Surf Art Magazine #56

P h o t o : Ta i Va n d y ke

THE QUEEN OF PIPELINE

MOANA WONG ALOHA

ISSUE

#56

· FREE MAGAZINE · APRIL - JUNE 2022

On the cover: Moana Wong

Moana Wong has written a new chapter in the surfing history books. The Hawaiia 2

an surfer has been crowned the queen of Pipeline at just 22 years old.

Photos: Tai Vandyke

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06 10 12 26

MASON BARNES Surfer of the month

HAWAIIAN WAVES Infography

GUY MAC Filmmaker

KALEY RAHER Surf Art

Dirección, Edición y Fotografía: Luz Marie Castillo. Diseño, Diagramación y Dirección de Arte: Virginia Cruz. Redacción: Kristin Gastineau. COLABORADORES: Moana Wong | Mason Barnes | Finna Christersen | Nick Andrew | Guy Mac | Balaram Stack | Christa Funk | John John Florence | Billy Fortier | Ryan Prester | Conner Coffin | Kalei Raher | Phil Roberts. IMPRESIÓN: Corporación Litográfica. TODOS LOS DERECHOS RESERVADOS, PROHIBIDA LA REPRODUCCIÓN DE TEXTOS, IMÁGENES Y FOTOGRAFÍAS. Todas las fotografías son por y de exclusividad de Luz Marie Castillo, Guatemala. Copyright 2016.

Si quieres anunciarte con nosotros, escríbenos: the.surf.art@gmail.com / @surf_artmag

BEST WINTER EVER! North Shore, Oahu had an epic season with swell after swell this winter. The most repeated swells we’ve seen in 18 years!

The energy was high all season and everyone was beyond ecstatic to have so many consistent good waves in so many different spots. We were beyond stoked to have numerous contests this season that demonstrated an insane amount of talent. History was made at the infamous Pipeline Pro Masters. For the first time ever, a women’s heat was introduced. Not to mention Kelly Slater won his 8th Pipeline event. The seven mile miracle never ceases to amaze surfers and spectators alike. Images captured by talented photographers both in the water and out allow the world to see a glimpse into the heart and soul of the blue Hawaiian waves and it’s rirders.

Best wave of the day. Seth Moniz at the HIC Pipe Pro 2021 Luz Castil lo

Carles Medina | @_carlesmedina_ Noora Lindström | @wateryphotos

@gonzolenz

MaSon bARnes @masonhycebarnes

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What motivates you to surf big waves?

It’s one of those things that always leaves you wanting more.

You ride a giant wave and you want a bigger one. That feeling is like nothing I’ve ever felt, and it’s something I’ll chase forever.

What do you believe to be one of your

When you’re not surfing,

Who are some of your inspirations?

Billy Kemper, Twiggy and Koa Rothman.

what does your down time look like?

If I’m not surfing I’m training, in the gym, or doing something to help my body recover, like sauna and ice.

Are there any big wave spots that you haven’t surfed that you’d like to?

I really want to go to Mulleghmore in Ireland, it looks like a dream wave.

weaknesses and what are you doing to improve it?

My weakness is one that will live with me forever, and it’s fear.

Always learning how to let fear go and commit 100 percent.

What are some of your performance goals for 2022?

I want to get an official invite to the Eddie, my all time dream contest to compete in.

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Model: Finna Christensen findingfinna Photo: Nick Andrew nickandreww

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OLAS DE

HAWAII

La ubicación de las islas es el entorno ideal para una gran variedad de oleaje y consistencia para todos los niveles durante casi todo el año; mientras el invierno mantiene el nivel para los profesionales, el verano permite más lugares para los principiantes.

CLIMA y ub i caci ó n I D E A L Existen varias formas en que se generan las olas, pero la más común es debido a los fuertes vientos y las altas temperaturas.

LA TIERRA Los sismos en el mar también generan olas, estas varían según la magnitud.

MAR DE FONDO Las olas en la superficie se generan por el viento y las tormentas comunes en la región.

Olas internas altas pero lentas se producen en lo profundo del mar bajo el agua caliente.

TEMPERATURA No solo el viento le brinda dificultad a las olas, el aire caliente influye en el oleaje, aumentando la fuerza con la que puede desplazar agua.

VELOCIDAD En aguas profundas serán rápidas y cerca de la costa serán lentas. La pendiente pronunciada de las playas de Hawaii ayuda a mantener su velocidad.

l as mej ore s o l as PIPELINE: Ideal para túneles pero tiene arrecifes filosos que pueden lesionar facilmente.

HONOLUA “THE BAY”: Diferentes lugares para surfear con buenos túneles de varios niveles.

Hay arrecifes y tiburones en la zona.

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PE’AHI “JAWS”: Las olas mas grandes y peligrosas que pueden levantarse hasta 20 metros.

Max. 20 m

Max. 20 m

Max. 9 m

Promedio: 6m

SUNSET: Olas grandes y fuertes, entre 5 y 10 metros de alto. Cuenta con una gran variedad de olas para todos los estilos.

Promedio: 5m

Promedio: 5m

Promedio: 6m

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GUy MAc I’m 32 years old from Great Barrier Island, New Zealand

I've been shooting surfing for the last 10 years, for me it started as a hobby, taking a little DSLR and a gopro on surf trips and getting a few line up shots to show my friends at home. My first real surf filming trip was in 2013 when a friend from New Zealand took me to Hawaii to make him a couple of edits. That was my first time seeing professional surfing at that level and kicked everything off for me.

After putting out a couple of web edits I started getting offered jobs shooting for surfers all over the world. It was a sick way to see the world and surf a lot of different waves. Over the last 5 years I've been working more on documentaries and commercials which has been a cool learning process. In April last year I left New Zealand to shoot the Australian

Olympic

campaign

and then covid hit, I was stuck in Oz for 2 months before making the decision to take off and chase swells again. The mission took me to Tahiti and then onto Hawaii. It's been an endless run of waves and good times.

My goal for 2022 is just to get home for the moment, waiting for New Zealand to open up and then I will get home, reset and plan for the year ahead. guy__mac

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No playground like the sea. Balaram surfing Pipeline.

Photo: Christa Funk

joHn john florence

Luz Castillo

the burden of being injured so

was

he felt it was mostly catch up

recovery interventions such as

rather than skill improvement

red light therapy, hyperbaric

interventions. Like the cham-

chambers, sensory deprivation

pion John is he gave his 100%

float

effort into the training program

acupuncture, eating the right

For the Haleiwa event John did an amazing job of

and progressed extremely well to

diet, and staying vigilant the

capturing the physical and mental preparation to

the result in John showing up on

entire time. He did all that on his

maximize his potential.

the day of the event to surf as if

own discipline because John is

he was free from injury.

the type of person that feels he

TRAINING WITH DANIEL BACHMAN

Leading into the event he was coming off a massive push to get

dedicating

tanks,

himself

tissue

to

work,

can always seek improvements.

him ready for the Olympics with training sometimes 6 days a week

To see John come into the gym

There was no "off" day for john

specifically focusing on his surgical knee that had been repaired.

with a rather strong limp and

during this time, every day was

With so much focus on the Olympic event John was actually

then progress his way into

dedicated full force to the

questioning if he was going to compete in the Haleiwa because he

performing as he did for both

healing of his knee. I cannot

felt a little bit burnt out from rigorous Olympic preparation. It was

the Olympics and the Haleiwa

speak more highly on his ability

really cool to see John to come to a conclusion of surfing in the

event was a true privilege. The

to hone in on a goal and no

event but taking all the pressure off with the mindset of just going

expedited process from surgery

matter what that goal is going to

out there and surfing without any attachment to having to win. He

to Olympics was such a finite

materialize

wanted to just surf as if it was a normal day with no extra stress.

window I can honestly say I had

manner that John sets into

my doubts. John is truly an

motion. John is a special kind of

The recovery process was equally mental and physical. This would be

outlier when it comes to who he

person.

his second knee surgery but this time it was on the other knee. It was

is as an athlete and as a person

privileged to witness what he is

a good comparison from his previous knee surgery so he had an idea

in general. I would only see John

able to accomplish.

of what to expect. Like any athlete, John had an expectation for

for 60-90 minutes of the day, all

john_ john_florence

himself to train as hard as he had done for a previous event without

of the other hours of the day he

dbachfitness

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on

I

feel

the

timely

extremely

Skater: Billy Fortier billyinhawaii Photo: Ryan Prester ryprester

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The heart of Brazil and the soul of Hawaii #maoiswim @maoiswim | julia@maoiswim.com

Classic Conner Coffin Power.

Photo: Luz Castillo

H AWA I I A N I S S U E 2 0 2 2

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malikhurdman @_balaram throughout the day.

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448 likes parkerndavis My fuckin boy number 1!! Well deserved brother so stoked for you

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santiagobisso #SHOTBYBISSO

__skywalka__

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aguatography The universe provides

__skywalka__ below sea level @chachfiles

germainfilms Looks good.

Garden Restaurant & Cocktail Bar

4ta Calle Oriente CC La Fuente Antigua Guatemala

This is living Koa Rothman and barrels.

The goat finding one at backdoor Kelly Slater. Photos: Luz Castillo 24

Nathan Florence enjoying Backdoor.

Alex Gray in the right place. #offthewall.

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Kalei Raher

She is known for her unique digital collages.

Tapping into the sensitivities, heart-strings, and personal experiences we all connect on.

Kalei lives in her art. It’s part of her morning ritual to create a collage, and tell a story through her nostalgic imagery. You can see her personal journey in every piece. Pulling and cutting from textures, colors, and beauty, Kalei draws us into the magic of her.

She is not afraid to push the limits of the mind and call you to take action. Raher reminds us the importance of our own stories & the power of vulnerability. She has shown her work in Paia, Maui at the Pau Gallery, Mojo Fest on the North Shore of Oahu, and San Francisco where she is originally from. Most recently she created 18 original collages for an exclusive Billabong gift box curated by Bree Poort, creative director of Mojo, for the CT women surfers.

There is no way of knowing what she will do next, but just like her art, she always leaves us wanting more. kaleiraher

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Phil Robe rts @philrobe rtsart