$ 9.00
JULY 2019 I VOL 52 I NO 07
New hands at The Pattern Table
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editor ’ s note
HOW TO BUILD A TOP PERFORMING EMPLOYEE
Think greeting customers as they walk in and never talking to them again will translate to sales? Stop reading now, I can’t help you. Providing a great customer experience goes beyond just asking how someone is doing. It’s all about presentation, attitude and knowledge. Hire for attitude, train for knowledge. Hiring approachable people and training them is almost always the way to go for retail, simply because people buy off people they like. Someone who is good at sales and pitching usually isn’t in retail because they come across as tough, cold or unapproachable. It’s all about attitude and, I can’t believe I’m saying this, natural auras – sometimes this is worth more than experience. Disengagement and lack of enthusiasm can be spotted a mile away from not only co-workers but customers too. It’s also contagious. By starting with a good foundation, you can easily build up an employee with an effective training programme. Including everything from basic product knowledge to manufacturing backgrounds. Tackle training the same way you tackle any other aspect of your business. In the book The Nordstrom Way, it talks about how the giant department store hires nice people and teaches them how to sell. “Nordstrom believes the best people have been trained by their parents while growing up.” Attitude is embedded: you can lead a horse to water, but you can’t make it say thank you. Training can’t only be: “Here’s the tea, here’s the coffee, toilets to the left, and you finish at 5.” Don’t leave them to drown, training works best when you ask the new employee about their strengths and weaknesses, and then tailor their training to excel at areas they are good at and improve on areas where they aren’t. Airliner JetBlue conducts group interviews to see how they interact with each other, and recently Dunedin Burger King got in trouble for publicly interviewing a group of applicants in the middle of a busy service. Ask your new employee why they wanted this job, what motivates them, where they want to be in two or five years. This is an easy way to get to know them a little better. Learning about their motivations for working helps you figure out how to motivate them during training and further into their role. How do they retain information? Visual learner, role-playing, analogies – there are lots of ways to drive home a message. Using a mix of methods is the most effective way to go over something once, and not have to return to it over and over. I’ve found in the past after training Employee A one-on-one then getting that same person to teach Employee B in front of me is the
best way to see them retain information. They hear it from direct, have a reference on paper or in a manual, see it demonstrated, and finally teach another employee. Practice and repetition is the key to development. In larger group meetings, ask your staff what they would do in a scenario. Role-playing is often an effective way to see if staff have retained information. Haven’t got the time? Try modular training. Short flexible training sessions where they might learn one part of the business at a time, instead of a maybe a full solid day of training. How much can you fit into an hour after store closing? If teaching isn’t your gig, don’t be afraid to use one of your store managers or even outside professionals. Teach them how to recognise different levels of customers. From a friendly easy sell to cross-selling to the most challenging scenarios. For example, there are some people in the world who are meanspirited or temperamental and you have to prepare your new employee for not only the best situations but the worst too. Know your policy, and make sure that your staff know the company policy. Your employee should know every product in the store and where it is like the back of their hand. If it’s not in the store, where is it? Online? Christchurch? Hamilton? Know your opposition's products and what advantages or point of difference your store or products have. Train, train, train again. Almost all retailers provide some kind of basic training, but great employees never stop learning. Allow them to step up. Give them opportunities to move up and to grow.
2 I July 2019
Chris Glavovic Raymund Sarmiento Ciaran Carroll
Marcs Jacobs Illustrated
Illustrated by Grace Coddington Over 50 Marc Jacobs collections personally selected by Marc Jacobs himself are illustrated by the talented Grace Coddington in this book. Marc Jacobs Illustrated collections that date back to as far as 1992. The illustrations are complemented with Jacob’s handwritten commentary; insightful and a nice touch. The publishing of this book coincides with Marc Jacobs International’s 30th anniversary. This hardback book includes 250 illustrations alongside an introduction written by Sofia Coppola.
Fashion in LA
By Tania Fares and Krista Smith This book documents Los Angeles' explosion into the scene of global fashion. Los Angeles’ being the hub of cultural influences, artistic and creative industries, has earned its place along fashion hubs such as New York, London, Milan and Paris. Fashion in LA not only talks about red-carpet looks but also gives us insight to more than forty designers that are drivers for the Los Angeles overall success.
Thierry Mugler: Couturissime
By Thierry-Maxine Loriot and Nathalie Bondil Thierry Mugler created the label in 1974 that has since revolutionised contemporary fashion. Mugler is famous for creating his iconic haute couture garments and uses his imaginative vision through his different yet similar worlds of a photographer, director, choreographer, and perfumer. This book has 450 gorgeously illustrated images which allows us to see the haute couture world of Mugler. The lavishly designed book traces Mugler’s career and reveals never-before-seen material by photographers such as Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, and David LaChapelle. This book complements the first exhibition on Mugler at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.
Works 1983-2019
CHAIRMAN Peter Mitchell INTERNS Janet Guan PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287 EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand CONTENT MANAGERS Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com +64 9 304 0142 EDITORIAL TEAM Ed Scott NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM
fashionable reads
enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine.
By Fabien Baron This book is highly anticipated, written by one of the most sought-after art directors in the world; Fabien Baron. It showcases his 30+ years of his talent. Fabien Baron is an award-winning art director and showcases the entire range of his work in this book, from typography through to interior design and everything in between. Baron’s book presents aesthetic logic with clarity and style. Accompanying text written by Adam Gropnik allows this book to be the ultimate insider’s destination for fashion, photography and design visionary. Fabion Baron is the founder of global creative agency Baron & Baron.
Designer: Knuefermann Photography: Getty Images
Join us as we celebrate the very best of the NZ fashion industry. DELEGATE REGISTRATION IS NOW OPEN! Visit www.nzfashionweek.com/delegates to secure your place. 26 August 2019 | 1 September 2019
Auckland Town Hall & Aotea Square
fast five
LUXURY CONCEPT STORE LAUNCHES GALLERY
Located in the heart of Ponsonby, Auckland, luxury retailer The Shelter has introduced its latest initiative which explores a new avenue. The Shelter Gallery was designed to bring together both emerging and established artists, designers and multidisciplinary makers. Curated for art and object connoisseurs to view and acquire, the gallery concept has a primary focus on enriching and inspiring the community. Each exhibition runs for three months. The
inaugural exhibit '11 Stools, 5 Photos and One Man's Books' launches today showcasing one-of-a-kind pieces by Syo, Walk In The Park, Rupert Enberg, Stephen Junil Park, Junguen Lee, ABnumeral AB, Lela Jacobs, Greer Twiss, Nathan Goldsworthy, and Jamie Mcnab. The stunning curation offers the opportunity to purchase some of the unique pieces alongside framed artwork by Johnny McCormack, and Bruce Connew books.
CLOSING THE CLOTHING LOOP Local menswear brand Asuwere has created a new initiative called Give to Get which aims to help close the clothing loop. Members of the clothing subscription brand receive high-quality wardrobe essentials on a monthly basis. Asuwere members receive their new products, replacing some items that are perfectly fit for use by another. Teaming up with charity Fix Up Look Sharp, Asuwere aims to collect
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its members old clothes and give them to people in need. The project's first donator was Dan Carter, and already Asuwere has been inundated with customers requests to give clothing to the cause. "Give to Get is a project that is extremely important to us," explained Asuwere co-founder Sam Hickey. "With a personal goal of mine to help all guys look good, we are now able to make this happen beyond just our members."
ASOS PROFITS FALL 87 PERCENT E-retailer giant ASOS is on the verge of reducing its staff, perhaps as a result of its declining profits recently. It was reported that the company is to reduce 100 job positions mainly in marketing. Its marketing division currently employees over 4000 people worldwide. While the first quarter of 2019 looked good for ASOS, with a total sales growth of 14 percent and retail growth at 13 percent, the e-giant's profits are actually in decline , falling, before tax, 87 percent compared to the same period in 2018. "We grew sales by 14 percent despite a more competitive market. ASOS is capable of a lot more. We have identified a number of things we can do better and are taking action accordingly," explained Nick Beighton, ASOS CEO. ASOS has said that their performance was impacted by large scale transformational projects. "We are confident of an improved performance in the second half and are not changing our guidance for the year," Beighton added. "We are nearing the end of a major capex programme. Whilst this has inevitably involved significant disruption and transition costs, the global capability it now provides us gives us increased confidence in our ability to continue to capture market share whilst restoring profitability and accelerating free cash flow generation. Global online fashion is a growing, 220 billion British pounds market. We now have the tech platform, the infrastructure and a constant conversation with our growing customer base who love our own great product and the constantly evolving edit of brands we present to them. We believe that ultimately there will only be a handful of companies with truly global scale in this market. We are determined that ASOS will be one of them."
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I5
LINGERIE BRAND’S FIRST RETAIL SPACE In the form of brick-and-mortar, ThirdLove is on its way to New York to open its doors for the very first time. Popular for its e-commerce experience, the size-inclusive brand is excited to showcase its new Fit Lab where two-thirds of the retail space will be fitting rooms. "Part of the reason I started ThirdLove is that there is a lot of anxiety around bra try-ons and bra fit," explained Heidi Zak, ThirdLove's co-founder and co-chief executive officer. "We’re creating a fitting room where it’s more comfortable and feels like your house." The fitting rooms
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feature adjustable lighting and the option to work with a fit stylist. No measuring tapes or coat hangers will be seen in store. Instead, women can use one of the in-store iPads to utilise the brand's digital Fit Finder, and products will be displayed on tables and on the walls. The San Francisco-based label is launching its first pop-up in New York's SoHo district from July 24th through to December. The goal of the pop-up is to collect data on customer preferences while offering a new way to experience bra shopping.
UK ONLINE RETAIL TO SKYROCKET Online shopping is expected to account for 53 percent of UK retail sales over the next ten years, according to a report by Retail Economics. The report, commissioned by law firm Womble Bond Dickinson, predicted the growth will be powered by three primary factors: the UK adult population's changing demographics, the development of faster, cheaper, in-home deliveries, and the reduced availability of physical stores. Millennials and members of Gen-Z will make up half of adult consumers in 10 years, and their shopping habits will become more dominant as they enter the market. The research showed that 62 percent of 16-24-year-olds (Gen-Z) shop online at least twice a month, compared with just 29 percent of over-65-year-olds. Smartphones are also predicted to
influence the shopping habits of adults, with over half of Gen-Z consumers describing their phones as their main source of awareness when it comes to new brands and retailers. After five consecutive years of net closures of retail stores, and with reduced footfall across UK high streets, shopping centres, and retail parks, the report concludes that this trend is only set to continue. 10 percent of consumers surveyed said they will shop less in physical stores in the next 12 months, outnumbering those who said they would increase their in-store shopping. This is despite the fact that a quarter of Gen-Z consumers said they are more likely to do their shopping in high streets and shopping centres than online.
cover story
New hands at The Pattern Table
Iconic Mount Eden garment manufacturer The Pattern Table has a new owner in the form of designer and pattern maker Rachel Mills. Mills has long been a staple of the New Zealand fashion scene, and decided to purchase The Pattern Table to help deal with her burgeoning clientele. “For the past six months, my pattern making client list had just been growing and growing,” she told Apparel. “If I’d continued as I was going, it would have taken about three years to get to the same place I could get to by purchasing The Pattern Table.” Mills had recently brought on a junior pattern maker to assist her when the opportunity arose to purchase The Pattern Table. The experience reminded her of a five-year stint at the beginning of her career in the Karen Walker sampling room, working with a multi-talented team. “I always wanted to be able to expand into that kind of set-up, as a way to share and nurture skills, but I knew it would be a long game to build up from nothing.” When The Pattern Table went up for sale, Mills mulled it over for some time. “I didn’t take it too seriously in the beginning, then the idea really grew on me,” she explained. “He put me forward to be considered and after some meetings and discussions, I quickly realised it had everything I needed to expand my business quickly.” Skilled machinists are few and far between, so The Pattern Table presented a unique and timely opportunity for expansion. Upon realising what a golden opportunity The Pattern Table presented for her brand, Mills leapt at the chance to return to a collaborative workplace in a leadership position. “Being such a seasonal industry, I kind of needed all or nothing. The Pattern Table came with staff, machines, and existing work that I could combine with my own.” The Pattern Table consists of a small and highly
efficient team of seven, some of whom have worked at the company for over 20 years. With two full-time and machinists as well as one part-timer, Mills is able to ramp up production without compromising on the commitment to quality she is renowned for. But that doesn’t mean that she’ll simply be sliding into the shoes of the outgoing owners. “In the past, the business had more of a focus on sportswear and uniforms. I want to shift this more towards servicing the fashion industry, as this is where my fulfilment and contacts come from,” Mills explained. “Most of what we are offering will still remain the same, but with a bigger focus on pattern making.” For now, The Pattern Table will focus on sampling, the process Mills has the most hands-on experience with. “This is where I want to focus, because there will always be a demand for local sampling.” Looking ahead, Mills is hopeful that The Pattern Table will expand into production, but the facility currently sits in a middle-ground between individual producers and larger fashion houses with significantly greater capacity. “At the moment, we’re competing with individual outworkers who have little to no overheads,” she explained. “But the more we expand and bring other machinists on board, the more we will be able to service the local industry.”
I always wanted to be able to expand into that kind of set-up, as a way to share and nurture skills, but I knew it would be a long game to build up from nothing. FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO JOIN THE TEAM EMAIL INFO@THEPATTERNTABLE.COM OR CALL 09 630 5071
8 I July 2019
accessory alert
Solo New York DOWNTOWN TRAVEL COLLECTION
Solo New York has released a range of designer backpacks, totes, duffels, briefs and sleeves as a part of their new Downtown Travel Collection. The new collection is designed for the busy traveller looking to pack stylishly for a weekend escape. Springboarding off the company’s popular and successful Duane Hybrid backpack and briefcase, Solo New York brings a unique offering of duffels, a backpack, and an accessory kit. Professional skateboarder, Dave Bachinsky, who is also the founder of ShapeThree, a project that uses recycled skateboard decks to create handmade designs, has also collaborated on the launch. For the launch, Bachinsky created custom handles for the Travel Collection roller duffels. The product range includes The Leroy Rolling Duffel; a 49 litre duffel that meets carry-on requirements for most major airlines as well as having front-facing zip pockets, a separate laundry compartment, and a telescoping handle; the Grand Travel TSA Backpack, which is comprised of a padded laptop compartment, a 30 litre main compartment, front and side mesh pockets and a back panel that slides over luggage handles. It also has multiple carry handles and a padded back and back straps. The Avenue C Rolling Duffel bag is 49 litres and features a zipping front pocket, removable and adjustable shoulder straps, a telescoping handle system, and easy-glide wheels. For something a little larger, the Highline Duffel offers 54 litres, as well as a laptop pocket, a separate show or laundry compartment, and removable and adjustable shoulder straps, as well. And finally, to top off the look, the Liberty Accessory Kit is made to knick-knacks in order. It has a large zipped main compartment, as well as a front pocket for quick and easy access. “Solo New York has always been about creating designs that go above and beyond the needs of our customers, and the new Downtown Travel Collection demonstrates that you can have it all: good-looking, durable bags with all the amenities needed to create memories on weekends away,” said Serkan Ozturkcan, vice president of marketing, Solo New York. “It’s always exciting to see how our brand becomes a part of our customers’ lifestyle, whether they are at the office or travelling for the weekend.”
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in detail
LEO+BE LEO+BE’s Spring 2019 collection SOUL STIRRING sees the brand continue to develop its signature funloving look. “Playful prints are a key part of the LEO+BE collections, with everything from abstract floral to monkey motifs making an appearance,” designer Jenny Drury told Apparel Magazine. “We always like to play around, mix textures, and blur the lines between organic forms and geometric lines.” Inspired by the architecture and atmosphere of Cuba, SOUL STIRRING is a vibrant celebration of colour. Luscious lemons and raging reds pay tribute to the Caribbean island’s traditionally loud, colourful clothing, all tied back with wearable camels and khakis. “The range has a real happy-go-lucky feel, inspired by Cuban life, which encourages us to escape the everyday and disappear into foreign territories for a while,” said Drury. Though the collection is targeting the streetwear/boutique market, designer Jenny Drury crafted SOUL STIRRING from as many natural fibres as possible, sticking mostly to cotton or cotton mixes. “All the garments have a point of difference to them, and the fabrication throughout is playful and mischievous,” said Drury. “I think this creates a signature for the collection and customers love to see a new take on a favourite style that they trust and know.” The collection will be delivered into stores at the beginning of August, and though many orders have already been placed, it’s not too late to grab a piece of the action. “We usually indent a range four months ahead of delivery, but we always carry stock on our ranges so stores can reorder.” LEO+BE’s SOUL STIRRING is best suited for a mixed-label store which complements the brand’s easy femininity and youthful energy. “LEO+BE will always take you where it’s fun, and in today’s world of jet-setting women this collection is a ticket to escapism.” For order enquiries, contact jenny@ketz-ke.co.nz.
12 I July 2019
Vancouver Fashion Week
For more information visit : vancouverkidsfashionweek.com
retail eye
Money For Wine As of this month, Nikki Hewlett is the new owner of popular retail store Money For Wine. Found in Mandeville, the store has been a hit for its great curation of apparel and homewares, as well as its placement next to Miss Cocoa Café. “The location is great, it’s a little bit further away from Gore and it’s nice to come out here for a coffee,” said Hewlett. “It’s a beautiful drive, and it’s great to get away. It’s very cosy and quite relaxing here.” Hewlett told Apparel Magazine that Summer is fantastic with the tiger moth planes next door out on display and flying in. “We get a lot of tourists, they like to get something from New
Zealand to take home with them.” Before acquiring Money For Wine, Hewlett’s previous retail background was with Food Stuffs for many years. “But I always loved fashion,” she added. Both her sister and Hewlett are fashion enthusiasts. “The opportunity came up, and I decided to give it a go.” Hewlett loved
Amore Michelle Baynes grew up on the sunny beaches of Perth, WA. Admittedly, she was always a bit of a beach girl and found moving back to the rural New Zealand was definitely a reality check. Five kids and 3000 cows later, Baynes bought retail store Money For Wine five years ago just outside of Gore in Mandeville. She had always loved everything about fashion and loved the customers. “I could see there was a real gap in the market down our way for certain fashion lines and homewares, so I took the plunge and bought this small business,” she explained. Baynes grew Money For Wine to be a popular Southland destination with over 4,000 followers on social media. “My theory is if you can make a destination work in the middle of a rural area, you can do it anywhere,” she added. She recently sold Money For Wine and launched her new concept store in Gore called Amore. “We chose Gore for our next destination being my home town and buying an old building that we wanted to restore to its former glory with two flats upstairs.” Having direct contact with her customers is a must for business as well as hosting events in-store for her customers. Amore’s point of difference is its curation of high-end fashion and homewares. “It differs to many stores nearby and is a mix of modern and fresh for the small town that is Gore.” Baynes daughter came back
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from overseas in October and couldn’t believe how similar the homewares were to what she had seen in Greece. “I chose the name Amore because it means ‘for love of beautiful things’ in Italian which comes from my Italian heritage and I can’t hide it – I have a love for beautiful things!” Amore’s online offering is a work in progress at the moment. “I know how huge online is for retail now, even bigger than in-store so this is definitely on the cards for us.” Supporting the 2019 MLT Hokonui Fashion Design Awards, Baynes said founder Heather Paterson was a passionate woman who brought fashion from all around to exhibit their creations in Gore. “We are proud to be supporting such a cool event that enables fashion designers to showcase their pieces.”
what the founder of the store had created. “I just love the fashion that Michelle has out here, it’s unique and a wee bit different from what we have down here.” Quality garments is one of her core values for the store, which at the moment consists of womenswear and children, but she hopes to include menswear soon. Hewlett works alone in the store, and is looking to hire a part timer later on. Moving forward, she is very interested in stocking new brands and is looking to start an online store. For more information email money4wine2019@gmail.com or call 0272089431.
Company of Strangers Sara Munro was a special guest judge this year at the 2019 MLT Hokonui Fashion Design Awards. Munro had been asked in the past to judge, but was unable to due to balancing New Zealand Fashion Week and her young son. “I didn’t want to not be able to give it my full attention,” Munro was happy to take up the opportunity this year. “I love seeing the imagination and creativity of emerging designers particularly at pre-tertiary level.” Munro has her own label Company Of Strangers based in Auckland. A highlight of her Hokonui experience was seeing so many passion projects and people who design without constraint of commercial viability. “I also heard that it’s a really fun weekend
from friends who have been, and it was!” The secondary school entries blew Munro’s mind. “The technical ability of such young students but also the creative use of especially the recycled section. I particularly loved the Bayfield High School sport uniform dress and the tent cape.” Munro also opened a pop up shop in the middle of Gore during the event. Open on the Friday and Saturday only, it was located in a well-known pop up shop site. A few car loads and two team members later, Company Of Strangers was set up in Gore. “The pop up was fantastic we got to meet a lot of our out of town clients that we usually deal with on the phone or online so it was lovely to put faces to names,” she said. “We also got to meet a lot of new customers and they loved that we came to them for a change.”
Country Living Owner operator Katie Smith was born and raised in Gore. Smith and her husband have lived in the Great South all their lives with their two daughters Laura and Josie. Smith strived to ensure she had a great work-life balance, and is proud to say she has her dream job. Aiming to be self-employed, Smith started out by owning a local café and then bought the retail store Country Living over four years ago. “We have expanded into fashion as we find it works well with our existing homeware and giftware,” she added. “We want our customers to leave our store feeling like they can’t wait to return.” Smith said making everyone feel welcome is a key part of business, and that customers always come first. “It’s a fun place to be and enjoy retail therapy.” Smith, alongside her two daughters, spend a lot of time researching the latest trends and have the best team in-store. Sourcing unique pieces from expos for all different tastes, the team aims to have something for everyone and every occasion. “We couldn’t do Country Living without our team, they are awesome.” Looking ahead, Smith is finding new and exciting ways to expand her business; like her upcoming Christmas store. Country Living’s point of difference is their diverse
range of stock, customer service, as well as offering new ideas and displays. “We are very enthusiastic and love challenges.” Around 18 months ago, they decided to branch out into ecommerce which turned out to be a huge success. Boasting 14,000 followers on Facebook, Country Living offers special competitions while trying to reflect their warmth they are known for in-store online. Smith added that if you don’t offer both a physical store and online, you will be left behind. After the Hokonui Fashion Design Awards, Country Living has organised a window display featuring the winning garment by Debbie Smith who won the Open Recycled Award. “We greatly support all local community activities, sponsoring prizes, giveaways, donations. In Gore, the local businesses have banded together to help each other and keep people shopping locally,” she explained. “We have a saying in Gore ‘Love Gore, Shop Local’ and the community has definitely got behind this.” Located in the thriving rural town, going from strength to strength, this retailer shows no signs of slowing down. For more information visit www.morethangifts.co.nz or call 0274782535.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 15
REDEMPTION Resene BFF
RVDK Resene Moonlight
GIAMBA Resene Candy Floss
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PAULE KA Resene Moby
ganovich and Taylor explored the idea of anxieties “from society, from being a woman, for loving other designers,” and that to reach your own thing, you have to go through them. This collection was heavily inspired by The Anxiety of Influence: A Theory of Poetry, the 1973 book by literary critic Harold Bloom. All of the garments graced the runway with an I and A-line silhouette, the duo designers found the fine balance between simplicity and complexity of the design, they did this through clean tailoring and creative fabric manipulations. This look features a floral print fabric in a colour like Resene Family Tree. The design has an oriental aesthetic with the use of floral print and Japanese-influenced overgarments. Giamba by Giambattista Valli offered a youthful take on the house’s signature flair, adding fringes, an extra sheen of sequins and emphatic puffs of tulle and ruffles. Giamba dresses tend to be very short, yet elegant, thanks to well-fitted draping, floral prints or extra layers in other places. Like these long ruffled sleeves, or how the framing of the plunging v-shaped neckline. This floral printed I line dress is in a similar hue to Resene Candy Floss. Head designer of Givenchy Clare Waight Keller took a theatrical turn, imagining an "anarchic woman" let loose in an old chateau. In this collection, Keller indicated a shift in a clinical perspective from which she created her first three couture collections for the brand. This collection was more flamboyant and whimsical than her past haute outings, sometimes darkly so, but still highly considered and controlled. This monochromatic floral print is similar to Resene Merino, the A-line empress style dress hides the form of the body, however, with the colour palette and floral print, this exudes elegance and chicness to the overall look. Redemption's head designer Gabriele Moratti released a heavy metal-inspired, colourful, heavily embellished couture collection for their Fall season. This collection saw ruffles, animal print, elegant draping, asymmetrical shapes, and gowns in blush
chiffon worked with gold flecks. Offering a softer colour palette and touches of romance, hero pieces were adorned with giant bows and motif rosettes at the neck or on the sleeves just like this look featured reminiscent to Resene BFF. Ronald van der Kemp continued his sustainable and ethical practice to produce their latest 2019 couture collection, which showcased mainly eighties power-dressing, including rainbow-hued fringed gowns made from tubes of leftover vintage printed silk. Despite the eighties influence, the collection took notes from almost every era and style, from the most classic to the outright wacky; the fabric was the starting point for each design in this eclectic range, which had something for every taste. This dress boasts a bold AGANOVICH Resene floral print in a dominant Family Tree colour similar to Resene Moonlight. For his first collection, designer Maxime Simoens stepped away from Paule Ka's predilection for chic eveningwear and strict tailoring and moved towards something a bit lighter. The brand's latest resort collection focuses on new techniques such as a cool, knitted, leather skirt and a cutyarn jacquard suit with unfinished stitches. Simoens updated the classic Paule Ka pantsuit by elevating the waist, without forgetting the brand’s loyal clients, who come to Paule Ka for its simple evening wear. “The idea of the collection was a woman going down to the South of France,” Simoens said. This is communicated through the use of colour, print and the fabrics used. The ensemble featured is a two-piece suit, the blazer is cropped paired with a Capri trouser in a hue like Resene Moby.
GIVENCHY Resene Merino
trade talks
7 steps to cultivate mental wellness in fashion
As mental health resources across the country are set to receive an unprecedented boost in government funding, fashion business and industry leaders have an important role in supporting the mental health of their workforce. Executive health specialist and founder of The Resilience Institute Dr Sven Hansen has developed some steps that will help people managers understand and support mental health in the often fraught business of fashion. All jobs come with certain pressures but few industries deal with workers as impressionable as many who choose to work in fashion. Yours is an industry, perceived at least, to be full of colour, style, glamour and fun. Balance this with a fast-paced environment that’s heavily focused on helping people look good, it’s not surprising that some will find the pressure to conform to looks-based ideals all too consuming.
Nationally, we know nearly half of our population will suffer from a mental illness at some stage during their lives. As much as someone suffering might try to put on a brave face at work or even use their workplace as an escape, there’s no doubt mental illness is present in many Kiwi businesses, in fashion or otherwise. Mental illness, diagnosed or not, is the leading cause of illness globally. Often it’s the culprit behind employees feeling stressed, anxious, unhappy and inattentive – and it’s costing businesses big money. It is the biggest risk to safety, the primary cause of suffering, and the main cause for lost productivity in the workplace.
As the spotlight on wellbeing shines steadily brighter, workplaces are waking up to the fact that they are not immune. But, here’s the thing, wellbeing initiatives, be it discounted gym memberships or flexible working hours, while well-intentioned, aren’t always enough. Mental health runs deep and it’s up to you as leaders to understand, lead and support solutions if you genuinely want to reduce suffering and improve productivity in your workplace. In fact, when leadership is informed and committed the impact is two to three times greater. I have compiled these researched-based steps to help you have better conversations about mental health and promote mental wellbeing in the workplace:
Understand where mental illness comes from Genes, early environment, adverse events and our personal behaviours all contribute in complex ways. We have much to learn but destructive childhood experiences, more than two hours a day on social media, disturbed sleep and increased temperature are thought to be causative. Heat, weather events and human conflict increase the risk of violence, anxiety, depression and PTSD. Anxious parenting, excess sensitivity, reduced activity, limited outdoor time and isolation are correlated. Learning the practices of resilience is definitely protective and part of recovery. Recognise distress as a normal part of dealing with adversity Our fast-paced, digital lives assail us with small, continuous threats and has reduced the time we have to recover, sleep and reconnect with loved ones. Some people respond to these threats with sadness as they feel worn down, dominated, isolated or abused. Some experience fear. Others get angry as they flail against difficulty. While these reactions are normal, some people can get stuck in unpleasant emotions until they dominate their being. Sadness becomes depression. Fear becomes anxiety. Anger becomes hostility. If you notice an employee in distress, where their reactions become inappropriate to the context, understand that this could be mental illness. It is a good idea to establish a ‘Mental health first aid’ process for your organisation that outlines how to considerately approach and support employees who could be suffering. Know that recovery is possible and treatment is effective Recovery, over time, is the normal outcome. Even in the case of schizophrenia and bipolar disorder, sensible life management and treatment is effective. In depression, anxiety and hostility, firm and caring support, lifestyle improvement, counselling, meditation, positivity and thinking skills can be curative. Medication should not be the default treatment. Learn ways to counter anxiety and depression Signs of fear for those with anxiety - and, in fact, anyone - can be countered with a calm response. Suggest writing fears down in order to challenge them. Moving about, gentle music, relaxing our muscles, slowing breathing and seeking safe, reassuring spaces - particularly outside with fresh air and nature - all help.
Learn the practical steps of rapid bounce Mastering bounce is the key to resilience, both sustaining optimal life and growing from adversity (post-traumatic growth). Encourage the practice of specific practical actions that can reverse the downward spiral; seeking help, renewing, connecting, refreshing, simplifying. Emphasise the importance of self-care Taking good care of your body is proven to treat mental illness. A healthy body is the core of a good life, prevention, resilience and recovery. Sleeping well, eating well - less sugar, more vegetables and more Mediterranean - experiencing nature and sunshine most days, stretching every morning, and slowed breathing and relaxation for at least eight minutes per day are encouraged. Think about ways in which your business can support self care. It could be establishing mandatory email-free hours between 7pm and 7am, providing free fruit in shared spaces or creating a quiet ‘time out’ space in the workplace. Be kind and considerate to others Seek joy and fulfilment by doing good things for others. It helps you as much or more than those you help. Start by being kind to yourself. Many of us are self-critical and hard on ourselves. Be gentle on yourself. Remember your goodness. Take time to enjoy and celebrate. To get started, sit quietly breathing slowly. As you inhale bring kindness inward. As you exhale let your goodness radiate out. Use your altruism to get your organisation involved in a charity or helping someone in need. Even sitting quietly and radiating out peace, love and joy to everyone you can think of has a powerful positive on every aspect of wellbeing – even the structure and function of your brain.
BY DR SVEN HANSEN EXECUTIVE HEALTH SPECIALIST, FOUNDER OF THE RESILIENCE INSTITUTE
18 I July 2019
beauty spot
Hello Tanya
TANYA BARLOW
Though she studied Screen and Media at university, after two years as a freelance video editor Tanya Barlow moved to London to retrain as a make-up artist.
She now operates a ‘one stop shop’ from her home salon in Mount Eden, Auckland, as well as travelling for commercial work. Since starting her brand Hello Tanya in 2009, she’s gained a reputation as a reliable and creative beautician. “I often joke about being a sensitive artist, but I think it’s a huge strength of mine,” Barlow told Apparel Magazine. “When it comes to both make-up and nails, ultimately it’s about making a person feel like the best version of themselves.” Perhaps it’s telling that Barlow’s first encounter with make-up was more than just a timid blusher experiment. “During a goth phase in high school, I stole my mother’s Dior black eyeliner pencil and rocked some smudgy eyes for a solid year.” A scroll through Barlow’s Instagram page reveals an extensive portfolio of delicate, detailed nail art (including a rather fetching nail-art portrait of actor Cillian Murphy), as well as sophisticated vintage-tinged hair and make-up pieces. “Last year I was flown to Fiji for editorials by Mindfood Style. It was the first time I’d been flown overseas for a shoot. Incredibly hard work, but I’m so proud of what we achieved.” Barlow’s catalogue of work also includes an Armani perfume campaign in 2012, feature film The Breaker Upperers, and six intricate nail pieces for Mindfood’s ten-year anniversary issue. For the last few seasons, she’s also worked as a make-up artist on Dancing with the Stars. “I work incredibly well under pressure. I bring a sense of ease, confidence, and fun when I’m on set.” Her artistic and professional approach has won her a loyal and passionate client base, and it’s no accident. “I care a lot, all the time, about pretty much everything. When it comes to nails, I prioritise nail health for sure. I keep updated with techniques and products that would best suit the client’s needs, without ever damaging the natural nail.” Barlow offers a plethora of services, combining hair, make-up, and nail art. “I’m a big believer in spending a lot of time on prep, whether it’s skin prep or nail prep, as it will always make a difference,” she said. “Helping people express themselves, I like to think of every appointment as a collaboration.”
20 I July 2019
When it comes to both make-up and nails, ultimately it’s about making a person feel like the best version of themselves.
PHOTO: FRANCES CARTER STYLING: CHERRY KIM MAKE UP : RICHARD SYMONS HAIR & NAILS : TANYA BARLOW MODEL : CRYSTAL @ N MANAGEMENT
FIRST IMAGE: BLACK MAGAZINE PHOTO: KEN CUN XAO STYLING: IMOGEN WILSON HAIR & MAKE UP: TANYA BARLOW MODEL: ELLA @ THE OTHERS
FOR MORE INFORMATION EMAIL MAIL@HELLOTANYA.NET OR VISIT WWW.HELLOTANYA.NET OR @HELLOTANYA
designer showcase
2019 MLT Hokonui Fashion Design Awards
MY CITY
22 I July 2019
EMMA COOK
DONNA DINSDALE
DEBBIE SMITH
COURTNEY CANSDALE
ABBY CLAYTON
VISESIO LOUIS THOMSEN
HELEN MARSHALL
GEMMA SIMS
VIV TAMBLYN
DONNA DINSDALE
24 I July 2019
GEMMA SIMS
ETHAN BLAIR ALLCHURCH
AMELIA PARKER
ABBY CLAYTON
CHANEL MOREY
DONNA DINSDALE
DEBBIE SMITH
RACHEL MACNAB
LUCY HILL
HELEN MARSHALL
Open Section HOKONUI HERITAGE PRECINCT
PERONI OPEN NIGHTLIFE SECTION
THE FABRIC STORE – BEST USE OF FABRIC AWARD
OPEN AVANT GARDE AWARD
WINNER LUCY HILL
WINNER EMMA COOK
WINNER RACHEL MACNAB
RUNNER UP JERAHMIE PADILLA
RUNNER UP CAREN MACKAY
HIGHLY COMMENDED UNA ADAMS
HIGHLY COMMENDED ALICE PARSONS
THE MERINO STORY - BEST USE OF WOOL AWARD WINNER ETHAN BLAIR ALLCHURCH - RUSH
APPAREL MAGAZINE RECYCLED OPEN SECTION CARVIN STREETWEAR OPEN STREETWEAR AWARD
WINNER DEBBIE SMITH
GIRL NEXT DOOR FASHION –
WINNER VIV TAMBLYN
RUNNER UP JENNY HASLER-JACOBS
GARMENT WITH THE MOST COMMERCIAL POTENTIAL
RUNNER UP SANDRA MULQUEEN
HIGHLY COMMENDED EMMA COOK
WINNER COURTNEY CANSDALE
FMG/ FARMLANDS OPEN MENSWEAR SECTION
GORE DISTRICT COUNCIL AUAHA AWARD
NETSPEED BROADBAND OPEN COLLECTIONS AWARD
WINNER DONNA DINSDALE
WINNER VISESIO LOUIS THOMSEN
WINNER MY CITY/ WUHAN POLYTECHNIC
RUNNER UP COURTNEY CANSDALE
RUNNER UP EDEN ELLMORE
HIGHLY COMMENDED TRACEY SMITH
HIGHLY COMENDED GRACE HUGHSON
POLYTECHNIC
HEATHER PATERSON QSM MEMORIAL TROPHY BEST SOUTHLAND DESIGNER
HIGHLY COMMENDED MAGNIFICENT/ WUHAN OPEN MERIT AWARDS X16
WINNER VIV TAMBLYN
AVANT GARDE ETHAN BLAIR ALLCHURCH-RUSH MITCHELL MACKERSY LAWYERS
STREETWEAR MADISON FREEMAN
SOUTHERN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
OPEN NATURAL FIBRE AWARD
COLLECTIONS NATASHA SENIOR
YOUNG DESIGNER AWARD
WINNER HELEN MARSHALL
COLLECTIONS ECLIPSE, WUHAN POLYTECHNIC
WINNER LUCY HILL
RUNNER UP MIKAYLA HAMMOND
NATURAL FIBRES VIV TAMBLYN
HIGHLY COMMENDED VISESIO LOUIS THOMSEN
NIGHTLIFE MOLLY PICKAVANCE
MATAURA LICENSING TRUST AWARD OF EXCELLENCE
NIGHTLIFE VICKI TAYLOR -BLAIR
WINNER DONNA DINSDALE FROM TAURANGA
RECYCLED TRACEY MARSHALL
LUCY HILL
MY CITY
VIV TAMBLYN
RECYCLED KATIE MANGAI
Schools Section AMORE NATURAL FIBRES
MACCA LODGE RECYCLED
SCHOOL MERIT CERTIFICATES
WINNER GEMMA SIMS
WINNER ABBY CLAYTON
STREETWEAR LUKE STONEHOUSE
RUNNER UP LUCY GIRVAN
RUNNER UP GEORGE PARK
STREETWEAR SUMMER PHILLIPS
HIGHLY COMMENDED TARRYN HUTCHINS
HIGHLY COMMENDED JESS LONG
RECYCLED MIKAELA YUNG NATURAL FIBRES NEISHYN MARSTERS
REGIONAL FORD NIGHTLIFE
COLLECTIVE DESIGN STREETWEAR
NATURAL FIBRES AMELIA BRASH
WINNER AMELIA PARKER
WINNER CHANEL MOREY
NIGHTLIFE KATE SMAILL
RUNNER UP JADE HARRISON
RUNNER UP ANNA HARCUS
HIGHLY COMMENDED SOPHIE WHYTE
HIGHLY COMMENDED RUBY KYLE
SCHOOL AWARD OF EXCELLENCE ABBY CLAYTON FROM BAYFIELD HIGH SCHOOL IN DUNEDIN
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Fashion retailers inside plan to shake up the homeware industry
edited
The homeware market is now worth $226m in the US, and it’s one that fashion-first retailers are starting to take a hearty slice of. Brands are now selling a lifestyle that stretches far beyond clothes and encompasses our living spaces. Fashion retailers want to become a one-stop shop for customers and are utilising an existing customer-base to sell homeware successfully. Last year, H&M expanded its modest range of candles, ceramics and cushion covers into Scandiperfect furniture and lighting, and opened its first interiors-only concept store in April 2019. Around the same time Zara announced plans to incorporate the currently-separate Zara Home into its stores, and stock homeware goods on the Zara website by 2020. In January 2019, ASOS released their first homeware collection – ASOS Supply – which features on-trend pieces for those on a budget. And it’s not just mass-market retailers who are getting in on interiors, luxury brands are too. In 2017 Gucci launched Gucci Décor, where customers can splurge on a $3,000 embroidered tiger chair. Fashion retailers aren’t just moving into the homeware sector, they are disrupting it. Fashion’s move on homewares has a lot to do with ‘inspo’ culture. The same people that are posting #OOTDs on Instagram, are now showing their followers the print they purchased or that tortoiseshell vase they bought at the farmer’s market. The popular hashtag #homeinspo has been used over 3.6 million times. Better connectivity is blurring the lines between where style stops and starts – and it isn’t only when you walk in the door. These days, a house is an
extension of people’s style and if the whole world is going to see it, it better look good. “Like fashion, interiors are a way to express personality and style,” Camilla Henriksson, head of marketing and communication at H&M Home, told Drapers.
RETAILERS ARE BECOMING A ONE-STOP SHOP FOR CUSTOMERS Moving into other sectors also provides a good opportunity to strengthen brand awareness. By tapping the homeware market, H&M Home has the potential to add a legion of homeware fanatics to their existing customer base. In 2018, H&M predicted sales to increase by at least 25 percent per year, reaching over 50 billion Swedish krona ($6.2 billion) by 2022. And it’s an outlook that is mimicked by dozens of other retailers that have moved into homeware. The success of these expansions comes from the brands’ well-established customer bases.
WHO ARE MASS-MARKET HOMEWARE RETAILERS TARGETING? The young demographic of their customers is also important when considering why their fashionforward, well-priced homeware is being so wellreceived. According to Mintel, ‘Generation Rent’ aren’t looking to buy furniture or carpets for a forever home – most rentals come furnished. Instead, they want small, affordable touches to personalise their space such as lighting, wall hangings, rugs and cushions. They need to be purse-friendly, stylish enough for Instagram quick-wins, and easily manoeuvrable for the next move.
SO, HOW ARE CORE HOMEWARE RETAILERS KEEPING UP? It goes both ways. Core homeware retailers are releasing the potential of having a fashionable influence on board, and the enormous market they can tap into with collaborations. In fact, Habitat teamed up with Shrimps to release a range of soft furnishings featuring the brand’s signature doodles. Similarly, IKEA teamed with Off White to create a homeware line that reads like pieces
26 I July 2019
from a contemporary art exhibition. The collection doesn’t officially drop until November, but rugs bought in pre-sale pops are already being resold online for thousands.
TOP TAKEAWAY The growth of interiors and lifestyle culture on social media, a customer base of hard-on-cash renters, and the edge of trend-focused ranges, has allowed fashion retailers to enter the homeware market with a bang. Only time will tell if it will go the other way. Would you collab with IKEA to launch a range of apparel to go alongside homeware? Who wouldn’t buy an IKEA cashmere jumper?
fashionable films
Spider-Man: Far From Home Everyone’s favourite web-slinging superhero is back on the big screen – only this time, he’s in Europe. Reeling in the wake of the events of Avengers: Endgame, Peter Parker (Tom Holland) has shun the limelight and opted to return to normal teenage life, embarking on a trip around Europe with his friends. Unfortunately, Parker soon learns that you don’t choose the superhero life – it chooses you. Costume designer Anna B. Sheppard had plenty of opportunity to innovate on the classic Spider-Man outfit. As well as the iconic red and blue costume from 2017’s Spider-Man: Homecoming, Parker dons the Tony Stark-designed Iron Spider suit that debuted in Avengers: Infinity War. New to the line-up is a jet-black ‘stealth mode’ suit to protect Spider-Man’s anonymity, as well as a red and black suit that Parker designs himself, complete with ‘web wings’ inspired by one of the original SpiderMan artists, Steve Ditko. Elsewhere, magicwielding
superhuman Mysterio (Jake Gyllenhaal) dons a futuristic suit of armour complete with neon lighting. Mysterio’s long purple cape was hand-made by Sheppard, stitching together blue and red thread to give it depth, instead of just dying a single piece of fabric. The cape also incorporated lighting elements, which Sheppard said Gyllenhaal occasionally sat on by mistake. “But when you are in this mood of playing this hero, you don’t think what you’re sitting on,” Sheppard joked, “So he’s forgiven.”
Midsommar From the director of Hereditary, Ari Aster, comes this new mind-bending horror exploring the breakdown of a relationship amidst a nightmarish summer solstice celebration. After a traumatic family incident, Dani (Florence Pugh) travels with her boyfriend Christian (Jack Reynor) and his friends to Sweden, where they have been invited to attend a midsummer celebration at Swedish friend Pelle’s ancestral commune. The festival only happens once every 90 years, so the Americans are keen to get a glimpse of a unique part of Swedish culture. But things soon take a turn for the worse as Dani and her companions descend into a world of
2040 Aussie filmmaker Damon Gameau (That Sugar Film) is, like many of us, concerned about the direction the planet is heading. In this refreshingly optimistic documentary, as sea levels rise and temperatures soar, he sets out to discover potential solutions to the problems of climate change and a growing population, and paint a picture of how the world might look in a couple of decades if we embraced these solutions today. In an idiosyncratic twist, however, Gameau frequently transitions into dramatised ‘preenactments’ of the world of 2040. Gameau’s
28 I July 2019
2040 is populated with extras clad in brandless, functional clothes that wouldn’t look out of place in a branch of Uniqlo or Muji. A make-up department headed by Mia Kate Russell subtly but convincingly ages Gameau and his wife Zoë a couple of decades, and production designers Carrie Kennedy and Luke Bubb present a sleek, sophisticated future in calm palette tones. It’s a future of flexible tablet computers and compostable coffee cups; it’s a little bit Black Mirror at times, but there’s no denying the elegant appeal of this streamlined future.
white-clad, drug-induced occultism. Costume designer Andrea Flesch crafted hundreds of hand-embroidered runes into the Swede’s garments of white flowing fabrics. Through historic research, Flesch encoded colours and patterns into the costumes of the characters, incorporating elements from cultures around the world. “First the idea was to go to Sweden, but then I searched a little bit and we found they don’t really have these costumes and materials anymore,” Flesch explained. “So I started to search the whole world, what are the similarities in Swedish folk and other cultures, and I found a lot.”
Crawl
During a Florida hurricane, Haley (Kayla Scodelario) heads home to track down her father Dave (Barry Pepper), who is not responding to phone calls. Upon arriving at her father’s house, Haley finds the family dog, Sugar, unattended. Exploring the property, Haley finds her father unconscious and wounded in the cramped basement, and he’s not alone – a giant alligator is keeping him company in the claustrophobic crawlspace. One that seems intent on preventing Haley or her dad from escaping. It’s telling that, while Crawl’s costume department had just one crew member, Serbian designer Momirka Bailovic, the movie’s make-up team consisted of nine individuals. That’s because as the storm rages through Florida and the basement fills up with water, Haley and Dave’s situation goes from bad to worse – and so does their appearance. Their steady deterioration is convincingly rendered as their reptilian captors nip away at them, and injuries are realistically and gruesomely portrayed by the special effects team.
Apollo 11 This retrospective documentary marks 50 years since Neil Armstrong uttered those famous words on the surface of the Moon: “Does my head look big in this?” The NASA Moon landings, and the space race that led to them, are not usually remembered for their contribution to fashion, but closer inspection reveals that Apollo 11’s adventure to the Moon and back was far more than just a technological miracle. The iconography of the early Space Age has
seeped into all aspects of culture, and fashion is no exception. From NASA denim jackets to cyberpunk rave costumes, space has been one of the fashion world’s recurrent motifs ever since man first set foot on the Moon. This extraordinary documentary gives viewers a glimpse back in time to where all that began. An enthralling celebration of an incredible moment in history. Come for the spacesuits, stay for the adventure.
Once Upon A Time in Hollywood Quentin Tarantino’s latest release features a starstudded cast, including Leonardo DiCaprio, Brad Pitt, Margot Robbie, Al Pacino, and Dakota Fanning. Set in 1969 Los Angeles, the film follows the life of alcoholic actor Rick Dalton played by DiCaprio, who after a failed attempt to transition from TV to the big screen is left struggling for work in low-budget Westerns. His stunt double and best friend Cliff Booth
played by Pitt, however, seems happy and satisfied despite living in a derelict trailer next to a drive-in. As is Tarantino’s oeuvre, the characters are larger than life, with costumes to boot. Designer Arianne Phillips (Kingsman, Walk the Line) dressed the cast in suitably ‘60s garb, with DiCaprio spending much of his time onscreen in a wonderfully retro yellow turtleneck. Pitt, who is seemingly incapable of looking uncool, dons a denim jacket and aviator shades. This is Tarantino at his stylised best – expect guns, a jukebox soundtrack, and plenty of violence.
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