Apparel Magazine // November 2014

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NOVEMBER 2014 VOL 47 NO 10

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THE HUFFER STORY pg 12

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NEWS

APPAREL RADAR

COLOUR TRENDING

THE INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO . . .

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FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter Holiday Showrooming SINCE the explosion in online trading, showrooming has received a bad reputation amongst bricks and mortar retailers.

The practice of showrooming has consumers going into stores to get the look and the feel of the garments, trying it on and then comparing prices on their smart phone or other device before purchasing online somewhere else.

However, new reports are showing that retailers have unlocked the power of ‘reverse showrooming’ or ‘webrooming’. The concept behind this is when consumers go online to research products first, then head into a physical store to complete the purchase.

Despite the concept not being a new one, retailers have started to identify the trend and realize the potential and the opportunity it offers to them.

Another major, powerful referral source for physical stores is social media. If offline retailers can integrate the digital and physical world successfully, reverse showrooming will become a valuable tool to beat e-commerce counterparts on convenience.

Using tactics such as trained and knowledgeable staff, click and collect options and in-store WiFi can all aid in the ‘buy in-store’ process.

The real challenge over the Christmas period will be retailers improving brand loyalty.

“If retailers truly want to outsell the online competition, they have to engage each consumer strategically on his or her mobile device through social, personalized applications and a meaningful mobile web experience,” said Sheri Petras, CEO of CFI Group.

“Brand-level mobile engagement through apps and mobile commerce sites must be utilized to give customers one-touch access to the information they seek, price information, reviews and recommendations and discounts. That’s the only way to build customer relationships that will extend beyond the Christmas period.”

The Apparel team is in the final stages of putting together the 2015 Industry Directory. If you haven’t sent in your form for your FREE listing, send it now, before it’s too late!

Have a great month.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER: AIM GRAIN DRESS IN BLACK MODEL: HARRIE @ UNIQUE MODELS PHOTO: CAITLAN MITCHELL

READS

Halston: Inventing American

by Lesley Frowick Halston’s niece and confidant writes a chronicle of the designer’s life and his glamorous yet minimalist aesthetic that inspired American fashion. Personal archives and early sketches follow the man who created Jackie Kennedy’s signature pillbox hat and styled Liza Minnelli in the 70s.

contributors

Liberty Style JESSICA-BELLE GREER

CAITLAN MITCHELL

THOMAS FOWLER

KATIE SMITH

ANYA ANDERSON

CHRIS WILKINSON

CORINNE COLE

NORRIE MONTGOMERY

Sales & Editorial

Managing Director RedSeed Ltd Christchurch www.redseed.me

Editorial Assistant

Photograher

Partner at AJ Park corinne.blumsky@ ajpark.com Fashion Consultant

Managing Director of Strategists, First Retail Group www.firstretailgroup.com

Trend Analyst, EDITD www.editd.com/blog

by Martin Wood Arthur Lasenby Liberty opened the doors of his Regent Steet shop in 1875 determined that he could change the whole look of fashion in dress and interior decoration. This book explores how Liberty became a leader for aesthetic movements through its design and designers.

Photographer

Yves Saint Laurent PUBLISHER EDITOR SALES & MARKETING SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER PHOTOGRAPHER

CIRCULATION/ADMIN

Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794

Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com

NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2014 NZ Apparel Magazine.

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

2 I November 2014

by Roxanne Lowit Legendary pioneer of backstage fashion photography, Roxanne Lowit, portraits Yves Saint Laurent and his world of fashion from 1978, the year Lowit first met Laurent. With contributions from YSL’s muses and admirers, including Catherine Deneuve, this book represents the backstage experience at YSL’s shows as Lowit experienced it herself.

Your businesses are as varied as our students . . .

. . . let us help you make the best match through work experience and employment options.

CALL Jacqui 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

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NEWS NICK VON K X KINGDOM OF

THE MARKET POPS UP IN PONSONBY

E-commerce site The Market NZ has opened a dynamic new pop-up shop in Ponsonby for November and December 2014. The space offers consumers truly unique and locally made gifts just in time for Christmas.

With a showroom made up of a modern lounge area, quirky kitchen set-up and a fun-loving kid’s bedroom filled with covetable products from The Market’s creators, the pop-up will give the online store a physical presence and sense of community. The Market Breakfast Club at The Market Pop-Up provides complementary Atomic Coffee or Bennetto hot chocolate with Muesli Hub muesli on Fridays between 10am-12pm. Interactive workshops are held every Saturday until 21st December. These events are held by the creators of The Market NZ and will include bespoke jewellery making, fun for dogs and Christmas tree decorating. In an exclusive collaboration with three talented locals, The Market NZ has launched a bespoke limited edition candle. It is hand poured by Joy Candles into a ceramic tumbler by Factory Ceramics with a custom print designed by Toodles Noodles. The action doesn’t stop at the pop-up shop. The Market’s e-commerce store has undergone an exciting design refresh, with an in-store tablet available to order custom items online and have the product delivered direct to your door.

Nick Von K has released another unexpected creation. Founder and designer, Nick Von Klarwill, is to release his first ever T-shirt collection in collaboration with fashion label Kingdom Of. Called The Nick Von K Motorcycle Club, the collection was inspired by cult film, Easy Rider, and Klarwill’s own love for motorbikes and rock ‘n’ roll. There are two t-shirt designs, the panther and the skull.

Both are available as either a t-shirt or tank, in a range of sizes for both men and women. T-shirts will be sold online at nickvonk.com for RRP$69.

G-SHOCK FOR WOMEN

Summer will see G-Shock release the S-Series, the brand’s first collection designed exclusively for women. The G-Shock S Series collection has been designed for the tough, tech-savvy, independent, ambitious and inspiring woman who is seeking a sportswear-inspired timepiece to add to her wardrobe. The brand’s design team reduced the size of the G-Shock case and shortened the strap of the watch for a more feminine, fashion-forward appeal.

ZARA HITS ROADBLOCK IN INDIA CHRISTMAS SPIRIT

The Department Store has launched their Christmas carry bags and wrapping paper for the gifting season. The exclusive puppies and kittens print was designed by Jess Moore at Scizzorface and Mikhail Gherman, creative director of The Department Store. Daniel Roper at The Producer had the bags made. In the true spirit of Christmas, a gold coin donation for a gift-wrapping service is being donated to the SPCA Auckland.

4 I November 2014

International retail giant Zara is finding it tough in India and has reported its slowest sales growth since it entered the country in 2009, despite the country’s rapidly growing middle class and escalating spending power.

Analysts believe this could be due to the fading novelty factor, weak currency and discounting. Zara has 13 stores throughout India but over half of its sales come from Mumbai and Delhi flagships

NEWS

ZIERA NAMED TOP SHOP IN NZ

This month the best shops from around New Zealand have been named in the Retail NZ TopShop Awards. Ziera Shoes in Broadway, Newmarket was named not only the Overall Regional TopShop for the Upper North Island, but also the Supreme TopShop in New Zealand. The brand’s Dunedin store was named runner up for the Fashion, Footwear and Accessory category in their region whilst Riccarton, Christchurch store was named winner for the category and Lynn Mall was runner up in the footwear category for their area.

“We’re incredibly excited and proud to be named Supreme TopShop in New Zealand,” said managing director Andrew Robertson. “We have a great team and pride ourselves not only on the best service but also brilliant product knowledge, so to be recognised for these things specifically is a huge brand endorsement.”

Robertson believes that the awards are a testament to all of the company’s hard work, especially with the recent roll-out of the new branding and store design.

“Plenty of research and work behind the scenes was carried out to ensure our staff and customers had the best environment in which to work and shop,” said Roberston. In each category, a rigorous process of mystery shopping with set criteria formed the basis for what became an incredibly close final decision for judges.

Ziera Shoes was specifically mentioned for prompt, welcoming greeting, excellent customer services offers and friendly staff with excellent product knowledge and a winning sales manner. Retail NZ, formally known as the New Zealand Retailers’ Association, is behind the TopShop Awards.

BEYONCÉ X TOPSHOP

Singer Beyoncé and Sir Philip Green from international retail brand Topshop, have announced the creation of a 50/50 joint venture company, Parkwood TopShop Athletic Ltd formed to produce a global athletic street-wear brand that is to be launched in 2015. The brand will encompass clothing, footwear and accessories across dance, fitness and sports categories ensuring a dynamic fusion of fashion with the highest levels of technical performance.

The global distribution platform will include topshop stores and topshop.com, with many existing and new partnerships also to be explored. “We have been looking at this category as fashion inspired fitness develops,” said Sir Philip. “Creating a partnership with Beyoncé, one of the most hard-working and talented people in the world, who spends many hours of her life dancing, rehearsing and training is a unique opportunity to develop this category.” Beyoncé couldn’t think of a better partner as she continues to grow the Parkwood business. “I have always loved TopShop for their fashion credentials and forward thinking,” said Beyoncé.

“Working with their development team to create and produce a technical and fashion led collection is exciting and I’m looking forward to participating in all aspects of this partnership.” Sir Philip knows there is a lot to achieve in just under a year, but says they are all up for the challenge and look forward to delivering athletic street-wear in an inventive and exciting way.

Summer 2015 Collection Out Now Auckland 64 9 377 7584 Melbourne 61 3 9416 1107 Sydney 61 2 9669 2410

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NEWS CWT 2014 APPOINTS NEW GENERAL MANAGER

NIKE DELIVERS SPEED AND STABILITY

Stability has never been faster with Nike’s new Air Zoom Structure 18. Over the last two decades, Nike designers have debunked the notions that stable means slow. They’ve constantly pushed to make the Nike Structure shoe lighter, smoother and more responsive without sacrificing any of its vaunted stability features. The design of the Structure 18 is a quantum leap from past versions where designers revolutionised it from top to bottom.

The Nike team worked closely with elite athletes such as 10,000m silver medallist Galen Rupp and 3,000m world junior champion Mary Cain for insights to bring the distinctive shoe across the finish line. Rupp, who runs nearly all of his 120 miles per week in the Nike Structure, said the Structure 18 gives him a more stable ride and feels faster all the way through his runs.

Delivering uncompromising stability through the combination of an upper featuring Asymmetrical Dynamic Flywire and a triple-density Dynamic Support system in the midsole.

The new contoured last – created to provide a better fit and more responsive ride, combined with Nike Zoom Air cushioning, provides added toe spring for the snappy, quick-off-theground feel athletes expect from Nike Zoom Air.

Cooper Watkinson Textiles (2014) Ltd would like to welcome Aldo Miccio as its new general manager. Aldo comes to CWT with over 20 years experience in the textiles, fashion and apparel industries in NZ, Australia, Europe and the USA as well as having lived in China in the early 90s working in the apparel industry.

“Aldo has a broad business background and skills set in Senior Management as a general manager and CEO, and brings a new culture and growth drive to CWT,” said Rajiv Kumar, director of CWT. Aldo is keen to firstly ensure that CWT firmly cements its place as Australasia’s number one fashion textiles company where clients are not only guaranteed the highest quality products and service, but will also have access to cutting-edge fashion concepts. As CWT grows into new international markets under the new management structure, the company is set to become Australasia’s leading fabric supplier to Europe and the USA. Aldo is extremely impressed with the wonderfully committed team that he has inherited at CWT. “The team is excited by the new vision for the future under parent company Fashion Biz Limited.

We have many exciting plans for growth, so it’s an extremely exciting time for CWT as well as its staff and clients,” he said.

AUT RESEARCHERS AT TEXTILE CONFERENCE

KATHRYN WILSON OPENS THIRD BOUTIQUE

Three papers by AUT researches have been accepted for the 43rd Textile Research Symposium being held in Christchurch early December. TDL co-director Mandy Smith and PhD student, Jyoti Kalyanji, will be presenting their work on seamless knitting in a New Zealand context. TDL co-director, Frances Joseph and Simon McMaster of Footfalls and Heartbeats will be presenting their work on the subject of smart knit structures. Frances Joseph and TDL manager, Peter Heslop, will be presenting on the collaborative work being undertaken on e-textiles with fellow researchers from Health Science, Engineering, Fashion and Textiles, Colab and the TDL.

Kathryn Wilson has opened a new store in Osborne Street, Newmarket that is a celebration of design and simplicity. Wilson is excited to be a part of the Osborne Lane precinct where she hopes to meet loyal followers in-store over summer. Scotty and Co Construction, who have worked on all three of Wilson’s boutiques, worked with the designer to create a gallery style display of her shoe collection with walls and plinths throughout the store. A pillar of success herself, Wilson has steadily enhanced her business over recent years and has been recognized for her design and business innovation.

Wilson, recently received the Sir Peter Blake Leadership Award, acknowledging not only excellence in her field, but her future potential as a leader in New Zealand.

THE CAREER OF CHOICE EVENS OUT TheCareerofChoice.com was launched in Auckland with retailers, industry partners, training organisations, and career advocates joining to celebrate the Retailworld initiative. Starting with over 100 profiles, TheCareerofChoice.com is a dynamic platform aiming to change perceptions on retail careers. Each profile shares a story by a retail worker to demonstrate the range and depth of positions in the shop front and

support office of retail.

As New Zealand’s third largest employer, retail has an endless number of career opportunities available and Retailworld is dedicated to promoting the exciting reality of an often-underrated industry to attract and retain talent. “It’s great to see so much passion in the industry as we work together to highlight pathways and prospects in our fast-

paced and aspirational sector. By sharing personal career stories it makes the opportunities relatable and tangible; feedback from the market has been overwhelmingly positive,” says Retailworld Marketing Manager Jane Bennett.

TheCareerofChoice.com was created with backing from AUT and ServiceIQ. The website will continue to grow as new submissions are added and retailers are encouraged to nominate their team members to feature and share their stories.

#healthgoth

6 I November 2014

NEWS STYLEYOU A TOOL FOR RETAILERS

Angela Stone

From an early modelling career, Angela Stone now finds herself as a stylist, fashion designer and author. Based in Auckland, Stone has cultivated valuable behind-the-scenes experience and an understanding of how to communicate with fashion styling and clients. Her most recent business endeavour is the innovative and cutting edge Styleyou project, the first fashion stylist eCourse to be made in New Zealand. Stone wanted to create something that was full of valuable advice and teachings while being flexible and accessible. Styleyou gives participants the opportunity to study fashion and styling from the comfort of their own home or on the go, all at a professional level. Her inspiration was the girl next door, the working woman and a mother looking for a foot in the door.

There are five modules to work through at Styleyou, and on completion of the course, participants will be able to successfully determine client colours, identify body shapes and the accessories that would match certain criteria. Alongside this, participants will gain insight into makeup recommendation and skin care. They will learn how to plan and style a wardrobe, communicate effectively with clients and how to set up a fashion styling business. The Styleyou Fashion Stylist eCourse is suitable for anyone wishing to further develop or cultivate his or her skills within the fashion industry. It is also a great tool for retail assistants, who can learn how to style customers and create an ongoing relationship with them to encourage repeat purchases.

TED BAKER WORKS WITH SALVATION ARMY

Ted Baker and The Salvation Army have joined forces this Christmas period to help drive donations and goodwill throughout what can be a difficult time for a lot of people. The brand will be launching the ‘DonaTED’ promotion from Wednesday 26th November. For every donation of old threads to the green wardrobe located in Britomart, Ted Baker will be rewarding participants with 15 per cent off their next Ted Baker purchase. The promotion will run for two weeks.

UK DESIGNER LOOKS TO OPEN FLAGSHIP IN HONG KONG

London fashion designer, Jenny Packham has set sights on opening a flagship in Hong Kong. With Asia being a major market for the brand for the last ten years it would be only fitting to open there.

The retailer is in talks with architects Peter Kirkness and Winnie Cheng to work on the store’s minimal and modern look. Packham’s clients include Miley Cyrus, Kate Hudson and the Duchess of Cambridge.

LVMH EYES SEAFOLLY

Luxury brand LVMH’s Asia-based private equity firm, L Capital has eyes on Australian swimwear retailer Seafolly. This would be the fourth Australian investment for L Capital Asia, building on the current portfolio of RM Williams, Jones the Grocer and sportswear chain 2XU. The Halas family currently own the brand, and are the Australian founders, with Anthony Halas at the helm. Recent successes include the push into the US market, and the company expect to make 25 per cent of its annual revenue. Across 42 countries, annual sales from the brand are in excess of $100 million. The deal is to be announced before the end of the year.

Become a fashion stylist with NZ’s first online eCourse - www.styleyou.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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NEWS KIWI START-UP BREAKS TABOO

NEW STORE FOR SKECHERS

New Zealand based ConfiTEX has announced that it is seeking support for the release of its new underwear range through crowdfunding.

People who experience incontinence, or want to support those who do, can donate to ConfiTEX to help fund their first production run. Confitex are offering a number of rewards for those who donate including receiving a free pair of underwear in their choice of colour, style and size in limited edition signed packaging.

ConfiTEX is an innovative design company that has developed pioneering products for the incontinence market. Its state of the art technology provides an effective and fashionable alternative to current disposable incontinence products, at the same time looking and feeling like regular, quality underwear. “The limited edition packaging is colourful and vibrant which continues ConfiTEX’s aim of saying to those who experience incontinence that they no longer need to use medical utilitarian-looking products,” said co-founder and product design and development manager Frantisek Riha-Scott.

ConfiTEX specialises in the research and development of washable, absorbent, and waterproof underwear.

AGATHA PARIS WINS NEW RETAILER AWARD

Iconic French jewellery brand, Agatha Paris has been awarded the Best New Retailer award at this year’s Westfield Retail Excellence Awards. The winning Agatha Paris Westfield Albany boutique is the first new concept kiosk that transports the classic French Agatha Paris look and feel into a New Zealand shopping mall. After opening in November last year, the concept sparkled through the Westfield judging process, affirming something that already has been a hit with Kiwi women.

“We are absolutely delighted,” said Mitchell Grant, managing director for the brand in Australia and New Zealand. “The team did most of the work with their passion and amazing customer service, while the beautiful Parisian boutique, and gorgeous French fashion jewellery did the rest – just a few reasons why Agatha Paris is so popular.” The brand is eyeing up franchising opportunities in New Zealand and is actively scouting locations for a new flagship boutique in Sydney and Melbourne. Agatha Paris currently has 350 boutiques in 25 countries.

the NUMBERS . . . RETAIL: As of February 2013, the retail trade in New Zealand employs

Global shoe brand Skechers has opened a second retail store in the heart of Auckland City, after sales from its first store have tracked ahead of expectation. Located at 222 Queen Street, the new 147sq metre concept store has the capacity to showcase more than 500 models, including some exclusively stocked styles. The opening comes off the back of strong sales for the brand both in Australia and New Zealand.

General manager for Australia and New Zealand, Brian Maginness said the brand has a strong retail strategy internationally which it has now adopted in this part of the world. “With sales 30 per cent up on last year, we know there is a strong demand for the shoes in this country,” said Maginness.

“We also believe there is room for more stores across both Australia and New Zealand. Queen Street’s opening has taken us to 28 stores across both countries and we anticipate reaching up to 40 stores by the end of 2015.” The first New Zealand

Skechers concept store opened in Auckland’s Westfield St Lukes in November last year and has performed well ahead of expectations.

With demand for the shoes high, Skechers believes a dual own store and independent retailer strategy is right for the market here. “Having Skechers concept stores allows us to reach factory minimums on a wider offering which in turn benefits the consumers in New Zealand and Australia. More sales means more spend on marketing, which then benefits our wholesale independent accounts,” said Maginness.

The brand is on a growth curve in all markets due largely to a focus on product innovation. Skechers GOwalk subcategory has been an outstanding success story, both locally and worldwide. Introduced in 2012 under the Skechers Performance umbrella, Skechers strategy is to be the market leader in the walking category.

AUT ROOKIE CELEBRATES 10 YEARS One of New Zealand’s most prestigious fashion events, Rookie, is celebrating 10 years of profiling the best work for AUT University fashion design students. “We have been very excited about this year’s event and the students have truly pushed the boundaries with their work,” said Andreas Mikellis, HOD of Fashion Design at AUT. “Over the past ten years Rookie has showcased some of the best emerging talent in New Zealand. We have also introduced the graduate showroom at Sed 10, an exhibition format that has been developed to include a broader selection of our final year students’ work.”

“This year we worked with designers who have graduated in the past decade and now working for numerous accomplished New Zealand brands such

as Huffer, Ruby, Workshop, Hallenstiens, Crane Brothers, Karen Walker, Kate Sylvester and Taylor. Our alumni are also achieving global recognition including designers such as Nadeesha Godamunne with Ralph Lauren in New York and Sam Thorpe for British menswear label Universal Works.”

3rd

Retail is the largest industry in the country, employing over 10% of the New Zealand population.

196,290 people across 25,988 businesses.

The retail trade accounts for

5.5% of business

establishments in New Zealand.

SOURCE: Frontline Retail

8 I November 2014

NEWS PAC BRANDS SELLS SHOE BRANDS

BOOHOO OPENS FIRST PHYSICAL STORE

E-tail giant, Boohoo has opened their first store in a nearly 4000 square foot site in New York’s suburb of SoHo earlier this month. The store was a bi-level pop up for a month with the prices at Boohoo reflecting that of Supré and Glassons and its production cycles nearly as fast as retail giant Zara, the company is in a perfect position to take on the US market.

New items arrive on the site weekly and apparel has a life cycle of four to six weeks, with a low buying level across a vast number of styles leaving no room for discounting. The marketing team is comprised of more than 70 people and the company have a smaller menswear branch that currently represents five per cent of sales. “If I talk about our product strategy, it’s of newness,” cofounder and chief executive officer Carol Kane told a US publication. “We have 500 lines delivered every single week. You can’t support what we do very easily in a store environment. You can have a collection here, but it’s going out of stock as quickly as it’s going in.”

The e-tailer has already entered the markets of US, New Zealand, Australia and Ireland. Established retailers, Zara and H&M, are currently the faces of fast fashion and have worked from bricks and mortar to online.

Boohoo is working from the digital side, looking to grow in the offline world. “We don’t see it as an assault on these players, as our strength is online and their strength is bricks and mortar,” Kane said. A permanent physical store isn’t on the cards for the brand just yet. “I’m asked that all the time,” she said. “My business partner has a great answer: ‘why would I open a store when I can open a country.” The e-tailer is based in England and employs just fewer than 1000 staff.

Pacific Brands has sold a variety of its shoe and clothing brands, including Volley, to various buyers for $39 million.

Private equity firm Anchorage Capital Partners has bought Volley, Hush Puppies and Clarks, while a UK company that owns the brands outside of NZ and Australia has bought Dunlop and Slazenger.

A loss of $30 million is said to be incurred

by Pacific Brands. The sale of these brands is a bid to increase focus on leading brands Bonds and Sheridan. “While this has been a complicated divestment to execute, the transactions are all unconditional and should be completed within two weeks with minimal disruption to customers and our core business,” said CEO, David Bortolussi. “From a pricing perspective, the divestment represents good value to our shareholders for an unprofitable division.” Pacific Brands will consider further investment in its remaining brands, stores and distribution to build shareholder value.

BOB SHEPHERD MENSWEAR CLOSES ITS DOORS

After 68 years of trading, Bob Shepherd Menswear will be closing its doors and handing over to one of New Zealand’s fastest growing menswear retail brands, Rembrandt, following the opening of its first South Island store in Dunedin later this month. The changing of hands follows a lengthy history between the two brands, which have worked alongside each other since both established in 1946, and will see a refreshed focus for the tailoring outfit. Rembrandt’s head offices in Wellington, houses the last tailoring factory of its type in either Australia or New Zealand. The company has been supplying expertly crafted garments to stores across New Zealand including Bob Shepherd for more than 60 years. Rembrandt retail manager Chris Harford said the rapidly changing nature of retail and consumer behaviour has demanded a change of focus in the industry and Rembrandt has structured its business accordingly. In the last three years, Rembrandt has developed an omni-channel retail presence including a growing online shop, three stores in Sydney, four in Auckland and the Dunedin store being its first in the South Island.

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NEWS COTTON ON OPENS NEW AUCKLAND FLAGSHIP

Continuing to grow its global footprint, Australianbased retailer, Cotton On Group, has opened its largest New Zealand store in Queen Street, Auckland.

The innovative retail space spans an impressive 1400 square metres, over two levels and houses collections from Cotton On, Cotton On KIDS, FREE by Cotton On, Cotton On BODY, Rubi Shoes by Cotton On, and for the

first time in New Zealand, T-Bar. The mega shopping experience will be the Cotton On Group’s 133rd store in New Zealand, demonstrating the retail powerhouse’s commitment to investing in the local market. Cotton On general manager, Felicity McGahan, said she’s thrilled to open the brand’s biggest New Zealand store, right in the hub of Auckland. “There is no other Cotton On store in New Zealand quite like our new Queen St store. Its sheer size is impressive and will allow us to offer shoppers an enhanced in-store experience,” said McGahan.

Innovative store design elements include a living front window display, which allows for greater customer engagement, and a specific denim destination area in the store’s basement. “There’s great scope for the canvas to evolve with a living window display. It breaks down the barriers of traditional shop windows and allows customers to interact with our latest offers. It becomes a rotating space for activations, launches and product,” McGahan said.

In keeping with the original aesthetic of the building at 238 Queen St, the dramatic space maintains heritage finishes and boasts exposed concrete slabs and brickwork, is a nod to Cotton On’s brand personality.

ICEBREAKER LAUNCHES ECO-FRIENDLY TOUCHLAB Icebreaker has announced the launch of its newest retail TouchLab in Ponsonby, Auckland. Designed with eco-friendly elements incorporated throughout, the latest addition to Icebreaker’s global retail TouchLab program sits at the centre of the neighbourhood’s world-renowned restaurant district in the heart of the fashion community. “At Icebreaker we are dedicated to protecting the environment so that future generations may enjoy adventures in nature,” said Rob Fyfe, CEO of Icebreaker. “We are very excited to introduce Ponsonby to our newest TouchLab, which reflects our eco-friendly design standards and commitment to creating sustainable work environments.”

The Ponsonby TouchLab is the 24th location in Icebreaker’s global network of retail stores, which

includes a network of twelve North American stores in major international cities, including Montreal, San Francisco, New York, Vancouver and Chicago.

As Icebreaker enters its third decade, the brand has grown into the world’s largest merino outdoor apparel company with over 5,000 wholesale doors in 50 countries, contributing to New Zealand’s agriculture industry by utilising 25 per cent of the country’s merino wool supply.

The new store will feature Icebreaker’s complete line of innovative merino wool apparel, including Outdoor, Run/Fitness, Kids, Underwear and Travel/Lifestyle collections and Socks and Accessories, all made from merino wool sourced from the Southern Alps of New Zealand.

DEBRA FALLOWFIELD OPENS IN PORT CHALMERS Debra Fallowfield’s bespoke jewellery boutique Precious has opened in Port Chalmers, Dunedin.

Known for well loved contemporary fine jewellery, Debra Fallowfield’s creates modern icons and now neighbours the historic and creative hub of Port Chalmers.

Fallowfield’s husband Dean Brewster designed and created the whole store by hand, no CAD was used. He turned an orange walled second hand clothing shop into a bespoke boutique. Brewster, previously a shopfitter for Shears & Mac, has incorporates curved walls and sculptural elements

10 I November 2014

such as cut outs and cabinets sunk in to the wall to mirror Debra Fallowfield’s design aesthetic. State of the art lighting with LED dimmers welcomes customers into the store and creates a unique experience. There is even a pivoting wall to create more space and a back area for stock. Currently, Precious stocks Debra Fallowfield jewellery only, but Fallowfield hopes to stock a community of local artists in the future.

Fallowfield’s large and local clientele will be in awe of this sleek shop that puts all focus on her beautiful work.

FABULEUX VOUS

Helen Thompson-Carter and her team at Fabuleux Vous have been in the jewellery industry for a number of years. They love the industry for the mix of tradition, fashion, fine jewellery, family and the strong relationships that come with this. Thompson-Carter believes that young talent emerging in the New Zealand fashion and jewellery industry is outstanding and needs to be nurtured. Fabuleux Vous is lucky to have Rebecca Adams, 29, producing designs that are notably helping their export market grow. It is the craftsmanship and art aspects of Fabuleux Vous’ pieces that fascinate Adams, who handcrafts very intricate pieces with a vintage feel. Fabulous Vous is all about being ‘Fabulous’. Their brands, collections, colours all complement each other and encourage people to be individual, whatever that may mean for each customer.

They create unique and different pieces for everyday people to love and support. The Fabuleux Vous team care for their industry and are excited about its future. They hope to work collectively with both the jewellery and fashion sector and their dream is to deliver beyond expectation, not just in New Zealand but abroad. View the Fabuleux Vous range as a retailer at ApparelBuyersLounge.com or go to FabuleuxVous.com.

GEORGIA ALICE WINS DHL FASHION EXPORT AWARD

Designer Georgia Alice Currie has been awarded the $10,000 DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship this year with her eponymous label, further establishing herself as one of New Zealand’s top emerging fashion exporters.

Now in its seventh year, the DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship is designed to identify New Zealand’s top up and coming fashion exporters and assist them in achieving international growth. Christchurch born, Georgia decided to enter the fashion industry through a development programme at Australian department store David Jones. Following her return to Christchurch, Georgia set up her own label in Auckland in 2012. “I am beyond thrilled to have been awarded the DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship,” said Currie. Georgia Alice is currently stocked throughout Australasia and North America, and through the DHL support will be able to continue to see growth in export. Other finalists included Sly Guild and Lucy McIntosh.

NEWS JEWELLERY PERFECTION AT PMGS

OPSM FACE SHAPES PROJECT

OPSM has teamed up with world-renowned face shape expert Dr. Kendra Schmid to analyse face shapes across Australia in its latest face shapes project. They adopted fashion photographer and street style blogger ‘The Face Hunter’ to take photographs of a cross section of faces to determine different face shapes. Prior to beginning the project, there was thought to be only four face shapes, however Dr Kendra Schmid’s found there to be an additional five shapes that faces can be categorised by.

In addition to round, oval, square, and heart she found kite, rectangle, teardrop, heptagon and oblong. Interestingly the most popular face shape was kite. With this research OPSM are working to make it easier for customers to find eyewear that suits their face structure. “Working with 14 different facial measurements ensures that unlike previous assumptions that would bucket someone into the square category as they had a square jaw line, we are taking into account all differentiating features of the face structure to determine the shapes,” said Dr Schmid.

The Peter Minturn Goldsmith School (PMGS) educates and trains students to a professional standard in the arts, crafts and design of the jeweller goldsmith. A key focus for the PMGS is confidence and personal growth along with the knowledge and skillsets to gain employment, and remain in the jewellery trade.

Award winning jeweller, Julian Bartrom of Julian Bartrom Designer Goldsmith, started his business after studying a PMGS. “In New Zealand, Peter Minturn is like the grandfather of the jewellery industry and his business acumen and design intuition rubs off on you. Peter gave us the fundamentals so that we could

make anything to the highest standard of perfection,” said Bartrom.Founder of the school, Peter Minturn, was invested in 2008 with a Member of New Zealand Order of Merit for services to jewellery manufacturing. The school is a family business with son and daughter, Chris and Lee-Anne Minturn, also helping to run the school.

PMGS delivers NZQA approved qualifications at Levels 4, 5 and 6 in Goldsmithing and Jewellery making, offering recreational courses that cover a range of skills. Each class takes 9-11 students and an interview is required over educational pre-requisite for full time courses.

NEW STORE, NEW LOOK FOR SUPRÉ Supré, which was acquired by the Cotton On Group last October, has opened a new-look store this month. After experiencing great change and growth, the Queen St Supré store is in the early stages of an exciting roll out of store launches across Australia and New Zealand.

The Cotton On Group plans to modernise the business

and amp up its trend offering. General manager for the brand, Elle Roseby says she is thrilled to introduce the community to the new look Supré store on Queen St. “The store is part of a retail facelift that will take place across Supré Australia and New Zealand,” said Roseby.

“We are completely changing the look and feel of our stores, as well as the shopping experience for consumers.

Customers will see that the new store is much easier to shop – there will be a dedicated area for those essential and affordable basics, while the season’s key trends will be merchandised together so shoppers can get their fashion fix.” “Supré is in the midst of modernising the brand, making product more on-trend while still delivering the exceptional value Supré is known for.

We have a new design team focused on meeting the wardrobe needs of our customer - from staple everyday pieces to on-trend party looks - and a new Visual Merchandising team committed to ensuring our stores look their best.”

Unique, New Zealand designed jewellery to express the essence of you.

There’s nothing else like it.

Just like you.

sales@fabuleuxvous.com • Helen : (+64) 0274203137 apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 11

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

BRANDprofile

The Huffer Story From humble beginnings as a practical brand for the boardsports market, Huffer has come a long way in its 17-year history and this month celebrates the launch of an effortlessly beautiful and wearable collection for women, aim.

Known for their innovation and taking seasonal campaigns to the next level, Huffer launched aim at an exhibition style showcase in the Huffer Basement during NZ Fashion week. The Huffer Basement has become the creative hub of the brand, where creative strategy and design is unleashed in a truly inspirational space. The robust infrastructure has allowed the brand to grow from its outerwear roots to an aspirational streetwear label for men and women, now with the launch of aim, to a sophisticated line for women.

Co-founder and director of the brand, Steve Dunstan stays true to his beginnings through his passion for purpose. Although the streetwear garments are designed to be ahead of the trends, Dunstan also takes pride in its functionality. As a wholesaler and a retailer Dunstan knows that patience is a virtue and likes the customers to feel as though they can stay a while and be able to socialise, even offering coffee in-store.

After gaining Area 51 in Wellington as its first stockist outside of the sports and outerwear category, the brand has grown into the fashionable higher price point offering with ease. A career milestone for Dunstan was when Orlando Bloom donned the iconic Huffer t-shirt on the red carpet premiere of Lord of the Rings, reflecting the brand’s growing success.

“The fax machine was running out of paper and we really felt like we were going somewhere,” said Dunstan. “It was getting out of control in a good way and we were thinking of what we could do next. Opportunities were coming our way and we were overwhelmed with interest in the brand.”

After battling through the global financial crisis and tough retail conditions, Huffer has pulled through the challenging times by defining and building the brand with a long term strategic plan firmly in place. The mix of wholesale, retail and online strategies work well for the brand in the current retail climate.

The debut capsule collection from aim speaks to the naturally confident, and relaxed modern woman. Elegant detailing in both structured and draped looks, accent high quality fabrics of a zesty colour palette. A range of clean and simple silhouettes, in silk crepe de chine, fresh brocade and coated cotton linens, the collection is the ultimate sophisticated summer wardrobe.

Huffer currently have over 100 doors across Australia and New Zealand, as well as four flagship stores including their online offering.

aim Lennie Dress in White

aim Neptune Singlet in Black aim Lily Skirt in Yellow Floral

Huffer Spezial Tee aim True Pant in Black aim Raglan Kimono Top in Khaki aim True Pant in Black

12 I November 2014

Photographer: CAITLAN MITCHELL

Hair & Make-Up: GRAYSON COUTTS

Photo Assistant: KAYLA LITCHFIELD

Model: HARRIE @ UNIQUE MODELS

inDETAIL

ANDREA MOORE AW15 Wink Wink

It all began with a movement. Surrealist writer Max Ernest once said, “creativity is that marvellous capacity to grasp mutually distinct realities and draw a spark from their juxtaposition.”

ANDREA Moore’s Autumn Winter 15 collection – titled Wink Wink – celebrates a movement rooted in spontaneity and irreverence with styles mixing texture, proportion, print and colour in unexpected measure.

The collection’s namesake winking eye icon is a powerful yet cheeky example of the surrealist influence and is evident throughout the season’s signature prints and embellishments. Monochromatic ivory and black injected with pops of tangerine, a graphic zigzag print and masculine tailoring are softened by eye-catching detail, speaking to the defiant attitude that runs through the collection.

Waterproof fabrications, floral Liberty prints, polka dots and more equine references – with a regal, vintage twist – paint Wink Wink as a feminine yet sport luxe showcase of Moore’s skills. The hallmark of the Andrea Moore aesthetic features extensively along with tailored designs and cuts engineered to slim and lengthen the body.

With a hawk eye for detail, Moore features asymmetric dresses, seamless A-frame capes, ankle skimming pants and crisp circle skirts highlight the craftsmanship and skill required to execute such a refined offering.

Given the collection is driven by voices of the surrealist movement, each piece balances the next without becoming overwhelmed in an art style that challenges the methods of traditional convention. Moore has created a multifaceted narrative with Wink Wink, allowing the wearer to build a story of her own.

By Thomas James

Bee Dee Bags are the experts in retail packaging, supplying high quality custom made products including paper bags, plastic bags, reusable fabric bags, boxes, postal satchels and tissue paper.

Bee Dee Bags clientele range from the single store to some of the countries largest chain stores. Become a part of the Bee Dee Bags PO Box 302-493 North Harbour, Auckland 0751

Phone: 0800 232 710 Fax: 0800 232 310 www.beedeebags.co.nz

network and experience our high level service, quality product and economical prices.

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

View these brands and more on ApparelBuyersLounge.com

MOCHA SALT Life is very busy with the Metekingis both being in full time employment while developing Wynter Collective, but they love being busy. The Metekingis gain inspiration from their surroundings, mixing ideas together and creating garments they have always wanted to wear.

Wynter Collective places some special features on their garments to separate them from what is already on the market. They listen to their customers and include their suggestions into the design. Wynter Collective plans to stick to their roots while building a highly recognized label known for quality streetwear. They aim to have garments sold through retail stores not only in New Zealand but also worldwide, while hoping to eventually open their own independent store in New Zealand. For more information, contact Levi and Alisha at wyntercollective@gmail.com.

EMA FROST Mocha Salt creates truly transitional swim shorts. They are so functional they can be used for swimming, hiking or biking, while being tailored for the city streets.

Founder of the company, Rik van Donk, studied Industrial Design and has previously worked on Nike-Philips’ sports music range and Atomic Floyd headphones. “Even though the products are different, the common themes of innovation and quality and the passion for creating, can add value to any product or service,” says Van Donk.

In their local garment district in Sydney, Mocha Salt found a family run operation specialising for thirty years in high end garments to work with their 23-piece pattern. This local production ensures quality control and ongoing innovation at Mocha Salt.

The shorts have a slimmer profile than most swim shorts and an abovethe-knee cut for a confident, tailored look. The material used is a lightweight woven nylon from Japan that feels like cotton but is very durable. Light in the water and quick-drying out of it, it wears to the body and softens with age.

Mocha Salt shorts are built to last with reinvented Swiss snap buttons, high quality self-locking zippers from Italy, lining-covered fly for extra protection and comfort, and side-tabs for easy size adjustment. Their pockets have mesh inserts to allow sand and air to flow through. The shorts are available in a range of imaginative colours, including whalebone red, undertow blue and seafern orange and come in block colour either left plain, overlaid with a diamond grid stencil or contrasted with a paisley effect. All shorts include a lightweight towel with strap that can roll up and dry the shorts in no time.

For the future, Mocha Salt has ideas for other clothing areas where function has limited style for no other reason than legacy.

For more information, contact Rik at rikvandonk@mochasalt.com.

WYNTER COLLECTIVE

Husband and wife team Levi and Alisha Metekingi named Wynter Collective after their dream name for a future child, Wynter.

Wynter Collective is a men’s and women’s streetwear label that celebrates modern, colourful and architectural clothing.

After two years on a service mission for his church overseas, Levi returned home to New Zealand and learnt how to sew. Finally, a long-term concern of not being able to find clothes the way he wanted them to be designed was solved. Friends and family began to ask for custom garments and as demand began to grow Alisha encouraged Levi to start a small label with her.

The Metekingis both grew up in Hamilton with Levi gaining a diploma in Business Management at Wintec and Alisha gaining a teaching degree at the University of Waikato and a certificate in Business Management.

14 I November 2014

Ema Frost welcomes consumers into a vibrantly magical world of art, fashion and homeware. The mediums that give life to her work are as varied as the art itself. Her characters can be found on cushions, lampshades, stools, cell phone covers, T-shirts as well as greeting cards, framed prints and ceramics. They even made a debut appearance at this year’s Auckland Fashion Week. Frost is also to release a stamp collection, just in time for the mad Christmas card send off.

The colourful land of Frost’s imagination is inspired by the legends and mythologies of Maori and Japanese folklore, with which Frost has been enthralled with since childhood. She marries the two cultures with harmonious cohesion giving her work its signature dreamlike style. Frost’s art is multidimensional and far from ordinary. Looking closely at her work, one notices that nothing is as it seems. Her images are brimming with life that jumps out from the page when you know where to look.

Be sure to keep abreast with the charming world of Ema Frost by following her on Facebook or checking out her website www.emafrost.co.nz.

WILSON TROLLOPE

Wilson Trollope designer Annabelle Wilson has gone from an Otago history graduate to a Wellington fashion designer.

Annabelle has the ability to pick up skills and has used her initiative when sourcing manufacturers for her samples and production.

Annabelle loves fashion and is committed to her brand. At about three years of age Annabelle was not invited to her parent’s dinner party so she made her very first dress in the hope that they reconsider. Raiding her mother’s sewing room she made a bright pink tube dress with appliqué flowers from the garden cellotaped on. Annabelle is still in love with fabric, colour and prints.

She describes Wilson Trollope’s aesthetic as feminine. The brand focuses on skirts and dresses with an interest in structured garments for the female form. Wilson Trollope was featured in the New Generation show at NZ Fashion.

For wholesale enquiries, please Annabelle at annabelle@wilsontrollope.com.

BABY BUNDLES

BabyBundles began when Chris Fitzgerald welcomed his premterm twins into the world and saw just how much clothing was needed to keep babies warm and healthy. Unable to find any merino sleep sacks, Fitzgerald made some up with the help of his motherin-law, a professional seamstress.

The BabyBundles range has grown as a result of Fitzgerald’s own children growing, and because retailers have asked for more BabyBundles products.

The BabyBundles family now include baby clothing, sleepwear and kids clothing.

All clothing is manufactured exclusively in New Zealand by professionals in Auckland and Wellington with more than twenty years experience in the fashion industry. The merino is supplied by Levana in Levin. Situated between the Tararua mountains and the sea, Levana uses the water from the underground water tables of the Tararua Ranges to treat their merino wool. This means that the merino BabyBundles uses is chemical free and very special. BabyBundles products are extremely well made, providing long lasting products that are easy to care for. For wholesale enquiries contact Chris on 0212801953 or email babybundlesnz@yahoo.co.nz.

BONDI WASH

“The French have been making use of their native plants for centuries. Why can’t we do the same? ”Belinda Everingham had this evocative idea in mind when she founded her home fragrance brand Bondi Wash. Hand wash, body wash, mist spray, dog wash, gift packs and more make up her product range that has a unique fragrance and anti-bacterial power. Bondi Wash works well for fashion retailers in particular because it makes a great gift, it is a repeat purchase and it is something a little ‘special’. A quote from a customer of Bondi Wash’s local Bondi stockist Girl & Graaf confirms: “Damn, it’s addictive”. “Bondi Wash really sits on its own as our products are across a range of categories. The ingredients are the most natural of all brands we have come across in every category,” says Everingham.

By using exotic Australian Bush Oils as a base for perfume then mixing them with a luxurious mix of other essential oils and natural ingredients, Bondi Wash products are truly distinctive. Better yet, they are non-toxic, bio-degradable and contain ingredients sourced from the best Australian suppliers.

Bondi Wash is Currently launching in Hong Kong with chain store 10/10 HOPE that sells very natural and beautiful international brands and is managed

by Space NK Apothecary, the company that introduced Aesop into Asia.

Everingham’s vision is to continue to develop quality products. Bar soaps, an anti-bacterial hand spray & gel, a baby range, glass spray, laundry wash, dish wash and hand lotion are all to be released soon.

For more information, contact Belinda at belinda@bondiwash.com.au.

LOVE KNOT WAR

Alyssha Cox planned to study Fashion Design at Tauranga Polytechnic, however moved into retail after becoming pregnant with her first child. After having her second child seven years later Cox, has been a stay-at-home mother but decided to follow her love of design and started her own online store Little Boos boo-tique. Named after her daughter, with the nickname Boo, Cox wanted to bring something a little different and unique to childrenswear with this online clothing store.

Love Knot War is Cox’s label that she sells through Little Boos Boo-tique. The label focuses on quality simplistic designs for stylish kids with comfort always in mind. Her latest Summer collection for Love Knot War, My Little Sunshine, is designed to take kids from beachwear to evening wear, using bright and bold statement prints that reflect the summertime mood of bright and cheerful children. Cox brings out a new collection two to three times a year and is always creating new items to add to her online store and Facebook page.

Love Knot War is completely New Zealand designed and is made from the heart. Cox wants the little people that wear her clothing to feel unique and special so she makes a point to never mass produce any items. The goal for Love Knot War is to grow and be stocked in a range of boutiques both in New Zealand and Internationally. For wholesale enquiries, contact Alyssha on 027 3653810 or at info@littleboosbootique.co.nz.

MANIKS

Maniks is a streetwear based clothing company with a creative crew working in Papatoetoe. Since their beginning in 2011, Maniks has brought together their underground culture and design skills to create a classy, clean and minimal look for streetwear. Founder and designer Jeeta x, had always been interested in streetwear clothing and noticed a few things in the New Zealand streetwear scene that I could capitalise on. Quality basics and streetwear based on a definitive style rather than current trends was needed. A streetwear brand that focussed on female clothing was also hard to find. x brought her idea to a bunch of friends with similar interests and together these friends formed Maniks. It’s a creative outlet that allows the friends to work together. They all play different roles for the brand and all have a great time doing so. It’s a great way to pursue financial freedom while doing what they love.

Each letter of ‘Maniks’ represents a place where the firends have been, are from, or are planning to go. The individual letters represent Malaysia, Auckland, New Zealand, Kuala Lumpur, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah and Suva, all of which are the places where this brand was formed, where the original founders were born, where they live and where the business started. The I stands for International which is the direction we plan to take this brand. Maniks is also a slang word for x’s city, Manukau. Maniks goal is to consistently strive for perfection, maintain a unique style and provide people with quality apparel.

For wholesale enquiries, please contact Jeeta at maniksnz@gmail.com.

RK & CO

Designer and founder of RK&Co, Robert Key, has been many stylish things. A cabinet maker, musician and set designer for film and television. He is now designing bags, belts and cuffs. Locking himself up in his workshop, Key perfects his bespoke products.

RK&Co bags are elegantly simple and made with hand-picked leather and canvas. Key describes leather and canvas as familiar materials with enduring qualities. With a little love they have a natural patina that improves with age. Key has created his own buckle range, designed in the more traditional ‘Garrison’ style of full buckle. These are custom-made using a spincast process in Auckland from a zinc alloy, then electroplated in an antique silver or brass finish. RK&Co’s guiding principle is to maintain a design-and-build integrity.

For more information please contact info@rkandco.com

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I 15

COLOUR TRENDING

Resene Heirloom ETRO

PERUVIAN PERUVIAN Nestled in Western South America lies a culturally diverse melting pot of inspiration.

Peru has long served as the go-to visual stimuli for designers with its culture translated into fashionable mainstream garments. From tapestry prints to organic earthy tones, this season’s runway was a multitude of stories with Peruvian roots.

Resene Cobalt ROBERTO CAVALLI

16 I November 2014

ROBERTO Cavalli captivated the audience with an eclectic and somewhat psychedelic collection, taking colours from across the spectrum and treating them to a bohemian silhouette. Although this full-length gown read more like a silk tapestry, incorporating a colour similar to Resene Cobalt.

Stepping away from star power prints, Mary Katrantzou experiments with lace, jacquards, and brocades. The collection harnessed the power of symbols and symmetry, using “professional” insignia like badges and crests in a tribal context. Keeping the silhouette clean and streamline, Katrantzou let the embellishments speak for themselves without the often-distracting element of complex cuts. In a colour similar to Resene Red Planet, the deep maroon keeps this dress grounded in earthy tones.

Hailing from an Italian family known for its fine textiles, Veronica Etro was well equipped for her latest experiment with textures, patterns and colours. The collection experimented with trends like blanket dressing, with some pieces looking as if they were created from heritage rugs. It was a showcase of comfort and culture with playful use of embellishment to keep things interesting. Similar to Resene Heirloom, the

Resene Double Barbecue EMILIO PUCCI

Resene Code Red PETER PILOTTO

Resene Candy Floss THAKOON

Resene Wilderness SONIA RYKIEL Resene Kournikova A DETACHER

greys in this collection are suitably named for Etro’s trip down memory lane in the exploration of Italian classics.

House of Holland created a psychedelic pantsuit, showcasing an array of neons and floral prints that mixed natural elements with synthetic influence. This floral print is a downplayed outfit in comparison to other pieces in the collection, with a green similar to Resene Watercourse. Described as “a gang of HOH harlots,” the models carried Holland’s creations with attitude, taking the already off the walls collection to the next level for light comedic relief.

For the men, Kolor produced a collection with a high dose of colour. Designer Junichi Abe said, “formal is boring. Life needs to be exciting. It needs lots of salt and pepper.” And the collection was far from boring. The playful use of fabrics was treated with a heavy-handed approach to colour, with nearly every piece showcasing Abe’s need to spice up the selection for men this season. This two-piece striped outfit is broken up with orange similar to Resene Adrenalin making each piece fresh and unique.

Resene Red Planet MARY KATRANTZOU

Resene Adrenalin KOLOR Resene Twizel DRIES VAN NOTEN

Resene Watercourse HOUSE OF HOLLAND

Colours available from Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz 0800 737 363 apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

EDUCATION

CLASS OF 2014 CARRIE-ANNE HAMPSON, DAS TRAINING SOLUTIONS

her stance on fashion design.

“It’s motivating to be part of an industry that affects everyone whether they like it or not. Clothes are essential, and it’s so exciting to create these garments that aid people’s daily life. I know it’s a bit cheesy but when you put something on that you love, your whole mood just lifts and you have a better day,” said Fitzgerald.

Rather than sketching, Fitzgerald opts to work with the fabric to construct a concept that is often notrepresented on paper. The problems are solved through the process, and could never be foreseen on a flat drawing.

Her garments utilise intricate pattern cutting and construction methods to draw attention to detail, explaining why she opts to work in more muted and natural tones. It’s then no surprise that Fitzgerald’s inspiration is drawn from architecture, mimicking and enhancing the lines she sees used in various building designs.

“I love the sense of achievement when the design is resolved and there is this visual, tactile ‘thing’ that speaks to you. It’s really fun watching people trying to interpret what you’ve done, and more often than not they read things from it that may not align with your intention,” explained Fitzgerald on the conceptualisation of design.

After already experiencing international influence in her study exchange to Nottingham, Fitzgerald is excited to remain in New Zealand to complete her Masters degree.

Born and raised in Wales, Carrie-Anne Hampson moved to Auckland when she was nine. With a love for creating things, her true passion for fashion started after the birth of her daughter. “I started making her little headbands and hair-ties, they escalated to skirts and tops,” said Hampson.

“They were hand sewn, which took a horrendous amount of time and I had no idea what I was doing, but I decided then that I wanted to develop my love for designing and creating.” Having never used a sewing machine, she started the Garment Assembly Level 3 course offered at DAS as well as the Advanced Pattern Making Level 4. “So far I have taken part in a fashion show run by DAS and have designed garments for Miss World New Zealand contestants and for a Miss Intercontinental contestant. I feel that this is just the beginning of my career.”

Hampson finds inspiration in people, stories, movies, songs, scenery or a moods.

Creativity is high on Hampson’s list of things that matter most. “I try not to limit myself or follow other people too much, and let my imagination run free. As a result, more often than not I come up with some very interesting designs.”

Leather, denim and lace are fabrics and textiles that she loves as she finds them easy and fun to work with. Hampson’s dream job is to be a buyer or fashion stylist, but for now she is happy to start from the shop floor and work her way up.

ASTI ALEXANDER, NZ ACADEMY OF FASHION

SHANI LO, NZ FASHION TECH

After graduating from the University of Auckland with a Bachelor of Marketing, Shani Lo joined the student team at New Zealand Fashion Tech to pursue a career in the fashion industry. Currently finishing up a diploma in fashion technology, Lo is excited to venture into the world of creative industries, thirsty for experience in creative direction or design.

“There are so many inspiring designers in the world. Rad Hourani for his point of view, and Mary Katrantzou for her creative prints and imagination,” said Lo. The focus for Lo is in the versatility of a garment, letting the clothes fit with a customer’s lifestyle. Each piece is designed to be comfortable, with a good cut and proportion to suit the person wearing it. Lo has had most of her success working in wool, utilising elements of breathability and handling to create conceptualised ideas without sacrificing wearability.

“My ultimate goal is to start a contemporary fashion brand, and being able to work with a team of great, creative people to produce a range of excellent products.”

The pin drop moment is what drives Lo to keep working, the feeling she gets when she finally decides on a design and knows deep down that it is going to be a success.

Watching her ideas form into reality is the golden experience with Lo in her design process. Without closing herself off to international adventures, Lo plans to remain in New Zealand to build her portfolio and experience, growing her design vision before unleashing her ideas into the global market.

Auckland based student Asti Alexander is in the final stages of completing her Diploma at NZ Academy of Fashion.

Her love for sewing and design drew her to study fashion and develop her passion into a career. She believes that craftsmanship and design features are the most important quality of garment. “If you make something expensive then it should look visually appealing, well designed and expertly crafted,” said Alexander.

Bringing her ideas to life is something that Alexander loves to achieve and often goes straight to garment making without putting pen to paper. “My favourite part about conceptualising a design is bringing something I have thought of to life, what I see in my head and making it real.” Alexander loves to work with earthy tones, greens, and maroons and of course black. Before starting her own label, Alexander would love to intern and work somewhere where she can build and develop her skills in the industry.

MADELEINE SHULZ, WINTEC

Currently in her final year at Wintec, Madeleine Schulz moved from Germany to New Zealand to pursue a career in fashion. “I grew up in a creative environment with my grandmother being a tailor and my mother interested in all sorts of crafts at that time and a strong sense for fashion,” said Schulz.

Schulz has won many prizes for her skills and expertise, including top new entrant during her first year. Creating unique and versatile garments is a forte of Schulz’s. Her interpretation for the celebration of YKK hundred year anniversary of the zip in New Zealand involved an impressive zipped neckpiece as part of a four-piece outfit.

Her attention to detail and excellent construction skills came together and she was

ANNABELLE FITZGERALD, MASSEY UNIVERSITY

Annabelle Fitzgerald, takes a tactile approach to an industry Annabelle Fitzgerald takes a tactile approach to an industry that involves us all. In her last year at Massey University, Fitzgerald is set to graduate and is developing

FASHION AT SIT Bachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology) Starts February 2015

Call today or email info@sit.ac.nz

National Certificate in Clothing Manufacture (Level 4) Starts July 2014

Certificate in Pattern Making and Garment Construction Starts February 2015

*Direct material costs apply

18 I November 2014

www.sit.ac.nz 0800 4 0 FEES

Apparel speaks to students from around the country about their plans for the future and how they see the world. awarded the top overall student in her first year. Other accolades include Hawes and Freer for Excellence in Fabric Use, and during the Wintec Designers in Residence programme with Nyne, Most Commercial Outfit.

Schulz favourite designers include Karl Largerfeld for his continuous re-invention of the Chanel label while staying in-keeping with the original aesthetic of the label.

“Choice of fabric and great construction make a great article of clothing,” said Schulz.

“I totally believe in quality over quantity when it comes to fashion. A garment that can survive many seasons in construction and design, timeless, this is a high quality to me.” Her goal is to gain as much experience as possible to design and work for an established fashion label.

A J BRADLEY, UCOL

Adoring the Japanese fashion pioneers Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyaki and Yohji Yamamoto for their expertise, knowledge and unprecedented style, A J Bradley is inspired to drill into the unknown and discovering an array of things to create garments and collections. “Seeing your dreams and imagination come to life in a physical form is so rewarding,” said Bradley. “I enjoy sketching and working straight with fabric equally. Sketching is the fantasy and construction is reality.”

When asked about who influences her the most, Bradley believes that Patti Smith is one of the biggest. “Her uniqueness along with many other musicians, current events, protests, anything that stirs something within me that allows me to tap into this power source that drives me.” Bradley loves to work with wool for its beauty and ease when constructing. Tea dyed tissue silk is also a favourite.

“I am drawn to more natural or plant-based fibres but not exclusively as I find it very limiting with what I have in reach currently.” Her dream is to work amongst like-minded people within the industry, get a broader knowledge before venturing further a field.

MIKAYLA RANGI, SIT

Bachelor of Fashion graduate Mikayla Rangi chose SIT after completing Verdon College so she could stay in Southland. Having expressed an interest in fashion right throughout her high school years Rangi wanted to turn her passion into a career. Rangi’s highlights from her study at SIT include attending New Zealand Fashion

Week, World of Wearable Arts in Wellington and entering her own garments in the Hokonui Fashion Awards. She loved learning to create and express herself through garments and being able to share her creative works and style with others. Rangi also found the tutors really knowledgeable and supportive.

Upon graduation, Rangi got a part time job at fashion giant Factorie and has recently been promoted to store manager. Rangi acknowledges that skills such as time management, organisation and business skills, from the SIT business paper, were all crucial elements to her success as a store manager.

“I love when people come in and need a new wardrobe and I can give them a new style, especially creating looks for young girls”.

Rangi’s vision for the future is to keep progressing her career with Factorie.

MIN-JEONG PAIK, PMGS

After studying animation and textile arts/fashion design in Korea, Min-Jeong Paik, known as MJ, became a shoe designer. After moving to New Zealand she successfully gained employment in a jewellery shop.

Paik immediately fell in love with jewellery and she took a recreation course at the Peter Minturn Goldsmith School (PMGS). She is now sitting her level 5 Diploma in Goldsmithing & Jewellery after graduating with honors for a certificate in pre-apprenticeship. Paik is looking to progress to level 6 Advanced Diploma in Goldsmithing & Jewellery in 2015.

Paik is competent as a goldsmith in hand-making and manufacturing jewellery to the course requirements and in the execution of her own designs. PMGS is proud of her achievements and acknowledges Paik as a talented artist. A proud moment for Paik was entering one of her ring designs for the JAA Bi-annual Australasian Jewellery Awards.

In particular, Paik loves how enduring jewellery trends tend to be compared to other areas of fashion. Paik believes this gives jewelers greater freedom in the design stage and means a good jewellery designer can last a long time.

Art Student: Jessica Carse

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 19

EDUCATION

E-textiles high on AUT’s Textile and Design Lab agenda AUT’s Textile and Design Lab (TDL) has come a long way in a short time.

Following its opening in 2006, the lab initially focussed on the development of seamless knitwear and digitally printed textiles aimed at the fashion and apparel sectors. As the lab’s range of technologies has expanded to include intarsia knitting and roll to roll printing capabilities, it has focussed on more hi-tech applications including the research and development of knitted electronic textiles, or e-textiles, as they are commonly referred to.

The lab’s first sortie into the e-textiles arena was in 2008, when it was approached

by Zephyr Technology, an Auckland based wearable technologies company, to help it refine and further develop its BioHarness, a wearable device for monitoring heart rate, respiratory rate and body temperature, which was subsequently used to monitor the health of the Chilean miners who were trapped underground for over two months in 2010.

Over the last five years, the TDL has been collaborating with another commercial research partner, Footfalls and Heartbeats (FHL), to co-develop a range of conductive knitted structures that can be utilised in a range of medical, healthcare, sports and first responder related applications. One of the key differences between the research with FHL and other e-textile applications is that the textile itself acts as the sensor rather than relying on integrated or retro-fitted wiring and hardware.

FHL is now commercialising its unique knitted textile structures both in New Zealand and overseas.

‘The TDL has allowed Footfalls to iterate swiftly and develop new sensor structures for differing applications. This professional and personal relationship with the researchers and technicians at TDL has contributed greatly to the commercialisation process for a start-up company. Potential product partners are impressed by the ability to iterate designs quickly and deliver viable commercial solutions’, says Simon McMaster, Founding Scientist of FHL. In May of this year, the Textile and Design Lab was successful in achieving substantial university strategic research funding enabling it to collaborate with its Health Sciences Faculty, Engineering Department, Fashion and Textiles Department and the lab’s parent body, CoLab, to carry out internally driven

research into the development and applications of nano-fibre yarns, smart socks for diabetic sufferers and e-textile products for rehabilitation therapy.

‘Agreements with commercial partners are being developed to pursue these projects with a view to creating commercially viable products’, says TDL Manager, Peter Heslop.

‘This project is a great FHL’s smart sock opportunity for our research is now being staff and post graduate students commercialised from a range of disciplines and industry partners to work together with a common goal of developing commercially sustainable e-textile products’, says project leader and coDirector of the TDL, Dr Frances Joseph.

‘It is hoped that two socks to aid diabetics will be produced. One would be for protective use in the home, playing a role in preventing diabetes related foot complications. The other would integrate smart technologies for data gathering purposes within clinical trials to inform health practitioners of changes to the foot prior to damage.’ says one of the principal researchers in the smart sock project, Dr Mandy Smith.

Opportunities for R&D funding through organisations such as Callaghan Innovation are available to commercial companies that opt to partner with research institutes around New Zealand, including the Auckland University of Technology.

Email tdl@aut.ac.nz for more information.

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20 I November 2014

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

RENTABLE TRENDS

FAST fashion is a term that whizzes around as fast as trends do themselves these days. Simon Pound of Ingrid Starnes sums up the sentiment of many in the fashion industry when he says; “So much fashion is mass produced junk food… People that buy $20 smoothies are happy to buy sweatshop clothing. But you can’t judge people. You just have to provide a choice and know that there will always be some people that care about getting things that are beautifully made and special. It is about getting people to have a look and actually question what value they are getting.”

Zara is often cited as the main large brand capitalising on fast fashion. How do they do it? They have a design team 250 strong that watch runways like a hawk to deliver similar goods to consumers at a much lower price as fast as you can say ‘cattle run’. “The customer is at the heart of our unique business model,” Zara says on its website. “[We have] always remained focused on listening closely to its customers to offer them the fashions they desire,” says Inditex, the owner of Zara’s, website. Customers’ whims are central to these structures in what some call the democratisation of fashion. But what if customers are only thinking about the next IT bag or party dress?

Many fashion conscious consumers are prepared to buy and sell their clothes in order to make a new purchase and they do this freely on sites such as Trade Me and eBay. But when this is so easy, many customers do not even bother to return their product to the store if they have the wrong size or colour, they just flick it on to someone else online. This makes purchasing new products a lot more justifiable for consumers who are no longer very conscious of each purchase.

A popular Facebook community page for New Zealand consumers is called Walk in Wardrobe. This mimics other international Facebook pages that enables a community to buy and sell clothing amongst themselves. A member of the community posts images and describe what clothes they would like to sell and other members publicly comment on their photos or messaging them privately to arrange an exchange. This method is popular with young adult consumers because it is free and via a medium they are familiar with.

“These days there’s all kinds of social media platforms creating pressure for women. Now you can’t wear the same outfit twice because your friends already seen it on Instagram,” says Samudri Aakarsha, founder of Rent The Trend. Although selling a garment you cannot bear to wear again appears to be recycling on the surface, one does start to wonder where these clothes end up, if they are always purchased with one wear in mind.

Could one way of combating fast fashion be as simple as sharing?

“As crazy as it may sound, that’s what drives my business,” says Aakarsha. “Being a 21 year old girl that always spends way too much money on high end designer clothes, I can relate to this… I started Rent The Trend because I want to change and democratize the fashion industry for the better.” RentTheTrend.co.nz is a very new website that enables New Zealand women to rent $800-$1000 dresses for about $60-$70 an outing.

“It’s the perfect place for fashion forward women who want to look amazing for all their nights out and experiment with high end designer brands without the anxiety of buying in piece after piece,” she said.

Like most start-ups that are consumer focused, Rent The Trend delivers on convenience. “Our business is structured in a way that is super appealing to the customer. There’s free shipping NZ wide, we dry clean the dresses and even send a pre-paid envelope. If a customer makes a special request to try the clothes on we usually deliver them a few days prior to the

Could one way of combating fast fashion be as simple as sharing? reservation date so they can see what suits, we can send the same dress in more than one size or send them the measurements of the dress.” Aakarsha has been really impressed with the feedback she has got from her site, especially as it is a new concept to New Zealand.

Although the idea is nothing new when you think of Carlton Suit Hire, Frank Casey and the like, this is a new offering because the outfits offered for females are a lot more variable and trend based than a men’s formal suit.

Aakarsha hopes to introduce designer bags, shoes, and accessories to her collection, as well as expanding into Australia. Rent The Trend garments and accessories will be rented as many times possible if they are not damaged and still on trend, so this is a step in the right direction.

Being style savvy is a trend encouraged by growing fashion icon Kate Middleton. Middleton was heralded as a conscious fashion consumer when she hired a Philip Somerville hat to join the royal family at the Order of the Garter and an Aurora hat to the wedding of Prince William’s close friend, both from Get Ahead Hats. For pre-wedded Middleton, storage was said to be an issue and her hiring signaled her as a sensible consumer. “You

can hire a fabulous designer hat for each occasion at a fraction of the price of buying it and wear a different one next time to make your outfit look completely different”, says Get Ahead Hats.

Bag Borrow or Steal was the first of a host of American websites renting designer bags to its patrons.

“The idea came from a couple of husbands noticing their wives would trade handbags between themselves.

They thought it would make a great business, and it turns out they were right”, says Evan Wight of Bag Borrow or Steal. They were very right. They even got a line in Sex and the City (The Movie) that heralded their website as a must for fashion savvy girls.

“Bag, Borrow or Steal – it’s like Netflix for purses,” says Jennifer Hudson, who plays the lead character, Carrie’s, assistant. Netflix being an instant and easy way to watch new movies online likens Bag Borrow or Steal to an easy commodity – a far cry from a luxury designer bag purchased outright. A bag that costs US$1452 new can be rented for US$125 a month.

“We constantly get great feedback saying how easy our site is, and that the selection of handbags is great,” says Wright. Convenience is key for consumers that rent a trend. “The nice thing about borrowing handbags is that we provide the opportunity for our women to always be on-trend without the financial commitment that some of the bags present if they were to buy them.”

And a Bag Borrow or Steal woman seems to be all woman. “We really appeal to all women, and our customers do not fit into any other particular demographic. We make sure we have bags for all occasions.” Customer demand also requires Bag Borrow or Steal to constantly update their inventory, which they promote through fast and direct media channels such as Instagram. However Bag Borrow or Steal believe they can still combat fast fashion.

“Because we have to have inventory that stands up to wear and tear, our business does combat the notion of “fast fashion”. As the millennial generation moves towards owning less things, and sharing what they do have, goods will have to be made better, and last longer.”

Bag Borrow or Steal has evolved to now sell some of the bags they have previously rented, making sure no wellused handbag is deemed unusable.

Providing consumers with the option to rent a garment does make consumers consider the value of things. Consumers that are renting garments normally out of their financial limit signals that consumers are either becoming more responsive to their limits or are finding creative excuses to purchase more. Either way, five wearers for one dress is better than five dresses worn once.

By Jessica-Belle Greer

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

TRENDwatch

Emoji Fashion The iPhone has forever changed the way we communicate on the go. It comes as no surprise then that the ever-popular emoji icons have made their way onto the fashion landscape.

TALKING though emotive images has opened up a new world of expression designers are harnessing in their latest collections. Jeremy Scott released a range of prints which used emoticons in a fun loving nod to effortless style free from serious consideration.

The collection took off and has sparked the use of emojis across various brands and accessory ranges. Victoria’s Secret used emojis in a section of their annual show in the form of balloons attached to the model. Del Toro #queenbee loafers with printed emojis have also been incredibly successful, along with rings and necklaces by Alison Lou to the tune of $500 a piece.

Edie Parker has also designed a range of clutches with a price point that exceeds well beyond $1,000. The accessories have proved so popular that even the most crass emojis led to sell out items. Going beyond clothing, fashion influencers Harpers Bazaar released a series of fashion related custom emojis.

World-renowned designer Karl Lagerfeld has also released his very own Karl emoji range, emotiKarl. Emojis have now become so integrated with fashion communication that Elle started reviewing collections using emojis to illustrate their thoughts on each show.

By Thomas James

theWINDOW

cosstores.com

Hit: Sleek Scandinavian style, easy layout with strong content including e-store, campaigns, ‘Things’ blog online magazine and interactive calendar.

Miss: Will need an overseas friend to pass on goods as do not ship to Australasia.

22 I November 2014

runwaybandits.com

Hit: Well cut simple basics from Singapore, interactive tabs, backorder available, membership awards.

Miss: High shipping price and long delivery time.

choies.com

Hit: Street style-inspired pieces, frequent sales, new stock every day, can shop by trends.

Miss: Cluttered layout with pop up ads, long delivery time and confusing delivery information.

industryREPORT

The industry according to…

DENISE L’ESTRANGE CORBET

WORLD

When Francis and I started WORLD in May 1989 the New Zealand fashion industry was so very different than it is today, I would go as far as to say naive almost.

HIGH Street, Auckland had been the leading ‘fashion precinct’ for decades, and that is where any brand of any worth had to be based to be taken seriously and make the ‘fashion map’.

It had great fashion stores, tremendous and varied eateries, one being Rosinis, that opened all day, and did not shut at 1.00pm on a Saturday along with all the stores.

Unity Books, which is still there, supplied all our reading material.

The big, mainstream fashion brands were based in Queen Street and the leaders in this area were the Peppertree and Thornton Hall brands whose clothing was New Zealand made, nobody expected clothing sold here to be made anywhere else.

These brands and a lot of others, travelled overseas, and came home with burgeoning suitcases bulging with their ‘new season samples’.

These garments were blatantly copied, and put into store, but now with the internet, this is not so easy to do, thank goodness, although you do still see it popping up by brands you would least expect. Brands that have their own identity will always stand out, as that is what being a designer is about.

Being based in High Street did have an almost ‘village’ feel, the designer brands, although high profile, were small in terms of size, some brands had just the one store. Every Friday the city had a late night, all stores opened till 9.00pm, and people flocked to the city to shop after work. ‘Farmers’ had a store on Hobson Street and had their own free bus that ran from Queen Street to get you to their store!

One day I saw Anthony Kiedis, the lead singer of the Red Hot Chilli Peppers walking up High Street with his DEKA shopping bag, through the bag you could see he had bought a kettle and a toaster! DEKA was a smaller version of the monolithic Warehouse.

The biggest fashion event of the year was the Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards, which was broadcast live on TV, and for a $70 entry fee you could become an overnight sensation. Every person interested in fashion watched it, as there was always someone that you knew who had entered. The next morning all the shop assistants would pop in and out of each other’s stores discussing the show, the winners and losers, and giving their opinions of the judging, it was a very different time, it was cohesive, people talked.

Queen Street started to change, the Peppertrees, Thornton Halls and other brands closed or moved out, the street seemed to have more banks moving in than stores, it was the start of a huge change. What is the point of having a main street running down the centre of town, if it is not going to have shops that people can shop in? Next came the $2 shops and cheap pop up stores, and for the main street of a city, this was damaging. We had the mainstay of Smith &

Caughey, but they were at the top end of the street.

There were no nice cafes in Queen Street; the fast food giants had moved in, it was that, or nothing.

Large stores now really began to move in on areas they had not been interested in before. The Warehouse began selling cheap, imported clothing on a large scale, and it increased to other stores, now of course, this is not designer clothing, but it is clothing, and it does the ‘look of the season’. Australian brands started moving in, and doing the same and I noticed that the divide between designer and throwaway clothing divide was widening.

You could now purchase an adult garment for $5 from these stores, and to realise the impact, you have to dissect the chain.

The fabric is bought, cut, machined, buttons, zips, notions attached, the garment is pressed, tagged, put on hangers and boxed. They are then shipped halfway around the world, driven to a warehouse, unpacked, put into stores that have huge rental, lighting, heating, security systems, computers, staff wages and holiday pay, and a garment can retail at $5, and make a profit.

I cannot even buy a metre of fabric for that price, and I wonder how much the person making the garment gets paid? We are lucky to live in a country with a minimum wage, yet some people are happy to buy these clothes made by people that are so far below the poverty line, it is beyond belief.

More big fashion retailers are moving in, still cheap, but disguised as designer and using well known international faces to design capsule ranges to keep the buyer interested.

Then a single man, Peter Cooper, decided to do something that our own Auckland City Council did not have the imagination or courage to do. Peter took the lease in 2004 on the unused and unloved land at the bottom of town and started developing the area that we now all know as Britomart.

In early 2012 we were the first NZ designer brand to open and move our flagship store to the new Britomart development.

This was a really tough decision, as we never saw ourselves leaving High Street, but the rents, the actions of the council always closing the street for filming, road works, good retailers closing down or just moving out and fly by night shops and eateries moving in, we realised High Street was losing its pulling power and what it had been known for, and the customer count was down, people had started shopping in other areas, that were offering none of the above.

Louis Vuitton was the first of the big international designer brands to move to Queen Street many years ago. It was quite a few years before the other brands began to follow. LV eventually moved across the road to a large store with building naming rights, and then Gucci arrived, followed by Coach, and soon to arrive Christian Dior. This, at last, is giving Auckland a real international feel, and will hopefully start to transform the embarrassing looking Queen Street that should be the jewel in the crown of Auckland retail.

We are now again thankfully seeing the emergence

The fabric is bought, cut, machined, buttons, zips, notions attached, the garment is pressed, tagged, put on hangers and boxed. They are then shipped halfway around the world, driven to a warehouse, unpacked, put into stores that have huge rental, lighting, heating, security systems, computers, staff wages and holiday pay, and a garment can retail at $5, and make a profit. of incredible young, strategic New Zealand designer brands, and this is what our local industry needs.

Brands like Harman Grubisa, Penny Sage and Georgia Alice, brands that are bubbling under and remind me of WORLD when we first started. They have their own design signature, have small ranges, and do everything themselves, and I feel they will all establish and cement themselves as the next round of great local designers, we need this as an industry, it refreshes us.

WORLD has always remained New Zealand made.

We have never wavered from our decision to keep our brand in the country in which it was established, and which gave it its break, we owe it that, we owe it to all the people that choose to be in the industry, it needs local designers support, you can manufacture locally and sell internationally, if you want to.

In 1989 I never imagined we would still be one of the most prolific fashion brands to have ever come out of New Zealand, and are very proud of what Francis Hooper, Benny Castles and myself have achieved. I have to thank all our loyal customers and supporters, the people that helped put us where we are, couldn’t have done it without you!

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

Why Your Business Education Is Never Complete

As the pace of change within the retail sector continues to ramp up, retailers can feel as though they’re scrambling to stay afloat and ensure their business remains competitive. By Zoe Ripley

ONE of the biggest challenges retailers face is keeping abreast of evolving consumer expectations and perpetual technological developments.

To achieve continuous business growth, retailers should constantly be learning about two essential areas. One is your current and future customers — how they shop, what they like, how they search and purchase, what types of devices they use for the various stages of their purchase journeys and what their expectations are for the future. The second is keeping up with frequently changing e-commerce requirements from industry heavyweights such as eBay, Google and Trade Me.

Know Your Customers The key to unlocking insights into your customers is to review your data. For many sellers, data is simply a means to an end — just something they have. If used strategically and creatively, though, it can be so much more. An effective data-management system allows retailers to increase online sales and visibility.

Because predictive commerce can help make customers intensely loyal, it’s important that retailers

start using their data to better know their customers.

For example, using data to understand post-purchase activity can provide retailers with the opportunity to upsell similar products that the customer may be interested in buying later.

In addition, analysing data can give retailers a better appreciation of the ebb and flow in shopping periods, allowing them to more strategically plan seasonal promotions and decide when to order extra stock.

Stay in the E-Commerce Loop Retailers should keep their finger on the pulse of industry updates to make sure they’re aware of and conversant with important changes. In the past year, there’s been a slew of exciting updates for social media, eBay and Google. eBay Defect Rate: Among other updates, in 2014 eBay introduced a new way to measure seller performance. The four individual detailed seller rating requirements have been overhauled and replaced by a metric known as the ‘defect rate’.

EBay has tried to better balance its seller ratings,

and as a result, sellers now have to stay on top of customer feedback across the board. This means identifying and responding to seller issues in a timely fashion and ensuring that all product descriptions are on point.

Social Media: Just recently, social media has taken great leaps into the world of conversions: #AmazonCart, Twitter’s Buy Now button, Facebook’s Buy button and Pinterest Rich Pins are leading the charge. While only Rich Pins are currently available in New Zealand, these developments represent a shift towards social commerce and are interesting to watch.

These examples are representative of a wider picture, one that the great minds of generations past have cemented in our collective consciousness: Education is the silver bullet. To borrow from Robert E. Lee, “the education of a [person] is never completed until he dies,” and in the ever-evolving online retail space, the importance of this idea can’t be understated.

Make good use of your data, stay updated on e-commerce news, seek expert advice and above all, strive for perpetual betterment of your business.

Five Hiring Tips for the Silly Season How time flies, the ever constant pressure of hiring escalates and heralds the coming of Christmas. By Anya Anderson IT seems like only a few weeks ago that you were doing the same thing last year! With many retailers doing 30% of their year’s trade over the Christmas period, there is a real need for increased staffing to deal with stock and customers.

So how do you take the pain out of short term hiring?

1. Get organised early. That’s right about NOW. Look at last year’s figures, dig out the rosters, talk to your current team about their preferred hours and time off. What do you really need?

2. Give yourself some flexibility. If you need

40hours, think about hiring two part timers. You have extra cover if someone gets sick and you may be able to pull more than 40 hours from them if you need it.

3. Don’t promise what you can’t deliver! Don’t stretch the truth to make the job sound more attractive.

Don’t promise hours that you can’t deliver, or time off if you need your team in the store.

4. Don’t hire monkeys. That is unless you run a circus. It’s true when they say, ‘one bad apple will spoil the barrel’. A great, highly functioning team can go way off track if you hire a demotivator or the wrong ‘fit’.

5. Train them. Do what you can to get them off on the right foot. Tell them what’s expected of them and SHOW them how to do it. You will reap the rewards as trade picks up and you have happy staff who can do the job. If they’re really good you might want to keep them!

Christmas trade is a stressful time of the year at the best of times. Do yourself a favour and reduce the pressure by doing some straight forward things to get the right people on board and have them perform over your key trading period.

24 I November 2014

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

WHAT’S YOUR DIGITAL PLAN? The majority of retailers have a business plan, most have a marketing plan, but how many have a digital strategy? It’s this aspect of retailing that’s at its most dynamic ever – requiring a completely new way of determining value and benefit to your stores from technology. By Chris Wilkinson FIRSTLY, a digital strategy helps businesses make smart, strategic decisions on investment – based on their linkage with other aspects of the operation. It outlines each aspect of your digital presence, promotion and business infrastructure – identifying key aspects for consideration when looking at new solutions and industry trends.

As a day to day resource, a strategy helps define existing requirements and cleverly anticipates what will be required in the future.

It’s easy to become distracted by new technology and frequent deals that are presented to retailers. A digital strategy means decisions are based on how they fit with existing solutions and longer term requirements. This is because many of these aspects interlink – meaning changing one could have knock-on implications for others within the company.

A good strategy will look at all aspects of the businesses’ promotional needs, encompassing web and e-commerce, social media, location based technology and digital signage. These elements are evolving quickly – meaning retailers need to be ahead of the game at all times.

Operationally, point of sale systems, digital security, data backup, rostering/ attendance, training and accounting are other digital aspects that fit within a comprehensive plan. These need to be considered just as much as the more exciting marketing tools.

With software integrations across many platforms now, driving efficiencies through one program talking seamlessly to another can be a reality – as long as choices have been strategic. Too often retailers have to retire valuable computer hardware or software because it doesn’t interface with other systems. A strategy can go a long way toward reducing this risk.

If you’re in a mall or shopping centre it’s vital you understand their digital strategy too. There’s no point duplicating what your landlord is delivering (or

planning to deliver), but instead, look to add value to their initiatives. Almost all good centres now have a comprehensive plan in place they’ll be happy to share as part of their overall promotional support.

A good strategy becomes a point of reference and underpins confident, robust decisions on investment. Take time to invest a little now so you can save and enjoy efficiencies in the future.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

SignatureScent

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

NOT just for the romantic, candles offer fashion brands and boutiques a profitable product on the side because it is an affordable luxury for fashion consumers. Candles fit with the artistry of fashion boutiques and sell seamlessly along side fashion brands because they are an aspirational product that captures a fashion consumer’s desire to embody style. NZ Apparel discovers how stocking or collaborating with candle brands can light a fashion company’s own brand flame and bring in important profit.

VERONICA B - The Chandler New Zealand A series of luxurious, high quality New Zealand made candles are offered by Veronica B and The Chandler New Zealand. “Candles go hand and hand with fashion. People who put time and effort into their appearance also want their homes and offices to be the same. The candle is both beautiful to look at, and smells amazing. It is the perfect ‘home accessory’,” said Chantelle Allonby of Veronica B. The candles feature a pony hair exterior in a range of colours including, leopard, hot pink and petrol. With rich textured pony hair, a thick chain and stud accents it match’s Veronica B’s adventurous style and The Chandler New Zealand’s bold scents.

The candles are designed to be reminiscent of Veronica B Jewellery whilst delivering on The Chandler New Zealand’s promise of quality. All candles are hand poured in New Zealand using the finest wax and wicks. The Veronica B signature scent is Frosted Frangipani and candles can be made to order with any other of The Chandler New Zealand’s scents.

WORLD Beauty WORLD has never been just a fashion brand. The customer experience is a pinnacle concern for the factory of ideas that call for jaws to drop. As an expert retailer WORLD brings the most beautiful things in the world to New Zealand and the candles at WORLD Beauty stores are no exception to this.

In particular, the Cire Trudon candles they stock come from the oldest candle maker in existence. Founded in 1643, Cire Trudon candles lit the grand houses of Europe before electricity was known, then lit the stained glass windows of great churches; Notre-Dame and Sacré-Cœur still light Cire Trudon candles today.

Their Arch Angel collection has an alluring French history and the product itself has been worked on for 400 years, making it the most luxurious item one can own. Also stocked are the Carrière Frères candles, which were created in 1884 by the Carrière brothers. As botanists from the Trudon family, the brothers searched for a single note of origin scent to create a beautifully simplistic alternative.

The Fornasetti Profumi candles contain Cire Trudon wax and line WORLD Beauty stores with iconic ceramic art that burn a candle away to a beautiful piece of home art. These candles are all a part of the WORLD journey. The candles are an idea to connect with and to leave the customer feeling richer. The candles embody different ideas and WORLD hopes to excite their customers by this challenge.

Nellie Tier Nellie Tier’s hand poured premium candles come from a family business run by three generations of highly intelligent and resourceful women. They provide biodegradable, pesticide free and sustainable eco soy wax for discerning customers who enjoy gentle and genuine scents.

Because the candles are understated yet elegant they sit very well in fashion boutiques and appeal to stylish consumers.

26 I November 2014

INGRID STARNES - Vetyver Bergamot Candle Embodying Ingrid Starne’s affection for New Zealand industry the Ingrid Starnes Vetyver Bergamot candle is encased in a beaker by original Crown Lynn mould maker, Bruce Yallop of Studio Ceramics. The floral relief of the beaker reflects the past design of Crown Lynn and Brentleigh Ware ceramics as homage to past treasured New Zealand homewares. The four colours of the beakers; sage, wash blue, alabaster and granite add to a nostalgic visual.

The ceramic beaker mimics Simon Pound of Ingrid Starnes’ home coffee beakers, something that will have a useful life after a candle has burned and gone. With the legacy of ‘buy once, buy well’ Pound believes their candle is rare in a world of disposable consumerism. Ingrid Starnes clothing is designed with a love of craft, fabric and detail and their new candles certainly express this further.

JENNY PACKHAM - Neom Limited Edition Candles One of the UK’s most successful and independent fashion brands, Jenny Packham, has teamed up with a British homeware fragrance brand, Neom, to create something special for their customers. “A precious moment of utter luxury, this is the synergy of Jenny Packham and Neom.” The two candles developed add to a memorable Jenny Packham experience.

The Happiness candle’s holder has delicate embellishment and beading synonymous with Packham’s signature bridal gowns. The Real Luxury candle is made for enchanting and empowered women like the celebrities that wear her gowns on the red carpet, furthering Packham’s ambition to be worn by the most iconic, talented and influential women. “I’m a huge believer that scent is linked to mood and I think we all associate certain scents with certain memories,” said Packham.

ANNAH STRETTON Chameleon Scented Candle Annah Stretton has started to do a lot more homewear in their Birds of a Feather collaborative stores so a candle was a nice fit with the other in-house creations and designs. The chameleon candle makes a wonderful and lasting gift that is even nicer for gifting part of the sale proceeds to the SPCA. Offering a candle has undoubtedly helped Annah Stretton’s growing branding awareness in New Zealand.

“If people like the label they generally enjoy the additions - and the candle is part of that,” said namesake and owner Annah Stretton.

CoS x George & Edi ‘OH CULT’ Private Blend To capture the mood of their Dunedin store, Company of Strangers (CoS) created their own fragrance. A lovely yet not overpowering scent was chosen from Wanaka candle brand George & Edi. After many discussions and recommendations from George & Edi, CoS decided on a spicier, heavier scent that lures in shoppers from the street.

A blend of cedar wood, sandalwood, nutmeg, cinnamon, bergamot, vetiver captured in a black glass, this hand poured black candle is subversive yet romantic, like CoS themselves.

Candles are having a renaissance.

From bygone eras where they gave the only light, candles now brighten retail stores for modern customers seeking fashionable luxuries.

TWENTY SEVEN NAMES Empire of Lights Twenty Seven Names has made a candle with neighbours, National Candles. Established in 1969, National Candles is New Zealand’s oldest and most respected candle maker that uses traditional methods and the finest, natural raw materials.

Empire of Lights is the name of a series painted by Belgian surrealist artist Rene Magritte from 19531954. Magritte was the main source of inspiration for Twenty Seven Names’ clothing collection when they were designing the candle.

There is a sense of continuity between the Empire of Lights Chapter One candle and Twenty Seven Names’ witty clothing. Twenty Seven Names hope to have a new chapter out next year.

The Soy Candle Co produces luxurious candles for consumers who appreciate beauty and elegance. They source the finest ‘Yves Andre Dombrowsky ‘ fragrances made in the world capital of perfume Grasse, France. Dombrowsky’s philosophy aligns with The Soy Candle Co’s core belief that fragrance should transport you, evoke emotion, and indulge the senses.

Founder, Samantha Miles is a kinesiologist that applies her world view ‘every little bit helps’ to her business. Miles’ partner works in environmental policy and together they live a life of ‘conscious consumption.’ The Soy Candle Co is made for other conscious consumers. Miles ensures all companies worked with have a fair trade eco conscious philosophy or are at least working towards one.

Midnight Label

Andrea Moore Massage candles have been added to new label, Midnight Label’s, boutique collection of fashion collaborations. Being a luxury organic soy candle with the smell of sensual amber, it continues the brand’s ambition to be all about midnight, magic and ‘making wishes happen’.

Made with shea butter, cocoa butter, avocado oil and love the candle is a celebration of Midnight Label’s luxurious offerings and is the perfect gift or treat.

Illumina Soy Candles Jennifer Duncan of fashionable candle brand Illumina Soy Candles thinks in the long term for her stockists. She would rather each retailer has unique items for their shop, rather than saturating the market.

When looking at a new stockist’s store she thinks about their styling, colour schemes and existing candle range to ensure Illumina Soy Candles complement the store and become a natural part of their offerings.

“There are so many candle companies out now, as candles are so popular, you have to be able to be flexible so, being manufactured in NZ has helped us incredibly,” said Duncan.

Shooting Sparrow x Federation Shooting Sparrow is a streetwear inspired homeware brand that looked to Federation as a reputable brand to lift their candles apart from other offerings. The candle launched both brands as open to collaborations.

The Shooting Sparrow x Federation candle is all black; nice and simple and a twist on the classic candle. Federation and Shooting Sparrow went through a process of testing the most suitable fragrances that identified the brands, they came up with a coconut and lime mix and we decided to name it “Les Tropiques” to give our little twist.

It makes Shooting Sparrow not just a brand in Federation shops but a part of their movement. The candles have gone really well so far, with candles being sold out in the Newmarket Federation store within 30 minutes of being stocked. Following this success, Shooting Sparrow and Federation are looking to produce the candle in a second size. Shooting Sparrow’s are 100% premium soy, hand poured here in New Zealand.

Soy Candle Co

The team at Andrea Moore adores candles for the scent, love and care one feels when they walk into a room with a candle burning. It took a long time to find a manufacturer who understood the quality and integrity Andrea Moore Living needed in their candle and it took an equally long time to find just the right scents, making this candle very personal.

Designer Andrea Moore and her life and business partner Brian Molloy found a manufacturer within New Zealand and decided on Vanilla Flower, Jasmin Pikake and Crème du Kaffir Lime scents. Andrea Moore took the opportunity to have fun with the packaging and to really highlight the essence of the brand.

Graffiti-inspired text celebrates individuality with bold colour and witty prints, just as Andrea Moore clothing does. The candles themselves are symbolic of the brand’s DNA by being the highest quality possible.

ato - Baxter of California Modern menswear label, ato, have released a candle called Night Ritual with cutting-edge men’ s grooming brand Baxter of California.

Under ato’s concept of ‘Skin/Night/Ritual’ the candle is the scent of citrus with grapefruit and mandarin, followed by geranium,pomegranate and lime musk. The wax is a midnight blue color and the packaging in black and gold to match ato’s other packaging.

The candle is sold along with the Daikanyama Tsutaya Books that inspired designer Ato Matsumoto for the candle as well as designs from the 2014 SS ato collection, which are all in line with the candle’s image.

In the past, Baxter of California has teamed up with colette in Paris and Saturdays Surf NYC. This is the first project with a Japanese fashion brand.

Made by Bee Founder of Made by Bee, Phoebe Turner started making candles when a parttime job fell through. Now a year old, the company is gaining loyal followers.

Made by Bee Candles are hand poured with 100% natural soy wax. They hold fragrance brilliantly and burn slowly. At a price point of $20 they are the perfect gift or add-on purchase.

There are currently ten fragrances, including Coconut and Lime, Pink Peony and White Tea and Ginger. All fragrances are also available in reed diffusers.

Turner would love to see her products in a fashion boutique. Her key demographic of young women and older female audiences would match many.

EDITD

The high street’s love affair with designers:

ALEXANDER WANG FOR H&M

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

FOR retailers, collaborations are an excellent tool for driving frenzied shopping and creating cult following; both are powerful tools in retail. It’s a great opportunity for retailers to lift price point, generate healthy margins and increase footfall.

For brands, collaborations are a good opportunity to get more eyeballs on their brand and approach new geographical regions. It’s also a cash injection for a design house. Proenza Schouler reported a seven-figure sum for their Target collaboration – a cashflow which helps designers create and promote their mainline brand.

However, collaborations don’t come without risks for a brand – designers have no control of the customer experience once the product goes to store. Collaborations also have a notoriously high return rate: customer fit and quality expectations can fall short.

The success of high street collaborations depends on what the retailer is looking to achieve – there have been collaborations which have resulted in fast sell outs, but the retailer is unable to replenish stock, so the hype is over swiftly and not maintained. (With much of the Alexander Wang collaboration having sold out on day one, we’ll be watching to see if H&M are able to replenish).

On the other hand, there are longer lasting collaborations, such as Debenhams and Matthew Williamson’s 12 year relationship and Jil Sander for Uniqlo, with J+. These collaborations have very different strategies – offering their consumers improved design and quality at familiar price points.

Kate Moss returned to stores at the end of April. The following month saw the number of sell outs at Topshop lifted by nearly 15% compared to the month before. However, the items that didn’t sell out swiftly later saw very high discounting – 52.5% was the average discount applied to Kate Moss for Topshop items.

Generally, collaborations have an higher average price point than the mainline, and a faster sell out, but see much lower replenishment and higher levels of discounting

H&M’S MOST SUCCESSFUL DESIGNER COLLABORATION Isabel Marant for H&M, which launched mid-November 2013, had a 100% sell out rate and saw zero discounting. With the average sell through occurring within seven days, this collaboration, though not restocked, was a big success for H&M. It had an average price point 118% higher than H&M’s mainline average price point and there was a 46% lift in number of products selling out that month, compared to November 2013.

That contrasts with the Maison Martin Margiela collaboration at the Swedish retailer. Within three weeks of arriving into stores, 75 products from the 98 piece collection were reduced, 22 by more than 50%.

Topshop’s much publicized collaboration with

28 I November 2014

than mainline collections.

Lasting effect will only truly be felt for a retailer if they’re able to maintain demand by replenishing successful lines or build a longer lasting relationship from the collaborations, which resonated with consumers.

THE FUTURE OF COLLABORATIONS There’s still much scope for the menswear market to explore collaborations. With an increasingly aware male consumer, retailers can use collaborations to

inform male shoppers about young designers and to lure them towards a higher price point.

With the activewear market booming, the Alexander Wang collaboration is well timed.

Topshop’s announcement that Beyoncé will collaborate with them on a line is pure retail gold too. Yet there’s more room to explore here – lines such as Stella McCartney for adidas have paved the way for a greater overlap between function and form.

We’re also increasingly seeing the luxury world collaborate with the art world, as brands strive to differentiate in a crowded market place.

Using associations with art will justify the luxury price point amongst a sea of mimicry – we’re seeing brands like Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada use their collaborations to great effect.

Of course, a collaboration isn’t destined for success just because it’s got a powerful name attached to it. The retail principles of right product, at right price and right time ring true and need careful analysis to avoid those Maison Martin Margiela for H&M discounts.

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