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A W ORD WITH JOE G Th e id ea o f discover in g p er f ec tio n in o n e sin gular place is an en ticin g o n e. Fo r p r o f essi o n al su r f e rs, it’s ac tu al ly th ei r jo b. Bu t, eve n a casual sur f er w i l l sp e n d a l ar ge ch u n k o f th ei r lif e r a m blin g an d drea m in g a b o u t th e pl ace that h olds p er f ec t w aves. A sle e py lit tle bay d o w n in Ce n t r al A m er ica w ith a n e n dless le f t p oin t. A tiny isl an d in In d o n esi a w ith a dr ainin g r i gh than d er. It’s o u t th ere, r i gh t? For th e GLO BE cre w, o ur search is an u nin te n tio nal r itual that rol ls o u t th e sa m e w ay over a n d over a gain. It go es like this: W e a r e e nj o y i n g a s u r f t r i p t o a n i n c r e d i bl e l o c a t i o n a n d h av i n g t h e t i m e o f o u r l iv e s. T h e n, a t d i n n e r o v e r a f e w b e e r s s o m e o n e s t a r t s t a l k i n g a b o u t a n e w pl a ce t o d i s c o v e r. W e h av e t o g o t h e r e. Sh a n g r i L a. It’s a pl a ce w e’v e h e a r d a b o u t, b u t h av e n e v e r b e e n. S o m e pl a ce w it h p e r f e c t w av e s a n d c o n d it i o n s a n d n o o n e e l s e a r o u n d. A v i r g i n l a n d a l l t o o u r s e lv e s. Pl a n s a r e m a d e. B u d g e t s a r e w r a n g l e d. Ti cke t s a r e b o u g h t. W e sp e n d 4 d ays r i di n g i n pl a n es, b u ses, ta x i s a n d f e r r ies a n d f i n a l ly, w e m a ke it. At l a s t, p a r a d i s e. O r i s it? W e are e x hauste d w h e n w e ar r ive an d it’s n ever like w hat w e i m a gin e d. Th e sa n d is w ro n g. Th e w in d is o u t o f a w ei rd di rec tio n. Th e tid es are to o e x t re m e. Th e h o tel bar is o u t o f Ja m eso n. It’s n ever Shan g r i La. For a m o m e n t, w e are ac tual ly disa p p oin te d... Bu t th e pl a ce i s b ea u tif ul. A n d th e p e o ple a r e w a r m a n d f r ie n dly. A n d th e lo cal r u m is ac tual ly q uite nice. Af ter a f e w d ays, w e ge t o ur b ear in gs a n d thin gs b e gin to tur n. W e star t chip pin g a w ay an d discover in g th e b eau t y a n d by th e e n d o f th e t r ip w e’ve al m ost al w ays sur f e d a m azin g w aves, m a d e g reat f r ie n ds an d ha d a h eck o f a lo t o f f u n. Th e ti m e o f o ur lives, eve n. A n d th e n o n th e l ast ni gh t, w hi le at din n er havin g a f e w b eers, so m e o n e star ts talkin g ab o u t a n e w pl ace to discover. W e have to go th ere. Shan g r i La. Pl ans. Bu d ge ts. Ticke ts. A n d a w ay w e go. A gain a n d a gain, over an d over. Chasin g this drea m as far as it w i l l take us... Th e id ea f or o ur fi l m, St ra n g e Ru m blin gs in Sh a n gri La, ca m e f ro m this r itual o f o urs. A n e ter nal q u est f or p er f ec tio n an d th e realizatio n that it d o es n o t e x ist. Fur th er m ore, it ca m e f ro m th e realizatio n that if th e “p er f ec t ” pl ace real ly w as o u t th ere, w e’d sti l l r u n a w ay f ro m it as fast as w e p ossibly co uld. Th e b eau t y o f w hat w e are chasin g is in its elusiven ess. W e’ll n ever ac tually get th ere an d that’s w hat keeps us goin g a n d goin g a n d goin g, a n d than k G o d f or that. Because real ly, w h e n it co m es d o w n to it, I d o n’t thin k any o f us ever w an t this r id e to e n d. — JOE G
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EDITO RIAL Editor | Zander Morton Creative Director | Chato Aganza Photo Editor | Peter Taras Travel and Media Manager | Jimmy Wilson Managing Editor | Leo Maxam Art Director | Noa Emberson Online Editor | Brendan Buckley Editor at Large | Taylor Paul Editor at Large | Beau Flemister Editorial Assistant | Mike Misselwitz Art Intern | Antoine Justes
PH O TO S DJ Struntz
W O RDS Chas Smith
COVER PHOTO:
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Iceland p.011
France p.020
Brazil p.036
Indonesia p.046
Mozambique p.066
Bali p.080
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This time they were n o t t r av e l i n g , g e t t i n g barreled, throwing tweaked stale fishes, f i l m i n g , c av o r t i n g w i t h models for a simple surf f i l m . T h i s t i m e i t wa s a commissioned art piece and Joe G wa s l o ok i ng at t h e w hol e wor l d di f f er en t ly.
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Nate Tyler, Brendon Gibbens and Dion Agius 15
Brendon Gibbens
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The cold dug i n t o t h e i r very souls but t h e l igh t wa s m agn i f icen t. A sort of dr e a m y, p e r p e t u a l evening glow w h e r e a l l things feel clean, even dirty things like dirty sex. 17
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Brendon Gibbens
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Nate Tyler
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It ta k e s on ly f i v e hou r s a n d fort yfive minutes from Ne w Yo r k . No t e v e n enough time to read the introduct i o n t o Wa r a n d Peace, which DJ h ad forgotten at his North Carolina hom e , a n y how.
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Noa
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Deane
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Creed McTaggart
Noa Deane
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Dion Agius
A n d so, a f t e r a l l t h at, Dion Agius and Nate Tyler f i n ish ed pack i ng th ei r bags. They were, of course, hungover and their Ch ateau M a r mont room wa s a t o ta l di s a s t e r w i t h the flotsam and jetsam of a rock n’ roll lifestyle str ew n a bou t.
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Too many pictures of him smoking had l e a k e d a n d i t wa s now h i s “ i m age .” H e wa s a “ t o o - c o o l - f o r - s c h o o l” “ W h a t Yo u t h e r ” o n s o m e f o r l o r n “ H ig h way t o H e l l .” I n r e a l i t y, h e wa s j us t C r e e d, a small fry from Western Austr alia, but the surf world had just discovered th at th is pa rticu l a r sm a ll f ry h a d more rail style, more fearlessness and more air steez than almost anyone else in the game.
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CJ Hobgood 38
And the entire Globe crew f ou n d t h e m s e lv e s f ly i ng t o R ecife before taking a quick hopper to th e isle pa r a dise called Fernando de Noronha. Joe G , v ery obv iously, f ou n d himself in first class sitting next to a large businessman dr e s se d i n a w h i t e sh i r t, w h i t e v e st, w h i t e su i t w i t h a w h i t e hat and white shoes, who wa s e at i ng a sh r i m p c o c k ta i l and drinking a caipirinha.
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Fem ale arms th at h ad come u n de r t h e s way of t h e m usic a n d t h e mo od bu t most ly u n der t h e s way of Nat e ’s g ol de n l o c k s . H i s h a i r wa s da z z l i ng , h a ngi ng d ow n in loose ringlets to his shoulders and made golden from the years spent surfing. The female arms could not get enough.
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Nate Tyler
T h e mon k eys w er e pa rticu l a r ly tau n t i ng . T h e y scr e a m ed, “ We wa n t you t o s h av e a m o h aw k N at e T. A n d t h e n w e wa n t you t o p ok e DJ St ru n t z w i t h a stick when he is sleeping. And then w e wa n t you t o st e a l h is c a m er a s a n d t h row t h em i n t h e wat er .”
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H e wa s no t s w e a r i ng be c ause of t h e di r t. T h e b oy h a d no t wa sh e d h i s h a no t s w e a r i ng be c ause i t r e a l ly wa s t every sensible man, woman and well
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e impossible tangles and impossible a i r i n f ou r a n d a h a l f y e a r s . H e wa s the earliest of morning, a time when l - b e h av e d c h i l d i s s l e e p i n g s o u n d ly.
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Dion Agius
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Ye t Da mo Hobg o od wa s no t sat isf i ed. H e wa s no t sat isf i ed w i t h ge t t i ng mor e ba r r eled th a n a n yone in history. He wa n t ed t h e r e st of t h e Gl obe cr e w t o s h a r e i n h i s n i rva n a a n d s o h e s hou t e d them into position and shouted them into wav e s a n d e ac h o f t h e m l i s t e n e d t o Da m o ’s sir en ca ll . Ev eryone, th at day, got mor e ba r r eled th a n a n yone in history.
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Dion, b ac k si de h i m s e l f, a n yon e a n d si m ply c ou l d wer e her e a nd th at thi t h at t h i s wa s t h i s — S h 70
rode as long as d not believe they s wa s h a ppe n i ng a n d angri-la. 71
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It wa sn’t a drop down, pull in, sit and stall sort of b a r r e l . It wa s th e fa stest. It wa s t h e I n di a n a p olis 500 and it r aced. The surfers wo u l d h av e t o d r o p down, pull in, and pump and work and str ain in order to keep up with the blue. It took everything.
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CJ Hobgood
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And then he l o ok e d u p. There she wa s , wa l k i ng in the rain t owa r d h i m . “I’ve been looking for you…” she said.
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They had been around the world so many times. They had woken up in houses and haciendas and ch ateaus. They had woken up hungover and smelling of grease and smelling of per f u m e . T h ei r pa ssports were full.
Creed McTaggart
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Nate Tyler
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They had all forgotten about the time, in Latvi a, when a gy psy’s m o n k e y s t o l e C r e e d ’ s T- s h i r t, D i o n ’ s sunglasses, Nate’s m a ndolin, DJ Strunz’s Luger pistol a nd then m a de a beautiful sculptur e on their ver anda. They had all forgotten about the time, in Hong Kong, when CJ and Damien wer e invited to play tennis against the gov er nor’s twin daughters for the k ey to the city.
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Noa Deane
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Creed McTaggart
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Brendon Gibbens
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They had gone on a wild adventure for the sake of a rt, or f or th e sa k e of a dventur e itself — no on e wa s qu i t e su r e w h ic h — bu t w h o wou l d h av e t h o u g h t t h at t h e wav e wo u l d h av e f o u n d t h e m after they woke up in a mud brick hut? Who would h av e t h o u g h t t h at a wav e wa s t h e be s t t h i ng of a l l? 97
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