly belay, or when temps are showing negative on the local bank sign in town.

Happy Winter. bigagnes.com

Outfitting Dirtbags Everywhere...

Tents • Sleeping Bags • Pads • Apparel • Helinox

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(Left) Women’s Shovelhead Jacket , (Right) Men’s Shovelhead Jacket,

S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

GIVE THE BEST GIFTS THIS YEAR.

Life is stressful and holiday shopping just adds to your already big to-do list, right? Breathe easy. We have you covered with a sweet rundown of gear for the outdoor adventurer in your life.

SEA TO SUMMIT

HELINOX BEACH CHAIR

AIRLOFT™ HAMMOCK MATTRESS

We design sleeping mats that are lightweight, compact and luxuriously comfortable. The matrix of individual air chambers called Air Sprung Cells™ evenly absorbs pressure and movement, providing comfort and support you’ve never felt before in an air mattress. Visit our website to learn more about these award-winning sleeping mats.

The Helinox Beach Chair is a versatile camp chair made for sticking your toes in the sand, keeping your backside out of the dirt and keeping your eyes on the sunset. A super-comfortable and supportive back-and-neck rest along with the simple shock cord poles make this the must-have chair for just about any occasion.

Beat the breeze with the first ever hammock specific mattress! Complete with attached comfort wings to cushion every contact point between you and your hammock, the AirLoft’s unique design provides complete insulation from below. Plus, this versatile self-inflating mattress also works sans hammock just by removing the wings.

SEATOSUMMIT.COM

BIGAGNES.COM

ENONATION.COM

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S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

OSPREY KAMBER/KRESTA SERIES

OBOZ BRIDGERS

GARMIN

Developed in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado with feedback from professional guides, ski patrollers and dedicated weekend warriors, the women’s Kresta and men’s Kamber packs are obsessively designed to match the passion and needs of off-piste professionals and recreationalists from Thompson Pass, Alaska, to the Chilean Andes or your local backcountry runs.

Grab your snowshoes (or not) and go! Oboz’ new waterproof and insulated Bridgers are built for winter explorations. Generous height is supportive, grippy winter-specific rubber secures your footing, and 200 grams Thinsulate™ guarantees cozy feet. Inside? Oboz’ thermal insole helps make long days easy on your feet. For men and women.

Peace of mind is being able to send and receive text messages, trigger an interactive SOS and navigate anywhere on earth. Stay connected with inReach Explorer, the satellite communicator with GPS and 100-percent global coverage. With it, you can plan, track and share your journey every step of the way.

OSPREYPACKS.COM

PETER W. GILROY JEWELRY Longs Peak Titanium Bracelet is a bracelet inspired by and as tough as the mountains and rocks that we love. Built to last a lifetime, this bracelet features the skyline of the iconic Longs Peak. A long time rock climber, Peter hand crafts this work and much more in his studio in Taos, New Mexico.

PETERWGILROY.COM

INREACHDELORME.COM OBOZFOOTWEAR.COM

POINT6 SKI BLEND The color transition on these ski socks from Point6 are as smooth as your ride down the mountain. Soft, compact-spun, New Zealand merino wool hugs your entire foot and leg with cushioning to keep you warm and dry. Great for cold mountain days and for cozying up to the fire.

ROMP SKIS Romp Skis designs and builds a unique pair of custom skis for each customer. We meticulously test the shapes of our skis so we know we are creating skis our customers will love. Romp Skis enhance skier’s skills and improve their strength. Romp Skis make skiing more fun.

POINT6.COM ROMPSKIS.COM 32

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S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

TOPO DESIGNS Notice the difference precision handcrafted quality makes in the new Topo Designs x Danner collaboration. The combination of timeless style and expert craftsmanship found in the Topo Designs Klettersack and Danner Ridge Boot can be passed down through generations. Both will withstand the elements and the test of time—and both are made in the USA.

TOPODESIGNS.COM

BRIDGEDALE CONTROL FIT II SKI SOCK MerinoFusion™ SKI technology brings Merino Wool together with technical fibres to provide balanced insulation with the highest levels of comfort. A special Boot Fit ski sock, the Control Fit II offers up lightweight performance fit with frictionfree slide zones for easy boot entry.

MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT DEWLINE HOODED JACKET

This is an outstandingly versatile, lightweight duvet that strikes the perfect balance between meaningful warmth and minimal pack size. Perfectly treading the line between the lightest duvets and our more substantial down jackets, the Dewline Hooded Jacket is a lightweight contender for serious environments.

MOUNTAIN-EQUIPMENT.COM BRIDGEDALE.COM/USA

NOSO PUFFY PATCHES Noso Patches are the coolest way to repair and add personal style to your gear. They are designed and tested in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and manufactured in the USA. Puffy Patches are available in six colors and five variety packets of three.

LIFESTRAW STEEL The LifeStraw Steel with two-stage filtration removes 99.9999 percent of bacteria and 99.9% of protozoa for up to 264 gallons of safe drinking water, and has a replaceable carbon filter to remove chlorine, bad taste and odor. Simply sip from any freshwater source along the way. Buy LifeStraw. Do good. Sip Safe.

NOSOPATCHES.COM LIFESTRAW.COM

BIG AGNES Q-CORE SLX AIR PAD The Q-Core SLX ups the ante on quilted comfort in the backcountry. Redesigned offset I-Beams create incredible multidirectional support and stability. The Q-Core SLX is lighter, tougher, easier to inflate/deflate, packs smaller, sleeps warmer... when it comes to superlight, 3-season comfort this pad stands alone.

BIGAGNES.COM D E C E M B E R 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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Vote for the best Businesses, Destinations, and Events of the Rockies. Nominations Accepted Nov. 28 - Dec. 12 Voting Dec. 19 - Jan. 16

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VAT I E L O E

THE 2016-2017 WINTER

CONTRIBUTORS: AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, KRISTA CRABTREE, LISA JHUNG, CAMERON MARTINDELL, JAYME MOYE, TIMMY O'NEILL, DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN, AVERY STONICH, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN

1. ATOMIC VANTAGE 100 CTI The flagship in Atomic's rebooted Vantage line, designed for all-mountain skiing, this 100-mm-underfoot beast features Atomic's All Motntain Rocker technology to give it some float in soft snow and a titanium inset that cuts down on chatter, keeping it quite stable. WHY IT WON: It's the ideal quiver-ofone ski—and that's what having a pass to Colorado's resorts demands. It gave us confidence on hardpack, but it was not a handicap on big dump days. In fact, we were shocked that a ski that held such a solid edge inbounds could be so playful when we steered it off piste. Fun. Just plain fun. That's why it won. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Ski resorts all over Colorado, including Arapahoe Basin, Vail, Beaver Creek, Keystone and Monarch Mountain. We also got glowing feedback from demo-day testers in Washington State, Utah and Wyoming. $700; atomic.com

2. ARC'TERYX ALPHA AR GLOVE (WOMENS) Built with Gore-Tex and leather, these gloves were designed to be used for alpinism and other outdoor activities that require dexterity in the cold. WHY IT WON: The gloves massively changed the experience of ice climbing for one of our female testers who suffers from cold hands and had to wear bulky gloves that were tough to climb in before she started wearing the Alpha AR. “They allow me to keep a good grip on ice tools while also keeping me warm in really cold temps,” she said. They also proved their worth snowshoeing, skiing and, especially, fatbiking. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Ice climbs across

Colorado. Fat biking in Leadville, Skiing at Monarch Mountain. $189; arcteryx.com

3. RAB ZERO-G Rab set out to win awards with this down masterpiece, or at least to make the best down jacket for everything from big alpine ascents to belaying friends on cold days. Weighing in at 11 ounces, it's built with Pertex's highend Quantum GL 7d and certified 1,000-fill (yes 1,000) on the inside. WHY IT WON: There's a glut of highend down jackets on the market. All deliver, but this one had just enough more to make it truly special. It starts with the hand-sorted responsible goose feathers that pack down tiny but still kept us warm on exposed climbs. But there's more: It's a big deal to have extras like pockets and a wirebrimmed hood in a jacket this light. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Big climbs and ski tours in Rocky Mountain National Park and the French Alps.

The reason we work for this magazine is that we have found ways to make our passions—for skiing, climbing, hiking, backpacking and simply being out in the wild—become our careers. Gear is important to us. We rely on it out there. So twice each year, we hand out our Peak Gear Awards to praise the stuff we really needed. We ask our contributors: What was the best gear you used over the past year? What gear can you not live without? What gear changed your life? These are the winners.

PEAK GEAR

DOORS

which saves about 80 grams each, so carrying the new Dragons saves weight and space on your rack. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Multi-pitch cllimbs across the Front Range. $70–$85; dmmclimbing.com

5. PATAGONIA ASCENSIONIST Made with lightweight ripstop nylon and featuring a removable frame and hipbelt, this 45-liter, 32-ounce pack is ideal for fast-and-light adventure. WHY IT WON: One word: Durability. This baby took serious abuse, dragged through everything from chimmneys to frozen waterfalls. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Absolutely everywhere, from the Front Range to Yosemite to alpine trips in Canada and Europe.

2. 1.

$179; patagonia.com

$550; rab.equipment/us

4. DMM DRAGON CAMS DMM updated its single-stem, doubleaxle cams by putting a TripleGrip tooth pattern on the heads, with three horizontal sets and two vertical. The idea is that the teeth increase friction in sub-optimal placements such as flared rock and slick and wet cracks. WHY IT WON: “Do extra teeth make a difference in holding power in standard placements?” said one tester. “What I do know is that the cams grind in the cracks when I place them, improving piece of mind.” A built-in extendable sling means you don’t have to carry a quickdraw,

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10. 8.

6. FLYLOW ALBERT The comfy Albert combines a two-layer waterproof/breathable membrane with 60 grams of PrimaLoft Eco insulation. The result is a jacket that's ideal for day-to-day at the resort without ever feeling overwhelming. WHY IT WON: Because it performs exactly as advertised. It kept out those vicious Eldora wind gusts and stayed dry thanks to sealed construction, but the insulation was never overkill. Big pit zips mean we didn't have to take it off when we hiked, and we appreciated the hood that actually fit a helmet. It's all we want in a jacket. WHERE WE TOOK IT: We put the Albert through its paces banging the lifts and hiking for turns at Loveland, Eldora, Keystone and Monarch Mountain. $420; flylowgear.com

7. PETZL REACTIX+ This comfortable, rechargeable 300-lumen headlamp with three useful beam widths is a tech geek's dream come true. Not only is it Bluetooth enabled, it's also completely programable. What's more, it actually adapts to ambient light around you, getting brighter or dimmer as needed. WHY IT WON: We confess. We were skeptical when we first saw it. All that programing sounded like too much work. Were we ever wrong. The

smart-phone interface is quite easy to use and you can make the process as simple or complex as you want. But when we really began to appreciate it was out in the field when we did not have to futz with it on our heads when we were mid-run or mid-climb. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Night climbing in the Flatirons. Winter runs and dog walks. Backpacking in Utah canyons. $110; petzl.com

8. STRAFE RECON This super-light (5.6 ounces in size medium), stretchy soft shell combines nylon and spandex to move with you in the midst of heart-pounding activities and offer up enough protection to keep out the chill of the high country. WHY IT WON: This minimalist is one of those pieces that you always grab no matter where you are headed. Ski touring, winter running, casual hiking, or even traveling and unsure what the weather might beâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it's versatile. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Dawn patrol ski tours in the Indian Peaks and Utah's Wasatch. Runs in the Collegiates. $189; strafeouterwear.com

9. MOUNTAINSMITH K9 PACK Golden, Colorado-based Mountainsmith collaborated with a vet who works with sled dogs to design a canine pack that both stays stable and

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does not end up causing any injury to your pup. WHY IT WON: Because we think that if we have all sorts of fancy gear out in the wild with us, our best friend should, too. It hauls extremely well: We packed it with five days of food, a collapsible bowl and a leash easy. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Backpacking trips in the Lost Creek Wilderness and Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. Tenth Mountain Division Hut System trips. $65; mountainsmith.com

10. ELAN RIPSTICK 94W A wood core and Vapor Tip inserts make the 94-mm-underfoot women's entry in the handmade European brand's Ripstick series a playful plank that can still engage on the groomers. WHY IT WON: It's a woman's ski that does not pull any punches, an allaround versatile weapon that can take on a wide variety of conditions. WHERE WE TOOK IT: They stood up to a full season of ripping in Colorado, Utah and British Columbia. $700; ripstick.elanskis.com

11.

Pertex's water-repellent face fabric with 875+-fill down in a vertical baffle system that cuts weight but not warmth. WHY IT WON: It's a cold-weather bag you can count on. We didn't even notice once when we woke up with a layer of frost on the bagâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;we slept sound, warm and dry on the comfy inside. Plus, the bag just feels plush and packs down small enough that it does not overwhelm a backpack. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Crater Camp at 18,000 feet on Africa's Mount Kilimanjaro, Montana's Gallatin National Forest in late October, all over Colorado on hut trips and camping. $679; marmot.com

11. MARMOT PLASMA 15

12. SALOMON CARBON SKATE LAB/PROLINK/S-LAB PACKAGE

Rated down to 15 degrees but weighing in under two pounds, this high-tech sleeping bag combines

Highlighted by Salomon's fast, light and stable Carbon Skate Lab skis, this Nordic setup (also including Prolink

15.

13. 12.

18.

14.

Carbon SK bindings, S-LAB Skate Prolink boots and S-LAB Carbon Kit poles) is just the ticket for people who are getting serious about racing. WHY IT WON: Skate skis are much like road bikes: Better equipment really does make a difference. The package made training a pleasure and set us on the road for our first competitive finishes in local events. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Eldora Nordic Center, Devil's Thumb Ranch, Snow Mountain Ranch. $800 skis, $120 bindings, $500 boots, $280 poles; salomon.com

13. VOORMI RIVER RUN HOODIE Pagosa Springs, Coloradobased Voormi crafted this light, do-anything base layer with UL Precision Blended Wool with merino sourced in the Rockies. A useful piece all year long, it weighs in at just six ounces. WHY IT WON: It just won't die. Our dirtbag climber says, “I currently wear this layer more than any other shirt I own (I have it on right now).” The lightweight merino layer has survived non-stop use on everything from runs in the rain, to cragging to drinking.

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WHERE WE TOOK IT: Up offwidths in Boulder Canyon, on long routes in Eldorado Canyon, out to the bar. $129; voormi.com

14. MSR ACCESS 2 This simple, surprisingly light (three pounds, ten ounces), two-person winter shelter uses sturdy Easton Syclone poles for support. WHY IT WON: After weathering two are-we-going-to-make-it? windy nights on the slopes of Washington's Mt. Baker, this tent made us believers. The carbon fiber poles gave with the massive wind gusts and popped right back. Plus, it's spacious for two, with room to sit up and wait out that storm. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Mount Baker; various Colorado excursions. $600; cascadedesigns.com

15. ALPACKA SCOUT Designed for true expeditions to deep canyons or even bikepacking, Alpacka's Scout is a minimalist oneperson pack raft that weighs just three pounds, nine ounces and compresses down to five inches by 20 inches, about the size of a packed sleeping bag. WHY IT WON: Being able to transition into a boat changes the possibilities when it comes to exploring the wilderness. The Scout in particular, packs down small enough to stay out

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of the way during most of a trip, but it's sturdy, reliable and surprisingly easy to navigate once you launch it. You can get it in custom colors for an extra $75. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Canyoneering expeditions in the Grand Canyon. Fly fishing on alpine lakes in Rocky Mountain National Park

device you can attach to the outsole. WHY IT WON: The removable traction device means you can get all the advantages of a more technical shoe when you want it, but don't have to look like a dork when you don't. WHERE WE TOOK IT: They were a standby all winter on three continents.

$545–$620; alpackarafts.com

$220; icebug.com

16. TASC WOMEN'S BASE LAYER 1/4 ZIP

18. ARC'TERYX VOLTAIR 30L

A blend of bamboo fabric and merino wool, this baselayer doesn't just regulate temperature and wick away sweat when you are playing—it also just feels good against your skin. WHY IT WON: It comes down to the comfort. “This fabric is so soft and comfortable, and retains its shape really well,” said one tester. It also does cut down on stink thanks to the antimicrobial properties of both fabrics. Believe us (we've worn it days on end.) WHERE WE TOOK IT: All over the world from Colorado to Bosnia to Australia— skiing, hiking, climbing, you name it. $90; tascperformance.com

17. ICEBUG IDUN The classy Idun combines waterrepellent-treated suede and leather in a high boot design for a stylish winter kick that's got some guts thanks to a unique, removable, six-stud traction

While most avalanche air bags deploy via the force of a canister of compressed gas, the Voltair uses a powerful fan, powered by a Lithium Polymer rechargeable battery, to inflate the bag. Pulling the cord could save your life if stuck in a slide by bringing you to the top of the snow. It also continues to fill in small bursts that can overcome a small rip in the bag. WHY IT WON: Full disclosure: We have never had to use the Voltair when it counted—and we hope we never have to use it. The light bag system did address lots of issues we have had with other air bags, however. Most importantly, it's easy to travel and, especially fly, with the pack and air bag system. It's also possible to practice deploying the air bag over and over since there's no canister. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Backcountry skiing and touring on the Front Range. $1,300; arcteryx.com

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Mine” and urgently desperate in the garage rock scorcher “Shut Up Kiss Me.” In the seven-minute, slowly drifting “Sister,” Olsen croons about a break-up through a Mellotron haze before the song peaks with distorted, theatrical intensity. It’s one of many tracks filled with heartfelt fury that add up to give the album its unique, authentic atmosphere.

by JEDD FERRIS

legacy of his lengthy tenure with the Grateful Dead, so the singer/ guitarist’s first album of new solo material in a decade was a welcome surprise. Weir, now 69, wanted to capture the spirit of a long-ago teenage journey to the mountains of Wyoming. Helping him get there was a cast of indie rock all-stars, including producers Josh Kaufmann, Aaron and Bryce Dessner of the National and singer-songwriter Josh Ritter, who co-wrote much of the lyrics. The result is an engaging set of traditional songcraft imbued with rock edge, as Weir reflects intensely through old cowboy imagery and landscapes of yesteryear.

STURGILL SIMPSON

DRIVE-BY TRUCKERS

HEAR THIS

12.16

THE BEST ALBUMS OF 2016

AS ANOTHER YEAR PACKED WITH SOLID NEW RELEASES COMES TO AN END, WE RUN DOWN OUR TOP PICKS FOR TUNES YOU SHOULD BE LISTENING TO ON YOUR WAY TO ADVENTURE.

samples, synths, beats and vocal effects. It’s a dense, aural journey with a lot packed into 10 tracks that run just over 30 minutes. But it’s ultimately one worth taking, full of captivating payoffs. Glitchy tension in tracks like the jarring “10 d E A T h b R E a s T ” and the Auto-Tune a cappella of “715 - CR∑∑KS” (yes, all of the song titles are this strange), is ultimately

“A SAILOR’S GUIDE TO EARTH” Nashville agitator Sturgill Simpson had lofty expectations on his shoulders following the success of his cosmic country breakout “Metamodern Sounds in Country Music.” With this year’s “A Sailor’s Guide to Earth” he responded by veering in a different sonic direction that still suits his Waylon-Jenningsredux of a voice. Simpson fills the album, largely a letter to his young son, with horn blasts and dusty soul grooves. That appraoch is most effective in the funk romp “Keep It Between the Lines,” a drawl-heavy finger-pointer about staying on the straight and narrow, and another gem, the haunting, roadhouse ballad treatment of Nirvana’s “In Bloom.”

relieved in the soothing futuristic R&B of “8 (circle)” and the airy “29 #Strafford APTS.” Lingering in every adventurous song are Vernon’s tuneful core and cryptically evocative poetry—quite comforting when things get weird.

WHITNEY

BON IVER ANGEL OLSEN “MY WOMAN” In “My Woman” Angel Olsen, known as a solitary indie folk singer, stretches out with an eclectic array of rock arrangements. The record’s centerpiece is Olsen’s flexible, dramatic voice, which has undeniably powerful range. It sounds wallflower sweet in the vintage-girl-group pop of “Never Be

“22, A MILLION” In “00000 Million,” a spacey piano ballad and the closing track on Bon Iver’s “22, A Million,” Justin Vernon soulfully sings: “Must have been forces that took me on them wild courses.” Indeed, Vernon seems a full dimension away from his 2007 trend-setting indie folk breakout “For Emma, Forever Ago.” Throughout his new album, Bon Iver’s first in five years, he wanders through a digital wilderness full of

“LIGHT UPON THE LAKE” This delightful surprise of a debut comes from a new band formed by guitarist Max Kakacek, formerly of the Smith Westerns and drummer/singer Julien Ehrlich, who did time in Unknown Mortal Orchestra. While holed up during a rough Chicago winter, the new musical partners—both dealing with recent break-ups—crafted a batch of organic indie rock songs that sound much sunnier than the circumstances that birthed them.

BOB WEIR “BLUE MOUNTAIN” Bob Weir normally rides the

“AMERICAN BAND” The Southern rock outfit’s best album since the band’s early aughts hey-day, “American Band” is a political record for our time, taking a poignant dive into the country’s current social ills. Songwriting foils and co-band leaders Patterson Hood and Mike Cooley are both at the top of their games, still eversearching for the human details within big picture issues—tackling, racial divides, gun violence and immigration, among others. Cooley engages those resisting removal of the Confederate Flag in the swampy punk stomper “Surrender Under Protest.” Hood tugs at heartstrings in the soulful “Guns of Umpqua,” written about last year’s mass shooting at Oregon’s Umpqua Community College. It’s a song that’s simultaneously beautiful and terrifying—clearly capable of making people on both sides of the aisle feel something.

CAR SEAT HEADREST “TEENS OF DENIAL” On this raw album, Will Toledo, who records as Car Seat Headrest, sings, “Here’s that voice in your head/ Giving you shit again/But you know he loves you/And he doesn’t mean to cause you pain.” Toledo’s brain is a ball of emotional confusion, but he processes his thoughts into some seriously great rock and roll. After 12 self-released bedroom albums, “Teens of Denial” is his true coming out party with a full backing band. It seethes with some of the best elements of Pavement, Guided by Voices and Weezer—witty angst turned into distorted glory.

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S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

We’re Hiring!! • Good with words? • Enjoy sharing your adventures through images, videos, & social media? • Have you & your friend/ relative/partner ever dreamed of hitting the road & becoming a part of the #vanlife culture?

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Your gift to Big City Mountaineers will help change the lives of under-resourced youth through inspirational wilderness expeditions and camps. Since 1990 BCM has provided over 40,000 nights under the stars for kids in need.

BIGCITYMOUNTAINEERS.ORG/DONATE Big City Mountaineers is a charitable 501 (c)(3) nonprofit organization. 710 10th Street | Suite 120 |Golden, Colorado 80401 | (303) 271-9200

[Background] BCM Collection [Inset Top Left] Marie Oman [Inset Bottom Left] Jody VanRipper [Inset Right] Heather McGonegle

Now’s your chance to make that dream into a reality. Log onto : elevationoutdoors.com/ employment for the job description & application process for our 2017 Live Outside and Play road team. We provide access to FREE outdoor adventures for all, through events and programs that empower individuals, create healthier communities, and foster a respect for the environment.

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DECEMBER 2016 GUIDE

Every December, Elevation Outdoors features this Good Giving Guide to express just how important it is for us to give back. We know that all of our readers have causes that they care about. Please think carefully about how you can contribute to your community, animal welfare, the environment, our trails or whatever cause you care most about this season. Donations are great, but your time is valueable, too! Happy Holidays from the EO team and best wishes for safe travels and warm reunions with loved ones.

Big City Mountaineers

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Mission Statement: Our mission is to instill critical life skills in under-resourced youth through transformative wilderness mentoring experiences. Since 1990, Big City Mountaineers (BCM) has provided over 40,000 nights under the stars for kids from low-income communities across the country. Today we serve Boston, Miami, Denver, Minneapolis, Seattle, Portland, and San Francisco. Location: Golden, Colorado bigcitymountaineers.org/donate | 303-271-9200

Mission Statement: At Eagles Nest Outfitters we’re not only about making quality adventure products and industry leading outdoor accessories; we’re also about making the world a better place! When you give a Special Edition ENO Hammock this holiday season you are helping to protect our wild places by supporting one of our conservation partners including the ATC, PCTA, NPS, and LNT. Location: Asheville, North Carolina ENOnation.com | 828-252-7808

Colorado Ocean Coalition

Mission:Wolf

Mission Statement: We engage inland communities and states with land-to-sea stewardship by providing opportunities to participate in national policy with the Inland Ocean Delegation. We train citizens to facilitate local engagement with water and promote chapters across North America. Volunteers share awareness around sustainable seafood choices, plastic pollution and actions that support healthy watersheds. Location: Boulder, Colorado Fun Fact: Eighty percent of marine pollution comes from inland sources. ColoradoOcean.org | 720-253-2007

Mission Statement: Mission: Wolf connects people with nature via hands-on experiential education, and inspires individuals to become stewards of the Earth. We provide a home for rescued wolves and horses, and we create opportunities for growth through service and personal interactions with animals. The sanctuary is operated entirely on volunteer labor and it is open year-round. Location: Westcliffe, Colorado missionwolf.org | 719-859-2157

Mission Statement: Our mission is to provide access to outdoor adventures for all through events and programs that empower individuals, create healthier communities and foster a respect for the environment. Based along the Front Range, UpaDowna has helped support over 15,000 participants get outside for adventure. Come join us and learn more about our all inclusive programming. We have the gear, we have the knowledge, and we have the passion to change the world! Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado upadowna.org | 719-216-2183

Continental Divide Trail Coalition Mission Statement: The Continental Divide Trail (CDT) spans 3,100 miles between Mexico and Canada, traverses five states and connects countless communities along its spine. The Continental Divide Trail Coalition (CDTC) works to protect, preserve, and promote the CDT. The CDTC focuses on stewardship, community engagement and education outreach to build a stronger trail community and protect the CDT as a national treasure. Location: Golden, Colorado continentaldividetrail.org | 303-996-2759

Paradox Sports Mission Statement: Paradox Sports’ mission is to revolutionize lives through adaptive climbing opportunities, including weekend trips and technical trainings. Paradox Sports seeks to recognize and foster an individual’s potential and strength, defying the assumption that people with a physical disability can’t lead a life of excellence. The organization’s recent move to Eldorado Springs is opening doors for more local programs here in Colorado! Location: Eldorado Springs, Colorado paradoxsports.org | 720-638-5593

Wild Animal Sanctuary Mission Statement: The Wild Animal Sanctuary is a 720-acre refuge for more than 450 lions, tigers, bears, wolves and other large carnivores that were rescued from illegal or abusive situations. These rescued animals are rehabilitated and released into large natural habitats where they roam freely while living with others of their own kind. The Sanctuary is open to the public for educational purposes and features the world’s longest elevated walkway (one-and-a-half-miles long), which protects the animals’ sovereignty while also providing unparalleled wildlife viewing for sanctuary guests. The sanctuary’s new 48,000-square-foot Welcome Center Complex hosts a modern café that offers lunch and dinner, while an old-fashioned ice cream shop serves 24 unbelievably rich flavors. Location: Keenesburg, Colorado WildAnimalSanctuary.org | 303-536-0118

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The Continental Divide Trail is much more than just a line on a map: it is a living museum of the American West, a place to reconnect with nature, and a unifying force bringing people of all walks of life together. The CDTC is a non-profit that protects this nationally significant resource and we need your help! Learn more, become a member or donate at: WWW. CONTI NE NTALDIV IDET RAIL .ORG

THE ROAD

12.16

SEASONS OF WINTER A TREE IN A TRAIL BECOMES THE STANDARD-BEARER FOR THE LONG, SLOW AND LOVELY CHANGES OF THE DEEP SEASON. by DREW POGGE

here’s a tree I watch. It’s an ancient spruce, and it has been dead for decades, stripped of branches and bleached a rich grey by weather and time. Vibrant streaks of contrasting black and ocher grain bleed from knots where branches once grew—if it were barn wood, it’d sell for $5 a board foot. But this tree is located at about 8,400 feet, just below treeline and near the backcountry yurt I operate as a ski guide. Our season runs from early December through June, which means I’m in these mountains for seven months a year, and I pass this particular tree with every trip up and down. It has become a landmark, a timepiece, a calendar and a friend. It 44

on a skim-coat of snow, hardly aware has become the yardstick by which I of its presence save for a subconscious measure winter. Bright green foliose lichen grows acknowledgement that one day, after on the north side of the twisted trunk, years of leaning, it’ll likely fall at the and woodpeckers have excavated very moment I pass (hey, I was raised an impressive cavity about halfway Lutheran). At this time, the landscape up, now frequently occupied by is still just a lightly frosted version of chipmunks. At some point, probably its summer self—angular and hard, during a fierce with sticks winter storm, and snags It's this process, of learning talus it toppled to see the mountains breathe, and poking out downhill—but that produces my greatest at severe hung up in the crotch satisfation—more than deep angles. Skiing is of a sturdy powder, or steep lines, or big best reserved whitebark for grassy pine. It days. meadows would’ve and alpine gullies, but real winter is been a sight to behold, that fall, as brewing. the spruce’s great roots ripped from With every storm, the snowpack the ground in slow, moaning defeat, continues to grow deeper. Finally, clutching boulders the size of garbage the season begins in earnest. cans amidst the woody, earthen Sometime in December, I always tangle. It happened to fall over a notice the tree as if for the first steep section of singletrack trail—the time—it surprises me. trail I skin up several days a week all It’s markedly closer to eye level winter—forming a perfect arboreal arch. In the summer it’s about 10 feet than just a few days earlier, it seems. off the ground; riders on horseback The enormous, tentacled root ball can pass under it easily. But in winter, is suddenly drifted over so that it's everything changes. just another snowy mound. On top of the log, a fresh cap of snow (that In the preseason, I ski beneath it

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HOME SWEET YURT: SPEND A SEASON GUIDING CLIENTS TO POWDER STASHES DEEP IN MONTANA'S TOBACCO ROOT MOUNTAINS AND YOU DEVELOP A SENSE FOR THE SLOW CHANGES AROUND YOU. photo courtesy MONTANA ALPINE ADVENTURES

wasn’t there a couple of days earlier, I swear) displays each storm layer in perfect relief—the stratigraphy of the season—and its incremental growth is engaging. Each trip up the skintrack, I anticipate the tree and it’s mushrooming snowcap. I look ahead to gauge “how we’re doing,” and always find that tree. It has become a satisfying symbol of the deepening winter. The land slowly sheds its angularity: Edges round. Margins become undefined. Snow and wind smooth the terrain into sculpted curves. But the grand scale of the mountains is too large, and it’s difficult to see winter’s change as anything but a general whitening. There's more snow, or less rock. There’s too much to take in—it’s difficult to see the forest for the trees. Except for one. At this tree, the change is apparent, and encouraging. It is the constant and the standard-bearer.

f course, there are other, similar indicators of the passage of winter. There’s Sugar Bowl, a short but beloved ski run near the yurt that in the summer is a horrifying jumble of van-sized granite blocks. To see it then makes any idea of skiing there seem crazy. But it blows in deep and cold, and by December, the rocks have rounded off and the spaces between have inexplicably filled. By January or February, the boulders are mostly gone. The jumble is erased, and the slope is planar and smooth and perfect for relaxed powder turns. My guests have no idea of the chaos that lies just a few feet below—but the knowledge makes me appreciate each turn that much more. It’s a secret I share with the mountains. The yurt itself is a yardstick, too. When it goes up in the crisp days of fall, the floor is more than two feet off the ground. The walls add another seven feet, and standing beside it, looking up at the edge of the roof, it seems impossible that snow could pile up so deep. But pile up it does. It starts slow, with storms that drop a few inches at a time. We step up to the deck, shovel the modest accumulation, and hope for more. We begin skiing, and even as we begin to enjoy good turns, at the end of the day we lean our skis against the yurt walls, and the tips don’t come close to reaching the roof yet. Then one day, I realize we aren’t stepping up to the deck anymore. After another storm or two, the shoveling becomes more difficult as we must lift the snow away, rather than push it off. And finally, I find myself cutting stairs in the snow, down to the door. In the deepest years, the yurt is completely buried, and we must dig a moat around the edge of the roof to give it room to shed. It amazes me every time, though I should be accustomed to it— but there is magic in snow that can conceal a building, small as it may be. But snow doesn’t just fall uniformly, and fill in the dark spaces. Up in the alpine, we watch the lines change day by day as snow and wind and sun play on one another like strokes from a painter’s brush. And as the mountains fill and spread and strip and swale, there's a rhythm to these strokes. The mountains breathe. And by matching the rhythm and watching the rise and fall, we explore and ski and laugh. It is this process,

DEEP IN THE MOMENT: THE WORLD CHANGES AT LEAST FOR A BRIEF TIME, AND THOSE HARD LANDSCAPES THAT LOOK IMPOSSIBLE TO SKI OR RIDE IN SUMMER BECOME A GIGANTIC PLAYGROUND. photo courtesy MONTANA ALPINE ADVENTURES

of learning to see the mountains breathe, that produces my greatest satisfaction—more than deep powder, or steep lines, or big days. We make a relationship with the place, like the one I have with the tree in the trail.

the tree is below our ski tips—a welcome perspective that signifies a winter gone right. Inevitably though, when feet of snow balance improbably on the narrow, convex trunk, temptation becomes too great and someone here comes a day, usually in knocks that lovely pillow of snow late January or early February, down. With an impetuous kick, they break it when I try to free, and the Sometime in December, I duck under beautiful always notice the tree as if the tree and cornice lands for the first time—it surprises with a thud. realize it’s no longer It’s irrational, me. It’s markedly closer to practical. I know, but it eye level than just a few days saddens and Doing a limbo just to stay angers me: earlier, it seems. on the trail Why knock is silly. So the track shifts uphill, it off? There is only one reason: A crossing over the mound where the desire to destroy something beautiful. enormous root ball would be, if it I try not to fret about human nature weren’t buried by feet of snow. Now too much.

There is a silver lining, however. The broken pillow fills the remaining space under the tree, and by the next storm, the trunk is just a bump in the track. As I ski over it, I try to wrap my head around the idea that we’re high above the summer ground. Horses can walk in the space under our feet. In the way a child is delighted by something he can’t understand, I am delighted by imagining the lost world beneath our skis. In that moment, the winter is full and good and complete. Deep snow is the new reality, and what came before doesn’t matter. And the tree remains my yardstick, even below the surface, because the season is far from over. Drew Pogge is a freelance writer and the former editor of Backcountry magazine. He also owns, rents out and guides trips from the Bell Lake Yurt in Montana’s Tobacco Root mountains. belllakeyurt.com

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ELWAYVILLE

12.16

PERSONAL PEAKS AS THE WILD RIDE OF 2016 COMES TO A CLOSE WE GIVE YOU FIVE THINGS TO CELEBRATE THIS YEAR. by PETER KRAY

ndeed, this was the craziest year ever. Election years are always a bit insane, but we began with a level of lies, animosity and outright thuggery like I have never seen before. And we ended up with it getting even worse. It has also been a tough one for me because I recently held the kindest, most pure-hearted fuzzy friend I’ve ever had in my arms as she died. Ever since, I’ve been sending smoke signals up to Doggie Heaven. It was also crazy on a positive note because the Broncos won the Super Bowl, right when everyone in Elwayville might have been starting to wonder if any team in this town would ever wear another championship ring. We should start there. Let’s start with feeling happy again. There have already been more than enough angry op-eds, blathering TV heads, and outright moments of insanity for everyone. So let’s not forget how to feel good, especially just because OUTRAGE is what the media has gotten best at selling. Here’s a little roundup of what I’m feeling really good about this season.

#1 THE SKI TRAIN Is there a Nobel Prize for skiing? (There is apparently one for rock and roll—congratulations and exceedingly well earned, Bob Dylan!) But if alpine sports were to receive such an honor for promoting peace, powder, and goggle tans, the Winter Park Ski Train would be one of the first institutions to earn one. As a former ski train kid who fell in love with everything—mountain travel, athletic women, weekends in motion—while riding said train, my adult mind is reeling at the chance to ride the train again this winter, with the opportunity to avoid I-70 traffic for turns and indulge in a stiff libation on the relaxed ride back home. llustration by KEVIN HOWDESHELL / kevincredible.com

#2 EARNING TURNS Staying on the skin track, I’m also stoked about the ongoing growth of uphill skiing. Nothing eases the mind and works the body better than a good snow climb. As Sisyphean a task as it may seem to some, I think skinning gives you the chance to slow down and enjoy winter a little bit more than those folks counting up vert like airline miles. The sun seems sweeter, the snow squeakier, the turns more meaningful, and beer even colder when you get back to the bottom. I will be heading to Eldora and Monarch, who are both making a big commitment to uphill traffic this winter. I, for one, wish them much success enabling the uphill burn.

#3 STAYING FRIENDS WITH FRIENDS I’m not going to let us all off the political hook so easily. Boundaries have been crossed before and after this election. Most of us (#guilty) have made politically and perhaps personally charged statements in the heat of the moment that we might now regret. This is the perfect

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time to make amends. My parents, diehard Democrats, and their best friends, rank and file Republicans, never let politics get in the way of their love and respect for each other, and shared some very thoughtful, productive discussions. As a staunch Independent, I’ve never wanted to be chained to the dogma of either party, and like my parents and their buddies, continue to find in my own diverse community that we all still want the best for everyone. That’s not political, it’s human.

#4 REMEMBERING HOW GOOD WE’VE GOT IT An old friend and colleague recently contacted me and asked me to help him tell his life story. A thoughtful, articulate, fiercely intelligent individual, he grew up in Cambodia during the reign of the Khmer Rouge. He witnessed and endured the kinds of atrocities and depravities most of us will thankfully never be able to imagine. It’s a rare gift to be able to share his story, and to hear how through sheer will and blind luck at times, he survived to find success

here in Colorado and raise a strong family of his own. I’m most amazed at his great sense of humor, and how often after relating some harrowing tale, he will say, “I was very fortunate that time.” I tell him, “I think your definition of ‘fortunate’ is very different than mine.” We could all be a little more grateful for all the opportunities and amenities we enjoy in this country.

#5 WINTERTIME! October is my favorite month, but winter is my favorite season. Being outside in the cool air with the beauty of the blank landscape feels better than just about anything. Whether it’s skiing, stargazing or just walking around town with the love of my life, I’m always inspired by cold weather and snow. It’s the wonder of the West that we get to revel in it for so long. Be safe. Have fun. Be nice to someone. —Elevation Outdoors editor-at-large Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing. The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” Don’t believe the hype? You can buy it here: bit.ly/godofskiing

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