Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry

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A T U F T S C O M M U N I C AT I O N S F I N E J E W E L R Y P U B L I C AT I O N

Fine Jewelry Magazine

Rolex Keeps Collectors Happy

Mikimoto’s Modern Classics

Everyday Chic

The Power of Color

Yurman’s World of Beauty

Recently Named One of America’s

Leading Independent Jewelers Autumn/Holiday 2014 • ISSUE 2


P OIS MOI COLLECTION

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Warmest personal greetings from all of us at Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry. Each year we look forward to the opportunity to share with you our vision and passion that is translated into our exquisite jewelry. Join with us as we celebrate our upcoming 30th year in Tyler, Texas! Year after year, we endeavor to stay ahead of the latest jewelry and watch industry trends and innovations, while staying true to our standards and objectives: to provide knowledgeable sales assistance and guidance in an enjoyable manner and to offer great value and unsurpassed quality with every purchase. We pride ourselves in our commitment to our customers and are dedicated to creating a memorable experience. Couture jewelry retailers make up only one half of one percent of all jewelers in the country. As a Couture jeweler, we are invited to work with an exceptionally talented group of internationally renowned designers and luxury brands. We strive to provide our customers with the world’s most unique styles and designs, made with the highest level of craftsmanship. The result is jewelry that is not only fashionable and chic, but also destined to become the classics and heirlooms of generations to come. Beyond our dedication to customer service, quality and integrity, our family is committed to serving and generously giving back to the community. We are proud to be charitable partners with many local and national non-profit agencies and service organizations, and want to take this time to thank you for helping make contributions possible. In closing, may this coming year be one of good health, joyous occasions and prosperity. Many of you have been loyal customers and friends for a long time. We are grateful for your continuing friendship and patronage. We look forward to seeing you again soon! With gratitude,

Susan Robinson, Larry and Kat Stokes and the entire Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry Staff

Larry Stokes, Vice President of Rolex USA Luca Bernasconi, Kat Stokes, and President of Rolex USA Stewart Wicht at the U.S. Grand Prix Formula 1 Race.

Larry & Kat Stokes, David Yurman and Susan Robinson.

Larry & Kat Stokes with Ippolita.

FINE JEWELRY 6009 SOUTH BROADWAY • TYLER, TEXAS 75703 • (903) 581 5530 • WWW.SUSANROBINSONJEWELRY.COM Regular business hours are 10am-5:30pm Monday to Friday. • Holiday business hours are 10am-6pm Monday to Saturday



© D.YURMAN 2014


WILD ROSE COLLECTION.

WELCOME TO FOPE’S WORLD Fope is an Italian goldsmithing company established in 1929, a tradition that has evolved to become one of the world’s most sought-after jewellery brands. Every day, every jewel is created in-house with love and passion by skilled craftsmen and with the help of innovative custommade machines. A winning combination of style and technical knowledge epitomised by the exclusive flexible woven 18 carat gold of the beautifully sinuous Flex’it collections.


EKA COLLECTION.

SOLO COLLECTION.


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C O V E R :

JUDE FRANCES

David Yurman’s p16 World of Beauty An American icon creating American classics

contents 3 Welcome 12 A Special Honor 14 How to Choose a Jeweler 16 David Yurman’s World of Beauty 18 Temple St. Clair: Style and Sophistication 22 Rolex Keeps Collectors Happy 27 Ippolita — Color & Craft 30 Capture the Moment, Capture Forever 34 The Symbolism of the Band 36 More Than Just the Ring 38 The Meaningful Beauty of John Hardy 42 Armenta — Dreamy Adornment 44 Breitling Navitimer 46 Jewelry for Men 50 Roberto Coin — Everyday Chic 52 Mikimoto’s Modern Classics 54 The Power of Color 58 Susan Robinson Gives Back Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director Carol Besler • Assistant Editorial Director Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer Kyle Boyer • Designer Ron Saltiel/RSP Media • Select Jewelry Photography

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Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry Magazine is published by Tufts Communications 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012 T: 765-608-3081 • E: todd@tuftscom.com • © 2014, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

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rolex

New colors, jeweling, and a ceramic breakthrough for

*Prices subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.

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Copyright 2014 JB Star. JB Star is a registered trademark of Jewels By Star

Designed and Handcrafted in New York

www.

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î ?e Sterling Collection F e at u r e d i n B l ac k

a n d Wh i t e S a p p h i r e s


special honor

SuSan RobinSon JewelRy

named ameRica’S leading independent JeweleR by town & countRy! Susan Robinson Jewelry Named a Town & Country leading Independent Jeweler Town & Country announced that Susan Robinson Jewelry has been named to The List: America's Leading Independent Jewelers in 2014. Susan Robinson Jewelry joins the prestigious group of Town & Country Leading Independent Jewelers, the best jewelry and watch retail stores in America, selected for their distinguished service and fine collections. The complete list will be featured in Town & Country's June/July issue, which hit newsstands May 20. "As the authority on fine jewelry and timepieces, Town & Country is dedicated to bringing readers the absolute best resources in this all-important category," said Jennifer Levene Bruno, publisher/chief revenue officer of Town & Country. "T&C's Leading Independent Jewelers are synonymous with the impeccable style and service that our audience demands. We are proud to welcome Susan Robinson Jewelry to the country's top tier of jewelry and watch retailers."

ABOUT TOWN & COUNTRY Town & Country (www.townandcountrymag.com) has chronicled American life since 1846, always putting an emphasis on people of style and accomplishment who give something back to the world, whether in service, philanthropy or creative endeavor. It is edited with a feeling for storytelling, combining the highest level of reporting with the very best photography. Town & Country is an acute observer of the broader social landscape, documenting notable weddings and parties, chronicling the pastimes and passions of leading figures and families everywhere, and casting and anthropological eye on the lives of the rich and powerful. The magazine is an irreplaceable guide to the very best that the world has to offer - a trusted source of privileged information, taste, and unpretentious fun. Town & Country Weddings, established in 2003, is published twice a year. Town & Country is published by Hearst Magazines, a unit of Hearst Corporation, one of the nation’s largest diversified media and information companies. With 20 titles in the U.S., Hearst is the leading publisher of monthly magazines in terms of total paid circulation (AAM 2H 2013) and reaches 82 million adults (Fall 2013 MRI gfk). Follow Town & Country on Twitter at @TandCMag.

ABOUT SUSAN ROBINSON JEWELRY Gorgeous gems & jewels abound at Susan Robinson Jewelry, East Texas’ family owned premier fine jewelry and bridal resource. For over thirty years, Susan Robinson Jewelry has offered exceptional selections of elite jewelry brands and exclusive jewelry collections from all over the world. Susan Robinson’s design capabilities, variety of natural diamonds of superb cut and color, and imaginative settings of intricate detail stand well apart from the ordinary. Handcrafted by master jewelers, Susan Robinson Jewelry features Capture, its exclusive signature collection, portraying a pledge of uncompromising quality and perfection in every detail. Rolex, David Yurman, Charles Krypell, Roberto Coin, John Hardy, Mikimoto Pearls, Tacori, J.B. Star, Ippolita, Jude Frances, Lika Behar and Temple St. Clair are just a few of the spectacular designers featured at Susan Robinson Jewelry. Susan Robinson, Tyler’s Official Rolex Jeweler, has built their reputations on a strong tradition of impeccable quality, unmatched friendly service, lasting value and dedication to the integrity of the jewelry industry. 1468650.INDD 1

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FINE JEWELRY 6009 S. Broadway • Tyler • 903·581·5530 www.susanrobinsonjewelry.com 6/18/2014 12:08:19 PM

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FINE JEWELRY 6009 S. Broadway • Tyler • 903·581·5530 www.susanrobinsonjewelry.com



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18k white gold fancy opera diamond necklaces.

How to choose a jeweler

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There is more to buying jewelry than clicking on a picture.

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You have probably heard the adage: “If you don’t know jewelry, know

to become the jeweler of choice for clientele throughout the United

your jeweler.” The truth is, it’s a good idea, even if you do know jewelry.

States and in various parts of the world.

A reputable, knowledgeable jeweler makes the jewelry shopping process

Selection is an important criteria that defines a great jewelry store.

easier, more enjoyable, and more successful. When you buy a piece of

Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry has worked hard to curate a selection that

jewelry, you are investing in a work of art, a keepsake that you will be

represents world-renowned brands, as well as unique, one-of-a-kind

able to treasure forever as a memory of a milestone in your life — or

items, and some of the rarest diamonds and gemstones from around

even just a celebration of life itself — and you want to make the right

the globe. Aside from top brands that include Roberto Coin, David

decision. There are many factors to consider beyond simply choosing a

Yurman, Charles Krypell, Jye, Jude Frances, John Hardy, Lika Behar

style that appeals to you. Once you have made your purchase, you want

and Armenta, Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry represents many leading

to be confident that it can be professionally serviced, repaired, or cleaned.

bridal jewelry designers, including JB Star, Tacori, Christopher Designs,

Above all, you want transparency and honesty in your transaction —

and Henri Daussi. There are also in-house experts and master jewelers

someone who will advise and guide you.

who can design and handcraft the custom ring or jewelry of your dreams.

Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry has become the jeweler to get-to-know

Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry is also an authorized dealer for many of

in East Texas. “We like to form relationships with our clientele,” says

the worlds most prestigious and respected Swiss watch brands, including

Susan. Their experience adds up to many years of expertise, hands-on

Rolex, David Yurman, Breitling and Victorinox Swiss Army.

jewelry making skills and extensive knowledge of gemology and design.

Service is another important criteria in choosing a jeweler. Susan

Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry has received national, as well as

Robinson Fine Jewelry provides custom design and various repair services,

international recognition in the jewelry and watch industries for their

including sizing, cleaning, remounting, re-polishing, as well as authorized

sterling reputation, exceptional service, integrity and philanthropy.

watch repair and maintenance. Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry has met

Through the years, Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry has also been privileged

all of the designers and manufacturers they represent, in many cases

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18k white and rose gold diamond anaconda bracelets.

visiting their premises abroad, so they are well-versed in the latest developments and technological advancements in the fine watch and jewelry industries. Their advice carries a great deal of substance. Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry goes to great lengths to create a comfortable, warm and inviting atmosphere. “We do not believe in putting pressure on someone especially when a significant purchase is being considered.” says Larry Stokes. “We maintain a non-pressure selling environment where customers can take their time and make their own decisions without a salesperson hounding them. A customer’s confidence in their purchase results in a higher level of customer satisfaction.” Finally, it is important to choose a jeweler with roots in the community, someone that extends its family values to neighbors, friends and complete strangers. Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry’s foundation in the East Texas community is solid, as we are celebrating 30 years of business in 2015. A good jeweler makes every effort to make your purchase enjoyable and memorable. If you are searching for an engagement ring or jewelry that is designed just for you, Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry will guide you from vision to fruition. We look forward to meeting and helping you “know your jeweler” even better!


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DAVID YURMAN’S

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World of Beauty

David Yurman’s background as a sculptor and his appreciation for the enduring motifs in everyday life are evident in his collections for this fall.

An avid equestrian, Yurman has long been inspired by the classic devices

of the equestrian world – stirrups, bits, halters and other equipment used in

tack. The Cable Buckle collection is an evolution of the designer’s original Thoroughbred collection. The buckle, which takes its cue from that found on a horse’s bit, is paired with a curb link chain in some pieces, and with the

designer’s iconic cable motif in others. The designs are rendered in sterling silver with 14k yellow gold highlights. Some are set with diamonds.

The new pieces from this season’s Confetti collection are a reinterpretation of David Yurman’s original design. The stacked rows of metal set with

cushion-shaped gemstones capture the effect of light and color dancing on a grid. In fact, the original working title of the collection was “spots and dots,” a

Confetti Wide ring with blue topaz and Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.

reference to reflected points of light. The new pieces are a refinement of this concept, evoking a relaxed geometry with an organic, delicate balance. Colored gemstones and diamonds are set in a petite mosaic, adorning cabled metal in a playful dance. Since its founding in New York in 1980, David Yurman has become known as America’s leading fine jewelry and timepiece brand. It features a range of signature gold and silver designs, as well as diamond, pearl, and gemstone jewelry.

Confetti Narrow bracelet with white diamonds in sterling silver. Cable Buckle bracelet with white diamonds in sterling silver.

Confetti Wide bracelet with blue topaz and Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.

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The designer’s fall collections are inspired by motifs ranging from the equestrian world to confetti


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18k yellow gold crystal ball drop earrings.

Angel pendant in 18k gold with diamonds.

style&symbolism:

temple st. clair

Translucent gems, fine gold work and plenty of meaning define the work of Temple St. Clair.

Temple St. Clair was founded in 1986 in Florence, Italy,

by designer Temple St. Clair Carr. Her first collection debuted

at Barneys New York. Her signature rock crystal amulets and

collectible bangles and cocktail rings possess a modern classic

style, with distinctive gold work and unusual gemstones.

18k yellow gold crystal moonface pendant on 18 inch chain.

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Anima Earth Rock crystal pendant in 18k yellow gold with white diamond details on 32 inch chain.

The philosophy of the company is to offer the highest quality jewelry and to help collectors both understand and appreciate the exquisite colored gemstones and gold craftsmanship, for which Temple St. Clair is known. Her unique pieces are regularly featured in top fashion and lifestyle magazines worldwide. “Each object that I create carries the soul of the history of the artisans of Florence.” says Temple.

Temple St. Clair

is also noted for her

unique pendants, which possess a symbolism that makes them highly personal. The Anima Earth Rock crystal amulet in 18k gold with diamonds is a motif that represents the interconnection of all life on our planet. It symbolizes all forms of creation and fertility. The 18k gold Angel pendant is another signature Temple St. Clair piece, surrounded by diamonds. Each has an ethereal quality that gives the jewelry meaning beyond the purpose of adornment.

Medieval large cuff in 18k yellow gold.

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keeps collectors happy

New colors, jeweling and a ceramic breakthrough for Rolex

Every year, amidst a sea of online predictions and wish-list postings, watch aficionados and fans of Rolex eagerly await the brand’s new introductions. The new models introduced this year did not disappoint. The Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, with red and blue Cerachrom bezel

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The most talked about novelty was the long awaited Oyster Perpetual GMT Master with a distinctive red and blue bezel (which Rolex lovers call the “Pepsi” because of its coloring). The GMT Master II captures the color code of the original 1955 version of this iconic model, but with a Cerachrom bezel for the first time. It is a particular color combination that is extremely difficult to do in ceramic, not just in terms of achieving a seamless break between red and blue halves — a major accomplishment in itself — but because this particular shade of red is a challenge, and long considered impossible to create in ceramic. (The bezel of the 1955 version was Plexiglass). The new GMT Master II also has a revamped movement, the self-winding Caliber 3186, with a blue Parachrom hairspring made of niobium and zirconium, which is tentimes more precise than a conventional hairspring and highly shock resistant. The 40mm case is white gold, and the model is not limited. Rolex also introduced an updated version of the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller this year. The model was first launched in 1967 as the Sea-Dweller 2000 (water resistant to 2,000 feet), and the new one is the Sea-Dweller 4000 (water resistant to 4,000 feet). The only other revision of this iconic model was in 1978, also rated at 4,000 feet. New is the black Cerachrom bezel with PVD platinum markers, gold Chromalight hands and markers, blue Parachrom hairspring (in Caliber 3135) and a bracelet with Glidelock extension system and Oysterlock safety clasp. The new version, which is steel, retains the look of the ’70s version, including the famous helium escape valve. Another innovation is a collection of three new versions of the Sky-Dweller: 18k Everose Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller.

gold case and bracelet (with a beautiful “Sundust” dial); 18k white gold on a strap; and 18k yellow gold on a strap. The Sky-Dweller, with 14 patents, was first launched to acclaim in 2012 and includes a bezel-driven function setting. With Caliber 9001, it has a dual time zone and annual calendar, with months uniquely displayed through apertures on the periphery of the dial.

The three new versions of the Rolex Sky-Dweller.


A new series of Oyster Perpetual models in 31mm and 36mm sizes previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors, including Azzurro Blue, Red Grape, White Grape (a gold tone), Steel and White Lacquer with blue Roman numerals. The watches contain the Caliber 3130 self-winding movement, with Parachrom hairspring. Two of the watches are set with diamonds in combination with either blue or pink sapphires in two different shades — with the gems adjacent to the hour markers contrasted in a slightly darker hue. The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss is another favorite of collectors. An antimagnetic timepiece designed for engineers and scientists in the 1950s, it was reintroduced in 2007 with a unique green sapphire crystal, a first in watchmaking. This year’s version features an electric blue dial which, under the green crystal, takes on a powerful magnetic hue. This is perhaps the most unique color combination of any other Rolex watch, and is sought after by both men and women, and by both aficionados and newcomers to the brand alike.

The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster with diamonds.

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Female collectors are thrilled to see the new Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34 collection this year, a series of three 34mm models that are gem-set, each with options that include diamonds on the bracelets as well as the cases.

The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss features a new electric blue dial.


A new series of Oyster Perpetual models previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors.

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Color Craft

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Gelato four-stone post earrings in 18k gold.

and

By creating a line with endless possible combinations, Ippolita enables women to express themselves through her designs

achieve a variety of looks,

Italian-American jewelry designer Ippolita is known for

Ippolita (pronounced Ip-POL-

her sculptural aesthetic and bold use of color. But what

ita, with the accent on the second

many of her fans appreciate most of all is her sense of

syllable) grew up in a farmhouse in the

wearability. “I started designing jewelry in 1993 and at the

Tuscan hills outside Florence, Italy, with

time, I noticed there was not a lot of fabulous jewelry for

her American mother and Florentine father. She

a contemporary aesthetic,” she says. “Jewelry was either

studied sculpture and ceramics for five years at the

high-end or costume, and there seemed to be a void in the

prestigious Istituto d’Arte Florence, beginning her lifelong

marketplace for ‘fashion fine jewelry,’ something that was

love affair with art and craft. After relocating to the United States

wearable, versatile, collectible and precious,” she says.

and earning a degree in English literature at Occidental College in

Her resulting collection feels like fine jewelry and is

Los Angeles, Ippolita relocated to New York City. In 1993, she

crafted to the standards of high jewelry,

combined her love of craft and her interest in fashion by creating

but is highly wearable and

a jewelry collection. “Because I grew up in Italy, where everything

affordable. The pieces are

is crafted and where there is sort of a reverence for making things

meant to be stacked,

well and beautifully, I feel I have to continue in that tradition,”

layered and worn

she says. “I can’t help it.” Of her jewelry, she says, “you will see

in multiples to

something that more formal fine jewelry does not do.

the hand of the craftsman on each piece.” Color is a big part of her aesthetic, something that she feels has the power to elevate the spirit. Her designs start with a simple silhouette, and then come alive when set with one or several colored gemstones. “When you’re working with color, you’re always looking for the Wow factor,” she says. Her eye for color extends to her own proprietary gold color. Ippolita mixes her own gold alloy to create just the right hue, which is consistent throughout the collection. “It adds a layer of complication to the

Gelato baguette earrings in 18k gold, with black shell and London blue topaz with diamonds. S U S A N

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manufacturing process,” she says. “You can’t buy wire, sheet metal or any other forms in the particular rose color I want. I have to make everything by hand. I love simplicity, but simplicity is often not simple. It can be difficult from a technical standpoint,” she says. The designer remains inspired by her roots. The Gelato collection, for example, incorporates layers of details reminiscent of historic Italian design, in colors that are reminiscent of the flavors of gelato, the delicious Italian ice cream. She mixes precious with semi-precious gems, in-

Gelato Snowman earrings in 18k gold, with amethyst, black shell and cognac citrine, rutilated quartz

cluding rutilated quartz, diamonds, iolite, milky aquamarine, moonstone and mother-of-pearl. Continuing the concept of layering, the Stella collection is set with glowing ‘doublets’ of gems that are set together to create a shimmering translucence that seems to glow from within. In some pieces, raw crystal stones are given a special cut and placed over turquoise slices. In others, blue topaz is set over a slice of mother-of-pearl. “What happens when you set them together is that the reflection of the cut shines

Sterling silver seven-stone hinge bangle from the Wonderland collection.

onto the underlying layer in a really amazing way,” says Ippolita. “It looks like it shines with inner light, like a star.”

Ippolita’s Essential Six Every jewelry wardrobe starts with a few essential building blocks. Here are Ippolita’s six steps toward an amazing jewelry collection. Stack of bangles: Choose an odd number for asymmetry, and have some fun mixing textures and colors. Long Necklaces: Layer multiple links and experiment with scale and metals. Statement rings: They can take you from day to night in an instant. Don’t forget to embellish pointer and middle fingers. Everyday Earrings: From studs to snowmen and hoops, don’t wait for a special occasion to wear earrings. Party Earrings: Daring drops, cascading chandeliers … go for sparkle and shine, pull your hair back and show them off! Anything Color: Don’t be too matchy matchy; a little bit of discord looks fresh.

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It’s forever...and ever

Serafino Consoli exclusive for Susan Robinson

Multi-size Rings & Rings that become Bracelets

Love between mother and daughter is really forever. Our jewels are forever too. Thanks to an exclusive patented system, they can be adapted to the fingers of a child or a mother. A jewel that can accompany you throughout life and is for all situations. Changing always without ever changing.

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wedding planner

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Finding the Perfect Engagement Ring So, you’ve decided to propose to your girlfriend — congratulations. Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry is here to help you make this journey as smooth and easy as possible. Chances are, before you decided this, all engagement rings looked pretty much the same: But if you’ve already looked around a little, you have probably noticed that there are actually lots of options from which to choose. She will be wearing this ring for the rest of her life. It will need to go with everything from jeans to evening wear. What kind of jewelry does she already wear? Is she more classic or modern?

Three stone diamond ring with 1.74 carat Marquise cut center diamond and over 2.50 carats total weight set in 18k white gold.

Does she wear more silver or gold? Have these preferences in mind when you set out. If you buy something similar to what she already likes, you can’t go wrong.

It’s not just a cliché: Many girls really do sit around at brunch talking about their fantasy engagement ring. Before you embark on this ring adventure, ask your girlfriend’s tightlipped friends for any ideas about cut and style.

You’ll also want to begin the process knowing your girlfriend’s ring size. If you can borrow a ring to bring in so that we can see the size, that would be great. However, it may be difficult to do that without her noticing, so you can trace the inside of the ring and bring that instead. Or, slip one on your finger and use a pen to mark where it stops. If

Three stone diamond ring with 2.00 carat Oval cut center diamond, two half moons cut diamonds on side and beautiful halo of diamonds around each set in 18k white gold.

she’s an in-between size, it is better to err on the high side. It is often easier to size the ring down and neither of you want to deal with a midproposal knuckle jam.

Platinum diamond ring set with three row diamond band.

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wedding planner

the four Cs

I

Clarity:

This refers to the stone’s “inclusions” or

After

selecting

the

imperfections, which include minuscule mineral deposits and fractures

diamond, you’ll have the ring

in the rock. Many clarity imperfections are too small to see without a

itself to think about. For setting,

magnifying glass, so you may not want to put too much stock in this

the main words to learn are prong,

number. The scale ranges between FL, for flawless, to I3, for the most

bezel, channel, halo, and pave. As for

inclusions. SI1 and SI2 have slight inclusions, but will sparkle.

the metal, there is yellow gold, white

Color:

gold, rose gold, and platinum. White It’s not about whether it’s a pink or black

diamond, but rather the color of a white diamond, from completely colorless to yellow. The clearest diamonds are graded D,E, or F. The next tier is G, H, I, and J, and it goes all the way down to Z. Like with clarity, you have breathing room on this.

Cut:

5.01 carat fancy yellow pear cut diamond ring with over 10 carats of diamonds total in ring.

gold is the most popular, but yellow gold is considered classic. Platinum is the most precious and pure metal. Also, keep in mind the shortcuts regarding the information above. Take the carat weight for example. Price drops significantly when the carat weight goes below a whole number. A 0.90 carat diamond is going to be a lot less expensive than a 1.00 carat diamond. Princess, oval, and cushion cuts are all less expensive than round brilliants.

This is where personal taste and sparkle come in. The

Chances are you know your girlfriend’s taste, but no one you spoke to

cut grade has to do with how well a diamond reflects the light and the

has heard her say, “I’d really like a cushion cut, with a split-shank setting

grading ranges from excellent to poor.

and side accents on a yellow gold band, size seven, nothing lower than an H color, or SI2 range for clarity, at least two carats.” That would be way

Carat:

too easy! We at Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry are here to help you. This is the weight of the stone, of course. The

carat weight can influence your overall budget.

Platinum diamond ring containing a 1.50 carat center diamond and a bloom of diamonds surrounding.

J.B. Star platinum diamond ring with 2.54 carat Cushion cut center diamond that is GIA certified and over 5 carats total weight in the ring. Tacori Classic Crescent diamond eternity ring set in 18k white gold.

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Fine Jewelry

Exclusive Designs by Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry


wedding planner

W the

symbolism of the band

A Symbol of Eternity

The pressure and anticipation of the engagement is over, she said yes! You each get to pick a wedding band to symbolize your commitment to each other. Our goal is to help you create a timeless symbol that is worthy of true love.

18k yellow gold and Damascus steel mixed metal band.

For the groom, there are the traditional white and yellow gold high polished comfort fit bands that are classic and wearable. However, there are many new designs that have become very popular. There are mixed metal bands finished out with a Mokume wave finish. You can even get creative with a Quoin edge and a hammered finish that will wear well over time. David Yurman has a new collection featuring forged carbon bands made with the same material that Lamborghini is using on their exotic car collection. As for the bride, you want to find something that will complement her beautiful engagement ring. The diamond eternity band is in high demand. It’s like wearing a ribbon of diamonds so as it moves on her finger, all you ever see is diamonds, not metal. Pairing rose gold bands with a platinum setting can add a creative twist. Or having a custom band made to match her engagement ring setting is a timeless option as well. Have fun and enjoy the process!

Women’s diamond milgrain wedding band containing 1.33 carats of diamonds set in white gold.

18k yellow gold bark finish band with quoin edges alongside palladium brushed double dome band.

Men’s 18k yellow gold eternity diamond band, Tacori men’s carved band in 18k white gold and hammered mixed metal band with 18k white and rose gold. 18k rose gold shared prong set diamond band with 0.65 carats. Women’s set of two blue diamond bands with 0.15 carats per band.

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more than just the ring

Bridal jewelry doesn’t end with the engagement ring or wedding ring. There’s a wedding gown that needs the right accessories, and what better choice than something the bride can wear again? Wedding dress styles range from ornate to simple, but Amanda

18k white gold floral riviera diamond necklace.

Gizzi, director of the Jewelry Information Center, says texture is a top trend. Lace or bejeweled embellishments on the bodice of the dress make earrings a wonderful way to pull the look together. We suggest diamond or pearl as classic choices, and of course blue gemstones such as sapphire, aquamarine or blue topaz continue to be a favorite for brides to incorporate her “something blue.”

Wedding day jewelry is a beautiful gift idea for the groom to give his bride, or, as Kate Middleton’s parents did for her, the bride’s parents to give their daughter. Long after the dress is boxed up and put away and the video is on the shelf, the jewelry is something she can wear over and over and always remember that special day.

18k white gold pear shaped diamond drop earrings.

18k white gold diamond bangles. 18k white gold dangle drop earrings.

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the meaningful beauty of

John Hardy

John Hardy began his jewelry brand as a statement about the importance of heritage and the preservation of the environment. Today, that message is stronger than ever — and the jewelry is just as beautiful John Hardy, a former art student and environmentalist from Canada, visited Bali for the first time in the 1970s, and was instantly captivated and inspired by the natural beauty of Indonesia. He also fell in love with the jewelry tradition in this exotic land when he encountered local artisans producing handcrafted pieces using the jewelry-making techniques honed by their ancestors. Hardy began to study ancient jewelry artisanship and to work with local goldsmiths. By infusing their ancient techniques with modern ingenuity, he created his eponymous jewelry brand in 1975.

Gold and silver medium hoop earrings from the Naga collection.

Square stud earrings with London blue topaz and diamond from the Classic Chain collection.

Slim Flex cuff with black enamel from the Naga collection.

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designer spotlight

Gold and silver dome ring from the Naga collection.

John Hardy Jewelry is hand made according to ancient jewelry making techniques that would otherwise be lost.

Gold and silver Slim Flex cuff from the Naga collection.

Slim Flex cuff with white enamel from the Naga collection.

In Bali, there is a myth of a dragon with a fierce and protective love for the pearl. The dragon leaves his home in

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burning with richly colored rubies.

the Balinese volcanos each evening and visits his pearl at the

John Hardy jewelry is hand-made according to ancient

bottom of the sea. When he returns o his lair, his scales shed

jewelry making techniques that would otherwise be lost.

water into the fields, bringing the island love, prosperity and

Combined with modern know-how, the result is a collection

protection. This dragon, the Naga, is sacred to the Balinese and

that is beautifully crafted with a timeless appeal. The

a symbol of our connection to the natural world. The legend is

collaboration between designers and artisans makes John

very much a part of Bali, so the Naga is naturally very much a

Hardy jewelry truly distinctive. This is true, hand-crafted

part of John Hardy jewelry. The fall 2014 collection returned

luxury : one of a kind, one piece at a time, each by hand.

to the legend’s power, giving the collection a new energy and

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movement; his scales glimmering with black sapphire and eyes

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Dreamy adornment

Emily Armenta’s magical, mystical jewels Armenta Jewelry, designed and hand-crafted in Texas, is one of the premier jewelry collections in the industry and one of our personal favorites. A quick glance, and you can see how her style is unique and the craftsmanship is a cut above the rest. She uses 18k yellow gold and darkened sterling silver to create the perfect surroundings for the vibrant stones in hues of blues, green, and moonstone, just to name a few. She comes from a family of artists, so creativity is second nature to her as she has been selling and designing jewelry since she was seven years old. Emily claims that “By being surrounded by artists, I have always had a lot of support to express myself through my art work.” Emily’s hobby became a career path while getting her MBA at Rice University in Houston, Texas. While taking an entrepreneurship class, she was given an assignment to create a fictitious company and write a business plan. She chose

Elongated filigree earrings with moonstone, black and white diamonds in 18k yellow gold and “midnight” oxidized sterling silver, from the Old World collection.

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Stack ring with rainbow moonstone and diamonds in 18k yellow gold and “midnight” oxidized sterling silver, from the Old World Collection.

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An 18-inch 3 strand layer chain with lapis/clear quartz doublet enhancer with white diamonds and white sapphires in 18k yellow gold and “midnight” oxidized sterling silver, from the Old World Collection.

A large elongated ring with lapis/clear quartz doublet, white diamonds and white sapphires in 18k yellow gold and “midnight” oxidized sterling silver, from the Old World Collection.

“...we know — not from our thoughts, but from the ‘duende that climbs inside…. from the soles of the feet’— that what we are creating is magical.”

to focus her project on her passion, designing jewelry. She was very fortunate to have the support of the school and an amazing mentor who not only believed in her, but also gave her a chance to fulfill her dream. Her inspiration comes from an idea that Federico García Lorca proffered in one of his writings. “I’ve been captivated by Lorca’s idea of ‘duende’.” exclaims Armenta. “Thus ‘duende’ is a power and not a behavior; it is the struggle that one must endure to create something of greatness.” This is evident in each piece with the dark sterling silver setting and the rich, vibrant gold that surrounds beautiful diamonds and gemstones. “Each piece of jewelry that is made within our studio tells a story. And after hours and hours of work on each piece, finally, there are those moments when we know — not from our thoughts, but from the ‘duende that climbs inside...from the soles of the feet’— that what we are creating is magical.”

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Breitling Navitimer A celebration of one of the great 20th century watchmaking classics

Pilots have been relying on Breitling’s navigational intruments for the wrist since 1915, when the brand introduced its first chronograph wristwatch. The Swiss watchmaker patented its signature circular slide rule on a wristwatch in 1941. This clever instrument made it possible to convert speeds or distances from one unit of measurement to another. These watches were the forerunners of the legendary Breitling Navitimer, the brand’s flagship aviator’s watch. The first Breitling Navitimer was introduced in 1952, and was purpose-built for pilots. It was equipped with a circular slide rule and a chronograph function, and capable of handling all calculations relating to airborne navigation, including division, multiplication, the calculation of averages and fuel consumption. The Navitimer has been in continuous production now for over 60 years, and is considered one of the most iconic watches in the world, always included in the top-ten lists of all-time classics. This year, Breitling introduces three new models. First, a reinterpretation of the classic model in a larger diameter, another with a dual time function and a limited edition with a spectacular bronze dial. All are equipped with high-performance chronometer-certified manufacture Breitling mechanical movements. The Navitimer 46mm is an extra large version that not only enhances readability but emphasizes the iconic black dial, made using the brand’s proprietary “épargne” technique, which gives it a radiant finish. The 46mm model is also available with a blue dial. In 2009, Breitling introduced its own manufacture movement, developed and produced entirely in-house. This self-winding chronograph movement, the Caliber 01, is now used in the Navitimer collection. It is an official chronometer, which means it has been rated to the highest accuracy and reliability standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. The movement can be seen through the transparent caseback. In addition to the steel version there is a 200-piece limited edition red gold version of the 46mm. The second new Navitimer is a GMT, in an imposing 48mm case, that displays a second time zone in 24-hour mode. Home or reference time is indicated by a red arrow on the 24-hour scale on the inner bezel, while local time is displayed on the main dial. The movement is the Breitling Caliber B04, a chronometer rated automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. The watch also has a 1/4th of a second chronograph function, with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. In addition to the steel version, there is also a 200-piece limited edition GMT in red gold. Both feature Breitling’s signature circular slide rule. The Navitimer also makes an appearance this year with a unique bronze dial. This 1,000-piece limited edition series is called the Navitimer Panamerican, and contains the Breitling Caliber 01. Like the red gold editions of the 46mm and the GMT, it is sure to become a collector’s piece.

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The steel version of the Brietling Navitimer 46mm comes with a matching steel bracelet, a leather strap or a crocodile strap. Dial options include black or blue.

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WELCOME TO OUR WORLD

At the heart of the most extreme missions are the exceptional pilots who experience daring feats on a daily basis and are prepared to entrust their security only to the most high-performing instruments. At the heart of the most extreme missions is the Breitling Avenger. A concentrated blend of power, precision and functionality, Avenger models boast an ultra-sturdy construction and water resistance ranging from 1,000 to 10,000 feet. These authentic instruments for professionals are equipped with selfwinding movements chronometer-certified by the COSC – the highest official benchmark in terms of reliability and precision. Welcome to the sphere of extremes. Welcome to the Breitling world.

SUPER AVENGER II


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JEWELRY FOR MEN IS BACK IN VOGUE

V I C T O R I A

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David Yurman sterling silver frontier turquoise ring.

“We’ve noticed that men want special things as much as women do.” There is nothing inherently new about men donning jewels to stand out in a crowd. From the gold chains that adorned ancient

Sumerian rulers in Mesopotamia to the elaborate diamond necklaces beloved by India’s maharajas, jewelry was a man’s game from the very beginning. The more powerful the man, the more sumptuous his ensemble. “Where it probably splits, like everything else, is the French Revolution,” said Beatrice Behlen, senior curator of fashion and decorative arts at the Museum of London. After the rise of the bourgeoisie at the end of the 18th century, Ms. Behlen said, came “The Great Masculine Renunciation,” a phenomenon that saw men eschew bright colors and ornamental styles in favor of darker, more utilitarian clothing that underscored their commitment to work over beauty. “Women are the fragile dolls, and men wear the clothes you can wear to walk around in the city,” Ms. Behlen said. “That doesn’t change again until the Second World War. The next time men are legitimately allowed to wear jewelry, apart from tie pins, is the hippie period.”

David Yurman sterling silver and black onyx frontier bracelets and black diamond ID bracelet.

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accessories for him

Black onyx and sterling silver bead bracelets designed by William Henry Studio with handforged mokume gane bead.

David Yurman sterling silver malachite inlay cufflinks.

For a more contemporary style icon, she referred to Prince Harry of Britain, whose taste for wearing stacks of beaded and leather bracelets on his wrist is well documented. The wrist is a focal point, with the trend reaching across age and income brackets. “A gentleman in a meeting with a pinstriped suit — it’s not unusual to see beads and silver poking out beneath his cuff,” At William Henry, the founder and chief designer, Matt Conable, introduced in July his first jewelry collection, a tribute to HBO’s “Game of Thrones.” He rendered the series’ mythical universe in offbeat materials, such as fossilized mammoth ivory and Damascus steel. These new pieces are featured at Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry along with extensive collections of mens jewelry by John Hardy and American designer, David Yurman as well as our custom designs.

Bronze knife pendant with smoky quartz details designed by William Henry Studio.

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MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE I WWW.SWISSARMY.COM


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Everyday

Chic

Two link rings from the Pois Moi collection in 18k yellow gold and white diamond pave detail.

Pois Moi is Roberto Coin’s new down-to-earth signature collection for elegant everyday wear

Link bracelet with single diamond station from the Pois Moi collection, in 18k yellow gold.

Italian jewelry maestro Roberto Coin is well known for his whimsical, creative pieces, many of which have graced the red carpet and the covers of high fashion magazines. His genius has produced everything from bracelets in the form of fire breathing dragons to a diamond-studded ring sculpted to resemble the head of a roaring tiger whose tongue is set with pink sapphires. Although these quirky showstoppers often steal the spotlight, Roberto Coin has also demonstrated a deep understanding of the need for welldesigned, well-crafted everyday gold jewelry — not every occasion calls for a roaring diamond tiger. Coin’s day wear tends toward the classic — it is wearable, modern, yet occasionally with traditional or vintage design codes, and always made according to the same principles of craftsmanship as the finest piece of high jewelry. His latest signature collection is the Pois Moi, which is distinctive both for its shape and finish. The shape of most of the earrings,

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rings, bangles, pendants and cuff links in the collection was inspired by the rounded-off square television monitors of the 1950s. Coin’s modern take on this retro shape is both refined and avant-garde, and the collection has become an instant classic. The collection’s other signature design code is its pattern of slight indentations or perforations in the gold. This grid of round indentations adds texture and creates subtle light return, an interesting take on the surface finish of gold. “Even if the design appears extremely linear and simple, the manufacturing technique is very complicated and requires the highest precision,” says the designer. “After the huge success of the Appassionata collection, I was looking for something with an innovative design that could become a signature style in the same way,” says Coin. “The design is ultra-modern, with a touch of vintage, so it perfectly fits a woman of any age.

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Link necklace with single diamond station from the Pois Moi collection, in 18k yellow gold.

“The pattern comes from mixing different ideas,” he says, “including the texturing of the gold and the ‘pois’ (polka dot) trend seen at the Spring fashion shows. This style has never been introduced in the jewelry world. Gold is the primary element, but many pieces are set with diamonds and other gemstones. Many feature pavé diamond details. Each piece includes a hidden ruby, a signature of the designer, meant to bring good luck to the wearer. Roberto Coin feels the Pois Moi collection is unlike anything he has ever created. In fact, when asked what makes Pois Moi typically Roberto Coin, or how it compares to other pieces in his line, he replies, “It does not compare at all. Pois Moi has a design that I never thought I would create. If five or six years ago you had asked me about a design like Pois Moi, I would unfortunately have answered you that I was not interested at all. The first reason I

finally designed the collection is because of the current real market situation. I knew I had to create something that is new, young, innovative and super chic, something powerfully elegant as I like to define the Pois Moi collection.” As usual, his instincts were right on target. “The reason why it is already an icon is the huge success the collection has had with the public, which is the final arbiter, and because of the extreme elegance that only simplicity can make eternal,” he says. Despite this renewed commitment to the everyday, accessible Pois Moi collection, Coin has not abandoned his love for the glittering showpieces that are his trademark. To the question, ‘what single item of jewelry should every woman should own?’ he replies: “A big and colored cocktail ring, the larger the better.”

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Mikimoto’s Modern Classics

The world’s original pearl company celebrates its heritage A century ago, Mikimoto established its first black cultured pearl farm on Okinawa Island. Since then, the brand remains the authority in the highest quality black South Sea cultured pearl. Innovation is always at the heart of Mikimoto, as rare stones and precious metals

Black South Sea cultured pearl, mint tourmaline and diamond earrings in 18k white gold.

– and, of course, pearls – combine to create contemporary classics. Mikimoto’s earrings, rings, bracelets and necklaces incorporate Akoya, as well as natural black, white, golden, multi-color or baroque South Sea cultured pearls, offering a varied palette. Classic to contemporary, each piece is a flawless example of the company’s design aesthetic. Eighteen-karat white, yellow and rose gold or platinum are used exclusively for clasps and other adornments, while the finest silk thread strings the strands. This year, in celebration of the discovery of the Black South Sea

The Mikimoto limited-edition strand of multi-colored South Sea cultured pearls celebrates the discovery of the black South Sea pearl.

pearl, Mikimoto has created a limited-edition set that features a multi-colored black South Sea cultured pearl necklace with detachable bracelet, embellished with a special Mikimoto anniversary clasp. The 1914 gradient pearl set showcases the different variations and tones of black pearls – peacock, pistachio, aubergine, slate, grey, silver and midnight black with overtones of green, rose and blue.

Black South Sea cultured pearl and diamond Twist earrings in 18k white gold.

Multi-colored black South Sea cultured pearl strand with pavé diamond rondelles in 18k yellow and 18k white gold.

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M I K I M OTOA M ER I C A .CO M


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The Power of

Color

The colors we choose to surround us play a major role in how we feel.

Probably the most important way we reflect our individuality is by the clothes and jewelry we wear, and color is essential to this process. “Jewelry and color go hand-in-hand,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, the world’s foremost authority on color. “Color is intrinsically why people buy jewelry and their choices are largely emotional. People choose a color because they respond to it.” While the biggest trend in jewelry is color, it involves not just the traditional gems of ruby, emerald and sapphire. Today, color comes from a wide variety of gemstones, including the large families of tourmaline, spinel, jade, garnet, and topaz, as well as tanzanite, iolite, opal, peridot, and morganite. There are also the more affordable ”semi-precious” gems of the versatile quartz family, such as amethyst, citrine, prasiolite and rock crystal. While the classic look of white diamonds Charles Krypell’s amethyst, garnet may be “forever,” colorful gemstone jewelry and pink sapphire bouquet ring set in offers a different approach to style. These 18k yellow gold. vibrant accessories can dress up or down a particular outfit, depending on the mood of the wearer. They are fun and fanciful. For fall 2014, Eiseman says we are seeing a season of fresh colors in fashion, colors that are “more reflective of imagination and ingenuity.” She adds that these colors and combinations are not bound by the usual hues for fall. “There is a feminine mystique that is reflected throughout the palette, inspired by the increasing need for women everywhere to create an individual imprint.”

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18k yellow gold dangle earrings with mixed tourmalines.

18k yellow gold bracelet that evokes both Pantone’s Aurora Red, yellow, green and purple in this spectacular design made of mixed tourmalines.

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Photo: J. Stephen Hicks


color trends 18k white and yellow gold ring set with beautiful and unique cabochon emerald center and highlighted with white diamonds.

Top Ten Colors for Fall 2014

In the Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2014, listing the ten most prominent colors for the season, purple is the favorite, with the captivating and intriguing Radiant Orchid, the Color of the Year. At the other end of the violet spectrum is Mauve Mist, a romantic and elegant purple shade reminiscent of the deco era. Moving even warmer, the red shades are seen in the exotic Sangria, which evokes a sense of glamorous adventure and faraway destinations, and Aurora Red, a more sophisticated shade that adds verve and spark. Either red can be paired with Cypress, a powerful and majestic dark green with a lofty presence. As for the blues, Bright Cobalt, with a slightly greenish undertone, offers a subtle twist on the traditional cobalt blue, while Royal Blue provides more complexity and excitement than the average navy, while still remaining versatile. Bright Cobalt goes well with Sangria and Cypress, and Royal Blue is a natural with Mauve Mist and Aluminum, a stainless steel shade that serves as a complex neutral. Autumnal colors include Cognac, a cultured brown, making the shade unexpectedly ideal for evening wear. Rounding out the top ten colors for Fall is Misted Yellow, which alludes to the promise of spring to come.

Matching ring and earrings with green agate and diamond set in 18k yellow gold.

cypress Determining the Trends

bright royal cobalt blue

When asked how the trends are determined, Eiseman explains that there are two slightly different processes, depending on whether it is the Color of the Year or Colors of the Season. “For the Color of the Year, such as Radiant Orchid, we determine it well in advance of the year. We travel the world and look for increased usage of a particular color or family, in all domains, including films, technology and art. We also consider the overall mood of the nation and the world. What color symbolizes this general mood? We then take all of these clues and place them next to each other. If we see the same color in many areas, then it becomes a candidate for Color of the Year.�

Platinum ring set with tanzanite and diamonds.

Platinum blue sapphire and diamond ring .

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dian malouf jewelry



Christopher Designs Crisscut

www.lamourcrisscut.com The original Crisscut速 is a trademark used under license from Christopher Designs. Use of the Crisscut速 trademark is only allowed by authorized retailers.


OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER II

rolex

oyster perpetual and gmt-master ii are trademarks.


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