$ 10.95
SEPTEMBER 2020 I VOL 53 I NO 9
editor ' s note
THERE'S NO ROOM FOR DESPONDENCY No-one in business in this country can pretend that everything in the economic garden is lovely – certainly not a pleasant way to start the new year. But there are answers to the problem. Those who do nothing because things look bad, are going to suffer and perhaps go under. Those companies – both retail and manufacturing – who are prepared to merchandise properly and trade their way out of this situation, will come out stronger than ever from this relatively short-term down turn in trading. In the past few months, I have never seen manufacturing quite so despondent, nor so many retailers shrugging their shoulders over their inability to buy more and help out. Some of the leading makers have already said that they will not commit themselves so deeply for winter or next summer because they are not prepared to job out cancelled orders and make for stock. While it may seem realistic to them, it will create a forward problem of shortages when the market does come up, which isn't a bad thing in itself but doesn't give us a stable industry. And if ever we had to prove stability in our industry it will be this year. Even if the government hasn't noticed what happened to the industry in Australia, particularly footwear and basic clothing items, the trade has, and is ready to fight for its right to exist. Which means to beat 1975 and come out on top,
this industry, from retail right through to mills and tanneries, must work in cohesion, promoting New Zealand manufactured goods as never before for our simple survival. This is the year when our knitters will get more support from the makers-up, if they can deliver the goods, but it's got to be the right price and styling. Our clothing and footwear industry overall, still has a great reputation for quality – this mustn't suffer in 1975. It also has a responsibility to produce what the market needs without being forced into a corner by import substitution. This threat hasn't come, to be fair to the government, but the industry also cannot let this responsibility slide because it hasn't enough confidence in itself to trade its way out. So who's going to give our industry a lead towards a bright trading year? It's only going to be everyone working towards great merchandise and good merchandising. 1975 is going to be a year when everyone is going to play a part in getting us through but we still warn against lack of confidence because things are getting better already. And for those not game enough to carry on at the level their stock and facilities demand – get out now before you hurt those who are trying hard. In January of 1975, Peter Mitchell wrote this Editor's Note in Apparel, and it could not be truer today.
fashionable reads The Illustrated World Of Couture
By Megan Hess The world of couture is a world of wearable art. It is a world where creativity and craftsmanship collide. Megan Hess has spent her career documenting fashion's most beautiful people, places and pieces. In The Illustrated World of Couture, Hess brings to life important pieces of art form, with exclusive insights and exceptional illustrations. Couture is only worn by a handful of people worldwide, however, it still has incredibly influence even beyond the traditional boundaries of the fashion show runway. Explore this unique collection and follow Hess through the intricate details, multifaceted inspirations and dramatic shows that define the couture experience. Hess introduces to us the generations of creators who are the best of their craft, as well as couture collectors who treasure this art form. Explore exclusive ateliers and high profile events within famous fashion destinations all over the world. The Illustrated World of Couture is the perfect book to get immersed in for all fashion enthusiasts.
The Pocket: A Hidden Histroy Of Women's Lives
By Barbara Burman And Ariane Fennetaux This fascinating and enlightening study of the tie-on pocket combines materiality and gender to provide fascinating insights into the social history of women’s everyday lives from 1660 to 1990. From duchesses and country gentry to prostitutes and washerwomen. This book explores consumption practices, sociability, mobility, privacy and identity. The study of the historic tie-on pocket brings a wealth of evidence that reveals unexpected facts of the past, bringing women’s stories into intimate focus. The tie-on pocket was often used as a supplementary body part that helped women negotiate in a male-centric world.
Dead Style: A Long Strange Trip Into the Magical World of TieDye
COVER STORY
PAGE. 14 CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM
Peter Mitchell Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Janet Guan - janet@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento Debby Wei
2 I September 2020
ISSN 1171-2287
Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 304 0142 Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2020 NZ Apparel Magazine.
By Mordechai “Mister Mort” Rubinstein Dead Style explores the influence of hippie culture on contemporary and street fashion. Tie-dyed pieces from designer labels like Louis Vuitton, Off-White, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Missoni and Burberry have dominated the runways. This book is visually driven and heavily captioned, its a lookbook for the current deadhead culture. Mordechai “Mister Mort” Rubinstein has held roles at Levi’s, Kate Spade, Marc Jacobs, and Men’s Vogue. Alongside this, his photography work has been featured in the New York Times, GQ, Wall Street Journal, and other major media outlets.
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94th edition
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fast five
NEW ZEALAND LEATHERWARE BRAND CELEBRATES A MARRIAGE BETWEEN CULTURES Growing up in Western Africa and the UK, Nnamdi Ikechukwu was surrounded by confident women with a reverence for fashion. "Their outfits were never just about utility, they were a means of expression, they help power," said Ikechukwu. When crafting his brand, Ikesenti, creating products from premium leather was an obvious choice. Cheshire was a region that was wellknown for its tanneries due to its vast oak forests, the bark of which is rich in tannins used to make leather. Further, there is a long history of legendary leatherwork in West Africa. In West Africa, footwear commanded respect, majesty and authority in society. Thus, the
symbolism of shoes, in general, was incredibly meaningful for Ikechukwu. "Shoes were made for status or ceremony and were part of a royal tradition of handing down footwear across generations," added Ikechukwu. Ikesenti is born out of two words from the West African language that means 'power' and 'saint'. Ikesenti provides a range of simple yet strong and luxurious leather designs in fresh colourways. Ikesenti leather is sourced from one of the best Italian luxury tanneries in Europe who are committed to the environment and sustainability. Then, they are crafted by hand in Brazil, Indonesia, Portugal and Spain where all ethical and quality benchmarks are met.
MEET THE WOOL PIPER FROM ALLBIRDS The Wool Piper; Allbirds' twist on the classic cup sole shoe. The Wool Piper puts their signature upper made from sustainably sourced merino wool front and centre. The wool upper replaces the highpolluting leather that is commonly used for sneakers in a similar style. You can easily incorporate the sneaker trend into your everyday style without feeling guilty or
VAULT BY VANS X WTAPS UNVEILS EXCITING SECOND DROP One of the most anticipated collaborations unveils the second drop this season. Vault by Vans x WTAPS released their latest footwear, apparel and accessories instalment that combines Van's timeless styles with WTAPS military-meets-urban craftsmanship. In black and bright orange colourways, we see two themes emerge in their footwear collection. White embroidered crossbones appear across the OG Classic Slip-On, OG Era and OG Sk8-Hi in both colourways. Men's apparel offerings includes a short-sleeve tee, long-sleeve tee, pullover, crew sock and bandana, in the corresponding colour scheme of black, white and orange. This second drop is bright, fun, edgy and the epitome of streetwear style in Aotearoa.
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damaging the environment with the Wool Piper. Merino wool is a wonder fibre; naturally breathable, moisturewicking and unbelievably soft. Allbirds have spent years creating one-of-a-kind classics out of the highest quality wool they can get their hands on, and now they have their newest member of their Wool family.
COVID-19 RESHAPES E-COMMERCE PAYMENT METHODS The e-commerce market in Australia has grown steadily over the past few years, and despite the recent pandemic, it has only further accelerated this growth. Australia's e-commerce market is forecast to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 12.3 percent between 2016 - 2020 to
reach $52.2 billion AUD in 2020, according to GlobalData. "Social distancing, self-isolation, closure of brick and mortar stores due to lockdown measures have led to a higher preference for online channels by consumers for making purchases during the pandemic. The current crisis opened the e-commerce market to a whole new set of consumers who were earlier not using online channels," said Ravi Sharma, Banking
and Payments Lead Analyst at GlobalData. According to a report by Australia Post, in April this year, 200,000 new shoppers entered the online retail space in Australia, and according to GlobalData's 2020 Banking and Payments Survey, credit and debit cards are the most preferred method for e-commerce payments. Alternative payments like PayPal, Apple Pay and Google Pay are
also increasing due to its added convenience and contactless abilities. Buy Now, Pay Later services are also becoming popular in Australia. It is increasingly being preferred by milennials as they use the service as a budgeting tool. "E-commerce has become the default option for several customers in Australia and is set to remain the preferred method even beyond this pandemic."
ASOS’ FIRST CIRCULAR COLLECTION ASOS has launched its first-ever circular collection that features 29 clothing and accessories pieces ranging from simple tees through to denim. Each product follows industry-leading circularity principles that target areas such as zero-waste design and recycled textiles. ASOS has been working on discovering how circularity can be incorporated into an e-commerce platform like themselves. Over the past few years, ASOS has worked closely with suppliers to apply design principles that promote circular design. "What this collection shows is that you don't need to make a choice between the circular economy and fashion and that you can make sustainable products without compromising on design or on price." All ASOS designers are now trained in circular principles, it's exciting to see the release of their first circular collection being so well received. "We're so excited to see how we can take this project forward and use our size and scale to share our expertise with our supplier but also other brands and retailers."
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beauty spot
GROWN ALCHEMIST
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Natural, non-toxic, no-fuss skincare. Just like it’s supposed to be. Grown Alchemist’s understanding of cellular renewal and nutrient metabolism, allows them to formulate products that represent the new evolution in skincare.
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rothers Keston and Jeremy Mujis, Australian-Kiwi’s based in Melbourne, has been passionate about the beauty industry from an early age. In their early adult years, they were working overseas where they saw the health revolution happen around them. The health revolution was prominent, yet according to the Mujis’, the beauty industry was not as quick to adapt and continued to use very harmful and toxic chemicals. The Mujis brothers began working on the concept of the Grown Alchemist in the late 1990s. With a curated team of the best scientists from around the world and ten years of research into the link between health and beauty, the Grown Alchemist was formally founded in 2008. “Our goal was to develop industry-leading formulations, which were focused on changing the industry and improving people’s health.” Grown Alchemist offers a broad range of Australian made plant-based skincare for your face, hand, hair and body. They also offer a range of nutritional supplements designed to improve the health of your skin, body and mind. Grown Alchemist is independently certified to be free of toxins and carcinogens, is not tested on animals and features 100 percent recyclable packaging. Grown Alchemist formulations are proudly and independently certified by Safe Cosmetics Australia to highlight that their products are made with nontoxic ingredients. Safe Cosmetics Australia is the pioneer and innovator in regulating and certifying transparency of manufacturing processes within the cosmetics industry. When developing products, Grown Alchemist has an award-winning team of scientists for over 20 years. “We continue to invest heavily in this area to ensure we are creating the best products using the best practices available.” While plant-based products are the best for our cells, body and health, they post unique challenges and levels of complexity during the formulation
process. Challenges may include achieving the right ‘feel’ of a product that meets customer expectations as well as creating products with a typical long shelf life of 12-18 months. The beauty industry continues to grow in size and relevance worldwide. Competition within the niche skincare category is continually growing. “We continue to be an industry leader in this space through our determination and unwavering commitment to creating products which are truly clean.” The Grown Alchemist team is looking forward to opening their very own retail concept - the Grown Alchemist Retail Lab. Opening a store is a major development for any brand, and the Mujis brothers are excited to bring this concept to their home; Melbourne, Australia. The Retail Lab will be an innovative and industry-leading space combining the ultimate retail experience with unique treatments, science and technology. For those who are hoping to start out in the beauty industry, the Mujis brothers hopes to give you one piece of advice - resilience. “You will face many challenges and learnings along the way which are not apparent when you first begin. Embrace each as an opportunity to stay true to your initial purpose and your point of difference in the industry.” There is a myth that beauty and skincare is hard and not for everyone, however, for the Mujis brothers, they want to break such myth. “Learning how to look after your skin is very easy. Read blogs, listen to podcasts, watch videos on YouTube and research ingredients online. There are so many wonderful tutorials available by industry experts. Start with the basics and build your knowledge over time.” For more information about Grown Alchemist visit www.grownalchemist.com or email enquiries@grownalchemist.com.
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edited
The future of face masks
Whether you like them or not, face masks are here to stay. So how are retailers curating this product to fit into their assortment while fitting consumer needs?
Face masks have come to serve a variety of situations as use becomes regulation, embedding them into daily routines. As we edge into a new way of living, PPE and face masks have become a new norm within that. We outline the five ways to evolve this product as we enter fall and adjust to using face masks. Want to find out how to take advantage of other trends aside from these? .
SPOTLIGHT ON: HIGH-END MASKS
Built-in & detachable details
With designers such as Off-White and Burberry dropping face masks, the product has evolved from a necessity to the latest status symbol and an entry priced buy-in to luxury labels. In contrast to value packs, this opens the market to experiment with premium fabrics and trend-led designs to create an affordable luxury item at an elevated price point. Look to brands who have turned the face mask into a cult item such as The Vampire’s Wife, which offers silk masks and face scarfs between £38-125.00 that sell out within minutes and Candice Cuoco’s 100 percent lambskin leather masks, which can retail up to £180.00.
Boohoo were quick off the mark, with built-in details landing as early as April across genders – mainly worked into hoodies. As temperatures drop, there’s more space for these. Currently, 68 percent of ‘snood’ tops retailing are at boohoo or boohooMAN. The ME AND EM product retailing at Selfridges (see below) has a detachable-snood. Though this landed prepandemic, it illustrates that the detail can work in the luxury market too. Ski masks speak to consumers who live in regions that will feel the depths of winter. It also chimes with the broader movement of interest and love of the outdoors. Designs in black with traditional stitch design detail have arrived from Acne and Supreme, the latter landed early July for $155 USD and £177 GBP at Farfetch and sold out within a week.
Handkerchiefs/bandanas for a trend-led alternative
Riffing off the Western story of the moment, these have been the covering of choice for many celebrities from Olivia Palermo to Sarah Jessica Parker. How useful a scarf is at keeping germs at bay is questionable, but these can be offered as a covering to a plain fitted and more technical mask.
1. ADAPT FOR TEMPERATURE CHANGES Snoods for coziness and comfort There’s opportunity to help make children feel more comfortable wearing a covering that has character detailing – sets including snoods can work well here. Neck warmers are also less likely to be whipped off or dropped by a child, which sits more securely.
8 I September 2020
Balaclavas for optimal covering
2. COMFORT SHOULD BE FRONT & CENTER Just 15 percent of face masks retailing are described as comfortable
which also make no reference to aiding prevention of spreading or catching coronavirus.
Discomfort around wearing face masks is something that retailers must respond to and solve. Provide a product that appeals to those who are struggling to find one that suits them.
ends of the market, from $9.99 at Zulily to £86 by Serapian at YOOZ. Explore these as a gifting option for the festive period. J.McLaughlin’s three Piece Sanitizer Set, which includes gloves, a mask and sanitizer in a pouch, is another item that holds potential for gifting.
Use terms that signal comfort in descriptions Only six percent of products retailing use the term ‘breathable’ and 7 percent say ‘lightweight’, including these can help shoppers feel at ease with wearing and purchasing them. Other terms to consider in design and then applying to product descriptions include ‘skin friendly’ noted at SilkFred and Tilly’s, particularly when speaking to acne prone customers who’ve experienced ‘maskne’ – acne brought on by wearing a mask.
Offer size options & fit detail
Dillard’s uses the term ‘comfortable’ most and stock a number of styles that come in a range of sizes rather than a one size fits all. SLIP at Nordstrom features an ‘adjustable metal nose piece’ – with extra details you can command a higher price.
Explore silk options & matching sets
51 percent of silk masks sit at $20-40 in the US and 38 percent between £20-40 in the UK. Dolce & Gabbana’s matching silk PJ sets are upwards of £945/$1,193 while Revolve offer one for $21. In The Style’s most recent line with Gemma Collins has matching printed pieces that extend to masks at a much lower price point.
4. FORMAL FUNCTIONS Decorative coverings to sit over regular masks Revolve is one retailer that has released a mask covering. The chainmail product comes with a jersey mask to wear underneath. Designers should think outside the box, but ensure that new developments are still functional and provide the required protection.
Coordinating fabrics
ALSO TO CONSIDER
Reserve a small run of fabric to create matching masks with. Ensure that the items sit as a product suggestion on the page with the coordinating garments. BHLDN has even launched masks that compliment bridal dresses.
• If you have outlets in travel hubs, ensure you are stocking masks in these locations. Similarly, as people begin to fly again masks should become a key part of your vacation story communications. • Making shoppers feel more comfortable in stores by distributing free masks. • As it becomes essential to wear masks in stores in multiple regions – ‘need a spare?’ or ‘be prepared’ framed stories can work. A spare mask to leave in the car or have in a bag. • As we edge towards the holiday season, novelty masks could become the new novelty jumper. Similarly Halloween is fast approaching. Offer personalized options and interchangeable features to suit celebrations or moods. • We noted the lack of reflective materials used, this is something retailers should offer as darker months draw in.
5. VALUE Expand multi-packs 3. FILL THE GAP IN THE SPORTS MARKET Under Armour’s Sportmask sold out in hours This demonstrates demand. There’s no other retailer with anything close on the market. On UA’s product page shoppers are invited to sign up to notifications for when the item is available again. The mask has an adjustable nose bridge, comes in four sizes and is designed with three layers of different fabrics. Spacer fabric which helps create air pockets to create structure, breathable open-cell foam and the inside layer uses Iso-Chill technology that disperses heat.
Packs of masks can feel fresh with multiple colorways or patterns in them. These can make those who are on a budget feel like they are getting more value and variation for money and can compliment more of their daily situations. Consider offering packs that feature different sizes that can fit across different family members.
Bumper accessories packs
Multi-packs don’t have to be constricted to just multiple masks. SHEIN offers variations of masks with matching hair accessories in bundles.
Branch out beyond black
Those released by sports retailers have largely been plain black with a small white logo placement. While there’s a place for these subtle designs, those in the sports market should be offering something different too – be that a product more performance based or aesthetically alternative. Forever 21’s Three-Piece Set, though not an overtly technical design speaks to consumers who are keen to return to the gym, feel good in what they are wearing and feel safe.
Nike’s offering focuses on warmth
We’ve tracked snoods at Nike coming to market in October 2018 and its updated styles across Sep/Oct 2019. In April, Nike launched a similar product ahead of schedule. There appears to be no tweaking of the product description to make it coronavirus related, the main focus of function is to keep warm. The latest style launched by Nike is with its VaporKnit fabric
6. PRACTICALITY Make it versatile
Retailers are doubling up eyeglass chains as mask chains. These are sold together with masks or as separate items. Ranging from brighter, chunkier plastics to more delicate chains – we’ve not noted any plaited leather interpretations which could command a higher price. Pockets or pouches to store masks retail at both
Packs of masks can feel fresh with multiple colorways or patterns in them. These can make those who are on a budget feel like they are getting more value and variation for money and can compliment more of their daily situations.
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I9
designer focus
TRISH PENG 2020
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rish Peng is the creative director of her eponymous bridal label and is known for her innovative designs, many of which are the first of their kind. From the age of seven, Peng knew she wanted to be a fashion designer and taught herself how to sew at an early age. She enrolled in Whitecliffe College of Arts & Design, where she started to grow her brand during studying and at home. She moved to New York after graduating in an attempt to open some doors for her brand. Peng interned at New York Fashion Week as part of the social media team and worked as a style consultant at Saks Fifth Avenue, making valuable contacts that would ultimately help get her brand stocked in the esteemed chain. Peng was accepted to be a contestant on Project Runway US in 2014 – a highlight of her early career - but her visa was granted just two days too late. Instead of dwelling on what ‘could have been’ she forged on and officially registered her business. Taking the plunge to work on her brand full time, Trish never looked back. A couple years later (thanks to investment by a contact from her college years), Peng went back to the US and opened a showroom inside the Garbutt Mansion in 2016. In true Trish Peng style, the designer had her Los Angeles clients picked up in Ubers and chauffeured to the showroom for their consultations with afternoon tea and champagne included.
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Peng’s custom offering helped set her apart from the number of bridal locations in Beverly Hills but establishing herself in the US whilst maintaining her New Zealand business was tough. In just the second year of her business, Trish had to learn an entirely new market while at the same time still learning how to operate a company. She had to understand the ins and outs of two different markets in two different hemispheres, designing for two different types of brides. Peng has since split her time between Tinseltown and Auckland – designing only 50 custom made masterpieces a year for clientele including Sweet Valley High star Brittany Daniel and OC alum Kristin Cavallari. With her career excelling at a fast pace, Trish realised she needed to focus on one thing and made the decision to stop her ready-to-wear line in 2016 and concentrate on bridal. Back home at New Zealand Fashion Week in August of the same year, Peng took bridal couture to a new level with her eye-popping finale piece. The elaborate red custom gown featured a record-breaking 20-metre-long silk tulle train – the longest train to ever appear on a New Zealand catwalk. The dress was made with vintage Christian Dior lace flown in from France and featured hundreds of Swarovski crystals that took four people 120 hours to put together. The red dress was inspired by Peng’s Chinese
heritage. "Red is a sign of prosperity and good luck so it was a bit of that as well as making a statement for the grand finale piece." It wasn't clear whether Peng's train was the longest to ever feature on a catwalk internationally, but it fell just a little short of the longest ever wedding dress train worn by a Chinese bride in 2015 which was a whopping 2599 metres long. The next year, Peng wowed the crowd again at New Zealand Fashion Week sending a $20,000 dress made entirely out of fresh flowers down the runway. There were 12 different kinds of flowers used and it took more than five hours to put together. Despite the enormous cost, the show stopping number lived for just three days out of water before the flowers died. 2019 was another notable year for Peng who took out California Wedding’s ‘Best Custom Wedding Dress’ and made headlines when she created the world's first reversible wedding dress collection named, Reflections. Peng was inspired to create the collection after one of her brides couldn’t decide whether she wanted a plain dress or a lace dress. The result was to do both – flip it and reverse it! The collection is made up of eleven reversible styles are available in every silhouette and can be worn both ways - all inspired and named after her brides. “The collection was quite technical to create as no one in the industry has attempted a reversible bridal
gown before. When I couldn’t find a zipper supplier to do reversible zips, only finding chunky sleeping bag zips, I came up with the idea to hand stitch two zips on each side to form a supportive bodice,” Peng said. Reflections is currently stocked in Peng’s new flagship store in Auckland in which she opened in early May 2020. The flagship epitomises Peng’s acumen for premium luxe bridal wear and feminine flare. The new concept store is not only a New Zealand destination for complete custom design, but also semi-custom design for brides seeking a personal touch with Peng’s original collection garments. With the offering of personalised and intimate one-on-one consultations, this concierge-like bridal destination is a one-stop shop for customisation complete with live dress sketching and top choices of extravagant fabrics, lace, and beading sourced locally and worldwide. “It’s important Kiwi women have the opportunity to experience a luxurious wedding offering with complete poise and ease,” added Peng. “Globally, there are multiple flagship stores like what I’m offering and I’m really excited to help Kiwi brides make their special day as special as can be.” 2020 has been an exciting year for Peng with more to come. She has a new collection due to launch soon, has just kicked off a brand partnership with Volkswagen NZ, and is busy working away at plans for expansion in 2021.
It’s important Kiwi women have the opportunity to experience a luxurious wedding offering with complete poise and ease.
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emerging designer
LLIEU
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he mastermind behind LLIEU The Label is Lan Lieu; LLIEU, being a clever play on her name. Lieu was born in Vietnam and came to New Zealand when she was just five years old. Most of her childhood was spent in Auckland. She is a very hands-on person and is always up for a do-it-yourself challenge. Being a fresh brand in 2020, Lieu wanted to finally step foot into the fashion industry and to start her own label. After studying fashion design in AUT, she always knew that starting a label was on the books - the timing was the only factor. “It’s all about timing for me and I didn’t want to force myself to start something that I would end up giving up on,” explained Lieu. Currently, LLIEU is a one-woman team. All materials are locally sourced from small local stores around Auckland and all LLIEU pieces are hand made at her home studio. LLIEU’s latest collection celebrates hand embroidery. Lieu grew up with her mother teaching her how to hand embroider and knit. “I find that with our generation, people love the idea of working in the fashion industry and designing clothes, but not many people know how to knit or hand sew. I would love to bring more awareness to these types of skills and have our younger generation learn and teach their kids.” At the moment, LLIEU focuses on essential pieces that an be worn all year round. “As a small business, doing seasonal collections does not make sense to me - and, it will just contribute more to the textile waste problem that the fashion industry is well-known for.” Lieu’s favourite piece in this collection is the “Noods at Dinner” table runner. It’s fun and adds a bit of funk to dinner parties and lunches. Lieu hopes to see her products stocked in more stores in Auckland - at the moment, she is selling solely through her online store. With a made-to-order system, LLIEU is able to minimise waste whilst also donating 10 percent of her profits to a charity of the customer’s choice. “This ensures that we are constantly contributing to the community and helping with what we can. With the current situation, I think everyone in every industry, no matter how big or small, should all help each other out.” For more information visit www.llieus.com or email hello@llieus.com.
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I find that with our generation, people love the idea of working in the fashion industry and designing clothes, but not many people know how to knit or hand sew.
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in detail
TAYLOR Fracture is the title of the Autumn/Winter 2021 collection by Taylor. Designer Vicki Taylor spent a day at Gibbs Farm Sculpture Walk, and after being exposed to the sheer strength and dominance of Richard Serra’s pieces, it led her to discover even more of his work. “Having always been inspired by his artworks, and always gravitating the strength of geometric shapes and linear angles, we started at Fulcrum (late 1980’s) and followed his journey of these oversized steel panels that appear to float at subtle distances and with angles that create negative spaces,” explained Taylor. “Then the negative spaces and linear divisions took our creative minds to divide and fracture the panels of our garments. This
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has led to inserted panels, binding and divisions appearing all the way through the collection.” Importing unique textiles for the collection meant trawling through lots of swatches from Europe and Japan. The textiles selected inspired the backbone of the collection, and dictated the garment shape and design. The team also hand painted prints that fit seamlessly into the collection. After a highly disruptive year, the pieces in this collection reflect the times we are living in. Putting a much higher emphasis on lifestyle dressing and combining pieces and textures so the wearer can get multiple looks from a garment. At Taylor, they have core styles which appear season after season, the brand has been informed by many clients that they are not allowed to stop running these. “As Taylor builds on itself each collection designed to last years not months, this works easily into our design aesthetic.” This collection is about giving strength and confidence to women. Landing in-store in March, the collection is available for wholesale now. For more information or to become a stockist, email brand@taylorboutique.co.nz.
10 PIECES -COLLECTIONby
Fo r wh o l es a l e e n q u i res : b ra n d @ ta y l o r b o u t i q u e.c o. n z
taylorboutique.co.nz/10-pieces
in detail
16 I September 2020
BENJAMIN ALEXANDER Benjamin Alexander is a vision of curation and lifestyle, offering the luxury of quality, comfort and experience that is ethically responsible. Proudly crafted in New Zealand, Benjamin Alexander offers apparel and accessories that disrupts the current process of producing clothing. Benjamin Alexander aims to build considered practices within the luxury market whilst exhibiting transparency over all sectors. The brand’s vision of luxury is considerate of the effects on the future of design and the planet. Apparel had the chance to talk to the designer and creative director of his namesake label to understand his inspirations and thought processes when creating his latest collection. The latest collection by Benjamin Alexander is called Volume. 02 “For Your Grandchildren”, exclusively available on their website. Volume. 02 is about creating pieces that you will wear for a lifetime and for lifetimes to come. “You aren’t buying a piece for yourself, but rather for your grandchildren,” explained Alexander. Longevity is imperative in sustaining both the natural and social environment of today and Benjamin Alexander believes that customers should make purchases that will transcend seasons. Volume. 02 includes an exclusive collaboration with Reuben Paterson’s “The Long, Long White Cloud”. Paterson’s work has been printed on 100 percent recycled polyester. “I first met Reuben at an opening of his show at Gow Langsford many years ago and fell in love with both the work, and the person.” As a believer of purchases that transcend seasons, Benjamin Alexander staples such as The Freddie and the William Pant will continue to be apart of this collection and more to come with variation. When looking at aligning with retailers, Alexander values intimate experience and customer relationships. A lot of the Benjamin Alexander brand is about engagement and creating an atmosphere where customers feel at home in. To shop Volume. 02, visit www.benjaminalexander.co or email brand@benjaminalexander.co.
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in detail
KAREN WALKER 18 I September 2020
In their latest upcoming collection, Karen Walker’s Squadron is a collaboration with The Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron ahead of their 150th anniversary. In-stores early November, designer Karen Walker was influenced by the romance and nostalgia of sailing and the wealth of history possessed by the Squadron. Established in 1871, the Squadron inspired a collection of limited edition lifestyle pieces that are true to Walker’s signature chic-meets-eccentric style. “I grew up on the water and I wanted this collection to reflect that sense of tradition and romance that boating life always evokes for me,” Walker said. As a lifelong Aucklander, Walker grew up tootling around
the waters of the Hauraki Gulf on the Walker family boat, the Gulf ’s never been far from her heart or her eye. This collection is a subversive take on romantic, glamorous, retro leisurewear. Over half of the pieces are made with 100 percent organic cotton. All of the prints are bespoke RNZYS x KW and are printed on silk viscose or rain coating. Wool lurex knits also make an appearance in the collection. The Squadron is, of course, the holder of the America’s Cup, but it’s also the holder of an extensive and important archive of maritime history. The KW team were able to access this impressive collection.
One of the jewels in the Squadron’s crown, the painting of the Royal Yacht Britannia, painted by Neville Sotheby Pitcher in 1921 and gifted to the club by Sir Ernest Davis, is presented on a signature silk twill scarf and silk cotton voile blouses. Also from the Squadron’s archives are yachting and coastal imagery taken at Cape Brett which form a picture postcard print on cotton voile seen in easy, cool shirts and an 1857 chart of the Waitematā Harbour surveyed by Captain J. L. Stokes, Commander B. Drury, R.N., and the Officers of H.M.S. Acheron and Pandora, 1848-55 is now rendered on a lustrous silk twill scarf. A classic Karen
Walker navy/white polka dot interspersed with the Squadron’s own crown and anchor both serve to further semaphore the nautical influence. There are several beloved styles from the KW archive recut for this collection in GOTS certified organic cotton and made in Fair Trade Certified™ facilities including the Pintuck Top and Dress, Tie Back Dress, Billow Blouse, Shirred Cotton Blouse, t-shirts and sweatshirts. For this collection, Karen Walker also continued working with Outland Denim and their makers in Cambodia on organic cotton indigo and off-white denim versions of our signature flares and Goldie Jacket.
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colour trending
LELA ROSE Resene Roadster
T
he current colour trend we see on runways, whether it is virtual or not, is the bright and unapologetic shades of red. Bold, bright and confident. Representing undeniable symbols of power, energy and passion, red is definitely a shade you won’t miss on any piece of clothing. Sporty chic hits the runway this season with David Koma’s ready-to-wear Spring 2021 collection. Inspired by the world of female tennis players, the Londonbased designer mainly stuck with the monochromatic colour palette of white and black, however, the standout red colour hue, similar to Resene Havoc,
XANDER ZHOU Resene Poppy
catches our eye in this collection. The asymmetrical hemline of the fitted polo shirt is emphasised with a thick contrasting white piping along the bottom, as well as the sleeves, neckline and collar. Layered over on-trend biker shorts in the same hue, this is the electric red look that will make a statement from the tennis court to the runway. Girly, easy-to-wear but still turning heads. Lela Rose looked to the beauty of nature, sunrises and sunsets for inspiration this Spring season. Lela Rose’s Spring 2021 collection does not shy away from colour, incorporating shades of dusty pinks and pastel blues as well as a killer red hue, like Resene Roadster. High necklines and the
DAVID KOMA Resene Havoc
use of block-colour focuses our attention on the way the fabric drapes and fits. The same red fabric is used in both looks, however, the way each top fits and is made makes these two pieces completely different from one another, despite its similarities in shade. One is ruffled and loose whilst the other is tight-fitted with a unique reverse-scallop hemline. Both incredibly gorgeous and playing with the colour trend of red, perfectly. Osman Yousefzada’s ready-to-wear Spring 2021 collection is deep with thought and meaning. After rebranding and taking back ownership of his company, Yousefzada decided to take a more inclusive approach to fashion by using deadstock fabrics and paying above-
ROKSANDA Resene Code Red
market wages to apparel artisans in India and Pakistan. This Spring collection showcases craftsmanship and skill. This zigzag block print wrap dress, coloured with a beetroot dye like Resene Salsa, is definitely a standout. Full of volume and character. Nothing beats an oversized coat – especially when it’s in a spicy red like Resene Jalapeno. The designers behind Pronounce, Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, have been drawing inspirations from all over the world. This season they drew inspiration from Lhasa, the capital of the Tibetan plateau. A fine balance between functionality, creative expression and tradition, this collection celebrates traditional Chinese styles with a
PRONOUNCE Resene Jalapeno
Tibetan twist. The rope detailing in the print as well as the belt is reflective of the designer’s time in Lhasa. Paired with this lightweight coat, it’s an effortlessly unique look. This notable set by Roksanda is in a gorgeous burgundy hue like Resene Code Red. Paired with minimal accessories and a statement boot, this is the ultimate red look this season. This collection is filled with comfortable pieces to suit the work-from-home lifestyle that is prominent in many of our lives right now. Comfortable yet stylish, the blazer has extended cuffs in a slightly subdued burgundy to give extra visual interest.
OSMAN YOUSEFZADA Resene Salsa
Xander Zhou’s Spring 2020 collection is filled with clean lines and sleek silhouettes. Ranging from a monochromatic and neutral colour palette through to bright yellows, blues, pinks, purples, and our favourite; reds. This head-to-toe look in a crisp red like Resene Poppy, takes design inspiration from traditional Chinese clothing. Red is a popular colour in China, representing happiness, good fortune and luck. Colours of red are often found in celebrations such as weddings and other important occasions. This look features a classic frog button closure on the right along with a modern-style take of a dragon motif. Filled with cultural elements, this look is still incredibly modern and fresh.
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RAVEN + ROSE From the beginning, RAVEN + ROSE has always ignored seasons and replaced them with small, constant capsule collections. With a global customer base, the brand has a sustainability ethos that revolves around collections being designed to interweave with one another. RAVEN + ROSE is known for using the same black power mesh and statin season after season. This is so customers will never be left with a bra and no matching knickers. “Customers can buy a new season item knowing it will match the first purchase they ever made with us,” added designer Jasmine Smith. The latest collection, Bad Choices Make Good Stories, features pieces that are completely see-through, made from black mesh. RAVEN + ROSE is all about naughtiness wrapped up in the notion that you were only being yourself. “‘Bad Choices Make Good Stories’ is a collection that summons all the Bad Bitches to honour their recklessness by admitting their mistakes,” explained Smith. “Which, let’s be fair, over a strong drink and surrounded by your girls, makes for some of the best storytelling moments! This season, we are all for owning bad behaviour.” This capsule collection is made up of three bra styles, three bottom variants, and a pair of shoulder length gloves. “There is no room for shyness with this collection.” RAVEN + ROSE is designed in a way that merges into ready-to-wear effortlessly. It is uncomplicated lingerie which enhances an outfit and adds value as opposed to simply the traditional support and coverage. The new capsule took notes from its previous Salty Bones swimwear collection which was hugely popular. “So we decided to transfer its wearability from the sea to the land,” Smith said. Each piece is perfectly fitted, wickedly minimal, and is an ode to naughty behaviour. This is their fifth year in production, and the brand has only gone from strength to strength. Bad Choices Make Good Stories is dropping mid-November and is available for wholesale enquiries now. For the lookbook and pricing details, please email jasmine@ravenandroselingerie.com.
‘Bad Choices Make Good Stories’ is a collection that summons all the Bad Bitches to honour their recklessness by admitting their mistakes.
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in detail
SYMETRIA Founded in 1999 by designer Vicki Taylor and her husband, Symetria was created to share inspired design to empower women. Symetria has been immersed in fashion for over 20 years designing successful collections for the New Zealand market, Symetria’s most recent collection; SS21 Part 05, is heavily inspired by the wonders of nature. Symetria Part 05 draws its inspiration from the imposing angular forms of volcanic mountains rising sharply on our horizons, then falling effortlessly into rippling lakes. It’s inspired by threaded waterways twisting between black sand beaches, soaring dunes and deserted coastlines. It’s inspired by light skyscapes streaked with cloud formations which are politely interrupted by electric wires criss-crossing
the countryside. Part 05, highlights everything that makes our beautiful world, our home. “Navigating the disruptions of 2020 has required us to reflect on the environment around us. Our landscapes and endless coastlines left quiet and recovering in the absence of the demands of humanity. We have become very aware of how much our presence and speed of life has shaped and changed our environment,” said Taylor. Symetria takes great effort to ensure that, as a brand, their collections tread lightly on our landscape. The style and essence of this collection was captured by the talented New Zealand photographer, Jono Parker. Parker highlights the collection entwined with the natural beauty of New Zealand’s
As a brand in this recovering world, we attempt to do our best and acknowledge there are always things we can do better to constantly improve.
undisturbed landscapes. “Fluidity of form is juxtaposed against structural shapes and distracted angular lines. Strong silhouettes are balanced with a colour palette of neutral hues, white on white tones, the softest sands and pumice greys which reflect our black sand beaches and tussock peaked mountain ranges.” Part 05 uses natural fibres and regenerated textiles from European mills. The designs are created to transform and enhance a wardrobe for years, rather than months. Manufactured responsibly and sustainably right here in New Zealand. “As a brand in this recovering world, we attempt to do our best and acknowledge there are always things we can do better to constantly improve.” Symetria is grounded in wearable pragmatism
characteristic of the brand’s antipodean home. Imbued with a quiet confidence that each garment is designed with longevity in mind, it invites the wearer to explore, personalise and prolong the life cycle of each piece. “Unexpected fabric combinations masterfully crafted with considered details in confident silhouettes are the key elements that define the Symetria brand.” Symetria is a brand for the woman who knows where she’s from and where she’s going, Symetria is expressive of an assuredness without overt dominance. Visit their Auckland showroom for wholesale enquiries or email sales@symetriaconcept.com for more information.
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Alice le Mode Emerging designer Alice Whittle’s brand, Alice le Mode, came about when designing her graduate collection at Massey University. Le Mode is Italian for fashion, and Whittle has always been inspired by Italian designers. Alice le Mode aims to be a space to encourage and ignite the lost art of making your own clothes. Whittle is the sole designer for her brand and enjoys the full creative control she has to grow and steer her brand to whatever direction she desires. Alice le Mode as a label is unique. It promotes the idea of making your own clothing, therefore, the Alice le Mode website showcases step-bystep instructions for each of the pieces within the collection. If you have a crafty fashion gene, then this is your wonderland. However, if making clothes is beyond your skills or scope, made-to-order pieces of Alice le Mode designs are available for purchase. Whittle hopes to connect with those with strong values for sustainable and ethical fashion. Customers can either opt for the pattern to create their own Alice le Mode pieces, or they can purchase a piece and have the pattern and instructions attached for a
project at a later date. The most recent collection by Alice le Mode is called ‘Waste Not, Want It!’ It is a response to the global issue of fast fashion. “Clothing is more meaningful when we make it ourselves, and the most sustainable pieces are the ones made from what we already have,” explained Whittle. The collection was made from fabrics that Whittle had already owned, thus, saving old clothing and fabric from heading straight to landfills. “It has been proven that having a meaningful connection to clothing allows it to last longer, as it is taken care of better.” This collection consists of five different looks, all of which can be mixed-and-matched to create a myriad of different looks. An important element of this collection is the considered use of fabrics. Moreover, the pieces were designed to be approachable, in the sense that it is to capture and encourage people to sew again in whatever skillset or capacity they may have. “This is why I designed in this way, to show anyone, from sewing novices to advanced
dressmakers, that it is a very useful and attainable skill to have and master.” Whittle hopes to continue to share her message and inspire others to create their own clothing. Amongst this uncertain time with the COVID-19 pandemic, Whittle has been providing handmade reusable face masks to her customers, friends and family. “My first thought when I decided to start making masks, was that I wanted to find a way to get more use out of a single mask. My designs always revolve around sustainable practices, so doing double-sided masks made perfect sense.” Alice le Mode offers double-sided masks, allowing customers to get two masks in one. Each side with a unique pattern where you can choose a design that may suit your outfit for the day. “I’m exploring the idea of co-ordinating masks to clothing items, as I’m sure they will be the new normal at least for the current state of the world.” For more information visit www.etsy.com/nz/shop/AliceleMode or email alice.whittle@gmail.com.
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RUBY BOUNTY SPRING 2020 COLLECTION Bounty – RUBY’s Spring 2020 collection is brought to life via a socially-distanced photoshoot. Shot in their head office, this collection was most inspired by colour – most significantly, the watermelon pink for spring that is then juxtaposed with the clean azure blue, crisp white and black. This year, we need a little more colour and sunlight in our lives – RUBY Bounty celebrates what creative director, Deanna, hopes to be a season that keeps on giving. The first print of the season, Lucy, is a lively watercolour floral, printed on their traced-back-tosource Silk Crepe de Chine. The Lucy Silk Dress will answer to all Spring social plans, socially-distanced or not. It’s a classic RUBY piece you will cherish forever. The Kendall Linen dress, on the other hand, celebrates the forever loved puff-sleeve. Coming in vibrant jade and candy pink, it’s a must-have for your wardrobe. When thinking about Spring staples, Deanna was instantly drawn to a 70s ditsy floral. The Bounty Floral is a romantic scattered bouquet in peachy oranges. This collection is bright, fun and girly.
28 I September 2020
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in detail
ALASKAN Alaskan is a brand new label started by fashion designer Carolina Krause. Based in New Zealand, Krause is inspired by Brazilian simplicity and energy. She hopes to build her brand by focusing on beachwear essentials and investment pieces for the modern woman. Alaskan designs are made from thoughtfully sourced materials of the highest of quality from local suppliers in Auckland. Alaskan’s latest Spring/Summer collection, ‘Smells Like Summer’, is a capsule collection with a few essential swimwear items. The main influence behind this collection is the beautiful seaside city, Rio de Janeiro. Brazil is not only known for football or samba, they are also known for their bikini styles. The Brazillian woman is passionate, laid back and carefree. They will never give up an opportunity to lie in the sun at Ipanema or Copacabana. Popular bikini styles in Brazil allow you to show off and celebrate the female
body. Seductive, classy and comfortable. “As a Brazillian woman designing beachwear in New Zealand, I take it as an opportunity to share Brazillian fashion culture when designing a collection made for Kiwis,” explained Krause. The Smells Like Summer collection, though heavily inspired by Brazillian beach culture, it is a seamless mix between Kiwi and Brazillian style. “After analysing both styles, I decided to design bikinis by mixing up ideas from each culture, resulting in a fantastic beachwear collection handmade by myself.” Each piece by Alaskan is handmade by Krause. Krause will take the time to ensure the highest quality of production. Along with this, she has no desire to rush to scale or to chase trends. Alaskan pieces are classic and versatile.
When deciding on a name for Alaskan’s first collection, Krause decided to choose a name that will allow her customers to feel the same sensation that she does when she looks at this collection. “As a Summer lover, I love the different scents of all sorts of sunscreen brands. It always reminds me of summertime, no matter what season we are in.” Just like how a particular sunscreen smells a certain way, finding your perfect Alaskan bikini will instantly remind you of all the different ‘smells’ of Summer. When looking for a retailer to align with, Alaskan heads towards eco-friendly and ethical retailers. Retailers who believe in slow fashion brands like Alaskan, as well as being passionate about fair wages and less waste. To check out Alaskan’s ‘Smells Like Summer’ collection visit www.nzalaskan.com, or for more information email alaskanz@gmail.com.
As a Brazillian woman designing beachwear in New Zealand, I take it as an opportunity to share Brazillian fashion culture when designing a collection made for Kiwis
30 I September 2020
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in detail
DEUCE Kind Soles inhabit the journey to a more sustainable future. It’s time to be kind to each other and the planet we live on. With 70 years of business, Overland Footwear believes that it is time to widen the scope of their commitment to the environment. It's time to take steps towards a more sustainable future. Kind Soles is Overland's considered edit of sustainable styles. Thoughtfully designed in New Zealand, the collection introduces three unisex Deuce sneakers, each playing a part in protecting the planet. The sneakers feature Deuce's new BLOOM Footbed - made from algae biomass, a sustainable, plant-based material that helps clean polluted water. Every pair of Footbed returns 18 litres of clean water to the habitat and clean 11 M3 of air. Jax and Jango, two sneaker styles within the collection, feature an innovative leather-like material called Bio Veg which is made from Bio Polyols primarily derived from field corn. Another sneaker style within this collection, the Gaia, is made with Repreve, a traceable fibre made from recycled oceanic plastic bottles. Overland has ensured all elements of these sneakers are kind, with 100 percent recycled shoe laces and shoe boxes made from 100 percent consumer recycled cardboard. For more information visit www.merchant1948.co.nz/deuce-sneakers or email merchantinfo@overlandfootwear.co.nz.
Made from algae biomass, a sustainable, plant-based material that helps clean polluted water.
32 I September 2020
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