Magazine Sud de France - Summer 2014

TH E M AG AZIN E OF TOU RISM IN THE SOU TH OF F RA N CE L A N G U ED OC-ROU SSILL ON

SUD DE FRANCE LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Languedoc-Roussillon,

naturally South Collioure, pearl of Roussillon Narbonne, Roman memory Sète, the little Venice of Languedoc Mende, gateway to the Grands Causses

SUMMER 2014

Aigues-Mortes, fortress on the doorstep of the Camargue

Art of living A region of wines and good food

Moving around Fun activities that are 100% natural land and sea!

Short breaks: 5 ideas for turnkey circuits across the region MUST SEE: CARCASSONNE, PONT DU GARD, CANAL DU MIDI… ALL THE SITES LISTED AS UNESCO HERITAGE SITES

Direction de la communication de Sud de France Développement - 03/2014 - © Photos : P.Palau, B. Liegeois

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Le vrai luxe c’est d’être là !

Réservez vos prochaines vacances sur www.destinationsuddefrance.com

/tourisme.suddefrance

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EDITORIAL

Special edition published by the société du journal Midi Libre / Sud de France Développement.

Ltd with a capital of 6 356 302 € Principal Shareholders : GSO – SA – FCPE GMLA Head Office: rue du Mas de Grille 34430 Saint-Jean-de-Védas Postal address: 34438 Saint-Jean-de-Védas-Cedex Tél : 04 67 07 67 07 Publication director: Alain Plombat Design, coordination editorial: Didier Thomas-Radux - Mail : dtradux@midilibre.com Texts: Didier Thomas-Radux, Marie Vanhamme, Anne Schoendoerffer, Claire Mondrian.

Photo credits: Sud de France Développement (Paul Palau, Bernard Liégeois), Aurélio Rodriguez, Patrice Blot (P.4-5), Midi Libre (Pierre Saliba, Jean-Michel Mart, Alexis Béthune, Michael Anisset, David Pagès, Jean Bernard, David Crespin, William Truffy, Dominique Quet), Sensotek, Marc Dantan, Golf Mas de Huston, Didier Thomas-Radux, Régie Autonome des Sports et Loisirs Les Angles, Farshid MoussaviDominium, Sou Fujimoto, Norman Foster, BIM, Cabinet Médard-Ville de Lunel, Puilaurens-Jean Vidal, RNR Nyer, OT Vernet-les-Bains, Languedoc-Roussillon Cinéma, archives L’Indépendant.

Very best thanks to: Véronique et Julien Lucas (P.64) Cover photo: Sud de France Développement, Crédit Paul Palau.

Layout: Studio IDM, Saint-Jean-de-Védas.

IPrinted in Europe.

Legal deposit on publication: ISSN Number: 2112-7468 Joint Committee: 0413K 90782 Sud de France Développement/Midi Libre - may 2014 © Alcohol abuse damages your health.

Consume in moderation.

More information To round out your reading and your knowledge of Languedoc-Roussillon, “Sud de France Développement – Tourisme en Languedoc-Roussillon” offers several additional features: • A website: www.destinationsuddefrance.com • An iPhone app: Smartphone monSuddeFrance et Sud Prestige.

Finally, the small black square attached is a QR code and provides you with direct access to the sunfrance site, www.destinationsuddefrance.com.

Use your smartphone to scan the code and you will automatically be taken to the Sud de France homepage. Development – Tourism in Languedoc-Roussillon.

A

region of torment in the past due to its position on the borders of the Kingdom of France, LanguedocRoussillon has become a region of links, between North and South, between land and sea, between France and neighbouring countries, between heritage and modernity. Here in Languedoc-Roussillon, from PyrénéesOrientales to Lozère, from Hérault to Aude and Gard, the close links between landscape and architecture, villages and people, are obvious.

Nature, preserved and accessible to all, provides the bond between pleasure and relaxation.

The unique is everywhere at hand: with six sites (the Causses and the Cévennes, the fortified city of Carcassonne, the Canal du Midi, Pont du Gard, St James’ Ways to Santiago de Compostela and the Vauban fortresses), Languedoc-Roussillon is the best endowed region in France for monuments and Unesco World Heritage sites, and one of the least urbanized in France.

Languedoc-Roussillon is a vast land of contrasts, where, from the Mediterranean to the Pyrenees, from Margeride to Aspres, from Petite Camargue to Corbières, the wild beauty of its sites is only equalled by the soothing charm of the 220 kilometres of coastal beaches.

But the wealth of the region, with all its diversity, goes far beyond.

Between cities on the move and villages that have kept their soul, between starred chefs, fine ambassadors of regional gastronomy, and vineyards that promote wine tourism, it is a kaleidoscope of colours, scents and flavours. An ocean of sensations just waiting to be discovered.

Christian Bourquin President of the Languedoc-Roussillon Region Senator

www.destinationsuddefrance.com SUDDEFRANCE - 1 -

editorial

Now boarding

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CONTENTS SUD DE FRANCE

4-21

Key

MUST SEE

THE 6 PLACES IN LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON LISTED AS UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES: • CAUSSES AND CÉVENNES (6-8), NEARBY: ANDUZE, VÉZÉNOBRES, ALÈS, SAINT-HYPPOLYTE-DU-FORT, PORTES, FLORAC (9) • VAUBAN FORTRESSES (10), WAYS OF ST. JAMES TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA (11) • PONT DU GARD (12-14), NEARBY: VERS-PONT-DU-GARD, UZÈS, LUSSAN, SAINT-QUENTIN-LA-POTERIE (15) • FORTIFIED CITY OF CARCASSONNE (16-18), NEARBY: LASTOURS, CAUNES-MINERVOIS, LIMOUX, MONTOLIEU, CASTELNAUDARY (19) • CANAL DU MIDI (20-21)

Culture and Heritage City of Art Remnants of the Past

18-65 DESTINATION

Thermal Station

PORT-VENDRES AND PAULILLES (24), COLLIOURE (25), ARGELÈS-SUR-MER (26), AROUND CÔTE VERMEILLE : BANYULS, ELNE, ILLE-SUR-TÊT, THUIR, CÉRET (27) LA CLAPE (28), AGDE (29), BEACH RESTAURANTS, FROM CANET-EN-ROUSSILLON TO LA GRANDE-MOTTE (30-31), SÈTE (32), ETANG DE THAU (32), PALAVAS (33), VILLENEUVE-LÈS-MAGUELONE (33), LA GRANDE-MOTTE (34), LE GRAU-DU-ROI (34), AIGUES-MORTES (35), PERPIGNAN (38), CANET-EN-ROUSSILLON (39), NARBONNE (40), FONTFROIDE (40), MINERVE (41)

Waterways

summary

THE MEDITERRANEAN

Golf Animal Park

PORTFOLIO A REGION OF DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURAL AUDACITY (42-45) Aquarium

CITIES BÉZIERS (46), PÉZENAS (47), REGIONAL NATURAL PARK OF HAUT LANGUEDOC (47), MONTPELLIER (48), AROUND MONTPELLIER : LES MATELLES, VILLETELLE, PIC SAINT-LOUP, CLARET, PRADES (51) NÎMES (52), AROUND NÎMES : SOMMIÈRES, VERGÈZE, LE CAILAR, BAGNOLS, ST-PAULET-DE-CAISSON (55), MENDE (56), AROUND MENDE : GORGES DU TARN, CAUSSE MÉJEAN, VALLON DU VILLARET, LANGOGNE (57)

TERROIR LE CANIGOU (58), SALSES-LE-CHÂTEAU (59), LEUCATE (59), GRUISSAN (59), CHÂTEAUX CATHARES (60), MONT AIGOUAL (66), SAINT-GILLES (67), BEAUCAIRE (67)

CIRCUIT CIRCUIT CIRCUIT CIRCUIT CIRCUIT

GARD: THE PETITE CAMARGUE ALONG THE WATERWAYS (36-37) PYRÉNÉES-ORIENTALES: AT THE FOOT OF CANIGOU (62-63) AUDE: BETWEEN LAND AND SEA (64-65) HÉRAULT: OFF TO SALAGOU (68-69) LOZÈRE: IN STEVENSON’S FOOTSTEPS (70-71)

Company tour Eco-friendly Holiday Resort One of the most beautiful villages in France

84-95 MOVING AROUND NATURE

Unesco

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR! (84-85), GREEN ROADS, 100% NATURAL (84), RAFTING, CANYONING OR CANOEING (85), THE MOUNTAINS IN SUMMER (85), A SEA TO DISCOVER (86), GOLF COURSES FOR PROS AND AMATEURS (87)

The “Pavillon Bleu” (“Blue Flag”) - Environment Quality Label

AND MUSEUMS FAUVISM TO ART MODESTE

FESTIVALS

(88), EXHIBITIONS

NOT TO BE MISSED

(88)

AND TRADITIONS

The Way of Saint James

CULTURE, AND CULTURES (89), THE MAIN SUMMER FESTIVALS (89) LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON, A REAL MOVIE SET! (90) CRAFTS, GENIUS AT THE TIP OF THE FINGERS (92)

WELLNESS SPA

Airport

Regional Nature Park

THE BIGGEST VINEYARD AREA IN THE WORLD (74-75) THE BEATING HEART OF REGIONAL GASTRONOMY (76-77) EPICUREANS’ CORNER (78-79) LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON, LAND OF STARRED CHEFS (80-81)

FROM

River trips

Landscaped gardens

70-83 ART OF LIVING

ART

Marina

TGV Station

CIRCUITS • • • • •

Mountain Resort

AND MASSAGES FOR A RELAXING STAY

(93), BALNEOLOGY

IN THE PLURAL

(93)

Rivers and canals of the Midi

STAY ACCOMMODATION:

A STAY THAT’S MADE TO MEASURE

(94), GETTING

QUALITY SUD

DE

FRANCE,

A BRAND THAT’S HELD UP AS AN EXAMPLE

(96)

SUDDEFRANCE - 2 -

THERE

(95)

The Domitian Way

Causses et Cévennes Patrimoine de l’Unesco

SUDDEFRANCE - 3 -

AERIAL VIEW OF THE FORTIFIED CITY OF CARCASSONNE. SUDDEFRANCE - 4 -

6/9 CAUSSES AND CÉVENNES

10 VAUBAN FORTRESSES

11

CLASSICS

Languedoc-Roussillon glories in a unique heritage, forged by nature and history.

Few regions of France are as rich in diverse and internationally listed sites.

Six exceptional sites have been recognised as part of UNESCO’s World Heritage. Besides the Cité de Carcassonne, the Canal du Midi, and the Chemins de Saint-Jacques-deCompostelle, two of which pass through the region, the listing includes the Pont du Gard, the Vauban Fortifications along the Spanish border, and, since 2011, the landscapes of the Causses and Cévennes.

An impressive list, and one likely to be added to in future years, since a scientific panel is putting forward the case for recognising the Cathar cathedrals.

From ancient Rome to the Middle Ages, passing through the Crusades, the epic of the Cathars, the Fronde, and all the twists and turns of history, Languedoc and Roussillon have staunchly preserved the traces of a past that shaped the world.

THE WAYS OF ST. JAMES TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

12/15 PONT DU GARD

16/19 FORTIFIED CITY OF CARCASSONNE

20/21 CANAL DU MIDI

For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.destinationsuddefrance.com/incontournables

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CLASSICS CAUSSES AND CÉVENNES

The Causses and the Cévennes, an area of outstanding universal value

T

hese vast lands cover 3,000 km2, unfurling over four departments, three of which fall within the Languedoc-Roussillon region: Lozère, Hérault and Gard, proudly standing between the gateway cities of Alès, Ganges, Lodève and Mende. The diverse range of landscapes are each as stunning as the next. The valleys of the Cévennes are uniformly adorned with chestnut groves, vineyards and mulberry trees. Mounts Aigoual and Lozère stand tall with their spiked and jagged granite ridges and unbounded views over swathes of forestry and the migratory herds of the grasslands. The Causses are vast limestone plateaus, scattered with rocky outcrops, stretches of turf and tumultuous gorges, scarring the mountainside... An architectural covenant established between man and nature, the Causses and the Cévennes have succeeded in safeguarding this magnificent landscape for generations to come. The scenery is very much representative of the Mediterranean mountainous region, which is unfortunately in steady decline throughout Europe, along with the traditional agricultural-pastoral way of life – non-mechanical farming methods and cattle-breeding – that thrived upon it for so long. And it is precisely because this distinctive terrain was forged over generations of families, both past and present, developing systems of agriculture, forestry and grazing livestock, that in June, it was listed by Unesco as a world heritage site.

A total of 231 communities form part of this listing, of which 86 are in Gard, 82 in Lozère and 28 in Hérault. The highlands of the Causses and their wide-open expanses of dry

grasslands have, for so long, born the fruit of our ancestors’ labour and are still abundantly productive today, sheep breeding being the most advantageous sector. Despite the revolution in farming methods, with the decrease in the number of farmers (no more than 100 are presently active) and the increase in the size of holdings having meant that herding has seen a great many changes over the years, agro-pastoralism has remained close to its roots and continues to be practised in much the same way as it ever was.

A cultural, natural and environmental heritage Elsewhere, upon the high granite plains, cowherding/breeding is a prominent feature, whereas further down among the Cévennes shale-strewn valleys, goat rearing tends to be the more popular choice. The inherent value of these rich lands has resulted in the presence of a variety of farming organisations and methods dispersed throughout the Mediterranean region including agro-pastoralism, forestry, cattle herding and semi-migratory livestock breeding.

Among the areas recognised by UNESCO, lie the Cévennes National Park and the Regional Nature Park of the Grands Causses, as well as exceptional sites of profound beauty : the Tarn gorges, an intricate series of rocky crevasses, the Circus of Navacelles (photo), an enormous meander chiselled into the ground, a canyon left abandoned by the River Vis...

But this region of international repute also entices visitors into exploring other paths, the roads less travelled, where they are invited to unearth yet more of the treasures that this SUDDEFRANCE - 6 -

➥

CÉVENNES

TO DO LES BELVÉDÈRES DE BLANDAS The limestone plateaux of the Causse look out over the famous Vis Gorges.

Walk from Blandas to the panoramic viewpoint to discover the plateau of the Cirque de Navacelles.

Maison des belvédères, Blandas.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 99 51 60 36

TRUNK BEEHIVES The people of Cévennes used to cut hollow trees into sections that were colonised by bees. These beehive trunks were once very common. A beehive conservatory has been set up in Arrigas on a pastoral site by the river. Free access.

Etable du grand Champ, route de Peyraube, Arrigas.

SUDDEFRANCE - 7 -

í˘ą

GĂŠnolhac

ALĂˆS

Barjac Bessèges è ze

C

SaintAmbroix

NĂŽMES

P

í˘˛

La Grand-Combe

A TEMPLAR’S CROSS ON MONT LOZĂˆRE.

➼

In the heart of the CĂŠvennes National Park, the Chaos de NĂŽmes-le-Vieux is a strange cluster of limestone rocks that look like a ruined city. The landscape was carved out by the scalpel of erosion: the effect of water, frost, sun and wind, creating strange and fantastic shapes in the dolomitic limestone. The site is accessible via the Col du Perjuret. A nature trail crosses the Chaos between the hamlets of Hom and Gally, departing from Veygalier. www.cevennes-parcnational.fr

LE VIGAN

Sumène

A

í˘łí˘ą ě?ƒ í˘ł í˘˛ Anduze Ga rd

GARD VĂŠzĂŠnobres U

LĂŠdignan Saint-Hippolytedu-Fort

Saint-Chaptes Ga

â——

UNUSUAL/CHAOS DE NĂŽMES

í˘ą í˘˛Lasalle

rault

www.caussesetcevennes.com

Valleraugue

T

ALĂˆS

Saint-Jeandu-Gard

1565 m Mont Aigoual

HĂŠ

magnificent collision between nature and generations upon generations of man has to offer... Isolated farms, small hamlets, vaulted barns – used for keeping sheep, cellars, the flatlands – used by shepherds for herding in the summertime, sheep-trails, cattle tracks, natural oases used for watering livestock, bridges over the rivers and streams‌ So many features are revealed, all of them demonstrating proof of the ever-present agro-pastoral system. Along the CÊvennes valley slopes, the construction of stone-reinforced terraces divided up by dry-stone walling testifies to the necessity of expanding useable land for agricultural purposes.

On the Mont Lozère, granite blocks engraved with the Maltese cross serve as a strong visual reminder of the erstwhile occupancy of these lands by the “Hospitaliersâ€? (a military order) and the vast stretches of land they required for their animals. Causses ewes, Aubrac cows and Alpine goats can readily be seen strolling the lengths and breadths of the CĂŠvennes valleys, along the Causses plateaus or the Aigoual peaks, another feature that has been so very much a part of this landscape for over three millennia. â——

Lussan

Saint-AndrĂŠde-Valborgne

rd

Sauve Quissac

Saint-Mamertdu-Gard

N

S

DISCOVER

EATING OUT

Mine

A country restaurant in an old farmhouse with an authentic atmosphere. Farm produce and seasonal products.

MassĂŠjean 48220 Saint-Mauricede-Ventalon.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 45 81 51

ě?ƒ Alès Show An old mine where you can find out about the mining history of the CĂŠvennes, spanning the 13th to the 20th century.

Chemin de la CitÊ Sainte-Marie, 30100 Alès.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 30 45 15 www.mine-temoin.fr

í˘˛ Prafrance Bambouseraie Created in 1856 in the heart of the CĂŠvennes, this exotic botanical garden has become the most remarkable bamboo park in Europe. More than 200 varieties of bamboo can be seen in this 32-hectare area.

Direction: Anduze to GĂŠnĂŠrargues.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 61 70 47 www.bambouseraie.fr

í˘ł MusĂŠe du DĂŠsert A museum about the history of Protestantism and the war of the Camisards, churches in the wilderness ‌ Nearby, you can visit the stone arches of the 17th century Camisards Bridge.

Mas Soubeyran 30140 Mialet.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 85 02 72 www.museedudesert.com

SUDDEFRANCE - 8 -

ě?ƒ Chez DĂŠdet

í˘˛ Boutique Origine CĂŠvennes A typical product of the CĂŠvennes, sweet onions, are grown on terraces and harvested in late summer. The Origine CĂŠvennes cooperative – which includes about a hundred producers – sells onion products directly from their shop.

Route de Valleraugue, 30570 Saint-AndrĂŠde-Majencoules.

TĂŠl. 04 67 82 50 64 www.oignon-doux-descevennes.fr

í˘ł Les 3 Barbus The owners of this hotelrestaurant with a terrace overlooking the Valley of the Camisards, called on JĂŠrĂ´me Nutile, winner of the MOF best French craftsmen award, to create the menu for their establishment, which has since earned the status of a gourmet restaurant.

Route de Mialet, 30140 GĂŠnĂŠrargues.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 61 72 12

RELAX

ě?ƒ Le Jardin des Sambucs A private garden to visit, where you can also stay (in a gĂŽte) or enjoy a simple but divine snack lunch: courgette and lemon soup, bulgur with almonds and tomatoes, carrot and herb cake, edible flowers, borage and marigolds from the garden.

Le Villaret route de Valleraugue, 30440 Pont-d’HÊrault.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)6 82 49 59 19.

ACCOMMODATION ě?ƒ Mas des Bulles

Sleep in a transparent bubble on a hillside with a canopy of holm oak trees spread out before you.

This is the ecotourism experience proposed by the Mas des Bulles, about ten kilometres from Alès.

Le Terme 30140 Saint-SÊbastiend’Aigrefeuille.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 25 15 86 www.masdesbulles.com

í˘˛ Le Mas de la Taillade This farmhouse is more than 200 years old and has been completely renovated and redecorated in hypercontemporary style, offering two bedrooms and a very luxurious suite.

La Taillade 30430 MĂŠjannes-le-Clap.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 24 00 79 www.le-mas.com

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CLASSICS CAUSSES AND CÉVENNES

CÉVENNES

Anduze, bastion of Protestantism and potters On the road to Anduze, many of the potteries follow the ancient tradition that produced the famous vase of Florentine inspiration, which bears the name of the city, recognizable by its garlands and medallions in shades of honey, olive green and brown (photo). Southern gateway to the Cévennes, Anduze is a smiling city. Leading off the main street with its many restaurant terraces are narrow, winding streets with a Medieval feel to them. The 14th century Clock Tower is the only trace of the ramparts that once protected this military centre, a bastion of Protestantism. In the middle of the covered square that houses the indoor market, there is the strange “Pagoda Fountain” with its colourful rounded glazed tiles. The square is overlooked by the Protestant church, one of the biggest in France, where concerts are regularly held.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 66 61 98 17 www.anduze-tourisme.com

Alès, capital of the Cévennes Alès, a former mining town, stretches along the Gardon River, its four large parks earning its title as one of France’s “flower cities”.

In the streets you will find the Cathedral of St John the Baptist, and the Vauban fort, a citadel built in the Vauban style. You will have to cross the Gardon to visit the Pierre-André Benoît Museum, named after the art printer and friend of the great painters, who donated his private collection to his hometown.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 66 52 32 15 www.ot-ales.fr

The silk history of Saint-Hippolytedu-Fort In Saint-Hippolyte-du-Fort, in the time it takes to visit the silk ecomuseum, you can reconnect with the rich past of the Cévennes, when the region was one of the top silk producers in the world. In the museum magnanery, silkworm breeding still goes on for educational purposes. In the spinning mill next door, where the cocoons are emptied, you can learn about the various traditional spinning techniques.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 66 77 66 47 www.museedelasoiecevennes.com

Unique landscapes on the ledge of the Cévennes From Anduze, you can take the sublime D9 secondary road, perched on the ledge of the Cévennes, which offers breathtaking scenery, mountains and valleys folding into the distance. You arrive in Florac in Lozère, headquarters of the Cévennes National Park, housed in the feudal castle of Florac. Nearby, the waters of Pesquier spring tumble down the limestone bolders in a series of cascades.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 66 49 53 00 www.cevennes-parcnational.fr

Portes, a stone vessel anchored to the mountain North of Alès, this ancient fortress surveys the valley, rather like the prow of a ship perched up on the ridge. Raised in the 11th century, the castle overlooks the Regordane Way and includes is a beautiful 3 storey Renaissance house with monumental fireplaces.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 66 54 92 05 www.chateau-portes.org

Vézénobres, crossroads of the south Built to survey the area surrounding the Regordane way (one of the Ways of St James) between the Mediterranean and Auvergne, this lovely perched village became very prosperous thanks to agriculture. The ruins of its castle still dominate the scene, overlooking the confluence of its two main tributaries the Gardon d’Alès and the Gardon d’Anduze (hence the local name for the area “Gardonnenque”).

There are superb views of the garrigue and the Cévennes, and as you wander through the village you will discover beautiful medieval houses, the oldest of which date back to the 12th century. Famous for its fig production, Vézénobres continues to celebrate this fruit with a fig festival in November and a fig orchard-conservatory.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 66 83 62 02 - www.vezenobres-tourisme.fr/

SUDDEFRANCE - 9 -

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CLASSICS THE VAUBIAN FORTRESSES

◗

TO SEE/MONT-LOUIS HIGHEST WALLED TOWN When France won Roussillon back from Spanish power in 1659 and signed the Pyrenees treaty that ended the war, Vauban, the military architect, was asked to find the new Conflent stronghold. After much investigation, this was the site chosen, in Mont-Louis (Pyrénées-Orientales), at the meeting point of the Conflent, Capcir and Cerdagne. Work began in 1679. From the citadel, the soldiers could keep an eye on their rival’s stronghold, Puigcerdá, in Spanish territory. Beneath the citadel lies the civil section which was only inhabited a few decades later.

Mont-Louis now counts some 300 inhabitants. Perched at an altitude of 1,600 metres, it is considered to be the highest fortified town in France. Its fortifications are listed as Unesco World Heritage and still house one of the last military units to occupy a site designed by Vauban : “le Centre National d'entraînement Commando” toughens up 4,000 trainees in this place each year.

VILLEFRANCHEDE-CONFLENT

•

www.mont-louis.net.

Enduring fortresses Villefranche-de-Conflent, listed as Unesco World Heritage, is also one of the 14 “Forts Vauban” listed sites.

V

illefranche (Pyrénées-Orientales) is renowned for its pink marble facing and, above all, for its surrounding fortifications to which it owes its name Villefranche, meaning “well-guarded”. The medieval city was founded in 1092 by the count of Cerdagne, to protect the surrounding valleys from invasion.

The French conquered the town in 1654, obliging the Spanish to retreat. The fortifications were subsequently dismantled by the subjects of the king of France. Then, in 1669, the ramparts were built once again

according to plans drawn up by certain Marquis de Vauban. The latter was appointed Marshal of France by Louis XIV for having given France an “Iron belt”, an allegory of the multiple fortifications, including Villefranche, designed by the military architect.

As visitors stroll along its paved streets, they can still make out the remains of the town as it was in the Middle Ages. “La tour du Diable”, near the church, originally dates back to the medieval period as do “la porte du Roussillon” and the “la porte de France”.

The fortifications and the famous Fort Libéria both date back to the Vauban period. Created by the architect in 1681, the fort lies outside the city, set into the mountainside.

It looks out over the town to which it is connected by an underground passageway, commonly named the “one thousand step” stairway. In fact, there are only 734 steps...

But nothing beats. ◗ www.villefranchedeconflent.com SUDDEFRANCE - 10 -

◗

TO SEE /SOLAR FURNACE Installed in 1947 within the Vauban citadel, the Mont Louis Solar Furnace is a precursor of solar energy. A visit that is both unusual and informative.

www.four-solaire.fr

◗◗◗ ◗

CLASSICS THE WAYS OF ST. JAMES TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

TO SEE/THE VIA TOLOSANA, A ROMAN WORK OF ART The Via Tolosana, otherwise known as the Arles Way, was travelled by pilgrims whose journeys started in Central Europe, Provence and the Apennine Peninsula. Sharing a section of the route with the Roman Domitian Way, this southbound journey passes through Gard and the highland towns of Hérault to link up with Toulouse. The first stage in LanguedocRoussillon, marked on maps as GR 653, starts out from the celebrated abbey of Saint-Gilles, a Roman work of art, reputed for its intricately sculpted tympanum, dating back to the 12th century and depicting scenes from both the New and Old Testaments.

The Way of Saint James spans the surrounding agricultural lands within Petite Camargue and Montpellier. In the city of Montpeller itself, a pedestrian pathway fixed to the ground with bronze studding follows a part of the original pilgrimage route. The path leads to the famous Pont du Diable (“Devil’s Bridge”) (photo), the oldest Roman bridge in France built by monks from the neighbouringcommunities, including the abbey of Saint-Guilhemle-Désert, another essential stop-over point.

From here the path climbs up towards Lodève and then Arboras, built on the foothills of Larzac, and finally, the priory at Saint-Michel de Grandmont. Beyond this, the Way of Saint James leaves the Languedoc-Roussillon region and makes its way to Lauragais and the plains of Toulouse.

In the footsteps of the pilgrims Of the four historic pilgrimage routes leading to the relics of Saint James in Spain, two pass through Languedoc-Roussillon: the Chemin d’Arles and the Chemin du Puy-en-Velay.

LAJO

ST-ALBAN AUMONT-AUBRAC MALBOUZON

VIA PODIENSIS NASBINALS

ST-CHÉLY-D’AUBRAC CONQUES

ESTAING

ESPALION

VIA TOLOSANA LODÈVE

ARLES

LE CRÈS

CASTRES ST-GERVAIS SUR-MARE REVEL

ST-GUILHEMLE-DÉSERT

VAUVERT

LA SALVETATSUR-AGOUT

VILLEFRANCHE DE-LAURAGAIS

T

he strength and beauty of these spectacular routes, with a host of monuments and unique tourist sites marking the way were surely factors in the decision made by Unesco to add the Way of Saint James to its list of world heritage sites in 1998. In 813 the tomb of Saint James the Greater was thought to have been unearthed in Santiago de Compostela and ever since, these pathways have seen a steady stream of pilgrims making the journey on foot to see histomb. Since the 12th century, the “Codex Calixtinus”, written by Aimery Picaud, has provided a wealth of advice for pilgrims

from all over Europe taking the routes that lead to these relics. The Via Podiensis (“Way of Puy”) lies between Puy-en-Velay and Roncevaux and the Via Tolosana also crosses Languedoc-Roussillon from East to West and is counted among the four main routes. The Via Podiensis is the oldest of the routes leading to Compostela. Inaugurated in 951 by Bishop Godescalc, it extends over no fewer than 1,530 kilometres and starts at Puy-enVelay, crossing the magnificent heights of Gévaudan in Lozère, today labelled the GR 65.

We enter Lozère via Aumont-Aubrac. It is most probably upon this section of the route that the stunning vistas are matched only by SUDDEFRANCE - 11 -

the feeling of solitude from which the route derives its image and profound sense of spirituality. There are pastures as far as the eye can see, over which, in the summer months, Aubrac cows peacefully graze. In winter, the same scenery succumbs to an almost tragic beauty as nature and the landscapes appear to mourn the end of summer. Between Nasbinals and Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac, the route soars to 1,368 metres, one of the highest points along the route. And here, yet more astounding beauty. This point is considered a historic landmark and is symbolic of the world heritage that the the Way of Saint James represents. ◗

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CLASSICS PONT DU GARD

• LE PONT DU GARD

The Pont du Gard, a stone flagship in the garrigue Built in around 50 years AD, the Pont du Gard is the centrepiece of a 50 km long aqueduct, supplying Nimes.

And the majestic symbol of the genius of mankind.

F

or two thousand years this stone sentinel has been soaring over the river Gardon, close to the boundaries of the Gard department, not far from Nimes and Avignon. A symbol of the genius of Roman architecture, the Pont du Gard is but a tiny link of a structure stretching over 50 kilometres, connecting the sources of the river Eure, near Uzes, to Nimes which, in the first century AD, was one of the largest Gallo-Roman settlements. The aqueduct was built to provide the city with new possibilities, to create fountains and Roman baths and enhance its prestige within the Roman empire. The bridge remains the jewel of the structure with its 64 arches spread over three levels, rising to the height

of 48.77metres above the river and spanning 490 metres. This makes the Pont du Gard the highest aqueduct bridge of the Roman era. A height commanded by the slope and required to exert pressure on the water within the structure, even though the gradient is not regular throughout.

At the outcome, the Romans succeeded in building a structure weighing several million tonnes (the bridge alone is an estimated 50,000 tonnes) with a slope of less than 25 centimetres per kilometre... But in fact, this glorious edifice operated fully for barely 140 years. It began deteriorating as from the 3rd century and the aqueduct was permanently abandoned and partially dismantled for its stone in the 6th century. If the bridge was not demolished, to the contrary of the rest of the structure, it is because the water carrying viaduct was rapidly used as a crossing bridge, even though the contempt of time and mankind threatened its existence on several occasions. It was first repaired in the 1700s, to avoid its imminent ruin. The first restoration campaigns began in 1745 and as from 1840, the bridge figured on the list of major monuments.

➥ CHRONOS

• Second part of the 1st century AD

• 2nd and 3rd centuries

Period during which the aqueduct was Work on adjustments to the Nîmes in full operation: 35,000m3 of water aqueduct, which entered into service. conveyed each day from Uzès to Nîmes.

• Early 6th century

• 14th century

The aqueduct is completely abanThe road from Uzès to Beaucaire, site of a big market fair, doned. The region is divided betcrosses the bridge: the columns of the arches were moween the Franks and the Visigoths. dified with indentations to allow the passage of carts.

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TO SEE/TO DO The site of the Pont du Gard incorporates a multimedia museum offering a fabulous voyage through Antiquity. A fun way to discover Gallo-Roman civilisation and the essential role of water, the history of the aqueduct and the Pont du Gard through the centuries.

From May to September, the site of Pont du Gard becomes fairylike with the lighting up of the bridge every evening from 17 May to 14 September 2014. A pyrotechnic and son-et-lumière show, “Féeries du Pont” (Fairies of the bridge) – is also performed

by Groupe F between 6 and 14 June. Finally on 10 and 11 July there is the electro-pop festival “Lives au Pont du Gard”.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 66 37 50 99

• 1696-1702 Extensive restoration work.

The 14th century indentations are filled in.

• 1743

• 1840

• 1965

• 1985

Construction of a road bridge next to the Pont du Gard.

Inscription of the Pont du Gard in the first list of the historical monuments of France.

The Queen Mother of England visits the bridge.

Unesco lists the Pont du Gard as a World Heritage site for Humanity.

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ALĂˆS

Lussan

NĂŽMES ALĂˆS

GARD

S

Anduze Ga rd

LĂŠdignan

R

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Saint-Hippolytedu-Fort

í˘ą

í˘˛ ě?ƒ í˘˛í˘´ í˘ł Uzès í˘ąí˘˛ Saint-Chaptes rd í˘ł í˘ł

VĂŠzĂŠnobres

Remoulins

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Saint-Mamertdu-Gard Marguerittes

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NIMES Bouillargues

as World Heritage by Unesco in 1985, ➼ Listed the Pont du Gard has been entirely redeveloped over the past decade, to become the jewel within a setting of 165 hectares with areas of special interest, the museum of the bridge and aqueduct, a games library and arboretum in the garrigue, hosting an increasing number of events (concerts, fireworks...).

Over one million people yearly pace the bridge, the most visited antique monument in France. â—— Site du Pont du Gard, Vers-Pont-du-Gard.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)820 903 330. www.pontdugard.fr

â——

UNUSUAL/ AN INSPIRATIONAL BRIDGE Paradoxically, it was at the very time that a part of the upper structure of the Pont du Gard was looted for its stones, in the 12th century, that the design of this work inspired other builders. Some architectural elements of the old bridge, particularly its juxtaposed arches forming vaults, served as models for the construction of many Romanesque religious edifices in the region.

But the Pont du Gard also inspired the engineers of other bridges. Its system of arches was reproduced for the famous Avignon bridge, Pont SaintBĂŠnĂŠzet, in the 12th and 14th centuries. The mediaeval bridge Pont-Saint-Esprit also displays architectural elements derived from it.

DISCOVER ě?ƒ The Haribo Sweet Museum Created in 1996, the museum next to the factory that makes this famous brand of sweets traces the history of sweet making and liquorice.

With a tasting at the end!

Pont des Charettes 30700 Uzès.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 22 74 39 www.museeharibo.fr

í˘˛ Uzès Stud Farm Created in 1972, the National Stud Farm of Uzès can be visited during the summer: guides will take you on a tour of the old harnesses, saddlery and forge.

You’ll find different breeds of horses, of course, and a chance to watch Lucien Gruss training his horses.

Mas des Tailles, 30700 Uzès.

RÊservation auprès de l’Office de Tourisme.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 22 68 88 www.haras-nationaux.fr

í˘ł Museum of the 1900s and toy museum Go back in time in this charming museum with its exhibits of fire trucks, agricultural machinery, motorbikes and bicycles from the early 20th century.

Moulin de Chalier 30700 Arpaillargues.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 22 58 64 www.musee1900.fr

í˘´ The Medieval Garden of Uzès In the very heart of the town, this walled garden is tucked in between the King’s Tower and the Bishop’s Tower. You can visit he King’s room and tower with

SUDDEFRANCE - 14 -

its exceptional view across Uzès.

The garden regularly hostsS exhibitions and arts events, including “Ex’pot de fleur�, from 23 May to 31 August 2014.

Impasse Port Royal 30700 Uzès.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 22 38 21

EATING OUT ě?ƒ La Table d’Uzès Recently crowned with a Michelin star, the young chef Oscar Garcia works miracles in this new restaurant located, with the hotel, in a sumptuous 17th century building next to the Bishop’s Palace.

18, rue du Dr-Blanchard 30700 Uzès.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 200 700 www.lamaisonduzes.fr

í˘˛ Resto Burger Generous salads with Mediterranean flavours, tasty burgers with new recipes including VĂŠzĂŠnobres fig chutney or sautĂŠed foie gras at this restaurant under the archways of the medieval buildings surrounding the Place aux Herbes.

5, place aux Herbes 30700 Uzès.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 20 21 03

í˘ł Le Tracteur Cuisine that is inspired and fresh from the market.

All at a reasonable price!

Relaxed atmosphere, with a wine cellar and art library.

Quartier Bornègre 30210 Argilliers.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 62 17 33 www.autracteur.fr

B

ACCOMMODATION ě?ƒ La Maison d’Ulysse An old fortified farm converted into a farmhouse, now with charming guest rooms following the New York concept of the “boutique-hotelâ€?. Rooms and suites with old-world charm that have been completely restored and refurnished. Spa, steam bath and swimming pool.

Place Ulysse-Dumas 30700 Baron.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 81 38 41 www.lamaisondulysse.com

í˘˛ Le Clos du LĂŠthĂŠ Luxurious guestrooms in an old priory in the midst of vineyards, 6km from Uzès. Superb 40 to 70m2 bedrooms, gym, swimming pool, and steam room available.

Hameau de Saint-MĂŠdiers, 30700 Montarenet-Saint-MĂŠdiers.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 74 58 37 www.closdulethe.com

í˘ł La BĂŠgude Saint-Pierre An old 17th century post house, this hotel near the Gardon Gorges has just been completely renovated.

Located in an enchanting setting, the guestrooms are chic and authentic. The gourmet restaurant makes the offer complete.

295, chemin des BĂŠgudes 30210 Vers-Pont-du-Gard.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 02 63 60 www.hotel-begude-saintpierre.com

◗◗◗

CLASSICS PONT DU GARD

• LE PONT DU GARD

Uzès the enchantress Halfway between Provence and the Cévennes, lost in the garrigue but not far from the Pont du Gard, the small town of Uzès (8400 inhabitants) is aptly described by its nickname “Belle de Pierre” or stone beauty. A City of Art and History, whose restoration began in the 1960s, Uzès has 37 classified or listed historical monuments.

Elegantly cobbled, restored streets enhance the beauty of the facades of mansions built in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, at a time when the Duchy of Uzès had great power and influence. Sublime monuments of this period remain, such as the Ducal Castle (in the same family for over 500 years), Fenestrelle Tower and the bell tower of Saint-Théodorit Cathedral. A city of culture pervaded by the spirit of Jean Racine or André Gide, it has the gentle lifestyle typical of the south, heightened by the markets on Wednesday and Saturday on the beautiful square Place aux Herbes surrounded by vaulted archways. www.uzes.fr

The washhouses of VersPont-du-Gard Not far from the ancient bridge, this small village has a number of underground springs, the main ones emerging at three remarkable spots: the three lavoirs (washhouses) in the village, built in the shape of pretty little ancient temples, their roofs supported by columns or pillars. www.vers-pont-du-gard.fr

Lussan, hilltop village Perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the garrigue, Lussan is one of the most beautiful villages in Languedoc with its ramparts and medieval houses. The ramparts and wall-walk offer a magnificent panorama of the Cévennes and the Mont Ventoux. Places to see in the village include the 15th century castle which is now the town hall, the ramparts and the old silk mills.

At the foot of the village is the Château de Fan, home of the writer André Gide.

From the prehistoric and geological point of view, there are two important places

to visit: the menhir or Pierre Plantée (standing stone) and the sumptuous Concluses Gorges, accessible on foot along the riverbed, testifying to the very ancient presence of man in a remarkably well-preserved natural site. www.mairie-lussan.fr

Saint-Quentin, land of ceramics With a tradition of pottery dating back to the 14th century, the village – designated an Arts and Crafts City – Saint-Quentin-laPoterie is famous for its light, grey, resonant ceramics. There are more than thirty workshops and ceramics galleries in the village, not to mention the Mediterranean Pottery Museum which traces the ceramic history of the village.

Every summer in July, the Terralha Ceramics Festival invites you on a tour of the heart of the village, to impromptu exhibition spaces where you can discover the work of contemporary ceramists? www.officeculturel.com www.les-potiers.org

Walk and swimming in the Gardon The Gardon River loops through the plateau, between Russan and Saint-Nicolas bridge, carving its way through the most beautiful cliffs in the canyon. The ridge offers a view of the gorges, the plain and the Cévennes, especially from the panoramic viewpoint at Castellas (free access). There are places to swim along the Gardon, but you can also go canoeing, hiking, caving (the Gardon Gorges are rich in caves).

There’s a good swimming spot setting out from the village of Sénailhac, and taking the GR 6 (signposted circuit) to get to a loop in the river.

A sublime landscape, not far from the hermitage and chapel of Sainte-Vérédème. From here you can walk down to the Gardon by the cliff, past Baume cave.

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CLASSICS CARCASSONNE •CARCASSONNE

The Cité de Carcassonne, A ship of stone a thousand years at anchor

A

n “oppidum” (a fortified hillside camp) in ancient times, Carcassonne became a fortress from the 11th century onwards. As they enter through the main gate, visitors are literally caught up in the maze of paved lanes. The City is known for its famous and impressive illumination on the evening of the 14th of July. It is also famous for its music festival.

But we sometimes forget the history of the monument, listed as World Heritage by Unesco in 1997.

Yet over 3 million people tread its ground each year. The children, bearing harmless swords with undetermined coats of arm, prove that the spirit of the place remains fascinating.

At each turn of the road, if we carefully look at certain buildings, we can make out the traces of dungeons, oubliettes or loopholes in memory of its warrior past.

However, the City of Carcassonne is not an open air museum. A hundred or so people still live in its dwellings, protected against any assault by the 3 kilometre long walls and 52 towers.

A blessed basilica and a castle There’s no question of merely strolling the lanes and enjoying the famous home cooked cassoulet that helped to bring fame to the city. As the Saint-Nazaire basilica, whose

stones were blessed by Pope Urbain II in 1096, has everything it takes to fascinate the curious beginning with its stained glass windows. Its magnificent “Tree of Jesse”, that adorns the Virgin’s chapel in the northern wings of the basilica, probably dates back to the end of the 13th century. It represents an allegory of the Christian people, depicted by the ancestors of Jesus Christ. We can also admire the organ dating back to the 17th century, the roman archways above the nave, or the supposed tomb of Simon de Montfort, a key figure of the crusade against the inhabitants of Albi. Another essential visit: the castle founded by the Trencavel dynasty in 1150.

The building served as a stately home. Then, when the city was taken by the crusaders, the seneschals of the King of France turned it into a true fortress within the fortress. Today, the castle serves as a lapidary museum and houses a large collection of statues, sarcophaguses and objects typical of the Gallo-Roman and medieval periods.

1,000 years of history and conquests This popular tourist site, overlooking the valley Aude, finds its origins in the Gallo-Roman era. It was in around the 1st century BC that Carcassonne began to take on the substance of a small town. At that time, it was a small oppidum, a sort of refuge, nestled in a safe place on the top of a hill. It developed thanks to its ideal situation. Carcassonne is indeed

➥ CHRONOS

• Around 300 BC

The Volcae Tectosages fortified the hill settlement of Carcasso.

• 725 Wali Ambisa took Carcassonne and Septimanie following the conquest of the Visigoth kingdom of Spain and held it for 27 years.

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• 1130

• 1226

Construction of the Château Comtal begins under Bernard Aton.

The fortified city comes under the reign of the king of France.

TO SEE /TO DO FESTIVAL OF CARCASSONNE Every summer, the fortified city of Carcassonne is the grandiose setting of a festival of concerts, theatre and dance performances from 19 June to early August, by internationally renowned artists.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 68 115 915 www.festivalde carcassonne.com CHATEAU COMTAL Visit the castle, the watchtower, the Basilica and the museum directed by the Centre for National monuments. Visits are available with an audio guide or a lecturer (45 mn).

Tél. 04 68 11 70 70 www.monumentsnationaux.fr

• 15th century The fortified city becomes a state prison.

• 17th century The fortified city is gradually abandoned, unable to resist the new gunpowder weapons.

• 1659

• 1844

• 1997

The Treaty of the Pyrenees considerably reduces the strategic character of the fortified city.

Viollet-le-Duc begins restoring the old Basilica of Saint Nazarius.

Listed as a World Heritage site for Humanity.

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Montagne Noire í˘˛ Mas-Cabardès

â——

INTERESTING TO NOTE/ 170 YEARS AGO, VIOLLET-LE-DUC In 1834, Prosper MÊrimÊe, then Inspector General of historical monuments, came under the spell of the dilapidated city: the walls were crumbling and its stones had been looted. In 1844, 170 years ago, the first restoration works began with the Basilica of Saint Nazarius under the responsibility of Eugène Viollet-le-Duc , who had restored the Basilica of Vezelay and he began work simultaneously on Carcassonne and Notre Dame of Paris.

At his death in 1879, the work was continued by his disciple Paul Boeswillwald. Viollet-le-Duc did however sign the rehabilitation of the Basilica, the Narbonnaise Gate, the Saint-Nazaire Gate and the fortifications in the west and north.

His choices were criticized: in the citadel, the conical roofs and slate flooring clash with the Roman remains. But today, the touch of the man whose bicentenary is celebrated today is valued as one of the multiple stages in the architectural history of the fortified city.

Exposition ÂŤViollet-le-Duc trait pour traitÂť from 12th June to 21st September 2014 at Chateau of the Counts.

Cabardès í˘ą í˘˛

Castelnaudary

Conquessur-Orbiel

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ě?ƒ CARCASSONNE í˘ąí˘łí˘ł

Alzonne

í˘ľ

PeyriacMinervois

MontrĂŠal

Fanjeaux

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LÊzignanCorbières Capendu ie Orb

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tic ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. The City’s many assets, over the centuries, captured the interest of invaders from many different shores. Beginning with the Wisigoths who seized the ramparts in the 5th century.

B Then came the turn of the Saracens to claim the city walls. In 1082, Carcassonne became the property of the Trencavel family.

But that dynasty was not to last long either.

Two centuries down the line, the famous crusaders took hold of it and built the second wall, giving the City its current aspect. In the 18th century, it was abandoned, as was the case for many monuments dating back to the Middle Ages. Its houses and walls fell into disrepair. It was only towards the middle of the 19th century that the restoration works undertaken by a certain Eugène Violletle-Duc rescued the old stones doomed to certain death.

Nowadays, the City of Carcassonne draws many a crowd... far more well-intentioned.

No invaders on the horizon. Just visitors looking for paving stones, towers and vestiges, scattered over the thousand years of history that forged the City as it stands today. â——

Saissac

í˘ł

A

in the middle of a strategic road linking ➼ right Lauragais, Corbières or, yet again, the Atlan-

CARCASSONNE NARBONNE Alaigne

Lagrasse

Saint-Hilaire

LIMOUX

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DISCOVER ě?ƒ MusĂŠe de l’Êcole An ethnographic, fun museum presenting school as it was between 1880 and 1960 in the French countryside, with a reconstituted classroom.

3, rue du PlĂ´, 11000 Carcassonne.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 25 95 14

í˘˛ Pic de Nore The highest point of the Black Mountains, the Pic de Nore, between entre Pradelles-Cabardès and Castans on the border of the department of Aude, rises to 1211 metres, in a flat surrounding landscape.

An orientation table presents a panorama of the mountains of Lacaune, Espinouse and the Corbières as far as Canigou and the Carlit massif.

D. 87

í˘ł Saint-Papoul Abbey First a monastry in the 8th century then a Benedictine abbey, Saint-Papoul was raised to a diocese in the 14th to 18th centuries. The apse of the church is a jewel of Romanesque art.

Neau cloisters.

5, place Monseigneur-deLangle, 11400 Saint-Papoul.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 94 97 75

í˘´ Dinosaur Museum An amazing place with 18 full skeletons of dinosaurs and full scale animation of the formidable T.Rex. 11260 EspĂŠraza.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 74 26 88 www.dinosauria.org

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í˘ľ Le Seignadou de Fanjeaux A An important historical site

of the Lauragais, the little village of Fanjeaux contains some surprising architectural gems: the house of Saint-Dominic, a 13th century parish church, a lovely 18th century market hall. And the Seignadou; a headland with a superb view from which St Dominic would have seen the wonders and established his first Dominican community. www.fanjeaux.com

EATING OUT ě?ƒ Le Parc Franck Putelat The best restaurant in town, with 2 Michelin stars.

Highly inventive cuisine based on produce of the terroir, such as a bouillabaisse of duck foie gras.

80, chemin des Anglais, 11000 Carcassonne.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 71 80 80 www.restaurantparcfranckputelat.fr

í˘˛ Moulin de Cucugnan Roland Feuillas is an authentic miller and baker, renowned throughout France for his flour made from old varieties of wheat, and for the flavour of his bread.

Rue du Moulin, 11350 Cucugnan.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 33 55 03

í˘ł L’Atelier de la truffe Truffle specialist, Philippe Barrière has opened a boutique devoted to truffles, including a tasting area.

51, rue Trivalle, 11000 Carcassonne.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)6 30 35 52 72

ACCOMMODATION ě?ƒ Les Anges au plafond Charming guest rooms in an apartment over the old village cafĂŠ. Light rooms with a harmonious decor.

A pleasant welcome.

Rue de la Mairie, 11170 Montolieu.

TĂŠl. 00 33(0)4 68 24 97 19

í˘˛ MĂŠtairie Montplaisir Tastefully decorated guest rooms in an old farmhouse 15 minutes from Carcassonne, on the banks of the Orbiel River.

Dinner also served.

2, avenue RenĂŠ-Cassin, 11600 Conques-sur-Orbiel.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 25 87 16 www.metaieriemontplaisir.com

í˘ł La Barbacane In a neo-medieval centenary setting, the starred restaurant (part of the Hotel de la CitĂŠ) offers gourmet cuisine in the heart of the citadel.

Place Auguste-Pierre-Pont, 11000 Carcassonne.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 71 98 71 www.hoteldelacite.fr

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CLASSICS CARCASSONNE •CARCASSONNE

Montolieu, the scholarly village Between the foothills of the Black Mountains and south of Cabardès, Montolieu spreads out in the midst of steep gorges. Surrounded by vineyards and their “capitelles” – small dry stone huts – Montolieu has been enriched with bookstores, arts and crafts and a museum of book crafts.

Everything here invites you to read and discover paper, from traditional printing to binding. Workshops offer a chance to conduct a real book project. The book village was created at the initiative of Michel Braibant, a bookbinder living in Carcassonne, who wanted to create a book village like those in Great Britain or Belgium.

The project began to shape here twenty-five years ago.

In 1991, a museum of book crafts was opened to the public.

Today, Montolieu’s reputation is well established, with fifteen bookstores, a museum – conservatory and art and craft workshops. www.tourisme-cabardes.fr

Limoux, cradle of the carnival With over 2000 years of history and a wonderful historic heritage including a medieval bridge, Limoux is doubly famous for its wine made by the champagne method – Blanquette de Limoux – and its carnival, over 1000 years old and the longest in the world.

Each winter, from February to April, Limoux celebrates the “Fecos”; masked figures dressed as Pierrots invade the city centre to dance in the cafes under the arches.

The procession takes place three times a day, the most amazing being the night procession, when, lit by torches specially made for the occasion, the show takes on a poetic form, accompanied by the haunting rhythm of the orchestra. Limoux Carnival is one of the most famous in the world, like the carnivals of Rio or Venice. www.limoux.fr

Caunes-Minervois, a heritage of marble At the heart of the Carcassonne region, the small town of CaunesMinervois nestles around its massive Benedictine Abbey.

But the small town contains

remnants of the city walls and a remarkable architectural heritage: narrow streets, beautiful mansions like Sicard Hotel and Alibert Hotel, comprising the most complete example of Renaissance architecture in Aude.

Caunes-Minervois gained international renown with its “crimson” marble production, of a reddish-orange colour that was very fashionable in the 18th century and was used to decorate the Grand Trianon in Versailles, the Paris Opera and the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. The old Roy quarry, on the trail of the same name, is worth a visit. www.mairiedecaunes.fr

Lastours and its 4 castles Built on a rocky spur, Cabaret, Tour Régine, Surdespine and Quertineux are the four castles surrounding the medieval village, which in the 12th century formed the stronghold of Cabaret, whose lord defended the cause of the Cathars. After the fall of Minerve and Termes, the Lastours castles were where the survivors took refuge until 1211. The village was abandoned in the middle of the 13th century, but the ruins still stand as sentinels of the past.

See also, a flora and fauna trail. wwww.chateauxdelastours.com

Castelnaudary, gourmet town Granary of Languedoc since the Middle Ages, the Lauragais plain is a real palette of colours: the fields of wheat, corn, sunflower and beans around Castelnaudary add golden hues to this this rich, tranquil area at the foot of the Black Mountains. This is a land of history, and the site of numerous clashes at the time of the Cathars, during the Hundred Years War and later, the civil wars of the Fronde. But Castelnaudary has a certain sweetness of life with the interesting corners of its old town and of course the Canal du Midi and the large 7-hectare port, which makes it such a pleasant stopover point. But Castelnaudary is especially famous, internationally, as the world capital of cassoulet, this dish of Lauragais beans, pork sausage and duck. This delicious, rustic dish is celebrated every year in late August, during the memorable Cassoulet Festival. In 2007, the " Road of the Cassoulet of Castelnaudary” was even created, devoted to heritage and cuisine. www.castelnaudary-tourisme.com

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CLASSICS CANAL DU MIDI

Canal du Midi: A Boatman’s Paradise

P

ierre-Paul Riquet’s masterpiece, built in 1666 and 1681 to link the river Garonne to the Mediterranean Sea (hence its initial name: “canal of the two Seas”), hides within its meanders some 328 civil engineering structures: tunnels, locks, spillways*, bridges, etc.

The challenge, at that time, was to bring water from the Montagne Noire to Nauouze, the highest point along the route.

Pierre-Paul Riquet’s engineering genius gave rise, after 14 years of unremitting work (a vocation for the builder who poured his entire life and fortune into the project), to this route dotted with civil engineering structures that defy the laws of physics and are an ode to beauty. The masterpieces, scattered throughout, parade along the water, and even include a few “architectural follies” such as the round lock in Agde, the Gailhousty spillway on the “canal de la Robine”, or the Malpas tunnel, forging the

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connection with Béziers.The Languedoc section, setting off from Castelnaudary, runs through to the Thau Laguna via Marseillette, Homps, and the small port of Colombiers and Portiragnes. After Somail, you may also follow the Narbonne link through the “canal de la Robine”: in an ever wilder setting, lined with umbrella pines.

As the canal unrolls its stately pace throughout, the towpaths also afford a picturesque alternative : formerly used by horses, they alternately oblige you to cross to the right bank of the canal or to join the left bank. This is another way of living life along the canal, always busy despite the apparent peace and quiet.

All along the way you’ll find villages, wine cellars open for tasting, open air cafés where people gather to enjoy the summer evenings before bedtime. ◗ * Spillway: a structure to drain surplus water from the canal.

TO SEE/FEATS OF TECHNOLOGY Ninety-nine locks between Toulouse and Agde, five navigable aqueducts over running water, tunnels, siphons, barrages, overflow channels… In all, 328 engineering works mark the course of the Canal du Midi. A real feat, considering that when the canal was designed, Riquet had hardly any examples on which to base his work, since few existed at the time.

While the Fonserannes locks are impressive even today, other works deserve attention and respect: the port of Castelnaudary, the Agde Round Lock, etc. Special mention must be made for the water-bridges, those spectacular works letting the canal pass over another body of water! Only the Répudre water-bridge is Riquet’s work; the others were added when the Canal du Midi was modernised, notably by Vauban. The latest modifications were made in the 1970s.

CHRONOS

• 4 July 1665

Pierre Paul Riquet writes to Colbert, the Controller-General of Finances, to submit his project for the canal.

• 1666

• 1679

• 1st October 1680

• 15 May 1681

Louis XIV signs the edict authorising construction of the Canal du Midi.

Completion of the staircase of locks in Fonsérannes.

Death of Pierre Paul Riquet.

Inauguration of the canal, which was opened to traffic in 1683.

SUDDEFRANCE - 20 -

TO SEE/TO DO Ensérune, to the southwest of Béziers and not far from the canal and Malpas tunnel, is the resting place of ancient remains dating from the 3rd century BC of a hill-town overlooking the plain. This island of land surrounded by pine trees, offers a panoramic view across the dry lake of Montady.

Maison du Malpas.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 67 32 88 77 www.lemalpas.com Along the canal, the hamlet of Somail in the commune of Saint-Nazaired’Aude, features a delightful 17th century architectural ensemble.

You can sleep in a room in the old guard house and sample the excellent cuisine at the Comptoir Nature.

Le Comptoir Nature.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 68 46 01 61

TOULOUSE

A CANAL UNITING THE GARONNE

SÈTE

WITH THE MEDITERRANEAN. BÉZIERS

AGDE CARCASSONNE

NARBONNE

CANAL DE LA ROBINE

• 1764 Start of tree plantation along the canal.

• 1776

• 1810

• 1857

• 1989

• 1996

Construction of the Canal de la Robine to access Narbonne.

Carcassonne is connected to the Canal du Midi.

Opening of the Canal Bridge to cross the Orb River in Béziers.

End of goods navigation on the canal.

UNESCO lists the canal as a World Heritage Site.

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LUNCH AT PONT DU GARD. SUDDEFRANCE - 22 -

THE MEDITERRANEAN

30/31 BEACH PORTFOLIO

38/57 CITIES

42/45 ARCHITECTURE PORTFOLIO

58/71 TERROIRS

DESTINATIONS

24/37

In Languedoc-Roussillon, the unexpected is everywhere : how different is the Cataluña of Collioure from the Camargue of AiguesMortes, even though both share the same sweep of land around the Mediterranean.

What a contrast between Uzès the elegant and the Carcassonne the Cathar!

From Montpellier the impetuous, to Narbonne the Roman, Pézenas of the Languedoc and Alès of the Cévennes, from Agde the langorous to Mende the discreet, Nîmes the Latin to Perpignan the Catalonian, diversity is the key word.

So many landscapes, so many atmospheres, so many thousands of subtle fragrances.

Languedoc and Roussillon are a marriage of sky and earth, of mountain and sea.

For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.destinationsuddefrance.com

SUDDEFRANCE - 23 -

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN PAULILLES / PORT-VENDRES

• PAULILLES

Paulilles, the jewel of the Côte Vermeille SEASIDE PATH ON THE CÔTE VERMEILLE.

Paulilles, a protected area sheltered remarkable flora and fauna, is absolutely unique.

A

n immense bay at the foot of the Albera Massif, close

by Port-Vendres, Paulilles is the supreme symbol of the wild beauty of the Côte Vermeille, from Cerbère to Collioure. A landscape of contrasts between vine and sea, nestled between Cap Béar and Cap Oullestrell, Paulilles offers three beaches – with lifeguards on duty in the summer – under the towering shale cliffs, amidst luxuriant Mediterranean vegetation.

The area became a listed site in 2011, to the benefit of Pallid Swifts, Blue Rock Thrushes, and Spectacled Warblers, all of whom find refuge here. Idyllic as this setting may seem, its history has been explosive ... it was once a dynamite factory!

This uninhabited area was chosen in the 19th century for the plant, which was in operation until 1984, when it became a brownfield site much coveted by real estate developers. The site was saved and transformed into a memorial space dedicated to Paulilles’ labour history, open to the public since 2008.

A workshop for the restoration of catalanes, the region’s traditional fishing boats, has also been established. One of the other Paulilles beaches features a restaurant with a unique nighttime ambiance and a magnificent shoreline path for strolls between mountain and sea, towards Banyuls or Port-Vendres, by way of Cap Béar and its lighthouse. ◗

Maison du site de Paulilles : 00 33 (0)4 68 95 23 40 Map of walks around Port-Vendres for sale at the Office de Tourisme.

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WHAT TO SEE/PORT-VENDRES, A TYPICAL PORT The main fishing port in Roussillon as well as being a commercial port, Port-Vendres is a few kilometres from Collioure and considers itself as rather quieter. The town, remodelled in the 17th century, has many memories of the past. The monuments designed by Vauban witness this splendour. The Obelisk in pink Roussillon marble to the glory of Louis XVI stands imposingly by the port. This is where, from 8am to 10am the local fishermen come to sell their sardines, at the corner of Quai Pierre Forgas. www.port-vendres.com

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN COLLIOURE

Collioure, pearl of Roussillon

COLLIOURE BAY AND THE CHURCH OF NOTRE-DAME-DES-ANGES.

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TO SEE/THE PATH OF FAUVISM

In 1905, Matisse and Derain discovered the little fishing port of the Côte Vermeille. Inspired by the beauty of the landscape and the light, that summer they produced drawings, water colours, and oil paintings, in a burst of creativity. Unbound from the artistic constraints current in Paris, giving free rein to colour (Matisse painting the Collioure beach in red), the two painters originated the artistic movement known as Fauvism. Derain made only one visit, but Matisse returned four times to Collioure. Today, a walking tour through the tiny streets of the village follows in the footsteps of the two artists through a series of twenty reproductions of their works, mounted on the very spots where they were painted.

Guided tour, the path of Fauvism : 00 33 (0)4 68 98 07 16

F

rom the sea, it is sculpted with coves, giving it the air of a princess.

The terraced vineyards surrounding the town mark out the colours of the landscape. Often cited as a typical picture postcard village, Collioure, jewel of the Vermillion coast, can take on the air of a Cretan village, an Italian landscape or a grand Catalan.

It was a summer residence of the Kings of Majorca in the 12th century, before passing into the hands of the kings of France: Louis XI and Charles VIII. It was successively under the Crown of the Aragon kingdoms of Majorca and France. It must also be said that in medieval times, Collioure ruled the Mediterranean, as it was the port from which Perpignan fabrics were shipped out by the Catalan navy. Collioure as we know it today, was modelled by the engineer Vauban, who fortified the Royal Castle before the 1659 Treaty of the Pyrenees finally connected Roussillon to France. This period of conquests saw the enlargement of the castle, an imposing building overlooking the bay, while modifications were made to the town, and yet Collioure has kept traces of its medieval past. Keystone of the defence system, the Royal Castle was developed in the 13th and 18th centuries and listed as a historical monument in 1922. Fort St. Elmo, Notre-Dame-des-Anges, whose foundations SUDDEFRANCE - 25 -

• COLLIOURE

Jewel of the Vermillion Coast, Collioure is a preserved setting on the shores of the Mediterranean.

bathe in the Mediterranean, and Madeloc Tower all add to the renown of the city.

A veritable muse for painters But Collioure remains incomparably poetic.

Firstly, through its history, and the way in which the streets of this harbour town express their link with the arts. Houses bathed in colour invite you to wander and daydream. Collioure inspired the Fauvist painters with its light, its broad palette of colours and multiple profiles. Matisse was the first to be dazzled by the sky and the light of the town, committing to canvas the colours that stood out all around him: blue sky, green shutters, salmon-coloured houses. Collioure is luminous and joyful, singing with cicadas and bathed in heaven. The houses of this ancient Mediterranean trading port are infused with shades of ochre, orange and pink. Suitors vied for its beauty. Derain and Vlaminck, Braque and, of course, Picasso were all ardent lovers of Collioure.

The city has kept its charm, surrounded by its coves, its pebble beach, the little port, authentic Catalan boats and streets full of flowers. But don’t be fooled! Collioure is a place where Catalan is spoken, where you fish for sardines and even have siestas. And of course, there’s fishing for anchovies, prepared in the same way for generations. Two

➥

Etang de Leucate

Saint-Laurentde-la-Salanque

Agly

Rivesaltes

Latour-de-France

TĂŞt

Saint-Estève

PERPIGNAN

PERPIGNAN

Millas

Etang de Canet

Toulouges

TĂŞt

Vinça

Canet-enRoussillon

Thuir Elne

P

PYRENEES-ORIENTALES

Tech ě?ƒ Argelès-í˘ąí˘˛ sur-Mer í˘˛í˘ą í˘ł í˘ąí˘˛

Port-Vendres

CERET

í˘˛í˘ł

Arlessur-Tech

í˘˛ La cuisine craft industries still produce this blue fish ➼ that benefits from the protected geographical indication label "Collioure anchovies".

And one of them has even set up a drive to order anchovies and their products online!

Throughout the town, local restaurants with their festive atmosphere (and some prestigious gourmet addresses) and galleries await the curious visitor. Strolling through the streets is a very relaxing pass time, but for those less keen on walking, a little tourist train offers a lovely ride along the coastal road and even as far as Port-Vendres, further along the coast. â—— www.collioure.com

comptoir

DISCOVER ě?ƒ The master glassmakers of Palau del Vidre For twenty years, glassmaking has thrived in the little village of Palau del Vidre, since the craftsmen first set up their workshops in the Palais du verre (Palace of Glass).

Every August, a festival of the arts of glassmaking transforms the centre into the biggest gallery of glassmaking arts in Europe. www.palau-del-vidre.com

A Latino setting with Andalusian tapas, at the bar or under the charming pergola.

4, rue de la Tour-d’Auvergne, 66190 Collioure.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 82 21 17 lacuisinecollioure.blogspot.fr

í˘ł Le Fanal Banyuls’ new gourmet restaurant, created by Pascal Borrell, and awarded a star in the Michelin guide at the beginning of 2014.

View of the harbour.

66650 Banyuls-sur-Mer. TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 98 65 88

ACCOMMODATION

í˘˛ Land

ě?ƒ HĂ´tel

of the Templars

â——

AND ALSO/ARGELĂˆS, FROM BLUE TO GREEN Nestling at the foot of the Alberes, where the Pyrenees plunge into the Mediterranean, Argelès-sur -Mer with its sixty-odd campsites is the European capital of camping. With 7 miles of sandy coastline from the natural reserve of Mas Larrieu to Racou and 3 km of rocky coastline, not to mention the two kilometres of pinewoods, the resort is very popular in summer. Between the blue of the sky and the green of the sea, with shady streets and the colourful Catalan atmosphere, Argeles has kept its authenticity. It is also within sight of Collioure. www.argeles-sur-mer.com

The largest cooperative wine cellar in Banyuls is underground and still houses giant, centuries-old barrels.

Visit and tastings.

Route du Mas Reig, 66650 Banyuls-sur-Mer. TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 98 36 92 www.terresdestempliers.fr

EATING OUT ě?ƒ Les clos de Paulilles A restaurant in a vineyard property in one of the coves of the Bay of Paulilles.

Simple menu, unique atmosphere.

Baie de Paulilles, 66660 Port-Vendres.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 98 07 58 www.clos-de-paulilles.com

SUDDEFRANCE - 26 -

4h). Looking down is the intriguing Fort BĂŠar, a military edifice from the time of Vauban, which is still used by the army. From there, the trail follows the sea down to Bernardi beach in the Bay of Paulilles. The cove has three beaches (see p. 24). The trail takes you back via Cosprons, through the vines and Col del Mig pass.

A map of the hiking trails around Port-Vendres is on sale at the Tourist Office.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 82 07 54.

RELAXING ě?ƒ Grand HĂ´tel du Golfe A small, friendly spa with massages by appointment, in a 1970s three-star hotel that has been tastefully redecorated throughout. Overlooks the sea, with a swimming pool and close to Racou beach.

A small restaurant with a warm welcome and fresh cuisine.

Route de Collioure, 66700 Argelès-sur-Mer. TÊl. 00 33 (0)4 68 81 14 73 www.hoteldugolfeargeles.com

í˘˛ Coast road to Port-Vendres IIt is impossible to come to this coast without going for a hike.

The Tourist Office has several brochures with a choice of circuits. The most beautiful one: “between sea and mountainsâ€? takes you up to the Cape BĂŠar lighthouse (duration

Casa PaĂŻral Impasse des Palmiers, 66190 Collioure.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 82 05 81 www.hotel-casa-pairal.com

í˘˛ Château de Valmy A superb 19th fantasy château with five guestrooms, blending contemporary and 19th century furniture.

66700 Argelès-sur-Mer. TÊl. 00 33 (0)4 68 81 25 70 www.chateau-valmy.com

í˘ł Au soleil Mongol AIn Sorède, in the midst of the cork oak trees at the foot of the Albères, with a view of the Canigou, tents from Mongolia – and all the furniture to match – create an amazing and exhilarating shift in atmosphere. Numerous activities are on offer, including archery, wellness massage etc..

Route d’Argelès-sur-Mer, 66690 Sorède.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)6 26 25 03 91

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN COLLIOURE • CÔTE VERMEILLE

Banyuls, privileged city The reputation of the city is a triptych of nature, culture and viticulture. The last French sea resort on this coast, Banyuls has a beautiful sand and pebble beach, and above all, it is the starting point of the underwater marine nature reserve trail.

On this site stretching 6.5 kilometres along the coast, this unique reserve of its kind protects a rocky coastline that is home to more than 1,200 animal species and 500 plant species. It is also the birthplace of the sculptor Aristide Maillol (1861-1944), whose works can be admired in the port of Banyuls (La jeune fille allongée) as well as in Céret, Elne, and Port-Vendres where he designed the war memorials. The Verny Foundation celebrates the work of the artist. Banyuls is also known worldwide for its natural sweet wine aged in impressive cellars or in full sunlight. www.banyuls-sur-mer.com

Elne, oldest city of Roussillon Protected by its ramparts, Elne is the oldest city of Roussillon and was once even more important than Perpignan. Traces of this golden age include the imposing Sainte-Eulalieet-Sainte-Julie Cathedral dating back to the 11th century and known for its beautiful cloister with historiated capitals. A History Museum traces the unusual fate of this small town through archives and documents. From here, you can enjoy the beautiful view of the hills covered with fruit trees.. www.banyuls-sur-mer.com

The organ pipes of Ille sur Têt

The “organ pipes” create a striking scene in the plain where cherry, apricot and peach trees abound. On the outskirts of the village, there is a mineral amphitheatre of sedentary rocks made of sand and clay and over 4 million years old, forming this field of "fairy chimneys" like the pipes of a magical organ, crowned with a conglomerate of pebbles. A deeply poetic place, with Canigou in the background, it is magical at dusk. Guided tours of the site. www.ille-sur-tet.com

Thuir, town of stills Capital of the Aspres massif, the medieval city of Thuir is the birthplace of the famous aperitif "Byrrh" which made its reputation.

For over 140 years, this drink made from wine flavoured with orange peel, cinnamon and coffee was widely consumed in the twentieth century. The industrial facilities designed by Eiffel still remain, including the largest tank in the world, 12m in diameter and 10 high. Byrrh continues to be produced here and the winery has recently started producing absinthe.. www.aspres-thuir.com

Céret, capital of modern art Famous for its cherries, the capital of Vallespir is also a mecca for modern art, whose history is closely linked to the major artistic movements of the twentieth century. Déodat Séverac, Pablo Picasso, Georges Braque, Max Jacob, Chaim Soutine, Marc Chagall, to name only the best known, all stayed in Céret, which is depicted in their works. Contemporary art exhibitions have been held in the village for nearly half a century and since 1993 the city has a remarkable museum of modern art rich in works by Matisse, Dufy, Chagall, Masson and a series of Picasso ceramics. A sign of the vitality of this town, which is also the main centre of Catalan culture and folklore where the Sardana is celebrated each year. www.ot-ceret.fr

SUDDEFRANCE - 27 -

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN LA CLAPE NARBONNAISE

• NARBONNE

THE VINEYARDS OF LA CLAPE.

La Clape, a doubly surprising terroir The Clape massif between Narbonne and the sea attracts lovers of unspoilt nature... and good wine, this being the home of one of the most sought after wines in the region.

T

his small range of hills (17 km long and 7 km wide) is an extension of the Corbières. Its white cliffs plunge into the sea and the lagoons (Pisse-Vache, Ayrolle, Bages - Sigean), and it was once an island. In the 14th century the Aude River flooded, changing the layout of the land: the Roman Insula Laci became La Clape, “clapas” in Occitan meaning a "pile of stones", cherished by the people of Narbonne, Gruissan and many others. Especially the winemakers, who settled part of the 13,500 hectare limestone site. There have been vines here for more than 2000 years. An exceptional terroir, this lagoon complex on the edge of the Mediterranean, between wetlands and the dry scrubland of

the garrigue, is carefully tended by the growers who produce these prize-winning wines. The National Agricultural Research Institute has even set up an experimental vineyard station here.

In the midst of garrigue flanked by a forest of Aleppo pines, this site, classified since 1973, is a haven for picnickers, bikers and climbers. Walking or riding through these hills amid scents of thyme, wild fennel and broom is a sumptuous experience! Moreover, it has been included in the Regional Natural Park of Narbonne. And it has recently been awarded the national label "Vineyards and discoveries". South of the area, in the town of Port-la-Nouvelle, the island of St. Lucie stretches between the lagoons of Ayrolle and Bages–Sigean, rimmed with ancient salt mines. 250 hectares of this area between sea and lagoons is only accessible on foot or by bicycle, via Port-la-Nouvelle along the Canal de la Robine. Migratory birds and deer have made the island their haven. During the summer season, a team is there to welcome tourists and inform them about the flora and fauna of this paradise, listed as a regional nature reserve since 2009. ◗ SUDDEFRANCE - 28 -

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TO SEE /NARBONNE NATURAL PARK With its 80,000 hectares, the area covered by the Regional Natural Park of Narbonne is one of the last preserved natural sites of this size and diversity. Here, “Spiked Magician” crickets and “Southern Festoon” butterflies are pampered, but so are the foxes, hares, badgers and wild boar that feed on the vegetation of the garrigue in the Clape massif, which blooms from mid-May to July. The environment, covering wetlands and dry garrigue has benefitted from protection and classification since 2003. www.parc-naturel-narbonnaise.fr

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN AGDE

•

A city famed for its festivals and beaches, Agde is also rich in more than 2,500 years of history.

AGDE

S

ymbol of his town, he has been in his birthday suit since… the 4th century BC ! The “princely posterior” of the Ephebe of Agde (Hérault), a bronze statue discovered in 1964 in the Grau d’Agde, has been on display since his return to his hometown in 1986 (after over 20 years at the Louvre). While the original is

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TO SEE/ANCIENT TREASURES The Ephebe of Agde, an ancient bronze statue discovered in 1964 in Grau-d’Agde, has returned to the region to display his 'princely posterior'. (For over twenty years he was exhibited at the Louvre.) The only major Grecian bronze discovered in France, he is housed in the specially-constructed Musée de L’Éphèbe, which also features Roman bronzes and various archeological objects recovered from the ocean. A copy of the statue turns motorists' heads in the centre of the traffic circle near the southern motorway.

Musée de l’Ephèbe.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 67 94 69 60 www.museecapdagde.com

LE GRAU D’AGDE.

Agde, land of hospitality conserved in the purpose-built Ephebe Museum, the replica certainly turns the heads of motorists negotiating the roundabout each day on the southern ring road. Of such paradoxes is Agde made.

Once known as the “black pearl of the Mediterranean” because of its basalt stone monuments, the city built on the remains of an ancient volcano overlooked by Mt SaintLoup has a volcanic temperament! A port city since Antiquity (it was founded in the 6th century BC), Agde has set its sights since the 70s’ and 80’s on being a seaside destination, with the construction of the resort at Cap d’Agde. Today the heliotourist centre, a 100% nudist area resort, makes this the world’s biggest nudist site in terms of numbers accommodated, with nudism the norm in the nudist village and on the “private” beaches.

But this only one side of Agde, which SUDDEFRANCE - 29 -

abounds in important heritage: the city and its ramparts, among the oldest in France, the Cathedral of St Stephen, the Ephebe museum or the rounded lock of Agde on the Canal du Midi are all popular attractions.

And then there are the fine sandy beaches, a high summer paradise for the “Textiles” (as those uninitiated in the delights of nudism are called). Gently sloping and ideal for bathing, they stretch for 14 km east to west: Richelieu beach, Môle and Rochelongue beach, the shell-covered beach and La Conque beach with its black sands. At the tip of the cape, Brescou Islet, a basalt promontory topped by an eponymous fortress, is a favourite haunt for scuba divers.

Meanwhile, up on the surface, water sports enthusiasts can choose between boarding, kite surfing and sailing. ◗ www.capagde.com

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PORTFOLIO BEACHES

PAILLOTTE BAMBOU, LA GRANDE-MOTTE.

TEMPLE BEACH, SAINT-CYPRIEN.

BIQUET, LEUCATE.

ZAZA CLUB, TORREILLES-PLAGE. SUDDEFRANCE 30 -

A BEACH, CANET-EN-ROUSSILLON.

GOLF, CAP D’AGDE.

VOILE BLEUE, CARNON.

CARRÉ MER, VILLENEUVE-LÈS-MAGUELONE.

I

n recent years, beach huts have become centres of a new and environmentally conscious art of living by the shore. From simple lounging in a beach chair to snacking to gourmet dining, there’s something for everyone!

SUDDEFRANCE 31 -

EFFET MER, LA GRANDE-MOTTE.

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN SÈTE

Sète, the little Venice of Languedoc

THE MARITIME CANAL.

Located between Thau Lake and the deep blue sea, Sète (Hérault) enjoys a distinctive and colourful cultural identity.

“C

ette” was for a long time the name of this city; it is thought that the shape of Mont Saint-Clair above suggested a whale (cetus in Latin, evolving to “ceta”) to Roman sailors. However dim the origins of the city’s name, we do know that this mount was a guiding landmark for navigators – and a refuge for pirates! It was only in the 18th century that “baraquettes” began to be built on its slopes. Families came to spend their Sunday afternoons in these little dry stone houses.

Sète owes its official beginning in 1666 to three historical figures: Paul Riquet, Louis XIV, and the Chevalier de Clerville. The first was seeking an opening on the Mediterranean for the Canal du Midi, the second a port for exporting the products of Languedoc, and the last identified the Cap de Sète as the most suitable location. So the port was created. The Saint-Louis breakwater protecting the entrance of the old port has sheltered ships and boats since then. A pic-

turesque and colourful city, Sète has two types of inhabitants. The denizens of PointeCourte, the lively lake-fishers’ neighborhood, are known in the local slang as pointus (‘pointies’). Little boats jostle trawlers along the quais, where the water-jousts are staged. When the sailors disembark, talk is loud and free and the air has a tang of saltwater. Then there are those who make their homes in the more residential hillside neighbourhoods, where you might find mansions with sumptuous Mediterranean views or the more modest houses of “Little Naples” on the heights, where many families have roots in southern Italy.

When the wine business was at its height, Sète was the world's largest coopers' port and a flourishing city. The busy port, the heart of the city, animated everything. The hawkers in the fish markets and the to-andfro of trawlers are still the stuff of daily life in Sète, even if ships are fewer than they once were. Happily, after some difficult years, Sète is once again the premier port for tunafishing, now ultra-regulated.

Sète is also an almost uninterrupted shore all the way to Marseillan-Plage: its twelve kilometres of beaches have been refurbished in the last few years. Four free parking lots have been built, as well as an inviting promenade leading out of Sète, along which in the summer beach installations and restaurant-shacks tempt holiday visitors. ◗

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TO SEE/ETANG DE THAU

Between sea and garrigue, with the Mediterranean to the south and the Via Domitia to the north, the Etang de Thau has cultivated its particularity over the centuries, as this is where oyster-farming has been practised since Antiquity.

Set between vineyards and stretches of lagoon, the villages of Bouzigues, Balaruc, Mèze and Frontignan typify the gentle Mediterranean way of life. Whether visiting prehistoric sites (dinosaur park and museum), Gallo-Roman sites (Villa Loupian), the villages with their succession of summer fetes, tasting shellfish directly from the producers or in the many restaurants around the lagoon, the experience is one of sheer pleasure. www.paysdethau.fr

www.ot-sete.fr SUDDEFRANCE - 32 -

• SÈTE

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN PALAVAS / VILLENEUVE-LÈS-MAGUELONE

• PALAVAS

Palavas, all the charm of the sea!

THE BANKS OF THE CANAL.

Made famous by the artist Dubout, the little city of Palavas-les-Flots possesses an inimitable charm.

L

ess than 10 km to the southof the region’s capital, Palavas (Hérault) has always been Montpellier’s summer destination. Tucked between the sea and a lake, surrounded by lush natural landscape and exceptional flora, for some this town on the Gulf of Lion represents an over-popular resort to be avoided, while for others it is a Mecca of fun and relaxation. It was artist Albert Dubout who popularised the image of this spa area with his drawings of the crowded and slightly madcap beaches back when paid holidays began.

He was also partial to the little train that ran till 1968, shuttling between Palavas and Montpellier and bringing crowds of city

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dwellers for a dip or to unwind for an afternoon or weekend in the casino. Camping, the symbol of cut-price holidaymaking, was for a long time another symbol of Palavas.

In the 1970s, singer Marc Charlan even mocked the town’s charms with his lyric “Je me casse à Palavas” (I’m buggering off to Palavas). But this former fishing village has other charms aplenty, starting with its 7 kilometres of gently sloping beaches, ideal for families with kids. The village has a fair number of restaurants around the canal popular with summer strollers, and straw huts where visitors can enjoy sea food with their feet trailing in the water.

The visual symbol of the town, the old water tower built in the 1940s, has been renovated with a revolving restaurant on top, offering an exceptional panoramic view over the coast. Palavas, soon to be accessible from Montpellier by cycle track, is the only deep-water yachting port in the Mediterranean and can accommodate over a thousand boats. ◗ www.palavaslesflots.com

THINGS TO DO/MONTPELLIER’S BEACH Until the late 60s, the citizens of Montpellier used to take the little Palavas train to get to the coast about ten miles away. Today, tramline 3 goes to the Etang d’Or in Pérols, just 2.5 km from Carnon and Palavas. In summer, shuttle buses are laid on to link up with the coast. A cheap bike-hire service is also

available from Montpellier. As for cars, parking space is provided on the Petit and Grand Travers.

But this is the last year for car parking, as, in the effort to protect the coastline, from 2015 onwards the road will be set back and vehicles will have to be left in relief car parks before reaching the beach.

SUDDEFRANCE - 33 -

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TO SEE/VILLENEUVELÈS-MAGUELONE The site of the former cathedral of Saint-Pierreet-Saint-Paul de Maquelone, on its vine-clustered island between lakes and sea, is a source of eternal fascination. This Roman edifice just outside Palavas was the seat of a bishopric from the High Middle Ages onward, even before the establishment of the city of Montpellier, ten kilometers away. Left to decay between the 16th and the 19th centuries, this fortified church is today a favoured stroll for Montpellier residents. It may be approached either by the shore (note that the road is closed to cars in summer) or by the enchanting village of Villeneuve, a repository of all the charm of Languedoc. The site, now occupied by the association ‘Les Compagnons de Maguelone’, which manages a work and social services centre there, features a shop with the association’s products (wine, honey, etc.) and a delightfully unexpected little restaurant. A festival of early music is held there every year in June.

Reception : 00 33 (0)4 67 50 63 63 www.compagnons-de-maguelone.org

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN LA GRANDE-MOTTE / LE GRAU-DU-ROI

• LA GRANDE-MOTTE LE GRAU-DU-ROI

THE BEACH AND THE “PYRAMID” BUILDINGS.

La Grande-Motte, nature, cultivated Combining architectural daring and green spaces, this 1960s development is listed in France's Patrimoine du XXe Siècle (20th Century Heritage).

T

oday it is France’s first seaside development to be listed as part of the Patrimoine du XXe Siècle. Fifty years ago, however, La Grande-Motte was a site for vines, asparagus, and thanks to its numerous marshes some forty species of mosquito!

To stem the rush of French holidaymakers to the shores of Spain, the French government decided in the 1960s to develop 200 kilometres of shoreline in Languedoc-Roussillon. This vast plan resulted in the construction of five seaside resorts, including La Grande-Motte, a “holiday city”.

The first time architect Jean Balladur saw the raw materials he would be working with, he was taken aback: flat country, strong wind, and crashing waves. He decided to abandon completely the functionalist aesthetic then in vogue, offering residents and visitors a cultivated and harmonious Nature, with the wind tamed, the sun softened by shaded areas, and the sea set off in beauty. Associating Inca pyramid shapes with systems of curves and incorporating sculpture in public facilities, he gave a formal identity to this new city, maintaining a verdant environment by ensuring that two-thirds of public areas were green spaces.

There are premium accommodations and recreational facilities like a pool, a golf course, a thalassotherapy centre, and gourmet restaurants; seven kilometres of beaches border the city, featuring 14 beachhut restaurants. The port, now equipped for 1,500, will soon be able to accommodate 2,100 pleasure craft. ◗ www.ot-lagrandemotte.fr SUDDEFRANCE - 34 -

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TO SEE/LE GRAU-DU-ROI Set in a watery landscape, Grau-du-Roi (Gard) revels in a popular atmosphere. The inhabitants of this royal port founded by St Louis rejoice in the amusing names of Graulens and Graulennes, spoken in a singsong accent to boot. Around the former channel with its passageway (or grau) linking the sea to the dry port of Aigues-Mortes, the city has carved out a double identity, as a high-class seaside town (it’s Europe’s biggest yachting resort, founded in 1968 as part of the Plan Racine) and a popular tourist destination.

The locality, founded by Italian immigrants in the 19th century, grew rich over time with the arrival of a community of fishermen and farmers from all over the region.

But the village’s destiny took a new turn with the development of balneotherapy in the 19th century : doctors sang the praises of the sea air and salt baths, convalescents flocked in and the town was transformed. On the right bank is the fishing port and in the city the captains’ houses, recalling the earliest days of seaside holidaying. But Grau is also lively on its left bank, past the city centre, towards the Palais de la Mer and the famous Seaquarium, then Port-Camargue. This is the dream beach for bathers from Nîmes, Cévennes, and the nearby Vaucluse, where they enjoy the sun among shops and restaurants or on the fine sand of 17 kilometres of beaches.

www.vacances-en-camargue.com

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN AIGUES-MORTES

• AIGUESMORTES

THE RAMPARTS FROM THE SALT MARSHES.

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TO SEE/THE SALT MARSH

Twixt salt and sea, the oldest salt marsh in the Mediterranean stretches out beneath AiguesMortes, forming part of the town’s economic landscape - the town’s role as a provider of salt stretches back to Antiquity. Four hundred years ago, the 15 or so existing small salt marshes were united at the initiative of a Montpellier merchant, creating the Mediterranean Salt Marsh company. The very location of the salt marshes is a reminder that the Camargue is France’s most important salt production centre.

Environmentally friendly ahead of its time, the company worked in a protected natural environment deep in the Camargue, drawing its energy from the surrounding elements. In summer, the unrefined salt gives the marshes a pinkish hue. The salt culture plays a part in keeping the region humid and rich in biodiversity. The site can be visited in a miniature train, or by 4x4.

Salins du Midi, Aigues-Mortes.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 66 73 40 23 www.visitesalinsdecamargue.com

Aigues-Mortes, the fortress city Built by Saint Louis, the mediaeval city ‘of the dead waters’ still stands.

I

n the beginning, in the 13th century, Aigues-Mortes was chosen by Louis IX, who would become Saint Louis, as a Mediterranean embarcation port.

When Provence belonged to the Holy Roman Empire and Roussillon to the Kingdom of Aragon, it was exchanged for the territory of Sommières. The city of the dead waters, then located on the bank of a great lagoon, was linked to the sea by inlets and the westernmost branch of the Rhône by immense marshlands.

Louis IX had a road built, protected by dikes, the only land access to AiguesMortes, later defended by the Tour Carbonnière.

He embarked there for his seventh crusade in 1248, then made a final embarcation SUDDEFRANCE - 35 -

from Aigues-Mortes in 1270, the eight crusade, a little before his death. But AiguesMortes would become a trading centre of the first order with the countries of the Levant.

The sainted king had the Tour de Constance built there – for a long time the city’s only defense – in order to protect the port and the town. In this royal tower were imprisoned, during the Wars of Religion, many Protestants from Nîmes, among them the leader of the Camisards, Abraham Mazel, who managed to escape in 1705, as well as many women, including Marie Durand, who refused to abjure her faith and was held there for thirty-eight years.

Wandering through the city’s art galleries is a pleasure for the eyes – and its many talented cooks make Aigues-Mortes a pleasure for the palate as well. ◗ www.ot-aiguesmortes.fr www.monuments.nationaux.fr

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SUDDEFRANCE - 36 -

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Bullfighting sets the rhythm of the summer season in Saint-Laurentd'Aigouze which houses the only example of the sacristy-bullpen in Europe (where the bullpen is part of the sacristy) listed as a historic monument, with the church alongside the arena. From the village, wide tracks cross the rice fields and meadows populated with bulls and Camargue horses. On the banks of the Vidourle, the circuit is dotted with isolated farmhouses, while in the distance, in the midst of the marshes stands Carbonnière Tower (late thirteenth century). The place known as "Martelière Vidourle" offers a lovely view from the banks of this river famed for its impetuous outbursts nicknamed “vidourladesâ€?.

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AiguesMortes Etang

í˘˛ Searching for the bittern at Scamander lagoon Scamander lagoon, typically Mediterranean wetlands, now a Nature Reserve, welcomes visitors at the discovery centre, which offers several nature trails highlighting the diversity of the natural environment and their inhabitants. In the grasses, the salt marshes and reed beds – where the reeds are still harvested – you will see the red beak of the Purple Swamphen or the colourful plumage of the Bearded Reedling. The wooded area is home to, among others, the graceful Glossy Ibis and some nine heron species present in Europe who use the site.

Scamander Centre.

TĂŠl. 000 33 (0)4 66 73 52 05 www.camarguecostieres-tourisme.fr

Saint-Chaptes

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Known in the Middle Ages for its abbey, which attracted many pilgrims and whose beautiful façade has been listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site, Saint -Gilles is a gateway to the Camargue. The town is the starting point for the many walks leading like water trails along the banks of the Rhône to Sète Canal, through vineyards and orchards or, like the Cougourlier trail to the reed beds and dried marshes with grazing bulls and a unique view of the Petite Camargue and the Scamander lagoon..

Tourist Office of Saint-Gilles.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 87 33 75 tourisme.saint-gilles.fr

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CIRCUIT GARD THE PETITE CAMARGUE ALONG THE WATERWAYS

du Lairan

Maison du tourisme de St-Laurent.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 88 17 00 www.ville-saint-laurent-daigouze.fr

í˘´ A mini-cruise on the canals from Aigues-Mortes Aigues-Mortes is itself worth a day of exploring. But it can also be an excellent starting point for a cruise on the canals. A shuttle service connects it to Grau-du-Roi, revealing yet another aspect of the principle towns of the Petite Camargue. Other circuits will take you to discover the iridescent colours of the Saline du Midi saltworks, before pushing on to the “Vidourle floodgatesâ€?– the towering metal sluice gates – to meet the fauna and flora of the Camargue in the Gard, the vineyards and rice paddies.

Tourist Aigues-Mortes.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 53 73 00 www.ot-aiguesmortes.fr

í˘ľ Immersed in books in Lunel Famous for its muscat, the town of Lunel is also known for its bullfighting culture.

But the old town has kept its narrow medieval streets worth a wander to the remains of the Knights Templar Commandery, the old Capuchin monastery or the private mansions. Opened in 2014, the MĂŠdard Museum, dedicated to the history of books, book arts and crafts, contains 5000 precious and rare books including the Natural History of Birds

SUDDEFRANCE - 37 -

by the Count of Buffon, a copy of the Decameron of Boccaccio, which once belonged to the Duke of Choiseul...

Queen of the bull runs, the San Juan arena, with seating for more than 3,000 spectators, is a high spot of bullfighting tradition, where the best bull runners compete during the Camargue bull race season starting in April. Ideal for first-timers...

Tourist Lunel.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 67 71 01 37 www.ot-paysdelunel.fr

í˘ś The stones of Franquevaux Abbey The former 12th century Cistercian abbey belonged to the Templars before returning to the family of the Viscount of Nimes, and was erected on the edge of the Scamander lagoon. It was built with stones from Fontveille quarry. When it fell into decline in the fifteenth century, many of the stones were used to build houses in the village of Franquevaux, in the heart of the wine terroir, Costière de NĂŽmes.

Cottages and bed and breakfast accommodation are available in the remains of the abbey for a unique stay in the heart of the Petite Camargue.

Franquevaux Abbey.

TĂŠl. 00 3 (0)4 66 51 05 75 www.ancienne-abbaye.com

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DESTINATION CITIES PERPIGNAN

• PERPIGNAN

THE CAMPO SANTO.

Perpignan, capital of French Catalonia The heart of Perpignan beats to the Catalan rhythm.

The last major town before the Spanish border is now a privileged gateway between Barcelona and France.

T

he assets of this town at the foot of the Pyrenees and a few kilometres from the sea: a mix of cultures and peoples that make up its wealth, its Mediterranean look and the beauty of the Pyrenean mountains surrounding it.

A long-time defender of the Spanish cause, it was indeed under the kingdom of MaSUDDEFRANCE - 38 -

jorca that Perpignan was in its prime, as the mainland capital of the kingdom. The main monuments of the town testify to this: the kings of Majorca reigned from 1276 to 1344, leaving a Gothic style of architecture behind them, a palace, a cathedral...

The Palace of the Kings of Majorca is one such symbolic monument. Building began

THE OLD TOWN CENTRE.

under the direction of King James II of Majorca and was completed in 1309 after his death. Palace and fortress, the building was a seat of political power, a royal residence and a chapel. The Palace in the Gothic style also has a luxuriant garden within its walls. From here, the visitor overlooks the plain of Roussillon.

The kingdom of Majorca also marked the birth of another important local heritage monument: the Cathedral of St John the Baptist, which stands in rue de l'Horloge.

The work began under the reign of these kings in 1324. Its base is in the Gothic style and the initial plans called for three naves to be built. In 1344, the progress of the work was greatly hindered by the fratricidal war against the kings of Aragon and the plague that was to ravage the country.

Over the years, the plans were altered. Finally there was to be only one large nave flanked by chapels and a funeral cloister, the Campo Santo, which is unique in France. The first Mass was celebrated there in 1509. The Town Hall, built in the early fourteenth century with its pebble facade is also typical of the Roussillon architecture.

The other emblem of the city is the Castillet. It was designed in 1368, under the au-

THE CASTILLET.

thority of the kings of Aragon. In the early twentieth century, the fortifications surrounding the city were demolished to open up the centre, but the Castillet was saved in extremis. Today it houses the Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions of Roussillon and the iconic flame of Saint-Jean, which is rekindled each year. A southern city, Perpignan, with its winding streets, medieval charm and palm trees in the squares, offers a relaxed and hospitable lifestyle. The people here are proud of the city and its rugby team: the USAP! But a new emblem is emerging: the brand new Théâtre de l’Archipel, a vast ensemble of rooms designed by the famous architect Jean Nouvel. This new symbol (see page 42) reflects a city whose dynamism is also expressed by its intense cultural life, as in the famous procession of San Jordi in April, the “Perpignan on stage” festival in July, and of course “Visa pour l'image” in September, the renowned photojournalism festival. Assets that combine to establish the international reputation of the city, now directly connected to Barcelona by high-speed train. ◗

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TO SEE/CANET-EN-ROUSSILLON, FROM BEACH TO LAKESIDE

Perpignan’s own seaside resort (only ten kilometres separate them), Canet-en-Roussillon has an ancient town centre with winding little streets and a castle. By the sea, a three-kilometre beach promenade offers all the pleasures of the shore. The Étang de Canet Saint-Nazaire, home of diverse wildlife, is also known for its reed fishermen’s huts, today used for stocking fishing equipment. Guided tours are offered by the Tourist Office. www.ot-canet.fr

www.perpignantourisme.com SUDDEFRANCE - 39 -

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DESTINATION CITIES NARBONNE

• NARBONNE

THE ROBINE CANAL.

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TO SEE/FONFTROIDE ABBEY Founded at the end of the eleventh century by Benedictine monks, Fontfroide Abbey became Cistercian in 1145. Its aura quickly spread beyond the boundaries of Aude to become one of the most important Cistercian abbeys of Christendom. It served as a bastion of Catholic orthodoxy in a country that was receptive to the ideas of the Cathars. It produced wine and raised cattle. After the French Revolution it gradually lost its splendour, and in 1901, the last monks left the abbey. The fact that it is so well preserved is largely thanks to the Fayet family, who bought the abandoned abbey in 1908.

In contrast to the monastic life that had existed a few years earlier, Fayet made the abbey a place of culture, frequented by several artists including the painter Odilon Redon (who painted two frescoes in the abbey), the sculptor Aristide Maillol and the composer Maurice Ravel ...

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 68 45 50 71 www.fontfroide.com

LE COURS DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE.

Narbonne, eternal In Gallo-Roman antiquity, its name was Narbo Martius.

It was the first Roman city in Gaul and preserves many vestiges of its past.

T

he reputation of Narbonne (Aude) as a “City of Art and History” is due in no small measure to its strong Roman identity. It was in fact the first Roman city in Gaul, prior even to the conquest of Julius Caesar. Founded in 118 BCE, Narbonne’s geographical location made it a veritable crossroads on the Mediterranean coast. Narbo Martius made extensive use of the Roman-built port, as well as the Via Domiziana, created at the

city’s foundation, to link Italy with Spain.

This road was originally planned to facilitate traffic between Roman garrisons, but traders soon made it their own and Narbonne became an obligatory stopping-off point.

Following the conquest of the Gauls, the town experienced a considerable economic boom, with a flourishing wine, wheat and ceramic industry. In front of the town hall, admire the paved stretch of the Via Domiziana as it looked in 100 BCE. The route led into the heart of the city via

SUDDEFRANCE - 40 -

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crossroad today’s rue de Lattre, crossing place Bistan, the former Roman Forum, before joining the Pont des Marchands above the Robine canal.

In Narbonne, it is said that the soil still hides many ancient treasures. Even if most of the Roman monuments have been destroyed, some museums and excavation sites preserve the memory of Narbo Martius. To better showcase this rich heritéage, a project has just been launched for a Regional Museum of Ancient Narbonne, which will be home to over 15,000 pieces including sculptures, mosaics, murals, and stonework. The design of the museum, which will open in 2016, has been entrusted to the celebrated English architect Norman Foster.

But the history of Narbonne, which was an Arab province for a few decades in the 8th century, is rich also with its mediaeval past

as a centre both spiritual – as symbolised by the imposing Cathédrale Saint-Just et SaintPasteur – and commercial, as well as its Occitan strain.

Narbonne, however, does not rest on its historic laurels. Its art of living invites you to enjoy today. The Baltard-style glass and cast iron market halls are the heart of the old city, and bustle with life against the background of the rich mediaeval past. With its varied natural attractions (Massif de la Clape, Massif de Fontfroide), its location amongst celebrated vineyards where wine tourism is booming, particularly with the Tourist Office’s “wine safaris”, Narbonne in summer leads a double life, adding to the attractions of the city Narbonne-Plage’s five kilometres of fine sand, a holidaymaker’s dream. ◗

TO SEE/MINERVE FATAL BEAUTY The city, hard against the Cévennes foothills of the Black Mountain, once thought itself impregnable. « No Château, except for Termes and Cabaret, was stronger than Minerve » said a chronicler at the time of the drama. The Perfect Ones, the name given to the Cathars, who followed rules based on notions of Good and Evil stricter than those of the Church, which considered the movement a heresy to be stamped out, were nevertheless trapped by Simon de Montfort in 1210. Weakened by thirst and illness, Guillaume, the Lord of Minerve, capitulated after a seven-week siege.

In this wild landscape, the Perfect Ones refused to renounce their faith and were thus sent to the bonfire, the first mass pyre in the war against the Albigensians.

The town retains its graceful vaults and natural bridges hewn in limestone, as grandiose as the town’s history is sombre. The generous city gave its name to the Minervois, the land of wine growers. It is also to a couple of winegrowers that we owe the existence of the Hurepel museum in the village of Minerva, which tells the story of the tragic episode of the Occitan Cathars through a series of clay figures.

A walk through the narrow streets of this village haunted by memories takes you past enclosures, fortified gates, posterns, cobbled streets, towers and the remains of the Château. The sober and pure décor of the church of St Etienne, the house of the Knights Templar, the martyrs’ monument and the dove of light hewn in the rock by local artist Jean-Luc Séverac never fail to enchant passers-by. www.minerve-tourisme.fr

www.narbonne-tourisme.com SUDDEFRANCE - 41 -

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PORTFOLIO ARCHITECTURE

THE 19TH CENTURY “FOLIE” PROJECT BY FARSHID MOUSSAVI, PORT-MARIANNE AREA, IN MONTPELLIER.

THE ANTIGONE DISTRICT BY RICARDO BOFFIL IN MONTPELLIER.

COSTIERES STADIUM BY CHAUSSE AND GREGOTTI, IN NIMES. SUDDEFRANCE - 42 -

NEMAUSUS BY JEAN NOUVEL IN NIMES.

THE ANGELS’ FOOTBRIDGE BY RUDY RICCIOTTI, IN ST-GUILHEM.

GEORGE FRECHE LYCÉE BY MASSIMILIANO FUKAS IN MONTPELLIER.

A region of design and architectural audacity From typical villages that look toward the future to urban centres that combine past, present and future, the Languedoc-Roussillon has resolutely chosen to be modern.

F

or decades, renowned architects have put their stamp on the major cities of the region. In the sixties, it was the famous artist Victor Vasarely who designed the entrance gate at Paul Valéry University in Montpellier. The Catalan architect Ricardo Bofill then redesigned the Antigone district in Montpellier, giving it a neo-classical touch.

Claude Vasconi covered the Corum conference Hall in pink granite. And then designer Christian Lacroix gave friendly monster look to the carriages on one of the tramway lines in the regional capital.

All the big names solicited In Nîmes, Norman Foster covered the Carré d’Art in glass and iron twenty years ago.

The designer Philippe Starck featured the city coat of arms (the palm and crocodile)

in bold street furniture in the 90s and designed the building “The Cloud” currently under construction in the Port-Marianne district of Montpellier. Jean Nouvel’s Nemausus apartment buildings in Nîmes have the look of an ocean liner and last year the famous architect also signed the new City Hall of Montpellier and the showroom of the city’s new temple of contemporary design not far from the city hall. In Perpignan, he also designed the new cultural centre Archipelago.

In the regional capital, the Anglo-Iranian architect Zaha Hadid signed PierreVives, the new building housing the departmental archives. Massimiliano Fukas designed the Georges Frêche Hotel School, again in Montpellier. In Lozère, Jean-Michel Wilmotte built Chaldette spa, after redesigning the market hall in Nîmes.

Rudy Ricciotti successively designed the superb Angels’ Footbridge in Saint-Guilhem le Desert, the new Pont de la République bridge, inaugurated in Montpellier at the beginning of 2014, and is currently working on the Rivesaltes memorial camp in the Pyrénées-Orientales. Anne Francis Gaubert and Moget designed the Museum of Contemporary Art in Sérignan around the sculptures of Daniel Buren (who also worked on the design of the entry of the Musée Fabre in Montpellier). In Languedoc-Roussillon, the big names of contemporary architecture really keep our eyes open.

SUDDEFRANCE - 43 -

Projets that go on amazing us And it’s not over; there are more major structural projects to come! In Narbonne, the famous Norman Foster has signed the architecture of the future Regional Museum of Ancient Narbonne, due to open in two years. In Montpellier, the regional capital has embarked on an ambitious design of twelve “Architectural Folies of the 21st century”, echoing the smaller “follies” of the 18th and 19th century castles and mansions built by rich citizens of Montpellier. After Farshid Moussavi’s 11storey building in Port Marianne, comes the “White Tree” by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto, who has just been named winner for the 17-storey Richter Folly.

These first two architectural units are planned for 2016-2017.

June 2014 sees the return of the Festival of Live Architecture when the courtyards of the townhouses of Montpellier will be staged and highlighted by the work of a younger generation of architects, landscape architects and planners. But Languedoc-Roussillon is also a region with a design culture that can be seen almost everywhere these days. Specialty shops in the heart of the cities or suburbs, showrooms , restaurants, hotels, guesthouses, private beaches... A way of ensuring that vital link between tradition and modernity. ◗

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PORTFOLIO ARCHITECTURE

DEPARTMENTAL ARCHIVES OF HÉRAULT, DESIGNED BY ZAHA HADID, IN MONTPELLIER.

THE NEW TOWN HALL OF MONTPELLIER, BY JEAN NOUVEL.

“LE CARRÉ D’ART”, SIGNED NORMAN FOSTER, IN NÎMES.

A HUB FOR DESIGN.

THE DEVELOPMENT OF AVENUE FEUCHÈRES IN NÎMES. SUDDEFRANCE - 44 -

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PORTFOLIO ARCHITECTURE

NORMAN FOSTER’S PROJECT FOR THE REGIONAL MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITY IN NARBONNE.

PONT DE LA REPUBLIQUE BY RICCIOTTI IN MONTPELLIER.

THE SECOND 19TH CENTURY “FOLIE” PROJECT

BY FUJIMOTO, RICHTER AREA IN MONTPELLIER.

THEATRE DE L’ARCHIPEL BY JEAN NOUVEL IN PERPIGNAN. SUDDEFRANCE - 45 -

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DESTINATION CITIES BÉZIERS

TO SEE/TO DO THE FONSERANNES LOCKS

•

A series of nine locks, allowing boats to be raised to a height of 21.50 m over a distance of 300 m. One of the showpieces of the Canal du Midi, at the ports of Béziers.

And one of the most visited sites in the region.

Chemin des Écluses.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 99 41 36 36

BÉZIERS

Béziers, city of authenticity PONT VIEUX AND ST. NAZAIRE CATHEDRAL.

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TO SEE/“FOLLIES” IN THE VINEYARDS These “Biterrois follies” bear ample witness to the economic boom Béziers experienced thank to its wine culture. While the “SaintAramon” vines slaked the thirst of the miners and metal workers of the late 19th century industrial period, outside the town, in an ocean of vines, grew the “Palais de l’Aramonie”.

Such wine châteaux mushroomed in the Biterrois countryside, vying with each other in terms of architectural boldness (and occasionally bordering on bad taste).

It is said that the profits from a single harvest back then sufficed to fund one of these châteaux, designed by the era’s greatest architects such as Bordeaux’s Garros. Baïssan, La Gayonne (pictured), La Devèze and Lirou count among these “follies”.

The Château of Raissac is the only one in the region to market its wines. Restored over 20 years ago in the non-conformist style of its owners, Christine and Jean Viennet, Raissac is also home to an earthenware museum.

Towering over the Orb and the Canal du Midi, the city made rich by vines in the 19th century abounds in hidden treasures.

S

eemingly inaccessible when viewed from the canal bridge straddling the Orb, Béziers (Hérault) looks down from the lofty heights of its majestic cathedral (St Nazaire), on a history stretching back 27 centuries. To get to the top, the walker can choose from a maze of slopes and staircases climbing the 60 or so metres separating the river from the two hills, the Saint-Jacques and Saint-Nazaire districts on which the town is built. The city, enriched in the second half of the 19th century by the wine boom, jealously SUDDEFRANCE - 46 -

guards its architectural treasures; here a Gothic pinnacle, there a Renaissance window and the ubiquitous heavy gates behind which hide sumptuous private mansions, signs of the feverish “folly” which swept through the Biterrois region in the 19th century, a time when the region was all the rage for the Parisian“smart-set”. Saved from mildew and above all phylloxera, and with the help of the Canal du Midi and the arrival of the railways, Béziers became the richest city in Languedoc. The self-proclaimed “world capital of wine” carved out an appropriately immoderate destiny for itself a past to which the grand Haussmannstyle boulevards bear ample witness.

The Allées Paul-Riquet, the backbone of the town adorned in 1838 with a statue of Paul Riquet (the work of David d’Angers) and lined with plane trees in 1848 are one example. At each end stands a symbol of success: to the north the splendid Bonbon-

TO SEE/TO DO FROM THE ORB TO THE JAUR Do take the time to venture a few dozen kilometres from Béziers to the northern part of Hérault, through Roquebrun or Faugères, to the regional nature park of Haut Languedoc. You will discover a completely different world. You leave the balmy shores, climbing to the foot of the Caroux Massif, the first outpost of the Massif Central, and come upon the superb villages of the Vallée de l’Orb. Here, olive trees give way to orchards. Villages nestle among chestnut trees and the mountains welcome climbers and hikers, while mountain bikers have at their disposal nearly eighty kilometres of greenway between Bédarieux and Mazamet, Hérépian, Poujolsur-Orb, Colombières-sur-Orb, and the wild gorges. www.parc-haut-languedoc.fr

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TO SEE/PÉZENAS, THE SWEET LIFE OF LANGUEDOC

AISLES PIERRE-PAUL RIQUET..

nière theatre built in 1844 in the Italian style. To the south, the plateau des Poètes is a pleasant English garden, designed by Bűhler. Here, the shady avenues, water features and plashing fountains celebrate one of the region’s most famous sons, the sculptor Injalbert who created a colony of tritons and nymphs around his monumental Titan.

Each year, 700,000 visitors walk down the avenues leading towards the Gallo-Roman amphitheatre tucked into the Saint-Jacques district. Or their more modern equivalent, built in 1905 in the Spanish style by Fernand Castelbon de Beauxhostes, a passionate sponsor of the theatre and the lyric arts. The biggest amphitheatre in France (13,100 seats) plays host to bullfights at the famous Feria on August 15th. This old wine city, full of art, theatre and culture, is the perfect showcase for its own rich heritage. ◗

An old Roman settlement, to the east of Béziers, Pézenas was known in ancient times for its wool. When it became part of the royal domain in 1261, the city experienced spectacular development. A well-known fair was held there and in the 15th century it became the headquarters of the Estates General of Languedoc. Illustrious governors, like the Duke of Montmorency and the Prince de Conti made the city the "Versailles of Languedoc".

Molière also came to the city to entertain the Estates General. Some beautiful period mansions remain, like the Hôtel de Flottes de Sébasan, Hôtel Saint-Germain (now a museum) or the house of Jacques Cœur. Today, Pézenas hosts the arts, theatre and crafts (costumers, puppeteers, mosaic artists, blacksmiths, cabinetmakers, antique dealers) and combines the memory of Molière with that of Bobby Lapointe, poet-singer of the sixties and native son of the city. www.pezenas-tourisme.fr

www.beziers-tourisme.fr SUDDEFRANCE - 47 -

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DESTINATION CITIES MONTPELLIER

MONTPELLIER

•

PEYROU GARDENS.

Montpellier, a shining example of Languedoc at its best Although its history is more recent than that of its neighbours, which dates back over two millennia, Montpellier has experienced unusual and dynamic development.

N

ow the undisputed capital of the Languedoc-Roussillon, Montpellier is nevertheless the most recent of the major cities of the Mediterranean.

Beginning as a small group of rural villages linking the Gallo-Roman cities of Nimes and Narbonne, the city of Montpellier was born in 985, a millennium after its cousins. Sited near the Domitian Way and the Way of Saint-Jacques de Compostela (see p.11), with a port in Lattes next to the sea, the city developed around trade, attracting pilgrims and travellers who inaugurated its strong cosmopolitan tradition. This activity led to the emergence of an important intellectual centre, to the extent that

Montpellier became the site of the first medical school in the kingdom of France and beyond, where Nostradamus and Rabelais both studied! The botanical garden adjoining the university, founded in 1593 by Henri IV to provide medicinal plants, is thus the oldest in France.

Montpellier’s prosperity continued to rise for over two centuries, first with the Guilhem family - founders of the city - then as part of the kingdom of Aragon. But during the Hundred Years War the city suffered a series of severe crises and drifted into decline. It took on new life under the impetus of Jacques Cœur, appointed as the king’s commissioner in 1441 to the Estates of Languedoc to raise the economy of the region.

The Wars of Religion caused further suffering and most of the Catholic and Protestant churches were burnt down, depending on which side was governing the city at the time. The Enlightenment was a more beneficial period for Montpellier, largely thanks to Jean-Jacques Regis Cambacérès, a native of the city who, after graduating in law, became a member of the National Convention of the Revolution, and author of the NapoSUDDEFRANCE - 48 -

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TO SEE/A CITY WHERE THE PEDESTRIAN IS KING! The constant demographic expansion of greater Montpellier – 8,000 people move there every year – has inspired urban development making it one of France's greatest pedestrian spaces. It began in the mid-eighties with the pedestrianisation of the Place de la Comédie.

Pedestrians continue to take back the city with the inclusion in the walkers-only district of the sixteen hectares of the Ledru-Rollin - Jeu-dePaume area. Now all the major monuments of the city centre may be visited car-free, by foot, bike, or streetcar. Montpellier integrated its public transportation policy with its development, making Montpellier a champion of environmentally responsible urban tourism.

leonic Code (1804). The city was largely bypassed by the industrial revolution, the region remaining agricultural, even if it made its fortune from wine in the course of the nineteenth century.

A small provincial town after World War II, Montpellier experienced a boom in development prompted by two events: the repatriation of French colonials from Northern Africa at the time of decolonization. The city built on the demographic influx in the 60s, its population doubling in size between 1962 and 2002. At the same time, the computer giant IBM set up its European headquarters in Montpellier, giving an economic boost to the city. Montpellier is also university town, enjoying sunshine (more than 300 days per year) and the sea, and has capitalized on its appeal while retaining its human scale (250,000 inhabitants in the city, 430,000 in the metropolitan area) and it regularly features among winners of the prize for the city with the best quality of life.

The Ecusson, the historic centre, remains the heart of the city and its major pedestrianisation scheme has made strolling through the streets even more enjoyable. The Musée Fabre, one of the finest provincial museums of Fine Arts, is a sumptuous setting for prominent works, like those of Courbet and Delacroix, not to mention the beautiful room dedicated to Pierre Soulages, and has attracted tens of thousands of visitors since its reopening.

Narrow streets, lined with discrete seventeenth and eighteenth century townhouses, weave their way through the centre, leading to magnificent buildings such as Saint Pierre Cathedral, the Peyrou park with views over the countryside, the charming St. Anne or the lively Place de la Comédie with its ornate buildings from the prosperous 19th century. A little further on, the Arceaux makes a charming setting for the boules players in the shade of the aqueduct, while the neighbourhoods of Boutonnet and Beaux-Arts cultivate their slightly trendy village atmosphere. From there, you can wander along to Saint-Lazare cemetery, where the Queen of Italy is buried. Exiled in1946 after the proclamation of the Republic, she chose to end her days in Montpellier. Such is the indolent charm of this city, which is modern yet still close to the earth. And indeed, the commune has some renowned wineries, classified AOC Gres de Montpellier! But in Montpellier, there is an easy familiarity between classicism and modern urbanism, with the famous district of Antigone created in the early 1980s by Catalan architect Ricardo Boffil, who designed his

THE LIVELY PLACE DE LA COMÉDIE. PLACE DE LA CANOURGUE.

project as a tribute to Antiquity using compact concrete for its classical forms and perspectives. Since then, the city has offered unique potential for prestigious architects.

New districts are springing up (Malbosc, Jardins de la Lironde, Ovalie, Porta-Marianne etc.). The latest big projects to be inaugurated include Pierrevives, the new departmental archive centre, signed by Zaha Hadid, the Odysseum centre, the only complex in the Mediterranean to have created a symbiosis between the commercial area with its open air shopping mall, and leisure facilities like the skating rink, the highly popular aquarium (“Mare Nostrum”), multiplex cinema etc.

Today the city is developing along the Lez SUDDEFRANCE - 49 -

River toward the sea. The symbol of this venture is the new City Hall, inaugurated two years ago. The ecologically and technologically advanced building is a dark blue – the colours of Montpellier – which changes with the sunlight. Opposite the building there is a whole new district baptised PortMarianne laid out around Jacques Cœur pond and symbolising the spirit of conquest of this vibrant city. The new district has emerged with the participation of renowned architects like Jean Nouvel, Christian de Portzamparc, Rudy Ricciotti – who inaugurated the ethereal bridge, Pont de la République, in the Spring of 2014 (see p.45) – and awaits the project of young Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto, a 17-storey “tree

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RELAXING ě?ƒ Guinguette THE OLD TOWN CENTRE WITH THE ÉGLISE SAINTE-ANNE AND THE CATHEDRAL. on the banks of the Leze in 2017. ➼ Abuildingâ€? city of grey matter – nearly one in five re-

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sidents is a student or researcher –Montpellier has definitely capitalised on its talents.

So it is hardly surprising that in 2012 the New York Times ranked the capital of Languedoc as “France’s most forward-looking city�. ◗ www.ot-montpellier.fr

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TO SEE/HALF-BIKES In Montpellier, you can find stringed-instrument makers who are internationally known for their expertise in restoring a Stradivarius, highly specialised engineer-agronomists and also‌ mountain bikes and BMXs sticking out of 4 or 5 metre high walls! For the last two years, “BMXâ€? (the artist’s name) has been working on an original exercise, secretly fixing half-bikes to the walls of the city. As if these off-road bikes were riding through walls or in and out of buildings. The work of art was meant to be ephemeral but luckily so far the public authorities have been tolerant of these creations, which brighten up daily life. The street art exercise began by chance for this thirty year old from the region, who has already put up about fifty bikes in Brussels, New York, Paris and Montpellier. But there’s a meaning behind each one. It’s up to you to find it‌ Facebook: BMX Street Art

DISCOVER ě?ƒ MusĂŠe Fabre The Fine Arts museum of Montpellier, created in 1825 and entirely redesigned a few years ago, houses works by Dutch and Flemish painters as well as the painters of the Enlightenment (Poussin, Vouet, David) and the neoclassical and romantic painters (Vernet, GĂŠricault, Delacroix ). Beautiful works of the 19th (Courbet, FrĂŠderic Bazille, Maillol) and 20th centuries, and a remarkable room dedicated to Pierre Soulages.

39, Bd Bonne-Nouvelle, 34000 Montpellier.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 67 14 83 00 www.museefabre.fr

í˘˛ MusĂŠe languedocien In a building that once housed the offices of the French Treasury, this charming little museum depicts the history and evolution of the city through everyday objects, from Roman times to the splendour of the 19th century.

7, rue Jacques-CĹ“ur, 34000 Montpellier.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 67 52 93 03 www.museelanguedocien.com

í˘ł Jardin des Plantes This is the oldest botanical garden in France, created by the Faculty of Medicine in 1593.

There is an old-world charm about this garden and its orangery.

Boulevard Henri-IV 34000 Montpellier.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 67 63 43 22

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des Amoureux

í˘´ Château de Castries Built in the 16th century, this Renaissance-style Languedoc château on the outskirts of Montpellier was bequeathed to the AcadĂŠmie Française in 1985.

This magnificent property was recently sold to the commune and the gardens are now open to the public.

Avenue de la Gare 34160 Castries.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 99 74 01 77 www.castries-tourisme.fr

í˘ľ Valmagne Abbey A superb 12th century Cistercian abbey in the midst of vineyards, 40km from Montpellier. The abbey itself is now a wine estate.

Departmental road 5, direction Villeveyrac.

34530 Montagnac.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 67 78 06 09. www.valmagne.com

EATING OUT ě?ƒ L’idĂŠe saveurs A small gourmet restaurant with very reasonable prices, in the pleasant district of Saint-Roch.

5, rue du Four-des-Flammes 34000 Montpellier.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 67 29 88 62

í˘˛ Cellier et Morel The best restaurant in the city centre. A beautiful vaulted dining room and a small terrace.

27, rue de l’Aiguillerie 34000 Montpellier.

TĂŠl. 00 33(0)4 67 66 46 36

On the edge of CÊcÊles Lake, in a natural, unspoilt setting at the foot of the Pic Saint-Loup – ideal for an after-lunch siesta or a swim in the turquoise water.

Route de CĂŠcĂŠles, 34270 Saint-Mathieu-de-TrĂŠviers.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 67 55 31 16 www.laguinguettedesamoure ux.com

í˘˛ Domaine de Verchant A luxurious spa in a luxury hotel-restaurant just outside Montpellier.

1, Bd Philippe-Lamour, 34170 Castelnau-le-Lez. TĂŠl. 00 3 (0)4 67 07 26 00 www.domainedeverchant .com

ACCOMMODATION ě?ƒ Le nid d’oiseau In the heart of the historic centre of the Ecusson, this old apartment with its high ceilings has two pleasant guest rooms.

Its owner, Donald, has a collection of art from different countries, tastefully combining a droid from Star Wars with the works of Di Rosa, Viallat, Michel Haas, folk art statues from Mali and others. A relaxed, considerate welcome.

13, rue de l’École-dePharmacie 34000 Montpellier. www.nidoiseau.com

í˘˛ HĂ´tel du Parc Delightful little family hotel in an old 18th century townhouse in the district of Boutonnet.

A friendly welcome.

8, rue Achille-BĂŠgĂŠ, 34000 Montpellier. www.hotelduparcmontpellier.com

Lunel

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DESTINATION CITIES MONTPELLIER

•

MONTPELLIER

Roman walk in Ambrussum North of the town of Lunel Villetelle this important GalloRoman archaeological site is located on the former Domitian way, linking the Alps to the Pyrenees via the Languedoc, and stretching from Rome to Cadiz in Spain. The site includes the vestiges of the Roman bridge - the bridge of Ambroix, of which only one arch remains, which once spanned the Vidourle. Vestiges can also be seen of the oppidum, the fortified hill town, with the ruins of a public building and houses dating back to the 4th century BC. The paving stones of the old Roman road are still intact in places. The site now offers an archaeological visit lasting 1h30 through the remains. At the little museum, you can discover what life was like in Gallo-Roman times, and there is a film reconstructing the ancient period.

Chemin d’Ambrussum, 34400 Villetelle.

Tél. 00 33(0)4 67 02 22 33 - www.ambrussum.fr

Discover the fauna and flora at the Domaine de Restinclières In the heart of the garrigue between Prades and Saint-Mathieu de Tréviers, this 215ha area next to the Lez, was the domain of the 18th century Château of Cambacérès, before becoming an agricultural and vineyard estate.

The area has been managed by the department of the Hérault for 25 years, and is a place of discovery for the typical fauna and flora of the region, traversed by a trail winding through garrigue and forests of pine, oak, cypress...

Ideal for hiking or mountain biking. Temporary exhibitions are held at the Maison de l’Environment.

RD 17, 34730 Prades. www.herault.fr

Les Matelles, an authentic village Fifteen kilometres from Montpellier, Les Matelles is a discrete medieval village that has been beautifully restored. In the midst of the garrigue near the Pic

northeast of Sommières, due to the abundance of garrigue, providing excellent fuel for the furnaces. The activity declined after the 18th century, but in Claret, the old glassworks was transformed into the Halle du Verre glass centre in 2009, designed to provide educational and cultural information about the manufacture and history of glass in all its forms. Glassmakers and glassblowers have set up their workshops nearby, and there is a glassmaker’s trail to Ferrières-lesverreries.

5, avenue du Nouveau-Monde, 34270 Claret.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 67 59 06 39

Saint-Loup, you can enjoy wandering through the authentic streets of the village. Built along the Lirou River, the village has preserved its 15th century ramparts, its covered passageways and carved interior staircases.

A museum of the Pic Saint-Loup brings the prehistory of the region alive with archaeological finds from the Palaeolithic to the Iron Age. Les Matelles is also the birthplace of Albertine Sarrazin, poet prodigy who died in the 60s. www.ville-lesmattelles.fr

Nature and wine trails on the Pic Saint-Loup Located 24 kilometres from Montpellier, Pic Saint-Loup (658m) contemplates the Cévennes on one side and the garrigue landscape and sea on the other. With its alter ego, Hortus (515m) these two mountains are the gateway to the Hérault hinterland and its small villages such as Saint-Mathieu-deTréviers, Saint-Jean-de-Cuculles, Valflaunès, Notre-Dame-deLondres. Typical Mediterranean villages that reflect the quality Languedoc wines produced under the AOC "Coteaux du Languedoc”.

The trail to the top of Pic SaintLoup starts from Cazevieille,

following the GR 60, with a magnificent view on arrival (allow 1h30 to 2h). At the top, the ruins of Montferrand have been standing guard ever since 1108.

Wine buffs will enjoy exploring the wine trails by car, mountain bike and even by electric bike. www.tourisme-picsaintloup.fr

Art of the glassmakers of Claret Glassmaking has been part of Languedoc tradition since the Middle Ages in this town to the

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DESTINATION CITIES NÎMES

• NÎMES

THE MAISON CARREE.

Nîmes, a city that cultivates its difference City with a glorious ancient past and important role in the history of Protestantism, Nîmes is proud of its heritage and cultivates its differences against the backdrop of a particular art of living.

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rotestant rigour and the exubereance of the Camargue, Nimes decided not to choose between the two. Both outgoing and secret , it is a city of many colours.

With a history that goes back over 2500 years, Nîmes became a colony under the Roman Empire and was adorned with magnificent monuments, testifying to the importance of the city. Magne tower, 37m high and part of the Roman forum, the Maison Carrée temple built during the early years of the Christian era and inspired by the Temple of Apollo in Rome, dominating the forum of the ancient city, the temple of Diana and the ancient Roman baths, SUDDEFRANCE - 52 -

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TO SEE/CROCODILES IN NÎMES COUNTRY To celebrate his victory against Antony and Cleopatra, the emperor Augustus (born in Nîmes) had a coin made in his province, with his own profile and that of his son-in-law Agrippa on one side and a crocodile tied to a palm tree on the other, symbolizing the subjugation of Egypt. The crocodile became the symbol of the city in 1536 , and the mascot of Nîmes. In the grand staircase in the town hall, four stuffed crocodiles have hung from the ceiling for decades. Even footballers in the local team are dubbed “the crocodiles”.

AMPHITHEATRE.

Augustus Gate and of course the Amphitheatre, stand as witnesses of this golden age. Not to mention the castellum at the end of the aqueduct built to assert the munificence of the city and which remains today a monument like no other: the famous Pont du Gard.

No other French city has such ancient heritage. Grandiose vestige , these elegant buildings are the pride of a city that has continued to live with its history. This is true of the amphitheatre, built in the first century AD and enclosing an eliptical space133 meters long and 21 meters high. It once hosted the ancient games, was later transformed into a fortress in the Middle Ages and after 2000 years is still the beating heart of the city when concerts and operas held there in summer, as well as during the famous ferias at Whitsun and in September. More than 10,000 fans are packed tightly on the stone steps to watch the bullfights, but in the streets of the city there are hundreds of thousands of people who come to enjoy the event, in a half Spanish , half Camargue atmosphere that is unlike any other.

Light-hearted, the Roman city is also a city of the south, where people call out to each other from one café terrace to another, with its famous covered market bustling with over a hundred traders and talented craftsmen, where you can stroll along boulevards lined with hackberry and plane trees, hidden squares as in the Ilot Littré,

MARKET STALL.

former district of dyers. The city that made a fortune through the textile industry, Protestants business bankers and the wine trade, can also be discrete, with its elegant 18th century buildings - the homes of Protestant high society - the district of La Fontaine and where you can only catch a glimpse of the elegant courtyards of the mansions near the La Fontaine gardens, site of a sacred spring in ancient times, which was turned into a beautiful park in the 18th century.

Protective of its past, Nîmes also knows how to conjugate the present and despite its rich heritage, the city is fertile ground for big names in architecture whose buildings are historical landmarks such as those designed by Jean Nouvel ( Nemausus ) Kisho Kurokawa (Costières Stadium), Philippe Starck, Jean-Michel Wilmotte ( covered market) and especially the Carré d' Art , the bold work by British architect Norman Foster built in the center of town in 1993 to house a contemporary arts centre echoing the ancient echoing Maison Carrée just opposite. The perspective from the amphitheatre to the railway station has been brilliantly restored recently, with a play of light , restoring harmony to the different styles of architecture across twenty centuries. A symbiosis of the city and its ongoing dialogue between past and present. ◗ www.ot-nimes.fr SUDDEFRANCE - 53 -

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UNUSUAL/FESTIVAL PASSION Twice a year, Nîmes the Roman becomes the most Spanish of French cities. In late spring and just before autumn it welcomes the two ferias that have made Nîmes de most important ‘plaza de toros’ in France. The running of the bulls was first organised here in 1811 in honour of Napoléon II. And in 1863 the first bullfights took place in the two thousand year old arena. The feria was created in 1950. Since then, it’s been pasión all the way. The Harvest Feria in September attracts mainly aficionados come for the bulls, the Pentecost Feria is also a popular festival attracting crowds for bandas, concerts, flamenco dancing, and bodegas. www.feria-nimes.com

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TO SEE/JEANS, ORIGINALLY FROM NIMES ?

At the end of the Renaissance, as throughout the region at the time, NĂŽmes was an industrious city, transforming the wool produced in the hinterland into woollen cloth of renowned quality. In the 17th century, NĂŽmes cloth manufacturers began importing Egyptian cotton to make a rustic serge fabric, dyed blue.

This “NĂŽmes canvasâ€? renowned for its resilience. It was almost as resilient as the canvas manufactured in the city of Genoa since the 16th century used to make sails and tarpaulins.

In 1853 at the time of the gold rush in the western U.S., a young German immigrant named Levi Strauss sold tents and tarps made from this Italian canvas to gold prospectors.

Until he came up with the idea of using the cloth to make overalls and work pants. The pants were soon named after the cloth they were made from, i.e. jeans, a deformation of Genoa. But in 1860, Levi Strauss decided to replace the heavy fabric with a cotton twill weave that was more supple: the famous Nimes canvas. With the differences in pronunciation, Nimes canvas quickly became “denim�, the name still used for the fabric to make " blue jeans ."

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DISCOVER ě?ƒ Maison du Boutis Boutis is the Provençal art of quilting. In this museum showing boutis from the Gard, you will discover embroidery that dates back to the 18th century.

9, pl. du GĂŠnĂŠral-de-Gaulle 30420 Calvisson.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 01 63 75 www.la-maison-du-boutis.com

í˘˛ La brasserie des garrigues UA local brew with organic certification, this beer is unpasteurised and unfiltered.

The brewery is open to visitors.

ZA de l’Arnède 30250 Sommières.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 71 05 53

í˘ł Château de Villevieille An 11th century domain overlooking the Vidourle valley, the château features a Renaissance wing and a beautiful courtyard. Several of the rooms still have their original furniture.

30250 Villevieille.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 80 01 62 www.chateau-devillevieille.fr

EATING OUT

í˘˛ SKAB New gourmet restaurant in the city with a talented chef.

Zen decor, pretty interior garden and inventive, refined cuisine.

7, rue de la RĂŠpublique 30000 NĂŽmes.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 21 94 30

í˘ł Alexandre For over 20 years now, the chef Michel Kayser and his wife Monique have been hosting the ĂŠlite of NĂŽmes in their restaurant just outside the city. Whether in the dining rooms or in the grounds, your gourmet experience is guaranteed by this chef crowned with 2 stars in the Michelin guide.

2, rue Xavier-Tronc 30128 Garons TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 70 08 99 www.michelkayser.com

í˘´ Un Mazet sous les platanes A friendly restaurant with a pleasant terrace in the centre of the village of Aimargues.

Inventive local cuisine.

3, boulevard Saint-Louis, 30470 Aimargues.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 51 73 03 www.lemazetsouslesplatanes.fr

ě?ƒ Cheval Blanc

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Wine bar

A lively, Camargue atmosphere reigns in this restaurant-bodega in the midst of ranch land and reeds. A local institution where grilled bull is top of the menu.

RD 46, route d’Aigues-Mortes 30220 St-Laurent-d’Aigouze.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 88 93 23

A brasserie-wine bar right opposite the Amphitheatre, the wine bar proposes bistro food and a good wine list. Serves till late.

1, place des Arènes 30000 NÎmes.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 76 19 59 SUDDEFRANCE - 54 -

RELAX ě?ƒ Jardins secrets A superb property offering luxurious guest rooms, “Secret gardensâ€? has a private spa for each guest, with Japanese, Chinese or Ayurvedic massages in a Roman bath setting.

3, rue Gaston-Maruejols 30000 NĂŽmes.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 84 82 64 www.jardinssecrets.net

ACCOMMODATION ě?ƒ The Imperator Legendary hotel in the city, with Belle Epoque decor, where great bullfighters and artists (Picasso, Hemingway) have stayed during the feria, the Imperator has a beautiful walled garden.

15, rue Gaston-Boissier, 30000 NĂŽmes.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 21 90 30 www.hotel-imperator.com

í˘˛ Domaine Sainte-Colombe Canadian ex-army tents of 35m2 in a stunning natural setting in the Petite Camargue with a safari atmosphere.

Camping that’s chic and unusual 30800 Saint-Gilles.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 81 81 81 www.domaine-saintecolombe.com

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DESTINATION CITIES NÎMES

• NÎMES

Sommières, symbol of the sweet life of languedoc Overlooking the Vidourle River, between Nîmes and Montpellier, this medieval town, so typical of the south, was created by the Romans. A wonderful Roman bridge remains, which was restored in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Mansions, medieval side streets, the town hall building – built in 1768 – and the clock tower topped with a belfry are some of the many architectural treasures. Take a stroll along the riverbanks lined with plane trees or enjoy the beautiful view of the Pic Saint-Loup mountain and the Cévennes from the castle ruins (where medieval re-enactments are performed in summer). Symbol of the Languedoc art of living, Sommières has a popular market on Saturday mornings, and in July and August, Wednesday evenings come alive with the night markets. The town also owes its reputation to the famous “terre de Sommières”, a fine clay known for centuries for its power to remove grease stains. www.ot-sommieres.fr

Bagnols, between arts and history Once a prosperous town in the Middle Ages, Bagnols-sur-Cèze is located in the Cèze valley, in the northern part of the department of Gard. The old town has medieval charm, with its buildings in Place Mallet but there is also the wonderful Albert-André Museum with a wealth of contemporary paintings, and the futuristic Visiatome nuclear site in Marcoule.

10km away, the impressive Sautadet waterfalls – beautiful but dangerous – a geological curiosity that is really worth the visit. www.tourisme-bagnolssurceze.com

The crazy story of Perrier in Vergèze “Perrier c’est fou” (Perrier’s crazy).

This slogan has been around the world. And it’s now more than 150 years since Perrier sparkling water was first bottled in the commune of Vergèze, not far from Nîmes. When you discover the plant, which you can visit, you dive into the origins of the little bubbles and their effect on

the metabolism. Above all it’s an amazing industrial voyage from extraction at the spring to manufacturing the bottles, while the museum picks up the incredible advertising story of the little green bottle that sells over a billion copies every year. www.perrier.com

Camargue atmosphere in Cailar The roundabout at the entrance of the village says it all: the sculpture set in the centre tells us we’re in the heart of “bouvine” country, with bull runs through the streets and events in the wooden arenas. A typical village of the Petite Camargue, Cailar is known for its little church of Saint Etienne where Saint-Louis came to pray before the departure of the Crusades from AiguesMortes, its lively village festivals in the summer and the many ranches where the bulls are reared. http://camarguecostierestourisme.fr

The timeless charm of the Chartreuse de Valbonne Founded in 1204, the Chartreuse de Valbonne is set in the heart of an exceptional wooded area unique in France, in the commune of Saint-Paulet-de-Caisson. It was the home of Carthusian monks until the early 20th century when site became a hospital centre. But visitors are allowed into the church, with its amazing roof in glazed tiles more typical of Burgundy than the garrigues, its chapel, cloisters, refectory and monk’s cell with its furniture and everyday objects. Classical music concerts are regularly held in this exceptional location. www.chartreusedevalbonne-monument.com

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DESTINATION CITIES MENDE

• MENDE

CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE-DAME-DE-SAINT-PRIVAT.

Mende, the epicentre of Lozère Episcopal see, Mende has preserved many testimonies to its past. and remains the ideal location from which to visit the Grands Causses.

I

n the upper valley of the Lot in the Grands Causses region, Mende (Lozère) has been touched by the hand of history. It remains an astonishing experience to arrive at the foot of the Basilica Cathedral of Notre-Dame-etSaint-Privat (built in the 14th century at the behest of Guillaume de Grimoard, who in 1362 became the 6th Pope of Avignon under the name of Urbain V), not least for the contrast between this imposing building dominating the centre of the

old town and the local houses huddled all around, with their shale stone roofs.

Such was the former excess and grandeur of a town which was an episcopal see until the Revolution. In the 16th century, Mende was one of the richest dioceses in the Languedoc. But the ecclesiastical principality fell on dark times, hence its motto; “The darkness hath not vanquished me”.

Assailed and taken in 1579 by the troops of the Huguenot captain Merle, the town was for the most part burned and razed to the ground. However, those who visit the little town today are in for a surprise.

The population is growing, universities and training centres have decided to set up there, along with non-polluting industries.

Benefitting from the boom, Mende has embellished its boulevards, narrow streets lined with ancient buildings and its image as a “country town”.

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Enjoy the old centre, at the foot of the mountains with their numerous gushing springs, winding their way down through gardens and the prairies of the sparse walled towns. Channelled and feeding into the town’s underground water system, these springs resurface around the old wash house and in the many fountains which dot its streets.

Mende is an excellent starting point for visiting the Grands Causses region, or Mt Mimat which overlooks it, with its imposing thick pine forests. This sports-mad town is also the scene of many events, such as the Trèfle Lozérien (an international all-terrain motor rally), car rallies, the Grande Fête du Sport (late June every second year) and the Marvejols halfmarathon… ◗ www.ot-mende.fr

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• MENDE DESTINATION CITIES MENDE

The Gorges du Tarn, with the Malène boatmen Exploring the Gorges du Tarn by boat will give you a different view of one of France’s most famous natural sites. From the 14th century until the construction of the road in 1905, wooden boats were the main means of travelling, in addition to the mule track . At the beginning of the 19th century, the first tourists were taken on board to discover the impressive canyon dug by the Tarn between the Causse Méjean and Causse de Sauveterre. The boatmen have kept the tradition alive, offering an 8 km trip along the narrowest passes through the gorges as far as the Cirque des Baumes, where the cliffs rise up to 500m. A journey in a flat bottomed boat, through the clear and sometimes rushing waters of the Tarn in the most beautiful and impressive part of its descent!

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 66 48 51 10 - www.gorgesdutarn.com

Spinning wool in Langogne IEstablished in the mid 19th century, on the site of a former mill dating back to the Late Middle Ages, the ancient wool mill has preserved the large mill wheel driven by the bordering canal. Now a museum, the mill describes the wool manufacturing process from the sheep to the skein, ready for knitting. The one-hour visit, including scenography and a slide show, also gives you a chance to see the machines, dating back to 1850, in action, driven by water power.

Listed as historical heritage, the Wool Mill is a testimony to the development of the textile industry from which Langogne prospered in the past.

Tel. 00 33 (04) 66 69 25 56 www.filature-calquieres.com

Meeting with wolves in Sainte-Lucie There is nothing surprising in a park dedicated to the re-introduction of wolves in the Gévaudan area, as they were the perfect culprits for the series of deathly attacks that fell some one hundred people between 1764 and 1767. The Sainte-Lucie

Wolf Park gathers around one hundred specimens over twenty hectares. The guided tour will introduce you to five different species living in semi-captivity , Polish, Canadian, Arctic, Siberian and Mongolian wolves, and will tell you all about their habits.

Tel. 33 (0)4 66 32 09 22 www.loupsdugevaudan.com

An unusual trip in the Vallon du Villaret This is one of the most visited vales in Cévennes and a perfect destination for families. Children are the star guests and will love the installations, created by artists, using water, sound, light and the human body.

Exhibitions (Ben, Claude Viallat, Pierrick Sorin, Alain Clément, Soulages, Tapies…) and concerts add to this original approach, all within a protected environment…

A large contemporary garden which is not just an amusement park but a fun, wonderful and educational meeting with nature.

Don’t miss it!

Vallon du Villaret.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 66 47 63 76 www.levillaret.fr

Travel back through time in Causse Méjean Sheep paradise, the highest and least populated of the Causses. Set in a massive Caussenarde farm, the Causse Méjean Ecomuseum “La Ferme Caussenarde d'Autrefois” introduces you to the history and daily life of local inhabitants. The typical architecture of thick walls, arches and slate stone roofs portrays its traditional functions from stable to attic, from the kitchen to the bedrooms, including the baker’s oven… Time came to a halt here one hundred years ago, the furniture still houses crockery and household linen, while the farming machines and tools patiently await the farmer. Old photographs and a film, “Lou Mèjio”, add to this visit to the past of the Hyelzas hamlet in Hures-la-Parade, where you will also find a dairy dedicated to sheep’s milk.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 66 45 65 25 - http://ferme.caussenarde.free.fr

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DESTINATION TERROIR CANIGOU

• CANIGOU

The Canigou, a major Catalan site Canigó Peak is the jewel of the Catalan region. Soaring to 2,784 metres, it is the site of several local curiosities. Listed as a grand site since July 2012.

T

he Canigou (Pyrénées-Orientales) is shrouded in legend and attracts hordes of visitors each year. Its winding paths offer a wide range of walks, just as accessible to Sunday walkers as to the hardiest ramblers. A wide cross-section of Roussillon’s historical curiosities were built here, just 5 km from the sea, such as the abbey of Saint-Martin-duCanigou, founded in the 10th century by a Count from Cerdagne and perched at an altitude of 1096 m. Or the Priory of Serrabone, whose gallery with its pink marble

detail represents a veritable masterpiece of Roussillon Romanesque art. But above all it provides a fascinating belvedere. It is said that its summit can be seen from Barcelona, and even from Marseille on a clear day.

One of its finest traditions takes place the weekend before St John’s Day, a few days before the 24th June. Known as the Trobade, it brings together all those who love the Canigou. They come to climb up to the summit, laden with firewood and bundles of sticks, and bearing messages of hope and peace.

On the 23rd June, the eve of St John, one of them carries the original flame, traditionally kept in the Castillet in Perpignan. That night, at midnight, the famous Flame of Canigou is finally relit. Pilgrims spend the night al fresco enjoying the warm atmosphere.

The blaze on the peak can be seen from several villages round about. On the day itself, walkers take the flame and head back down the tracks in a stunning torchlight procession. It is then taken to the villages to feed the fires of St John. ◗ SUDDEFRANCE - 58 -

THE SUMMIT OF CANIGOU.

◗

TO SEE/SAINT-MARTINDU-CANIGOU Consecrated in 1009, this former Benedictine abbey, built by the counts of CerdanyaConflent is one of the oldest examples of Romanesque art in the South. The stunning location of the abbey, situated at 1100m in altitude - 30 minutes walk from the village of Casteil – partly reflects the general insecurity of the time, particularly in regard to the Spanish invasions. The upper and lower church buildings are supported by columns, whose heavy capitals are decorated with engraved patterns of oriental inspiration. A magnificent view of the Conflent.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 68 05 50 03 www.stmartinducanigou.org

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DESTINATION TERROIR SALSES

Rising from the vineyards, the fortress of Salses is half-buried. A feat of military architecture built by the Spanish.

•

SALSES

TO SEE/TO DO

L

GRUISSAN, CIRCLING STREETS

ocated fifteen kilometres north of Perpignan, the village of Salses-leChâteau is attractive not only because of the scenic beauty of its lagoons and famous fishermen’s huts, but also because of the grandeur of its 15th century fortress. It was built at the behest of king Ferdinand II of Aragon and his wife, Isabelle of Castile, to face the onslaught of the French, who were anxious to regain Roussillon. The frontier between the two kingdoms was indeed only a few kilometres away.

It was Francisco Ramiro Lopez, a nobleman of Aragon, who set about designing the edifice in 1497. His mission was to strengthen the position of Salses either by building onto the old castle or by creating a structure

◗

TO SEE/LEUCATE, A KEY SITE IHere, the north wind sweeps the horizon clean. As a strategic stronghold, Leucate served for 500 as an observation post from which the French kept the kingdom of Aragon at bay. The charm of Leucate today is its plurality (it includes Leucate-plage, La Franqui and Port-Leucate) and its attachment to the lagoon and the sea. Leucate has remained part of its marine environment through its oyster farming and because of the tramontane wind, which brings thousands of sports enthusiasts to La Franqui every year to pit themselves against the elements, whether for landsailing, surfing, windsurfing or, more recently, kitesurf. www.leucate.fr

Between the lagoons and the sea, Gruissan is a small village that circles around a little hill heightened by a fortified castle, 35m above the sea. Of this, only the Barbarossa Tower remains, built in the 13th century to guard the area around Narbonne. But in Gruissan you’ll also find beach huts on stilts along the main beach. A practise that goes back several centuries, these structures – now numbering 1,300 – became increasingly common in the 19th century, when they were first used as fishing huts and later as summer beach huts for the citizens of Carcassonne and Narbonne. www.gruissan-mediterrannée.com

THE FORTRESS.

Salses castle,

northern boundary of Catalan lands capable of holding siege for thirty to forty days before being rescued by reinforcements from Castile. The magnificent edifice was built in layers of local red-ochre limestone, Corbières stone and white stone from Ampurdan in Catalonia, and the fortress took 5 years to build. Still unfinished, the fortress was submitted to its first siege on 3 September 1503. 15 000 infantrymen from the French army besieged the 1000 soldiers and 350 cavalrymen at the fort. Having failed to take the fort by canon, the French finally left after two months.

The structure had proved its reliability as the SUDDEFRANCE - 59 -

first form of masonry capable of resisting attack by the new explosive mines and the metal canon balls of the time… Its architecture was indeed revolutionary for the times, with walls that were nearly 10m thick at the base. It was designed like a medieval fortified castle but equipped with all the technical finery of more modern fortresses.

The fort is 115 m long and 90 wide. It was listed as a historical monument in 1886. It now receives around 100,000 visitors very year. ◗ www.monuments-nationaux.fr

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DESTINATION TERROIR PAYS CATHARE

Taking on the citadels of vertigo

PAYS CATHARE

QUÉRIBUS CASTLE.

The castles of the Pays Cathare still seem to defend themselves against a history that has marked the land of Aude.

C

atharism, a dissident Christian movement spread by preachers starting in 1140, rapidly acquired a following in Languedoc, was recognized by its ruling nobles, and established dioceses in Toulouse, Carcassonne, Albi, and Agen. To counter the influence of this religion, which refuted the dogmas and the authority of the Catholic Church, in 1209 Pope Innocent III underSUDDEFRANCE - 60 -

took the Albigensian Crusade. Led by Simon de Montfort, this Crusade was merciless, massacreing the population of Béziers. Carcassonne, Minerve, and Lastours. The county of Toulouse was conquered. The Treaty of Meaux (1229) put an end to the holy war, while the Inquisition continued to harry heretics, who took refuge in the fortified villages of Minervois and Corbières. The Cathar adventure, which had become a war of independence of the South against the

Kingdom of France, ended by the fall of these villages and the joining of Languedoc to the crown of France. This is the epic retold by the castles of the Pays Cathare. Peyrepertuse (the most imposing), Aguilar, Termes, Puilaurens, Quéribus (the last stronghold of the Albigensians, who surrendered in 1255), and Puivert are among the most important. Soaring yet massive, the remains of these fortresses, perched at more than 700 metres of altitude, seem to be poised on their rocky spurs or to surge from the very rock itself, while their crenellated walls give an impression of unyielding strength.

Today, from Durban to Lagrasse, the castle road of the Pays Cathare offers a visit to the heart of the history of the Cathars and many impressive monuments. ◗ Office intercommunal de tourisme des Corbières Sauvages, Cucugnan.

Tél : 00 33 (0)4 68 45 69 40.

The castles of the Pays Cathare in Languedoc-Roussillon 1 - Aguilar • 2 - Arques 3 - Carcassonne • 4 - Lastours 5 - Minerve • 6 - Puilaurens 7 - Puivert • 8 - Peyrepertuse 9 - Quéribus • 10 - Saissac 11 - Termes • 12 - VillerougeTermenes

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Note: This map shows the ruins of the castles of the Pays Cathare Other Cathar sites (Abbaye de Saint-Papoul, de Villelongue, etc.) may also be visited in the region.

Mas-Cabardès

Saissac Cana l du M

Sallessur-l'Hers

idi

PUILAURENS CASTLE AT NIGHT.

5

Cabardès

10

PeyriacMinervois

Castelnaudary

4

Conquessur-Orbiel

Ginestas Au

3

Montréal

Belpech

zè

Alaigne

AUDE

s

Saint-Hilaire

2

Aude

Couiza

C

Belcaire Axat

ièr orb

Mouthoumet

es

1

8

Etang de l'Ayrolle

Sigean DurbanCorbières

Quillan

Pays de Sault

Etang de Bages et de Sigean

11 12

Chalabre

NARBONNE

eu Orbi

Lagrasse

LIMOUX

7

Coursan LézignanCorbières

Capendu

Fanjeaux

Ra

de

CARCASSONNE

Etang de Lapalme

Tuchan

9

6

SUDDEFRANCE - 61 -

e Aud

Alzonne

TO SEE/PUILAURENS, THE MELANCHOLY FORTRESS As you circle round a natural rocky arena you catch first sight of the virtually intact crenelated walls and four towers of the Castle of Puilaurens, perching 690 metres above the village of Lapradelle and the Boulzane valley.

At the border between the departments of Aude and Pyrénées-Orientales, Puilaurens, in the 10th century, belonged to the Abbey of Saint-Michel de Cuixa. In the 13th century, the castle served as a place of refuge for many Cathars. It then came under the French crown to become the most southerly fortified castle in the Kingdom of France, facing the Kingdom of Aragon. The fortress was reinforced in the 15th and 16th centuries, but the site was decommissioned after the signing of the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659, when the border was moved further south, and then simply abandoned during the Revolution. But Puilaurens continues to defy time and the elements. In 2012, Puilaurens became the first and only Cathar citadel to be floodlit.

Château de Puilaurens 11140 Lapradelle-Puilarens.

Open every day in the summer except during stormy weather. Attention: allow 15-20 minutes to reach the foot of the castle. Tel. 00 33 (0)4 68 20 65 26. www.pays-axat.org

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PYRÉNÉES-ORIENTALES CIRCUIT AT THE FOOT OF CANIGOU‌ ě?ƒ Eus, the original The houses of this former stronghold cling to the hillside. The cobbled streets run down the slope from the Church of St. Vincent overlooking a village ranked as one of the most beautiful in France.

The chapel lower down, which also bears the name of the saint, opens onto a magnificent 13th century porch in pink marble from Villefranche-de-Conflent.

In the plains below, you can see the white tunnels of a most unusual nursery.

Michel Bachès and his wife BÊnÊdicte grow 800 varieties of citrus fruit: yuzu, Buddha’s hand, kumquat, bergamot, Combava‌ Visitors are invited to discover their various shapes, colours, smells and flavours, on a guided tour.

Eus Tourist Office.

TÊl. 00 33 (0)4 68 05 41 02 www.prades-tourisme.fr Le Monde des Agrumes Bachès.

TĂŠl. : 00 33 (0)4 68 96 42 91 www.agrumes-baches.com.

í˘˛ Prades, city of gems Located along the TĂŞt river, surrounded by orchards, in the foothills of Mount Canigou, Prades unveils the charms of its streets, doorsteps in pink Conflent marble, decorated facades, oratories, sculpted fountains, old wash houses and timbered frame houses‌ Saint-Pierre Church has one of the biggest baroque altarpieces in France, a masterpiece made by the Catalan sculptor Josep Sunyer. Another gem is the garnet, once extracted from the slopes of the Pyrenees and still worked in Prades.

The Manufacture du Grenat, a centre of excellence and Living Heritage Company, traces all the steps in creating traditional Catalan jewellery with an ecomuseum that recounts their history since antiquity.

Prades Tourist Office.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 05 41 02 www.prades-tourisme.fr Manufacture du Grenat.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 96 21 03 http/manufacturedugrenat.com

í˘ł Waiting for the Yellow Train in Villefranchede-Conflent One of the 14 sites of the work of Vauban classified by UNESCO is hidden beneath the imposing ramparts. A medieval walled city that was fortified in the 17th century, Villefranche-de-Conflent today has a variety of boutiques and craft workshops.

Saint-Paulde-Fenouillet

PERPIGNAN

Sournia

PYRÉNÉES-ORIENTALES

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í˘˛ í˘´

í˘ł

Olette

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TĂŞt

Vinça

PRADES

í˘ś

Mont-louis

It is connected to Fort Liberia which overlooks the town with its “souterrain des 1000 Marchesâ€? (tunnel staircase of 1000 steps). The terrace of Saint-Paul restaurant, with a medieval setting, is a pleasant place to stop and enjoy elaborate cuisine at very good value for money. Villefranche-de-Conflent is also the starting point for the Little Yellow Train which goes to La-tour-de-Carol, with 22 stations along the way including the highest railway station in France, Bolquère, at an altitude of 1593 metres.

An adventure in open carriages offering unprecedented views of the Pyrenees and the feats of civil engineering on the way.

Villefranche Tourist Office.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 96 22 96 www.villefranchedeconflent.com Auberge Saint-Paul.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 96 30 95

í˘ľ On the lookout for wildlife in Nyer nature reserve

í˘´ In the intimate streets of Evol

The hotel and casino testify to the popularity and renown of the spa town Vernet-les-Bains during the Belle Epoque.

The baths at 33°C and wellness centre guarantee an idyllic moment before starting off on a hike. Several hiking trails take you on a discovery of gorges, waterfalls and the dolmens in Cady valley.

Three routes climb up to the peak of Canigou, sacred mountain of the Catalans, labelled a Grand Site de France, one of the trails ending with a famous rock escarpment forming a natural staircase called La CheminĂŠe (fireplace). A real 2day mountain hike with a night in a mountain refuge.

Vernet-les-bains Tourist Office.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 05 55 35 www.vernet-les-bains.fr Thermes. TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 05 52 84 www.thermes-vernet.com

Overlooked by the former fortress of the Viscounts of So, its ruins emerging from a bed of greenery, and the bell tower of its ancient church, Evol is listed as one of the most beautiful Villages of France.

Intimate stairway passages with their unusual names are lined with houses in shale stone with slate roofs. The Church of St AndrĂŠ, an11th century Romanesque building, rebuilt in the 16th century, has two remarkable altarpieces.

Adjoining the church are the vestiges of a “conjurador�, an oratory to ward off storms...

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Deep gorges mark the entrance to Nyer Nature Reserve, ranging from 730 m to 2663 m, on the massif of Carença.

Its spectacular gorges, deep forests and varied habitats are much appreciated by chamois, wildcats, marmots and the surprising Pyrenean muskrat. The reserve is also known for its large colonies of bats, including half the species present in Europe. The Maison de la RĂŠserve opens the doors to their mysterious world via an exhibition, with direct observation by infrared camera. www.cg66.fr

í˘ś Balneology and hiking in Vernet-les-Bains

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AUDE CIRCUIT BETWEEN LAND AND SEA ě?ƒ Sigean, the exoticM

í˘˛ Portel des PCorbières, land of wines This “Gateway to the Corbièresâ€? is crossed by the Berre River, spanned

by Tamaroque Bridge, built in 1864.

It is also the gateway to the VallÊ du Paradis, one of the wine appellations, whose vineyards follow the course of this tumultuous river. So it’s hardly surprising to find a centre evoking Mediterranean wine civilization here, 80 metres underground. An adventure with several stops, aboard a little train, with a film show, son et lumière and re-enactments. To the west of the village, among the vines and olive trees, stand the majestic ruins of Notre-Dame des Oubiels built between 1285 and1310.

And close by, the Berre offers some lovely places to swim.

Terra Vinae. TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 48 64 90 www.terra-vinea.com

í˘ł An exceptional meal in Fontjoncouse On the way to Lagrasse, Fontjoncouse deserves a gourmet stopover.

In this little Corbières village in the heart of the garrigue, the chef Gilles Goujon has reached the firmament, earning his third star in the Michelin guide in 2010. Cuisine that exalts the taste buds in the warm setting of the Auberge du Vieux Puits.

Auberge du vieux puits.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 44 07 37 www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr

NARBONNE

PeyriacMinervois Conquessur-Orbiel

Ginestas A

A former frontier town controlling access to the Gulf of Narbonne and the Corbières plain, Sigean recounts part of its history as you walk through its narrow streets leading to the Archbishops’ Castle and ramparts and the old chapel of the Penitents‌ The MusÊe des Corbières M museum tells the story from prehistoric times to the Middle Ages, with a large collection of objects from excavations on the site of Pech Maho (5th to 3rd century BC hill settlement) which will delight lovers of archaeology. Children will find it L hard to resist the call of the wild and the 3,800 animals in Sigean African reserve.

Sigean Tourist Office.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 48 14 81 www.tourisme-sigean.fr RĂŠserva africaine de Sigean.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4.68.48.20.20 www.reserveafricainesigean.fr

CARCASSONNE

CARCASSONNE

e ud

Coursan

LÊzignanCorbières

í˘ľ

Capendu ie Orb

Lagrasse

Saint-Hilaire

AUDE Mouthoumet

s

Etang de Bages Etang de et de Sigean l'Ayrolle

í˘ł í˘˛ DurbanCorbières

í˘ą

Sigean

Etang de Lapalme

Tuchan

í˘´ Lagrasse, queen of Basses-Corbières Ranked as one of the most beautiful villages of France, the houses of Lagrasse are built along the Orbiel River in a landscape of vineyards and hills.

Ancient capital of Corbières, it has preserved part of its ramparts and market hall (1315) a reminder of just how important markets were in medieval times. Along the cobbled streets, you’ll find ancient timbered houses with little shops on the ground floor and the living area on the first floor, with their wrought iron balconies. The old bridge joins the town to the graceful and impressive Benedictine Abbey from which it developed. Founded in the 8th century, the Abbey of Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu, listed as a historical monument, is the largest abbey in Aude.

Combining architecture from pre-Roman times through to the 18th century, the buildings are clustered around two cloisters and several courtyards.

An interpretive centre presents the architecture and history of the monument.

Abbaye de Lagrasse.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 43 15 99 www.abbayedelagrasse.com Lagrasse Tourist Office.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 43 11 56.

í˘ľ Fontfroide Abbey Nestling in the woods of Fontfroide, in a landscape of garrigues and Mediterranean scrubland, Fontfroide Abbey, in addition to the beauty of its 12th century buildings, has a magical setting, with terraced gardens, a rose garden, rivers with low

SUDDEFRANCE - 65 -

NARBONNE

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stone walls and bridges‌ A sacred place of Christianity, the Cistercian monastery blends the ochre and pink shades of its stone, cut from Corbières sandstone.

Each stage of the visit is an opportunity to appreciate the beauty of this unique heritage.

Abbaye de Fontfroide.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 45 11 08 www.fontfroide.com

í˘ś Peyriac-de-Mer, in the middle of the marshes Peyriac-de-Mer is one of those fishing villages that have managed to preserve their charm. On the natural protected site of Doul and la Saline, a nature trail has been set up, “MĂŠmoire d’Êtangsâ€?

(Memory of lagoons), which recounts the history and workings of the old salt mines which were in operation from the 15th century until 1979. The path follows a walkway on stilts in the middle of the marshes, where egrets, herons and flamingos have their nesting places. “Le chemin des crĂŞtesâ€? (ridge path) extends the adventure between the lagoons of Doul and Bages. From the top of a hill amid the colours and fragrances of the garrigue, you can enjoy a 360° panoramic view, between land and sea.

A road leads you to a beach where you can swim in the Doul lagoon whose high salinity can be compared with that of the Dead Sea. Peyriac-de-Mer Tourist Office.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 68 42 68 42 www.peyriacdemer.net

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN MONT AIGOUAL

• MONT AIGOUAL

TO SEE/TO DO L’ABIME DE BRAMABIAU In the commune of Camprieu, the abyss of Bramabiau is a beautiful waterfall where the Bonheur River, which rises at the foot of Mont Aigoual, emerges after flowing through the rock for over 700m. The river water is released from the mountain, gushing from a high, narrow crack and falling into a rocky crater called the “Alcove”. You can enter the cavity formed by underground erosion and the underground galleries above the river. Dinosaur traces have been found at this site.

Tél. 00 33 (0)4 67 82 60 78

THE METEROLOGICAL OBSERVATORY ON MOUNT AIGOUAL.

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TO SEE/TRANSHUMANCE UP THE MOUNTAIN Mont Lozère and Mont Aigoual are among the last places where summer transhumance takes place in the traditional way, along the “drailles”, the drover’s roads used by the shepherds and their flocks to reach the summer pastures. Low stone walls mark the way; some of the paths follow old Roman roads, others are now hiking trails (the GR 60 on the drover’s road from Languedoc to Mont Lozère, or the GR 6 on a drover’s road from Pont-d'Hérault to Espérou and Meyrueis).

They form a link between the valleys and plains that the herds of sheep, goats and cows would leave in the spring, (usually at the end of May) and the high plateaux they were taken to.

A few rare flocks still make this long journey every year (which can take up to a week) and transhumance days are still an occasion for summer pasture fetes, with processions of flocks festooned with pompoms, demonstrations of herding techniques, shearing and of course the work of the sheep dogs…

Festival of transhumance at the col de l’Espérou (Gard) on 14 June 2014.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 66 54 29 65

Aigoual, summit of the Cévennes Located only 70km from the sea, the massif of Mont Aigoual, in the heart of the Cévennes, is both a geographical barrier and a strong symbol of the Cévennes region.

C

entral to the history of the Camisards and the Resistance, Mont Aigoual, the “roof of the Cévennes” stretches across the northern Hérault, Gard and Lozère, rising to a height of 1567 m. At the top, the panoramic view of the Cévennes mountain chain is spectacular: in clear weather, the view takes in the Mediterranean sea, the massive ridge of Mont Lozère to the north, the Cantal mountains, the Pyrenees to the west and Mont Ventoux to the east and sometimes even part of the Alps. A cloud compass, Aigoual has a harsh climate with SUDDEFRANCE - 66 -

winds of up to 250km/h and the summit is regularly shrouded in rain, fog and snow.

Moreover winter and spring tend to be the best times to enjoy the view from this forest area, as in July and August, the view is often obstructed by mist – unless you get to the summit by sunrise.

Mont Aigoual meteorological observatory was set up on this summit in 1894, based on the model of a fortress to withstand the onslaught of the climate. Information is recorded about the speed and direction of the winds bringing the “Cévennes rains”, the famous torrential rainfalls that beat down on Gard and Hérault. It is the last inhabited observatory in France. All year round, meteorologists relay one another to take the temperature of the weather. The station has been open to the public since 1985: 500 m2 of exhibition space provides interesting information about the particular climatology of Aigoual and the work of Météo France. ◗ Tél. 00 33 (0)4 67 82 60 01. www.aigoual.asso.fr

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DESTINATION MEDITERRANEAN SAINT-GILLES / BEAUCAIRE

• SAINT-GILLES

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THE ABBEY-CHURCH.

Prestigious past of

Saint-Gilles A transit town in the Middle Ages, Saint-Gilles is a quiet city with a wealth of unique archaeological heritage and typical Camargue traditions.

A

town of pilgrimage, SaintGilles grew up in the Middle Ages around the figure who gave his name to the town and to the abbeychurch, where he is supposed to be buried. At that time Saint-Gilles was a major port in the South of France and a strategic point for crusaders and pilgrims travelling to Rome and the Holy Land, as well as for trade with the Middle East.

While the saint has lost some of his notoriety, the town remains a staging point on St James’ Way to Santiago de Compostela, and its abbey-church still bears the signs of its prestigious past. Its superb façade has three portals separated by fully carved columns, whose layout was inspired by the triumphal arches of Ancient Rome.

This jewel of Romanesque art of the lower Rhône depicts passages from the Gospel

and the Bible in the various styles of the sculptors who worked on its decoration in the 12th century. Partially destroyed during the wars of religion and rebuilt in the 17th century, the abbey has conserved its tombs, statures and effigies.

The city has other vestiges of its rich medieval past, including several Romanesque houses. The most famous of these in Languedoc is the ‘Maison Romane’. Hidden behind its superb façade in cut stone, its large doors and lintels, there are a number of museum rooms devoted to archaeology and regional ethnology. Saint-Gilles is also known for its Camargue spirit, displayed at the many bullfighting events that take place during the summer season, Camargue races in the arena, bull-running in the streets, where you really sense the heartbeat of the city. This is true at the peach and apricot feria at the end of June and the feast of Saint-Gilles in early September. A short tour of the port, where the trading ships have been replaced by pleasure craft, may incite you to discover the Camargue in an original way, via the canal from Rhône to Sète. You can even take the boat to Beaucaire, another important centre of river tourism. ◗ SUDDEFRANCE - 67 -

TO SEE/BEAUCAIRE, CITY OF ART AND HISTORY Beaucaire partly owes its rich past to the Rhône River that runs through it.

Located on the river and on the Via Domitia, the city was granted the privilege of holding an annual fair by king Louis XI. The week-long fair, la Foire de la Madeleine, gradually spread its fame around the Mediterranean and even throughout Europe, boosting the development of the town, which grew from 8,000 to … 100,000 inhabitants! In the area of Place de la République, lined with arcaded houses, two lovely townhouses bear witness to this period. As do the dimensions of the Church of Notre-Dame des Pommiers, a huge edifice with a curved façade. Beautiful vestiges remain of Beaucaire castle, like the polygonal tower, the round tower and ramparts overlooking the city.

Labelled a “City of art and history”, Beaucaire is attractive because of its heritage, but also because its streets and alleys have drawn craftsmen, ceramists, embroiderers, leatherworkers, basket weavers and stained glass makers, adding extra charm. Next to Lamour canal, Beaucaire has as small marina linked to the Rhône. Only a few kilometres away, the trip through the garrigue, to Saint-Roman Abbey is a pleasure not to be missed. Carved into the limestone rock in the 5th century by monks who occupied the site for nearly 1000 years, this ancient cave monastery is unique in Europe. www.ot-beaucaire.fr www.abbaye-saint-roman.com

www.tourisme.saint-gilles.fr Musée de la Maison Romane.

Tél. 33 (0)4 66 87 40 42.

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HÉRAULT CIRCUIT OFF TO SALAGOU ě?ƒ Lodève, wide awake!

í˘˛ Everyone in the water at Lake Salagou O

Created after the construction of a dam, Lake Salagou attracts hikers and mountain bikers, and a 28-kilometre trail runs along its shores. It also attracts water sports enthusiasts, fishermen and swimmers, refreshed by the exceptional colour of its water – an iridescent blue with reflections of the red “ruffeâ€? rocks, which are 250 million years old. The site of Salagou and Mourèze was listed as a “Grand Siteâ€? in 2003 for the beauty of its landscapes and as a special Natura 2000 protection area for the remarkable fauna that live there. A delight for nature lovers.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (04) 67 96 23 86 www.clermontais-tourisme.fr

í˘ł The strange Cirque de Mourèze Near Salagou valley, the Cirque de Mourèze looks like a tribe of trolls petrified in stone or a sculpture made by a giant‌ The site is formed by 160 million-year-old limestone rocks, which have been chemically eroded by water over time to make these strange shapes, creating a magical world.

A marked trail winds through this amphitheatre between dolomitic blocks with evocative names: the Sphynx, the Oracle, the Bear, Cerberus. At the summit, a panorama reveals the wild beauty of Lake Salagou.

The fauna and flora have adapted to this unusual environment; it is a habitat for the harmless Montpellier snake and the ocellated

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Let Lodève tell you its history, from the Episcopal city to the old Medieval commercial district in the lower part of the city, from the raising of its ramparts to its mansions and manor houses, from the peak of its textile industry to its flourishing cultural development, with events like the Poetry Festival “Voix de la MĂŠditerranĂŠeâ€? in July.

Saint-Fulcran Cathedral, the Episcopal S Palace, the Halle DardÊ sculpture museum, s the Hôtel du Cardinal de Fleury, Hôtel de Salze, Atelier de la Savonnerie (carpet-weaving workshop) and the museum are all stages on this journey through time, together with the many bridges that have accompanied the development of Lodève, now listed as a City of Art and History.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 67 88 86 44 www.tourisme-lodevois-larzac.fr

LODĂˆVE

SĂŠ

â——â——â——

Les Matelles Castries

Aniane

Gignac

Castelnau-le-Lez

Clermontl'HĂŠrault

MONTPELLIER Pignan

HERAULT

Lattes

Mauguio Etang de Mauguio

Etang de MĂŠjean

Etang de Vic

Roujan Montagnac

Frontignan

PÊzenas Mèze S F

B Eurasian Eagle-Owls, lizard, while and Bonelli’s Eagles can be seen gliding through the air above.

í˘´ Villeneuvette, the Manufacture Royale The story began in 1673, when a cloth maker, Pierre Baille de Clermont-deLodève, bought a farm and fulling mill on the banks of the Dourbie to transform them into a factory. The factory came into the hands of a former Director General of salt tax collection in Languedoc and a year later, in 1677 it became the Manufacture Royale, by Royal decree. It brought prosperity to the region and remained in activity until 1954. After passing through the entrance archway, inscribed with the words “Honneur au travailâ€? (honour in work) a visit to the workers’ houses, the squares, streets and industrial buildings, will echo these words‌ TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 67 96 06 00

í˘ľ Grotte de Clamouse, timeless cave Known as the cathedral of time, this cave was discovered in 1945 by members of the caving club of Montpellier. Since then, Clamouse, classified as a “Scientific and picturesque siteâ€? has unveiled the mystery of its 4,000 metres of galleries. The variety of forms of concretions, and its fine crystallisations of a gleaming white, present a unique and unforgettable spectacle. Nearby, in the heart of the

SUDDEFRANCE - 69 -

woods, the forest house Maison Forestière des Plôs, offers accommodation that can be accessed on a road track from SaintJean-de-Fos or on foot via a path from Saint-Guilhem-le-DÊsert. A stay where birdsong is the only thing to disturb the peace, where the prices are affordable and the rooms are very natural in style.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 67 57 71 05 www.clamouse.com.

La maison forestière des Plôs.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)6 85 39 73 70 www.maison-des-legendes.fr

í˘ś Saint-Guilhemle-DĂŠsert, Grand Site of France Listed as a Unesco heritage site, Saint-Guilhem-le-DĂŠsert is one of the most beautiful medieval villages in France on St. James’ Way to Santiago de Compostela. It has preserved its beautiful Romanesque facades on the left bank of the Verdus. The Abbey of Gellone, a masterpiece of Languedoc Romanesque art, built in the11th century, emerges like a mirage against a backdrop of mountains whose white limestone contrasts with the dark green of the garrigue. The museum containing the white marble sarcophagus of St Guilhem (5th century) shows a film about how the stones of the cloister were sold to an American architect and are now exhibited at the Cloisters Museum in New York!

TĂŠl. 00 33 (04) 67 57 70 17 www.saint-guilhem-le-desert.com

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LOZĂˆRE CIRCUIT IN THE STEPS OF STEVENSON ě?ƒ Le Bleymard, in summer and winter ‌

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Causse MĂŠjean

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At 1700 m above sea level, the Pic de Finiels is the highest point of Mont Lozère and of the dĂŠpartement. This east-facing slope is covered in heathland of heather and broom interspersed with boulder fields, coniferous forests and vast areas of grassland where sheep come to eat their fill in the summer, using the ancient livestock trails. Climbing up to the Pic de Finiels guarantees one reward: on its peak, which has no fewer than three orientation tables, the 360° panorama opens onto “the inextricable blue mountainsâ€?, dear to Stevenson, the Alps and all the Languedoc Plain as far as the Mediterranean.

One of the most beautiful stages of the trail.

í˘´ Florac, returning to the spring

J

Florac is a stage not to be missed in the journey in the CĂŠvennes which the Scottish writer describes as follows: “a sub-prefecture, which has an old castle and avenues of plane trees, many old neighbourhoods and a lively spring which gushes from the rockâ€?. The castle is now the headquarters of the CĂŠvennes National Park and the source of the PĂŞcher constantly gushes in several streams from the Rocher de Rochefort.

Another stop, for food-lovers this time, is not to be missed: the Restaurant Adonis, where chef Martial Paulet seeks a whole palette of sensations in the service of products from the CÊvennes – PÊlardon goat’s cheese, chestnuts, sweet onions, Causse MÊjean chicken, Lozère lamb...

Maison du Parc national des CĂŠvennes.

TÊl. 00 33 (0)4 66 49 53 00 www.cevennes-parcnational.fr L’Adonis.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 45 00 63 www.hotel-gorgesdutarn.com

í˘ľ Cassagnas and the Grottes des Camisards In the distance, the line of ridges of the Montagne du Bougès stand out in profile, and on the way one can see the slender SUDDEFRANCE - 71 -

Tarnon

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the 17th century humpbacked bridge.

Tourist office.

TĂŠl. 33 (0)4 66 45 81 94 www.cevennes-montlozere.com

In the heart of the Parc des CĂŠvennes, at the foot of the south slope of Mont Lozère, Le Pont-de-Montvert is the first village watered by the Tarn which rises a few kilometres upstream. Its narrow, sloping lanes, its vaulted passages and its squat, granite houses give it an inexpressible charm, making one want to make time stand still. The trail called the “Sentier du Pontâ€? which meanders across the village tells the story of the most notable events in this bastion of Protestantism, inviting one to find for oneself the old neighbourhoods with their workshops, merchants’ houses and

Le Pontde-Montvert Tarn

í˘´ FLORAC

í˘˛ On the roof of the CĂŠvennes at the Pic de Finiels

í˘ł Relaxing at Le Pont-de-Montvert

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SainteEnimie

Le Massegros

Villefort

1699 m Mont Lozère

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The trail which Robert-Louis Stevenson took with his donkey starts at Le Puy-en-S Velay and finishes at Saint-Jean-du-Gard (The present-day GR 70). The “Sur les Chemins de Stevenson� Association brings together those involved in tourism in order to help hiking over some or all of the circuit, with or without a donkey...

Le Bleymard is one of the first stages in Lozère. At the heart of the village, the chapel of Saint-Jean-du-Bleymard (12th century), classed as an ancient monument, faces the priory, sturdily built on the hillside with its two round towers.

Situated at 1,400 m above sea level, the ski resort is transformed into a holiday resort in the summer for plenty of walks in the country...

Sur le Chemin de R.L. Stevenson.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 45 86 31 www.chemin-stevenson.org

s

Tarn

â——â——â——

Saint-Germainde-Calberte

Saint-AndrĂŠde-Valborgne

silhouette of Saint-Julien d'Arpaon Castle, owned by the lords of Anduze, then from 1266 by the Bishop of Mende.

In the area around Fontmort national forest the village of Cassagnas appears, with its dark, roughcast houses and their stone roofs. Caves in the district served as shelters, hiding-places and supply bases for the Camisards, the French Calvinists. The house of the camisard Pierre SĂŠguier, situated at the lower end of this little square, has a commemorative plaque.

Cassagnas Town Hall.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 45 06 56.

í˘ś Saint-Germainde-Calberte, deep in a smiling valley The houses and gardens in Saint-Germainde-Calberte stretch in terraces along the south slope of the Valley of the Gardon, amongst the chestnuts and holm oaks. Set on a peak, the Château SaintPierre (12th century) has retained its medieval layout, with its chapel and square keep and the low defensive wall which separates it from the village.

Its church, built in the 14th century, surprises one with the beauty of its Gothic portal. The Calquières site, with its water supply network and dry stone walls retaining the earth which was carried up on men’s backs, is an example of the terracing which is characteristic of the CÊvennes landscape..

Tourist Office.

TĂŠl. 00 33 (0)4 66 45 93 66 www.coeur-des-cevennes.com

RELAXING AT THE CARCASSONNE CITADEL.

SUD DE FRANCE WINES

76/79 GASTRONOMY

80/81 GOOD FOOD ADDRESSES

AN ART OF LIVING

74/75

The land of contrasts that is LanguedocRoussillon is composed of a mosaic of different landscapes. From mountain-top to the sea, from the high cantons to the Mediterranean, from the Petite Camargue to the Vermillion coastline, they give rise to a smorgasbord of specialities which shape a veritable sun-soaked, refined cuisine. While you are probably already familiar with the Picholine variety of olive, cassoulet from Castelnaudary and Carcassonne, anchovies from Collioure, oysters from the Leucate and Thau lakes, brandade from Nîmes, squid and sweet onions from Cévennes or even Pézenas pasties, the gamut of flavours just keeps on coming. So many products fly the flag for this gastronomic region; in addition Languedoc-Roussillon is favoured with the largest viticultural region on the planet and produces some of the world’s best wines – a joyous area!

For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to : www.destinationsuddefrance.com/artdevivre SUDDEFRANCE - 73 -

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ART OF LIVING WINES OF THE SOUTH OF FRANCE

The biggest vineyard in the world

THE VINEYARDS OF COTE VERMEILLE.

Thanks to its nurturing climate and the richness and multiplicity of its terroirs, LanguedocRoussillon's vines are achieving higher and higher levels of quality. It is also the largest and the oldest wine-growing region in the world, spreading over more than 200,000 hectares.

I

f, in vino veritas, truth is in wine, then Languedoc-Roussillon is truly blessed! It was on this soil that vineyards took root; after vines were imported by the Greeks in 600 B.C.E. to southern Gaul, wine production spread along the Via Domitia, from Narbonne to Italy.

The vineyards flourished for twenty centuries, with wine becoming the region's main economic driver. Languedoc and a part of Roussillon were nothing but rows of vines as far as the eye could see. People spoke of a “sea of grapes” between Carcassonne and the Rhône!

Variety is the spice of life…

For thirty years now, Languedoc-Roussillon has been redefining the vintner’s trade to

make the most of the quality of its terroirs.

A quality combined with diversity in a region cultivating naturally sweet wines (the muscats of Lunel, Mireval, Frontignan, Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, Rivesaltes, Banyuls, and Banyuls Grand Cru), sparkling wines (including Blanquette and Crémant de Limoux) and many reds, whites, and rosés as well.

No other region boasts such variety, with over thirty different grape stocks being grown. In just a few decades, vintners and oenologists have reinvented themselves to concentrate on quality, develop concepts, experiment with tradition, and advance the development of wines from organically-grown grapes, which already represent nearly 9,8% of vineyard production.

SUDDEFRANCE - 74 -

A palette of flavours Languedoc, the terroir of sun-drenched wines, is proud to respect its vines' diversity, producing distinctively generous and subtle crus. From the shale that fortifies the wines of Saint-Chinian, Côtes du Roussillon, and Coteaux de Languedoc to the pebbly soil of Corbières that produces the spicy red wines of Lézignan, Boutenac, and Lagrasse, the range of flavours is wide!

Languedoc-Roussillon’s 200,000 hectares, 70,000 of them Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, is the world’s largest single winegrowing property, rich with many IGP regional quality labels and AOC appellations (more than thirty) as diverse as Cabardès, Collioure, Crémant de Limoux, Fitou, Muscat

Wine tourism, an art of living

Gather ye rosés A historical paradox: while rosé may be the latest craze, among the three colours of wine, it is in fact the oldest! From Antiquity through the 17th century, wines were not barrel-aged, and thus were light in colour. The term ‘claret’ (with its relation to the French clair, or light) was invented to designate wine in general. Replaced by red in the 19th century, rosé wine is now reasserting itself over prejudice and bad examples.

Produced from the same grapes as red wine (in this region, mainly cinsault, syrah, and Grenache), rosé is not, of course, a mixture of white and red, but the result of a different maceration technique. The rosé wines of Languedoc-Roussillon, with their aromatic palette ranging from red fruit (raspberry, strawberry) to spice, with a bouquet as floral as it is fruity or mineral, are fresh and appealing, wines to drink informally. IGP (quality-labelled) wines from Pays d’Oc to Corbières by way of Faugères or Pic Saint-Loup already represent 18% of the region's wine production.

Elegant and feminine, they produce the impression of drinking sunbeams.

Heirs of a remarkable terroir, the winemakers of Languedoc-Roussillon have understood the value of encouraging the discovery of their profession and products. Considering that one tourist in three spontaneously lists wine and good food among the things motivating their choice of stay, it makes sense to share this very special art of living.

From April onwards, the region becomes a Garden of Eden for wine tourism enthusiasts, with a multitude of events related to food and wine. These may take the form of wine tasting in a unique setting or a vineyard and gourmet trail, stopping off at places on a predefined circuit. In April, Montpeyroux organises the “Toutes caves ouvertes” (open cellars) event, Peyriac-de-Mer and Bages propose their “Balade des Cinq Sens” (five senses walk). In May, Lirac AOC hosts its traditional “Balade gourmande des Jaugeurs” (wine guagers’ taste walk) while Costières de Nîmes AOC prepares its “Vignes Toquées” (crazy vineyards) event and the wines of La Clape near Narbonne hold their “Sentiers Gourmands” taste trails. In PyrénéesOrientales, thanks to the initiative of local winegrowers, in Calce “les Caves se rebiffent” (the cellars rebel) in the middle of May. A succession of events continues throughout the summer. All of them unique moments of conviviality.

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GOOD TO KNOW/ WINE-RELATED EVENTS Vignes Toqués vineyard walk (Gard) Sunday 18 May blog.costieres-nimes.org Vignes Buissonnières wine trail on Pic St Loup (Hérault) Saturday 7, Sunday 8 June www.pic-saint-loup.com Circulade en Terrasses wine trail in Larzac (Hérault) Saturday 5 July www.terrasses-du-larzac.com

de Frontignan, and Languedoc. Since 2007 the single appellation AOC Languedoc includes all appellations between Gard and the

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GOOD TO KNOW/ CLUB OENOTOURISME For wine tourism enthusiasts, Languedoc-Roussillon is a region to discover and rediscover, as there are just too many stopping points for one stay. The tourism and wine sectors of Sud de France Développement created the Club Oenotourisme Sud de France (Wine Tourism Club), in 2013, representing the remarkable sites, cellars, wineries, the accommodation providers involved in viticulture, as well as interested agencies, in an initiative to provide visitors with an enhanced quality offering. www.destinationsuddefrance.com/cluboenotourisme

Spanish frontier, providing more transparency for consumers.

Additionally, the shared logo “Sud de France” now symbolises the identity and modernity of southern France’s wines as they continue the beloved tradition of the Mediterranean art of living. The famous American wine critic Robert Parker was not in error when he wrote that “Languedoc-Roussillon is the wine world's new Eldorado”! ◗

* The Languedoc AOC includes the following appellations: Cabrières, Grès de Montpellier, La Clape, La Méjanelle, Montpeyroux, Quatourze, Pézenas, Pic Saint-Loup, Saint-Christol, Saint-Drézéry, Saint-Georges-d’Orques, Saint-Saturnin, Terrasses de Béziers, Terrasses du Larzac, Terres de Sommières, Vérargues.

SUDDEFRANCE - 75 -

Saturnales wine festival in Saint-Saturnin (Hérault) Thursday 10 July www.herault-tourisme.com Grand Saint Jean wine festival in Faugères (Hérault) Sunday 13 July www.faugeres.com Muscat festival of Frontignan (Hérault) From Tuesday 15 to Sunday 20 July www.frontignan-tourisme.com Wine festival of Montlaur (Aude) Friday 15 August www.carcassonne-agglo.fr 39th Uzès wine fair (Gard) Friday 8 to Sunday 10 August www.uzes.fr Vendanges de l’histoire festival in Chusclan (Gard) Saturday 11 and Sunday 12 October www.fetevigneronnechusclan.com

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ART OF LIVING LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON AT YOUR TABLE!

A territory with a long agricultural and winegrowing tradition, Languedoc-Roussillon is also one of France’s top regions for fruit and vegetable production. Benefitting from an exceptional climate with plenty of sunshine, nature is generous here. Cherries, apricots, strawberries, peaches, apples, melons, are some of the traditional produce, as are asparagus, tomatoes, sweet onions, turnips, celery, artichokes, olives and green beans. Products that have created a philosophy of good living, expressed in the lively, colourful market halls, the choice of fresh produce in the shops and the tasty recipes.

The beating heart of regional gastronomy

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n a region like Languedoc-Roussillon, where agriculture and winegrowing are mainstays of economic activity, the role of market halls and outdoor markets is more than merely symbolic. Today, while outdoor markets continue to thrive, market halls (of which there are 14 in the region) more than ever concentrate regional products and reflect local gastronomic culture. Places to exchange, a far cry from the monotony of supermarkets, market halls express the terroir and the beating heart of a city.

In Carcassonne, in a market hall that was partially built in the 18th century, twenty stallholders offer their products during the week and are joined by organic producers who set up their stalls outside the building on Saturdays.

In Narbonne, the Halles Baltard, dating from 1901, is the emblematic site dis-

playing the expertise of local producers.

Butchers, delicatessen and producers, poultry sellers, fishmongers, greengrocers, cheese makers, bakers and wine merchants rub shoulders (there are 70 stalls altogether) in the merry hubbub.

In Béziers, thirty stallholders still sell their wares in the nostalgic but friendly atmosphere on Sunday mornings. Likewise, in Agde, the ten market stallholders do their utmost to attract the consumers and preserve the atmosphere of this market where you can buy your meat or cheese but also taste the oysters.

In Frontignan, a dozen stallholders also keep the market hall alive in a seaside atmosphere. In Sète, good humour and quality products are on offer every morning with of course a special area for fish and seafood.

In Lunel, the Sunday market is unique, SUDDEFRANCE - 76 -

not in terms of size but for its goodnatured spirit and village atmosphere in addition to its quality products.

In Montpellier, the Halles Castellane has wonderful stalls in the heart of the city, with 26 stallholders. Not far away, the Halles Laissac continues to assert its popular identity, like the colourful Quatre Saisons marketplace in La Paillade, with 40 stallholders. As for the Halles Jacques Cœur in the Antigone district, it plays the complementarity card, with several specialised stalls.

In Alès, the market hall may not be as aesthetically pleasing, but it is very lively, with pride of place given to local Cévennes products among the 80 stalls.

In Nîmes, the market hall is alive with friendly chatter, with people swapping recipes in the midst of the 75 market stalls, which really are the heart and soul of the city centre. ◗

The amazing petit pâté de Pézenas Invented in the 18th century by an English lord, the “petit pâté” is one of the oldest culinary traditions in Languedoc. This original little taste treat is increasingly popular. But there’s only one bakery that still makes them in the traditional way…

At the beginning of rue Conti in the centre of Pézenas, the shop called “Au palais des délices” owned by the Quatrefages family has been selling them for fifty years. First sold by Suzette and Maurice and now, for the last twenty-odd years, by Cathy and Bernard. The bakery has always sold this specialty. In Pézenas, several other bakeries used to sell them until the day came when only Quatrefages and Achille were left. As the latter disappeared without passing on the recipe, the bakery in rue Conti is the last one to produce the pastries in the traditional way. “First the flour is scalded with boiling water to form a hot dough. Then it is sliced into strips and the tops are cut out with pastry-cutters. The dough is shaped by wrapping it around a little piece of wood, the “bistourtier”, and filled with lamb mixed with brown sugar and lemon; it is allowed to stand for several hours and then baked slowly in a very hot oven”, explains Cathy Quatrefages. As for the proportions, that’s top secret! And this gives the pastry a fondant texture, like jam. To appreciate the petit pâté at its best, warm it in an oven pre-heated to 180-200°C, for no longer than 2 minutes.

Green olive tapenade, the taste of summer They used to make tapenade with black olives ripened on the tree, which received very little treatment.

And then man invented green tapenade, made from olives that are picked when they are green and which need to have their bitterness removed, as well as a milder black tapenade. The latter, designed to appeal to modern taste is made from olives that are picked just as they are turning, i.e. not quite ripe, and which are treated.

But the origin of tapenade goes back to the mists of time: there have always been recipes for sauces based on crushed olives and olive oil, in Greece, Italy, Spain and North Africa. But the “modern” recipe is thought to have come from Marseille and dates back to the 19th century. Picholine olives from Gard are mixed with anchovies from Collioure, capers, thyme, parsley and basil. Olive oil is added, together with a little lemon, salt and pepper and voilà the sunniest appetizer ever!

SUDDEFRANCE - 77 -

◗◗◗

ART OF LIVING A GOURMET REGION

A multiple territory, Languedoc-Roussillon is made up of a multitude of terroirs producing a wide range of products.

The cassoulets of Castelnaudary and Carcassonne, anchovies of Collioure, oysters of Leucate and Bouzigues, brandade from Nîmes, pelardon or sweet onions from the Cévennes are some of the best known. And today, more and more talented chefs (see pages 80-81) fly the colours of this gourmet region.

Epicurian corner

Rousquilles catalan The biscuit : 150 g of sifted flour - 45 g of icing sugar - 45 g of butter - 15 g of liquid honey - 2 tablespoons of milk - 1 teaspoon of baking powder 1 egg white - 1 tablespoon of orange flower water, or two drops of aniseed liqueur, according to taste.

The icing : 1 egg white - 70 g of icing sugar - 35 ml of water - 2 tablespoons of lemon juice Cut up the butter into small cubes. Mix it together with the flour, baking powder and icing sugar. Crumble the mixture using your finger tips.

Add the egg yolk, honey, milk and orange flower water. Cream the mixture until you obtain a smooth, but firm dough. Place in the refrigerator for 1 hour.

Roll out the dough with a rolling pin to obtain a pancake shape about 1cm thick. Cut up using a 7-8 cm diameter pastry cutter. Remove the centre with a 3 cm diameter pastry cutter. Place the rings on a greased baking tray and leave to bake in the middle of the oven at 180°C for about 15 minutes.

They must be only very lightly golden.

While they are baking, prepare the icing: beat the egg whites until very firm and heat the icing sugar with a little water to until it forms a little ball when dropped in cold water (120°C). Add the syrup and the lemon juice to the egg whites and beat thoroughly. The egg whites must stay firm and white. Once out of the oven, cover each rousquille with the icing using a brush. Place them on a rack and dry them in the oven set at 50°C, leaving the door open. The rousquilles keep well in an airtight box.

SUDDEFRANCE - 78 -

Brasucade of Mussels, Thau-Style Serves 4 2,5 kg Mediterranean mussels (4 kg for a main dish) 25 cl olive oil Thyme, rosemary, bay leaf 1 clove of garlic, crushed - Pepper Put oil, herbs, and garlic in a little bowl and let them macerate for at least 24 hours. Ideally this sauce should be prepared a week ahead.

Light a wood fire or prepare a barbecue grill to obtain red hot coals.

Put a pan on the coals, then add the mussels.

Let them open, then discard the cooking juice. Pour the sauce over the mussels and finish cooking, briefly (2 minutes) to avoid drying them out.

Serve immediately.

Variation: add 1 teaspoon of pastis to the sauce.

Truffled brandade of cod 1 truffle melanosporum - 4 fillets of cod or salt cod - 1 kg mashed potato - ½ litre of milk 20 cl of liquid cream - Olive oil, salt, pepper The day before, grate the truffle and put it in the cream. Keep cool. Cook the potatoes in salted water.

Then peel and mash in the pot. In a skillet, pour in the milk and poach the fish. Drain on a plate and check for fish bones. Crumble it, add to potatoes and mash together then mix in the olive oil and cream infused with truffles. Serve and garnish with a slice of truffle. It can be served with a small salad of baby spinach flavoured with truffle oil.

Rouille à la sétoise Serves 6 2 kg of squid - 1 can of tomato purée 3 carrots - 25 cl of white wine 1 glass of cognac 1 dose of saffron - 1 bouquet garni 1 egg yolk - 1 tablespoon of mustard 5 cloves of garlic for aioli - 2 onions

Cut the squid into pieces. Mix the onions, peeled carrots and celery.

Mix all well and fry in olive oil. Add the tomato puree, bouquet garni and saffron. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add squid and again allow to simmer for 10 minutes. Pour in the wine and cognac. Wait 10 minutes then add salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 10 minutes before stopping the heat source. Mount the garlic mayonnaise with 1 egg yolk, mustard, garlic slices, salt and pepper. Mount the rouille in a serving dish, incorporating some aioli, the remainder being served separately. Serve with white rice.

Cevennes sweet onion fritters 500 g Cevennes sweet onions PDO - 125 g chick pea flour - 1 dessert spoon sesame seeds ½ teaspoon spices of your choice - 1 pinch of salt - 1 dessert spoon finely chopped coriander 100 ml water Cut the onions in two and slice them. Mix with salt and put to one side for 5 minutes.

Add the flour, sesame seeds, spices as well as the coriander and mix well.

Add the water while continuing to mix until you get a thick batter. Heat your deep-fat fryer and fry the batter, a dessert spoon at a time for 5-6 minutes, turning them from time to time.

When the fritters are golden brown, drain them on absorbent paper. Serve hot.

SUDDEFRANCE - 79 -

CYRIL ATTRAZIC

FRÉDÉRIC BACQUIE

PASCAL BORRELL

JEAN-MARC BOYER

SERGE CHENET

PHILIPPE DUCOS

PHILIPPE DESCHAMPS

FABIEN FAGE

CHARLES FONTÈS

FABIEN GALIBERT

LIONEL GIRAUD

GILLES GOUJON

MICHEL KAYSER

ALEXANDRE KLIMENKO

MATTHIEU DE LAUZUN

LAURENT LEMAL

ANNE MAJOUREL

PIERRE-LOUIS MARIN

DANIEL MINET

JACQUES ET LAURENT POURCEL

Languedoc-Roussillon, new seeds in the soil

22

in 2013… and 25 today. The Michelin, which is a gold standard in high-end restaurant trends, never ceases to award stars in Languedoc-Roussillon. In Pyrénées-Orientales alone, the 2014 edition of the guide has just awarded three new stars, sometimes to restaurants that have been open for less than four years.

And in Gard, it has just awarded a star to Oscar Garcia, whose restaurant has been open for less than 2 years and who has only just celebrated his… 25th birthday! Here, value doesn’t have to wait for the years to go by.

A phenomenon that is clear to everyone:

the restaurant owners of Languedoc-Roussillon, land of a thousand terroirs, through their hard work and passion, have asserted their identity and demonstrated their talents.

Whether it be Jacques and Laurent Pourcel in Montpellier, awarded stars by the Michelin guide for twenty five years and key ambassadors of this Mediterranean cuisine, Michel Kayser from Nîmes with all the finesse of his cuisine, or the talented Giraud from Aude, they all fly the colours of a land where the art of living is pronounced with a southern accent.

Gilles Goujon, the only three star chef in the region, at the head of one of France’s most prestigious restaurants (there are only 27 three-star restaurants in France) in the SUDDEFRANCE - 80 -

smallest commune (110 inhabitants) would agree with this. This ogre of life, mad about flavours and very hard working, has raised his restaurant to the firmament of French cuisine. And what about Franck Putelat from Carcassonne, who already holds two stars?

They are the ambassadors of a region that is bubbling over with talent, with people like Fontès, Ryon, Attrazic, De Lauzun, Lefebvre, and Bacquié, their worthy colleagues. Assisted by restaurants that may not be in the firmament but are equally respectable, and have been rated “Bib gourmand”, bearing witness to their excellent relations with the customer, who, during lunch or an evening meal, is the king of the world. ◗

◗◗◗

ART OF LIVING GASTRONOMY

AUDE • LA BERGERIE

CHRISTOPHE COMES

AUMONT-AUBRAC

Chef : Fabien Galibert 11600 Aragon www.labergeriearagon.com

• HOSTELLERIE DE LA POMARÈDE Chef : Gérald Garcia 11400 La Pomarède www.hostellerie-lapomarede.fr

• LA BARBACANE Chef : Jérôme Ryon 11000 Carcassonne www.hoteldelacite.com

• DOMAINE D’AURIAC

GÉRALD GARCIA

UZÈS

Chef : Philippe Deschamps 11000 Carcassonne www.domaine-d-auriac.com

PUJAUT

VILLENEUVE-LÈS-AVIGNON

• LE PARC FRANCK PUTELAT

NÎMES/GARONS

GIGNAC

Chef : Franck Putelat 11000 Carcassonne www.franck-putelat.com

MONTPELLIER SÈTE BÉZIERS LASTOURS

LA POMARÈDE

ARAGON

FABIEN LEFEBVRE

NARBONNE

PEZENS CARCASSONNE

FONTJONCOUSE LEUCATE

The number of gourmet restaurants is increasing in this region, where tastes and talents are being discovered all the time. In one year, the number of Michelin-starred restaurants has increased by 15%.

BÉLESTA PERPIGNAN MONTMER

FRANCK PUTELAT

COLLIOURE BANYULS

• AUBERGE DU VIEUX PUITS Chef : Gilles Goujon 11360 Fontjoncouse www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr

JÉRÔME RYON

• LE PUITS DU TRÉSOR Chef : Jean-Marc Boyer 11600 Lastours www.lepuitsdutresor.com

• LA TABLE SAINT-CRESCENT Chef : Lionel Giraud 11100 Narbonne www.la-table-saint-crescent.com

• L’AMBROSIA Chef : Daniel Minet 11170 Pezens www.ambrosia-pezens.com

• KLIM & CO Chef : Alexandre Klimenko 11370 Leucate www.klimenko.fr

PYRÉNÉES-ORIENTALES

HÉRAULT

GARD

• OCTOPUS

• ALEXANDRE

Chef : Fabien Lefebvre 34500 Béziers www.restaurant-octopus.com

• DE LAUZUN • LE FANAL Chef : Pascal Borrell 66650 Banyuls www.pascal-borrell.com

• LA COOPÉRATIVE Chef : Laurent Lemal 66720 Bélesta www.riberach.com

• L’AUBERGE DU CELLIER Chef : Pierre-Louis Marin 66720 Montner www.aubergeducellier.com

• LA GALINETTE Chef : Christophe Comes 66000 Perpignan

• LA BALETTE Chef : Fréderic Bacquie 66190 Collioure www.relaisdes3mas.com SUDDEFRANCE - 81 -

Chef : Matthieu de Lauzun 34150 Gignac www.restaurant-delauzun.com

• LE JARDIN DE SENS Chefs : Jacques et Laurent Pourcel 34000 Montpellier www.jardindessens.com

• LA RÉSERVE RIMBAUD Chef : Charles Fontès 34000 Montpellier www.reserve-rimbaud.com

Chef : Michel Kayser 30128 Garons www.michelkayser.com

• ENTRE VIGNE ET GARRIGUE Chef : Serge Chenet 30131 Pujaut www.vigne-et-garrigue.com

• LE PRIEURÉ Chef : Fabien Fage 30400 Villeneuve-lès-Avignon www.leprieure.com

• LA TABLE D’UZÈS Chef : Oscar Garcia 30700 Uzès www.lamaisonduzes.fr

• LA COQUERIE Chef : Anne Majourel 34200 Sète www.annemajourel.fr

LOZÈRE • CHEZ CAMILLOU Chef : Cyril Attrazic 48130 Aumont-Aubrac www.camillou.com

LES ANGLES SEASIDE RESORT IN SUMMER.

NATURE

88/91 CULTURE

92 CRAFTS

93 WELLNESS

94/96 PRACTICAL INFORMATION

MOVING AROUND

84/87

As little as fifty years ago, the limestone plateaus and dunes of the LanguedocRoussillon, were little known and largely untamed.

Today – the region, which has retained its natural character, has become an almost unrivalled holiday destination.

As well as its generous range of traditional hotels and bed & breakfast, the region boasts a number of high class establishments - which make up the exclusive “Cercle Prestige” – where the quality of service is on a par with the beauty of their settings.

This part of Southern France also boasts a number of high class, luxury spas offering thalassotherapy and body treatments. One of the aspects that go to make this region so authentic is the vibrant cultural identity that is reflected in a respect for tradition. A thriving arts and crafts culture, together with some magical festivals at incredible venues, such as the city of Carcassonne or the Nîmes amphitheatre, has made Languedoc-Roussillon synonymous with creativity and celebration.

Finally, for those who like to let off steam, there are a wide range of activities to choose from: kite-surfing, golf, canoeing and sailing, to name but a few!

For more information, scan this QR code with your Smartphone or connect directly on: www.destinationsuddefrance.com

SUDDEFRANCE - 83 -

◗◗◗

MOVING AROUND NATURE

A breath of fresh air!

The green trails, 100% nature Winding their way through the region, the extent of this trail network continues to grow – a haven for mountain bikers, roller skaters and other non-motorised travellers.

They provide safe access to beaches; bordering the lake (Lez Green Route, Montpellier-la-mer, 6 km.), running along the canal, beneath the shade of the plane trees (from Béziers to Portiragnes, 15 km.). Some of these border the waterways; Narbonne’s route in Saint-Pierrela-Mer (29 km.) runs along its canals – in particular the chemin de halage of the Midi canal – and the lake at Gruissan, and the Carnon route at La Grande-Motte (6 km) leads to the beaches. Away from the coast, these routes travel through orchards and vineyards offering visitors the chance to discover the marshy plains of the Petite Camargue (from Vauver to Gallician, 7 km) – or to take in some of the charming villages (along the 14 km Agly route) presided over by the Canigou mountain.

The longest route, the “Passa Païs” in the Haute-Languedoc, constitutes 59 kilometres of a disused railway track. In the Hérault, it winds through the Jaur valley which runs along the feet of the Somail and the Espinouse mountains. In the heart of the Garrigue, amongst green oaks, holm oaks, rock roses and white heather – or through shady forests, chestnut woods and vineyards – it marches as far as Mons-la-Trivalle, crossing the Eiffel bridge, after a not-to-be-missed visit to Olargues; a mediaeval town famous for being one of the most beautiful in France. Its route crosses the HautLanguedoc regional nature park, taking you to a number of tourist sites: The Devèze cave, the Prehistoric Museum in Saint-Pons-de-Thomières, the house and church of the Knights Hospitallers in Saint-Vincent d’Olargues, to name a few. www.parc-haut-languedoc.fr

With its extraordinary number of sunny days (more than 300 a year), Languedoc-Roussillon is a land that makes it a pleasure to be outdoors.

Y

ou may stroll on the beach or opt for a more energetic holiday – it’s up to you. On or under terra firma, on the water, or in the air, the possibilities are almost limitless. Fans of farniente have 220 kilometres of sandy SUDDEFRANCE - 84 -

beaches on which to spread their towels.

The La Franqui and Carnon coasts are famous for their windsurfing and kite surfing.

Sailors will appreciate that twenty of the region’s recreational harbours bear the “Pavillon Bleue” label, a guarantee of water quality and respect of the environment.

Sensation-lovers will thrill to Lézignan’s new FlyZone, where they can simulate free fall, or take a balloon trip high over Uzès.

Families can explore new worlds in the Gévaudan Wolf Park or Sigean’s African Reserve, or get lost in the labyrinth at Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone. There’s no way to be bored in Languedoc-Roussillon! ◗

◗◗◗

MOVING AROUND NATURE

Rafting, canyoning, or canoeing -everyone into the water!

Those who are hooked on aquatic sports can choose from a whole maze of lakes, rivers and torrents in the region: canoeing and kayaking, rafting or canyoning... just pick your paddle!

T

he idealized image of Languedoc-Roussillon is the Tarn Gorges. The long turquoise ribbon cutting its way through the limestone, with the occasional real canyon, is the summer spot for cooling down.

Canoe trekking has long been the most popular activity. But there are other sites where you can practise whitewater sports: the hinterland is full of rivers and mountain streams, and almost everywhere the water has hollowed out its course in the limestone plateaux or plains. Families will look for the refreshing calm of high mountain lakes, like the wellknown Villeneuve-de-la-Raho or Bouillouses in the Eastern Pyrenees, Naussac in Lozère or the artificial lake of Salagou in Hérault. Others may prefer the cool of the river: the Gardon

near Uzès, meandering peacefully beneath the arches of the Pont du Gard. Or the Hérault Gorges from Ganges (Gard) to SaintGuilhem-le-Désert (Hérault): the Hérault river is a paradise for canoes, floating along in the green water past the rocks - dense Jurassic limestone rocks, where swimmers stretch out in the sun.

But those who want more thrilling sensations will leave aside the “cushy” version in favour of a descent in turbulent waters: but be careful, certain very fast-flowing rivers are only accessible to experienced or supervised sportsmen! The mixed canyoning technique, a combination of potholing, diving and climbing to follow the course of the stream is a popular new sport. But there are also possibilities for rafting, hydrospeed or whitewater swimming in these mountain torrents.

While Lozère, often called “the water tower” of France, has several well-known rivers (the Tarn, the Lot, the Allier) each de-

partment is an interesting destination. In Gard, the navigable routes are concentrated around the Cèze, the Vidourle and the Gardon. In Hérault, the Hérault and Orb rivers are very popular destinations. The diversity of the river Aude offers sportsmen several stretches of river depending on the flow rate and the degree of difficulty one is looking for, whereas in the Eastern Pyrenees, sports activities focus on two coastal rivers, the Tech and the Tet. Moreover, the Llech Gorges in this department are ideal for rafting. ◗

The mountain in summer, a privilege to be savoured The winter sports stations don’t just close their doors when spring arrives. They swap their white winter drapes for a carpet of green and their skis and snow shoes for walking boots, mountain bikes or even donkeys!

Mountain stations offer a multitude of outdoor activities for you to enjoy in an environment that’s bursting with energy and floral life!

One of these stations is the Bolquère-Pyrénées 2000, set in the heart of the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park, with its lakeside trails. Les Bouillouses (pictured above right) or the Matemale, encircled by the mountain peaks and offering not only a stunning panoramic view, but also the chance to meet some of the local wildlife - chamois, wood

grouse, mountain sheep, marmots and vultures, as well as try your hand at paragliding, canyoning or rafting in the limpid waters of the Canigou mountain and where you will discover some of the best Catalan canyons.

Not far from the Mediterranean beaches, the Espace Cambre d’Aze is the chance to practice some more restful activities – fishing, caving or taking a dip in the thermal spas of Llo or Saint Thomas. The Belcaire lake at the Camurac station in the Aude is perfect for a dip and the Pays de Sault is criss-crossed with mountain bike trails and foot paths; offering the chance to discover the majestic forests and the spectacular, wild gorges of Rébenty. Or perhaps you would prefer exploring some of the many Visigoth castles before taking the Cathar Way, which runs SUDDEFRANCE - 85 -

through the Pays de Sault, from Belvis to Comus – passing through the Picaussel forest.

In the Cévennes, the Bleymard Mont-Lozère station is an ideal place to pick up the route taken by Robert Louis Stevenson in 1878 - when he travelled almost 252 kilometres with his donkey, Modestine.

Donkey hire and guided walks are available on this “grande randonnée” trail (GR70) which goes across the peaks of Mount Lozère, the Gévaudan and the Cévennes valleys – you can also follow the route in stages, on pony back or on foot.

Thermal spas offer a moment to relax and absorb the benefits of pure mountain water and the local cuisine is full of local specialities to delight your taste buds – these are just two of the reasons why your visit is sure to be memorable.

◗◗◗

MOVIND AROUND NATURE

A sea to explore above and below!

With its 25 recreational harbours and many scuba diving facilities to explore the rich undersea environment, the region is totally dedicated to the Mediterranean.

T

he Mediterranean and the Gulf of Lion bathe Languedoc-Roussillon and offer a vast ‘playing field’ for sailors. Changing winds, sunshine the year round, warm water in summer, Languedoc-Roussillon is sailing country, with 25 recreational harbours and 22,000 mooring spots, including Port-Camargue, the largest in Europe.

Sailboat and motorboat rental, with or without skipper, harbour facilities adapted to pleasure craft, tourist activities available at ports of call, organised races in summer and winter, boat shows, national and international sporting events, the presence

of great navigators – so many assets make Languedoc-Roussillon a seafarers’ land.

You can go scuba diving in search of sea bass, mullet, cuttlefish, octopus, lobster, or seahorses, with the thousands of other species populating the depths.

The Côte Vermeille – especially with the Banyuls-Cerbère marine reserve – is well known to divers, but there are other sites to explore: the rocky strip of La GrandeMotte, the stretches off Espiguette, or the Tables off Cap d’Agde.

Introduction to diving or exploration, there’s something for everyone on this ‘Mare Nostrum’, as the Romans called it.

And those who “simply” want to swim will have the privilege of swimming in a sea whose quality of water is perfect. Every season, some 3000 samples are taken at 300 sites.

With 95 certified beaches in 27 communes, Languedoc-Roussillon, in 2013, was the region with the highest number of bathing areas benefitting from the “Blue Flag” in France. This label is awarded to beaches with satisfactory standards of water quality, infrastructure, sand maintenance, safety and prohibition of animals. ◗ SUDDEFRANCE - 86 -

When the wind blows...

They’re a signature of our beaches: the multi-coloured wings of kite surfers.

The origin of the sport is difficult to determine, but the first prototypes emerged from the water in this region around 1996.

Now France has 50,000 enthusiasts, of whom about 5,000 enjoy their pastime on our beaches. Their favourite spots are the magnificent beach at Espiguette, PortCamargue, Carnon, Palavas, Aresquiers, Cap d’Agde, and Sète, together with La Franqui a little farther on. The only restriction on this practice is the arrival of bathers in the summer. But for the past few years there have been zones specifically set aside for kite surfing: Villeneuve-lèsMaguelone, Espiguette, and marked zones from Grand Travers (La Grande-Motte) to Saint-Cyprien in the Pyrénées-Orientales.

DOMAINE DE BARRES (LANGOGNE)

LOZÈRE LA GARDE-GUÉRIN (VILLEFORT) LE SABOT (LA CANOURGUE)

Golf courses for pros and amateurs

ALÈS RIBAUTE

UZÈS

NÎMES CAMPAGNE

NÎMES VACQUEROLLE

HÉRAULT FONTCAUDE JUVIGNAC (MONTPELLIER)

LAMALOU-LES-BAINS

COULONDRES (SAINT-GÉLY-DU-FESC) MASSANE (MONTPELLIER) LA GRANDE-MOTTE

SAINT-THOMAS (BÉZIERS)

CARCASSONNE

AUDE

NARBONNE SAINTE ROSE

MONTESCOT (PERPIGNAN) SAINT-CYPRIEN

With around twenty regional league golf courses, the Languedoc-Roussillon has much to offer for both amateurs and professionals of this sport.

O

riginating in Scotland, this increasingly popular game will be included in the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio. Practised by those who enjoy outdoor activities and contact with nature, its rules and techniques require discipline, concentration and relaxation. Although the game itself is played on a well-defined terrain, its surrounding environment is of huge importance.

A 6 to 8 kilometre walk around the fairways, in a magical setting – in good weather, certainly makes all the difference. In addition to these basic conditions which go to make the game so enjoyable, no two golf courses are the same...

At Carcassonne, for example, situated at the feet of the mediaeval city, you can take in a panoramic view of the Pyrenees and the Black Mountain; and play one of the most original holes in Europe (the number 9). Designed by the architects Morandi & Harradine, the Nîmes Campagne course is reputed for the difficulty of its greens and

FONT-ROMEU

PYRÉNÉESORIENTALES

FALGOS (ST-LAURENT-DE-CERDANS)

narrow fairways which are lined by a variety of trees. Cap d’Agde golf is a demanding course which winds along the shoreline; through olive trees, palm trees and umbrella pines. In the Cévennes of Lozére, not far from the Tarn and Aubrac gorges, the Canourgue golf course is set in a hilly, wooded landscape – its many slopes and narrow fairways ensure a game that will challenge your technique.

At Font-Romeu it’s impossible to swing with your feet flat on the ground! This course offers some original golfing in a picture postcard setting – the peaks of the Pyrenees under a blue Mediterranean sky. Or there is the Domaine de Falgos - also in the Eastern Pyrenees.

It is amongst the most beautiful courses and you will discover some breathtaking scenery and a challenging game. The diverse mixture of our courses - those along the shoreline, the Lozére landscapes or those at high altitude in the Pyrenees - attracts an increasing number of enthusiasts each year from both France and abroad. ◗ SUDDEFRANCE - 87 -

• Carcassonne. 18 holes - par 71 5 758 m. Tél. 06.13.20.85.43 www.golf-de-carcassonne.com • Narbonne Sainte Rose.

Training centre and golf course “Pitch & Putt” with 18 holes - 1 200 m.

Tél. 04.68.27.37.99 www.golfsterosenarbonne.com • Nîmes Campagne. 6 135 m 18 holes - par 72. Tél.

04.66.70.17.37 www.golfnimescampagne.com • Golf de Nîmes Vacquerolle 18 holes - par 72 - 6 185 m GARD Tél. 04.66.23.33.33 www.golf-nimes.com/ • Cap d'Agde. 18 holes - par 72 6 279 m. Tél. 04.67.26.54.40 www.golf.ville-agde.fr/ • Coulondres (Saint-Gély-du-Fesc).

18 holes - par 73 - 6 149 m Tél. 04.67.84.13.75 www.coulondres.com • Fontcaude. 18 holes - par 6 250 m.

Tél. 04.67.45.90.10. www.golfhotelmontpellier.com • La Grande-Motte. 18 holes - par 72 6 200 m et 18 holes - par 58 - 3 200 m.

Tél. 04.67.56.05.00 www.lagrandemotte.fr/ • Montpellier. Massane. 18 holes par 72 - 6 081 m. Tél. 04.67.87.87.87 www.massane.com • Saint-Thomas (Béziers). 18 holes par 72 - 6 131 m. Tél. 04.67.39.03.09 www.golfsaintthomas.com • Le Sabot-La Canourgue. 18 holes par 71 - 5 452 m. Tél. 04.66.32.84.17 www.golf-desgorgesdutarn.com/ • Falgos Golf Resort (St-Laurentde-Cerdans) 18 holes - par 70 - 5 177 m Tél. 04.68.39.51.42. www.falgos.fr • Saint-Cyprien. 18 holes - par 73 6 475 m. Tél. 04.68.37.63.63. www.saintcyprien-golfresort.com • Alès Ribaute. 6 holes - par 19 1 000 m. Tél. 06.08.24.24.10 www.golg-ales-ribaute.fr • Uzès. 9 holes - par 36, 2 955 m.

Tél. 04.66.22.40.03 www.golfuzes.fr • Lamalou-les-Bains. Golf de 9 holes - par 35 2 600 m. Tél. 04.67.95.08.47 www.golf-lamalou-les-bains.com • Domaine de Barres (Langogne).

Golf 9 holes - par 36 - 2 700 m.

Tél. 04.66.46.08.37 www.domainedebarres.com/ • La Garde-Guérin (Villefort) 9 holes - par 32 - 1 864 m.

Tél. 04.66.46.91.90 • Font-Romeu. 9 holes - par 36 2 517 m. Tél. 04.68.30.10.78. www.golf-font-romeu.fr • Montescot (Perpignan) 9 holes par 36 - 3 027 m. Tél. 04.68.82.79.29 www.golfclubdemontescot.com/

LE CAP D'AGDE

Ligue de Golf du Languedoc-Roussillon.

Tél. 04.66.68.22.62 www.liguegolflanguedocroussillon.org

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MOVING AROUND ART AND MUSEUM

R

oussillon was the laboratory of modern painting, with Picasso, Braque, Max Jacob, Soutine, and Chagall, and a temple of sculpture thanks to Maillol. The shores of Hérault inspired Gustave Courbet – worldfamous for his “L’Origine du Monde” – and, more light-heartedly, Albert Dubout cartooned the town of Palavas. In the 1960s, the originators of the Supports/Surfaces movement (which accords equal importance to the materials, the act of creation, and the finished work) often came from this region: Viallat, Dezeuze, Devade, and Dolla Bioulès contributed largely to the demystification of the artistic object.

The region’s most famous artist at work today is doubtless Pierre Soulages (photo), who divides his time between Paris and Sète. His monochrome works, all based on the reflection of light and the varying surface effects of black paint, designated by the term “Outre-noir” (Beyond Black), were

TO DO/MUSEUM SELECTION Musée Fabre

From Fauvism to the Art Modeste movement Collioure, Sète, and Céret have influenced major artists, notably members of the Fauvism movement.

But the relationship between art and the region doesn’t stop there. LanguedocRoussillon is the refuge of many creators.

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exhibited at the Centre Georges-Pompidou in Paris and the Hermitage in Saint Petersburg before, in 2007, Montpellier’s Musée Fabre devoted a room to him after his donation to the city of twenty of his works.

Anselm Kiefer, the famous creator of monumental sculptors, at one time had his studio in Barjac, Gard. Sophie Calle, whose mission as an artist consists of making her life, particularly its most intimate moments, her work, using all possible media, loves to recharge her batteries at Cailar in Petite Camargue. And, of course, the Figuration Libre movement – which exploded in the 1980s with rock’n’roll or Arab-inflected works, painting deliberately “crude” when not actually part of the Bad Painting movement (see Julian Schnabel) – although born in Nice, settled in this region.

Hervé Di Rosa, born in Sète, further developed this movement by creating Art Modeste, which for the past thirteen years has had its own international museum, MIAM, in Sète. There are so many vibrant artists whose works are to be found in the region’s museums: Nîmes’ Carré d’Art, Sérignan’s Musée d’Art Contemporain, Céret’s Musée d’Art Moderne, not to mention Montpellier’s Musée Fabre and Lodève’s Musée Fleury. New talents are emerging today in Languedoc-Roussillon. The painter Pierre-Luc Poujol, the photographer Catherine Gfeller, the sculptor Audrey Martin, and the enigmatic TTY-Art exhibit their work in the many galleries and contemporary art centres dotting Collioure, AiguesMortes, Nîmes, Carcassonne, Narbonne, Perpignan, and Béziers. ◗ SUDDEFRANCE - 88 -

Fine Arts Museum of Montpellier, well known for paintings by Courbet and the room devoted to Soulages.

39, Bd Bonne-Nouvelle - Montpellier.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 67 14 83 00. museefabre.montpellier-agglo.com Musée Fleury Works by Braque, Caillebotte and Léger, with regularly changing exhibitions.

Square Georges-Auric - Lodève.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 67 88 86 10. www.museedelodeve.fr Centre régional d’art contemporain Exhibition of the work of young creators in the region.

26, quai Aspirant-Herbet - Sète.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 67 74 94 37. crac.languedocroussillon.fr Musée international des arts modestes The MIAM is a playful museum, with contemporary art works from the 1950s to the present day.

23, quai Maréchal-de-Lattre-de-Tassigny -Sète.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 99 04 76 44 - www.miam.org Musée Fayet Classical works to modern art (Chirico, Soutine, Dufy).

9, rue du Capus - Béziers.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 67 49 04 66. www.beziers-mediterranee.com Musée Régional d’Art contemporain A look at creativity from the 1960s to the present day.

146, av. de la Plage - Sérignan.

Tel 00 33 (0)4 67 32 33 05. mrac.languedocroussillon.fr Musée des Beaux Arts The works of Italian and Flemish painters in particular.

Rue de la Cité-Foulc - Nîmes.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 66 67 38 21- www.nimes.fr Musée PAB Pierre André Benoit’s modern art collection.

52, montée des Lauriers - Alès.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 66 86 98 68. www.alescevennes.fr Carré d’Art Over 400 works from the 1960s to today in this contemporary art museum.

16, place de la Maison-Carrée - Nîmes.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 66 76 35 70. carreartmusee.com Musée d’Art moderne Nearly 200 works by the artists who painted Collioure.

Route de Port-Vendres - Collioure.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 68 82 10 19. www.collioure.net Musée Maillol Fruit of a donation by Dina Vierny, a museum devoted to the sculptor Maillol.

Vallée de la Roume - Banyuls-sur-Mer. Tel. 00 33 (0)4 68 88 57 11. www.museemaillol.com Espace d’Art contemporain Devoted to the Catalan artist Josep PuigMarti.

Place de Catalogne - Bourg-Madame.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 68 30 11 60. hwww.bourg-madame.fr Musée d’Art moderne de Céret A beautiful collection of painting art movements in the South of France: Bioulès, Daniel Dezeuze, Claude Viallat etc.

8, Bd Maréchal-Joffre - Céret.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 68 87 27 76. www.musee-ceret.com Musée des Beaux Arts Paintings and ceramics from the 17th century to the present day.

1, rue de Verdun - Carcassonne.

Tel. 00 33 (0)4 68 77 73 70 www.tourisme-carcassonne.fr

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SELECTION/SUMMER FESTIVALS When I think of Fernande

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MOVING AROUND FESTIVALS AND TRADITIONS

From 11 to 16 June - Sète (Hérault) www.quandjepenseafernande.fr Uzès Danse From 13 to 18 June - Uzès (Gard) www.uzesdanse.fr Crime Novel Festival From 23 to 29 June - Frontignan (Hérault) www.polar-frontignan.org Montpellier Danse From 22 June to 9 July - Montpellier (Hérault) www.montpellierdanse.com Sète Worldwide Festival From 30 June to 6 July - Sète (Hérault) www.worldwidefestival.com Carcassonne Festival From 19 June to 1 August Carcassonne (Aude) www.festivaldecarcassonne.fr Nîmes Festival From 28 June to 24 July - Nîmes (Gard) www.festivaldenimes.com The Waves at Argelès From 7 to 9 July Argelès-sur-Mer (Pyrénées-Orientales) www.festival-lesdeferlantes.com Thau Festival From 7 to 20 July - 34140 Mèze (Hérault) www.festivaldethau.com Festa d’Oc at Béziers From 10 to 14 July - Béziers (Hérault) www.ville-beziers.fr Electrobeach From 11 to 12 July Port-Barcarès (Pyrénées-Orientales) http://www.electrobeach.eu Salty evenings From 11 to 13 July - Aigues-Mortes (Gard) www.ot-aiguesmortes.fr Jazz at Sète From 12 to 19 July - Sète (Hérault) http://jazzasete.com Radio France Festival From 13 to 26 July - Montpellier (Hérault) www.festivalradiofrancemontpellier.com Music and History Festival From 15 to 20 July Abbaye de Fontfroide (Aude) www.fontfroide.com Voices of the Mediterranean Lodève (Hérault) - From 16 to 20 July www.voixdelamediterranee.com Off the Beaten Track From 17 to 19 July - Chanac (Lozère) www.detoursdumonde.org Uzès Musical Nights From 18 to 31 July - Uzès (Gard) www.nuitsmusicalesuzes.org Jazz at Junas From 23 to 26 July - Junas (Gard) www.jazzajunas.asso.fr Cevennes Dreams 25 to 27 July - Sumène (Gard) www.lestranses.org Pablo Casals Festival From 26 July to 13 August Prades (Pyrénées-Orientales) http://prades-festival-casals.com Flamenco Week Festival From 18 to 23 August Rivesaltes (Pyrénées-Orientales) http://la-reja-flamenca.com Trenet ‘Y’a d’la joie’ Festival From 28 to 30 August - Narbonne (Aude) www.festivaltrenet.com

Site of many cultures A land rich in history, Languedoc-Roussillon has preserved a multiplicity of traditions and cultures, enriched by the contributions of artists living in and inspired by the region.

F

rom the famous Carnival of Limoux – the world’s longest – to the Festival of the Bear in Vallespir, by way of Camargue's festivals, sardane, corridas, water-jousts, and of course grape harvest festivals, the region is rich in traditional celebrations, sometimes hundreds of years old.

In this rebellious region, popular festivals were also, for a long time, a way of affirming identity and resisting centralised power. Combining legend, folklore, religion, and important moments of the peasant life of yesteryear, these festivals and traditions SUDDEFRANCE - 89 -

remain lively and welcoming. This is especially the case for festivals of totem animals representing a community, which take place in Villeveyrac, Mèze, Loupian, Pézenas, and Bessan.

Although they take place throughout the year, the majority of these events are held in warm weather. This is the case for the Fête de la Saint-Louis at Aigues-Mortes, the Fête de la Saint-Pierre, with its celebrated water-jousts, at Sète, the oyster festival at Bouzigues, the Fête du Babau at Rivesaltes, the wickerwork festival at Vallabrègues, not to mention the many votive festivals punctuating the summer. ◗

• Feria de Nîmes (Gard) : from 4 to 9 June and from 13 to 14 September 2014 - www.arenesdenimes.com • Feria de Céret (Pyrénées-Orientales) : from 12 to 14 July 2014 www.ceret-de-toros.com • Feria de Béziers (Hérault) : from 14 to 17 August 2014 arenes-de-beziers.com

IN AUJAC (GARD).

Languedoc-Roussillon, a true film set!

Abounding in atypical and protected locations, the region offers numerous settings which appeal to the cinema. And this is not new.

F

rom Cartouche (Swords of Blood) to Indigènes (Days of Glory) via Histoire d’O (Story of O), one loses count of the films with many of their scenes set in the region. In L’homme qui aimait les femmes (The Man who Loved Women), the 1976 cult film, François Truffaut pays tribute to women and Montpellier, and even asserts that the most beautiful women in France are to be found there.

Le salaire de la peur (The Wages of Fear) at Anduze, 37°2 le matin (Betty Blue) at Gruissan Other films not to be missed were made between the 1950s and 70s like Le salaire de la peur’ (The Wages of Fear) in the bamboo plantation at Anduze, Le corniaud (The Sucker) with Bourvil and Louis de Funès in Carcassonne, L’alpageur (Hunter will get you) with Jean-Paul Belmondo inside the Lydia at Port-Barcarès, and Les camisards (The French Calvinists) in Florac. Everyone remembers the Gruissan beach huts in 37°2 le matin (Betty Blue) or the Château de Puivert in La passion Béatrice (The Passion of Béatrice) and La neuvième porte (The Ninth Gate). One cannot be unaware that scenes from Cyrano de Bergerac

were filmed in Uzès and that Les Visiteurs (The Visitors) was partly shot in Carcassonne, like Robin des bois prince des voleurs (Robin Hood : Prince of Thieves).

Films, and more and more series

AUDE (11) CASTELNAUDARY • L’ENFER

Film director : Claude Chabrol - 1993 With : Emmanuelle Béart, François Cluzet

CARCASSONNE Moreover, two films shot in the region – Michael Kohlhaas at Aujac and in Lozère, Suzanne between Alès and Sète – won prizes at the most recent Césars, the French Oscars.

Aware of this rich heritage, the local authorities moreover created in 2006 LanguedocRoussillon Cinéma, a hosting and aid facility for the making of films, TV and short films, which allowed the region to host the making of 43 films in 2012. «For some years we have been attracting big names and big projects», confirms Marin Rosensthiel, in charge of film commissioning. It is certainly an opportunity to show the region to the best advantage – his department spends a lot of time seeking out original and unusual locations – but also to lead to economic knock-on effects. What is more, the region is becoming an area of choice for series, following the example of Candice Renoir or Crimes et botaniques (Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels), shot around Montpellier. And if Labyrinth can only increase the international notoriety of Carcassonne, it is possible that the film currently being edited

by Tony Gatlif (Géronimo) shot in Perpignan, the next Luc Besson (Lucy) with its scenes in Sainte-Enimie or again the mass appeal film Barbecue (Grilled) shot at Arphy in Gard, will make one want to come and discover this region of contrasts! ◗ SUDDEFRANCE - 90 -

• LE CORNIAUD Film director : Gérard Oury - 1964 With : Bourvil, Louis de Funès

• ROBIN DES BOIS PRINCE DES VOLEURS Film director : Kevin Reynolds - 1991 With : Kevin Costner, Morgan Freeman

• LES VISITEURS Film director : Jean-Marie Poiré - 1993 With : Christian Clavier, Jean Reno

• LABYRINTH Film director : Christopher Smith (série) 2011. With : Tom Felton, Jessica Brown Findlay

GRUISSAN • 37°2 LE MATIN Film director : Jean-Jacques Beineix 1986. With : Béatrice Dalle, Jean-Hugues Anglade

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MOVING AROUND CULTURE ON THE MOVE

FLEURY-D’AUDE • LE PETIT BAIGNEUR Film director : Robert Dhéry - 1967 With : Louis de Funès, Pierre Tornade

PUIVERT • LA PASSION BÉATRICE Film director : Bertrand Tarvernier 1987. With : Bernard-Pierre Donnadieu, Julie Delpy

• LA NEUVIÈME PORTE Film director : Roman Polanski - 1999 With : Jonnhy Depp, Lena Olin, Emmanuelle Seigner

PYRÉNÉESORIENTALES (66) PERPIGNAN • GERONIMO Film director : Tony Gatlif - 2013 With : Céline Salette, Rapahêl Personnaz

PORT-BARCARÈS • L’ALPAGEUR Film director : Philippe Labro - 1976 With : Jean-Paul Belmondo, Bruno Cremer

HÉRAULT (34) BOUZIGUES • LA TRÈS TRÈS GRANDE ENTREPRISE Film director : Pierre Jolivet - 2008 With : Jean-Paul Rouve, Marie Gilain, Roschdy Zem

SÈTE • LA GRAINE ET LE MULET Film director : Abdellatif Kechiche 2007. With : Habib Boufares, Hafsia Herri

• COUP D’ÉCLAT Film directors : José Alcala, Olivier Gorce - 2010 With : Catherine Frot, Tchéky Karyo

MONTPELLIER • L’EMMERDEUR Film director : Edouard Molinaro 1973. With : Lino Ventura, Jacques Brel

• DEUX HOMMES DANS LA VILLE Film director : José Giovanni - 1972 With : Alain Delon, Jean Gabin

• L’HOMME QUI AIMAIT LES FEMMES Film director : François Truffaut - 1977 With : Charles Denner, Brigitte Fossey

• DIDIER Film director : Alain Chabat - 1997 With : Jean-Pierre Barci, Alain Chabat

• ANTIGONE 34 Film director : Louis-Pascal Couvelaire et Roger Simonsz (Série) - 2011 With : Anne Le Nen, Bruno Todeschini

• N’IMPORTE QUI Film director : Raphaël Frydman 2014. With : Rémi Gaillard

FRONTIGNAN/PALAVAS • UN WEEK-END SUR DEUX Film director : Nicole Garcia - 1990 With : Nathalie Baye, Joachim Serreau

CELLES • TOUTES NOS ENVIES Film director : Philippe Lioret - 2010 With : Vincent Lindon, Marie Gillain

ASSAS • LA BELLE NOISEUSE Film director : Jacques Rivette - 1991 With : Michel Piccoli, Jane Birkin, Emmanuelle Béart

PALAVAS • UN BEAU DIMANCHE

ALÈS

Film director : Nicole Garcia - 2012 With : Louise Bourgoin, Pierre Rochefort

• SUZANNE Film director : Katelle Quilévéré 2013. Sara Forestier, Adèle Haenel

BÉZIERS

BEAUCAIRE

• CARTOUCHE

• LE HUSSARD SUR LE TOIT

Film director : Philippe de Broca 1961. With : Jean-Paul Belmondo, Claudia Cardinale

Film director : Jean-Paul Rappeneau 1995. With : Juliette Binoche, Olivier Martinez

• RESPIRE

• INDIGÈNES

Film director : Mélanie Laurent, 2013 With : Isabelle Carré, Claire Keim

LA GRANDE-MOTTE

AUJAC

• PAULINE DÉTECTIVE

• MICHAEL KOHLHAAS

Film director : Marc Fitoussi - 2011 With : Sandrine Kiberlain, Audrey Lamy

Film director : Arnaud des Pallières 2012. With : Mads Mikkelsen, David Bennent

LANSARGUES

SAINT-FÉLIX-DE-PALLIÈRES

• LES AMANTS DU PONT NEUF

• LE BRUIT DES GLAÇONS

Film director : Leos Carax - 1991 With : Denis Lavant, Juliette Binoche

LAMALOU-LES-BAINS

Film director : Bertrand Blier - 2010 With : Jean Dujardin, Albert Dupontel, Anne Alvaro

PONT DU GARD

• MERCI LA VIE Film director : Bertrand Blier - 1991 With : Anouk Grinberg, Gérard Depardieu, Michel Blanc

LE CAYLAR • HISTOIRE D’O Film director : Just Jeackin - 1976 With : Corinne Cléry

VILLEVEYRAC

• LES VACANCES DE MR BEAN Film director : Steve Bendelack - 2007 With : Rowan Atkinson, Emma de Caunes

Film director : Christophe Douchant 2012 (série). With : Cécile Bois, Raphaël Lenglet

Film director : Henri-Georges Clouzot1952. With : Charles Vanel, Yves Montand

ARPHY • BARBECUE Film director : Eric Lavaine, 2013 With : Florence Foresti, Franck Dubosc, Lambert Wilson

LA ROQUE-SUR-CÈZE • RRRRRR !!!

Film director : Alain Chabat - 2003 With : Marina Foïs, Jean-Paul Rouve

• CYRANO DE BERGERAC

Film director : Robert Altman - 1991 With : Tim Roth, Paul Rhys

• SANS TOIT NI LOI Film director : Agnès Varda - 1985 Sandrine Bonnaire, Macha Méril

• BELLAMY

• LE SALAIRE DE LA PEUR

Film director : Alain Resnais - 1983 With : Pierre Arditi, Sabine Azéma

UZÈS

Film director : Claude Lelouch - 1992 With : Gérard Lanvin, Béatrice Dalle

ANDUZE

• L’AMOUR À MORT

• VINCENT & THÉO

• LA BELLE HISTOIRE

GARD (30)

LA ROQUE-SUR-CÈZE

MONTFRIN

NÎMES

• CANDICE RENOIR

Film director : Rachid Bouchareb 2006. With : Jamel Debbouze, Samy Naceri

Film director : Claude Chabrol - 2008.

With : Gérard Depardieu, Clovis Cornillac

SUDDEFRANCE - 91 -

Film director : Jean-Paul Rappeneau 1989. With : Gérard Depardieu, Jacques Weber

LOZÈRE (48) FLORAC • LES CAMISARDS Film director : René Allio - 1970 Philippe Clevenot, Gérard Desarthe

SAINTE-ENIMIE • LUCY - 2013 Film director : Luc Besson With : Morgan Freeman

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MOVING AROUND CRAFTS

Made right here!

Crafts are the heart of the region, heritage and identity that they transcend. In this area, Languedoc-Roussillon is well endowed.

I

f there’s one part of heritage that is full of life, this is it. Because crafts, whose history and origin may be lost in the past, are the guarantors of memory and continuity. Whether as a stonemason like Frédéric Matan, awarded the title Meilleur Ouvrier de France (best craftsman in France) working in Pouget (Hérault) and reproducing gestures that go back for millennia, or by carrying on the traditional ways of making hayforks in Sauve or “boutis”, fabric that is embroidered using a technique commonly used in the Petite Camargue, these skills are all part of the charm of the region.

In many villages in Capcir, the Cévennes or the valleys of the Aude,

crafts are still alive and are increasingly practised by young, dynamic artisans keen to transmit their skills and passion. But new interpretations can also emerge, such as Catalan garnet jewellery (where garnet jewellery production is listed as living heritage), the work of ceramists in Montpellier or Saint-Quentin-la-poterie (Gard) or the chainmail chandeliers made by Philippe Montels in Agde (Hérault).

Some crafts have even developed into high quality activities that enhance the notoriety of the area. This is true of the glasswork of Claret (Hérault) or the stringed instrument and bow making workshops of Montpellier. Sometimes even, as with Vigatanes (Catalan espadrilles) or the woven fabric of Toiles du Soleil (Pyrénées-Orientales), craft lovers have managed to successfully revive an activity that had almost disappeared.

Today, Toiles du Soleil even has a shop in Paris and exports worldwide.

In Aude, the desire to communicate these talents may even lead to setting up a craftsmen’s village in Carcassonne in a few years. ◗ SUDDEFRANCE - 92 -

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MOVING AROUND WELLNESS

Spa and massages for a relaxing break Spas galore!

In a complicated world, taking care of yourself has become a necessity. Between Perpignan and Nîmes, there are a large number of top class establishments offering the chance to get away and pamper yourself.

O

«

ur philosophy is to offer a holiday for your skin – and for your body; by applying the ancient beauty rituals and an approach to life inherited from the Asian dynasties», explains Anna Koleva, creator of the highly elegant spa “Sensotek” in Montpellier.

At her spa institute, treatments are based primarily on energising plants and roots from Asia and stimulating plants from the Amazon as well as Kombucha - which is fermented as a tea and is a potent antioxidant. The natural products used even form the basis of a range of cosmetics. A place for total relaxation. Other spas offer rituals based on clay, algae, muds, shea butter, honey, argan oil or even plant powders. The range of treatments on offer is impressive.

The therapeutic properties of these products and essential oils, allied with true expertise, offer a whole new world of well-being to visitors. Whether they offer swim spas, Jacuzzis or saunas – these centres are devoted to the pursuit of well-being; using both traditional massages and shiatsu techniques, reflexology or ayurvedic massages based on the principles of traditional Indian philosophy.

The Languedoc-Roussillon boasts no fewer than 12 spas. A wide selection to choose from for the ultimate in wellness. In the last ten years, conventional spa health treatments have taken on an added dimension of wellness and relaxation. Massage rooms, beauty treatments, clay baths, whirlpools and saunas have all emerged to meet the expectations of a new clientèle in search of comfort and pleasant sensations, all the while surrounded by magical countryside!

Now each year sees nearly 90,000 patients attend the region's spas. In the Pyrénées-Orientales between Céret and Arles-sur-Tech, 30 kilometres from the Mediterranean coast, the hot springs of Amélie-les-Bains are famous for their rich sulphur content. The Romans built the first baths there. And these thermal spas built on the sites of those ancient baths now offer you a world of total relaxation before heading out to conquer the peaks of the Albères or the Canigou.

A stone's throw from Spain, Le Boulou is the perfect blend of spa and tourist resort. The complex is part of a vast area dominated by the fragrant plants of the scrubland, ideal for long and reinvigorating walks after your relaxation treatment. In Molitg-les-Bains, near Prades, the baths nestle in the hollow of the Castellane Gorges at the foot of the medieval fortress of Paracolls, near the old village. With its weightless mud baths and kneading showers, the thermal spa promises no end of pummelling delights!

The resort of Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste offers an opportunity to combine hydrotherapy and nature with an exploration of Catalan art. Here in the old village, whose walls are steeped in history, the combined benefits of warm water (44 ° C) and sulphur are guaranteed to help you forget your fatigue and nagging pains. At 310 metres in the Upper Aude Valley, the resort of Rennes-lesBains has been devoted to spa treatments since ancient times. Its traditional services have recently been boosted with a fitness suite and a beauty centre – an ideal combination with the pleasures of exploring the Aude countryside.

In Hérault, Balaruc, Lamalou-les-Bains and Avène-les-Bains all offer a chance to try out this new spa approach, not to mention Allègre-les-Fumades in the Cévennes or La Chaldette in Lozère. What's more, these spas are joined by the many thalassotherapy centres in La Grande-Motte, Banyuls, Port-Barcarès, Canet-en-Roussillon... www.thalasso-thermale.com

Staying with the exotic ... you can also enjoy a spot of pampering at a Haman. The famous Bain d’épices in Montpellier offers women the chance to try out the ancient ritual of beauty and relaxation and enjoy a glass of SUDDEFRANCE - 93 -

spicy mint tea in a smart, unusual setting.

Whether you are looking for a little calm or a shot of energy - help to relax, lose weight or just get fit – this is where well-being is within the reach of all! ◗

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MOVING AROUND ENCHANTING ACCOMMODATIONS

A made-to-measure holiday From picturesque hotels to refined holiday homes, with off-the-beaten track locations and a warm, attentive welcome, accommodation quality makes every guest a special guest.

C

lassic or luxurious, Languedoc-Roussillon’s accommodations are beyond cavil.

With a vast and varied territory including both the shore of the Gulf of Lion and the green valleys inland, LanguedocRoussillon has countless superb sites representing local art de vivre. Here, there's no need to look elsewhere.

Above all, accommodations are extremely varied. A stay in a holiday gîte will delight visitors who want a family atmosphere in a traditional cottage or outbuilding, tastefully decorated by its hosts, privileged ambassadors of the terroir.

By the sea, vacation villages or hotels with all the conveniences are an ideal solution for enjoying both the beach and modern

facilities like a pool, spa, and gym.

Guaranteed by the ‘Qualité Sud de France’ label, these establishments let you drop your suitcase and enjoy a carefree holiday in the region.

On the other hand, over fifty establishments selected for their exceptional features form the Cercle Prestige, established

by Sud de France Développement for luxury tourism. There are a constellation of possibilities: a country escape to an authentic bastide manor, a mystical night on the grounds of a Benedictine monastery, an evening under the stars in the restaurant of a Catalan golf club, gourmet tasting in a winery domaine, and more. The quintessence of refinement, satisfying every desire for novelty, discovery, sensation. ◗ SUDDEFRANCE - 94 -

◗

Trust Sud de France for your accommodation

This label, established in 2008, guarantees a warm and professional welcome, quality, and comfort in more than 1000 Languedoc-Roussillon establishments and tourist sites.

Accommodations, restaurants, wine-tastings, sale outlets for local products, tourist and cultural sites, all are committed to rigorous standards and pass an external audit before the label is awarded. They are capable of welcoming English-speaking and reduced-mobility clients, and will provide clear, thorough information on cultural and recreational activities in Languedoc-Roussillon.

For more information, scan this QR code with your Smartphone or connect directly to: www.destinationsuddefrance.com

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SUD DE FRANCE PRACTICE

What to know before you go Sud de France Développement Tourisme en Languedoc-Roussillon Tél. + 33 (0)4 67 200 220 www.destinationsuddefrance.com Maisons du Languedoc-Roussillon abroad www.suddefrance-developpement.com Tourism development agency of the Aude www.audetourisme.com Tourism development agency of the Gard www.tourismegard.com Tourism development agency of the Hérault www.herault-tourisme.com Comité départemental du tourisme de la Lozère www.lozere-tourisme.com Comité départemental du tourisme des Pyrénées-Orientales www.tourisme-pyreneesorientales.com

How to get there Located in the south of France on the Mediterranean coast, Languedoc-Roussillon is three and a half hours by TGV from Paris, one and a half hours' flight from London, and two hours’ drive from Barcelona.

By air FROM FRANCE : Direct flights from Paris (to Béziers, Perpignan, Montpellier), from Lille (to Montpellier), from Strasbourg (to Montpellier), from Rennes (to Montpellier), from Nantes (to Montpellier), from Lyon (to Montpellier), from Ajaccio (to Montpellier).

FROM BELGIQUE : Direct flights from Brussels (to Carcassonne, Perpignan, Nîmes, Montpellier), from Charleroi (to Montpellier).

FROM BRITAIN : Direct flights from London (to Perpignan, Béziers, Montpellier, Nîmes), from Manchester (to Perpignan), from Bristol (to Béziers), from Leeds Bradford (to Montpellier), and from Liverpool (to Nîmes), from Birmingham (to Perpignan), from Southampton (to Perpignan), from Luton (to Nîmes), from Liverpool (to Carcassonne).

FROM SPAIN : Direct flights from Madrid. Visit the websites of the Nîmes airport (www.nimes-aeroport.fr), the Montpellier airport (www.montpellier.aeroport.fr), the Béziers airport (www.beziers.aeroport.fr), the Perpignan airport (www.aeroportperpignan.com) and the Carcassonne airport (www.aeroport-carcassonne.com) and the Girona airport in Spain (www.barcelona-girona-airport.com) FROM GERMANY : Direct flights from Munich (to Montpellier), from Francfort (to Montpellier), Dussëldorf (to Béziers, Montpellier).

FROM ITALY : Direct flights from Rome.

FROM NETHERLANDS : Direct flights from Amsterdam (to Perpignan), from Rotterdam (to Montpellier).

FROM SWEDEN : Direct flights from Stockholm (to Béziers).

FROM DENMARK : Direct flights from Copenhague (to Montpellier).

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FROM NORWAY : Direct flights from Oslo (to Béziers).

FROM LE MOROCCO : Direct flights from Casablanca, Nador, Fès (to Montpellier).

By train Direct TGV from Geneva and Brussels.

- SNCF reservations: daily TGV connections between Paris, Lille, and Lyon and the principal cities in Languedoc-Roussillon. TGV from Brussels.

NEW : direct train from Barcelone to Perpignan. Information on www.voyages-sncf.com - TER connections: www.ter-sncf.com/ Regions/languedoc_roussillon/fr - Information on Montpellier, Narbonne, Nîmes, and Perpignan stations: www.gares-en-mouvement.com/en

By car - A 61 Toulouse - Narbonne - A 75 Montpellier - Clermont-Ferrand - Paris - A 9 Barcelone (Spain) - Montpellier - Lyon - A 54 Montpellier - Marseille

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MOVING AROUND THE BRAND

I

t was in 2006 that the Région Languedoc-Roussillon conceived of an umbrella brand identifying the products of the region. Covering both wine - LanguedocRoussillon is the world’s largest vine-growing area – and food, the “Sud de France” label identifies flavourful and varied products of character.

Famous for the diversity of its terroir products, Languedoc-Roussillon showcases a genuine art de vivre including apricots, olives, strawberries, asparagus, onions, aubergines, beef, veal, pélardon goat cheese, nougat, chestnut preserves, honey, anchovies, and more.

“Sud de France”,

the umbrella brand of quality Today, nearly 2,000 businesses live up to this label. That makes around 8,000 products displaying their commitment to a region and its savoir-faire. “Sud de France” is committed to this way of production, largely inspired by the themes of sustainable development.

“Sud de France” is a Mediterranean approach, offering consumers traditional products infused with original flavours. It expresses the intention of perpetuating the Languedoc-Roussillon identity through the excellence of its products, the richness of its history, the force of its natural environment, and the conviviality of the people who work it. All these products are distributed by national brands and benefit from regular promotion campaigns in France and abroad. ◗ www.sud-de-france.com

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THE STRENGTH OF A BRAND Eight years after its creation, the “Sud de France” brand is an example for other regions that want to identify the production of their territory. Let us not forget that a brand must meet several needs.

First, it must be memorable: not only consumers, but also distributors, must know the brand and think of it when they make a choice. Specialists speak of “inclusion among elements of consideration” for the buyer. A well-known brand makes it easier for a product to be added to sales outlets. Then consumers are able to see it, recognize it, and buy it.

In addition, besides making the product known, a brand must add image and meaning to the product. It must associate it with strong, positive, valued beliefs, such as quality, practicality, reliability, taste, pleasure, aspiration, conviviality...

Languedoc-Roussillon is a geographic zone associated with certain values, among them authenticity. And it is this authenticity, together with other regional values, that give meaning and strength to this brand, which has won the recognition of the public.

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- Direction de la Communication de la Région Languedoc-Roussillon - © Istockphoto - 04/2014

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Téléchargez l’application « Mon Sud de France » La Région lance deux outils pour booster le tourisme en Languedoc-Roussillon : le site Destinationsuddefrance.com pour aider à la préparation de séjours, et l’application « Mon Sud de France » pour prendre le relais auprès des internautes arrivés en Languedoc-Roussillon et les accompagner dans leur découverte du territoire. Pour des vacances à la carte.

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Sud de France brochures can be downloaded on www.destinationsuddefrance.com or from the iPad and iPhone Mon Sud de France.

Stay in contact with all the latest tourism news from Languedoc-Roussillon by subscribing to the e-newsletters Vacances en Languedoc-Roussillon and Prestige Languedoc-Roussillon on www.destinationsuddefrance.com