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Swedish Press N Y A
S V E N S K A
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Gotland – Island of Hidden Treasures
P R E S S E N
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April 2020 Vol 91:03 $5.95
03 2020
Medeltidsveckan Gotland History Interview with Håkan Loob Almedalen
Gotland Goes
edieval
By Marcus Andersson very year, a quiet island town off the coast of Sweden teleports back in time, rewinding from the present to the 1300s. Medieval tents are pitched over grassy expanses, and everyday people dress in the fashion of their ancestors. This summer, 40,000 guests will gather to experience what life was like when Sweden became a nation, spending an entire week in an escapist world outside of modern life. Medeltidsveckan (Medieval Week) is the largest medieval event in Scandinavia, and the most attended event on Gotland. It happens on the same week every year, and keeps drawing new visitors to its unique milieu. The festival takes place in the ancient town of Visby, whose settlement dates back to the 900s. During my interview with event spokesperson Susanne de Paulis, she provided a brief overview of the history of the site, discussing some of the pivotal moments that changed the course of its development. In 1288, de Paulis explains, “there was a civic war between the city merchants and the historically very rich and powerful Gotlandic people.” The inhabitants of Visby won the war due to their membership of the Hanseatic League, an alliance of mercantile towns spanning from central to northwestern Europe. Later, in 1361, she continues, “the
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Danish king Valdemar Atterdag conquered Gotland, killing more than half the male population on the island, but sparing Visby and thereby cementing the differences between the City and the Countryside. When Valdemar won the Battle of Visby, this marked the downfall of Gotland, from which it did not really recover until the late 18th century.” Despite the wars, Visby’s town wall still stands tall, and several church ruins can be found in the city. Visby is such an exceptional example of medieval architecture that, in 1995, the town was added to the UNESCO World Heritage site list. Surrounded daily by the echoes of the past, Gotlandic history enthusiasts wanted to create an event to educate other inhabitants about the time that came before them. So, in 1984, a group of like-minded leaders created the first Medieval Week in an inspirationally DIY fashion. They sought resources like textiles for costumes from local shops and second-hand stores, encouraging as many as possible to dress in period attire. The spirit of re-enactment and immersion that started over thirty years ago grew into a marketing tool for the festival in years to come. “A decade later, the subculture of role players, ‘larpers’ (live action role playing) and re-enactors had established themselves as an important target group. Serendipity, as it turns out, because this group of enthusiasts is now one of our main destinations for tourists and families with children,” explains de Paulis. What started as an event for locals quickly expanded to attract a much wider and diverse audience. On the festival website, the organization includes a demographic breakdown, showing that 79 percent of visitors are returning customers, and 53 percent are women. Although the
majority of attendees are in their 30s, all age groups are welcome, from toddlers to people well above 80. Most participants enjoy the week in groups of 3 – 4, which suggests a family-centered or friend-group-based crowd. While most Medeltidsveckan fans are Swedish, as of 2014 five percent of visitors (2000 guests) travel from abroad, mostly from Germany and the Nordic countries. And people have started traveling from further reaches of the world. “We have up to 20 nationalities in our group of around 70 volunteers, and we know that we have visitors from all corners of the world: Australia, Japan, USA, Russia, and so forth,” says de Paulis. Furthermore, a newly constructed cruise line port in Visby is expected to draw in even more foreign guests in years to come. Clearly, the organization is doing something right, as 8 out of 10 visitors return annually. The program includes a variety of activities for a complete medieval experience. Guests can attend theatrical performances, live music, and fire shows, all offered free of charge. In total, there are 500 events available to festival-goers during their stay in Visby. One of the most popular attractions is the jousting event, in which actors clad in knight’s armor spar on horseback. Another major event is the marketplace, which sells replicas of medieval merchandise. And, finally, The Battle of Wisby Project aims to recreate the battles of Mästerby and Visby, giving voice across the centuries to those who fell in battle. In the words of de Paulis, “At the same time, we wish to highlight the historical trauma that these events became for the locals.” Medieval Week began as a DIY project and has continued in that spirit, relying on its own revenue instead of
depending on outside investors. A very minimal percentage of its budget is a contribution from the Municipality of Gotland, which provides 8 percent of the festival income. Though the organization has been involved in a variety of projects funded by EU and SIDA, it does not receive any cultural funding from the government. Each year, visitors spend 206 million kronor during the week, making it a significant asset for the Gotlandic economy. This summer, Medieval Week will open its gates again, sending people from 2020 back nearly a thousand years. The festival has high hopes for the future, constantly seeking new ways to improve and become more environmentally friendly. De Paulis takes this commitment seriously: “We are changing and adapting every year, trying to make our environmental footprint smaller and smaller, as well as making the festival more secure, more equal and more attractive. It is already regarded as very secure with less than 1 reported offence to the police per year. This at a festival with 40,000 persons over 8 days with a lot of parties going on!” The festival also wants to attract new customers, like “festival visitors” – a category which was recently added to the organization’s target groups – by offering festival camping and an emphasis on interesting musical acts. 2023 will mark the 40th anniversary, which is a massive accomplishment for an independently funded and run festival. Medieval Week in Visby is a fascinating example of local initiative and passion for history evolving into an enterprise that benefits Sweden’s economy and culture. www.medeltidsveckan.se/en/ All photos: Medeltidsveckan på Gotland AB
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H ERITAG E
Gotland Through The Ages By Peter Berlin
G
otland is Sweden’s largest island, stuck far out in the Baltic Sea between the Swedish mainland and the Baltic States. It is therefore not surprising that its history differs in many aspects from that of the rest of Sweden. Because of the geographical isolation, the local dialect has evolved independently from “the King’s Swedish,” to the point where it is almost incomprehensible to mainland Swedes. On page 12 our contributor Marcus Andersson provides a snapshot of the island’s history, while Yvonne Gossner offers an insight into the dialect as well as the relaxed mindset of the Gotlanders on page 11. A somewhat different take on the early history of Gotland is found in the Gutasagan, a myth written in the Gutnish (i.e. Gotland-ish) dialect of Old Norse around 1350 and preserved in the Swedish National Library in Stockholm. Tjelvar, the discoverer of Gotland, had a son named Havde whose wife was called Vitastjerna. After their first night together, Vitastjerna dreamed that she would give birth to three sons, and that is
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The medieval city wall of Visby on the island of Gotland, viewed from north. Watercoloured drawing by Lars Cedergren, from 1816-1830. © The Collection of drawings, watercolours and prints, Archives of the Swedish National Heritage Board
precisely what happened. They were given the very Nordic-sounding names Graip, Gute and Gunfjaun. The myth goes on. The three sons and their descendants multiplied to the point where Gotland became seriously overpopulated. One in three inhabitants was deported from the island. Some of the deportees were wealthy, having done some traveling and trading in faraway lands. Assuming that they would be allowed back to Gotland someday, they buried their treasures in the ground before departing. Fast forward to 1999. Abandoned treasures are regularly unearthed on Gotland, a fact which gives some credence to the Gutasagan. Treasure hunting using metal detectors is prohibited, to prevent looting of
archaeological treasures such as those ostensibly buried by the above-mentioned deportees. The exception is whatever a landowner might detect on his own property. Ironically, during the recording of a documentary about illegal search for treasures for the Swedish TV4
Spillingsskatten (the Spillings Hoard) of ancient silver found on Gotland. Photo © The Gotland Museum
H E RI TAG E television channel, two accompanying professors waited until the end of the filming and the departure of the crew. They set off with metal detectors and stumbled on what was to become known as Spillingsskatten (the Spillings Hoard) of ancient silver. The treasure consisted of some 14,000 coins mostly from Islamic countries, along with a wealth of bronze artefacts and numerous everyday objects such as nails, glass beads, parts of tools, pottery, iron bands and clasps. Given its proximity to the former Soviet Union, it is perhaps not surprising that Gotland has had a taste of the Cold War. In 1952, a DC-3 military transport plane of the Swedish Air Force was patrolling the waters some distance out from the east coast of Gotland. Suddenly all radio contact with the crew was broken, and the plane failed to return to home base. Three days later the Swedish Air Force sent a Catalina sea plane to look for the vanished DC-3 and its crew. Literally out of the blue, it was attacked and brought down by a Soviet MiG-15 fighter aircraft. The crippled plane somersaulted on touchdown in the water; the five crew members survived and were picked up by a passing German freighter. Back in Sweden, the news media stoked up fury among the general public directed against the Soviets who were suspected of having brought down the two neutral aircraft for no apparent
Hanseatic Town of Visby, Gotland.
reason. Well, as it later turned out, both were in fact on assignment on behalf of NATO to eavesdrop on Soviet military radio communications, in clear contravention of Sweden’s proclaimed neutrality. The DC-3 was discovered on the sea floor in 1999 and was recovered in 2003. Close examination of the wreckage indicated that it, too, had been shot down by a Soviet MiG-15. It is now on display at the Air Force Museum in Linköping. The city of Visby is the urban centre of Gotland. Wandering along its narrow, cobblestone streets between quaint little houses creates the sensation of being transplanted to Medieval times. Ruins of ancient churches serve as a reminder of past invasions by a motley collection of Danish kings, Teutonic knights and Baltic pirates. Most of the city is surrounded by a massive stone wall punctuated by watch towers. In between attacks by hostile powers, Visby thrived as
an important trading hub within the Hanseatic League – the Medieval precursor of today’s European Union. In 1999, Visby was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The legendary film-maker Ingmar Bergman settled down on Gotland – or, more accurately, on the small island of Fårö at the northern tip of Gotland. Some of his most memorable films were set there, among them Through a Glass Darkly (1961), Persona (1966), Hour of the Wolf (1968), Shame (1968), The Passion of Anna (1969), and Scenes from a Marriage (1972). Fårö is also where he died in 2007 aged 89. No story about Gotland would be complete without mentioning the annual Almedalen Week, the Medieval Week and the Gotland Museum. Happily, these remarkable institutions are covered in turn by Jakob Lagercrantz on page 26, Marcus Andersson on page 12, and Sofie Kinnefors on page 14.
Limestone monoliths. Photo: Lucas Günther/ imagebank.sweden.se Graphics: Region Gotland.
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[Lifestyle]
Top Sju
1 April 1 marks April Fool’s Day – a day to watch out for hoaxes, fake news and practical jokes. The Swedish custom of “Narra April” dates back to the mid-1600s. During the 1900s, however, the media started making fun of themselves, politicians and new technology. A classic April fool’s joke Swedes might remember was on April 1, 1962 when SVT’s technical expert Kjell Stensson advised people to cut a nylon stocking and place it in front of their television screens to experience modern color TV. At the time, television broadcasts were in black and white, and it would take another seven years before color television became available in Sweden.
15 Celebrate Easter at Stockholm’s open-air museum Skansen on April 4 – 13! Children and adults alike are invited to take part in fun filled activities, such as making Easter decorations, pony riding and hotdog barbeque. Visitors may also visit the outdoor museum’s many houses and farms to see what Easter traditions
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Parry and Gustav Holst, as well as German composer Felix Mendelssohn. Guests include both former conductors and singers.
Tre påskkärringar på Skansen. Marie Andersson/Skansen
looked like back in the old days, listen to stories, or talk about hens, chickens and eggs. On Maundy Thursday youths (up to 15 years old) dressed as Easter witches (påskkärringar) or Easter geezers (påskgubbar) enjoy free admission to the museum. For more information see www skansen.se.
55 Adolf Fredriks Gosskör (Adolf Fredrik’s Boys Choir), founded in 1965 by Swedish composer, pianist, conductor and music educator Åke Hillerud, turns 55 this year. A celebratory concert in honor of the choir’s anniversary is scheduled in Adolf Fredriks Kyrka on April 24. During the 90-minute performance, Adolf Fredriks Gosskör will perform favorites from their rich repertoire throughout the decades, featuring music by English composers Sir Charles Hubert Hastings
350,000 Swedish furniture company IKEA is investing SEK 1.7 billion ($175m) in four new mini-department stores in the Stockholm area. The new department stores, planned to open in approximately five years, will be smaller than the classic IKEA superstores. The exact location of the new stores is still unclear, but the goal is to make IKEA accessible to an additional 350,000 Stockholm residents. IKEA plans to hire 500 new employees for their new stores. (Source: IKEA)
1022 According to a recent survey by Sifo (Swedish Institute for Opinion Surveys) on behalf of Viktväktarna (Weight Watchers), where 1022 people aged 16-79 were interviewed, more than three in four Swedes worry about their health. When asked what they believed to be most important for improving one’s own health, most –
both men and women – responded that it is to exercise more.
2 Enjoy your popcorn – guilt-free! Not only does popcorn taste good, but it is also considered healthy. According to Hjärt-Lungfonden (Swedish Heart and Lung Foundation), popcorn contains whole grains, lots of fiber and healthy vitamins. Whole grains can reduce the risk of type 2 diabetes and cardiovascular disease, and also help maintain body weight.
44 Swedish hiking event Linnémarschen takes place on the weekend of April 25 – 26 in Borås. During the 44th edition of Linnémarschen, participants are invited to hike in the beautiful nature reserve Rya Åsar, which was visited by Carl von Linné in 1746. Inexperienced and experienced hikers alike are encouraged to sign up for the classic event which offers courses for everyone, including an accessibility route of 3 km and a 2-day hike of 57 km. For more information, see www.linnemarschen.se.
[Lifestyle] Music Swedish Church Brass Band Takes the World By Storm
L
inköping Brass Band – or “Brasset” for short – is affiliated with the Ryttargårdskyrkan in Linköping, Sweden. The Ryttargårdskyrkan belongs to the Swedish Evangelical Freechurch, InterAct. The band has about 30 – 35 members aged between 13 and 73. The band maintains a very high musical standard, and many people think it is one of the better church bands in Sweden. The music they play is inspired by Salvation Army marches, old Swedish folk songs and musicals. The band also includes a male choir under the leadership of music director Sten Bäckman. To celebrate its 30th anniversary, the band undertook a tour of the USA at Eastertime in 1990. The band performed in New York, Chicago,
Linköping Brass Band. Photos: Carolina Byrmo
Waukegan, Rockford, Minneapolis, Duluth, Cambridge, St. Paul, Washington DC and Toronto, Canada. In addition to concerts in different churches they also played at the UN in New York. In Washington DC the band performed on the east step outside The Capitol. In Canada they participated in a television program from coast to coast together with Dr. Paul Smith and his People’s Church in Toronto. In 1996 the band did another big tour, this time to Asia. The band first visited Hong Kong and then Japan – Nishinomiya, Kobe, Sakai, Nagaya
and Tokyo. The band also gave a concert at the Swedish Embassy in Tokyo and at various universities. Moreover, the band has done some shorter concert trips to France, Germany, Estonia and Norway. Fast forward to 2005 when the band did the next big tour to Australia and New Zealand. The band first performed in Sydney, followed by Canberra, Melbourne, Auckland (New Zealand), then back to Brisbane, Gladstone and Cairns. Around Easter in 2020 the band intended to celebrate its 60th anniversary with an extensive trip to the USA and Canada. The band’s plan was to start in Seattle and later go on to Vancouver, San Francisco and Palo Alto, Unfortunately, because of the coronavirus and the attendant US travel ban on European nationals, the concert tour has had to be postponed until this fall or next spring. That said, do keep your eyes and mind open for schedule updates!
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