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Saint-Alban sur Limagnole
Aumont Aubrac
Javols
Nasbinals
VIA DOMITIA
Mende
Remarkable Sites
Lanu jols
Banassac
THE ROADS TO SANTIAGO The Route of Le Puy
Al s
The Route of Arles The Route of the Pyrenees Piedmont Villeneuve les Avignon
THE MIDI CANALS
Pont du Gard
N mes
The Midi Canal Saint-Michel de Grandmont
The Robine Canal The Rh ne-S te Canal
Saint-Guilhem le D sert
Lod ve
Lunel
Montpellier Montferrand Le seuil de Naurouze
Saint-Papoul
B ziers
Foncaude
Amphoralis
Carcassonne La Cit
Castelnaudary
Murviel les Montpellier B ziers Les 9 cluses de Fons ranes Valmagne Le pont-canal sur l'Orb Villa Loupian Nissan lez Ens rune Le tunnel du Malpas
Homps Ancien carrefour Villelongue commercial Caunes Minervois
Ens rune
Narbonne
Fanjeaux
Fontfroide Saint-Hilaire
Lagrasse
Sigean
Perpignan Marcevol ' ('
Cabestany
Ille sur T t Elne
,' bd
N
Saint-Michel de Cuxa Serrabonne
Saint-Genis des Fontaines
Saint-Martin du Canigou
Font Romeu
Arles sur Tech
Les Cluses
Beaucaire
Nages et Solorgues
Lattes
Villeneuve l s Maguelone S te
Agde cluse ronde Mus e de l'Eph be
Aigues Mortes La Cit
Saint-Gilles
EDITO E
xperience the Pathways of History in Languedoc-Roussillon. As the perennial crossroads between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, situated between the Iberian and Italian peninsulas and with Northern Europe looking over her shoulder, the region of Languedoc-Roussillon is crisscrossed by important historical routes where human settlement and societies were located and developed. The Via Domitia, the route to Santiago-de-Compostela and the Midi Canal constitute the backbone of this region noted for its rich historical and cultural heritage. The Via Domitia was created to assure communication with Rome and to enable the movement of chariots and Roman legions. It is the oldest Roman road in Gaul, and it very quickly became a vector for the economic development of the major cities in the region. Prime evidence of Roman genius, the Via Domitia still retains portions of the original route as well as even more remarkable structures, such as bridges and milestone markers, two thousand years after its construction.
Itineraries known since the beginning of the 11th century, the Routes to Santiago-de-Compostela were utilised by thousands of pilgrims travelling from all over Europe. The route from Le Puy-en-Velay, known as Via Podiensis, and the route from Arles, known as the Via Tolosana, cross the region of Languedoc-Roussillon. Along these spiritual highways, an exceptional and particularly Roman sacred heritage still flourishes. Several stops are considered an absolute must for visitors, such as the Abbey Church of St. Gilles or the Abbey of St. Guilhem-le-D sert, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Favoured by hikers, these pathways are beloved by both religious and secular travellers.
Summary
The Midi Canal, constructed under the Reign of Louis the 14th and under the supervision of engineer Pierre-Paul Riquet, is the oldest canal in Europe still in use. The canal enables river traffic to take a direct route between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. More than three hundred works of engineering art, ranging from bridges, aqueducts and pools, were required for the construction of the canal. They are evidence of the constructive genius of the French people. With as much as 110 tonnes of merchandise and nearly 100,000 passengers transported every year, the canal has had a major impact on the economic boom of Languedoc-Roussillon before facing competition from both railways and autoroutes. Today, the Midi Canal enjoys a new existence as a tourist river.
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Via Domitia The Midi Canal The Roads to Santiago
zone 4 zone 1
10 11 12 13
At the crossroads of history Interview of Herv Durand Remarkable sites Highlighted events, activities and products zone 2
14 15 16 17
Roads of charm and wonder Interview of J r me Billod-Morel Remarkable sites Highlighted events, activities and products zone 3
18 19 20 21
Hints of the eternal Interview of Caroline de Beaulieu Remarkable sites Highlighted events, activities and products
9 ^ h X d k Z g i ] Z E V i ] l V n h d [ = ^ h i d g n d c
l l l# h j c [ g V c X Z # X d b
22 23 24 25
In the heart of Lauragais and Minervois Interview of Jean-Claude Carri re Remarkable sites Highlighted events, activities and products zone 5
26 27 28 29
From the Sea to the Mountains Interview of Patrick Chappert-Gaujal Remarkable sites Highlighted events, activities and products zone 6
30 31 32 33
Paths of History in Loz re Interview of G raldine Mallet Remarkable sites Highlighted events, activities and products
34 Contacts Design and Production: Photo Credits: P. Palau, B. Liégeois, D. Faure, F. Laharrague, M. Monticelli, C. Bertrand.
3
E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
VIA
l a n g u e d o c - ro u s s i l lo n
Javols
Mende Lanu jols
Banassac
VIA DOMITIA Remarkable Sites Visible remains of the Via Domitia
Al s
The Roads to Santiago The Midi Canals
Pont du Gard
N mes Nages et Solorgues Ambrussum Lunel
Montpellier Murviel les Montpellier
Villa Loupian
B ziers Ens rune
Amphoralis
Carcassonne
Narbonne
Sigean
Perpignan ' ('
,' bd
N
Les Cluses
4
Le Perthus
Pinet
S te
Mus e de l'Eph be
Lattes
Beaucaire
DOMITIA The genius of the Romans In building the Via Domitia, the first Roman highway in Gaul, beginning in the year 121 B.C., the Romans followed in the footsteps of their Etruscan, Phoenician and Greek predecessors who had woven the first commercial links with the Oppida dwellers of Gaul, living in communities perched in the highlands. At that time, several urban centers already existed in the region. Agde was founded by the Greeks in the 7th century. Ensérune and Abrussum were Oppida dwellings whose inhabitants gradually moved onto the plains. Nîmes was a fortified Gallic town and Béziers and Castelnau le Lez were two other Oppida communities. The building of the Via Domitia assured the development of these sites, and it brought about the building of new cities, like Narbonne, which was founded by the Proconsul Domitius in 118 B.C. The Via Domitia became the backbone of Languedoc-Roussillon, along which cities prospered. The hinterlands prospered too. Toward the interior of the department of H rault, the landscapes of the Languedoc plain spread out still today just the same way they were modeled by the Romans, as they planted vineyards and olive trees there.
It is also on all sides of the Domitian Way that the Roman civilisation left its most beautiful remnants in Languedoc-Roussillon, like the Pont du Gard, the Ambroix Bridge above the Vidourle, the urban planning of the Oppidum of Ambrussum, and the Roman fortresses of the Cluses in the Eastern Pyrenees. Some cobblestone stretches laid 2,000 years ago still line the Via Domitia, and one can still make out the ruts dug by the chariot wheels of antiquity. Today, to follow the Via Domitia is to relive more than twenty centuries of history!
5
E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
The l a n g u e d o c - ro u s s i l lo n
Mende
THE MIDI CANALS The Midi Canal The Robine Canal The Rh ne-S te Canal
Al s
Remarkable Sites Port with marina services The Roads to Santiago Via Domitia
N mes
Beaucaire Bellegarde
Aigues Mortes La Cit Lunel
Montpellier Montferrand Le seuil de Naurouze
Nissan lez Ens rune Le tunnel du Malpas
Carcassonne Castelnaudary
La Cit
Homps Ancien carrefour commercial
Argens Minervois
Narbonne
Gruissan Le Somail Ancien relais de poste
Perpignan ' ('
N
6
,' bd
S te
Marseillan
Portiragnes Colombiers Villeneuve les B ziers
Port la Nouvelle
Lattes
Carnon Palavas les Flots
Capestang-Poilhes
Bram Tr bes
M ze-Bouzigues
Gallician
Le Grau du Roi
B ziers Les 7 cluses de Fons ranes Le pont-canal sur l'Orb
B ziers
Mauguio
Agde cluse ronde
Saint-Gilles
Midi Canal A lasting monument to ßowing water What a contrast these calm waters of the Midi Canal suggest compared to the years of gargantuan labour required to complete this project! As one glides down the “Royal Canal between two seas,” one can still imagine the sounds of shovels resonating along this worksite that required more than twenty years’ labour, from 1666 to 1680. More than 12,000 workers were mobilised to complete the canal under the direction of the ingenious Pierre-Paul Riquet. Nothing could stop Béziers’ native son, especially on his own lands in Fonsérannes, where a twenty-one metre drop required the construction of the spectacular stairway of “Nine Locks.” Listed on UNESCOÕs registry of World Heritage Sites, the Midi Canal is also the realisation of a very ancient dream, originating in Antiquity to link the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. This dream became a reality by the will of Louis the 14th. Its splendour reveals itself today along its waterfront, from the Gothic Collegial Church in Capestang to the Greek city of Agde and its Fort Brescou built over the sea, passing by the Cathedral of B ziers and the nature preserve of Roque-Haute, near Portiragnes.
the way to the Canal of the Rh ne in S te and the Canal of the Robine, between the Mediterranean and the ponds of Languedoc. Visit the pond at Thau, with its oyster parks, the fishing boats and fishing villages, then the ponds at Vic, Arnel, P rols and de lÕOr up to the fields of reeds of the Little Camarague. Along the barge bridge, the spectacle extends beyond the banks: bulls are raised, the horses of the Camargue roam and pink flamingos take flight in the setting sun.
Prestigious monuments located in lush green landscapes, this watery promenade extends all
7
E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
en RouTe To l a n g u e d o c - ro u s s i l lo n
Saint-Alban sur Limagnole
Aumont Aubrac
Nasbinals
Mende
THE ROADS TO SANTIAGO The Route of Le Puy The Route of Arles
Al s
The Route of the Pyrenees Piedmont Villeneuve les Avignon
Remarkable Sites Via Domitia
N mes
The Midi Canals
Saint-Michel de Grandmont
Saint-Guilhem le D sert
Saint-Gilles
Lod ve
Lunel
Montpellier Villeneuve l s Maguelone
Valmagne
B ziers
Foncaude
Villelongue Caunes Minervois
Saint-Papoul
Carcassonne Fanjeaux
Narbonne Fontfroide
Saint-Hilaire
Lagrasse
Perpignan ' ('
Ille sur T t
Marcevol
,' bd
N
Cabestany
Serrabonne
Elne
Saint-Michel de Cuxa Saint-Genis des Fontaines Saint-Martin du Canigou Font Romeu
8
Arles sur Tech
S te
SanTIaGO de ComposTela Sacred Itineraries The routes and trails follow a serpentine path across hills blanketed in scrub, vineyards and orchards. Landscaped by inhabitants over the course of centuries, these pathways make their way through solid rock, wrapping around cliffs, and then descend into more gentle lands to proceed through sweet valleys. Pilgrims left traces of their passage, delighting today’s visitors with the construction of river crossings, bridges, church towers, monasteries, crosses, chapels, oratories, abbey churches, basilicas, and other works built to honour the relics of St. James in Spain, the ultimate aim of the journey. All through the Middle Ages, Santiago-de-Compostela was the most important of all the destinations for pilgrims coming from all over Europe. Therefore, given the power and beauty that still emanate from these paths, UNESCO did not hesitate to register them on the list of mankind’s World Heritage sites.
Simply start the journey at any point along the route between Loz re, Arles and the Pyrenees and you will be carried away by the savage beauty of the landscapes.
Bridge, dating from the 11th century, crosses superb limestone gorges, witnesses to the natural obstacles that daunted pilgrims of times past.
The attractions along the way follow in a succession. They remind travellers that they are remnants of a highly colourful past.
Further still, in the valley of St. Guilhem-le-D sert, the former Abbey of Gellone is an extraordinary testament to the earliest southern Roman art.
The medieval city of St. Gilles, in the Gard, offers visitors the iconographic wealth of its ancient Roman abbey church. In H rault, the DevilÕs
One of the oldest and most beautiful hiking paths in the world continues to share its secrets and its treasures with those who travel its trails.
9
ZONE 1
E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
AT The cRoss Mende
Al s
N mes
Montpellier tpellier
B ziers
Narbonne Carcassonne La Cit
Perpignan
History has forever marked the pathways of Languedoc, from Beaucaire, Aigues-Mortes and N mes. One need only tread over some of the cobbled stretches of the Via Domitia at Ambrussum to make a leap back 2,000 years into the past to a time when Roman legions en route to Spain crossed over Gaul. Grandiose vestiges evoke this period, like the Pont du Gard, part of an aqueduct that carried water to the city of N mes, or the Gates of Augustin and France which marked the entrance of the Roman road into the city of N mes, or better still the three milestone markers of Beaucaire which indicated distances along the ancient route.
1 Aigu ze La Roque sur C ze
Al s Villeneuve l s Avignon
N mes
Ar nes Maison Carr e Tour Magne Mus e arch ologique
Pont du Gard
Mas des Tourelles Nages et Solorgues Oppidum de Nages
Villetelle
Remarkable Sites
Beaucaire
Bornes milliaires Mus e arch ologique
Bellegarde
Oppidum d'Ambrussum
Montpellier
Port with marina services Hiking Cycling
Lunel
Most beautiful villages of France
Saint-Gilles
Cities and Lands of Art and History Listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO
Abbatiale
Gallician
Lattes
Great Sites of France
Aigues Mortes La Cit
' ('
N
,' bd
The Roads to Santiago Via Domitia The Midi Canals
10
ZONE 1
Roads of HIsToR Y
A number of centuries later, pilgrims took up where the soldiers left off. On foot, they followed the trail of Santiago-de-Compostela, reviving the tradition of the great travellers. The abbey church of St. Gilles was one of their stops. A true jewel of Roman art, it was a mandatory stopover in the Middle Ages to reaffirm oneÕs faith along the sacred journey. In its crypt one finds the tomb of St. Gilles, a famous local hermit. This tradition of travelling was perpetuated in the 18th and 19th centuries with the creation of an exceptional river route, the Rh ne Canal at S te, which has today become a natural extension of the Midi Canal. Today, the barges and boats float along with the current between the ponds and the Mediterranean Sea, between sand beaches and reeds. This is a chance to discover pink flamingos, herons and other egrets, from the pond at Thau to Beaucaire and the Rh ne.
I N T E R V I E W
Herv Durand maintains ancient winemaking tradition ÒThe Via Domitia was only cobbled at the entrance and exit of towns,Ó explains Herv Durand. More often than not, it was made of earth or gravel, like on this pretty section near Beaucaire, which boasts one of the most beautiful milestone markers, the heritage of Roman emperors, who intended to leave their personal imprint. These limestone blocks, chiselled with care, indicated distances to voyagers who were travelling from Italy to the Iberian peninsula. In treading along this route, travellers follow in the footsteps of the merchants or Roman legions that travelled along these ÒhighwaysÓ of antiquity. A stoneÕs throw from the Via Domitia, Herv Durand helps visitors step back in time. They go back 2,000 years, to a time when wine was ßavoured with honey and when the Roman Empire was at the height of its power.
The Villa of Tourelles is intimately linked to this path. To understand the life of this historic site, one must go back 2,000 years. The Cella Vinaria of the vineyards still bears testament to this period. It is here that the Romans made
their wines ßavoured with strange essences, like the honey mulsum, the aromatic turriculae ßavoured with walnut or the quince ßavoured carenum. With the help of researchers from FranceÕs National ScientiÞc Research Centre, we are able to recreate these drinks, so it is possible to taste them. Every second Sunday in September, the ancient wine cellar comes back to life. They crush grapes originating in a vineyard that remains faithful to the ways of the Roman era. Stocked in amphoras built on site, the wine was transported via the Via Domitia or by the Rh ne to be sent on to Germany, Italy and England. As they were great lovers of exceptional works of art, the Romans would without doubt have appreciated the Rh ne Canal in S te and the Midi Canal for travelling and for transporting their commercial goods.Ó
11
ZONE 1
E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
AT The cRoss REMARKABLE SITES The archaeological site of Ambrussum in Villetelle Ambrussum, a Gallo-Roman Oppidum hanging over the Vidourle, was a relay stage on the Via Domitia. One of the most beautiful cobblestone stretches on the road is found there, climbing toward the town perched above. N mes: history of the Romans... Today, the atmosphere in N mes still reßects Roman history. The Via Domitia entered the city by AugustinÕs door and The Pont du Gard exited the city by the Door of France. Symbol of Roman genius, the Pont du Gard is the most beautiful vestige of an The arena of N mes, gladiators aqueduct built to bring water into the city and architectural genius Built in the 1st century A.D., the am- of N mes. Exhibitions and displays bring phitheatre of N mes is the worldÕs best to life a site that is unique in the world. conserved Roman arena. It is evidence of the talent of the engineers of that period. Open to visitors, today the site hosts shows, bullÞghting and concerts. The Square House in N mes One of the best conserved Roman temples was used for various functions over the course of centuries. Today it houses temporary exhibitions and a projection on a giant screen of the 3D Þlm ÒHeroes of N mes.Ó
The Constance Tower and the Ramparts of Aigues-Mortes FortiÞcations dominate the Camargue, between sands, salty marshes and ponds. Oppidum of Nages A stroll around this site nearby the Via Built to protect the port and the city, the Domitia is an absolute must. Set off to Constance Tower was the major defendiscover the vestiges of the Oppidum. sive fortiÞcation of the city. You will Þnd a superb panorama of neiThe Abbey Church of St. Gilles ghbouring villages. A jewel of Roman art, since the Middle Ages, the Abbey Church of St. Gilles has Beaucaire, entryway to the Via Domitia been a major stop en route to Santiago de in Languedoc-Roussillon A section of the Via Domitia, marked by Compostela. It is famous for its sculpted three military milestone markers, offers gate and its renowned ÒSt. GillesÕ screw.Ó evidence of the passage of the Romans as they set off for N mes. The Rh ne Canal at S te and a marina are proof of the importance of Beaucaire along these communications routes. DonÕt miss the Auguste Jacquet Archaeological Museum.
The Magne Tower in N mes Highest point in the city, the Magne Tower is situated atop the de la Fontaine Gardens. Part of the Gallic Wall, its height was raised by the Emperor Augustin to serve as a lookout post and to alert the The Tourelles Farmhouse (Beaucaire) nearby sanctuary of imperial worship. What was once a Gallo-roman villa offers Roman wine tasting, discovery of an reThe archaeological museum of N mes Here, time has stopped to reveal an ex- constructed Roman wine-press and even traordinary collection of antiquities and grape harvesting ÒRoman styleÓ every sethe most important collection of Latin cond Sunday in September. inscriptions in France.
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Chartreuse of Villeuneuve les Avignon Founded by Pope Innocent the 6th who bequeathed it to the Order of the Chartreux.
HIGHLIGHTED EVENTS Fridays Beautiful Quays of Beaucaire Music, shows and an artisanÕs night time market energize the city in summer. Forum Ugernum, Roman cultural park in Beaucaire The historical park brings the Roman world to life with gladiator combats and artisan workshops. This is a true voyage back in time. Roman Grape Harvest at the Tourelles Farmhouse in Beaucaire Grape harvesters dressed in the cucullus of the slaves play the role of agriculture workers in a Gallo-Roman wine-cellar, following the wine-making process using methods of the period. St. GillesÕ Nights This summer festival offers diverse and international musical performances. Concerts are given by professional artists in sites of historical importance. Thursdays in N mes In summer starting at 6pm, the city offers an entire series of events, including concerts, night time markets, amusing and educational workshops for children, etc.
A C T I V I T I E S
A N D
P R O D U C T S
F O R
ZONE 1
Roads of HIsToR Y S A L E
ÒROMAN NëMESÓ TICKET Includes visit to the Arena, the Square House and the Magne Tower. ROMAN WEEKEND WITH NëMES PASS With the Roman Pass, discover monuments and museums of N mes via the Pont du Gard. It also includes: one night hotel stay with breakfast, starters and Roman dinner, offered by the Tourism Bureau. RIDDLE HUNTING IN THE ARENA OF NëMES A booklet for children distributed free at the entry to the Arena leads visitors on an exciting scavenger hunt. THE EAGLES OF BEAUCAIRE This show features raptors in free ßight, and is hosted by falconers in Roman garb, with musical background, within the walls of the Royal Castle. DISCOVERY ZONE AT THE PONT DU GARD This fun-Þlled universe is devoted to learning and aimed at children aged 5 to 12. There are themed visits designed for discovery and fun. MEMORIES OF THE SCRUBLANDS Outdoor educational visit. Self-guided and free access. CINEMA: 25-minute Þlms celebrate the Pont du Gard, blending documentary and Þction like ÒThe Ship of Gardon,Ó by Robert Pansard-Besson. ÒLEARN THE STORIES OF BEAUCAIREÓ AND ÒLEARN THE STORIES OF NëMESÓ General and special themed discovery visits and events for young people organised by these Cities of Art and History. THE ISLES DE STEL BARGES Cruises on the Rh ne-S te Canal, within the Lands of Little Camargue, narrated by Òa native sonÓ of the area.
DID YOU KNOW ? > Roman art and sculpture in St. Gilles The fa ade of the Abbey church is the largest sculpted collection from the Roman period in Mediterranean Languedoc. Its three gates, separated by columns, are inspired by Roman triumphant arches. > The Rh ne Canal in S te This canal, crossing a backdrop of great coastal ponds of the Camargues, is the logical prolongation of the Midi Canal. It took more than a century and a half to see the Rh ne and the Garonne rivers rejoined. > A civilisation of waters With their aqueducts, thermal baths, fountains, cisterns and wells, the Romans consumed ten times more water than do Europeans today. Pipes distributed water inside cities and dwellings. > The ÒBridge of AmbrussumÓ in the Fabre Museum Gustave Courbet was fond of this Roman monument. It inspired one of his paintings, exhibited today in the Fabre Museum in Montpellier. > Via Domitia The Roman Road was not paved all along its length, but especially when it entered and exited populated areas and when there were steep descents. 13
ZONE 2
E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
Roads of cha Mende
Al s
N mes N
Montpellier
B ziers
Narbonne ne Carcassonne La Cit
Perpignan
Along these pathways, one is taken into another world. In museums and exceptionally important sites between Montpellier, S te and Lod ve, these routes tell a legendary history. Vestiges of the Via Domitia can be glimpsed in the scrub forests or in the vineyards. The route from Arles to Santiago-de-Compostela is marked with beautiful Roman edifices like the Abbeys of Valmagne and St. Guilhem or the Priory of St. Michel-de-Grandmont. The silhouettes of pilgrims of the Middle Ages seem to rise up in the curve of a pathway, between pine trees, juniper and shrub oak. These dry landscapes exhale wild perfumes of lavender and thyme.
2
N mes
Saint-Guilhem le D sert Abbaye de Gellone Clo tre & mus e lapidaire Pont du Diable
Lod ve
Murviel l s Montpellier
Cath drale
Oppidum
Soumont
Montpellier
Mus e de l'Histoire Eglise Saint-Roch
Lunel
Prieur de Saint-Michel de Grandmont
Lattes
Mus e & site
Loupian Villa gallo-romaine
P zenas
B ziers
Le Grau du Roi
Villeveyrac Abbaye de Valmagne M ze-Bouzigues
Pinet Coupe de la Via Domitia
Agde Ecluse ronde
Remarkable Sites
Carnon Palavas
Port with marina services Hiking
Villeneuve l s Maguelone
S te
Cycling Most beautiful villages of France
Ancienne cath drale
Cities and Lands of Art and History Listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO
Cap d'Agde Mus e de l'Eph be ' ('
N
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The Roads to Santiago Via Domitia The Midi Canals
14
ZONE 2
Rm and WondeR One passes through villages with names like Loupian, Pinet, Montbazin, Poussan, M ze, Montagnac, St. Thib ry, Murviel, and Villeveyrac, reminiscent of the tunes of Brassens or Boby Lapointe, both of whom came from the region. One can follow in the footsteps of pilgrims journeying to Spain up to the gothic cathedral St. Fulcran in Lod ve, a City of Art and History. Some visitors will prefer to let the gentle waters of the canal take them from S te and the Rh ne in the East, or toward the Midi Canal and the Garonne, via the pond at Thau in the West. Other unforgettable journeys are available for voyagers of the 21st century.
I N T E R V I E W
J r me Billod-Morel : ÒThe Force of CenturiesÓ ÒIt is hard not to be fascinated by these landscapes shaped by the course of centuries,Ó afÞrms J r me Billod-Morel, a chef passionate for the gastronomic arts and for locally grown products. ÒWhatÕs more, you have the impression that men are fashioned out of the same stone as all of these historical monuments, like the 11th century castle perched high above the village where I live.
The chef of gourmet restaurant Ç Le Jardin aux Sources È in Brissac found paradise between Montpellier and Lod ve in the heart of a natural world carved out by history.
All around Brissac, nature and history are omnipresent. There is the Roman church of St. Nazaire, the Roman chapel of St. Stephen of Issansac, near the bridge that bears the same name, with its three arches crossing the H rault River. Not to mention Notre-Dame du Sac, a chapel famous with pilgrims who ravelled to Santiago-de-Compostela. The path that leads to the Virgin is always an
exceptional promenade, as it winds through the Mediterranean slopes of the C vennes, half way between Aigoual and the beaches of Languedoc. From the valley of the H rault river to the Valley of the Bu ges, nature herself resembles a gigantic work of art, where men have sprinkled farmhouses and cottages between fresh water springs. As the path curves, sometimes one Þnds surprises like prehistoric remains in a natural setting carved out in chasms, crags and swallow holes. In the footsteps of pilgrims of the Middle Ages, between Montpellier and Lod ve, the Abbey of St. Guilhem-le-D sert concentrates all of the architectural beauty and mystical power of this land. It is my favourite site because it reminds us that like all wanderers, we are also just travellers here, and that we must respect this magniÞcent nature all around us.Ó
15
ZONE 2
E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
Roads of cha REMARKABLE SITES The Gallo-Roman Villa at Loupian On the banks of the pond in Thau, along the Via Domitia, rich with more than 2,000 years of history, this site will allow you to discover the very beautiful mosaics on the premises. The Section of the Via Domitia in Pinet Two sections allow visitors to discover several layers of the construction techniques used on the Roman Road. The archaeological museum and the site of the Lattara in Lattes A former port in ancient days, Lattes reveals the remnants of its past as one visits the archaeological site and its mu- Montpellier seum, situated in the former St. Sauveur Historical crossroads, this city is linked to N mes, B ziers and Narbonne by the Via farmhouse. Domitia. It is also crossed by one of the The Ephebe Museum in Agde routes to Santiago-de-Compostela. Not Exceptional exhibition of archaeological to be missed: the History Museum, with marine remains, with one of the worldÕs its collection focused on the subterrarichest collection of antique bronze dis- nean remains of the Notre-Dame des Tacovered in the area. bles and St. Roch churches. The site and the Archaeological Museum of Castellas in Murviel-les-Montpellier The rich remains of the ancient GalloRoman settlement are evidence of the importance of this city in antiquity. Its Archaeological Museum lets visitors imagine living conditions of those times.
The former Cathedral of St. Fulcran in Lod ve, City of Art and History Typical of southern Gothic style, this caThe Abbey of Valmagne in Villeveyrac This magniÞcent location, situated thedral was one of the pilgrimÕs stops en near the Via Domitia, is one of the best route to Compostela. conserved examples of Cistercian art. It was also a stop on the pilgrimÕs route to Former Cathedral of St. Pierre de Maguelone Historical cradle of Montpellier and hiCompostela. ghlight of Roman architecture in the Midi region of France, it is situated in a landsThe Abbey of St. Guilhem-le-D sert Jewel of Roman art en route to Santiago- cape of vineyards and pine trees. de-Compostela, the Abbey was also one of the most important spiritual and cultural centres in Languedoc.
The Round Lock in Agde Demonstrating genuine technical and architectural prowess and made of volcanic rock, this is the only round lock on the Midi Canal. It has three exits and three The Lapidary Museum of different water levels. St. Guilhem-le-D sert S te A former monkÕs refectory, the museum The city where Georges Brassens was born is houses several unique pieces gathered also one of the entryways to the Midi Canal. together in the crypt or in the cloister, Facing the sea, the sailorÕs graveyard houses thereby saved from pillage. the tombs of Paul Val ry and Jean Vilar. The DevilÕs Bridge The bridge is one of the major symbolic markers of the routes taken by pilgrims in the Middle Ages. 16
The Priory of St. Michel-de-Grandmont in Soumont In the heart of the countryside around Lod ve, this architectural location from the Middle Ages will fascinate visitors with its sober atmosphere and the serenity of the grounds.
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Rm and WondeR HIGHLIGHTED EVENTS Roman Festival in the Gallo-Roman Villa of Loupian Located on the Via Domitia, this historic site is ideal for family outings, and it features a Roman camp and Roman meals, experimental archaeology, educational workshops and activities. St. RochÕs Festival in Montpellier Parades, exhibitions of relics, tours of the old town and fanfare liven up the city on August 16th to honour St. Roch, the patron saint of Montpellier. Total Festum in Montpellier On the second Saturday in June, the Languedoc-Roussillon region invites you to meet Catalan and Occitan culture. Featured are concerts, Òbal tis,Ó the Þres of St. John, arts in the streets, and banquets placed under the signs of Óconviv nciaÓ and local festival. Summer Concert Series in Villeveyrac, at the Abbey of Valmagne From mid-July to mid-August, the cloister of the Abbey vibrates to the rhythm of a classical music festival. Exhibitions are also arranged all summer long.
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THE CAMIN ROMIEU IN MONTPELLIER: THEMED VISIT Learn through legends, stories and traditions about the pilgrimage and the route to Santiago (known in Occitan as Camin Romieu) in the old town of Montpellier. THE ABBEY AND THE OLD TIMES VILLAGE MUSEUM OF ST. GUILHEM-LE-D SERT Indulge yourself in a guided visit of this medieval village that lies along the route to Santiago-de-Compostela. LEARN WHILE HAVING FUN AT THE EPHEBE MUSEUM IN AGDE Guided tours, scheduled lectures and educational workshops are arranged all year long in this museum dedicated to marine archaeology. TASTING TOUR: LA VIA DOMITIA IN PINET Guided tour blending the history of the Via Domitia, the discovery of Mediterranean ßora and local products of the ÒPicpoul of Pinet.Ó Wine tasting at the conclusion of the tour. ÒLEARN THE STORIES OF LODéVE,Ó AND ÒLEARN THE STORIES OF P ZENAS COUNTRYÓ General and themed discovery tours and events for young people arranged by these Cities of Art and History.
Musical Gatherings in St. Guilhem-le-D sert End of summer Musical Gatherings feature classical music concerts in the magniÞcent PenitentsÕ Chapel. Mediterranean Voices in Lod ve More than 80 poets from countries around the Mediterranean Þll the streets, squares, courtyards and caf s of the city over nine days at the end of July.
DID YOU KNOW ? > Marine Archaeology Amphora, anchors, vases, dolia and other historic remains have been discovered along the coast of Languedoc, including the famous bronze of Alexander the Great, known as the Ephebe of Agde. > Mosaics of Loupian The Gallo-Roman villa of Loupian houses thirteen recently renovated polychromatic mosaics that offer exceptional character, with a mixture of inßuences. 17
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E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
HInTs of Mende
Al s
N mes
Montpellier
B ziers B
Narbonne Narbo Carcassonne La Cit
Perpignan P i
From atop the Cathedral of St. Nazaire, B ziers seems like a fortress, proudly dominating the banks of the Orb, the 12th century Old Bridge, and the Midi Canal with its ÒNine Locks.Ó The hometown of Pierre-Paul Riquet has seen more than 2,000 years of history. Visitors sense this vast span merely by wandering through the townÕs medieval passages, pausing before its amphitheatre, where in the beginning of the Christian era, gladiator combat took place, to discover the Gothic architecture of the Church of the Penitents, or better still one of the most beautiful examples of the second Mediterranean Roman art in St. JamesÕ church. . 3 Parc Naturel R gional du Haut-Languedoc Nissan lez Ens rune
Olargues
Oppidum d'Ens rune Tunnel du Malpas
Ecluses de Fonseranes Pont-canal
Cazedarnes Abbaye de Fontcaude
Minerve
B ziers
Capestang Poilh s
Portiragnes
Sall les d'Aude Amphoralis
Colombiers Villeneuve l s B ziers
Narbonne Via Domitia - Mus e arch ologique Abbaye de Fontfroide
Mus e lapidaire - Horreum Cath drale & Palais des Archev ques
Carcassonne Parc Naturel R gional de la Narbonnaise
Gruissan
Remarkable Sites Port with marina services Hiking
Sigean Pech Maho& Mus e
Cycling
Port la Nouvelle
Most beautiful villages of France Cities and Lands of Art and History The Roads to Santiago
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ZONE 3
The ETeRnal By following Paul Riquet Lane, the principal artery of the city, one discovers the atmosphere that prevailed in the former Roman forum, site today of the City Hall. One can imagine the effervescence around the 6th century ramparts, some of which support the Roman church of St. Madeleine. As you leave the city, you are following in the footsteps of the Romans, heading toward Narbonne, via Ens rune, one of the most prestigious Oppida in Languedoc, whose dwellings date from the 6th century B.C. The Roman Empire is still very present when one arrives in Narbonne. Numerous ancient monuments, like Romans frescos, the cobblestones of the Via Domitia and milestone markers are evidence. Lose yourself on the roads travelled by the pilgrims up to the Abbey of Lagrasse or the Abbey of Fontfroide. Tucked into a crevice in the valley of Corbi res, this Abbey houses a church from the 12th century and one of the most beautiful Gothic cloisters in the Midi. A beautiful rose garden endowed with 3,000 rose bushes in eleven different colours further beautifies the experience.
I N T E R V I E W
Caroline de Beaulieu, on the road in Languedoc ÒThe former towpaths stretching along the Midi Canal have retained this charm from the past, this country sweetness that the riverway has been able to transform and strengthen,Ó explains Caroline de Beaulieu, a specialist of wines and wineries. ÒIn the calm of these waters, cradled by the passing barges, you can hear the echo of the sweet centuries-old plane-trees that protect the banks from summerÕs heat and winterÕs cold.
Înologist Caroline de Beaulieu learned to love these lands around Minerve where she has lived for 26 years. Her passion for horses regularly leads her along the Midi Canal or along the trails of the Via Domitia.
The locks, the people out for a stroll and the cyclists one meets give a particular kind of life to this beautiful promenade. It feels like paradise, like someplace outside the rhythm of time, where I love to lose myself riding my horse. On an outing one day, without even knowing it, I went as far as the grounds of Canet Castle. I immediately fell in love with these lands infused with history, just like the region that surrounds them. The ruins of a Roman Villa from the 1st century
B.C. were discovered when they were planting grape vines on this property built in the 19th century. Pottery fragments, amphoras, glass and metal are evidence of the habitation of these places up until the 5th century. Then, the lands took on a new life in the 12th century when Bernard de Canet, a Lord from those days, had his castle built there. Today, the grape vines give a new colour to these hills, producing full-bodied wines, including Syrah blends that are spiced and fruity, blackberry ßavoured Grenache or Chardonnay with hints of white ßowers. These days, Canet castle welcomes visitors from the entire world to its guest homes. Nearby, the Via Domitia is also a real joy for people on a stroll. Sometimes, I go there on horseback and I imagine the chariots whose wooden wheels have forever marked the stones. The Romans knew how to place them there so that they would last for more than 2,000 years of history!
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E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
HInTs of SITES REMARQUABLES The Restored Via Domitia in Narbonne A stoned portion of the Via Domitia was discovered in 1997 on the MayorÕs Square in Narbonne, the Þrst Roman colony in Gaul. The Horreum in Narbonne This is the only example in France of a Gallo-Roman subterranean goods storage facility, conserved in practically its original state. The Archaeological Museum in Narbonne The museum presents a rare collection of remains from antiquity and painted murals of the archaeological site of Clos de la Lombarde, as well as the oldest milestone The Museum of Corbi res in Sigean The collection includes the archaeologimarker of the Via Domitia. cal Þnds of the Oppidum of Pech Maho, a protohistoric site crossed over by the The Lapidary Museum of Narbonne A signiÞcant collection of 1300 Gallo- former paths of the Via Domitia. Roman lapidary elements collected from The Oppidum of Ens rune old Roman monuments in the city. This magniÞcent archaeological site, The St. Just and St. Pasteur Cathedral in along with the museum, bring the Oppida civilisation to light. From above the Narbonne One can see the monumental stature of hillside, there is a splendid view of the the Cathedral of Narbonne from far off. Languedoc plain and the dry pond of While it is unÞnished, it possesses the hi- Montady. ghest Gothic choir in southern France, with The Site of Malpas its vaulted ceiling rising to 40 metres in Nissan-lez-Ens rune The Malpas or Òpoor passageÓ is a tunnel The Abbey of Fontfroide Cistercian Abbey built along the Via Do- dug by Pierre-Paul Riquet through a hillmitia, this monastic compound with its side to allow for the continuation of the beautiful rose garden, is still a stop en Midi Canal. route to Santiago-de-Compostela. The nine locks of Fons ranes in B ziers This major construction of the Midi Canal Amphoralis at Sall les dÕAude The museum is actually a bridge built over is also the most astonishing. Eight pools the digs, allowing visitors to discover the and nine gates allow for crossing a level change of 21.5 metres! art of Gallo-Roman potters.
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The Canal-Bridge in B ziers It was built to ease the difÞcult crossing of the Orb, a small river with an irregular water ßow. Since 1858, this ÒboatÕs bridgeÓ also allows for passage above the river. The Abbey of Fontcaude in Casedarnes A Roman-style Abbey of the Pr montr Order situated near a sacred spring, a stop en route to Santiago
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The ETeRnal HIGHLIGHTED EVENTS DocksÕ Festival The city of B ziers pays a festive homage every June to the structures of the Midi Canal, organised around the site of the Locks of Fons rannes, the Quay of Pont Neuf and the Bosquet. The Abbey of Fontfroide: Music and History Festival A summer spectacle founded by Jordi Savall, it is a musical journey through time and through Europe.
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IN NARBONNE, TAKE A HERITAGE HOLIDAY Activities for all ages (themed visits, workshops, scavenger hunts, etc.) to discover in a unique way this city of art and history. MONUMENT AND MUSEUM PASS IN NARBONNE A single ticket to visit the following museums: the Archaeological Museum, the Horreum, the Museum of Art and History, the Lapidary Museum and the Gilles Aycelin Keep and the Treasure of the Cathedral. ÒLEARN THE STORIES OF NARBONNEÓ General and themed discovery tours and childrenÕs events organized by the City of Art and History.
The Festa dÕOc Festival in B ziers One of the summer highlights in Occitan France. There are concerts by fresh talent and well-known Occitan artists in the St. Nazaire cloister and on Paul Riquet Lane. The ÒDomitian HeritageÓ Festival This festival blends heritage and culture in locations rich with history and emotion, scheduled between the end of summer and the European Heritage Days. The theme is historical byways, and on the programme are tastings, strolls, lectures, concerts, theatre or guided tours.
DID YOU KNOW ? > Pierre-Paul Riquet B ziers is the hometown of Pierre-Paul Riquet, born in 1609. He died in 1680 and his two sons had to Þnish the Midi Canal, inaugurated one year later. > Oppidum An Oppidum is an elevated location, generally perched on a hill or plateau whose natural defences were reinforced by their inhabitants back in the days of the Celts. > Amphora Amphoras allowed for the transport of oil and wine products by the large rural farms of the Roman province around the city of Narbonne. > Cistercian Monasteries Cistercian monasteries are characterized by the simplicity and austerity of the architecture and decoration, meant to avoid any distraction to the spirit.
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E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
In The HeaRT of
LauRa
Mende
Al s
N mes
Montpellier
B ziers
Narbonne Carcassonne La Cit
Perpignan P i
The threshold of Naurouze is the Òkey to the vaultÓ of the Midi Canal. This is the divide where waters flow either to the Atlantic or to the Mediterranean from an octagonal decantation pool, evidence of the genius of Pierre-Paul Riquet. All around are the shadows of Aleppo pines, hackberries, Atlas cedars and bicentenary plane-trees offering shade to visitors. Following the traditions of boaters, one can float along in barges until the locks of St. Roch in Castelnaudary, where the Isle of Cybele was assembled as a sort of windcheater to protect from the strong gusts that once were responsible for the drowning of so many tow horses.
4 Parc Naturel R gional du Haut-Languedoc
Saint-F rr ol Mus e du Canal du Midi
Montferrand Abbaye
St Papoul Abbaye
Castelnaudary
Bram
Monast re de Prouille
Le Somail
Saint-Martin de Viel Abbaye de Villelongue
Le grand bassin Ecluses Saint-Roch
Fanjeaux
Argens Minervois
Caunes Minervois
Le seuil de Naurouze
Tr bes
Homps
Narbonne
Carcassonne La Cit
La Redorte
Lagrasse
Saint-Hilaire
Abbaye
Abbaye
Remarkable Sites Port with marina services Hiking Listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO The Roads to Santiago ' ('
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Via Domitia The Midi Canals
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VoIs GaIs and MIneR Then, a bit removed from the Canal, there is the city of Fanjeaux, hanging onto a rocky peak, seemingly rising out of a dream. Built upon an Oppidum, it is one of the most important sites of the history of the Cathars in Languedoc. Here one can get a view of six of the regionÕs departments. It is also a superb stopping place en route to Santiago-de-Compostela, linking the routes from Arles and the Piedmont-Pyrenees. Just like Carcassonne, it is the only city to have earned two listings on the UNESCO World Heritage Site registry, for two separate monuments. One is the medieval city, which seems frozen in time for a thousand years and the Midi Canal, which flows softly through the vineyards of the Minervois plains up until Somail. Here one reaches one of the most beautiful stops along the Midi Canal. There is a tiny, donkey-back bridge, dominated by a chapel, its icehouse, and its inn so cherished by boaters.
I N T E R V I E W
Jean-Claude Carri re ÒI am this landÓ ÒAmidst a life of incessant wandering to the four corners of the world, I am lucky to be able to come back regularly to Colombi res-surOrb, in this part of Upper Languedoc which is also the only spot on earth where I feel like I am at home, where my family has lived for centuries.Ó Writer and screenplay creator Jean-Claude Carri reÕs attachment links the very roots of the territory where he grew up.
Jean-Claude Carri re travels the world to practice his profession, writing and creating screenplays. But it is only in Languedoc that the author of ÒDrunken wineÓ feels at home, as he is attached to the lands of his ancestors and to the past of this region.
ÒWe all have an indeÞnable and somewhat strange rapport with the land where we were born. Here, when I take a handful of earth in my hand, I have the impression that itÕs me, that this earth is a reßection, and in a certain way, this earth is me.
which wind around the mountain, and which were the Herculean work of our ancestors.Ó Beyond the hills of Colombi res-sur-Orb, Jean-Claude Carri re also rediscovers the traces of bygone eras, sometimes superimposed on the same site, like at the Abbey of Fanjeaux, a former Oppidum which became a medieval town, and a major location in the history of the Cathars, and a stopping place en route to Santiago-de-Compostela. ÒThese sites and monuments are witnesses to history, and they teach us lots of things about the people who live here, remind us that the present is linked to everything that happened since well before the Roman Conquest.Ó
And when I walk along the paths in this area, I am constantly brought back to this earth and to its origins, when I look with the very same admiration at these old walls of dried rocks
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E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
In The HeaRT of
LauRa
REMARKABLE SITES The Threshold of Naurouze in Montferrand This is the location that divides waters between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean and it is here that Pierre-Paul Riquet imagined and achieved the provision of water for the Midi Canal. The Great Pool in Castelnaudary The Great Pool is the Port of Castelnaudary, a water plan unique along the Midi Canal. Covering 7 hectares, it is as large as the old city of Carcassonne. The St. Roch Locks in Castelnaudary The four St. Roch locks permit one to cross through a 10 metre level change. Le Somail Along the Midi Canal, in a tiny corner of paradise, the lovely hamlet of Somail, a rest stop laid out by Riquet, presents a superb architectural ensemble created to meet the needs of the canal. The Port of Homps This former commercial port was one of the most important along the Midi Canal. It was in former times a real revolving door for boats and the transport of wine. Carcassonne It is the only city with two monuments listed as World Heritage Sites, the Midi Canal, which crosses through the lower city, and the Old City. Also note the St. Nazaire Cathedral. The City of Fanjeaux The City of Fanjeaux is a former Oppidum that became a medieval city. This important landmark in the history of the Cathars is a stop en route to Santiago, and it offers a panoramic view of six of the regionÕs departments.
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The Abbey of Lagrasse This Abbey is located in the heart of Cathar Country, in one of the most beautiful villages in France. A very powerful abbey, its inßuence radiated throughout the South of France and into Catalonia. St. Hilaire Abbey This former fortiÞed Abbey is renowned for its Roman Abbey Church that opens out onto a cloister. It is also considered the birthplace of the Blanquette de Limoux sparkling wine. St. Papoul Abbey This Abbey, remarkable for its cloister, houses in one place the largest number of Roman sculptures of the Cabestany Master in Aude.
Villelongue Abbey Villelongue is a former Cistercian Abbey, remarkable for its abounding sculpted decor representing allegorical Þgures. The Abbey of Caunes-Minervois This is the only Abbey in Cathar country to posses a crypt open to the public and a two-level cloister. It is also famous for the quality of its marble which embellishes in particular the Trianon of Versailles and the Paris Opera House.
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VoIs GaIs and MIneR HIGHLIGHTED EVENTS Travelling festival ÒThe Troubadours sing the Roman artsÓ From spring to fall, ÒThe Troubadours sing the Roman artsÓ festival, arranged by the Region of Languedoc-Roussillon,proposes a musical journey through the Þnials of Roman heritage, in the travelling spirit of these Occitan jugglers of lyric and rhyme. Fugue in Roman Aude Two weeks of classical music concerts in summer held in various Roman Abbeys throughout the department.
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INTERPRETED CIRCUIT: THE LOCKS OF ST. ROCH TO THE OLD BRIDGE AT CASTELNAUDARY Guided visit of the construction of the Midi Canal, accelerated navigation, life around the port in the 18th century, etc. PASSPORT TO THE SITES OF CATHAR COUNTRY This pass entitles visitors to reduced-priced entry to the sites of Cathar Country. MIDI CANAL DISCOVERY BY BICYCLE FROM CARCASSONNE TO TRéBES Along 14 km, the banks of the canal have been turned into Greenway bicycle lanes, making for an enjoyable and safe cycling tour.
NAVA theatre festival in the cloister of the St. Hilaire Abbey An annual event, at the end of the month of July, the AbbeyÕs cloister transforms into an open air theatre where important actors come to take the stage. The Cassoulet Festival in Castelnaudary Concerts, street fairs, gourmet markets, nautical events on the Midi Canal and Cassoulet tasting.
DID YOU KNOW ? > Castelnaudary and Carcassonne, the Midi Canal at any price To convince Pierre-Paul Riquet to plot the course of the canal through Castelnaudary, the city asked for the support of the bishop of St. Papoul and contributed 30,000 pounds. > Postal boats along the Canal In the 18th century, postal boats travelled regularly along the Midi Canal, taking four days to make the run from Agde to Toulouse. > The Master of Cabestany This Anonymous Master Sculptor from the second half of the 12th century is famous for his astonishing sculptures discovered in Cabestany and in 121 sites around the Pyr n es-Orientales region.
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E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
fRom The Sea Mende
Al s
N mes
Montpellier
B ziers
Narbonne Carcassonne La Cit
Perpignan
By following their route toward Southwest Languedoc-Roussillon, the Romans and later the pilgrims found themselves in sumptuous countryside, between the sea and the mountains. The foothills of the Pyrenees descend to within miles of the Mediterranean. From above its 2,784 metres, the Canigou dominates this region for which it has in fact become one of its symbols. Majestic, it announces winterÕs arrival as it is draped in snowy white. It is wonderful to follow these routes and pathways where mankind has been travelling for centuries.
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Perpignan Cath drale
Arboussols Prieur de Marcevol
Mosset
Eus
Villefranche de Conflent
Hospice
Casteil
Evol Font Romeu Ermitage
Elne
Castelnou Boule d'Amont Prieur de Serrabonne
Fortification de Vauban
Abbaye de Saint-Martin du Canigou
Les Cluses
Mont Louis Fortification de Vauban
Parc Naturel R gional des Pyr n es Catalanes
Centre de sculpture romane
Ille sur T t
Codalet Abbaye de Saint-Michel de Cuxa
Cabestany
Arles sur Tech Eglise & clo tre
Vestiges forts romains
Cath drale & clo tre
St G nis des Fontaines Eglise
Le Perthus Panissars
Remarkable Sites Port with marina services Hiking Cycling Most beautiful villages of France
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Cities and Lands of Art and History Listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO The Roads to Santiago Via Domitia
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MounTaIns
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To The
Some prefer to follow the sea to reach the Spanish border along beautiful sand beaches which have made this coastal region famous. After Collioure, Port-Vendres and Banyuls-sur-Mer, Cerb re is the last community along the Vermilion Coast before Port-Bou and the Franco-Spanish border. Others take the mountain route for its rugged and savage beauty. Along the way, one comes across Abbeys and Priories that mark the road to Compostela, from Perpignan to Elne, or Roman fortifications that overhang the Via Domitia along the Panissars Pass. Between the Pyrenees, Corbi res and the Mediterranean, lies Perpignan, the former continental capital of the Kingdom of Mallorca. The city is well worth a stop. For more than 2,000 years, travellers have passed by here. As a result, it is a unique place, with a mixture of French, Spanish and Catalan architectures, famous for its Palace of the Kings of Mallorca dating from the 13th century and for the Castillet, once a gate to the city, and then a prison. Now it houses the Catalan museum of Art and Local Traditions.
I N T E R V I E W
Patrick Chappert-Gaujal : ÒA land of inspirationÓ Painter Patrick Chappert-Gaujal gets taken away by his memories when he brings up the Pyr n es-Orientales and the villages where he lived in his youth, like Le Barcar s, St. Laurentde-la-Salanque, and Latour Bas Elne ÒThis is where I let myself get taken away, like other famous artists before me, by these lands of the Pyr n es-Orientales, by this light, by these strident colours, by this incredible blue from the sky, particularly between Perpignan and Port Bou. Being keen on history, I also explored through my art the roads of the Via Domitia whose traces are still visible in the region and which brought me to wonder about these wheels that dug the furrows of the Þrst routes, crossing the Pyrenees via the passes of Perthus and Panissars. At the age of 16, Patrick Chappert-Gaujal entered the School of Fine Arts in Perpignan. Today, this accomplished and well-known artist admits to being inßuenced in his art by the landscapes and history of the PyreneesOrientales.
I perceive a particular force near these monuments, like the Priory of Serrabonne, which marks the route on the way to Santiago-deCompostela. The Roman Priory of Marcevol is one of the most beautiful examples, with its sober lines of pink marble facing the Canigou, a sacred mountain to the Catalonians. The place gives off this energy which people often speak of when describing my artwork. There is a somewhat mysterious alchemy that provokes a reaction and an exchange which leaves no one indifferent.Ó
When you cross through this territory, you simply have to be captivated by the beauty of the chapels and the Roman ruins, the Baroque altars, which undoubtedly left their mark on my work, not so much for their religious dimension, but for the power that they emit. 27
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E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
fRom The Sea REMARKABLE SITES The Roman Forts of Les Cluses On the foothills of the Pyrenees, these magniÞcent Roman fortiÞcations dominate the Via Domitia, just above the village of Les Cluses. The Panissars of Perthus site The Via Domitia crossed the Pyrenees at the Panissars pass, where it is still visible with its ruts dug into the rock. You will discover trophies erected by Pompey there in the Þrst century B.C. The St. Jean-Baptiste Cathedrale in Perpignan Of southern Gothic style, this superb cathedral was one of the stops en route to The Abbey church and the cloister in Santiago-de-Compostela. Arles-sur-Tech The city has been built up around its AbThe St. Eulalie Abbey in Elne bey, one of the stops along the road to Built upon a Roman Oppidum near the Via Santiago, with its church and its cloister. Domitia and on the road to Santiago, this cloister of blue-veined white marble is The Serrabonne Priory in Boule-dÕAmont particularly well preserved. Located in the Boul Valley, in the heart of
The St. Michel-de-Cuxa Abbey in Codalet Dominated by the Canigou peak, the Abbey is a seminal monument in Catalan history.
The St. Martin-du-Canigou Abbey in Casteil With magniÞcent mountain scenery all green oak forests, the Priory, a pilgrimÕs around, it is without doubt one of the Centre for Roman Sculpture in Cabestany stopover, is a masterpiece of Roman ar- most difÞcult sites to access along the Discover the mysterious world of a tra- chitecture and sculpture. route to Santiago. velling, anonymous sculptor in a voyage of initiation through sight and touch into The Marcevol Priory in Arboussols The Notre-Dame Hermitage of the heart of Roman Art. Along the road to Santiago, this historic Font Romeu site, surrounded by splendid landscapes, The Hospice of Ille-sur-T t dominates the Valley of the T t. In southern France, this hospice is one of the rare hospitality establishments to have been preserved. It contains mural paintings from the Chapel of Casenozes as well as Roman and Baroque works of art. The St. Michel church and the St. Genisdes-Fontaines cloister A stop on the road to Santiago, this Benedictine Abbey includes the St. Michel church, housing the oldest Roman sculpture in France, and the St. Genis cloister, with its white, pink and black marble.
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With its statue of the Virgin Mary, discovered alongside a spring, Fount-Romeu, known as the ÒPilgrimÕs FountainÓ in Catalan, is one of the most famous pilgrimage sites in the Pyrenees.
MounTaIns
HIGHLIGHTED EVENTS Music Festival in the Palace of Perpignan Lyric and symphonic concerts in the Palace of the Kings of Mallorca. Sacred Music Festival in Perpignan This event constitutes one of the Spring Highlights of Perpignan. It is an opportunity to discover the sacred heritage of the city. Chimes Festival of Perpignan In the summer season, concerts are given by French and European bell ringers. Serrabone Sundays In summer, free classical music concerts are offered on Sunday evenings in the Serrabone Priory, with its splendid 12th century marble grandstand. Pablo Casals Festival in Prades This festival offers a journey through the original chamber music repertory, in honour of Pablo Casals, famous cellist, orchestra director and Catalonian composer.
A C T I V I T E S
E T
ZONE 5
To The
P R O D U I T S
ÒLEARN THE STORIES OF PERPIGNANÓ General and themed discovery visits and events for young people arranged by the city of Art and History. PERPIGNAN RALLIES Three rallies are offered to help discover the Heritage of Perpignan: Lora (for children aged 4 to 8), Arthur (for children aged 8 to 12) and Archibald (children aged 12 to 16). THE INTER-SITES PASS OF THE CULTURAL NETWORK OF CATALAN COUNTRY The pass allows visitors to take advantage of preferential rates starting with a visit to a second site on the network. THE INTERACTIVE TRAVELERÕS CARD FOR YOUNG PEOPLE ON THE CULTURAL NETWORK OF CATALAN COUNTRY For a fun-Þlled family discovery trip, the story of ÒThe Grand Voyage of PatoufffetÓ in Catalan Country brings you on a discovery of the departmentÕs monuments. FUN-FILLED AND EDUCATIONAL FORMS FROM THE CULTURAL NETWORK OF CATALAN COUNTRY Fill them out as you visit the networkÕs sites to learn while having fun. GUIDE TO THE ITINERARIES OF THE CULTURAL NETWORK OF CATALAN COUNTRY Seven themed itineraries are offered, including prehistory, medieval churches, baroque churches, castles and fortiÞcations. NARRATED VISITS OF THE CULTURAL NETWORK OF CATALAN COUNTRY From June to September, this original concept allows everyone in the family to visit a site as part of a storytelling, following in the footsteps Soldier Sweet Heart, the Mutineer Angel or the Mule-driver. ÒLEARN THE STORIES OF THE TæT VALLEYÓ General and themed discovery visits and events for young people arranged by the region of Art and History.
DID YOU KNOW ? > The Mystery of the Sarcophagus of Arles-sur-Tech A ÒmiraculousÓ phenomenon occurs each day in this former sarcophagus made of marble and placed in a little court of the Abbey of Arles sur Tech. It is the appearance of practically ÒpureÓ > Joseph Puig Museum in Perpignan This museum of money and medals houses a rare coin, struck with the likeness of Domitius. > The Border Crossing by Via Domitia South of Perpignan, there is a fork in the Via Domitia. One itinerary takes visitors along the coast, and the other travels through the interior countryside, by the Perthus and Panissars passes. 29
ZONE 6
E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
PaThs of HI Mende
Al s
N mes
Montpellier
B ziers
Narbonne Carcassonne La Cit
Perpignan
History has left an imprint all over Loz re, from Aubrac, with its rolling pastures and lakes to the plateaus of the Causses, dug with swallow holes and cut with gorges, passing by granite landscapes, green prairies, trout streams and the forests of the Margeride. History walks the paths that cross Aumont-Aubrac, a genuine crossroads of ancestral byways, like the Via Agrippa that linked Lyons with Toulouse in the Gallo-Roman period, or the Via Podiensis which served as a highway for pilgrims starting in the Middle Ages. Currently the Way of Le Puy in Velay, it leads to Santiago-de-Compostela. The Cross of lÕOustalet in the St. Etienne Church of Aumont-Aubruc is evidence of this history. The coat bears the trappings of the pilgrim, including the cup, satin stitch and pouch. 6
Aumont Aubrac Saint-Alban sur Limagnole
Javols
Nasbinals
Site arch ologique et salle d'exposition
Mende Cath drale
Lanu jols
Banassac Salle d'exposition
Mausol e romain
La Garde Gu rin
Sainte-Enimie Florac
Parc National des C vennes Remarkable Sites Hiking
' ('
N
,' bd
Al s
Most beautiful villages of France Cities and Lands of Art and History The Roads to Santiago
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ZONE 6
sToIRY in LOzeRE En route to Santiago-de-Compostela, the Way of Le Puy leads to Nasbinals, a typical Aubrac village centred around its beautiful Roman church and surrounded by several signposted paths. Further south, the journey follows along through narrow lanes of the medieval city of Mende, between its half-timbered houses. The old town is dominated by its gothic cathedral, built according to the specifications of the Avignon Pope Urban the 5th who was a native of G vaudan. But the paths of history trace well beyond the Middle Ages in Loz re. The ways of life in antiquity emerge through objects on display in Javols, Lanu jols and Banassac, known as the Gallo-Roman triangle of Loz re.
I N T E R V I E W
G raldine Mallet, in the heart of the route to Santiago ÒAt the foot of the Aubrac pass in Loz re, Nasbinals is a particularly lovely stop on the road to Santiago-de-Compostela,Ó explains historian G raldine Mallet. ÒIt is discreet and austere in appearance, with a Roman church from the 11th-12th centuries, revealing lots of warmth and even colours to visitors who come to see it. The light plays with its shale roofs and walls, mixing ochre and black stones. Inside as well as outside a rich and generous decoration is hiding, with a multitude of details that one must take the time to observe.
Professor at Paul Val ry University in Montpellier, and a historian of the art of the Middle Ages, G raldine Mallet has studied the Road to Compostela in great detail.
Lovely sculptures and mouldings are to be discovered, like this Þgure pulling a bow and arrow, or these leaves shooting out toward heaven. Also not to be missed are the bedside and the porch with its magniÞcent Roman gate and its Þnely sculpted column heads. The road to Compostela must be discovered on foot.
It is an extraordinary voyage back in time, in the middle of landscapes that are very gently shaped over the course of the walk. They appear and then transform to reappear differently. You have to imagine these pilgrims all along this journey over several weeks, throughout Languedoc-Roussillon. For them, religious sites were precious stopovers, like Nasbinals, St. Guilhem-leD sert or, much less well-known to us these days, St. Gilles-du-Gard. The pilgrim went there to rest, to eat, to treat his injuries, and to recharge himself with Òspiritual energy.Ó Despite popular belief, this time period was brightly coloured, since churches and sculptures had vivid tones that have often faded or vanished with time.
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ZONE 6
E x p e r i e n c e t h e P a t h w ay s o f h i s t o r y
PaThs of HI
REMARKABLE SITES
The Gallo-Roman triangle of Loz re This ÒtriangleÓ is formed by Javols, Lanu jols and Banassac, sites that are rich Nasbinals An authentic mountain village in the heart in archaeological remains from the Galloof the Aubrac plateau, at the crossroads Roman period. of several marked trails, including the path to Compostela, known as the Way of The Archaeological site and the Exhibition Hall of Javols Le Puy. Javols is the former Gallo-Roman capital of G vaudan and one of the richest arSt. Alban-sur-Limagnole In the heart of the Margeride Mountains, chaeological sites in the south of France. St. Alban-sur-Limagnole was a Middle Ages stopover for pilgrims en route to Santiago-de-Compostela. Aumont-Aubrac Aumont-Aubrac is a crossroads where the hiking trails meet up with the Roman Via Agrippa and the Via Podensis on the road to Santiago-de-Compostela. The Notre-Dame-de-St-Privat Cathedral in Mende Built under the initiative of Pope Urban the 5th, a pope in Avignon whose hometown was G vaudan, one can see the ÒNon PareilleÓ door, a bell of exceptional diameter. 32
The Mausoleum of Lanu jols The Mausoleum of Lanu jols is one of the very rare examples of funeral architecture in Gaul. The Archaeological Museum of Banassac Banassac was an important centre for the manufacture of pottery in the Gallo-Roman period. Visitors can view examples in the village museum.
ZONE 6
sToIRY in LOzeRE HIGHLIGHTED EVENTS In Musica in Aubrac in Aumont-Aubrac and neighbouring communities Classical music and the arts in a combined festival. The Gabalades in Javols Over the course of an August weekend, Javols becomes once again the heart of the City of the Gabales. It comes to life with a Roman market, demonstrations, lectures, meetings with archaeologists and exhibits open to the public.
A C T I V I T I E S
A N D
P R O D U C T S
F O R
S A L E
DISCOVERY OF THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL DIGS IN THE EXHIBITION HALL OF JAVOLS A pedestrian circuit of 18 panels to discover archaeological remains at oneﾃ不 own pace. In the month of August, visit the dig site. THE ADVENTURE OF THE AOUMENET (LITTLE MAN)BRIEF GUIDE FOR CHILDREN IN MENDE The history of Mende, its mysteries and legends brought to life for small children, with workshops to discover the heritage of the city. LEARN THE STORIES OF MENDE: MENDE AND LOT IN GﾂシAUDAN, LAND OF ART AND HISTORY Themed discovery visits and events for young people arranged by the City of Art and History.
DID YOU KNOW ? > Aligot, dish of the pilgrims The dish originating from the Plateau of Aubrac was served by monks to pilgrims en route to Santiago-de-Compostela. > Aubrac, phenomenally stormy weather Of all the mountain ranges, the Aubrac was the most feared by pilgrims. It was more dreaded than even the Pyrenees because of the phenomenon of stormy climatic events, particular to Gﾂ思audan. > The Way of Le Puy, the most travelled in France The Way of Le Puy, or the Via Podensis, attracts the greatest number of pilgrims. There are more than 30,000 each year that tread these steep paths of great and savage beauty.
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contacts
Association de Coop ration Interr gionale Les Chemins de Compostelle 4, rue Cl mence Isaure 31000 Toulouse T l : 33 (0)5 62 27 00 05 www.chemins-compostelle.com Comit D partemental du Tourisme de lÕAude 11055 Carcassonne cedex 9 T l : 33 (0)4 68 11 66 00 www.audetourisme.com
Comit D partemental du Tourisme du Gard 3 rue de la Cit Foulc - BP 122 30010 N mes cedex 04 T l : 33 (0)4 66 36 96 30 www.tourismegard.com
Comit D partemental du Tourisme de lÕH rault Avenue des Moulins - BP 3067 34034 Montpellier cedex T l : 33(0)4 67 67 71 71 www.herault-tourisme.com
Comit D partemental du Tourisme de Loz re 14 Boulevard Henri Bourrillon - BP 4 48001 Mende cedex T l : 33 (0)4 66 65 60 00 www.lozere-tourisme.com
Comit D partemental du Tourisme des Pyr n es Orientales 16, avenue des Palmiers - BP 80540 66005 Perpignan cedex T l : 33 (0)4 68 51 52 53 www.pyreneesorientalestourisme.com
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l l l# h j c [ g V c X Z # X d b
Association Via Domitia c/o Comit R gional du Tourisme Languedoc-Roussillon 954 avenue Jean-Mermoz Ð CS 79507 34960 Montpellier cedex 2 T l : 33 (0)4 67 200 220 www.viadomitia.org Voies Navigables de France 2 Port Saint-Etienne BP 7204 31073 Toulouse cedex 7 T l : 33 (0)5 61 36 24 24 www.vnf.fr R seau Culturel Terre Catalane 10 rue du Th tre BP 60244 66002 Perpignan cedex T l : 33 (0)4 68 64 93 54 www.reseauculturel.fr Club des Sites Touristiques du Gard Chambre de Commerce et dÕIndustrie de N mes 12, rue de la R publique 30032 N mes Cedex 1 T l : 33 (0)4 66 879 879 www.sites-touristiques-gard.fr Association des Sites du Pays Cathare 14 rue du 4 septembre 11000 Carcassonne T l : 33 (0)4 68 11 37 97 www.payscathare.org Sites dÕexception en Languedoc Place des Etats du Languedoc Ð BP 10 34120 P zenas T l : 33 (0)4 67 98 69 46 / 04 67.98 36 40
Follow interpretive panels along the Pathways of History in Languedoc-Roussillon Accommodations, restaurants, wine tasting rooms, shopping locations for local products and, soon, tourism sites to welcome you with warmth and professionalism. These establishments are committed to rigorous procedures to improve their welcome of visitors.
Locate them at
www.sunfrance.com
Quality South of France has been recognized by the Plan for Quality Tourism
Follow interpretive panels along the Pathways of History in Languedoc-Roussillon The ComitÂ&#x17D; RÂ&#x17D;gional du Tourisme and the Region of Languedoc-Roussillon has put in place a programme to promote the Pathways of History at various heritage and tourism sites. Discover these locations along ancient paths of regional communication soon! Programme creation: 2009-2010
w w w. s u n f r a n c e . c o m Comité Régional du Tourisme Languedoc-Roussillon CS 79507 F - 34960 Montpellier Cedex 2 Tél : +33 (0)4 67 200 220