Sud de France Eté 2012 EN by Sud de France Développement

COUV SUD DE FRANCE - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 19/06/12 13:07 Page1

w w w.sunf r anc e.c om

SUMMER 2012

Insummer SUD DE FRANCE and winteralike... LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

ROUSSILLON LANGUEDOC-

-R R LANGUEDOC MAGAZINE FO THE TOURISM

E SUD DE FRANC OUSSILLON –

The real luxury is SU D DE FR simply being there ANC nce .co

sun fra

ww w.

TH E MA GA

ng ! W mo f NEails a rds osillon tr eya us ine in -Ro W he v doc t ue ng La

Winter 2011-2012

easy skiing Pyrenees, varied, free and ide Cévennes,Aubrac, Marger open spaces the exhilaration of wide ing! – relaxation and well-be mme progra the Après-ski, on genuine heritage The Cathar Castles: truly

SIL LO

N, SO UT

H OF FR AN CE

, SU MM

Langu edo

The Rea c-Roussillon l South

Petite Camargue, a land beyond time Montpellier, ever nearer the seaside

Grea

The Cau sses and Cévenn es: the

6th reg ional att raction to be

Extrao t ideas accomm rdinary odation offers

Cathar Castles: citadels under siege

included in UNESC O's wo rld her itage list

Stay in contact with all the latest tourism news from Languedoc-Roussillon by subscribing to the e-newslettersVacances en Languedoc-Roussillon and Prestige Languedoc-Roussillon on www.sunfrance.com

Languedoc Roussillon

Port-Vendres, the other jewel on the côte Vermeille

Port-Ve ndres, the oth Petite er jew Camargu el on the e, a lan côte Ve Montp d beyo ellier, ev rmeille nd tim er neare e Cathar r the sea Castles: side citadels Uzès, the under Mediterr siege anean Etang de Thau way of life , a passi on for oysters

Sud de France brochures can be downloaded on www.sunfrance.com or from the iPad Sud Languedoc-Roussillon application.

www.sunfrance.com

ER 20 12

SUD DE FRANCE - LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON, THE REAL SOUTH

Therealluxury isjust being there

4 tours, In 24 hours, not to be missed!

C RO US

Studio IDM - Photo Wiliam Truffy ©

Languedoc-Roussillon

LAN GUE DOC -ROU SSIL ISM IN LON LA NG UE DO

ZIN E FO R TO UR

Languedoc-Roussillon

The Real South

SUD DE FRANCE m

www.su nfrance .com

W La th ine N ng e tr EW ue vin ails ! do ey am c-R ard o ou s o ng ss f illo n

THE MAGAZINE FOR TOURISM IN LANGUEDOC ROUSSILLON, SOUTH OF FRANCE, SUMMER 2012

Uzès, the Mediterranean way of life Etang de Thau, a passion for oysters

Great ideas

Extraordinary accommodation offers The Causses and Cévennes: the 6th regional attraction to be included in UNESCO's world heritage list

01-03 SOMMAIRE - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:11 Page1

EDITORIAL

Cover photo: Paul Palau Layout: Studio IDM, Saint-Jean-de-Védas. Printed in Europe Legal deposit on publication: ISSN Number: 2112-7468 Joint Committee: 0413K 90782 Midi Libre - juin 2012 ©

Afive-starregion Languedoc-Roussillon is one of the most popular tourist destinations. And for good reason – it has so much to offer! From the Pyrénées-Orientales to Lozère, from Aude to Gard and Hérault, the intimate links between landscape and architecture and between village and man are obvious. Nature, well preserved and accessible to all, serves as the bridge between pleasure and relaxation. Because the Languedoc-Roussillon is a vast land of contrasts where, from the Mediterranean to the Pyrenees and from the Cévennes to the Corbières, the wild beauty of these sites is matched only by the soothing charm of 220 km of coastal beaches along the Mediterranean, not counting the miles of river tourism, whether on the Canal du Rhône in Sète or the Canal du Midi. With six sites now listed(the Causses and the Cévennes were added a few months ago a few months ago the city of Carcassonne, the Canal du Midi, the Pont du Gard, the way of Saint James and the Vauban fortresses), LanguedocRoussillon is the region richest in monuments and sites recognised by UNESCO as part of its World Heritage List. But its incredibly diverse wealth goes well beyond this. From its bustling cities and its well-preserved traditional villages, and from its hotels and guest houses with their proud local cuisine to its estates geared towards wine tourism, the region is a kaleidoscope of colours, scents and flavours. It goes without saying that real luxury is... just being there!

Editorial

Special edition published by the société du journal Midi Libre Ltd with a capital of 6,350,350 € Principal Shareholders GSO-SA - FCPE GMLA Head Office: rue du Mas-de-Grille 34430 Saint-Jean-de-Védas cedex Postal address: 34438 Saint-Jean-de-Védas cedex Tel: 04 67 07 67 07 Publication director: Alain Plombat Design, coordination editorial: Didier Thomas-Radux (Pôle Editions) Mail : dtradux@midilibre.com Texts: Anne Schoendoerffer, Didier Thomas-Radux, Marie Vanhamme, Anne-Pauline Principaud. With the help of: Christelle Zamora, Prisca Borrel, Géraldine Pigault, Claire Mondrian. Photo credits: William Truffy, Paul Palau, Jean-François Salles, Serge Privat, Anne Schoendoerffer, Dominique Quet, Alexis Béthune, Julien Fitte, Nathalie Amen-Vals, David Crespin, Vincent Andorra, Franck Valentin, Christine Palasz, Olivier Got, BIM, Richard Hullessen, Alain Pernia, Harry Jordan, Marc Dantan, Bernard Liégeois, Christophe Fortin, Olivier Demols, Philippe Rouah, Chartreuse de Villeneuve-les-Avignon, Port-Vendres Tourist Office, Marie Vanhamme, Nicolas Guyonnet, Sensotek, Montozarbres, Cévennes Evasion, Bolquère 2000, Françoise Lacoste, Michel Pieyre, Garrigae, Mairie de Gruissan, Serge Privat, François Privat, P. Eoche, Christophe Grilhe, Aline Périer Uzès and Uzège Tourist Offices, Y. Monahan, S. Breithaup.

Christian Bourquin President of the Languedoc-Roussillon Region President of the Regional Committee for Tourism

Alcohol abuse damages your health. Consume in moderation. Languedoc Roussillon

SUDDEFRANCE - 1 -

01-03 SOMMAIRE - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:14 Page2

SUMMARY SUD DE FRANCE Key Culture and Heritage

4-5 - PRACTICAL GUIDE

SUD

FRANCE,

A TASTE OF THE

SOUTH (4-5) - PLANNING

YOUR TRIP

(5)

7-19 - WONDERS OF THE SOUTH

THE 6

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON REGION LISTED BY UNESCO AS WORLD HERITAGE SITES: THE CAUSSES AND THE CÉVENNES (8-9), CANAL DU MIDI (10-11), PONT DU GARD (14-15), THE WAY OF SAINT JAMES (16), THE VAUBAN FORTRESSES (17), AND THE CITY OF CARCASSONNE (18-19). • FLOATING, BOATING AND CRUISING: WATERWAY TOURISM ALONG BOTH THE CANAL DU MIDI AND THE CANAL DU RHÔNE IN SÈTE (12) • 24 HOUR SIGHTSEEING TOUR - THE ROMAN TOUR (13)

FRAGRANCES OF THE SOUTH

MEDITERRANEAN FROM AIGUES-MORTES TO PORT-VENDRES, THE MAGICAL GULF OF LION (22-33) • A CYCLING TOUR BETWEEN LAND AND SEA THROUGH THE PETITE CAMARGUE THE ŒNO CIRCUIT (25) • SHORELINES AND COASTAL WATERS (28) • 24 HOUR SIGHTSEEING TOUR - THE VERMEILLE COAST (33) LANDSCAPES FROM AUBRAC AND MARGERIDE TO THE MAGNIFICENT COUNTRYSIDE WITHIN CATHAR COUNTRY, THE VERY HEART OF THE REGION’S CULTURAL HERITAGE WIDE OPEN SPACES (34-45) • 48 HOUR TOUR IN CÉVENNES (36) • THE GENTLE ROLLING COUNTRYSIDE OF THE DUCHY OF UZÈS - THE ŒNO CIRCUIT (38) • CORBIÈRES - A SUBLIME BLEND OF PRESTIGE AND MODERNITY - THE ŒNO CIRCUIT (44) TOWNS AND CITIES FROM CARCASSONNE TO MONTPELLIER, WITNESS HISTORY IN MOTION (46-59) • EXPLORE THE DOLOMITES OF FAUGÈRES ON FOOT - THE ŒNO CIRCUIT (49) • THE VINEYARDS OF ROUSSILLON, MILLENNIA OLD TRADITIONS - THE ŒNO CIRCUIT (59)

summary

Remnants of the Past

SITES WITHIN THE

21-59 -

61-71 - FLAVOURS OF THE SOUTH FROM

City of Art

THE SWEET ONIONS OF

CÉVENNES

TO ANCHOVIES FROM

COLLIOURE,

A KALEIDOSCOPE OF FLAVOURS

• THE WORLD’S MOST EXTENSIVE WINE-GROWING • REGIONAL PRODUCTS AND RECIPES (64-71)

AREA

HOUSING A WEALTH OF COLLECTIONS,

LEGENDARY FESTIVALS

(74-77)

TRADITIONS FROM SARDANE

Waterways Golf Animal Park Aquarium Mountain Resort Marina River trips Airport TGV Station Landscaped gardens

(62-63)

73-96 - COLOURS OF THE SOUTH

CULTURE MUSEUMS

Thermal Station

CATALAN REGION TO CAMARGUE (78-81) ARTS AND CRAFTS FROM THE SUN-DAPPLED ROOFTOPS OF CATALAN TO THE AGRICULTURAL MUSEUM IN GARD (82-85) TOURIST ATTRACTIONS HIKES TO SUIT ALL TASTES AND OTHER ACTIVITIES IN THE OUTSTANDINGLY BEAUTIFUL GULF OF LION (86-92) ACCOMMODATION BESPOKE ACCOMMODATION DEALS AND WELL-BEING PACKAGES (93-96) IN THE

AND ITS WORSHIP OF THE BULL

Regional Nature Park Company tour Eco-friendly Holiday Resort One of the most beautiful villages in France Unesco The “Pavillon Bleu” (“Blue Flag”) - Environment Quality Label

Further Information

To help you research you trip to Languedoc-Roussillon, Sud de France Développement Tourisme en Languedoc-Roussillon (“South of France Development – Tourism in Languedoc-Roussillon”) has developed a range of additional tools: A Cercle Prestige’ (“Circle of prestige”) iPhone app (“Sud Prestige”, available at the iTunes Store). An iPad application enabling you to download brochures (“Sud LR”, available at the iTunes Store) A mobile phone version of the sunfrance.com website (sunfrance.mobi). Finally, the small black square attached is a QR code and provides you with direct access to the sunfrance site, www.sunfrance.com. Use your smartphone to scan the code and you will automatically be taken to the Sud de France homepage. Development – Tourism in Languedoc-Roussillon.

SUDDEFRANCE - 2 -

The Way of Saint James Rivers and canals of the Midi The Domitian Way

01-03 SOMMAIRE - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:06 Page3

The Causses and the CĂŠvennes Unesco World Heritage

SUDDEFRANCE - 3 -

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:25 Page4

PRACTICAL GUIDE SUD DE FRANCE

SuddeFrance, atasteoftheSouth

t was back in 2006 that the LanguedocRoussillon region first envisaged the creation of an umbrella brand for products specific to the region. The brand would ally viticultural products - LanguedocRoussillon being the largest wine-growing region in the world, in terms of surface area - with those from the agri-food sector. Since then, the principal objective of the Sud de France label has been to select and thus distinguish regional produce which is rich in in both flavour and emotion. Reputed for its diverse offering of locally produced foods and wines, Languedoc-Roussillon is synonymous with a unique art of living and produces mouth-watering delights such as apricots, olives, strawberries, asparagus, onions, aubergines, beef, veal, Pélardon cheese, nougat, chestnut preserves, honey, anchovies and so on. Today, almost 2,000 producers carry this prestigious label along with nearly 8,000

products whose origin and excellence can be depended upon thanks to the renowned quality and know-how of their regional producers. The Sud de France brand celebrates the Mediterranean approach to food and wine. It is proud to offer consumers an excellent choice of Languedoc-Roussillon products and equally proud to commend the region it-

self, the richness of its history, its strength of character and the conviviality of those men and women who work the land to produce such goods. All products are distributed in outlets across France and can regularly be found as part of promotional offers both at home and abroad. www.sud-de-france.com

“The full potential of regional branding has yet to be realised” Six years after the Regional Council launched the Sud de France brand, where exactly does it stand?

Interview with Philippe Aurier, an expert in the field, Professor at the “Institut d’administration des entreprises” (“Institute of Business Administration”) - Montpellier 2, Director of the research laboratory, “Montpellier Recherche en Management”(“Montpellier Research in Management”) and co-author of “Le marketing des produits agroalimentaires” (“Marketing in the agri-food industry”).

Do you think the creation of the Sud de France label was a good idea? On a number of occasions from the mid-90s onwards (with various research projects I was involved in), I recommended the development of a “regional and collective” brand of some kind, which would enable the efforts of multiple producers within the region to be recognised under a single banner of quality. I thought this would be of particular interest to those working in the agri-food sector and for small businesses unable to invest in fully developing their own brands. As this type of company tends to produce goods directly

SUDDEFRANCE - 4 -

linked in some way to the land, it was easy to see how advantageous a collective regional brand would be. I can however assure you that the brand doesn’t solely pertain to these industries and that the Sud de France label can be found on an extensive range of products within a great number of retail outlets. In fact, I think it would be fair to say that a brand only truly exists once it is well known by both consumers and distributors, who are, after all, the ones putting the products on the shelves. Today, everything leads us to firmly believe that this is indeed the case for the Sud de France label.

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:25 Page5

What are the basic requirements in order for a brand such as this to survive? There are several fundamental economic principles that the brand must endeavour to maintain. The first is the essential task of developing brand recognition: consumers and distributors must know the brand and be in a position of wanting to choose that brand whenever the choice presents itself. Specialists define brand recognition as a particular label belonging to the “consumer’s consideration range”. A very well-known brand doesn’t experience any major difficulties when it comes to their products being displayed on the shelves. Consumers then come into contact more frequently with the product, thus recognise it, which then leads to them purchasing it. However, in addition to becoming widely-known, a brand must also clearly define a positive image and a sense of what the product is in the minds of consumers. We need to be aware of the fact that a strong, positive belief in the brand is essential, that it can live up to market expectations such as quality, practicality, reliability, flavour, a sense of pleasure or escapism, user-friendliness… In this way, the strength of a regional brand lies in its ability to be recognisably linked to a particular geographic zone, which in and of itself upholds certain values, such as authenticity, as is the case with the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Such values are then associated with the labelled product, which then increases in terms of market value. In conclusion, a brand has to be in a position of inciting consumer loyalty and of encouraging consumers to repurchase its products. And how do we know if a brand is “good”? Essentially, a brand can be deemed “good” if a producer is able to sell a labelled product at a higher price than the same product without the brand label. This is

what rewards the extraordinary efforts and risks that a producer is forced to take when developing a brand. Sales of produce that fall into this category, known as ‘premium pricing’ then allow the brand to invest into further development of its image, its renown… thus enabling it to enter into a virtuous circle of sustained economic success. To achieve this, premium pricing for each and every product has to be set at a higher level than the amount initially invested in brand development. Here, the interest lies in the fact that any amounts spent this way are less, due to there being a wide range of producers in the collective with an even wider range of products, which spreads costs. Contrary to popular belief, the market is able to sustain such an increase in prices, and are more than willing to pay the extra cost (consumers and distributors), because this brand delivers real added value in return. Is there a limit to the number or type of products that can be included under the brand name? This is what specialists refer to as a brand’s expansion capacity, its risk of dilution should the scope of products be extended too far, or beyond its area of expertise. On the one hand, the brand has a vested interest in allowing a sufficiently wide range of products to bear the label if it is to gain a high degree of operating leverage: costs involved in developing the brand are thus dispersed over a larger turnover and don’t cut into profit margins as substantially as they would otherwise do

so. On the other hand, a brand should not over-diversify as it risks losing any special characteristics it has succeeded in gaining, losing its appeal and sense of individuality. So, this means the whole array of products under the same brand has to possess some sort of common coherency and be compatible with the overall values championed by the brand. For example, with Sud de France, it must ask itself the question of whether or not it will remain within the agri-food sector or if expanding into other areas would be beneficial to the brand as a whole. It’s a real strategic conundrum. An increasing number of regions throughout France are creating their own labels. Is this a growing trend? Evidence suggests that this isn’t a trend, but a collective management tool, and is used in exactly the same way as a commercial trademark within the business world. In addition to the numerous virtues already proven, is the advantage that a collective brand functions in a dual sense. This means that with the knowledge that the label increases

added value in the short term, in the medium term, it will then be in a positionto boast significant market experience for those products carrying said label. It is these products that nourish the regional market, give it its lifeforce, thus further increasing the image and status of the region. This can gain powerful momentum if the brand, in its entirety, is managed in a coherent fashion. And so it is the products themselves which increase public awareness of their region of origin. Several examples illustrate this phenomenon, particularly within the wine sector, which has advanced significantly using this method of branding. In fact, the potential of collective regional labels appears to be largely under-exploited at present.

Planning your trip Sud de France Développement –Tourisme en LanguedocRoussillon (“South of France Development –Tourism in Languedoc-Roussillon”) 34000 Montpellier - France Tel.+ 33 (0)4 67 200 220 contact.tourisme@suddefrance-dvpt.com www.sunfrance.com

Aude DepartmentalTourism Committee Tel.+ 33 (0)4 68 11 66 00 - www.audetourisme.com Gard DepartmentalTourism Committee Tel.+ 33 (0)4 66 36 96 30 - www.tourismegard.com Hérault DepartmentalTourism Committee Tel.+ 33 (0)4 67 67 71 71 - www.herault-tourisme.com Lozère DepartmentalTourism Committee Tel.+ 33 (0)4 66 65 60 00 - www.lozere-tourisme.com Pyrénées-Orientales DepartmentalTourism Committee Tel.+ 33 (0)4 68 51 52 53 www.tourisme-pyreneesorientales.com Languedoc-RoussillonTourist Information Centres Abroad www.suddefrance-developpement.com

SUDDEFRANCE - 5 -

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:25 Page6

SPLENDOUR

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:25 Page7

Languedoc-Roussillon now boasts six sites that will remain forever etched in the memory of mankind. Joining these well-known places of interest, which were first listed by Unesco as world heritage sites 30 years ago - the Pont du Gard, the Canal du Midi, the Way of Saint James, the City of Carcassonne and more recently, the Vauban Fortresses of Villefranche-de-Conflent and Montlouis, along the Spanish border - are the magnificent landscapes of the Causses and the CĂŠvennes, which in 2011 gained this most eminent of titles. The landscape bestows upon visitors and inhabitants alike, a unique architectural heritage in a rare state of preservation, despite the trials and tribulations of its turbulent history. From Roman times through to the Middle Ages, the region suffered more than its fair share of religious wars and both Languedoc and Roussillon still bear the marks of those cities that would shape the world over the centuries to come. So many cornerstones of what was to become modern-day society are now listed by UNESCO as world heritage sites, and thus enshrined for eternity. For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.sunfrance.com/unesco

SUDDEFRANCE - 7 -

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:25 Page8

SPLENDOUR THE CAUSSES AND THE CÉVENNES

TheCausses and theCévennes, anareaofoutstanding universalvalue

The direct result of man’s relationship with the land, the Causses and the Cévennes, now recognised by Unesco as world heritage sites, are a superb fusion of wonderfully scenic vistas and cultural traditions.

hese vast lands cover 3,000 km2, unfurling over four departments, three of which fall within the Languedoc-Roussillon region: Lozère, Hérault and Gard, proudly standing between the gateway cities of Alès, Ganges, Lodève and Mende. The diverse range of landscapes are each as stunning as the next. The valleys of the Cévennes are uniformly adorned with chestnut groves, vineyards and mulberry trees. Mounts Aigoual and Lozère stand tall with their spiked and jagged granite ridges and unbounded views over swathes of forestry and the migratory herds of the grasslands. The Causses are vast limestone plateaus, scattered with rocky outcrops,

stretches of turf and tumultuous gorges, scarring the mountainside... An architectural covenant established between man and nature, the Causses and the Cévennes have succeeded in safeguarding this magnificent landscape for generations to come. The scenery is very much representative of the Mediterranean mountainous region, which is unfortunately in steady decline throughout Europe, along with the traditional agricultural-pastoral way of life - non-mechanical farming methods and cattle-breeding - that thrived upon it for so long. And it is precisely because this distinctive terrain was forged over generations of families, both past and present, developing systems of agriculture, forestry and grazing livestock, that in June, it SUDDEFRANCE - 8 -

was listed by Unesco as a world heritage site. A total of 231 communities form part of this listing, of which 86 are in Gard, 82 in Lozère and 28 in Hérault. The highlands of the Causses and their wide-open expanses of dry grasslands have, for so long, born the fruit of our ancestors’ labour and are still abundantly productive today, sheep breeding being the most advantageous sector. Despite the revolution in farming methods, with the decrease in the number of farmers (no more than 100 are presently active) and the increase in the size of holdings having meant that herding has seen a great many changes over the years, agro-pastoralism has remained close to its roots and continues to be practised in much the same way as it ever was.

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:26 Page9

A cultural, natural and environmental heritage Elsewhere, upon the high granite plains, cowherding/breeding is a prominent feature, whereas further down among the Cévennes shale-strewn valleys, goat rearing tends to be the more popular choice. The inherent value of these rich lands has resulted in the presence of a variety of farming organisations and methods dispersed throughout the Mediterranean region including agro-pastoralism, forestry, cattle herding and semi-migratory livestock breeding. Among the areas recognised by UNESCO, lie the Cévennes National Park and the Regional Nature Park of the Grands Causses, as well as exceptional sites of profound beauty : the Tarn gorges, an intricate series of rocky crevasses, the Circus of Navacelles (photo), an enormous meander chiselled into the ground, a canyon left abandoned by the River Vis...

But this region of international repute also entices visitors into exploring other paths, the roads less travelled, where they are invited to unearth yet more of the treasures that this magnificent collision between nature and generations upon generations of man has to offer... Isolated farms, small hamlets, vaulted barns – used for keeping sheep, cellars, the flatlands – used by shepherds for herding in the summertime, sheep-trails, cattle tracks, natural oases used for watering livestock, bridges over the rivers and streams… So many features are revealed, all of them demonstrating proof of the ever-present agro-pastoral system. Along the Cévennes valley slopes, the construction of stone-reinforced terraces divided up by dry-stone walling testifies to the necessity of expanding useable land for agricultural purposes. On the Mont Lozère, granite blocks engraved with the Maltese cross serve as a strong visual reminder of the erstwhile occupancy of these lands by the “Hospitaliers” (a military order) and the vast stretches of land they required for their animals. Causses ewes, Aubrac cows and Alpine goats can readily be seen strolling the lengths and breadths of the Cévennes valleys, along the Causses plateaus or the Aigoual peaks, another feature that has been so very much a part of this landscape for over three millennia.

The Causses and the Cévennes Tourist Map Spanning four departments, the Causses and the Cévennes have been distinguished by Unesco for their rich and diverse heritage and superb picturesque scenery. From the limestone plateaus of the Causses, separated by deep gorges and basins, interspersed with violently sharp peaks, to the plunging valleys of the Cévennes, erratically scattered with shale and, of course, the gigantic granite summits of Mounts Lozère and Aigoual. A new map, “Causses and Cévennes” has just been published with 332 sites of interest and the borders of the area, all clearly marked in an easy to read format. This map is available for free at all tourist information offices and a number of tourist attractions and sites throughout the area. www.caussesetcevennes.com

The Herding Slopes Mont Lozère and Mont Aigoual are among the last locations on earth where cattle migratory herding is still practised using traditional methods, tools, paths and trails. The land is scored with lines of dry-stone walling, some following the same route as ancient Roman pathways (on Mont Lozère for example), others have since been transformed into hiking trails (the GR 60 along the Grande Draille (“The Great Trail”) in Languedoc on Mont Lozère, or the GR 6 which follows a sheep trail from Pont-d’Hérault through to Espérou and Meyrueis). These sheep trails were used by shepherds when herding sheep from pasture to pasture. They mark the link routes between the valleys and the plains, which herds of sheep and cows were forced to leave during the spring months (usually at the end of May) for higher terrain, where they were left to graze the pastures until mid-October. Although the breeding methods of today have certainly overtaken traditional herding, and some farmers now choose to move their cattle using trucks, the ways of old have not entirely disappeared. Every year, some herds still make the long journey over the mountains (sometimes lasting over a week) and herding days, as in bygone eras, are seen and experienced as the perfect occasion to celebrate this tradition with festivals, and marches, with the animals themselves preened and adorned with decorations for the occasion. These festivals also allow shepherds to exhibit their know-how and experience in the field, giving shearing demonstrations, and showing spectators how sheep dogs are trained... Herding plays a vital role in maintaining the environment and heritage of the area. Preserving buildings specific to the tradition is an important part of this – shelters from the cold, watering holes, bridges... Particular attention is now being paid to conservationism, very much spurred on by the area’s recent inclusion on the Unesco list, which has significantly lent its support to the perpetuation of these rarely seen traditional farming methods. Herding Festival in Espérou (Gard) – 18th to 21st June. Information – Tel: 04 66 54 29 65. SUDDEFRANCE - 9 -

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:26 Page10

SPLENDOUR THE CANAL DU MIDI

CanalduMidi: ABoatman’s Paradise Throughout the summer, this masterpiece of engineering, constructed by Pierre-Paul Riquet, listed by Unesco as a world heritage site, is a veritable crowd pleaser.

New plane trees for the centuries to come In 1944, GI’s landed in Provence with their munitions boxes fabricated out of plane tree wood and that is when the fungus first arrived and the initial problems started. Ceratocystis platani is a fungus which has been attacking the plane trees along the Canal du Midi’s banks. The fungus causes a cankering of the wood and forcibly leads to any infected trees having to be chopped down. This is a major concern for the 42,000 plane trees bordering the canal. Since 2006, numerous cases of contamination have been reported in the area. In Trèbes, Aude, a plantation of 160 plane trees resistant to the parasite was successfully grown. The estimated costs of financing this project were estimated at 200 million euros. The state and local communities are expected to finance two-thirds of the project. A benefactor programme will have to be established to collect donations for the remaining third of the costs.

o you need to be a good sailor to try out the Canal du Midi adventure? The mirror of water beneath the plane trees, unwinding its curves between the Mediterranean Sea (Sète) and the Atlantic Ocean over 241 km, is paradise... for all. Barge owners living on the water all year round, tourists, hardened travellers, all aspire to a place on the canal listed as Unesco World Heritage in 1996. This quiet and peaceful holiday route is in full swing between April and October. In the summer, the English, Dutch and Russians come to claim their share of happiness, treading in the brilliant tracks of history. « Everyone knows Carcassonne and Montpellier. Quite simply, because in between, there’s the canal » jests Françoise Bousquet, a wine grower in Capestangen Minervois. From the banks, this “land-dweller” watches the constant parade of barges « up to three a minute at the peak of summer ». SUDDEFRANCE - 10 -

328 structures over 241 km Pierre-Paul Riquet’s masterpiece, built in 1666 and 1681 to link the river Garonne to the Mediterranean Sea (hence its initial name : “canal of the two Seas”), hides within its meanders some 328 civil engineering structures: tunnels, locks, spillways*, bridges, etc. The challenge, at that time, was to bring water from the Montagne Noire to Nauouze, the highest point along the route. Pierre-Paul Riquet’s engineering genius gave rise, after 14 years of unremitting work (a vocation for the builder who poured his entire life and fortune into the project), to this route dotted with civil engineering structures that defy the laws of physics and are an ode to beauty. The masterpieces, scattered throughout, parade along the water, and even include a few “architectural follies” such as the round lock in Agde, the Gailhousty spillway on the “canal de la Robine”, or the Malpas

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:26 Page11

tunnel, forging the connection with Béziers.The Languedoc section, setting off from Castelnaudary, runs through to the Thau Laguna via Marseillette, Homps, and the small port of Colombiers and Portiragnes. After Somail, you may also follow the Narbonne link through the “canal de la Robine”: in an ever wilder setting, lined with umbrella pines. As the canal unrolls its stately pace throughout, the towpaths also afford a picturesque alternative : formerly used by horses, they alternately oblige you to cross to the right bank of the canal or to join the left bank. This is another way of living life along the canal, always busy despite the apparent peace and quiet. All along the way you’ll find villages, wine cellars open for tasting, open air cafés where people gather to enjoy the summer evenings before bedtime. * Spillway: a structure to drain surplus water from the canal.

A “staircase lock” in Béziers The Fonsérannes locks are like magnificent lifts that seem to descend towards Béziers (Hérault)... whilst in fact, they go up! From the hill to the river Orb, there is a 25 metre difference in ground level. A mountain of water, but the genius of 17th century civil engineering triumphed : the locks are 9 sluice gates that open up one after the other, 8 locks (ovoid shaped chambers) over a length of around 315 metres, lined on the outside by fourteen flights of stairs. This is the triumphant entrance that PierrePaul Riquet offers his native town of Béziers. The Fonsérannes locks draw 320,000 visitors each year to the water staircase. The passage through the locks with their alternate emptying and filling is always an impressive sight. It is, moreover, the third most visited sight in Languedoc-Roussillon, just after the Pont du Gard and the city of Carcassonne. Car park, tourist information and refreshment area on site. SUDDEFRANCE - 11 -

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:26 Page12

SPLENDOUR THE CANAL DU MIDI

DoubleDelight 2

time! Suspend your flight!» wrote the poet, Lamartine. And this is exactly what those fortunate people navigating along the region’s canals must think. At a maximum speed of 8 km an hour, life takes on a different perspective. Cruising along the canal du Midi is one of those rarest of sensory pleasures. Along the Languedoc section of the canal from Castelnaudary onwards, the incredible 7 hectare basin is one of Pierre-Paul Riquet’s most outstanding pieces of architectural engineering. The route gently carries its boatmen and passengers onwards, with the lock-free section of the waterway between Argens and Béziers standing out as a particularly enjoyable part of the trip. In Agde, the Canal du Midi reaches Sète via Thau Lake, a land-locked body of water measuring 7,500 hectares and where shellfish cultivation is a main industry. After Sète, we leave the canal listed by Unesco. However, this doesn’t mean the adventure is over, as this is where the Rhône to Sète canal picks up, the logical extension to Riquet’s masterpiece. It was towards the end of the 17th century that construction initially began on the new engineering works. It started at the then recently built port of Sète with its deep harbour waters, before continuing through a series of lakes (hence its being known as the “Canal of Lakes”), and then on to Mauguio, not far from Montpellier, where construction was temporarily suspended until 1789, when engineers found themselves in the position of being able to link the canal to

the port at Saint-Gilles. It wasn’t until as late as 1811 that the canal finally joined the waters of the Rhône in Beaucaire. Renamed the ’Rhone-Sète Canal’, it crosses numerous lakes, flows past the remnants of the Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone church and joins the Grau-du-Roi Port-Camargue, where it circumnavigates the ancient walls of the city of Aigues-Mortes. From there, it gently makes its way as far Saint-Gilles – with only a single lock on this section of the canal –, where it finds itself in excellent company – the flora and fauna among the reeds, rice plants, pink flamingos and the region’s famous bulls. It is from here than the canal branches off to the Rhône, 29 km away at the port of Beaucaire (photo) where it flows into the river, opening out into a network of canals, which carry the water back up to the North of Europe. From Sète the route covers a total distance of 101 kilometres.

SUDDEFRANCE - 12 -

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:26 Page13

SPLENDOUR A 24 HOUR SIGHTSEEING TOUR - THE ROMAN

6 • 5• 3 •

2 •

4•

Learn to make amphorae

Take a closer look at the port of Montpellier

On the very same spot that a Gallo-Roman pottery once stood is the Amphora Museum, inaugurated in 1992. This site, which its varied selection of programmes throughout the summer, allows visitors to discover the secrets behind a 2000 year-old tradition of pottery making, kilning and trading. Located in Sallèles-d’Aude, it plays host to 14 fullyfunctioning kilns and produces tiles, bricks and more notably, amphorae, which were used to transport Gallic wine. Amphoralis, Sallèles-d’Aude: 04 68 46 89 48. www.sallelesdaude.fr

It is in Lattes, on the outskirts of the region’s capital, that the ruins of a former lagoon town were painstakingly excavated more than 40 years ago. At the end of the 6th century BC, man settled in the estuarine area between valley and sea in Lez and established a port town, Lattara, which was inhabited up until the Roman era. The site boasts its own archaeology museum and invites tourists to take a closer look at this ancient port and the civilisations that once breathed life into it. Lattara-Musée Henri Prades, 390, avenue de Pérols in Lattes: 04 67 99 77 20. www.museearcheo.montpellier-agglo.com

Venture beyond the Vidourle valley and walk the Domitian Way

• 1

The Spirit of Rome in Narbonne Founded in 118 BC, “Narbo Martius” was the first colony created by the Romans outside of Italy. With its advantageous location, situated on a great crossroads, the town was a formidable success, and by the end of the 7th centuryit had become the capital city of the Visigoths. To this day, all that remains of this rich history are ruins. Among them is the flagstone portion of the Domitian Way, intersecting the Languedoc-Roussillon region, which served as a major road network in ancient Roman times. An absolute must-see is the Archaeology Museum which houses an impressive collection of frescoes. The much-anticipated opening of the Roman Museum is expected in 2016. The Archaeology Museum in Narbonne, Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville: 04 68 90 30 54. www.mairie-narbonne.fr

Discover the life of a Patrician in Loupian

After a stop-off in Nissan-lez-Ensérune to see the “oppidum”, a fortified hillside camp, where preRoman ruins can still be seen to this day, head for Loupian and its “villa-musée” (“villa museum”). Close to the Domitian Way, it was at first no more than a simple group of small-holdings, built upon the slopes of the dales, overlooking the Thau Lake, but rapidly prospered. During the early Roman Empire, the site became a Patrician’s residence, equipped with a bath house, and vineyard– winemaking was a prosperous activity for the residents of the villa. Today, this villa has been transformed into a museum where we can learn more about their agricultural methods and see well-preserved polychrome mosaics, unearthed at the site itself. Oppidum d’Ensérune: 04 67 37 01 23. www.oppidumdenserune.com Gallo-Roman villa in Loupian: 04 67 18 68 18. www.ccnbt.fr SUDDEFRANCE - 13 -

At the height of the Roman Empire, Ambrussum acted as a stop-over point for those travellers walking the length of the Domitian Way. Although the site was inhabited during the Neolithic era, it was during the GalloRoman period that it was transformed into a fortified city surrounded by ramparts and watch towers. Of the eleven 5 arches along the Ambroix bridge, but one has survived, yet from it, we can glean how majestic the bridge must once have been. The emotion remains the same as you walk upon the 2000 year-old flagstones of the Domitian Way, once used by tradesmen and Roman legions all that time ago. Tourists are invited to participate in a “Roman walk”, taking approximately 90 minutes and to browse inside the on-site museum. Archaeological site and the Ambrussum Museum in Villetelle: 04 67 02 22 33. www.ambrussum.fr

Lose yourselves in Little Rome The main seat of the civitas (a community of citizens), a large settlement whose main function was administrative, Nîmes is the jewel in the crown of the Gallo-Roman Empire. The Tour Magne (“Magne Tower”), the Porte d’Auguste (“Augustus’ Gate”) and the Temple de Diane (“Temple of Diana”) are among the superb remnants of this empire. However, the Maison Carrée temple and arenas are some of the best conserved ruins in the world and are of a rare, spectacular beauty, serving as a reminder of what it must have been like to be a spectator in the time of the gladiators. The archaeology museum is bursting at the seams with various Latin inscriptions and a wide range of items from Roman daily life. Archaeology Museum in Nîmes: 04 66 76 74 80. www.nimes.fr

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:26 Page14

SUDDEFRANCE - 14 -

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:26 Page15

SPLENDOUR PONT DU GARD

ThePont duGard, astone flagshipin thegarrigue Built in around 50 years AD, the Pont du Gard is the centrepiece of a 50 km long aqueduct, supplying Nimes. And the majestic symbol of the genius of mankind.

or two thousand years this stone sentinel has been soaring over the river Gardon, close to the boundaries of the Gard department, not far from Nimes and Avignon. A symbol of the genius of Roman architecture, the Pont du Gard is but a tiny link of a structure stretching over 50 kilometres, connecting the sources of the river Eure, near Uzes, to Nimes which, in the first century AD, was one of the largest Gallo-Roman settlements. The aqueduct was built to provide the city with new possibilities, to create fountains and Roman baths and enhance its prestige within the Roman empire. The bridge remains the jewel of the structure with its 64 arches spread over three levels, rising to the height of 48.77metres above the river and spanning 490 metres. This makes the Pont du Gard the highest aqueduct bridge of the Roman era. A height commanded by the slope and required to exert pressure on the water within the structure, even though the gradient is not regular throughout. At the outcome, the Romans succeeded in building a structure weighing several million tonnes (the bridge alone is an estimated 50,000 tonnes) with a slope of less than 25 centimetres per kilometre... But in fact,

this glorious edifice operated fully for barely 140 years. It began deteriorating as from the 3rd century and the aqueduct was permanently abandoned and partially dismantled for its stone in the 6th century. If the bridge was not demolished, to the contrary of the rest of the structure, it is because the water carrying viaduct was rapidly used as a crossing bridge, even though the contempt of time and mankind threatened its existence on several occasions. It was first repaired in the 1700s, to avoid its imminent ruin. The first restoration campaigns began in 1745 and as from 1840, the bridge figured on the list of major monuments. Listed as World Heritage by Unesco in 1985, the Pont du Gard has been entirely redeveloped over the past decade, to become the jewel within a setting of 165 hectares with areas of special interest, the museum of the bridge and aqueduct, a games library and arboretum in the garrigue, hosting an increasing number of events (concerts, fireworks...). Over one million people yearly pace the bridge, the most visited antique monument in France. Site du Pont du Gard, at Vers-Pont-du-Gard. Tel. 0 820 903 330. www.Pontdugard.fr

Let there be light During major renovation works towards the end of the 1990s, the viaduct was fitted with a stateof-the-art lighting system designed by James Turrell, which was unfortunately destroyed by flooding in 2002. However, in 2009, the Pont du Gard’s magical lights were brought back to life with the installation of 211 LED floodlights fitted along three levels of this structural masterpiece. The lights are turned on throughout the summer months and make for a truly stupendous show. Even more dazzling, the famous firework display by pyro-technicians, Groupe F – the same team who provided the show at the Eiffel tower to celebrate the millennium, – which takes place in June – a breath-taking extravaganza of sound, light and fireworks. SUDDEFRANCE - 15 -

A work of art on the move Over the last 20 centuries, the Pont du Gard has been spared the vicissitudes of both the weather and mankind. The aqueduct was dismantled at the beginning of the 7th century and owes its survival to the fact that it was transformed into a bridge. In fact, to facilitate the crossing of the Gard river, which stood between Uzès and Beaucaire where a very famous fair took place, ramps were built along its access points for boats, and a wide path was constructed along the top of the aqueduct. This path measured 1.8 metres in width and was achieved by simply cutting from the stacks along the second level of arches to allow carriages and carts to pass over it! The materials they removed to do this work were not replaced until 1698.Although the structure was able to withstand the pressure put on it by rapidly flowing high waters, there was, and still is, another danger that threatens the bridge to this day: the heat. Due to the effects of the sun, the stone that makes up this 50,000 ton engineering marvel regularly contracts and expands along its south-west façade. The other side lies predominantly in the shade and is less exposed to this phenomenon, meaning the two sides can differ in size by up to 5mm a day. The result of this is that the bridge has slightly subsided and has moved 80 cm over the last 2000 years.

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:27 Page16

SPLENDOUR THE WAY OF SAINT JAMES

In thefootsteps of thepilgrims The Way of Saint James has been attracting pilgrims for over a thousand years. The first reason is most probably spiritual conviction, but the magnificence of the route itself certainly comes a close second. There are four historic trails leading to the relics of Saint James in Spain and two of them cross the Languedoc-Roussillon region: The Arles Way and the Way of Puy in Puy-en-Velay.

he strength and beauty of these spectacular routes, with a host of monuments and unique tourist sites marking the way were surely factors in the decision made by Unesco to add the Way of Saint James to its list of world heritage sites in 1998. In 813 the tomb of Saint James the Greater was thought to have been unearthed in Santiago de Compostela and ever since, these pathways have seen a steady stream of pilgrims making the journey on foot to see histomb. Since the 12th century, the “Codex Calixtinus”, written by Aimery Picaud, has provided a wealth of advice for pil-

grims from all over Europe taking the routes that lead to these relics. The Via Podiensis (“Way of Puy”) lies between Puy-en-Velay and Roncevaux and the Via Tolosana also crosses Languedoc-Roussillon from East to West and is counted among the four main routes. The Via Podiensis is the oldest of the routes leading to Compostela. Inaugurated in 951 by Bishop Godescalc, it extends over no fewer than 1,530 kilometres and starts at Puy-en-Velay, crossing the magnificent heights of Gévaudan in Lozère, today labelled the GR 65. We enter Lozère via AumontAubrac. It is most probably upon this section of the route that the stunning vistas are SUDDEFRANCE - 16 -

The ViaTolosana,a Roman work of art The Via Tolosana, otherwise known as the Arles Way, was travelled by pilgrims whose journeys started in Central Europe, Provence and the Apennine Peninsula. Sharing a section of the route with the Roman Domitian Way, this southbound journey passes through Gard and the highland towns of Hérault to link up with Toulouse. The first stage in Languedoc-Roussillon, marked on maps as GR 653, starts out from the celebrated abbey of Saint-Gilles, a Roman work of art, reputed for its intricately sculpted tympanum, dating back to the 12th century and depicting scenes from both the New and Old Testaments. The Way of Saint James spans the surrounding agricultural lands within Petite Camargue and Montpellier. In the city of Montpeller itself, a pedestrian pathway fixed to the ground with bronze studding follows a part of the original pilgrimage route. The path leads to the famous Pont du Diable (“Devil’s Bridge”) (photo), the oldest Roman bridge in France built by monks from the neighbouringcommunities, including the abbey of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, another essential stop-over point. From here the path climbs up towards Lodève and then Arboras, built on the foothills of Larzac, and finally, the priory at Saint-Michel de Grandmont. Beyond this, the Way of Saint James leaves the Languedoc-Roussillon region and makes its way to Lauragais and the plains of Toulouse.

matched only by the feeling of solitude from which the route derives its image and profound sense of spirituality. There are pastures as far as the eye can see, over which, in the summer months, Aubrac cows peacefully graze. In winter, the same scenery succumbs to an almost tragic beauty as nature and the landscapes appear to mourn the end of summer. Between Nasbinals and Saint-Chélyd’Aubrac, the route soars to 1,368 metres, one of the highest points along the route. And here, yet more astounding beauty. This point is considered a historic landmark and is symbolic of the world heritage that the the Way of Saint James represents.

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:27 Page17

SPLENDOUR THE VAUBIAN FORTRESSES

The“ironbelt” of thePyrenees Villefranche-de-Conflent, listed as Unesco World Heritage, is also one of the 14 “Forts Vauban” listed sites.

illefranche (Pyrénées-Orientales) is renowned for its pink marble facing and, above all, for its surrounding fortifications to which it owes its name Villefranche, meaning “well-guarded”. The medieval city was founded in 1092 by the count of Cerdagne, to protect the surrounding valleys from invasion. The French conquered the town in 1654, obliging the Spanish to retreat. The fortifications were subsequently dismantled by the subjects of the king of France. Then, in 1669, the ramparts were built once again according to plans drawn up by certain Marquis de Vauban. The latter was appointed Marshal of France by Louis XIV for having given France an “Iron belt”, an allegory of the multiple fortifications, including Villefranche, designed by the military architect. As visitors stroll along its paved streets, they can still make out the remains of the town as it was in the Middle Ages. “La tour du Diable”, near the church, originally dates back to the medieval period as do “la porte du

Roussillon” and the “la porte de France”. The fortifications and the famous Fort Libéria both date back to the Vauban period. Created by the architect in 1681, the fort lies outside the city, set into the mountainside. It looks out over the town to which it is connected by an underground passageway, commonly named the “one thousand step” stairway. In fact, there are only 734 steps... But nothing beats the charm of legends. www.villefranchedeconflent.com www.mont-louis.net

The case of the poisoners If Fort Libéria has left such a strong imprint in the history of France, it is also because its dungeons have seen some famous prisoners. In the middle of the 17th century, the court of Louis XIV was shaken by a series of criminal poisonings. A certain Marie-Madeleine Dreux d'Aubray was involved in the case. At the time, whilst married to Antoine Gobelin, Marquis de Brinvilliers, she fell for a charming cavalry officer. The father of the young woman was outraged and used some highly positioned connections to have the lover thrown into jail, thus snuffing out the scandal. The Marquise’s determination was however sorely underestimated. Having learnt the art of poisoning from one of her lover’s cell mates, the Marquise de Brinvilliers killed her father and two brothers with a good dose of arsenic... She was also accused of other murders and was executed in 1676. Following her arrest, several women were accused of complicity. Amongst the presumed criminals was Anne Guesdon, the Marquise de Brinvilliers’ first chamber maid, who died after 36 years in captivity. Also La Chapelain, a handy woman and matchmaker who spent 43 years behind the walls. SUDDEFRANCE - 17 -

Mont-Louis, the stronghold of Roussillon When France won Roussillon back from Spanish power in 1659 and signed the Pyrenees treaty that ended the war, Vauban, the military architect, was asked to find the new Conflent stronghold. After much investigation, this was the site chosen, in Mont-Louis (Pyrénées-Orientales), at the meeting point of the Conflent, Capcir and Cerdagne. Work began in 1679. From the citadel, the soldiers could keep an eye on their rival’s stronghold, Puigcerdá, in Spanish territory. Beneath the citadel lies the civil section which was only inhabited a few decades later. Mont-Louis now counts some 300 inhabitants. Perched at an altitude of 1,600 metres, it is considered to be the highest fortified town in France. Its fortifications are listed as Unesco World Heritage and still house one of the last military units to occupy a site designed by Vauban : “le Centre National d'entraînement Commando” toughens up 4,000 trainees in this place each year.

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:27 Page18

SPLENDOUR CARCASSONNE

TheCityofCarcassonne, amedievaljewelat thefoot oftheBlackMountain An “oppidum” (a fortified hillside camp) in ancient times, Carcassonne became a fortress from the 11th century onwards.

s they enter through the main gate, visitors are literally caught up in the maze of paved lanes. The City is known for its famous and impressive illumination on the evening of the 14th of July. It is also famous for its music festival. But we sometimes forget the history of the monument, listed as World Heritage by Unesco in 1997. Yet over 3 million people tread its ground each year. The children, bearing harmless swords with undetermined coats of arm, prove that the spirit of the place remains fascinating. At each turn of the road, if we carefully look at certain buildings, we can make out the traces of dungeons, oubliettes or loopholes in memory of its warrior past. However, the City of Carcassonne is not an open air museum. A hundred or so people still live in its dwellings, protected against any assault by the 3 kilometre long walls and 52 towers.

A blessed basilica and a castle There’s no question of merely strolling the lanes and enjoying the famous home cooked cassoulet that helped to bring fame to the city. As the Saint-Nazaire basilica, whose stones were blessed by Pope Urbain II in 1096, has everything it takes to fascinate the curious beginning with its stained glass windows. Its magnificent “Tree of Jesse”, that adorns the Virgin’s chapel in the northern wings of the basilica, probably dates back to the end of the 13th century. It represents an allegory of the Christian people, depicted by the ancestors of Jesus Christ. We can also admire the organ dating back to the 17th century, the roman archways above the nave, or the supposed tomb of Simon de Montfort, a key figure of the crusade against the inhabitants of Albi. Another essential visit: the castle founded by the Trencavel dynasty in 1150. The building served as a stately home. Then, when the city was taken by the crusaders, the seneschals of the King of France turned it into a true fortress within the fortress. SUDDEFRANCE - 18 -

Free entrance to the City of Carcassonne. All year round. The Château comtal is open every day from 10 am to 6:30 pm. Price: 8.50 € for adults, free for the under 26. Tel. 00 33 (0)4 68 11 70 70 www.carcassonne.culture.fr The Saint-Nazaire basilica is also open all year round. It is located on the place de l'Église, in the City. From 9am to 11:45am and from 1:45pm to 6pm on weekdays. From 9am to10: 45am and from 2pm to 5pm on Sundays. Free entrance. The Musée de l'école is also open to the public from 10am to 7pm, at 3, rue du Plô. 3.50 €. Free for children under 12. And the Musée Mémoires du moyen âge, near the porte Narbonnaise, outside the City. Open daily from10am to 7pm. Prices: 5 € for adults, 3 € for children. And the Centre culturel de la mémoire combattante,at 102, rue Trivalle. Open Monday to Friday from 9am to 12pm and from 2pm to 6pm. Free entrance.

04-19 SPLENDEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:27 Page19

Restoration or treason?

Today, the castle serves as a lapidary museum and houses a large collection of statues, sarcophaguses and objects typical of the Gallo-Roman and medieval periods.

1,000 years of history and conquests This popular tourist site, overlooking the valley Aude, finds its origins in the GalloRoman era. It was in around the 1st century BC that Carcassonne began to take on the substance of a small town. At that time, it was a small oppidum, a sort of refuge, nestled in a safe place on the top of a hill. It developed thanks to its ideal situation. Carcassonne is indeed right in the middle of a strategic road linking Lauragais, Corbières or, yet again, the Atlantic ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. The City’s many assets, over the centuries, captured the interest of invaders from many different shores. Beginning with the Wisigoths who seized the

ramparts in the 5th century. Then came the turn of the Saracens to claim the city walls. In 1082, Carcassonne became the property of the Trencavel family. But that dynasty was not to last long either. Two centuries down the line, the famous crusaders took hold of it and built the second wall, giving the City its current aspect. In the 18th century, it was abandoned, as was the case for many monuments dating back to the Middle Ages. Its houses and walls fell into disrepair. It was only towards the middle of the 19th century that the restoration works undertaken by a certain Eugène Violletle-Duc rescued the old stones doomed to certain death. Nowadays, the City of Carcassonne draws many a crowd... far more well-intentioned. No invaders on the horizon. Just visitors looking for paving stones, towers and vestiges, scattered over the thousand years of history that forged the City as it stands today.

« I consider it a breach of trust when mankind, under the pretext of restoring a city, disﬁgures it and distorts it to such an extent » - These outspoken remarks were uttered by Baron François de Guilhermy, who in 1912 heavily criticised half a century’s worth of work done on this city, which had hitherto lay in ruins. The work started in 1857 and was carried out by Viollet-le-Duc. At the time conflict and controversy raged around the architect’s work. In addition to having destroyed the romanticism of the original ruins, he stands accused of having not remained true to the crenulations along the rampart, and particularly of having adorned every single one of the watchtowers with slate, in a region more commonly known for its use of tiles. While more recent renovation projects have brought about slight changes to his style, it remains the case that this city was saved by Viollet-le-Duc, even if he is considered to have taken an idealised view of the fortress. As an interesting aside, Walt Disney drew inspiration from the fortress in his adaptation of the fairy tale, Sleeping Beauty’.

A life size film set The City ramparts are much favoured by film makers and have been used as a set since the dawn of the 7th art. Proof is the number of film posters that it boasts. In 1928, Jean Renoir chose the setting for part of his film “Un tournoi dans la Cité”. “La merveilleuse vie de Jeanne d'Arc” also includes some battle scenes filmed in Carcassonne by Marco de Gastyne, in 1929. In that particular case it was used to re-enact the siege of Orleans… It also reappeared in “Le Miracle des Loups”, which came out in 1961, with JeanLouis Barrault, Jean Marais and Roger Hanin. And in “Le corniaud” with Bourvil and Louis de Funès. More recently, in 1991, certain scenes of “Robin Hood”, with Kevin Costner, were filmed there. Jean Reno, Christian Clavier and Valérie Lemercier gathered there for the shooting of “Les visiteurs”, a successful film by Jean-Marie Poiré. As is often the case, it is not in Carcassonne itself in which film makers are interested. But this confirmed actress thoroughly enjoys flirting with the camera, or even being a key figure of intrigues and books such as “Labyrinth”, the medieval thriller by Kate Mosse. SUDDEFRANCE - 19 -

A city of fire For more than a century – the first bonfires were set alight in 1898 for the festivals of Gascogne and Languedoc – every year, the most magnificent light display takes place in the mediaeval city of Carcassonne, illuminating its majesty. On the 14th July, to celebrate Bastille Day from 10.30 p.m. more than 400,000 spectators witness, their mouths agape, the stunning green, red and yellow firework display with some 20,000 fireworks bursting, shimmering and flickering over the city for over 20 minutes. This show, in the most unique of settings, is certainly not to be missed!

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:44 Page20

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:44 Page21

AROMAS

From the Cévennes to Corbières, from Aubrac to the Black Mountain and from Camargue to the Côte Vermeille, Languedoc and Roussillon blur the boundaries between land and sky, sea and mountains. Expect the unexpected, even in places you might take to be similar: both wild Collioure and Aigues-Mortes in the Camargue may well share the Mediterranean but there’s a world of difference between them. Not to mention the contrast between proud and elegant Uzès and Minerve with its Cathar past! From impetuous Montpellier to Roman Narbonne, from Catalan Perpignan to defiant Béziers and from rebellious Nîmes to discreet Mende - the watchword is variety. This is a region of a thousand and one subtly different landscapes, atmospheres and aromas.

SUDDEFRANCE - 21 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:44 Page22

MEDITERRANEAN AROMAS

AROMAS MEDITERRANEAN

Kingdom of the Sands

he coastline of the department of Gard may be short - 17 kilometres - compared to Hérault or the Eastern Pyrenees but it is no less majestic, thanks to this natural beach surrounded by dunes and parasol pines: Espiguette. One of the most beautiful natural areas in the region it stretches across almost eleven kilometres, with several kilometres of unspoilt nature. A prize spot in the summer, yet one so vast that you can virtually find yourself alone in the world. From Grau-du-Roi to the western bank of the “Little Rhône” river, it is the realm of the Petite Camargue, a marshland area dotted with salt ponds. Austere in appearance, this preserved region has to be earned and is not easy to get to. For thousands of years, men have struggled to channel the often tempestuous waters of the Rhône and the incessant wind that devours the landscape. Reeds and rice paddies extend as far as the eye can see. Across 20,000 hectares, canals meander through the plains where Camargue horses and bulls graze. The land of flamingos, mallards and grey heron, the Petite Camargue enjoys an extraordinary, unique ecosystem, jealously guarded by the men who live there, whether bull herders, reed cutters, fishermen or rice growers. Here time seems to to be suspended and men still practise ancestral crafts. This little, out of the way corner proudly and passionately continues to exist outside time. * Sagneurs cut and gather reeds, mostly used for covering roofs.

For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.sunfrance.com/mediterranee

SUDDEFRANCE - 22 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:44 Page23

AROMAS AIGUES-MORTES - LE GRAU-DU-ROI

The fortress town of Aigues-Mortes (Gard) has retained a wild charm. Built by St Louis, the mediaeval salt water city remains a highlight.

Aigues-Mortes, theRoyalFortress

n this place, more than anywhere else, mankind has learnt to tame the vagaries of nature. The story of this city was written by fishermen and salt workers and it remains defiant to this day with its towers and ramparts - set in its mysteriously selected location in the untameable Camargue. Why here? The choice was dictated by the whims of a bygone era, a period of trade, wars and crusades, a time when history was being made. At the beginning of

The oldest salt marsh in the Mediterranean Twixt salt and sea, the oldest salt marsh in the Mediterranean stretches out beneath AiguesMortes, forming part of the town’s economic landscape - the town’s role as a provider of salt stretches back to Antiquity. Four hundred years ago, the 15 or so existing small salt marshes were united at the initiative of a Montpellier merchant, creating the Mediterranean Salt Marsh company.The very location of the salt marshes is a reminder that the Camargue is France’s most important salt production centre. Environmentally friendly ahead of its time, the company worked in a protected natural environment deep in the Camargue, drawing its energy from the surrounding elements. In summer, the unrefined salt gives the marshes a pinkish hue. The salt culture plays a part in keeping the region humid and rich in biodiversity. The site can be visited in a miniature train, or by 4x4. Salins du Midi, Aigues-Mortes. Tel. 04 66 73 40 24

SUDDEFRANCE - 23 -

the 13th century, it was chosen as a gateway to the Mediterranean by Louis IX, who was to become St Louis. While Provence was still part of the German empire and Roussillon belonged to the Kings of Aragon, it was ceded in exchange for the lands of the Sommières. The so-called city of dead waters, then situated on the banks of an immense lagoon, is linked to the sea through estuaries and the westernmost tributaries of the Rhône via its extensive marshes. Louis IX built a dyked roadway, the only overland route between Aigues-Mortes and the mainland, with the Tour Carbonnière as its ultimate defence. He joined the 7th Crusade in 1248 then returned one last time just before his death to Aigues-Mortes in 1270, during the 8th Crusade. Aigues-Mortes was to become a key trading post with the countries of the Levant. The Holy King built the Tour de Constance, for a long time the city’s only defence - in order to protect the port and city. It served as a prison during the wars of religion for prisoners from Nîmes, including Camisard leader Abraham Mazel, who managed to escape in 1705, then several women including Marie Durand, who refused to renounce her faith and was imprisoned there for 38 years.The Gothic church of Notre-Dame-des-Sablons, thus

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:45 Page24

AROMAS AIGUES-MORTES - LE GRAU-DU-ROI

The heart of the Petite Camargue

named because of the sandy marshes surrounding the town, is another of the town’s ancient monuments. The discerning observer wilrecognise the antique glasswork of contemporary artists Claude Viallat and Bernard Dhonneur, the mouth-blown glass and plastic approach culminating in two lead-free stained-glass windows. Also worth visiting are the respective Chapels of the White Penitents and Grey Penitents, the latter containing listed frescoes by Xavier Sigalon and the works of August Glaize tracing

the life cycle of the Virgin. Meanwhile, the ramparts encircling the town extend over 1,634 metres. However, Aigues-Mortes’ port, equally crowned in historic glory, should not be forgotten. Wherever you roam, a stroll from one art gallery to another through this town with its artists and chefs galore is both a visual and a literal feast. www.sunfrance.com/aiguesmortes www.ot-aiguesmortes.fr

The marshlands of Camargue and Petite Camargue form a timeless expanse of open space, where nature is king and its ancestral traditions are culturally unique. Situated between Petit Rhône and the lake at Mauguio, the Petite Camargue extends over the department of Gard, with the towns of Saint-Gilles and Aigues-Mortes marking out the horizon. Here, the Camargue bull reigns supreme, a horned, rustic beast, weighing in at around 400 kilos, at home only when roaming the vast wilderness. The bulls are raised in herds and belong to numerous agricultural holdings which populate the land. Many of these farms organise “ferrades”, a popular festive tradition where the animals are selected and the occasion is celebrated with a symbolic dish, “La Gardianne de Taureau” (“The Keeper of the Bulls”). Any villages in the area wishing to remain true their “Camargue” origins hold a ‘running of the bulls’ event.The season lasts from March to November and is a time of rich folk traditions and festivals.

Water,water everywhere in Grau-du-Roi Set in a watery landscape, Grau-du-Roi (Gard) revels in a popular atmosphere. The inhabitants of this royal port founded by St Louis rejoice in the amusing names of Graulens and Graulennes, spoken in a singsong accent to boot. Around the former channel with its passageway (or grau) linking the sea to the dry port of Aigues-Mortes, the city has carved out a double identity, as a high-class seaside town (it’s Europe’s biggest yachting resort, founded in 1968 as part of the Plan Racine) and a popular tourist destination. The locality, founded by Italian immigrants in the 19th century, grew rich over time with the arrival of a community of fishermen and farmers from all over the region. But the village’s destiny took a new turn with the development of balneotherapy in the 19th century : doctors sang the praises of the sea air and salt baths, convalescents flocked in and the town was transformed. Thanks to its port, Grau-du-Roi remains a cultural melting point all year round. The atmosphere is at its liveliest when the fishermen return home; it all happens along the canal, with its constant to-ing and fro-ing of trawlers. These maritime traditions have also given rise to a number colourful festivals in the area throughout the year, such as the sailors’ festival in May, the Vogua mostra (rowing and Mediterranean cultural festival) and the Feast of St Peter in June. Each year on these popular religious feast days, fishermen throng around their patron saint, remembering those lost at sea. Further into the town, the various mansions serve as a reminder of the spa’s early days : curious visitors flock to the so-called Dauphin’s house, opposite the church, typical of architecture at the turn of the 20th century, or the Parry Villa on the right bank. But life on the left bank in Grau extends well beyond the town centre, out towards the Palais de la Mer district, then on to Port-Camargue. This is the resort of choice for bathers from Nîmes, the Cévennes and nearby Vaucluse - a place of never-ending pleasure, enjoying the sun among the shops and restaurants, or on the fine sandy beaches nearby. At Grau-du-Roi, paradise is wherever you look : just reach out and touch it. www.sunfrance.com/legrauduroi - www.vacances-en-camargue.com SUDDEFRANCE - 24 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:45 Page25

THE ŒNO CIRCUIT

A CYCLING TOUR BETWEEN LAND AND SEA THROUGH PETITE CAMARGUE Petite Camargue, an astonishing 40,000 hectares of land and water, fauna and flora and a vineyard, the Costières de Nîmes, which gently extends from the south-east of Nîmes to the Rhône. The best way to navigate the vineyards, lakes and farmhouses… get on your bike. What a great idea!

30 - GARD

• •

•

2 3

•

Camargue. Come and savour their often prize-winning wines in their cellar, including their rosé, “Expression 2011”. As an additional bonus, they are open seven days a week !

Château Beaubois, on the road to Franquevaux Tel. 04 66 73 30 59. www.chateau-beaubois.com

Contemplative delights at the Ancien Monastère (“Old Monastery”) In the beautifully preserved village of Franquevaux are found the remnants of one of Camargue’s first “mediaeval salt abbeys” and the restaurant, “l’Ancien Monastère” (“Old Monastery”), situated on the premises of a former café-grocer’s shop. With a warm interior and sheltered terrace, you are invited to relax to the sound of crickets chirping. Their young chef prepares traditional local cuisine to a very high standard.

Wine-tasting in authentic farmhouses, Gallician

Aperitifs in Franquevaux It’s time for an aperitif, so why not head down to the Château Beaubois? This estate is managed by two youngsters, Fanny and her brother François Boyer, who have brought a touch of modernity to the label. Their vineyard, now in its third year of AB conversion, dominates the lake lands of Petite

For nature lovers

Open from Tuesday to Saturday, 9.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m. Free Entry. Guide books (€ 1.50 - € 3.50) Centre du Scamandre, on the road from Iscles to Gallician. Tel. 04 66 73 52 05. www.camarguegardoise.com

L’Ancien Monastère, place du Monastère in Franquevaux. Tel. 04 66 80 95 58.

Mas du Notaire in Gallician. Tel. 04 66 35 03 00. www.masdunotaire.com Château Mas Neuf, Mas Neuf in Gallician. Tel. 04 66 73 33 23. www.chateau-mas-neuf.com

In Gallician, drive along the wonderful D779 which runs through the marshland reeds near the lake of Charnier to the lakeside regional nature reserve at Scamandre. You won’t find any flashy tourist boutiques here, rather a willingness to preserve this exceptional flora and fauna and educate those visitors lucky enough to encounter it. The park prides itself on its three themed trails.

The cycle circuit This is the perfect way to delve into the real Petite Camargue (we advise you take the route described here - as it is on a downhill gradient and captures the best aspects of the landscape). The route is easy to follow, thanks to the marking system devised by the by the council of Costières, which consists of sign posts (with information panels). Set off from the village of Beauvoisin in the direction of Générac. Just before you enter the village, take the road to Franquevaux on your right. You will then make your way through the Costières de Nîmes vineyard, dotted with Mediterranean forests, wooded groves and with a breath-taking, all-embracing view of the lakes. On your way, stop off at the Mas de Calet estate (on your right) or just after it, the Domaine de Bel Air La Cote (AB). When you pick up the route again, head in the direction of Franquevaux (just nearby).

Come and savour the wonders of their cellar, deep in the heart of Camargue. Open every week day and by appointment at weekends.

When in Gallician, a former fishing port transformed into a wine-growing village, stop off at the exquisite Mas du Notaire (“The Notary’s Farmhouse”) and sample their carefully cultivated wines. Another option is to stay and relax in one of their five incredible apartments, both appealing and tastefully decorated. Opposite is the Château Mas Neuf estate. The wine-grower, Luc Baudet is passionate about gastronomy and wine. Chef, Jérôme Nutile (2 stars - Castellas), inspired by his trip at the beginning of the year to Thailand, has recently conceived a dish of gastronomic delight, accompanied by some delectable Mas Neuf wines. SUDDEFRANCE - 25 -

Relax and unwind amidst lakes and vines If you feel the need to recover from your walk, take time out at “Couleurs de Camargue”, where you can dine and lay your head for the night 19, rue Saint-Marc in Beauvoisin Tel. 04 66 01 97 33. www.couleurs-camargue.fr or venture back to l’Ancien Monastère (see above). Rooms are also available at the Mas Neuf vineyard (see above) or at Château Haute Cassagne in Saint Gilles. Tel. 04 66 87 10 87. www.chateaudelahautecassagne.fr If you are planning a longer trip, the stunningly luxurious apartments at Mas du Notaire (see above) are highly recommended as are the rooms at the l’Ancienne Abbaye de Franquevaux, place du Monastère in Franquevaux. Tel. 04 66 51 05 75. www.ancienne-abbaye.com

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:45 Page26

AROMAS LA GRANDE-MOTTE - PALAVAS-LES-FLOTS

LaGrande-Motte, anarchitecturaldream

t is hard to imagine that a mere 45 years ago, La Grande Motte and the surrounding area were nothing but fly-infested marshlands, their only highlights, the magnificent pink flamingos, horses and herons. In order to staunch the longstanding migration of the French people to the coasts of Spain, at the end of the 1950s the State made the decision to reclaim 200km of the Languedoc-Roussillon coastline. This mammoth undertaking resulted in the construction of five seaside resorts, particularly famous for their bathing facilities, including La Grande Motte, a purpose-built “holiday town”. At the beginning of the 1960s the project was entrusted to the expert hands of the architect, Jean Balladur, who decided to make

a radical break from the then very popular functionalist aesthetic. By fusing the ideas behind unusual volumes, such as pyramids, with the concept of bends and curves, he gave this new town a distinctive look and fixed identity, whilst allowing it to maintain a natural, green environment - a third of the town is made up of green spaces. The commune boasts numerous tourist information points and upmarket leisure facilities with its golf course, water-therapy centre, gastronomic restaurants, and 7 km of beach, which skirts the town, peppered with a range of beach bar-restaurants. Thanks to its proximity to Montpellier and its permanent residents, La Grand-Motte is popular all year round. www.sunfrance.com/lagrandemotte www.lagrandemotte-tourisme.com

Palavas,all the charm of the sea! Less than 10 km to the south of the region’s capital, Palavas (Hérault) has always been Montpellier’s summer destination. Tucked between the sea and a lake, surrounded by lush natural landscape and exceptional flora, for some this town on the Gulf of Lion represents an over-popular resort to be avoided, while for others it is a Mecca of fun and relaxation. It was artist Albert Dubout who popularised the image of this spa area with his drawings of the crowded and slightly madcap beaches back when paid holidays began. He was also partial to the little train that ran till 1968, shuttling between Palavas and Mont-

World heritage city In 2010, 42 years after the arrival of its first tourists, La Grande-Motte gained the “20th Century Heritage” title, becoming the first water-therapy centre in France to gain this distinction since its creation by the Ministry of Culture. The idea behind the label was to award recognition to architecturally unique urban structures throughout France.

pellier and bringing crowds of city dwellers for a dip or to unwind for an afternoon or weekend in the casino. Camping, the symbol of cut-price holidaymaking, was for a long time another symbol of Palavas. In the 1970s, singer Marc Charlan even mocked the town’s charms with his lyric “Je me casse à Palavas” (I’m buggering off to Palavas). But this former fishing village has other charms aplenty, starting with its 7 kilometres of gently sloping beaches, ideal for families with kids. The village has a fair number of restaurants around the canal popular with summer strollers, and straw huts where visitors can enjoy sea food with their feet trailing in the water.The visual symbol of the town, the old water tower built in the 1940s, has been renovated with a revolving restaurant on top, offering an exceptional panoramic view over the coast. Palavas, soon to be accessible from Montpellier by cycle track, is the only deep-water yachting port in the Mediterranean and can accommodate over a thousand boats. www.sunfrance.com/palavas - www.palavaslesflots.com

SUDDEFRANCE - 26 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:45 Page27

AROMAS SÈTE

Sète,afishing townlikenoother Located between Thau Lake and the deep blue sea, Sète (Hérault) enjoys a distinctive and colourful cultural identity.

ith its bobbing trawlers and to the sound of shouts from the fishmongers plying their wares in the covered markets, Sète has all the attractions of a town-centre port. The origins of its name, which for a long time was “Cette”, are thought to derive from what sailors saw as the whale-like (“ceta” from the Latin “cetus”) outline of Mt St Clair above the town. The sailors live in the picturesque Pointe-Coute district, plying what are known around here as “the little trades”. In local jargon, they are known as the “Pointus”. Along the quays, where jousts are held, small boats jostle with trawlers. When the sailors disembark, the air is alive with their cries and the smell of invigorating sea air. Then there are those who live in the more residential quarters up on the hill, which has served as a landmark for navigators from time immemorial. But it was Paul Valéry who first described it as the “peculiar island”. Sète owes its foundation in 1666 to three characters, Paul Riquet, Louis XIV and

the Chevalier de Clerville. The former wanted an opening into the Mediterranean for the Canal du Midi, the King desired an export port for Languedoc products, while the latter identified the Cape of Sète as the most appropriate spot... and so the port was born. The St Louis breakwater built to protect the entrance to the old port has accommodated boats ever since. It was also in 1666, on St Louis’ Day, that the first jousting tournaments took place, a tradition now deeply embedded in local culture. In the heyday of the wine trade, Sète was the world’s first barrel-making port and a flourishing town. Today’s Sea Theatre, with its remarkable acoustics, was built following an attack by the English navy, which almost took the town in 1710. Forty years later, famine drove Italian fishermen from the port of Gaète to leave their native country, and many settled in Sète, bringing a wealth of colour to the port, where they had lived in their own district. This same original Italian population has added a dash of colour to local cuisine. Local specialities include bourride made from anglerfish, bouillabaisse, the pasta-based macaronade, and the cuttlefish dish rouille de seiche, for which every family has its own recipe ! The roots of Sète are rich indeed. www.sunfrance.com/sete www.tourisme-sete.fr SUDDEFRANCE - 27 -

Oh Lido! In the five years since the start of structural work on the lido, this strip of beach, linking the lake at Thau with the Mediterranean area of Sète in Marseillan, has changed enormously. Faced with coastal erosion, the public authorities summoned all the means they could to protect this 12 km of beach whose permanent disappearance was a real threat. The coastal route, which overlooked this stretch of beach, was relocated to run alongside the railway. On the sea front, the sand dunes have been reconstructed and the beach itself widened (up to 70 m in places). Four free car parks have been created, all with entry points to the beach front. There are now 35 public access point to the lido, many with footbridges (disabled access), and towards the outskirts of Sète, a new promenade has been designed. While it may be true that it has somewhat lost some of its original rural appeal, the changes made to the lido have made it much easier to access, something that a beach as beautiful as this surely deserves.Yet what has always remained the most important factor is the effort to conserve this unique setting and favour its sustained development.

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:45 Page28

CIRCUIT A TOUR OF THE COASTAL PORTS •6 4 •

•

paradise and a particular favourite spot of the local Catalan people. Harbour Master’s Office: 04 68 81 63 27.

The beached cruise liner of Barcarès and the surrounding area

3• 2•

1• For those who simply love to take things easy in the sun, Languedoc-Roussillon prides itself on its 220 km of sandy beaches, from the Spanish borders to the gates of Provence. We can see the “Pavillon Bleu” (“Blue Flag” an environment quality label) flying high on the majority of the beaches, twelve of which are listed as protected sites. It should be noted that 60% of the Mediterranean coast has remained in its natural state. Rubbing shoulders with the powerful waters of the sea, 27 ports mark the coastline, from Collioure to Grau-du-Roi. Blessed with an array of superb facilities, including 8 resorts founded in the 1960s, Languedoc-Roussillon can be viewed as a leading region in terms of its sailing options, an example of which is the fact that it is equipped with more than 30,000 moorings as well as a host of portal extensions in progress.

At the foot of the Albères hills in Argelès-sur-Mer Home to a myriad of services (refuelling, storage, rigging etc.), this port town with its impressive 790 moorings finds itself happily situated in a tranquil environment and truly magical setting - a perfect stop-over destination. Just a few nautical miles from the Cap Béar, with its unparalleled prospects of the Albères hills, this port is among the most welcoming you are likely to find. Next to the harbour, a 7 km stretch of beach extends out into a 12 hectare pine forest. Further south, those of you enamoured by beautiful scenery will find Racou beach very hard to resist - a little nugget of

In the 17th century, a fishing port sprung up on a narrow strip of land between lake and sea, in an area formerly known for its boatbuilding community, 2 experts in the construction of Catalan boats. The maritime gateway to Catalonia, PortBarcarès witnessed a re-birth following the redevelopment of its coastline. In the 1960s, a new resort was constructed just a few kilometres away with an astonishing 1930s cruise liner as its emblem, the figurehead of the town. It is the only beached ship of its kind in the world. Long-time home to a restaurant and casino, it has since been converted into a nightclub. As the resort’s number one tourist attraction, its management was taken over by the municipality, which now invites visitors to enjoy guided tours of this captivating liner. Harbour Master’s Office: 04 68 86 07 35.

found alongside the beach front. A small, family friendly port, it lies at the mouth of the PisseSaumes canal, which links the sea with Lake Thau. Harbour Master’s Office: 04 67 77 34 93.

The fishing town of Sète Known informally as the “Venice of Languedoc”, due to its splendid parade of light and colour, Sète was built on the slopes of the Mont Saint Clair, and perches on the mountainside as a look-out over the lake at Thau and the sea that lies beyond. The largest fishing port in the Mediterranean zone, it has retained much of its authenticity. The port, decreed by Louis XIV, was constructed at the same time as the Canal du Midi. At Sète, there is no shortage of recreational activities: visit the auction and livestock markets, take a walk round Mont Saint-Clair, stopping at the maritime cemetery to pay your respects to that great theatre legend, Jean-Vilar – this year marks the centenary of his birth - stroll along the lido or the river banks, and then of course, in summer, watch the dramatic jousting contests on the royal canal. A word of warning, the port soon fills up – get there early to avoid disappointment! Harbour Master’s Office: 04 67 74 98 97.

Sublime beaches and a panoramic restaurant in Leucate With its castle over-shadowing what lies below, Leucate is a charming market town fringed by sea and lakes with beautiful beaches and incredible white cliffs upon which a towering lighthouse stands. With 1,500 moorings, it remains one of the largest European sailing ports in terms of surface area. At sea, sports enthusiasts benefit from “la tramontane”, an Italian wind that flows in from Alps, which creates ideal conditions for sailing and water sports. Every year, at the end of April, the international wind sports competition, ‘Mondial du Vent’ takes place in nearby La Franqui. Leucate is a peaceful resort with basic, but very welcoming accommodation. Worth noting is the brand new restaurant, “Klim & Co”, recently inaugurated by chef, Alexandre Klimenko, in a stunning location upon the cliff tops. Sea food and views to take your breath away! Harbour Master’s Office: 04 68 40 91 24.

The Marseillan canal a little piece of paradise A tranquil town of a modest size on the Thau lakeshore, Marseillan has retained its sense of a hidden paradise. The ancient alleyways of this Mediterranean town have an irresistible magnetism. A sense of peace descends as you listen to the gently lapping waters of the canal, not far from the warehouses where the aperitif ‘Noilly-Prat’ was formerly made (a visit to the former factory can be organised). The port can be SUDDEFRANCE - 28 -

•6

Port Camargue, the “garden port” Adjoining the one-time fishing village of Grau-duRoi, Port Camargue was built towards the end of the 1960s by the architect, Jean Balladur, already responsible for the futuristic lines of the buildings he designed in La Grande-Motte. Denoting the maritime boundary between Northern and Southern Europe, the port has the advantage of 4,800 moorings and is well-sheltered from the wind, striking a perfect balance between water fronts and green spaces, thus earning it the label “garden-port”. Port-Camargue is equally remarkable for its marinas, built floating on the surface of the waters, each with their own private dock. This is a sailor’s paradise, located at the gates of Petite Camargue near the unspoilt beach at Espiguette. The port also has the advantage of some exceptional restaurants, including JeanPierre Cazals’ renowned “Le Spinaker” Harbour Master’s Office: 04 66 51 10 45.

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:45 Page29

AROMAS AGDE

Agde,all thefunof thesea

ymbol of his town, he has been in his birthday suit since… the 4th century BC ! The “princely posterior” of the Ephebe of Agde (Hérault), a bronze statue discovered in 1964 in the Grau d’Agde, has been on display since his return to his hometown in 1986 (after over 20 years at the Louvre). While the original is conserved in the purpose-built Ephebe Museum, the replica certainly turns the heads of motorists negotiating the roundabout each day on the southern ring road. Of such paradoxes is Agde made. Once known as the “black pearl of the Mediterranean” because of its basalt stone monuments, the city built on the remains of an ancient volcano overlooked by Mt SaintLoup has a volcanic temperament! A port city since Antiquity (it was founded in the 6th century BC), Agde has set its sights since the 70s’ and 80’s on being a seaside destination, with the construction of the resort at Cap d’Agde. Today the heliotourist centre, a 100% nudist area resort, makes this the world’s biggest nudist site in terms of numbers accommodated, with nudism the norm in the nudist village and on the “private” beaches. But this only one side of Agde, which abounds in important heritage: the city and

its ramparts, among the oldest in France, the Cathedral of St Stephen, the Ephebe museum or the rounded lock of Agde on the Canal du Midi are all popular attractions. And then there are the fine sandy beaches, a high summer paradise for the “Textiles” (as those uninitiated in the delights of nudism are called). Gently sloping and ideal for bathing, they stretch for 14 km east to west: Richelieu beach, Môle and Rochelongue

beach, the shell-covered beach and La Conque beach with its black sands. At the tip of the cape, Brescou Islet, a basalt promontory topped by an eponymous fortress, is a favourite haunt for scuba divers. Meanwhile, up on the surface, water sports enthusiasts can choose between boarding, kite surfing and sailing. www.sunfrance.com/capdagde www.capdagde.com

A unique seabed The Cap d’Agde is very well-known amongst diving enthusiasts. The last link in the chain of the Auvergne volcanoes, the site suffered a volcanic eruption approximately 750,000 years ago, giving rise to the Mont Saint-Loup and a magnificent seabed plateau beneath the waters. Only 300m out to sea, south of La Grande Conque, you find the diving spot, “Tables”, formed by volcanic lava spills. Upon these underwater cliffs, the most expansive within the Languedoc-Roussillon region, shoals of fish and various invertebrates take shelter, making this spot a site rich in gorgonian corals, sea anemone and sponges. For the less adventurous among you, there are pleasure trips on boats with transparent bottoms, allowing for dry contemplation of this incredible seabed. You can also take these boats to visit the Brescou fort (photo), a former State prison, just off the coast of the port at Agde.

SUDDEFRANCE - 29 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:45 Page30

AROMAS LA CLAPE

LaClape,between garrigueandvineyards The La Clape mountain range between Narbonne (Aude) and the sea is a must for lovers of wild nature… and of wine: there are vines everywhere.

his small mountain range (17 km long by 7 km wide), an extension of the Corbières chain, with its white cliffs plunging to the sea and its surrounding lakes (PisseVache, l’Ayrolle, Bages-Sigean), was once an island. In the 14th century, a flood in the Aude changed the course of history. The Roman Insula Laci became La Clape, clapas in occitan, meaning “pile of stones”, cherished like a diamond by the people of Narbonne, Gruissan and other places. Above all for its vineyards, which have long dominated part of the 13,500 hectare limestone area - vines have been growing there for over 2,000 years. Moreover, wine from La Clape was already famous during the Roman Empire, so much so that its winegrowers were the first to benefit from plantation rights accorded to the Roman citizens of Narbonne by the Senate in Rome. An exceptional terrain, it is highly valued by its winegrowers and its wines are regularly awarded prizes. The national institute of agronomic research, INRA, has even set up an experimental winegrowing centre here. With its scrubland flanked by a pine forest of Aleppo pines, the site, listed since 1973 then incorporated into the Narbonne Regional Nature Park, is a Mecca for picnickers, off-road cyclists and climbers. Criss-crossed by underground streams, the range is riddled with caves and chasms. A walk on the range, heady with the scents of thyme, wild fennel and jennet, is a sumptuous experience! From the Pech-Redon which climbs to 214 metres, the view plunges down towards Gruissan and its lakes to caress the blue Mediterranean. One local curiosity that must be seen is the Notre-Dame-des-Auzils maritime cemetery, where a procession is held every

70,000 hectares preserved

Whit Monday. On that day the fishermen of Gruissan, the circular village which rises out of the middle of the long lagoons below, climb up the rocks. The procession follows the Way of the Shipwrecks, a steep path planted with steles in memory of sailors lost at sea, finishing with a prayer in the heights up in the chapel dating from 1634. SUDDEFRANCE - 30 -

Stretching between the Corbières and a vast lagoon complex on the edge of the Mediterranean, the territory of the Narbonne Regional Nature Park (70,000 ha) is one of the last natural conservation sites of this magnitude and diversity. “Jagged magician” grasshoppers, “slender bodied Cordulie” dragonflies and “Diane” butterflies are dearly cherished here, as indeed are foxes, hares, badgers and the hogs which graze the scrubland among the Centaurea corymb, an endemic species of the La Clape mountain range, in bloom from mid-May to July. Feast your eyes also on the landscape of vineyards, towns and villages and the local customs based around the lakes (eel fishing etc.) The area, straddling dry scrubland and humid zones, but fragile on the whole, has been listed and protected for a 12 year-period starting in 2003. www.parc-naturel-narbonnaise.fr

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:46 Page31

AROMAS LA CLAPE

Argelès,from blue to green

Gruissan,a well-rounded village Set between the lakes and the sea, Gruissan (Aude) is a small village built around a little hill and topped by a fortress castle, 35 metres above sea level. Nothing of it remains except the 13th century Barberousse Tower, built to keep guard over the approaches to Narbonne. The origin of the name remains a mystery. The village grew up gradually around the edifice. This little-known phenomenon of circular villages is quite widespread in the Aude and Hérault regions, with around 15 mediaeval villages laid out in this way. But the other distinguishing feature of Gruissan is its stilted chalets on the main beach. The practice itself dates back several centuries, but these buildings, today numbering around 1,300, mushroomed in the 19th century when they first served as fishermen’s shelters then holiday homes for bathers from Carcassonne and Narbonne. It was here that in 1986 Jean-Jacques Beneix filmed Betty Blue with Béatrice Dalle and Jean-Hugues Anglade.

Nestling at the foot of the Albères mountains, where the Pyrenees plunge into the Mediterranean, the village of Argelès-sur-Mer (Pyrénées-Orientales) is a renowned seaside resort - one of the largest in LanguedocRoussillon. The site certainly has its advantages : 7 km of sandy coastline from the natural reservation of Mas Larrieu to Racou and 2 km of rocky coastline, as well as a 23-hectare pine forest. Something for every fan of relaxation and water sports. Meanwhile, between the blue sky and green sea, the village with its shady narrow streets has retained its authenticity and remains a colourful place with a Catalan accent, within sight of Collioure. www.sunfrance.com/argeles www.argeles-sur-mer.com

Well-preserved Peyriac-de-Mer

www.sunfrance.com/gruissan - www.gruissan-mediterranee.com

Leucate, half-way resort The easternmost point of the maritime Corbières, the name Leucate (Aude) comes from the Greek “leukos” meaning “white” or “laucata” in the Languedoc language. With winds blowing from the north clearing the skies, Leucate’s highly strategic location made it a key observation point for over five centuries in the French battle to contain the Kingdom of Aragon. And indeed twice in its history, in the 16h and 17th centuries, the town victoriously resisted the attacks of the Spaniards. Leucate’s charm lies in its diversity. ‘Leucate’ refers in fact to Leucate-Beach, La Franqui and Port Leucate, and its links to the lake and the sea. Once an island, Leucate has remained part of a seagoing environment which continues to provide nourishment aplenty, thanks to its oyster farming activity, (the lake is rich in oysters and other shellfish) and to the tramontane wind, which attracts hordes of “windlovers” to La Franqui, in search of the joys of sand yachting, kite surfing and windsurfing. Every year since the mid-90s, hundreds of enthusiasts have shown up at the end of the spring in front of over 100,000 spectators for the “World Wind Championships” an impressive ballet of sails on the lake. The paradoxical attraction of Leucate lies in this very balance between the 1960’s resort to the south and Coussoles beach to the north, where you won’t find an inch of concrete.

Peyriac-de-Mer, which lies nestled between the former salt mines and lakes of Bages and Sigean, has always remained discreet, and thus undisturbed, safeguarding its unique charm. A small port among the most beautiful in the region, where sailing enthusiasts share the waters with the last of the eel fishers. Its classic main square is graced with a pretty fountain, a fortified 14th century church and stunning houses bordering the mines. The village is a truly timeless spot, at the very heart of the Narbonne Regional Nature Park. A nearby 2 km hiking trail gives visitors a wonderful opportunity to explore the historic salt mines, where so many magnificent birds have taken refuge. www.peyriacdemer.org

www.sunfrance.com/leucate - www.leucate.fr SUDDEFRANCE - 31 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:46 Page32

AROMAS COLLIOURE

PYRÉ

Thepoeticcharm of thislittleCatalanport Collioure, the pearl of Roussillon, nestling in a blue jewellery casket.

n the sea side, it is sculpted by creeks giving it the airs of a princess. On the land side, the vista is dotted and coloured by vineyards and terraces. Often cited as a typical picture postcard destination, Collioure (Pyrénées-Orientales) has something of the Cretan village, is not unlike Italy and enjoys a certain Catalan magnificence. But it remains incomparably poetic, not least in terms of its history, as this port city with its narrow streets has a long-standing link to the arts. Houses awash with colour invite you to stroll and daydream. It was the special light of Collioure that inspired the Fauvist painters, along with its diversity of colours. Collioure is simply bathed in light - a joyful place where cicadas sing and Paradise seems ever-present. The houses of this ancient Mediterranean trading port are

ochre, orange and pink, and its beauty has led to many a battle. It served as the summer residence of the Kings of Majorca in the 12th century, before passing into the hands of the Kings of France : Louis XI and Charles VIII. It was Vauban who gave Collioure its current appearance just before the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659 definitively returned Roussillon to France. While the fortress was expanded and the town transformed during these conquests, Collioure still retains traces of its mediaeval past. The cornerstone of the defensive system, the royal castle, listed as a historic monument in 1922, was built during the 13th and 18th centuries. The fortress of Saint-Elme, the church of NotreDame-des-Anges whose foundations inhabit the waters of the Mediterranean or the tower of Madeloc all contribute to the fame of Collioure. The city retains a wild charm, surrounded by inlets, a shingle beach, a little port, Catalan boats and little streets full of flowers. But make no mistake, people in Collioure speak Catalan, fish for sardines, salt their anchovies and enjoy afternoon siestas. Throughout the town, galSUDDEFRANCE - 32 -

leries and little restaurants perfect for parties await the curious. A treasure on the Côte Vermeille where no pleasure is greater than finding a little guest house for the night. www.sunfrance.com/collioure www.collioure.com

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:21 Page33

CIRCUIT 24 HOUR SIGHTSEEING TOUR - THE VERMEILLE COAST

LES IENTA R O S ÉE PYRÉN

• 6

•

4• 3

•

2•

Port-Vendres, typically Mediterranean As well as holding the prize position as Roussillon’s leading fishing port, Port-Vendres is also a successful commercial zone, where trade takes place mainly in fruit from Spain and the Maghreb. The port is situated but a few kilometres from Collioure yet intends to remain more peaceful than its busier neighbour, which attracts larger numbers of tourists. The town, remodelled in the 17th century, has retained many of its numerous original features. The monuments designed by Vauban are key reminders of its former splendour. The imposing Obelisk situated near the port, constructed from Roussillon’s famous pink marble, is very much testament to the glory of Louis XIV. Fishermen sell their freshly caught sardines at the port daily, from 8.00 a.m. to 10.00 a.m. on the corner of the Quai Pierre-Forgas. In the afternoons, it is the turn of the trawler-men, who come to the very same key side. On a weekly basis, we can stand back and observe the procession of refrigerated cargo ships, as they disembark their loads of fresh fruit and vegetables from Morocco and West Africa. And why not take a closer look at the war memorial, facing the old port, built in 1922 by the sculptor, Aristide Maillol – Venus, holding up her right palm, symbolically rewarding those who died for the country. Port-Vendres Tourism Office. Tel. 04 68 82 07 54.

The coastal path of Port-Vendres It is almost impossible to visit this stunning coastline and not feel the impulse to walk it. The Tourist Office can provide you with several informative leaflets proposing a range of circuits (see below) of which the most remarkable has to be the ‘Between Sea and Mountain’ walk, which leads you up towards the lighthouse of Cap Béar (4 hours in total), overhanging the intriguing Fort Béar, a military construction dating back to the Vauban era, still used by the army today. From there, the path runs along the coastal front, with

2 sensational seascapes, and then descends towards the beach in the bay of Paulilles. This cove conceals three beaches. The middle beach was formerly home to a factory which produced… dynamite! Completely transformed by the regional council, it is now a classified site, but remains open to visitors. The return trip is made by way of Cosprons, crossing through vineyards and the Mig mountain pass. Maison du site de Paulilles (visitor centre): 04 68 95 23 40. Hiking trail maps for Port-Vendres are sold at the Tourist Office.

A restful feast at La Côte Vermeille Situated on the site of the former auction house, the “La Côte Vermeille” restaurant is an establishment well known all along the coast. On the menu, unsurprisingly, a wide range of fish dishes, with mullet filets, monkfish, wolf-fish, all expertly grilled to perfection. Feast your eyes on the unsurpassable views of the port from the restaurant’s panoramic terrace. La Côte Vermeille, quai du Fanal in Port-Vendres. Tel. 04 68 82 05 71.

Follow in the footsteps of the artists - Collioure With its pebbled beach and a church that skirts the water’s edge, this old port is brimming with an irresistible allure. It is so very easy to understand what inspired those artists, who over a century ago were discovering this town and creating, in the company of Matisse and Derain, the “fauvist” movement, where the boldest of colour is king. A walking tour has been created, exhibiting 20 reproductions, in exactly the same spot SUDDEFRANCE - 33 -

the original artists painted some of their most beautiful canvasses. Guided tours in summer. Espace fauve, avenue Camille Pelletan in Collioure. Tel. 04 68 98 07 16.

Admire the techniques used by masterglass-makers Situated 15 km away, the small village of Palau del Vidre lies upon the Roussillon plains. For almost 20 years, master glass-makers have been flourishing here, where they have installed their workshops in the Palais du Verre (‘Glass Palace’). In addition to creating tableware, restoring window panes and moulding using thermal compression techniques, they have kept alive the traditional know-how of glass blowing. In August, every year, a festival of glass artistry transforms this village into Europe’s largest showcase of this profession and art.

Sleep beneath a yurt in Sorède Three years have passed since Joëlle Lacoste set up her three yurts near her cottage. In the centre of a cork-oak grove, in the foothills of the Albères mountains, with impeccable views of Canigou, these Mongolian tents– with their traditional fittings – create a jubilant and astonishing departure from routine. A host of activities are available to add yet further to the enjoyment of your stay including archery and massage etc. Au Soleil Mongol (“The Mongolian Sun”), route d’Argelès-sur-Mer in Sorède. Tel. 06 26 25 03 91.

AROMAS IN THE COUNTRYSIDE

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:46 Page34

AROMAS AUBRAC - MARGERIDE

Aubrac and Margeride – vineyard country, rooted in history

ith its hint of desert reminiscent of the Mongolian steppes, its volcanic climate and temperament, Aubrac (Lozère) is nothing if not surprising! With its basalt profile fashioned at the end of the Tertiary by volcanic eruptions, this is a paradise for walkers, fishers and skiers alike. Here, at the back end of beyond, all the magic resides in the beauty of these “borderless” landscapes. Along the little routes crossing these moors with their thousand shades of green, the landscape is delineated only by animal trails. From time to time, besides the cows, the eye chances on strange rocky masses eroded by time, from a distance resembling menhirs or dolmens. Farther on, little villages with robust houses are sprinkled across the countryside, from Nasbinals to Saint-Germain-du-Teil. There’s a perfect welcome wherever you go, with comfortable gîtes offering shelter wonderful! Aubrac, famed for its gastronomy, is also a land of traditions, with its May transhumance season, always the occasion for colourful festivals. On the day, the herds are driven by their shepherds to stone huts up in the summer pastures where they will spend the summer months: this is where the local “tome” cheese would be stored and then used for the local speciality: aligot. The Margeride range on the border is graced with a chiselled profile, its sculpted reliefs formed in the Palaeozoic era. The old county of Gévaudan, scene of the misdeeds of the “Beast” of Gévaudan at the end of the 19th century, is a dense and mysterious forest kingdom (Scots pines, beeches and artificial spruce plantations). The plateau features a range of animal parks (the St Lucie wolf park, the bison reserve at St Eulalie, the vultures’ belvedere in the valleys of the Jonte), in a natural landscape criss-crossed by torrents and rivers. Here the most sizeable population besides fishermen is made up of... hikers! In fact, the landscape is crossed here and there by the ancient route to Santiago de Compostela, now a major hiking trail, featuring the key highlights of the Camino frances and the via Podiensis marking the upper lands: Aumont-Aubrac, Malbouzon, Rieutort d’Aubrac, Marchastel, Nasbinals, before re-joining Aubrac in Aveyron. It’s another land of miracles. For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.sunfrance.com/grands_espaces

SUDDEFRANCE - 34 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:46 Page35

AROMAS GORGES DU TARN - CAUSSE MÉJEAN

ThemajesticgorgesofTarn In the south west of Lozère,between the plateaus of Méjean and Sauveterre,Tarn has carved its place in among meanders of an extraordinarily rare beauty.A marvellous trail,classified as a “great site of nature”.

he fault line is truly immense. Over the course of thousands of years, the river, which takes its source further east at Mont Lozère, has battered a deep crevice into the ground beneath, sculpting a veritable canyon into the tenderly soft limestone soils of the Grands Causses. The staggeringly steep slopes of the cliffs reach 500 m in places! From Ispagnac to Rozier, the gorges of Tarn alternate between clear, calm waters and raging rapids, a pure delight for white water rafting fans. From Sainte-Enimie, one of the most beautiful villages in France, you can descend the gorges in a canoe-kayak, even if you’re just a beginner in the sport. An imposing landscape, its 53 kilometre gorge is very well known for its superbly rich fauna and flora. It is not beyond the realms of possibility that you will spot a “Lady’s Slipper” on your travels, the largest wild orchid to be found in France, or belucky enough to witness the flight of the Griffon Vulture, instantly recognisable by the white plumage on its head, or perhaps even a Black Vulture, much darker in appearance. These are truly remarkable creatures, with wingspans of almost 3 metres when fully spread! Near Rozier, in the Jonte gorges, the “Belvédère des Vautours” (“Vulture Viewpoint”) allows for careful observation of these spectacular birds of prey. In order to fully appreciate the incredible scenery offered by these gorges, and to get a closer look of the numerous castles along its route, you should follow the gorge by car, starting from the D907bis, which runs parallel to the river on

The lunar kingdom of the Causse Méjean Upon a backdrop of splendid solitude, the Causse Méjean opens out onto 33,000 unruly hectares of land. At over 1000 metres altitude, a steppe of dry grassland, bespeckled with hamlets with their slate rooftops and “cazelles”, small shelters used by shepherds. What lies beneath the surface is as rich as the land above is dry, with a plethora of caves and sinkholes. Some of the geological particularities are simply astounding. This is certainly the case with the “chaos” (an ancient granite rock formation) of Nîmes-le-Vieux between Florac and Meyrueis. This mass of limestone boulders conjures up images of a ruined city. The movement of water and frost combined with the strength of the sun and wind has chiselled these rocks, forging a terrain of strange and fantastical shapes in the dolomitic limestone. A pedagogical route crosses the chaos between the hamlets of Hom and Gally, and leaves from Le Veygalier. the right bank, or, if you are suitably equipped, why not take the narrow hiking paths on foot, which run alongside the gorge, faithfully following its meanders along the floor of the valley. Another excellent choice would be to treat yourself to a boat trip. The section between Malène and the vineyards is particularly narrow and reputed to be the most beautiful. There are several foot trails suitable for all levels of walkers. Those visitors just briefly passing through this stunning, timeless land must not miss the sublime “Baumes” on the right bank. Perched 400 m above the river, on the limestone plateau of Sauveterre, this vantage point looks out onto the spectacle of ochrecoloured cliffs plunging into the emerald waters below, bending at a right-angle with an uninterrupted vista of the gorges below. www.gorgesdutarn.net SUDDEFRANCE - 35 -

The stalagmites of Aven Armand After passing through the little village of Meyrueis, take a left off the road to the gorges of Jonte to join the D986.You will quickly find yourself near the Armand sinkhole, a funnel shaped hollow, 10 to 15 metres in diameter. We enter an underground cave through a funicular, which descends into the depths of the rock until it reaches an oval-shaped chasm. Inside this immense underground chamber, in which the Notre Dame cathedral of Paris could more than easily fit, a most stunning sight unfolds before our eyes – 400 immense stalagmites, shaped over millions of years. Aven Armand, in Meyrueis. Tel. 04 66 45 61 31. www.aven-armand.com

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:46 Page36

CIRCUIT 48 HOUR TOUR IN CÉVENNES Take the steam train to Saint-Jean-du-Gard 5

•

• •4

Spitting out steam and grit as it trundles along, this authentic steam train takes the old railway lines, which closed in 1971, between Alès and Anduze. The train travels a total of 13 km and crosses a myriad of masterpieces in engineering, including a 104 m metal bridge which vaults over the Gardon river. It is possible to break your journey at Prafrance, a bamboo plantation, where 200 varieties of bamboo can be found to be flourishing right in the heart of the Cévennes! A little further on, your journey leads you to Mialet, the birthplace of the chief Camisard, Roland, where the “Musée du désert” (“The Desert Museum”), has been built in dedication to the history of Protestantism.

• 1•

•

GARD

Prafrance - Bamboo plantation: 04 66 61 70 47. Musée du Désert: 04 66 85 02 73. The little Cévennes steam train (from April to October): 04 66 60 59 00. www.trainavapeur.com

Capture the spirit of freedom in Anduze

The Cévennes coastal road

1 Leave Alès, and head towards Anduze, around 10 km away. A mediaeval village snuggly situated upon the banks of river Gardon, Anduze is the gateway to the Cévennes and the focal point of the Protestant movement in the 16thcentury. The temple of Anduze with its austere facade is one of the largest temples in France. The village possesses a charm and softness, idyllic in summer if you want to experience the good life. A perfect spot for a stroll, where you will fall head over heels in love with the village’s famous potteries, or perhaps even bump into local Oscar winning legend, Jean Dujardin and his wife Alexandra Lamy, who were married in in the village and still keep a house here. Anduze Tourist Office: 04 66 61 98 17.

Delve deep into Haute Gardon, taking the D260 in the direction of Pompidou. You will find yourself on the Cévennes coastal road, a strategic route built in the 18th century to allow the passage of the dragoon guards of Louis XIV, on the hunt of the Camisards. A sumptuous setting. Take the time to appreciate the spectacular vistas from the Exil pass, before forking off to the left onto the shorter D39 to join the Borgne valley and then the tiny village of Plantiers, in the Cévennes, with its fierce waters and ridges whose former industry was silkworm farming. A delightful water museum has been established in what once was the village’s windmill. From here, you have the possibility of setting out on on a number of walking tours.

Tourist Office in Borgne valley, Saint-André-de-Valborgne. Tel. 04 66 60 32 11. www.vallee-borgne.org/fr

An overnight stay with river views There are a range of guest houses in Plantiers and neighbouring villages. But you cannot fail to fall for the seductiveness of the “Auberge du Valgrand” (“The Valgrand Inn”), a solid, threestorey structure with five enchanting suites. In summer, the inn opens its restaurant, dining SUDDEFRANCE - 36 -

5 in which can only be described as an absolute pleasure. In the morning, wake up to breakfast served on the terrace, overlooking the river.

Auberge du Valgrand, Les Plantiers. Tel. 04 66 83 90 11. www.auberge-valgrand.com

Assailing Mont-Aigoual After a hearty breakfast, head for Mont Aigoual along the steep D193 and D10 before picking up the D986 in the direction of Espérou (where the herding season starts in June). From here, it is straight to the top of the Aigoual summit, at an astounding 1,565 m and asublime bird’s eye view of what lies below. The “Circuit des Botanistes” (“The Botanist’s Circuit”); signposted all the way, is a delightful way to reach the majority of the mount’s slopes in under an hour. Not to be missed - a visit to the weather observatory, the only mountain meteorological station still operating in France. Aigoual Met Station. Tel. 04 67 82 60 01 (free).

Saint-Hippolytedu-Fort, a silken past We head back down from Mont Aigoual via Valleraugue. At the hamlet of Villaret, the gardens of Sambucs offer a haven of peace and tranquillity with vibrant gardens in which rare plants vie for position with fields of coloured flowers. You can take a break here and delight in a light, rustic lunch. If you feel a little hungrier, at a distance of only 4 km, you will chance upon “L’Abeuradou”, an atypical eatery, where food is prepared in the style traditionally served at the Château du Rey in Pont d’Hérault. Another possibility is to make a detour to Vigan, a town which blends typical Cévennes style with something of the Mediterranean touch. The return trip to Alès can be taken via Saint-Hippolyte-du-Fort, where you can feel yourself plunging back through the region’s rich past if you visit the ancient silk-works, since transformed into a silk-themed museum.

The gardens of Sambucs in Villaret. Tel. 06 82 49 59 19. L’Abeuradou in Pont-d’Hérault. Tel. 04 67 82 49 32. Musée de la soie (“Silk Museum”) in Saint-Hippolyte-du-Fort. Tel. 04 66 77 66 47.

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:47 Page37

AROMAS UZÈS

Uzès,beautyinStone

A jewel arising from a landscape of vines and olive groves, this ducal city reigns supreme in the Gard countryside. And in the hearts of tourists.

t’s the St Tropez of Languedoc. Like those campaniles which ring the hours in the countryside around St Tropez, Uzès (Gard) has its Fenestrelle Tower, the steeple of the Cathedral of St Théodorit, cleaving the countryside with its varnished yellow and green tiles. Quite a symbol for this little Langeduoc town of only 8000 inhabitants, without a doubt a vital stopping-off point on any Languedoc itinerary ! Listed as a protected site in 1965, Uzès, with its squares surrounded by arcades, cafes and restaurants, picturesque mediaeval little streets, gentle pace and its stars (actor Samuel Benchetrit, Guy Lagache - TV presenter of M6 channel’s ‘Capital’, JeanLouis Trintignant etc.) fully deserves the praise heaped on it by Jean Racine, who once wrote to a correspondent in Paris, “Our nights here are more beautiful than your days,” (Letters from Uzès). And

there’s more. Uzès, the first duchy of France, even has a real Duke and Duchess: Jacques de Crussol d’Uzès. The 17th Duke, an international businessman with an MBA from Columbia University in the States, has spent twenty years restoring the Ducal Château for the benefit of tourists. These same tourists flock to the town’s market on Saturday mornings to meet the local small farmers. Local crafts, already long established in this region, are undergoing a revival with the pottery and ceramic work at Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie. However, the summer highlight is the Pont du Gard, where visitors come to seek the fresh air and feast their eyes on a region, graced with cypress trees and undulating valleys, that is more than a little reminiscent of Tuscany. www.sunfrance.com/uzes www.uzes-tourisme.com

A strangely round tower Situated near the Hotel de Castille, the cathedral of St Théodorit is surprisingly proportioned. Built at the end of the 11th century on the site of a Roman temple, the church was destroyed many times and the present tower dates from the middle of the 17th century. Most interesting of all, the cathedral is flanked on the right side by the Tour Fenestrellle, whose height and round form are astonishing, a rarity in France, perhaps inspired by Italian campaniles. The construction of this remnant from the old cathedral would appear to date back to the 12th century, at least the lower part and the “screw of St Gilles”, a staircase whose steps are supported by a helix-shaped barrel vault. SUDDEFRANCE - 37 -

Chartreuse,ahaven of spirituality Mirroring Avignon on the other side of the river, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon overhangs the Rhône, with its fort of Saint-André, which once marked the borders of the kingdom. Beyond its military architecture, Villeneuve conceals a more tranquil gem: the Carthusian monastery, Notre-Dame-du-Val-de-Bénédiction, erected on the lands of Etienne Aubert who became the Pope of Avignon in 1352, under the name Innocent VI. From the 14th century to the 17th century, this religious monument was steadily built upon and extended until it became one of the largest and richest monasteries in France, accommodating almost a 100 residents. Sold as state property during the French Revolution, it was rediscovered at the beginning of the 20th century. Of complex design, the monastery conceals a number of architectural pleasures, such as the great cloister and the tomb of Innocent VI. In the 1970s, the monastery witnessed a rebirth and became a cultural centre and since 1991 has played host to the National Centre of Playwrights. www.chartreuse.org

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:47 Page38

THE ŒNO CIRCUIT THE GENTLE ROLLING COUNTRYSIDE OF THE DUCHY OF UZÈS

5 2 3

•

• •

Uzès, the Duchy and... the local winegrowers – have all done everything in their power to attempt to gain the status “Appellation d’Origine Protégée - Duché d’Uzès” (AOP), a label ensuring “protected designation of origin”. The final decision is expected to be taken this year. In the meantime, enjoy a gentle stroll through Uzège where the vines are intertwined with olive trees, truffle oaks and apple orchards, a visual treat and an experience of note for the palette.

•

• •

Picnic and a horsedrawn carriage in Airpaillargues

A walk and tastingtour of the town Rise and shine with a trip to the market. On Wednesdays you can buy directly from the producers and the market features an even wider choice of produce on Saturdays. Or venture into the centre of the village of Uzès, a splendid mix of arcades, alleyways, private houses, its Duchy, the cathedral… alive with history! Make your way towards the Domaine Saint-Firmin, situated in the very heart of the centre. Two hectares of vines growing in the village itself! Its wine cellar is open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m. (except Sundays) Domaine Saint-Firmin, rue Saint-Firmin in Uzès. Tel. 04 66 22 11 43. www.saint-firmin.com

Emmanuel Pédeneau will gladly accompany you though the vineyard in one of his “cars”. After giving you a demonstration of how to tack the horses, you will be invited to enjoy a picnic on the pastures (a 2-hour trip costs € 250 per carriage – for 6 to 10 people). On site, a local wine-grower will explain everything there is to know about the vineyard and the wine produced there. You can take your own picnic, or try the fine-tasting, healthy organic dishes prepared by Laurent Maire (between € 17 and € 45 per person). A wide range of menu options is available. Écurie Font Clarette (next to Deleuze-Rochetin) - Emmanuel Pédeneau, in Arpaillargues. Tel. 06 24 07 42 62. www.ecuriefontclarette.com

A unusual wine cellar in Blauzac

Art and wine a perfect combination Jean-Michel and Catherine Cathonnet or Bertrand Salzes will welcome you to their gorgeous, modern cellar (with a children’s play area), where you are invited to taste their excellent wines such as the Silver Medal winning “La Sarrazine”, Syrah du Monde. On the first floor, take a look around the art gallery with a very original programme and their beautiful terrace. Visit the cellar and walk the discovery trail, studying the fauna and flora along the way and the property’s ‘mazets’ (small cottages) and ‘capitelles’ (shepherd shelters). Domaine Deleuze-Rochetin, road to Uzès in Arpaillargues. Tel. 04 66 59 65 27. www.deleuzerochetin.com

Sun, a terrace, views overlooking the vineyards and the Cévennes... you must be at the Domaine du Lys, where every part of your trip has been carefully thought out from a thoroughly modern perspective. In their atypical cellar, sample their dynamic wines, vigorous and fruity with subtle aromas. They regularly organise social events in conjunction with neighbouring producers. Take a look at their Facebook page. Domaine Les Vignes du Lys, road to Uzès in Blauzac. Tel. 04 66 03 16 37. www.les-lys.fr

Truffle hunt Michel Tournayre has recently created some informative, educational and very exciting walking tours for those who would enjoy learning more about the unusual world of the truffle: the soils they grow in, their roots – both of which can be studied more closely thanks to an underground footpath. Incredible! The site also boasts an arboretum, with 11 different types of truffle bearing trees: lime, hornbeams, hazel, Alep pine, bonsai... As a perfect way to round off the day, browse around the handsome “museum, bar and shop” where a picture of Michel’s grandfather takes pride of place among the truffles, books, local produce and selection of wines. Les Truffières d’Uzès, (“The Truffle Fields of Uzès”) 830, rue d’Alès in Uzès. Tel. 04 66 22 08 41. www.lestruffieresduzes.fr

Chic suites and great restaurants The following is a selection of locations where well-being, design, comfort and luxury are all guaranteed! Take this opportunity to peruse a selection of unique wines, for example, those from the Chabrier vineyard. • Guest house and gastronomic restaurant - L’Artémise à Uzès. Tel. 04 66 63 94 14. www.lartemise.com • Bed and breakfast and cookery classes - Le clos du Léthé in Saint-Médiers. Tel. 04 66 74 58 37. www.closdulethe.com • Guest house with dinner included - La Maison d’Ulysse in Baron. Tel. 04 66 81 38 41. www.lamaisondulysse.com

4 SUDDEFRANCE - 38 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:47 Page39

AROMAS ALÈS

The capital of the Gard Cévennes on the banks of the capricious Gardon is undergoing a full revival.

Alès theBlack goesGreen!

his is the land of “black faces”, “white shirts” and “Parpaillots”1. The low Cévennes are a haven for those escaping the city crowd (Ysabelle Lacamp, Patrick Timsit, Charlie Watts the drummer of the Rolling Stones, actress Bernadette Laffont etc.), a refuge for the adventurous 1968 generation, and a miraculous place in general. At the end of the mining era, it was here that in the 1960s the neo-rural wave began “going green”, injecting fresh energy into a region laid low by the rural exodus. At the time, Alès, capital of the region, was a wounded city, having lost its colonnaded square and its Coq Hardi Inn, which according to legend housed the “Peace of Alais” signed in 1629 by Richelieu, guaranteeing religious freedoms. After the closure of the last traditional mines in 1982 and 1986 (open-cast mines would follow in the years after 2000), the working class town, which at its height employed 24,000 miners, was operating 21 mines collectively known as the Cévennes Basin Mines (3 million tons of coal were extracted in 1950) slowly shut the door on its mining

30 hectares of bamboo!

past. The former “dormitory town” on the bank of the capricious River Gordon began to awaken. Today Alès is buzzing culturally. People flock from neighbouring cities (Nîmes, Montpellier, Arles) to its Le Cratère theatre, part of the National Theatre network; film lovers come from even farther afield for the unmissable Itinerances festival (March each year). Above all, the town is going green. Since 2007, Alès has reaped a number of environmental awards : national medals for sustainable development, the French capital of biodiversity, a Marianne d’Or etc. Alès is also the setting for an Ascension Feria each June, where bullfighting traditions continue to thrive (bullfights and other spectacles) while the town dances to the rhythm of the bodegas. * Butterfly in Occitan. The pejorative term describes the Camisards, the white-shirted peasants who lived at night, like butterflies.

www.sunfrance.com/ales www.villes-ales.fr

In the heart of the Cévennes in Anduze (Gard) lies this natural paradise with its bamboo-lined avenues and fragrance of sequoia, the bark and the foliage of its bamboo forest creating an all-pervading sense of exoticism. This stunningly beautiful natural landscape is also listed as a historic monument. A superb gingko biloba overlooks SUDDEFRANCE - 39 -

The Desert Museum : religion at the Mas Soubeyran In the kitchens of the Mas Soubeyran in the Gard (the former home of Roland, the master camisard), the highpoint to the visit is the human hiding-place, a telling evocation of the sense of permanent secrecy during the Desert Period in Cévennes. This is how French Protestantism was forged in the hundred years between the revocation of the Edict of Nantes (1685) and the Edict of Tolerance (1787) - amid struggle and the loss of religious liberties (worship, free will, movement for prisoners or those sentenced to the galleys). In Cévennes, land of mountains and hideouts, resistance grew, led by the Camisards (rebels). To commemorate this period, every first Sunday in September since 1911, the Desert Gathering celebrates worship, marriages and baptisms under the oak trees of Mas Soubeyran. The adjoining museum, devoted to the history of French Protestantism, is also worth a visit. Mas Soubeyron at Mialet. Tel 04 66 85 05 72. www.museedusdert.com

the valley of the dragon and a plant-filled valley awaits the walker. To visit this 30-hectare park, complete with shop and garden, is to understand the extent of the project launched by Eugene Mazel, a spice merchant, who bought the Prafrance estate in 1855. Both permanent and temporary exhibitions are held throughout the year. www.sunfrance.com/parcs_jardins

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:47 Page40

AROMAS SAINT-GUILHEM - MINERVE

Each year, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert (Hérault) receives 700,000 visitors, awestruck by its Romanesque Abbey.

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, graceandbeauty

long the A75 motorway on the way to Gignac, the country suddenly displays its true colours, with its incredible open-air Way of the Cross and its 17th century church of Notre-Dame-de-Grace. Here, legend has it that the Virgin restored the senses of a blind, deaf and dumb man! The experience of tourists is not that dissimilar as they enter this valley of marvels, awestruck by its grace and beauty. Your eyes are drawn constantly upwards: villages touch the sky all around, perched on their pioch or knoll as if set in green jewellery boxes, or coiled around a church or a Château. The incomparably mystical village of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert has shone forth through the ages, ever since the time of the great mediaeval pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela. It was here that in the year 1000, pilgrims converged from the East and Italy towards Spain, stopping at the Abbey of Gellone (804), after passing through Saint-Gilles and Montpellier. This jewel of Romanesque art, part of whose cloisters are now on display in the Cloister Museum in New York (USA), is home to the relics of Saint-Guilhem and fragments of the true cross of Christ (a gift from Charlemagne!) Today’s devotees have traded in their pilgrim’s staffs for sturdy hiking boots. The GR 653 draws tourists in their thousands to the Via Tolosana (the Arles itinerary) as it winds across scrubland and through olive groves. Since 1959, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert has also been inscribed on Unesco’s World Heritage list, as part of the route to Santiago de Compostela.

And since June 2010, the village, along with Infernet cirque, the Hérault gorges and the caves at Clamouse has been listed as a Great French Site. With its incredible diversity of calcite and aragonite crystals, this cavity, considered as one of the finest in France, transfixes the tourists who come to explore its 900 metres of open galleries. The spirit of St Guilhem, gallant knight and founder of the Abbey who died in 812, hovers

over this valley alive with legends. Meanwhile, the immediate approaches to Saint-Guilhem are a paradise for nature lovers, faced with a range of choices from hiking, off-road cycling, bathing, canoeing and kayaking to fishing in the live waters of the Hérault which twist and turn under the village. www.sunfrance.com/stguilhem www.saintguilhem-valleeherault.fr

Minerve,fatal beauty with a sorry destiny To some, it seems to lie low in the limestone plateaux, while to others it appears surrounded by gorges cowed by the confluence of the Brian and Cesse rivers.This unmissable mediaeval site is a stone’s throw from the Corbières and the Upper Languedoc regional park. The city, hard against the Cévennes foothills of the Black Mountain, once thought itself impregnable. « No Château, except for Termes and Cabaret, was stronger than Minerve » said a chronicler at the time of the drama.The Perfect Ones, the name given to the Cathars, who followed rules based on notions of Good and Evil stricter than those of the Church, which considered the movement a heresy to be stamped out, were nevertheless trapped by Simon de Montfort in 1210.Weakened by thirst and illness, Guillaume, the Lord of Minerve, capitulated after a seven-week siege. In this wild landscape, the Perfect Ones refused to renounce their faith and were thus sent to the bonfire, the first mass pyre in the war against the Albigensians. The city’s history and background make it a key element of the story of the Crusades.The town retains its graceful vaults and natural bridges hewn in limestone, as grandiose as the town’s history is sombre. The generous city gave its name to the Minervois, the land of wine growers. It is also to a couple of winegrowers that we owe the existence of the Hurepel museum in the village of Minerva, which tells the story of the tragic episode of the Occitan Cathars through a series of clay figures. A walk through the narrow streets of this village haunted by memories takes you past enclosures, fortified gates, posterns, cobbled streets, towers and the remains of the Château.The sober and pure décor of the church of St Etienne, the house of the Knights Templar, the martyrs’ monument and the dove of light hewn in the rock by local artist Jean-Luc Séverac never fail to enchant passers-by. Hurepel Museum, rue des Martyrs, Minerve. Tel. 04 68 91 12 26. www.sunfrance.com/minerve SUDDEFRANCE - 40 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:47 Page41

AROMAS SALAGOU - HAUT LANGUEDOC

Salagou,alunarparadise Created in 1969 on a former river bed, the Salagou reigns supreme in this land of ochre, its red stones or “ruffes” framing the ubiquitous water.

elcome to the artificial lake and valley of Salagou. This basalt rock-fill dam was built on the little Salagou river engulfed the surrounding hamlets and locals say that when the wind is up, you can still hear the sound of the sunken church bells… But forty years after the waters poured in, the place is a little paradise. The “Grand Rouge” as it’s known, created in 1969 by the authorities to irrigate the valley and enable the reconversion of the vineyards into orchards, has plenty of admirers! In this ochreous valley, the “ruffes” (a red clay rich in iron oxide) call to mind the desert stretches of Arizona or Africa and more and more people come to enjoy the pleasures of this magnificent lake. A real inland sea with its 125 million m3 of water, the Salagou stretches over 7.5 km in a landscape bordered by strange hills, in fact former volcanoes. Poplars, ash and willows lazily overhang the reed marshes, under the curious gaze of great-crested grebes. In just forty years, this arid lunar site has become a Mecca for nature lovers and keen swimmers, come to cool off in the heat of the day (in summer, the water temperature reaches 28 degrees). The lake, over which two winds frequently blow, the Tramontana and the Marine, is frequented by dedicated sailors and lovers of all sliding

water sports (motor boats are banned). This spot beloved of fun-boarders is also the realm of the catamaran, the optimist, the pedalo and the canoe-kayak. The crowd of amateur yachtsmen on the lake mingle with fishing enthusiasts from all across Europe! Because the Salagou is such a popular fishing spot and as those species deliberately introduced when the lake was created have adapted tremendously well, the waters are now frequented by carnivorous fish, carp, zander, pike and a host of other “fine specimens”. Meanwhile, the valley’s geological distinctiveness makes this a

favourite hunting ground for ramblers and off-road bikers alike: there are 8 signposted circuits and 4 levels of difficulty for those keen to explore the immediate surroundings. Hikes on foot or on horseback are another way of approaching this red landscape with its distinctive flora and fauna. Beyond lie hamlets, chapels, dry stone huts and unfailingly beautiful landscapes. Further afield lie the limestone peaks of the Mourèze cirque, surrounded by the authentic villages of Clermontl’Hérault: Liausson, Octon, Salasc, Celles and le Puech all beckoning you to discover the Upper Pays d’Oc region.

A unique and diverse countryside What do the Caroux range, the Black Mountain (pictured), the Lacaune mountains, the Orb mountains, the Lakes Plateau, the Sidobre and the Mediterranean scrubland have in common? They all form part of the Upper Languedoc Regional Nature Park, created in 1973 in the mid-mountain zone. Half way between Midi-Pyrénées and LanguedocRoussillon, this remarkable series of landscapes is influenced by a dual Mediterranean and Atlantic climate, which explains its great diversity in terms of natural life : chestnut groves, peat bogs, moors, gorges (especially the Héric), lakes and rivers, waiting to be explored all year round. Whether you are a hiker or more interested in gourmet tourism (salt meat and fish, pork, honey and wine), the Upper Languedoc mountains are a unique feature of the French tourist landscape and an eco-tourist paradise. www.parc-haut-languedoc.fr SUDDEFRANCE - 41 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:47 Page42

AROMAS PÉZENAS - LODÈVE

The Republic’s Carpets

Pézenas, thegentle touch ofLanguedoc Pézenas abounds with rich mansions and roads paved with history.

rts and crafts, from dance to theatre and music, dominate this town which the Montmorency family and the Prince Conti, governors of Langudeoc, made their capital. The reputation of Pézenas (Hérault) still thrives thanks to its thirty or so resident creative artists, costumiers, puppeteers, wrought iron workers, stonemasons and cabinetmakers. Besides its mansions such as the Hôtel de Peyrat, the town offers a real welcome to arts professionals from both theatre and heritage backgrounds, but Pézenas is also equally comfortable with the memory of both Molière and Boby Lapointe. The town has

They may well adorn the floors of ministries, foreign embassies and the Elysée palace, but they travel all the way from Lodève (Hérault)! Every year since 1966, when they came under state control, the workshops of the “Savonnerie de Lodève” produce special carpets which are then added to the National Furniture collection. At Lodève, around thirty heddle-setters make these hand-knotted carpets based on the designs of contemporary artists (Paulin, Hadju, Lalane, Morellet, etc.) or re-editions of pieces from the 17th, 18th or 19th centuries. This high-warp tapestry tradition was revived in 1962 with the arrival of the wives of harkis, Algerian soldiers loyal to the French during the war of Independence. From 1964 a weaving workshop was established by the Ministry of the Interior to employ thirty of these women, who were outstanding weavers, gradually replacing their Algerian techniques with the highwarp tradition. The Lodève workshop is open to the public.

also attracted a sizeable group of secondhand goods dealers and there are annual fairs from May to October. Its history is dotted with important characters. Jean-Baptiste Poquelin, aka Molière, arrived in Pézenas in 1650. He spent three months entertaining the Languedoc States General and returned for two more visits in 1653 and 1656. This stopover town proved important for Molière, whose Dom Juan is in fact a portrait of the Prince de Conti, his patron at Pézenas. Some other characters from his plays were also based on certain locals such as the Abbe Rouquette, the Prince’s confessor, who was the inspiration for Tartuffe. Over the following centuries, real movements and monuments to Molière emerged, leading the town to develop a whole cultural policy based on the dramatist’s work.

Using the latest 3D technology within the magnificent setting of the Hôtel de Peyrat, Pézenas has developed an entertaining and educational five-act insight into the eventful life of Moliere. The décor in each room represents a slice of the life of Molière, his troupe, his era, rather like a film portraying a three-dimensional drama in 55 minutes. This sensory spectacle is ideal for the family. Open all year round, disabled access is available on reservation. The journey begins every 15 minutes.

www.sunfrance.com/pezenas www.pezenas-tourisme.fr

Tel. 04 67 98 35 39. www.scenovisionmoliere.com

SUDDEFRANCE - 42 -

National Savonnerie Carpet Factory, impasse des Liciers, 34700 Lodève. Tel 04 67 96 41 34.

The 3D Molière Scenovision

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:48 Page43

AROMAS CATHAR COUNTRY The castles of Minervois and the Corbières appear still to this day to protect the lands of Cathar country, lands which have forever marked the history and the scenery of Aude.

dissident form of Christianity, spread by preachers, Catharism quickly gained numerous followers within Languedoc and then soon became acknowledged by the landed gentry, who set up dioceses in Toulouse, Carcassonne, Albi and Agen. To counter the religion’s expansion, which refuted the dogmas and authority of the Catholic Church, Pope Innocent III embarked upon the Albigensian Crusade in 1208. Headed by Simon de Montfort, the Crusaders massacred the entire population of Béziers. Carcassonne, Minerve and Lastours fell one after the other and the lands of Toulouse stood vanquished. The Treaty of Meaux (1229) put an end to this holy war, yet the inquisition continued to hunt down heretics, who took refuge in the fortified villages of Minervois and Corbières. There raged a battle for southern independence from the kingdom of France. The Cathar episode would end in the fall of these strongholds and the return of Languedoc to the crown. This is the story retold by the Cathar castles today. Peyrepertuse, Puivert, Aguilar, Termes, Puilaurens and Quéribus

Open-hearted heritage figuring amongst the most impressive. Both towering and ethereal, the remains of these fortresses seem suspended on these rocky peaks, bursting from the rocks to which they cling, whilst the crenulated walls still radiate strength to this day. The route of the

Cathar country, from Durban to Lagrasse, promises a journey into the heart of its history, its “good men” and the monuments that retell its past. The Inter-communal Tourist Office Corbières Sauvages. Tel. 33 (0)4 68 45 69 40.

Pech de Bugarach, the spur of all legends… For the longest time, the Pech de Bugarach was only known by hiking enthusiasts. At an incredible 1,230 m in height, the rocky spur is, in effect, the highest peak of Corbières, with the splendid spectacle of the Pyrenees, Haute-Vallée and the plains of Aude. Surging from the innermost depths of the earth, it stands alone. This peak, which in former times went by the name of “Pech de Tauzé”, possesses a wealth of minerals, further contributed to by the surrounding forests and grasslands. However, situated not far from Rennes-le-Château, the strangest of myths have long circled about this limestone summit. Some even claimto have seen UFOs, entering and exiting the mountain. Pech de Bugarach has been a land steeped in myth for many years. But, for the last two years, many people have come to believe that this is the very spot that will witness the end of the world. According to a strange rumour, first launched on the Internet, based on the Mayan calendar, the apocalypse is scheduled for 21st December 2012 and only one area will be spared, Pech de Bugarach. Since this story started circulating, the little village at the foot of the rock, with a mere 200 inhabitants, has been somewhat perturbed by those of esoteric beliefs and other eccentrics awaiting the end of the world, much to the dismay of the mayor. Maybe another reason to climb up to the top...

SUDDEFRANCE - 43 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:48 Page44

THE ŒNO CIRCUIT A SUBLIME BLEND OF PRESTIGE AND MODERNITY

•

Cathar country dazzles with the beauty and ruggedness of its lands, its history and ancient vines. The Corbières appellation is a maze of geographical treasures. It produces wines of character, mirroring that of the winegrowers who put so much effort into producing it. Take a voyage of discovery to prestigious and modern places of interest, where a certain air of renewal captures the Corbières spirit.

Savour the famous vintage “3”, or their two latest wines, with names which need no explanation: “Vavavoum!” and “Avoid driving or operating heavy machinery”. Cellar tour and tasting: Daily from 10.00 a.m. to 12.00 p.m. and from 3.00 p.m. to 6.00 p.m. Cave de Castelmaure, route des Canelles in Embres-et-Castelmaure. Tel. 04 68 45 91 83. www.castelmaure.com

• 6

•

ÉES- S PYRÉN TALE ORIEN 2

•

The very best in southern cuisine Wine-tasting and motor-sports at the Château de Lastours Visit the astonishing, futuristic wine storage house, a cuboid shape, half buried in earth-coloured concrete with a massive glass facade bestowing upon visitors a tremendous vista over Corbières and the surrounding lands. For the thrill-seekers among you, take a 4x4, quad-bike or buggy over the scrublands. Feeling a little peckish? This site prides itself on its luxury, prizewinning restaurant and guesthouse.

1 Château de Lastours in Portel-des-Corbières. Tel. 04 68 48 64 74. www.chateaudelastours.com

Share a joke and a glass of wine at a growers’ cooperative « Our vineyards are perched at the ends of the earth »… that’s for sure! But in the centre of the village, the cooperative’s cellar (both modern and simple) has become an absolutemust-see. They live and work in the most heavenly of valleys, and their wines certainly reflect this. Their brightly coloured bottles are indeed proof of the happy situation in which these are wines are produced.

3 Welcome to Gilles Goujon’s guesthouse, a famed regional 3-star restaurant, hidden away in Corbières where you can sample, among other equally delightful dishes, his signature “Carrus egg with the famous truffle of Tricastin on a puree of mushrooms and summer truffles, warmed mini brioche and cappuccino on the side” Mindblowing! An astounding wine-menu with selected wines from the region, and an unpretentious welcome. You will leave this delightful restaurant happy and sated. L’Auberge du Vieux Puits, 5, avenue Saint-Victor in Fontjoncouse. Tel. 04 68 44 07 37. www. aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr

Relax in the Saint-Benoît gardens Relax under the stone vaults at the Spa Garrigae, with an indoor heated pool, hammam, whirlpool, tea rooms... And if you feel you deserve to be really spoilt, opt for one of the massages, where they use locally grown, organic products. Hmmmm! Les jardins Saint-Benoît, route de Talairan in Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse. Tel. 04 68 44 18 70. www.garrigaeresorts.com

Organic treats at the Château de Caraguilhes This 135 hectare vineyard is surrounded and protected by a further 500 hectares of scrubland,

SUDdeFrance - 44 -

SUDDEFRANCE - 44 -

4 constituting a rich ecosystem and unique environment. It is the largest producer of organic wines in Corbières. Their wines are sophisticated, velvety and voluptuous; examples include their “Solus 2010”. Tasting sessions at the castle (a former dependency of the Abbaye de Fontfroide) are organised daily, and at weekends upon reservation. Château de Caraguilhes in Saint-Laurentde-la-Cabrerisse. Tel. 04 68 27 88 99. www. caraguilhes.fr

Venture through the soul of Corbières Take the opportunity to admire the magnificent lands of Corbières, whether in VillerougeTermenes, a mediaeval village with its mighty fortress erected imposingly among the wild scenery, russet hills and vines, or Lagrasse (the former capital of Corbières) and its SainteMarie abbey. A little further afield in Mayronnes, you will find a footpath decorated with sculptures – take an artistic stroll in the heart of a rural idyll.

Eat, drink and be merry Some high-class establishments for relaxing evenings and overnight stays to leave you feeling fully rejuvenated: • Guesthouse and restaurant: Château de Lastours in Portel-des-Corbières • Guesthouse: La demeure de Roquelongue in Saint-Andréde-Roquelongue. www. demeure-de-roquelongue.com • Guesthouse and gastronomic restaurant: L’Auberge du Vieux Puits in Fontjoncouse • Suites, house rentals and restaurant Les jardins Saint-Benoît in Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:48 Page45

AROMAS CANIGOU - THE YELLOW TRAIN

LeCanigou, amajorCatalansite

Canigou Peak is the jewel of the Catalan region. Soaring to 2,784 metres, it is the site of several local curiosities.

he Canigou (Pyrénées-Orientales) is shrouded in legend and attracts hordes of visitors each year. Its winding paths offer a wide range of walks, just as accessible to Sunday walkers as to the hardiest ramblers. A wide cross-section of Roussillon’s historical curiosities were built here, just 5 km from the sea, such as the abbey of Saint-Martin-du-Canigou, founded in the 10th century by a Count from Cerdagne and perched at an altitude of 1096 m. Or the Priory of Serrabone, whose gallery with its pink marble detail represents a veritable masterpiece of Roussillon Romanesque

art. But above all it provides a fascinating belvedere. It is said that its summit can be seen from Barcelona, and even from Marseille on a clear day. One of its finest traditions takes place the weekend before St John’s Day, a few days before the 24th June. Known as the Trobade, it brings together all those who love the Canigou. They come to climb up to the summit, laden with firewood and bundles of sticks, and bearing messages of hope and peace. On the 23rd June, the eve of St John, one of them carries the original flame, traditionally kept in the Castillet in Perpignan. That night, at midnight, the famous Flame of

TheCanaryofCerdagne The Yellow Train is another Catalan institution, chuffing along the highest railway in France, without a rack. It was created in 1910 to link the mountainous regions of the Eastern Pyrenees, on the high plateaux of Cerdagne and Capcir. It also serves Bolquère, the highest SNCF station in France, perched at an altitude of 1592 metres. The picturesque journey begins in Villefranche-de-Conflent where it reconnects with the main SNCF network. It then serves several Catalan villages along a 62 km route, such as Mont-Louis, Odeillo-Via-FontRomeu, Saillagouse or Osseja, finishing its journey in Latour-de-Carol. In summer, visitors flock to take this emblematic train with its average speed of 30 kph, and take in the magnificent surrounding countryside as it unfurls. www.ter-sncf.com SUDDEFRANCE - 45 -

Canigou is finally relit. Pilgrims spend the night al fresco enjoying the warm atmosphere. The blaze on the peak can be seen from several villages round about. On the day itself, walkers take the flame and head back down the tracks in a stunning torchlight procession. It is then taken to the villages to feed the fires of St John. www.sunfrance.com/canigou

First the yellow train, now the red train! The former Axat-Rivesaltes route, which crosses a section of Cathar country and the entire comarca of Fenouillèdes, has also been given a new breath of life. Stretching over 660 km, passing over mountains and forestry, this railway journey (approximately 3 hours) gently rambles through a number of charming little villages - Lapradelle, Caudiès-de-Fenouillèdes, Maury, Estagel and Espira-de-l’Agly before finally arriving at its destination in Rivesaltes, near Perpignan. Train - Cathar Country and Fenouillèdes. Tel. 04 68 20 04 00. www.tpcf.fr

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:48 Page46

AROMAS MENDE

AROMAS TOWNS

Mende, the epicentre of Lozère

n the upper valley of the Lot in the Grands Causses region, Mende (Lozère) has been touched by the hand of history. It remains an astonishing experience to arrive at the foot of the Basilica Cathedral of Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Privat (built in the 14th century at the behest of Guillaume de Grimoard, who in 1362 became the 6th Pope of Avignon under the name of Urbain V), not least for the contrast between this imposing building dominating the centre of the old town and the local houses huddled all around, with their shale stone roofs. Such was the former excess and grandeur of a town which was an episcopal see until the Revolution. In the 16th century, Mende was one of the richest dioceses in the Languedoc. But the ecclesiastical principality fell on dark times, hence its motto; “The darkness hath not vanquished me”. Assailed and taken in 1579 by the troops of the Huguenot captain Merle, the town was for the most part burned and razed to the ground. However, those who visit the little town today are in for a surprise. The population is growing, universities and training centres have decided to set up there, along with non-polluting industries. Benefitting from the boom, Mende has embellished its boulevards, narrow streets lined with ancient buildings and its image as a “country town”. Enjoy the old centre, at the foot of the mountains with their numerous gushing springs, winding their way down through gardens and the prairies of the sparse walled towns. Channelled and feeding into the town’s underground water system, these springs resurface around the old wash house and in the many fountains which dot its streets. Mende is an excellent starting point for visiting the Grands Causses region, or Mt Mimat which overlooks it, with its imposing thick pine forests. This sports-mad town is also the scene of many events, such as the Trèfle Lozérien (an international all-terrain motor rally), car rallies, the Grande Fête du Sport (late June every second year) and the Marvejols half-marathon… www.sunfrance.com/mende - www.ot-mende.fr

For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.sunfrance.com/villes

SUDDEFRANCE - 46 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:48 Page47

AROMAS NÎMES

Nîmes,asouthern town celebratingitsdifference With its glorious ancient history and important role in the history of Protestantism, Nîmes is proud of its heritage and cultivates its difference, against the backdrop of a unique lifestyle.

aced with a choice between Protestant rigour and Camargue exuberance, Nîmes (Gard) opted for both. This multi-coloured city with a history stretching back over 2,500 years is both extravert and secret. Nîmes became a colony under the Roman Empire and was covered in sumptuous monuments, a sign of the city’s importance. The Magne tower, part of the Roman walls, the Maison Carrée, a temple which dominated the ancient city’s forum, the Temple of Diana and the Old Roman Baths, Augustus Gate and of course the Arènes (amphitheatre) are all permanent witnesses to this golden age. Not to mention the castellum, the arrival point for the Pont du Gard -

the aqueduct built to supply the city with water, which remains an unrivalled monument to this day. No other French city can boast such a heritage. These elegant and grandiose ruins are the pride and joy of a town which continues to live with its history. Take the amphitheatre for example - built in the first century AD, and measuring 133 metres long and 21 metres high. It hosted ancient games and 2,000 years later still constitutes the beating heart of the city when concerts and operas are staged there, but also during the famous Whitsun and September Ferias. While over 10,000 spectators throng to the stone terraces to watch the bullfighting, the city’s streets heave with tens of thousands come to revel in the event, in a unique atmosSUDDEFRANCE - 47 -

Crocodiles in Nîmes So how exactly did this scaly creature find itself on the town’s coat of arms? The story starts with a coin, minted in Nîmes in the Gallo-Roman era: To celebrate Anthony’s victory against Cleopatra, Emperor Augustus commissioned a coin. It was embossed with Anthony his son-in-law, Agrippa, on the “heads” side of the coin and a crocodile with a palm leaf on the ‘tails’ side, symbolising Egypt’s submission. Henceforth, the crocodile became the symbol of the city and from 1536 the official emblem of Nîmes. As an interesting aside, above the main staircase in the town hall, 4 stuffed crocodiles have long been mounted on the ceiling. Even the city’s football team is known locally as “The Crocodiles”.

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:48 Page48

AROMAS NÎMES

phere which is half Spain, half Camargue. Mischievous Roman Nîmes also has a Mediterranean side to its character, with loud conversations shouted from one café terrace to another, a renowned covered market with over a hundred stallholders and talented craft workers, streets lined with nettle trees and plane trees perfect for a stroll and tucked-away squares like the Ilot Littré. The town also has a discreet side, as in the elegant 18th century buildings housing the HSP - the High protestant Society, in the La Fontaine district where the nobility of the interior courtyards near the gardens of the

same name surpasses expectations. Nîmes may be protective of its past but also knows how to live in the present. Despite its rich heritage, it is also a fertile ground for the great names in architecture, which have given rise to epoch-making buildings such as Jean Nouvel’s Nemausus, and above all the Carré d’Art, whose daring design by Norman Foster echoes the Maison Carre. A perfect symbol of the city and the never-ending dialogue between past and present. www.sunfrance.com/nimes www.ot-nimes.fr

Were jeans originally from Nîmes? At the end of the Renaissance, as in all regions at the time, Nîmes was an industrial city, whose main produce was wool, gathered from the hinterlands and fabricated into superbly high-quality sheets. From the 17th century onwards, drapers of Nîmes started importing Egyptian cotton to produce a woven twill, which they dyed blue. This Nîmes twill had an extraordinarily excellent reputation for being very hard-wearing. In terms of volume, production levels in Nîmes were almost as high as in the city of Genoa, where the industry flourished from the 16th century. This sturdy fabric was used to manufacture sails and tarps. In 1853 as the Gold Rush was starting to thrive in the west of America, a young German immigrant, by the name of Levi Strauss, was selling tents and tarps made of the Italian material to the gold prospectors. He then happened upon the idea of tailoring trousers and dungarees for the workers, fashioning them out of this very same material. Very quickly, the trousers took on the name of this material – jeans – from the city name, Genoa. However, around 1860, Levi Strauss took the decision to replace the heavy, Italian fabric with something a little more flexible, something with a cotton weave: the famous Nîmes twill. And in very much the same way that “Genoa” or (“Gênes”, in French) became “jeans”, Nîmes’ became “denim” (“de Nîmes” = “from Nîmes”, in French), a name that has very much stood the test of time and is still used today to describe the ubiquitous “blue jeans”.

SUDDEFRANCE - 48 -

A “square” in the town centre Its name may well be “Maison Carrée” (Square House), but it is far from square ! In fact, it measures 26 m long and only 15 m wide. So why the name? Because in Latin, the name really denotes a rectangular shape. Built in the very earliest years of the Christian era, the monument was dedicated to the “Princes of Youth” and in particular to the adoptive sons of the Emperor Augustus, the first Roman Emperor, who made Nîmes a sort of showcase Roman colony, creating sumptuous public buildings, including this astonishing sanctuary. Inspired by the Temple of Apollo in Rome, the Maison Carree is one of the Roman world’s best preserved temples. And the diverse uses to which it has been put by its various owners have ensured its survival down the centuries. Used uninterruptedly since the 11th century, the Maison Carree has served variously as a Consular House, a stable and a departmental archive. In the 16th century, the Duchess of Uzès is even said to have wanted it to serve as a mausoleum for her and her husband! A museum since 1823, the temple, which is thought to have inspired the designers of the Madeleine in Paris, has undergone a painstaking facelift, finished in early 2011. The result has been not only a surprising rediscovery of the building’s purity but also a reinterpretation of its role. Today the Maison Carrée hosts a 3D film called “The Princes of Youth”, which plunges the visitor into the city’s rich history, from the days of the gladiators to those of the matadors.

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:48 Page49

THE ŒNO CIRCUIT A STROLL THROUGH THE SHALE SOIL APPELLATION OF FAUGÈRES The Faugères appellation celebrates its 30 year anniversary this year. So take this opportunity to explore the 7 villages within this winegrowing area, built on homogenous shale soil. Today, 30% of appellations produce biodynamic, natural and organic wines, generally derived from an increasingly growing “younger” generation of vines.

4 5 2

• •

•

ULT HÉRA

•

Autignac, home of the appellation’s President The number one wine-growing village within the Béziers appellation. Not to be missed: the ancient castle ruins (of the fortified town), the parapet walk and Saint-Martin’s church. Make an appointment to visit the appellation’s presidents, François and Nathalie Caumette, who will be more than happy to introduce you to their love of the wines of Faugères, discuss conservation of the area, vine-growing methods and organic production (please don’t forget to book). Domaine l’Ancienne Mercerie, 6, rue de l’Egalité in Autignac. Tel. 04 67 90 27 02. www. anciennemercerie.fr

Panorama in Cabrerolles A pretty little village between plains and peaks. Not to be missed: the former feudal stronghold of Cabrerolles and the parish church of Saint-Amand. Take the organised walk, also a pleasant outing – It follows a path through the village, climbing up to the fortified walls and the Notre-Dame-de-laRoque chapel (panoramic vista). Then time for a relaxing break at La Liquière, where a wonderfully warm welcome awaits you with the Vidal family and there extensive wine cellar. Domaine Château la Liquière, at La Liquière. Tel. 04 67 76 90 66. www.chateaulaliquiere.com

Wooden lagar in Caussiniojouls A striking village of narrow streets and floral gardens, leading up to the mediaeval castle. At the entrance to the castle, you will come across the Saint-Etienne church, which dates back to the 16th century.Visit the Domaine de Cébène, where Brigitte Chevalier is your host and has a friendly welcome in store for you as you, take a tour of her small wine storage house, right in the heart of the village. By appointment, she will gladly take the time to show you around her unusual vineyard, which stands at an altitude of 300 metres and faces full north… and her wooden lagar… Domaine de Cébène, in Caussiniojouls. Tel. 06 74 96 42 67. www.cebene.fr

Tasting tour on foot - Faugères Faugères, a village within the Regional Nature Park in Haut Languedoc with its tangled maze of narrow, winding streets and their extraordinary Saracen vaults, 16th century windmills and “capitelles” (shepherd shelters), also known as “carabelles”. The town also boasts a dramatic panoramic view, observation post and picnic spot. If you fancy a stroll at an easy pace; take the route from Moulins de Faugères (90 minutes): “Le petit chemin des Carabelles” (“The little road of Carabelles”).Then why not uncover the delights of a 19th century residence and 40 of the appellation’s vineyards! A wonderful wine awaits within Faugères itself (Domaine Les Amants de la Vigneronne), managed by Régine and Christian Gaudefroid. Please book ahead if you want to sample their charcuterie and cheese dishes. (€ 12). It is also possible to extend you stay, with rooms available and the additional luxury of a private pool (€ 79 bed and breakfast) For further information on the walking tour, please do not hesitate to contact the local tourist information office: Tel. 04 67 98 54 73. Celliers de la vigneronne, 18, route de Pézenas in Faugères. Tel. 04 67 95 78 49. www.lecellierdelavigneronne.com

4 SUDDEFRANCE SUDdeFrance -- 49 49 --

Scenic views and tasting sessions in Roquessels An unusual village built in the form of an amphitheatre at the foot of a steep rock upon which stands the a 10th century feudal castle. Take the hiking trail up to the Notre-Dame chapel (exceptional views). Château des Peyregrandes, Chemin de L'Aire in Roquessels. Tel. 04 67 90 15 00. www.chateaudespeyregrandes.com

“Floral” Fos Take a stroll in the floral streets of the old town. Visit the former coal plant, now restored, and gain a vivid impression of what pre-industrial mining must have been like. Also well worth a look, the “Clos de l’Aire”, a vine conservatory, where you can gain a real insight into the world of winemaking on this truly educational visit. Created and devised by Luc and Françoise of the Domaine Ollier Taillefert, the fifth generation of a long-line of winemakers of the finest vintages. Domaine Ollier Taillefert, the road to Gabian in Fos. Tel. 04 67 90 24 59. www.olliertaillefer.com

Tapas and overnight stays in Laurens Indulge in a well-cooked meal and take some time for yourself in the “Cité du Laurier” (‘City of Laurels’) at the Sylva Plana abbey. Wine tasting in their magnificent cellars and superb dining facilities with tapas menus starting at € 15 or set menus from € 20 (weekday lunchtimes - low season and Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings throughout the summer). Rooms also available (€ 80). L’abbaye Sylva Plana, 13, on the old road to Bédarieux in Laurens. Tel. 04 67 93 43 55. www. vignoblesbouchard.com Château de Grézan, a castle built in the Gothic revival style, known locally as “Little Carcassonne”. Wine-tasting:04 67 90 27 46. www.chateau-grezan.fr Overnight stays at the castle (€ 98 with breakfast included). Tel. 04 67 90 28 03. www.grezan.com

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:49 Page50

A relatively youthful city compared to its 2,000 plus year-old neighbours, Montpellier (Hérault) has grown and continues to grow with unusual dynamism.

riginally a small collection of rural hamlets a few dozen kilometres from the GalloRoman centres of Nîmes and Narbonne, the town of Montpellier came into existence in 985 CE. Located near the Via Domiziana and the route to Santiago de Compostela, with a port at Lattes, the town grew as a trading post, drawing in pilgrims and travellers and giving the city a cosmopolitan feel from the outset. This in turn led to the development of an intellectual base which resulted in the creation of the kingdom’s first renowned medical faculty, whose alumni include Nostradamus and Rabelais. The botanical gardens adjoining the University, created in 1953 by Henry IV for the cultivation of medicinal plants, are also the oldest in France. Montpellier’s prosperity grew exponentially over more than two centuries, initially through the town’s founders, the Guilhem family, and then as a possession of the Kingdom of Aragon following the marriage of Marie de Montpellier to Pierre II of Aragon, which led to the establishment of the Charter of 1204, granting the govern-

SUDDEFRANCE - 50 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:49 Page51

AROMAS MONTPELLIER

Montpellier, a shining example of Languedoc at its best

ment of the city to 12 elected bourgeois. But during the Hundred Years War, the city suffered serious setbacks and fell into decline. It would gain a new lease of life under the influence of Jacques Coeur, appointed King’s Commissioner to the States General of Languedoc in 1441 and charged with reviving the local economy. The wars of religion were another calamitous period, during

which many of the city’s Catholic and Protestant churches in turn were burnt to the ground. The Enlightenment proved a happier period for Montpellier, thanks especially to Jean-Jacques Régis de Cambacères, a native of the city who after studying law there became a member of the Revolution Convention and was the kingpin of the Civil Code requested by Napoleon. The city was some-

The sporting capital of France BMX biking, rollerblading, slope-style mountain biking… it seems that the number of sports available to enjoy in this town multiply year by year. For over 6 years, Montpellier has hosted the International Festival of Extreme Sports, more commonly known as FISE. Along the riverbanks of the Lez, over 4 days, the world and national champions of so many different, exhilarating sports come together in a frenzy of competitions and demonstrations. Montpellier and sport are simply made for each other. The city has just celebrated winning the much sought-after title ‘Sportiest City in France 2011’. In both rugby and handball, the teams of Montpellier monopolise the top places in the leagues. In women’s basketball and water polo, the teams also compete among the elite.This exceptional level of sporting ability in so many disciples is rare for one city to achieve alone. Both the Arena and the Yves-du-Manoir Stadium have significantly invested in ultra-modern sporting facilities and equipment. And in football, the team, sponsored by the Sud de France label, were shining examples of sportsmanship in May, last year, when they won the French Premier League title in front of millions of spectators after an outstanding season!

SUDDEFRANCE - 51 -

what bypassed by the industrial revolution and the region remained agriculture-based, despite the fortune it made from wine-growing in the 19th century. As a small provincial town in the post-war period, Montpellier went through a period of extraordinary growth thanks to two factors. First came the repatriation of the pieds-noirs, (French colonials born in Algeria) - the town capitalised on this demographic opportunity and saw its population double in forty years. Then came the European Head Office of IT giants IBM, which proved an economic accelerator. A university town blessed with sun and sea galore, Montpellier knows how to make the most of its attractiveness while maintaining a people-friendly scale, and therefore regularly tops the lifestyle charts. The historic Ecusson quarter has remained the heart of the town thanks to a large-scale pedestrianisation programme which encourages visitors to stroll and relax. The Fabre Museum, one of France’s top Fine Arts museums, is a sumptuous setting for major works, such as those by Courbet or Delacroix, not to mention the superb hall dedicated to Soulages, which since its reopening has attracted visi-

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:26 Page52

AROMAS MONTPELLIER

Prestigious modern architecture Ricardo Boffil, Paul Chemetov, Christian de Portzamparc, Zaha Hadid, Jean Nouvel… the list of major names in architecture that have stamped their mark on the city of Montpellier is endless. A wealth of stunning design projects started in the dawn of the 1980s with the Catalan architect, Ricardo Bofill who planned and constructed the Antigone district of the city, whose symmetry and lines were clearly conceived to replicate works undertaken in ancient times.The size and shape of the district’s squares were defined by the architect in accordance with geometric laws. His intentions were to emphasise harmony in relation to the number of buildings on the square.To do so, he used the famous “golden number”. Built along an axis 1 km in length, the project enabled the river Lez, whose waters flow into the Palavas Sea, to become a focal point of the city once again. Over the last 30 years, the city has been almost completely remodelled and has won a number of Pritzkers – the architectural equivalent of the Nobel Prize.Among the latest major works in a long line of projects is the renowned Odysseum, the only complex among Mediterranean architectural developments to create a symbiosis between a commercial zone and a traditional open-air mall. It houses a great number of leisure amenities including an icerink, an excellent aquarium, a multiplex cinema etc. Following years of controversy, the site became known as a symbol of the somewhat challenging developments in commercial urbanism. It now attracts more than 1 million visitors per year. Today, town development appears still to be focussed along the banks of the Lez, heading out towards the sea. An eminent symbol of the city is the newly-constructed town hall, an imposing structure designed by Jean Nouvel and François Fontès (photo). Ecological and technologically modern, the building is painted a vibrant blue – the city’s official colour – and changes hue depending on the weather. The brighter the sun, the brighter the blue! Opposite this symbolic building of this ever-expanding city, is the new district, Port-Marianne, which stretches out around the Jacques-Cœur river basin and the new tramway lines which have been expanded and now run all the way down to the Mediterranean coast!

tian de Portzamparc and Claude Vasconi worked in Montpellier, as well as Jean Nouvel who designed the new town hall in the district of Port Marianne. In twenty years, a number of new districts have shot up, pushing the city towards the sea - a territorial expansion accompanied by trams in boisterous colours by great designers (Garouste and Bonetti, Christian Lacroix). Montpellier is literally a city on the move! tors by the thousand. Narrow streets lined with discreet 17th and 18th century mansions criss-cross the centre on their way towards superb buildings such as the Cathedral of St Peter, the Peyrou Gardens with their views over the surrounding countryside, the charming St Anne square or the bustling place de la Comédie with its prosperous 19th century “pâtissier” (cake maker) buildings. Just a little farther on, the charming Arceaux is where bowls-players gather in the shade of the Aqueduct, while the Boutonnet and Beaux Arts districts cultivate a rather trendy village feel. From there, take a gentle stroll to the Saint-Lazare cemetery whose tombs include that of the Queen of Italy, who was exiled here in 1946 after the declaration of the Republic and chose to end her days in Montpellier. It all adds to the relaxed charm of this simultaneously modern and down to earth city. Moreover, the area is home to some well-known wine growing estates with the AOC appellation Grès de Montpellier ! But in Montpellier, classicism and modern urban planning live in harmony in the famous Antigone quarter designed by Ricardo Boffil in the early 1980s. Boffil saw his project as a homage to Antiquity, using compact concrete for his classical forms stretching into the distance. The city became a unique material in the hands of prestigious architects: ChrisSUDDEFRANCE - 52 -

www.sunfrance.com/montpellier www.ot-montpellier.fr

A city and the wide open sea Up until the very end of the 1960s, inhabitants of Montpellier were used to having to travel a dozen kilometres or so before reaching the wide open sea.They achieved this by taking the little steam train from Palavas, since immortalised by the famous illustrator, Dubout.And then Montpellier lost this route to the seaside. Yet, all was not lost forever! Very recently, the public transport system has allowed its passengers to once again venture to the shore. The new No. 3 tram now stops at the Or Lake in Pérols, situated a mere 2.5 km from Carnon and Palavas. In summer, a shuttle bus service runs along the same route. And a more relaxed means would perhaps be to hire a bike with Tam, the new rental scheme in Montpelier. Follow the banks of the Lez and you can be at the beach in less than an hour - the perfect plan for a spot of paddling or swimming, followed by dinner and drinks at one of the many private beaches along the lido of the Petit and the Grand Travers.

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:49 Page53

AROMAS BÉZIERS

Béziers,therebel

Towering over the Orb and the Canal du Midi, the city made rich by vines in the 19th century abounds in hidden treasures.

“Follies” in the vineyards These “Biterrois follies” bear ample witness to the economic boom Béziers experienced thank to its wine culture. While the “Saint-Aramon” vines slaked the thirst of the miners and metal workers of the late 19th century industrial period, outside the town, in an ocean of vines, grew the “Palais de l’Aramonie”. Such wine châteaux mushroomed in the Biterrois countryside, vying with each other in terms of architectural boldness (and occasionally bordering on bad taste). It is said that the profits from a single harvest back then sufficed to fund one of these châteaux, designed by the era’s greatest architects such as Bordeaux’s Garros. Baïssan, La Gayonne (pictured), La Devèze and Lirou count among these “follies”. The Château of Raissac is the only one in the region to market its wines. Restored over 20 years ago in the non-conformist style of its owners, Christine and Jean Viennet, Raissac is also home to an earthenware museum. www.sunfrance.com/raissac

SUDDEFRANCE - 53 -

eemingly inaccessible when viewed from the canal bridge straddling the Orb, Béziers (Hérault) looks down from the lofty heights of its majestic cathedral (St Nazaire), on a history stretching back 27 centuries. To get to the top, the walker can choose from a maze of slopes and staircases climbing the 60 or so metres separating the river from the two hills, the Saint-Jacques and Saint-Nazaire districts on which the town is built. The city, enriched in the second half of the 19th century by the wine boom, jealously guards its architectural treasures; here a Gothic pinnacle, there a Renaissance window and the ubiquitous heavy gates behind which hide sumptuous private mansions, signs of the feverish “folly” which swept through the Biterrois region in the 19th century, a time

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:49 Page54

AROMAS BÉZIERS

A UFO landing pad? No,it’s just a dried up lake!

when the region was all the rage for the Parisian“smart-set”. Saved from mildew and above all phylloxera, and with the help of the Canal du Midi and the arrival of the railways, Béziers became the richest city in Languedoc. The self-proclaimed “world capital of wine” carved out an appropriately immoderate destiny for itself - a past to which the grand Haussmann-style boulevards bear ample witness. The Allées Paul-Riquet, the backbone of the town adorned in 1838 with a statue of Paul Riquet (the work of David d’Angers) and lined with plane trees in 1848 are one example. At each end stands a symbol of success: to the north the splendid Bonbonnière theatre built in 1844 in the Italian style. To the south, the plateau des Poètes is a pleasant English garden, designed by Bűhler. Here, the shady avenues, water features and plashing fountains celebrate one of the region’s most famous sons, the sculptor Injalbert who created a colony of tritons and nymphs around his monumental Titan. Each year, 700,000 visitors walk down the avenues leading towards the Gallo-Roman amphitheatre tucked into the Saint-Jacques district. Or their more modern equivalent,

built in 1905 in the Spanish style by Fernand Castelbon de Beauxhostes, a passionate sponsor of the theatre and the lyric arts. The biggest amphitheatre in France (13,100 seats) plays host to bullfights at the famous Feria on August 15th. This old wine city, full of art, theatre and culture, is the perfect showcase for its own rich heritage. Near the sea, situated at a strategic crossroads at the junction of the A9 and A75 (facilitating access to the uplands) and served by the TGV, Béziers is keen to develop its economic and academic sectors. Besides the builder Pierre-Paul Riquet, resistance fighter Jean Moulin or artist Gustave Fayet, many great men have helped the town to grow. But it is history itself which is primarily responsible for the epithet “Rebellious”. During the first Albigensian Crusade (1209). Arnaud Amaury cried « Massacre them, the Lord will know His Own » which has since become better known in the slightly altered form of « Kill them all, God will know His own ». www.sunfrance.com/beziers www.beziers-tourisme.fr

Montady must be one of the most astonishing landscapes in Languedoc, the archaeological excavation site in Ensérune, near Nissan. A strange circle marked in the soil dominating the field of vision for over 400 hectares, divided up at regular intervals into triangular shaped segments, plots of land formed by vineyards, shaped somewhat like the spokes of a bicycle wheel. The visual effect is due to the ditches dug out to drain water from the central point of this natural basin. From here they are evacuated by a 164 m aqueduct and then open air piping through to the lakes at Poilhes, Capestang and Aude. The site had previously dried up in the 12th century due to a deprivation of water leading to a stagnant, brackish pool. It now displays true poetry in motion, a symbol of the outstanding level of hydraulic systems developed in the Middle Ages, with the additional attraction of the gorgeous changing colours of the vines.

Through the middle flows the Orb The little river, which starts in the Upper Languedoc Nature Park between the mountains of the Carroux and the Espinouse and plunges into the deep blue sea at Valras, has lent its name to a miraculous valley. The Orb winds through 135 km of magnificent landscapes in the Biterrois countryside. A string of villages marks its progress on its way to the gorges: Lamalou-Les-bains, Hérépian, Bédarieux, Poujol-sur-Orb, Puisserguier - each of which is well worth a visit. Between Vieussan and Roquebrun is the most steeply embanked part of the river, where the refreshing green waters of the gorges are popular with kayakers and bathers throughout the summer. Down below, Roquebrun is known as the “Little Nice” of the upper cantons on account of its exceptional climate. The village abounds with mimosas and orange trees. Such typically Mediterranean plant life can be discovered at the “Mediterranean gardens”, a veritable conservatory of medicinal and aromatic plants. Discover, amongst others, an impressive collection of succulents, cacti, exotic plants (4,000 plants representing 400 species), which flourish here thanks to the passion of a few gardeners.

SUDDEFRANCE - 54 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:49 Page55

AROMAS NARBONNE

Narbonne, betweenlandandsea

he reputation of Narbonne (Aude) as a “City of Art and History” is due in no small measure to its strong Roman identity. It was in fact the first Roman city in Gaul, prior even to the conquest of Julius Caesar. Founded in 118 BCE, Narbonne’s geographical location made it a veritable crossroads on the Mediterranean coast. Narbo Martius made extensive use of the Roman-built port, as well as the Via Domiziana, created at the city’s foundation, to link Italy with Spain. This road was originally planned to facilitate traffic between Roman garrisons, but traders soon made it their own and Narbonne became an obligatory stopping-off point. Following the conquest of the Gauls, the town experienced a considerable economic boom, with a flourishing wine,

wheat and ceramic industry. In front of the town hall, admire the paved stretch of the Via Domiziana as it looked in 100 BCE. The route led into the heart of the city via today’s rue de Lattre, crossing place Bistan, the former Roman Forum, before joining the Pont des Marchands above the Robine canal. In Narbonne it is said that the ground still abounds in ancient treasures. Even though most of the Roman monuments have been destroyed, a number of museums and excavation sites keep the memory of Narbo Martius alive. At the Clos de la Lombarde, excavations have been continuing since 1974. Archaeologists have unearthed an entire Roman district complete with thermal baths, roads and houses.A little farther on, on the Town Hall square, the former Archbishop’s Palace SUDDEFRANCE - 55 -

now houses an archaeological museum. On display are a number of objects from Roman history: fresco paintings, mosaics, items of furniture, sarcophagi… the spoils of a painstaking research and excavation process. Another key place to visit is the stone museum, housed in the former church of Notre-Dame-de-Lamourguier. It contains nearly 1,300 Gallo-Roman objects gleaned from the city’s ancient monuments. Finally, deep inside the Horreum museum, the visitor can view the only French example of a Gallo-Roman underground storage warehouse. The level of preservation is astonishing. A true journey back in time! Archaeological museum. Tel. 04 68 90 30 65. www.sunfrance.com/narbonne www.maire-narbonne.fr

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:49 Page56

AROMAS NARBONNE

The Soul of the Covered Market More than just a market, the covered market of Narbonne is one of the city’s nerve centres. Created just 110 years ago, well before today’s shopping centres, this covered market remains more vibrant than ever. Its immense metallic structure is home to more than 70 food-based trades: pork butchers, butchers, cake makers, bars, market gardeners, restaurants… A unique example of the genre, this meeting place is an integral part of local tradition. Down the years it has become a veritable institution. In its passages, among the many stalls, it is said that the market has a soul, a warm spirit. Not to mention 2,800 m2 of enticing aromas, of spices, olives, fresh vegetables, sausage, and even, at the right time, of pastis, because besides heading to the market to do their shopping of course, Narbonne locals also like to while away the hours and meet up with friends there. It’s a charming place, open 365 days a year, where you can linger to your heart’s content.

The Abbey of Fontfroide: from monks to artists Tucked in the middle of the Corbières, the Abbey of Fontfroide is one of the great Narbonne heritage monuments. Founded at the end of the 11th century by Benedictine monks, the abbey became Cistercian in 1145. Its influence rapidly spread beyond the borders of the Aude region - at the time it was considered one of the most important Cistercian Abbeys in Christendom, and a bastion of orthodox Catholicism in a country receptive to Catharist ideas. The monks kept an eye out for troubles, while making wine and watching their flocks. In its heyday in the middle of the 14th century, there were around 20,000 animals at the Abbey. It lost some of its glory in the wake of the French Revolution, when the numbers of monks dwindled. Abandoned for the first time in 1791, its monastic life then experienced a slight recovery at the end of the 19th century. But it did not last, and in 1901, the last monks finally shut up shop. It is largely thanks to the Fayet family, who bought the place in 1908 in a state of disrepair, with crumbling walls, that the Abbey is so well preserved. Madeleine Fayet fell in love with the building and its ancient stones. Gustave Fayet and his wife therefore began a restoration project that took over 10 years. In contrast to the monastic life that had prevailed ten years earlier, the Fayets turned the Abbey into a cultural centre, with artists such as Odile Redon, the sculptor Aritide Maillol or composer Maurice Ravel all passing through, all close friends with Gustave Fayet. In fact, the latter was himself an artist and a major sponsor. His family and that of Odilon Redon were great friends. In 1910, Gustave Fayet asked his friend to decorate the abbey library. It has since been home to two of the famous artist’s greatest paintings, “Day” and “Night”. These days the Abbey is managed by Nicolas d’Andoque, Fayet’s grandson. Abbey of Fontfroide, every day from 10 a.m. to 12.15 p.m., from 1.45 to 4.45 p.m. Admissions : € 3.50 to € 9.50 Tel. 04 68 45 50 71. www.sunfrance.com/fontfroide

Olivia Ruiz,a toast to the talent of Aude! Olivia Ruiz’s 2005 album, “La Femme Chocolat” (“The Chocolate Woman”) won over audiences with its rhythmic, swing-style rock, tongue-in-cheek lyrics, and warm vocals with their south-western French roots. Born in Marseillette, near Carcassonne, she grew up in Narbonne, where from the age of 15 she devoted herself to the theatre and music, creating her own rock group, “Five”. Semi-finalist in “Star Academy” (a French reality TV talent show), she quickly distanced herself from the soft pop image that went with it and forged a career for herself as a quality musician, with a strongdisposition, sensitive heart, energy and lust for life.After her debut album, “J’aime pas l’Amour” (“I don’t love Love”), which earned her a nomination for “Best On-Stage Act” at the Victoire de la Musique 2005 (French music awards) (she would go on to win two prizes 2007 and a further one in 2010), her music rocketed with the album, “La Femme Chocolat”, winning a diamond record (sales certification - one million records sold). This beautiful woman from Aude is going from strength to strength, and remains strongly attached to her Spanish roots, but yet Narbonne will always hold a place in her heart. She still returns to the city from time to time to recharge her batteries and even dedicated a song to the place she loves, “La Petite Valse de Narbonne Plage” (“The Little Waltz of Narbonne Beach”). After “Miss Météores” (Miss Meteors), her third studio album, she embarked on her first cinematic role in 2011 in Martin Valente‘s film, “Un jour mon père viendra” (“My father will return one day”). It is anticipated that she will spoil us with a fourth album some time later this year. SUDDEFRANCE - 56 -

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:49 Page57

AROMAS PERPIGNAN

Perpignan, capitalofFrench Catalonia Its Catalan identity is the very essence of Perpignan (Pyrénées-Orientales). It has become the gateway of choice between Barcelona and France.

ts benefits include its rich blend of cultures and peoples, its Mediterranean façade and the beauty of the surrounding Pyrenees. In Spanish hands for a long period of its history, the town’s golden age came under the Kingdom of Majorca, when it served as the Kingdom’s mainland capital, with plenty of monuments to show for it. The era of the Kings of Majorca, from 1276 to 1344, bequeathed Gothic-style architecture, a palace, a cathedral... The Palace of the Kings of Majorca is one of the town’s emblems. King Jacques II of Majorca ordered it built, and it was completed in 1304 after his death. Both a palace and a fortress, the building was a seat of political power as well as a royal residence and chapel. The Gothic-style Palace also contains a lush garden within its walls, with views over the entire Roussillon plain. The Kingdom of Majorca also marked the birth of another important local heritage monument: the Cathedral of St John the Baptist, in rue de l’Horloge. Work began under the Kings’ rule in 1324. Its base is Gothic, and initial plans included the construction of three naves. In 1344, the fratricidal war against the Kings of Aragon and the Plague, which laid waste to the country, considerably slowed progress. Over the years, the plans were modified, finally resulting in a single large nave, flanked

Salses-le-Château, the northernmost limit of the Catalan region Situated 15 km to the north of Perpignan, the village of Salses-le-Château rejoices not only in the picturesque beauty of its lakes and fishermen’s huts but also in the grandeur of its 15th century fortress. It was built at the behest of King Ferdinand III of Aragon and his wife, Isabelle of Castille, to withstand the attacks of the French, keen to retake Roussillon. The work proceeded in stages between 1497 and 1502. The building has stood the test of time… At the time, its architecture was in fact revolutionary - a design based on mediaeval fortress castles, but with all the technical features of a modern bastion, resistant to metal cannonballs and other new forms of artillery technology. It is a fine example of so-called “transitional” military architecture. With room for over 2,000 men, the fortress is over 115 m long and 90 m wide. It was listed as a historical monument in 1886 and now receives over 100,000 visitors each year. www.sunfrance.com/salses

by chapels and a funerary cloister, the Campo Santo. The first mass was celebrated there in 1509. The city’s other emblem is the Castillet, built in 1368 under the rule of the Kings of Aragon. Their plan was to endow Perpignan SUDDEFRANCE - 57 -

with a fortress to defend against all attacks from the North. After the signature of the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659, Perpignan passed into French hands. This famous red brick fortress then

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:31 Page58

AROMAS PERPIGNAN

became a prison for opponents of the regime. In 1697, the Castillet was officially declared a State prison. At the beginning of the 20th century, the fortifications surrounding the town were demolished to link the centre to the outskirts, but a rare exception

was made for the Castillet. Today it houses the Catalan museum of Popular Arts and Traditions. www.sunfrance.com/perpignan www.perpignantourisme.com

Perpignan station at the centre of the world? The surrealist painter Salvador Dali, a native of Figueras, exclaimed one day that Perpignan station was « the centre of the world ». That was in 1965. Two years earlier, he had had an exceptional cosmic experience there, which suddenly inspired him with the idea of creating stereoscopic 3D canvases. For the artist, a new painting technique was born. From that moment on, he claimed the station was the inspiration for all his great artistic ideas. « It’s always at Perpignan station that I get my best ideas in life. Already a few kilometres ahead, at Boulou, my brain gets into gear, but arriving at Perpignan causes a veritable truly mental ejaculation, reaching sublime speculative heights », he said. The Dali picture “Mystique of the Perpignan station” was one result. It was one of the artist’s recurrent themes. His claims may raise a smile, but they have never ceased to inspire the locals. Dali also decorated the station’s ceiling. And on the platform, you can read an inscription in white letters, informing passengers that the spot on which they stand is indeed “the centre of the world”!

SUDDEFRANCE - 58 -

USAP, the pride of the city The Perpignan sports association, the “Harlequins” dates back 110 years. A major club in the world of rugby union, it has not been relegated from the elite championship league in France in over a century.After a rather uneventful lull throughout the 1970s and 1980s, the club reached the heights of glory again in the 1990s, when it gained professional status. Since then, USAP has reached the final stage of the championship four times and won the tournament against Clermont-Ferrand back in 2009 (22 - 13). With a team made up of several international players, regularly selected for the French team, the USAP – which since 1997 has once again been sporting the colours of its city and the Catalan flag – lives in the heart of the Perpignan people and even has a teamthemed restaurant in the centre of the town. As for the term “Harlequins”, it comes from the fact that at its origins, the team’s first players were very poor and didn’t have the means to buy new kits regularly. This meant they had to resort to patching up old and worn kits with new material, giving them a distinct resemblance to Harlequins!

20-59 SENTEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 09:50 Page59

THE ŒNO CIRCUIT THE VINEYARDS OF ROUSSILLON, MILLENNIA-OLD CUSTOMS Roussillon is a small area with varied landscapes and a great number of wine producers. A local saying goes this « Here, our wine is an ancient secret and the earth has been blessed by the Gods » Wild terrain, sheer limestone cliffs, a pastiche of lands to discover in one of Europe’s very first inhabited valleys.

ÉES- S PYRÉN TALE N ORIE

Homo erectus, vitis vinifera and galloping

•

3•

•

•1

Baixas - Breakfast in the vineyards

1 Over the past three years, managers at the Dom Brial wine cellar have made every effort to ensure that guests, old and young, receive every attention as they are warmly welcomedto the vineyard. Start your day with breakfast in the grounds, in view of the “Crest Petit”, a mosaic of vineyards, so typical of the ancient Mediterranean era, with the vines planted on stake supports. Sitting in front of a dry stone cabin, savour the speciality of the region, “Esmorza” (a Catalan-style breakfast), with the wine-maker, who will select wines for you to sample at his table. (Fridays throughout July and August at 9.00 a.m. - € 15, free for under12s, by appointment only. Length: 2 hours). Another option is to venture alone along the signposted path on the “Vineyard Heritage” walking tour. An audio guide is available (downloadable or direct from the Baixis vineyard). You will learn the secrets of viticulture, the grapes themselves and how they are harvested and turned into wine. At the end of the walk, you reach the highpoint, spectacular 360° views of the Roussillon winegrowing area, the sea, Mont Canigou and the Pyrenees. All absolutely free! Other visits of interest include vineyard tours and wine tasting.

Let us remember that a mere 450,000 years ago, man lived in caves and wine didn’t even exist! But today, ‘If wine could only grow in the one place, it would surely be the valley of Tautavel’. Fossil pollen analysis shows that the vine is very much a part of the history of the valley.To learn more of its origins, take a trip to the museum and browse the 2,000 m2 of exhibits and visual scenography. The first men of Tautavel will no longer be a mystery to you after touring this splendid museum. Follow the original signposts integrated into the museum, creatively designed frescoes and mosaics and learn all there is to know about prehistoric winemakers. Stop off at the ‘Master Winemakers’ cellar situated at the entrance to the museum (wine-tasting, organised family walks among the vines).And if you feel the need for speed, head for the Las Caneilles Ranch and trek on horseback throughout the winegrowing area and the castles of Cathar country.

The Museum of Prehistory, avenue Léon-Jean-Grégory in Tautavel. Tel. 04 68 29 07 76. www.450000ans.com Caveau les Maîtres Vignerons de Tautavel (“Master Winemakers’ Cellar”), 24, avenue Jean-Badia in Tautavel. Tel. 04 68 29 12 03. www.vignerons-tautavel.fr Ranch de Las Caneilles in Tautavel. Tel. 04 68 29 03 41. www.ranchdelascaneilles.com.

4 (from July to August): € 39. This year, don’t miss the exhibition by Olivier Masmonteil in the castle’s contemporary art centre. Château de Jau in Cases-de-Pène. Tel. 04 68 38 91 38. www.chateau-de-jau.com

The “Circus of Vingrau” packs a punch If you really want to see something special, first head towards Espira-de-l’Agly (with its amazing 12th century church), then onto the “Circus of Vingrau”, a unique limestone rock formation, the only one of its kind in the world. A patchwork tableau! If you are lucky enough to be there on the right day, seize your chance and take the “vineyard train” (a 2-hour round trip with tasting session and wine market). For further information: www.tpcf.fr

Eat, sleep and be merry in Rivesaltes, or on the coast

Dine to the sound of grasshopper song Upon your arrival at Château de Jau via a long plane-tree lined road bordered by vineyards, cypresses and olive groves… you will start to hear something... grasshoppers. For over 35 years, visitors have been relishing simple, but exquisite dishes here, typical of Roussillon, in an idyllic setting abound with the colours of Tuscany. All meals are generously served with excellent wines from the area. The price of the lunch menu is set at € 31, including coffee. The evening menu

5 - Auberge (“Inn”) du Domaine de Rombeau, 2, avenue de la Salanque in Rivesaltes. Tel. 04 68 64 35 35. www.domaine-de-rombeau.com. - Restaurant - La Table d’Aimé (Maison Cazes), 4, rue Francisco-Ferrer in Rivesaltes. Tel. 04 68 34 35 77. www.cazes-rivesaltes.com Guest Houses - L’orangerie (“The Orange Grove”), 3T, rue Ludovic-Ville in Rivesaltes. Tel. 04 68 73 74 41. www.maison-hotes-lorangerie.com

Should you wish to stay longer, head towards the coast to the Château de Rey, on the road from Saint-Nazaire to Canet-en-Roussillon.

Vignoble Dom Brial, 14, avenue Joffre à Baixas. Tel. 04.68.64.22.37. www.dom-brial.com

Tel. 04 68 73 86 27. www.chateauderey.com

SUDDEFRANCE - 59 -

SUDdeFrance - 59 -

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:45 Page60

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:45 Page61

The land of contrasts that is LanguedocRoussillon is composed of a mosaic of different landscapes. From mountain-top

FLAVOURS

to the sea, from the high cantons to the Mediterranean, from the Petite Camargue to the Vermillion coastline, they give rise to a smorgasbord of specialities which shape a veritable sun-soaked, refined cuisine. While you are probably already familiar with the Picholine variety of olive, cassoulet from Castelnaudary and Carcassonne, anchovies from Collioure, oysters from the Leucate and Thau lakes, brandade from Nîmes, squid and sweet onions from Cévennes or even Pézenas pasties, the gamut of flavours just keeps on coming. So many products fly the flag for this gastronomic region; in addition Languedoc-Roussillon is favoured with the largest viticultural region on the planet and produces some of the world’s best wines – a joyous area!

For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to : www.sunfrance.com/saveurs

SUDDEFRANCE - 61 -

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:45 Page62

Twenty-seven centuries of history for the world’s biggest winery Wine tourism, A new warmth

Languedoc-Roussillon is the world’s largest vineyard. Its generous climate and the richness and variety of its soils make the land particularly fertile and creative for winegrowing. It is enhanced on a daily basis by an ancestral local expertise combined with cutting-edge production techniques. The Sud de France brand is the hallmark of this, a symbol simplified for the consumer. This veritable “umbrella brand” covering all the wines of Languedoc-Roussillon showcases the region, its know-how and the uniqueness of the Mediterranean soil.

t was daring; and is a success thirty years later, to explore these two parallel tracks that are so complementary. Any winemaker is now eligible for the brand Sud de France and the region has witnessed the development of the generic Languedoc appellation, produced throughout the vineyards of Languedoc-Roussillon, from Nîmes to the Spanish border.

In this mass of vineyards composed of soils with high yields, it took a change of habits - to stop a wasteful flow of wine by lowering the amount produced per hectare - to reach the level of quality achieved today. This quality is soaked in diversity, in a territory which produces sweet fortified wines (Muscat from Frontignan, Lunel, Mireval, Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, Rivesaltes, Banyuls SUDDEFRANCE - 62 -

From ancient times, wine acquired a uniqueness charged with its own significance. “The peoples surrounding the Mediterranean started to emerge from barbarism when they learned how to cultivate the olive tree and the grapevine,” observed the historian Thucydides 2,500 years ago. Heirs of an outof-the-ordinary terrain, the winemakers of Languedoc-Roussillon have seen the benefit of learning their craft and products. From the month of April, the region becomes a paradise for lovers of wine tourism with a multitude of special events which take the form of tastings in unique settings – a wine and food trail with stops along a predefined route. In April, Montepeyroux organises “Toutes caves ouvertes” – an open cellar event and Peyriac-de-Mer and Bages offers a “Five senses route”. In May, AOC Lirac hosts its traditional Jaugeurs gourmet tour while AOC Costières de Nîmes puts on its “Vignes Toquées” (“Crazy Vines”), and the winegrowers from Clape near Narbonne have their “Sentiers Gourmands” (“Gourmet Trails”). In the Pyrénées-Orientales, thanks to an initiative from the wine producers from the village of Calce, “Les caves se rebiffent” (“The cellars rebel”) is held in the middle of the month. The events take place throughout the summer with a great number of wine circuits to explore in the terraces of Larzac, the wandering vines in Pic SaintLoup, and to top it all off, the large wine fair at Uzès.The icing on the cake this year is that the Faugères appellation is celebrating its thirtieth anniversary, culminating on 8th July in the John the Baptist Feast in the village of Faugères – so many unique fun moments.

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:45 Page63

FLAVOURS SUD DE FRANCE WINES

and Maury), sparkling wines (Blanquette and Cremant de Limoux) and an extensive bouquet of reds, whites and multiple roses. For its current reputation, this land of vineyards owes much to the men who built it with a spirit of innovation. Here, wines that were previously mass produced strode for quality born from concepts. To make wine, grape vine by grape vine variety and invite the consumer to discover a shiraz, a cabernet or a sauvignon. This was the initiative of the Skalli establishment in Sete. The region promises evolution and is nevertheless the top wine region in the world with a vineyard of nearly 240 000 hectares, 25 000 wine producers and 2 500 wine cellars. For five years now, the Sud de France brand has gathered all the region has to offer, to enhance the colours of this wine region in France and beyond; colours as diverse as its schist soils, which fortify the wines from Saint-Chinian, Cotes du Roussillon and the Coteaux du Languedoc; as rich as its Shingle land - called Grés in Occitan - that make the wines of the Domain Puech Haut unforgettable, and that is the origin of the Grés appellation of Montpellier, brilliantly illustrated by the Clavel Domain. These Grés are typical of the Corbières, spicy red wines that belong to one of the most important appellations in France, and make the ter-

roirs of Lézignan, Boutenac and Lagrasse resonate with meaning. And yet, after the policies of uprooting, the concentration of its cooperative economic tissue served the ambitions of a growing trade, the region has begun the conversion of its vineyards. The Qualitative market of the Languedoc-Roussillon region is now accompanied by a conversion of the vineyards to organic farming, now covering more than 30 % of its acreage. It is an exemplary region from this point of view, concentrating over 12 000 hectares of domains already converted and nearly 8000 in mid-conversion. The success of the Aupilhac domain in Montpeyroux is the best example of producers of organic wines on the move, such as the Chateau l’Hospitalet, Chateau Cazeneuve and the Villa Tempora.

For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.sunfrance.com/vins

SUDDEFRANCE - 63 -

Wines with a reputation The Languedoc regional AOP appellationis the founding reference of appellations d’origin controlées, whose main grape varieties for red and rosé wines are Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan ; and for whites: Grenache white, Bourboulenc, Viognier, Picpoul, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino and Ugni. In the dynamics of Sud de France, this appellation is a bridge between the concept of varieties promoted by the Pays d'Oc wines (PGI - protected geographical indication) and the typicality of soils. In the departments of the Aude, Gard, Hérault and Pyrénées-Orientales, the Languedoc vineyard consists of 18 appellations d’origine protégées (AOP): Cabardès, Clairette du Languedoc, Cornières, Corbières-Boutenac Faugères, Languedoc, Limoux, Malepère, Minervois, Minervois la Lavinière, Muscat, St.-Chinian, Muscat de Rivesaltes, Rivesaltes, Banyuls and Banyuls Grand Cru, Maury, Cotes du Roussillon.

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:46 Page64

FLAVOURS WATER - SWEET WINES

Aperitifbrandsknown throughout theworld They have left their mark on the region and well beyond. Famous in the last century, the aperitifs Byrrh and Noilly Prat continue to be popular favourites as do certain naturally sweet wines.

here are Muscats from Mireval, Frontignan, Lunel, Saint-Jeande-Minervois in Languedoc and Banyuls, Maury, Rivesaltes in Roussillon... The Mediterranean is a territory which benefits from widespread production of naturally sweet wines. In fact, it was a son of the Roussillon-born Arnaud de Villeneuve, a doctor and Master of Montpellier University, who in 1285 discovered the winemaking process and its fortification with a grapebased “eau-de-vie” after an initial fermentation. This increases the alcohol content while retaining the natural sugars from the grape. The consumption of these wines as an aperitif became a craze after the Second

World War – the leading choice was Banyuls, which is still produced to this day, just a few kilometres from the Franco-Spanish border. Standing by their side are the descendants of perfumed Roman wines – wine-based aperitifs are also the preserve of the region. Obtained from a blend of wine, sugar, sugar beet alcohol and flavourings, they were exclusive to the port of Sète where the major production houses set up. A herbalist and oenologist, Joseph Noilly discovered that casks exposed to heat and sea spray gave a powerful white wine. In 1813 at Marseillan, he decided to reproduce this aging process and created Noilly Prat, a vermouth which would go on to world renown thanks to fans like Ernest Hemingway and Humphrey Bog-

And the famous waters! The Pyrénées-Orientales are home to the Sémillante, a microbiologically pure underground spring water, which bubbles forth naturally in the heart of Catalan country and has been sourced and bottled in Toulouges for many years. This water forms the basis of a range of soft drinks from the Milles brewery, including the famous Limonette. The Hérault is also home to the Salvetat, a mineral water classified since 1868 that bubbles up in the heart of the Haut Languedoc Natural Park. Low in salt and rich in calcium, it now belongs to the Danone group. It is bottled in La Salvetat-sur-Agoût. Not far from Lamalou-les-Bains, the Vernière spring offers up water that sparkles naturally after a long journey through the primary rocks. Recognised as a “public interest” phenomenon, Vernière mineral water is particularly rich in bicarbonates, calcium and magnesium. In Lozère, at the crossroads of the Cévennes and the Grandes Causses, the naturally sparkling mineral water of Quézac is rich in bicarbonates, sodium, calcium and magnesium. After a long and deep underground journey, it emerges in a valley at the foot of the mediaeval village of Quézac. Finally, the world-renowned Perrier water comes from the heart of the garrigue near Nîmes. The source was exploited for the first time in 1863 and the site became a spa. In 1894 it became the property of Dr. Perrier, who gave it his name. Guided tours tell you all there is to know about the little green bottle and its bubbles. La Salvetat: La Salvetat-sur-Agoût Tourist Office (Hérault). Tel. 04 67 97 64 44. Vernière: Les Aires (Hérault). Tel. 04.67.95.28.15. Sémillante: Milles Brewery, Toulouges (Pyrénées-Orientales). Tel. 04 68 54 44 66. Quézac: Quézac Water Syndicate (Lozère). Tel. 04 66 45 47 15. Perrier: The Perrier source in the hamlet of “Les Bouillens” Vergèze (Gard). Tel. 04 66 87 61 01.

SUDDEFRANCE - 64 -

Natural Sweet Wines: a Southern treasure! A veritable Southern speciality, the natural sweet wines - Frontignan Muscat, Lunel Muscat... - are produced in the LanguedocRoussillon region, particularly in the Pyrenées-Orientales - for Maury, Rivesaltes and Banyuls Muscat (ambré, tuilé, etc.). These sweet wines are fortified wines whose fermentation is stopped by the addition of alcohol, which increases the alcohol content while preserving the natural sugars of the grapes. It is possible to visit the region following the trail of productive sites: Lunel, Mireval, Frontignan, Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, Rivesaltes, Maury and Banyuls. Lately, the Roussillon sweet fortified wines producers have reintroduced rosé in the Rivesaltes appellation, where three wineries were officially authorised to produce Rivesaltes Rose during the harvest of 2010, including Les Vignerons Catalans, a large operator in the Pyrénées-Orientales. art. Noilly is still to be found on the banks of the lake at Thau and visitors are welcome to take a tour. The other major brand, Byrrh, comes from further south in Roussillon territory. It was also in the 19th Century that two brothers invented this drink with a Spanish fortified wine, Malaga, as its base with added quinine. At Thuir, the vast cellar with its record-breaking enormous 420,000 litre vat and loading bays built by the Eiffel workshops can still be visited. Noilly Prat, 1, rue Noilly, in Marseillan (Hérault). Tel. 04 67 77 75 19. www.noillyprat.fr Caves Byrrh, 6, boulevard Violet, in Thuir (Pyrénées-Orientales). Tel. 04 68 53 05 42. www.byrrh.com www.sunfrance.com/vins

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:46 Page65

FLAVOURS OYSTERS - SHELLFISH

TheMarseillanman whorecreated the tide!

ruit of the marriage between technology and nature, the “Seven” is the smallest of the oysters cultivated by the Tarbouriech family – from father to son since 1963 they have been oyster farmers on the shores of the Thau lakenear Marseillan. “Seven”, the latest in the line of Tarbouriech oysters has seven good reasons to attract our attention: “Sea” because of the seawaters; “Sexy” because of its curves; “Sun” because of its warm colours; “Small” because of its size; “Savour” because of its palatable qualities; “Sète” as a reference to the basin where it is bred; and finally, “Special” because actually, “Seven” is like no other oyster. Florent Tarbouriech, the owner of Médiathau Marée (“marsh”), is more than a little proud of his latest creation. « Its taste and its appearance soon convince those who still grimace when presented with an oyster, » he explains, « because this isn’t what first comes to mind when people hear the word “oyster”. “Seven” is a surprising delight in the mouth with its sweetness, smoothness, and its texture. » A short production cycle – two years – allows the producer to lower costs. Harvested since 2012, “Seven” already represents 50% of the shellfish production of Mediathau Maréé. The other two oyster varieties spend more time in the water: the famous “Tarbouriech” which attains maturity after three years and represents 35% of their production; and the enormous ‘Premium’ which needs to be pampered for four years. All of them are progeny of the “Bouzigues” oyster species.

But how can we define its specific characteristics? «The difference comes from the duration of the water-evacuation cycles, in other words how long the oyster spends in the sun. In the past, the evacuation process was carried out two or three times a year. It was painstaking work.» Florent Tarbouriech continues, «Our patented technique recreates the tidal cycle both automatically and remotely. Solar panels installed above the tables produce the power and a motor acts on the booms for the evacuation process. Our Mediterranean oysters live with the tide, but even better, we adapt it to their growth.» Is Florent Tarbouriech the mad scientist of the Thau lake? It’s possible! The little “Bouzigues” has become the star of Tarbouriech’s technology and can be tasted at oyster seller stands or on the premises – between May and September - Florent’s children run the Saint Barth restaurant facing on the lakeshore. Médithau Marée in Marseillan. www.medithau.com. Guided visit of the oyster parks followed by a tasting session at “Saint Barth” from May to September. Tel. 06 10 79 49 85.

Shellfish:from Bouzigues to Leucate In the Hérault, the pretty little port of Bouzigues is a gourmet treasure among the plants of the Etang de Thau. Wholly devoted to shellfish, the village abounds with producers who offer tastings at the water’s edge.A good idea to step off the beaten track and enjoy seafood platters, enjoy brasucade and other specialties facing the Mont Saint-Clair.The Récantou,The Tchèpe, Demoiselles Dupuy, La Côte Bleue, Les Rives de Thau, and fifteen other establishments offer various ways to taste shellfish and crustaceans. A pretty port, a small museum, and a belltower seen from far away tell the story of a Shellfish culture still open to visitors. An oyster route winds its way among the shellfish breeders. The oyster even has its own Festival every year in mid-August. In the Aude, between Port-Leucate and Leucate, the decor is a little different but the welcome is as charming. A multitude of small huts are planted along the lagoon where producers serve oysters and shellfish all of the time. It is a pleasant idea to come there to dine outdoors. Oysters from Bouzigues, Leucate and Gruissan are of the same species but, from a point of view of taste, they are a little different. Open all year, it is something that remains truly exotic. SUDDEFRANCE - 65 -

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:46 Page66

FLAVOURS TASTY SQUID

OlivierAzaïs, squid fisherman inFrontignan In Frontignan, a handful of fishermen take to the seas throughout the fishing season in search of octopus, sea urchin, and red scorpion fish. Olivier and Patricia Azaïs have made squid fishing their speciality.

strange ten-armed beast, the “seiche” squid or cuttlefish is in fact a generic name for a large number of mollusc species. Smaller than the “calamar” squid, the “seiche” can be distinguished because of its ability to squirt ink. A local delicacy of Sète and its surroundings, they have been fished since the dawn of time in this part of the Mediterranean and give rise to scrumptious recipes of which the extremely famous “rouille de seiche” sauce is but one (see opposite). Olivier Azaïs has been fishing for squid for more than twenty years. With his wife, every winter – the “seiche” is fished in January and February – they leave at dawn aboard their boat the “Patolisa A Pas Peur”, for a half day – which requires a lot of patience.

The couple gaze into the distance as they search for signs – tracking floats – nets placed two or three days previously. «Depending on the weather, we place or lift the nets, we work with the rhythm of the sea. For “seiche”, the weather conditions have to be good,» Patricia explains. Within the region, there are three thousand mariners licenced to fish, all in search of the “seiches”, which swim a few metres below the surface. «When

you catch one, you must be careful in case it squirts its ink and its beak can bite!» says Olivier, in his yellow waxed jacket, spattered with ink stains. «Fishing for all shellfish is best practised on a moonless night. After rough seas, the fish are disturbed and fishing can be quite good.» A good catch is around 30 kilos per day – and from this chefs prepare the sensational “planchas” (grilled seafood) and “rouilles”!

Seiche rouille 1 kg of seiches with their heads (but with beaks and eyes removed) 2 onions - 2 cloves of garlic 2 or 3 cartons (250 g) of tomato coulis/purée 2 egg yolks Thyme - Salt and Pepper Clean and cut the seiches into strips. Sear the seiches with the onion and garlic, add the tomato purée then towards the end of the cooking period, beat the egg yolks and incorporate with the rest. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add some Cayenne pepper if you like spicy sauces. To prepare your rice. Bring some salted water to the boil– twice the volume of your rice, when it boils, add your rice. Drain the rice and serve hot.

SUDDEFRANCE - 66 -

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:46 Page67

FLAVOURS PICHOLINE AND LAMB

ThePicholine, theotherpassionofNîmes Famed for its Roman history, Nîmes is also the cradle of the Picholine, a variety of olive grown in the Gard department for several centuries.

ith nearly 4,000 hectares planted with olive trees, the Gard department is the largest olive producer in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. The fruit has a long history since olive trees were to be found around the Mediterranean over 60,000 years ago. After its colonisation by Rome, cultivation of olive trees was expanded throughout the south of Gaul. By the 16th century, the olive groves of the department and those around the Gulf du Lion were already highly regarded. In the following century, two brothers of Italian origin, the Picholinis, settled at Chamas in Provence where they popularised a recipe to make olives edible without losing their green colour. The secret is to mix the olives with ash, cover them with water and then place them in flavoured brine. Initially used on Provençale

varieties, the method was quickly applied to the Gard olives which then took the name of the inventors - and thus the “Picholine” was born. The Picholine, which is found between Garons, Sommières, Uzès and Beaucaire, can be described as very fruity and green, crisp and fibrous, bitter and slightly spicy; it is characterised by its flavourings which impart a brown butter taste. Olive cultivation has always been twopronged; at the end of September, the plumpest fruits are picked for eating; towards the end of the year, what remains is harvested for the production of olive oil. Picholine production represents two-thirds of the Gard’s olive output. Within that, around ten tonnes are produced under the appellation “Olive de Nîmes” and tempt shoppers at the indoor markets of Nîmes and Avignon and at the Anduze market. www.sunfrance.com/saveurs

The tenderness of lamb from Lozère and Cathar country Offspring of well-planned, controlled rearing methods, the Lozère lamb is raised to the rhythm of the seasons by highly dedicated shepherds who respect traditional mountain methods. The Lozère lamb is a young lamb of pure breed – offspring of ewes and rams of the rustic Massif Central White pedigree. Un-weaned, it is raised with its mother until the maximum age of 130 days and always stays with her. The lambs receive, in addition to their mothers’ milk, locally-produced fodder and a cerealbased supplement towards the end of the fattening period. The Lozère lamb has held a “Protected Designation of Origin” since 2007. In the Aude, lambs (photo) are raised with their mothers for 70 days before finishing their growth on fodder to the maximum age of 109 to 120 days. The department has created the brand “Cathar Country” assuring that the lambs comply with strict specifications.

SUDDEFRANCE - 67 -

Different flavoured oils Olive oil is a natural, healthy product and has been used since time immemorial to cure numerous ills and to maintain health. Many of the region’s olive trees succumbed to the big freeze of February 1956. But since the 1980s, olive cultivation and production of olive oil has seen a net increase thanks to discoveries in the significant advantages of the Mediterranean climate. Numerous producers of high quality oil abound throughout Languedoc-Roussillon, among them are: - Domaine de l’Oulivie in Combaillaux. Tel. 04 67 67 07 80. - Olidoc in Clermont-l’Hérault. Tel. 04 67 96 10 36 - L’oulibo in Bize-Minervois. Tel 04 68 41 88 88. - Moulin de Villevieille (“Villevieille Windmill”). Tel : 04 66 80 03 69. - Moulin de Corconne (“Corconne Windmill”). Tel. 04 66 77 32 75. - Coopérative Oléicole La Catalane. Tel. 04 68 57 28 67.

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:02 Page68

FLAVOURS BRANDADE DE NÎMES

BrandadedeNîmes, Thehistoryofaswap Emblematic dish of Nîmes, the brandade has little to do originally with the Gard department.

ven though widely cooked during lent, cod is not necessarily morose. In Nimes (Gard), it is usually served without garlic however, a great many cooks prepare it with anchovies, potato or even puff pastry. In the south, it is served raw but toasted. As for the history of Nîmes brandade, it goes back to the famous route du sel. In that time, the Newfoundlanders from the West came for supplies to Aigues-Mortes, the port of salt, to better prepare and preserve the cod. To pay the merchants, they traded some of their stock of cod for bags of salt. It was around 1830, that Nîmes brandade was invented by a woman from

Nîmes who had the idea to grind her fish in a mortar, and to dissolve it in milk with fine oils and herbs from the surrounding

The anchovy,the symbol of Collioure Salted, marinated in vinegar, in oil, cream or tapenade, the anchovy remains the specialty of Collioure (Pyrénées-Orientales). Collioure is famous for its old port, its steeple, Fauvism and its anchovies. The blue fish, about ten centimetres long, remains an emblem for Collioure which became a recognised tasting site in 1994. Ten years later, Collioure anchovies won the European label and became a Protected Geographical Indication. Remarkably, in the small port on the Vermilion coast traces of recipes including anchovies from the Middle Ages have been found. This one specialty was recognized by Louis XIV in his time; he exempted the salters in Collioure of the tax on salt. Today, European standards have regulated and changed things in the workshops used for curing. Only two out of ten remain: the Desclaux and Roque establishments that produce about three hundred tons of anchovy every year. The two families both have small demonstration workshops in the city, and the Desclaux establishment has an exhibition space recounting the history of these trades. However their respective production facilities are now outside the town. The anchovy season lasts from May to October, the period during which they are fished. To earn the Protected Geographical Status (PGS) the Collioure Anchovy must meet a number of constraints such as salting the anchovies within twelve hours of capture. Workshops receive the fresh fish, which are then frozen and salted, headed and gutted by hand before being placed in the maturation phase in drums, cross layered with salt, for a period ranging from three months to one year. It is in the salt that the anchovies will be coloured, flavoured and fragranced. Anchovy lovers prefer the Mediterranean anchovy and those from the coast rather than offshore catches for organoleptic reasons. SUDDEFRANCE - 68 -

garrigue. Brandade or brandado was created. It was a man named Durand, originally from Alès and chef for the bishop, who made it popular. The job of brandadier was born and with it the establishments appeared including the Raymond company, founded in 1879, more than a century ago and which became Raymond Geoffroy in 1950. Brandade has become a true specialty from Nîmes. Alphonse Daudet, from Nîmes, was its Ambassador in Paris. Even if it is associated with many seasonings, traditionally the Nîmes brandade is prepared without garlic and without potatoes, cold or hot and even with a truffle by Michel Kayser, head of the 2 star restaurant Alexandre in Nîmes-Garons!

Where can one find brandade? Ready prepared at Raymond Geoffroy, the King of brandade! This establishment, founded in 1879, has always specialized in cod brandade, the constant flagship for the brand. They make the authentic brandade of Nîmes, sold directly to the public at the premises. Phone: 04 66 27 11 98. The other major produceris Coudène, founded in1936 and located in Saint-Christol-lez-Alès. Tel. 04 66 60 77 50.

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:47 Page69

FLAVOURS LITTLE PASTY

The amazing little pasty from Pézenas Invented in the 18th century by an English nobleman, the little pasty is one of the most ancient culinary traditions of the Languedoc. An original delicacy, it sells in greater and greater numbers. However, one sole patissier continues to make them in keeping with the time-honoured method…

«T

he recipe is stored in my husband’s head!» Behind her counter, Cathy Quatrefages is very proud to recall that the recipe for making the little pasties is a secret handed down orally from father to son within the family. At one end of rue Conti in the centre of Pézenas, for more than fifty years this stall, affectionately known as “The Palace of Delights” has been in the hands of the Quatrefages – at first by Suzette and Maurice and latterly by Cathy and Bernard for the last twenty years or so. They have always sold this delicacy, inherited from Maison Gravier, which

kept the secret. A purely local product, the little pasty was eaten as a local fashion, even though a similar pasty existed at one time in Beziers. At Pézenas, several patissiers used to serve it until a time when only Quatrefages and Achille remained. The latter passed away without handing down his recipe. So, the patissier of rue Conti is the last one to make this ancestral pasty. «To start with, the flour is added to boiling water and a hot-water-crust pastry is made. Then it is cut into strips and with the aid of a die, the tops are cut. The pastry is rolled on a piece of wood, this is then filled with mutton blended with brown sugar and lemon, the whole thing is allowed to rest

The Pastries of Nîmes Among the specialties in Nîmes, pastries are often emulated. This one is also eaten as an amuse-bouche. Invented in the nineteenth century by a baker in Nîmes, the recipe had been forgotten before becoming popular again in Les Halles, the market in Nîmes (Gard), about fifty years ago. The pastry, stuffed with veal and pork is wrapped in pastry that forms a white crust. It is only served hot. To taste, simply go to les Halles in Nîmes or even visit Christopher Brunetti, the king of pastries in Nîmes. This young man has invented a few variants including one of Nîmes brandade and another of duck foie gras and Uzès truffles that have created a stir as far as Fauchon in Paris.

SUDDEFRANCE - 69 -

for a few hours and is then baked slowly in a hot oven», she explains. As for the quantities... they’re top secret! This gives the pasty a texture like jam. It is nothing like the semi-industrial products offered by certain brands trying to ride the gravy train. Cathy Quatrefages sells nearly two hundred per day pasties at €1 a-piece. «There are even some people who tell us that they have got off the motorway just to come and buy some!» she confides. To enjoy the little pasty at its best, Cathy recommends reheating it in an oven pre-heated to 180°-200°, turning it off and then putting the pasty in for two minutes.

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:47 Page70

FLAVOURS CASSOULET - ALIGOT

Sweet steam of cassoulet Symbol of Occitan cuisine, the invention of the cassoulet is claimed by several terroirs. This has the advantage of creating a dish more subtle than one might think.

ertainly, it is a regional specialty of Languedoc based on beans, everybody agrees. But it is then that the plot thickens: is the true cassoulet from nearby Toulouse, Castelnaudary or Carcassonne? For in Cathar country, the controversy over who is depositary of the sacred recipe is almost a religious war... The quarrel is about the origin but also the ingredients and the very taste of the cassoulet prepared in each city claiming authorship of this ancient dish. In faraway Toulouse, it includes duck confit. The cassoulet of Castelnaudary is based on white beans from Lauragais (white kidney beans) and contains confit of goose, ham or shoulder of pork, sausage and rind, embellished with a carrot, an onion with two embedded cloves and a bouquet garni. Cassoulet de Carcassonne may, in turn, contain red legged partridge and a piece of mutton. Legend traces the origin of the dish to the siege of Castelnaudary during the war of a Hundred Years, in which starving villagers allegedly gathered all the food available to cook a gigantic stew served to the besieged. Thus restored, they would easily defeat the English. But this story, very patriotic and peddled by the cook, Prosper Montagne, does not stand up to analysis – simply because beans, originating from South America, only appeared in Europe in the sixteenth century! However, certainly this tasty stew cooked in an earthenware cassole - hence its name - is an Occitan dish «Invented out of necessity by the peasants, and combining long simmered remains in order to make a hearty dish», says Jean-Claude Rodriguez, a cook from Carcassonne and creator of the Universal Academy of cassoulet. In recent years, this dish has made a comeback; cooked with more attention and more care than first appears. Carcassonne may have created a stir with the Academy,

but Castelnaudary created the “Cassoulet road” grouping bean producers, restaurant owners, wine producers and food packers. So, harrow the beans! Universal Academy of cassoulet.

Académie universelle du cassoulet. Tel. 04 68 71 09 53. www.academie-du-cassoulet.com Route du cassoulet de Castelnaudary. Tel. O4 68 23 05 73. www.castelnaudary-tourisme.com

Aligot,symbolic dish of the Aubrac It is in this countryside of pastures surrounded by stone walls that this rustic dish was born from potatoes and fresh Tomme. Do not be fooled by the bucolic landscape of this part of the Lozère. For here beauty is also combined with rigor. On this plateau, perched at over 1000 meters, the Aubrac is a demanding land requiring strength. And so the aligot has all the refreshment virtues necessary for this terrain. Originally made with pieces of bread and fresh tome, this dish from the twelfth century was served by the Aubrac monks to pilgrims crossing these mountains to get to St.-Jacques-deCompostela along the Via Podiensis. A family meal, the aligot is now prepared with mashed potato mixed with cream, butter and fresh Tomme, and a little garlic. There is also the know-how - and patience - required to stir and stretch the aligot to make a fine layers. A skilled operation done by experts in pots up to 30 kg of potatoes at once! The word aligot is derived from the Latin aliquod, meaning “something”. And after a good aligot, there is no doubt one has something rich in one’s belly! SUDDEFRANCE - 70 -

60-71 SAVEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 10:47 Page71

FLAVOURS SWEET ONIONS FROM CÉVENNES

The sweet onion from Cevennes with a “remarkable” award For several months now, the sweet onion from Cevennes has sported the official label “Site of remarkable taste”, which recognises the production know-how, the quality of the product, and the richness of its heritage.

t has a pearly, satin appearance which differentiates it from the ordinary onion. When cooked, it is sweet and juicy, and oozes flavours of the chestnuts that are also found in the region. The Cevennes sweet onion, a product of the south-facing slopes of Mount Aigoual and the Languedoc scrublands, is a star. Saved from oblivion in the 1970s by a group of producers who wanted to ensure a high quality product, it was recognised as a distinct product in 2003, and then received a “Protected Designation of Origin” label in 2008. This award is evidence of the desire to maintain the quality of long-established production methods re-

specting the setting and the harmony of the landscape, with the small village of SaintAndré-de-Majencoules at its epicentre – fiefdom of the sweet onion for over a century.

Cevennes sweet onion fritters 500 g Cevennes sweet onions PDO 125 g chick pea flour 1 dessert spoon sesame seeds ½ teaspoon spices of your choice 1 pinch of salt – 1 dessert spoon finely chopped coriander – 100 ml water Cut the onions in two and slice them. Mix with salt and put to one side for 5 minutes. Add the flour, sesame seeds, spices as well as the coriander and mix well. Add the water while continuing to mix until you get a thick batter. Heat your deep-fat fryer and fry the batter, a dessert spoon at a time for 5-6 minutes, turning them from time to time. When the fritters are golden brown, drain them on absorbent paper. Serve hot.

SUDDEFRANCE - 71 -

In awarding this emblematic product from Cevennes the label, “The terraces of Aigoual, sweet onion from Cevennes PDO”, there is a recognition of the importance of its cultivation in shaping the local terrain. In fact, these onions are cultivated on a series of terraces built by monks in the Middle Ages. Their southerly aspect guarantees maximum exposure to the sun and optimal ventilation. Edged with dry-stone walls, these terraces each of around a hundred square metres have forged the landscape and are the guarantors of the famous bulb. A local producer explains, «To conserve its flavour and its label, it must be grown in granite and shale soil. In a calcareous soil, the same onion would lose some of its qualities.» Not only tender and delicate but also resilient and ambitious – just like the locals – the onion is harvested between July and September, and is a delight whether in a confit, on pissaladière (an anchovy, cheese and onion quiche), in a tart, or used as a culinary basic. It is equally exquisite when battered and fried into a fritter!

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:49 Page72

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:50 Page73

As little as fifty years ago, the limestone plateaus and dunes of the LanguedocRoussillon, were little known and largely untamed. Today – the region, which has retained its natural character, has become an almost

COLOURS

unrivalled holiday destination. As well as its generous range of traditional hotels and bed & breakfast, the region boasts a number of high class establishments - which make up the exclusive “Cercle Prestige” – where the quality of service is on a par with the beauty of their settings. This part of Southern France also boasts a number of high class, luxury spas offering thalassotherapy and body treatments. One of the aspects that go to make this region so authentic is the vibrant cultural identity that is reflected in a respect for tradition. A thriving arts and crafts culture, together with some magical festivals at incredible venues, such as the city of Carcassonne or the Nîmes amphitheatre, has made Languedoc-Roussillon synonymous with creativity and celebration. Finally, for those who like to let off steam, there are a wide range of activities to choose from: kite-surfing, golf, canoeing and sailing, to name but a few!

SUDDEFRANCE - 73 -

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:50 Page74

COLOURS CONTEMPORARY ART

COLOURS CULTURE

From Abstract to Art Modeste They marked the sixties. Viallat, Dezeuze, Devade, Dolla, Bioulès and the others, all trying to demystify the artistic object, playing with the various techniques used in creating it. Twenty years later, Di Rosa, Combas, Blanchard, and Boisrond created Free Figuration, in Nice, with Ben. Far from the conceptual painting of the other southerners in the 60s, the famous exhibition Finir en Beauté (presented in a Parisian loft in 1981) sealed the history of this movement, in which Robert Combas and Hervé Di Rosa - among others - exhibited their work together. Rock and arabesque canvases, cutouts in the style of an African Matisse, comics, graffiti, paintings in a deliberately “crude” style or “bad painting” caused a huge stir. In doing so they followed Dubuffet in crossing the barriers of Art Brut (raw art) and Hervé Di Rosa went on to invent Art Modeste (modest art) founding the Miam - Musée International des Arts Modestes - in Sète. In 2002, the seventeen stained-glass windows of Villeneuve-lèsMaguelone cathedral, signed by the American Robert Morris, were reminiscent of the invention of the Antiform concept of the sixties and seventies. Work which is close to that of Pierre Soulages who, between 1987 and 1994, produced four stained-glass windows for the abbey-church of Conques. He may in turn have inspired Claude Viallat who restored the church windows of Notre-Dame-des-Sablons in Aigues-Mortes between 1990 and 1996. In Sérignan, from the early years of 2000, international artist Daniel Buren introduced his vision of the area surrounding La Cigalière. And this choice of live art refers back to the time of the avant-garde BMPT movement, when the artist was associated with Olivier Mosset, Michel Parmentier, Niele Toroni, in the sixties. The single-pigment paintings of Pierre Soulages are based on the way the light reflects and the various textures of the black surface. This artist from Sète exhibited his work at the Georges-Pompidou Centre in Paris and at the Hermitage Museum of Saint-Petersburg before a special room was dedicated to his work in 2007 at the Fabre Museum in Montpellier after the painter donated twenty of his works to the city. Not only the artists but the museums themselves have witnessed change. Since becoming the Regional Contemporary Art Museum (MRAC), the museum of Sérignan has become part of the network of important establishments structuring the region, alongside the museum of Céret, the Regional Centre for Contemporary Art (CRAC) in Sète, the Carré d’Art in Nîmes, the Regional Contemporary Art Fund and the Fabre Museum of Montpellier. Places and people making Languedoc-Roussillon so attractive in terms of contemporary art.

For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.sunfrance.com/musees

SUDDEFRANCE - 74 -

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:50 Page75

COLOURS MUSEUMS

From Courbet to Soulages in Montpellier The architecture of the Fabre museum, since its restoration in 2007, blends the traditional and the contemporary, reflecting its choice of exhibitions. The Fabre museum tells the story of art from the Renaissance to the present day with eight hundred works, nine hundred engravings and over three thousand drawings, in over nine thousand square metres of exhibition space. The grand masters of European painting are represented here, including Allori, Veronese or Ribera, works by François-Xavier Fabre, Ingres, David, with their modern contemporaries from Delacroix to Courbet. Impressionists like Bazille, de Staël and Van Dongen are also exhibited. Enhanced by its new building, illuminated at night by a glass facade, space is reserved for 20th century works, including major artists from the Supports/Surfaces group, notably Pierre Soulages (photo), who personally supervised the design of the space, and Simon Hantaï.

Musée Fabre, 13, rue Montpelliéret, in Montpellier. Tel. 04 67 14 83 00

From the CRAC to the MIAM in Sète

Young creators at the FRAC

Designed as a place for research and creation, the CRAC is devoted to producing and diffusing contemporary art. This is done through an annual programme of exhibitions, editions and mediation with the wider public. Holding first exhibitions by many artists is seen as a vital outlet for the local contemporary art scene. Conferences, exhibitions and encounters complete the programme. The city of Sète also hosts the Miam, the International Museum of Modest Art, a refreshing, incongruous interpretation of popular, marginal art, the brainchild of Bernard Belluc and the painter from Sète Hervé Di Rosa.

After “Chauffe Marcel !”, in 2006; “La dégelée Rabelais”, in 2008 and “Casanova forever” in 2010, the FRAC is planning its next big itinerant regional exhibition in 2012. Every other year, the FRAC initiates a summer exhibition that is both regional and thematic. In addition to this event, relayed by a network of exhibition spaces in the regional area, the FRAC has a public collection of contemporary art aimed at supporting and diffusing artistic creation. Hence the extra- and intra-muros programme of annual exhibitions on contemporary art and young creation. A thousand pieces from artists of all nationalities, brought together to represent what is happening in the art world today.

RAC-LR, Centre Régional d’Art Contemporain Languedoc-Roussillon, 26, quai Aspirant-Herber in Sète. Tel. 04 67 74 59 57 MIAM, Musée International des Arts Modestes, 23 quai Maréchal-de-Lattrede-Tassigny in Sète. Tel. 04 99 04 76 44 www.crac.lr.free.fr - Tel. 04 67 74 94 37 www.miam.org. Tel. 04 99 04 76 44

FRAC-LR, 4-6, rue Rambaud and FRAC-LR, 12, rue Castillon in Montpellier. www.fraclr.org

From Picasso to Tapiès in Céret Instigated by two painters, Franck Burty and Pierre Brune in 1948, Céret museum was the child of Modern Art. The works of Picasso and Matisse were showcased. But the real shift toward contemporary art occurred in 1966 with the arrival of Claude Massé - curator for three years - who organized an exhibition of the work of very young artists. When the museum was renovated in 1987, two directions emerged in the artistic choices of the new structure. Interest began to focus on the scientific and cultural implications of the passage of artists through Céret and their value in writing the “pictorial” pages of the town. The historic collection of paintings from 1910 to 1950 was restored and complemented with works created in Céret. The pictorial movements of the south of France can now be seen here: Vincent Bioulès, Daniel Dezeuze and Claude Viallat. Major names in Catalan painting such as Tapiès, Brossa, Perejaume are also exhibited.

Musée d’Art Moderne de Céret, 8, bd Maréchal-Joffre, Céret. Tél. 04 68 87 27 76. www.musee-ceret.com SUDDEFRANCE - 75 -

Contemporary art in Nimes Installed on the top floor of the very elegant building designed by Lord Norman Foster, opposite the Maison Carrée, the contemporary art collection is built around an exhibition space containing work from 1960 to the present day. The three major themes - a panorama of French art and movements, the Mediterranean identity and finally, trends in Anglo Saxon and German art - regroup four hundred works. A succession of temporary exhibitions is held throughout the year.

Carré d’Art, Musée d’Art Contemporain, 16, place de la Maison-Carrée, Nîmes. Tel. 04 66 76 35 70

Modern Art in Sérignan In Sérignan, contemporary art is everywhere. Starting with the La Cigalière stage, the surroundings of which were developed by contemporary artist, Daniel Buren in collaboration with the architect Nicolas Guillot. The Sérignan Contemporary Art Museum, became a regional centre in 2010. It gives the public an insight into creation in the sixties and up to the present day, particularly in relation to certain periods, such as Abstract Landscape, Narrative Figuration, Supports/ Surfaces, Conceptual Art and the current art scene. Permanent and temporary collections in an exhibition space covering 2,500 m2 built around graphic art studios, a video room, experimental showcases, a library area and a bookshop-boutique.

MRAC, Musée Régional d’Art Contemporain LanguedocRoussillon, - Sérignan. Tél. 04 67 32 33 05

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:50 Page76

COLOURS MUSEUMS

Fine Arts Museum in Nîmes Located near the Roman Arena, the museum evokes Italian art from the 16th to 18th centuries, with works by Bassano and Lelio Orsi. It houses a collection of Flemish and Dutch painters from the 16th and 17th centuries by Rubens, Fabritius, Coeke and of French paintings from the 17th to the 19th century, with Subleyras, Sigalonet and Delaroche. The Atrium has canvases representing the time of Mark Anthony and Cleopatra, by the painter Charles Natoire (18th century). The museum incorporates the beautiful Roman mosaic discovered in Nîmes in 1883, depicting the “Wedding of Admetes”. See also the 15th century Le tondo Foulc - porcelain Madonna by Andra della Robbia.

Musée des Beaux-Arts - Rue de la Cité-Foulc in Nîmes. Tel. 04 66 67 38 21

Fleury museum in Lodève Lodève, a former city of cloth manufacturers, hosts the museum in a private mansion which once belonged to Cardinal Fleury, utor to Louis XV. In recent years, the museum has become famous for its summer exhibitions. Temporary exhibitions featuring the works of Sonia Delaunay and Kees Van Dongen have been marked as major events. The museum has two departments, a permanent exhibition representing the Lodève region from 540 million years ago to the Gallo-Roman period, and a collection of the work of contemporary artists.

Musée Fleury Square Georges-Auric in Lodève (Hérault). Tél. 04 67 88 86 10.

Fayet museumand the museum of Béziers

The museum of Béziers, housed in the former 17th century Saint-Jacques barracks, tells the story of Béziers from the time of Antiquity up to the present day. Two other museums, housed in the private mansions Fayet and Fabrégat, exhibit old paintings. The Fayet museum also holds the modern art collection belonging to Jean Moulin, including works by Chirico, Soutine and Dufy. The Fabrégat has sculptures by Jean Antoine Injalbert (1845-1933), a native of Béziers.

• Musée du Biterrois Caserne Saint-Jacques rampe du 96e in Béziers Tel 04 67 38 81 61. • Hôtel Fabrégat Place de la Révolution in Béziers - Tel. 04 67 28 38 78. • Hôtel Fayet Rue du Capus in Béziers - Tel. 04 67 49 04 66.

Aristide-Maillol museum Aristide Maillol - born in Banyuls in 1861 - is famous for his sculptures of women with comely, rounded figures. His works include the statue “La Méditerranée” (photo opposite) as well as ceramics, bronzes and several canvases.A visit to the artist’s isolated farmhouse in the Roume valley in Banyuls-sur-Mer, guides you from his studio to his daily life. Around 40 statues in bronze and terra cotta are on show as well as drawings and paintings. In Banyuls, one can admire the statue of “La jeune fille allongée”, on the avenue named after him and the Monument to pacifists, behind the Town Hall.

Musée Maillol - Vallée Roume in Banyuls-sur-Mer Tel. 04 68 88 57 11.

SUDDEFRANCE - 76 -

And also... A series of museums focus on the region’s history. In Mialet, in the Cévennes, the Musée du Désert (Desert Museum) brings to life in the birthplace of a Camisard leader in the war between the Huguenots and the royal forces. Thirty miles away in Saint Jean de Valériscle, the musée des Blasons (Heraldry Museum) features hundreds of historical coats-of-arms, weapons, armour and armorials. The museum of Quercorb in the Aude Pyrenees, is dedicated to the region’s history and economy and focuses on the troubadours and medieval secular music along with scale models of the famous Cathar castle in Puivert. The Musée de la Préhistoire (Museum of Prehistory) in La Cauna de Belvis contains the Paleolithic era relics discovered in the caves at Sault. The museum of Cerdagne explores many facets of the region's history and identity in its temporary exhibitions. In Dorres, the granite museum focuses on the life of stonemasons. And the list is far from complete!

• Musée du Désert. Le Mas Soubeyran à Mialet (Gard). Tel. 04 66 85 02 72. • Musée du blason. Rue de la Tournelle Saint-Jean-de-Valériscle (Gard). Tel. 04 66 25 65 42. • Musée du Quercorb Puivert (Aude). Tel. 04 68 20 80 98. • Musée de la Préhistoire La Cauna Belvis (Aude). Tel. 04 68 20 37 62. • Musée Cerdagne. Cal Mateu à Sainte-Léocadie (Pyrénées-Orientales). Tel. 04 66 04 08 05. • Musée du Granit Dorres (Pyrénées-Orientales). Tel. 04 04 68 04 69 • Le Musée des Beaux-Arts Perpignan. Tel. 04 68 35 43 40. • Le Musée d’art Moderne Collioure,Villa Pams (Pyrénées-Orientales). Tel. 04 68 82 10 19. • Le Musée Pierre-André-Benoit à Alès (Gard). Tel. 04 66 86 98 68.

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:50 Page77

COLOURS FESTIVALS

Here in the South – all the world is a stage! Sun drenched Languedoc-Roussillon - a cultural melting pot – boasts a busy calendar of events throughout the year. But summer is the time to come if you want to experience some unique festivals at amazing venues. The majesty of the Nîmes amphitheatre, the gravitas of Carcassonne, the magical théâtre de la Mer at Sète and the elegance of the Duché d’Uzès courtyard - to name a few. So many incredible venues, for incredible events. During this season, the area around the Golfe du Lion becomes France's largest concert hall! And there really is something for everyone – popular French songs, opera, dance, electric, theatre, operetta, jazz, rock, humour or reggae. The South rocks to the rhythm of around a hundred festivals every summer, irrefutable proof of this region's delight in providing a warm welcome.

Radio France Montpellier, The unmissable

This major classical music festival has become a must for all music lovers: jazz, classical, electro, world music. For the whole of July, the city becomes a huge stage for music that is often being heard for the first time. Numerous events are scheduled over a period of a month in the Agglomeration of Montpellier, in the city itself and at the Domaine d’O. A dense programme including encounters, conferences and music film screenings throughout Montpellier and sometimes beyond.

www.radiofrancemontpellier.com

Montpellier Danse, tempo

Nîmes: music of today

In its thirty years of experience, this festival has become interwoven with the history of dance, through its associations with choreographers that have marked this history. As one of the city’s oldest festivals, its programme is outstandingly selective and eclectic. Montpellier Danse spoke about AIDS in the eighties, about the gesture and movement of Merce Cunningham or Pina Bausch, conceptual dance, non dance and the Bagouet years. This year, the thirty year old festival enters into a dialogue with the circus.

Over the last fourteen years, the festival of Nîmes has created a nice little reputation for itself in the world of big events. Firstly because it takes place in a remarkable setting, the Roman arena. And secondly, because it is a meeting place for today’s music, where no style is excluded. Bjork, Placebo, David Bowie have all performed here, making it a must-see event, under the starry Gard sky.

www.festivaldenimes.com

www.montpellierdanse.com

World Music Festival at Sète Get a breath of fresh air at the Théâtre de la Mer.This exmilitary fort at the foot of Mont Saint-Clair has been transformed into an amphitheatre – with the sea as its wide, blue backdrop! From June to August you can enjoy a non-stop, energy-filled programme of festivals and fun. The season traditionally kicks off in June with “Quand je pense a Fernande” (“When I think of Fernande”) - an inventive festival of contemporary French songs performed in an original and “strictly” informal setting. This is followed by “Jazz in Sète” - with its usual, impeccable programme. The season comes to a close on a high note with “Fiest’A Sète” – an irresistibly joyful celebration of world music (photo).

The face of the world at Perpignan In the space of 23 years, Visa pour l'image in Perpignan has become the Mecca of photojournalism. Photo exhibitions, screenings in the famous Campo cloisters, together with encounters and prizes for the best pictures of the year. Throughout the city, the exhibition walls invite the spectator to look at the - sometimes terrifying - current affairs of our world. The Couvent des Minimes hosts the major part of the festival, followed by the Palais des Corts, the Castillet and the Eglise des Dominicains. It represents an opportunity to discover the biggest contemporary photoreporters. The sometimes solemn vision of Stanley Greene, a specialist in conflict zones, of Alexandra Boulat and her vivid flashes of war or the poetic images of Willy Ronis invite us to reflect on the history of our century.

www.visapourlimage.com

Emotion in Carcassonne the breathtaking main event in the Languedoc-Roussillon calendar, the Carcassonne Festival takes place every year from June to August. It is, without doubt, the longest festival in the region. Its programme is an eclectic mix of opera, contemporary dance, theatre and circus performance. Bringing together a variety of headlining acts and artists from around the world to offer thrills and emotion every night.

www.festivaldecarcassonne.fr

www.quandjepenseafernande.fr - www.fiestasete.com - jazzasete.com SUDDEFRANCE - 77 -

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:50 Page78

COLOURS TRADITION

COLOURS SARDANE

Queen of the Ball – La Sardane Symbol of Catalan unity and cohesion, this traditional dance has been handed down through the centuries. Any Roussillon ball worthy of its name will offer the public a sardane, executed in the best tradition. At local festivals at the end of the afternoon it is common to see a group of dancers with joined hands and raised arms, circling slowly around the square with little steps. The dancers are traditionally accompanied by a group of musicians called the “la cobla”, composed of a flaviol (a type of flute), a drum and a number of brass instruments. This is the sardane, the dance of the Catalans. Some claim that it originated in ancient Greece. But experts have found evidence going back to the 14th century describing the famous round that is now so typical of Roussillon culture. In the 17th and 18th centuries the dance was very popular among the local aristocracy and that of northern Spain. In the first half of the 20th century, on the French side, it fell into oblivion. And paradoxically it was the Franco dictatorship from 1940 to 1975 that gave it second life, precisely because it was prohibited. This potent symbol of Catalan culture was considered as an affront to Spanish national identity. So it was during this period, following the Retirada, that it came back into fashion in French Catalonia. Its symbol of cohesion and unity was strengthened. Today, even though it is usually listed as a type of folk dance, the sardane is more alive than ever.

For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.sunfrance.com/traditions

SUDDEFRANCE - 78 -

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:50 Page79

COLOURS JOUSTING - TAMBOURIN - DRAC

Nautical jousting, titanic tournaments

Since the inauguration of its port in July 1666, every summer Sète (Hérault) becomes a grand stage for nautical jousting. On the Cadre Royal (the main canal in the city) the tournaments attract ardent local supporters and beginners alike, all captivated by the sight of two rival boats propelling toward each other to the sound of oboes and drums embarked on the prow of each boat. Dressed in white, with sharpened lances and firmly harnessed wooden shields, the two jousters compete, perched on the platforms of their boats to the cheers of the crowd, until one of them is toppled into the water. The winner is obviously the one who remains standing. In keeping with custom, the jousters parade through the streets before each tournament. And the streets of Sète take on a flavour of the past as the participants pass by, headed by a boatman wielding a lance. But the high spot of this purely southern custom is the grand prix on the Feast of St Louis. Begun in 1743, it takes place at the end of August, ending with the grand tournament of the “heavies”, the winner of which has his name engraved on a shield exhibited in the jousting room at Paul Valéry museum. On that day up to 10,000 people file into the city to celebrate the event on both sides of the canal and watch this spectacular combat of titans. Like Mèze and Marseillan, Grau-du-Roi has its own school of jousting for children. Between the Big Blue and the salt lagoons, the Camargue also celebrates this local tradition, particularly during the feast of the sea in June. More than a sport, jousting reflects Languedoc identity, so deeply rooted in the Mediterranean.

A dragon in the streets of Beaucaire In the month of June, the cries of frightened children fascinated by the monster, ring through the streets of Beaucaire (Gard). Because the Drac, which is its name, is an impressive beast. The legend, dating back to the12th century, told of a dragon that could make itself invisible to humans and feed on girls and boys who ventured too close to the banks of the nearby river Rhône where it lived. One day it came up to a young unmarried mother washing her clothes. It captured her to make her the nurse of its female, which had just given birth to a baby dragon. For seven years the young woman looked after the the dragon, but one day, after accidentally rubbing her eyes with some ointment she was supposed to put on the dragon, she saw that it was a monster.

Tambourin, between tennis and royal tennis Highly prized in Hérault since the mid 19th century, tambourin is a sport whose origins date back to the 12th century. A descendent of jeu de paume, or royal tennis, the game is like tennis but more complex. The teams are made up of five players who compete on a court without a net and where the aim is to stop the adversary from sending back the ball. The ball is white or red, made of rubber, and weighs 78 grams, which means it can travel at a speed of up to 250 kilometres an hour...The players each hold a tambourine, whose ring was originally made of wood, produced by the barrel makers of Mèze. With a diameter of 28 centimetres, and a leather handle, the object is used like a racket. So the game calls for skill and speed. A proper sport, regularly practised in Pignan, Pézenas and Gignac, it has its own federation and championships dominated by the Hérault teams which make up 85 % of the 5 000 players listed in France! Recently a tambourin centre has even been set up, where you can learn about the rules and history of the game.

Tambourithèque de Gignac, 100, chemin Galtier. Tel. 04.67.42.50.09. SUDDEFRANCE - 79 -

She was free to go home to Beaucaire. Later, seeing the dragon in the main square of Beaucaire, she went up to greet it. It was so angry at no longer being invisible to her that it lashed out at her and returned to the river. The beast was never seen again, nor did it ever devour anyone after that. Every year, children armed with little lamps follow the pasteboard monster as it winds its way through the streets of the old market town, whose 17th century Magdalen fair was known far and wide.

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:50 Page80

COLOURS SANCH – GEVAUDAN – GARGANTUA

When Langogne mixes fiction with tradition

La Sanch, a homage to the Passion The Sanch procession is quite an impressive spectacle, taking place every year on Good Friday in Catalan country. You can see it in Perpignan, Collioure and Arles-sur-Tech. The tradition has been carried on since 1416 with the same fervour and pays homage to the Passion of Christ. It owes its origins to the Spanish Dominican, Saint Vincent Ferrier. In that year the brotherhood of “The Precious Blood of our Saviour Jesus Christ”, or of Sanch, was created in Saint-Jacques church in Perpignan. It was founded on three principles : to perfect the pious practices of its members, to commemorate the Passion of Christ and to help those who are sentenced to death. Historically, the vocation of the brotherhood was to support the condemned, in their solitude before their execution.They accompanied the condemned right to the scaffold, both dressed in the “Caperutxa”, a long black garment with a pointed hood. This was done to avoid public lynching. Nowadays during the processions the members of the brotherhood don black and red Caperutxas representing penitents and the condemned. Along the way they carry the Misteris on their shoulders, life-sized representations of the different scenes of the Passion. And they walk to the sound of Goigs, chants devoted to the suffering of the Virgin Mary and of Christ.A remarkable tradition!

The beast of Gévaudan, a story of legendary ferocity In 1764, a young girl of fourteen was killed by a ferocious beast in Hubac, near Langogne (Lozère).Around a hundred more suspicious deaths followed to the east of Gévaudan, disturbing and terrifying the whole area. An inspection of the decapitated bodies drained of blood revealed carnivorous wounds. The royal authorities issued a description of an animal the size of a young bull “desolating Gévaudan” attacking mainly women and children. The craziest rumours began to circulate about the nature of this beast: from the ravages of a werewolf to the theory about a plot with a hyena trained by local noblemen, anything seemed possible. For over three years, despite the hunting parties organized by the dragoons, the massacres continued and came to be regarded as a curse by the clergy. The beast was officially killed by a hunter, Jean Chastel, on 20 June 1767. Beyond the many engravings of the time, the potency of this event has turned it into a legend (to the extent that two wolves are portrayed on the crest of Paulhac en Margeride). The story of the beast of Gévaudan, bordering on the fantastic, has been handed down orally through the ages, with many significant representations stretching into the far corners of Lozère. There is the stone raised to commemorate Jean Chastel in his native village of La Besseyre-Saint-Mary, the museum of the beast of Gévaudan which retraces the steps of the terrible epic in Saugues, while numerous statues of the beast can be seen in the villages of the department, as in Marvejols, where the creature had never even appeared.The awesome fascination with the beast has inspired many literary and audiovisual creations. In July it also features as the theme of dramatized hikes in the commune of Langogne. SUDDEFRANCE - 80 -

Ever since 1884, every last weekend of June the commune of Langogne (Lozère) celebrates Gargantua, the insatiable giant in Rabelais’ novel of that name. Because it must be said that this clumsy demiurge is supposed to have trampled the ground he walked on to such an extent that many places still carry his name throughout France to this day. But in Lozère, especially around Langogne (to the northeast of the department) the traces of his fantastic passage are legion: in Grizac, he is said to have formed little islands with calcareous mud from the Causses clinging to his clogs; in Villeneuve, the giant’s stones are the very ones he carried under his arms and in the Tarn gorges, Rocheblave cave is said to have appeared after he tested the soil with a small column he’d broken off the rocks. So it was only natural for the people of Lozère to pay hommage to this clumsy, whimsical giant who was a bit of a topographer without knowing it. With its medieval market in July, its folk songs, parades in traditional costume and demonstrations of ancient know-how, Lagogne happily revives the make-believe gargantuan world. Fiction and reality combine during these feast days, especially with the nocturnal banquets, a true reference to this unique hero who came into the world through his mother’s ear... during a banquet!

Office du Tourisme de Langogne. Tel. 04 66 69 01 38.

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:50 Page81

COLOURS BOUVINE - BULLFIGHTING

A painstaking ritual and some flamboyant festivals The first bullfights can be traced back to the 9th century, during the feast days held by the kings of the Iberian peninsula, yet it is a spectacle that has never ceased to evolve over time. In Languedoc, bullfighting began in the 19th century and since then has captured the enthusiasm of a wider and wider public, with the added attraction that the feria takes place in the streets. Considered an integral part of Languedoc’s cultural heritage since April 2011, ferias are usually held in spring and summer in Gard, Hérault and the Eastern Pyrenees. A highspot of local life, during the feria horses and bulls have pride of place for a whole week of festivities: in Nîmes the Whitsun and Harvest ferias draw crowds into the streets, and the same scenes take place in Béziers, Céret, Palavas and Alès. The ferias are synonymous with lively celebrations, yet they are ritualized in minute detail: the bullfight in the afternoon for enthusiasts, in arenas which, like Nîmes, are loaded with history. This is followed by aperitifs, a sacred moment when aficionados and visitors mingle together, going from place to place as the fancy takes them. For the occasion, the bars move outdoors, bodegas spring up everywhere and concerts and street performances draw thousands of spectators.

The Bull at the centre of traditions In Languedoc-Roussillon the summer season is a series of local celebrations inspired by horses or bulls. The “Bouvine” blends the two, bulls and horses, being simply the generic term for the civilization and

games held in the Camargue. In these marshy lands, horses often feature as part of the escorts and local festivals in Gard and Hérault. So “abrivados” and “courses camargaises” or Camargue bullfights are

SUDDEFRANCE - 81 -

an integral part of the strong local identity, with lively events from Spring onwards. The term abrivado used to refer to the moment when the bulls were driven from the pastures to the town arena, but it has become a purely festive simulation today, in which horses and bulls set the pace. Flanked by about ten gardians or herdsmen, the cattle run through the village streets. Spectacle and atmosphere guaranteed! Today, abrivados are even organized to allow the atrapaîre or “catchers” to carry off as many bulls as they can. Once the bulls enter the arena, to the trumpeting of “l’èr di biou”, the event begins. A game of skill which involves no horses or bloodletting, but is very entertaining. The principle is that the small and lively Camargue bull has a rosette, a white pompom and string tied to its horns and is chased by the raseteur, who tries to snatch them. During the raset , the participants, dressed in white, need to be very agile to seize the precious objects. And it’s not always clear who’s chasing who, as the most ferocious bulls can easily drive the raseteur back against the barrier! Every year in Nîmes, the afeciounas (the enthusiasts) look out for the Biou d’or or golden bull, ardently supporting their future victors. And a French federation of Course Camargaise, with its headquarters in Gard, is there to govern the rules of the sport in every respect.

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:50 Page82

COLOURS CRAFTWORK

Pottery and ceramics – between modernity and tradition

s far back as the Middle Ages, Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie was a manufacturing site for a type of ceramic that was characteristically grey, light and resonant. Situated a few kilometres from the Duché d’Uzès, the city was home to some 42 potters or pipemakers during the 18th century. In the following century it produced paving stones for the Popes’ Palace in Avignon. In contrast to the traditional production of pottery for domestic use, the potters working today in Saint-Quentin are decidedly contemporary in their creations. In addition to 25 ceramics workshops, the Terra Viva gallery is a specialised showroom of contemporary ceramic art. Terralha, the annual ceramics festival which runs from 19 to 22 July 2012, is dotted throughout the village. Temporary exhibitions are installed for the occasion, providing an opportunity to discover works by many European contemporary ceramists – including those who live locally. The Mediterranean Pottery Museum which traces the history of ceramics in Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie and a specialist library are final proof that pottery is at the centre of the village’s identity. The unmistakeable features of the Anduze vase – robust, circular with a thick rim and a garland decoration around its sides - are familiar around the world. Designed for planting fruit trees such as oranges or lemons; it was the decorative feature of choice for parks and gardens throughout Europe as well as in smart homes of rich Mediterraneans. It remains popular today and several workshops are still producing them. The traditional flame colours; mixture of yellow, honey, green, olive and brown tones, have been enhanced by a new range of finishes: ceruse, aged, patina, glazed blue, green, burgundy... Most importantly, the garland decorating the sides of the vase, made up of three ribbons and rosettes and bearing the potter’s signature, are their stamp of authenticity. Anduze vases. Tourist Office. Tel: + 33 (0)4 66 61 98 17. www.vases-anduze.com Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie. Tourist Office. Tel: + 33 (0)4 66 22 74 38. www.officeculturel.com For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.sunfrance.com/artisanat

SUDDEFRANCE - 82 -

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:51 Page83

COLOURS BAGRICS - JEWELLERY

Sunshine fabrics An hour from Perpignan along a picturesque route, the textile mill in the border village of Saint-Laurentde-Cerdans (Eastern Pyrenees) has been weaving cloth since 1873. And to weave, you need a loom. Eighteen years ago Françoise and Henri Quinta took over “Les Toiles du Soleil”, the last textile mill in Roussillon. They now create fabrics in glowing stripes for table linen, canvas deckchairs and furnishing. The mill continues a tradition that is several centuries old, Catalan craft weaving having begun at the end of the 19th century, when SaintLaurent-de-Cerdans became the village of the espadrille. The textile mill was set up by the Sans & Garcerie families who became associates. At that time, only small widths of woven fabric were required to supply the nearby workshops with the canvas and soles for espadrilles. During the forties, the company branched out into household linen, but fifty years later, the activity was already dying out. The mill was on the point of closure when it was finally bought up by Françoise and Henri Quinta, keeping nine of its employees. A life-saver for the village and one which spared the mill from imminent extinction. Today, “Les Toiles du Soleil” produces two hundred different items. Its fabrics carry the Catalan colours around the world. No fabric, even the plain material, is dipped in a dye bath: only the thread is dyed and it takes a thousand of these to produce certain widths of cloth. The brand has five exclusive boutiques in Japan and has recently opened a store in New York. In addition to its Paris shop in rue du Bac, in the very chic 7th arrondissement, it is on display in many hotel-restaurants in the region, at La maison Quinta in Perpignan, and at a certain Maison Pic in Valence, which has three stars in the Michelin guide.

Les Toiles du Soleil, avenue Jean-Jaurès, Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans. Tel. 04 68 39 50 02.

Vigatane espadrilles; a Catalonian heritage Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans (Eastern Pyrenees) used to be the capital of the Catalan espadrilles known as “Vigatanes”. These supple shoes, sometimes tied with a bow, are worn to dance the Sardane and were the jewel of industry in the department for over a century. Although originally from southern Catalonia near Barcelona, the shoes arrived in the village as contraband in the mid 19th century. Even if the making of espadrilles is no longer what it once was in the area, it is still part of local heritage. The factory has been opened to the public since 2008. Made of rope, linen thread and cotton canvas, the Vigatane is part of Catalan tradition. Also well worth visiting in Saint-Laurent-deCerdans is the heritage centre and tribute to the memory of André Abet, housed in the former premises of the Union Sandalière espadrilles factory, which traces the history of this heritage.

Création Catalane Chemin du Baynat-d'en-Pouly in Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans. Tel. 04 68 54 08 68 www.espadrille-catalane.com et Maison du patrimoine et de la mémoire André Abet à Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans Tel. 04 68 39 55 75

The garnet, a speciality of Perpignan

For over two centuries, the Garnet stone has been a gem of Catalan jewellery, representing a prestigious product of arts and crafts in Rousillon. In Perpignan - the only place in France that has preserved the method of die stamping and bezel setting - the garnet guild groups together a number of craftsmen able to hand on this know-how. Inherited from the techniques used in the 17th and 18th centuries, this method sets the gem in the optimal position in the gold, a guarantee of quality. The process has been abandoned elsewhere in favour of the casting process. The jewellry of the Catalan city includes the badine cross, and the marquise ring which is often cut in the “Perpignan” style i.e. flat on the bottom and facetted on the top. The Perpignan Garnet still comes in the form of bracelets, necklaces, ear rings, pendants or broaches. And there is now a special day for the Catalan garnet in December, celebrating Saint Eloi.Note that a new Smartphone application on the theme of jewellery has just been created by Perpignan tourist office and Furet Company. Garnets are incredible!

Institut du Grenat et de la bijouterie traditionnelle 22, boulevard Wilson in Perpignan www.institutdugrenat.com

SUDDEFRANCE - 83 -

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:51 Page84

COLOURS VASES - HAYFORKS

A hayfork museum in Sauve The very charming village of Sauve (Gard) had a secret, that was jealously guarded for ten centuries: fabrication of the three-pronged hayfork made from the hackberry tree. Eight years ago the village set up a museum where this ancestral tradition is now on display. Visitors can wander through the galleries and rooms, and find information on the terminals and wall illustrations. They can delve into the secrets of how the trees are cultivated and the way the hayforks are made. The museum carries on the tradition with a workshop producing hackberry wood hayforks, still sold to livestock breeders and farmers. They are popular items of decoration for a rustic effect and are also used by professionals in recreating historical scenes.We can already tell you that the hayforks are baked in an oven.A cherry and hayfork festival is held in the village every year at the end of May.

Conservatoire de la fourche, rue des Boisseliers, in Sauve. Tel. 04 66 80 54 46. www.lafourchesauve.com

The Lussan Guinea Fowls Sold all over the world, the Lussan Guinea Fowl’s familiar disproportions have made it a classic of its time... It’s the queen of the workshop! The guinea fowl, with its tiny head and voluminous body in stylised lines, is hand decorated with graphic motives that were inspired by poultry feathers. Heidi Caillard is their creator. A trained graphic designer, graduate of a prestigious ceramics school in Switzerland, she was inspired to create this model one day while watching her birds bustling around the yard. She continues to evoke her fascination for their shape, and the abstract motif of their feathers to this day. The beautiful, exotic bird was not an immediate success; that came fifteen years later, after a number of articles had appeared in national magazines. «It was overwhelming», remembers Heidi who explains her ceramic bird’s popularity as being «due to its elegance it adapts to all surroundings; in a country kitchen or the most contemporary of lofts - its sweet appearance and its curved back just makes you want to stroke it». In 1994, in order to meet a growing demand for these figures, Adrien, her son, took over and developed the workshop which his mother had created twenty years earlier in Lussan. Les Céramiques de Lussan is still producing handcrafted and hand painted red clay ceramics. Various techniques are used, in particular that of slip casting for animal figures. Chickens, pullets and quails have now joined the famous guinea fowl All the models are designed by Heidi Caillard who, at 80 still keeps her eye on things. She also continues to teach the ceramic artists how to give a gentle expression to her beloved poultry «because this is the hardest part» she explains.

Les Céramiques de Lussan - Mas de Fan in Lussan Tel: + 33 (0)4 66 72 90 92 - www.ceramique-de-lussan.com SUDDEFRANCE - 84 -

Vallabrègues in the age of basket weaving

The name of this village, situated on the banks of the Rhône, means the “Valley of Brigands”. It is the emblematic basket weaving village in Gard, where only one basket weaver still carries on the tradition today, out of the four hundred who existed in the past. An isolation that gives this craftsman, Daniel Benibghi, something of a “bohemian chic” survivor in this village next to Provence yet still very attached to the Camargue. The basket weavers used to go there regularly to gather the reeds. They used these reeds, the yearly shoots, to make baskets to transport produce, particularly the locally grown fruit. Basket weaving fed the village and its history for centuries. To tell the tale of these craftsmen, Vallabrègues has opened a museum in a former café. It contains a stunning collection of old tools used for harvesting and working the reeds. An educational visit explains how to make articles in basketwork out of reeds, cane and other plant materials.

Musée de la vannerie Grand Café du XIXe siècle à Vallabrègues Tél. 04 66 59 48 14.

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:51 Page85

COLOURS CABINET-MAKING - LUTHERIE

Montpellier, capital of lutherie The stradivarius may be the “Mona Lisa of violins”, but far from Cremona (Italy) instrument makers have nevertheless found an important centre for lutherie in France : Montpellier, considered as the top French city for violin making.With ten lutherie and bow makers’ workshops in the centre, the city is distinguished by this concentration of craftsmen. In just thirty years, under the impetus of certain individuals, an exceptional craft has been revived, with gestures that go back 400 years! Production continues in these workshops smelling of glue and varnish, rare wood essences (hard maple for the back of the instruments, wood from the Balkans for the sides and the neck, Alpine spruce for the face). Violois, but also cellos and violas. This rare assembly of craftsmen extends the influence of the city far and wide. But there are also opportunities to meet the local public. This year, the luthiers of the Sainte-Anne neighbourhood in the heart of the city, including Frédéric Chaudière, have launched their first luthiers festival, demonstrating how the instruments are made, and where the association for lutherie and bowmaking for the development of instrument making (ALADFI) now holds an exhibition of contemporary lutherie. The Tourist Office of Montpellier regularly organizes guided tours of the workshops.

www.ot-montpellier.fr

Serge Ivorra, the cabinet maker with a passion for unearthing wood’s history A cabinet maker, born in Adissan, home of the Clairette wine; he left Pézenas at the age of seventeen to complete his Tour de France des Compagnons – quite literally a tour of France during which tradesmen and women are apprenticed to competent craftsmen – returning to his roots, seven years later and ready to ply his trade. Since then, he has lived and worked in Pézenas and lectures at the Montpellier school of architecture. For the last twenty years Serge Ivorra is the only carpenter from the Herault who specialises in heritage restoration. He is therefore charged with the delicate task of working on classified monuments. It’s no surprise therefore to hear that his small business is also classified as a Living Heritage Company: «This means that we apply the same rules of the craft that were in place a century and a half ago.» Only a handful of companies in the region are classified under this title; they all possess an exceptional and specific savoir-faire and a somewhat secular history. With his bushy hair and dungarees – every inch the part – he puzzles over the age and the shape of each piece; trying to establish its origins and its own particular story. He prefers working with local rather than exotic woods – he is a purist – his curiosity appears to know no bounds and he attaches great importance to the history of art, drawing and music. For Serge, these subjects are integral to his craft and he finds it astonishing that they are not taught as part of an apprenticeship to the trade.And if Serge has strong views on apprenticeship – it’s because he knows what it truly involves! In his workshop he is assisted by a team of four permanent apprentices, visiting members of the Compagnons network and work-experience students. He has even piloted creative projects in primary schools – in conjunction with the Sema (a society for the encouragement of craft trades) – and never ceases to be amazed by the enormous creativity of young children. SUDDEFRANCE - 85 -

The glass baubles at Claret

Breathing life and volume into a shapeless mass of incandescent material, to produce an elegant, sophisticated object. That’s the magic of glass blowing – a craft which is over 3,000 years old. In Claret, close to Montpellier, a group of craftsmen are working to preserve this art form at the town’s Halle du Verre – a unique site in France bringing together a glass museum, gallery and a workshop dedicated to the techniques and history of glass production. A rich history; one which continues to be written - since the art of glass blowing has changed. Gérard Attard uses a blow torch for glass work. A skill which requires extreme dexterity and delicacy. But for many years, his particular passion has been for the glass beads which were made in the past – mainly for the production of fake cultured pearls. He therefore uses some very special workbenches – ones which were used by farmers’ wives to make these small glass baubles in order to supplement their incomes. With his opalescent glass bars, he sets to work making these beads which will then be dipped in a mixture of mica powder, titanium and resin to give them the appearance of real pearls

Verrerie d’art in Claret 37, avenue du Nouveau-Monde in Claret - verrerie.art.free.fr Halle du Verre - 50, avenue du Nouveau-Monde in Claret www.cc-grandpicsaintloup.fr

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:51 Page86

COLOURS ACTIVITES

COLOURS OUTDOORS

Caves and walks of all types and for all tastes

ix feet underground, the region - riddled with caves and potholes - has the biggest underground network in the country. Fifteen of these sites, with their strange forms, narrow galleries and vast underground chambers, are open to the public. These remarkable caves contain stalagmite scenes, like the hundred thousand soldiers in the Trabuc caves or the Virgin and Child in the Demoiselles caves. In the Labeil cavern an underground water course springs up, while the Armand and Dargilan sites, in the heart of Lozère, hold ancient treasures. Close by, the Trabuc cave at the entry to Anduze - is a must, while the Cocalière - at the fringes of Gard - is one of the three most beautiful caves in France. Next to Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, Clamouse - the cave classified as a “picturesque scientific site” is the scene of a sound and light show that lasting the whole season, while Les Canalettes and Fontrabiouse offer the spectacle of timeless subterranean galleries. In the open air, hikes in the region follow mythical trails, from Saint James Way to the trail of the writer, Robert Louis Stevenson, from Aubrac and the Cévennes to Canigou and the Mediterranean. Near Montpellier, don’t miss the dolmens and standing stones of the massif of Hortus. Riding stables and centres are dotted around the region, including La Goutarende, the riding village in the Aude, not far from Carcassonne. Comité Régional de la Randonnée Pédestre L.R. Parc Club du Millénaire - Bât. 31, 1025, avenue Henri-Becquerel, Montpellier. Tel. 09 72 19 52 86. To learn more, please scan the QR code with your smart phone or go directly to: www.sunfrance.com/activites

SUDDEFRANCE - 86 -

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:51 Page87

Golfing for all With around twenty regional league golf courses, the Languedoc-Roussillon has much to offer for both amateurs and professionals of this sport. Originating in Scotland, this increasingly popular game will be included in the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio. Practised by those who enjoy outdoor activities and contact with nature, its rules and techniques require discipline, concentration and relaxation.Although the game itself is played on a well-defined terrain, its surrounding environment is of huge importance. A 6 to 8 kilometre walk around the fairways, in a magical setting – in good weather, certainly makes all the difference. In addition to these basic conditions which go to make the game so enjoyable, no two golf courses are the same... At Carcassonne, for example, situated at the feet of the mediaeval city, you can take in a panoramic view of the Pyrenees and the Black Mountain; and play one of the most original holes in Europe (the number 9). Designed by the architects Morandi & Harradine, the Nîmes Campagne course is reputed for the difficulty of its greens and narrow fairways which are lined by a variety of trees. Cap d’Agde golf is a demanding course which winds along the shoreline; through olive trees, palm trees and umbrella pines. In the Cévennes of Lozére, not far from the Tarn and Aubrac gorges, the Canourgue golf course is set in a hilly, wooded landscape – its many slopes and narrow fairways ensure a game that will challenge your technique.At Font-Romeu it’s impossible to swing with your feet flat on the ground! This course offers some original golfing in a picture postcard setting – the peaks of the Pyrenees under a blue Mediterranean sky. Or there is the Domaine de Falgos - also in the Eastern Pyrenees. It is amongst the most beautiful courses and you will discover some breathtaking scenery and a challenging game. The diverse mixture of our courses - those along the shoreline, the Lozére landscapes or those at high altitude in the Pyrenees - attracts an increasing number of enthusiasts each year from both France and abroad.

Mas d’Huston, strictly golf Some golf courses also offer accommodation and other activities for those seeking luxury and comfort during their stay. Domaine du golf Saint Cyprien is one such establishment. Set in 200 hectares of a birdwatching sanctuary, in the spa town of Saint-Cyprien on the Roussillon Catalan coast. Designed by the Scottish architects Tomlinson & Wright, it includes a qualifying links course for the main European circuit 2 nine-holes for 6,475 metres). In a magical setting surrounded by pines, eucalyptus and oleaster trees; watched by the local squirrel population and serenaded by the birds – you can take lessons from professionals at beginner, advanced or competition level. As a reward for all that hard work, you can treat yourself to a dip in the pool while admiring a panoramic view of the course - the spa offers the chance to relax and turn your thoughts towards dinner! Julien Boy is the head chef of Le Mas, where you can savour a mouth-watering range of Mediterranean flavours. Enthusiasts of the little white ball should be sure not to miss the Semaine du Golf which happens from 16 to 10 July - this will be its 22nd consecutive year.

Hôtel Mas D'Huston Golf & Spa. 66750 St-Cyprien - Tel. + 33 (0)4 68 37 63 63. www.hotel-mas-huston.com SUDDEFRANCE - 87 -

20 GOLF COURSES IN LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

COLOURS GOLF • Carcassonne. 18 holes- par 71 5,758 metres.Tel. + 33 (0)6.13.20.85.43 www.golf-de-carcassonne.com • Narbonne Sainte Rse. Training centre and golf course “Pitch & Putt” with 18 holes – 1,200 metres. Tel: + 33 (0)4.68.27.37.99 www.golfsterosenarbonne.com • Alès Ribaute. 6 holes- par 19 1,000 metres.Tel. + 33 (0)6.08.24.24.10 www.golg-ales-ribaute.fr • Nîmes Campagne. 6,135 m - 18 holes par 72.Tel. + 33 (0)4.66.70.17.37 www.golfnimescampagne.com • Nîmes Vacquerolle golf course 18 holes - par 72 – 6,185 metres Tel: + 33 (0)4 66 23 33 33 www.golf-nimes.com/ • Uzès. 9 holes - par 36, 2,955 metres Tel: + 33 (0)4.66.22.40.03 www.golfuzes.fr • Cap d'Agde. 18 holes par 72 6,279 metres.Tel. + 33 (0)4.67.26.54.40 www.golf.ville-agde.fr/ • Coulondres (Saint-Gély-du-Fesc). 18 holes - par 73 – 6,149 metres Tel: + 33 (0)4.67.84.13.75 www.coulondres.com • Fontcaude. 18 holes - par 6,250 metres Tel: + 33 (0)72 - 04 67 45 90 10. www.golfhotelmontpellier.com • La Grande-Motte. 18 holes- par 72 6200 m and18 holes par 58 – 3,200 metres Tel: + 33 (0)4 67 56 05 00 www.lagrandemotte.fr/ • Lamalou-les-Bains. 9 holes par 35 – 2,600 metres Tel. + 33 (0)4.67.95.08.47 www.golf-lamalou-les-bains.com • Montpellier – Massane. 18 holes par 72 – 6,081 metres Tel. 04 67 87 87 87 www.massane.com • Saint-Thomas (Béziers). 18 holes par 72 – 6,131 metres Tel. 04 67 39 03 09 www.golfsaintthomas.com • Domaine de Barres (Langogne). 9 holes par 36 – 2,700 metres Tel: 04 66 46 08 37 www.domainedebarres.com/ • La Garde-Guérin (Villefort) 9 holes - par 32 - 1,864 metres Tel: + 33 (0)4 66 46 91 90 • Le Sabot-La Canourgue. 18 holes par 71 – 5,452 metres Tel. 04 66 32 84 17 www.golf-desgorgesdutarn.com/ • Falgos Golf Resort (St-Laurent-de-Cerdans) 18 holes par 70 of 5,177 metres Tel: + 33 (0)4.68.39.51.42. www.falgos.fr • Font-Romeu. 9 holes- par 36 2,517 metres.Tel. + 33 (0)4 68 30 10 78. www.golf-font-romeu.fr • Saint-Cyprien. 18 holes- par 73 6,475 metres.Tel. 04 68 37 63 63. www.saintcyprien-golfresort.com • Montescot (Perpignan) 9 holes par 36 – 3,027 metres Tel. + 33 (0)4.68.82.79.29 www.golfclubdemontescot.com/

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:51 Page88

COLOURS RECREATION PARKS

The Labyrinth in Villeneuve

Zip-line water crossing at Saint-Jean Picture a 170 metre zip-line stretched just above the water-line. That’s just one of the adventures which awaits at the Aventuriers de Saint-Jean leisure park fun for all the family at Saint-Jean-Pla-de-Corts, just 20 minutes away from Perpignan. Test your nerve on one of the many zip-lines strung through the trees which go from 3 to 20 metres above the ground. For those who prefer to keep their feet on the ground – there is also the chance to get in a little archery practice - perfect for a summer’s day.

This labyrinth was opened three years ago on a site opposite Les Rochers de Maguelonne – it offers around fifty family activities. In a series of clearings, you can discover the world of knights and castles. Information panels tell the story of life as a mediaeval lord as well as the rules of courtship and rites of chivalry. In different zones of the circuit, amateur knights can take part in the quest for the Holy Grail; and carry off a trophy if they can correctly answer all the questions!

Les Aventuriers de Saint-Jean in Saint-Jean-Pla-de-Corts. Tel: + 33 (0)6 71 60 37 44

Abracadabranch In a little hamlet in the heart of the Cévennes called Le Moina, aerial games await you at Abracadabranche, a treetop adventure park with a landscaped area set in the middle of a farm. A crazy day, like something out of an Emir Kusturica film, with bathtubs in the branches, musical milk cartons and other zany objects. For the last six seasons here, between Anduze and Lasalle, the public has been able to choose from several different courses. There is a course for children aged 2 and upwards, with no less than thirty different activities: ropeslides, walking nets, climbing nets and rope bridges for the little ones. Adults have their own course too, with seventy different activities. The farm is right by a river so you can spend the whole day here and enjoy a picnic by the river Salendrique.

Parc Abracadabranche Le Moina, Thoiras in Anduze. Tel. 04 66 85 04 71.

Be a Speed King Opened two years ago, the “Pays des Carrioles” (Cart land) is unique in France. And for a good reason: the man who created it is a car mechanics lecturer, and a speed king of sorts! Here, you can rent your soapbox for an ecological game that developsawareness of speed and trajectory. It’s a good start to learning how to avoid becoming a reckless driver. There’s a choice of different modes of transport, adapted to the ages of our future drivers. Girls and boys are only allowed to drive the soapboxes from aged 5 and upwards.The younger ones can climb aboard the push-carts or the goat cart, pulled by the animal itself. So go on, give it a try!

Au Pays des Carrioles, Mas Amadou in La Boissière. Tel. 04 67 59 64 14.

A family day out at Aux Petits Sabots The donkey dairy farm “Aux Petits Sabots” in Berlou, a small wine growing village in the foothills of the Cévennes, breeds donkeys from Provence. Families can enjoy a wide range of activities, including a donkey trek, as well as discover the world of donkey farming and the production of cosmetics derived from their milk. Trekking has been organised around a variety of themes and outings last from 2 to 6 days. The donkeys are there to take care of small children and your luggage. As guests, small visitors can holiday at the farm and discover all its activities – school visits are a regular feature – celebrate special occasions and take part in lessons about donkey farming. This farm offers the opportunity to learn and, above all, to have fun.

Open all year round – subject to reservation. Aux Petites Sabots - 34360 Berlou. Tel: + 33 (0)6 32 41 80 50. SUDDEFRANCE - 88 -

The Labyrinthe, Mas d’Andos in Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone. Tel: + 33 (0)4 27 04 44 44.

Meet the kangaroos in Carcassonne The Australian park opened its doors to the public for the first time nearly ten years ago and is dedicated to Australia and its wildlife. The brainchild of people passionate about this continent – the park offers you the opportunity to discover Oceania, both through its wildlife (real, live kangaroos and wallabies) and the traditions off the Aboriginal peoples. There is even a section reserved for those who want to try their hand at gold panning! A day full of surprises for all the family.

The Australian Park, chemin des Bartavelles in Carcassonne Tel: + 33 (0)4 68 25 86 83.

The Maya adventure in Roquemaure Croc invested rivers, labyrinths, safaris and jungle trails in search of a lost treasure - the Amazonia attraction park delivers thrills and adventure with the Mayas - including many aquatic adventures. Ideal for children from ages 3 to 12.

The Amazonia Park in Roquemaure Tel: + 33 (0)4 66 82 53 92.

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:51 Page89

COLOURS ANIMAL PARKS

Sigean Safari park Situated between Narbonne and Perpignan, Sigean safari park hosts almost four thousand species in an area of three hundred hectares.The animal park has had links with the world of research and the protection of species for nearly twenty years. The wildlife has been built up so well that the species develop in a way that is very similar to that of their original environment. Researchers often come to conduct their first work on observing large primates. There are two ways of visiting the park: following a circuit by car or discovering it on foot ! Quiet and respect for the safety regulations are compulsory.Guided tours available on demand.

Réserve de Sigean - RD 6009, in Sigean. Tel. 04 68 48 20 20 - www.reserveafricainesigean.fr

The marine city of sharks

Gévaudan: on the wolf trail This wolf park, located in Lozère - the most “natural” department in France - has just celebrated its 25th birthday ! The presence of wolves in this legendary, unspoilt territory, allows scientists to observe the predators in a natural setting while allowing the public to get to know the big bad wolf a little better. Gérard Ménatory, a journalist on the Midi Libre newspaper, went to fetch the first two wolves in Poland. The Gévaudan wolf park now has a hundred wolves, an exhibition programme and develops themes for all types of public. For children, there are educational days, workshops on how to grimace, sculpting and story-telling activities throughout the year.

Parc des loups de Gévaudan Sainte-Lucie, Saint-Léger-de-Peyre. Tel. 04 66 32 09 22.

The Seaquarium in Grau-du-Roi, at the Palais de la Mer, zooms in on endangered species, sea turtles or seahorses. The aquarium has always had the biggest shark tunnel in Europe. Now it is has a trail specially for children and just recently, a theme space on turtles Muséo Tortues - as well as the amazing shark aquarium. You can still see a replica of the great white shark ! You can watch the nurse shark and the seals and otters at play behind the glass wall of the observatory. At Seaquarium you can see twenty-five different species of live sharks and there are plaster casts, films and illustrations to explain how they develop. Interactive terminals and games add a fun aspect to the subject.

Seaquarium - Port-Camargue in Grau-du-Roi. Tel. 04 66 51 57 57

The Casteil animal park Situated in the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park, is an astonishing nature reserve – created over 20 years ago, mainly by chance, by Dominique Cases and his family. Over twenty hectares and a 3.5 kilometre circuit, you can spot lions, deer, llamas, Saarloos wolves, yaks, monkeys and even a camel! A thrill-packed Noah’s Ark.

The Casteil animal park Tel: + 33 (0)4 68 05 67 54.

The tortoise valley in Sorède Did you know that the Maures and the Albères mountains were amongst the last remaining Hermann’s tortoise sanctuaries in Europe? Or that the Banuyls region was the last hexagonal refuge for the Spanish turtle? If you didn't already know - you certainly will once you have visited tortoise valley where around thirty different species of tortoise bimble around the cork oaks and the cigales in the heart of a wooded park.

The tortoise valley in Sorède Tel: + 33 (0)4 68 95 50 50.

The zoo and hothouse in Montpellier The zoo's main attractions include bears, a pair of tapirs, sea lions, howler monkeys, stags, zebras and a lion pit. Information panels are dotted around the park together with casts of animal footprints. Entrance to the zoo is free. Just next door, the Amazonian hothouse - a unique site in France recreates the environment of the Amazonian Forest and is home to over 500 animals and 3,500 tropical plants.

Hothouse and Zoo 50, avenue Agropolis Montpellier. Tel: + 33 (0)4 67 54 45 23.

The Randals Bison Ranch

Mare Nostrum Opened five years ago in Odysseum – a new district in Montpellier – and recently expanded, the Mare Nostrum aquarium first leads the visitor into a world of underwater Mediterranean caves. Three hundred species and thirty thousand marine animals coexist in its waters. This recently completed vision provides an intelligent and fresh perspective on aquatic life. Special spaces are reserved for children throughout the tour.The design evokes the set of “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea”.

Randals ranch imported its first American Bison to the Cévennes, in the Gard, at the beginning of the 90’s. The farm soon became active in the tourist sector through the organisation of western week-ends and guided tours of the ranch. Please note that the ranch is only open at the week-end.

Randals Bison in Lanuéjols. Tel: + 33 (0)4 67 82 73 74.

Mare Nostrum - Odysseum in Montpellier. Tel. 04 67 13 05 50. SUDDEFRANCE - 89 -

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:51 Page90

COLOURS CANOEING - RAFTING

Rafting, canyoning or canoeing; be sure to make a splash!

Those who are hooked on aquatic sports can choose from a whole maze of lakes, rivers and torrents in the region: canoeing and kayaking, rafting or canyoning... just pick your paddle! The idealized image of Languedoc-Roussillon is the Tarn Gorges. The long turquoise ribbon cutting its way through the limestone, with the occasional real canyon, is the summer spot for cooling down. Canoe trekking has long been the most popular activity. But there are other sites where you can practise whitewater sports: the hinterland is full of rivers and mountain streams, and almost everywhere the water has hollowed out its course in the limestone plateaux or plains. Families will look for the refreshing calm of high mountain lakes, like the well-known Villeneuve-de-laRaho or Bouillouses in the Eastern Pyrenees, Naussac in Lozère or the artificial lake of Salagou in Hérault. Others may prefer the cool of the river: the Gardon near Uzès, meandering peacefully beneath the arches of the Pont du Gard. Or the Hérault Gorges from Ganges (Gard) to Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert (Hérault): the Hérault river is a paradise for canoes, floating along in the green water past the rocks - dense Jurassic limestone rocks, where swimmers stretch out in the sun. But those who want more thrilling sensations will leave aside the “cushy” version in favour of a descent in turbulent waters: but be careful, certain very fast-flowing rivers are only accessible to experienced or supervised sportsmen! The mixed canyoning technique, a combination of potholing, diving and climbing to follow the course of the stream is a popular new sport. But there are also possibilities for rafting, hydrospeed or

whitewater swimming in these mountain torrents. While Lozère, often called “the water tower” of France, has several well-known rivers (the Tarn, the Lot, the Allier) each department is an interesting destination. In Gard, the navigable routes are concentrated around the Cèze, the Vidourle and the Gardon. In Hérault, the Hérault and Orb rivers are very popular destinations. The diversity of the river Aude offers sportsmen several stretches of river depending on the flow rate and the degree of difficulty one is looking for, whereas in the Eastern Pyrenees, sports activities focus on two coastal rivers, the Tech and the Tet. Moreover, the Llech Gorges in this department are ideal for rafting. In most cases,

SUDDEFRANCE - 90 -

you can hire a boat and set off alone, although canyoning and rafting are sports that are practised in a group, or accompanied by a qualified mountain river guide. Several excursion guides have been published by the departmental canoeing-kayaking committees: the overall level of difficulty and the levels of the most difficult passages are systematically shown for each river.

For further information contact the: Comité Régional de Canoë-Kayak du Languedoc- Roussillon Tel. 04 67 82 16 63 www.sunfrance.com/eauxvives

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:51 Page91

COLOURS KITE-SURFING - SAILING

The green trails – 100% nature Winding their way through the region, the extent of this trail network continues to grow - a haven for mountain bikers, roller skaters and other non-motorised travellers. They provide safe access to beaches; bordering the lake (Lez Green Route, Montpellier-la-mer, 6 km.), running along the canal, beneath the shade of the plane trees (from Béziers to Portiragnes, 15 km.). Some of these border the waterways; Narbonne’s route in Saint-Pierre-la-Mer (29 km.) runs along its canals - in particular the chemin de halage of the Midi canal – and the lake at Gruissan, and the Carnon route at La Grande-Motte (6km) leads to the beaches. Away from the coast, these routes travel through orchards and vineyards offering visitors the chance to discover the marshy plains of the Petite Camargue (from Vauver to Gallician, 7 km) – or to take in some of the charming villages (along the 14 km Agly route) presided over by the Canigou mountain. The longest route, the “Passa Païs” in the Haute-Languedoc, constitutes 59 kilometres of a disused railway track. In the Hérault, it winds through the Jaur valley which runs along the feet of the Somail and the Espinouse mountains. In the heart of the Garrigue, amongst green oaks, holm oaks, rock roses and white heather - or through shady forests, chestnut woods and vineyards - it marches as far as Mons-la-Trivalle, crossing the Eiffel bridge, after a not-to-be-missed visit to Olargues; a mediaeval town famous for being one of the most beautiful in France. Its route crosses the HautLanguedoc regional nature park, taking you to a number of tourist sites: The Devèze cave, the Prehistoric Museum in Saint-Pons-de-Thomières, the house and church of the Knights Hospitallers in Saint-Vincent d’Olargues, to name a few.

Sail the “Mare Nostrum” As feared as it is venerated by yachtsmen, the Mediterranean and especially the Gulf of Lion, which washes the shores of Languedoc-Roussillon, offers a vast playground for all lovers of sailing.Shifting winds, year-round sunshine, warm waters in summer, Languedoc-Roussillon is a true sailing region, with its 21 marinas, including Port Camargue, the biggest in Europe. Sailboats or motor boats for hire, with or without a skipper, port facilities adapted to yachtsmen, tourist activities within easy reach of mooring, regattas in summer and winter, nautical trade fairs, national and international level sports events, the presence of great yachtsmen... all the assets to make Languedoc-Roussillon a true “land” of the sea!

SUDDEFRANCE - 91 -

When the wind gets up...

Flysurf, kite-surf, kiteboard, traction kite... Whatever the name or the inventor. It was on the beaches of Languedoc that kite surfing was born, as practised today in the four corners of the globe. They have become the signatures of our beaches: the multicoloured kite surf wings against the azure blue. While it is hard to establish the true origins of kite surfing, it was here that, in 1996, the first fairly stable prototypes emerged. The concept of navigation pulled by kites dreamed up by the Legaignoux brothers, gained altitude: in the region, the first “test pilots” in the discipline, not content to slide over water, began flying through the air! Today there are 50,000 kite surf enthusiasts in France and perhaps 5,000 who practise the sport on our beaches. The new sons of Aeolus flock to the coast from Espiguette, in the Camargue to SaintCyprien in the Eastern Pyrenees. In Hérault the most popular spots are between the magnificent Espiguette beach, Port-Camargue, Carnon, Palavas, Les Aresquiers, le Cap d’Agde and Sète. The sole restriction in practising the sport is the arrival of swimmers in the summer. For several years now, kite surfers have reserved areas, in Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone, Espiguette and, starting this summer, a few square metres of beach at Petit Travers (Carnon) and Grand Travers (La Grande-Motte).

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:52 Page92

COLOURS GREEN STATION

Pyrenean ski resorts

The mountains in summer: there’s so much to do The winter sports stations don’t just close their doors when spring arrives. They swap their white winter drapes for a carpet of green and their skis and snow shoes for walking boots, mountain bikes or even donkeys! Mountain stations offer a multitude of outdoor activities for you to enjoy in an environment that’s bursting with energy and floral life! One of these stations is the Bolquère-Pyrénées 2000, set in the heart of the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park, with its lakeside trails. Les Bouillouses (pictured above right) or the Matemale, encircled by the mountain peaks and offering not only a stunning panoramic view, but also the chance to meet some of the local wildlife - chamois, wood grouse, mountain sheep, marmots and vultures, as well as try your hand at paragliding, canyoning or rafting in the limpid waters of the Canigou mountain and where you will discover some of the best Catalan canyons. Not far from the Mediterranean beaches, the Espace Cambre d’Aze is the chance to practice some more restful activities – fishing, caving or taking a dip in the thermal spas of Llo or Saint Thomas. The Belcaire lake at the Camurac station in the Aude is perfect for a dip and the Pays de Sault is criss-crossed with mountain bike trails and foot paths; offering the chance to discover the majestic forests and the spectacular, wild gorges of Rébenty. Or perhaps you would prefer exploring some of the many Visigoth castles before taking the Cathar Way, which runs through the Pays de Sault, from Belvis to Comus - passing through the Picaussel forest. In the Cévennes, the Bleymard Mont-Lozère station is an

ideal place to pick up the route taken by Robert Louis Stevenson in 1878 - when he travelled almost 252 kilometres with his donkey, Modestine. Donkey hire and guided walks are available on this “grande randonnée” trail (GR70) which goes across the peaks of Mount Lozére, the Gévaudan and the Cévennes valleys – you can also follow the route in stages, on pony back or on foot. Thermal spas offer a moment to relax and absorb the benefits of pure mountain water and the local cuisine is full of local specialities to delight your taste buds – these are just two of the reasons why your visit is sure to be memorable.

www.sunfrance.com/montagnes

SUDDEFRANCE - 92 -

• Les Angles. 1600-2000 m. Tel. 04 68 04 32 76 • Bolquère - Pyrénées 2000. 1800-2250 m. Tel. 04 68 30 12 42 • Camurac. 1400-1800 m. Tel. 04 68 20 31 77 • Cerdagne Puigmal. 1800-2700 m. Tel. 04 68 04 72 94 • Espace Cambre-d’Aze (Eyne - Saint-Pierre-dels-Forcats). 1600-2400 m. Tel. 04 68 04 08 01 • Espace Nordique du Capcir. 1500-2400 m. Tel. 04 68 04 49 86 • Font-Romeu. 1600-2250 m. Tel. 04 68 30 68 30 • Formiguères. 1500-2400 m. Tel. 04 68 04 47 35 • Porté-Puymorens. 1600-2500 m. Tel. 04 68 04 82 41 • Puyvalador. 1700-2400 m. Tel. 04 68 04 44 83 • La Quillane. 1600 m. Tel. 04 68 04 22 25

Cévennes

• Aubrac Sud - Bonnecombe 1350-1470 m. Tel. 04 66 32 39 53 • Le Bleymard-Mont-Lozère. 1400-1700 m. Tel. 04 66 48 66 48 • Les Bouviers - Grandrieu. 1400-1500 m. Tel. 04 66 47 41 54 • Laubert-Plateau du Roy. 1200-1450 m. Tel. 04 66 47 71 37 • Mas de la Barque. 1340-1680 m. Tel. 04 66 46 92 72 • Mont Aigoual, Prat-Peyrot. 1200-1500 m. Tel. 04 67 73 19 80 • Nasbinals. 1400-1500 m. Tel. 04 66 32 55 73

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:52 Page93

COLOURS THE ART OF LIVING

COLOURS PRESTIGE

A tailor-made break

hether traditional or high class, accommodation in the Languedoc is extremely refined. The Languedoc-Roussillon landscape is vast and varied; from its coastline which opens onto the Golfe du Lion to the soft, green valleys of its interior, you will find a host of beautiful places which reflect and celebrate the local lifestyles. Here, we have stopped wanting to be somewhere else. Most importantly – there is an enormous range of accommodation to choose from. A gîte holiday will delight visitors looking for a real family experience in a traditional setting - beautifully decorated by local hosts; delighted to welcome visitors and proud to show off the beauty their region. Along the coast, holiday villages and comfortable hotels provide an ideal base for the perfect seaside holiday – beaches, pools, spas and gyms provide something for everyone. The region’s “Qualité Sud de France” label on the door is the sign that you can set down your suitcases with confidence. In addition, the “Cercle Prestige” label brings together a group of over fifty establishments offering exceptional service and accommodation. This label has been established by Sud de France Development as part of a high-end tourism offer. There are a wide range of destinations to choose from: escape to the countryside in an authentic bastide, spend a magical night within the walls of a Benedict monastery, or dine under the stars in the restaurant of a Catalan golf hotel, experience the epicurean delights at a wine growing domaine... It represents the essence of refined tourism - capable of satisfying the most fervent desire for discovery and passion. For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.sunfrance.com/prestige

SUDDEFRANCE - 93 -

www.sunfrance.com/qualite

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:52 Page94

COLOURS BED & BREAKFAST

Magical moments When he finally found the place of his dreams, André Breton famously said «I stopped wishing I was somewhere else».Visitors to the region can choose from a wide range of B&B experiences. Over a period of fifty years, the concept of this type of accommodation – invented in the 50’s by the Frenchman Emile Aubert, to enable those on lower incomes to holiday on farms (themselves often grateful for the extra income) - has significantly evolved. The basic principles of relaxation, fresh air and plenty of good food remain, however, exactly the same. Today, the five departments of Languedoc–Roussillon are home to almost 3,000 B&B’s – members of the “Gîtes de France”, “Clévacances” or other specialised groups – providing clean, pleasant, no-frills accommodation in some superb locations – a real heaven on earth! Magical locations for a special night - or a memorable week, often as discreet as they are impressive – a chance for you to discover some surprising places. At Carcassonne in the Aude, a husband and wife team of decorators have opened “La Maison Coste”, a superb establishment in the lower city offering five rooms – two of which are suites. Chez “Le ferme de Cornadel”, at Anduze in the Gard, you will find cosy, country rooms, each with their own grape variety name, in a tastefully restored barn. At Fontans, between Aubrac and Margeride in the Lozère, another husband and wife team opened the doors of “La Grange d’Emilie” two years ago. It is a true haven of peace; offering top-class accommodation in charming rooms which have kept a touch of their past in spite of their contemporary style.

A guaranteed change of scene!

In Montpellier, the Baudon de Mauny hotel is the essence of elegance and sophistication. Originally a town house in the centre of town, it was converted into a luxury bed & breakfast establishment four years ago by the Bordas family (photo). The house oozes class from its very stones - unusual high ceilings, sophistication and inherent charm are reflected in harmonious colour schemes.

Anyone for a Yurt? A treehouse? Or are you more inclined towards an eco-break? Over the last few years, “concept” bed & breakfasts and gîtes have become popular. At Planès, in a small village in the Eastern Pyrenees at 1,550 metres, “l’Orri de Planès” is an original gîte auberge that allies comfort with an ecolifestyle. In the Orb valley in the Hérault, “la Ferme d’Art” is a working farm on 3.5 hectares which uses renewable energies. Today, the quest for “a change of scene” is at a crossroads. At Creissan in the Hérault, “La Combe Mouis” offers you the chance to sleep in a gypsy caravan with views over the Saint-Chinian grapevines. In Sorède in the Eastern Pyrenees, “Au soleil Mongol” is the chance to sleep in a real Mongolian Yurt, in a cork oak forest with views of the Pyrenees. Even more exotic – tree-houses have become all the rage. In Lozere, “L’Oustaou de Joséphine” offers accommodation in a treehouse nestled in the branches of a chestnut tree - and an uninterrupted view of the Cévennes. In Castries, near Montpellier, the Domaine Saint-Jean de l’Arbousier has two tree-houses from which you can enjoy splendid views of both the sea and the foothills of the Cévennes. In Prats-de-Mollo in the Eastern Pyrenees at MontOZ’Arbres, you can try your hand at zip-lining during the day and sleep close to the stars in a tree-house surrounded by pine trees (photo). Unforgettable.

Sud of France quality This label is a guarantee of a warm and professional welcome, quality and comfort at the region's over 700 tourist establishments and sites. Whether in accommodation, restaurants, wine cellars, sales outlets for regional products,

tourist or cultural sites, everyone concerned is committed to a rigorous approach. All these establishment are fully competent to welcome customers in English and to favour the welcome of people with reduced mobility as well as being dedicated to providing clear and concise SUDDEFRANCE - 94 -

information about all the cultural and leisure activities available in Languedoc-Roussillon.

Find out more at: www.sunfrance.com/qualite

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 17:07 Page95

COLOURS THERMALISME - BALNÉOTHÉRAPIE

THE 13 SPAS

• Alet-les-Bains This small Aude resort enjoys a pleasant microclimate. The hot springs feed the centre where digestive and metabolic conditions are treated. • Amélie-les-Bains One of the first spas of France located in the Pyrénées-Orientales. It deals with rheumatic and respiratory diseases. • Avène-les-Bains The Sainte-Odile d’Avène springs, in Hérault, are at the forefront of research in the treatment of skin diseases, especially for burn victims. • Bagnols-les-Bains 21 km from Mende in Lozère, this station located 900 m above sea level, the water at this spa gushes forth at 41.5°C. Rich in fluorine, mineral salts and rare gases, it is used for ENT disorders and rheumatology. • Allègre Les Fumades-les-Bains Its cold sulphurous waters, rich in calcium bicarbonate, make this Gard resort a specialist in diseases of the skin and respiratory system. • La Chaldette The water at 35.6°C from this resort in the Lozère contains bicarbonate and sodium with a sedative and decongestant effect, ideal for ENT and intestinal disorders. • Lamalou-les-Bains The oligometallic and ferruginous waters of this Hérault spa are famed for the treatment of pain and nervous disorders. • Molitg-les-Bains Molitg, in the Pyrénées-Orientales, is a resort specialising in the treatment of dermatological, respiratory, and rheumatological conditions. • La Preste At the gates of Spain in the PyrénéesOrientales, the presence of sulphurous and radioactive springs led to the development of an important resort in the nineteenth century. • Rennes-les-Bains The warm and sulphated waters of this Aude resort are used to treat rheumatism. • Vernet-les-Bains ENT disorders and rheumatism are treated in this town in the PyrénéesOrientales. • Balaruc Located along the Hérault coast, Balaruc is the second biggest spa resort in France. Its warm waters containing trace elements have healing properties for the joints and legs. • Le Boulou South of Perpignan in the PyrénéesOrientales, Le Boulou is a charming little village where cardio-arterial and digestive conditions are treated.

Spas galore! The Languedoc-Roussillon boasts no fewer than 12 spas. A wide selection to choose from for the ultimate in wellness. In the last ten years, conventional spa health treatments have taken on an added dimension of wellness and relaxation. Massage rooms, beauty treatments, clay baths, whirlpools and saunas have all emerged to meet the expectations of a new clientèle in search of comfort and pleasant sensations, all the while surrounded by magical countryside! Now each year sees nearly 90,000 patients attend the region's spas. In the Pyrénées-Orientales between Céret and Arles-sur-Tech, 30 kilometres from the Mediterranean coast, the hot springs of Amélie-les-Bains are famous for their rich sulphur content. The Romans built the first baths there. And these thermal spas built on the sites of those ancient baths now offer you a world of total relaxation before heading out to conquer the peaks of the Albères or the Canigou. A stone's throw from Spain, Le Boulou is the perfect blend of spa and tourist resort. The complex is part of a vast area dominated by the fragrant plants of the scrubland, ideal for long and reinvigorating walks after your relaxation treatment. In Molitg-les-Bains, near Prades, the baths nestle in the hollow of the Castellane Gorges at the foot of the medieval fortress of Paracolls, near the old village. With its weightless mud baths and kneading showers, the thermal spa promises no end of pummelling delights! The resort of Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste offers an opportunity to combine hydrotherapy and nature with an exploration of Catalan art. Here in the old village, whose walls are steeped in history, the combined benefits of warm water (44 ° C) and sulphur are guaranteed to help you forget your fatigue and nagging pains. At 310 metres in the Upper Aude Valley, the resort of Rennes-les-Bains has been devoted to spa treatments since ancient times. Its traditional services have recently been boosted with a fitness suite and a beauty centre – an ideal combination with the pleasures of exploring the Aude countryside. In Hérault, Balaruc, Lamalou-les-Bains and Avène-les-Bains all offer a chance to try out this new spa approach, not to mention Allègre-les-Fumades in the Cévennes or La Chaldette in Lozère. What's more, these spas are joined by the many thalassotherapy centres in La Grande-Motte, Banyuls, Port-Barcarès, Canet-en-Roussillon...

www.thalasso-thermale.com

www.sunfrance.com

For more information, scan this QR code with your smart phone or log on to: www.sunfrance.com/bien_etre

SUDDEFRANCE - 95 -

72-96 COULEURS - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 20/06/12 11:52 Page96

COLOURS BEAUTY – SPA

In Lozère, a mix of therapy and well-being La Chaldette, a thermal station is the successful result of integrating spa activities with green tourism – offering a cocktail of therapy and well-being in an extraordinary setting designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte, world famous architect, urban landscaper and designer who was also responsible for the region's André-Malraux multimedia building in Béziers, the renovation and design of the airport, and the Town Hall and théâtre in Nîmes.

Spa and massages for a relaxing break In a complicated world, taking care of yourself has become a necessity. Between Perpignan and Nîmes, there are a large number of top class establishments offering the chance to get away and pamper yourself. «Our philosophy is to offer a holiday for your skin - and for your body; by applying the ancient beauty rituals and an approach to life inherited from the Asian dynasties» explains Anna Koleva, creator of the highly elegant spa “Sensotek” in Montpellier (photo). At her spa institute, treatments are based primarily on energising plants and roots from Asia and stimulating plants from the Amazon as well as Kombucha - which is fermented as a tea and is a potent antioxidant. The natural products used even form the basis of a range of cosmetics. A place for total relaxation. Other spas offer rituals based on clay, algae, muds, shea

butter, honey, argan oil or even plant powders. The range of treatments on offer is impressive. The therapeutic properties of these products and essential oils, allied with true expertise, offer a whole new world of well-being to visitors. Whether they offer swim spas, Jacuzzis or saunas – these centres are devoted to the pursuit of well-being; using both traditional massages and shiatsu techniques, reflexology or ayurvedic massages based on the principles of traditional Indian philosophy. Staying with the exotic ... you can also enjoy a spot of pampering at a Haman. The famous Bain d’épices in Montpellier offers women the chance to try out the ancient ritual of beauty and relaxation and enjoy a glass of spicy mint tea in a smart, unusual setting. Whether you are looking for a little calm or a shot of energy - help to relax, lose weight or just get fit – this is where well-being is within the reach of all!

Beauty is a speciality of the South! The Languedoc-Roussillon has long been a region ready to invest in the development of beauty products and wellbeing. With spas that have been used since Roman times, and the oldest medical university in France at Montpellier –the claim that Languedoc-Roussillon has a long tradition of caring for your body is no exaggeration. There are currently several dozen laboratories working to improve and develop beauty products using the region's natural riches. At the top of the list is Eau thermale Avène, named after the Hérault thermal station, used by the Fabre laboratories and which has developed an increasingly well-known range of

moisturising creams and body treatments. Other laboratories such as Delrieu or Vivaligne are also developing top quality products. And for several years now, the production of cosmetics based on organic and natural products is experiencing rapid growth. Bioreline, in the Gard, has developed vegebiotics; centred on the beneficial properties of plants and using only those which are organically farmed. Little Big bio – a laboratory recently created (2008) in the Hérault, is working to develop a range of ethical, natural African products as part of a fair trade action designed to respect human beings and the environment. SUDDEFRANCE - 96 -

Located on the Aubrac plateau, at an altitude of 1,000 metres, the station is perfect for walking enthusiasts; offering the chance to take in pastures, moorlands, forests and lakes, it is very close to the ski stations. The spring waters of the Chaldette, at 35°C are still used for cures – but their beneficial qualities (using modern hydrotherapy techniques) are also used in well-being and fitness treatments. In contrast to the salt waters of Chaldette, at Bagnols-les-Bains the springs are sulphurous. They were amongst the most popular “aqua calidae” in Roman times. At the foot of Mont-Lozère, not far from the Lozère capital of Mende, the station boasts a hot spring which bubbles out of the mountain at a constant temperature of 41° as well as a cold water spring. First opened at the start of the 19th century, it has seen a number of renovation and improvement projects; in 1998 the station added a fitness centre which operates separately from the thermal cure sector.

COUV SUD DE FRANCE - ANGLAIS 2012_Mise en page 1 19/06/12 13:07 Page2