Wellness
IN THE WEST
Step back in time at the pioneering Golden Door.
Best of the West
5 Amangiri turns 15; Assouline’s Palm Springs; bird-watching basics.
A hillside house and its native gardens embody the Southern California indooroutdoor ethos, thanks to a mindful owner and a talented designer who just happen to be best friends.
When the founders of Pom Pom at Home relocated after 30 years to start again, it wasn’t downsizing—it was uplifting. We tour their effortlessly stylish home.
One of the country’s premier spas is cultivating a healthy food-focused wellness program and a kitchen garden that showcase the very best in California produce.
What to do in your garden, wherever you are in the West.
hearty cooking that expresses the terroir of the region.
resorts and institutes throughout the West are the latest in restorative retreats.
Easy, healthy recipes from the latest cookbook by Rancho Gordo, the Napabased legume innovator.
The bison-focused restaurant RGE RD in Alberta is a model for sustainable,
Bar Etoile is the model of a new kind of wine bar: a little French, a lot California, and stylish through and through.
Travel
Escapes
From historic healing heat to longevity science, these
Expert tips on what to do in Laguna Beach, Scottsdale, and Northwest Idaho.
Voices of the
Author and adventurer Caroline Paul on how to improve cognitive function through outdoor exploration.
ON THE COVER Healing heat at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge.
Photograph by THOMAS J. STORY
A Wealth of Wellness
In the past few years, it seems “wellness,” “mind-body,” “holistic,” and other formerly fringe terms have become centered in our daily lives. It used to be that you did healthy things, like eating mostly vegetables as a lifestyle statement or fast or diet, or went on a retreat to meditate, or had a massage or cold plunge or steam treatment at a dedicated facility, and only once in a while. Blame it on social media, good science, or just living in the West, but it seems like the aforementioned are all non-negotiables for anyone who takes living well in all ways seriously. Which is why when we put together this, our annual wellness issue, it can seem as if it’s like so many other issues of Sunset : full of tours of homes that are soothing and serene and sustainable, delicious recipes (many of them with a local, seasonal, organic, plant-forward bent), reports on resorts and hotels that feature spas and health treatment programs, and celebrations of people, places, and activities that are not only fun and immersive and celebratory of this Western lifestyle (which is to say a little outdoorsy, a lot design-oriented, and always botanically minded) but also very good for your sense of self and all the good things that come from living that way. Wellness has long been at the core of what it means to live in the West, which is why this all feels so organic to us. In these pages, you’ll find a return trip to one of the pioneering spas, the Golden Door, which has been offering women a place to restore themselves and eat healthily and deliciously since 1958, a tradition that continues to this day, thanks to an exceptional farm program that continues evolving. For those of you looking for cutting-edge wellness, we have a full report on forward-thinking resorts offering longevity programs, as well as heat and aqua therapies. You’ll also find the story of a yard that’s heavy on native plants and has been central to the evolution of a friendship of two like-minded, design-minded friends and artists (one a documentarian, the other a landscape designer). If you’ve been wanting to work more beans into your diet (they’re a superfood!), you’ll love the easy healthy recipes from Rancho Gordo, the Napa-based heirloom bean company prized by chefs such as Thomas Keller.
In other news, we’re thrilled to report that we’re once again partnering with Palm Springs Modernism Week, the 11-day celebration of midcentury modern design and culture. With home tours, talks, nightly parties, walking and biking tours, and more, the festival runs from February 13 to 23, and tickets are available at modernismweek.com. We hope to see you there!
—Hugh Garvey, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER
Michael A. Reinstein
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Hugh Garvey
DIGITAL DIRECTOR
Sarah Yang
DESIGN DIRECTOR
Brian Walker
PHOTO EDITOR
Christine Bobbish
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER
Thomas J. Story
TRAVEL EDITOR
Krista Simmons
SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR
Kristin Guy
HOME & DESIGN EDITOR
CONTRIBUTING
Christine Lennon
VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL INITIATIVES
Matt Gross
DIGITAL PRODUCER/NEWSLETTER EDITOR
Nicole Clausing
SENIOR DIRECTOR, PRODUCTION
Jamie Elliott
EDITORIAL INTERN
Kara Peeler
Sales & Marketing
SVP, MEDIA SOLUTIONS
Mort Greenberg VP, SALES AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
Brittany Brombach
VP, PARTNERSHIPS
Kathleen Craven
HEAD OF TRAVEL
Pamela Coffey
SVP, REVENUE OPERATIONS
Kelly Facer
DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS
Mindy Morgan
HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS
Tracy Seng
ACCOUNT MANAGER
Megan Giordano
Sunset Media International Corporation
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
Tom Griffiths
Graydon Sheinberg
A stunning salad at Murrieta Hot Springs.
PACK YOUR GRIN TAKE A SPIN SOAK IT IN
Welcome to the heart of Nevada: A place where hot spring dips and saloon sips go hand in hand. Where desert trails lead to tall tales. Where hiking boots go with swimsuits. Less scroll, more stroll, and endless space to be. Go on–get a little out there.
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BEST OF THE WEST
Desert Delights
Amangiri combines stunning architecture and cutting-edge treatments in the ultimate high desert Utah retreat, and a winter visit is the ultimate luxe health hack.
mangiri set the high bar for luxury desert wellness travel when it first opened on 900 unspoiled acres of high desert in southern Utah. Now celebrating its 15th anniversary, Amangiri continues to thrill with its signature combination of architecture that seamlessly incorporates the surrounding topography and high desert views as well as minimalist yet luxurious suites, private dining, and a spa that dissolve the boundaries between indoor and out and connect guests to the wilds just outside. Nearby Camp Sarika boasts gorgeous private pavilions that further immerse guests in the dramatic landscape. Hike the slot canyons, traverse the via ferrata, or make your way to three nearby national parks, or remain on property for winter wellness programs like yoga on the rocks, restorative treatments incorporating Utah salt and clay, and outdoor full moon mindfulness meditation. A truly next level immersive experience for travelers looking for a profound high desert reset. aman.com/resorts/amangiri
Palm Springs Perfection
Art publisher Assouline is known for its opulent coffee-table books on fashion, art, culture, and, most notably, its travel series on iconic destinations like Marrakech, Capri, Tulum, and now Palm Springs. With its own arresting, vividly hued graphic cover similar to other books in the Assouline travel series, and back-to-front full-bleed photographs of the desert city, its famous denizens, notable architecture, and the surrounding Coachella Valley and beyond, Palm Springs is an eminently browsable book worthy of any well-curated coffee table. Palm Springs; $105, assouline.com
Clockwise from top: an alternate version of Slim Aarons’ famous photograph of Richard Neutra’s Kaufmann House; Frank Sinatra at a charity golf event in 1969; Sterling Ruby’s SPECTER.
Avian Excellence
The meditative act of birdwatching reduces stress and increases cardiovascular health. Here’s how to gear up for spring.
Whether you’re a bird-watching newbie or an old pro, having the right gear on hand is going to make appreciating the rich and diverse avian world of the West an easy-toindulge, ongoing delight. And that means the more compact and portable, the better, as you’re more inclined to, say, carry a compact set of optics in your backpack or purse than a full-size pair of binoculars. Here are the essential tools (all of them compact, all of them essential) to improve your days out in nature watching the trees and skies for winged wildlife.
A MERLIN BIRD ID APP
AThis free app from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology is the go-to mobile app for a reason: Its songbird identification technology is matchless, and you can download regional databases of songs and photos specific to your region. Keep track of your avian life list wherever you are. merlin.allaboutbirds.org
B NOCS FIELD TUBE
Yes, you should have a pair of high-quality binoculars, but this compact, weatherproof monocular is small enough to keep in your glove box, everyday bag, or even in hand as you walk in your neighborhood, turning your evening stroll into an opportunity for bird-spotting. $125; nocsprovisions.com
C FREAKS OF NATURE SUNSCREEN
If you’re going to be out for hours, you’re going to need to protect your skin. Surf legend Kelly Slater’s sunscreen brand is mineral-based, reef-safe, and packaged in plastic that was otherwise oceanbound. $35; freaksofnature.com
D THE BACKYARD BIRD CHRONICLES
Amy Tan’s wonderfully personal birding memoir is richly illustrated and an instant classic in the field. $35; penguinrandomhouse.com
E HELINOX SPEED STOOL
Set up your own personal perch in the field with this super lightweight and compact stool that almost magically unfolds and snaps together in a split second. $95; helinox.com
insure your journey
PROTECTING YOUR TRAVEL TRAILER ADVENTURES
Embarking on the open road with your travel trailer is an exciting experience, lled with adventure and the promise of new discoveries. However, ensuring that your journey remains carefree involves more than just planning the perfect route and destination. It involves protecting your travel trailer with insurance customized for you. Here are a few reasons why having insurance for your travel trailer is not just a wise decision, but an essential one.
Peace of mind on the road
Traveling comes with its share of uncertainties, and having insurance for your travel trailer provides you with the peace of mind that you deserve. Whether you’re cruising down the highway or parked at a scenic campsite, knowing that your investment is protected can make your travels even more enjoyable.
Protection against the unexpected Damage to your travel trailer can happen when you least expect it. Comprehensive and collision travel trailer insurance can cover you in case of events that are out of your control, like a tree limb falling on your trailer. Optional Pest Damage ProtectionSM provides coverage for damage from pests such as rats, mice, insects, birds, or other nondomesticated animals.
Coverage for personal belongings
Your travel trailer is not just a mode of transportation; it’s your home on wheels. Optional personal effects coverage can help cover the cost of personal belongings inside the trailer, providing nancial assistance in case of theft or damage.
When auto insurance isn’t enough
Auto insurance generally provides coverage for your travel trailer only when it is connected to your vehicle and may assist in cases where your trailer causes damage to another vehicle. However, it typically does not provide standalone coverage for repairing or replacing your trailer if it sustains damage or is totaled.
You can choose travel trailer insurance options that help cover those expenses and may even offer the bene t of total loss replacement coverage.
When homeowners insurance isn’t enough
Homeowners insurance may provide some coverage for your belongings, but often has limitations when the trailer is off your property. A customized travel trailer insurance policy can ensure that your trailer and belongings are adequately covered.
Liability protection
Accidents involving your travel trailer can also lead to liability issues. Insurance can provide protection against third-party claims, covering medical expenses or property damage that may arise from an incident involving your trailer.
Insuring your travel trailer is not just a precaution; it’s a commitment to a worry-free travel experience. Safeguard your investment, enjoy the journey, and make every moment on the road a memory worth cherishing. Start your adventure with the con dence that comes from knowing your travel trailer is protected against life’s unexpected twists and turns.
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Inspo Lives Here
Discover more Idea House inspo at sunset.com/ideahub
From flooring to fences, faucets to furniture, and everything in between, the Sunset Idea House is where innovative home design ideas come to life. This year, watch the emergence of a midcentury modern masterpiece in Palm Springs, and the transformation of a beachy chic bungalow in Malibu.
In the upcoming Home & Design Issue we’ll also reveal the winners of our inaugural Western Home & Design Awards, celebrating the people and designs that define living well in the West.
HOME & GARDEN
California Classic
This house could have been built in 1954 or 2024. It channels the functional liveable minimalism of the Case Study program and is a case study in creativity and friendship.
Story by HUGH GARVEY
THOMAS J. STORY
Photographs by
Dotted throughout the innumerable nameless hills of Los Angeles,
hidden in nooks and canyons, obscured by oaks and palms, and up or down winding roads are havens you can’t see from the street. There are thousands of unseen houses of countless styles perched on the slopes and cliffs of this secret skyline. And behind each of these houses is a story. And the story behind this house is one of friendship and ideas that stand the test of time.
This page: Sliding glass doors envelop the house and dissolve the separation between the indoors and the outdoors. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Fi Campbell and Laura Gabbert. A fountain surrounded by local boulders, one of Campbell’s favorite organic design elements. An outdoor shower and a shaded lounge area just off the primary bedroom are one of several outdoor “rooms.” The pool, designed and built by Johnston Vidal Projects, is lined with Heath tile.
The house in question has been called Hidden House and Hidden Canyon by its architect and landscaper, respectively, and when you arrive, you understand why. After climbing the vertiginous switchbacks of the highest points in L.A.’s Mount Washington neighborhood, you need to navigate a narrow private road that goes from paved to dirt and is only wide enough for one car to pass, then you wind down another narrow road that hugs the curve of a steep hill, past a grove of trees and a fenced-in garden growing a wild tangle of flowers and vegetables. It’s like passing through sequential airlocks that progressively lead from the urban to the agrarian. At the end of these roads is the house, all muted stucco and redwood patinated by time. It’s low-key, receding into the hill. But the more you pay attention, it becomes clear that it’s high concept: That garden provides bouquets and vegetables for LA Homefarm, the Atwater food and housewares shop run by farm box pioneer Lauri Kranz. This home
“If you sit with something long enough, it will speak to you. You don’t have to be rigid in your plan, and you can change your mind as you go through the process.”
was an early commission of Standard Architecture, the firm responsible for the serenely minimalist, whitewashed, blonde wood, modernist Californian James Perse shops and Jenni Kayne stores (as well as the residences of the brands’ owners). The homeowner, Laura Gabbert, is a tastemaker Angeleno in her own right, having directed City of Gold , the acclaimed documentary on the late food critic Jonathan Gold. And the garden is by Fi Campbell, the former set decorator turned landscape designer and an old friend of Gabbert.
When Gabbert and her then-husband first bought the house, it was an old, unremarkable midcentury post-and-beam house. The remodel and subsequent expansion by Standard Architecture prove that the oldest ideas are the best. Above all, this house is Californian. There’s a timeless L.A.-ness to the house that draws a line from the Schindler house in the flats with its intelligent emptiness and sense of flow, through the Case Study House program’s use of readily available construction materials used honestly and
Above: native grasses and local flagstones are a low maintenance lawn alternative. Top left: massive sliding glass doors dissolve the line between indoor and out. Bottom left: An Ethiopian camp stool sits under Todd Johnson artwork. Painting on mantel by Ginger Hansen Shafter.
The low-slung, Johnston Vidal Projects-designed pool and deck offer unobstructed canyon and city views.
transparently: standard timbers, stucco, and concrete. Enormous sliding glass doors dissolve the division between indoor and outdoor. Outside, there are distinct seating areas: a dining patio off the massive kitchen. An upper patio for Gabbert’s daughter. A lounge with a firepit sits off the living room, and yet another private lounge with an outdoor shower sits just off the primary bedroom, leading to a two-person perch for looking out over the canyon in the shade. The afternoon wind shooting up through the canyon drops the temperature a full 10 degrees. And the pool, jutting up to the edge, no railing, ringed with Heath Ceramics tiles, is surrounded by an ipe wood deck that offers views of the city beyond.
After the home was remodeled by Standard, there wasn’t enough budget left to execute a grand
and somewhat overwrought proposal from a big landscape architecture firm, so Gabbert approached Campbell to design the garden stage by stage, in smaller phases, to roll out over time. Campbell and Gabbert became friends when their daughters were attending the same grade school. “Fi would spend time here with her daughters and understood how we used the spaces,” says Gabbert. The dogs and children would play in it, and Campbell and Gabbert’s hangouts would become design workshops.
And so began what’s turned into a decade-plus collaboration that shows how the best landscape designs are iterative, requiring a consciousness, attentiveness, and sensitivity to the site, the lives of the people living with the garden, and the requirements of nature. Much like the home itself,
The dining room furniture is decidedly midcentury modern to match the ethos of the architecture: Chairs by Hans Wegner; sideboard is vintage Danish. Paintings by Todd Johnson are flanked by a watercolor by Nicole Phurgrasamee Fein and a photograph by David King.
Above: Every evening, this shaded spot offers a cooling breeze from the canyon that drops the ambient temperature by a full 10 degrees. Left: A massive sliding glass door allows the kitchen and an adjacent sitting area to fully join the outdoor dining room. Chairs by Room & Board.
the garden needed to be adaptable. So, Campbell planted fast-growing sycamores to shade the dining area. She extended the hardscape of the front patio with local flagstone and boulders that take you through a yard of agaves tucked next to boulders, which each create a microclimate and focal point to hold the space while the plant grows and provide shade when it needs it. The yard needed to be sturdy enough to thrive when its owner was on the road for work. She selected a palate of native plants: billowing bunch grasses, thickets of various sages.
“If you sit with something long enough, it will speak to you,” says Campbell. “You don’t have to be
rigid in your plan, and you can change your mind as you go through the process.” So over the years, as the friendship and children and plants grew, what started as a sun garden turned into a shade garden as the native California oaks and sycamores and toyons matured. Gravel paths were added to match the flow of socializing and play. A grassy area for the kids went away as they grew out of it.
The separate bedroom wing for Gabbert’s daughter was the most significant architectural addition. Whatever happened, it had to accommodate this: kids and four dogs. Campbell is inspired by the restrictions of Hollywood production budgets: “If there’s a budget, I’ll adhere to it like a set designer … It’s in my nature to provide something for somebody … I don’t want to splash out; I’m a staunch functionalist. It’s about economic and ecological sustainability. I believe in using stone and the beauty of organic shapes. If there’s anything we can repurpose, I want it to look like it’s been there forever. I like things that fade: stone and wood.”
But what doesn’t fade is the friendship that built this garden. “As a working mom who travels a lot for work, I don’t really have much time to garden,” says Gabbert. “I love the plants and do the weeding, but part of our friendship is walking through the garden and deferring to Fi. I trust her vision.” Campbell, for her part, considers it an honor to check in on the plantings every six months and write suggestions of what to do with the plantings. And every fall, she sows wildflower seeds to return in spring and watch them bloom with her friend.
Opposite page: Rosemary lines an elegantly arcing gravel and landscaping timber outdoor staircase that leads to a private deck for kids to hang out at, away from the grownups. Above: A Norman Cherner side chair graces a desk in the guest room.
New Beginnings
When you leave a home after 30 years to start again with a new design vernacular, it’s not downsizing—it’s uplifting. Just ask veteran decorators to the stars Hilde and Reza Leiaghat.
Story by CHRISTINE LENNON
P hotographs by THOMAS J. STORY
Reza and Hilde on the deck of their new Pasadena home. Outdoor furniture by Design Within Reach.
Beginnings
A fresh start. A new chapter. A clean slate.
There are so many ways to describe the process of beginning anew in a smaller, more manageable home that are more optimistic than the most common term: downsizing, a word that is spoken with two sad, flat notes from a tuba implied. But trading in a high-maintenance, traditional house for a snug and streamlined midcentury in Pasadena was anything but a bummer for Hilde and Reza Leiaghat. It just took a minute for Hilde to see it that way.
“It was my idea to sell our family house in Los Feliz, which we had curated over 30 years,” says Hilde, who, along with Reza, founded the home textile brand Pom Pom at Home. The couple, who have two grown sons and are now grandparents, spent their
adult lives furnishing and refining the house as they built and refined their brand. Back when they owned four Pom Pom stores across Los Angeles, they would swap out and sell their collected antiques and linens regularly. About 15 years ago, they shuttered the stores to focus exclusively on manufacturing home textiles. By 2021, they decided they’d put enough love and attention into that rambling old house and it was time to sell. Then, things moved quickly.
“We were lucky that our house never went on
the market,” Hilde recalls. “Someone was interested in buying it right away, under the condition that they could buy it as-is, with everything in it. We didn’t bring a single truckload with us.”
“When we saw this house, we realized that nothing that we had would work anyway,” says Reza, who admits the house felt a little sterile, and the televisions in every room were a turn-off. “We were drawn to the view and the potential for the backyard to build a pool and a patio for entertaining. But Hilde cried for a month.”
A Timothy Oulton sofa with an arced wooden floor lamp from the Pasadena Antique Center. The Moooi pendant lamp over the dining table was found at a local prop house. The pink painting (artist unknown) found at the Rose Bowl Flea Market is Hilde’s favorite found treasure.
“I did,” Hilde says, nodding in recognition of those dark early days. “I thought we made a big mistake.”
Faced with a blank canvas and limited time to fill it, the Leiaghats did what they do best.
“We went shopping,” Reza says. “Now, whatever you see here in the house, except for one painting, is new to us.”
The Leiaghats entered the nascent L.A. design scene in 1991, when the city had a trace of the anything-goes energy that today’s creative entrepreneurs can only dream of. After running two successful restaurants, one in a 16th-century building in Antwerp, Belgium and another in late-1980s L.A., they stumbled upon a storefront for rent in Hollywood and took the leap into the world of interiors.
“Reza called and said, ‘I saw a place for lease on Santa Monica Boulevard, maybe this is what we should do?’” Hilde recalls. “I asked him, ‘Where are we going to get the stuff to sell?’ Reza said maybe we start with everything that’s in our apartment. That’s literally what we did. We moved everything
out of our home and put it in the shop.”
Along with some vintage textiles and antiques they brought from Hilde’s native Belgium, they sold furniture and accessories they had scavenged at the Rose Bowl Flea Market, which was still a relatively untapped resource. Next to the shop was an acting studio, and when Hilde saw the performers come and go in the uniform of the day—white T-shirts, Levi’s, and Converse—genius struck.
“In the back of the store, we built a big shelf. Then I went to the Rose Bowl and bought a stack of used Levi’s. I went downtown and got a bunch of white T-shirts. And then at the shoe factory, I bought Converse in red, white, and blue,” she says. “We opened the store, and within two weeks, we had the L.A. Times in, just by luck. They were so taken by the concept of the store, with furniture, an armoire full of Belgian and French textiles, and secondhand jeans. The following week, it was in the L.A. Times weekend magazine, and they gave us a double spread. Whatever we did after that, people came to see.”
A few coats of Arrowhead by Dunn-Edwards instantly transformed the brick fireplace.
Pom Pom at Home linens are found in both serene bedrooms.
A framed textile from Zoe Bios Creative.
“E very time we move and change styles, we just say goodbye. It can be fun to start from scratch.”
Hilde rewarded her patient neighbors with “free sheets” after they endured their multi-year backyard construction project with X10 Group Los Angeles and Island Pools. A vintage biergarten table is surrounded by French cafe chairs. Outdoor seating and umbrellas by Frontgate.
Their single shop grew into a mini-chain of four stores. Jennifer Lopez was an early and loyal client, and Hilde helped decorate one of her homes. Reza would go on buying trips to Europe, and they hired pickers and shoppers there, too. They’d fill containers to send to L.A., and they became known for their great taste in chandeliers and home linens.
“That’s what led to us starting the line. We were selling pieces that were one of a kind, and then people would freak out when they would sell out,”
Hilde says, recognizing the market for heirloomquality linens. The Pom Pom brand is now sold in 2,000 retail outlets.
Reza and Hilde met as teenagers during a summer program in England, and they developed a symbiotic relationship that happens over decades of living and working together. Hilde is drawn to classics, while Reza’s tastes lean more modern. And their new home is a cohesive reflection of how their visions combine into something unique and inviting.
The only change to the home’s interior was these wooden bookshelves. Chair, vintage Ingmar Relling. The exterior view shows the balance of classic (topiary-like shrubs) and modern (the unified palette). Hilde and Reza find beauty in found objects, from nature or vintage markets.
Starting with a restricted palette of creamy neutrals, they scoured the Pasadena Antique Center and HD Buttercup, the site of their only Pom Pom store-in-store, for the right mix of warm and simple furnishings. Tables and chairs from Ethnicraft, a Belgian furniture company, and a Timothy Oulton sectional anchor the main living room.
“It’s so nice to play with the modular sofa, and we bought an extra slipcover. It was just so convenient,” Hilde says.
All of the small accessories, baskets, and objects that line the shelves and countertops were picked up at flea markets and antique stores.
“We like to bargain, so we don’t shop online,” says Reza. “We want a deal, and we both just grew up looking for antiques.”
Reza designed the landscaping and oversaw the construction of the pool and deck, which was just completed at the end of 2023.
“There’s nothing I do without Hilde. I present an idea, and usually she agrees with it. That’s how it works. We work together on basically everything.”
While their older son, Sam, is the official Pom Pom CEO, Reza and Hilde are still very hands-on in day-to-day operations. Hilde travels a lot looking for inspiration, and she visits factories in Portugal, India, and China to translate her design ideals into products that can be made at the scale they need. That the pieces they produce are very versatile and compatible with many different design styles is no accident.
“My problem is that I like everything,” Hilde says. “Even with music, I can listen to rap, hard rock, or classical. I appreciate it all. It’s the same with design. I like classic, romantic, or contemporary. Sometimes it’s a problem, and sometimes it’s a blessing.”
The secret to their longevity, both at work and at home, may lie in this kind of flexible thinking, and the confidence they have in each other, and their ability to change along with the time, not against it.
“Every time we move and change styles, we just say goodbye,” says Reza. “It can be fun to start from scratch.”
The Leiaghats sold their Los Feliz home furnished and took only a handful of items. The house looks like it’s been curated over time, not furnished instantly, because of their eye for finding vintage paintings, objects from many different eras, and their confidence in blending times and styles. All linens, Pom Pom at Home.
BEHIND THE GOLDEN DOOR
Tucked away in the foothills north of San Diego, one of the country’s premier spas is cultivating a healthy food-focused wellness program and a kitchen garden that showcases the very best in Californian produce. Now, its lucky neighbors get to share the bounty.
Story by CHRISTINE LENNON P hotographs by THOMAS J. STORY
GOLDEN
The Golden Door spa in San Marcos, California, has been an exclusive, and legendary, destination for well-heeled wellness seekers for over six decades. The intimate, women-only environment (save for limited men’s and co-ed weeks a year) has remained largely unchanged since the 1970s, and the architecture and gardens, inspired by traditional Japanese design, have been lovingly preserved. Guided, challenging hikes through the rolling hills across 30 miles of trails at 6:00 a.m. are a big draw. The entrance is marked by a discreet sign off of a country road north of San Diego, and they do not advertise. It’s a very specific place that relies on word of mouth among women who crave peace of mind more than trendy workouts. And those who have been immersed in its magic often become lifelong devotees.
“Where else can you go where you would be able to turn off and just pause safely and find this whole camaraderie among the guests, the natural beauty of the land, and a whole staff caring for you?” says Kathy Van Ness, the general manager. “Every Sunday when someone arrives, they are immediately a part of a community. You start off with a familial feeling that you trust these people and that this is going to be an amazing week.”
The people who come through The Door crave a full mind and body reset and some spiritual grounding. The exercise options are delightfully old-school: yoga, weight training, cardio classes in and out of the pool, Pilates, spinning, and the like for several hours throughout the day. There is no biohacking happening here, just tried-and-true movement and access to nurturing, beautifully prepared food designed to showcase seasonal eating and curb unhealthy cravings.
“Here, we learn to appreciate everything we put into our mouths,” says Van Ness. “Let’s be realistic. You’re going to eat dessert when you leave us and go home, but we hope the lasting lesson is that portion size matters and what comes out of your body in energy needs to be replaced.”
The spa did away with the practice of taking guests’ measurements at the beginning and end of each stay several years ago, when they had the good sense to realize that any
Clockwise from top left: Guests return year after year to savor the Zen experience at the mainly women-only spa. Chef Greg Frey Jr.’s prized hens in the garden coop. The farm team at “The Door” includes Jose Luis (far left), who has worked on-site for 40 years. Healthy koi fill the on-property ponds. The spa’s famous potassium broth, served during morning breaks, is made from some of the dozens of tomato varieties grown on-site and is for sale at the stand. Frey and his team take on rescued hives from local properties.
weight loss a person can experience in seven days is impermanent and not the sole factor in a successful spa week. Yes, it feels good to drop an inch or two of bloat, but the more meaningful and lasting takeaway is a deep understanding of what healthy eating is. That’s where the spa’s chef, Greg Frey Jr., who has been the Door’s culinary star since he took over the kitchen in 2014, really shines. No one counts the guests' almonds there. But they do fill their plates with lean, organic protein, and a bounty of lettuces, herbs, and vegetables grown just steps from the kitchen.
“I like to say the Golden Door and I found each other because of a nice river of energy that connected us,” says Frey. “I wasn’t looking for a place like this. I didn’t know it existed.”
Frey brought the focus of the spa back to fine dining, where guests indulge in fresh-squeezed orange juice and omelets for breakfast, Asian noodle bowls for lunch, and duck breast or miso-braised cod for dinner.
“You don’t want to have to say no to yourself all day. And what we do goes against the old conventional thought about eating only vegetables and steamed chicken at a spa,” he says. “We want guests to focus on increasing their bone density and muscle mass, and to change their thinking about food. Balance is important. Stressing about your food is unhealthy. The best diet in the world means nothing if you’re just going to sit all day. Once you get into that mindset, it’s much simpler than you think.”
Above: The property’s formal Japanese gardens haven’t changed since the ‘70s. Right: Chef Frey has become the standard bearer for elevated spa cuisine.
Frey has become a healthy eating champion with a national profile, appearing on talk shows and sharing recipes. Still, among the locals and neighboring communities, what he and the Golden Door team were doing on the 600-acre property remained a bit of a mystery.
“In the community, we’re seen as kind of like the Wonka
Top left: The peaceful yoga studio has a treehouse feel, thanks to abundant surrounding greenery. Bottom left: Chef Frey and the dining staff set the table for a farm lunch for guests. Right: Mature bamboo keeps the property cool and shaded during hot inland summers, and it acts as a battery-free white noise machine.
“ I wasn’t looking for a place like this. I didn’t know it existed.”
Left: The farmstand was designed to share the Golden Door bounty with the local community, and it has become a favorite gathering place for neighbors.
Top right: The traditional Japanese gardens offer a tranquil escape for meditation and contemplation. Bottom right: Citrus and cherry tomatoes grow in abundance here. Bottom left: A stateof-the-art Pilates studio is among the latest fitness upgrades at The Door.
chocolate factory,” says Frey. “Unless you worked here at one point, you don’t really know what’s going on.”
The North County residents got a welcome glimpse behind the door when they opened the Golden Door Country Store, about a mile down the road, to showcase the produce coming out of the world-class gardens, avocado grove, and fruit orchards that the spa’s team has been cultivating for years. Frey is an enthusiastic gardener and experienced beekeeper who started managing the gardens in 2019. Under his leadership, throughout the epic 10-month growing season, the garden produces over 50 varieties of tomatoes, thousands of pounds of avocados and citrus, many salad greens and lettuces, peppers, melons, root vegetables,
and herbs like mint, savory, basil, parsley, and zaatar.
“This year, oh my goodness, the melons are just amazing, thanks to a mild summer. And I’m on pace to can almost 1,200 pounds of tomatoes,” he says, with obvious glee.
“We planted 3,000 square feet of just rosemary, which we use for herbal wraps in the spa. I will use a blanket of it to roast a lamb rack or Chateaubriand. Diversity of herbs is a big focus of mine in the garden, and it’s especially useful in healthy cooking to build flavor when you don’t get to use a glob of butter and extra salt.”
Frey had been eager to share the bounty of produce with the local community for years, but it took a pandemic to propel it into reality.
“The store was a long-term dream for many of us over the last 10 years. We wanted to show more visual support and make us feel more a part of our surrounding community,” says Frey. “We first started with a foldout table, and we’d randomly be out there in a parking lot because we had extra tomatoes and cucumbers. Then we had to maintain the gardens through COVID, and it kind of became a necessity.”
The spa closed to visitors, but the plants, well, they continued to grow. Frey was able to keep a skeleton crew working in the garden to save it all from ruin.
“In March of 2020, we had one of the better harvests we’d ever had, and we were working around the clock to keep it alive,” he says. “If there was ever a time to open up that country store, that was it. We were calling local food banks, but they were inundated. So, we set up a stand and had the community come out in droves to get eggs, beets, and fresh corn. We could only have 15 cars in the lot, and there were days when I had to get out there and work traffic control.”
Top left: Wildlife is abundant at the peaceful retreat.
Bottom left: The energizing potassium broth ritual has become a spa signature dish, and Chef Frey has grown to love it.
Right: The spa architecture is modeled after the ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn.
Though the spa is still available to a couple of dozen extremely lucky guests, and The Door remains closed to outside visitors, the Country Store has become a favorite spot for foodies. Some customers drive from Orange County to pick up a bag of Chef Frey’s famous granola, a bag of juicy oranges, jars of sauce, a loaf of bread from favorite local bakeries, and a little slice of that Golden Door magic to serve at their own tables at home.
“What I want to be a proponent for is people adding more vegan and vegetarian meals to their diet, to spend a little more on their food, especially the protein, and eat a little less,” says Frey. “If the source of the protein isn’t good and it isn’t raised well, you can taste it, and you will pay the price later on. Go ahead and get that rib-eye that you want to have, but share it with friends. Have a nice side of beans on the side to get your protein. Eat a variety of vegetables. Eat to give yourself energy. Then when you leave the table, you’re going to want to get up from your seat and actually do something.”
GARDEN CHECKLIST YOUR WINTER
Savvy gardeners know winter is a slower, less showy, but critical season for setting up your landscape for success in spring.
Story by KRISTIN GUY
PLANT
Now is an ideal time to add succulents, such as agave, yucca, and aloe to your landscape. Try also adding prickly pear cactus (Opuntia spp.) into the mix as an unexpected culinary addition, whose pads (nopales) and fruit (tunas) are both edible.
Consider planting lovage in your herb garden, a hardy perennial that can be used as a celery substitute and adds architectural interest when interplanted in raised beds. Flower stalks can reach up to 6 feet in height. Consider placement in the back of beds or in areas you might want additional shade for future tender transplants.
Take advantage of cool weather and lingering precipitation to transplant more natives,
such as ceanothus (California lilac), manzanita (Arctostaphylos spp.), and red-flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum) alongside your garden. These early-blooming shrubs will attract much-needed pollinators and native birds.
HARVEST
It’s peak season for Meyer lemons, oranges, and grapefruit. Dehydrate leftover peels to make dried zest for tea blends or flavored salts, or make an infused oil by placing peels in a jar, covering with a neutral oil (such as olive or avocado), then covering with a lid and placing in a cool, dark place for a week before straining.
When harvesting alliums, like onions, shallots, and leeks, leave a few behind in your beds to flower for exceptional firework blooms come
summertime that will not only add a pop of personality to your garden but also repel a wide range of unwanted insects, including aphids, slugs, cabbage worms, mosquitoes, grubs, and nematodes
MAINTAIN
Spend quality time with houseplants before outdoor growing has you distracted. Cut back on that and turn your attention to your outdoor pots. Clean up any tired or yellow growth to promote a fresh flush and check the bottom of pots for escaping roots. Uppot any containers that seem rootbound and offer a spa treatment of organic liquid fertilizer and beneficial microbial organisms to revitalize soil, such as Good Dirt PlantBiotics®.
Look for broken or dead branches and
Entry containers or stairway slopes filled with drought-tolerant plants create textural drama by layering silvery-green succulents with contrasting leaf shapes, while varying container heights add layers of visual intrigue and define space.
stems to trim on outdoor trees and shrubs. Pruning when plants are still dormant reduces the loss of sap from the wounds, allowing cuts to heal more quickly while preventing diseases. Be sure to complete before the spring nesting season so as to not disturb nature’s flow.
Turn weeding into a zen flow-state meditation by tackling the task after a rain event. Soft soil makes pulling out plants’ roots easier, while mindfulness paired with repetitive movements can turn a chore into calming and cathartic self-care.
PROTECT
In coastal and desert regions, consider setting up temporary windbreaks to shield young plants from strong, drying winds. Temporary wind barriers can be
made of burlap or other breathable material and fastened to bamboo poles or garden hoops.
Installing a bat house in your garden can provide a roosting place for these beneficial nocturnal helpers who will typically consume 6,000 to 8,000 insects per night, including menacing mosquitos. Place bat houses at least 12 to 15 feet off the ground and in a spot that gets direct sunlight for part of the day.
It’s go-time for slugs and snails on the hunt for young sprouting plants. For nontoxic protection, use copper barriers around tender plants, or experiment with scattering crushed eggshells around plants to deter intruders while providing a slow-release source of calcium for the soil.
Positively Permaculture
A new form of wellness involving community, creativity, and a commitment to growth in both people and plants has sprouted in Malibu, California.
Landscape design studio
Viola Gardens is known for its regenerative, whole-system solutions and artistic landscapes. This philosophy is expressed at its new Malibu wellness wonderland called The Art & Ecology Studio. Owner Jessica Viola has created something truly unexpected when it comes to the
world of horticulture. Part materials showroom, part plant explorative nursery, the space is also operating as a community-focused compound within the experimental artist colony Surf Canyon. With a goal of fostering a deeper awareness of the ecological function and vital roles that plants and species play
within our natural habitats, Jessica has created this studio space to help people recognize their interconnectedness with nature. In addition to being an award-winning landscape designer, she taps into the local community through purpose-driven events and regenerative design services to nurture a sense of stewardship—hoping that others will learn to care for the land and each other along the way. Here, she shares Viola Gardens’ signature style, the vision for The Art & Ecology Studio, and how you can practice permaculture in your own restorative refuge.
Jessica Viola designs landscapes that invite connection, thoughtfully mapping out quiet spaces where people can build a deeper relationship with nature and the surrounding habitat.
ECOLOGICAL ESCAPE
The space hosts monthly openair gatherings celebrating nature’s bounty through permaculture talks, biodynamic wine tastings, live music, and comedy, in addition to being a creative playspace and a wellspring for exploring fresh ideas as they relate to landscape design and ecological restoration. The showroom itself serves as a living example of how
innovative and creative solutions can merge indoor and outdoor spaces, with nearly every material repurposed and recycled. The layout consists of three shipping containers, outfitted with carefully placed rolling doors and skylights. Artistic touches are dotted throughout, with pavers hand-poured with custom paint tints, a stately stained-glass window, and a shou-sugi ban pergola, exemplifying innovative design and permaculture practices.
The front container houses the ‘library,’ inviting guests into the space through a cozy room filled with garden design literature, as well as a piano and a little desk for writing. The second container is a plant-filled workspace for Jessica and her team, while the back container houses building samples, where clients come to review different wood, tiles, and pebbles alongside plants. This makes for a completely unique landscape planning experience, where inspired designs take on an interactive and collaborative process in the form of color, shape, and texture.
CULTIVATING COMMUNITY
A big believer in the “theaterin-the-round concept,” Jessica designed the studio space like a courtyard with a central stage, allowing people to sit and engage from all angles without the formality of a traditional stage setup. She admits there is something powerful about circles—sitting in a nonlinear arrangement fosters a sense of connection and belonging, rather than a feeling of presentation or hierarchy. In addition to intentional layout, incorporating creative plant combinations and integrating nature into the design helps people feel like they’re gathering in nature, not just near it— ultimately bringing openness and joy to the space, encouraging natural conversation. In permaculture design, Jessica emphasizes the im-
portance of creating systems that serve multiple functions. For example, a bocce ball court doubles as a driveway when access is needed for material deliveries. She is an advocate of “permaculture not being something we ‘do’ but rather a lens through which we make design choices based on natural patterns and relationships.” With any landscape design project, she urges one to go in with a mindset of cultivating
relationships between plants, animals, and people, which helps establish a meaningful connection with the garden, creating a sense of affection, belonging, and place.
HARMONY IN HORTICULTURE
When it comes to self-care through garden design and plant selection, Jessica’s approach is deeply personal and client-centered. She dedicates time to discovering the plants
Hardscaping is thoughtfully designed to guide movement or create restful pauses, seamlessly softened by plants and the surrounding landscape to craft a restorative retreat.
“Working with hands in the soil, with my head below my heart, has been a powerful reminder of humility and generosity.”
landscape while reflecting the individual’s personal desires.
healing potential and abundance of space, depending on the kind of healing one seeks, a sanctuary can be achieved in a cut flower garden, an edible herb garden, a zen retreat, or a meadow for artistic inspiration. By introducing yourself to a variety of plant options, you can ensure a garden will not only fulfill its purpose but become a deeply embodied, restorative experience that blends elements to evoke a sense of calm, wonder, and connection, with nature and within ourselves.
RESTORATIVE RETREATS
looking to create a zen garden, meditation space, walking labyrinth, bird sanctuary, or food forest, the key is to layer in elements—like plants, materials, and structures—one by one, much like a painting.
SUSTAINABILITY AS SELF-CARE
that resonate with each person, considering factors like color, blossom, scent, edibility, function, and architectural beauty. She confesses it’s about listening to both what’s said and unsaid, curating a plant list that mirrors the
The garden’s restorative qualities are often defined by the senses, and Jessica always encourages clients to engage with their gardens through touching, smelling, and interacting with the plants. When it comes to healing through horticulture, the more functions a plant can serve—whether for shade, beauty, ecological support, food, or medicine—the more beneficial it becomes. Curating plants in relation to each other enhances the
There are a few key considerations Jessica always makes when designing a space to take care of both the client and the natural habitat. Balancing human needs and the needs of nature is a crucial starting point, working with clients to identify meaningful destinations within the landscape—whether it’s a seating area, a garden, or a wildlife sanctuary—and then mapping out access paths and connections between these key areas. By prioritizing the use of 60% native plants, which not only support the local ecosystem but also help create a sense of place and connection to the land, Jessica carefully weaves them into the design, creating a harmonious balance between form and function.
Balance can also be achieved with focal points that invite mindfulness—whether that’s through a carefully placed boulder, a water feature, or an architectural plant specimen. Whether you’re
In permaculture, the Viola Gardens team uses the concept of zones to prioritize function and proximity, putting things we frequently interact with, like herbs, close to the kitchen, while placing less demanding elements, like fruit trees, farther away. To apply this principle in your own life, Jessica suggests thinking of “zone zero” as yourself—your body, mind, and spirit—and recognizing that cultivating balance within yourself allows for greater compassion and empowerment, which ripples outward into the world.
Designing and working in gardens for over 18 years has revealed many self-care practices for Jessica, one of the most valuable being learning how to truly observe and pay attention to the nuances of gardening. Acts of pruning, weeding, and nurturing root growth allow nature to take the lead. This practice of working with, rather than against, the natural system has deepened her understanding of our place within it, revealing the importance of patience, balance, and respect. She shares that “working with hands in the soil, with my head below my heart, has been a powerful reminder of humility and generosity. It’s taught me the importance of listening—both to the land and to others.” Just as diverse landscapes can create meaningful, functional ecosystems, Jessica has come to realize that healing and connection are always possible, even amidst differences, and this philosophy is not only apparent in the landscapes but in the creative community she continues to nurture and build.
The Art & Ecology Studio breaks the norms of a traditional plant nursery or material showroom, inviting you to walk through and experience building materials and plants through community events and conversation.
Pansies That Pack a Punch
Flower grower and author Brenna Estrada shares five petal pairings to kickstart spring planting.
Afloral favorite to start growing while the weather is still cool, author Brenna Estrada explores the world of petite petals in her new book Pansies: How to Grow, Reimagine, and Create Beauty with Pansies and Violas, offering growing tips and unusual variety recommendations, along with unique applications for crafts, recipes, and even apothecary.
Often overlooked and used solely as a border groundcover or container accent, Brenna proves that pansies can be a powerful pop when used in cut flower bouquets. Just in time for seed sowing, she’s curated five petal-perfect pansy pairings, each guaranteed to inspire a spring refresh out in your garden and inside your home.
Hazy Hues
Flower Varieties:
Pansy ‘Flamenco Soft Light Azure Limonette’ & Pansy
‘Magnum Lilac Shades’ Why It Works: Purple was my favorite color as a child. These two varieties are some of the softest and most romantic shades of purple I have seen
size and shares many of the same shades of purple. They are really beautiful together.
Pressing Party
Flower Varieties:
Pansy ‘Rococo’ & Pansy ‘Frizzle Sizzle Lemonberry’
Why It Works: If you like contrasting colors and stark patterns, these two varieties are easy showstoppers. ‘Rococo’ blooms in shades of gold, crimson, burgundy, and eggplant with white flushes and beautifully patterned blotches. ‘Frizzle Sizzle Lemonberry’ matches the gold and purple in color and shares a similar pattern. Both of these varieties are really wonderful for pressed flower work.
Trending Tones
Flower Varieties:
Pansy ‘Imperial Antique Shades’ & Pansy ‘Nature Antique Shades’
Why It Works: Warm blush, smoky peach, and honey gold—three colors that are highly desired by both growers and floral designers right now. These two varieties come in all three of those shades and several shades in between. They have great stems for cutting and are a top pick for filling vases. These are also my top picks for decorating cakes; they look really lovely with a bare cake, cream frosting, or a white chocolate drizzle.
Culinary Companions
Flower Varieties:
Viola ‘Arkwright Ruby’ & Viola ‘Tiger Eye’
How
cut flower use, as it grows such easy, long stems. I think it is really lovely when paired with Viola ‘Tiger Eye,’ as both flowers share the same palette. ‘Tiger Eye’ comes in pale gold, deep cinnamon red, and a mix of both. It has marvelous veining across the entire flower—it is very unique and quite a marvel among flowers. These two are a favorite of mine in the kitchen, particularly for sprinkling on pastas and soups.
Painter’s Palette
Flower Varieties:
in a flower. ‘Flamenco Soft Light Azure Limonette’ is a ruffled Italian variety that brings in the palest of lilac, alabaster, and oyster tones while sending out some blooms in deeper violets and orchid pinks. All blooms have a drop of lemon yellow at the eye. ‘Magnum Lilac Shades’ is larger in bloom
Why It Works: Although red is my favorite color in general, it is not my favorite for flowers. In fact, I prefer to only grow a few pansies in shades of red. But the shade of red that is ‘Arkwright Ruby’ is exceptionally lovely. It varies from ruby to garnet to deep burgundy and has a modest dark blotch with a glowing spot of gold. It also is possibly the best viola for
Viola ‘Brush Strokes’ & Viola ‘Gem Apricot Antique’ Why It Works: ‘Brush Strokes’ truly looks as though every flower was meticulously painted with a tiny paintbrush. Multiple colors and patterns grace each and every flower, with no two being exactly alike. The palette is vast, from terracotta to mahogany, apricot to tangerine, and antique gold to bronze. Cream, rose pink, and plum also appear throughout the blooms. If you love to sketch and paint flowers, this one is definitely worth focusing your attention on. ‘Gem Apricot Antique’ is of a similar size, and the colors are complimentary. ‘Gem Apricot Antique' fades with breathtaking tones of sepia and lunar blue, making it especially lovely to paint in its final days.
Pansies:
to Grow, Reimagine, and Create Beauty with Pansies and Violas by Brenna Estrada; Timber Press; $30.
Brenna Estrada
DRINK the ISSUE
The Sunset Wine Club features the best bottles in the West, perfectly paired with recipes in the magazine.
There’s no easier way to drink well than the Sunset Wine Club, a selection of story-worthy wines produced by the top vintners in California, Oregon, Washington, and beyond—delivered straight to your door. We’ve partnered with the country’s premier online wine retailer, Wine Access, to curate a standout mix of reds, whites, bubblies, and rosés. Think of each delivery as a box of aperitifs, party-ready bottles, and weeknight dinner solutions. Even better, they’ve been selected to go with the recipes and menus in the issue you’re holding in your hands. As a member of the Sunset Wine Club, you will receive the following exclusive benefits:
WINES INOURNEXT SHIPMENT!
2022 Lange Winery
Pinot Noir Members
Only Dundee Hills
PAIRS WITH: Bison with hazelnut spätzle (page 65). Certified Sustainable, this Pinot Noir is a charmer from Oregon. Made in concert with the environment, it matches beautifully with local salmon, roasted Sonoma duck, or lean red meat like bison.
2019 Flying Goat Cellars Ynot Chardonnay Santa Barbara County
PAIRS WITH: Claybaked Pacific cod gratin (page 57). Celebrating organic and biodynamic farming, this creamy Chardonnay plays with the richness of the cod without competing with the delicate fish flavor. The touch of citrus on the wine’s finish adds an extra dimension to the dish.
2020 Andis ENOR Syrah Grenache Mourvedre Sierra Foothills
PAIRS WITH: Grizzly gouda and potato pierogies with cabbage and onion cream (page 62). This winery focuses on sustainability and respect for the environment while never compromising quality. The spiced Syrah blend complements gouda’s complexity with its notes of pepper and smoke.
Six Story-Worthy Wines, Shipped Every Three Months
Each bottle is thoughtfully crafted by a group of diverse, environmentally responsible winemakers.
Sunset Recipes, Profound Pairings
Every bottle comes with exclusive tasting notes and suggested pairings for Sunset recipes, hand-picked by sommeliers.
Subscribe to the Sunset Wine Club and you’re not just getting wine shipments. You’re getting a taste of the magazine’s featured selections and the captivating story behind each bottle. It’s an invitation to sit and sip at the Sunset table. $120 per shipment.
2023 No Love Lost Wine Co. Counoise Lodi
PAIRS WITH: Polenta with borlotti beans and tomato sauce (page 54). From a wineryfocused on sustainability, this low alcohol wine bursts with tart red fruit and herbal notes. The savory wine accents the tomato and there is a hint of bacon that brings the pancetta out in the dish.
2023 Vinos Finos de California Sabroso Central Coast
PAIRS WITH: Bison with hazelnut spätzle (page 65). Organically farmed wine with flavors of perfectly ripened strawberries, plum, and cracked pink peppercorns. An ideal complement to the lean meat, adding spice and complexity, all while playing off the sweet smokiness of the carrots.
2022 Oomrang Estate Siegerrebe Puget Sound Washington
PAIRS WITH: Escarole soup with giant white beans and country ham (page 57). Made with sustainable farming practices, this zippy white wine with crisp fruit flavors perfectly contrasts the bitter escarole and salty ham.
First Shot at Rare Gems and Icons You’ll be first in line to claim the newest, highly allocated wines. These are bottles Sunset editors stand behind and serve in their own homes.
FOOD & DRINK
A Simmering
Superfood
Recipes from pioneering Rancho Gordo’s new cookbook prove that heirloom beans are one of the West’s healthiest and most delicious culinary treasures.
Two decades ago,
Steve Sando started a little Napa-based bean company called Rancho Gordo that sold a few varieties of rare heirloom beans that had fallen out of favor. These were tender, from small farmers, and fresh—the opposite of the desiccated commodity beans or canned beans that make up most of the legume market even today. Chefs and home cooks took notice, and in a few years, Rancho Gordo became the go-to provider of beans to everyone from Thomas Keller to Alice Waters and, yes, the Sunset test kitchen. (We’ve also included Rancho Gordo beans in our subscription box.) Today, Rancho Gordo sells over two dozen varieties of beans grown in New Mexico, California, Oregon, Washington, Mexico, and beyond in a gorgeous array of dusty tans, speckled purples, reds, blues, blacks, and deep browns. You can literally feel how fresh these beans are. When you squeeze them with your fingers, they are soft to the touch. When you soak them in water, they begin to plump in mere minutes, not hours. And they cook much more quickly than the beans you get at the market, as they’re often just weeks or months past harvest rather than years. From bean to bean, there’s a tender creaminess and complexity of flavor that elevates any dish you use them in. Not only are these humble gems delectable, they’re exceptionally good for you, too. Beans contain high amounts of soluble fiber, which is instrumental in lowering cholesterol, regulating blood sugar, and helping establish a balanced microbiome. Steve Sando has added to the legacy of Rancho Gordo with his latest cookbook, The Bean Book: 100 Recipes for Cooking with All Kinds of Beans, from the Rancho Gordo Kitchen, which is a masterclass on the topic and a foundational text for building a healthy diet. From a rich Italianate Borlotti bean entrée to a cod dish fit for a party, these recipes will have you feasting healthily and deliciously all season long.
POLENTA WITH BORLOTTI BEANS AND TOMATO SAUCE
There are many variations of Borlotti beans, but one of the most treasured is the variety from Lamon in the Veneto, about an hour north of Venice. They are the perfect match for a bed of soft polenta. You can easily substitute any cranberry-type bean. Be sure to cook the beans according to package directions before starting the recipe.
SERVES 6
¼ cup olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups canned chopped tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, juice reserved
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 cup chicken or vegetable broth
4 fresh sage leaves, minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 cups cooked and drained Rancho Gordo Borlotti Lamon or Cranberry beans
2 cups uncooked polenta
6 oz. pancetta, diced (optional) Fresh basil or parsley, chopped, for garnish
Grated parmesan cheese, for serving
1. In a large pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until the onion begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and red wine vinegar. In a small bowl, dissolve the tomato paste in the broth and add to the pan. Stir in the sage and season with salt and pepper. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the beans to the tomato sauce. Cook, stirring frequently, until heated through, about 15 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, cook polenta according to package directions.
3. If using pancetta: Place the pancetta in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the pancetta is brown and crisp, about 15 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pancetta to a paper towel to drain.
4. To serve, spoon the polenta into serving dishes. Ladle the beans over the polenta and top with the pancetta (if using). Garnish with fresh basil or parsley and serve with grated parmesan.
The Bean Book: 100 Recipes for Cooking with All Kinds of Beans, from the Rancho Gordo Kitchen by Steve Sando with Julia Newberry ($35; Ten Speed Press).
ESCAROLE SOUP WITH GIANT WHITE BEANS AND COUNTRY HAM
Escarole, or broad-leaved endive, is another bitter vegetable that is often used raw. In this soup, you’ll wilt the escarole just a little so it retains some of its body and releases more flavor. To make this dish vegetarian, omit the ham. Be sure to precook the beans according to package directions before starting the recipe.
SERVES 4
3 Tbsp. olive oil or butter, plus more if needed
8 oz. country ham, cubed
1 large leek, trimmed, rinsed, and chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 Tbsp. minced fresh thyme
4 to 5 cups bean broth, chicken broth, or vegetable broth, or a combination
1 head escarole, cored, leaves torn into pieces
2 cups cooked, drained large white beans, such as Rancho Gordo Royal Corona or Large White Lima beans, bean broth reserved
1 tsp. red wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Freshly grated parmesan cheese, for serving
1. In a soup pot over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the ham and sauté until browned around the edges, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the ham from the pot and set aside.
2. Add the leek and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes, adding more olive oil if needed. Stir in the garlic and thyme.
3. Add the broth, increase the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil. Add the escarole and cook, stirring, just until wilted, about 3 minutes. Add the beans and reserved ham, decrease the heat to medium-low, and simmer gently to heat the beans and ham. Taste the soup and add the red wine vinegar and the salt and pepper, to taste. Serve topped with parmesan cheese.
CLAY-BAKED PACIFIC COD GRATIN WITH ONIONS AND WHITE BEANS
Clay is perfect for a baked fish and bean recipe, but any gratin dish will do. Cod seems a little more forgiving than most fish, but check for doneness regularly. Fish can be overcooked on a dime, and there are variations in the size of the fish, gratin dishes, and ovens that can affect the ultimate cooking time. But with a little bit of attention to timing, this dish can warm up any fall or winter gathering. Pre-cook the beans according to package directions before starting the recipe.
SERVES 4
1 large white onion, thinly sliced
2 cups cooked, drained white beans, such as Rancho Gordo Marcella or Alubia Blanca beans
6 sprigs thyme
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1½ pounds boneless, skinless Pacific cod (3 to 4 fillets)
Chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley or dill (optional)
Lemon wedges, for serving
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. In a baking dish, preferably a clay dish such as a Moroccan tagra or a gratin dish, arrange half the onion slices in an even layer. Add the beans on top and spread them out in a layer. Top with the rest
of the onion slices and the thyme sprigs. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place in the oven and bake until the onion has wilted some, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and carefully place the cod fillets on top. Drizzle generously with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
3. Bake, uncovered, for about 10 minutes, then carefully flip the fillets. Continue to bake until the cod flakes easily with a fork, 12 to 15 more minutes. Sprinkle with chopped herbs (if using) and serve directly from the dish, passing lemon wedges at the table.
The bison-focused restaurant RGE RD in Alberta is a model of sustainable, hearty cooking that expresses the terroir of the region.
Story by KRISTA SIM MONS
Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY
Caitlin Fulton and chef Blair Lebsack at RGE RD.
The area surrounding Edmonton in the province of Alberta is considered to be the agricultural heartland of Canada, and there’s a movement to uplift prairie cuisine taking hold in the city. It’s on full display at RGE RD, named after the range roads that mark the sprawling ranchlands outside the city limits. Here, co-owners chef Blair Lebsack and wife Caitlin Fulton have evolved their long-table field dinners into a full-service fine dining restaurant, showcasing all that Western Canada has to offer. Their show-stopping nose-to-tail butcher shop located next door to the restaurant offers primal cuts from family-owned regenerative farming operations, as well as sandwiches and grab-and-go items like sausage rolls, charcuterie, sandwiches, and housemade bison jerky. A visit to their restaurant reveals soul-warming dishes that are exactly what you’d want to eat mid-winter. Lesback grew up on the land, so championing farmers comes naturally. The first thing you’ll notice on the menu among primal cuts is the focus on bison, a meat that’s having a moment in the wellness community for being a rich protein source with fewer calories and less saturated fat than grass-fed beef. Bison are also viewed as a sustainable source of protein because they roam freely without completely destroying grassland, produce less methane gas, and regenerate the soil as they roam. “The settlers came and killed off the buffalo, which was a main source of food for Indigenous people of this land,” says Lebsack. “It’s our homage to our first food.” With bison now sustainably managed, a restaurant like RGE RD can now thrive. Taste the regenerative revival in the feast that follows.
Prairie Plane
The RGE RD house version of a Paper Plane, using local whiskey and amaro. MAKES 1
1 oz. Field Notes Don't Call Me Sweet Pea Garden Amaro
½ oz. Eau Claire Distillery Rupert’s Whisky
½ oz. Aperol
½ oz. lemon juice
Shake over ice, strain into a cocktail coupe or Nick and Nora glass, and garnish with a lemon zest.
Grizzly Gouda & Potato Pierogies
WITH CABBAGE AND ONION CREAM
These pierogies are filled with creamy mashed potatoes and robust and nutty
Canadian Sylvan Star Grizzly Gouda, then boiled and pan-fried to golden perfection. Served alongside savory cabbage sautéed with bacon and a rich onion cream sauce, this dish brings a comforting, hearty blend of flavors to the table.
SERVES 4-6
DOUGH:
2 cups all-purpose flour
¾ cup cold water
1 large egg
2 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp. canola or grapeseed oil
FILLING:
1 ½ lbs. russet potatoes
1/3 a white onion, minced
1 Tbsp. butter
1 ½ cup Sylvan Star Grizzly Gouda cheese, grated Salt, to taste
Fine black pepper, to taste
CABBAGE:
1/3 a white onion, sliced
¼ head savoy cabbage, sliced
1 tsp. whole-grain mustard
3 strips thick bacon, diced
1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
ONION CREAM:
1/3 a white onion, sliced
1 clove garlic
2 Tbsp. white wine
2 cups heavy cream
1 Tbsp. butter Salt, to taste
1. Make the dough: Add flour, water, egg, salt, and oil to a large bowl and mix well to incorporate. Add more water if needed. Remove onto a smooth surface and knead the dough for 5 to 6 minutes.
2. Wrap dough and let rest at room temperature for an hour.
3. Peel potatoes and cut into quarters. Place them into a large pot of cold, salted water. Bring to a boil and cook until fork tender, about 30 minutes. Strain once cooked.
4. While the potatoes are cooking in a small pan, melt butter and cook onions until soft, trying not to brown them. In a large bowl, mash the potatoes, add onions and excess butter, cheese, and salt and pepper to taste, then set aside.
5. Assemble pierogies: Scoop potato filling into small balls, about 1.5 tablespoons. Roll out dough to 1/8-inch thick. Cut out 3-inch circles. Place the potato ball into the center of the dough circle. Brush one side of the dough very lightly with water. Fold the dough over to form a
half-circle and pinch the edges closed. Set aside on a lined tray and continue until complete.
6. In a sauté pan, add bacon, render out fat, remove bacon, and set aside. Add onion and cabbage, cook for 3 to 4 minutes, add the bacon back in, and add apple cider vinegar and mustard.
7. Season to taste with salt and keep warm until serving.
8. In a small pot, sweat onion and garlic in butter. Deglaze with white wine. Add heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Reduce by 1/3. Purée sauce until smooth with a stick blender in the pot (or use a blender). Salt to taste. Keep warm.
9. Bring a large pot of salt water to a boil, add pierogies, and cook until they float, about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon. Now pan-fry in a nonstick pan with oil or butter until brown on both sides.
10. You can plate in one large bowl and serve family style, or individually plate with 3 to 4 pierogies per plate. Add cabbage and pour onion cream onto the dish. Finish with a dollop of crème fraîche if you wish.
Bison with Hazelnut Spätzle AND
CHARRED CARROTS
This dish pairs tender, perfectly seared bison steaks with homemade hazelnut spätzle and roasted carrots. The rich beef stock reduction and wholegrain mustard add depth to the plate, while black currants and sunflower sprouts provide a touch of brightness. Sliced shallots and a final sprinkle of flaky sea salt give it a final textural pop.
SERVES 6
BISON STEAKS:
6 6 to 8 oz. bison flat iron per person (substitute striploin or tenderloin if necessary)
1 ½ Tbsp. kosher salt
1 ½ Tbsp. fresh ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. canola or grapeseed oil
SPÄTZLE (make ahead of time):
2 cups all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
2 Tbsp. hazelnuts, toasted and ground
2 cloves roasted garlic
¼ cup water (as needed)
½ cup whole milk
1 ½ tsp. kosher salt
Pinch ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
ROASTED CARROTS:
3 cups carrots, peeled and oblique-cut
½ cup sunflower sprouts
3 Tbsp. whole black currants
1 ½ Tbsp. whole-grain mustard
1 ½ cups beef stock reduction
½ cup very thinly sliced shallots
1. Make spätzle: It can be made up to one day ahead of time. In a large bowl, mix dry ingredients together: flour, hazelnuts, salt, pepper, and parsley. In another large powl, mix wet ingredients together: eggs and milk (save water to thin out if necessary). Mix by hand or with a stand mixer. Put wet ingredients into bowl, pour dry ingredients into wet, and whip with a paddle attachment or whisk for about 5 minutes until some gluten is formed. It should be moist and sticky. Set aside at room temperature for an hour.
2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and set a perforated pan over top. Put spätzle dough on top of the perforated pan and push through the holes with a spatula into the boiling water. Let them cook until they float to the top of the water. Cook for another 30 seconds, then remove and put into ice water. Now drain and toss with oil
and refrigerate until you are ready to sauté them with the meal.
3. Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat beef stock reduction and keep warm until plating.
4. Start carrots: In an oven-proof sauté pan, put some oil. Sauté carrots on medium-high heat for 2 minutes until they start to caramelize a little, shake the pan, season with salt, and turn off heat. As the bison is just finishing cooking, put carrots into the oven to finish for 6 to 8 minutes.
5. Cook Bison: Brush bison steaks with oil and season with salt. Bring cast-iron pan to mediumhigh heat, add bison steaks, sear (depending on thickness) for 3 to 5 minutes, then flip and sear the other side for the same amount of time. Turn off pan, add a knob of butter, and baste the steaks with the butter. Remove from the pan and put on a plate, then pour excess butter and juices over the steaks and allow to rest for 6 to 8 minutes.
6. For spätzle: Use a large nonstick pan and bring to medium-high heat. Add oil, add spätzle, sauté for 2 to 3
minutes, stirring often, adding cooked carrots to pan. Season with salt and toss in whole-grain mustard. Add a small amount of butter and remove from heat.
7. Time to plate. Set out dishes. Evenly distribute spätzle and carrots, add black currants on top of the spätzle, then add sunflower shoots. Slice each bison steak into 4 to 5 pieces, add the bison, beef stock reduction, and then sliced shallots. Finish with a crack of black pepper and flaky sea salt. RR #1 Caesar
A hearty take on the Bloody Mary to cut through the richness of this fortifying winter meal.
MAKES 1
1 oz. seasoning mix (equal parts lime juice, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, pickle brine)
2 oz. vodka Clamato
Fill a tall glass with ice. Add seasoning mix, add vodka, stir, then top with Clamato and stir again. Garnish with a pickle spear and lime wedge.
ST R POWER
A little bit French, a lot L.A., Bar Etoile in L.A.’s emerging
Melrose Hill arts district is setting the bar high for a new model of wine bars in the West.
Story by HUGH GARVEY
Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY
If it weren’t for this old bottle of French wine, this California neo-bistro might never have existed.
Many roads lead to a restaurant opening:
meals eaten, restaurants visited for inspiration, research trips taken, recipes tasted, Pinterests pinned, and for one partner at the new restaurant Bar Etoile in Los Angeles, a single bottle of wine in France. Bar Etoile co-owner Jill Bernheimer had never tasted anything like it: It was alive and vibrant and a little earthy, and maybe what you’d call funky. She was on vacation at a restaurant in Paris and had no idea that she was drinking a bottle made by one of the pioneers of the natural wine movement, that contested genre of fermented grape juice that most can agree is based on minimal intervention, wild yeast, possibly biodynamic, probably organic, likely regeneratively farmed. Inspired by this thrilling new-to-her (and at the time, newish to much of the United States) experience, she learned everything she could about natural wine, left her career in the entertainment industry, and opened a store specializing in natural wine, the first of its kind in Los Angeles. It’s called Domaine LA, which went on to spawn many imitators, and Bernheimer became known as a goddess of sorts of this lovely lowintervention movement. Her shop attracted Julian Kurland, a former beer sommelier and New York and L.A. restaurant veteran, who joined forces with Bernheimer at the shop and now as co-owner at Bar Etoile—the kind of restaurant with the right type of vibe, food, and wine to inspire career changes. Situated on a developing stretch of Western Avenue that’s home to a growing collection of award-winning restaurants, big-time and independent galleries, and fashion, furniture, and design stores, it’s very much of the moment in the evolution of this area of L.A. There’s the wine, of course, a wide-ranging list of natural-esque bottlings from around the world, smart cocktails, an elegant space designed by Lovers Unite with sexy banquettes and booths, a zinctopped bar in the center, and low, flattering lighting that combine to channel the chicer Parisian neo-bistros. The food from chef Travis Hayden is simple and artfully plated: chunky steak tartare, zippy crudo, two-day-brined rotisserie chicken with persimmon béarnaise, and, yes, steak frites. The recipes here are what we think of as the new California comfort cooking: built on well-sourced protein and farmers market ingredients; just rich enough to satisfy, but not so much to weigh you down; perfect with a good bottle of wine; perfect for a party to celebrate new beginnings.
Julian Kurland and Jill Bernheimer at Bar Etoile.
Kumquat Gildas
Legend has it that the Gilda—the spicy, salty, classic Basque bar snack, or pintxo—was named after the Rita Hayworth character in the eponymous film. The version served at Bar Etoile incorporates tangy-sweet kumquats, adding another zippy layer of flavor to this superlative nibble. MAKES 12 GILDAS
6 kumquats, halved and seeds removed
12 pitted Castelvetrano olives
12 guindilla peppers
12 anchovies
12 martini skewers
1. For each skewer, start by threading one end of an anchovy onto the skewer.
2. Next, add an olive, then wrap the remaining anchovy around the olive and skewer the other end.
3. Follow by skewering a guindilla pepper, then finish with a kumquat half.
4. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make 12 Gildas.
Blistered Snap Peas with Feta and Walnut Gremolata
Crunchy, sweet snap peas benefit from a green-fixing blanch and a quick turn in a super hot pan to play up their crisp character with a little toasty char. Rich walnut gremolata spiked with lemon and briny feta makes for a vibrant side dish.
SERVES 4
1 qt. snap peas, blanched, shocked, and dried
2 Tbsp. neutral oil
1 cup feta
1 cup walnut gremolata (see recipe at right)
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. lemon juice
1. Blanch the snap peas in boiling water for 15 to 20 seconds until bright green, then immediately transfer to ice water to cool completely. Drain and dry thoroughly.
2. Heat neutral oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Sear half the snap peas until blistered and slightly charred, then remove and refrigerate.
3. To assemble, toss the snap peas in a mixing bowl with walnut gremolata and lemon juice. Adjust seasoning with salt as needed.
4. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle feta on top.
Walnut Gremolata
¾ cup olive oil
¼ cup toasted walnuts
¼ cup parsley leaves
1/8 tsp. California chile powder
Zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. microplaned or minced garlic
¼ tsp. kosher salt
1. In a food processor, combine all the ingredients and pulse until the parsley is finely chopped and the mixture is well blended.
2. Store any leftover gremolata in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Spiced Almonds
Not too spicy and not too sweet, this elevated take on bar snacks is deceptively simple, the ideal little crunchy and slightly spicy treat to nibble on while you sip wine.
SERVES 4
1 Tbsp. California chile powder
1 Tbsp. Guajillo chile powder
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. sugar
Zest of 1 lime
¼ cup olive oil
1 package toasted Marcona almonds
1. In a small bowl, mix the chile powders, salt, and sugar until well combined.
2. In a large mixing bowl, toss the toasted Marcona almonds with olive oil until evenly coated.
3. Sprinkle the seasoning mixture over the almonds and toss until fully coated.
4. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with fresh lime zest.
Spatchcocked Roasted Chicken with Coriander Honey
Smoked paprika and other chile powders give this simple roasted chicken satisfying bass notes, while the punch of coriander honey makes this a moreish dish. Make the most of the hot oven and cook the roasted root vegetables (see recipe at right) at the same time.
SERVES 4
1 (3-lb.) chicken, spatchcocked
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. smoked paprika
1 Tbsp. onion powder
1 Tbsp. garlic powder
1 Tbsp. brown sugar
1 Tbsp. California chile powder
1 Tbsp. ground white pepper
¼ cup toasted coriander seeds, coarsely ground
½ cup honey
1. Prepare the Chicken: Rinse and pat dry the chicken. Lay it breast-side down on a cutting board. Using heavy-duty scissors, cut along both sides of the backbone and remove it. Flip the chicken over and press down on the breasts to flatten.
2. Season the Chicken: Mix the salt, paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, brown sugar, chile powder, and white pepper in a bowl. Rub the seasoning evenly over all sides of the chicken, ensuring it gets into every crevice. Refrigerate uncovered for up to 48 hours.
3. Roast the Chicken: Preheat the oven to 360°F (180°C). Place the chicken in a roasting pan and surround it with the prepared yams and potatoes (from the recipe at right). Roast for 1 hour, or until the internal temperature reaches 165°F (74°C).
4. Make the Coriander Honey: Combine the honey and coriander seeds in a small saucepan. Heat over low for 30 minutes, then allow the honey to infuse for 20 minutes. Strain out the coriander seeds.
5. Serve: Let the chicken rest for 15 minutes after roasting. Carve the breasts, thighs, and drumsticks, and transfer them to a serving platter. Drizzle with coriander honey and serve with the roasted root vegetables and Kewpie crème fraîche.
Root Vegetables with Kewpie Crème Fraîche
Japanese Kewpie mayo is made with all yolks, thus richer than the standard stuff, and it enriches one of the easiest, tastiest sauces we’ve had in years. Make extra and put it on pretty much everything.
SERVES 4
2 yams, cut into bite-size pieces
12 oz. small potatoes, cut into bite-size pieces
¼ cup olive oil
1 Tbsp. salt
KEWPIE CRÈME FRAÎCHE:
½ cup crème fraîche
¼ cup Kewpie mayonnaise
1 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1. Roast the Vegetables: Toss the yams and potatoes in olive oil and salt. Place them in the roasting pan alongside the chicken and roast until tender, about 1 hour.
2. Make the Kewpie Crème Fraîche: In a small bowl, whisk together crème fraîche, Kewpie mayonnaise, salt, and lemon juice.
3. Serve: Arrange the roasted vegetables around the chicken and serve with a side of Kewpie crème fraîche for dipping.
Melrose Hill Rising
This stretch of Western Avenue is home to a new spate of restaurants, shops, and galleries, poised to become L.A.’s next hot neighborhood.
1 Ètra
Minimalist, wood-paneled, intimate, sexy—and also super friendly!— this modern Italian spot instantly became the art scene hang from the moment it opened. Date night perfect, birthday perfect, anything perfect, really.
2 Cafe Telegrama
The sister cafe to Ètra serves perfect coffee, simple breakfasts and bowls, and a killer breakfast burrito studded with tater tots.
3 L .A. Grocery and Cafe
The new model of what a grocery store should be: produce from the best local farms, a low-waste policy, local-friendly employment, and a fantastic selection of cheese, meats, and grab-and-go food.
4 Kuya Lord
Chef Lord Maynard Llera rightly won Best Chef in California from the James Beard Foundation for his homey and precisely executed updated versions of Filipino classics like lechon and pancit, plus new classics like green goddess little gems and hamachi collar grilled over almond wood.
5 Pop Up Home
An eclectic, exuberant, and wellcurated collection of contemporary art, objects, and vintage furniture from pop-up furniture seller and stylist Tricia Benitez Beanum.
6 Bar Etoile
Chef Travis Hayden’s CalifornianFrench dishes, fantastic wine, and a super chic space make for one of the city’s most exciting restaurant openings in years.
7 David Zwirner
The West Coast outpost of global gallerist David Zwirner brings heavy-hitting exhibitions to a stretch of L.A. that was once home to local pioneers like Ed Ruscha.
Pop Up Home
David Zwirner
Chef Travis Hayden of Bar Etoile
Kuya Lord
L.A. Grocery and Cafe
Cafe Telegrama
MELROSE AVE.
MARATHON
MARATHON
FEBRUARY 13-23, 2025 PALM SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA
TRAVEL & ESCAPES
Wellness in the West
From Indigenous heat treatments to retro restorative spas to the low-cost, high-impact way of staying fit on the road, here’s how to feel good on the go.
Story by KRISTA SIMMONS
Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY
Sensei Lanai
Luxe Longevity
Programs that help you hack aging are trending in luxury travel. Here’s where it’s happening throughout the West.
No longer is health simply skin deep. There’s been an industrywide shift in what consumers expect from wellness, and that trickles down to travel. Gone are the days of a spa treatment or a simple juice cleanse detox retreat being sufficient. The new luxury is longevity. Consumers are looking for bona fide biohacks and roadmaps that can be taken back home and integrated into their daily routines, providing a longer, healthier life. Here are three key players in the space.
SENSEI LANAI
At this bespoke wellness destination, the learning starts long before you arrive on the island. Working with Sensei’s guides, guests set their intentions and then work with the resort’s toptier coaches, doctors, and instructors to not only have the best-in-class spa experiences and fitness programming but also gain a new blueprint on how to live a better, more fulfilled life after returning home. Programming includes everything from hiking retreats and hydrotherapy massages to fascia rolling and VO2 max testing.
MODERN ELDER ACADEMY
Hospitality entrepreneur and author of Learning to Love Midlife Chip Conley recently opened the second location of Modern Elder Academy in Santa Fe. After the success of the first space in Baja California Sur, Conley expanded his retreats to reframe relationships with aging. Activities include everything from midlife edit workshops to interrelationship analysis. “Our program has three key pillars: navigating transitions, cultivating purpose, and owning wisdom. That all falls under the banner of how we reframe our relationship with aging,” says Conley. “We’re moving out of the era of knowledge and into the era of wisdom.”
THE ESTATE
Sam Nazarian, the founder of SBE Entertainment Group, will debut his new line of hotels and residences called The Estate in partnership with entrepreneur Tony Robbins. The new luxury hotel brand will be focused on wellness, longevity, and preventative medicine. The endeavor will start out with a longevity and preventative medicine center slated to open in Los Angeles at Century Plaza in the second half of 2025, followed by hotel openings in St. Kitts; Trento, Italy; and Montreux, Switzerland starting in 2026.
Sensei Lanai
Modern Elder Academy
This page and opposite: culinary and wellness delights at Sensei Lanai.
Heat Seekers
Experiencing the healing power of Indigenous traditions harnessing steam and high temperatures.
FAIRMONT JASPER PARK LODGE
Cree Knowledge Keeper Matricia Brown and her daughter Mackenzie own Warrior Women, leading guests on interactive plant medicine gathering journeys in Jasper National Park. Their 1.5-hour immersive experience starts with an hour of plant exploration and a half-hour of hands-on medicine product, including making tisanes, salves, lotions, hydrosols, soaps, and mineral salts infused with local plants, shrubs, and flowers, which participants can take back to the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge and enjoy in their stunning barrel sauna overlooking Lac Beauvert.
MOON JELLY BATHHOUSE
Opened in early 2024, this private floating sanctuary focused on the healing power of seaweed is located within Canada’s first Tribal Park in Clayoquot Sound in the Tlao-qui-aht Nation. Each self-led, six-hour experience starts with a 15-minute boat ride from the harbor in Tofino, known for its natural hot springs, where soakers enjoy two private oversize saltwater seaweed hot tubs, a rinse shower, a covered gazebo lounge with daybeds and warm blankets, a sky hammock swaying over open water, and the magical sea surrounding the property for cold plunging back and forth.
NAVIVA
At this adults-only sanctuary situated on 48 acres of pristine coastline in Nayarit, guests can engage with the local Indigenous culture in many ways, including a transformative temazcal ritual that combines physical cleansing with spiritual healing. The word is derived from Nahuatl language, meaning “house of heat,” and Naviva works with local Native practitioners to facilitate a grounding meditation before entering the adobe dome, where participants sit in a circle around hot coals ritualistically steamed and stoked with copal while the practitioner leads prayers and intentions of ancestral healing and gratitude through prayer and song. It’s almost unbearably hot, but you’ll walk out feeling reborn.
Naviva
Moon Jelly Bathhouse
Hot Springs Eternal
A historic hot spring resort has been restored and upgraded to offer visitors a soothing escape.
Murrieta Hot Springs in the Temecula Valley has been a distinguished retreat ever since it made its debut in 1902. After three decades of private seclusion and a recent restoration, it has finally reopened, and it’s a stunner. The property boasts a sprawling woodburning sauna area that overlooks the palm tree-lined pools and plenty of opportunities to find solitude, with more than 50 geothermal pools, cold plunges, and water features. The restored natural water features are a real highlight, giving the property a truly otherworldly feel. There are also barrel hot tubs for soaking in, which are particularly beautiful during golden hour. Pro tip: This is a great time to grab a cocktail at its poolside bar, or a juice from its restaurant, Talia Kitchen. The restaurant features wellness-driven fare from land and sea, including produce from local farmers. There’s also Cafe Azuli, which features a lunch menu with items like mahimahi tacos, poke bowls, and avocado toast. The new design of the guest rooms boasts minimalist design with earthy terra-cotta tones that soothe the mind. Comfortable bedding and plush linens mean you’ll get an excellent night of sleep, especially when bolstered by the sleep amenities, which include melatonin gummies and aromatherapy kits. What’s so special about Murrieta Hot Springs has always been its history, and though it did put a lot behind the makeover, the historic details are still intact. Think arched doorways, detailed sconces, and original Spanish-style fountains throughout the property that give it an Old World touch. All in all, it’s the ideal spot to spend any kind of trip away, whether that be a bachelorette weekend, a getaway with a loved one, or simply a solo trip to destress.
This Is the Best Sport to Explore a New City (and It’s Free)
A capsule guide to running when you’re on the road.
As a lifelong athlete and avid traveler, staying active while on the road isn’t just a matter of fitness for me, it’s a matter of sanity. And while I wish there were an Olympic pool or ocean I could dive into at every destination, the one constant I can control is packing a pair of trainers. (Truly, it’s the first thing I throw into my suitcase, every single time.) Running isn’t just great for combating jet lag and counterbalancing all the eating I love to do on a trip; it’s the ultimate way to immerse myself in the heartbeat of a new destination. There’s nothing like lacing up and exploring bustling streets and unknown terrain. Every stride reveals a new facet of a city’s personality. And it doesn’t have to cost a thing.
A Gorewear Contest 2.0 Long Sleeve
I really like these wicking, lightweight long sleeves because they keep you cool and dry in most conditions, and they also provide visibility if you’re running in the early morning or late at night. $80; gorewear.com
B Honey Stinger
I learned quickly in my running journey that if you’re running longer than an hour, you absolutely have to be fueling. While the gels are great for race day, I am obsessed with Honey Stinger’s caffeinated chews and waffles. The recovery bars are also really tasty. You can also snack on dates or sour candies. 12-pack for $32; honeystinger.com
C Body Glide
Chafing is real, and this stuff really works. Swipe this balm on before long runs, or even for long days of walking and exploring. You’ll thank me later. $11; bodyglide.com
D Hoka Bondi 8
The first thing I throw into my carry-on is always, always a pair of trainers. For my first half marathon, this pair got me and my wonky knees through training and race day. I brought them on my recent trips to Lanai and Punta Mita, and the vibrant colorway always gets compliments. $165; hoka.com
E Shokz OpenRun Headphones
The bone conduction technology allows you to hear cars and other activity around you, making for a safer run. They’re sweatproof and waterproof, produce excellent audio quality, and won’t fall out of your ears like many earbuds do. $130-$180; shokz.com
Insider
Seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts.
STAY
Casa Loma feels like it could be anywhere but has shades of home—a bohemian’s paradise. The details are impeccable and well-traveled, a bespoke enclave for both the road-weary and those on holiday. I dig everything about it. I could imagine being anywhere on Earth sitting at the
bar, yet it’s still uniquely Laguna Beach because of the local homage woven into Casa Loma’s tapestry. A must-stay.
EAT
Start off at Miki—a sushi and sake bar with an incredible legacy. It originally opened in 2000 with an all-female sushi chef staff. The namesake chef
(who has since passed away) was personally trained by Nobu Matsuhisa. My good friend Chris Olsen brought back the original female chef team to continue the tradition. It’s magical, and there’s only room for 32, so stay on it! Adolfo’s Mexican Food is your go-to with sandy feet. A pillar of the community since the ‘80s,
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Ryan Hitzel is the founder of the adventure lifestyle apparel brand Roark. Rooted in travel and surf culture, his collections are inspired by farflung destinations with designs that meet the demands of rigorous adventure. When he’s not chasing waves off the beaten path, you can find Hitzel in his Southern California hometown— known for its creative community of shapers and painters, as well as its magnificent white-sand beaches—with his wife and kids.
Adolfo and Connie raised my friends and me on rice, beans, and, oddly enough, one of the best burgers around. It might be because they grill the patties in the carnitas grease, but they won’t confirm or deny. Now run by their kids, it’s a great spot with a family-friendly vibe. For eating and drinking, try AhbA . It’s got a younger feel and great music. From branzino to filet and truffle fries, the food is on point. It’s loud and communal, so be ready to socialize. Next door at Helen’s, they converted a house into a bar and preserved the furniture from the previous occupant. The result is a ‘70s house party vibe, complete with shag carpet and cigarette-burnt couches.
SHOP
I still shop at the surf shop where I worked as a kid, Laguna Surf & Sport . It’s
This month: Laguna Beach, CA
The insider: Ryan Hitzel, Founder of Roark
Casa Loma
Discover the greatest secrets of the Land of the Pharaohs!
The time has come for the legendary Dr. Zahi Hawass to unveil ancient Egyptian mysteries that were lost for millennia.
The real-life Indiana Jones returns to North America to share the latest discoveries, reveal groundbreaking finds drawn from his most recent excavations and make the most thrilling announcements of his remarkable career.
Join Dr. Hawass for a captivating all-new multimedia presentation prepared exclusively for this historic tour. Stay after the lecture for a Q&A session and a book signing.
This event will make history – live on stage – and you won’t want to miss it!
A ROYAL EVENING
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the original hardcore surf shop in town. It smells like coconut Sexwax, and you may or may not get the correct surf report—it depends on your vibe. They’ll hook you up with the best gear and essentials for an epic day at the beach. Tell them Roark sent ya.
DO
Laguna Beach offers endless options for a good time, starting with some of the most secluded and beautiful beaches in America. (A couple of notable Sunset favorites: Thalia Street and Crystal Cove State Park.) From there, check out the trail system, which boasts worldclass mountain biking, trail running, and hiking. With its rich Indigenous history and abundant flora and fauna, you won’t be disappointed. And in the summer, the Sawdust Art Festival is a glimpse into Laguna’s off-kilter past. Remnants of its free spirit remain strong in the kitschy art and music in the canyon.
AhbA Sawdust Art Festival
Laguna Beach
Adolfo’s Mexican Food
Unbox the West
Every three months, you’ll get a box full of home, design, food, and garden products from the West and beyond curated by Sunset editors. Our next box will be filled with items that are perfect for spring parties and gardening. Expect products to help you make the most of the season while you’re spending time in the kitchen. It’s the easiest way to live the Sunset lifestyle!
SOUTHWEST
Denise Rosales is the owner of The Frybread Lounge, an Indigenousowned and -operated restaurant in Old Town focused on preserving ancestral ingredients in a modern context. It’s known for its bison dishes— especially bison asada tacos and birria—that utilize ingredients from local growers like Ramona Farms. Here, Rosales shares her tips on this Western gem in the Sonoran Desert, known for its striking desert landscapes, ample outdoor activities, and diverse cultural attractions.
elements, is top-notch.
EAT
This month: Scottsdale, AZ
The insider: Denise Rosales, Owner of The Frybread Lounge & Native Art Market
STAY
I always recommend Hotel Valley Ho, a midcentury modern gem in the heart of Old Town Scottsdale. I love the vibes and history and that you can easily walk to local shops like ours from there. Another great option is Sanctuary Camelback , which has the best sunset views in town. It’s chic but cozy, and the restaurant,
I dig the food and casual atmosphere at Frank & Lupe’s , a family-owned New Mexican restaurant in Scottsdale’s Arts District. It has an awesome hidden patio and the best pillowy sopaipilla. Our new neighbor, Beginner’s Luck, has the most delicious fancy French toast. And at the Old Town Scottsdale Farmers Market , don’t miss the homemade tamales from The Tamale Store
DO
Hiking the McDowell Sonoran Conservancy is a must to take in the beauty of the Sonoran Desert . There are so many trail options, but Gateway is one of my favorites because it’s a scenic loop trail with big saguaros and stunning spring wildflowers. Drive the Apache Trail , a winding scenic byway where you’ll see mountains, lakes (yes, we have water in Arizona!), and cacti. The cliff walls are breathtaking! In the heart of Old Town , there are so many options. I love Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West . There are also fun
cart tours with JoyRidesAZ and any tour with Ace Bailey of Ultimate Art and Cultural Tours, an expert on Scottsdale’s art, history, and architecture.
SHOP
The Merchantile of Scottsdale has locally made arts and crafts, and they’re a woman- and minorityowned business like mine, creating a space for Arizona artists. I love their desert-chic vibe. At Native Art Market , everything is authentic and handmade, plus the sales go directly to the artists. The best place for Southwestern souvenirs is Kactus Jock , from hot sauce and prickly pear syrup to t-shirts and ballcaps.
golf
The Merchantile of Scottsdale
Hotel Valley Ho
Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West
PACIFIC NORTHWE ST
Childhood best friends Darcy Cobb and Amber Busuttil Mullen fell in love with the Salmon River Gorge on a family rafting trip, so much so that they eventually revamped a charming inn, now known as Steelhead Lodge. It’s easy to see what drew the pair to the canyon, known for its steep mountain ranges, abundant wildlife, and outdoor adventures—from jet boat tours to four-wheeling and morel mushroom foraging to fly-fishing. The Valley is bookended by the lively town of Riggins and the Western hospitality of White Bird, 26 miles north along Highway 95-S. Here, the pair shares some of their favorite restaurants, watering holes, shops, and attractions to explore along the way.
SHOP
Salmon River Canyon cuts through Idaho’s “banana belt,” from which Idaho Banana Co. gets its name. The boutique has an eclectic variety of Idaho-made products and handcrafted gifts, as well as local beer and wine to enjoy under its gazebo overlooking the Little Salmon River tributary.
White Bird Antiques is a historic drugstore that was preserved by Bruce and Pat Ringsmith with the intention of keeping the quality of the past alive. Their shop is full of treasures, including antique furniture and textiles, as well as Native American and Old Western items.
DO
“On a good day fishing, nothing is perfect and everything is perfect,” says Rapid River Outfitters owner Roy Akins, known about town for his impressive beard and his even more impressive skills navigating a drift boat—the quintessential fly-fishing craft used in the West—in search of steelhead and bass. Hammer Down River Excursions offers tours of the Salmon River and the adjacent Hells Canyon—the deepest river gorge in North America. Orange Torpedo Trips floats through the largest wilderness area in the Lower 48 with spectacular scenery and campsites along the way. You can take a full- or half-day
This month: Northwest Idaho
The insiders: Darcy Cobb and Amber Busuttil Mullen, Owners of Steelhead Lodge
tour to see why Riggins is known as the “Whitewater Capital of Idaho.”
EAT
A restaurant on one side, and a bar, pizza, and sandwich shop on the other, Summervilles
Steakhouse has something for everyone. Belly up to the bar decorated with local memorabilia before tucking into delicious, hearty portions of steak and salmon, or one of its famous sandwiches named after local highlights, like Preacher Rock and Skookumchuck Two Rivers Coffee offers a diverse variety of single-origins, blends, and flavored coffees, each sourced from small local growers, plus breakfast burritos, wraps, sandwiches, and baked goods. Don’t miss the local favorite, the birdseed muffin.
Orange Torpedo Trips
Hammer Down River Excursions
White Bird Antiques
West Essentials
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Trails to Blaze, Views for Days, Be Amazed
Go off the beaten path and march to your own beat. Hike secluded trails to dramatic views. Expect the unexpected in the uncommonly beautiful heart of Nevada. Go on—get a little out there. TravelNevada.com
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The Living Story of Wine in the West
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Awe and then Some Snowy slopes. Breathtaking scenery. Après ski vibes. Cool entertainment. Gourmet dining. The South Shore of Lake Tahoe knows how to do winter. It’s kind of our thing. And it’s Awe and then Some. VisitLakeTahoe.com
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The Age of Adventure
How to tap the natural power of the great outdoors to improve cognitive function, age powerfully, and live longer.
Interview by KRISTA SIMMONS
San Francisco-based author, firefighter, and paraglider Caroline Paul has always filled her life with adventure. Now at the age of 61, she’s released Tough Broad: From Boogie Boarding to Wing Walking—How Outdoor Adventure Improves Our Lives as We Age, a book that explores how to optimize our physical, mental, and emotional health at all stages of life. Combining scientific research, cultural studies, psychology, and personal stories, the book is a call to embrace the outdoors in our 50s, 60s, 70s, and beyond.
What is the one through line you found throughout your interviews featured in your book?
Engaging in an outdoor activity, whatever it was—scuba diving, going on a daily walk, bird-watching, cycling—uplifted and enhanced their view of their aging journey. The science is clear: How we look at our own aging predicts how well we age. This means that a negative view of our own aging leads to cardiac arrest and cognitive issues earlier. And the opposite is true: If we see our aging journey as exhilarating and full of possibility and joy, then we are happier, healthier, and we live seven years longer. When you embrace an outdoor
activity, you aren’t just picking up a hobby, you are transforming your mind and body in powerful ways.
There’s plenty of science behind how nature relaxes frenetic brain waves, leading to improved memory and cognitive function. Can you talk more about that?
Studies show that volunteers who took a walk in green space tested much better afterward on cognitive tests. This is because the brain feels rested, less jangled, and can function smoothly. Conversely, in urban settings—with its hard, linear architecture, constantly moving objects, and loud noises—our brains are working very hard to filter for the important information we need in that moment. It’s a tiring process that easily leads to lowlevel anxiety, as well as memory difficulties.
Studies have repeatedly shown that birdsong, flowing water, and wind through trees all effectively coax our brains away from the frazzle of overstimulation, leading to feelings of calm and well-being, as well as lower blood pressure and decreased cortisol. Our brain isn’t working as hard to monitor for threats. Going outside is vital for
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“ SAY ‘YES’ TO AN OPPORTUNITY WHEN IT PRESENTS ITSELF.”
everyone, but as we worry more about brain health in our later years, it becomes especially important.
In this day and age, we are obsessed with the idea of aging gracefully as it relates to aesthetics. Can you talk a bit about what the true markers for healthy aging are for you?
The five pillars are community, purpose, novelty, health, and the positive view of aging I mentioned above. The cool thing is that when you pick up an outdoor activity, you can harness all those things at once, and I know of no other arena where that happens. It’s great to join a book club where you can find community and novelty, but you won’t find health, for instance.
How can someone get into exploring the outdoors in their later years if it’s something they’ve never done before?
Say ‘yes’ to an opportunity when it presents itself. I spoke to Loraine Vaught, 62, who had never had an outdoor interest before. She was going through a difficult time when she saw a group of women boogie boarding in the waves and thought it looked like fun. At a moment in her life where she was willing to upend some stuck notions of herself, she took that small step of saying ‘Yes, why not, it can’t hurt.’ She didn’t expect to keep doing it. And then she shocked herself by loving it! I am not exaggerating when I say it changed her life. My second piece of advice is to take small steps toward the outdoors. Don’t feel you need to do a 15-mile hike up a steep mountain. I spoke to Eric Clow, who began to watch birds from his wheelchair through his kitchen window. Soon he moved to his porch, then his backyard. So, say yes and take small steps and see where it leads.
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