The Virginia Sportsman Summer 2020

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SUMMER GEAR GUIDE | SIMPLE GRILLED WHOLE FISH | MEET A THOROUGHBRED CONTENDER | COUNTRYSIDE BANJO MEMORIES

SUMMER 2020

Sailing America A WORLD-CLASS NAUTICAL PHOTOGRAPHER DOCUMENTS AMERICAN SAILING

RIVER RESTORATION AT SOUTH RIVER PRESERVE

A HUMBLING DAY OF BIRD HUNTING FALCONRY IN SOUTH CAROLINA’S LOW COUNTRY

Jason Isbell ’s Southern Storytelling

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To explore the unparalleled real estate opportunities that await at The Greenbrier Sporting Club, call (855) 494-1076, visit GreenbrierLiving.com or text “HOME” to (304) 245-6772 to reach an agent. Obtain the Property Report required by Federal law and read it before signing anything. No Federal Agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of this property. This is not intended to be an offer to sell nor a solicitation of offers to buy real estate in The Greenbrier Sporting Club by residents of Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, and Oregon or in any other jurisdiction where prohibited by law. This project is registered with the New Jersey Real Estate Commission, N.J. Reg. No. 11-59-0002. This project is registered pursuant to New York State Department of Law’s simplified procedure for Homeowners Associations with a De Minimus Cooperative Interest and contained in a CPS-7 application available from the sponsor. File No. HO-00-0082. This project is registered with the Pennsylvania State Real Estate Commission, Registration No. OL-000654. Use of recreational facilities and amenities requires separate club membership. John Klemish, Broker. Office located in The Greenbrier resort.



THE SUMMER 2020 ISSUE

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SAILING AMERICA

BRIAR BRITCHES

Onne van der Wal’s latest limitededition book, “Sailing America,” is a one-of-a-kind collection of 200 photographs that depicts every form of American sailing.

26 FALCONRY IN THE LOW COUNTRY

The arcane sport is experienced at Field & Fire, which takes place at Palmetto Bluff in South Carolina.

Author Dallas Hudgens learned some lessons on a grouse hunting trip with experienced guide Wes Hodges.

39 MEET A THOROUGHBRED CONTENDER

Finite, a Munnings filly owned by Virginia Thoroughbred Association’s Debbie Easter and friends, has a shot at the 2020 Kentucky Oaks.

42 SOMETHING FISHY

James Beard Award-winning writer, chef and hunter Hank Shaw shares his recipe for simple grilled whole fish.

A BEAUTIFUL WOODEN DORY ON THE BEACH NEAR PORT TOWNSEND, WASHINGTON. PHOTO BY ONNE VA N D E R WA L

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DEPARTMENTS THE SUMMER 2020 ISSUE

12 OUTFITTED Whether your summer plans call for the woods or waters, our summer gear guide has equipment for every adventure.

14 FROM THE FIELD Extensive restoration efforts are underway at Virginia’s South River Preserve.

48 MORE TO EXPLORE Our editors review an expanded selection of new gear for summer travel and adventure.

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CHILES LARSON’S PHOTOS AND STORY CAPTURE THE ESSENCE OF SOUTHWEST V I R G I N I A’ S “ B A N J O M A N ” J A M E S YA R B E R .

58 THE SOUND

ON THE COVER

Jason Isbell continues to set a high bar for Southern storytelling on new album, “Reunions.”

61 OPEN SPACES A Virginia lensman—and writer—remembers Banjo Man and forgotten sounds from southwest Virginia.

JASON ISBELL GETS PERSONAL ON “REUNIONS” WITH HIS B A N D T H E 4 0 0 U N I T.

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IN EVERY ISSUE

10 | Editor’s Note OUR FAVORITES

46 | Summer Beer Picks 6

T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N | SUMMER 2020

BIOLITE’S FIREPIT IS THE PERFECT SUMMER C O M PA N I O N F O R GRILLING, CAMPING OR LOUNGING.

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THE 46-FOOT BENETEAU S A R AVAT I SAILS OFF T H E N Ā PA L I COAST OF KAUAI, HAWAII. PHOTO: ONNE VA N D E R WA L .


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We’re elegant AND rugged, and everything in between.

Come explore Patrick County, Virginia. Picnics at a covered bridge or along the Blue Ridge Parkway, canoe rides, traditional mountain music, artisan studios, local wineries, bed and breakfasts, camping, hiking, mountain biking, and fishing are just a few of the attractions awaiting you. From the rugged outdoors to 5-star luxury, there is so much to discover in Patrick County. www.visitpatrickcounty.org

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The Summer 2020 Issue

EDITOR’S NOTE

C H I L E S T. A . L A R S O N ’ S IMAGE OF RUNNING TIDE I S A S T R I K I N G I N S TA N C E O F 1 9 7 0 ’ S YAC H T I N G P H O T O G R A P H Y.

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y friend Chiles Larson recently sent me one of his black-and-white photographs. I was stunned by the striking instance of 1970’s yachting photography. The composition—and the understated daring required to create high art on open water—caught me off guard. So did Larson; the internet-savvy 91-year-old e-mailed a brief note and a link so I could download his high-resolution

image with ease. “I thought you might like a shot I took more than 40 years ago during the Annapolis Yacht Club Fall Series,” he wrote. “Running Tide is a 60-foot racing sloop that won virtually every major yachting event on the East Coast, including the Southern Ocean Racing Circuit and the 1976 Newport-to-Bermuda Race. I raced on her during the overnight Marblehead-to-Halifax Ocean Race, and several other times.” Larson has always had a strong interest in sailing. He participated in two oceansailing races and has published cover shots in SAIL, Yachting and an America’s Cup photograph in the year-end special issue of Sports Illustrated. “I am very proud of the shot I sent you, and I was very surprised that I was able to pull it off,” Larson said. “It was the perfect point of sail. We had a billowy jib and smooth water. The light was right. I used an early 35mm Contax camera with a 21mm Zeiss Biogon wideangle lens. Next to a fish eye, the 21mm is an extreme, wide-angle lens.” To get the shot in Annapolis, Larson kept his left foot on the deck and held onto the quarter life lines with his left hand. Then he extended himself over the water as far as he could. “I wrapped the strap around my right wrist and kept the lens about a foot off the water. Mindful of spray, I made certain to hold the camera level and tried to keep it dry.

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There was no way I could look through the viewfinder. It was like shooting a pistol—I popped the button with my right thumb and hoped for the best.” The image garnered attention in The New York Times, Washington Post and Baltimore Sun. The Sun’s James Holechek featured Larson and the Running Tide shot in his “Boating” Sunday Sun recreation column. He titled it “A Photographer Afloat,” because he wondered if Larson photographed the sailboat while floating in the water. Life favors the bold. Shooters shoot. There’s a story behind every picture, and there’s often a better tale about the people who seize these moments in time. Larson can shoot and tell a story. He has been doing both for years, and we are thankful that he remains a frequent contributor to The Virginia Sportsman. The Running Tide snapshot sets the tone for summer—and for Eric Kallen’s feature on the life and latest work of Onne van der Wal. The award-winning nautical photographer’s most recent coffee table book, “Sailing America” (Rizzoli, Oct. 22, 2019), features 200 color photographs that celebrate the sailing lifestyle. The book is a love letter to an archetypal American pursuit that’s much more than a pastime for people who enjoy it. In this issue, we also feature another Larson subject: “Banjo Man.” It is the story of James Yarber, arguably the best picker in southwest Virginia who ever played a banjo. Larson stumbled upon black-and-white photos taken decades ago at an impromptu concert in Yarber’s barn. They jogged his memory—and he heard the music again. There’s something special about print publications. You can feel and touch them. They can take you away to different times and places. They provide an escape, and these days that’s exactly what we all need. Thanks Chiles.


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The Summer 2020 Issue | OUTFITTED

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SUMMER GEAR PICKS

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Venture into the wild with these essential goods for sport and travel. 6

BY ERIC KALLEN AND JEDD FERRIS

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OTTERBOX VENTURE 45 [1] The OtterBox Venture 45 is made for long trips in hot weather. The cooler’s two-inch refrigeration grade insulation will keep ice cold for an amazing 14 days, and it’s outfitted with a handful of convenient features, including a bottle opener, dry storage tray, and rubber feet to prevent sliding. $299.99; otterbox.com

DULUTH TRADING COMPANY ALASKAN HARDGEAR SOCKEYE SHORT SLEEVE SHIRT [2] Duluth Trading Company recently launched a new line of fishing apparel. For throwing lines throughout the hot months, the Sockeye Short Sleeve Shirt is a performance-minded button down designed to keep you cool. It’s made with moisture-wicking poly with UPF 30 sun protection, along with a venting yoke in the back that really lets the breeze in. $64.50; duluthtrading.com

LEATHERMAN FREE K2 [3]

performance. Modeled after a threedecade-old staple, the updated Clarion is ready for the woods of Virginia, outfitted with a rugged Vibram sole and Gore-Tex waterproof protection. $159.99; vasque.com

SNOW PEAK TITANIUM CURVED FLASK [5] For river trips or lodge getaways, Snow Peak offers a lightweight flask that’s easy to bring anywhere. It’s made with high-quality Japanese titanium that won’t taint the taste of your favorite bourbon, and the sleek, curved design makes it easy to keep close by for quick nips between casts. $150; snowpeak.com

HANAH LIFE, HANAH ONE SUPPLEMENT [6] Based on the 5,000-year-old principles of Ayurvedic medicine, HANNAH Life offers a range of supplements designed to help strengthen the immune system, increase focus and provide sustainable energy. HANNAH’s flagship product, HANNAH One, combines 30 wild-harvested herbs, antioxidants and anti-inflammatories into a gel or a powder that can be taken alone or blended with other ingredients. $49.00-$55.00; hanahlife.com

LIFEPROOF WAKE [7] The Wake helps protect your phone and conserve resources, as the cases are made from over 85 percent ocean-based recycled plastic. Also, through sales of the cases, which feature a sculpted wave design and are available for iPhone and Galaxy phones, LifeProof is donating funds to water-conscious nonprofit organizations. $39.99; lifeproof.com

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When you need to keep a small, reliable knife at the ready, the Free K2 is lightweight and streamlined with a 3.3inch blade and a handful of essential tools, including multiple screwdrivers and a bottle opener. $79.50; leatherman.com

VASQUE CLARION ’88 GTX [4] An extremely comfortable and durable boot for summer hiking, Vasque’s Clarion ’88 GTX features retro style with modern construction for peak

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The Summer 2020 Issue | FROM THE FIELD

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SOUTH RIVER PRESERVE’S RIVER RESTORATION Hilliard Estate & Land Management Helps Landowners Restore a Stretch of the South River BY JOE SHIELDS | PHOTOS COURTESY OF HELM

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n our Winter 2019 issue, we featured Jimmy Hazel, a preservationist and sportsman whose farm in Virginia serves as a model for sensible land and water use. His approach has created a healthy habitat for birds, animals and increasingly—fish. “I manage South River Preserve with a ‘maximum carrying capacity per acre for wildlife’ philosophy in mind,” said Hazel. “This entails eradicating invasive species, managing hardwoods, growing and appreciating warm-season grasses that some people might find unsightly. But to wildlife, this type of habitat offers protection and food.” Seventeen years ago, Hazel and his wife Sally purchased 300 acres of forest and open land on the South River in Greene County. An avid hunter and angler, Hazel was drawn to the spot because of the South River and other trout streams, including the Rapidan and Conway Rivers. A little more than a mile and a quarter of the South River runs through his farm. “It’s a great little mountain stream,” he said. “There are healthy populations of smallmouth bass, sunfish and suckers. Twice a year, in early spring and fall, I also stock the stream with rainbow and brook trout. I fish there at least once a week. We have a contract to buy a parcel on the other side of the river, which gets us more river frontage and the opposite riverbank. This will give us the opportunity to do a better job making improvements to the overall river system.” The South River originates on the side of a mountain near the Blue Ridge Parkway, in close proximity to the popular hiking destination South River Falls. The stream is 13.7 miles long and is part of the Rappahannock River watershed.

Hazel believes Rose River Farm (www.roseriverfarm.com) in nearby Madison County is a great model for his vision of the South River. Rose River Farm offers a limited number of fly anglers private water on the Rose River; the stream’s cold, spring-fed water has a river rock base with very little sediment. The owners managed both sides of the riverbank, creating a healthy river system with large pools for trout. “Roughly 150 acres of our property is now suitable habitat for dozens of species of birds, including bobwhite quail, indigo buntings, king fishers and blue herons,” he added. “My approach to stream maintenance is very similar. I love to fish and want the river to be a suitable environment for fish.” Hazel knows what he is talking about. He has been on many statewide boards and chaired several of them. These included the Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries (VDGIF), where he served for 10 years and chaired for three. In November, the Hazels were honored along with other regional landowners at the Culpeper Soil and Water Conservation District’s Conservation Awards dinner. The Hazels received the 2019 Wildlife Habitat Award. South River Preserve is a licensed game preserve with the VDGIF. Virginia Working Landscapes at the Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute does regular wildlife surveys on the property for pollinators and birds. There are around 40 acres of food plots, two waterfowl ponds that are flooded seasonally for habitat purposes and two permanent ponds. In 2018, months of repeated and severe flooding caused the South River to laterally migrate and erode nearly 40 feet into a corn and sunflower field on the property. The Hazels completed 250 feet of

A LITTLE MORE THAN A MILE AND A QUARTER OF T H E S O U T H R I V E R R U N S T H R O U G H J I M M Y H A Z E L’ S SOUTH RIVER PRESERVE.

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“HELM has really helped me transform South River Preserve into a rich habitat for wildlife. They manage the property and our conservation efforts throughout the year, so the outfit was the logical choice to make the design and engineering plans become a reality.”

stream restoration, restoring both the streambank and the aquatic habitat. “Those floods were so violent. Six or seven other property owners on the South River filed permit applications with the Department of Environmental Quality (DEQ) so they could address the flood damage. I filed a permit application too, but I did so with engineering drawings to improve the river system on our land.” Hazel hired Resource Environmental Solutions (RES), a nationwide leader in environmental engineering, restoration and mitigation work with an office in Charlottesville. They designed and permitted the project, and Charlottesville-based Hilliard Estate & Land Management (HELM) took on the construction, excavation work and plantings. “HELM has really helped me transform South River Preserve into a rich habitat for wildlife. They manage the property and our conservation efforts throughout the year, so the outfit was the logical choice to make the design and engineering plans become a reality.” The plans called for rebuilding the river bank, returning the water

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AFTER SEVERE FLOODING IN 2018, THE HAZELS C O M P L E T E D 2 5 0 F E E T O F S T R E A M R E S TO R AT I O N TO R E PA I R T H E S T R E A M B A N K A N D A Q U AT I C H A B I TAT.

to its original channel and stabilizing the bank to prevent future erosion. Work began early in 2019. It ended up being a three-month undertaking. “We really enjoyed working with, and learning a lot from, RES on this project,” said HELM Founder Carter Hilliard. “We are big believers in the benefits of collaboration, and we jumped at the chance to work with RES.” HELM has been in business for more than 10 years and has a team of 20 full-time employees. The company has the know-how, equipment and vehicles to manage land in a sustainable and intelligent way. “It was a challenging project—winter is the ideal time for river restoration work, but also usually one of the worst times for dirt work,” added Hilliard. “A key component was the live-staking material, which serves as the linchpin for future stabilization once root systems develop and extend throughout the bank. Ultimately, we found a period of consistent good weather in February. We successfully wrapped things up before the March warmer weather hit and the staking material came out of dormancy. So far, the results have been outstanding, and all the improvements have been holding up as designed. We look forward to completing phase two on the other side of the river.” Hazel explained that it’s critical to address both sides of a river for optimal system performance. The idea behind the stream’s restoration is to prevent the impact of a high-river event. Last year the team addressed only one side of the bank; the other side remained highly eroded and the red-dirt riverbank had no vegetation to prevent erosion.


“A key component was the live-staking material, which serves as the linchpin for future stabilization once root systems develop and extend throughout the bank. Ultimately, we found a period of consistent good weather in February. We successfully wrapped things up before the March warmer weather hit and the staking material came out of dormancy. So far, the results have been outstanding, and all the improvements have been holding up as designed. We look forward to completing phase two on the other side of the river.” “It’s a combination of sloping the banks properly and planting materials such as grasses, woody stalks and willows,” said Hazel. “This model works wonders.” South River Preserve will be even more wonderful when Hazel’s efforts impact the other side of the river. Visit hilliardmanagment.com for more information. Joe Shields is the editor in chief of The Virginia Sportsman. He is a writer and marketing executive based in Charlottesville, Virginia. His writing and photography have appeared in The Virginia Sportsman and other publications. Whether fly fishing or surfing, he loves the outdoors and celebrates sporting life and culture in his narratives.

R E S O U R C E E N V I R O N M E N TA L S O LU T I O N S ( R E S ) D E S I G N E D A N D P E R M I T T E D T H E P R O J E C T. H I L L I A R D E S TAT E A N D L A N D M A N AG E M E N T ( H E L M ) M A N AG E D C O N S T R U C T I O N , E XC AVAT I O N W O R K A N D P L A N T I N G S .

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Sailing America The Latest Work of Nautical Photographer Onne van der Wal STORY BY ERIC KALLEN | PHOTOS BY ONNE VAN DER WAL

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FOR GENERATIONS, THE SEA HAS PROVIDED A CALLING TO RESTLESS YOUTHS AND BOLD SOULS IN SEASIDE COMMUNITIES AROUND THE WORLD. WHETHER IT’S A QUEST FOR ADVENTURE OR AN ESCAPE FROM AN OVERBEARING SCHOOL MASTER, SAILORS HAVE ALWAYS SOUGHT SOLACE IN THE OPEN AIR AND THE VAST EXPANSES OF OCEANS. As a young boy growing up in Cape Town, South Africa, Onne van der Wal turned to the sea to flee the strict British school system that clashed with the independence he craved. Born into a sailing family, van der Wal’s family immigrated from Holland to South Africa in 1959 when he was three years old. Growing up in the coastal village of Hout Bay, van der Wal often found himself on the docks with fisherman and sailors who frequented the town. During his teenage years, van der Wal became increasingly drawn to adventure and life on open water. He found a job working on fishing boats that frequented the plentiful fishing grounds near his home. Commercial fishing convinced van der Wal that school was not for him. Soon afterwards, he began a machinist apprenticeship with a local engineering firm. “My high school years were not great,” van der Wal admitted. “I excelled at sports, but the English school system did not suit me. I wanted to be on the water.” The young man’s real passion was sailing. He spent every spare moment of his time doing it with the idea of crewing on one of the local racing boats that sailed the waters along the Cape coastline. For van der Wal, sailing became an obsession— and an escape. For professional sailors of this era, the greatest and most challenging yacht race was the Whitbread Round the World Race. First held in 1972, the Whitbread was a 27,000 nauticalmile, blue-water marathon that consisted of four legs; each one lasted between four and six weeks. Named after the original sponsor, the British brewing company Whitbread, the race course was designed to follow the route of the squarerigged sailing ships that carried cargo around the world in the 19th century.

F O R O N N E VA N D E R WA L , SA I L I N G WAS A N ESCAPE AND AN OBSESSION.

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Held every three or four years, the early races turned into a baptism by fire for the crews that signed up to brave the Southern Ocean, with its legendary 150-foot waves and 70-knot winds. In the days before GPS navigation, carbon-fiber hulls and Kevlar sails, the early Whitbread races were the domain of brave sailors who accepted the challenge, often with little thought to their own safety. “It’s balls-to-the-walls sailing,” van der Wal said, “with thousands of miles of big waves and rough weather.” After his apprenticeship ended and he was accepted into the machinist trade, van der Wal looked for his next adventure, one that held his attention ever since the Whitbread race came to Cape Town in 1973. His dream was to crew one of the racing yachts in the 1981/82 Whitbread Round the World Race. And securing one of the coveted spots was not easy. His approach was direct; van der Wal sent a letter to Dutch industrialist Cornelius “Connie” van Rietschoten, who planned to skipper a boat in the 1981/82 Whitbread. Coming off a victory in the 1977/78 Whitbread, van Rietschoten had a reputation as a fierce competitor and sound mariner. When it came to racing, van Rietschoten left nothing to chance and is credited with being the first to engage in extensive trials and crew training before the start of the race. At a time when around-the-world racing was a domain for amateurs, van Rietschoten invested heavily in research to improve crew clothing, rigs and weather-forecasting techniques. O N N E V A N D E R W A L’ S “ S A I L I N G A M E R I C A ” I N C LU D E S 2 0 0 C O LO R P H OTO G R A P H S T H AT C E L E B R AT E T H E S A I L I N G L I F E S T Y L E .

He also recognized van der Wal’s skills as an engineer and mariner and offered him a coveted spot on the next Whitbread crew aboard his new 76’ aluminum-hulled Flyer II. The Dutch South African recognized the importance of the race in his life and decided to bring a camera on the voyage. “I hoped to have enough photos for a good family slide show,” van der Wal recalled. Those low expectations were soon blown away when SAIL w asked van der Wal to document the voyage for the publication. At the time, it was unheard of for a photographer to participate in the race, especially given the harsh and often dangerous conditions that faced Whitbread crews. He jumped at the opportunity. “There are times when you are barely afloat and have the gales blowing,” he said, describing the challenges he faced as a photographer on a racing yacht. “There have been some scary moments, but to get the pictures you have to go through all of that.” His goal was to capture a first-person perspective; van der Wal wanted his audience to feel the salty ocean spray. His method was straightforward: “One hand for the boat, one hand for the camera.” The 1981/82 Whitbread Round the World Race was legendary. The Flyer II won the race and all four individual stages. Despite the victories, the crew experienced drama on the high seas. During Leg 2, van Rietschoten suffered a heart attack and fell unconscious. Locked in a tight battle with the New Zealand boat Ceramco, the skipper feared that the New Zelanders would

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“SAILING AMERICA” BY ONNE VAN DER WAL

Award-winning nautical photographer Onne van der Wal’s work has graced the covers of every major sailing magazine in the world. His in-depth knowledge of sailing and the workings of boats, combined with his reputation for shooting dramatic angles from the masthead or the end of the spinnaker pole, have produced some of sailing’s most iconic images. In his latest limited-edition book, “Sailing America” (Rizzoli, October 22, 2019, hardcover), van der Wal pays tribute to his art—and a way of life. This one-of-a-kind collection of 200 beautiful photographs depicts every form of American sailing, from racing yachts in Newport, Rhode Island, to an 88-foot sloop sailing before the Statue of Liberty. The book is organized by U.S. regions, from Puerto Rico to the tip of Alaska. Most of the images were shot specifically for the book. For anyone who loves beautiful images, “Sailing America” captures the joy, excitement and adventure of this great pastime, as seen through the eyes and lens of a true master. For more information or to buy prints, merchandise and copies of the book ($100.00), visit www.vanderwal.com. T H E S L E E K R AC I N G YAC H T Q U E S TA E N J OY S T H E M O U N TA I N B R E E Z E I N M O N TA N A .


push their boat even harder if they knew about his condition. “We had to stay ahead, and the less they know about my condition, the better,” van Rietschoten said. “When you die at sea, you are buried over the side. Perhaps those Ceramco boys might have spotted me drifting by, and I was determined that would be the only thing they would see or hear from Flyer II on that matter.” The race was a success for the skipper and crew. It also marked the beginning of van der Wal’s successful career as an award-winning nautical photographer. “I started the race as a professional sailor but finished the race as a photographer.” He spent five more years crossing oceans with his cameras as a professional yacht racer. Then van der Wal was ready to settle down. He loved the American way and decided to make his home in the United States. “I got tired of living on boats and decided that I wanted to live in Newport, Rhode Island, and then I’d figure out what I’d do to make a living.” BEAR GLACIER DWARFS AN 88-FOOT SLOOP IN K E N A I FJ O R D S N AT I O N A L PA R K

Encouraged by friends, van der Wal started a photography business. The venture was a success; his knowledge and love of sailing, good eye and business sense made it thrive. Nearly 30 years later, you can still stroll along the Newport waterfront and pass his gallery, which serves as a testament to the beauty of sailing and the sea. If you go inside, you might find a white-haired Dutch South African with an engaging smile. More than likely, he will have a camera around his neck and want to share stories of his time at sea. He might even talk about his experience aboard the Flyer II and the Whitbread Round the World Race. It was a rite of passage, one that led to an unparalleled archive and a lifetime devoted to boats and the pursuit of pleasure on the water. Learn more at www.vanderwal.com. Eric Kallen is the editor-at-large of The Virginia Sportsman. He is an avid sportsman who spends his time between homes in Charlottesville, Virginia, the mountains of western North Carolina and the shores of Mobile Bay, Alabama.

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At Palmetto Bluff ’s Field & Fire, Falconry is an Object Lesson in the Wild B Y J . M I C H A E L W E LT O N

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PHOTOS BY BONJWING LEE

Nature Unfiltered


Each February, Palmetto Bluff hosts the ultimate chill event in all of South Carolina’s Lowcountry. It’s called Field & Fire, and it is to country preps what Gram Parsons was to country rockers. Hundreds of genteel, Barbourand Orvis-clad Southerners turn out for a range of activities during the three-day experience. It’s held in and around the Bluff’s 20,000 New-Urbanism acres on the May River, a civilized celebration of sporting life in the South. In the event’s pop-up gift shop, a prominent sign broadcasts the weekend’s mantra: “Shoot. Shop. Sip. Repeat.” It’s adhered to by most in attendance. Among the activities are live music, fly casting, sporting clays, bird dog demonstrations, down-home talks, horses and hounds, fine wines and food and open-air fires tended by a fastidious staff. There are gifted artisans with their wares as well—glassmakers, interior designers, cartographers, apparel artists and bamboo flyrod builders, among others. B u t th e m o st It all peaks on Saturday night intriguing and with a candlelit “Bourbon & r iv e t i n g e x pe r i e n ce Birds” dinner—five courses occu r s i n th e w ood s n e a r a t w o - t ra ck , 1 0 pairing exotic fowl with m i l e s a w a y f r o m th e rarified spirits. v i l l a ge sq u a r e. T h a t ’s w h e r e a co te r i e o f But the most intriguing e i g h t pe o pl e a t a t i m e and riveting experience sh a r e s th e m a j e st y o f occurs in the woods near a h u n t i n g t ra d i t i o n st r e tch i n g ba ck a two-track, 10 miles away th o u sa n d s o f ye a r s. from the village square. L e d by Ste v e He i n That’s where a coterie of a n d h i s 3 2 - ye a r - ol d so n , A d a m , th e y a r e eight people at a time shares w i t n e sse s to — a n d the majesty of a hunting pa r t i ci pa n ts i n — th e a r c a n e spo r t o f tradition stretching back f a l co n r y. thousands of years. Led by Steve Hein and his 32-yearold son, Adam, they are witnesses to—and participants in—the arcane sport of falconry. The elder Hein was introduced to it in the late 1980s when a Red-tailed hawk clutched his leather-clad fist. “It was a lifechanging moment for me,” he says. “I instantly remembered seeing a Redtail kill a rabbit when I was a kid—it was raw violence, awe-inspiring and powerful—but most of all, it was real. It was nature unfiltered.” Now the former Georgia Ducks Unlimited Artist of the Year serves as executive director at the Center for Wildlife Education at Georgia Southern University in Statesboro. He tends to 35 raptors there—hawks, owls, vultures and eagles, all native to Georgia. That includes “Freedom,” the school’s bald eagle mascot that flies over football games and starred in a BBC documentary, with a camera strapped to its back. ( O P P O S I T E PA G E ) M A S T E R FA L C O N E R S T E V E H E I N I S T H E E X E C U T I V E D I R E C TO R AT T H E C E N T E R F O R W I L D L I F E E D U C AT I O N AT G E O R G I A S O U T H E R N U N I V E R S I T Y. ( T O P ) PA L M E T T O B L U F F C H A P E L A N D (BOTTOM) FIELD & FIRE LIVE MUSIC ARE WORTH SEEING AND EXPERIENCING. S U M M ER 2020 | T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N

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( T O P ) PA L M E T T O B L U F F F I E L D & F I R E B O U R B O N TA S T I N G A N D ( B OT TO M ) S T E V E H E I N A N D H I S BIRDS OF PREY

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PHOTOS BY BONJWING LEE

They’re all birds of prey, but with distinct differences, like the silhouette of their wings. A falcon’s is sharp, short and pointed like a fighter jet. A hawk’s are very broad, with a shorter tail and thicker toes, while a falcon’s toes are thin. “So falcons catch other birds, but hawks are used for ground prey,” Adam Hein says. “It’s how they evolved, from the lack of foot strength that falcons have.” A professional at his chosen sport, the elder Hein is licensed by the federal and state governments as a master falconer. And he gets the psychological attraction of humans to raptors. “There’s a reason we name our sports teams after predators— like the Philadelphia Eagles, the Atlanta Falcons and the Seattle Seahawks,” he says. “We are predators ourselves—it’s in our DNA. It’s how we originated. We want to be big and powerful and all that.” Hein’s hunting demonstrations with his son and their two hawks—plus two Hungarian-bred Vizsla dogs (also father and son)—are mesmerizing. They’ll set one bird free to perch in a tree, while unleashing a single dog into the wild. When he’s on point for a pheasant or quail, they’ll flush it—and watch the hawk strike it down in a flurry of feathers—mid-flight, 10 feet in the air. While it’s finishing off its prey on the ground, Hein will approach the hawk with fresh pheasant meat in hand. Distracted by the feeding opportunity, it’ll turn away from its catch. Hein is quick to stuff the dead bird in a rucksack and continue the feeding. “It’s a pretty simple pursuit on the one hand and very complex on other hand—if you don’t know how to handle food for the falcon,” he says. “There’s a bond of paramount importance between the bird and me, and it’s trust. I trust him, and he trusts me.”


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PHOTOS BY BONJWING LEE

Hein estimates that there are only a total of 4,000 falconers in the entire nation. Of those falconers, Hein believes only 2,000 have a bird at any given time, and only 1,000 of those birds come from the wild each year. “Statistically, it’s an outlier,” he says. “But we’ll be creating a relationship as long as a dog and a falcon have game.” He traces the history of the sport back to China, 4,000 years ago, then to the Middle East and Arab nations—with the English picking falconry up during the Crusades—and finally to the United States. “Here we weren’t even regulating falconry activity until 1972,” he says. “There were practitioners, and the sport sort of cobbled itself together in the 1960s.” Its popularity is derived from a rarified, up-close view of how nature works—through a lens that reveals that hawks are nothing if not opportunistic. “I was on the Serengeti plains in Africa and saw the sheer numbers of birds of prey above an area there where wildebeests were walking,” he says. “It was amazing—they were rustling the lizards, the rabbits and the birds into the grass.” There, he was tapping into the biology and the symbiotic relationship between the raptors and the surrounding ecosystem. “So, when you plow a fallow field, you’re turning over the soil and the Redtails immediately are above you,” he says. “That’s one of the reasons the Redtail loves the yellow and green of a John Deere tractor.” If they’re the essence of life, falconry and nature are never hypocritical and can’t be judged, Hein believes. “They’re neither bad or good, kind or evil—just natural,” he says. Which is why he chooses Field & Fire as one of his favored venues. “Almost anything that gets people outdoors, I’m 100 percent in favor of,” he says. “It’s a good thing because it involves getting people close to nature.” And anytime you put birds, dogs and object lessons together in the wild, you’ve instantly won a Southerner’s heart. J. Michael Welton writes about architecture, art and design for national and international publications, and edits a digital design magazine at www.architectsandartisans.com. He is the architecture critic for The News & Observer in Raleigh, N.C., and author of “Drawing from Practice: Architects and the Meaning of Freehand” (Routledge: 2015). PA L M E T T O B L U F F ’ S S O U T H E R N H O S P I TA L I T Y A N D ACTIVITIES ARE PERFECT FOR RESIDENTS AND VISITORS. S U M M ER 2020 | T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N

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Briar Britches BY DALLAS HUDGENS | PHOTOS BY MIKE RENNIE

M

y grandfather Scott Hudgens was the bird hunter in the family. He hosted annual quail hunts for friends and business associates on his retired dairy farm in Georgia. The man and his guests smoked cigars and shot guns as setters and pointers flushed birds in the field. To this day, my father recalls the sound of stray shots that peppered the tin roof of their house. I remember my grandfather and his guests, toting Benelli over-under shotguns and donning their finest orange vests and briar britches. They were sportsmen and gentlemen. I remember them celebrating the tradition with cigars, whiskey and banter after each hunt. Despite my grandfather’s love for I was always upland game, the rest of the family curious about steered clear of bird hunting. Some family bird hunting members hunted deer and waterfowl. I focused on fishing. because of my Although I preferred rods to guns grandfather. and fresh waters to upland habitat, I was always curious about bird hunting because of my grandfather. The thought of slinking through fields and patches of timber with well-trained hunting dogs that receive better treatment than humans appealed to me. But the idea of starting from scratch and buying and training a dog for something I’d never done was intimidating. Training my own dogs was not an option; the mutts are only good for barking at squirrels in the yard. Lady luck, it turned out, was on my side. During a late-summer fishing trip with my friend and guide Wes Hodges, I’d mentioned the memories of my grandfather and my eagerness to follow in his footsteps as a bird hunter. Hodges happily invited me to go hunting with him in the fall. Naturally, I didn’t expect to emerge from the woods with a vest full of woodcock and grouse when I went to hunt with Hodges. And my experience with firearms began and ended with skeet and trap shooting. Two or three outings each year resulted in me hitting (at best) half my targets. I never learned proper technique;

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my friends and I enjoyed blowing up The dog ran on the brittle orange “Frisbees” using diesel fuel and inexpensive, pump shotguns. So, I moved like a was pretty excited for the experience of learning something new. bottle rocket. When we arrived at the first location, Hodges’ two dogs began hopping around in their boxes in the back of his pick-up truck. First, he released a chocolate lab—a wily veteran named Cooper. The lab gave me a quick look and then glanced back at Hodges as if to say, “Who the hell is this guy?” Despite my apprehension, Cooper allowed me to give him a quick head scratch before he trotted away to sit near the edge of the woods to wait for us. Duke, a Llewelyn setter, was Hodges’ young gun. The dog ran on diesel fuel and moved like a bottle rocket. On command, Duke darted into the woods, sprinting 20-yard circles around us. Then he ran up on his first bird, just 50 feet away from the truck. A woodcock took flight as Duke jumped and nipped at his feathers. The bird quickly gained altitude. Hodges swung to the right and fired. “Duke will calm down in a minute,” Hodges chuckled, after a clean miss. “He needs to burn off some energy first. He’s not supposed to actually go after the bird. Soon, you’ll see him stop and point at the bird. Then either you, me or Cooper will flush it out.” ELLA, A PUP BRED BY NEW MEXICO’S JORNADA S E T T E R S , W I L L M A K E A G R E AT G U N D O G O N E D AY.

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I nodded and took a deep breath to regain my composure. Even though I didn’t take a shot, I felt the rush that comes with flushing a bird and shouldering a shotgun. My heart pounded. Hodges lined up to the right of me and we continued to walk. Duke was tireless, even after running for at least 30 straight minutes. I heard Duke crash through fallen leaves, but then the sound stopped. I looked up and saw his head locked in, and his body was still as stone. Hodges instructed me to move closer S C OT T H U D G E N S , T H E AU T H O R ’ S G R A N D FAT H E R , WAS A N AV I D B I R D H U N T E R . P H OTO C O U RT E SY O F DALLAS HUDGENS

behind Duke. He also explained that a flush to the left was my bird, and the one to the right was his. Cooper went in and flushed the bird out. Another woodcock flew into the air, away from me and right of Hodges. He squared up and took the shot. The boom of his Benelli 12-gauge shotgun bounced off the mountains around us. The woodcock zig-zagged between trees and disappeared into thick rhododendron above a rocky outcrop. It was another miss. The dogs eagerly held their positions, awaiting their next command. Hodges gave the order and Cooper was back at our sides while Duke took the lead in search of more birds. I didn’t expect my first outing with Hodges to be easy, but I was truly unprepared for the difficulty of the sport. My hands and arms were bloody after navigating through thick briar patches and eyelevel pine needles. The action slowed after those first 30 minutes. Duke and Cooper did not find any other birds. The few times Duke went on point were in areas where birds had fed but moved on. I had fun watching the dogs. I also enjoyed taking the offensive and being proactive in the hunt. Being out in the mountains and working through hilly, prickly terrain, is something I plan on doing again next season. I am not going to invest in a bird dog any time soon, but I might pull the trigger on a quality over-under shotgun and frequent the shooting range. I will be ready the next time I put on my briar britches. Book a hunting or fishing trip with Wesley Hodges at wesleyhodgesflyfishing.com. Dallas Hudgens discovered his passion for fishing on Virginia’s suburban public lakes. In his youth he pursued bass with a baitcaster. Today he lives in the heart of the Blue Ridge and enjoys fly fishing for brook trout in the mountain streams of his home state.

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Onne van der Wal combines three passions: sailing, photography, and travel; and it is evident in the end result of his dramatic nautical photography. With photographs spanning Onne’s 30 years of shooting, there is something for everyone in the van der Wal collection. LIMITED EDITION PRINTS | BOOKS AND CALENDARS | ACCESSORIES | GIFT CERTIFICATES

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Glorious views to Pigeon Top Mountain and direct access to Sugar Hollow Reservoir offering 47 miles of hiking trails and stocked rainbow and brown trout fishing. From Charlottesville west on Garth RD approx. 20-mins and less than 15-mins to Crozet, VA and western Albemarle public schools. Close to Nelson County Route 151 known as Virginia’s premier Craft Beverage Trail and start of the beautiful Rockfish Valley offering accessible terrain for outside sport enthusiasts including Wintergreen Ski resort. A well constructed and maintained log cabin provides year round comfortable living. Ramp from garage to front deck provides direct access for all. The great room has a rock surround fire place with wood burning stove. New whole home generator and properly sealed crawl space. Contact listing agent for details. MLS #604938 Mark Mascotte | McLean Faulconer Inc. | C: 434.825.8610 | O: 434.295.1131 | markmascotte@gmail.com | mcleanfaulconer.com S U M M ER 2020 | T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N

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FINITE’S SHOT AT THE 2020 KENTUCKY OAKS Three-Year-Old Thoroughbred Munnings Filly is a Real Contender

PHOTO BY COADY PHOTOGRAPHY

BY JOE SHIELDS

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“A horse is worth more than riches.” — Spanish proverb

T

here’s something to be said for proverbs; they’re short, simple and express a perceived truth based on collective experiences. There’s a lot to be said for horses too, and some are certainly worth more than others. When it comes to owning them, there’s something to be said for backing the right horse—and making money with friends while doing it. That’s Debbie Easter’s approach to the racehorse business, and she knows what she is doing. Easter is the executive director of the Virginia Thoroughbred Association (VTA), a service organization that has been cultivating the development of the Commonwealth’s heritage as a producer of quality Thoroughbred horses since 1941. She is also the president of the Virginia Equine Alliance, a non-profit, 501 (c) 6 organization that works to sustain, promote and expand the horse-breeding and horse-racing industries in Virginia. “Most people who buy racehorses like to focus on colts but selecting and training the right one is like hitting the lottery,” said Easter. “I stick with buying fillies because you don’t have to do as much to increase their value like you do with colts. And when it works, it works really well.” So far Easter’s approach is working. In May 2019, she noticed a two-year-old Munnings filly named Finite at the Fasig Tipton Midlantic Two-Year-Olds in Training sales event. She became mesmerized by the horse and her personality. Acting as the agent, Easter arranged the purchase of Finite for $200,000. She partnered

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with Winchell Thoroughbreds, a racing and breeding operation that bred Finite in Kentucky out of the stakes-winning Tapit mare Remit. William Dickson, Thomas Reiman and a few of Easter’s friends who live in her hometown of Charlottesville also entered the partnership to buy the filly. “After I semi-retired, I wanted to get back into the horse business on some level with honest people who have integrity and talent,” said Sheri Greenberg, one co-owner who lives near Charlottesville. “Debbie is a tremendous horsewoman. She fits the bill, and so do the other owners and Finite’s trainer Steve Asmussen. It’s a fantastic business model, and it sure is fun. We got really lucky with Finite. She’s a special filly, and down the road she’ll be a wonderful brood mare.” Greenberg is a fan of Easter’s philosophy because of the filly residual market. Fillies that have won stake races are valuable as brood mares: the more black type on their sheets, the better the sale price. “Horse racing has been touted as the sport of kings, but partnerships have made it a possibility to own a piece of a stakeswinning Thoroughbred,” Greenberg added. “We’re a small, local friendly group. And we are fortunate to have partnered with classic owners and a classic trainer.. This is truly an amazing opportunity. Finite has been on one heck of a run and is a real contender for the 2020 Kentucky Oaks.” FINITE SWEPT THE 76TH RUNNING OF THE $300,000 G O L D E N R O D ( G R A D E I I ) AT C H U R C H I L L D O W N S BY THREE-QUARTERS OF A LENGTH. PHOTO BY COADY PHOTOGRAPHY


Sister to the Kentucky Derby, Kentucky Oaks is America’s premier and most lucrative race for three-year-old fillies. The Grade 1 (G1) stakes race is held at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky, one of the world’s most legendary racetracks. Churchill Downs has conducted Thoroughbred racing and presented the Kentucky Derby there since 1875. The Oaks and the Derby are among the oldest continuously contested sporting events in history, and the only horse races to be held at their original site. Last year, Finite built a five-race winning streak that began with her Sept. 12 maiden score on the turf at Kentucky Downs in Franklin, Tennessee. Since then, the filly won on Oct. 27 and November 30 at Churchill Downs, and put together another set of impressive wins on Jan. 18 and Feb. 15 at the Fair Grounds Race Course & Slots in New Orleans, Louisiana. Finite secured the 1,000th stakes victory for trainer Steve Asmussen when she won the Silverbulletday Stakes on Jan. 18. Asmussen is a hall of famer who joins D. Wayne Lukas and Todd Pletcher as the only conditioners in Thoroughbred racing history to reach that number. The filly’s remarkable winning streak ended at the Twinspires. com Fair Grounds Oaks, Fair Grounds Race Course & Slots, on March 21. She placed fourth in the race. “She easily could have won,” said Greenberg. “But I thought she looked uncomfortable and just wasn’t herself.” When a number of tracks paused because of the coronavirus pandemic, Finite was vetted for any issues that could be mended before racing restarted. After a thorough examination, a vet discovered a bone chip in her ankle that required surgery. “Finite’s surgery was a success, and she’s now back with Steve at the track and training towards the Kentucky Oaks,” Easter said. “The coronavirus issue may have worked in our favor, because it gave us a longer window to train for the big race now that it’s been moved to early September. Finite has been speedy on the dirt at some of the sport’s most renowned tracks. We hope to be lucky enough to watch her run in the Kentucky Oaks.” As of this writing, her career earnings total $654,349. According to the Kentucky Oaks leaderboard, Finite currently ranks third as a favorite to win with 80 points and $540,349 nonrestricted stakes earnings. She is behind Swiss Skydiver (210 pts., $386,820) and Bonny South (100 pts., $240,000). In March, Churchill Downs Incorporated announced that the 146th Kentucky Oaks race was rescheduled from May 1 to Sept. 4, 2020. The purse is $1.25 million, and the first-place horse will win $750,000. “I think she’s going to win, and I feel blessed to be riding my dream with some very special people,” added Greenberg. According to Churchill Downs, Kentucky state officials approved opening the stables under strict guidelines to mitigate the impact of COVID-19. Racing will be spectator-free until government officials approve their return. I am going to watch the race on TV or online. And I’ve already picked the horse I’m going to bet on. There’s nothing finite about it. Learn more at www.kentuckydowns.com and www. virginiahorseracing.com. Joe Shields is the editor in chief of The Virginia Sportsman. He is a writer and marketing executive based in Charlottesville, Virginia. His writing and photography have appeared in The Virginia Sportsman and other publications. Whether fly fishing or surfing, he loves the outdoors and celebrates sporting life and culture in his narratives.

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SIMPLE GRILLED WHOLE FISH B Y H A N K S H A W | P H O T O S B Y H O L LY A . H E Y S E R

G

rilled whole fish is something I do a lot, and it’s easy to do, once you know a few tips and tricks. Why grill whole fish? Several reasons. First, they look cool. Second, cooked properly, a grilled whole fish will stay together better than a grilled piece of fish. Third, you get crispy charred bits, which we all know and love. Finally, and probably most importantly, you get to eat more of the fish by wasting less. You get the collar, the cheeks and those amazingly nutty tail fins! (I am serious, try a crispy tail fin and tell me I’m crazy. I dare you.) What are the best fish to grill whole? Primarily bass-like fish that have substantial skeletons and relatively thick skins. Some options I like: small striped bass (pictured on this page), Pacific rockfish, Atlantic black seabass, small snapper or freshwater bass, porgies, small carp, small drum, croakers, speckled sea trout, yellow perch, pompano,

triggerfish, trout and even pink salmon. If the fish are small enough to fit into a wok, I crispy fry them, Asian style. But summer is for grilling. Here are some tips on making whole grilled fish: Size. You will have to flip the fish on the grill, so I generally won’t grill a whole fish larger than about 20 inches. They need to be scaled, gutted and gilled. Gills impart an off-taste to the fish and must be removed. Crispy fish skin is amazing. Slice the fish several times perpendicular to the backbone—this opens the fish to heat better, so it cooks evenly. Three to five slashes are good. Coat them in olive oil and salt only… for now. Get a hot fire and have your grill grates very clean. Dirty grates = sticky fish. No one likes that. Grill a bit longer than you think. Slightly overcooked grilled fish is better than undercooked; this is opposite of most indoor cooking.

Flipping a whole grilled fish is an art, but not a hard one to master. If your fish was well oiled, your grates are clean and you happen to have one of those long, flat spatulas that short-order cooks use to flip pancakes and eggs and burgers and such, you’re in business. Two regular spatulas work, too. After the fish are grilled, I will often sauce them with an herb vinaigrette. I have a recipe for this method, using porgies and oregano oil, in my first cookbook, “Hunt, Gather, Cook: Finding the Forgotten Feast.” Sometimes I stick with just salt, pepper and lemon. Sometimes I use that oregano oil or another herb-infused oil. Sometimes I season the fish with a basil vinaigrette I developed with my friend Elise over at Simply Recipes. Why basil? Because in summer, basil feels right. You could use any herb you want. Or leave the sauce out completely.

ABOUT HANK SHAW Hank Shaw is a chef, hunter, angler, forager and wild-foods expert constantly on the lookout for new things to gather, catch and eat. He is the author of four wild-game cookbooks: “Hunt, Gather, Cook: Finding the Forgotten Feast” (2011); “Duck, Duck, Goose: Recipes and Techniques for Ducks and Geese, both Wild and Domesticated” (2013); “Buck, Buck, Moose: Recipes and Techniques for Cooking Deer, Elk, Moose, Antelope and Other Antlered Things” (2016); and “Pheasant, Quail, Cottontail: Upland Birds and Small Game from Field to Feast” (2018). Shaw stands at the forefront of the wild-foods movement, and his website Hunter Angler Gardener Cook (honest-food.net) is the internet's largest source of tips, techniques and recipes for wild foods. From venison to wild mushrooms, waterfowl to upland game birds, saltwater and freshwater fish, seafood, and edible wild plants, food that you can’t buy in the store is Shaw’s specialty. Hunter Angler Gardener Cook won the James Beard Award for Best Blog in 2013; the Beards are considered the Oscars of the food world. Shaw also won the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) award for Best Blog in 2010 and 2011, and his work was featured in the 2012 and 2013 editions of “Best American Food Writing.” Shaw has appeared on television shows ranging from Mike Rowe’s “Somebody’s Gotta Do It” on CNN, to Andrew Zimmern’s “Bizarre Foods” on Travel Channel, to Steven Rinella's “Meateater” on Sportsman Channel. He has been featured in The New York Times, Chicago Tribune, the Washington Post, Field & Stream, CNN, NPR and similar outlets. He hunts, fishes and forages near Sacramento, CA.

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GRILLED WHOLE FISH Prep Time 20 mins Cook Time 15 mins Total Time 35 mins 1 or 2 whole fish, scaled, gutted and with gills removed Olive oil Salt Freshly ground black pepper

Grilling a whole fish is not difficult, but there are a few tricks to doing it without having the fish stick to your grill grates. Any whole fish will do, but you generally want them less than about 20 inches long. Make sure they are well coated in oil, well salted and make sure your grill is nice and hot, and you will be fine. 1. Wash the fish well and make 3 to 5 slashes in the meat perpendicular to the backbone on each side of the fish. You are doing this to open the interior of the fish to the heat, so it will cook evenly. Make more slashes closer to the head, where the fish is thicker, than toward the tail, which cooks first. Snip off any sharp fins with kitchen shears or scissors if you want. Leave the tail, as it will crisp up and taste wonderfully nutty. Seriously. Try it. 2. Coat the fish with olive oil and salt it a little more than you think you ought to; salty fish tastes good! Let the fish sit at room temperature for 20 minutes to an hour.

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3. Get your grill crazy hot, at least 500°F, and scrape the grill grates well to clean them. When you are ready to lay the fish down, dip a paper towel in some oil and grab it with tongs. Wipe down the grill with the oily towel and them immediately lay the fish down on the grill grates. Let them sizzle nicely for a minute or so. 4. Turn the heat down to medium and cover the grill if you have a gas grill, or just leave the fish on the open grill if you are using wood or charcoal and the grill is very hot. Let the fish cook for a total of 5 to 10 minutes on this side, depending on how thick it is. A general rule is a fish will need 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Estimate this thickness measuring to the fish's spine - remember you are flipping the fish. 5. To turn the fish, have your tongs in your “off” hand and a big spatula in your good hand. Gently turn the fish over. It should come off the grates cleanly. If not, don't force it. Let the fish back down and come back at it with the spatula, using pressure to pry it off the grates. You don't want to pull the fish away from the grates and have half the skin and meat stick to the grill. Once the fish is flipped, let it cook for another 5 to 10 minutes. 6. Once the fish is ready—check by making sure the meat closest to the bone in the slash that is closest to the head of the fish is fully cooked—put it on a platter and serve, with a sauce or not. One last thing: Make sure your fish are scaled, gutted and have their gills removed—you don't want to eat scales, and gills can make the fish taste bitter, so cut them out with kitchen shears. Watch out! They are sharp.



SUMMER BREWS Firefly Nights Summertime Ale Fa vor i te b eers to d r ink this season .

Firefly Night Summer Ale

ABV: 5.2% IBU: 15

Sea Salt and Lime Summer Lager

ABV: 5.2% IBU: 15 BREWERY: THREE NOTCH'D LOCATION: Charlottesville, VA

ABV: 4.0% IBU: 9 BREWERY: SHINER LOCATION: Shiner, TX

Designed by our brewmaster, Dave Warwick, while reflecting on the many summer evenings of his 12.oz / 6 Pack childhood full of firefly chasing and honeysuckle hunting, thisFlagship light ale captures that inner childhood Year Round in us all with a touch of sweet Seasonal honeysuckle.

Inspired by the Texas tradition of dressing a beer with lime and salt, this summer seasonal is brewed with real lime peel and artisanal sea salt for a crisp flavor and refreshing finish. An easy-drinking beer designed for the summer.

Draft

Limited Release Series Collaboration

ABV: 4.7% IBU: 13 BREWERY: STONE BREWING LOCATION: Escondido, CA and Richmond, VA

ABV: 5.0% IBU: 28 BREWERY: SIERRA NEVADA LOCATION: Chico, CA and Mills River, NC

In 1996, Stone Brewing was founded in San Diego County, just minutes from the border. Since then, influence from our southern neighbors has enriched and inspired us on our undying mission to brew bold, flavorful beers. One such inspiration is Stone Xocoveza, our imperial stout originally released in 2014 to bring the rich, complex flavors of Mexican hot chocolate to beer. It’s with mucho gusto that we now follow with our take on a classic lager that is similarly inspired (and tasty)—Stone Buenaveza Salt & Lime Lager.

There's something about a warm summer day that calls out for a cold glass of great beer, and this classic Czech-style lager is sure to fit the bill. Crisp, golden, and refreshing, Summerfest is the perfect choice for soaking up the sunshine. While lighter in body than other Sierra Nevada ales, Summerfest displays significant hop aroma and a tangy hop bite. The long lagering period adds a smoothness that makes this beer a great summertime treat.

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Summer Fest Crisp Summer Lager

T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N | SUMMER 2020

PHTOO BY MARISSA RODRIGUEZ, COURTESY OF UNSPLASH

T THIS BEER d by our Brewmaster, Dave Warwick, while reflecting on the many summer evenings of his od full of firefly chasing and honeysuckle hunting, this light Buenaveza ale captures that inner childhood in us Stone Salt & Lime Lager a touch of sweet honeysuckle.


PE N FO R N FO R O PE

PADDLE RS RS PADDLE

Charles County, Charles MD is County, home toMD Mallows Bay,tothe is home Mallows Ba first

national

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2000. Kayakers 2000. can explore remnants Kayakersthecan explore of thethe remnants

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Paddle near tremendous wildlife; the park inhabits Paddle near tremendous wildlife; the park in

osprey, waterfowl, bald eagles, heron, an array of and an a osprey, waterfowl, baldand eagles, heron, marine species and mammals. marine species and mammals. Once life has returned normal, cometo and create Once lifeto has returned normal, come and your own adventures, memories, and memories, stories in this your own adventures, and stories legendary place. legendary place.

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2020 SPORTSMAN GEAR PICKS Our editors field-tested some unique gear that’s ideally suited for summer—and you. REVIEWS BY ERIC KALLEN

BioLite FirePit Taking the art of making fire to the next level, BioLite’s FirePit is the perfect complement to a summer backyard barbeque, beach bonfire or off-the-grid camping trip. This awardwinning smokeless firepit can burn either standard firewood or charcoal—if you prefer a hibachi-style grill. The FirePit’s patented airflow system uses 51 jets that inject oxygen into your fire to burn off smoke before it can escape. Compact and light, the FirePit is easy to transport and setting it up is a breeze. The FirePit is the perfect fit for summer adventures that require fire—without the smoke. $249.95; bioliteenergy.com

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gear picks 2020

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Green Cove Collective, Commonwealth Crew Sock The average person takes 2,000 steps to travel a mile, so why not do it in comfort? Designed and made in Virginia, the Commonwealth Crew is a full-cushion outdoor crew sock perfect for hunters and hikers. Manufactured from the highest quality Merino wool, these socks keep feet warm and comfortable, and wick away moisture in all seasons. $18; greencovecollective.com

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Oru Kayak, Beach LT Foldable Kayak Designed for easy transport and storage, this folding kayak weighs 26 pounds and folds down to the size of a large suitcase. Made from 5mm doublelayered polypropylene, the Beach LT’s stable 12-foot hull is perfect for a day of recreational paddling. If you’re looking to get off the beaten path, the kayak’s simplicity and ease of use makes it the perfect “get in and go” boat. $1,199; orukayak.com

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Somewear Labs, Global Satellite Hotspot When your travels and trekking take you off the grid, Somewear Labs Satellite Global Hotspot is a must have device. Using the Iridium Satellite Network (which boasts 100% global coverage), the Hotspot is lightweight (4oz), user-friendly and the perfect tool to keep you in touch when you don’t have cell phone coverage. For a monthly fee, you can send and receive texts, get weather reports and track yourself anywhere in the world. And if things get really bad, the device offers SOS functionality that sends an alert through GEOS Worldwide, which is monitored 24/7. Sometimes we just need to get away, the Global Hotspot provides the peace of mind to let you get far away. $349.99 (data plans extra) www.somewearlabs.com

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RESIDENT SPORTSMAN’S LICENSE $100

Peak Design, Everyday Sling

Combining the functionality of a traditional camera bag with the stylish and sleek design that Peak products are known for, the Everyday Sling accommodates the needs of frequent shooters and travelers. Made from a weatherproof, 100% recycled shell, the bag is available in three sizes—3L, 6L and 10L. Plus, the flexible EVA foam dividers can fit a variety of cameras and lens combinations comfortably and securely. $149.95; peakdesign.com

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The Summer 2020 Issue | THE SOUND

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JASON ISBELL GETS PERSONAL ON NEW ALBUM, “REUNIONS” BY JEDD FERRIS

J

ason Isbell has set a high bar when it comes to Southern storytelling through song. The Alabama native, who grew up surrounded by the historic musical influences of Muscle Shoals, first made an impact in his early 20s as a member of the gritty country-rock outfit Drive-By Truckers, contributing beloved staples from the band’s early catalog like “Outfit” and the self-titled track to the 2003 album “Decoration Day.” In 2007 he started a solo career, which was initially stunted by his struggles with alcoholism. Despite some flashes of brilliance, Isbell’s own output didn’t fully shine until his 2013 breakout album, “Southeastern,” which chronicled, with some candid regrets, his redemptive road to sobriety. His ensuing albums, “Something More Than Free” and “The Nashville Sound,” earned Isbell four Grammy Awards and established his current place as a roots music hero. In May, Isbell released “Reunions,” his latest album backed by his steadfast band the 400 Unit and his fourth straight effort working with ace Nashville producer Dave Cobb. Throughout his new effort, Isbell continues to mix vivid snapshots of rural experience with personal examination. In the sweeping, folk-rock opener, “What've I Done to Help,” which features backing vocals from David Crosby, he questions his own social responsibility. “Be Afraid” has a similar sentiment—a rumbling anthem about facing fears and doing what one believes is right, set to a motivating backdrop of uplifting heartland rock. Isbell also addresses the lingering power of addiction in “It Gets Easier” and laments the death of an old friend from Alabama in the poignant ballad “Only Children.” “There are a lot of ghosts on this album,” Isbell said in a statement on “Reunions.” “Sometimes the songs are about the ghosts of people who aren’t around anymore, but they’re also about who I used to be, the ghost of myself. While writing I was thinking about how I could take the tools I have now, which are much better than the tools I had then, and go about building the same essential structure. I found myself writing songs that I wanted to write fifteen years ago but in those days I hadn’t written enough songs to know how to do it yet.” Throughout “Reunions,” it’s apparent Isbell has refined his craft, but what continues to resonate is his commitment to writing honest tunes.

Jason Isbell 5 Essential Songs “OUTFIT” Isbell’s first big statement as a member of Drive-By Truckers, found on the band’s 2003 album “The Dirty South,” is an earnest slice of paternal advice from his upbringing in Alabama.

“HOPE THE HIGH ROAD” A soaring rock tune with a message of perseverance from the 2017 album “The Nashville Sound” showcases the muscular proficiency of Isbell’s long-time backing band, the 400 Unit.

“ALABAMA PINES” This snapshot of small-town life from Isbell’s 2011 album “Here We Rest” is a perfect windows-down highway tune that won Song of the Year at the Americana Honors and Awards.

“DREAMSICLE” A breezy new cut from Isbell’s May-released latest album has a gentle melody but lyrically offers a raw look at the confusion kids experience when parents get divorced. “I was thinking a lot about myself and my wife because we were both very young when our parents split up,” Isbell explained. “I was blending our two stories. It’s not exactly a heartbreaking song, it’s just sort of a picture of a kid’s life. I wanted to keep the voice of the child-narrator but also retain a retrospective quality to show it’s something the child survived.”

“COVER ME UP” The soul-baring look at Isbell’s life-changing sobriety and relationship with his wife, fellow musician Amanda Shires, is the stunning breakout that catapulted Isbell towards his current status as one of roots music’s top songwriters.

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The Summer 2020 Issue | OPEN SPACES

BANJO MAN BY CHILES T. A. LARSON

T

here’s something spellbinding about listening to a banjo player who is in the mood and knows how to play. Some time ago, I had the occasion to hear a man who played with great skill. He picked up a friend’s banjo, tuned the instrument and struck a few old-time melodious ballads with consummate ease. The haunting memory of his innate gift still resonates. Recently, after rummaging through some dusty files, I discovered a number of black-and-white images and notes I had written some 40 years ago. The photos and words reminded me of how I happened to witness the impromptu concert. The experience took place during a visit to Abingdon. While there, an acquaintance of mine, Ted Blevins, told me about a celebrated banjoist who lived on a farm east of the city.

AN IMPROMPTU CONCERT BY BANJOIST JA M E S YA R B E R L I V E S F O R E V E R I N P H OTO S — AND IN THE MEMORY OF THE LENSMAN WHO TOOK THEM.

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For building your foundation

Opportunity abounds on 83+/- acres of gently rolling land surrounded by some of Albemarle County's most prestigious estates in the Carters Bridge area just south of Charlottesville. Mainly wooded with beautiful evergreens, this property offers privacy on several potential homesites.

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“W’en a Picker gits ter pickin’ An’ de banjer talks!” ANNE VIRGINIA CULBERTSON (1905)

People who knew James Yarber said he played a banjo better than anyone in the surrounding southwest Virginia countryside. Blevins told me Yarber was shy by nature—he rarely played for groups. The banjoist also preferred to stay busy in his backyard workshop, where he fashioned ladder-back chairs and other furniture in the tradition of centuries-old craftsmen. At the time, Blevins, who had recently purchased an old banjo, thought he could use it to bait the gentleman to play. When we arrived at Yarber’s farm in Glade Springs, we found him working in his vegetable garden. We approached the man, and I watched his eyes dance as they inspected the banjo. The strategy worked. Blevins explained, as he handed the banjo to Yarber, that he didn’t know how to tune it. The old man’s eyes twinkled with anticipated pleasure as he gripped the neck with his left hand and plinked the strings once or twice with this right, all the while heading for his workshop. Blevins nudged me with his elbow and winked as we followed him inside. As I recall, my reactions were somewhat mixed at this point. I was delighted that Yarber decided to play, but I was disappointed because he was going inside; I thought the lighting would be poor for candid photography. To my delight, however, we soon discovered there was a skylight over his workbench. The gentleman started picking, and sunlight fell upon his shoulders. The highlights created a fitting mood for my pictures. The musician’s shyness disappeared as he studied the banjo from behind his steel-rimmed glasses. Yarber demonstrated that calm, focused alertness that often marks a schoolteacher. Then he retreated into a realm that was only familiar to him. Yarber adjusted a banjo string, and his focused expression transformed into a brief frown that disappeared with each tuned string. The ritual continued until all strings were tuned to his satisfaction. S U M M ER 2020 | T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N

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Then, without warning or fanfare, Yarber launched into an ancient Appalachian ballad. He had a misty, faraway look in his eyes; I speculated he was trying to visualize where and when he first heard the song. I was mesmerized by the movements of his wrist and fingers. When the melody ran its course, the man made several adjustments and the mood changed with the light plinking of a cheerful air. Children, who had been playing in the yard when we arrived, had gathered by the entrance to their grandfather’s workshop to watch this unrehearsed performance. They exchanged smiles of approval as toes and heels tapped to the rhythm of his playing. Yarber played a few more tunes; in my opinion, some were quite inventive. Suddenly, with a flourish, the concert was over. The moment passed, but it was good to sit close and listen to the gifted picker play Blevin’s banjo. I am so grateful Yarber was in the mood to play—he certainly knew how and made that banjo talk. There is something to be said for saving old pictures in an orderly fashion. They jog the memory, and sometimes you can hear the music. Chiles Larson is a frequent contributor to The Virginia Sportsman. He is the author of “Virginia’s Past Today,” a series of photo essays all linked to the theme of continuance, and “Barboursville Vineyards: Crafting Great Wine Inspired by Spirits from the Past.”

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