Fine Jewelry Magazine
Current Time
The Mastery of Rolex
American Icon–David Yurman
How to Buy a Diamond
Ippolita: Inspired By Nature
One-of-a-Kind
AU T U M N / H O L I D AY 2 0 1 2 • I S S U E O N E
Family owned by Susan, son Larry Stokes and his wife Kat.
As we celebrate twenty-nine years of service to Tyler and the surrounding areas, Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry would like to offer our sincerest gratitude for your continued patronage and loyalty. Over the years, Tyler has charged forward, evolved, progressed, and so has Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry. We strive to bring East Texas the most distinguished names in designer jewelry, to stay one step ahead of the latest fashion trends, and to work with our customers to create or find the one-of-a-kind piece for which they are searching. We feel truly blessed to share with you our vision and passion which is translated into our exquisite jewelry. Our loyal customers, vendors, and master jewelers, with whom we find great pleasure in working everyday, have helped us to grow and evolve over the years. Calling Tyler home includes being an active part of the community, both professionally and philanthropically. A portion of our revenue every year is designated to continual support of local schools, foundations, community events, and fundraisers. Our contributions and direct involvement includes causes such as The American Cancer Society, The Junior League of Tyler, Bethesda Clinic, and The American Heart Association. As a team and family at Susan Robinson, we are delighted to share the significant moments in your life. Fine jewelry, as an heirloom, reminds us to reflect upon and rejoice in life’s precious moments, to celebrate life and love, family and friendship, success and beauty. These pages offer a preview of the vast array of beautiful merchandise, whether you are shopping for the holidays, a special occasion, or simply treating yourself to something beautiful. Every day is an occasion, and every season has a reason. This holiday season, Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry will be hosting numerous trunk shows and charitable events to suit your every need and make your shopping experience memorable with exceptional service. In closing, may this coming year be one of good health, joyous occasions, and prosperity. With gratitude, Susan Robinson, Larry and Kat Stokes and the entire Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry Staff
Paul Tacorian Jude & Frances Emily Armenta
Roberto Coin
Sybil & David Yurman
Rolex Ambassador Arnold Palmer
Mizuki
FINE
JEWELRY
6 0 0 9 S O U T H B ROA DWAY • T Y L E R , T E X A S 7 5 7 0 3 • ( 9 0 3 ) 5 8 1 5 5 3 0 • W W W. S U S A N RO B I N S O N J E W E L RY. C O M Regular business hours are 10am-5:30pm Monday to Friday. • Holiday business hours are 10am-6pm Monday to Saturday
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ROBERTO COIN
p4 An American icon creating American classics
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Welcome
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American Icon–David Yurman The Mastery of Rolex Ippolita: Inspired by Nature A Viper Collection Modern Classics Current Time Charles Krypell
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The Armenta Mystique One-of-a-Kind Italian Adventure Tag Time The Tacori Touch How to Buy a Diamond Flying High with Breitling
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Switzerland Beckons Crafting an Heirloom The Magic of Morocco New Colors for Autumn Colorful Gems & Fashions
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Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director Larry Stuart • Art Director Carol Besler • Editorial Director
Select Jewelry Photography by Ron Saltiel and RSP Media Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012 T: 765-608-3081 • E: todd@tuftscom.com © 2012, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved.
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By now you should know, this season it’s all about
Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager
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ICON David Yurman creates American classics DAVIDYURMAN’S iconic jewelry has long been a favorite in the U.S. and
and textures to achieve a look and feel that is at once
beyond. Now, the brand’s American-designed, Swiss-
sporty and sophisticated. Both watches in the collection
made watch collections are winning the hearts of the
– an automatic and a chronograph – feature fine Swiss
brand’s fan base. “We’re an American company, design-
automatic movements. The automatic houses an ETA
ing watches in America for the American sensibility,”
2892, featuring hours, minutes, seconds and a date win-
says Evan Yurman, son of founders David and Sybil
dow. It has a 42-hour power reserve. The chronograph
Yurman and head of the company’s watch division.
sports a Valjoux 7753 movement, with a 48 hour power
The newest timepiece design is the David Yurman
reserve. David Yurman watches are made at the compa-
Revolution collection. It juxtaposes materials, finishes
ny’s watch division in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
The David Yurman Revolution Chronograph in stainless steel.
The David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition.
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© D. YURMAN 2012
The watch has a relaxed, elegant look when paired with a suit, but is also a sporty rugged timepiece for the adventurous soul. The sapphire crystal has a double-sided, anti-reflective coating, and the multi-layer galvanic dial is available in black or silver. It features a guillochÊ outer zone, and the applied Arabic numerals and indices are treated with Super-LumiNova. The case is stainless steel or 18k rose gold, with a rubber side insert and crown protectors, and it is water-resistant to 100 meters (330 feet). In keeping with the Yurmans’ respect for American design and ingenuity, the brand has partnered with another American icon for its first limited-edition timepiece collaboration. This year marks the 50th anniversary of Shelby American. Carroll Shelby, creator of the iconic Shelby Cobra and other landmark sports cars, is synonymous with American pride, as the company to continuously defeat Ferrari and other European marks on world circuits throughout the 1960s. Evan Yurman is no stranger to the craft and pursuit of fine automobiles: his own garage features several cars, including a 1970 Winston Cup powered Mustang and a museumready BelAir. The David Yurman Revolution automatic in rose gold.
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An enhancer from the David Yurman Labyrinth Collection.
Last April, Shelby unveiled its most powerful car yet, the Shelby 1000 — a car capable of shattering the 200mph mark. In celebration of the Shelby 1000, Yurman created the 150-piece Limited Edition David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 timepiece. Based on The Revolution watch design, the Limited Edition Shelby 1000 timepiece sports a stealth, 43.5mm stainless steel and rubber case, which houses the Swiss automatic chronograph Valjoux 7753 movement. A tachymeter is engraved on the bezel, allowing the wearer to log lap times with ease. The iconic Shelby Cobra insignia is hand-finished and applied to the multi-layer galvanic dial, which is accentuated by vertical, guilloché racing stripes. Like every special car to roll out of Shelby’s American factory, it is etched with Carroll Shelby’s signature. On the jewelry side, David Yurman’s continuing fascination with the beauty, tension and simplicity of a knot is reawakened in the Labyrinth Collection. It embodies the knot’s inherent tension and intricate connectivity. In many of the pieces, the rhythmic, looped configurations intertwine with Yin-Yang connectivity. Classic cable and smooth, polished strands interlock, combining these masculine and feminine elements. Though a new collection, it revisits classic designs, giving them a modern perspective.
Rings from the David Yurman Labyrinth Collection.
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the mastery of
Rolex
Complex construction and new technology ensure the makers of the Oyster Perpetual stay on top Rolex’s reputation as the world’s number-one watch brand is
feet) (seven miles) – in the Mariana Trench. True to its passion for
based on a solid foundation of performance and innovation. The
underwater exploration, Rolex took an active part in the expedi-
brand has pioneered some of the most important developments in
tion, in partnership with National Geographic. The brand attached
watchmaking, including the introduction of the Oyster, the world’s
an experimental watch to the outside of the one-man submarine,
first water-resistant watch in 1926, and the Perpetual rotor self-
on the manipulator arm, while Cameron himself wore a Rolex
winding mechanism, which Rolex developed in 1931. The compa-
Deepsea. Both watches and Cameron emerged unscathed. It was
ny has filed more than 400 patents in the course of its history.
the first attempt in 52 years to reach the Challenger Deep, the
Some of those patents are connected to the company’s dedica-
deepest point of the Mariana Trench, southwest of the island of
tion to water-resistance even in the deepest depths of the ocean.
Guam; Swiss oceanographer Jacques Piccard and U.S. Navy lieu-
Earlier this year, filmmaker and ocean explorer James Cameron
tenant Don Walsh touched bottom in January 1960 in a sub-
took a Rolex along with him when he touched down at the deep-
mersible. Rolex tested a watch on that dive too, which descended
est point in the world’s oceans – about 11,000 meters (36,100
to 10,916 meters.
Top: The Rolex Deepsea Challenge. Bottom: James Cameron descends into the Marianna Trench with a Rolex strapped to the outside of his submersible.
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Top: Rolex Sky-Dweller. Bottom: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II.
The experimental watch, the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, is 51.4mm in diameter and 28.5mm thick, and was engineered with Rolex’s patented three-piece Ringlock case architecture, anchored by a nitrogen-alloyed stainless-steel support ring. The ring is placed inside the middle case made of 904L stainless steel, a super-alloy, and supports a 14.3mm thick domed sapphire crystal made of high-purity aluminum oxide, as well as a 5.3mm screw-down case back made of grade-five titanium. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is an experimental version of the Rolex Deepsea. It embodies the heritage and technical and watchmaking know-how accumulated by the brand, notably with its diving watches. They include the iconic Submariner, which was introduced in 1953 with a depth rating of 200 meters (660ft) and the Sea-Dweller, which was unveiled in 1967 with a depth rating of 610 meters (2,000 feet). In 2008, the Rolex Deepsea was introduced with an even greater depth rating of 3,900 meters (12,800 feet). As a maker of all its own movements, Rolex has also been at the forefront of advances in component technology. Most of its watches are now fitted with Parachrom hairsprings, which are 10-times more precise than a traditional hairspring. The new Sky-Dweller, with 14 patents, is another example of Rolex innovation and is the latest addition to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection. It contains a new movement, caliber 9001, with a high-tech Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, and features a dual time zone. Local time is indicated via the center hands and a 24-hour track read on a rotating off-center disc indicates the reference time in a second time zone. The hour can be set either forwards or backwards. Changing the local time does not affect the minute and seconds hands, or the reference time. The watch is also an annual calendar, with a date indication that requires only one adjustment per year – when the month changes from February to March. The month is displayed by means of 12 discreet apertures placed just above each numeral. Local time, reference time and date functions are selected using the bezel, which is engineered with the Rolex Ring Command adjustment system. The heart of this mechanism is a double cam and levers that engage various gear trains inside the movement. The date is linked to local time and changes within a few milliseconds at midnight.
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Rolex has not forgotten the ladies in this flourish of innovation. Case components represent another area of innovation for
forming technique involving a deposition of either rhodium, yel-
Rolex. The Cosmograph Daytona, for example, is available in
low gold or pink gold over a pattern created from a metal plate. All
Everose gold with a Cerachrom bezel made from a tough, corro-
of the work on these dials, including the diamond setting, takes
sion-resistant and high-tech ceramic that is developed in-house by
place at Rolex’s Chêne-Bourg site, near Geneva — one of four
Rolex. The hour markers on the bezel are created using a special
Rolex manufacturing sites, all in Switzerland. This facility is home
PVD process whereby magnetron sputtering is used to deposit a
to the brand’s in-house gemology department and houses all Rolex activities linked to dial creation and manufacture, including jewelry and gem setting.
Rolex watches are sold only through authorized retailers in order to guarantee the quality and authenticity of Rolex watches.
fine layer of rose gold. In fact, the company also alloys its own gold. Yellow, white or Everose gold are then stamped and machined into cases at the Rolex manufacture in Switzerland and used to make bracelets. Rolex has not forgotten the ladies in this flourish of innovation. The company’s Datejust collection, in both the 26mm and 31mm size, offers a shimmering “Gold Crystals” dial, created using a proprietary technique in which a gold dial is chemically treated to reveal its natural crystal structure. Other models in the collection feature applied floral motifs produced using a patented electro-
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Left: Rolex Lady Datejust, with applied floral motifs. Right: The Rolex Lady Datejust with an electroplated gold dial.
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custom jewelry
A Fully Custom Viper With its sleek, recognizable design, the Dodge Viper has become an icon for American sports cars. This masterpiece has captured the hearts and imaginations of sports car aficionados around the world. How could anyone display their love and appreciation for such an amazing high-performance, adrenaline-pumping machine? Afterall you cannot wear a car….or can you? Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry teamed up with Atelier Minyon of New York to turn the vision and passion of one loyal customer into a one-of-a-kind bracelet, something this Viper enthusiast could wear everyday. The bracelet was hand-crafted with 18kt rose gold and 24kt yellow gold and features six car stations set with black and white diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and tsavorites. To exemplify their trademark, the unique clasp replicates the first and last generation of Viper’s logo. This exquisite piece is truly a work of art! Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry gives you the pleasure of creating and owning a piece of jewelry that is a part of you and your family. Let us bring your emotions and desires to life in a special piece designed just for you. Ralph Giles, CEO of SRT Brand
Viper Headquarters — Conner Avenue
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The Opal Couture necklace by Mikimoto, with baroque white South Sea cultured pearls and water opals.
Mikimoto, the pearl company that started it
One of the ways it accomplishes this is by mix-
all by creating the first cultured pearls and then
ing pearls with other gemstones in sometimes
introduced the world to the classic strand, has
surprising combinations. The Opal Couture col-
not lingered in the past. Despite taking pride in its heritage, Mikimoto has remained relevant by contin-
lection, a series of sweeping opera-length pendants, combines baroque white South Sea cultured pearls
uously reinventing tradition and setting new trends in
with glimmering, contemporary water opals set in ribbons of
pearl design.
white gold that are set with diamonds. No two are alike.
A strand in graduated colors from the Avenir collection by Mikimoto.
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SUSAN ROBINSON FINE JEWELRY
903.581.5530
From the Cherry Blossom collection by Mikimoto.
From the Evening Bloom collection by Mikimoto.
The Silhouette collection consists of a series of one-of-a-kind pieces that combine pearls with jade – this is the first time Mikimoto has ever used this gem. Each piece of jade is meticulously hand-carved in a floral motif and accented with sparkling diamonds. The Avenir necklace is a modern interpretation of the traditional pearl strand, combining akoya and South Sea cultured pearls in a graduated color spectrum, from rich peacock green to immaculate white. There is always a need for jewelry that can take you from day to night, pieces that are chic yet elegant, and Mikimoto’s Petit Soleil collection serves this need. The necklaces, pendants, rings and earrings are made of 18k white gold, featuring halos of tiny diamonds surrounding akoya cultured pearls that are chosen for this collection because of their superior luster and iridescence. Mikimoto America is the U.S. subsidiary of K. Mikimoto & Co., Ltd., the world-renowned Japanese company. In
1893, company
founder
Kokichi Mikimoto was the first person to develop a technique for the cultivation of pearls. Today, Mikimoto uses only the top 5% of the annual akoya cultured pearl harvest. The company’s product range includes the finest akoya, South Sea and baroque South Sea cultured pearls, as well as From the Silhouette collection by Mikimoto, mixing pearls with jade.
natural conch and melo pearls.
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SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES I WWW.SWISSARMY.COM
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The wristwatch is the ultimate accessory, with the power to give your wardrobe an instant boost. It can also help you to express your individual sense of style, navigate the depths of the ocean, or time your favorite athlete. Here is a glimpse of some of the latest trends in watches for men and women.
Classic The classic watch is a hallmark of good taste and the best option for office wear. It looks perfect with a suit, and fits under a shirt cuff much better than a chunky sports watch. Design codes include clean dials, traditional finishes, slim profiles and legible functions. The slim profile and understated elegance of the classic timepiece will never go out of style, but this year, classic is considered trendy!
>>TAG HEUER stainless steel CARRERA CALIBRE 6 watch with concentric dial, rose numerals & hands on a brown alligator strap
Auto-centric The longstanding connection between cars and watches stems from their shared focus on engineering, aesthetics and performance. Watch brands are dedicated to the ultraprecise measurement of speed, and watch brands stand behind many of today’s racing teams, organizations and automobiles as sponsors and official timers.
>>ROLEX 18K rose gold 40MM DAYTONA COSMOGRAPH with ivory index & subdials on a black croco strap 20
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Chronographs The chronograph is the world’s most popular complication. It was invented in 1821 to time horse races, but has since evolved to track much faster animals, including Olympic swimmers and Formula 1 racers. No other category of watches incorporates as many options in terms of design or technology: choose between split-seconds, fly-back, two-dial, three-dial, retrograde, column-wheel, chronometer-certified and even digital chronographs that can track time to 1/10th, 1/100th and even 1/1000th of a second.
>>BREITLING CHRONOSPACE Automatic watch with stratus silver and black dial on classic bracelet
Diver’s The dive watch is one of the most truly useful watches you can own. A good diver’s watch should have a minimum of 100 meters water-resistance, a screwdown crown and caseback so no water gets into the movement, luminescent markers for high legibility, a unidirectional rotating bezel to time dives and a double safety clasp on the bracelet. Some have depth gauges and helium valves.
>>ROLEX 43MM stainless steel SEA DWELLER DEEP SEA With black dial and bezel
Dual Timers Telling time in two (or more) places at once has become a modern necessity. The main dial of a world timer shows home time, while a 24-hour ring places the cities of the world according to the concurrent time in those locations. This allows you to quickly read off the time in various time zones. Most world timers represent the time in 24 world cities.
>>THE BREITLING TRANSOCEAN CHRONOGRAPH UNITIME simultaneously indicates the time in all 24 time zones. The new movement incorporates an innovative system that enables the user, when changing the time zone, to adjust all the indications in one smooth and easy move by simply turning the crown. The watch is also a 1/4th of a second chronograph.
Sports When chronographs first became popular in the 1990s, they were big, bold and clunky, with lots of color, bullet-sized pushbuttons and chubby cases. They were not for girls. Today’s chronographs are sleek, scaled-down, often diamond-set and fitted for a ladies’ wrist. Integrated stop-watch functions and totalizers are combined with a sport-chic, feminine styling.
>>SWISS ARMY CHRONOGRAPH CLASSIC gold watch with white ceramic bezel and white dial
Mechanical Today, most brands carry mechanical watches for ladies, offering everything from standard automatic movements to useful complications, such as dual timers and day/date functions. Wearing one of these mechanical masterpieces demonstrates some understanding of the complex and fascinating (and previously man’s) world of watch movements.
>>BREITLING GALACTIC 36 automatic watch with diamond bezel and diamond mother of pearl dial
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Jewelry Jewelry watches are always limited in production, often just to one, giving them an air of exquisite rarity. The finest examples demonstrate the highest craftsmanship of fine jewelry. Gems are always custom cut and matched to fit the case and bracelet of a jewelry watch. The most recent examples of jewelry watches demonstrate a mastery of both watchmaking and gemsetting – gem-set rotors are the latest examples of this.
>>ROLEX 34MM 18K white gold PEARLMASTER with multi-row diamond bezel and pavé diamond blue enamel roman dial
Large size A watch with a width of 27mm or 28mm was once standard for ladies’ watches, and anything larger was considered a novelty. Today, 35mm tends to be the standard width for ladies’ watches, and most are bigger than that. The advantage of this is that the dial becomes a larger canvas for finishing touches such as diamond setting, enameling and secondary functions. Also, the indications are more legible on a larger watch.
>>DAVID YURMAN stainless steel and 18K yellow gold 38MM CLASSIC watch with white mother ofpearl dial and diamond bezel
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Sterling silver and 18K yellow gold filigree citrine and green amethyst rings, 18K yellow gold diamond Ivy earrings and carved Ivy bold ring
Sculpting Timeless Beauty
It’s not surprising that Charles Krypell was a sculptor before he became an internationally renowned jewelry designer. Looking at his exquisite, perfectly balanced jewelry, it’s clear that one artistic craft flows seamlessly into the other. Constantly pushing the boundaries of design, Charles utilizes his sculptor’s eye, ample artistic talent, and keen insight into human nature to fashion one of the world’s premier jewelry lines. “A woman needs to be animated,” exclaims Charles. “She needs to wave her hands, live life to the fullest.” With this vision inspiring his work, Charles designs jewelry meant to be enjoyed from multiple approaches and dimensions, just like a piece of sculpture. “I want my clients to enjoy the piece at every single angle,” he explains. Charles stresses that it’s not simply enough to make a sale by having the man bring home a piece, offer it to the woman, and allow the woman to simply accept it. Instead, he designs pieces to reach deep inside the human heart. The ultimate for Charles is that women desire his jewelry. “The person who gives the gift,” Charles says, “will then be seen as the champion and complete the circle. That’s what I try to accomplish, satisfying the moment.” Working on his own, Charles launched his first collection in 1976, to immediate acclaim. Now, an astute businessman with several talented employees and a reputation for unsurpassed quality and customer service, Charles Krypell is known the world over by fine jewelers. He continues to challenge himself to reach the height of beauty and distinction. Currently, his line includes these exceptional collections: Precious Pastels, Pastel, Sterling, Gold, Sweethearts and of course, the signature Krypell Baguette Collection. The heart of Charles Krypell is the Precious Pastels Collection. To craft the exquisite pieces in Precious Pastels, Charles utilizes the best stones that come from the earth, including pink, yellow, blue and white diamonds, in platinum and 18-karat gold. He tailors Precious Pastels to the most discriminating collectors who wish to buy pieces and build a collection. Charles’s latest collection is Sterling by Krypell. As recognizable for its dimensionality, depth and perfect balance as his other collections, Sterling caters to a broader clientele who may wish to purchase a Charles Krypell piece at a lower price point or wear jewelry that is more casual. Charles, who understands the lifestyle of American women, explains that this line “creates a balance of the whole woman, not Sterling silver black diamond just of her jewelry.” In the end, however, it’s all about Charles’s love cuff and lariat for the craft and his understanding of the clientele he serves. In one word, it’s about passion — not only for sculpting exquisite jewelry that will be tomorrow’s heirlooms, but for satisfying his collectors in the here and now.
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show your love for her today... tomorrow... forever...
CHARLES KRYPELL’S NEWEST IVY LOVE BANGLE BRACELETS ARE HANDCRAFTED WITH A DISCREET MESSAGE SHOWING YOUR LOVE FOR HER TODAY, TOMORROW, AND FOREVER. AVAILABLE IN STERLING SILVER OR 18K YELLOW, ROSE, AND WHITE GOLD STERLING SILVER SET OF THREE $885 18K YELLOW, ROSE, AND WHITE GOLD INDIVIDUALLY PRICED AT $6,650
www.charleskrypell.com
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Stacked oxidized sterling-silver and 18k gold bangles with labradorite, peacock tourmaline, white, black and champagne diamonds, from the Midnight collection.
Emily Armenta specializes in combinations of 18k and 22k gold
I explore working with and mixing many different metals and
combined with "midnight" oxidized sterling silver with diamonds
stones to create a beautiful work of art." Moonstone is used in
and gemstones. It is this unique, modern approach to jewelry
many pieces of her jewelry. This gem is believed to bring good for-
design that defines her signature look. She says, "I love working
tune, to enhance passion, balance the yin and yang, and protect
with different materials that are rarely seen in the industry.
women and children.
I believe in unleashing the creative force within. Like a painter,
Stacked Midnight oxidized sterling-silver and 18k gold rings with labradorite and malachite doublets, white and black diamonds, and white sapphires.
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When Roberto Coin began to design and produce jewelry in 1977 on behalf of some of the most prestigious international brands of fine jewelry, he found himself quickly becoming one of the most sought-after designers in the business. He eventually launched his own brand in 1996, and has never looked back. Coin’s quirky yet elegant style, combined with the highest standards of craftsmanship, not to mention his winning personality and warmth, have brought him loyal admirers from around the world. “Luxury is a complicated challenge in this more complicated world. Every person has his own idea of what luxury really means. In the end, it might be as simple as doing whatever you want, whenever you want, as long as it pleases you and all the people that you care about.” Necklace in 18k gold with gemstones from the Roberto Coin Shanghai collection.
Roberto Coin Shanghai bracelet in 18k yellow gold with gemstones.
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Among his latest creations — for people who wear “what they want” — is a line called the Dragon collection, designed in honor of the Chinese New Year. It was inspired by ancient Chinese legend – these bewitching serpents are symbols of good fortune and passion. The collection includes a sublime mix of imagination, elegance and technique, illuminated by diamonds, enamel and rubies that are cleverly positioned as enchanting eyes.
Bracelet and ring in 18k gold, diamonds and enamel from the Dragon collection.
Also new is the Shanghai collection, inspired by Asian culture. The collection uses a unique melange of vibrant hues that provide
Bangles in 18k woven gold with diamonds from the Primavera collection by Roberto Coin.
the must-have ‘pop of color’ essential to every woman’s wardrobe this season. By mixing an array of gold colors with peridot, iolite, topaz and diamonds, alongside a myriad sleek shapes, Roberto Coin has once again achieved a look that is both contemporary and timeless. The Primavera collection, introduced last year, has also been refreshed with some new bangles in 18k yellow, white, or rose woven gold with a ring of diamonds. These bracelets can be worn singly or stacked. Gemstones have been added to the collection this year as well, for another great pop of color.
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italian adventure
h Cyndy Houg
binson On
& Susan Ro
ge Venice
Rialto Brid
Roberto Co
in
A Visit with Roberto
Coin in Italy
Roberto Co
in
Roberto Coin invited his most dedicated and ambitious retail partners to Vincenza, Italy to share with them the history and culture of his luxurious brand. Susan and Cyndy enjoyed fantastic sightseeing excursions as well as a visit to the Roberto Coin jewelry factory. They witnessed first hand the meticulous detail and care that is put into each Roberto Coin piece.
The Grand Canal — Venice
Dinner At A Countryside Winery
Andrea Palladio's Villa La Rotonda — Vicenza
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The Art Of Glassmaking — Murano
Romeo & Juliet's Famous Balcony — Verona
P L E A S E V I S I T U S AT W W W. P R E C I S I O N S E T. C O M O R C A L L 8 0 0 4 4 2 5 6 9 3
MADE IN AMERICA
In 2011, TAG Heuer dazzled the world with the Mikrotimer Flying 1000, a chronograph that measures and displays elapsed time to 1/1,000th of a second. The patented movement in this high-frequency timepiece is the result of several years of research. Impressive as it is, a year later, TAG Heuer followed up with the Mikrogirder 2000, which measures and displays elapsed time to 5/10,000ths (or 1/2,000ths) of a second, beating at 1,000 Hz or 7,200,000 vph. The Lady Link, above and left, comes in several dial options, and is worn by Cameron Diaz in the brand’s latest ad campaign.
That’s 20 beats per second — 250-times faster than any conventional chronograph.
To pay tribute to this partnership, TAG Heuer introduces the new Aquaracer 500M series. All members of the Oracle team wore a new Aquaracer timepiece during this year’s competition races. “We want to break every record ever set, for both man and machine,” says TAG Heuer president and CEO Jean-Christophe Babin. “We challenged our teams to create the most elegant yet resistant Aquaracer watch ever. Ceramic became obvious. A material that is four times harder than steel, yet lighter; unscratchable, yet precious. A perfect fit for the new Aquaracer, water-resistant to 500 meters, a watch with performance in its DNA.” The new Aquaracer is equipped with the TAG Heuer safety features that make it suitable for extreme watersports. Water-resistant to 500 meters, it has a helium valve at 10 o’clock. The special edition proudly salutes the Oracle Team USA colors with red accents standing out boldly against the vertical wave pattern of the black dial. TAG Heuer has also refreshed its ladies’ Link collection. In keeping with its dedication to women who are both active and elegant, the brand recently appointed Cameron Diaz as its ambassador. Cameron wears a timepiece from the Link collection in the brand’s current marketing campaign and to red carpet and other events. The Link Lady is set with diamonds on the bezel and indexes, and the mother-of-pearl dial is engraved in a swirl pattern. The case and bracelet are stainless steel. There are two sizes, 29mm and 34.5mm. Inside is a quartz movement, with the date at 6 o’ clock. The instantly recognizable and emblematic Link bracelet features S-shaped links.
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The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M is water resistant to 500 meters.
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tacori touch
A fusion of classic elegance and modern inspiration today, or 30 years from now, and it will still be the most beautiful piece in her jewelry box,” says Tacorian. The groom has not been forgotten, either: the brand’s signature Crescent Silhouette design motif is incorporated in all Tacori pieces, meaning that its men’s and ladies’ matching wedding bands When it comes to design, craftsmanship, and wearability,
are “born from each other,” he says. “This design element is in vir-
California-based Tacori takes pride in its jewelry. “Every piece
tually all our creations. This symbol unites a married couple. Just
reflects our passion for extra attention to detail and the personal
like the bride and groom are made for each other, so are their
touch,” says Paul Tacorian, senior vice-president of sales & market-
matching bands.” The design’s lace-like pattern is made of inter-
ing of the family business.
locking half-moon arcs that create windows of light to reflect the
This special attention and personal touch are found in both its
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wedding and fashion collections. Known for its bridal line, Tacori’s
Among Tacori’s best selling engagement rings is the Classic
signature is in the details, fusing classic elegance with modern
Crescent solitaire with a round center diamond, set in platinum or
inspiration to provide what Tacorian calls “contemporary heir-
gold. “Diamond crescent silhouettes decorate the sides of the ring,
loom.” The brand takes vintage, heirloom styling and creates a con-
while brilliant round diamonds taper along the shoulders for styl-
temporary look for today’s modern woman. “Her ring can be worn
ish flair,” Tacorian explains.
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Like snowflakes, every diamond is different and each one is beautiful in its own right. Diamonds, however, can be graded according to cut, color, quality and carat size. It is the particular combination of these elements that comes into play when Christopher Designs Platinum Diamond Ring
you set out to buy the right diamond for you. Each of these factors, alone and combined has an impact on a diamond’s value. Carat size: The larger the diamond, the higher the price, as they are valued primarily on carat size. Larger diamonds are rarer than smaller ones and therefore the price per carat rises exponentially with the size of the diamond. Clarity: This refers to the presence of flaws within a diamond. Marks on the surface are called blemishes. Internal marks are called inclusions. The amount, type, size and placement of these imperfections can diminish a diamond’s value — if they are in the center of a diamond, this has a greater effect on light return, for example, than if they are off to the side. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) clarity scale, the industry standard, contains 11 grades: Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2), Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2), and Included (I1, I2 and I3).
FLAWLESS (FL) No inclusions or blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10x magnification. Exceptionally rare.
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INTERNALLY FLAWLESS (IF) No inclusions and only blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10x magnification.
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VERY, VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (VVS1 AND VVS2) Inclusions are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification.
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Inside Outside Large Diamond Hoops
VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (VS1 AND VS2) Inclusions are clearly visible under 10x magnification but can be characterized as minor.
SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (SI1 AND SI2) Inclusions are noticeable to a skilled grader using 10x magnification.
INCLUDED (I1, I2, AND I3) Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance.
PHOTOGRAPHY: BARTOSZ POTOCKI
Christopher Designs Crisscut
Generic Round 58 Facet
Crisscut 速 Round 121 Facet
Generic Emerald 46 Facet
Crisscut 速 Emerald 77 Facet
www.christopherdesigns.com
Generic Cushion 58 Facet
Crisscut 速 Cushion 77 Facet
Tacori Royal T Round and Cushion Rings
Natural Fancy Yellow 6.38ct Diamond Ring
Color: The closer a diamond is to being colorless, the higher the
and quality of finish. The American Gem Society (AGS) diamond cut
grade. GIA’s color grading scale for diamonds, the industry standard,
grading system ranks round brilliant stones (the most common cut) on
starts with the letter “D” (colorless) and continues, with increasing
a scale from 0-10. According to the system, 0 is “ideal” and 10 is “poor.”
presence of color, to the letter Z.
The GIA diamond cut grading system ranks cut for round brilliant dia-
Cut: Some experts believe cut has the biggest impact on a dia-
monds on the following scale: “excellent,” “very good,” “good,” “fair”
mond’s beauty. Cut reflects the quality of a stone’s proportions, sym-
and “poor.” Ideal or excellent cuts reflect most or all of the light that
metry and polish, which combine to create a high amount of light
enters a diamond back to the eye; therefore, they are considered top-
return, sparkle and/or fire — there is no single ideal set of proportions,
of-the-line, and will command the highest pricess. A poorly cut dia-
however certain minimum standards of excellence come into play
mond is one in which its proportions are cause light to be reflected out
when assessing a stone’s roundness, depth, width, uniformity of facets
through the sides or bottom (pavilion) of the stone.
SHALLOW
IDEAL
DEEP
When a diamond is cut too shallow, light escapes out the bottom. When it is cut too deep, light escapes out the sides of the pavilion. When it is cut to idea proportions, light is returned out the table or top of a diamond. 40
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Tacori RoyalT Collection
Three Stone Diamond Rings
Different types of cuts can affect a diamond in various ways. One cut might produce more sparkle or “scintillation,” and others might create more light return. Another cut might create fire — that is, it returns the light in a way that produces a spectrum of color. This is where personal preference comes into play. Although light return is usually highly valued according to most grading systems, some people prefer fire, others scintillation. This is the variable that factors in when it comes to branded diamonds. Hearts on Fire and Lazare Kaplan, for example, cut their diamonds to certain standards of excellence and to achieve certain effects.
Charles Krypell Diamond Ring and Oval Bracelet
Although diamonds are graded by very strict standards, each one is unique, and the only way to truly compare two stones is to look at them side by side. If you consult a jeweler you trust, you should have no trouble finding the diamond of your dreams — one with the size and quality you desire, in a price range you can afford.
Diamond Ring and Inside Outside Diamond Hoops
18K White Gold Wide Pave Diamond Cuff With 48.57cts.
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The iconic, high-performance sports watch brand is one of the original makers of instrument watches for pilots
Breitling is widely known as the watch brand dedicated to aeronautics. The Swiss company, founded in 1884, made its first chronograph aviator’s watch in 1915, then went on to develop the first independent chronograph pushpiece in 1923, with a start and return-to-zero function. Today, Breitling makes a full range of pilot’s and other sports watches and is actively involved in the aviation world. The brand sponsors the Breitling Wingwalkers, for example, as well as the Jet Team of high-performance display jets, which recently performed at the Paris Air Show alongside the new Airbus A380. Both the Jet Team, with their L-39C jets, and the Wingwalkers perform breathtaking displays at air shows and sporting events around the world.
//// The Super Constellation is the latest model in the brand’s iconic Navitimer collection.
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//// The new Chronomat GMT in steel.
born
One of the brand’s most fascinating sponsorships is its relationship with Yves Rossy, also know as Jetman, who recently sustained an eight-minute flight through the Grand Canyon, powered by a jet-propelled wing attached to his back and steering only by the movement of his body. Breitling also sponsors the National Championship Air Races, and has even released a game application for ipads and iphones with an aviation theme, called Breitling Reno Air Races. Breitling’s watch collections reflect this aeronautic theme, from the iconic Navitimer and Chronospace series to the Cosmonaut. This year, the brand introducd the new Chronomat GMT, which contains a new Breitling caliber movement. Its outstanding feature is that the watch’s second time zone can be set without affecting its accuracy. The watch is also a high-performance column-wheel chronograph. Another high-performance aviation watch introduced this year is the Airwolf Special Naval Centennial limited edition, an electronic timepiece that offers pilots the finest technology. It contains an alarm, a 1/100th of a second chronograph with split-second and add times, a countdown function, dual time-
Breitling’s watch collections reflect this aeronautic theme, from the iconic Navitimer and Chronospace series to the Cosmonaut. zone with independent alarm and perpetual calendar. Its most striking feature, perhaps, is a turbine-shaped caseback that serves as a resonance chamber for the alarm and other audible indications. Some of the proceeds from sales of the watch will be donated to the 100th Anniversary of Naval Aviation Foundation, which raises awareness for naval aviation. Breitling also makes a full range of ladies’ watches, including several new models in its Galactic collection, including solid rose gold, steel and two-tone gold and steel versions. The new models also feature mother-of-pearl dials and diamond markers, proving that even the makers of some of the world’s most extreme-sport watches are designing feminine-styled timepieces for ladies!
//// The Airwolf Special Naval Centennial limited edition.
//// The Breitling ladies Galactic, in solid rose gold, with seconds counter at 6 o’clock.
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High in the Sky with Breitling As if a trip to Le Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland and a tour of the Breitling Chronometrie was not enough, Larry Stokes of Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry was invited to experience the Breitling Philosophy first hand. As part of their Level IV training, Breitling selected top jewelers from all ends of the globe to participate in a week of hands-on learning and high-flying adventures in Buochs, Switzerland. This family business is one of the last remaining independent watch brands. Founded in 1884, Breitling has a rich heritage in aviation and diving. During the early 1930s, pioneers in the aerospace field were in need of precise and sturdy instruments to assure safety and reliability. The Breitling Chronograph provided just that and has continued to evolve over the years to be one of the few chronomatic watches with 100 percent of its movement made in-house. On the trip to Switzerland, Breitling’s appreciation and understanding of aviation was apparent, not just through their fine timepieces, but with their collection of aircrafts which include the only civilian flown jet fleet in the world and The Super Constellation, which was the first commercial aircraft to make a trans-Atlantic trip. As part of his training, Larry experienced the G-force while flying with Breitling’s civilian Jet Team, stood on the wing of an airplane in flight, and went for a thrilling skydive over the Swiss Alps. Since his return, Larry has shared his story and has been amazed by the countless extraordinary experiences of avid Breitling collectors and new enthusiasts. Every watch tells a story. What’s yours?.
Larry Stokes over Switzerland
Wayne Gretzky, Larry Stokes & Derek Bell
Larry Stokes and the Breitling jump team
THE GREAT ONE Wayne Gretzky’s undisputed mastery of his craft, coupled with an understated elegance in his persona have led to that rarest of phenomena - universal respect and admiration. Dominating the NHL unlike any player in its history, he has won four Stanley Cups, holds over 61 records and was an 18 time All-Star. The spirit of quiet excellence, professional integrity, and superlative performance all combine to elevate Wayne Gretzky to his unique position in the uppermost strata of sport. A partner of this exceptional athlete, Breitling has embodied the same ethic throughout its 127-year history, developing its “instruments for professionals” according to the highest standards of sturdiness, reliability and functionality. Closely associated with the world of aviation, Breitling is the only watch brand to equip all of its models with chronometer-certified movements – the ultimate token of precision. Today, Breitling soars to new heights with the creation of its Manufacture Caliber 01, the most reliable, high-performance self-winding chronograph movement. Another “Great One.”
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T H E A R T O F W I L L I A M H E N R Y D E C O R AT I V E K N I V E S
A William Henry pocketknife is as much intuitive as it is utilitarian, as much a piece of art as it is an award-winning accessory. Crafted from metals, wood, stone, fossil ivories and more, each knife is the result of a succession of discreet steps that culminate in a small masterpiece. Matt Conable, president and co-founder of the company, is intrigued by the sensuous intersection of form and function, warmth and cold, hard and soft, and in his role as designer, this perspective is evident in the juxtaposition of patterns and materials. The earthy warmth of desert ironwood, for example, is the perfect counterpoint to cool Damascus steel, and the totemic DNA of fossil ivory effectively contrasts with the swirl of mokume gane.
From the Autumnwood collection by William Henry.
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Writing instrument from the Kotfgari collection by William Henry.
Fairway golf tee by William Henry.
Founded in 1997, William Henry now resides in a 6,400-square-foot manufactory in McMinnville, Oregon, that feels more like an artisan’s workshop than a stateof-the art facility. Conable modeled the space after a custom knife shop, which is where he first honed his craft as a teen. With natural shell hailing from Australia, wood from such reaches as Morocco and Mexico, and fossil mammoth bone from Russia or Alaska, as well as metalworkers, fine engravers and stone experts stationed all over the globe, each knife is a remarkable international affair. The components are precision machined to tolerances reserved for aerospace level work — often measured at 0.0005th of an inch, or one-twelfth the size of a human hair. But the final fit, finish, action and sharpness are achieved by hand, employing the time-honored craftsmanship developed by generations of master cutlers. There are 18 craftspeople at the Oregon studio, collectively realizing the company’s motto: “Superlative function deserves to be elevated to superlative art.”
His collection of pens has already won prestigious awards and gained a new legion of devotees for their beauty, design and original materials. The pen shop, adjacent to the knife-making area, has a buzz all its own. There, each pen is turned, assembled and polished as a whole to a glass-like finish, rendering every piece unique. And here, too, it seems that human touch accounts for more than the most technologically advanced machinery: after multiple polishings, each of the rollerball and limited-edition fountain pens is carefully examined by hand for any imperfections. The names of the pen collections are an homage to the Willamette Valley wine country where William Henry is located: Cabernet, Zinfandel, Pinot and Merlot. The fountain pens feature 18-karatk gold German-made nibs. A William Henry pocketknife takes more than twelve 12 months to produce, comprising the work of more than 30 artisans and 800 individual operations. There are currently about ten 10 distinctive knife collections available, each with a personality all its own. In addition, the company produces exclusive editions as well as oneof-a-kind pieces. “Heirloom quality,” a tenet on which the company was founded, doesn’t come easily.
From the Fire and Ice collection by William Henry.
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Earrings from the Moroccan Magic collection by John Hardy.
Founded in Bali, headquartered in Hong Kong, and with offices in New York, Bali and Bangkok,
Naga motif ring, with scale imagery on the shank, from the Moroccan Magic collection.
John Hardy is one of the most exotic jewelry companies in the world. The designs are inspired by a combination of Asian, North African and Western influences, and the company follows a “Greener Every Day” environmental policy. The brand is committed to sustainable practices in every aspect of its creative process. John Hardy uses recycled silver, sources alluvial gold and tracks the origins of its gemstones. Bamboo is a favorite motif in John Hardy designs, and as a tribute to that, the company’s “Wear Bamboo, Plant Bamboo” initiative reduces its impact on the planet. To date, John Hardy has planted 800,000 bamboo plants throughout Bali, restoring critical natural habitats while protecting the water table.
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Dots of gold and silver in a cuff from the Moroccan Magic collection.
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As a sharp contrast to both the customary somber autumnal hues of the past and the popularity of black again this fall, jewel-tones take center stage like never before. Warm hues to brighten the winter months such as chartreuse, tomato red, blood orange, purple plum and cobalt blue are a welcome shift from recent color palettes. The big winner was green in varying tonalities, from bottle green to brighter emerald and especially jade, a blue-green hue that flatters all skin-tones.
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Photos Courtesy of Luisa Cerano
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18k yellow gold oval dome ring with citrine center and orange and yellow sapphires
Pantone, the world-renowned authority on color, has named the bold orange color “Tangerine Tango� its color of the year. This bold hue is also one of the main colors found in fine jewelry this year, and is represented by such gemstones as Mandarin garnet, fire opal, citrine, imperial topaz, spessartite, jade, sapphire, amber, chalcedony, carnelian and agate, among others. Evocative of the changing seasons, orange is a warm autumn color, midway between Dress by Lorena Sarbu. (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, New York, Fall/Winter 2012)
the heat of summer and the cool of winter. The color of creativity and ambition, this warm tone is thought to increase enthusiasm, self-esteem and confidence, while increasing the desire to explore and embrace new ideas. A power color, with high visibility, orange also commands attention, while symbolizing strength and endurance.
18k yellow gold cross pendant containing tsavorites, yellow sapphires, orange sapphires and chocolate diamonds
24k yellow gold hammered ring with oval carnelian center and armenta midnight sterling silver and 18k yellow gold drop earrings with red jasper doublet
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Dress by RobertoTorretta. (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, Madrid, Fall/Winter 2012)
A calming yet inspirational color, blue is a perennial favorite in both jewelry and fashion. This season, it is especially popular. For the Fall/Winter 2012 fashion season, Pantone’s blue pick is “Olympian Blue,” a patriotic tone that will find its way into women’s apparel this fall. When accessorizing with jewelry, this shade of blue is evoked by the beauty of many gemLika Behar turquoise necklace
stones including sapphire, topaz, azurite, iolite, lapis lazuli and opal. On a more philosophical note, for many, blue symbolizes loyalty, wisdom, trust, confidence, intelligence and truth. Many believe this cool and soothing color is beneficial to both the body and the mind, and is thus often associated with tranquil-
Jude Frances 18k white gold diamond huggies with blue sapphire and diamond charms
ity and calmness. The color of the sky and sea, blue ranges from lighter softer tones to darker and even more intense shades. 18k white gold sapphire and diamond ring, 18k white gold checkerboard blue sapphire and diamond band, and 18k white gold princess cut sapphire and diamond band
Charles Krypell precious pastel blue sapphire and diamond bracelet
Antique cabochon cut aquamarine and diamond ring
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Dress by Juana Martin. (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, Madrid, Fall/Winter 2012)
One of this year’s hot fashion colors is the bold and vibrant Pink Flambé, as forecast by the color authority Pantone. A combination of white and red, pink evokes romance, love and friendship. A feminine color, it provides feelings of warmth, tenderness, caring, self-esteem and acceptance. People who love beauty often favor pink tones. The deeper shades are also known to neutralize disorder and violence and promote relaxation and contentment. Many feel that pink gemstones can stimulate love and protect their wearers from harm. Among the many beautiful pink gems used in jewelry — including softer paler shades as well as the more vivacious darker tones — are rubellite, sapphire, ruby, rhodolite, spinel, Imperial topaz, rose quartz, pink diamond, mother-of-pearl, tourmaline, morganite, kunzite and garnet. Just as a pink carnation says “I will never forget you,” so does a pretty piece of pink gemstone jewelry. 18k rose gold braided ring with diamonds Pile of rose gold bracelets
Roberto Coin 18k rose gold link bracelet
Rolex 36MM 18k rose gold Day Date with presidents bracelet, fluted bezel and black mother of pearl diamond dial alongside a 18k rose gold diamond bracelet
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Dress by Donna Karan. (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, New York, Fall/Winter 2012)
The color purple combines the stability and calm of blue with the passion and energy of red. Historically associated with royalty, purple is a symbol of power, nobility and luxury. It is also thought to evoke peace and tranquility, and has been associated with creativity, mystery and magic. Among the favorite purple gemstones of jewelry designers today are
amethyst, purple sap-
phire, topaz, spinel and jade, which evoke the range of purple in nature, from the cooler shades to the warmer tones. For fashion this year, Pantone predicts the most popular purple color will be what it calls “Rhapsody,� a grayed-down violet.
Ippolita Wonderland doublet grape earrings and grape pear ring
Three Lika Behar blue chalcedony, amethyst, and pink tourmaline bracelets
Sal Praschnik amethyst ring
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Three Ippolita Wonderland amethyst and mother of pearl bracelets
Every item in our store has been especially selected for you, our customer. The creativity, ingenuity and craftsmanship in each piece of jewelry exemplifies our steadfast commitment to offering East Texas the very best. Whether you are celebrating an engagement, birthday, anniversary, new arrival, or special holiday, we have the perfect token to mark the occasion. Each gift is custom wrapped, hand-delivered, or shipped with the utmost care. To brighten up your Holiday Season, bring in your copy of the Susan Robinson Fine Jewelry Magazine as a $50 credit towards any purchase over $100.*
*One per customer, must be presented at point of sale and redeemed in 2012.
FINE
JEWELRY
6 0 0 9 S O U T H B ROA DWAY • T Y L E R , T E X A S 7 5 7 0 3 • ( 9 0 3 ) 5 8 1 5 5 3 0 • W W W. S U S A N RO B I N S O N J E W E L RY. C O M Regular business hours are 10am-5:30pm Monday to Friday. • Holiday business hours are 10am-6pm Monday to Saturday