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AUGUST 2020 I VOL 53 I NO 8
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editor ' s note
fashionable reads The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir
I WEAR MINE FOR YOU. WILL YOU WEAR YOURS FOR ME? It is crucial for brands and SME's to react like a speedboat, not the Titanic. With COVID-19 representing a massive iceberg, what are you doing to avoid sinking? I highly recommend cutting your cloth and killing your darlings. While for many seasons you may have done ‘x’, it’s now time to do ‘y’. Don't second guess yourself, research and release! Time is not on your side. If you haven’t already gotten on the bandwagon to make masks, then well, there's no easy way to say this "you're nuts". While it seems like everyone is doing it, it’s the fries-with-that mentality that your loyal customers want. I spoke to a designer the other day, who said: “Really? Masks? Come on, everyone is doing it.” I replied to give it a go and what do you know? That designer sold 100 on Instagram within the first hour. While it can in no way replace doing an entire collection or capsule, it sure can help with beefing out orders while you pivot your business. This new normal is going to be around for the next few years and we may never get back to "how it was". New-season off-cuts, hello masks! Would you like a matching mask with that? Yes! Customers want it, customers are buying it. Speaking of which, make sure you research your mask pattern before selling them. There are a handful of really good New Zealand made mask designs, make sure you look at what works across a range of face types. Elastic, ribbon, Velcro, sewn-in filters, hand wash only, third party filter insert, sizes for men, women and children. It is important to try your mask pattern on a variety of face shapes and sizes as one size does NOT fit all. Also, if you start getting above a $60 price point, there better be a good reason – I'd want socks with that! Aside from masks, if you have a retail offering you must have a smoking hot omnichannel, one that seeks to provide customers with a seamless shopping experience, whether they're shopping online from a desktop or
CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM
mobile device, by telephone, or in a brick-and-mortar store. If you are lagging in the e-commerce field then get with the programme, selling online is a must-have in COVID-19 times, not a will do in the future. Keeping consumer's data secure is also a trap waiting to happen for the unwary. Being up to date with cybersecurity threats is now top of mind with hacking threats of sites happening daily. Lastly, we want to hear from you. How have you pivoted your business? How have you coped with the lockdowns? What do you want to tell the Government about the industry and the help that is needed? Drop me a line, let's talk.
Peter Mitchell Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Janet Guan - janet@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento Debby Wei
2 I August 2020
ON THE COVER MODEL: Shannon Cook from RPD Models MAKE UP: Chanelle Van T Veen STYLIST: Blair Wheeler PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell ISSN 1171-2287
Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 304 0142 Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2020 NZ Apparel Magazine.
by André Leon Talley During André Leon Talley’s first job, alongside Andy Warhol, at Interview, he propelled to become the bureau chief of Women’s Wear Daily whilst befriending fashion’s most important designers. Eventually, he took on the creative director role at Vogue and became the most influential man in fashion. The Chiffon Trenches offers a candid look into the last fifty years of fashion. This is an engaging memoir that tells a raw and honest story of how André Leon Talley not only survived the brutal fashion landscape but thrived, despite racism, illicit rumours and all the other challenges of the notoriously cut-throat industry.
Louis Vuitton: The Birth of Modern Luxury Updated Edition
by Paul-Gerald Pasols and Pierre Leonforte When this book was first published in 2004, it was the first to describe the dramatic rise of the world’s finest luxury company. This updated edition has the same full access to the company archives and demonstrates Louis Vuitton’s passion for fine design. With archival art, product designs, and cutting-edge advertising all throughout. This new edition has fresh information on subjects such as designs for ready-to-wear clothing, shoes, jewellery and even automobiles and an additional 20 pages of updated text, recent history, and photographs.
Kimono: The Art and Evolution of Japanese Fashion
by Anna Jackson The Khalili Kimono Collection was carefully photographed for this book. It consists of more than two hundred garments and spans almost three hundred years of Japanese textile artistry. The Kimono often displays an enormous range of patterns and motifs, executed with a complex combination of weaving, dyeing, and embroidery techniques. The Khalil Kimono Collection includes formal, semiformal, and informal kimonos and undergarments and jackets worn by women, men and children. From sophisticated garments of the imperial court to the bold and dazzling kimonos of the Showa period.
Little Book Of Prada
by Laia Farran Graves The Little Book of Prada is a pocketsized and beautifully illustrated story of the luxury fashion brand, Prada. Elegance and luxury, technologically advanced fabrics and originality of designs are some of the few things we think about when talking about the brand. Laia Farran Graves documents the history and heritage of the brand, from the company’s origins as a leather-goods manufacturer to the global fashion empire that they are today. Explore the growth and explorations of the brand through gorgeous imagery and fashion photographs.
10 PIECES -COLLECTIONby
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fast five
CALLING ALL EMERGING DESIGNERS!
NZ LABEL SELLS 50 LIMITED-EDITION FACE MASKS PER HOUR A New Zealand fashion label which was only established last week has sold out of its limited-edition face masks and has orders from the U.S and the U.K. By Mischo, founded by Ayla Bligh, was created to provide herself and five other women in the New Zealand fashion industry who have been recently made redundant due to COVID-19, work. The label now sells up to 50 orders an hour for their limited-edition face masks. “I reached out to others in the fashion industry via trade community groups and was able to connect with a number of seamstresses who were looking for additional work as the rest of the industry has been hard hit,” said Bligh. “Like most people, I was shocked to hear on the news that 90 percent of the 11,000 redundancies in New Zealand due to COVID affected women. So from the start, I wanted By Mishco to be about empowering
women who, like me, had lost their jobs.” By Mischo has face masks that are developed accompanied with accessories to help reduce the stigma of wearing a mask. “The ethos behind the label has been to offer a product which is both fun and fashionable, and we are helping to do this through selling accessories like hair scrunchies which match the masks - making wearing them a bit more lighthearted.” Bligh's knowledge of the fashion industry has allowed her to understand the different materials she can work with - thus, choosing the most effective materials for face masks. “I have seen a number of people using quilters cotton which is a hundred percent cotton, which can be a bit stiff and uncomfortable to wear against your skin. This is the reason we went with a cotton-linen blend which is both soft and functional for the consumer.”
Project Fashion Aotearoa are calling aspiring fashion designers from Kaitaia to Bluff to submit applications now in their emerging designer programme. For four years the organisation has run the initiative with a focus on Wellington designers. Now, after six fabulous showcases and 18 designers being mentored into careers in the fashion industry, it was time to open the opportunity up to the rest of Aotearoa. Kate Spencer, the founder of Project Fashion Aotearoa, created the programme as she saw a need for emerging local designers to be given a platform to take their work to the next level. The programme looks for designers who create their work
from scratch, pattern-make, sew and can demonstrate that they have a clear vision for their own label. A panel of industry judges will shortlist eight designers to take part in the Project Fashion Aotearoa live awards show. This will be hosted at Wellington’s prestigious Public Trust Hall with each designer showcasing their designs to an audience of industry personnel. The winner will take home a prize of $3000 to go towards the creation of their label. Project Fashion Aotearoa is forging ahead despite the current climate, as now more than ever it is crucial to give support, inspiration and working tools to grow New Zealand's fashion talent.
TAKAPUNA BEACH BUSINESS ASSOCIATION ENCOURAGES LOCAL SHOPPING The Takapuna Beach Business Association (TBBA) has released Paymark data that shows that the retail spend in the North Shore metropolitan centre fell by 84.9 percent in the week ending 23rd August 2020, in comparison to the same week, last year. “We always knew Level 3 would be bad, but 85 percent is crippling for business. In fact, it's not far off the 97 percent drop in trade we experienced during Level 4 in April. Level 2 can't come soon enough, with our retailers and hospitality operators set to welcome everyone with open arms,” said Terence Harpur, TBBA Chief Executive. Takapuna's latest Marketview weekly report shows spending in Takapuna on Food and Liquor and Pharmacies has decreased by 43.7 percent, hospitality and accommodation by 86 percent, clothing, footwear and department
stores by 95.1 percent. “We strongly encourage Aucklanders to shop local from Monday and support retailers who have done it tough in the latest lockdown.” Another concern is that, although Auckland is back in Level 2, many offices are encouraged to work from home if it is still possible. Harpur hopes offices reconsider having their staff back in the office. “We're now calling on office-based businesses to think about the impact keeping staff home has on town centres like ours. Working from home really hits our shops, restaurants, and personal services. We need everyone to come back to the office.” Seeing locals, visitors and employees returning about to town centres will be encouraging for business owners. “We really appreciate everyone's support in advance.”
HELPING TO REIGNITE SMALL BUSINESSES
NEW ERA VIRTUAL FASHION WEEK California's 1st New Era Virtual Fashion Week will be presented by the awardwinning Fashion Community Week this September 24th through to the 27th. It is the first of its kind in California, that will present a global fashion conference. Two days of runway shows, followed by a shopping event exhibiting collections that are not yet in the marketplace. All events will be live and will be accessible through multiple global platforms. The opening day will commence with a Worldwide Fashion-tech conference, led by founders of fashion startups. The second day is about ‘California Dreaming’ with a presentation of ready to wear collections exhibited on this day. The third day is about ‘Walking into the future’. This day represents a futuristic ambience exhibiting eclectic
international designs on the runway. The final day is an opportunity to shop from collections that are not yet available in the market. Started in 2014, Fashion Community Week has proudly represented and launched fashion designers and beauty talents from over 50 countries covering six continents. The platform offers support and opportunities for emerging and underrepresented talents in the industry. Fashion Community Week has currently re-designed its program offerings and re-launched as an Online Fashion Incubator to support fashion designers globally. A program designed to cope with the effects of the pandemic, by helping emerging designers to stay in business while staying connected to the fashion industry community.
Mastercard has announced a 'Getting Back to Small Business' support package to help reignite small business growth in New Zealand. Mastercard will offer local SME's access to a range of digital resources, tools and services to help them navigate and adapt to the new demands of e-commerce. 85 percent of SME's in New Zealand are suffering a decline in revenue as a result of the pandemic. Getting Back to Small Business will offer roughly 500,000 SME's access to approximately $5,400 worth of tools and services each, along with various educational resources that will help them go digital between now until early 2021. Small businesses are the backbone of the New Zealand economy. “Currently, many lack the technical support and know-how
to take their business online and often don't have access to the same networks and resources as their larger counterparts. By removing some barriers, Mastercard can help them build new and sustainable revenue streams, setting local small businesses up for success and enabling them to emerge stronger on the other side of this crisis,” said Ruth Rivere, Country Manager of Mastercard New Zealand. Areas that the Getting Back to Small Business will tackle: Arming small businesses with the knowledge to operate in a new, more digitally orientated world. Helping small businesses tackle new challenges in the digital domain. Enabling small businesses to stay secure online. Empowering small businesses to take control of their cyber health.
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trade talks
WHY CHOOSE WHITECLIFFE FASHION DESIGN? Fashion is fast to react to global socio-economic and cultural events and represents contemporary concerns of the designer and wearer, as well as providing a dialogue between the past and present. Sustainability is part of an expanding branch within the fashion industry that focuses on social responsibility and environmental impact, the use of sustainable and organic materials, the disuse of harmful chemicals and dyes, and a reduction of textile waste. The Whitecliffe Fashion Design Department has a strong focus on sustainability within the New Zealand and international fashion industry. Students are encouraged to embrace innovative and sustainable fashion practices throughout their studies. The practices that the Whitecliffe pathway focus on encourage students to challenge the traditional boundaries of fashion, elevating the craft of making and fostering creativity to develop high levels of experimentation and technical skills and an understanding of fashion's environmental and social impact.
During the day-to-day in the department, students are involved in Industry-targeted workshops including Pattern Drafting and Garment Construction, Design and Concept Development, Fabric Manipulation, Tailoring, and Entrepreneurship. Studio Practice is complemented by courses in Fashion and Sustainability, Fashion History and Theory, Fashion Illustration, Illustrator for Fashion, and Natural Dyeing. Classes are small and provide a nurturing environment with a strong focus on individual students and fostering their unique vision. The department itself has built a strong reputation for nurturing some of the top young fashion designer to come out of New Zealand – to name just a few, Maggie Hewitt of Maggie Marylin, Madeleine Harman and Jessica Grubiša of Harman Grubiša, as well as
Project Runway New Zealand winner Benjamin Alexander. Students and graduates win national and international awards and are supported and encouraged to enter competitions. Lecturers and tutors foster original thinking and individual design aesthetics. The educators at Whitecliffe are all practicing designers and artists who provide an inspirational and professional learning environment. Students learn design research, concept development, fashion history, theory and illustration, and contemporary sustainable fashion practices to create innovative collections that reflect re-thinking and re-evaluating of fashion for a sustainable future. Whitecliffe offers modern industrial equipment in a spacious studio with individual study spaces in Year Three and BFA Honours.
Classes are small and provide a nurturing environment with a strong focus on individual students and fostering their unique vision.
CAREER OPPORTUNITIES AFTER THE WHITECLIFFE FASHION DESIGN BFA: ■ Fashion Designer
■ Fashion Stylist
■ Sustainability Consultant
■ Fashion Blogger
■ Workroom Assistant
■ Wardrobe Assistant
■ Patternmaker
■ Visual Merchandiser
■ Sample Machinist
■ Fashion Public Relations
■ Production
■ Fashion Marketing
■ Buyer
■ Fabric Range Designer
■ Merchandiser
■ Fashion Journalism For more information on studying fashion design at Whitecliffe, visit www.whitecliffe.ac.nz
6 I August 2020
Order now at jerome@notforyouclothing.com
Made in New Zealand
TEXTTILES
journey of a garment
TERRY APPAREL Terry Apparel was established by John Tudehope in 1988 and is now owned by his daughter and son-in-law Louise and Gethin Sladen since 2012.
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erry Apparel offers a range of sewing threads for every application, ranging from garment to upholstery, sails, bag closing, embroidery and much more. At the beginning of Sladen’s Terry Apparel journey, he was amazed at the variety of different threads and sewing machine needles that were available, all which had their own unique qualities. Fast forward to today, Terry Apparel is proud to represent brands from all over the world such as Groz-Beckert for their needles, Venus Threads, Gunzetal, Elevate Textiles, Gunold GmBH, Gutermann and Faswell. Terry Apparel also offers a range of apparel accessories such as hook and loops from Faswell, scissors from Klein Cutlery and tagging guns and pins. Terry Apparel continues to look for opportunities to grow, and this is evident in the different operations that they have expanded into since 2012. The challenges within the industry at the moment according to Sladen is the fact that the prices of raw materials are continuing to increase
along with freight costs and sewing machinists. COVID-19 has obviously been an obstacle for all, the apparel industry included. However, the power of online retail has helped immensely. Terry Apparel has put a few of their products online, so materials are accessible for homesewers. Terry Apparel’s aim is to help every customer find the perfect way to join their products. Keeping the customer at the forefront of their business decisions has always been important, thus, they continue to source and increase their colour range as finding the right colours to match industry trends is incredibly important for the fashion industry. Terry Apparel are also committed to making the industry more sustainable. For instance, they focus on new sustainable threads and high-tech threads that ensure greater durability. The team at Terry Apparel are always on the lookout for innovations that will help us transition to a more sustainable apparel industry. “We believe in both the efficiency and long-term return of a responsible,
sustainable growth strategy that is based on innovation,” noted Sladen. Terry Apparel is proud to be a family-owned business that helps local customers trade. The goal is to continue to grow the apparel industry within New Zealand. “Doing our part to support the good health of our Kiwi Economy is important to us both commercially but also personally. If our industry grows, our community fares better, it’s that simple.” Since day one, Terry Apparel has focused on never cutting corners on quality for the sake of making a few extra pennies. The company has built great relationships over the years with both suppliers and customers. This year has been challenging for many small, and bigger, businesses, and now more than ever, reliable business partners are key. Terry Apparel is here to help and assist the industry wherever they can, with an even larger focus on building strong relationships with each individual client. For more information visit www. terryapparel.co.nz or email apparel@terrys.co.nz.
We believe in both the efficiency and long-term return of a responsible, sustainable growth strategy that is based on innovation.
8 I August 2020
PATTERN MAKING
THE PATTERN TABLE The Pattern Table is a well-known pattern making and garment manufacturing company in the heart of Auckland with fashion designer Rachel Mills powering the business. Mills took over The Pattern Table last year. For the months prior to her takeover, her personal client list was growing and growing, thus, the scaling of her services was only natural. Prior to The Pattern Table, Mills had worked for five years for Karen Walker at the beginning of her fashion career. In the Karen Walker sampling room, she was able to work with a multi-talented team and she knew she wanted to enter back into a similar collaborative workspace, therefore, she decided to make her own. The Pattern Table consists of a small and highly efficient team of
seven, some of whom have worked at the company for over 20 years. With two full-time machinists as well as one part-timer, Mills is able to ramp up production without compromising on the commitment to quality that she is renowned for. “In the past, the business had more of a focus on sportswear and uniforms. I want to shift this more towards servicing the fashion industry, as this is where my fulfilment and contacts come from,” Mills explained. The Pattern Table will focus on sampling, the process Mills has the most hands-on experience with. “This is where I want to focus because there will always be a demand for local sampling.” For more information email info@thepatterntable.com or call 09 630 5071.
PATTERN POTENTIALS
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ue Bailey has had her own pattern making business for 19 years, and prior to that, she worked in the apparel trade for 17 years. Pattern Potentials is a patternmaking, grading and marker making service to the apparel industry. With extensive industry knowledge and skills, the Pattern Potentials team are determined to create quality, well-fitting patterns from sampling through to production. The company’s clientele sees the length of the country, developing childrenswear through to highend men’s and women’s fashion, sportswear, uniforms and workwear. Based in the Waikato, Pattern Potentials’ main customer base are New Zealand designers. Across the board, New Zealand
Made is notably completed to a very high standard, whether it’s a wool coat or a chiffon blouse. The local industry needs to work together to keep New Zealand made alive and to create opportunities for designers and retailers to utilise our local talent. Pattern Potentials collaborate closely with their clients to deliver the most successful outcome; understanding a designer’s concept completely is key to creating a successful sample pattern. Throughout the entire process, the team will offer sound knowledge, professional advice and practical assistance. For more information, visit www.patternpotentials.co.nz or email sue@patternpotentials.co.nz.
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CMT & SAMPLING 10 I August 2020
HQ CUTTING SERVICES LTD
HQ Cutting Services Limited has been around the clothing trade since 1991 but owner Glenn Davies has been cutting a lot longer than that. He began his apprenticeship with Ambler & Co in the mid-70s and then moved to Classic Fashions in the 80s. In 1991 Davies went out on his own and began HQ Cutting Services
Limited. With an abundance of experience, no job is too tricky for Davies and his team. Davies hopes to attract the younger generation to the more ‘hands-on’ side of the apparel industry, as CMT services are incredibly important for the industry. HQ Cutting Services Limited is a small business run by husband and wife duo; Glenn and Sheila Davies. They have three cutting tables ranging from 9 metres to 13 metres long and one dedicated table for unrolling and relaxing fabrics. Oftentimes, they work with innovative fabrics that need unrolling due to shrinkages prior to laying. This is to ensure the fabric stays clean and off the floor. They also have a 90cm wide roller fusing press for adhering fusibles – so all block fusing (collars, cuffs, plackets etc.) is done in-house prior to being precision cut on the band knife. HQ Cutting Services Limited will cut anything - from large production
lays of 2-3000 pieces to sampling single garments. Brands that they cut for include Verge Designs, Jane Daniels Designs, Caroline Sills, Snugbags, Dimples, Sweet Cheeks, The Uniform Company to name a few. Recently the company has cut face masks to help with the COVID-19 pandemic and wraps with pinked edges for brands to create sustainable beeswax wraps. HQ Cutting Services Limited have also done costumes and accessories work for major films such as Mulan, Lord of the Rings, Narnia, Ghost in the Shell and more. Glenn and Sheila work hard for the apparel industry and take real pride in their work. “We really like to think we’re approachable and friendly and we love our customers to come in and have a chat and belly laugh along with a coffee,” noted Davies. For your CMT solutions, call Sheila on 021 689 872 or email hqc@hqcutting.co.nz.
MADE BY LORAYNE Made By Lorayne is a clothing alteration and manufacturing company founded by Loryane Baker. Though the company itself is young, Baker has had a love affair with the fashion industry her entire life. She has worked on everything from bulk manufacturing, her own range, to crafting garments for highend designers. Her years of experience have given her the tools to be able to look at each project from every angle. From finding ways to improve on the overall processes, to cost reduction, through to achieving exceptional high-quality results. With the current climate, and the need to fund our local economy, consumers are actively looking at ways to support New Zealand made. This opens up opportunities across the board for designers and brands to use local boutique manufacturers like Made By Lorayne. Baker is passionate about building relationships with designers and working to help them expertly execute their vision, be that within sampling, or production. "I got started in the fashion
industry as a teenager. What started out in my mother’s clothing factory in Mount Maunganui, quickly turned into an all-encompassing love of fashion. I'm absolutely loving being back working in the industry, and
looking forward to connecting and working with established and up-andcoming designers,” noted Baker. For more information visit www. madebylorayne.com or email lorayne@madebylorayne.com.
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Fashion Council of New Zealand is a free industry resource for the fashion industry. Want to get involved? Membership is completely free. Join us in a space that gives you the opportunity to lobby, to network, and to collaborate.
Fashion Council of New Zealand
LABELS & PACKAGING 12 I August 2020
IDENTITY SOLUTIONS Identity Solutions is a New Zealand owned and operated company specialising in custom labelling for the apparel industry since 1992. The knowledge that has been
gained over the years has produced a reputation for high-quality products with innovative solutions backed up by excellent service. Whether it be a woven or printed
label, swing tag, packaging or a simple care and contents label, Identity Solutions will produce the best solution possible for you.
Custom products that Identity Solutions supply include:
• Woven Damask labels • Printed Cotton labels • Printed Swing Tags • Content and Care Labels • Size pips • Metal badges and Pins Identity Solutions can provide large or small orders despite their services being primarily aimed at larger businesses. This year Identity Solutions introduced an online shop with essentials for the smaller fashion companies.
• Apparel Packaging • Hanger Tape • String and Calabash Pins • DIY Care Label Printers • Ink Ribbon and Supplies • Blank Swing Tags The latest addition to the product range is a Custom Designed SmartMask. These fabric face masks mean that your branding can be translated onto the mask, giving a professional look for your business and personnel. The masks offer the
• Iron-on Name Labels • Print Material and Posters • Cardboard Coat Hangers • Custom Face Masks • Sticky Labels - Printed and/or Blank best protection against viruses by using a smart-fabric and unique Silverguard Virus Filter. For your custom-designed products and labelling solutions, contact Identity Solutions on 0800 285 223 or email info@identitys.co.nz.
PORTER PACKAGING PORTER is a bespoke production house that collaborates with creatives to bring unique packaging ideas into production. With an Auckland office and a globally distributed production team, PORTER creates brand-enhancing packaging solutions for a diverse range of local fashion retailers such as Kate Sylvester, Marle, Muse Boutique, and Superette, as well as international brands like Lacoste and Maybelline New York. Working with leading design minds, PORTER understands the importance of the brand journey. In a time when physical retail is subject to restriction, and the power of e-commerce continues to grow, packaging is becoming increasingly important as those brand experiences move from store to door. More than just packaging, PORTER’s beautifully crafted products are an integral part of the customer experience. Often the first point of tactile engagement for customers, PORTER’s work can add immeasurable value for its retail and
e-commerce clients, with high-quality and creative packaging proven to boost customer conversion, satisfaction, and loyalty. Packaging is a dynamic sector with continually evolving opportunities for creativity, and PORTER has a strong commitment to innovation. Offering an extensive and ever-evolving range of traditional and sustainable materials, PORTER helps its clients make informed decisions about materials and
construction, with tailored processes to suit each client’s individual needs. From custom carry bags and boxes to premium gift packaging and specialised e-commerce solutions, whatever your bespoke production needs, PORTER has a packaging solution for you. For more information visit www.porterpackaging.com, or email info@porterpackaging.com.
not an option and the earth’s resources are not treated as infinite. The Better Packaging Co. offers sustainable packaging solutions to support e-commerce and retail. These include alternatives to traditional plastic such as their Compostable Courier Bags, Compostable Bubble Bags and Compostable Courier Labels. The Better Packaging Co. has warehousing and distribution in the USA, UK, Australia, New Zealand and China. For more information visit www.betterpackaging.com, or email hello@betterpackaging.com.
Fashion + Sustainability at Whitecliffe The Bachelor of Fine Arts: Fashion Design programme at Whitecliffe has a strong focus on sustainable and ethical practices and encourages students to challenge the traditional boundaries of fashion to become unique, successful creatives in New Zealand’s fashion industry.
Applications now open for our Feb 2021 intake Apply now: whitecliffe.ac.nz • 0800 800 300 Bianca Lim-Yip
A
fter working with couriers and e-commerce for years, the team from The Better Packaging Co. became aware, and frankly horrified, at the amount of plastic waste the industry was generating. The Better Packaging Co. now develops the world’s most sustainable packaging solutions that consider the complete lifecycle impact of a product from raw material sourcing, right through to end-of-life disposal. They design revolutionary, customised packaging solutions for the new eco-nomy – a circular economy in which generating waste is
Art • Design • Fashion • Tech
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DISTRIBUTION 14 I August 2020
STYLE FALLOW Style Fallow is a family owned and operated fashion distribution business, started and continually driven by a true love of fashion and style. Style Fallow prides itself on representing a premium brand like it's their own, whilst also offering clients full sales and warehouse distribution services. Company directors and motherdaughter duo, Sarah and Jacqui Fallow have an abundance of experience within the fashion industry. From shopping and stylist advisory services, design and range conception, local manufacturing, sales and customer support, to marketing and communications. Style Fallow mainly focuses on the wholesale and distribution side of the business.
LOGISTICS
C&F FASHION LOGISTICS New Zealand’s leading apparel finishing and 3PL logistics specialist. Images courtesy of edmundhillary.com
C&F Fashion Logistics offers a hassle-free 3PL logistics warehousing and end to end finishing and logistics partnership, setting a new standard for innovative fashion and workwear partners. C&F is an MPI approved transitional facility to receive and unpack imported containers from manufacturing source. The company solves speed to market issues, enhances the appearance of garments and streamlines distribution solutions allowing proven costoperating efficiencies. C&F Fashion Logistic’s mission is to help power brand growth both in New Zealand and globally. C&F Fashion Logistics offer not only the very best in finishing technology but also apparel specific retail distribution solutions including e-commerce. Through strategic alliances with trusted freight forward partners, the company offers volume price operating efficiencies and allows a truly end to end logistic solution for brands. Flexibility is C&F Fashion
Logistic’s key difference. They strive to work closely with brands and offer excellent communication which is vital in the new retail landscape. Working with C&F Fashion Logistics is a great way to decentralise your warehousing whilst putting your focus on wider business growth strategies. C&F Fashion Logistic’s philosophy is to merge exceptional quality with the very best in technology. C&F uses their state-of-the-art and New Zealand’s first garment tunnel finishing technology to create creasefree garments with no shrinkage on delicate fabrics. Unlike a traditional hand-steamer, using this unique steam tunnel has proven to remove traces of the COVID-19 virus. Moreover, it is a high performance finishing minus expensive and outdated operating costs of hand steaming. C&F Fashion Logistics is passionate about their commitment to the industry’s environmental concerns. They understand that a brand’s garment journey needs to be transparent in every aspect of
the supply chain. Therefore, as the demand for quality and sustainable fashion grows, C&F has become the go-to for sustainable brands. C&F Fashion Logistic’s standards match their valued partner standards – immaculate, sustainable and quality driven. They are proud to partner with iconic and innovative New Zealand brands such as Edmund Hillary Outdoor, Maggie Marilyn, Verge, Kate Sylvester, Mahsa, K&K, Ruby, Working Style, Workshop, Georgia Alice and Loobie's Story. “C&F Fashion Logistics are our warehouse and 3PL logistics partner of all our stock, wholesale and e-commerce, and could not be more helpful. They have great staff, excellent communication and always make us feel completely welcome. We feel we are part of a team with ambitions to grow together,” noted Clare HallTaylor, Director of Edmund Hillary Brands Limited. For more information visit www.candflogistics.co.nz, or email caro@candf.co.nz.
C&F Fashion Logistic’s philosophy is to merge exceptional quality with the very best in technology. apparelmagazine.co.nz
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LOGISTICS
TAILORED WAREHOUSING AND DISTRIBUTION
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ailored Warehousing and Distribution is the well established Silverdale Knitwear’s new third party logistics (3PL). Tailored Warehousing and Distribution helps businesses who need to bring their cost base down, are unable to negotiate rent holidays with their current landlord, or don't need the same space and therefore need to look at another way of managing their warehousing and distribution side of business. While this hasn't been the core of Silverdale Knitwear's business, moving product around was a natural extension of their existing services. Silverdale Knitwear launched its Tailored Warehousing & Distribution service 18 months ago as a result of having excess space at their Levin-based warehouse. "We thought there could be
competitive freight and warehouse pricing being based in Levin, have good volume rates due to our own knitwear stock movements and can deliver overnight to Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch." For more information, visit www.twd3pl.co.nz, email warren@silverdaleknitwear.co.nz or call 0272 432530.
FIRST GLOBAL LOGISTICS First Global Logistics became an e-commerce freight forwarder about ten years ago when a big clothing retailer asked them to take individual orders down to the post office to ship to Australia. This is when they knew, there had to be a better way. First Global Logistics, at their core, are an international freight forwarding and customs clearance company. The majority of their work is related to international import and export, 3PL and general warehousing. However, First Global Logistics also has a heavy focus exporting small parcels from New Zealand to countries worldwide. “We fly goods in bulk from
16 I August 2020
opportunity to use our many years of experience in shifting product nationally and globally to help especially smaller businesses, whose main task is design and sales, let us handle the warehouse and dispatch side of the business," said Warren Cotterill, managing director of Silverdale Knitwear. "We are able to offer very
Auckland or Christchurch, clear them locally and lodge them with final mile delivery partners. The whole process is linked together by our FGMail tracking portal,” noted Luke Davids, Director of First Global Logistics. Recently, First Global Logistics became the New Zealand agency for Asendia (a combination of the French and Swiss post offices). This means the company can dramatically add to their menu of international postal and courier services worldwide. There are many challenges for the company at the moment, as you would expect. First Global Logistics would normally put goods in the
‘belly’ of passenger planes. However, COVID has significantly reduced the number of international flights which has meant that in July this year, they only had 42 flights per week as opposed to 1200 flights previously. First Global Logistics has had to work around this - flights are still available, however, air freight rates for the company have skyrocketed. First Global Logistics aims to solve anything in relation to cross border logistics, particularly retailers who need help in selling and shipping internationally. The company has also been chartering a few flights and shipping and storing a lot of PPE equipment during this time. First Global Logistics aims to continue to help New Zealand retailers grow by crossing borders and selling to the global market. First Global Logistics is a small team committed to help businesses grow. “Our customer’s success is our success, so the focus on top-level service is at our core.” For more information, visit www.firstgloballogistics.co.nz or email luke@firstgloballogistics.co.nz.
APPLY FOR UP TO
$100,000 WORTH OF SHIPPING CREDITS To help New Zealand businesses reach the world by shipping their products faster and to more locations than anyone else. With limited spaces available, apply today! T&C’s apply.
www.dhldiierence.co.nz
DISPLAY & STORE 18 I August 2020
RETAIL DIMENSION
E
very dimension of retail starts with Retail Dimension. The team at Retail Dimension will work with whatever vision, scale or special requirement you may have to create impactful and memorable retail environments and experiences. With over 20 years of experience in the custom retail solution space - from design, to manufacturing to fit-out, to signage and technology. Retail Dimension houses a team of more than 130 designers, project leaders and craftspeople, the company is trusted nationwide and internationally. Retail Dimensions design-led philosophy draws on a depth of experience in manufacturing and project delivery to provide holistic solutions which are highly practical as well as striking and memorable. For more information visit www.retaildimension.co.nz or email Mike at mike.friend@retaildimension.co.nz.
DIVISION22 Division22 is one of New Zealand’s leading fabrication companies. The number 22 symbolises the duration of their business journey through time. It embodies the principles of precision and balance which are realised through their capacity as master craftsmen. Division22’s mission is to bring opportunity to people and support their clients with the best possible service and value. The company specialises in retail spaces, by creating appealing areas to display products in a unique way it allows clients to provide the best customer experience and conversion possible. From a single retail display to a complete store fit-out, Division22 offers complete packages to suit every customer. Division22 are also experienced in exhibition design and fabrication, experiential design for meaningful engagements, as well as customdesigns for creative minds alike. For more information visit www.division22.co.nz or email hello@division22.co.nz.
E-COMMERCE
ROCKETSPARK
F
ounded over ten years ago, Rocketspark is a Kiwi owned and operated easyto-use website builder and e-commerce software platform that is lighting up the international stage. On a mission to provide Kiwis with a onestop website solution, Rocketspark provides their clients with all the bells and whistles needed to do business online. Right now, adding an online channel to traditional stores is a big opportunity, with minimal extra overhead. With fully editable templates, business owners can easily create a website that fits their branding and showcases their style and products beautifully. Having experienced the fundamental shifts happening in apparel—accelerated by national and international lockdowns, many
designers and brands are exploring the online opportunity to sell directly to the consumer channel, while continuing to provide wholesale options to their retail customers. For local boutiques who are great at sourcing ranges and identifying trends, online provides an opportunity to share their expertise and style with a much wider audience. In the cases of boutique clothing retailers like Leven, Rumor and Hus based in Cambridge in the central North Island, extending their offering online has pushed their local business presence to a national stage - earning them an additional income stream. While Rocketspark clients like Visage Knitwear have continued to use a traditional retail approach for sales, their website is a platform to promote their collections online to a customer base outside of their shop
location. Rocketspark also provides its clients with the option to add a number of helpful integrations to their websites. Fuss-free business tools that make their customers' lives easier, whether they’re wanting to streamline their order management, shipping or their email marketing. Rocketspark has the ability to integrate e-commerce websites with Buy Now Pay Later payment options such as Afterpay and Laybuy to cater to the growing demand of this type of payment gateway. Focused on supporting those new to e-commerce and making online accessible to everyone, Rocketspark’s New Zealand based support team can be easily contacted. For more information visit www.rocketspark.com or simply email support@rocketspark.com.
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edited
WHAT IF YOU ONLY STOCKED THE MOST POPULAR ITEMS?
Trends are more important than ever. Find out how market intelligence can minimize risk when playing outside of your comfort zone.
THE UNPREDICTABLE RETAIL CLIMATE WILL HAVE RETAILERS WANTING TO PLAY IT SAFE WITH THEIR NEW SEASON ARRIVALS. HOWEVER, CONSUMERS WILL WANT TO SHED THEIR SWEATPANTS AFTER MONTHS INDOORS SO INVESTING IN TREND-LED PRODUCTS WILL BE MORE IMPORTANT AS EVER. HOW DO YOU NAVIGATE THIS DELICATE BALANCE? The answer is to look to charts, analysis, formulae and numbers. While none of this sounds incredibly sexy right now, this is where market intelligence enters the game. Market intelligence is the new merchandising. Why? Well, retail processes have been broken long before COVID-19, but the times are a-changin’. Time-consuming, old-school tasks have been revamped with cutting-edge technology, giving retailers a 360 view of the market at the touch of a button and taking the guesswork out of the decision-making for your category.
Oh, and not forgetting footwear:
WHAT DOES A BEST-SELLING ASSORTMENT REALLY LOOK LIKE? Imagine an online store where you only sold bestsellers. A marvelous target-smashing flagship. What would it look like? Well, taking the data at face value, the reality is pretty bleak.
It would look like this:
20 I August 2020
and this for womenswear: All those items are among the most popular and successful in the US and UK mass market. They haven’t been advertised as discounted and when they sell out, they get restocked and remain in assortments as evergreen products. The truth of retail is that trends are just the tip of the iceberg. The majority of money is made on very average, normal stuff. So, building an assortment consisting of comfy sweats, relaxed denim and sensible footwear should get you to retail nirvana. Looking at the most popular colors of best-selling womenswear in the US and UK, 27.5 percent of successful apparel are black. While around 40 percent of best-sellers are in the rather safe range of white, blue, neutral, grey or navy.
fig. 1
fig. 2
fig. 3
It takes a bit of bravery to see that and still invest in bold colors, right (fig. 1)? Then consider the charts below (fig. 2). They show which womenswear categories retailers are choosing to invest in. The left chart shows what’s arrived in the last three months. And the other shows which items perform best – those that sell through are consistently restocked and never discounted. There are noticeable differences, like the much higher focus on dresses and all-in-ones in best-sellers. It’d be fair to ask, why aren’t retailers giving an equal weighting to the categories that perform well as to the new arrivals? That’s because savvy retailing is a careful balance of giving customers what they know they want, and surprising them with things they haven’t yet considered making it important to clue yourself up on trends emerging from social media like Cottagecore, pop culture influences like music videos and the dominant runway looks.
RETAIL WOULD LOOK BLEAK IF WE ONLY SOLD BEST-SELLERS Despite the viral success of the house dress lending to the appeal of floral dresses, plain black styles are consistently outselling this print. And even as the denim market struggles amid COVID, the faithful skinny jean continues to outpace more comfortable and fashionable flared and wide-leg cuts. Safe things sell well – better than trend items in fact. But the truth is, retailers have to balance the risk between the popular basics and the trend-led product if they want an assortment that feels inspiring to shop for (fig. 3). How much investment to make in trend varies from retailer to retailer. One way to gauge that is in assessing the amount of newness in a retailer’s assortment. Last month, around 8-9 percent of products available at department stores such as Macy’s and Bergdorf Goodman were new. Then around 44 percent of H&M’s assortment was new in the last month, while Zara sits closer to 60 percent (fig. 4).
MARKET INTELLIGENCE MAKES YOU A BETTER RISK-TAKER Rather than simply using data to churn out the hits, it’s possible to use numbers to enhance creativity. Having a full market view will help you make sure you’ve got enough of the stuff that will sell, so you can use your OTB budget for some serious fun. It can help you understand how to price something that you’ve never stocked before, and ease fears around category expansion. Data can help you queue the timing and buy-depth on that red hot trend you detect first. Use market intelligence to live a little dangerously. In this new normal, fortune favors the bold. fig. 4
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I 21
colour trending
OFF-WHITE Resene Ethereal
ie-dye has been in and out of style over the decades, it first came into the spotlight in the 80s. However, we have recently seen a resurgence of this trend, it is now both a nostalgic yet modern pattern at the same time. There are many methods in tie-dying clothing, where many fashion enthusiasts are keen to try this fabric dyeing method themselves. However, this does not take away the skill behind tie-dying garments. There is no right or wrong way to create this, however, there are definitely some techniques that can make a bigger visual impact than others. With its popularity soaring yet again, it is seen all over the runways for Spring 2021, it’s to dye for. Celine Men’s Spring 2021 is youthful, colourful and was inspired heavily by skate-culture. From colourful flannels to patchwork jumpers, this purple and blue tie-dye logo shirt, with the purple shade similar to Resene Mozart, fits seamlessly into this collection. Layered under a sleeveless vest and over a striped long
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Resene Sunbaked
MGSM Resene Eye candy
sleeve, this look was definitely nostalgic. However, this styling of this entire look was nothing short of what is seen in millennial and Gen Z streetwear fashion as of late. Designer Slimane wanted to celebrate the e-boys of the social platform, TikTok, hence titling this collection as “The Dancing Kid”. The tie-dye seen in this shirt is subtle, refraining from the typical swirl-like designs that we often picture when we hear the term tie-dye. Children Of The Discordance showcased a range of streetwear styles for the modern man. Designer Hideaki Shikama mixed repurposed vintage materials such as rugs, bandanas and scarves to create a texturefull explosion. The collection included denim pieces billowing shirts and jackets. This oversized tie-dye shirt sports a vintage-style graphic on the back, further enhancing the 80s feel of the entire collection. The pink hue in this simple tie-dye shirt, like Resene BFF, gives the entire look a breath of fresh air. The pop of pink over a muted green is fun and definitely needed to bring this look to life.
CHILDREN OF THE DISCORDANCE Resene BFF
MSGM shows us what tie-dye is all about! Giorgetti unapologetically incorporates the tie-dye trend in this collection. This double tie-dye outfit is bright, fun and colourful, with the arched purple tie-dye design, in a tone resembling Resene Eye Candy, it is a classic. Styled with branded MSGM socks and simple black and white sneakers, our eyes are locked on the tie-dye designs all over this look. The 80s is back, and tie-dye is here to stay. One of our favourite tie-dye looks is seen in Ermenegildo Zegna’s Spring 2021 collection. Artistic director and designer, Alessandro Satori, was inspired by beautiful and untouched landscapes of the Oasi Zegna reserve. This mesmerising collection combined natural fabrics with modern manufacturing techniques. This flowy look combines an oversized silky blazer tucked into baggy dress pants. The thin and silky blazer has an interesting tie-dye design in a gorgeous tangerine colour resembling Resene Sunbaked. This hue has been popular in various facets of art and design from interior decor through to technology and fashion. The entire look is
ISABEL MARANT Resene Double Alabaster
effortless and put together, Satori takes the tie-dye trend, which is seen in more casual streetwear styles, into an elegant ‘suit and pant’ look. The juxtaposition is a clever and truly reinvents the tie-dye trend. The tie-dye pattern is definitely on the subtler side of things in the Isabel Marant Men’s Spring 2021 collection. However, upon further investigation, we see a unique inclusion of the trend on the pants of this look. The white denim in a hue like Resene Double Alabaster is sprinkled with a careful hint of blues and pinks in a tie-dye-like effect. This takes the otherwise boring pair of white denim jeans, to the next level, by adding extra visual interest. Tie-dye designs are a clear indicator of casualwear. Isabel Marant’s collection celebrates brand staples that are comfortable and easy to wear, from windbreakers to comfortable jumpers and knits, whilst not shying away from colour. Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Spring 2021 collection had a large focus on slim suits and tailored pants, but nothing like you’d seen before. With severed coats, suits and
LOUIS VUITTON Resene Moby
MGSM Resene Moonlight
pants, the entire collection embodied a businessman taking an important business trip with a single carryon. This theme felt stronger than normal due to the current climate we are in - with travel restrictions and countries in months of lockdown. This two-piece set moves away from the suit-heavy route this collection entails, however, it stays very on theme with a tie-dye-like effect on both pieces resembling blue skies and clouds, with the blues similar to Resene Moby. Thoughts of exploring and travelling very much on a lot of people’s minds at the moment, therefore, this Spring collection is incredibly timely. A colourful look within MSGM’s Spring collection marks the ‘rebirth’ of normality, since the peak of the COVID-19 pandemic. Designer Massimo Giorgetti created a collection full of light and positivity. The MSGM is young and fun, and this collection embodies this mindset completely. This look is bursting with colour, our attention is instantly drawn to the unique tie-dye quarter-zip in an overall warm and creamy
CELINE Resene Mozart
undertone like Resene Moonlight. The speckles of blues and greens throughout the jumper are fun-loving and interesting. The quarter-zip is combined with a pair of loud pastel pink board shorts, matching socks and sneakers in a similar colourway. Cohesive and stylish, this look is definitely a showstopper. A streetwear classic, Off-White, takes the tie-dye trend to the next level. Although straying a bit from the traditional tie-dying of cotton shirts, this chiffon-like blouse includes a print that resembles very closely to a tie-dye pattern or effect. The pale pink hue like Resene Ethereal swirled in with a cold black makes the look edgy, and ultimately, very street-savvy. The blouse has Off-White branding scattered randomly throughout the print, and with branding often being loud and obnoxious, this branding placement is subtle which is promising for a logo-heavy brand like Off-White. OffWhite successfully uses different textures and patterns to make this otherwise rather monochromatic look shine out from the crowd.
retail eye
CALVIN KLEIN AND TOMMY HILFIGER
I
nternationally recognised and global brands, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger are set to open their doors at Auckland’s new retail precinct, Commercial Bay. From the outset, it was clear Commercial Bay was an outstanding mixed-used development that would work perfectly for the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger brands. It is a place that the brands felt showed a distinct focus on quality in both its design and its concentration of retail and hospitality offerings. Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger wanted to be in a space that showcased local brands but also well-loved international brands like themselves. The fit-out for their new Commercial Bay stores was done by Sidgreaves and Co. (for Calvin Klein), and Datum Projects New Zealand (for Tommy Hilfiger). Although both stores are yet to be opened to the public, with late August being the proposed grand opening date, the Apparel team was able to get some exciting and exclusive insight on what is in store for us. For the Calvin Klein store, the design communicates the brand’s strong DNA and conveys its minimal and modern aesthetic. The store design features clean concrete finishes - enhancing the overall shopping experience. For Tommy Hilfiger, the Commercial Bay store
24 I August 2020
reflects its global retail concept. It fuses the brand’s heritage with clean and modern finishes. Bright and airy whilst taking design cues from the nautical lifestyle - one of Tommy Hilfiger’s longstanding and iconic sources of inspiration. Being global brands, it was important that the retail stores are easily identifiable to what was currently seen around the world. This project was taken by the Australian team who worked directly with their global teams in New York and Amsterdam. They made sure to develop store design concepts that suited the New Zealand market. Liaising with local suppliers and contractors in New Zealand, the teams were able to complete the store fit-out remotely due to travel restrictions that are in place during this time. When customers enter Calvin Klein or Tommy Hilfiger stores, it is important that the retails space is inspiring. “We want our stores to inspire our customers with unexpected fashion experiences and limited-edition capsules.” The Tommy Hilfiger store is on a larger scale in comparison to the selection of stores they have globally. Having a bigger store gives customers the opportunity to look through stunning collections of both menswear and womenswear. It also allows space for the store to
display limited-edition collaborations, collections and capsules. The Calvin Klein store in Commercial bay will be the first freestanding CALVIN KLEIN UNDERWEAR store in New Zealand. Customers will get the chance to explore the latest Underwear offerings as well as a selection of CALVIN KLEIN JEANS and CALVIN KLEIN PERFORMANCE pieces. The Tommy Hilfiger store aims to create a ‘wardrobe experience’ - it aims to allow customers to pick and choose their pieces to create unique outfits easily. For Calvin Klein, their Commercial Bay store design is unique to their portfolio. With signature Calvin Klein branding taking visual presence throughout the new fitout, the new finishes of natural fabrics, metals and black hardware are able to showcase their products to its best ability in this boutique centre. The proposed opening date for both stores is late August. “Whilst the timing for our first New Zealand stores are less than ideal, our new store team have managed superbly.” Both store openings have been delayed slightly due to COVID-19. However, the teams are in a great position for opening weekends and look forward to bringing the best of the two brands to the New Zealand market.
We want our stores to inspire our customers with unexpected fashion experiences and limited-edition capsules.
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in detail
TUESDAY LABEL
We had the chance to catch up with Biddie from Tuesday Label to gain some insight on how and why she started her clothing brand. Tuesday Label aims to create garments that transcend day and night, summer and winter, work and play. With traditional limitations out the window, being your truest self is enough. Biddie was born and raised in Morrinsville, a fertile dairy farming town in rural Waikato. Her family were rag traders, so she was immersed in the apparel industry her whole life. After working for her parents’ manufacturing business during school, in her early twenties, she decided to move to Auckland to carve out her own career in the industry. “With Tuesday Label, I really wanted to create something with a bit of magic to it, something to inspire women to dress beautifully, every day,” said Biddie. Biddie’s earliest memory of fashion was at the request of her grandmother. Her grandmother would knit teeny tiny outfits for her Barbie dolls when she was little. Her grandmother also had a dress-up box filled with draping fabrics which Biddie found herself in her ‘wrap’ creations coupled with too-big heels and clip-on jewels. It’s fair to say, Biddie unapologetically grew up around fashion. A standout piece of clothing in her own wardrobe,
26 I August 2020
well, her mothers was a white lace shirt. “I used to sneak it out of her wardrobe and style it back with my own clothes, dreaming of being allowed to wear it out of the house. Eventually, she gave in and let me have it even though it was years away from fitting me.” Biddie designed a shirt inspired by this in her 2017 Winter collection - it’s a ‘forever’ piece. With so much ‘noise’ and influence around us nowadays, people with opinions and advice left right and centre, Biddie discovered that she actually works best when she shuts out all this ‘noise’ and find her own path to follow. The clarity and stillness she gains is incredibly valuable. “Of course, I still look to mentors or others with more experience, but simple quiet-time is seriously underrated.” Tuesday Label is four years old and has grown from securing 35 stockists to now being in over 50 doors each season. Tuesday Label has moved from working
at home to hiring a small team to create an online presence and pop-up retail stores. “I like stable growth that can be sustained so everything we do is incredibly considered.” The biggest challenge for Biddie is time management, she’s always been a hard worker, switching off when owning your own business is a lot harder than it seems. “If left to my own devices, I’d happily work around the clock, much to the frustration of my family. It’s definitely an area I need to improve on.” A typical day for Biddie is chaotic, to say the least. Biddie’s day starts with a beach walk with the dogs to clear her head for the day before getting into the office. From there, it’s a mix of emails, social media, meetings, phone calls, design, planning, chatting with customers, liaising with stockists and keeping in touch with suppliers. Juggling time with the kids once they are home from school is when it gets the most hectic for Biddie and her husband. They tag-team on
after school activities and their normal dinner and evening routines. Amongst the day-to-day activities, occasionally, Biddie will have photoshoots, roundcountry sales trips, and pre-COVID, Biddie was also travelling to Shanghai twice a year. Some advice that Biddie would give to those who are wanting to start out in the industry is to be prepared to touch all areas of business. It’s important to spend time to get your pricing right, and it’s incredibly valuable to find a mentor throughout the process. The key to success is to not give up. Finding the elusive balance between creating and being content - something Biddie herself is still working on. Formal education in fashion, for Biddie, is not necessarily that crucial. “I think passion and a willingness to learn gets you in the door, and then attitude and old-fashioned work ethic will get you to where you want to go. Experience and time on the ground really is everything.” Outside of being the owner of Tuesday Label, Biddie is often found with her family, friends and her pets. She also loves going to restaurants, bars and concerts as it’s invigorating and inspiring. However, apart from fully experiencing the city-life of Auckland, quiet mini-breaks out of town is equally important for Biddie. Being around nature, the ocean or the countryside works wonders for a reset and refresh whenever it is needed. Tuesday Label is trend-aware - but, with a classic twist that brings a timelessness quality to her collections. The brand is feminine, fun, sophisticated and ageless. “I love watching fashion trends. That whole process from when you first see something ‘new’ and it’s exciting but maybe also feels a little unsure, to when your eye changes and you become totally on board with it.” The Tuesday Label customer is soft-hearted and strong-minded. She knows that wearing nice things every day will make her feel good. She doesn’t wait for special occasions to put on a pretty dress or to be the best version of herself. She’s a lot of things to a lot of people - a mum, a boss, a friend, a colleague. Therefore, her wardrobe needs to be versatile, easily dressed up or down for all occasions that may arise. COVID has hit a lot of fashion brands hard, January and February of this year was frightening for Biddie. With suppliers in lockdown and no way of really knowing when they would be back at work, Biddie had to make many decisions that were stressful. Once COVID fully hit New Zealand in March, it meant that Tuesday Label’s AW20 collection was a bit delayed. However, this wasn’t much of an issue. “I’ve always advocated for working more closely with the weather - instead of delivering Winter coats in February, and as an industry, I think there’s room to move there together.” The support Tuesday Label has had from its stockists has been phenomenal and encouraging. “I’m so proud of our little country and our wonderful people shopping local. Going forward I’m working to continually fine-tune our collections, to be sure we’re offering the very best of Tuesday Label. COVID has been a catalyst for a lot of positive refinement.” Tuesday Label has very recently opened their Takapuna showroom to the public, so customers can now shop Tuesday Label in person. Wholesale enquiries are also welcome. For more information visit www.tuesdaylabel.com, or email biddie@tuesdaylabel.com.
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HOW SIZE-INCLUSIVE IS SUSTAINABLE FASHION?
While demand is growing, less than 20 percent of conscious products retailing cater to above-average sizes - meaning a key demographic is excluded from the sustainable fashion movement.
As the climate emergency accelerates, the fashion industry’s impact on the planet has become front of mind for retailers who have been forced to upheave their processes to work towards a greener future. However, less than 20 percent of conscious products currently in the market cater to above-average sizes. Retailers are neglecting a key demographic within their ranges. In this report, we analyze the current state of the size-inclusive market and where sustainability fits into it, as well as its future. WHY IT’S IMPORTANT Sustainability needs to be inclusive Similar to the concept of Intersectional Environmentalism, the future of sustainability needs to be inclusive, with retailer’s prioritizing people as well as the planet. Brands can’t rightly call themselves sustainable if they are ignoring marginalized groups, which includes size.
There’s market opportunity
According to Credence Research, the global plus size women’s market was worth an estimated $165.2 billion in 2017, growing at 4.4 percent CAGR for 2018-2026. The UK alone is expecting a 13 percent increase in value over the next two years. Additionally, the body positivity community continues to grow and become more vocal on social media about inclusivity in fashion.
Demand is constant
In addition to the overall market poised for growth, charting global Google searches trends show a consistent demand for the term
28 I August 2020
“sustainable plus size.” With environmental issues discussed daily, new hyped brands entering the market and retailers spinning off eco lines are becoming common practice. This high frequency could mirror the frustration of consumers looking for sustainable alternatives in their size.
It appeals to the next generation Gen-Z has been applauded for their woke behavior as they champion social causes, embrace flaws and celebrate diversity. Combined with their interests rooted in sustainability, retailers that don’t align themselves with this cohort’s values now will struggle to earn their trust in the future – not to mention their $143 billion spending power based on Millennial Marketing.
It encourages slow fashion
The limited size-diverse sustainable options could see the slow fashion movement derailed. The majority of fast fashion brands offer shop-by-fit categories, driving customers towards purchasing disposable, lower-quality goods that are more likely to end up in landfill.
THE STATE OF THE MARKET Analyzing product described with sustainable keywords currently available online reveals the limitations within larger sizing. The key takeaways to note are: • According to the International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, the average American woman wears a size 16-18, yet the majority of sustainable products available in the US are between sizes 0-8. • Even brands that promote extended size ranges are falling short on their sustainable offers. Of the eco-friendly product available at H&M, only 2.5 percent sit within H&M + (up to
WHERE IS THE MARKET HEADING? Rethinking sizes With online shopping now the norm, it’s more crucial than ever to perfect fits to avoid items being returned or discarded. Made to order label Laws Of Motion has revolutionized sizing by using data science to engineer 99 microsizes, designed with a zero-waste manufacturing process. Also rethinking traditional sizing, Converse recently launched its debut genderless collection, Converse Shapes – featuring a range of basic items made from 50 percent recycled materials. Accompanying the launch was a new sizing system to accommodate all body types; sizes include I, II, III and IIII.
BRANDS TO NOTE ace&jig (XXS – 4X) ace&jig creates clothing by hand, working closely with fabric dyers and weavers to achieve its signature striped fabric. It reuses all of its offcuts to minimize waste, whether through recycling or artisan collaborations. Its collections are also season-less, going against the traditional fashion calendar.
4XL), while only 5 percent of dresses in stock at Reformation are available in extended sizes (up to 3XL). • A similar pattern within the UK is revealed, where the average women wears a size 16 cited by FashionUnited. Sustainable products are more skewed towards smaller sizes with even fewer options above a size 20. • In the UK, only 3.3 percent of Zara‘s Join Life range is available in an XXL. Breaking down the eco options within ASOS’s private labels, which partner with the Better Cotton Initiative, show 10 percent of these sit with ASOS Curve (up to a UK30). For brands looking to cater to this untapped market: • Streamline major trends across all
Adaptive apparel Much like the school uniforms designed to adapt to children’s changing bodies, which are rife in the back-to-school market, there’s also demand for better-engineered garments to grow with adults to avoid throwing out items that no longer fit. The average woman experiences 31 size changes during her adult life based on Twin Genie, leading to brands such as Mara Hoffman, Universal Standard and Anyango Mpinga to create “hackable” garments that can be worn regardless of size fluctuations and prolonging shelf life. Features include extra fabric allowance around the hips, detachable belts, adjustable waistlines, elastic sleeve openings and internal drawstrings.
Organic basics is a minimalist intimates and activewear label that focuses on using eco-friendly materials such as Tencel. The brand champions transparency, displaying each product’s impact on its site while also offering customers a low-impact version of its website, which requires less energy to
often hesitance to supply larger sizes due to additional material costs. With coronavirus ushering in the “kindness economy”, consumers will be looking to back brands that prioritize people and the planet over their bottom line.
more sustainable practices, rental services have grown in popularity as an alternative to buying new. Platforms catering to larger sizes include Rent The Runway, which offers garments up to a size 24 and a filter to browse
Unlimited program in which customers can rent sizes 14-28 for $79 per month. The resale market is also continuing to blossom, but how diverse are the sizes? The reluctance from designer labels to cater to larger sizes means minimal plus size options on luxury consignment sites. Currently, Vestiaire Collective carries up to a size 20 and The Real Real carries up to a size XL. On the other end of the scale, with over 50,000 products, ThredUp has a dedicated plus section catering to a 5XL, while smaller vintage boutiques such as Berriez and Cake are bubbling up on Instagram. These circular models are also an attractive option for maternitywear, so women don’t have to invest in new clothes that will only be worn for a limited period.
As the fashion industry moves towards
by body shape, Gwynnie Bee, stocking sizes 0-32, and StitchFix’s plus size subscription box service catering to a size 24 and 3XL. Plus size retailer Eloquii recently made its first foray into this space, launching the Eloquii
run.
Hara (XS – 5XL)
Rental & resale
Hara is a lounge and activewear label that uses non-toxic dyes and sustainable fabrics, including bamboo. It also manufactures locally to reduce its carbon footprint. The brand represents a range of body types on its Instagram while tackling taboo subjects such as
Sotela (0-10) Sotela prides itself on being an inclusive brand, holding the tagline “for humans, by humans.” The brand uses a unique measurement style, with sizes numbered from 0 to 10. Products are made-toorder, utilizing materials such as organic linen.
Organic Basics (XS – XXL)
sizes. The notion that an individual print or silhouette is more suited to one body shape over another is outdated and will not resonate with today’s consumer. • Don’t add a “fat tax.” There is
of ethical fashion. The influencer favors bright color palettes and bold prints adding a playful edge to her outfit posts.
Sydney Grace – She/Her
Sydney Grace creates Instagram and TikTok content, challenging fat phobia while promoting radical self-love. The influencer often works with Lovefool, a vintage clothing brand, while also highlighting plus size ethical fashion brands.
Lydia Okello – They/Them
A model and creative, Lydia Okello shares their outfits weekly, championing bold, non-binary fashion. They have worked with brands including Rothy’s and are signed with Stranger Agency. menstruation.
Influencers in the space: Marielle Elizabeth – She/Her Marielle Elizabeth is an advocate for slow fashion for all. She creates resources for followers on topics such as plus-size vintage shops and unpacking fat phobic imagery.
Kat Eves – She/Her
Kat Eves is a podcast host, feminist, body positivity advocate and supporter
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@ravenandrose www.ravenandroselingerie.com
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classifieds
- Complete Sampling Service Pattermaking - Computerised Digitising & Grading - Computerised Marker Making - Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates - Sample Making - Production Runs - Production Cutting Call the team (09) 369 9249 / 021425149 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz / oliviah@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY
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32 I August 2020