YOUR
Gardening Year
THE BEST OF SUSSEX LIVING!
Welcome to our gardening e-mag A message from the Hidden County team… After what has seemed like an eternal winter we’re finally getting back into the brighter nights as Spring begins! And what better way to celebrate the start of the gardening season than by pulling together our favourite articles on getting the best of your outdoor space and plant life? So we give you our e-magazine for March: a collection of tips and features covering the gardening season through the 12 months of the year. Starting with this month through to February, each piece from our gardening expert Flo Whitaker is intended for a month of the year, but all should assist with your gardening needs. Read on, and enjoy…
hidde making the MOST of sussex
island making the MOST of our
from SUSSEX LIVING 3
MARCH
f lower POWER Whether used for political authority, religious symbolism or secret communication between lovers, Flo Whitaker brings us the language of flowers and their long and fascinating history
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e have always been captivated by flowers. The Old Testament is full of botanical references and flowers have appeared in sacred art since pre-Christian times. Royal occasions are heavy with floral symbolism, flower motifs appear on ancient coats of arms and Shakespeare mentioned over 50 different plants in his plays. This reminds us that the language of flowers was once a part of everyday life. Their significance is mostly lost now, but some themes have passed down the ages and are still with us. Red roses have always been associated with ‘pure’ love, whereas exotic orchids and sultry red tulips indicated burning desire and passion. A Victorian gentleman seeking the hand of a lady might receive a secret posy of rose foliage – without flowers, giving the indication, ‘you may hope’. Rosebuds were associated with themes of innocence and childhood; a rosebud posy was considered an appropriate gift for a mother with a new-born child. Departures, good or bad, were highly 4 SUSSEX LIVING
significant events. When embarking on a long journey; ‘lucky’ white heather was worn as a talisman. If you had been a guest at someone’s home, you might send your host a thank-you posy of sweet peas as they indicated ‘a fond farewell’, and a bunch of forget-me-nots requires no explanation. Flowers associated with mourning have a sombre poignancy. White lilies are the biblical flower of purity, but also of grief. Their complicated symbolism bears witness to the cycle of life - you are just as likely to see them used in a wedding bouquet or a funeral wreath. Sweet violets, soberly dressed with their
deep green leaves and gothic purple flowers were a favourite at Victorian funerals. No advertising agency could ever come up with a logo more powerful than the remembrance poppy. These short-lived blooms with their blood red petals stand as a testament to the tragedy of war. The humble paper remembrance poppy speaks for us all. It knows no social boundaries and is just as likely to be worn by a homeless rough-sleeper – or the Queen. The language of flowers is a complicated one. It’s not just the type of flower that matters; it’s the colour too. In this regard, yellow does not generally fare well. Blue hyacinths, with their overtones of faithfulness
Red roses have always been associated with ‘pure’ love, whereas exotic orchids and sultry red tulips indicated burning desire and passion and constancy, make a charming posy – but beware a gift of yellow ones, as they signal jealousy. Marigolds may appear cheerful, but they represent cruelty, yellow carnations indicate disappointment or despair and yellow lilies hysterically scream, “I hate you!” Worst of all are yellow chrysanthemums, for they spell ‘tainted love’. Hmmm… Did you assume that the giving and receiving of flowers was a charmingly innocent pastime? Better go and check that Valentine’s bouquet – just in case… l
APRIL
make a cutting garden A cutting garden takes up little space, requires no design skills and can be made in a weekend, explains Flo Whitaker
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he evolution of the great country house necessitated the invention of the cutting garden. How to provide vast quantities of blooms for indoors without plundering the ornamental flower beds? By making a separate area solely for the production of cut flowers - with plants grown in straight lines to make harvesting easier. A cutting garden is fun to make and can be created in a small space, (mine is 6ft x 6ft!) No clever artistry, tasteful colour schemes or fancy design elements are required - but not everyone appreciates them. To horticultural aesthetes, (defined as people who talk endlessly about gardening but never actually do any) a cutting garden is a
nerve-jangling, technicolour mish-mash. Fools. Choose a sunny, open situation for your cutting garden. Add slow-release fertiliser to the soil and dig in plenty of organic matter, (compost or leaf mould.) Hardworking plants will reward you if given fertile, moisture-retentive soil. Don’t make your bed(s) too wide - everything needs to be within easy reach. If necessary, make a simple path out of chipped bark, or lay a couple of paving slabs onto the soil to use as stepping stones. Be vigilant about staking, tying in and deadheading. Flowers destined for the vase need strong, straight stems - use robust plant supports and get them in early. A horizontal ‘grow-through’ plastic mesh or a ‘web’ of garden twine will safely support heavier flowers, such as dahlias and sedums. Fast-growing annuals are the backbone of a cutting garden; they will romp away from an April sowing. Cosmos, larkspur, ammi, cornflower, Snapdragon
Zinnia
zinnia and nicotiana enjoy each other’s company and can be relied upon to harmonise in a flower bed or vase. Linaria is a lesser-known annual. You might find it listed as ‘Toadflax’, but don’t let that deter you as the blooms resemble miniature snapdragons. Speaking of which, snapdragons, (antirrhinums) make fabulous cut flowers. Forget the nasty bedding types - look for elegant varieties such as ‘Liberty Crimson’, or ‘Axiom’. Their long-stemmed genes hark back to the days of Victorian and Edwardian florists, when snapdragons were a favourite cut flower.
Long-stemmed snapdragons hark back to the days of Victorian and Edwardian florists, when they were a favourite cut flower Grow foliage/filler plants in your borders so you always have a plentiful supply for arrangements. Tough customers that can stand a regular snipping include varieties of euphorbia and nepeta, along with heuchera and alchemilla. Perovskia is doubly useful for the flower arranger; providing aromatic foliage from early summer and masses of tiny blue flowers as the season progresses. Cineraria and helichrysum petiolare are usually relegated to the summer bedding aisles but they offer vase-worthy silvery/ grey leaves with a felted texture - perfect for teaming with sweet peas. Leafy herbs such as sage and apple mint are deliciously fragranced and may even take root in the vase water - giving new plants for free. l
Cosmos Cornflower Larkspur
SUSSEX LIVING 5
SECTION SUBJECT MAY
Bees are in serious decline. Why not grow some bee-friendly plants and help put the sound of summer back into our gardens
Bee Smart A
stonishingly, there are approximately 250 different types of bee in the UK. Some species are extremely rare, occurring in a few specific locations. Others are far more familiar and can be readily seen in our parks and gardens, but all have been affected to a greater or lesser extent from modern methods of farming, gardening and habitat loss. Other pollinating insects have suffered similar fates which could have serious repercussions for us all. Simply put, if there were no pollinators in the world, the human race would starve. Taking a wildlifefriendly approach to gardening makes sense in so many ways. We assume that our modestsized plots can make no difference but, collectively, our gardens cover a million acres; ‘we’ are the biggest landowners in Britain! For some, the term ‘wildlife-friendly gardening’ conjures up an off-putting image of Steptoe’s Yard, but there are 6 SUSSEX LIVING
many garden-worthy flowers that also make excellent pollinator plants - even the tidiest gardener can do their bit for bees. Springtime weather is notoriously fickle. Many bees perish due to cold conditions and lack of food. Earlyflowering, pollen-rich plants can make all the difference to their survival. Snowdrops and aconites are usually first to flower; with hellebores, daffodils and crocus in hot pursuit. Shrubs such as camellias, viburnums, winter honeysuckle and mahonias will be eagerly sought out by hungry bees and if you have room for a small tree such as a hazel or ornamental cherry, so much the better. A crab apple will produce clouds of blossom as well as attractive autumn fruits for birds to enjoy. Herbs such as lavender, thyme, borage and oregano are particularly pollen-rich. Buddleias, foxgloves, alliums and lupins will provide food in early summer, while sedums, coneflowers and verbenas extend the
larder into autumn. Many annual flowers are favoured by pollinating insects. As the name suggests, annuals are plants that complete their life cycle in one year. They provide bursts of colour in the borders for little effort and are naturally fast-growing - it’s not too late to sow some now. Nasturtium and cosmos
For some, the term ‘wildlifefriendly gardening’ conjures up an off-putting image of Steptoe’s Yard seed will germinate within a few days. Sow thinly in trays and prick out the seedlings when they have reached about 2 cms in height. Hold seedlings by their leaves - not their stems. It’s so easy to accidentally crush a soft young stem, with fatal results; whereas a torn leaf is seldom the end of the world as a vigorous seedling will quickly produce another one. Sweet peas are also beloved by bees. You won’t get prize-winning blooms from a May sowing, but the bees won’t care! Sweet peas hate root disturbance sow individually in small pots and when the seedlings are approximately 6 cms l
JUNE
Failed at hanging baskets? Have another go! Flo Whitaker explains how many plants will cope with high-rise living, just so long as you give them a little TLC
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any people try - then fail spectacularly at hanging baskets, vowing, “never again!” as they assume they’re useless at gardening. This is a great shame as folk don’t realise that they’re setting the horticultural bar very high. Hanging baskets are one of the most difficult disciplines in the gardening world. After all, what you are really trying to do is to grow plants suspended in mid-air, in a colander, with limited access to soil and water. Tricky… Firstly, ensure your basket fixing is safe and secure! When filled, even the smallest basket will weigh more than you think. Next, consider how you’re going to keep the basket watered. You can purchase a long ‘watering wand’ attachment for a hosepipe which allows you to reach up to the basket. Or there are clever ‘rise and fall’ pulley systems that will lower the basket up and down. That’s great, but if you can’t keep the soil adequately moist you’re back to square one. Leaf mould is brilliant stuff; a handful mixed into potting soil will hold water like a sponge. Speaking of sponges… those square spongy washing-up cloths are
High Hopes perfect in hanging baskets. Place a couple in the bottom layer of soil and they’ll trap water, preventing it from running straight through the bottom. Another good idea is to bury a plant saucer in the compost - it will also hold
Deadheading is a bore, but is well worth it with hanging baskets as it will encourage plants to keep the display going a reservoir of moisture. If placed in a sunny spot, be prepared to water your hanging basket once a day - or twice in particularly hot weather. Hanging basket plants need to put on a lot of growth in a short space of time - they require regular feeding. Use a weekly liquid feed diluted in water, or food pellets mixed into the potting compost - the pellets will slowly release nutrients over the growing season. Deadheading is a bore, but is well worth it with hanging baskets as it will encourage plants to keep the display going. Plastic hanging baskets do a functional job for very little money, but are not terribly attractive. They’re
excellent for creating a ‘ball’ of plants where scarcely any trace of the container can be seen. Other baskets are more decorative and are made to be shown off, so choose plants that are not over-exuberant in growth, or be prepared to selectively trim stems. Baskets made from natural materials such as woven wicker or grasses will naturally compliment the scene. Cone-shaped baskets; wide at the top, tapering to a thin point, always look better and more ‘balanced’ if you can still view the lower part of the container, as opposed to an unruly mess cascading down the sides like bad hair extensions. I particularly love those delicate-looking wirework baskets. Made from galvanised metal in quiet shades of silvery-grey, they’re not cheap, but, with care, (empty them and store indoors during winter) will last a good few years. Pre-formed liners are available for standard baskets, but for non-standard shapes you’ll need to make your own. You’ll require damp moss or coir fibre and lots of patience - bah! The secret is to use plenty of material in a thick layer. Build the liner from the bottom upwards, firming against the sides and filling with soil and plants as you go. l SUSSEX LIVING 7
JULY
The crops are coming in! Flo Whitaker explains how to harvest your fruit and veg regularly and make the most of summer’s bounty!
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t’s all go on the fruit and veg patch in July. Regular harvesting and inspection of crops, (daily, if possible) is the key. Far better to pick small-size produce, rather than delay for a few days and be faced with unappetising bullet-hard peas and over-ripe fruit. You’ll also be able to quickly spot any problems as they arise. Blackcurrants, raspberries and gooseberries are reliable croppers that are relatively easy to grow, but they can suffer
Focus on FRUIT harvesting, although the stems will eventually from mildew, (a white/grey mould.) Affected leaves become woody and unpalatable. After using so can be removed but mildew is difficult to much energy during spring, rhubarb needs control. The microscopic spores easily spread moisture to bulk up its reserves now. As July and the condition is often weather-related; and August are usually the driest months, bad in some years, absent in others. you can help by giving the surrounding If it’s a persistent problem, try planting soil a really good soaking, followed by a some mildew-resistant varieties. Keeping thick mulch of compost or leaf mould. foliage dry by watering the soil, not the Rhubarb sometimes produces curiousleaves, helps, as does having good air looking flower shoots. If left, they will rob circulation around the plants. Bear that Rhubarb is a ‘Goldilocks’ energy from the plant, so cut them off at in mind when pruning out old stems in plant that dislikes being the base. spring - leave plenty of space and air flow too hot, too cold, too Strawberry plants produce ‘runners’ for new growth. in high summer; long, non-fruiting stems Pests and diseases seldom trouble wet or too dry - it wants with ‘nodes’ - specially adapted joints rhubarb, but it is known for being a everything to be ‘just right’ that root when they touch soil. Runners ‘Goldilocks’ plant. Rhubarb is ultrashould be removed, unless you want to sensitive to environmental conditions and make more plants for free! Strawberry dislikes being too wet, too dry, too hot or too cold - like Goldilocks, it wants everything to be ‘just plants run out of steam after a few years so it’s always useful right’. You should stop picking rhubarb by mid-July, but if to have some vigorous replacements in reserve. Cut stiff wire you have vigorous plants, you can continue with some gentle into 10 cm lengths and bend them to make ‘U’ shaped pins. Fill small pots (approx. 8 cms diameter) with gritty compost, lay a runner across a pot, press the node area gently into the surface of the compost and secure it in place with a pin you may get several new plants from each runner. Keep the compost damp until the new plants are welldeveloped, (4-6 weeks), then cut away the now-redundant runners to make individual potted plants that can be easily transplanted. They will happily overwinter and crop for you next summer. l
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AUGUST
Nothing is more essential to life than water! By collecting rainwater and re-cycling household water, Flo Whitaker tells us how gardeners can help to conserve this precious resource
Water
wise
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f all the water on earth could be poured into a 4 litre container, the amount available for immediate human consumption would only fill a tablespoon. Most of the world’s water is salty or frozen. The global population has now reached 7.6 billion, but there is no more water now than there was when our planet was formed. Water has never been in such demand – we gardeners can help with its conservation. Plants wilt for many reasons, so don’t automatically reach for the hosepipe if a plant has flopped. Used incorrectly, pest and disease sprays makes foliage shrivel and wilt. An infestation of aphids, slugs or
In a cottage garden setting, a collection of vintage watering cans arranged around a traditional barrelshaped water butt is both practical and ornamental vine weevil grubs will also cause a plant to collapse spectacularly. Perversely, overwatered plants exhibit symptoms similar to underwatered ones. If a potted plant looks unhappy, turn it out of the container and check the soil before you water. Drainage holes in patio pots sometimes get blocked, the compost surface may
appear dry, but if you dig down 10 cms it may be foul-smelling and wringing wet. Border plants can also become waterlogged. A leaking downpipe that went undetected during winter, slowly turned one of my flowerbeds into a bog. Rainwater butts are the obvious way to conserve water. In a cottage garden setting, a collection of vintage watering cans arranged around a traditional barrel-shaped water butt is both practical and ornamental. Modern-style rainwater tanks look boringly functional but they’re cleverly designed to be used in awkward spaces where barrels won’t fit. Some can be attached vertically to a wall; their super-slim design means they won’t encroach over a path or driveway. Remember, it’s easy to underestimate the weight of water! Unless you are competent at DIY, (my father reckoned that DIY meant ‘Don’t Involve Yourself’) it’s best to ask a tradesperson to install rainwater tanks, especially if sturdy fixings or changes to guttering and pipework are required. Some household wastewater can be recycled in the garden. Well-established trees and shrubs will tolerate small quantities of detergent; the occasional drench of bath, shower or washing-up water will cause no harm. However, only use clean water on seedlings, young plants or leafy vegetables, (e.g. lettuce, cabbage, spinach) and never use dishwasher water to irrigate plants – it’s far too salty. Houseplants love the pure, room temperature water from dehumidifiers and (cooled!) excess boiled water from a kettle. Summer-planted containers usually require daily watering. For border plants, watering little and often is not advisable as this will only dampen the soil surface. Roots, sensing the moisture, will migrate upwards into the hotter top layer of soil, making them vulnerable to drought. Better to generously water fortnightly – the water will soak down to the roots where it will do real good. l SUSSEX LIVING 9
SEPTEMBER
WAR ON
Weevils When observing the activities of garden insects it pays to know your enemies and give a helping hand to your friends
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here is a pest for every season. My award for September’s ‘Pest of the Month’ goes to the Vine Weevil beetle. Adult beetles are 8-10mm long, grey-ish/black with dull yellow spotting. They are most active at dusk, munching irregular-shaped holes on foliage. The damage is annoying, but mostly cosmetic - a more serious problem is caused by the juvenile grubs. Throughout the summer, female beetles lay eggs just below the soil surface. As they hatch, the creamy-white larvae burrow deeper, feasting on plant roots before pupating into adults the following year. Out of sight and undetected, it could be months before the gardener becomes aware of the infestation. Come springtime, affected plants attempt to grow but the severe root damage ensures their rapid demise.
The random bite marks of Vine Weevil vandals should not be confused with the activities of the admirable Leaf Cutter bee – they have far superior table manners
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Established plants growing in open ground often survive an attack. Hedgehogs, birds and frogs predate on adults and larvae, but newly-planted specimens are highly vulnerable, as are any potgrown plants. Patio pot compost is lighter and drier than garden soil; the perfect environment for larvae to burrow and overwinter. Potted conifers, acers, primulas, hydrangeas, fuchsias, cyclamen, rhododendrons and azaleas are their favourite foods, so be vigilant. I seldom use garden chemicals, but do treat my patio pots against Vine Weevil every autumn, while the young grubs are active, but before they have a chance to do significant damage. I use a ‘drench’ method; diluting the chemical as directed, then drenching the soil with a watering can fitted with a fine rose. The random bite marks of Vine Weevil vandals should not be confused with the activities of the admirable Leaf Cutter bee - they have far superior table manners. Leaf Cutters neatly snip near-perfect semicircles around leaf edges, (rose leaves are a particular favourite,) then, with heroic effort, carry the pieces off to a nest site. Each leaf portion is rolled into a cone shape and pushed inside a hollow stem or a crevice in rotting timber. A single egg is laid into each cone, and the end sealed with more leafy material. They are diligent parents; regularly checking their incubating offspring and making repairs to the nursery. When clearing your borders this autumn, don’t be too tidy. Leave clumps of hollow-stemmed plants standing and tuck handfuls of dry leaves under a hedge or in the corner of a sheltered border. These hidey holes will give protection to many beneficial overwintering insects. Leaf Cutter bees are passive individuals who very rarely attack. In any case, their venom is 50% less powerful than a honey bee sting, so you can tell their hearts aren’t really in it. These charming creatures are some of the most important pollinators on earth. The very least we can do is to give them a helping hand. l
OCTOBER
Got plants to overwinter but no greenhouse to put them in? With a little thought and care, many plants can survive in the great outdoors
Chill Factor W
hen it comes to overwintering potted patio plants, you’ll often hear the phrase, “place them in a frost-free greenhouse” casually chucked about. That’s all very well, but what if you don’t have a greenhouse? Fear not, many plants are far tougher than we give them credit for. Extreme weather will see off the strongest specimens but most plants are killed by us; we overwater and we overfeed. When a plant is in a dormant state, it only requires a little moisture at its roots - and it certainly doesn’t need any food. If you feed now and the weather turns mild, the plant will be encouraged into re-growth. New shoots are tender and unable to withstand frost, so when the temperature finally plunges, the new growth dies. This gives the plant an enormous shock,
which can prove fatal. A cold frame is a fantastically useful bit of gardening kit. If you don’t have one, a polite letter to Father Christmas might do the trick? As the name suggests, a cold frame is a glazed, unheated structure with opening lid panels for ventilation on warmer days. They vary in design and size but can usually accommodate plants up to about 50 cms high. Place larger plants in a bright and sheltered part of the garden. The base of a wall is a good place. Walls create ‘rain shadows’, which gives some protection, even from the most torrential rain. Positioning several plants together creates a micro-climate where the temperature will be slightly warmer than in an open space. It may not seem like much but a couple of degrees can make all the difference.
It’s tempting to cut back old stems, but leave them on as they will help insulate the plant. Only remove material that is decayed and likely to spread mould spores. Cover the compost surface with a thin layer of horticultural grit - this assists drainage and protects compost and plant roots from becoming waterlogged. Lightweight horticultural fleece is cheap and reusable. Drape it over plants when extreme weather is forecast, or use it to wrap around the
Most plants are killed by us we overwater and we overfeed outside of favourite pots to prevent them cracking. Old net curtains work well too - although you might get a few odd looks from your neighbours! Many plants can be overwintered in this way. Bedding geraniums need a cosy windowsill to survive, but pots of herbaceous geraniums, along with lavenders, hardy fuchsias and salvias, hebes, shrubby herbs and ornamental grasses are usually tough enough to cope outdoors. Potted primulas and border auriculas are practically indestructible, even in the harshest winters. Agapanthus has huge, fleshy roots that quickly rot when waterlogged. Keep them snug and dry-ish and they will repay you next summer with their astonishing, mesmerising blooms. l SUSSEX LIVING 11
NOVEMBER
time for
Trees With their stately and permanent qualities, trees enhance a garden in ways that no other plants can and November is the perfect time to plant one
‘V
ertical space’ is a muchoverlooked topic of garden design. We have a tendency to cram our borders with hummocky perennials that grow 50cms tall, whilst paying no regard to the available space and design potential above. Trees add impact to any planting scheme and there is a tree for every situation, even in the tiniest garden. At this time of year, crab apples, (Malus) and mountain ash, (Sorbus) come into their own with their brilliant foliage. Varieties of Elder, (Sambucus) also have much to offer. My favourite is Black Lace, with its dark purple, acerlike leaves. Usefully, unlike the acer family, it is happy in full sun. Acers, of course, are famous for their autumnal foliage and some varieties also display colourful stems and bark throughout the winter, as do many of the ornamental cherries, (Prunus). If space is really limited, choose a tree with a weeping form - they are naturally less vigorous. Trees grown in containers can look spectacular, but remember; a containerised plant is the horticultural equivalent of a pet - it relies on you for nourishment, so be vigilant. Soilbased compost is preferable to peatbased potting compost; it’ll hold on to nutrients for longer and is much heavier than potting compost, so your container is less likely to topple over in windy weather. If your pots are 12 SUSSEX LIVING
sited in really permanent positions, cut their bases off and stand them directly on the soil. The tree roots will migrate down through the pot and anchor themselves into the open ground, making them more stable and self-sufficient, whilst still retaining the potted appearance. If you don’t have the room for even
There is a tree for every situation, even in the tiniest garden the smallest tree, consider planting some vigorous multi-stemmed shrubs. Varieties of Viburnum, Cotinus, Photinia and Cornus give vertical treelike accents and can be easily pruned
to size if they outgrow their allotted spaces. Elaeagnus maculata looks good all year round and has smart two-tone leaves of rich green with a lime stripe. Fuchsia magellanica has purple and scarlet flowers and is often used as landscaping in car parks, (although why people think it’s a good idea to put plants in car parks I’ll never know - oh, don’t get me started!). It’s a testament to this particular fuchsia that it copes with having its roots constricted under tarmac, a regular dousing with grit and salt spray during winter and also survives being reversed over by annoyed drivers as they curse the ridiculous notion of putting a flower bed in a car park. But I digress … The ‘Alba’ form of magellanica has the palest pink blooms imaginable. Some call the colour “delicate”, others say “wishy-washy” - you decide, but there’s no doubt it’s a hard-working, no-nonsense plant that deserves your consideration. l
DECEMBER
Feast Your Eyes A simple arrangement of fresh flowers will always bring cheer – and a little bit of fakery can help too
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here’s nothing nicer than a floral arrangement to lift the winter gloom and if you supplement shop-bought flowers with foraged material from your garden, it won’t cost the earth either. Be sure to condition your materials before arranging. Remove the bottom third of foliage, cut a few centimetres off the stems, then stand your flowers in deep water overnight to enable them to take up plenty of moisture. In a warm environment, bacteria can quickly build up in the vase water. A teaspoon, (no more!) of bleach added to the water will deter bacteria and prolong the life of your arrangement. For a classic Christmas combination that’s hard to beat, arrange deep red carnations with evergreen foliage. Spray chrysanthemums are back in vogue and rightly so. They last for ages in a vase and come in warm wintery shades. Mix them with golden foliage to make their colours glow. Long-stemmed white freesias look elegant and smell divine. Add silver fir and white hypericum berries for a cool, sophisticated arrangement.
Faux fruits and berries can be confidently deployed with the happy knowledge that they won’t turn into a messy pulp I’m a recent convert to artificial flowers. Gone are the waxy plastic monstrosities of the past - artificial blooms are so cleverly made nowadays. I often use a combination of real materials mixed in with artificial elements - there are advantages to doing this. Faux fruits and berries can be confidently deployed with the happy knowledge that they won’t turn into a messy pulp and damage furnishings. Real amaryllis and hellebore flowers are expensive and often hard to find. Good quality
artificial versions aren’t cheap either, but will last for years, assuming the cat doesn’t wage war on your decorations. Speaking of cats - they are seriously allergic to lily pollen. Silk lilies arranged with natural foliage will solve the problem. They look (almost!) as good as the real thing. Also, not everyone enjoys lily’s heady fragrance - another reason why faux flowers can sometimes be a good choice. Zero flower arranging skills? Float some pansy flowers, ivy leaves and tealights in a shallow dish of water to make a perfect table centrepiece in less than 5 minutes! If you have a real Christmas tree, its care requirements are much the same as for flowers. Freshly-cut trees have plump needles and springy branches. A tree that appears dry or is shedding large quantities of needles should be avoided - however temptingly cheap. Saw 5 - 10 cms off the trunk and stand the tree in a bucket of cool water for 24 hours before bringing indoors and securing in a container - ideally a purpose-made stand that has a reservoir for water. Position the tree away from direct heat, check the water reservoir daily and your tree will survive the festive period - felines permitting. l
SUSSEX LIVING 13
JANUARY
THINK
Houseplants Post-Christmas gloom? Brighten up your home with houseplants, says Flo Whitaker
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ow is the perfect time to rescue those neglected houseplants that you pushed into dark corners during the Christmas upheaval. January brings a welcome increase in daylight hours which will trigger plants into growth - but they cannot flourish with dusty foliage. Plants with large, shiny leaves can be washed using cotton wool balls dipped in cool water. Support each leaf underneath with one hand while using the other to gently wipe the leaf surface. Smaller-leaved plants will enjoy a
Aspidistra isn’t known as the ‘Cast Iron Plant’ for nothing and will survive in places where other plants fail lukewarm shower. Secure the pot tightly inside a plastic bag to prevent water flooding the compost, stand the plant under the gentlest shower setting for a minute, then allow to ‘drip dry’. Furry-leaved plants hate getting their foliage wet - water droplets become trapped in the hairs, causing leaves to rot. They can be gently cleaned using a soft brush, (a cosmetic blusher-type brush is ideal.) Most of our houseplants hail from tropical climes and take a rest during winter. Don’t be tempted to repot or feed them until they are in full, active growth in March-April. Houseplant problems can often be attributed to the wrong location. A windowsill 14 SUSSEX LIVING
that was warm and sunny in July may be cool and shady in November, so take note of the seasons and move your plants around to suit their needs. They can suffer badly from fluctuating temperatures, especially in winter. Plants trapped behind closed curtains have to contend with chilly glass that becomes even colder when the central heating goes off - remove plants from your windowsills before drawing the curtains! Sun-worshippers such as Musa, (banana), Aloe, Pelargonium and Kalenchoe enjoy a brightly-lit location in full sunshine, whereas Begonia rex, African Violet, Monstera, (Cheese plant) and the majority of the fern family are shadier characters who thrive when positioned away from intense light. Say ‘cacti’ and we immediately think of scorching heat, but deserts can be severely cold places. Some cacti and succulents will happily overwinter in a cool porch or conservatory, so long as the temperature doesn’t drop below 5°C. Draughty hallways and landings are challenging environments for plants. Asplenium, with its thick, waxy fronds will probably cope, as will the Asparagus fern, along with almostindestructible ivies that
usefully come in many varieties with different leaf shapes and colours. The handsome Aspidistra isn’t known as the ‘Cast Iron Plant’ for nothing and will survive in places where other plants fail. Once an essential feature in Victorian parlours, they positively thrived in the noxious air caused by coal fires and gas lamps. However, be warned; Aspidistra owners are in it for the long haul. Spectacularly long-lived, some plants have been bequeathed in wills. It’s the horticultural equivalent of inheriting a parrot or tortoise - your Aspidistra will probably outlive you! l
FEBRUARY
Ready, Steady, SOW! Get off to a flying start by sowing some early veg now!
M
arch is a notoriously fickle month, weather-wise, but many vegetable seedlings are surprisingly robust and can be sown now. However, in cold, miserable soil, seeds often rot before they get the chance to germinate and seedlings struggle to survive, so it pays to thoroughly prepare the sowing area beforehand. Gently fork over the soil surface, break up any large clods of soil and remove all
weeds. Then rake the soil, going back and forth until the surface is level and the soil has a crumbly texture. Next, firm the soil gently, rake again and position a cloche or horticultural fleece over the area for a fortnight before sowing your seeds. A ‘cloche’ is a portable cover used to protect plants and can also be usefully employed to pre-warm soil. They come in different styles (and prices!) but a basic cloche can be obtained for a tenner and is a good investment.
Strong, superlight horticultural fleece has good thermal properties and can be used flat to cover soil, or gently draped over vulnerable plants when frost is forecast. As the soil temperature rises under the protective cover, dormant weed seeds will start to germinate, allowing you to remove them before you sow. For indoor sowings, prewarm your bags of compost by storing them in a frost-free shed or greenhouse for a week or so before using. This may all sound like unnecessary faff and fiddle, but it will really make a difference; helping those delicate seedlings to become tough, stronggrowing plants.
‘Humble’ mustard and cress surely wins the award for the quickest and cheapest homegrown crop possible
Once you’ve prepared the soil, broad beans, peas, carrots, beetroot, spinach, onions and garlic can be direct-sown outdoors. A mild frost won’t kill them off, but it will give them a severe shock, so be ready with the cloche or protective fleece - just in case the weather turns nasty. Frost-tender tomatoes, sweet peppers, chillies, aubergines and cucumbers need the indoor protection of a greenhouse, propagator or a bright windowsill. Aubergines are easy to grow, but, like cantankerous maiden aunts, they are prickly by nature and sulk if they’re left in a draught, so keep them warm and cosy. Sown in the greenhouse, cutand-come-again lettuce seed will swiftly produce some welcome salad leaves - and don’t forget ‘humble’ mustard and cress, which surely wins the award for the quickest and cheapest home-grown crop possible. If you enjoy watercress, try growing your own. The seed germinates very easily. When treated like cut-and-come-again salad, watercress produces tasty leaves for several months - so long as it’s grown away from strong sunshine/direct heat and can paddle in wringing wet compost. If you’re guilty of overwatering pot plants, (aren’t we all?) then watercress may be the crop for you! l SUSSEX LIVING 15
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