Virginia Sportsman Summer 2021

ESCAPE TO SOMERSET, KENTUCKY | SUMMER GEAR REVIEW | WHY YOU SHOULD EAT FISH SKIN | EXTRAVAGANT KID’S VICTORY

SUMMER 2021

SAILING Getting Birdy at Primland Resort SPIRITED WHISKEYS FOR SUMMER

CROATIA’S DALMATIAN COAST WITH MOUNTAINSEA EXPLORATION

Chris Stapleton’s Latest Album “Starting Over” Hunting for Wild Ruffed Grouse and American Woodcock Downeast

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THE SUMMER 2021 ISSUE

FEATURES

34 SAILING CROATIA’S DALMATIAN COAST

Exploring miles of seafront and more than a thousand islands with Richmond native's MountainSea Exploration.

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GETTING BIRDY AT PRIMLAND

An unforgettable hunting trip to the luxe resort in Meadows of Dan.

EXTRAVAGANT KID

The unlikely champion racehorse owned by Virginia businessman David Ross wins at the Dubai World Cup.

C R O AT I A’ S C O A S T L I N E A L O N G T H E S H I M M E R I N G B LU E WAT E R S O F T H E A D R I AT I C S E A I S T H E P E R F E C T P L AC E F O R E X P LO R AT I O N .

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DEPARTMENTS THE SUMMER 2021 ISSUE

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COOL OFF ON KENTUCKY'S LAKE CUMBERLAND. PHOTO COURTESY OF S O M E R S E T- P U L AS K I COUNTY CVB

THE SOUND Country-rock star Chris Stapleton is ready to hit the road supporting his latest album, “Starting Over.”

28 FROM THE FIELD

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NEW RIFF DISTILLING'S KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY

16 RAISE A GLASS It’s no secret that Kentucky makes the world’s best bourbon.

Here are five favorite whiskeys to drink this summer.

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OUTFITTED Get in gear for your summer adventures, as our editors select their favorite apparel and equipment for sport and travel.

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Casting for landlocked salmon and brook trout and hunting for wild ruffed grouse and American woodcock are all part of the experience in the Pine Tree State.

52 OPEN SPACES A writer and photographer reflects on the road to Red Lion, a small town in Pennsylvania’s Amish Country.

54 WELL READ Our editor-at-large reviews “Salmon: A Fish, the Earth and the History of Their Common Fate” by James A. Beard Award-winning author Mark Kurlansky.

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On the Cover

GREAT ESCAPE

MountainSea Exploration offers tailored sailing experiences along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast.

Miles of undisturbed shoreline and an up-andcoming arts scene make the small Kentucky town of Somerset a perfect summer escape.

64 WELL FED It’s nutritious, delicious and holds the true character of many species.

Hank Shaw reveals how to perfectly prepare fish skin.

A Trout Reel Worthy of the Name Mirage® Proudly made in the USA

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The Summer 2021 Issue

PRIMLAND RESORT’S M A R C U S H E AT H G I V E S JOE SHIELDS SHOOTING POINTERS DURING A S P O R T I N G - C L AY S WA R M - U P F O R A P H E A S A N T H U N T.

EDITOR’S NOTE T

he Adriatic Sea separates the Italian Peninsula from the Balkans and is known for its stunning color, warm temperatures and calm currents.

According to NASA astronauts, the body of water is the bluest in the world, as seen from outer space.

Richmond native Ted Barrett is no stranger to the Adriatic and gained an intimate appreciation for its beauty by sailing along Croatia’s 3,600-mile coastline. The most famous stretch is the Dalmatian Coast, which is Central Europe’s Riviera. The region’s limestone cliffs, pebbly beaches, mild weather and scattered islands are natural wonders.

He has sailed throughout Europe and the Pacific Northwest and in many seas, including the Adriatic, Aegean, Caribbean and Sea of Cortez.

He also crossed the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and has sailed around the Arctic Circle.

“I believe the draw towards sailing for most people is getting off the grid,” Barrett said. “There’s also the autonomous feeling of it, being able to go into places most people won’t have the opportunity to see from land.”

With this philosophy in mind, Barrett launched MountainSea Exploration, an adventure travel company that offers global, tailored vacation sailing experiences, including this issue’s cover story on a voyage along the Dalmatian Coast. The company personifies this sportsman’s passions for adventure and outdoor education, as well as his other pursuits. These include back-country skiing, diving, hiking, surfing and white-water rafting.

When he’s not sailing the high seas, Barrett owns and operates The Preserve at Dundee, a historic sporting property near Richmond. The preserve’s bird-hunting grounds are open October through April, and it also serves as a wedding and events venue. We are going to feature The Preserve at Dundee in our upcoming Fall 2021 issue.

Speaking of getting birdy, this issue also profiles a pheasant shoot at

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T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N | SUMMER 2021

Primland Resort in Meadows of Dan, Virginia. The 12,000-acre property certainly has rugged terrain that appeals to humans and wildlife, but what sets the resort’s hunting program apart is the number of birds and the times they are released for hunts. As this story illustrates, roosters and hens flew like wild birds and were difficult to shoot—at least for this amateur shooter.

Lastly, and sadly, we share a brief account written by our dear friend Chiles T.A. Larson, who passed away on Jan. 22, 2021, just before his 92nd birthday. Larson was a frequent contributor to this publication. He was also the author of “Virginia’s Past Today,” a series of photo essays all linked to the theme of continuance, and “Barboursville Vineyards: Crafting Great Wine Inspired by Spirits from the Past.”

Larson always had a strong interest in sailing. He participated in two ocean-sailing races and published cover shots in SAIL, Yachting and an America’s Cup photograph in the year-end special issue of Sports Illustrated.

In 2010, the College of William and Mary’s Swem Library honored Larson with an exhibition in the Botetourt Gallery: “Wisdom, Wonderment and Humor: A Retrospective of the Work of Chiles Larson, Photographer Extraordinaire.” We were honored to include his writing and photography in our magazine.

I’ll miss our conversations and am still amazed that he knew how to work a smartphone better than me. Fortunately, our friend was prolific, and we look forward to publishing a few more samples of his work in future issues.

Thank you for reading, and I hope this issue is a welcome addition to your summer.

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The Summer 2021 Issue | THE SOUND

STARTING OVER Chris Stapleton’s Latest Album Offers a Fresh Take on the Familiar STORY BY JEDD FERRIS

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T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N | SUMMER 2021

C O U N T R Y- R O C K S TA R C H R I S S TA P L E TO N I S R E A DY TO H I T T H E R OA D S U P P O R T I N G H I S L AT E S T A L B U M , “ S TA R T I N G O V E R .”

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C

hris Stapleton started mostly behind the scenes. When the Kentucky native moved to Nashville in the early 2000s, he made his initial impact by writing songs for other artists—penning hits for George Strait, Kenny Chesney and Luke Bryan—and playing clubs as a member of well-regarded bluegrass band the Steeldrivers. That all changed in 2015 when he released his debut solo album, “Traveller,” a collection of country-rock songs full of instantly relatable heart and grit that has since gone quadruple platinum.

Now a five-time Grammy winner, BUT MASSIVE Stapleton has become a household SUCCESS HASN’T ALTERED HIS name. He headlines stadiums and AUTHENTIC SOUND—A POTENT recently appeared in a Dodge STYLE FEATURING commercial singing a vibey take on EARNEST COUNTRY Al Green’s “I’m a Ram.” But massive SONGCRAFT success hasn’t altered his authentic DELIVERED VIA THE VOCAL PIPES OF A sound—a potent style featuring BLUES VETERAN OR earnest country songcraft delivered AN R&B SINGER. via the vocal pipes of a blues veteran or an R&B singer.

Throughout his four solo albums, Stapleton—bearded and brawny—has never tried to fit the Music Row mold.

He’s stayed grounded in his Southern roots with help from steadfast producer Dave Cobb, and that holds true on his latest album, “Starting Over,” which was released last fall.

The album’s title track topped the Billboard country charts earlier this year. It’s an optimistic, easy-going anthem that’s appropriate for the present moment, and with a front-porch chord progression and singalong chorus, it recalls Tom Petty’s FM heyday. Much of Stapleton’s appeal comes from his ability to channel such comforting familiarity, also done on his new album via the muscular arena rock of “Arkansas,” a track co-written with Petty’s bandmate in the Heartbreakers, Mike Campbell.

To make the latest effort, Stapleton and Cobb returned to Nashville’s famed RCA Studio A, with some additional sessions down in Muscle Shoals. In addition to 11 fresh originals, Stapleton also included two covers of songs by his late songwriting hero Guy Clark, including a rowdy reboot of the trouble-shedding shuffle “Worry B Gone.” Once again, old influences resurface with fresh perspective.

Speaking of starting over, Stapleton has big plans to return to the stage this summer, re-launching his multi-act “All-American Road Show” in amphitheaters across the country. The trek, which is set to begin in July at Chicago’s famed Wrigley Field, will visit Virginia in late summer and early fall, stopping at Jiffy Lube Live in Bristow on August 14 and the Veterans United Home Loans Amphitheater in Virginia Beach on September 30. Stapleton is also set to

T H I S S U M M E R , S T A P L E T O N I S R E - L A U N C H I N G H I S M U LT I A C T “A L L - A M E R I C A N R O A D S H O W ” I N A M P H I T H E A T E R S A C R O S S T H E C O U N T R Y.

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perform a special home state show called “A Concert for Kentucky” at Kroger Field in Lexington, featuring support from Willie Nelson and Sheryl Crow. The benefit, which supports local organizations in the Bluegrass State, was recently postponed a year to April 2022. " S TA R T I N G OVER" S TA P L E TO N ’ S L AT E S T A L B U M WAS RELEASED LAST FALL.

Essential Songs

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“Starting Over”

This breezy acoustic song, which calls to mind “Wildflowers”era Tom Petty, is an optimistic anthem about overcoming hardship with the right partner. It’s the title track to Stapleton’s latest album, which was released last fall.

“Traveller”

The title track from Stapleton’s quadruple-platinum solo debut is a highway meditation on drifting through life where the muse calls and reveling in the joy of discovery. With a mix of old-school country songcraft and FM-rock edge, Stapleton soulfully harmonizes with his wife Morgane, creating a timeless tune about rolling with the winds of change.

“If It Hadn’t Been for Love”

This bluesy, acoustic cut found on the Steeldrivers’ 2008 selftitled album is one of Stapleton’s best from his time with the lauded bluegrass outfit. The song found a broader audience when Adele recorded a version released as a bonus track on her mega-hit album “21.”

“Broken Halos”

A true tear-jerker from the album “From A Room: Volume 1,” this ballad mourns those gone too soon and was particularly inspired by Stapleton’s Little League pal who died of cancer.

In his emotive growl, both mournful and poignant, he sings of universal remembrance with the lingering lines, “They've all gone wherever they go/Broken halos that used to shine.”

“Tennessee Whiskey”

Stapleton’s version of the old country gem “Tennessee Whiskey,” which was famously recorded by George Jones, brought him a new level of exposure, particularly after he performed the song as a rousing duet with Justin Timberlake at the Country Music Awards in 2015. •

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The Summer 2021 Issue | RAISE A GLASS

NEW RIFF'S KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY IS BOTTLED RIGHT AT 1 0 0 P R O O F. P H OTO C O U R T E S Y O F NEW RIFF

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GREAT KENTUCKY BOURBONS Our Favorite Options from the South’s Whiskey Wonderland STORY BY JEDD FERRIS

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PHOTO BY ADAM JAIME, COURTESY OF UNSPLASH

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T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N | SUMMER 2021

K

entucky may be the Bluegrass State, but it’s best known, perhaps, for a particular brown spirit. Over 95 percent of the world’s bourbon comes from the state’s 70 distilleries, more than half of which are connected by the travel-friendly Kentucky Bourbon Trail.

Whether you’re planning a whiskey tour or just want to mix a julep on the porch, we’ve rounded up a handful of our favorite Kentucky bourbons to sip this summer.

RARE BIRD AGED NO LESS THAN 10 YEARS, EAGLE RARE IS D I S T I L L E D AT BUFFALO TRACE IN F R A N K F O R T, K Y.

Woodford Reserve

Straight Kentucky Bourbon Woodford is the official bourbon of the Kentucky Derby, so you know it’s perfect for a mint julep. But among avid bourbon drinkers, it’s become a beloved staple, known as a high-quality option offered in relatively affordable bottles. Typically aged for seven years with a heat-cycling process for controlled maturation, Straight Kentucky Bourbon hits just right, with notes of toffee and cocoa, a bit of spice and a really smooth finish.

Located in Versailles, the Woodford distillery is on a historic site where whiskey has been made since 1812, and it’s an impressive stop on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail for guided tastings and tours. woodfordreserve.com

Eagle Rare 10 Year

Let’s call this the bourbon of champions, and not just because it’s earned a serious stash of awards and accolades at spirits competitions around the world. Earlier this year when Los Angeles Dodgers pitcher Walker Buehler—a Kentucky native—received his 2020 World Series ring, he commemorated the milestone by buying all of his teammates a specially-engraved bottle of Eagle Rare 10 Year. Distilled at Buffalo Trace in Frankfort, one of the brand’s more accessible bourbons is, as the name suggests, aged in oak barrels for no less than a decade, resulting in a bold, big-bodied whiskey that has layers of flavors—spicy, herbal, and a little sweet—and a crisp finish. It’s a Bluegrass State gem that’s perfect for raising a glass to a title for the Boys in Blue. eaglerare.com

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES

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Maker’s Mark Cask Strength

Made for those who dig a stiff drink, Maker’s Mark delivers with this cask-strength bourbon that comes in at 109 proof. It’s high-octane juice, for sure, but that comes with a mouthful of rich flavors, including vanilla and tingly spices. It’s a great slow-sipper on the rocks that’s widely available at a reasonable price.

The Maker’s distillery in Loretto is another popular stop on the Bourbon Trail, located on the idyllic, 1,000acre Star Hill Farm, which holds North America’s first natural water sanctuary. makersmark.com

Four Roses Small Batch

Based in Lawrenceburg, Four Roses is known for its distinctive bourbon blending. Every year the distillery makes 10 different recipes, four of which are used in the premium Small Batch, a straight Kentucky bourbon that’s extremely soft and mellow on the palette with bright notes of berries and an easy-going finish.

If you’re in search of some creative cocktails for the warm months, Four Roses offers an extensive list on the distillery’s website, including the Summer Thyme, which features Small Batch with a mix of lemon juice, Aperol, honey syrup and bitters. fourrosesbourbon.com

SUMMER THYME

Mixologist: Jason Plummer The livin’ is easy with this savory sipper. The front porch is calling.

1½ fl oz Four Roses Small Batch ¾ fl oz Aperol ¾ fl oz Lemon Juice ¼ fl oz Honey Syrup 2 dash(es) Jerry Thomas Decanter Bitters Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice.

Add a couple sprigs of either thyme or rosemary. Shake. Double strain into a rocks glass over ice. Garnish with a lemon and a sprig of your chosen herb for aromatics.

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March 2021 woodsandwatersmagazine.com

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New Riff

Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

As the owners of this Newport-based distillery describe it, they’re putting “a new riff on an old tradition.” And indeed in a land of centuries-old whiskey operations, this outfit is a youngster that opened in 2014. But that hasn’t stopped them from pursuing the highest quality of the old-school masters.

The distillery’s flagship Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey is crafted based on standards of the 1897 Bottled-in-Bond Act, meaning it’s made during a single distillation season, never blended, aged four years and bottled right at 100 proof. The result is a palette-enlightening, full-bodied bourbon with an abundance of spicy rye character and a fruit-forward finish.

In the spring, New Riff announced it will expand whiskey production by 50 percent in the near future, so the distillery’s offerings, which include a variety of ryes and a seasonal winter bourbon made with chocolate malt, will likely have broader regional reach soon. newriffdistilling.com OPENED IN 2014, NEW RIFF DISTILLING IS BASED IN N E W P O R T, K Y. P H O T O S C O U R T E S Y O F N E W R I F F

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The Summer 2021 Issue | OUTFITTED

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SUMMER ESSENTIALS Gear to Enjoy in the Great Outdoors

BY ERIC KALLEN

TAIGA TERRA COOLER [1] When it comes time to cool beverages this summer, there’s a new alternative to consider. Manufactured in the USA, the Taiga Terra hard-sided cooler is just what you need when temperatures heat up. Made with sustainable, FDA-approved polypropylene, the Terra offers a great alternative to other brands’ petroleum-based polymers. The cooler’s 27-quart size is big enough to hold 24 cans plus a bag of ice, and its two-inch-thick sides (and three-inch-thick lid) will keep drinks cold for a long time. Available in four colors, this eco-friendly cooler is good looking, durable and high performing. What else could you ask for? $199.00 www.taigacoolers.com

BUFF USA, COOLNET UV+ MULTIFUNCTIONAL HEADWEAR [2] For anyone who spends time outdoors, keeping your skin safe from the dangers of the sun is important. One of the best options

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available is the CoolNet UV+ Multifunction Headwear made by Buff USA. Lightweight, breathable and extremely functional, Buff’s Multifunctional Headwear is the perfect accessory for a day on the water, in a tree stand or sitting on the beach. With a UPF rating of 50+ and 95% of its material made from recycled plastics, it’s easy to see why the seamless, microfiber fabric is so popular with any lovers of the outdoors. $24.00-$26.00 www.buffusa.com

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PROPER JANE SHOOTING VEST [3] Designed for women shotgun shooters, the Proper Jane shooting vests offer functionality, performance and style. Available in three different models (The Allison, The Lynn and The IIiana), these vests have large pockets for shells, breathable netting for hot summer days breaking clays and a tailored modern look that offers a nice contrast to the more traditional shooting vests. $285.00 www. properjane.com

CLIFF OUTDOORS, DEYOUNG SKINNED BUGGER BEAST JR. FLY BOX [4] Made of scratch and water-resistant polycarbonate, Cliff’s Bugger Beast Jr. fly box is the perfect container for assembling your large flies and streamers. Decorated with Derek DeYoung’s artwork, this fly box is functional, durable and good looking. Inside the box (on the top and bottom) is pre-slit foam that won’t tear or rip when removing flies. If you’re looking for something a little smaller, there’s also Cliff’s Bugger Barn. Covered on the top and bottom with DeYoung’s art, the Bugger Barn is perfect for an angler who isn’t fishing from a drift boat. $40.00-$60.00 www.derekdeyoung.com

AKU, RISERVA GTX BOOTS [5] Whether searching for elk or grouse, if your trekking takes you into rough terrain, AKU’s Riserva GTX boots are just what you need.

Engineered with the backcountry in mind, the Riserva GTX boots are available in either nubuck or full-grain leather with a sturdy rubber toe for added protection. The uppers are substantial and supportive without being cumbersome, and the boot’s rugged soles offer traction on any terrain. An Italian company, AKU has been producing high-quality boots for hikers, hunters and travelers for 30 years.

AKU’s Riserva GTX is the latest addition to this company’s long line of exceptional boots engineered for the outdoors. $299.00-$389.00 www.akuoutdoors.com

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BOOST OXYGEN, PORTABLE 95% PURE SUPPLEMENTAL OXYGEN [6] Created with a variety of uses in mind, Boost Oxygen can be the perfect way to recover from a hard run, acclimate to high elevation on a ski trip or assist with recovery after a good workout. Available without a prescription, the 95% pure oxygen can provide a muchneeded boost during times of high activity or in places with poor air quality or thin air (the air we breathe is only 27% oxygen). Available in three sizes, the very portable cannisters range from 60-200 one-second inhalations depending on the size. All-natural and safe, Boost Oxygen is a great addition to a backpack, glove box or kitchen cupboard. $7.99-$16.99 www.boostoxygen.com

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THOUSAND, CHAPTER MIPS BIKE HELMET [7] Founded with the idea that a more attractive, comfortable and functional bike helmet would encourage bikers to embrace head

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Now at select Outdoor Stores

First,

Point & Click.

Then, Catch & Release.

Fish Virginia First is the place to find inspiration and trip planning resources for the best freshwater fishing in Virginia.

Great fishing begins at FishVirginiaFirst.com 26

T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N | SUMMER 2021

protection, Thousand’s Chapter Bike Helmet does just that. An oldschool look that shies away from the futuristic, boxy look of many hard-core bike helmets on the market today, the Chapter offers state-of-the-art MIPS protection and innovation on a lot of fronts. A magnetic, 50-lumen light is included with the helmet and seamlessly attaches to the back of the helmet—or a bike seat post with the included adaptor. (After all, it’s good to be seen when riding a bike.)

In addition, the helmet’s visor is removable and interchangeable if you want to switch-up your look. Capitalizing on the success of the brand’s adult helmets, Thousand recently launched a line of kids helmets (ages 6-11) called The Junior, so now the whole family can be protected and stylish on your next bike ride. $135.00. www. explorethousand.com

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ERNST SEED, VIRGINIA GENTLEMEN’S SEED MIX [9] Carefully mixed with a wide variety of native seeds, the Virginia Gentlemen’s Seed Mix is perfect for landowners looking for great ground cover, beautiful color and long life. The mix includes favorites such as Little Bluestem, Virginia Wildrye, Partridge Pea and Blackeyed Susan. Perfect for upland and meadows, Virginia Gentlemen’s Seed Mix is also a great way to give pollinators a little help. If you aren’t sure about the specifics, Ernst Seed offers plenty of help and expertise to get the right seeds in the right places. $33.50/lb. www.ernstseed.com

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SYREN, JULIA SPORTING SHOTGUN [9] A division of Italian gunmaker Caesar Guerini, Syren’s mission is to produce shotguns designed specifically for women shooters. Syren’s Julia Sporting Shotgun is a competition-grade target gun intended for a variety of female shooters, from world-class competitors to the amateur enthusiast looking to conquer the local sporting-clays course. The Julia is as beautiful as it is functional with its striking Turkish Walnut stock and intricate fantasy-style engraving depicting a woman’s face emerging from a floral scroll pattern. According to Kate Ahnstrom, a professional shooting instructor, “Syren's Julia is the epitome of beautifully crafted elegance wrapped around timeless functionality.” Available in 12-gauge with 30-inch highperformance barrels, the Julia offers a precision trigger and a reduced pistol grip that better accommodate smaller female hands.

A joy to shoot and a beauty to look at, the new offering is a fitting tribute to the gun’s namesake, Caesar’s beloved daughter Julia. $6,050.00 www.syrenusa.com

HOKA ONE ONE, SPEEDGOAT 4 TRAIL RUNNING SHOE [10] Named after the most successful ultramarathon runner ever, Karl “Speedgoat” Meltzer, Hoka’s fourth release of the Speedgoat shoe has everything you need for tackling trails. Known for their cushion and comfort, the Speedgoat has plenty of both, yet it still feels secure on rough terrain. When things get a little muddy, the Vibram Megagrip rubber outsole is secure on the descent and very grippy when climbing. Whether you are a hardcore runner, like the shoe’s namesake, or just looking for a light hiking or walking shoe, the Speedgoat has appeal for all. Available in a variety of eyecatching colors in men’s and women’s sizes, the Speedgoat should be considered for anyone looking for a smooth ride in the great outdoors. $145.000 www.hokaoneone.com

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The Summer 2021 Issue | FROM THE FIELD

OLD RUFF AND THE TIMBERDOODLE DOWNEAST STORY AND PHOTOS BY KING MONTGOMERY

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M

aine has been well known for its iconic sporting camps for more than 150 years. By 1900 there were more than 300 lodges for fishing, hunting and other outdoor activities. These camps flourished as railroads followed lumbering operations and more of Maine’s vast interior of wilderness opened to recreation. ​A typical “camp” comprises a number of log or other style cabins and a central dining lodge. Camps are often situated along a river or lake in more sparsely populated regions of the Pine Tree State, where trees cover nearly 90 percent TIMBERING of the land. Most camps are seasonal, INFLUENCES THE offering fishing from spring to fall and FORESTS THROUGH HARVEST, AND bird hunting in autumn until temperatures CLEAR-CUTTING plummet. Some camps are winterized and ENHANCES THE open year-round to snowmobilers, crossHABITAT FOR MANY SPECIES OF country skiers and other snow enthusiasts.

WILDLIFE. THESE Timbering has been one of Maine’s INCLUDE RUFFED longstanding industries, and it continues GROUSE AND THE MIGRATORY today. The practice influences the forests AMERICAN through harvest, and clear-cutting WOODCOCK, TWO FINE GAMEBIRDS. enhances the habitat for many species of wildlife. These include ruffed grouse and the migratory American woodcock, two fine gamebirds.

In Maine, many logging roads and trails, as well as an abundance of private properties, are open to the public for recreational use. This includes bird hunting during the season, which usually takes place from Oct. 1 through Dec. 31.

October in Downeast Maine is a magical time of the year and arguably the most beautiful. During this time, excellent upland bird hunting complements the stunning hues of fall and its cacophony of color.

The word “Downeast” was used in the days of sailing ships that departed Boston downwind and proceeded eastward along Maine’s rocky coast. Today it generally refers to the state’s Hancock and Washington Counties.

Landlocked salmon and brook trout season ends by Oct. 20.

Then it’s time for “Old Ruff” (wild ruffed grouse) and “timberdoodle” (American woodcock) to take the scene as sportsmen and women trade waders and fly rods for shotguns and bird dogs.

The village of Grand Lake Stream (GLS) is right in the middle of more than one million acres of prime grouse and woodcock habitat.

Most of this land is open to the public. It’s also easily accessible because hundreds of miles of logging roads and trails crisscross through the area. Plus, there are two lodges that have access to different private lands. There are opportunities for hunting with pointing or flushing dogs. Coverts can range from pretty easy terrain

OPPORTUNITIES FOR HUNTING WITH POINTING AND FLUSHING DOGS ABOUND IN THE P I N E T R E E S TAT E .

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to nearly impossible, with everything in between.

The portion of Washington County that surrounds GLS consists of forested rolling hills with numerous streams, ponds and small rivers; an exception is the larger St. Croix River that forms the border with New Brunswick, Canada. There are low, marshy areas, blueberry barrens and sections of forests in various stages of growth thanks to logging. Classic coverts abound. There are damp, mysterious alder bottoms, hardwood ridges ablaze with colors and old stone walls and foundations of abandoned farms. Most of Maine is an upland bird hunter’s paradise.

Weatherby’s and Leen’s Lodges are two well-established sporting camps with histories spanning generations. In my opinion, they are the two best full-service options in the area for upland bird hunting in the fall and superb angling in the spring, summer and early fall. I’ve stayed and hunted at both lodges and literally have had a blast. *** Leen’s Lodge sits on a peninsula that juts into scenic West Grand Lake, source waters for Grand Lake Stream. Log cabins of varying sizes straddle the water just inside the wood line. Like Weatherby’s down the road, Leen’s accommodations are old, tastefully weathered and very comfortable with all the modern conveniences. These include heat, flush toilets, water and home-style meals prepared in the dining room overlooking the lake.

I’ve shot a lot of birds thanks to pointers working the quail grounds of the South, but the gundog breed is not that common in the thick covers that hold grouse and woodcock in Maine. Here,

English setters, Brittany spaniels and German shorthairs seem to prevail. Pointers should be more common up here in the Pine Tree State. These dogs do a wonderful job, working close and efficiently in the thick tangles of succession forest growth where birds live.

Pointers are also reliable on retrieves.

Although woodcock and grouse inhabit some pretty nasty terrain, I’ve visited some large sand and gravel pits in various stages of vegetation regeneration. The pits are easy targets for migrating woodcock moving down from Canada and provide cover and softer ground for probing bills to find earthworms and grubs.

All the birds I encountered in the pits were timberdoodles, though grouse could have been there too. During a recent stay at Leen’s Lodge, I enjoyed woodcock breast appetizers in the evening before dinner. They were sautéed lightly in butter and finished with a cognac flambé just before serving. The appetizers were delightful.

Weatherby’s is an Orvis-Endorsed Lodge with 15 log cabins, a central dining room, sitting room and fly shop. Owner Jeff McEvoy is an avid fly angler and hunter of birds, waterfowl and big game such as deer, moose and black bear. He can arrange and outfit guests for all these pursuits. In the fall, his English cockers are very busy working birds in the numerous woodlands, barrens and bottoms nearby.

Hunters are permitted to bring and use their own dogs, or they can hire a guide with or without dogs. At a minimum, I recommend hiring McEvoy or one of his guides at least for the first day of your visit so you can get the lay of the land and feel of the birds. Guest’s dogs W E AT H E R BY ’ S I S A N O R V I S - E N D O R S E D LO D G E T H AT I S O N E O F T H E B E S T F U L L- S E R V I C E O P T I O N S D O W N E A S T F O R U P L A N D BIRD HUNTING AND ANGLING.

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Tales To Tell

All Your

Friends.

BATH

You’ll enjoy the fresh mountain air and breathtaking scenery. Reel in a few big trout and suddenly, you’ve got a fishing trip for the record books.

That’s a Made in Bath County experience.

DiscoverBath.com · 540-839-7202 · #MadeInBathVA

Your Parks Your adventures

800-933-PARK (7275) | www.virginiastateparks.gov | Know Before You Go — Recreate Responsibly

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stay in the cabins with their owners at both GLS lodges.

At Weatherby’s, sumptuous, hearty, home-style breakfasts and dinners are served in the dining room, and most hunters choose to a take a basket lunch to the field for a midday break. I always take a thermos of hot coffee too because it helps cut the chill of a crisp and clear fall Maine morning.

On a recent hunt, I discovered grouse and woodcock on the hillsides and near the tops of rises in a mixed forest of hardwoods and softwoods. Timberdoodles seemed to like the gnarly raspberry bushes interspersed with passé goldenrod. The grouse preferred tangles of young birch. Both birds often cut through or over the vegetation to fly hard along old skidder trails and logging roads.

Today, approximately 100 Maine camps remain in operation.

Many belong to the Maine Sporting Camp Association. The internet and the Maine Tourism Office are excellent resources for finding the grouse and woodcock hunting lodges of your dreams.

As an old quail, chukar and pheasant hunter, I have time-worn memories. But as a relative newcomer to the forestland birds of the North such as Old Ruff and the timberdoodle, I also have the imagination of a young hunter trying something new and exciting.

My home in Maine is within hours of many fine sporting camps. And being a “sport” is not a bad thing at all.

King Montgomery is a freelance outdoors/travel writer and photographer, a retired Army officer, an avid bird hunter, waterfowler and fly angler. His works have appeared in a number of national fly-fishing and bird-hunting publications, including The Virginia Sportsman, Upland Almanac and Covey Rise. He is a contributing editor for Fly Fish America magazine and writes his popular monthly “Sportsman’s Journal” column in The Maine Sportsman magazine.

Maine Office of Tourism: 1-888-624-6345, www.visitmaine.com. Search for Maine Sporting Camps and a list will come up.

Maine Sporting Camp Association: www.mainesportingcamp.com. Provides listing and contact info on about 40-member sporting camps.

Leen’s Lodge: 1-800-995-3367, www.leenslodge.com.

Weatherby’s Lodge: 1-877-796-5558, www.weatherbys.com

L E E N ’ S LO D G E S I T S O N A P E N I N S U L A T H AT J U T S I N TO S C E N I C W E S T G R A N D L A K E , S O U R C E WAT E R S F O R G R A N D L A K E S T R E A M . T H E LO D G E I S A N OT H E R G R E AT O P T I O N I N T H E A R E A FOR HUNTING AND FISHING.

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S A I L T H E A D R I AT I C S E A W I T H M O U N TA I N S E A E X P LO R AT I O N ’ S C U S TO M V OYAG E E X P E R I E N C E S .

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Sailing Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast with MountainSea Exploration

RICHMOND NATIVE’S ADVENTURE TRAVEL COMPANY OFFERS TAILORED EXPERIENCES AT SEA STORY BY JOE SHIELDS

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T

ed Barrett is a sportsman who has a passion for the outdoors and exploration.

His 20-year resume with leading adventure-travel outfits says it all: Action Quest; Broadreach; Costa Rica Outward Bound; Nautilus Sailing and NOLS. Barrett’s varied career includes stints as a sailboat captain and guide for a variety of outdoor activities, including backcountry skiing, surfing, whitewater rafting, hiking and scuba diving.

From the mountains of Colorado and Vermont, to the Caribbean shoreline of Costa Rica and now his native Richmond, Barrett has lived a life of travel, outdoor education and adventure. MountainSea, his adventure travel company that offers global, tailored vacation experiences, personifies his passions and pursuits with unique sailing voyages in different parts of the world.

“I believe the draw towards sailing for most people is getting off the grid,” he said. “There’s also the autonomous feeling of it, being able to go into places most people won’t have the opportunity to see from land.”

One of those destinations is Croatia, a country at the crossroads of Central and Southeast Europe on the Adriatic Sea. Croatia is a paradise naturally blessed with thousands of miles of seafront and more than a thousand islands. The nation’s coastline is Central Europe’s Riviera, and its pebbly beaches, mild summer weather and stunning mountains are treasures.

MountainSea’s inaugural voyage took place there in 2017, when Barrett and his team took an adventurous group from Colorado and Utah on a sailing trip along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. The most famous and touristed stretch of Croatia’s 3,600-mile coastline, the Dalmatian Coast is home to dramatic limestone cliffs and scattered islands that dazzle the eyes in the country’s southernmost region.

“Astronauts say the Adriatic is the bluest sea on Earth,” said Barrett, “and there are a lot of locations in this world you can only access from the ocean. Sailing gives you the ability to travel to those spots and see them in a unique way. Croatia is one of the top destinations in the world and offers all the opportunities many people look for in adventure travel.”

Barrett said the group on that maiden voyage loved adrenaline, and that’s what they found in Croatia. MountainSea customized the trip to include climbing, cliff jumping, deepwater soloing, submarine-bunker exploring, snorkeling, standup paddle boarding and halyard swinging.

“That first sailing adventure in Croatia was a blast. We were caught off guard by the rich night life, historical town visits and the gourmet local cuisine. One of our guests was an avid climber who brought her own gear on the trip. She scaled a 60-foot cliff on the island of Hvar, and we documented the feat from the yacht while motoring below in the Adriatic Sea. For me, that highlight was really something, and it just goes to show how we can tailor these global vacation experiences to meet the needs of our clients.”

Offered June through September, the Croatia voyage involves one week of luxury sailing that begins in the historic city of Trogir with visits to the islands of Vis, Hvar and Šolta. Starting at $2,950 per person, the package includes seven nights in a single or double occupancy cabin with a queen bed and private, en suite lavatory and shower. The package also offers a culinary experience with exquisite meals prepared by Chef Sarah Leone, a Belgian who uses local ingredients and adjusts the menu by season and location.

W I T H I T S S T U N N I N G S C E N E R Y A LO N G T H E A D R I AT I C S E A , C R O AT I A’ S D A L M AT I A N C O A S T I S O N E O F T H E T O P D E S T I N AT I O N S I N T H E W O R L D.

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(TOP) SAILING LETS YOU GET OFF THE GRID AND INTO PLACES MOST PEOPLE WO N ’ T H AV E T H E OPPORTUNITY TO SEE FROM LAND. (BOTTOM) SPORTSMAN TED BARRETT FOUNDED M O U N TA I N S E A E X P LO R AT I O N TO SHARE HIS PA S S I O N F O R T H E OUTDOORS AND A DV E N T U R E T R AV E L WITH OTHERS.

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C R O AT I A’ S R E S TA U R A N T S AND NIGHTLIFE MAKE THE D E S T I N A T I O N T R U LY S P E C I A L .

“One thing that sets the Croatia voyage apart is the meals,” added Barrett. “For the other MountainSea destinations, which include voyages in the Bahamas, French Polynesia, Grenadines, Italy’s Amalfi Coast, Puerto Rico, St. Martin and Leewards, Sea of Cortez and the U.S. Virgin Islands, meals are typically served on board. But the magical thing about Croatia is the food that is served in local restaurants, which is often paired with the Rakjia liquor that’s popular in the Balkans..”

Guests are in capable, safe hands with Captain Colin Kurcz, director of sailing operations, who is a trained boat captain with expert knowledge of the Dalmatian Coast. He guides tours on shore and on luxury sailing vessels, including monohulls or catamarans. For the Croatia voyage, he captains a comfortable 2019 Fontaine Pajot Saba 50 Sailing Catamaran.

A typical Croatia voyage may look something like this.

Day One: Trogir Guests meet with the MountainSea team at the Marina Baotić in Trogir at 5:00 pm. Trogir is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a Croatian jewel. Known for its mix of Renaissance, baroque and Romanesque buildings, the historic city is situated on a small island connected to the mainland and the island of Čiovo by bridges. The 13th-century Cathedral of St. Lawrence is home to the Renaissance Chapel of St. John and offers sweeping views from its bell tower.

Guests are welcomed with a champagne toast before settling into their cabins. The evening also entails a visit to a local restaurant for dinner.

Day Two: Komiža MountainSea sails southwest to Komiža, a city on the western side of Vis. Guests can take the helm, learn how to sail or relax and enjoy the day at sea. On the way to Komiža, the catamaran stops at the Blue Lagoon for swimming and snorkeling in crystal-clear water. Once in Komiža, guests can walk along the waterfront and explore the enchanting Mediterranean village. Chef Leonet serves dinner onboard the catamaran and guests can explore the local nightlife.

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C R OAT I A O F F E R S ADVENTURE S E E K E R S P L E N T Y, E S P E C I A L LY I F THEY ENJOY ISLAND HOPPING AND CLIFF DIVING INTO THE A D R I AT I C S E A .

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Day Three: Blue Cave and Vis The day begins with a visit to the Blue Cave on the island of Biševo. Guests can explore the natural phenomenon on a small boat. The afternoon includes sailing to Vis, which was for many years the military and naval headquarters of Tito’s army and was closed to the public until 1989.

While there, MountainSea stops at a submarine bunker that was used by the Yugoslavian army.

The group also explores the tunnel system that cuts through the island. Later, Kurcz moors at the wall in Vis so guests can visit the restaurants, fortress, monastery and wineries. At night, the group dines at Darko’s, a legendary restaurant with only a handful of tables that spends the whole day preparing food for an intimate number of guests.

Day Four: Šcedro From Vis, MountainSea sails to Šcedro, a protected nature park with hidden coves and superb anchorages. Guests enjoy frequent stops for swims and have the opportunity to hone their sailing skills if they choose. Once moored in the bay, guests can paddleboard, snorkel or sunbathe on the deck. The day ends with a gourmet meal onboard.

Day Five: Hvar MountainSea sails from Šcedro to Hvar. On the way, the group visits the island of Paklinski Otoci. There, guests can relax, hike or snorkel after lunch. Then the catamaran heads to Hvar for an early afternoon arrival. Hvar is an interesting place where guests can explore a castle, enjoy the town and see the sunset from the Hula Hula Beach Bar. Day Six: Šolta After a lazy morning and breakfast, the group heads for a swim in the “third bay from the right” on the south end of Šolta. Later, they sail to the west end of the island to a large natural bay for a Mediterranean Mooring. The bay is 60 feet deep and is the perfect spot for kayaking and snorkeling before dinner and a night under the stars unfiltered by light pollution.

Day Seven: Trogir Swimming and kayaking are a perfect fit for the morning of the last day. After lunch, MountainSea sails back to the marina in Trogir. There, guests can explore in the afternoon and visit points of interest they may have missed on the first day. The final dinner at another local restaurant is the perfect opportunity to share stories of a memorable voyage.

“Some people book the trip so their whole family can learn how to sail,” Barrett said.

“Others just want to relax, take in the scenery and enjoy local food and drink. We can modify any adventure. Either way, you’ll get an unforgettable education sailing with us along the Dalmatian Coast.”

Visit MountainSeaExploration.com for more information.

Joe Shields is the editor in chief of The Virginia Sportsman. He is a writer and marketing executive based in Charlottesville, Virginia. His writing and photography have appeared in The Virginia Sportsman and other publications. He is also a gallery-represented artist whose work is found in private collections and several galleries in Virginia. Whether fly fishing or surfing, drawing or painting, he celebrates sporting life and culture in his narratives and art.

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Getting Birdy in Virginia at Primland Resort STORY BY JOE SHIELDS

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EDITOR IN CHIEF JOE SHIELDS AND PRIMLAND G U I D E M A R C U S H E AT H FOLLOW POINTERS BART AND WINNIE DURING A P H E A S A N T H U N T.

G

undogs are always fun to watch. I followed Bart and Winnie as they scampered along a bush-hogged pathway that cut through a waist-high field of millet and sorghum. Severed plant stalks crunched beneath my boots. Despite the earplugs, I heard the rustling of crumpled brush beneath their paws and the voice of Marcus Heath.

“Look at Winnie,” he said. “She’s gettin’ birdy. Work your way right behind her and get ready. You’ll have a shot.”

A rooster pheasant suddenly disrupted the grasses and soared above the trail. I rotated the gun to fire as it headed for the tree line. I squeezed the trigger, but it didn’t move.

“Happens to the best of us,” said Heath.

I noted the safety on the Beretta Silver Pigeon 12-guage over/ under and wouldn’t make the same mistake twice. (I repeated the error an hour later.) I shrugged my shoulders and rolled my eyes.

Heath smiled. Then he told me to cross the trail and make my way over to the tree line.

“We’ll get in there and see if we can flush them back out for you.”

Primland Resort’s top guide called Bart and Winnie to action, and they entered the woods as if they understood English. Moments later, another rooster flew from the trees, and the black-and-white pointers tore after the bird. I squeezed the trigger twice, and tail feathers scattered in the air.

“You winged him, but you got him,” Heath said. The rooster fell

from the sky and Winnie retrieved. The guide stuffed the downed gamebird in the back pouch of his jacket. “Nice shot. That was a tough one. There’s a lot of birds here right now, and they’ve been out here for a while. And there’s abundant ground cover. That makes them behave and fly like wild birds when they’re flushed, which makes this more challenging than what you might be used to.”

Eric Kallen, an accomplished photographer and our magazine’s editor-at-large, joined me on the trip to Primland to take pictures for this article. As we walked in the field, Heath explained we were fortunate. The week before our arrival, the resort released more than 1,000 pheasants to accommodate a large hunting party.

I listened as Heath called Bart and Winnie. Noses to in the air, the pointers zig-zagged through the brush with focus. It was enjoyable to witness the dynamic union of genetics and training as the pair worked the field.

“Look—Bart’s on another one,” Heath said calmly.

Winnie joined in, and another rooster took flight. I missed the first shot but dropped the bird with the second. Bart retrieved and Heath pocketed a second pheasant.

“These dogs are something, I said.”

“We’ve gotten nine puppies out of Bart and Winnie. I’m grateful to them and they do a good job.”

A few minutes later, the dogs got birdy on a hen. She darted from a tree, and I quickly put her down.

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(TOP LEFT) BART RETRIEVES A ROOSTER FROM THE FIELD. (RIGHT) THE LODGE AT P R I M L A N D OFFERS CASUAL AND S O P H I S T I C AT E D DINING, AS W E L L A S A S PA , SWIMMING POOL A N D F U L LY EQUIPPED O B S E R V AT O R Y. (BOTTOM) PHEASANTS ARE BEAUTIFUL AND TA S T E G R E AT.

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We moved on to a second field using a second set of pointers: Maude (black and white) and Lulu (brown and white). The trails were a bit wider in the field, and we saw plenty of birds. Maude and Lulu did their jobs, but I failed a few times at mine. They flushed birds, but their flight patterns were challenging for a novice like myself. I shot two more and we called it a day. *** Kallen and I arrived at the luxe Primland Resort in Meadows of Dan on March 15 for a two-night stay. At 12,000 acres, the property is so large there are two entrance gates. We arrived at the North Gate, which is best for lodging, spa and dining guests; the South Gate, in Claudville, Virginia, close to the North Carolina border, is better for hunters, shooters and sport riders.

We checked into our rooms in Bluebird, one of the Pinnacle Cottages that offers sweeping views of the valley 2,800-feet below.

I stayed in an eco-friendly Dan River suite that features 982 square feet of living space with large, covered decks that are 248 square feet. The master bedroom and bath are separate from the expansive living room, wet bar and gas-burning fireplace. I don’t think I’ve stayed in a nicer “room” anywhere.

The Lodge is within view of my deck and a 10-minute walk from the Pinnacle Cottages. That evening, our itinerary began with dinner in the Lodge’s 19th Pub. Casual, cozy and COVID-19 friendly, we sat on barstools at a table in front of the bar. Even though we were surrounded by craft beers, single-malt scotches and top-shelf spirits, we tried Primland’s famous select moonshine cocktails, which harken back to the region’s rich bootlegging history.

Kallen and I started with an appetizer: Joyce Farms chicken wings with buffalo sauce. Our server Adam recommended them, and they were smoked to perfection. He was spot-on with his pub fare picks too: slow-cooked farmhouse chicken, Flat Iron steak frites and

peanut butter pie for dessert.

After dinner, we were scheduled to visit Primland’s fully equipped Observatory, which is adjacent to the Lodge. Unfortunately, because of poor weather and visibility, we had to skip stargazing.

Kallen enjoyed it on a previous visit, and he said the experience is something else. The resort’s altitude and clear vantage point, combined with its Celestron CGE Pro 1400 and CPC 800 telescopes, give guests extraordinary glimpses of the heavens—stars, planets, nebulae and amazing celestial objects with an absence of ambient light—and beyond our solar system.

The next morning, we ate breakfast in the Lodge’s Elements restaurant before heading to the Outdoor Activities Center at the southern end of the property for an RTV (rough terrain vehicle) excursion and sporting clays. Primland is a member of the National Sporting Clays Association and offers sport shooters 14 stations over a mile-long course.

Heath worked with us on five of the stations as an instructional warm-up shoot for the hunt. After educating me and refining my technique with expert pointers, we ate at the Woodland Grille back in the Outdoor Activities Center. The Grille is a great place for a light lunch and gave us a nice break before the afternoon pheasant hunt.

That evening, we had a private dining experience at the Lodge’s new Schlumberger Wine Cellar, which seats up to 10 guests. This intimate and modern space features varietals from the world’s finest vineyards, including Domaines Schlumberger, Primland’s sister property in France’s Alsace region.

The menu was equally stunning and prepared by Elliot Cunniff, newly appointed executive chef. Cunniff dazzled us with a special six-course meal: Asparagus; Scallop Crudo; Linguine Cacio e Pepe; Stuffed Quail; Fluke Grenobloise and Lemon Panna Cotta for dessert.

His creations that evening were nothing short of masterful, and we chose to pair the meal with a 2014 red Burgundy.

On the day of our departure, we returned to Elements for

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(TOP LEFT) THE LODGE’S NEW SCHLUMBERGER WINE CELLAR OFFERS A P R I VAT E D I N I N G EXPERIENCE AND S E AT S U P TO 1 0 GUESTS. (RIGHT AND BOTTOM) PRIMLAND’S 12,000-ACRE RESORT OFFERS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE, INCLUDING WORLD-CLASS G O L F, S P O RT SHOOTING, F LY F I S H I N G , HORSEBACK RIDING AND MORE.

breakfast before meeting with Chandler McGrady, assistant to Primland’s VP Steve Helms. We piled into one of the resort’s 4x4 SUVs that are required to reach the Tree Houses. Guests who stay in one of the Tree Houses can use one of the SUVs during their entire stay.

Perched on the edge of the mountains and a short drive from the Lodge, Primland’s three Tree Houses are intimate cabins built around the solid branches of treetops. Rustic yet plush, Barn Owl, Cooper’s Hawk and Golden Eagle each offer breathtaking views of the majestic Kibler Valley 1,500 feet below, as well as the North Carolina piedmont from a private deck.

McGrady also gave us a tour of the Fairway Cottages. The refined duplex cottages feature stone walkways, hardwood floors cathedral ceilings, Tennessee field stone fireplaces and private decks with views of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

“The COVID-19 pandemic gave us a chance to enhance the property,” said McGrady. “Last year, we closed in March and reopened in May. During that time, we pressure-washed the Lodge, upgraded our booking system and outfitted rooms and cottages with Lenovo tablets for access to amenities. We also opened the new Bootleggers Outdoor Gym and Fitness Trail with eight workout

stations built into the landscape. Some guests embrace the outdoors, especially now. So the trail offers yoga, balance beams, pullup bars, and more. Our resort combines the natural world with luxury, and we’ve been busy ever since we reopened.”

When we checked out, McGrady had five dressed pheasants for me ready to go in a cooler. Back home, my friend prepared the birds with her great-grandmother’s recipe. We wrapped the breasts with turkey bacon and cooked them with celery, carrots, onion and fresh chopped chives. The sauce was out of this world—a blend of sour cream, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, butter and salt and pepper. And so was my hunting trip to Primland Resort.

Visit Primland.com for more information.

Joe Shields is the editor in chief of The Virginia Sportsman. He is a writer and marketing executive based in Charlottesville, Virginia. His writing and photography have appeared in The Virginia Sportsman and other publications. He is also a gallery-represented artist whose work is found in private collections and several galleries in Virginia.

Whether fly fishing or surfing, drawing or painting, he celebrates sporting life and culture in his narratives and art.

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EXTRAVAGANT KID AT THE DUBAI WORLD CUP S T O R Y B Y J O H N K E L LY

WHEN YOU ARE FLYING 14 HOURS, IT PAYS TO GO FIRST CLASS. As in, feet never touch the tarmac level first class, where you are literally lifted from the ground into your spacious cabin on a state-ofthe-art jet, surrounded by your fellow Very Important…Passengers.

Such was the treatment afforded Extravagant Kid, the unlikely champion racehorse owned by Virginia businessman David Ross, as this most precious cargo was loaded onto a specially designed plane owned by the Vice President, Prime Minister, and Ruler of the Emirate of Dubai. Sheik Mohammed sent the plane to Miami International Airport to ferry the horse and his fellow American contenders on the journey to the 25th Anniversary Dubai World Cup in March. There, on March 27, he would vie to become the first American horse ever to win the $1 Million Al Quoz Sprint.

For Ross, and highly-acclaimed Irish trainer Brendan Walsh, Extravagant Kid was a sort of longshot from the start, and so far, he had done nothing but exceed expectations. Ross acquired the horse for a price of $75,000 in 2018. “Investing in a horse that is already five-years-old is not something you generally think about, but I saw that he had only run in Florida,” Ross said. “I studied his numbers and focused on his back form. I also saw he had some time off between races, and when you add in his pedigree it looked like he had a lot of talent to run on the dirt and on the turf. I also really liked him for all-weather, which he had not had any of in Florida. So I went ahead and made the investment.”

Ross doubled down on that investment by reaching out to Walsh, with whom he had enjoyed success in the past, including a Breeder’s Cup Marathon victory with Scuba and three back-to-back stakes wins with Honorable Duty. “Brendan is doing magnificent things with his horses and I have certainly benefited from that. There is so much trust needed in that relationship,” Ross said, “and I am really fortunate to work with him and his team.”

Leading up to Dubai, Extravagant Kid had earned $1,001,610 from 49 starts, including 14 wins and 16 runner-up finishes. He had been consistently knocking on the door of Grade I success.

Yet, while there was plenty of reason for optimism as Ross and Walsh awaited word on their horse’s arrival in Dubai, there was also reason for concern around Extravagant Kid’s international debut. “You can’t predict how a horse is going to handle a trip like that,” Ross said. “We were extremely fortunate that he handled it magnificently and seemed to enjoy every minute of the experience.”

The proof came in a video Ross received the next day of the horse taking a playful roll in the Dubai sands. One of the challenges of this particular sprint race, Ross said, is the track format. “It’s a complete straightaway of 1,200 meters, which is just under six furlongs.” Other tracks at this distance, including Santa Anita and Keeneland, include turns, and even hills. Walsh told Virginia Horse Racing prior to the race that the format was perfect for Extravagant Kid, and that the novelty alone would likely give him a boost. The horse is so smart, Walsh said, that he and his team like to change things up just to keep things interesting, and that this straight six-furlong-track might just do the trick.

Walsh uniquely understood the challenges of the Dubai World Cup, having won there previously. “What is important about this race,” Ross said, “is that you really have to have a notion of where the speed is. You have to be a good student in handicapping where that speed is going to be, or else you could be left in a bad position.”

They were fortunate to have the right man to make these calculations in the talented jockey Ryan Moore, a fellow Irishman.

A S S I S T A N T T R A I N E R / E X E R C I S E R I D E R C H A R L I E LY N C H H E L P S P R E PA R E V I R G I N I A’ S O W N E X T R A V A G A N T K I D F O R H I S H I S TO R I C R U N I N T H E $ 1 M I L L I O N A L Q U O Z S P R I N T AT T H E 2021 DUBAI WORLD CUP IN MARCH.

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Fortune smiled again when it came time for the draw. “Brendan explained that we really needed a right-of-center draw,” Ross shared.

“There was a notion that the stand-side rail was actually more speedfavoring than the infield-side rail. Being right of center would give us the flexibility to adjust if the speed went to the inside without losing too much ground.” They received the number 8 post in the 13-horse field.

Walsh’s prediction proved spot on. The race opened with two groups forming on the stand and infield sides, respectively, then a third group, including Extravagant Kid, which began moving from the infield stands across the center to the stands side. As Ross and his wife Dana looked on trackside, they saw a dream unfold as their horse burst through in a historic moment of victory that to this day feels surreal. “I watch some of the videos of us watching the race and I wonder who is doing all the screaming? Then I realize it’s my wife.”

The international shockwaves the victory sent out into the world were felt strongly here in the Commonwealth. Winning such a prestigious race with a horse boasting such deep Virginia roots was special, Ross said, and marks an important step in a years-long effort to support and advance horse racing here. “We have been working very hard to bring the shine back to Virginia racing and the Virginia horse industry that was lost with Colonial Downs closing down. We are now doing exceedingly well here in Virginia, and I am very optimistic about the future. Ross, who is President of the Virginia chapter of the Horseman’s Benevolent and Protective Association (HBPA), gives credit for the resurgence to colleagues including

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Executive Director Frank Petramalo, Jr. of the HBPA, and the Virginia Thoroughbred Association (VTA), led by Debbie Easter, as well as the Virginia Equine Alliance (VEA), under the leadership of Executive Director Jeb Hannum. He also cited industry-leading incentive programs for people to breed horses here and to bring young horses to Virginia farms in advance of their racing careers.

As for his newly-minted international champion, Ross said “I don’t think we will ever see another one like him.” Extravagant Kid’s future, he said, is up to Walsh, and to the horse himself. “We are getting great reports that he is fresh from his trip and has enjoyed being a ham from all the attention he has received. He is back on the work tab and we are going to see where we go with him, he added, citing an invitation to Royal Ascot. “He has accomplished everything he needs to accomplish here. I do not feel like we are pressed. The horse will tell Brendan if he is ready and Brendan will tell me, and we will support whatever they suggest we do.”

John Kelly is a contributing editor of The Virginia Sportsman. He is a writer and public-relations professional based in Charlottesville, Virginia, whose work has appeared in the UVA Arts Magazine, Albemarle Magazine and USA Today, among other publications.

Kelly also works regularly throughout Central Virginia as a singersongwriter and recently released an album of original songs titled "In Between."

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The Summer 2021 Issue | OPEN SPACES

THE ROAD TO RED LION “The road is always better than its inn.”

—Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra— STORY AND PHOTO BY CHILES T.A. LARSON

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I

didn’t initially plan on visiting a place called Red Lion, but I was drawn there anyway. Haven’t you ever studied a state highway map of an area and allowed your eyes to roam freely, looking for communities previously unknown to you?

If you haven’t you should try it sometime. It’s certainly a learning experience.

Some location names catch you by surprise: Cuckoo, Blue Anchor and Accident. Others have a lilting, melodious sound: Brandywine, Cumberland, Greenbrier, Shenandoah and Albemarle.

You’ll also discover some places are branded with flat, no-nonsense names such as Mechanicsville, Central Garage, Oilville, Cashtown and Fairplay. There’s even a Chilesburg of all things. Most of these destinations have one thing in common—they’re off the beaten path.

Playing with maps is exactly how I discovered Red Lion, Pennsylvania, which is situated east of Interstate 83, just above the Maryland-Pennsylvania line. While planning a trip to the Amish Country, I was searching for a quick, direct route; I also wanted to leave open the possibility of an unscheduled, circuitous journey that would make the passage more interesting. My camera was at the ready, and I was excited to record any points of interest that came my way.

Several hours before dawn, I left home with high expectations so I could take advantage of the early morning light and have a go with my camera. However, I began to waiver in my initial thinking hours into my drive. It was pitch dark. The monotonous constancy of the interstate was unnerving; the true scale of the impending and ongoing distance became more apparent with each mile. I wasn’t quite sure if I would travel all the way to Red Lion. It was beginning to seem very unlikely.

But suddenly, I spotted mist with my peripheral vision. I watched as it slowly rose over the rolling countryside and defined the tree lines

behind a farmhouse. The beauty of this unusual autumn dawn caught me by surprise. Then I noticed the pale light of a bare lightbulb on the dwelling’s porch, and it changed the course of the day.

I stopped the car, put it in reverse and returned to what was to become my first photographic study. Through the viewfinder I saw a picture: the dawning of a new day. The solitary light shined like a beacon; from the darkness it signaled proof of life.

My high expectations returned. I exited the interstate to find the road to Red Lion.

I took a number of pictures during the next several hours. These included a farmer posing with his young colt and a bright red barn framed by a leafy dell. The twisting country road itself also provided composition.

I exhausted the morning and some film before I even arrived in Red Lion. On the outskirts of town, I photographed a historic marker.

The object satisfied my curiosity; Red Lion was founded in 1736 and was named after an old inn that once stood nearby.

There was no doubt in my mind that Red Lion had an interesting history. Had I known then about H. L. Mencken’s delightful yarn, “The Girl From Red Lion, P.A.,” I might have stayed longer to see what had become of her. Perhaps it’s better not knowing.

The fact there’s little else to recall about Red Lion is not important. It only reinforces the adage, “The road is always better than its inn.”

From experience, I believe Don Quixote was on to something.

Chiles Larson was a frequent contributor to The Virginia Sportsman.

He is the author of “Virginia’s Past Today,” a series of photo essays all linked to the theme of continuance, and “Barboursville Vineyards: Crafting Great Wine Inspired by Spirits from the Past.” Larson passed away on Jan. 22, 2021, just before his 92nd birthday. His stories and photographs live on.

(LEFT) THE DAWNING OF A N E W DAY; A S O L I TA R Y LIGHT SHINES LIKE A BEACON. (RIGHT) A FARMER POSES WITH HIS Y O U N G C O LT.

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The Summer 2021 Issue | WELL READ

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AN AUTHOR'S CALL TO ACTION “Salmon: A Fish, the Earth and the History of Their Common Fate” by Mark Kurlansky REVIEW BY ERIC KALLEN

M

ark Kurlansky is a New York Times bestselling and James A. Beard Award-winning author whose recent book, “Salmon: A Fish, the Earth and the History of Their Common Fate” (Patagonia, March 2020), focuses on the saga and plight of one of nature’s greatest fish. He has published more than 30 books over a long and storied career, including “Cod,” “Salt: A World History,” “The Big Oyster,” “1968,” “Milk!: A 10,000-Year Food Fracas” and “The Unreasonable Virtue of Fly Fishing.”

Kurlansky is known for his attention to detail, thorough research and unique multi-century storytelling. “Salmon” is a work that lives up to his reputation. Attractive enough to reside on your coffee table but small enough to fit on a shelf, the book’s 448 pages are filled with more than 150 photographs and illustrations that provide additional insight into the chronicle of these fish and their interaction with man.

An angler himself, Kurlansky writes with passion about the struggles that salmon face in nature and at the whim of humans. These fish encounter many of the same environmental challenges as people, such as the ravage of climate change, yet are victim to significant pressures caused by over-fishing, dams constructed in their spawning rivers, contamination from hatcheries, fish farms and industrial pollution. ( L E F T ) S A L M O N C O N S E R VAT I O N AC T I V I S T M I K A E L F R O D I N R E L E A S I N G A N A T L A N T I C S A L M O N O N T H E A LT A R I V E R I N N O R WAY / P H OTO BY B E N M O O N . ( R I G H T ) T H E N U S H AG A K R I V E R F L O W S I N T O B R I S T O L B AY, A L A S K A . P H O T O B Y MICHAEL MELFORD

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COHO FRY SOON AFTER EMERGING F R O M T H E G R AV E L I N T H E Q U I N SA M RIVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA / PHOTO BY EIKO JONES

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H ATC H E R Y F I S H B E I N G P U M P E D I N TO S A N F R A N C I S C O B AY, C A L I F O R N I A .

PHOTO BY BEN MOON.

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PINK SALMON SWIMMING UP L AW S O N C R E E K T O S PAW N U N D E R THE NORTHERN LIGHTS / PHOTO

BY CHRISTOPHER MILLER

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A BEAR LINES UP A COHO IN THE G R E AT B E A R R A I N F O R E S T, B R I T I S H COLUMBIA. BY IAN MCALLISTER

Humans have introduced these ongoing insults to their reality.

If we don’t take measures to reverse the harm, these pressures may ultimately lead to their demise. And no one understands this precarious situation better than Kurlansky.

“Salmon travel,” he writes. “A king salmon will swim for four years at sea and travel some ten thousand miles. At sea, salmon contend not only with the many predators, but also with storms, occasional lack of food, unpredictable climate shifts, and sometimes pollution.

But it is in returning to the river that they undertake their most extraordinary journey, one from which they cannot be deterred even though in the end it leads to death.”

With their connection to fresh and salt water, and their reliance on marine and terrestrial ecology, salmon are in a unique position as a proxy to measure the health of our planet. They are a true indicator species, and their plight has significant implications.

Kurlansky offers a wake-up call as he describes the scope of the problem we are facing. “How many species do we lose when we lose a salmon?” he writes. “And how many others do we lose from losing those?”

The author’s concerns are substantial and worthy of notice.

One of Kurlansky’s colleagues, and the man to whom he dedicated

this important work, is the late Icelandic conservationist Orri Vigfusson. Known for his business-like approach to preservation, Vigfusson was one of salmon’s greatest allies who created new and innovative solutions. Notably, he focused on buying fishing rights from commercial fishermen, thereby saving millions of endangered North Atlantic salmon. His efforts also prompted other important conversations about finding new ways to help these fish survive.

While the labors of those fighting for salmon are heroic and necessary, Kurlansky’s call is more serious. Climate change is real and calls for comprehensive and substantial action. His observations and ultimate warning in the book are ominous.

“Humanity’s grasp on the planet is not strong. It is growing weaker. Our population is too large for safety and comfort.”

In these pages, Kurlansky puts us on notice. The time to act is now. While Vigfusson and others have taken steps to help protect salmon, more work needs to be done.

Kurlansky’s plea is simple and direct: “If salmon don’t survive, there is little hope for the survival of the planet.”

Learn more and buy the book at Patagonia.com/shop/books.

Eric Kallen is Editor-at-large of The Virginia Sportsman

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The Summer 2021 Issue | GREAT ESCAPE

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APPALACHIAN CHARM Summer in Somerset, Kentucky STORY BY ELLEN KANZINGER

F

rom miles of undisturbed shoreline to a burgeoning arts scene, Somerset, Kentucky offers the perfect summer escape. Lake Cumberland lies to the southwest and Daniel Boone National Forest to the east, and there are scenic spots to explore around every corner. Plus, downtown offers a delightful array of dining spots, refreshing taprooms and vivid murals.

Where to Wander

Whether you prefer to fish, paddle, boat or swim, Lake Cumberland will delight every water lover, especially when it comes to escaping the summer heat. Adam Jones, owner of Sweet Clover Fishing Guide Service, leads guided fishing trips on the lake “KENTUCKY HAS and below the dam.

REALLY PROTECTED “Kentucky has really protected this little THIS LITTLE JEWEL jewel in the mountains to keep it pristine and IN THE MOUNTAINS TO KEEP IT PRISTINE scenic,” he said. “There’s nowhere you can’t AND SCENIC. THERE’S NOWHERE go on that lake that’s not out of a postcard.”

With over 50,000 acres to explore, there YOU CAN’T GO ON THAT LAKE THAT’S are numerous spots on the lake and side NOT OUT OF A POSTCARD.” creeks to discover for yourself.

“The river that comes out of Cumberland below the Wolf Creek Dam is some of the best trout fishing on our side of the country,” Jones said.

There are also dozens of waterfalls in the area as water drains from the mountains into the reservoir, making sightseeing a top activity on the lake.

Somerset is also known for the Master Musicians Festival, scheduled for July 16-17, 2021. Julie Harris, vice president of the all-volunteer board of directors, said the festival, now in its 28th year, was started as a way to bring a wide variety of music to southeastern Kentucky at an affordable price.

“At its core, the festival is about supporting musicians locally,” she said. “In Kentucky, there has always been a prominent music scene, but in the last few years, have seen significant growth, particularly in the Americana genre.”

In addition to a main stage with headliners like The Wooks, Blues Traveler, The Steeldrivers and Devon Gilfillian, two side stages focus on introducing audiences to regional artists and the sounds of Kentucky.

Harris has seen the evolution of the festival firsthand. Her father was on its founding board of directors, and she was part of the

S W I M B E N E AT H WAT E R FA L L S A N D PA D D L E M I L E S O F SHORELINE ON LAKE CUMBERLAND. PHOTOS COURTESY OF S O M E R S E T- P U L AS K I C O U N T Y C V B

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audiences that got sneak peeks at some of today’s biggest Americana and bluegrass stars. Tyler Childers, Punch Brothers, and The Avett Brothers are just a few of the acts that played the festival’s stages before stardom struck.

“We try to encourage people,” Harris said, “that even if you don’t know these folks on our lineup, to come and listen because you never know who’s really going to make it big after they’ve played on our stage.”

Other highlights to visit while in town include General Burnside Island State Park, Haney’s Appledale Farm and 27 Drive-In Theater.

Where to Eat

Get your morning started with one of Amon’s Sugar Shack’s famous hot glazed donuts (made fresh every day) or a filling breakfast sandwich.

When you’re looking for a place to get out of the sun, Jarfly Brewing Company serves up refreshing home brews and snacks. Additionally, Tap on Main Brewing has everything from craft beers, wine, and, of course, bourbon to sip on.

Where to Sleep

The mountains and waters of southeastern Kentucky allow for some memorable nights away. At Lake Cumberland, known as the "Houseboat Capital of the World," Harbor Cottage Houseboats features a wide variety of rentals that’ll have you feeling right at home on the water in one of their spacious and luxurious boats, which include full baths, rooftop decks and more. If you prefer to stay on solid ground, Lake Cumberland Resort III offers a scenic stay on the edge of Daniel Boone National Forest.

F R O M B OAT I N G A N D T U B I N G TO F I N D I N G T H E B E S T S P OT TO CAST A LINE, LAKE CUMBERLAND OFFERS SOMETHING FOR E V E R Y O N E I N T H E F A M I LY . P H O T O S C O U R T E S Y O F S O M E R S E T PULASKI COUNTY CVB

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The Summer 2021 Issue | WELL FED

WHY YOU SHOULD EAT FISH SKIN Crispy fish skin is one of the great joys of eating, at least to me.

Done properly, it is almost as good as crispy chicken skin. Almost.

STORY BY HANK SHAW

S

o why eat fish skin?

First, it’s delicious. I even like it when it’s not crispy because it adds a certain lush stickiness to a dish.

Second, fish skin holds the true character of many species. Some fish, like salmon or tuna, have fat in their meat. Many, like walleye or seabass or smallmouth bass, do not. The only fat they have is in the skin.

Much of that fat will be those healthy omega-3 fatty acids we’re all looking for. Fish skin is also high in vitamins D and E, as well as some trace nutrients like iodine.

The collagen in fish skin is believed to help maintain and rebuild our own skin, which is a nice side benefit… says the guy with arms that have seen decades of summer sun while fishing.

Good Fish Skin

Before we go any further, I am talking here about fish that have already been scaled and cleaned. Very few fish, notably salmon, trout and mackerel, are fine to eat unscaled — and even these are improved with scaling. (And yes, you can eat fish scales, but that’s another post.)

Which fish have the best skin to eat? The aforementioned salmon, trout and mackerel, for starters.

I have eaten the skins of hundreds of species of fish, freshwater and salt. They range from amazing to vile. We’ll get to the gross ones in a bit. In general, any bass or bass-like fish will have skin that is good to eat: Largemouth and smallmouth bass, white bass, striped bass, seabass of any kind, and all the little panfish (crappies, bluegills, etc.)

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Ditto for any perch, and that includes walleye and sauger.

Pacific rockfish skin is excellent, as is that of any sort of snapper or mackerel, not just the little ones. The skins from the various drum species — redfish, speckled trout, croakers, freshwater drum, etc. — are excellent, but many of the larger drum have heavy scales that are a beast to remove. Eating salmon skin is arguably the most popular, and for good reason. It’s fatty, and if seared crispy, you basically have a salmon potato chip.

Another category of fish skin is the heavy skin group. These are all fish with thick skins, some so thick you can make leather out of them. Triggerfish, swordfish, sturgeon and sharks spring to mind, as do cobia, mahi mahi and really large jacks.

With these species, you actually want to treat their skin like pork rinds, by boiling the skin for a few minutes, scraping off any stray fat or meat, drying the skin completely, and then deep-frying it so it puffs like pork rinds.

Bad Fish Skin

Not all skins from all fishes are tasty treats. They generally fall into two categories: Weird texture and downright harmful or nasty.

Most familiar with most people will be catfish and eels. Neither have scales and both are pretty slimy. The skin from any really mucus-y fish can be difficult to work with, although they are all still edible. I have one recipe that uses catfish skin, a Vietnamese claypot catfish, and there the gelatinous nature of the skin actually helps the dish. But these cases are rare.

Yes, you can deslime any fish or eel and eat the skin — generally by scrubbing with lots of salt. If you’ve ever eaten unagi, the Japanese barbecued eel, you’ve eaten eel skin.

T H E R E A L S TA R I S THE FISH SKIN THIS IS A SLAB OF GRILLED ALMACO JACK, A DELICIOUS, S E M I -T R O P I CA L FISH I CAUGHT IN F LO R I DA . S E E T H AT C R I S P Y , S L I G H T LY CHARRED SKIN? IT W A S T H E B E S T PA R T. S A LT Y, C R U N C H Y, A L I T T L E F AT T Y, W I T H A HIT OF BLACK P E P P E R AT T H E E N D. P H O T O B Y H O L LY A .

HEYSER

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SIMILAR TO PORK RINDS, FISH SKIN CHIPS ALSO H AV E A N O H SO-SLIGHT BRINY THING GOING ON. YOU KNOW IT’S FISH, BUT IT IS NOT FISHY IN A BAD W AY. P H O T O S B Y H O L LY A .

HEYSER

The skins from some flatfish can be both slimy and tough. Halibut, especially. This is why you rarely see halibut with the skin on. Same goes for codfish.

In some cases, notably carp, the skin just tastes bad. Muddy, or in the case of bluefish, fishy in a bad way — unless it is handled well and perfectly fresh. Monkfish skin is vile. I find that the skins from largemouth bass caught in warm water are not very nice. Cold water fish don’t have this problem.

The downright harmful fish skins are from those fish either living in polluted waters, or those that bioaccumulate mercury or other heavy metals. Tuna would be Exhibit A here. It is a general rule that if you are fishing in a place where there are health advisories for eating fish, remove the skin.

Will one meal of, say, striped bass skin in a place like the San Francisco Bay hurt you? No. But many will.

Capturing the Crispy

OK, so you have a skin-on piece of fish and you want to get it crispy.

Here’s how to go about it.

First, scrape it with a butter knife before you even salt it. You’ll pick up any stray scales and remaining slime this way. Salt the fish at least 10 minutes before you cook it, and, if you salt lightly, up to a day in advance — keeping the fish in the fridge.

Then, before you cook it, scrape the skin one more time, then pat it dry with paper towels. Let the fish come to, or at least towards,

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room temperature. Ice cold fish hitting a hot pan will cause it to shrink and curl violently.

Get your pan hot. Then add high smoke point oil, such as safflower, canola, grapeseed or rice bran oil. Get that hot. When you see the slightest wisp of smoke, set the fish skin side down.

Weigh it down! This is very important. You can do this with your spatula, but I prefer to use a bacon press. They also make a version of a bacon press called a fish weight, which is basically a burger press.

Leave the weight on for a minute or two, then you can slide it off.

Now, just baste the exposed fish with the raging hot oil until it turns opaque. You are ready when the fish skin is caramelized and the piece of fish comes off the pan easily.

Salt the skin the second it comes off the heat, and serve skin side up.

Hank Shaw is a chef, hunter, angler, forager and wild-foods expert constantly on the lookout for new things to gather, catch and eat. He is the author of four wild-game cookbooks: “Hunt, Gather, Cook: Finding the Forgotten Feast” (2011); “Duck, Duck, Goose: Recipes and Techniques for Ducks and Geese, both Wild and Domesticated” (2013); “Buck, Buck, Moose: Recipes and Techniques for Cooking Deer, Elk, Moose, Antelope and Other Antlered Things” (2016); and “Pheasant, Quail, Cottontail: Upland Birds and Small Game from Field to Feast” (2018). He is a contributing editor at The Virginia Sportsman.

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