The Virginia Sportsman Spring 2019

HUNTING IN ARGENTINA | BLACKBERRY SMOKE’S SOUTHERN SOUND | SPRING TRAVEL GEAR | CAN FISHING SAVE OUR OCEANS?

SPRING 2019

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THE SPRING 2019 ISSUE

FEATURES 26 DELIVERY David Sartwell gives us an inside look at the dynamics of a multiday sailing adventure that starts in the Chesapeake Bay and finishes in Key West.

35 TEAL TIME IN ARGENTINA Our author makes the most of his time in Argentina: hunting teal and fishing for golden dorado and piranha.

42 BEAR LAKE RESERVE From hiking and fishing to wine tastings and front-porch relaxation, contributor Julie Simmons shares the splendors of this idyllic escape in the Blue Ridge Mountains of western North Carolina.

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SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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DEPARTMENTS THE SPRING ISSUE 2019

12 THE SOUND Blackberry Smoke offer an acoustic take on Southern Rock.

14 GREAT ESCAPE Take a journey to Yorktown with a look back at a historic natural landmark, Cornwallis’ Cave.

16 RAISE A GLASS Virginia’s Primland Resort provides a true moonshine experience.

22 FROM THE FIELD The Man O’ War Project’s equineassisted therapy study shows promise helping vets with PTSD.

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56 OUTFITTED

ON THE COVER

Spring into the season with our guide to the best new travel gear.

60 WELL READ Patagonia’s Simple Fly Fishing strips away complexity with Japanese tenkara technique.

14

63 OPEN SPACES

Can fishing save our oceans? Professor Sid Dobrin makes a case with an excerpt from his new book.

AFTER A FIVEMINUTE LESSON, N I N E -Y E A R O L D LOLA PROCEEDED TO LAND 17 RAINBOWS IN A DAY A N D A H A L F. FALL RIVER, IDAHO / PHOTO BY JEREMY KORESKI

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IN EVERY ISSUE

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

S I M P L E F LY FISHING: THE O’DELL CREEK GANG / PHOTO

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

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The Spring 2019 Issue

EDITOR’S NOTE

S

ince 2003, The Virginia Sportsman has celebrated sporting life and culture, covering active pursuits for a loyal readership in Virginia and beyond. In each issue, we cover a broad range of sporting and lifestyle interests, from fly fishing, hunting and shooting sports, to land preservation and recreational land management. We include stories on equestrian activities, historic homes and gardens and destination travel. The magazine also features food, wine and spirits, sailing and boating.

Recently we made significant investments that created a new energy and robust infrastructure of talented writers, graphic artists, web designers and business people with vast expertise in publishing. As you will notice in these pages, our Spring 2019 issue debuts a complete redesign of the magazine with expanded editorial coverage and new departments in travel, spirits, the environment, gear reviews, music and books. Through this transformation, we’ll stay true to our roots, the same core values and interests that have been cherished by our readers since our beginning.

In our new “Well Read” department, I cover the ancient Japanese no-reel, tenkara technique of fly fishing with a review of Simple Fly Fishing: Techniques for Tenkara Rod & Reel. This beautiful book was written

by Patagonia founder and lifelong fisherman Yvon Chouinard along with fly-fishing gurus Mauro Mazzo and Craig Mathews. Equal parts “how-to” and manifesto, Simple Fly Fishing speaks to a new generation of young anglers and a growing number of women interested in the sport. It also delivers a message: catch trout simply with a rod, line and fly.

Also, in this issue, contributor David Sartwell recounts delivering a 50-foot sailboat from the Chesapeake Bay to Key West, Florida. In “Teal Time in Argentina,” he delivers a second feature story on a recent hunting trip to South America with his wife, photographer Mary Gayle Sartwell. A third feature by Julie Simmons, frequent contributor to Amelia Islander magazine, highlights the stunning natural beauty of Bear Lake Reserve, a luxury resort community situated in the Blue Ridge Mountains of western North Carolina.

In “The Sound,” our new music department, Managing Editor Jedd Ferris reviews Backberry Smoke and their planned acoustic tour. Emerging from Atlanta in the early 2000s, the five-piece outfit initially became Southern rock torchbearers, mingling in the same scene as the Black Crowes and Gov’t Mule. But as time has gone on, the band has proven to be even more versatile.

Ferris also contributes gear reviews in “Outfitted,” which in this issue covers spring travel gear and apparel, including the Leatherman Wave, Topo Designs Global Jacket, California Cowboy High Water Shirt and Mountain Khakis Camber 107 Short.

Our “Great Escape” department includes a story by Chiles Larson on Cornwallis’ Cave, a significant natural Yorktown Battlefield landmark full of legend overlooking 10

THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

the York River beachfront that still exists in Historic Yorktown today. In our “Raise a Glass” section, Editorat-Large Eric Kallen raises several glasses on a visit to the Primland Resort, where he learned about the history of moonshine firsthand by sampling crafted libations infused with a true American spirit.

This issue also includes my “From the Field” report on the Man O’ War Project and its groundbreaking research on equine-assisted therapy (EAT) for military veterans with post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD).

The treatment—called EAT-PTSD—was designed to address hallmark symptoms of the disorder that have a significant impact on daily functioning. Horses are wonderful creatures and seem to have a beneficial effect

on all humans involved in this important undertaking.

I also hope you enjoy our new “Open Spaces” environmental department, which in this issue excerpts Fishing, Gone?: Saving the Ocean through Sportfishing

by Sid Dobrin. Spring 2019 also has a photo spread courtesy of Historic Garden Week. Presented by the Garden Club of Virginia, the event is the nation’s only statewide house and garden tour contributing to our state and regional economies.

Thank you for reading. We hope you enjoy the new look and feel of the same publication you’ve been reading all these years.

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SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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The Spring 2019 Issue | THE SOUND

BACK BASICS SOUTHERN ROCKERS BLACKBERRY SMOKE PLOT ACOUSTIC TOUR

BY JEDD FERRIS

B

lackberry Smoke has spent nearly two decades building a loyal following with a dynamic sound that mixes the anthemic power of Lynyrd Skynyrd with the bluesy experimentation of the Allman Brothers Band, while also incorporating a bevy of roots-based influences in between. Emerging from Atlanta in the early 2000s, the five-piece outfit initially became Southern rock torchbearers, mingling in the same scene as the Black Crowes and Gov’t Mule. But as time has gone on, the band has proven to be even more versatile.

The group’s 2015 album Holding All the Roses and the follow-up, 2016’s Like An Arrow, both topped the Billboard country chart, and on last year’s Find A Light, 12

THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

the band’s sixth and latest full-length studio album, it explores an expanded breadth of sonic terrain. With help from some notable special guests, the latter moves from the riff-heavy stomp of standouts “Flesh and Bone” and “The Crooked Kind” to the soaring gospel coda of “I’ll Keep Ramblin,’” which features a fierce guitar assist from pedal steel wiz Robert Randolph. Blackberry Smoke front man Charlie Starr also shares soulful vocals with fiddler/singer-songwriter Amanda Shires in the chorus of the melodic front-porch tune “Let Me Down Easy.”

Last fall, the band also released a short companion EP, The Southern Ground Sessions, which features acoustic versions of five Find A Light tracks, as well as

a cover of Tom Petty’s “You Got Lucky.” Recorded at Zac Brown’s Southern Ground Studios in Nashville, the short effort offers homey, bare-bones sketches of songs like “Run Away from It All,” which becomes a warm, livingroom-style meditation on the occasional need to escape.

On the heels of this concept, the band will embark on its first-ever acoustic tour this spring. Covering parts of the Northeast, Midwest and South, the Break It Down Tour includes two nights at the Opera House in Lexington, Kentucky, on March 14-15 and three nights at the Harvester Performance Center in Rocky Mount, Virginia, on March 28-30. Following the run, Blackberry Smoke will play amphitheaters this summer with Tedeschi Trucks Band on the Wheels of Soul Tour.

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“LET ME DOWN EASY” This standout from the band’s latest album, Find A Light, features Charlie Starr sharing vocals with special guest Amanda Shires.

Despite the sweet country-tinged melody, the song is full of longing with lyrics about a struggle to let go of an old love.

“YOU GOT LUCKY” Shires also helps out on Blackberry Smoke’s heartfelt take on the Tom Petty classic, found on The Southern Ground Sessions EP.

“MOTHER MOUNTAIN” Another Find A Light track worth your time, “Mother Mountain” has an optimistic message while channeling the vintage folk of Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young.

“ONE HORSE TOWN” A fan favorite from the 2012 album The Whippoorwill, this twangy, windowsdown anthem deals with small-town dreaming and generational ties that can feel more confining than comforting.

“LET IT BURN” A perfect song for Skynyrd fans, this distortion-hued cruiser from Like An Arrow moves along at a steady clip with classic Dixie rock grit.

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The Spring 2019 Issue | GREAT ESCAPE

CORNWALLIS’ CAVE Y T H E S M A L L CAV E W I T H T H E IRON BARS COVERING THE E N T R A N C E WAY I S K N O W N AS C O R N WA L L I S ’ C AV E . I T I S S I T UAT E D B E LO W T H E TO W N AND OVERLOOKS THE YORK R I V E R . / P H O T O B Y C H I L E S T. A . L A R S O N

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

orktown and its famous battlefield is the site where British General Lord Charles Cornwallis surrendered to General George Washington and his force of 17,000 Continental and French troops some 238 years ago—a siege that brought an end to the American Revolution. Cornwallis’ Cave, a significant natural landmark in this historic turning point, is a cavern full of legend overlooking the York River beachfront that still exists in Historic Yorktown today.

According to the National Park Service, the cave was created by stone quarrying for building structures in the area. This “grotto” was once believed to be the hiding place of the British general during the bombardments of the Revolutionary War battle. Other research suggests it was used for storing potatoes during the Colonial era and Confederate guns and ammunition during the American Civil War. Questions linking Cornwallis to the cave remain something of a mystery.

The Battle of Yorktown became more of an engineering and artillery campaign than an infantry effort.

After allied artillery weakened British defense positions, 1,500 men dug parallel trenches designed by French engineers. These siege lines were spread beyond the

YORKTOWN’S OWN LEGENDARY CAVERN RICH IN HISTORY range of British cannon and ran deep enough to allow troops to maneuver unscathed. The trenches ended near two enemy redoubts, which were enclosed defensive positions situated outside the main fortified lines.

After dark on October 14, 1781, well into the 10day siege, allied forces captured redoubts nine and 10, which were located near the river. This gave the allies the opportunity to place cannon, howitzers and mortars close to British lines for thorough and strategic bombardments.

Washington was given the honor of firing the first shot, which reputably crashed into British headquarters in the Nelson House, where staff officers were dining.

The round presumably killed Commissary General Perkins and wounded three others.

Johann Conrad Doehla, a Hessian soldier with the British army, wrote in his diary, “One could not avoid the horribly many cannon balls, either inside or outside the city. Many men were badly injured or mortally wounded by fragments of the bombs, which exploded partly in the air, and partly on the ground, their arms and legs severed or themselves struck dead…I saw bombs fall onto the water and lie there for 5, 6, 8 and more minutes and then explode.”

Another report said a shot from the American battery decapitated a Major Cochrane as he stood beside General Cornwallis. The account of his Lordship coming so close to being hit stirred him “to duck under a cliff for protection.”

Rumors circulated that the trapped Cornwallis, unable to escape, still held out hope that reinforcements would soon arrive from New York. He waited for this news from his own private bunker scooped out from a hillside space that formed, “a kind of grotto…where he lives under ground.”

Logic—as well as evidence—from an information sheet relating to the battle points out that a general, in command of troops during battle, would have a number of subordinate officers constantly coming and going with reports for his ultimate decision making. A general would need to closely follow operations without seeking protection from heavy shelling away from the action. Cornwallis understood the risks of war, as did his men. Troops would become disheartened to discover that their leader took shelter in a cave, far from the dangers they were facing under siege. It would be difficult for any army to fight courageously with that type of example.

With brick walls almost two feet thick, the Nelson House provided adequate protection from enemy fire while serving as British headquarters during the siege. A cannon ball is still lodged on the east side of the house from the intense artillery shelling, demonstrating the fortitude of the mansion.

BY CHILES T.A. LARSON

The British waived a white flag after the first heavy bombardment. Once they abandoned their headquarters, Cornwallis returned an elderly gentleman to the Continental Army. Washington watched as the old man limped towards him assisted by two soldiers, followed by a servant carrying a bundle of family silver.

The old man was the uncle of Virginia Governor Thomas Nelson, a patriot with the American and French forces.

On the morning of October 16, more allied guns were in position and the bombardment intensified. In desperation, under the cover of darkness, Cornwallis attempted to evacuate his troops across the York River to Gloucester Point. After transporting a few men across, however, a heavy squall struck that ended the operation.

The next morning, a drummer boy appeared on a parapet followed by an officer with a white handkerchief and the bombardment stopped. After a parley, the principals met at the Moore House, east of the battlefield, to work out the terms for surrender.

The articles of capitulation were signed on October 19. Cornwallis was nowhere to be seen when the opposing armies faced one another.

He pleaded illness and took to his bed, turning these humiliating duties over to Brigadier General Charles O’Hara, his second in command.

At first, O’Hara could not give his sword away; no one seemed to want it. He presented it to the French commander, Jean-Baptiste Donation de Vimeur, Comte de Rochambeau. Shaking his head, the commander pointed to Washington. The American general also refused the sword; he had his second in command, Brigadier General Benjamin Lincoln, who had

(ABOVE) THE NELSON HOUSE WAS THE HOME OF GOVERNOR THOMAS NELSON J R . , W H O S I G N E D T H E D E C L A R AT I O N O F INDEPENDENCE. CANNON BALLS FIRED DURING THE SIEGE ARE STILL LODGED IN THE E X T E R I O R W A L L S T O D AY. / P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F T H E N AT I O N A L PA R K S E R V I C E (CENTER) LIEUTENANT GENERAL C H A R L E S C O R N WA L L I S / A RT I ST: T H O M AS G A I N E S B O R O U G H , N AT I O N A L P O R T R A I T GALLERY – LONDON, ENGLAND

surrendered to the British at Charlestown, accept the sword.

There was a custom at the time that allowed the defeated army to march with drums beating and flags flying. After surrendering at Charlestown, the American troops were denied these honors of war. Recalling this insult, Washington said, “The same Honors will be granted to the Surrendering Army as were granted to the Garrison of Charles Town.”

Approximately 8,500 British soldiers laid down their arms before the American and French armies. The British band, with a degree of irony, was permitted to play a popular tune of the day, “The World Turned Upside Down.”

Did General Cornwallis seek refuge in a cave along the banks of the York River? That remains a mystery.

It may be wiser to wonder if the British general was truthful in declaring illness at the time of his surrender.

Perhaps his Lordship was reluctant to face the music.

Just like the cave bearing his name, we may never know the real story.

Chiles T. A. Larson is a writer and photojournalist. He is the author of Virginia’s Past Today and Barboursville Vineyards: Crafting Great Wines Inspired by Spirits from the Past.

SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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The Spring 2019 Issue | RAISE A GLASS

A TRUE AMERICAN SPIRIT A MOONSHINE EXPERIENCE IN VIRGINIA’S MOONSHINE COUNTRY

BY ERIC KALLEN

I DIDN’T VISIT PRIMLAND TO GO JOYRIDING WITH A GUIDE ON ONE OF ITS RECREATIONAL,

all-terrain vehicles. The purpose of my visit was to drink a true American spirit, moonshine. I admit I knew next to nothing about moonshine before arriving in Meadows of Dan, and my education didn’t begin in the bar as I had expected. It began at the resort’s Outdoor Center, where I was directed by my guide, Carl McDaniel, to put on a helmet and face mask, and strap myself into a four-wheel-drive ATV. My plan was to experience moonshine, but I guess I was along for the ride.

We cruised along trails that were specially created for guided off-roading. As McDaniel navigated the dense, near-impenetrable forest that makes up much of Primland’s 12,000 acres, I reflected on the heritage of the region. My sportsman’s eye noted harsh ground and dense foliage that form an ideal habitat for turkey, deer and bear. I observed an abundance of wildlife but was oblivious to the signs of human existence—stonewall ruins, foundations that remained from old homes and roads—until McDaniel pointed them out as he gave me an overview of the land and its history. I enjoyed our conversation and the panoramic views. I enjoyed learning more.

THE AUDUBON-CERTIFIED HIGHLAND C O U R S E AT P R I M L A N D S H O W C A S E S T H E R E S O R T ’ S B R E AT H TA K I N G M O U N TA I N O U S VIEWS. / PHOTO COURTESY OF PRIMLAND

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

Taking it all in, I could only imagine the harsh living conditions encountered by early inhabitants, the English, German and Scotch-Irish who lived hard in these mountains. As if he read my thoughts, my guide assured me my imagination was spot on.

“For many in these parts, making moonshine was an economic necessity,” said McDaniel. “The abundance of clean water, cheap corn and rugged topography was a perfect combination for bootlegging and hiding stills from the authorities. That’s why this region and nearby Franklin County became known as the ‘Moonshine Capital of the World.’”

Riding through this remote wilderness, I didn’t have any difficulty envisioning copper stills tucked into the hills and hollows in the surrounding mountains, away from the prying eyes of the revenue agents trying to regulate and tax the production of spirits.

After a quick round of shooting sporting clays on Primland’s worldrenowned sporting-clay course, McDaniel and I said our goodbyes.

My education continued in the main lodge, but the ride wasn’t over. Santana Lawson, Primland’s head mixologist, was my instructor for this leg of the trip. A native of nearby Mount Airy, North Carolina, Lawson has been a mixologist at Primland for nearly a decade and uses her imagination and passion for moonshine to create unique and tasty cocktails featuring the high-proof, traditionally local spirit.

“Moonshine has been in these parts for a very long time,” Lawson said. “Both my grandfather and great-uncle were moonshiners, so I guess it’s in my blood.”

Sitting at the bar, I glanced over her shoulder and studied a broad variety of moonshine bottles carefully arranged on the shelves, waiting for their call to action.

“For our signature cocktails, we exclusively use a brand of moonshine called Midnight Moon,” she continued. “It’s produced by Piedmont Distillers out of Madison, North Carolina.”

Piedmont Distillers was founded in 2005 by Joe Michalek, a tobacco marketing executive from New York. Michalek developed a strong affinity for moonshine on his

“For many in these parts, making moonshine was an economic necessity,” said McDaniel. “The abundance of clean water, cheap corn and rugged topography was a perfect combination for bootlegging and hiding stills from the authorities.”

T H E B A C K PAT I O O F PRIMLAND RESORT’S MAIN LODGE / PHOTO COURTESY OF PRIMLAND SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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T H E B AT T L E B E T W E E N M O O N S H I N E R S A N D T H E AU T H O R I T I E S H A S D E E P R O OT S I N V I R G I N I A . ( I N S E T ) N A S C A R L E G E N D J U N I O R J O H N S O N WA S O N C E C O N V I C T E D O F O P E R AT I N G A N I L L E G A L S T I L L .

P R E S I D E N T R O N A L D R E A G A N PA R D O N E D H I M I N 1 9 8 5 . / P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F P I E D M O N T D I S T I L L E R S

numerous trips to North Carolina and used his professional background to help create a premium market for legal moonshine.

“The ritual around moonshine is something else,” said Michalek. “There’s a lot of emotion. It’s illicit and hard to get. Midnight Moon is different from other moonshines because it marries modern distilling technology with the authentic traditions of prior generations. We view moonshine as following tradition and history, and taking the time to put it all together.”

Midnight Moon’s front man is Junior Johnson, a NASCAR legend credited with being the first driver to use the drafting technique that helped him win the 1960 Daytona 500.

Johnson’s father was a lifelong bootlegger who spent nearly 20 of his 63 years in prison for illicit moonshine activities. His son’s passion for driving and claim that he was “too young to drive, but too good not to,” made him a natural to carry on with his family’s business. Johnson spent one year in prison in 1956 for having an illegal still, but he was never caught transporting bootleg liquor.

According to Lawson, the process for making moonshine is relatively straightforward, which attracted early bootleggers. Moonshiners first grind corn into meal and then soak the meal in hot water. Although other grains can be used to ferment alcohol, moonshiners prefer corn because of its high sugar content, low cost and

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

We’re elegant AND rugged, and everything in between.

Come explore Patrick County, Virginia. Picnics at a covered bridge or along the Blue Ridge Parkway, canoe rides, traditional mountain music, artisan studios, local wineries, bed and breakfasts, camping, hiking, mountain biking, and fishing are just a few of the attractions awaiting you. From the rugged outdoors to 5-star luxury, there is so much to discover in Patrick County. www.visitpatrickcounty.org

Anymore authentic and it would be illegal.

Midnight Moon Apple Pie 750ml 70 Proof or 35% ABV/VOL. ŠPiedmont Distillers, Inc. Madison, NC. Please enjoy responsibly.

SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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UPSCALE DINING OPTIONS ABOUND AT P R I M L A N D.

abundance in the region.

Moonshiners then add malt to the mix, followed by yeast, which begins fermentation.

They heat the mixture, called “mash,” to 172 degrees and alcohol begins to evaporate.

It is then forced through coiled copper pipes and ends up in a barrel or jug where it condenses. The resulting moonshine is mostly clear, odorless and tasteless; it ranges from 80 to 100 proof. Unlike whiskey and bourbon, moonshine does not undergo aging and is ready for consumption.

We’ve all heard stories about moonshine causing blindness. They largely date back to Prohibition, when unlawful distilling was producing large quantities of alcohol with little thought to safety or quality. In some instances, lye was added to the product to speed fermentation. Times have clearly changed.

As I sat on my barstool at Primland’s 19th Pub, surrounded by craft beers and singlemalt scotches, I couldn’t help but wonder how moonshine has risen to such prominence at this five-star resort. Lawson encouraged me to withhold judgment until I had a chance to truly experience moonshine and its many facets.

“Moonshine is very versatile and can be used in a number of different ways,” she assured me. “It can be sipped straight, either as an aperitif or for dessert, or it can be used as a basis for one of the many moonshine cocktails that we make here at Primland.”

In addition to the unflavored moonshine (both in 80 and 100 proof), Midnight Moon offers a variety of flavored moonshines, including strawberry, cranberry, blueberry and the flavor that I fell in love with, apple pie. These flavored versions come with a deep hue and a smooth, fruity taste, perfect for sipping or mixing. The menu of moonshine cocktails at Primland is constantly evolving. The resort offers signature cocktails, as well as seasonal and holiday concoctions. The drinks are comprised of creative ingredient combinations and handmade mixers. I assure you there is a moonshine offering here for everyone “I love to bring flavors together. Moonshine offers tremendous flexibility and versatility,” Lawson said.

I nodded in agreement and worked my way through the range of beverages she set in front of me. I am delighted to report her moonshine cocktails tasted as authentic as the region they were made in. I felt like an outlaw in the now-civilized Moonshine Capital of the World. My host inquired if I cared for another, and I replied with a please and a thank you.

Eric Kallen is an avid sportsman who spends his time in Charlottesville, Virginia, the mountains of western North Carolina and the shores of Mobile Bay, Alabama.

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The Spring 2019 Issue | FROM THE FIELD

THE MAN O’ WAR PROJECT A GROUNDBREAKING STUDY ON EQUINEASSISTED THERAPY | RETIRED RACEHORSES HELP VETERANS WITH PTSD LEAD HEALTHY, PRODUCTIVE AND MEANINGFUL LIVES

HUMANS WAR. IT’S ALWAYS BEEN THAT WAY. ARMIES KILL, INJURE AND TRAUMATIZE. MANY WHO SURVIVE THE VIOLENCE OFTEN ENCOUNTER BATTLES OF A DIFFERENT NATURE WHEN THEY RETURN HOME.

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

STORY BY JOE SHIELDS PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE MAN O’ WAR PROJECT

According to the Department of Veterans Affairs, post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) affects as many as 30 percent of veterans. Nightmares and flashbacks, situation avoidance, negative thoughts and hypervigilance can contribute to debilitating anxiety, depression, isolation and substance abuse. Twenty veterans commit suicide each day, comprising 18 percent of all U.S. suicides.

Current treatments for PTSD, including cognitive behavioral therapy and exposure therapy, have high dropout rates and limited effectiveness. Pharmacotherapy is another option, but studies suggest that medications may alleviate symptoms in only 20 to 30 percent of patients.

Scientists are recognizing that relationships between humans and horses can achieve a transformative quality for mutual benefit. Perhaps Winston Churchill said it best: “There is something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of a man.” This sentiment helps explain the rise of equine-assisted therapy (EAT) programs for patients with a broad range of mental disorders.

Like war, horse racing is ancient. Top-performing racehorses achieve glory; they attract breeders and find early retirements on stud farms. The vast majority of racehorses, however, go on to compete in lower-tier races until their bodies fail. For them, life after the racetrack is uncertain. EAT programs may offer a solution.

Anecdotal evidence suggests that EAT benefits those with PTSD, but its efficacy has not been established and the mechanism of action is still unknown. Further, there has been no standard protocol for implementing EAT—specifically how it should be delivered, at what frequency and by whom. Some programs focus on riding, while others use “ground work” with horses. There are also programs that use individual or group treatment.

Named after Man O’ War, one of the greatest racehorses of all time, the Man O’ War Project is a groundbreaking study by faculty and researchers from the department of psychiatry at the Columbia University Irving Medical Center, in partnership with the Earle I. Mack Foundation. The team has developed and is now testing a standardized method for delivering EAT therapy as an on-the-ground, non-riding, group treatment program for military veterans with PTSD. The treatment—called EAT-PTSD—was designed to address hallmark symptoms of the disorder that have a significant impact on daily functioning.

The project is the brainchild of the Honorable Earle I. Mack, the former U.S. ambassador to Finland. A veteran and

horseman, Mack has long been a proponent of EATPTSD, a leader in horse racing and a strong advocate for thoroughbred aftercare.

“I am very passionate about two things: our veterans, who have given their lives to protect America, and racehorses, which deserve meaningful lives after the racetrack,” said Mack. “We owe veterans a tremendous debt of thanks, and horses have been a passion of mine for more than 50 years. It was very easy to put veterans and horses together because they have many things in common. If we can validate equine-assisted therapy, it will be the first real EAT-PTSD treatment that’s proven by peer review.”

In 2015, Mack solicited Columbia to help design and complete the study. Since then, his foundation has provided $1.2 million to seed the initial phase and has committed additional funds to complete the research.

The study is being conducted at the Bergen County Equestrian Center in Leonia, New Jersey. The principal investigators are Dr. Prudence Fisher, associate professor of clinical psychiatric social work at Columbia and research scientist at the New York State Psychiatric Institute, and Dr. Yuval Neria, Columbia’s professor of medical psychology and director of trauma and

PTSD at the New York State Psychiatric Institute. Both researchers were drawn to the project because they believe other treatments for PTSD are needed. At one point, horses were also a part of their personal lives.

“Unlike dogs, who grant love unconditionally, relationships with horses must be earned and trust must be established before they welcome you into their world,” said Fisher. “Before this project, I don’t believe either of us had thought about horses in the therapeutic sense, but they are fascinating. Horses have eyes on the sides of their heads for a reason. They’re prey animals and naturally vigilant, and hypervigilance is common among veterans with PTSD. Horses constantly look for danger and are aware of their environment. The same is true for soldiers who have experienced combat. This presents an opportunity for veterans to recognize and understand fear responses as well as re-learn how to build trust and how to trust themselves again.”

Unlike other evidence-based treatments, EAT-PTSD focuses on symptoms instead of trauma. By interacting with horses, veterans learn to better recognize their emotions and interact more effectively with others. They also learn to think critically, which helps them control their emotions.

“Horses constantly look for danger and are aware of their environment. The same is true for soldiers who have experienced combat.”

FIRST-EVER CLINICAL RESEARCH ON EQUINE-ASSISTED THERAPY (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) C O LU M B I A R E S E A R C H E R S D R . Y U VA L NERIA AND DR. PRUDENCE FISHER ARE THE MAN O’ WAR PROJECT’S P R I N C I PA L I N V E S T I G AT O R S .

THE RESEARCH TEAM IS OPTIMISTIC T H AT E AT- P T S D I S A S A F E A N D E F F E C T I V E T R E AT M E N T F O R VETERANS WITH PTSD. THE BERGEN COUNTY EQUESTRIAN CENTER IN NEW JERSEY

SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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THE MAN O’ WAR PROJECT IS THE BRAINCHILD OF THE HONORABLE EARLE I. MACK.

“Horses are sensitive to verbal and nonverbal of the armed posts in the Suez Canal. My company and cues, which enables them to provide good feedback battalion were directly hit. I was able to survive a number to veterans about how they’re communicating,” Fisher of explosions and was appointed company commander. said. “Horses are herd animals and social creatures that On the 12th day of the war, I was severely injured and look for relationships. They exist ‘in the moment’ and evacuated to a hospital in the center of Israel. Most of are forgiving—they don’t hold grudges. Plus, they’re my friends and fellow soldiers who I fought with died, big, which may initially scare some study participants, were injured or captured.” but their size makes them good mirrors for veterans, so Recovering from his injuries, Neria was able to focus they can learn from their reactions. Horses are patient on a number of processes while trying to understand and don’t judge, which helps veterans learn from their the emotional wounds of war. Fortunately, the war did mistakes.” not cost him his scientific intellect. He Born in Israel, Neria was recruited learned to understand trauma and “There is something after the September 11 attacks to bring PTSD. his expertise and training in trauma“One thing I learned as a veteran about the outside of a related mental-health problems to and from my research work with horse that is good for Columbia’s research community. Since PTSD, is that a soldier is a soldier, the inside of a man.” then, he has led and collaborated on regardless of geography, culture and — W I N S T O N C H U R C H I L L— numerous epidemiological, clinical and country,” he said. “The memories are neuro-imaging studies on PTSD. still fresh and never leave you. When “The idea that horses can be psychologically I look back, I feel so lucky to have survived physically beneficial was not foreign to me, but I never conducted and mentally. What enabled me to do so was accepting research on the topic,” he said. “These wonderful the trauma and not running away from it or trying to creatures came out of the wilderness willing to silence it. I was fortunate to publish a war novel based be trained and are great partners for humans. I’ve on my experience, but other veterans, especially here in witnessed a great change in America. I feel humans are America, are not so blessed.” more aware of the moral depth that must be recognized The first phase of the project is complete; the team in horses. People are paying homage to the animals that produced a training video and will publish a studyhave served them well, both on and off the track.” protocol manual that can be replicated. The goal of the Neria fought in the Yom Kippur War and was second phase is to test the therapy for effectiveness awarded the Medal of Valor, Israel’s highest military by treating at least 60 veterans and publish results in a decoration. He also fought in the 1982 Lebanon War. leading medical journal. According to Neria, 17 groups “The Yom Kippur War was one of the worst attacks have already completed therapy; only one group in the history of the conflict between Israel and the Arab remains in treatment, making 18 groups total. nations,” Neria said. “I was a young lieutenant on one The team is using magnetic resonance imaging 24

THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

(MRI) to visualize the impact of EAT-PTSD on veterans.

It is the only EAT program in the United States that uses neuro-imaging. MRI scans provide an objective measure to further validate and strengthen the clinical data.

This approach moves well beyond patient feedback by measuring structural cerebral changes and biomarkers.

The use of MRI will help with grant-funding efforts for larger-scale studies.

“I believe veterans are underserved and oftentimes misunderstood in the situations they find themselves in when they return home from war,” said Anne D. W. Poulson, a strategic advisor to the Man O’ War Project at Columbia University. “We still don’t have the best means of helping them assimilate back into society. Our therapy lets them create trust with the horse, learn behaviors and bring their progress home to family, friends and work.”

Like the study’s principal investigators, Poulson is no stranger to horses. She owns a horse farm in Orange, Virginia. Neria and his family will soon have a horse farm of their own in upstate New York. He credits the study with his family’s decision.

“Even for us, the scientific team, conducting the study and watching veterans with horses changed me and others,” Neria said. “It made me happy, so much so that I want horses back in my personal life again. There is a warmth, a positivity to horses that helps everyone.”

Visit mowproject.org for more information.

Joe Shields is the editor of The Virginia Sportsman.

He is a writer and marketing executive based in Charlottesville, Virginia. His writing and photography have appeared in The Virginia Sportsman and other publications. Whether fly fishing or surfing, he loves the outdoors and celebrates sporting life and culture in his narratives.

Delive “Hi there, old friends,”

I whispered into the pin-pricked black night as if it made a difference that I said it out loud rather than just thought it — absurd, of course, as they were light years away. “It has been a while since I have seen you.”

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

ery

STORY BY DAVID SARTWELL PHOTOS BY MARY GAYLE SARTWELL

S U N R I S E I N B E A U F O R T, N O R T H C A R O L I N A

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T

hey feel comfortable to me—familiar, predictable. Aries, Perseus, Andromeda, Cygnus, Sculptor and Tucana hadn’t moved in all this time as if waiting for my return and I realized it was my fault. On the sea, at night, alone, on watch, finding and steering by a distant star, covering the too-harsh light of the binnacle to reveal the brilliance above. Sky travelers, my friends and I, coming from a place unknown to an end unfathomable.

I love being on deck alone at night. The crew sleeps below. All that is left is the boat, the sea, the night sky and me. The big sailboat, Ragnar, finds its own rhythm. The steady wind from the west, interrupted by the 75-foot mast, main and genoa, sliding through the slot and driving us along at about 7.5 knots, the tell-tales attesting to the perfect set. The light sea giving us a bit of a hobby-horse motion, the boat rising up every several waves on a roller a bit above the others producing a rushing, gurgling sound as it slides along the boat, and then that shhhhhhhhhh whisper as it settles back down into the black. The little curls of turbulence on the surface aft the stern as the sea gathers back together from the cutting of the bow and keel, soon resuming its way, undisturbed, toward the coast, to slide up on some sandy beach pushing little grains of time ahead of it.

It doesn’t care. Perhaps it is in that predictable uncaring I find solace. No demands, no seemingly illogical changes, no hate or love ... just being. To stay alive on the surface of this moving energy, I have to be alert. It doesn’t care whether I exist. In the cosmic order, I am inconsequential. I am the center of my universe but not the center of the universe.

November is the best time to ferry boats south from the north to their winter quarters. It is still cold and rainy many days in Virginia and Maryland but in south Florida the hot tropical sun warms the air into the high 80s. The bodies are

THE LITTLE CURLS OF TURBULENCE ON THE SURFACE AFT THE STERN AS THE SEA GATHERS BACK TOGETHER FROM THE CUTTING OF THE BOW AND KEEL, SOON RESUMING ITS WAY, UNDISTURBED, TOWARD THE COAST, TO SLIDE UP ON SOME SANDY BEACH PUSHING LITTLE GRAINS OF TIME AHEAD OF IT.

DESIGNED BY PHILLIPE BRAND FOR JEANNEAU, THE 50-FOOT RAGNAR HAS A 7 5 - F O O T M A S T A N D I S A M A S T E R P I E C E O F M O D E R N T E C H N O L O G Y.

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

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tan, the sand is hot and the westerly breezes fill the sails with warm and steady winds.

The 50-foot Ragnar, owned by Scott George of McLean, Va., is a masterpiece of modern technology.

Designed by Philippe Brand for Jeanneau, it has a 75-foot mast, a six-foot keel, 60.9-square-meter main, a 52.7-square-meter genoa, a beam of 15.6 feet and a diesel engine with a 62-gallon fuel tank. It takes heavy seas well, sails along sprightly and, when trimmed correctly, lays down a beautiful track. It is wonderfully appointed down below with every creature comfort imaginable. Different from the old days, but I must admit ... it’s better.

The captain’s license, earned so many years ago, gives me a ticket that has brought me many places. Just appearing to know what you are doing is enough in a world that lacks so much practical knowledge.

I remember the racing days when I stared at the little telltales on the jib and main for hours on end, trying to coax another tenth of a knot out of my charge, my neck cricked so long that it was hard to turn my head.

Spinnakers billowing out ahead, painting the sky with color, rocking on a following breeze, gossamer sheets clipped to the clews of a delicate, Doug Shore-built wonder.

Italian counts with their little white racing gloves and their warm ladies not having a clue what the crew was doing but enjoying it all the same. Myers Rum tents on green Bermuda lawns, dusty silver trophies so hard fought for now just taking up space, and the racing machine I spent so many hours guiding a scrap heap somewhere on the shore of one of the Great Lakes.

Now we just set the sails, engage the autopilot, relax, and tend the electronics. Want to come up a few degrees? Push the little black button. Have to bring in the jib a bit? Wind the sheet on the electric winch and hit the slow-turn side of the panel.

Through the night the big boat slid on down the

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

Chesapeake Bay with the weather slowly deteriorating.

Tony, Doug, Sean and I were all seasoned veterans and were ready to handle heavy weather, but the computer was giving up information that made it look like we were in for a long and heavy blow.

“The big high in the Midwest is sinking further south than expected and the low coming in from the southeast is jamming in closer to shore than we thought,” observed Tony. “The collision of the two fronts is going to make up some interesting weather. What was predicted as 12-14 knots off our starboard beam is going to turn into nastiness on our nose. We had better fuel up before it hits.”

The wind went quiet and the night took on a grayness like it often does before a big blow. At around two in the morning we pulled into Cobb Marina in Little

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Creek, Virginia located just down river from Norfolk.

There were a lot of other boats at the docks getting ready to run south as well. When the fuel dock opened at 8 a.m., we sloshed in 28 gallons and were away 15 minutes later.

Although we knew the weather was closing in, right at this moment the wind was only about 5 knots on our bow. With the big diesel purring steadily under our feet, we cleared the harbor and headed south. It was not long before we felt the temperature drop as the fronts were about to collide.

In a matter of two hours the wind built to 30 knots and lifted to the south-southeast. The temperature dropped into the low 30s and it began to rain. Gentle at first, slowly building into a downpour. Ominous thunderheads rolled over us like raucous battalions of warring armies. The edges of the clouds looked burnt from the fury of the bolts of lightning smashing into the inky ocean that surrounded us. Thunder drummed the fragile membrane of the sky.

The bow of the 50-foot Jeanneau dove down into a black hole in the ocean, piercing the bottom of a ten-foot, white-capped wave. Ragnar shuddered at the collision and then valiantly struggled up and forward as the grey water washed over the deck, parted at the mast and then streamed off the stern.

Sean, bundled up in two layers of thermal underwear, a sweater, foul weather gear, watch cap, and mittens clung to the wheel like the captain portrayed by statue in the Gloucester Harbor. We both had our lifejackets clipped into the line we had run around the center console. I held fast to the rails with my feet braced against deck. My own body was protected by similar layers of underwear and my Grunden Dark and Stormy rain gear.

Our four-hour shift was going to be three hours too long! Every time the big boat slammed into a wave, the transmitted energy from it shocked us to the bone. My back and legs were sore from the bashing. Sean tried to ease the boat up the waves and slide around the curls, but for Tony and Doug trying to sleep below, the rocking and rolling made it almost impossible to relax.

Hour after hour we drove south. Annapolis was far behind and Charleston was too far ahead. Making about 5 knots over the sea, it was going to be a long, hard run.

Delivery sailing sounds like fun until you are forced to run through a sustained storm. That edge where the two systems were colliding squeezed everything together, resulting in 30-knot winds gusting to 35 and, at times, a hard, pelting, cold rain that just pounded the surface of the boat.

I looked over at Sean as he battled a particularly big wave and hollered. “Are we having fun yet?�

He grinned back and would have given me the finger if he could have let go of the wheel.

After about 20 hours of this beating we pulled into Gulfport, North Carolina. Looking like drowned rats, we THE AUTHOR CHECKING THE FOREDECK AS RAGNAR ROUNDED SOUTHERN FLORIDA A N D H E A D E D W E S T.

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

tied the big war horse to the dock, cleaned up the gear and headed for the nearest hot shower. Although the rain had stopped, it was still cold and the wind howled across the bay. It was the day before Thanksgiving.

We caught a taxi to Charleston and each of us flew in a different direction to be home for the holidays. We reconvened three days later, all refreshed and ready to continue the journey. Scott flew in to join us. Charleston, Fort Lauderdale and around the corner. The big boat just slid along in a steady brisk westerly, the sails pulling us along at around eight knots. No drama, just hour after hour of steady movement as the temperature slowly rose and layers of clothes disappeared below. No boots and rain gear. Each watch allowed a steady lessening of gear.

Soon it was just shorts, river driver shirts and boat shoes.

At Key West we docked the boat, and the boys

hopped a plane back to Washington to work while I cleaned up and tended to the little chores that always need to be done. The owner will fly down in a few days, but until then I have the boat to myself. Tonight I think I will prepare conch soup, blackened fresh grouper, a warm tasty flan, accompanied by a chardonnay chilled to 55 degrees. I will sit on the gently rocking deck and watch as the fiery sun eases down into the western horizon. Delivery complete.

Dr. David and Mary Gayle Sartwell are an awardwinning writing and photography team who have published thousands of articles in both newspapers and magazines. They are outdoor people specializing in adventure travel. Both love travel, bridge, good food and wine, fly fishing and outdoor adventure of any kind.

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

Teal Time in Argentina

TEAL TIME

STORY BY DAVID SARTWELL PHOTOS BY MARY GAYLE SARTWELL THE SOUNDS OF THE BLACK, STAR-STUDDED NIGHT WERE MUTED; AN

occasional duck disturbed the silence with its call. We plodded through the flooded rice fields that surrounded us, our headlamps providing some flickering light as the mud tried to suck the boots from our feet. With a mesh net full of decoys swinging to-and-fro on my back, my shotgun held in the crook of my elbow, and the camera bag strapped to my chest, each step over uncertain ground was an adventure in balance.

SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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TEAL TIME

We found a spot where the water was a little deeper, creating a tiny pool approximately 30 feet across and 18 inches deep. Miguel, our guide, brought along ten, eight-foot-long tree branches that we stuck into the soft mud to make a temporary blind in the middle of the rice shoots. Once firmly planted, I broke the very tops of the shoots, weaving them right and left to give more substance to the top of our haven.

We set a dozen decoys 40 feet in front of us and placed a battery-powered decoy four feet from the waterline on a stake. The mechanical wings flapped back and forth like the real thing. We were set.

The ebony night eased toward slate and the stars disappeared in the diffused light. The fields slowly came to life. The sun began to color the sky long before it arrived; clouds on the horizon transformed from black to a dusty rose, reflections from the coming red-hot orb. It was already t-shirt warm, unusual for this time of year in this part of the country.

A few early risers began to rocket through the sky, heading to their habitual feeding spots. We strained to see what we could hear. One set came in from behind us, no more than eight feet above the surface, whooshing overhead before we realized they were there, and then, in a nanosecond, disappearing into the dark background of the surrounding rice stalks. I turned and grinned at Miguel, silently indicating to him I could have knocked them down with the barrel of my shotgun.

We could hear but not see a half-dozen teal drop into the water just beyond our decoys. Fortunately, birds attract other birds. They chortled and burbled around, carrying on a dawn chatter only they could understand. Night gradually turned into day and we could see.

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

“The ebony night eased toward slate and the stars disappeared in the diffused light.

Life on the fields started to awaken. The sun started to color the sky long before it arrived, the clouds on the horizon turning from black to a dusty rose, reflections from the coming red-hot orb. It was already t-shirt warm, unusual for this time of year in this part of the country.�

( R I G H T ) S U C C E S S . AT T H E END OF THE MORNING, W E G AT H E R E D O U R TA K E TO BE PROCESSED FOR T H E M A R K E T. (BOTTOM) WE WAITED FOR DAWN WITH OUR F LY I N G B A T T E R Y O P E R AT E D D E C O Y.

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

TEAL TIME

Hordes of ducks flew towards us from the south. The sky filled with their numbers as they searched for breakfast. One of my companions on the trip, Don Brusca, opened the day’s first salvo from his position a quarter-mile to my right. The blast from his shotgun prompted more ducks to fly.

The sky was full of flighting birds and thousands of black ibis drifted above the marsh. Mute white swans dropped in on our decoys. Rising doves blotted he sky near the tree line to our west. Swarms of blackbirds darted back and forth, creating an intricate pattern that dazzled the eyes. Minus the swans, these birds had their own calls, filling the air with a cacophony of sound that was both deafening and wonderful. Their voices weren’t startled calls of fright; these were thousands of life forms announcing their presence.

Miguel whistled from a homemade call fashioned from the brass of a 12-guage shell and the ducks decoyed in, appearing to travel in small family groupings. Three to six would flash at us and either attempt to land or give us a look-see. We fired first at a set of cinnamon teal. I wish I could say that I took a double from that flock with my over-and-under Citori, but I can’t.

The guide stood to my right and slightly behind me. The action intensified.

I fired as the teal decoyed, pop open the barrels and watch the gun automatically eject two shells. As soon as they cleared the barrels, Miguel

TEAL TIME: THE AUTHOR (PICTURED LEFT) AND DON BRUSCA (SECOND FROM RIGHT) PRESENT THEIR BIRDS.

shoved two new shells into my gun. I snapped it shut, ready for the next arrivals. Wisely following Brusca’s advice, we put modified and improved cylinder chokes in the barrels. Passing shots were fairly close, especially in the early going.

After an hour, Brusca and I reached our limits at 30 ducks each. Several different kinds of teal were in the bag. Green-wing teal accounted for about half, but there were others, including the cinnamon, with their rusty colored bodies, rosy-billed pochard, silver, and white-ringed teal. We gathered them as birds swarmed around us.

The truck waited for us at the end of the dike, but it was a good hike out through the rice fields. We stopped at the farmhouse at the end of the road to drop off our birds, where they would be cleaned and sent to market.

Don Brusca, his brother Richard, nephew Andrew, and I were guests of Frontera Wingshooting (tfrontera@fronterawingshooting.com), which has several lodges located throughout Argentina. The lodges are high-end operations offering incredible meals, gracious accommodations and welltrained guides. We flew from Miami to Santiago, Chile, and then into Cordoba, which is northwest of Buenos Aires. Earlier in the week, we hunted dove at the La Zenaida lodge and then drove six hours northeast to San Javier to spend four days at the Veracruz operation.

We returned to the lodge for a great breakfast. After changing clothes and gear, the four of us walked to the dock and headed out into the marsh for a day of fishing for golden dorado and piranha. To call this a marsh is an

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SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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TEAL TIME

understatement. This region of Argentina is approximately one foot above water level. We traveled for miles through rushes that lined the waterway, turning through a series of openings that were a maze gone wild. The guide new exactly what he was doing, but I would have been hard-pressed to get us home.

We rounded one corner where the channel narrowed, and the water ran more swiftly. We pulled into the reeds and tossed the anchor into the 10-foothigh wall of vegetation that lined the riverbank. The boat drifted away from the bank and we worked the water with eels.

I swear, the first eel barely hit the water before it was attacked by a fish that ran deep and sideways, ripping line off the reel and bending Richard Brusca’s rod tip. The fish swam away from the boat for a hundred feet or more, then turned and came right back at the boat as the angler reeled line as fast as he could. That fish ran three more times before it fatigued. Because the water was dark and murky, we still had no idea what kind it was until Brusca cranked in his prize: a huge, golden-colored piranha, the size of which I had never seen before. We were astounded and marveled at the teeth for which the species is famous.

Now we were all excited. It was my turn and I used a long, black marabou streamer. I bent the rod to its task and sent my fly out into the current. I stripped the fly twice and a fish slammed into my offering.

This fish behaved differently than Brusca’s fish; big and heavy, it dove deep to the bottom and sulked for a moment. I worked it back towards the boat and kept a tight line. The fish made a mad-dash, first to the right, then to the left, taking line from my reel. After it tired, the fish came gently as I reeled it to the boat and discovered it was the legendary golden dorado (Salminus brasiliensis).

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

“To call this a marsh is an understatement. This region of Argentina is approximately one foot above water level. We traveled for miles through rushes that lined the waterway, turning through a series of openings that were a maze gone wild.”

The Latin name is misleading because it is neither a salmon nor related to the saltwater dorado. As I raised the net, the 24-inch, trout-like fish glistened in the sunlight like living gold. After examining my catch, I understood why the words “dourado” in Portuguese and “dorado” in Spanish are used to describe the fish; they both mean “golden” and are accurate. We spent the rest of the day catching heavy fish after heavy fish, wearing out both the equipment and the fishermen.

That night, after a supper of famous Argentine beef, copious amounts of Malbec and sweat flan, I snuggled into my bed and experienced that deep relaxation that comes from a fulfilling day. Ahead lay a couple nights of tango in Buenos Aires, but I was content drifting off into golden dreams in which yellow trout keep rising to my fly.

Dr. David and Mary Gayle Sartwell are an award-winning writing and photography team who have published thousands of articles in both newspapers and magazines. They are outdoor people specializing in adventure travel. Both love travel, bridge, good food and wine, fly fishing and outdoor adventure of any kind.

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EXPLORING THE BEST OF BEAR LAKE RESERVE STORY BY JULIE SIMMONS PHOTOS COURTESY OF BEAR LAKE RESERVE

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

D

awn enters the open window, the birds’ song wakes me from sleep. A single ray of sunlight breaks through the shutters and warms my face in the crisp mountain air. I squint, remembering I am not at home but feeling the peace that comes with home.

My toes absorb the cool rustic floors made by local craftsmen from native Carolina timber. Soon, I snuggle by the fire on the back porch and swirl coffee inside a handmade clay mug that warms my hand.

The steam from my beverage resembles the smoke rising from my view of the Great Smoky Mountains. With a smile, I turn to my golden retriever, Sophie, the only one up early with me, and say ...

“WHAT SHALL WE DO TODAY?”

ADIRONDACK CHAIRS PROVIDE THE PERFECT V I S TA A LO N G T H E SHORES OF BEAR CREEK LAKE.

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ENJOYING THE VIEW OF THE LAKE CLUB FROM O N E O F B E A R L A K E ’ S P O N TO O N B OAT S

THE LAKE CLUB’S INFINITY POOL IS FUN FOR KIDS AND OFFERS AMAZING VIEWS OF THE LAKE AND SURROUNDING PEAKS.

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

Bear Lake Reserve magically syncs families together. Children become themselves again. They hike in the woods. They catch trout and hunt for berries. They climb waterfalls and scavenge for fossils. They build forts and discover the stars. longtime resident Allyson Etheridge

Welcome to Bear Lake Reserve (BLR), a resort situated in the Blue Ridge Mountains of western North Carolina. If it sounds like it’s a bit in the middle of nowhere, well, it is—but that is perhaps one of its greatest charms.

“When you turn onto Shook Cove Road, you’re hooked,” said resident Dianne McGreevy. “The lush green meadows. The rolling hills leading up and up and up the mountain until I see the welcome of the greeter’s cottage. That’s when my chest exhales. My grip on the wheel loosens. Even my dog relaxes.

It’s a common feeling—we’re home—and we’d been holding our breath waiting to get back here.”

The Cherokee Indians, the very first inhabitants of the region, perhaps understood BLR best because they believed the land itself was alive. Not much has changed since the days of the Cherokee; the land, lake and streams are alive today in nature and spirit.

“Time doesn’t matter at BLR,” explained Chris McGreevy, as a bald eagle flew overhead, offering a glimpse of the wildlife at BLR, where bear, deer and turkey sightings are the norm. Breaking away from the clock allows adults to become children at heart and truly enjoy an immense playground with their families. The morning welcomes you with a varied roster of activities that

include boating, waterskiing, stand-up paddle boarding, hiking, fly fishing, canoeing and more. One thing is for sure: There is something for everyone and none of the fun involves a power cord or batteries.

The main attraction here is Bear Creek Lake. Whether you prefer angling, sunset-cruising in a pontoon boat or water sports, the lake and its crystal water is a favorite destination for both locals and tourists. Here, families lounge in Adirondack chairs on the beach. Pet lovers toss balls into the water to teach their puppies how to swim. Children laugh and launch themselves from a rope swing for a big splash. Teens experience their very first Jet Ski rides.”

When it’s time for lunch, we make our way to the Lake Club, a natural gathering place above the water with 14,000 square feet featuring multiple

A YOUNG WAKE SURFER WORKING ON HIS FORM

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T H E A M P H I T H E AT E R AT B E A R L A K E PROVIDES E N T E R TA I N M E N T AND IS A PERFECT G AT H E R I N G P L AC E FOR RESIDENTS AND GUESTS OF THE C O M M U N I T Y.

PEACE AND TRANQUILITY CAN BE FOUND AROUND EVERY CORNER.

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

restaurants serving cuisine and spirits indigenous to the region; the club also offers pools, hot tubs, a fitness center and private theater. On weekend nights, we enjoy themed dinners and wine tastings, comedy and magic shows and a chance to be with BLR friends who have become second family.

On special occasions, the welcoming amphitheater nestled in the valley is a great place to spread a blanket in the grass for a concert of local bluegrass music. The site also hosts a fall farmer’s market and Fourth of July fireworks. A favorite is the kids’ summer day camp with a program of hiking, games, crafts, swimming, cooking, boat rides, relay races, golf and tennis lessons, ice cream and a visit to Bear Creek Park to play in the reallife tepee and treehouse.

BLR has miles of hiking trails ranging from easy to challenging. A climb to BLR’s own Sol’s Creek Falls is one of my family’s favorites. The destination is just long enough to call it a “hike,” and the kids love to swim in its pool and feel the spray of the waterfall. On New Year’s Day, the BLR tradition is to fix a Bloody Mary and go on a hike. Remember the custom of do the thing you want to do all year on Jan. 1? It works for BLR families every single year. For the more serious hiker, the property adjoins Panthertown Valley, a popular backcountry paradise often referred to as “The Yosemite of the East.”

For anglers, the Carolina waters inside and outside BLR offer fun for all ages. Kids and parents alike love to wet a line at Mill Pond Pavilion, a timber-frame gathering cottage overlooking two stocked trout ponds in the heart of the property. Many of our fond memories are of our kids and their cousins holding trout with toothless grins. The pride of seeing them catch their first fish, then do it solo and now walk alone to try their cane pole at sunrise is unforgettable. There are some of the best trout waters the state has to offer at nearby Robinson Creek and a host of other hot spots on the Western Carolina Fly Fishing Trail. Area waters also offer terrific whitewater rafting.

BLR also offers the Nicklaus Summit Golf Course featuring a diverse collection of nine-hole courses that traverse the summit of the property, promising a unique,

The main attraction here is Bear Creek Lake. Whether you prefer angling, sunset-cruising in a pontoon boat or water sports, the lake and its crystal water is a favorite destination for both locals and tourists.

THERE’S NO BETTER WAY TO E X P LO R E B E A R CREEK LAKE THAN WITH A FRIEND ON TOP OF A PA D D L E B O A R D .

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THE LAKE IS FUN FOR PEOPLE OF ALL AGES.

one-of-a-kind experience. If you prefer to skip golfing, a ride through the cart path is a must simply for the view; it’s a premier scenic lookout for changing seasons. The course offers a driving range and putting green; adjacent to these amenities are two hard tennis courts. MatchPoint tennis and doubles legend Daniel Nestor provides multi-day retreats and programs for players of any level.

Mountain bikers and runners will appreciate the trails and stunning sights found along the 10-kilometer stretch from the Greeter’s Cottage to the Lake Club.

When the day ends, our family connects in a special way. We sit beside the back-porch fire, making s’mores, sipping wine, telling stories, catching fireflies, looking for shooting stars, playing cards and board games and reflecting on our day. These are the simple joys . . . the things we do not take time to do in our busy lives away from this mountain home.

The BLR dusk beckons me to my room. Window open, I crawl under the local craftsman’s handmade quilt. The crickets sing me to sleep, and the single beam of moonlight between the shutters warms my face with the promise of another day of wonder.

Julie Simmons lives in Amelia Island, Florida, and is a frequent contributor to Amelia Islander magazine.

Simmons specializes in writing about non-profit foundations and the important work they do, as well as outdoor adventure experiences.

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

Your new home for urban adventure.

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Rooftop concerts, weekly parties, creative programming, and exceptional cuisine are all part of the territory.

Joining also gets you outdoors with discounts on fly fishing with Albemarle Angler, among others. Stop by for a tour, make some new friends, and expand your boundaries.

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Great Lodging Destinations in the Blue Ridge!

Big Lick Retreat LAKE MOOMAW, VA

Lodge and guest houses nestled on 2,900 mountain acres with private access to Lake Moomaw and surrounded

by National Forest. Big Lick Retreat is the perfect outdoor getaway with unparalleled lake and mountain views. Fishing, canoeing, swimming, hiking, biking, boating, and horseback riding.

BIGLICKRETREAT.COM

Moon Rising will create memories that last a lifetime!

BLUEMOONRISING.ORG

Boar’s Head Resort

CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA

The official hotel of the University of Virginia, this high-end resort is located on a 573-acre country estate three miles from the University and four miles from downtown Charlottesville.

Blue Moon Rising

BOARSHEADRESORT.COM

Blue Moon Rising is the most innovative, enchanting, and environmentally friendly place to stay in Deep Creek Lake, Maryland.

It offers one of the most stunning views you will find. Perfect for every occasion, a vacation stay in one of our tiny home cabins at Blue

CAPON SPRINGS, WV

DEEP CREEK LAKE, MD

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Capon Springs & Farms Our family welcomes you to our true old-fashioned, all-inclusive mountain resort—approximately 20 minutes from I-81 near Strasburg, VA. Feast on our farm-fresh eggs and delicious baked goods prepared daily.

Rejuvenate with healing spring water that flows

THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

throughout the entire resort. Historical buildings and natural beauty abound. Golf, spa and lots of onsite recreation. 110 room capacity.

CAPONSPRINGS.NET

The Clifton Inn

CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA

The Clifton is Charlottesville’s premier boutique hotel, restaurant and wedding venue. Set on 100 acres of pristine Virginia countryside, this upscale hotel, in a whitepainted mansion, is six miles from the Jefferson Theater and seven miles from historic Michie Tavern.

THE-CLIFTON.COM

The Horse Shoe Farm

HENDERSONVILLE, NC

Offering more than 80 acres of pristine river-front farmland, a selection of individual guest homes, stables, and

event venues, The Horse Shoe Farm is a retreat unlike any other. Located in the heart of western North Carolina, minutes from Hendersonville, Asheville, and Tryon, The Horse Farm is waiting to share its magic with you.

THEHORSESHOEFARM.COM

The Inn at Gristmill Square WARM SPRINGS, VA

This boutique inn and restaurant located in the heart of the George Washington National Forest is the ideal accommodation for families, friends, small groups, business retreats, and intimate wedding parties. Enjoy a complimentary continental breakfast in-room daily with chef’s goodies, freshly squeezed juice, and deliciously hot coffee: the perfect start to a full day of enjoying all that Bath County has to offer.

Onsite amenities include an outdoor pool, select rooms with wood-burning fireplaces, gift shop, and an award-winning restaurant complete with a wine cellar from which guests can select their wine. Located just across the street, guests can enjoy facials or massages at the neighboring Warm Spirit Spa. GRISTMILLSQUARE.COM

Landmark Realty Group CASHIERS, NC

Landmark Realty Group is a boutique real estate firm founded on the Plateau in 2004. Landmark currently has four offices in North Carolina serving Cashiers, Highlands, Lake Glenville, Sapphire and Lake Toxaway. Our Landmark Vacation Rental program offers approximately 100 homes for our clients.

The Park on Main Hotel in Highlands is also a part

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of the Landmark Family.

We are coaches, mentors, hikers, fundraisers, relief workers and stewards of the lakes and land.

We sit on professional association boards, school boards and are animalrescue volunteers. We are husbands, wives, parents, neighbors and friends.

We are the brokers and staff of Landmark Real Estate Sales and Vacation Rentals.

LANDMARKRG.COM

The Omni Homestead Resort

HOT SPRINGS, VA

The iconic Omni Homestead Resort offers unparalleled charm and Southern hospitality.

Nestled in the Allegheny Mountains of Virginia, the resort features a wide array of outdoor activities such as fly fishing, horseback riding, zip lining and Segway tours

along with award-winning golf and a luxurious Spa. The top-rated Shooting Club offers trap, skeet, five-stand and sporting clays.

THEOMNIHOMESTEAD.COM.

Pilot Cove

PISGAH FOREST, NC

Pilot Cove is a premier hospitality resort for family fun and outdoor recreation tourism.

Located adjacent to the vast Pisgah National Forest and its renowned trails and trophy waters, Pilot Cove is also a short drive or bike ride from Brevard, NC, offering the perfect basecamp and your complete vacation experience.

PILOTCOVE.COM

Primland

MEADOWS OF DAN, VA

At Primland, outside is a destination unto itself.

From June through

August, lodging guests enjoy complimentary activities and clinics that are both engaging and educational, guided by a knowledgeable and expertly trained team.

You can bike, hike, horseback ride, drive RTVs, learn the basics of flying fishing or archery— every corner of our Blue Ridge Mountain resort offers something new.

PRIMLAND.COM

The Red Horse Inn LANDRUM, SC

Escape your day-to-day life and enjoy a getaway in South Carolina’s foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. If you are seeking a weekend getaway or celebrating a birthday, anniversary or wedding, you will be happily surprised by The Red Horse Inn. With six amazing rooms in the Main Inn and six cottages there

is something for everyone.

THEREDHORSEINN.COM

RiverView Inn

CHATTANOOGA, TN

Enjoy panoramic views of the Tennessee River. Sip coffee in an old-fashioned rocking chair. Relax in our heated pool.* Built in 1935, RiverView Inn is a resort-style, boutique inn nestled on Lookout Mountain, minutes from Rock City Gardens, Ruby Falls, and the Incline Railway. Convenient to hiking and biking trails, hang-gliding and more.

Continental breakfast & Wi-Fi included. *Seasonal.

STAYATRIVERVIEWINN.COM

Roanoke Boutique Hotel ROANOKE, VA

The 1890 Italianatestyle home in Roanoke’s Historic District was renovated into a small bed and breakfast, especially for people who

love Virginia’s adventure scene. Owned and operated by outdoor enthusiasts, you will be connected to Roanoke’s recreational amenities by locals who have explored them for years.

ROANOKEBOUTIQUEHOTEL.COM

Western Front Hotel ST PAUL, VA

Experience the cultural spirit and rugged landscapes of the Heart of Appalachia at the Western Front Hotel in St. Paul, Virginia. Housed in a historic building in downtown, this eclectic boutique hotel puts you within walking distance of outdoor adventure, from kayaking to hiking and mountain biking.

WESTERNFRONTHOTEL.COM

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House & Garden Tours Offered Statewide

April 27– May 4, 2019 Virginia bluebell = Mertensia Virginica

Tour proceeds fund the restoration and preservation of Virginia’s historic gardens, and grants to our state parks.

For a complete listing of tours and to purchase tickets please visit www.

vagardenweek.org

HISTORIC GARDEN WEEK IN ORANGE COUNTY CELEBRATES THE CENTENNIAL OF THE DOLLEY MADISON GARDEN CLUB, A FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE GARDEN CLUB OF VIRGINIA. FOUR HOMES, WITH LINKS TO THE EARLIEST HISTORY OF THIS BEAUTIFUL PLACE, HIGHLIGHT THE AREA’S AGRICULTURAL AND EQUESTRIAN ROOTS.

Historic Garden Week Continues to Keep Virginia Beautiful April 27 – May 4, 2019 SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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VISITORS WILL ENJOY THE MID-CENTURY NEIGHBORHOODS ALONG NEWPORT NEWS’ STRETCH OF THE JAMES RIVER ON MAY DAY.

VIRGINIA INCLUDES FOUR DIFFERENT ZONES, SO THE UNSEASONABLY WARM WEATHER THIS WINTER IS GOOD NEWS TO SOME CLUBS WHOSE GARDENS AREN’T NORMALLY AS FAR ALONG DURING THIS STATEWIDE EVENT.

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

THE WORLD-CLASS FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS CREATED BY GARDEN CLUB OF VIRGINIA MEMBERS TO DECORATE FEATURED PROPERTIES ARE A POPULAR ASPECT OF THIS BELOVED STATEWIDE TRADITION.

GLOUCESTER TOUR VISITORS WILL ENJOY SWEETGRASS, A LOW-COUNTRY STYLE HOME THAT LOOKS ACROSS THE SEVERN RIVER TO WARNER HALL, GEORGE WASHINGTON’S GREAT-GREAT-GRANDFATHER’S ESTATE.

Each spring, the Garden Club of Virginia (GCV) welcomes visitors to more than 250 of Virginia’s most beautiful gardens, homes and historic landmarks during “America’s Largest Open House.”

Historic Garden Week, an eight-day, statewide event, provides visitors a unique opportunity to see unforgettable gardens at the peak of Virginia’s springtime color, as well as beautiful homes with more 2,300 flower arrangements created by GVC members.

“Historic Garden Week is unprecedented as a fundraiser that underwrites restoration projects and supports our centennial project with state parks,” said Jean Gilpin, president of the GCV. Tour proceeds fund the restoration and preservation of more than 40 of Virginia’s historic public gardens and landscapes, a research fellowship program and a GCV Centennial project with Virginia State Parks.

The work of the GCV has broad and significant impact statewide, with 41 active restoration sites and 38 grants to Virginia’s parks in the

past four years.

“Historic Garden Week has raised millions of dollars to keep Virginia beautiful,” explained Lynn McCashin, GCV’s executive director. “The grounds of our most cherished landmarks, including Mount Vernon and Stratford Hall, have been restored with tour proceeds.”

This annual event also funds a historic landscape research fellowship program that is building a comprehensive library of Virginia’s important gardens and landscapes.

Since its inception in 1996, GCV’s event has documented 27 sites.

“Much more than a benefit, Historic Garden Week is a beloved springtime tradition —for both our members and for the nearly 26,000 people who attend,” said Stephie Broadwater, state chair 2018-2019. The only statewide house and garden tour in the nation, Historic Garden Week promotes tourism while showcasing communities across the commonwealth.

“Perhaps most importantly, this enduring legacy brings our membership together to

work towards a common goal,” Gilpin added.

“Historic Garden Week would not be possible without the hard work of our 3,300 members, countless volunteers and sponsors, and the 156 private homeowners who open their properties to the public this spring.”

Historic Garden Week’s 2019 marketing materials showcase the Virginia bluebell and Waverley Hill, the former home of Emily Smith, president of the Garden Club of Virginia from 1928 to 1930. “Designed by William Lawrence Bottomley, with gardens by the landscape architect that did the restoration at Colonial Williamsburg, Arthur Shurcliff, this gorgeous Georgian-Revival country house was completed in 1929—aptly, the year of the first Historic Garden Week,” Broadwater added.

2019 TOUR PHOTOS COURTESY OF M A N Y G E N E R O U S A N D TA L E N T E D GCV MEMBERS AND FRIENDS I N C L U D I N G D O N N A M O U LT O N , LOCKWOOD MCLAUGHLIN, SANDY GEIGER AND BECKY GILES.

SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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The Spring 2019 Issue | OUTFITTED

1

ICEMULE BOSS [1]

SPRING TRAVEL GEAR Get in gear for the season of bloom with our editor-approved selection of field-tested favorites.

BY JEDD FERRIS

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

Keep your thirst quenched on extended river trips with IceMule’s premium backpack cooler. The Boss has the capacity to hold 24 cans of your favorite libation and the insulation to keep ice solid for multiple days. Add three storage pockets and a sturdy suspension system on par with other packs its size and you’ve got a cooler that sets a new standard for adventure portability. $299.95 IceMuleCoolers.com

LEATHERMAN WAVE [2] Perfect for snipping a line or cracking a cold one, the Wave is Leatherman’s bestselling multi-tool for a reason. The 18 included tools—screwdriver, wire stripper, bottle opener and spring-action scissors,

2

among others—are easily accessed and locked. Plus, the tough hard-wire cutters are replaceable, so this will be a go-to for years to come. $99.95 | Leatherman.com

TOPO DESIGNS GLOBAL JACKET [3] Insatiable wanderlust calls for a shell that’s ready for the rigors of travel. The Global Jacket is made for those on the move, featuring durable waterproof fabric that has just the right amount of stretch. We also like the large vented side pockets that enable air flow and the included packing band that allows you to roll it up tightly when you’re short on bag space. $189 | TopoDesigns.com

4 3 mapped mesh vents for comfortable airflow during long hauls. $24.95

with a secure zipper, so you’re not constantly stressing about losing your digital leash. $64.95 | MountainKhakis.com

Smartwool.com

CALIFORNIA COWBOY HIGH WATER SHIRT [6]

SUNSKI SINGLEFINS SUNGLASSES [4] You don’t need to worry about losing an expensive pair of sunglasses when you’re traveling abroad. Sunski delivers streamlined adventure-ready shades at a price that won’t leave you scrambling for spare change. The Singlefins feature crystal-clear polarized lenses, lightweight construction and a sleek vintage look—all just right for cutting the glare when you’re gazing at another stunning vista. $58 Sunski.com

SMARTWOOL PHD OUTDOOR MEDIUM PATTERN CREW [5] Smartwool wrote the playbook on durable performance socks that won’t leave your feet drenched in sweat. Equally appreciated on a 10-hour flight or a 10-mile hike, this mediumthickness crew features a specially designed performance fit with body-

California Cowboy makes savvy, wellfitting shirts that are hand-sewn in Santa Ana. At first glance, the High Water is just a fresh take on the classic Aloha shirt, but further inspection reveals a bevy of cool features for outdoor hang time: a built-in towel, secure sunglasses loop and two unique pockets—one made to hold a bottle and another with lining to keep your phone dry. $135

HYDRO FLASK 32 OZ. WIDE MOUTH [8] Plastic is the pits and hydration is key, so do your part for the earth and yourself with Hydro Flask’s Wide Mouth water bottle. Made with prograde stainless steel, the 32-ounce size option is extremely durable, and with double-wall insulation, it will keep your liquid of choice cold for 24 hours or hot for six. The bottle’s lid features additional insulation and a rubber handle that makes extended carry easy. $39.95 | HydroFlask.com

8

7

CaliforniaCowboy.com

MOUNTAIN KHAKIS CAMBER 107 SHORT [7] For long days exploring new towns or trails, Mountain Khakis’ rugged shorts are made with tough canvas with just enough stretch for freedom of motion.

Beyond durability and a fit that’s not too snug or loose, the Camber 107 also features an exterior cell-phone pocket SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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Local Expertise, Global Reach

GALLISON HALL - Charlottesville’s premier property, located in one of the most exclusive neighborhoods. A landmark on the Virginia and National Registers. Built in 1931-33, this elegant Georgian home sits on approximately 43 acres of parkland. Complete privacy in a prime residential location, minutes to the University and downtown. Maintained with the utmost care, improvements were added to the property to include an indoor tennis/racquet ball facility and indoor pool. Three apartments & charming log cabin. The main house is designed for entertaining on a grand scale with inviting foyer, beautifully appointed formal living and dining room, wine cellar, theater room, spacious kitchen, and more. Architecturally striking details throughout. English style formal gardens. MLS 583485. $14,495,000.

SOCIAL HALL - Charlottesville’s premier Downtown residence. c. 1814.

Complete renovation by Bushman Dreyfus. Private oasis, one block from Downtown Mall. Landscaped parking court, elegant entrance and classic front porch. Three floors of living space. Grand entertaining rooms, fanciful wall paper and draperies, built in glass front cabinets, and beautifully carved wood mantle fireplaces. Quartz counters, Wolf range, and flush paneled fridge. Large master suite with windows on all sides. Master bath has marble tile, separate vanities, and deep soaking tub. Lower level has additional bedrooms, office, and walk out access. Outdoors offers a spa like setting with pool, back deck, fire pit, and covered outdoor dining space. Spacious guest house has beautifully designed bedroom, bath and kitchenette. MLS 582862. $3,995,000.

Ann Hay Hardy | 202.297.0228 | ahhardy@frankhardy.com

frankhardy.com

Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated.

Host Amy Lacey invites you to meet the passionate, empowered people and organizations who rise above challenges to make a difference in our community.

A production of

Mondays at 7:30 PM on WVPT & Thursdays at 8 PM on WCVE/WHTJ 58

THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

2019 VIRGINIA RACING CALENDAR VIRGINIA

Spring

STEEPLECHASE CIRCUIT

Sunday, April 14 12:00 noon LOUDOUN HUNT POINT-T TO-P POINT Oatlands Leesburg (703) 431-88861

Saturday, April 20 1:30 p.m.

MIDDLEBURG SPRING RACE MEET Glenwood Park Middleburg (540) 687-66545 (540) 687-66595

Sunday, April 28 1:00 p.m.

MIDDLEBURG HUNT POINT-T TO-P POINT Glenwood Park Middleburg (540) 454-22991 (540) 687-66069

Saturday, May 4 12:00 noon VIRGINIA GOLD CUP RACE MEET Great Meadow Course The Plains (540) 347-22612 www.vagoldcup.com

Saturday, October 12 1:30 p.m.

VIRGINIA FALL RACE MEET Glenwood Park Middleburg (540) 687-99797 www.vafallraces.com

Saturday, October 26 12:00 noon INTERNATIONAL GOLD CUP RACE MEET Great Meadow Course The Plains (540) 347-22612 www.vagoldcup.com

Saturday, March 16 12:30 p.m.

WARRENTON HUNT POINT-T TO-P POINT Airlie Race Course , Warrenton (540) 270-11730 HUNTER PACE April 20, 1:00 p.m.

(540) 219-66562

Saturday, March 23 1:00 p.m.

PIEDMONT FOX HOUNDS POINT-T TO- POINT Salem Course,Upperville (540) 592-77100 HUNTER PACE March 23 8:30 a.m.

(410) 790-55359

Sunday, March 31 1:00 p.m.

ORANGE COUNTY HOUNDS POINT-T TO-P POINT Locust Hill Farm, Middleburg (540) 687-55552 HUNTER PACE March 30, 9:00 a.m.

(540) 295-55141

Saturday, April 6 12:00 Noon OLD DOMINION HOUNDS POINT-T TO-P POINT Ben Venue Farm , Ben Venue (540) 636-11507, (540) 364-33995 HUNTER PACE April 7, 1:00 pm (540) 364-44573

Saturday, April 13 12:00 Noon RAPPAHANNOCK HUNT HUNTER PACE Greenwood Farm, Washington (540) 547-22810 (540) 229-77752 (612) 508-00244

Sunday, April 21 1:00 p.m.

BLUE RIDGE HUNT POINT-T TO-P POINT Woodley Farm, Berryville (540) 636-00500, (540) 974-00500 www.blueridgehunt.org HUNTER PACE March 10, 12:00 noon (540) 247-33449

Saturday, April 27 1:00 p. m.

FOXFIELD SPRING RACE MEET Foxfield Race Course Charlottesville (434) 293-99501 www.foxfieldraces.com

Saturday, April 27 10.00 a.m.

LOUDOUN FAIRFAX HUNT HUNTER PACE Rolling Meadow Farm Philomont (703) 887-22711 www.loudounfairfaxhunt.com

VIRGINIA

Fall

STEEPLECHASE CIRCUIT Saturday, November 2 12:30 p.m.

MONTPELIER RACE MEET Montpelier Montpelier Station (540) 672-00027 www.montpelierraces.com

Sunday, September 29 1:30 p.m.

FOXFIELD FALL RACE MEET Foxfield Race Course Charlottesville (434) 293-99501 www.foxfieldraces.com

For further information contact www.centralentryoffice.com.

The Spring 2019 Issue | WELL READ

SIMPLE FLY FISHING Seasoned Anglers Strip Away Complexity with Ancient Japanese Tenkara Technique

BY JOE SHIELDS

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THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

Any book with a Foreword

by Russell Chatham deserves attention.

The man celebrates the sporting life like no other in his paintings, etchings and writing. Fly fisherman and hunter, gourmet cook and wine aficionado—Chatham’s soul is in his passions and art. On fly fishing he writes, “The more complex technology is allowed to intrude upon the fundamental simplicity of fishing, the further one becomes removed from its core value.”

Chatham’s Foreword sets the tone for the revised second edition of Simple Fly Fishing: Techniques for Tenkara Rod & Reel (Patagonia, January 19, 2019, paperback), a beautiful book of 312 pages that Patagonia founder and lifelong fisherman Yvon Chouinard co-authored with fly-fishing gurus Mauro Mazzo and Craig Mathews. Equal parts “how-to” and manifesto, Simple Fly Fishing delivers a message: catch trout simply with a rod, line and fly.

Tenkara, which means “from the heavens,” is a centuries-old, no-reel method used in Japan to fly fish for trout in small mountain streams. The tenkara rod is longer than traditional fly rods, typically ranging from 11 to 15 feet in length. “You will catch fish using simple methods and knowledge, in an elegant and artful way,” writes Chouinard in the book.

Similarly, the authors chose an elegant and artful way to speak to a new generation of young anglers and a growing number of women interested in the sport. The cover alone is a work of art. Designer Dwight Hwang used the traditional Japanese Gyotaku method in which Sumi ink is brushed onto a fish, then a sheet of Washi paper is pressed onto the inked surface. Inside, Simple Fly Fishing offers remarkable artwork: photography from featured anglers and their adventures, fly designs in full color and instructional illustrations by renowned fish artist James Prosek.

In addition to a quick setup guide for a tenkara rod and personal accounts from accomplished fly fishers, the chapters in this comprehensive work provide an education on trout and their food, fly fishing with different types of flies—wet flies and streamers, nymphs and dry flies—and typical fishing situations one might encounter on streams. The authors cover knot and fly tying, and employ overviews of both tenkara rod and traditional fly-fishing gear to cover all bases.

Ultimately, Simple Fly Fishing contends that mastery is achieved through simplicity; knowledge is more valuable than high-tech fishing gear and pricey guides are not required to catch trout. This book strips away some of the complexity of the sport and openly critiques its elitist history and unnecessary expense.

Manifesto aside, the book arms anglers with plenty of information.

And as Chouinard says, “When you pick up (or go back to) a rod and reel, you will be a more complete angler.”

Available in stores and online. Visit patagonia.com for more information.

PROCEEDS FROM THE BOOK ARE BEING DONATED TO VARIOUS CONSERVATION AND ENVIRONMENTAL ORGANIZATIONS, INCLUDING 1% FOR THE PLANET, NATIVE FISH SOCIETY, ATLANTIC SALMON FEDERATION AND WORLD TROUT® INITIATIVE.

THE O’DELL CREEK GANG ON THE MOVE TO FIND FISH / P H OTO BY T I M DAV I S

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JOIN TODAY. PROTECT TOMORROW.

BTT is a membership-based

organization that works to conserve and restore bonefish, tarpon and permit fisheries and habitats through research, stewardship, education and advocacy. We are scientists, anglers, guides, manufacturers, lodge and shop owners, and outfitters who are taking action today to conserve and restore our flats fisheries for tomorrow.

Please help us in our mission by joining at: www.btt.org

Pompeii Archive: Photographs by William Wylie On view through April 21

Pompeii Archive features work by American photographer William Wylie exploring the archeological site of Pompeii in highly evocative images. Wylie’s interest in the contemporary state of Pompeii began with his discovery of the work of Giorgio Sommer (1834–1914), a German photographer who documented the excavation of the site in the mid-nineteenth century. An avid historian and collector, Wylie began collecting Sommer’s images and researching his work, particularly Sommer’s strategic use of photography to flatten the picture plane and create layered and stratified images that evoked the archeological processes. Examples of Sommer’s work are also included in the exhibition.

155 Rugby Road | 434.924.3592 uvafralinartmuseum.virginia.edu Image: William Wylie, American, b. 1957. Peristyle, House of the Colored Capitals (VII.4.31), Pompeii, 2015. Pigment Ink Print, 45 x 56 in. Courtesy of the artist. The exhibition was organized by the Gregory Allicar Museum of Art at Colorado State University. Pompeii Archive is made possible through funding from The Fralin Museum of Art Volunteer Board. The Fralin Museum of Art’s programming is made possible through generous support from The Joseph and Robert Cornell Memorial Foundation. We also wish to thank our in-kind donors: WTJU 91.1 FM and Ivy Publications LLC’s Charlottesville Welcome Book.

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The Spring 2019 Issue | OPEN SPACES

SALVATION

BY SID DOBRIN

EXCERPTED WITH PERMISSION FROM SID DOBRIN’S FISHING, GONE?: SAVING THE OCEAN THROUGH SPORTFISHING

W

e surfaced in the near-midnight dark. We had been down for about 20 minutes; the display on my wrist computer blinked 29 minutes to a depth of 82 feet. We were low on nitrox, both of us with less than 400 psi in our tanks, but everything well within safety ranges. Everything, that is, except that there in the dark, about 100 miles west of Tortugas Bank in the Gulf of Mexico, the boat we expected to be waiting for us on the surface was not there.

The boat, a 100-foot, steel-hulled live-aboard, had been chartered by our dive shop for a three-day spearfishing and underwater photography excursion to the Dry Tortugas, a trip we had made every year for the past few years. My buddy on this night dive on the second day of the outing was my friend and master dive instructor. He had been my teacher from my initial open-water certification through my professional training as a scuba instructor.

A retired recon sergeant in the U.S. Marines, Smitty had moved to Florida from Okinawa, where he had served as master dive instructor for the Marines. Smitty was one of the gunnery sergeants who reconnoitered Grenada in the first wave of Operation Urgent Fury in the U.S. invasion of Grenada in 1983. Smitty is the real-life guy depicted by Clint Eastwood in the 1986 movie Heartbreak Ridge. Smitty loves that movie. Oorah.

There on the dark surface, after a solid 10 minutes of cursing the boat captain, the boat captain’s mother and the boat captain’s offspring for his incompetence and failure to follow basic safety procedures, Smitty and I considered options. Any swimming would have to happen at the surface. Our near-empty tanks prohibited any sustained movement underwater and we needed to save whatever remained in case of an emergency—that is, an emergency atop being forgotten in the Gulf of Mexico in the pitch dark. Besides, there was really nowhere for us to swim; in any

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“THE GEOGRAPHIC MAGNITUDE OF THE OCEANS OVERWHELMS OUR CAPACITY TO BELIEVE THAT OUR ACTIONS THERE MIGHT MATTER.” —DORINDA G. DALLMEYER— INCORPORATING ENVIRONMENTAL ETHICS INTO ECOSYSTEM-BASED MANAGEMENT

direction we looked, there was just more unlit ocean.

We needed to be on the surface to watch for boat lights in the dark, and we needed to remain in relatively the samearea where the boat had deposited us earlier.

We tethered our rigs together with about ten feet of line to avoid drifting apart. We both wore black gear, mine modeled in heroic reverence to Smitty’s recon gear. In the dark, it would be easy to lose sight of one another, particularly if one of us were to doze off and stop talking. While we were at depth, I had shot a gag grouper and a nice mutton snapper, both of which dangled about six feet below me on a stringer clipped to my buoyancy compensator device (BCD). I hated to SID DOBRIN (PICTURED RIGHT) IS AN AU T H O R , AC A D E M I C A N D WAT E R M A N . H E I S P R O F E S S O R A N D C H A I R O F T H E D E PA R T M E N T O F E N G L I S H AT T H E U N I V E R S I T Y O F F LO R I DA AND IS THE CHAIR OF THE AMERICAN S P O R T F I S H I N G A S S O C I AT I O N ’ S A D V O C AC Y COMMITTEE.

do it, but there in the dark I did not want to be tethered to that much dead bait, so I dumped the fish. I assume that Smitty did the same with whatever he had on his stringer. No need to discuss it; it just made sense to do it. We kept our spearguns loaded with both bands.

We floated on our backs on our BCDs, masks on, snorkels in our mouths. Through my mask, I looked not at the water around me but at the sky, uncorrupted by city lights, illuminated in full darkness, a venerable cathedral ceiling. I labored to identify constellations and planets, overwhelmed by the numbers of visible stars. The view reminded me of a night sky from years before on a small island beach in the Aegean between Greece and Turkey, where I watched the stars from a blanket with a bottle of rum, a bag of fresh apricots, and a salmagundi of company. Those who have not seen the night sky from the open ocean have missed one of the most magnificent views on Earth. Those who have not seen the ocean below the surface zone have

also missed magnificent things. I am a stargazer and a water gazer; I love the idea of space. Outer space.

Maybe that is why I dive and fish: inner space, the depths of our planet, is as close as I can get to outer space. What was it Victor Hugo wrote? “There is one spectacle grander than the sea, that is the sky; there is one spectacle grander than the sky, that is the interior of the soul.” Floating there, in the darkness all around, with the stars above, I imagined the sensation of drifting in space—which, of course, is what I was actually doing.

The day they want a volunteer to be launched out there, I will be first in line. Ron Moe, in The Starship and the Canoe, said it best when posed the question of going into space: “I’ll go,” he said, “if you promise me there’ll be salmon there. And cutthroat trout.” I feel the same way, only I would add a few other species to the list. Me and Major Tom. For now, I will float here as debris on the surface.

Debris, of course, is a relative term. Objects wane

Restoring the native habitat 4TH ANNUAL SOUTH RIVER FLY FISHING EXPO

APRIL 27-28, 2019

CONSTITUTION PARK | DOWNTOWN WAYNESBORO, VA ON THE BANKS OF THE SOUTH RIVER

Presenters Pat Cohen, L.E. Rhodes, Chris Siess, Wes Hodges, Dave Breitmeier, Kevin Whitfield, Tommy Lawhorne, Matthew Reilly, Reed Cranford.

Vendors South River Fly Shop, Orvis, Hardy Fly Fishing, Douglas Outdoors, Moonshine Rod Co. and many more.

Features Fly tying demonstrations, on-stream presenations and casting pond.

Local BBQ & Brews Register on-line for limited enrollment Deer Hair Fly Tying class with Pat Cohen

SOUTHRIVEREXPO.ORG 64

THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

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SPRING 2019 | THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN

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“Floating there in the Gulf of Mexico, I thought about depth, the technologies we employ to explore these two different spaces, and the vessels we need, baidarkas and spaceships, and how for that moment I was fine without either.”

between being things and being debris, depending on perspective and timing. A plastic fork floating on the ocean’s surface is debris, but it was a thing with human-ascribed use-value and purpose. Even before that, it was something else with ecological value: chemicals, minerals and such. A wooden pallet floating on the water’s surface is debris, having once served a function in shipping goods after having been living wood in an ecosystem and now, as debris, it reclaims its thingness—or claims a new thingness—as it serves as cover for fish and other organisms. It becomes useful again, its value renewed for the fisher—whether human, bird, or fish—who sees it not as pallet or rubbish, butas topography that might serve as a sign of game fish or food fish beneath. Its value renewed by marine organisms that make use of the cover it provides. So, I floated there in the dark on the surface of the salty sea as debris, between the boundaries of inner and outer space.

I remembered then and again now, in writing these words, being 12 years old and finding in the local 66

THE VIRGINIA SPORTSMAN | SPRING 2019

public library a copy of Kenneth Brower’s The Starship and the Canoe.

I suppose if anyone had asked me before I found Brower’s book what my favorite book had been, I would have been as likely to respond Thor Heyerdahl’s The Kon-Tiki Expedition: By Raft across the South Seas as I would any other of a number of books I held (and hold) dear.

The written word has influenced my life as much as has saltwater, particularly the long tradition of writings about fishing and the sea, what Esquire founder Arnold Gingrich so famously titled The Fishing in Print in his examination of five centuries of angling literature. But Brower’s bookgave me something new, a synthesis between a Heyerdahllike desire for open water and a science fiction-driven fascination with interstellar travel. Brower’s fusion of exploratory possibility gave me reason to contemplate my own enchantment with staring into deep blue water and deep dark space (the whole father-son focus of the book has become of more interest to me now than it

was when I was 12). I remember George Dyson’s words in the book: “I’m an expert on this business of inner space and outer space, and how one is a manifestation of the other.” I fantasized not only about taking George Dyson’s Thoreauvian baidarka adventure through Glacier Bay and the Inside Passage, but certainly about Freeman Dyson’s theories for interstellar travel. Floating there in the Gulf of Mexico, I thought about depth, the technologies we employ to explore these two different spaces, and the vessels we need, baidarkas and spaceships, and how for that moment I was fine without either.

FISHING, GONE?: SAVING THE OCEAN THROUGH SPORTFISHING

BY SID DOBRIN COPYRIGHT © 2019 BY SID DOBRIN. EXCERPTED

BY PERMISSION OF TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY PRESS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS EXCERPT MAY BE REPRODUCED OR REPRINTED WITHOUT PERMISSION IN WRITING FROM THE PUBLISHER.

Sid Dobrin is Professor and Chair in the Department of English at the University of Florida where he also serves as Director of the Trace Innovation Initiative.

He has published sixteen books about writing, ecology, and technology, including Distance Casting: Words and Ways of the Saltwater Fishing Life. This excerpt is taken from his newest fishing book Fishing, Gone: Saving the Ocean through Sportfishing (April, 2019). His writing appears in many fishing and outdoor magazines.

He is the Chair of the American Sportfishing Association’s Advocacy Committee and is co-owner of inventivefishing.com, an online resource for recreational saltwater anglers. An addicted saltwater angler, a dive instructor and rescue diver, boat captain and (recovering) guide, Dobrin is showing signs of growing gills.

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