$ 10.95
OCTOBER 2020 I VOL 53 I NO 10
editor ' s note
fashionable reads Love, Rihanna: Luxury Supreme
FORK IN THE ROAD FOR FASHION INDUSTRY
W
hile the fashion industry has taken a massive hit with the lockdowns, most are hanging in there with hopes of a good summer/party season. The truth is the industry has forever changed, the pandemic is another one of those moments in the sector where a fork in the road has developed. Through the lockdowns, worldwide, most people enjoyed working from home and gained a newfound love of sweatpants, a trend that everyone in the industry expects to outlive the pandemic. This seismic shift in behaviour has profound repercussions across the supply chain for formal wear, upending the more formal dress code for work across the globe. Australia and New Zealand are in the top five of the world's biggest wool producers, but prices have been in freefall, hitting decade lows. The demand for New Zealand merino wool has taken a significant
drop with most in the sector, blaming the effects of COVID-19. Many sheep farmers are storing their wool in every available barn and shed, hoping for a rebound. While the highest percentage of fashion sales are in the developed world, we have to look to the developing world for textile production. The fashion industry has one of the largest and most complicated global supply chains, one that spreads across every single country on the planet. Globally apparel consumption is estimated to be around $1.8 trillion, which makes it about 2.3% of global GDP. Fashion will survive - the question will be how will this fork in the road impacts textiles, iconic brands, fast fashion and emerging designers. What’s next for the industry? Join the conversation, have your say, drop me an email and share your thoughts.
ON THE COVER:
With each book signed and numbered by global music icon, Rhianna, this is one for the records. A luxurious oversized 656 x 500 mm hardback filled with stunning large-format images, it really is a work of art. The book entails stories from Rhianna’s Barbados childhood through to her worldwide sold-out tours. Filled with double page blown up images as well as intimate private life photographs with her family and friends, this book is able to showcase Rihanna’s life as an artist, performer, designer, and entrepreneur.
A Man & His Watch
By Matthew Hranek Author, Matthew Hranek, is a watch collector and New York City’s men’s style icon. In this book, he travels around the world to obtain the most exclusive and personal stories of 76 watches. Coupled with stunning imagery of each of the watches, this book is perfect for those who appreciate the meticulous work and character of each timepiece. Paul Newman wore his Rolex Daytona every single day for 35 years until his death, the iconic timepiece is one of the most sought-after watch today. Franklin Roosevelt wore a Tiffany watch to the Yalta Conference where she shook the hands of Joseph Stalin and Winston Churchill. Stories like these are told by Hranek and represent how these timepieces are status-symbols. They represent milestones, achievements, heirlooms and much more.
Crossing Gender Boundaries
Edited by Andrew Reilly and Ben Barry The relationship between gender and fashion has developed drastically over the years. This book explores this relationship through both historical and contemporary contexts. Through 14 essays, we explore and investigate gender issues through the lens of fashion. This book touches on how fashion has always engrained a binary gender divide, as well as how dress can be used to protest against such divides and expectations. Moreover, this book also highlights the meaning that fuel unisex and genderless clothing. Reading this book will open us to the different aspects of this relationship between gender and fashion, while also opening our eyes up to the perhaps questionable world around us.
Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk
CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM
Peter Mitchell Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Janet Guan - janet@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento Debby Wei
2 I October 2020
ISSN 1171-2287
Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 304 0142 This magazine is published monthly under license. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to Review Publishing Co Ltd. This magazine is a platform for the industry and may include content that expresses views and opinions by contributing writers. Content is attributed to the author, and these opinions and the view/s are those of the author/s. They do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any other agency, organisation, employer or company. The opinions and material published in this edition are not necessarily those of the publishers unless expressly stated. All material appearing in the magazine, website and social media platforms is copyright and may only be reproduced with the written consent of the publisher. Copyright 2020
By Anna Jackson Worn by women, men, and children. The Kimono is a cultural signifier of Japanese culture that has been used, adapted and reimagined in modern culture. The Japanese Kimono is discussed and analysed as an unchanging garment through to a traditional piece that is both static and timeless. This book is published for an exhibition at the V&A, London, where it explores how the Kimono went from Kyoto to international fashion runways around the world. With 200 kimonos from collections at the V&A and around the world, this is the most extensive look into this piece that has become a staple in the fashion world.
&
94th edition
11 14.12.2020 Riva del Garda - Italy
fast five
WELCOME TO THE HUFFER HOUSE
A New Zealand fashion favourite Huffer, launches a transformational retail concept to create and facilitate social connections. Huffer has been on a journey to create one powerful roof to bring people together that share similar values in the heart of Auckland city. The result? The Huffer House is born - in the new Britomart Hotel Building. The project took over 12 months to complete, diving deep into the brand. The concept is an investment in people and supports the brands Social Sustainability and Mental Health Wellbeing awareness programmes while allowing Huffer retail to take its place in a new world. The Huffer House was completed at the end of 2019; pre-COVID.
Founder Steven Dunstan made the tough call to continue as he knew this is Huffer's retail of the future. "The Huffer House concept is based on a house. It's our house and everyone is welcome to hang out. For us, it's important to have a place to bring community together and what better timing than in a pandemic that could push communities away from each other," explained Dunstan. Huffer also needed a space for their Mental Health Awareness programme; People Presence. "Creating the opportunity to hang out, people can be with people and experiences can be meaningful. We will showcase local hero's, artists and friends of Huffer who can share their talents and their stories."
CLOTHING RESERVED FOR THE FASHIONCONSCIOUS TRADIE A new 100sqm flagship retail store has opened in Auckland to cater to a growing trend in fashionable workwear in the trade industries. According to industry experts, the trend is being driven in part by an increase in the number of women entering trades (data shows a 39 percent increase from a decade ago). Wesfarmers, owned by NZ Safety Blackwoods, is expanding into fashionable pieces that those within the trade industries can wear to work. Trade industries are shedding their traditional persona as a new generation of more image-conscious tradies emerge along with increasing numbers of women entering trade industries, and their retail face has evolved to meet this changing
demand. "The old school self-image of the typical New Zealand tradie has changed over recent years and this has manifested in a growing design trend for more stylish workwear which was traditionally seen as purely functional," explained Chris Mason, National Manager - Trade Centres at NZ Safety Blackwoods. "More commonly now, they are looking for workwear that they can come off the site, take off their work boots and head down to the pub." Mason stated that their investment in a local omnichannel expansion programme will cover bricks and mortar stores as well as their e-commerce platforms.
NETBALL ALL-STARS COME TOGETHER FOR A GOOD CAUSE Seven netball superstars have come together as the faces of Ketz-ke's All Stars Anniversary Collection to benefit The Tania Dalton Foundation. The collection is modelled by former Silver Ferns and current netball players including Jenny-May Clarkson, Adine Wilson, Anna Harrison, Bernadine Oliver-Kerby, Bernice Mene, Jamie Hume and 18-year-old Tania Dalton Foundation scholarship recipient, Vika Koloto. Ketz-ke wanted to mark their 15 year milestone by championing hero styles of collections gone whilst also supporting The Tania Dalton Foundation - a charity that's close to heart. Jenny Drury - the founder of Ketz-ke always finds a way to support the Foundation every year as Dalton was a dear friend of Drury's.
"Given the impact of COVID-19 on the charitable sector, we dreamt up the All Stars concept to bring together some of Tania's best friends and budding young sportswomen to get dressed up, have fun on set and ultimately celebrate the initiative that makes a real difference for up and coming talent," explained Drury. The collection will also feature two limited-edition Tania Dalton Foundation t-shirts, where the proceeds will support the Foundation.
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A High Relaxed Short in Salty Stone
ALLBIRDS' NEW INNOVATIVE MATERIAL FORMULATION
SAY HELLO TO KANKEN RE-WOOL Fjällräven proves sustainable wool is more than just baselayers and sweaters. Like most outdoor apparel and accessory brands, wool is a popular textile to be using. However, a few seasons ago, Fjällräven decided to try using wool outside the norm of baselayers and sweaters. After researching ways they could incorporate wool into their unique offerings, the company is bringing wool to its most popular family: Kanken. Fjällräven's latest collection uses recycled wool - called Re-Wool, to create a special edition Kanken. Made from a combination of G-1000 HeavyDuty Eco S and a wool mix fabric that consists of 80 percent preconsumer recycled wool from Prato, Italy and 20 percent recycled nylon for enhanced strength. The weave type is called Melton, and it was first developed in Britain to include weather resistant qualities. "We feel it gives Kanken a lot of personality while telling a really great story about recycled wool," stated Fredrik Hyltén, Fjällräven's Hardwear
6 I October 2020
Designer. The recycled-wool is made up of mainly pre-consumer leftovers that has been colour sorted, shredded and re-spun. This means it saves water and energy as you do not need to re-dye it. "We use to focus on the end functionality and sourced wool based on that," said Christiane, Head of Sustainability at Fjällräven. "Now, instead of taking the product as a starting point, we take the raw material as the starting point and see what we can do with it." Fjällräven now uses so much recycled wool, the Textile Exchange has listed Fjällräven as one of the top ten brands for its use of recycled wool by volume. The sustainability story doesn't stop at wool for Fjällräven. Another key aspect Fjällräven focuses on is traceability. If you know where your wool is coming from, you can be sure sustainability within animal welfare, society and the environment is enforced. Fjällräven believes in sourcing for many different places as the best way to ensure long-term sustainability and a resilient supply chain.
Allbirds has developed a brand new material formulation called TrinoXO. TrinoXO combines their existing Trino blend (a mixture of tree and merino fibres), spun with Chitosan— a naturally occurring fibre derived from crab shells. Never before has pure Chitosan fibre been used at this kind of scale in apparel. Chitosan fibres are derived from a waste stream, however, they result in material that keeps the wearer fresher for longer, therefore, reducing our need for energyintensive washes. This launch is a natural evolution for Allbirds, in both their product offering and their technical
innovation. This story of business, design and innovation sees some of our proud kiwi expats Tim Brown and Jamie McLellan pushing boundaries on a global scale. This is such a special time in the brand’s history, as they explore what’s possible. The TrinoXO Tee is the perfect everyday tee made from snow crabs that are caught in the Labrador Sea off the coast of New Foundland, Canada. These shells would have otherwise been thrown out and into the waste stream. The unique Chitosan material keeps you naturally fresh without being harmful to the planet.
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20
mins with
MFNZ’S FIRST EVER PROGRAMME DIRECTOR
M
indful Fashion New Zealand has announced its appointment of their first Programme Director, Jacinta Fitzgerald. As Programme Director, Fitzgerald will be in charge of driving the strategy of MFNZ whilst also being an advocate for the New Zealand fashion industry. "This is a huge milestone for Mindful Fashion New Zealand. Now in its second year, MFNZ has reached a stage where it can employ a passionate leader to
8 I October 2020
drive the organisation's mission to unite the New Zealand clothing and textile industry to create an innovative, full-circle and thriving future," said James Walker, MFNZ Chairperson. Fitzgerald currently runs her own sustainability consultancy, Make.Good - who specialise in clothing and accessories. "Having Jacinta Fitzgerald on board as Mindful Fashion's Programme Director is an important and exciting step forward for the organisation. Her experience and knowledge to lead Mindful Fashion's
project agenda is going to bring about really positive change," noted Kate Sylvester, Co-founder of MFNZ. Fitzgerald is excited about the opportunity she has with MFNZ to shift the needle towards a sustainable and circular clothing and textiles industry in New Zealand. "There is enormous scope for collaboration, to drive projects forward that benefit our businesses, New Zealander's and the environment. I'm looking forward to working with our members to bring this vision to life," said Fitzgerald.
10 PIECES -COLLECTIONby
Fo r wh o l es a l e e n q u i res : b ra n d @ ta y l o r b o u t i q u e.c o. n z
taylorboutique.co.nz/10-pieces
edited
FOUR OPPORTUNITIES TO TAP INTO THE MATERNITY MARKET Whether or not we're in the midst of a COVID baby boom, find out the new ways retailers can serve expecting mums.
W
hile there is no evidence supporting the “COVID Baby Boom”, maternity wear is poised for growth as consumers look for products to wear throughout pregnancy and beyond without compromising on style. According to Marketwatch, the maternity market is forecasted to reach $24.5 billion by 2025, which indicates an opportunity for non-specialist retailers to claim a stake in this category. By unlocking opportunities through the rise of comfort dressing, discover which categories and trends offer buy-in.
MARKET OVERVIEW The current state of maternity wear Q2 saw the US maternity market contract 38 percent YoY and 23 percent QoQ. The UK dropped 36 percent YoY and 55 percent QoQ. Despite the lack of investment, demand was still apparent with sell outs surging across both regions. Arrivals categorised as maternity dropped 24 percent
since July YoY. A notable shift in assortments shows greater prioritisation of bottoms, with leggings the most invested style vs. jeans in 2019. With wellness
and comfort underpinning 2020 trends, investment in sleepwear has grown from 5.4 percent of maternity wear to 8.5 percent.
WHAT’S NEXT? The average woman experiences 31 size changes in her adult life, making it crucial to provide products that offer value for money, especially during the current economic fallout. With sustainability front of mind, there is demand for better-engineered “hackable” garments to grow with adults and avoid throwing out items that no longer fit.Look to incorporating features like extra fabric allowance around the hips, detachable belts, adjustable waistlines and internal drawstrings. In the maternity space, French brand Tajinebanane stands out as a pioneer offering apparel to make breastfeeding easier with T-shirts and dresses with discreet side openings and thick materials to conceal milk leaks. Consumers are not looking to forego their style and identity throughout pregnancy stages, creating the opportunity to back trends that can also be worn post-birth. The movement of pandemicaccelerated comfort dressing has led to many fall 2020 trends able to be adapted for this market without creating a standalone range so pregnant
10 I October 2020
and postpartum consumers can shop the same looks as their peers. Key callouts include elevated basics with a focus on longer-length tops, monochromatic and
tonal hues, soft fabrics like fleece and cashmere, chuck on dresses and relaxed suiting. Trend-lead details like oversized collars are an easy addition to modernize maternity tops and dresses.
INFLUENCER INSPIRATION There is no supporting evidence to back up the socalled impending wave of “coronababies” as couples spend more time together in lockdown, with a “baby bust” forecasted across the US and Europe due to economic uncertainty. However, there’s no denying the amount of new celebrity moms and expecting influencers in a more stable financial position who are documenting their journeys across social media. From Chrissy Teigen to Gigi Hadid, newsfeeds are ripe with high-end pregnancy styling to serve as inspiration for retailers wanting to emulate trends to their consumers.
shirts, jumpsuits/bodysuits, longline cardigans, wide-leg trousers, paperbag waists, chuck on dresses, knitted co-ords, hoodies, pajama dressing, tracksuits, luxe fabrics.
3. INTIMATES World Breastfeeding Week, which is celebrated each year in August’s first week, shined a spotlight on intimate apparel serving this consumer. Retailers including ThirdLove, True&Co and Pour Moi took to Instagram to raise awareness for the event and promote their nursing bras. With consumers working to normalise breastfeeding, bookmark this event to promote in 2021.
1. ACTIVEWEAR Following the rise of at-home workouts and the highly publicised upcoming launch of Nike M maternity sportswear, interest in activewear designed for pregnancy has piqued. The number of online styles in the US has increased by 58 percent compared to five years ago, yet the overall market remains relatively untapped. Maternity products only make up 0.5 percent of the total activewear market available in the US over the past three months making the timing ideal for investment.
jeggings, stretch panels, wide-leg silhouettes, fake front pockets, oversized shirts, pinafores.
TRENDS OF NOTE WORKLEISURE Office attire meets athleisure. Look to unstructured blazers, oversized shirts and chuck on dresses in smart and casual fabrics to cater to the WFH mum.
VOLUME Space-occupying shapes are favoured by expecting influencers. Promote midi and maxi house dresses with elasticated features and exaggerated sleeves.
BATHLEISURE Rooted in wellness and self-care, bathleisure is an ideal trend for mums and mums-to-be and can be achieved through pajamas, bathrobes and luxurious materials.
COTTAGECORE Designers paid homage to cottagecore on the recent Pre-Spring 2021 runways, securing the longevity of floaty dresses, dungarees and embroidery.
Recently, Kim Kardashian West’s Skims made headlines for its upcoming Maternity Solutionwear collection. Many were quick to assume the line was designed to hide and slim pregnant women, causing West to defend the products, addressing they provide lower back support and compression to ease pain caused by swelling. What to promote: high-waist briefs, wireless bras, soft cup styles, bodysuits, adjustable straps, seamless garments, silk, clip fastenings, triangle bras, bralettes, removable padding, leak resistant properties. What to promote: durable materials, four-way stretch, compression styles, high-waist leggings, seamless construction, cycling shorts, adjustable straps, support bands, mesh panels, moisture-wicking properties, jersey and rib knit, ruching or side-seam gatherings.
4. DENIM
2. LOUNGEWEAR Oversized and cozy trends complement the maternity market as many core items within the loungewear assortment lend themselves to pregnancy and postpartum dressing. Fall 2020 will see loungewear elevate to a more smart casual look with boyfriend dressing, seamless styles, ribbed knits, and bodysuits – all essentials that can be repackaged as maternity wear. What to promote: drawstring joggers, oversized
With more time spent at home and loungewear’s trajectory, denim assortments have struggled. However, stretch denim – essential for all maternity edits – has remained relevant with styles selling out since March up 21percent YoY. As loungewear evolves to include dressier elements and consumers yearn to head outdoors, interest in denim will be revived with comfort remaining a core factor. The 70s have been hailed as the standout era for fall 2020 denim inspiration, ideal to spotlight pregnancy-friendly shapes as listed below. What to promote: dungarees/overalls, elasticated waists, stretch denim, boilersuits, paperbag waists,
The average woman experiences 31 size changes in her adult life, making it crucial to provide products that offer value for money, especially during the current economic fallout.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 11
in detail
WYNN HAMLYN Wynn Hamlyn’s Resort 2021 collection was inspired by beautiful architecture that gave a directional sense of style without complication. The impact of COVID meant the team looked to create smaller, more impactful collections. Available at the end of October, the collection features fully fashioned knitwear and precision tailoring. A customer favourite is the Partner Trouser, a wardrobe and brand staple that every woman should have. Wynn Hamlyn’s design ethos is built around craft and curiosity. “My collections always display some elements of craft or technique that could be classically part of clothing or an introduced idea. I always like to add some sense of nostalgia to collections, by referring back to traditional knit stitches or adding details for a time or place I have seen.” Looking to partner with premium luxury concept retailers and department stores, wholesale enquiries can be directed to lana@wynnhamlyn.com.
colour trending
STAY IN L EQUIPMENT Resene Dark Web MIU MIU Resene Chateau Green
S
pring 2021 ready-to-wear collections were filled with a longtime classic – stripes. Whether it’s horizontal, vertical, diagonal, thick or thin, the stripe trend is not going anywhere. Oftentimes used to elongate figures or to send a direction for your eyes to drive to, it’s a simple but impactful concept that can be found in all aspects of fashion. So, stay in line with fashion trends and we welcome you to the familiar world of stripes. We saw ruffles and high collars in Prune Goldschmidt’s ready-to-wear Spring collection 2021. Alongside these ruffles and collars we saw the repeated
use of stripes; slim or wide, used throughout. This look, in particular, incorporates traditional navyinspired colours of red, white and navy, with the crisp red shade being similar to Resene Havoc. The extreme ruff-styled collar is finished with a clean and feminine bow-tie. The wide horizontal stripes in navy, red and white, are bold and fresh. A stripe trend will never be complete without a classic combo like this. Stefan Cooke’s ready-to-wear Spring 2021 collection embraced line patterns with horizontal stripes, diagonal stripes, vertical stripes and checkered patterns - just to name a few. Vests are making a comeback this
PRUNE GOLDSCHMIDT Resene Havoc
season, and this knitted vest in particular sports a red and maroon diagonal striped pattern over top speckles of different shades of beige. The warm beige, like Resene Crowdpleaser, is a soft hue that allows the red diagonal striped pattern to shine. Paired with a joggerstyle pant and a small crossbody bag, the knitted vest can be easily dressed up or worn casually as seen here. Big, bright and bold. These are three words that come to mind when we discover Christopher John Rogers’ recent Spring collection. Christopher John Rogers, the designer of his namesake label, took inspiration from an array of spaces. Rogers, who found
LINE LOUIS VUITTON Resene Charcoal STEFAN COOKE Resene Crowdpleaser
himself being bored of watching TV to pass time during lockdown, ordered several packs of markers, pens and coloured pencils to spark his creative juices. He loved the idea of using primary colours and simple shapes and thus, we see the birth of this colourful and playful collection. This striped jumper mixed cool and warm tones unapologetically together, a fun twist on a simple design. Mix functional sportswear with eveningwear and you get Miu Miu’s Spring 2021 collection. Dresses, bikini briefs, chain belts and track jackets graced the Miu Miu runway for thousands to view via Zoom.
This aqua green and white striped turtle neck, similar to Resene Chateau Green, is bright and cheerful something we all need during this time. Paired with a flirty mini dress embellished with white and green rhinestones, catching the light with every strut. Designer Nicolas Ghesquiere celebrated line patterns in this silky knee-length dress with both thick and thin variations of stripes. This dress moves effortlessly with your body and its unique combination of stripes allows it to be a standout piece on its own. The mix of warm and cold whites along with a stark black, like Resene Charcoal,
CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS Resene Yes Please
adds extra visual interest to an otherwise minimal monochromatic look. Equipment’s ready-to-wear Spring 2021 collection brings stylish and fashion-forward office looks to the table. You can never go wrong with a matching co-ord set. This simple and flowy set is perfect for days where you need to go from office desks to meetings to afterwork drinks with friends. The brushed stripe effect in a hue like Resene Dark Web is unique and organic. Moreover, the vertical stripes help elongate the figure making for a more flattering silhouette when worn.
HEJ HEJ
in detail
Co-designers Alice Isles and Kiki Judd created their latest collection, Linen To Live By, to celebrate their love of colourful linens, and especially their custom daisy embroidery. “This year, more than ever, we wanted to bring happiness through our designs. We wanted people to put on a piece and feel like they’d taken a breath of fresh air.” The collection features puffy-sleeved party dresses alongside tailored blazers and pants. With fresh hues of sky blue, gold and cherry red, and a custom embroidered daisy, this collection reminds us of the frivolity, happiness and fun in fashion. With look-good-whilemumming dresses (Eat Sleep Repeat and BFF), puffysleeved party pieces (All Puffed Up Top and Baby Cakes Dress) and casual workwear numbers (Trailblazer Blazer and Sidekick Skirt), the duo think there is something for everyone in this collection.
16 I October 2020
Hej hej always uses 100 percent linen fabrics, because it is a natural fabric that’s extremely durable and versatile and of course looks great in any colour. This season, they selected stonewashed medium weight linens in gold and cherry alongside a luxurious lightweight linen in sky blue, and a signature heavyweight indigo linen. “The hand feel of the stonewash qualities is really special. It really feels great on and gets softer the more you wash and wear it. We chose a range of weights so we could use a specific weight for each style.” For example, the heavyweight linen works great for pants or trans-seasonal dresses like the Heartstrings Dress, whereas the lightweight linen is perfect for creating voluminous summer dresses like the Babydoll Savage. This season hej hej worked alongside Yvonne, their linen expert in Shanghai, to create their first-ever custom
embroidered linen. “Yvonne loves linen as much as we do and her technical knowledge of the fabric is second to none.” The process took about three months to design the fabric. There are so many factors for the duo to consider; the weight and colour of the base fabric, the yarn type and colour of the embroidery, the shape and spacing of the daisy, and so on. “We’re lucky that Kiki lives in Shanghai and can meet with Yvonne to touch and feel the linen and go through all the details in person,” said Isles. This collection also highlights the brand’s first ever one-sized linen piece – the All Puffed Up Top. Popular styles from hej hej are their Eat Sleep Repeat, Babydoll Savage, and their signature Fancy Pants. “These were some of the first styles we ever developed and they continue to be crowd favourites.”
meet the buyer
HUSK Peri Ridge has been around fashion for 16 years and shows no sign of stopping. From humble beginnings on the shop floor to working her way up the corporate ladder to Head Office, Ridge has been at every level. A valuable experience, Ridge credited it as key in her professional development. “Learning from your customers is something I truly believe in and was a big part of how I approach my role today,” revealed Ridge. Her current position at Husk has been ten years in the making. “On completion of my studies the CEO of Husk offered me my absolute dream role of Head Women’s Apparel Buyer,” reminisced Ridge, but the role has been more than dreamy. The department was developed under Ridge in the first 12 months of her tenure, an undertaking that saw it take on more than ever. “In the current iteration of my role I travel twice a year to NYC, Paris and Milan” she added. Though she has worked hard at expansion, the client is always Ridge’s focus. “Husk is made for the woman living a life less ordinary,” she maintained, and with that mantra in mind, she keeps her vision clear. In addition to carrying the Husk eponymous brand, the boutique also curates products that compliment their apparel, creating a cohesive experience. You won’t find the same-old in Husk, because they strive to be as unique as their clients. “I would say we work more holistically with trends, ensuring we are not following what the market is doing instead nodding to particular aspects and aligning with our target market,” explained Ridge. The target market is about to get bigger for Husk. In addition to the 12 stores across Australia, New Zealand will see it’s first store in Westfield Newmarket. It will be a welcome addition to the mall with its diverse selection of apparel, accessories, and homewares. Though it is not a mass department store, Ridge insists that boutiques can be just as valuable for designers, and that’s all thanks to the relationships they foster. “We work incredibly closely with our brands and have a constant feedback loop. We are highly collaborative and want to ensure that the relationship is successful and impactful for both parties,” noted Ridge. The Newmarket location will aid Husk’s idea of “attainable luxury”, with prices ranging from $99 to $899 AUD. Strength is a key philosophy with Ridge, from her vision of her client to the designers that she looks for. Being able to hold your own in the digital age is important, and nothing stands like strength according to Ridge. “[The] ability to tell their brand story is key, their narrative needs to be emotive,” offered Ridge. With Husk’s aesthetic being described as “dynamic” and “unique” it is no surprise that Ridge wants designers to pop online. “Clients are better educated on the offer that is out there and expects a quality product at a competitive and obtainable price. Looking to the future, Ridge has her eye on the upcoming seasons, with trends to draw from in mind. Headbands, crossbody bags, and bright metallic leathers are her picks for the accessories while snake, pastels and fuchsia are the picks for apparel. On the decline, Ridge predicts we will be saying goodbye to the insta-famous dad sneaker and PVC. Where Ridge decides to include these will remain to be seen but the discovery and a desire for something new will definitely be in Husk’s fashion forecast.
accessory alert
KETZ-KE X CLAYBIRD
K
etz-ke has teamed up with Claybird for a unique collaboration of homewares. Second only to fashion is Ketz-ke founder Jenny Drury’s love of fabulous homewares. When Drury needs inspiration and to step away from clothing, she always turns to beautiful and interesting objects. A collaboration with ceramic artist Claybird was a natural choice. Drury also loves to bake so it was a no brainer to co-design a mug and cake plate that makes a stylish addition to morning or afternoon tea. The womenswear designer has always loved what Yon of Claybird creates and has followed her on social media for a number of years. “I own a couple of her pieces and always give them as gifts to friends and family,” Drury added. “Her pieces are the perfect present for the person who has everything.”
Drury loved that Yon has a very similar business model to hers too. The duo both live and breathe their brands as well as being a mother and wife in between. “Her commitment and creativity really resonated with me so it was an easy process from step one,” said Drury. “When we discovered that her HQ was also on the North Shore in Auckland, just down the road from me, it felt like it was meant to be!” They had a lot of fun coming up with concepts for the collaboration together. The cake plate and mug were a natural choice given how much baking Drury does and when it came to the design it was a very similar process to designing a fashion print. “I knew I wanted something monotone as I have always been attracted to the Claybird black criss-cross print. Adding the initial ‘K’ inside the cup created a nice link between the two brands.”
The Claybird sand is from Waihi Beach – a place that both Yon and Drury both have a very special connection to. Yon has a family link there and it holds a very special place in Drury's heart as this is where her family beach house is. Drury love going there and is always inspired after a trip to this blissful spot. Yon is a slip caster by trade – all Claybird pieces are designed and made into moulds by her. She uses porcelain clay sourced and made in New Zealand and adds the Waihi Beach sand. Depending on where the ceramics are placed in the kiln, they become lighter or darker, taking on their own personality. There are two items – a mug and a side plate. "This just seemed a perfect fit for me as I am very well known for my baking. Coffee and cake are on the menu every day here at Ketz-ke HQ so we knew we needed special Ketz-ke x Claybird serving set!"
The duo both live and breathe their brands as well as being a mother and wife in between.
@ravenandrose
www.ravenandroselingerie.com
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in detail
GOOD&CO
24 I October 2020
Aptly titled Stay Local, GOOD&CO’s Spring/ Summer 2020 collection was inspired by a collection of photographs captured in their backyard during New Zealand’s nationwide lockdown. These photographs have been transformed into wearable art. “Being a travel inspired brand we were forced to rethink our new and future seasons when the borders were closed earlier this year due to the pandemic,” explained Lillie Toogood. She added that being 'stuck' in New Zealand isn't so bad. New Zealand is such a beautiful country and inspiration for the
collection and the ones to follow are easy to find here. “We're excited about the shift to look locally for our designs.” In this collection, they were finding a different way of looking at known Auckland locations as they transformed them into a range of stunning textile artworks. Locations include; Parnell Baths, Westhaven Marina, The Harbour Bridge, The Viaduct, Newton Valley, Silo Park. The pieces are made from silk chiffon, linen/cotton blends, silk crepe, and a new silk/cotton blend. This is a great
selection of textiles for summer where the team can offer small and large scarves at a variety of price points to expand their audience. “As with every GOOD&CO piece, the vibrant images become abstract studies in colour when worn; each scarf ’s setting is the wearer’s stylish secret until unfurled.” The collection is available for wholesale now with immediate delivery. For more information or to become a stockist, email hello@wearegoodandco.com.
We're excited about the shift to look locally for our designs.
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BLACK FRI-NAY
edited
WILL BLACK FRIDAY EXIST IN FIVE YEARS? AN INDUSTRY ON THE BRINK OF A RESET AND PRESSURE FROM CONSUMERS DEMANDING CHANGE. COULD THIS SPELL AN END TO ONE OF THE MOST SIGNIFICANT EVENTS ON THE RETAIL CALENDAR? THE UPRISING CONTINUES AGAINST THE INDUSTRY’S RETURN TO A ‘NORMAL’ WHERE EXCESS CONSUMPTION AND PROFITS IS PRIORITIZED OVER PEOPLE AND THE PLANET. AS A RESULT, THE RELEVANCE OF BLACK FRIDAY IN A POST-COVID WORLD IS BEING QUESTIONED AND RETAILERS EXPLORE ALTERNATIVES TO MASS DISCOUNTING. The pandemic has encouraged retailers to rethink and reset their traditional trade processes, helping to break fashion’s addiction to discounting. Combined with the number of retailers who boycotted the event last year as a stance against overproduction as well as the new wave of conscious consumers, could this spell an end to one of the most significant events on the retail calendar?
KEY TAKEAWAYS • So far, there is nothing to suggest Black Friday won’t go ahead for the majority of online retailers this year. However, it has been losing its luster for several years now and will certainly never be the same again postpandemic. • Steep markdowns taken at the height of the pandemic combined with retailers trying to break consumers’ addiction to sales will make it challenging to justify an aggressive discounting strategy this Black Friday. • COVID-19 has acted as a catalyst for a more considerate approach to retail processes. It is backed by new consumer groups investing in the brands striving for positive change, giving back to social causes and supporting small businesses, indicating a shift away from the excessive consumption popularised throughout this event. • Retailers may be tempted to markdown heavily if consumers have less disposable income post-COVID. Yet, it opens up a broader conversation for businesses to re-examine their pricing structures to ensure it serves those on both ends of the supply chain.
26 I October 2020
1. IS IT PREVENTING FULL PRICE SALES? Month-long discounts are making the event redundant As expected, the proportion of products reduced in November 2019 in the US shows a clear spike around the Black Friday period. What’s interesting is the average discount amount was at its highest over the event, but it still didn’t fall below 40 percent, indicating substantial markdowns offered throughout this month. In the UK, discounting was more conservative. There was an apparent rise in the reduction rate over Black Friday, yet the proportion of products marked down dropped compared to the start of the month. Combined with Singles Day on November 11th and Prime Day’s potential move to October this year, Q4 is set to be even more discountladen than usual. The month-long reductions and pre-sale events have trained customers to expect sales outside of the allocated period, making it even more challenging to sell at full price and diminishing the impact of these events.
fig 1.
2. ARE AGGRESSIVE REDUCTIONS NECESSARY? With reductions reaching Black Friday levels due to COVID-19, retailers need to wean customers off heavy discounting Discounting is at a saturation point. Last year, retailers hit peak Black Friday and pulled back on discounting as deep as previous years. While the pandemic’s disruption may be tempting to use this year’s event to reduce prices severely, it will only harm retailers in the long run. Research by PwC found online discounting in May reached Black
fig 2. Friday levels with retailers slashing prices to sell through the inventory piling up due to store closures. EDITED data supports this. Comparing the average weekly discount throughout May vs. the 2019 Black Friday period confirms reductions were taken at a similar rate.
For the US, on average, the weekly discount amount was 44 percent – on par with 45 percent during Black Friday. May coincided with two UK bank holidays and bumped the average weekly discount amount to 37 percent, higher than 35 percent over Black Friday.
US retailers discounted a greater proportion of their online stock in May compared to the Black Friday period. The weekly average of products reduced in May is 52 percent compared to 47 percent. For
the UK, proportions were level at 43 percent. In addition to summer sales starting earlier, businesses can’t afford to go any deeper post-COVID. Retailers need to recession-proof
their discounting strategies, steer clear of aggressive markdowns favoured during the previous GFC, which sparked customers aversion to paying full price for products. Last year’s Black Friday proved heavy
markdowns aren’t always an incentive to buy – this was especially prominent in the UK where the bulk of Black Friday sell outs were discounted between 20-30 percent off in contrast to the US at 50-60 percent off.
3. THE GREAT RESET AND THE NEW CONSUMER
reboot holds value for brands of all sizes. Product seasonality has become increasingly out of sync with today’s customers ‘buy-now wear-now’ preference, resulting in premature markdowns that fuel events such as Black Friday. With products dropping closer to season, discounting can reset to its original cadence and return to being used as a tool to clear slow-moving stock twice a year, eroding the often-
described rampant consumerism associated with heavy discounting events like Black Friday. The purpose-driven consumer is educated on how businesses are treating their workers and the planet. Along with the rise of CARLY, the community-driven Gen-Z cohort which demands transparency from its brands, there is a reckoning of consumers trying to promote positive change and prevent the industry
from returning to its destructive ‘normal.’ Examples from last year that resonate with this group include Sézane promoting ‘Give-Back Friday’ – donating 10 percent of US sales to Pencils of Promise or Everlane’s Black Friday Fund. Green Friday continues to gain traction. Last year, Roberto Cavalli collaborated with Treedom to plant a tree for every purchase from 1,000 customers.
An industry-wide reboot will benefit all retailers, aligning with the values of post-pandemic consumer groups As physical fashion weeks resume, interest in the issue that arose around rewiring the fashion calendar during the early days of the pandemic has subsided. While it may take 12-24 months for any changes to be in place post-COVID, an industry-wide
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Some may argue Black Friday discounts allow people to purchase goods they couldn’t usually afford ahead of the holidays, perhaps even more crucial due to the rising unemployment rate from COVID-19. However, the added discount to the already low cost to the consumer usually means marginalised communities in poorer countries are suffering for it and are most at risk to the impact of throwaway fashion purchased during these blowout sales being discarded shortly after. With awareness growing around Intersectional Environmentalism and the welfare of garment workers, retailers and consumers are taking a stand against overproduction within the industry and opting to boycott the event altogether. Brother Vellies uses Black Friday to educate consumers that it never goes on sale to ensure its artisans are paid fairly. This also appeals to the price aware consumer, who understands the costs of running a business and supports more modest companies prioritizing Small Business Saturday over Black Friday.
4. ALTERNATIVES TO SALES
For businesses that can’t afford to cease trade, the rise in community importance can compliment the reframing discounting periods as rewards for loyal consumers. Last Black Friday, Eileen Fisher offered 20 percent off as a thank you for being part of the community while LN-CC promoted a private sale.
28 I October 2020
With the event now digitalized, retailers need to engage with their consumers outside of discounting. Retailers are clued in on the reset of values post-COVID. Walmart plans to break its decade-long tradition of starting Black Friday sales early on Thanksgiving Day, shuttering stores and encouraging employees to spend the time with loved ones while paying $428m in special bonuses. Target, Kohl’s and Best Buy have also just announced they will be closed for the day. While Walmart is yet to comment on whether its stores will reopen for Black Friday, there’s no doubt all retailers will struggle holding in-store events this year with fears of spreading COVID-19. The pandemic will see the event shift even further to digital, making it all the more important to engage with
online communities. Even before store closures, retailers used their platforms to engage with consumers over this time without promoting deep discounts. Last year, Eastpak veered away from promotional activity to share positive stories on Black Friday. Cuyana brought the focus back to giving with intention, and shared one gift a day from Black Friday to Giving Tuesday as well as offered complimentary monogramming and handwritten notes. #blackfriday currently has 383.6m views on TikTok, presenting an opportunity to connect with the
Gen-Z users who are shaping these events’ future.
5. DOES THE EVENT NEED A REBRAND? In recent years, an internet rumor circulated suggesting that Southern plantation owners could buy slaves at a discounted price following Thanksgiving in the 1800s. While it’s been debunked by multiple sources, retailers getting on board this year should look to reposition the event to remain sensitive to the Black Lives Matter movement. Alternatives from last year span from ‘Cyber’ and ‘Super’ sales to riffs on product categories.
EXAMPLES OF ALTERNATIVE MESSAGES FROM RETAILERS IN 2019: • Cyber Sale: Carbon38, Koral, Nordstrom, Boden • Indigo Friday: Levi’s • Pink Friday: BySymphony • Super Sale: Negative Underwear • Green Friday: Roberto Cavalli • Friends Friday: Esprit • Feel-Good Friday: Free People
Bag Friday: Lulu Guinness Best Friday Ever: Accessorize Seasonal Sale: Rachel Comy Semi-Annual Signature Sale: Hanky Panky • Stack Friday Sale: Alex and Ani • b Friday: Agnès b • • • •
Order now at jerome@notforyouclothing.com
Made in New Zealand
meet the buyer
THE STANDARD STORE This Australian boutique has a unique insight into the industry, as lead buyer Nicola Reindorf explained. “We had a distribution agency ten years before we decided to move into retail, so we have a great insight into how other buyers worked, from large department stores to little boutiques.” This understanding and experience were priceless for the company, who have outlets in the heart of both Melbourne and Sydney, fashion capitals for the country. When it comes to buying, Reindorf expressed her store’s commitment to providing its customers with unique fashion experience. “We are always on the search for something new and unique, particularly brands that have little exposure in Australia.” The Standard Store’s customers have a great variation as the boutique specialises in both men’s and women’s wear and has a variety of ages coming through their doors. The customer could be anyone who appreciates good quality, unique pieces. When looking for new designers, what is essential to Reindorf is not their reputation or existing reach but unique beauty and impeccable quality. “What stands out for us is a brand with a point of a difference yet being still commercially viable. Good quality is a must, nothing mass-produced,” she explained. “Like our customer
30 I October 2020
base, our designer portfolio is very broad. We have quite a few different styles going on but with one recurring theme: Beautiful, well-made pieces.” The price point of selected brands is also a central feature for this retailer, as they are conscious of retaining the attention of their customers. “We are mid-range, it’s important that you have some good entry price points we don’t want to alienate our customers. But as we deal with foreign currency, it is very dependent on our dollar, which unfortunately is not as strong as it was a few years ago,” related Reindorf. However, a good price point is not to be confused with adhering to the throwaway fashion trend, as The Standard Store’s consumers do not adhere to the fad. “It is amazing how savvy and environmentally aware the young consumer has become; they would prefer to buy one good piece that will stand the test of time rather than lots of cheap throwaway pieces that damage the environment.” For Reindorf, one of the keys to their boutique’s success is in the quality of the designers they stock, and this belief in quality over quantity has extended from their collections to their operations. “Retail is a tough business, and there is always this expectation that you need to expand to be successful. We opened
our third store in Barangaroo in 2017, and it was a disaster. We promptly closed it in 2018,” she shared. “Bigger is not necessarily better.” Adapting to your market is a skill Reindorf and her team have been greatly focused on, and their method of buying reflects this adaptability. “We have two large drops a year and then a further two smaller drops for precollections. Most of the designers we stock are from overseas with reverse seasons,” informed Reindorf. However, rather than attempting to combat this seemingly reverse order, the store has embraced the difference and simply allocates costs differently. “We are finding that we are spending more on precollections and less on main as it's more relevant for our climate.” For brand’s looking to The Standard Store for potential retail opportunities, Reindorf was able to provide some firm advice. “Approach retailers with professionalism, don’t just walk in off the street,” she insisted. “We are inundated with emails every week from designers and to be honest I delete most of them without reading them. You have to go above and beyond to get an appointment, that shows commitment to what you are doing. Don’t just rely on emails; make a personal connection.”
It is amazing how savvy and environmentally aware the young consumer has become; they would prefer to buy one good piece that will stand the test of time rather than lots of cheap throwaway pieces that damage the environment.
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