Swiss Made Magazine SPRING 2010 by Max Pantieri

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Dear Readers, Welcome to a new colourful spring season and that exciting feeling of new things to come. We have always shared a love for the excellence of Swiss craftsmanship and this issue is no exception. For the first several millennia of human existence, our conception of time was rather abstract, based on the cycles of the sun and seasons but little else. Modern man, however, shares a much more intimate relationship with time, the commodity that has emerged as the most precious in our lives. In order to measure it, we invented the timepiece. In order to meet it, the automobile. One of the most important innovation of all time and born as a foundumental instrument for measuring time, the watch quickly become a symbol of power and therefore, a status symbol. Because of their high complications, until the beginning of the century watches were only accessible to a very prestigious clientele, royalties and aristocrats. Masters watchmakers like Abraham-Louis Breguet in the 17th century, were mandated by the royal families to develop the most complicated timepieces and unique work of art, real wonders of incredible craftsmanship. A strong passion and a true spirit of innovation were the driving force behind the legendary names in the watchmaking realm. The same passion and innovative approach is still the driving force of today’s Swiss Master watchmakers that preserve the preciousness of over 300 years of heritage, tradition and craftsmanship.

Through the centuries, the symbolism of a watch has evolved from timekeeping instrument into a subtle way of expressing one’s own personality. A fine timepiece can convey an air of refinement and exquisite taste, as much as the brand of clothing or the jewelry selected. As the definitive luxury item, the watch presents the owner with not only a sense of self worth, but inevitably boosting the self-confidence. Choosing or buying a watch is a very emotional process. Names and brands are no more the main criteria in this difficult selection. More elements comes into account, such as the history of the brand, its exclusivity or rarity, its appeal and association with one’s own personal interest and lifestyle. Whether you are buying a car, a watch, a jewel or an artwork, you want to be reassured that your investment has solid grounds, and what stronger ground than a pedigree of excellence? In every issue, through watches, travel, cars, art, design, gourmet and more, we strive to bring emotions and share with you this magnificent world of complications, traditions, passions, luxury and excellence. Enjoy your reading! Massimiliano Pantieri

Staff Editor Massimiliano Pantieri Creative Art Director Sherry Williams International Watch Editor Keith W. Strandberg Graphic Designer Marco Gonzalez Sherry Williams Office Operations Manager Mara Carboni Photographers Denis Hayoun - Elements Begga Bachmann - Gourmet Cover VOLNA by Denis Hayoun

Contributors Keith W. Strandberg Noah Joseph Claudia Laffranchi Sherry Williams Marco Gonzalez Begga Bachmann Christopher Zimmerman

Editorial office Swiss Made Magazine Via Taiada 50 6517 Arbedo (TI) Switzerland Contacts editor@swissmademagazine.com advertising@swissmademagazine.com

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All the published material has been provided by the mentioned brands. Therefore, Swiss Made Magazine cannot be held responsible for copyright issues and assumes no responsibility on inaccurate information or changes in the products or prices displayed. Copyright by Swiss Made Magazine. Reproduction or use of the content in whole or in part without the written permission of the editor is strictly prohibited.

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editorial 5

sm index

32 74 40

96 96

72 DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Auctions 12 Sotheby’s

Portrait 16 CARL F. BUCHERER

Innovations 22 Breguet’s new balance spring

Haute Horlogerie 24 The finest timepieces of 2010

Cover story 32 VOLNA - Chronograph Typhoon Siberia

Cars 34 The Green Revolution

Art 40 KUNSTHAUS Zürich 96 Events & Exhibitions

Craftsmanship 44 The Art of Enamel

Photography 48 ELEMENTS by Denis Hayoun

Haute Joaillerie 64 Timeless Beauty 68 Architectural Beauty

Red Carpet 70 Awards Season

Design 74 FunLux - Swiss Designers

Gourmet 80 Taste, Grace and the Man inside

Watches 84 Selection of Spring Novelties

Prestige 90 ROLEX Daytona Sport Series

Real Estate 94 rockresort in Laax

INDEX 7

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sm news

SWISS MADE & SWISSNESS The FH and the Swissness Project for a strong Swiss Made

By publishing its Swissness message in November, the Federal Council clearly expressed its determination to strengthen Swiss Made for all sectors of the Swiss economy, including watchmaking. We have already had occasion to state our views in no uncertain terms: in a watch industry context, the credibility of Swiss Made among consumers the world over calls for a drastic buttressing of the label’s definition. Current legislation actually encourages fraud and leads to an insidious dilution of the indication which is damaging for the image of genuine Swiss products. An indication of origin must be used in accordance with how it is perceived by interested parties, namely companies within the industry and consumers. Now the very great majority of Swiss watchmaking firms condemn the weakness of Swiss made in its present guise. Consumers meanwhile feel that they are misled – as proven by recent studies – when they learn that certain watches bearing the Swiss made mark have relatively little of Swiss value in their composition. The Swissness project introduces new conditions to ensure that every industrial product manufactured in Switzerland can legitimately call itself Swiss made: at least 60% of the cost price (including research and development costs) must be realised in Switzerland and the activity that gave the product its essential characteristics must be carried out in Switzerland. There are also plans for every economic sector to specify and supplement these criteria in a sector-wide ordinance. In fact, the FH has already submitted a project of this nature to the Federal Council, following its 2007 general meeting where it was approved by a very large majority. The latter is of the opinion however that formally, Swissness should be carried through to its conclusion before finalisation of the FH project. A number of firms fear that a stronger Swiss Made could bring about job losses, insofar as some watches will no longer have access to this designation. What is certain, in contrast, is the relocation of production facilities once Swiss made has lost all value in the eyes of consumers. Moreover, some firms intend to repatriate part of their production or procurement to Switzerland in order to benefit from a strong Swiss Made. In addition, contrary to current legislation, Swissness will encourage research and development activity in Switzerland by allowing these costs to be included in the calculation of Swiss value. All of these outcomes will be favourable to employment in Switzerland. Swissness also introduces new instruments allowing more effective protection of Swiss made abroad. Indeed it will be possible to enter this label in the public register of geographical indications. Such registration will provide official recognition, making it easier to import products into countries where this type of instrument is used (India and Mexico in particular). Swissness will also authorise registration in Switzerland of the Swiss Made mark with a view to benefiting from the international registration system. Swiss made will therefore be easier to register as a Certification Mark, the only plausible means of ensuring effective protection in Anglo-Saxon countries. Lastly, Swissness will authorise the more widespread use of Swiss flag on Swiss products. While it is difficult terrain to negotiate, we are convinced of the need for lobbying on the part of firms. This fully justifies the support given by the FH to the Swissness project, which will shortly be debated in Parliament. (message from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry - www.fhs.ch)

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Swiss Made Overview The wording was formally adopted in the late 19th century and is unique in that most other countries use the phrase “Made in (Country Name)”. The most obvious place where the label is found is on Swiss watches. The Swiss laws permit the use of the words «Suisse», «produit suisse», «fabriqué en Suisse», «qualité suisse» or the translations, “Swiss”, “Swiss Made”, or “Swiss Movement”. On some older watches, for example, the word “Swiss” appears alone on the dial at the six o’clock position. There are two discrete sections of the Swiss law that pertain to the use of the name Swiss Made. The first law, which applies to all types of Swiss products, is the Loi sur la protection des marques (LPM). The LPM at Article 50 provided the authority for the enactment of the second law, Ordonnance du 23 décembre 1971 réglant l’utilisation du nom «Suisse» pour les montres, relating specifically Swiss watches. The text of either law is available in French, German or Italian, since those are the official languages of Switzerland. Swiss law Currently the aforementioned Swiss legal standards permit watch brands or watchmakers to label watches Swiss Made under certain legally defined circumstances. These standards have changed over time and were not always codified in the national law, so older watches which bear the mark Swiss Made may not necessarily meet the current legal definition. On the other hand they might well exceed the current legal definition of Swiss made. Indeed, the current law of the applicability of Swiss Made was codified on December 23, 1971. The Use of the Name Swiss on Watches The law “Ordonnance réglant l’utilisation du nom «Suisse» pour les montres” (Ordinance regulating the use of the name “Swiss” on watches) first defines a “watch” (as opposed to a clock) by the dimensions of its movement. Thereafter, the law defines a Swiss watch, which definition is dependent on the definition and/or certain aspects of its movement. The law then goes on to define under what circumstances a watch movement may be considered Swiss Made. The law also sets forth the conditions for the use of the name Swiss on watches, on watch cases, on watch movements, on watch dials and on replacement watch parts. A Swiss Watch In sum, a watch is considered Swiss whose movement is Swiss, whose movement is encased in Switzerland and whose final control by the manufacturer takes place in Switzerland. References: www.fhs.ch www.admin.ch www.swissinfo.ch www.swissmadewatches.net http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_Made

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Behind the Scenes of Auctions With Sotheby’s Geoffroy Ader

By Keith W. Strandberg The auction market for timepieces in general is strong right now, in spite, or perhaps because of, the economy. Several auctions in 2009 had strong results (e.g. the September 2009 Antiquorum auction totaled $9,214,974, while Monaco’s Only Watch topped out at 2.3 million Euros). The auction market is still healthy and the outlook is that it will continue to strengthen. “The watch market is very mature,” Geoffroy Ader, Head of Watches for Sotheby’s European Division, says. “People know a lot about watches, they are talking about watches all the time and looking for the watches they want. It is a very lively market. There are the major players buying and selling, but there are a lot of new people coming in.” Ader started in the watch business in 1995, when the total market was between $40 - $50 million. “Now it is over $200 million,” Ader estimates. Ader organises timepiece auctions for Sotheby’s in Geneva, Switzerland, in May and November. “I travel all over the European region to source property, so most of the time I am on the road,” Ader explains. “A lot of people want to have evaluations and they want to see the person who is in charge.” Ader organises evaluation days and people bring their watches, usually not knowing what they are worth. “I have two little sons and I tell them that I am a treasure hunter,” he says with a smile. “I am going everywhere looking for treasure. Sometimes it’s disappointing, because you think you will find something wonderful, but it’s not worth anything.” Ader also visits clients with special watches who call his office asking for an evaluation. Ader carefully examines the watches and gives each watch an estimated price, and the clients decide whether to auction their timepiece. “The people who come in and say ‘I don’t think it’s worth anything,’

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it’s usually worth a fortune,” Ader says. “The ones who come in and say ‘It’s the greatest watch,’ however, it’s usually worth nothing.” Unlike other auction goods, the most popular reason people want to sell their watches is that they want a change. They sell one of their current watches so they can buy something else, something different. ”If you look at other auctions, it’s very different -- in jewelry, for example, people want to sell because they have debts and they need the money,” details Ader. “Watch people want to change, because every year there are new models and exciting things going on. There are a lot of people who sell their watches to buy new ones or come to auctions because they can’t get them in the shops.” Some rare models, Ader explains, like the Rolex Daytona in steel, can’t be found in retail shops. The only place for people to buy them in through the auctions. One of Ader’s other specialties, in addition to hunting timepiece treasure, is assessing the value of the watches he is shown. “When I see a timepiece, I have a rough idea of the price, but then I have to do a lot of research,” he explains. “A modern wristwatch is easy to assess, but when

you have old pocket watches or old enamel watches, it’s more difficult. The value is based on condition – is the dial original? Is the movement running? What is the condition? The most important factor is whether or not everything is original. You might have bought a watch in 1945, then had it serviced and it was cleaned and oiled, and it would be worth less than a watch that was purchased and then put into a safe and never worn.” Using the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona as an example, Ader says that one with box and papers and in perfect condition might be worth 20% more than one that didn’t have the box and paper and was a little dinged up.

“A watch is something very personal,” he adds. “If it’s been worn by someone famous, it makes a difference. This year, we had a watch from Gandhi. If you could find a similar watch, it would probably be worth $1000, but it went for $2 million because it was Gandhi’s watch.” His most interesting find? “In 2010, I found the watch owned by King Ludwig II of Bavaria,” he remembers, smiling. “This was an amazing treasure that I found – it was in the collection of a client and it had the cross of St. George, which is from the Order of St. George of Bavaria on the back as well as an enamel seal of the Holy Virgin from the Marionplatz in Munich, and I wondered what the connection was. The Holy Virgin was the holy protection of the Knights of the Order of St. George, which led me to the discovery that the watch had belonged to King Ludwig II. The condition was stunning. The estimate was 35,000 chf and we sold it for 250,000 chf.” Ader really enjoys his job and loves hunting for timepiece treasure, which is good news for watch lovers all over the world.

AUCTIONS 13

The Fine Art of Collecting

An OBJECT OF TIME as an impressive eye-catching masterpiece in any surroundings... The VANGUARD bears testimony to the discerning taste of its proud owner. Even before it reveals its inner values the new masterpiece from the ateliers of BUBEN&ZORWEG documents the fact that a passionate lover of all that is special and beautiful has acquired an unusual piece. The Vanguard is available in two designs. The difference lies on the inside: the VANGUARD Collector has 45 TIME MOVER® modules and the VANGUARD Connoisseur has 18 TIME MOVER® modules and a humidor. They share the same level of craftsmanship with regard to their perfect execution. Selected valuable materials attest to the luxury of being able to choose the very best of everything: satin-matt macassar or attractively patterned walnut. Hand-sewn Italian leather and hand-polished stainless steel inlay work. All perfectly executed by master craftsmen. Its timeless language of shape makes this masterpiece from the House of BUBEN&ZORWEG an eye-catcher in any discerning ambience. Innovative technology combined with a high-security safe Its technology is equally as innovative and exclusive – from the latest generation of TIME MOVER® modules to the FINE TIMEPIECE that crowns the VANGUARD. The inconspicuous safe – which is also available as a stand-alone object – meets the requirements of security class VdS I (EU Standard). ...anyone owning items of value will want to afford them the best protection. All the more so when the solution is as attractive and efficient as the VANGUARD: the safe contains eight TIME MOVER® units for accommodating valuable automatic watches, whilst drawers provide protection for further watches and other precious items.

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

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SMART Simplicity

by Keith W. Strandberg

One of the things Thomas Morf, CEO, Carl F. Bucherer likes to say when referring to the watch industry is “There is no overtaking lane.” That has proven even more true during this time of economic crisis – many of the companies who tried to jump over steps on the watchmaking ladder have come crashing to earth, while Carl F. Bucherer continues to succeed, carefully, step by step, making all the right moves. Recent History Carl F. Bucherer came into existence in 2001, Morf at the helm, with the goal of becoming a serious player in the watchmaking industry. Owned by the Swiss Bucherer Group(and named after the found-

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er, Carl Friedrich Bucherer, who opened his first jewelry store on the Falkenplatz in Lucerne in 1919), Carl F. Bucherer was not designed to be a “house brand,” but to stand on its own, distributed in jewelry and watch stores throughout the world.

Coming up against the giants of the industry like Rolex, Patek Philippe and others with decades and in some cases centuries of history isn’t easy, but things worth doing rarely are. Luckily, the brand has the support and financial backing of the Bucherer Group to be able to do things right. “There is tradition within the name of Bucherer, which helps in marketing for us, but we don’t have the continuing history like Patek Philippe,” Morf explains. “I don’t think history is an essential part to succeed here in Switzerland. If you have history, it doesn’t hurt, but it’s not an absolute necessity, otherwise we would never have had success.” Carl F. Bucherer started with a collection of watches that featured movements from trusted suppliers,

“There is no short cut to the summit, you cannot just take an helicopter and fly to the summit. You have to climb there in order to be credible.”

but with a twist. Morf wanted to have watches that were different from others on the market, utilising what he called “useful complications.” One of the key watches that put the brand on the map is the Patravi TravelTec, a unique three timezone watch that was the brainchild of Morf, who traveled so much he needed a watch that could tell him the time in three countries at a glance. Carl F. Bucherer bought the movement, but the special module that powered the three timezone feature, the essence of the watch, was designed and made in-house. The Carl F. Bucherer Way Many companies create highly complicated watches, pushing the limits of watchmaking at the expense of ease of use and reliability. Morf is determined to do things differently and the brand calls this Smart SimPlexity.

“I think that the watch world is going in the wrong direction -- everything can be engineered to be complicated, but I think it’s not about being complicated, it’s about having a smart solution. “I call what we include in our watches functions, not complications,” he continues. “If you undergo an operation in a hospital and hear the word ‘complication,’ that’s not a good thing. Complicated is negatively loaded – instead, we want a given function and we are trying to find a smart solution to it. If we decide to do a minute repeater, we will try to find a smart, reliable solution. Why was Porsche always winning awards with the 911? It was efficient, smart engineering –that’s how they developed cars. That’s how we do our watches. I want to stay away from the most complicated watches, I don’t think it’s the right direction for Carl F. Bucherer.”

“This is our way of engineering,” Morf explains.

CARL F. BUCHERER 17

The Manufacture and the Movement From the start, Morf knew that eventually Carl F. Bucherer would need to do its own in-house movements. “We made the decision to do our own movement in 2004,” he says. “I believe that every genuine watch manufacture in a certain price range should master the ‘engine’ of the watch, they should master watchmaking. The end consumer at our price point deserves something with substance. “We are not going to manufacture quartz movements and we will still use ETA base movements, but at the top of pyramid we have our own movement,” Morf continues. “This separates the ‘wanna-bes’ from the real companies. Let’s say a client spends 15,000 chf for a Carl F. Bucherer watch, I want him to have a real watch.” There are easier ways to have unique movements than to go to the expense of manufacturing in-house, like buying from specialised movement manufacturers. Morf didn’t want to go that route, unwilling to depend on an outside supplier for the heart of his watches. Carl F. Bucherer introduced its first in-house movement, the CFB A1000, at the BaselWorld show in 2009, using it in one watch, and this year the brand introduces two more watches using the new movement, the Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve and the Patravi EvoTec BigDate. Any watch that uses the new manufacture movement is given the EvoTec designation, standing for “Evolution Technology.” “The EvoTec is becoming a family, using the CFB A1000 as the base movement,” says Thomas Morf, president, Carl F. Bucherer. “The PowerReserve was the most logical, first step for us, function-wise. We will come out with an integrated chronograph down the road, but that is the Champions League of watchmaking, and we are working on it.” The watch uses the same cushion shape as the DayDate, and adds a unique power reserve indication. The Patravi EvoTec BigDate marks the first time Carl F. Bucherer has used the new movement in a ladies’ model, a commitment to the growing segment of mechanical watches for ladies. The Future The future looks really bright for Carl F. Bucherer. The company has been very successful in all its markets around the world and, now, with the in-house movement and its own production facility, the company is poised for incredible, but controlled, growth. For Morf, the watch business is like climbing Mount Everest. “There is no shortcut to the summit,” says Morf. “You cannot just take a helicopter and fly to the summit, you have to climb there in order to be credible. The hard road, the high road, is the right road, for longevity. Sure, you can succeed for a year or two with trendy, design only watches, but to stay for the long term, which is Carl F. Bucherer’s goal and its mandate from the parent company, you have to have substance.” Without a doubt, Carl F. Bucherer has substance.

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Being aware of one’s HERITAGE also means cultivating traditions that lay the foundation for a prosperous FUTURE. It is with this knowledge that we have proved a reliable SWISS partner in PRIVATE BANKING. Since 1755.

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w w w . c l a r i d e n l e u . c o m

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BASELWORLD the leading show With over 100’000 visitors attendinging from all over the globe, BASELWORLD marks the most important event of the year for the industry: the World Watch and Jewellery Show will be opening its doors for the 38th time in Basel from March 18 - 25, 2010. Given that the economic setting is still posing challenges, it is all the more important for exhibitors and also the specialist buyers to be able to rely on proven values: it is only in Basel that the “Who’s who” of the global watch and jewellery industry all meet up to experience the innovations, new products and trends for some 2000 brands and engage in successful business transactions. The fact that the industry is now concentrating on BASELWORLD has strengthened the show still further. And, this time round, www.baselworld.com is offering a comprehensive industry-news platform, which is up and running already, aimed at manufacturers, specialist dealers, journalists and final consumers. The objective resolutely pursued by the show management in the past, of only presenting the most important, strongest and best brands at BASELWORLD, has paid off especially for the forthcoming show. Show Director, Sylvie Ritter, is convinced that “this year, in particular, the World Watch and Jewellery Show will be able to establish itself as the competence centre for the sector”. Since the industry is currently in the throes of a streamlining process, this will be reflected at BASELWORLD too. Its role as the leading show, however, and one which provides stimulus for the luxury goods sector is being reinforced precisely through the crisis. On this, Sylvie Ritter states: “Our exhibitors are not making savings at BASELWORLD but are cutting back on other expenditure worldwide, refraining from taking part in other events. We have thus been able to establish, in positive terms, that our show has even gained strength through the crisis: many of the brands are concentrating on their participation in the World Watch and Jewellery Show in Basel, since it is only here that they meet up with the key buyers from all over the world. “ The revamped BASELWORLD website provides visitors and also journalists and exhibitors with all the information on the event, presented in an even clearer fashion. In addition, the website now offers a comprehensive news platform for the watch and jewellery sector, aimed at both specialist dealers and final consumers. Here, the user will find an excellent overview of the new products in the brands on show, the full spectrum of the watch and jewellery sector, and also the specialist online and print media from all over the world. Strong show concept firmly established The show concept, which is clearly structured according to the individual sectors, thus ensuring that buyers can optimise their visit to the show, gives exhibitors the opportunity to present their products in high-calibre surroundings. The concept has now become established at a very high level and, this year too, marks the perfect response to market needs. This is because the economic climate has slowed down the changes that are taking place in the market structures, and the organisers have thus been able to retain their tried-andtested concept. Over a surface area of 160,000 m2, specialist buyers will find a broad-based selection, unrivalled anywhere in the world, of what the watch and jewellery sectors and related fields have to offer. Later on in June, the Basel Exhibition Center will be hosting another major and exclusive event: , the world’s premier international art show for Modern and contemporary works. This favorite rendez-vous for the global artworld, including art collectors, art dealers, artists, curators and other art enthusiasts, will take place June 16-20. 2010. DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

2013: the new face of the Basel Exhibition Center designed by Swiss Architects Herzog & De Meuron

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BREGUET Tradition Fusee Tourbillon With Silicon Balance Spring The balance spring is one of a series of vital parts at the heart of the movement. Its regular oscillations give the movement its rhythm and regulate the flow of time. Crucial to the workings of a mechanical watch movement, the balance spring is also the most responsive in terms of improvements to timekeeping precision. The balance spring is a very fine coil spring. Usually made of metal, it is vulnerable to shocks, magnetic fields and even the pull of gravity, which can cause warping. Made and marketed by Nivarox-FAR, a Swatch Group enterprise, the alloy traditionally utilised to make balance springs is designed to increase its rigidity as its temperature increases, offsetting in this way the balance’s increased inertia stemming from the latter’s heat expansion. Long viewed as one of the key components of movement precision, the balance spring has benefited from a lot of research and experimentation, with Breguet leading the way. In 1795, Breguet conceived the “Breguet overcoil” spring, today still the reference in terms of balance springs, the choice of the finest watch houses and craft watchmakers. A.-L. Breguet got the idea of altering the balance spring’s terminal curve by raising its end and bending it slightly as a way of improving its isochronism. Another Breguet, Louis-Clément, in 1830 sought to prevail over magnetic fields by crafting balance springs in glass instead of metal. Breguet himself had made balance springs in gold to counter oxidation. One such cylindrical spring was fitted in the celebrated Marie-Antoinette watch; its shape was designed to improve considerably its isochronism by repoising its centre of gravity. In 2006, Breget introduced its first wristwatches with silicon balance spring and escapement. It combines the advantages and qualities of the earlier experiments. Silicon also possesses advantages of its own: • Silicon is totally impervious to magnetic fields. Practical measurements have confirmed that when exposed to over twice the magnetic influence mandated by NIHS standards, silicon posted results 15 times better than the standard. • The manufacturing operations of a silicon balance spring yield a broad variety of shapes, facilitating the highly accurate adaptation of its shape to precisely DELUXEMADE SWISS Swissmagazine Made magazine DELUXE

calculated models. The gap between two silicon coils can be varied according to the spring’s specific function because silicon springs are produced by direct in-depth etching of silicon wafers and not by spiral winding like metal springs. • Silicon balance springs are lighter than metal ones and thus less prone to deformation caused by the pull of gravity. They are also less vulnerable to shocks and provide far superior resistance to corrosion. • Components fashioned from silicon are subjected to a special process that greatly improves their resistance to handling and shocks. These silicon components are already in industrial production and incorporated in four Breguet calibres which are themselves in volume production. One of the challenges of using silicon balance springs is the determination of their temperature coefficient. It defines the watch’s capacity to maintain a steady rate whatever its running temperature. In this area, Breguet has benefited from a joint development with the Swiss Electronics and Microtechnology Centre (Swatch Group participation) and two other Swiss watch houses, for which a patent has been awarded. After four years of service in various watch movements, Breguet can report satisfactory results with flat silicon balance springs. The next step was to turn out silicon balance springs featuring the celebrated ”Breguet” terminal curve. Actually putting a curve into a sliver of silicon represented no mean exploit in the world of watchmaking. The springs are usually cut from flat wafers and remain uniformly thin strips. Getting silicon, devoid of the malleability of metal, to form a bend rising up from the coil required a complete rethinking of the production process, a technical challenge brilliantly mastered by Breguet technicians. The Breguet silicon balance spring will now be adding its specific advantages to silicon’s on all Breguet movements, whatever their basic configuration.

Today, the new Breguet silicon balance spring is featured in the Breguet Tradition 7047 model with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission. Inspired by the design of the first tourbillon-equipped pocket watches devised by Breguet himself, a platinum version is now available fitted with a movement fashioned in an anthracite-toned metal alloy. Its surface finish was obtained by a new and improved electrodeposition process using an alloy of precious metals of the platinum group with a hue darker than rutheniumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Displaying impressive technical sophistication, this timepiece is the pride of Manufacture Breguet. The company is and remains an undisputed pioneer in horological research and development. Not only does it have numerous inventions to its credit, it is also able to exploit its technical advances in timepieces available on the market without undue delay or quantitative limitations. Its new silicon balance spring opens promising avenues of development for Breguet, sure to generate further surprising achievements in the years ahead.

INNOVATIONS 23

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SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE

Haute Horlogerie

SWISS MADE

A look at some of the most magnificent creations that Swiss master watchmakers have devolped for 2010. With over 300 years of tradition, the watch making world still hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stopped to surprise us with new interpretations of time.

HAUTE HORLOGERIE 25

CRISTOPHE CLARET DualTow Enigmatically christened “DualTow”, the first Grande Complication timepiece bearing the signature of Christophe Claret and exclusively developed to mark the 20th anniversary of his company, vividly embodies the principles guiding the Manufacture in the pursuit of its vocation. A symbol of excellence and experience, its mechanical hand-wound single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph movement is endowed with a tourbillon and striking mechanism. The Calibre CC20A is thus a faithful reflection of this spirit and a forceful expression of the shared passion driving the company’s hundred-strong workforce. To celebrate this milestone event, Christophe Claret has chosen to use symbolism in order to endow this incomparable timepiece with unique meaning. The DualTow is a concentrated blend of the powerful values linked to this jubilee, including the enthusiasm and strength of youth, the ardent desire to live each moment with matchless intensity, and a resolutely forward-looking attitude. Expressed in watchmaking terms, this determination has resulted in a mechanism that is unique in the world and for which a patent has been filed to protect its revolutionary chronograph system. To lend an even more exclusive luxury touch, the future owner can choose from a broad range of colours to adorn his watch. A commemorative model that is both inherently provocative and unmistakably original, the DualTow is naturally available in a limited edition only, composed of 68 watches – each unique in its kind. DELUXEMADE SWISS Swissmagazine Made magazine DELUXE

The OMEGA Skeletonized Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is the ultimate expression of the watchmaker’s art. Each watch is handcrafted in OMEGA’s Cellule Haut de Gamme (Tourbillon Atelier) by a select group of horologists. In a Tourbillon movement, all of the main components responsible for the timepiece’s precision are assembled in a rotating cage. OMEGA is the only watchmaker ever to have created a central Tourbillon. Its titanium cage rotates completely every 60 seconds, offsetting the effect of gravity on the performance of the watch. TOURBILLON TECHNOLOGY, DAZZLING DESIGN The Skeletonized Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition combines the complex Tourbillon technology with dazzling design elements. The movement has a luxurious sun-brushed pearlescent finish; its bridges and mechanisms are hand polished. The rotor with its sapphire plate has been newly designed and is etched with the words “Limited Edition” and the watch’s individual serial number (out of 18). The Skeletonized Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is equipped with a Breguet balance spring. The Central Tourbillon’s hands cannot be mounted on a central shaft in the conventional way. They are etched on to sapphire crystal disks and propelled by gearing at the peripheries of the disks. The result is dramatic – they appear to float freely above the movement. ONE WATCHMAKER’S MASTERPIECE To make a skeletonized version of the Central Tourbillon, the watchmaker begins by sawing away any nonessential material from the plates and bridges, then bevelling their edges. Unlike products from conventional workshops, each Tourbillon is the work of one watchmaker who spends up to 540 hours on the creation of the skeletonized version of the watch. This means that every Skeletonized Central Tourbillon is unique – no two are exactly alike. Each watchmaker engraves his or her personal initials on the underside of the Tourbillon base to assure that all parts can be returned to their maker after they have been galvanized. When a Central Tourbillon is returned to OMEGA for servicing, it will be placed in the hands of the original watchmaker. Only 18 pieces of this Skeletonized Tourbillon Coaxial Platinum Limited Edition will be produced. AN OMEGA CO-AXIAL MOVEMENT The outstanding chronometric performance of OMEGA’s exclusive Co-Axial calibre 2636 is enhanced by the stateof-the-industry escapement which has redefined the way mechanical wristwatches are being made. The complex movement is assembled from 320 individual parts. The remarkable Central Tourbillon calibre is housed in a platinum case presented with a black alligator bracelet. While the Skeletonized Central Tourbillon watches are accurate – each one is a COSC-certified chronometer – they are particularly valued for their beauty and the complexity of the Tourbillon mechanism. Every component in the movement and case is produced exclusively for the Central Tourbillons. The OMEGA Skeletonized Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is the exquisite creation of a legendary watch brand working at the peak of its powers.

OMEGA SKELETONIZED TOURBILLON CO-AXIAL PLATINUM LIMITED EDITION

The OMEGA Skeletonized Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is the exquisite creation of a legendary watch brand working at the peak of its powers.

HAUTE HORLOGERIE 27

CHOPARD L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon In a deliberate departure from the traditional principles of horological design, the L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon houses an exceptional movement designed and made from A to Z at the Chopard Manufacture, machined like an engine block and mounted on silent blocks. To celebrate the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 150th anniversary, this mechanical titanium thoroughbred has been produced in a limited series of 150. SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE

JEAN DUNAND Tourbillon ORBITAL Launching the family of JEAN DUNAND watches, a continual program of PiĂ¨ces Uniques, required something more than a mere aesthetic fillip. The watch had to be fresh, original, groundbreaking. At a time when watch connoisseurs are spoiled for choice, a watch commemorating the great Art Deco artist and craftsman had to be heartstoppingly beautiful and daring. That honor fell to the Tourbillon Orbital, the first of JEAN DUNAND timepieces and an achievement never before seen in watchmaking. It features a one-minute flying tourbillon that orbits the dial once every hour, on a revolving movement. The watch also introduces a novel power-reserve indicator in the caseband, provides a full view of the movement and displays the phases of the moon on the case-back. Timing tests prove that the combined rotation of the tourbillon and the movement significantly improves the rate stability of the watch. So extraordinary is this movement that it is patent-protected.

HAUTE HORLOGERIE 29

RADO r5.5 Automatic Already the winner of a prestigious prize, the r5.5 collection has been enlarged with a new automatic model, a natural development of the collaboration between Rado and the British designer Jasper Morrison based on their shared passion for high-tech ceramics. With the characteristic square shape of its dial, the r5.5 is an immediate eyecatcher. The collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name comes from the radius of the dial, whose matt black colour offers striking contrasts with the white luminescent hands and hourmarkers. Not forgetting the perfect synthesis between the ceramic case and the bracelet with its different-sized links that make the watch fit so snugly round the wrist.

DELUXEMADE SWISS Swissmagazine Made magazine DELUXE

sm cover story

Volna Typhoon SI Heritage steel black PVD photographed by Denis Hayoun SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE

Russian heritage Swiss Made Chronograph Typhoon Siberia SHCI Heritage, G5 black PVD, limited edition

Few watchmakers today can claim to enjoy perfect mastery of Grade 5 Titanium. As pioneers in the use of this high-tech material, Volna have succeeded in providing its emblematic Typhoon Siberia model with a complex construction composed entirely of Titanium G5. The Typhoon Siberia blends high technology with exclusive horology, and is produced in two limited editions of 125 watches each. Grade 5 Titanium includes no nickel, is twice as light as steel, and is exceptionally shock-proof and resistant to wear and corrosion. Although it has been used for many years in the medical world, above all for its anti-allergenic qualities, Grade 5 Titanium was somewhat neglected in the watchmaking field until recently. There was a good reason for this: its incredible toughness makes working and modelling Grade 5 Titanium particularly difficult. But that’s without counting on Volna’s virtuoso savoir-faire in the art of mastering 21st century technologies. Ever since its launch, the young watchmaking brand has caught the eye with its mastery of highly complex materials. Such expertise has enabled Volna to ensure that its celebrated Typhoon Siberia is produced entirely in Grade 5 Titanium, for exceptional lightness and solidity. The Volna Typhoon Siberia chronograph has a three-part case with an attention to detail and perfection that only the top watchmaking brands can attain. The alternating polished/ satin finish requires specific skills for work on each of the elements that compose this prestige timepiece. Both versions of this masculine timepiece feature a highprecision chronograph movement within a 46.5mm diameter case. The first limited edition is in polished and satin Grade 5 Titanium; the second, also in Grade 5 Titanium, is doubletreated with black carbon for impregnable resistance.

This exceptional sports watch par excellence combines a resistant, ultra-light, modern design with high-precision functions and readability. Every detail of the chronograph has been carefully designed to combine efficiency and ease of use. The double crown is linked to a security indicator on the dial that confirms the watch is waterresistant again after any manipulations involving the crown. Hands, applied numerals and oversized indexes are coated in the brand’s hallmark red SuperLumiNova. The chronograph, safety indicator and date functions are exceptionally easy to read thanks to the addition of hand-crafted satin ruthenium plaques. The notched, unidirectional bezel facilitates perfect, immediate handling. The generous push-pieces display the same aesthetics as the lugs and crown, underscoring the timepiece’s dynamic, exclusive look. Both the limited editions of the Typhoon Siberia Titanium Chronograph, reflecting Volna’s exceptional expertise in the use of titanium, are available from the brand’s retailers. Volna will also be unveiling the new disruptive model VOLNATOMIC at Baselworld 2010 (Hall 1-1 Stand A08). www.volnawatches.ch

COVER STORY - VOLNA 33

sm cars

the G reen Revolution

For the past 80 years, carmakers from neighboring countries and from around the world have brought their latest wares through the green alpine passes of Switzerland to display at the annual Geneva International Motor Show. But in recent years, something of those green mountains and valleys has rubbed off on the world’s automakers along the way. The cars themselves have turned green, in a figurative sense at least. But arguably never has the effect been so clearly seen than in this year’s crop of new vehicles.

by Noah Joseph

GREEN REVOLUTION 35

A growing conscience on the part of manufacturers, governments and the public at large has brought about a new era of environmentallyfriendly transportation. The process has been slow and arduous, but an enduring commitment is already beginning to bear fruit. While this year’s salon holds the usual assortment of vehicles of every shape and size, one development can be clearly seen to bind them. More than ever before, the world’s automakers are unveiling hybrid vehicles, characterized by their dual-mode propulsion systems driven both by conventional gasoline or diesel engines on the one hand and by electric motors on the other. Some carmakers have embraced the cause and have, over the past several years, unveiled successive generations of hybrid automobiles. But perhaps the most telling indicator comes from those firms that have become known for their unique ability to burn fuel, rather than preserve it. Arguably chief among those octane-addicted automakers is Ferrari. Over the course of its sixty-year history, Ferrari’s chief concern in saving fuel was to optimize its track time in between pit stops. That necessity gave birth to its Kinetic Energy Recovery System (KERS), a sort of hybrid powertrain designed to capture energy from braking,

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introduced in Formula One last year. Now Ferrari has applied the system to its flagship V12 supercar, the 599 GTB Fiorano, to form its first road-going hybrid prototype. But while the hybrid 599 remains a concept for the time being, Ferrari promises it will yield a production version in the near future. Arch-rival Porsche, meanwhile, has also implemented a KERS system, but because the German sportscar-maker doesn’t compete in Formula One, it turnd to the Williams F1 team to apply a mechanical flywheel regenerative braking system to the 911 GT3 R. Although the hybrid 911 is a track-bound race machine, Porsche also revealed a production hybrid version of its latest sport-utility vehicle in Geneva as well. The Cayenne having been co-developed with its corporate cousin, Volkswagen also debuted a hybrid version of its latest Touareg – the first hybrid from Europe’s largest automaker. The chief innovator in green propulsion in the Volkswagen group is Audi. The pioneer of efficient direct injection technology, lossless dualclutch transmissions and clean-burning turbo diesels, Audi arrived in Geneva with a hybrid version of its latest A8 luxury sedan, which joins the upcoming Q5 hybrid SUV in the company’s gas-electric range.

the world’s automakers are unveiling hybrid vehicles, characterized by their dual-mode propulsion systems driven both by conventional gasoline or diesel engines on the one hand and by electric motors on the other.

A growing conscience on the part of manufacturers, governments and the public at large has brought about a new era of environmentally-friendly transportation.

But while green technology comes naturally for Audi, its ultra-luxury British counterpart Bentley has a decidedly different image to reshape. Characterized by the enormity of their engines – 6.75-liter V8s and twin-turbo W12s – Bentley is pursuing a different path towards green propulsion, starting with the Continental Supersports. Unveiled in coupe form at last year’s Geneva show, the Supersports gets a convertible counterpart here in Geneva that is at once both the fastest four-seat cabriolet on the market and the company’s most environmentally friendly, courtesy of its bio-fuel W12 engine. Mercedes-Benz, meanwhile, took the opportunity to unveil the F800 Style concept. The show car previews both a new design direction for Mercedes as well as its hybrid propulsion technologies. Beneath the hood resides a plug-in hybrid system combining a conventional V6 gasoline engine with electric motors capable of running on their own. The powertrain is slated to come to market in the next-generation S-Class, while the design forecasts the shape of the next-generation CLS-Class four-door coupe. Less radical but also noteworthy is the M3 which BMW equipped with an Auto Start Stop system. The latest development in Munich’s EfficientDynamics initiative is an about-face from the horsepower wars responsible for the M3 in the first place, enabling the 414hp V8 engine to shut itself down when coming to a stop and starting again automatically at the press of the accelerator pedal, thus conserving fuel and reducing emissions in the process.

GREEN REVOLUTION

French automaker Peugeot, meanwhile, came to Geneva with not one, but two new hybrid show cars: the svelte SR1 sportscar concept and the 5, a conceptual preview of the upcoming 508 which is destined to replace both the 407 and 607 saloons. Both the SR1 and the 5 are powered by diesel hybrids driving all four wheels.

The market for luxury hybrids, however, is not the exclusive realm of European automakers. To the contrary: Toyota has proven the pioneer in hybrids, bringing its premium division along with it. Following the GS, LS, HS and RX hybrids, Lexus chose Geneva as the venue to unveil its new CT hybrid. The CT 200h cuts a new form for Lexus, packaging hybrid propulsion into a compact luxury hatchback.

Malaysia may not be the first country to come to mind when you think about buying a new car, but Proton is keen to change that perception. And to help them along, they’ve solicited help from some of the most esteemed names in the business. British sportscar and engineering firm Lotus is owned by Proton, and helped them with the chassis development of their new hybrid concept, while the venerable ItalDesign Giugiaro studio penned the car’s shape. Giugiaro isn’t the only Italian design house displaying a hybrid concept at the Geneva show this year. Along with ItalDesign, Pininfarina and Bertone were each commissioned by Alfa Romeo to create concept cars to celebrate the marque’s 100th anniversary. Meanwhile another Italian carrozzeria called the I.DE.A. Institute came with a svelte hybrid saloon concept of their own. A Swiss auto show would not be complete without Swiss products, however, and this year’s Geneva salon did not disappoint. Swiss startup Protoscar has unveiled the Lampo 2, a conceptual allelectric roadster based on GM’s Kappa sportscar platform and packing two electric motors to deliver the equivalent of 408 horsepower through all four wheels. Finally Rinspeed, the local engineering firm and design studio, never disappoints, arriving each year with a concept car more radical than the last. This year, Rinspeed unveiled the UC? (right page) urban transportation concept, based on a two-passenger city car designed to dock on-board specially-fabricated rail cars to optimize inter-city travel while running under its own electric power once it reaches its destination. While other auto shows around the world have suffered from decreased attendance on the part of the public and reduced participation on part of the automakers, Geneva has once again stood the test. The latest crop of environmentally-friendly automobiles revealed at the show this year further cements, after 80 long years of operation, the show’s centrality to the industry and the world it moves, leaving rival expositions “green” with envy.

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Green Revolution 39

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View of the Kunsthaus Zürich collection of contemporary art Foto © www.jpg-factory.com DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

KUNSTHAUS Z端rich 100 Year anniversary by Phos Paradeisos

ART - KUNSTHAUS MUSEUM 41

he Zuercher Kunstgesellschaft has had a distinctly Swiss characteristic in the way it was founded. Unlike other organizations found throughout most of the world, it was not commissioned by a state, church or potentate who had amassed treasures. Instead, in a fashion typical of Swiss democracy, it started with a community of artists and aficianados who gathered together to converse and express mutual solidarity with each other. Small groups formed, which merged into larger groups. It grew to become the highly influential arts organization that it is today. This model for a community arts organization inspired the spawning of similar organizations throughout Europe. Today, the Zuercher Kunstgesellschaft is comprised of over 20,000 members and is still privately owned by its members. As early as 1787, people in Zurich met to discuss art. They began to pool their resources to provide a common space for artists to work and exhibit. They took turns contributing various works to an effort they called the “painter’s book”. In the process, they began to amass a large collection of art. To fulfil their need for space, they purchased the property in 1812. On it, they established a clubhouse and restaurant. In 1818, they gathered together “Gessner’s painting cabinet”, a collection of idyllic landscapes in gouache and a wide selection of drawings by Salomon Gessner. It was the city’s main artistic attraction. More exhibits followed. In 1847, the architect Gustav Albert Wegmann added a modest gallery wing to their premises. The collection grew as the federal governDELUXE Swiss Made magazine

ment began to deposit significantly more valuable art into their collection. The Gottfried Keller-Foundation followed suit. In 1896, in an effort to coalesce their efforts to build a proper museum, the Zuercher Kunstgesellschaft was established. The concept for the museum was implied in its name, Kunsthaus. It is a neologism on Art and a public house in the democratic vein of an institution such as a Schulhaus or Rathaus. The architect, Karl Moser, won the commission to build the museum. His previous work with the Church of St. Paul in Basel had catapulted him to the upper echelons of Swiss architecture. Among his other works are the university building in Zurich and various churches. But among all his works, his original design for the Kunsthaus is generally considered his masterpiece. The thought was not so much of a museum or gallery, but both at once. It served a double function which was quite unusual for its time. On April 17, 1910, the Kunsthaus was opened to the public. It was very well received by the citizens of Zurich. The following day, the Sechselaeute parade was dedicated to its inauguration. Since then, it has played a key role in catapulting the works of important artist such as Ferdinand Hodler, Cuno Amiet and Giovanni Giacometti. By the 1920s, the organization had quickly outgrown the size of the building. A series of extensions were added on by Karl Moser in 1925, the Pfister brothers in 1958, Erwin Mueller in 1976 and a major proposal by David Chipperfield in 2015.

The Buehrle Collection Emil Georg Buerhle (1890-1956) was a Zurichbased industrialist who has donated one of the most valuable collections to the Kunsthaus Zurich. His collection contains some of the best representations of Cubist, Fauves, Nabis art, as well as other exponents of the French avant-garde on the last century. Also contained in the collection are exemplary pieces from the Dutch Golden Age, Venetian Old Masters and Gothic wooden sculptures. Works from van Gogh, Renoir, Monet, Cezanne and Picasso are amongst the most admired pieces in the collection. In addition, there are significant works by Frans Hals, Canaletto, Ingres, Delacroix, Manet, Degas, Gauguin, Signac, Vlaminck and Braque. A tour through the Buerhle collection is a veritable edification of modern art history. Emil Buerhle studied literature and art history at the Universities of Freibug and Munich. His studies were disrupted by the First World War. After the war, he joined a tool and machining company his father-in-law had a stake in. Under his direction, the firm grew to be one of Switzerland’s most important industrial players. Eventually, he became the sole owner of Oerlikon, Buehrle & Company. He bought a villa on Zuerich’s Zollikerstrasse and began to collecting art.

Gessner-Kabinett Feb 26, 2010 - May 16, 2010 Kunsthaus Zürich

The focus of his collection began with the French school. He would buy hundreds of pieces at a time from various galleries and collectors. In the course of this, it came to light that some of the pieces in these collections have been stolen by Germans from their owners in occupied France. In restitution,

many were returned to their rightful owners. Towards the end of his life, Buerhle sought to give his collection a longer lasting life. Instead of establishing his own gallery, he donated his collection to the city of Zurich and to the Zurcher Kunstgesellschaft. Buerhle was an active member of the Zuercher Kunstgesellschaft. He had served as a member of its board for 11 years. With the combined collection of the E.G. Buehrle Foundation and Zurcher Kunstgesellschaft, the Kunsthaus has become the leading center for French Impressionism outside of Paris. In 2008, three armed men wearing ski masks walked into the Buerhle Museum and walked out with $163 million in art. It was the largest art heist in the history of Switzerland, and one of the largest in Europe. They loaded the art into a white car and drove away with the paintings partly sticking out of the car. The stolen masterpieces were Monet’s “Poppy field at the Vetheuil,” Degas’ “Ludovic Lepic and his Daughter,” van Gogh’s “Blooming Chestnut Branches,” and Cezanne’s “Boy in the Red Waistcoat.” Shortly afterwards, the white car was found parked outside Zurich’s Psychiatric clinic. Fortunately, the Monet and the van Gogh masterpieces were recovered. The Degas and the Cezanne masterpieces have not been recovered. Two years after the heist, the Buerhle Collection is once again on show under the protection of the Kunstmuseum Zurich. The collection will be exhibited from February 12 to May 16, 2010.

Heimplatz 1, 8001 Zürich www.kunsthaus.ch ART - KUNSTHAUS ZURICH 43

sm craftsmanship

The Unique Art

Enamel Watches By Keith W. Strandberg

Watches as an art form Sounds strange, as the size of the dial on a watch, the only available place for concentrated decoration, is very small, even on the biggest of watches. Luckily, some brands have focused on putting works of art on watch dials as a point of differentiation, and one of the more popular traditional arts to be applied on high-end watches is enamel. Enamel work is almost as old as history itself â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Greeks have been credited with using enamel on gold jewelry back in the fifth century B.C., and Caesar claimed to find Celtic cultures using enamel in Britain in the first century B.C. Enamel painting was brought to Geneva, associated with jewelry and watch making already, during the 17th century and the Swiss quickly made it their own. In 1760, for example, Genevan artists improved the techniques and invented Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Email sous fondant (also known as Email de GenĂ¨ve or the Geneva Technique), which consists of several layers of fine uncolored and transparent enamel applied directly on miniature painting, the layers then polished after each firing. This particular finishing served to protect and preserve the painting, virtually forever. Watch companies used enamel quite often on pocket watches and when wrist watches were introduced, after 1910 or so, enamel continued its popularity. Then, because of the hard work, technical challenges, trial and error and expense involved, enamel work faded from the watch industry. Now, thanks to Swiss companies like Van Cleef & Arpels, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Jaquet Droz, DeLaneau, JaegerLeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and others, enamel is back, stronger, and more beautiful, than ever.

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The Renaissance of Enamel Enamel in watchmaking is enjoying a renaissance, with several companies doing incredible pieces of art, and at the same time reinvigorating a métier d’art that was just about extinct. “Enamel watches are making a come back and it is justified,” says Philippe Leopold-Metzger, Piaget. “It is a real craft, a work of art, and something that complements and enhances the beauty of the dials and of the cases, and this trend will continue. One of the great things about the recent high-end watch introductions is the increased use of enamel.” Exclusive watch brand DeLaneau has taken high-end watchmaking for women to new heights with a focus on traditional arts like enamelling. “I am proud that at DeLaneau we are preserving the ancient techniques and using them in our products,” says DeLaneau CEO and head designer Cristina Wendt-Thevenaz. “For example, enamelling is such an incredible craft -- it’s so intricate, time-consuming and easy to fail. It is so difficult that enamel has been traditionally executed by women -- women are patient and not afraid of hard work, they just get on with it, without complaining. Women don’t dwell on the effort needed, but they love the results. “It was a challenge for me to bring enamel into watchmaking; widely used in jewelry, it was never featured in watches for women,” she continues. “I am proud of helping to reintroduce this art form, reserved for men and accomplished by women, and offer it to women in a very different form -- complicated mechanical watches that are practical, yet beautiful to behold.” CRAFTS - THE ART OF ENAMEL 45

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The Themes Some of the more popular themes for enamel dials include beautiful colors -- enamel provides an incredibly lustrous color which is unable to be duplicated any other way. In addition, unlike other art forms, the enamel will not fade as the years go by, because of the protective coating of translucent enamel applied after each color. Nature themes are also very popular, with flowers and landscapes leading the way. Portraits of humans and animals are at the forefront of enamel painting, as this is one of the most difficult artistic pursuits. Most of these watches are limited editions or one-of-a-kind pieces because of the difficulty and the expense involved. Thank goodness watch companies are rediscovering the enamel art. There arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t many artisans who work in the watch industry, and the work is so difficult and time-consuming, so the number of pieces are very limited. Luckily, todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Swiss artisans are training young people to perform this delicate and artistic job, so enamel dials and enamel painting on dials can continue to adorn the finest timepieces. Coming next: The Secrets of Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Enamel Ateliers CRAFTS - THE ART OF ENAMEL 47

sm photography

Elements

by Denis Hayoun

Water SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE

CHOPARD Haute Joaillerie Collection ELEMENTS BY DENIS HAYOUN 49

Behind the camera: Denis Hayoun

In the middle of the tripods, the cables and lenses, a decor constructs itself, as an atmosphere installs, little by little, the games of light draw around a TOURBILLON SQUELETTE, the universe of Denis Hayoun. The facets of the diamonds sparkle in the light of the spotlights…, flash,… flash…, the helpers agitate the silvery reflectors. The model is in place, the photographer plays with the lighting so that the Golconde recovers the dignity of its noble source. He adjusts his lense, he searches for the angle that will make the light of the stones spring and vibrate the color of the elements...... “Incline the face” “look for the light of your look” the reflector stands or gets settled, the flashes follow each other…. Such as a chief of orchestra, he directs his small world in order to retranscribe a scenography of which he only holds the secret. From Rue Diorama in Geneva, Denis Hayoun reigns on Diode, the studio that he created in 2005. Photographer of talent, he has the “eye”, the major watchmaking and jewelry brands were not mistaken when confiding him with their creations. Creative technician, specialized in “still photography” as it’s called in the industry. Denis enlivens objects and transmits emotions through his pictures. In 2009 Denis was awarded the special “Photography Award” for his interpetation of watch brand Roman Jérôme. The same year he also won the first price for the Best Advertising Campaign for watch brand MARVIN. Never stopping to discover the next innovation in design and always cutting edge, his idea proven right in this industry and this is why Swiss Made DELUXE magazine is proud to bring you a look at and through Denis Hayoun’s eyes. CREDITS Denis Hayoun - Studio Diode - www.diode.ch Photographer assistant/camera: Claudine Garcia Still-Life retouch: Estelle Reiland Life Style retouch: Stéphanie [S&H] - www.alimage.com Model: Sarah D. @ KAIZEN models Hair & Make up: Francis Ases Producer: Sherry Williams

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AUDEMARS PIGUET - Royal Oak Offshore Diver AUDEMARS PIGUET - Royal Oak Offshore Carbon with diamonds setting ELEMENTS BY DENIS HAYOUN 51

Earth DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

de GRISOGONO - Boule Watch S08, CHF 122’000.CARTIER - Mandala diamond earrings, price on request ELEMENTS BY DENIS HAYOUN 53

ARTYA - Unique Piece Coup de foudre 500 000 Volts, CHF 6â&#x20AC;&#x2122;200.-

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LONGINES - Lindbergh’s Atlantic Voyage Watch VICTORINOX - Chrono Classic Lady Diamond ELEMENTS BY DENIS HAYOUN 55

Air CARTIER - Mandala necklace, Chandelier earrings (4.74 carats), diamond bracelet (5.57 carats) DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

ELEMENTS BY DENIS HAYOUN 57

JAEGER-LeCOULTRE - Reverso Squadra Lady, CHF 96’2000.DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

TISSOT - Glam Sport collection MILUS - Zetios Chronograph Joaillerie (1.14 carats) ELEMENTS BY DENIS HAYOUN 59

Fire DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

de GRISOGONO - Lipstick CY S08 watch, CHF 62’800.de GRISOGONO - earrings ref. 10521/9, CHF 21’500.-

ELEMENTS BY DENIS HAYOUN 61

LOUIS MOINET - Jules Verne collection,Instrument N.2, CHF 20â&#x20AC;&#x2122;900.-

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TISSOT - Sailing Touch EBERHARD & CO - Tazio Nuvolari Edition Limitée Grand Prix en Or ELEMENTS BY DENIS HAYOUN 63

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Vincent Peters ÂŠ Cartier 2009 DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Timeless Luxury Jewelry with a feminine touch of time. modern lines & innovations

Bvlgari Serpenti Serpenti celebrates the fusion of the snake with the Tubogas bracelet, the two iconic values that distinguish Bulgari. The form of the reptile, the symbol of eternal youth and immortality in mythological creatures, has been an integral part of the Italian jewellery universe since time immemorial and has regularly featured in the most prestigious of Bulgari’s creations over the decades.

Captive de Cartier Infinitely captivating The refined and sensual Captive de Cartier watch cultivates the mystery surrounding its enigmatic form. The radiant roundness of the dial is enhanced by an alluring jewelled clasp. A watch hemmed with diamonds to charm the passage of time and its gem-set hours in a collection that is at once extravagant, dazzling, and elegant. Submit to the spellbinding Captive de Cartier watch, yield to its gentle dazzle and enjoy the radiant pleasure of time… A watch that is overtly seductive, in homage to Cartier’s greatest watchmaking heroines. JEWELRY 65

Vacheron Constantin Lady Kalla flame Vacheron Constantin presents an extraordinary creation dedicated to horological virtuosity and the tradition of jewellery making. First, the brand pays tribute to 30 years of the Kallista with the Kallania, a world first in terms of execution and the number of carats. Then, a first in horology, it uses the flame diamond-cut to stunning effect in two captivating horological gems. Finally, with the Malte Tourbillon Regulator, high-tech horology marries with the most sophisticated and delicate of all settings: the invisible setting. Works of art in their own right, these exceptional pieces sublimate the craft of the gem-setter for whom each precious stone is a challenge demanding infinite precision and patience. DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

CHOPARD Red Carpet Collection A Splendid Pearl and Diamond Set. The necklace comprising 5 Tahitian cultured pearls and 76 carats of rose-cut black and white diamonds, earrings en suite.

NINA RICCI a delightfully unusual piece of jewelry Breaking with all standard codes, the N030 aims to surprise and draw the eye to its case resting in the oval setting. Nestled in the hollow of this arch, the hands dance to the hours. Sitting within the loop of this inner ring, the dial follows the spiral movement of this ribbon of steel. The design is as unprecedented as it is feminine, subtly revealing the wrist through its opening.

PIAGET 18-carat white gold ring set with 92 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 2.68 cts) and a central cushion-cut diamond (approx. 2.55 cts)

CHOPARD Red Carpet Collection An important coloured diamondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s High Jewelry watch set with 240 briolettes of brown diamonds for a total weight of 193 carats and 1100 brilliant-cut diamonds. JEWELRY 67

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Architecture in NYC A modern look at today’s innovative luxury through the many aspects of curves and architecture

¨New York has always been at the heart of Harry Winston. The energy, arcitechure, movement, and life of New York City constantly inspire Winston design. This collection celebrates the inimitible spirit and infinite possiblities of this remarkable city.¨ Sandrine de Lange

suspension DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

the reflection

New York Collection by Harry Winston There’s nothing like the energy of New York City – the iconic landmarks, the perpetual motion, the inimitable spirit and unsurpassable style. The epicenter of excitement and glamour, this remarkable city has been Harry Winston’s irresistible source of inspiration since the company first opened its doors in 1932 and began to re-imagine the potential of fine jewelry. At Harry Winston’s creative headquarters on New York’s famed Fifth Avenue, each generation of Winston designers and craftsmen collaborate to create the exceptional. Part of this charm remains our unique ability to examine the world around us – nature, architecture, culture, life – and to reinterpret it in extraordinary jewels. In this enduring tradition, Harry Winston introduces our newest series of exquisite designs – the New York Collection. From the romantic city Sunsets envisioned in the rarest padparadscha sapphires… to the striking spiral of the Guggenheim, handcrafted in diamonds… to the scintillating brilliance of the city Nightlife echoed in sparking diamonds… to the flowing Rivers of deep blue sapphires… to the vivid emerald lawns of Central Park … Each piece in the New York Collection celebrates the distinct imagery, energy and character that define the stories of the city – our city – retold in a way that only Harry Winston can.

the skyscraper

the attraction the river

JEWELRY 69

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Awards Season In the city of eternal sunshine, seasons are dictated by Hollywood’s calendar.

By Claudia Laffranchi

In the city of eternal sunshine, seasons are dictated by Hollywood’s calendar. Winter means serious movies hoping for an Oscar nomination. Spring is the time when studios release films they are a little ashamed of. Summer means action blockbusters and sequels. And fall is the time for horror. LA’s most famous season is “award season”, a real feast of stars and golden statues which kicks off with the Palm Springs Film Festival Awards Night, gets into gear with the Golden Globes, and culminates with the Oscars. In between are the Screen Actors Guild Awards, given by actors to actors; the Spirit Awards, the prizes for independent cinema; the People’s Choice Awards; the myriad of awards given by all the guilds and critics associations; and also the Razzies, which honor the ugliest movies and the worst performances, and are attended only by very self-deprecating celebrities. During January and February (although this year the

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Oscars are in March to avoid competition from the Winter Olympics) Hollywood is a whirlwind of red carpets, black ties and gold statues. In the last few years the (un)official start of awards season happens actually 120 miles east of LA, with the Cartier-sponsored Awards Gala which opens the Palm Springs Film festival, and which honors some of the previous year’s best filmmakers. The non-competitive desert shindig deserves its kudos for regularly selecting artists who will end up earning Golden Globes and Oscars, even before the nominations are announced. This year’s honorees were Morgan Freeman, Helen Mirren, Jeff Bridges, Marion Cotillard, Anna Kendrick, Jeremy Renner, Mariah Carey (whose champagne-fuelled speech became a YouTube and media sensation, driving endless publicity to the event), directors Quentin Tarantino and Jason Reitman, and composer T-Bone Burnett. The artists who showed up to present the awards

were A-listers such as Clint Eastwood, Michelle Pfeiffer, Rob Marshall, Ivan Reitman, Shohreh Aghdashloo, Lee Daniels, Diablo Cody, Norman Jewison and Sean Penn. Thanks to its proximity to Los Angeles and to the Golden Globes, year after year Palm Springs manages to attract top talent who is already in LA on the promotional circuit, going from screenings to parties organized by studios, sponsors and magazines to make themselves visible to potential voters. The award party of all parties is traditionally the Golden Globes, held in mid-January and organized by the Hollywood Foreign Press Association, a select group of 82 international journalists. Contrarily to the more formal Oscars, held in a theatre, the Globes are held in the Beverly Hilton ballroom during a banquet in which Moet & Chandon flows freely and the smoking terrace has an open bar. The celebrity ratio is higher than everywhere else, since the Golden Globes honor both film and

passing on excellence in know-how

STARS and LUXURY RED CARPET - AWARDS SEASON 71

television. The event is also famous for its after parties, most of them held on the grounds of the hotel, thus allowing an easy and traffic-free party-hopping. But the Globes are also considered the Academy Awards crystal ball, since many Globes winners go on to win the most coveted statuette as well. This year’s Golden Globes winners include Meryl Streep and Sandra Bullock (best acress in a comedy or musical for Julie & Julia, best actress in a drama for the Blind Side); Robert Downey Jr. and Jeff Bridges (for Sherlock Holmes and Crazy Heart, respectively), while James Cameron won best director for Avatar. The film took home also the award for best picture in the drama category, while The Hangover won best comedy or musical, and Up was voted best animated movie. TV winners were Juliana Margulies, Kevin Bacon and the shows Mad Men and Glee. Of course the prize everybody dreams about is the Academy Awards, also known as Oscar, the grandaddy of award shows, organized by the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, an institution which gathers the best and the brightest of the film industry, all categories included. And if some people get bored during the show while prizes are handed out to so-called “technical categories” (photography, sound, editing, mixing, costumes, hair and make up, production design), this is by far the most prestigious award, the one that puts winners in a new orbit (and tax bracket) and can create more box office for the films it honours. The forecast says it’s gonna be a Golden Globes and SAG Awards bis, meaning Bullock, Bridges, Mo’Nique and

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Christoph Waltz. Now in its 82nd year, the Oscars will be held on March 7th at the Kodak Theatre in Hollywood, its permanent home since 2002. The nominees and the entire Hollywood aristocracy will be out in numbers. The Oscars are also the culmination of a grueling parcour that stars (mostly women, but not only) have to go through in order to get to the big night in the best shape, with the right designer dress, shoes, bags and jewelry (selected by expensive personal stylists), and flawless hair & makeup (the best artists cost 5000 dollars and up a day). It is a decathlon of secret plastic surgery, diets, spa treatments, botox and fillers, brow shaping, mani/pedicures, tanning salons; assistants booking the right hotel months in advance (the finest hire extra help, security and on-site tailors for last minute alterations during award season), and so on and on and on. Award season must feel like training for the glamour Olympics… But seriously, this not only fluff and games and vanity: award season creates a huge influx of money into LA’s economy, and not only for the abovementioned high-end businesses. Behind all the sequins and the shine there are armies of florists, waiters, cooks, hotel workers, tailors, cobblers, limousine drivers, electricians, carpenters, photographers, cameramen, event organizers, valet parkers, and many more representatives of professions one would think lightyears away from show business, but who actually earn a big chunk of their living keeping Award Season rolling smoothly, for all the world to see and dream about. And that’s Hollywood, too.

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FUNLux DESIGN

de路sign: 1) to create, fashion, execute, or construct according

to plan, 2 a ) to conceive and plan out in the mind, b ) to have as a purpose, c ) to devise for a specific function or end, 3 a ) to make a drawing, pattern, or sketch of; b ) to draw the plans for. by Phos Paradeisos

Whether we acknowledge it or not, every manmade object in our environment is the outcome of some effort at design. Just as there are varying degrees of effort, there are varying degrees in design quality outcome. Some might be thought of as commonplace, while others are considered extraordinary. Some objects have been ardently and meticulously thought out, while others come about through a flash of inspiration. In any case, there are designs that not only exhibit high levels of quality, but approach optimal use and perfection.

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A couch of unique futuristic beauty. The apparently freefloating form is based on the shape of the human body and is uncompromising in both appearance and application.

Design: Santiago Calatrava DESIGN 75

Design: Verner Panton

Design is the art of possible. It is a creative and deliberate process by which materials, components, potentials, tendencies and use are intentionally arranged in order to achieve an optimum and desired result. The end result is the bringing forth of new realities and worlds.

Design: de Sede

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Design: de Sede

Design: Campana

DESIGN 77

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Pacific design chair Team by Wellis

YOUNG... HIP... SWISS...

K端nzli - Dendrit shoes

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fruictiferious

the Colorful artist watches

Piaget Haute Joaillerie

world of SWATCH

love explosion

ACCESSORIES 79

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Datuk Jeffery Sandragesan DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Photo provided by Tschuggen Grand Hotel photo: Begga Bachmann

Taste, Grace

and the man within by Sherry Williams

In my quest to appease my acquired taste for exotic flavors, my circle of well-informed Swiss friends led me to Jefferyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Erawan Thai restaurant in Basel. As I ate sumptiously, I experienced explosions of flavors that surpassed my expectations and made me smile in joyful mirth. There was something quite different about this fare. The tastes exhibited a rich boldness and authenticity that is not often found in the usual Thai restaurants of Switzerland. This meal was a fit for a king. Compelled to investigate further, I met the owner who graciously introduced himself as Jeffery. Little did I know at the time that I set in motion a process of getting to know such a colourful person who has led such an interesting and illustrious life. Jeffery is not simply a restaurateur. Behind the restaurant is a man who embarked on a lifelong aspiration to bring out the best in himself and others for the purpose of sharing with humanity. His journey brought him into the inner circles of the Basel society, influential artists, business leaders, political leaders and royalty. Among his myriads of accomplishments; Jeffery has been awarded the keys to the city of Basel, was nominated and elected to the Parliament of Basel, and was conferred the honorific Datuk title by the King of Malaysia. Young Jeffery was born into humble beginnings in Kedah, Malaysia. He was the eldest of 4 children, with a hard working laborer father, and a strong mother who maintained the stability of the family. In 1969, at the age of 18, he departed from home in his journey to discover the world for himself. He took the ancient trade routes from Kathmandu, through Persia, the Middle East, and into the Mediterranean. Along the way, he encountered a thoroughfare of American and European students who were also on their quest to experience the world. He discovered the value of sharing his culture with his newfound friends, through the joy of cooking for them. He travelled the seas from the Mediterranean all the way across the Atlantic to New Foundland as he worked seasonally on a fishing boat. Off-season, he travelled through Northern Africa, the Middle East and Southern Europe. At the urging of his friends, he heeded good advice to study in London. He planned to drive with a Swiss friend to Basel where he would take a train towards London. He found

GOURMET - JEFFERY SANDRAGESAN 81

himself in the stunning alps of Switzerland. But a fateful mishap occurred that would steer the course of the rest of Jeffery’s life – on the day he was to depart for London, he missed his train. With very little money in his pocket, young Jeffery did whatever he could to earn a living. He swept the streets of Basel and sold newspapers. But what Jeffery became known for was the food he cooked for others at the youth hostel he was living in. He often cooked for struggling artists who had no money to pay, but compensated him with works of art. Wherever he went, he sought to integrate. He lived the motto of “When in Rome, do as the Romans do”. Within two years, he was able to learn enough German to function effectively and communicate with the local population. Through this, he found a pathway to his success. It would be difficult to ascertain the full impact of Jeffery’s influence on the progression of international cuisine in Basel. At the time, there were very little international flavours in Switzerland. Seizing the opportunity at hand, Jeffery launched a business of importing eastern spices into Switzerland. He set up stalls at street markets. He became a recognized icon in the city. It was a natural progression for Jeffery to serve up dishes to the public using his spices. He set up a tent at the Basel Fall Fair where he served steaks. It became hugely popular with Baslers of all walks of life. It was through this that he established his relationship with the people of the city. Eventually, he opened DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

his first restaurant. It became well known among those in the business sector of Switzerland. Executives have been known to travel from Zurich for a lunch meeting at Jeffery’s restaurant in Basel. Throughout this time, Jeffery did not rest his laurels on his success in food. He did not perceive his activities as merely business activities, rather as his participation in the endless cycle of life and his engagement with humanity. He continually looked for opportunities to contribute value to society. Whenever he found good opportunities to make use of his connections to Switzerland and Malaysia, Jeffery offered himself up. Jeffery’s business grew. Jeffery’s character is unmistakably pronounced to most people who have had the privilege of getting to know him. Diverse accounts of him attest to the same sentiment that this is a truly remarkable man. There were numerous articles written about him, and even a documentary of his life on the national television station, SF1. While he was not one to seek attention, those who knew him persuaded him to accept a nomination to serve the city of Basel as a Grossrat, a member of Parliament. He won that election. However, Jeffery does not see himself as a politician, but as a public servant. He quips, “I cannot be a politician, simply because I hate to lie.” His philanthropic and business activities are also well known in Malaysia. At the recommendation of the Prime Minister, the King of Malaysia conferred the title of Datuk on Jeffery. As a Datuk, Jeffery

performs ambassadorship duties between Malaysia and Switzerland. He is a personal friend of many CEOs who do business between the two countries. Aside from the official side of Datuk Jeffery, it has been a joy to get to know his playful side. He tells of his days when he was involved in the music industry, and the famous who have become his personal friends. In 1991, Jeffery sponsored the first Badminton tournament in Basel. It was originally called “Jeffery’s Open”. Today, it is the biggest badminton tournament in the world, broadcast to 250 million viewers with a prize purse of $200,000. At the awards ceremony, it is Jeffery who presents the champion with the award along with a gift watch. In 1996, as a gift to the city of Basel and an expression of his gratitude to Ganesh, Jeffery bought an elephant from Kenya, and donated him to the Basel Zoo. The elephant was affably named “Harry”. This gesture had profound meaning for Jeffery as elephants and Ganesh symbolize unity and peace. Jeffery is also a passionate collector of watches. When asked about his fascination with time, his answer was “The movement, of course. Without a steady flow in life, there is nothing.” This resonated with the life of the man himself. Although his restaurant runs efficiently well, you may still find Datuk Jeffery personally greeting his guests. Even at the yearly Basel Fall Fair, Datuk Jeffery will still man the tent. In the course of 17 days, he will still personally marinate and

prepare what will be served to approximately 18,000 people. When asked why he still does this even though he can get any number of people to do this for him, he explains, “This is where I started, and these are my roots. In the beginning, I would give pieces of chocolate to the little children who came to the tent. I’ve seen many of them grow up, some to be quite prominent in the city. Nowadays, I see many with their own children, even the children of their children. It is with great joy that I can continue to offer them pieces of chocolate. This is the cycle of life. What I am doing here is taking part in the cycle of life.”

Jeffery’s Thai Prawn Curry 3 tbs cooking oil 1 Kg medium prawns (peeled, de-veined) without the tails 4 tbs red curry paste 350 gm coconut cream 3 tbs fresh squeezed lime juice 2 tbs sugar 4 kaffir lime leaves 100 ml water 1 cup of fresh coriander leaves Directions: Heat 3 tbs of oil in a frying pan over a high heat. Add 1 kgs of prawns and cook for 5-8 min or until cooked. Take out and separate on plate. Reduce the heat to medium. Add 4tbs of red curry paste, with coconut cream, lime juice, sugar, 4 kaffir leaves. Add water to the pan. Cook for 8–10 min. Add prawns stir until all ingredients are heated. Finally, last stir in 1 cup of coriander leaves and serve with steamed rice.

GOURMET - JEFFERY SANDRAGESAN 83

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Fun MOMENTS

HAMILTON Pulsomatic Forty years after revolutionising the world of watchmaking by inventing the first digital watch, Hamilton is opening the festivities of this anniversary with the launch of a new Hamilton Pulsomatic, equipped for the occasion with automatic technology. With its science-fiction design, a case inspired by space-age televisions, and a liquid crystal screen powered by an innovative automatic movement, the 120day power reserve H1970 movement, todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pulsomatic clearly stands on equal terms with its illustrious forerunner, considered to be the first computer ever worn on the wrist.

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New trends, designs, innovations, glamour, sportiness, with a strong appeal; technical or mechanical, elegant or casual, funny and colourful, classic or modern... the novelties of 2010 are sure to appease your appetite for an exquisite new Swiss Made watch!

BVLGARI Octo Bi-Retro Steel Ceramic Powered by a manufactory-made movement, this sporty model has been designed for intensive living. A large window at 12 o’clock shows the jumping hours, the retrograde minute hand travels over a 210° arc, while the retrograde date is shown on a 180° arc at the bottom of the dial. At the same time, the studs on the bezel make it easier to read the intermediary minutes in their separate 10-minute segments.

HERMES Clipper 44 mm Mechanical Chronograph This year, the legendary Clipper has adopted a 44mm case in titanium, undoubtedly an allusion to the world of sailing where this material is highly prized for its high performance and lightness. The reference to the famous three-master that has given its name to this collection is even more striking. Inside the case, an automatic chronograph movement, a marvel of reliability and precision, gives rhythm to time and, for an instant, suspends its flight. Offered in a variety of sizes, the range has not lost any of its original elegance. Nor any of its allure, which evokes the famous sailboat’s porthole.

DAMIANI Belle Epoque A tribute to the Belle Epoque, those early years of the 20th century when change, joie de vivre and exclusiveness were the leitmotifs of a new generation. Damiani has brought this period back to life with a collection of jewellery timepieces: an interpretation inspired by haute couture and the cinema, both of which rose to prominence during this eminently glorious era.

WATCH SELECTION 85

DAVIDOFF Gent Automatic Chronograph Champion Collection Davidoff presents new dynamic models that complement its Very Zino watch collection perfectly. All designs reflect the spirit of Davidoff and harmoniously combine elegance and modernity with the highest quality. Destined to be a true champion in every way the new Very Zino â&#x20AC;&#x153;Championâ&#x20AC;? Collection is made for men who appreciate a timepiece that reflects their own personality and characteristics of a winner. Also in the Active Traveller Collection impressive masculinity meets Swiss craftsmanship with powerful colours merged with deep black rubber straps. The new watches radiate a sense of adventure and endurance combined with a confident and dedicated character. Robust yet stylish, these individual timepieces are water resistant for up to 5 and 10 ATM.

SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE

CUERVO Y SOBRINOS Torpedo Historiador Semanal PORSCHE DESIGN Heritage P’6530

Thirty years ago, Porsche Design created a small revolution in the watch world by launching the first chronograph in titanium. It has now reproduced this legendary model. Faithful to the original, the new Heritage P’6530, constructed entirely in shot-blasted titanium, has the same positive characteristics as its illustrious predecessor: pure, clear lines and integrated pushpieces. Only the diameter of the case has changed: to reflect modern trends, it has been increased to a generous 44 mm. Nevertheless, it remains just as comfortable to wear thanks to the extreme lightness of the titanium, which is very easy on the skin and offers strong resistance to corrosion. Limited edition of 911 pieces.

With the new Torpedo Historiador Semanal (“Weekly Historian Torpedo”), Cuervo y Sobrinos brings to life again one of their most emblematic historic models. This watch is a revival on a modern note of the Cuervo y Sobrinos dating back to the 40s. The original mechanism was created and subsequently patented in 1944 by a Fontainemelon manufacturer of Swiss movements. Cuervo y Sobrinos used this original movement during many years between 1945 and 1955. The Swiss Watch manufacturer decided to reproduce this calibre, creating their own module to enhance the original product. Two years’ research was devoted to developing this model and the result was well worth the effort.

BADOLLET Crystalball Chronograph Taking personalisation to its very limits thanks to a remarkable choice of materials for the dial and case, the Crystalball Chronograph encapsulates the mastery of the watchmakers of Badollet. The most stunning example is the manufactory-made column-wheel monopushpiece chronograph movement combined with a regulator tourbillon and a 120-hour power reserve.

ARMAND NICOLET New S05 The objective was to create a truly elegant sporty watch, one that offered as much style as wearer comfort. The case has been worked in titanium to make it more resistant to corrosion and to lessen the weight. A contemporary mechanical piece of true distinction, the new S05 from Armand Nicolet has surpassed all the expectations of its creator!

CERTINA DS First Lady Ceramic In tribute to today’s women, the DS First Lady Ceramic combines a strong character with undeniable charm. Perfectly in tune with its time, it displays subtle contrasts between a bezel with black ceramic inserts and a beautiful pink PVD-covered case that highlights the superbly-crafted pyramidal hourmarkers.

WATCH SELECTION 87

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Prestige, success

and the continous fight against countefeited watches

he success of the Swiss watch industry often can be measured through counterfeiting. When a brand reaches a strong symbolic and emblematic status, its products are suddenly are copied and sold in more or less public venues, depending on the country. The practice is out in the open on the Italian beaches during the summertime, but in Hong Kong and Singapore you might be approached on the street and eventually led into a discreet shop. If counterfeited products — watches specifically — once showed a low level of quality gloabally, times have changed. Today counterfeit watches often are crafted and produced to reach a standard of outer and inner (movement) quality close to the original products. It must be understood that counterfeiters know the watch market, know the brands perfectly and produce, with skilled workers, the fake watches with the same professional tools that you can find in the most prestigious Swiss manufacturing facilities! In spite of many efforts aimed at containment, counterfeiting and piracy wreak havoc on virtually every economy worldwide and continue to expand rapidly through multiple distribution channels. As with drugs and weapons, counterfeiting watches generates huge profits and is today boosted by various distribution channels. In particular, the Internet strongly contributes to this phenomenon. Calculations based on customs seizures show that counterfeits and piracy worldwide amount to $200 billion to $360 billion a year, or 5 percent to 7 percent of international trade. Swiss watches are no exception, as the sector is hit full on by this modern-day plague. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry estimates that more than 40 million fake Swiss watches are made each year (compared with exports of almost 26 million authentic Swiss watches in 2007) and that they generate net profits of about $1 billion. This illicit trade, whose main victims are the most prestigious Swiss brands, is equivalent to about 6 percent of total Swiss watch exports for 2007. In this context, it would be naïve to imagine that simply targeting the counterfeiters and their means of production can defeat counterfeiting. This wouldn’t be such a thriving industry without the individuals who buy fake watches, and who fail to realize the full extent of the damage they cause, in particular in human terms. The priority in the fight against counterfeiting must therefore be to speak directly to these potential customers and have them understand that what they believe is a harmless purchase has serious consequences on companies and nations. Legislative weapons and international measures lack the impact to defeat this global problem; hence the customers themselves

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must realize that wearing a fake luxury watch is empty of meaning. Counterfeiters increasingly target internationally renowned luxury watch brands, whose reputation, capacity for innovation and sales all suffer as a result. These brands must also invest significant amounts in the fight against illicit copies in all their forms and to protect their intellectual property. As counterfeiting continues to spread, an even more serious consequence is the general loss of confidence in companies that nevertheless create jobs and added value. At the national level, counterfeiting forces governments to invest heavily in the fight against fakes while losing out on tax revenues, and takes away employment opportunities. Finally, the phenomenal amounts of money generated by counterfeiting go on to benefit the criminal organizations and terrorist groups that reign over this illicit trade, where child labor is commonplace and health and safety standards are openly flouted. Faced with a scourge that undermines companies and countries alike, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry has joined forces with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie to launch a vast information campaign aimed at the general public. Named “Fake Watches are for Fake People,” the campaign is featured in the international media that are supporting this initiative. If we must admit that this campaign is compulsory for the industry parallel to the huge efforts made by a few brands and especially Rolex — which is probably the most counterfeited brand and has invested in past years big amounts of money to defend its products — the fact is that one cannot nurture illusions regarding the real impact of the campaign on the public. The message and concept delivered by the advertising visual is not strong while the target knows generally the matter. If we have doubts about the efficiency of this campaign, let’s admit that its authors have to show that they struggle and defend the political interest of the watch industry. Can they do it any other way? No, as the counterfeiters are generally based in Asia and often linked to the highest authorities (military, among others). This means the watch industry and the victims of counterfeit products know already that the sun will continue to shine for fakes. Buying through the official retail channels and official authorized retailers, besides offering you the best service and expertise, provides you with the highest warranty. Buy real! Buy Swiss Made!

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the legend forged from icons ROLEX DAYTONA

by Noah Joseph

The Rolex Sports Car Series has kicked off another season of motorsport in America. Its unique prototype racing cars share their name with one of the most iconic circuits in the world and the very icon of the driver’s watch. But their champions leap off the silver screen and into the cockpit to forge legends. Icons come in many shapes and sizes. Particularly great driving icons, like Daytona International Speedway, the late great Paul Newman, and Rolex. But what binds these three icons together is the stuff of legends. Located on northern Florida’s Atlantic coast, Daytona International Speedway ranks among the great race tracks in America (from Indianapolis to Laguna Seca) and indeed the world (from the Nurburgring to Suzuka). But while it’s known primarily for the headline event of the NASCAR Sprint Cup stock car series, Daytona is also home to a more intriguing form of motorsport unique to North America. The Rolex Sports Car Series is similar in format to events like Le Mans and the FIA GT championships, with racing prototypes and GTs competing in various classes. What sets the Rolex series apart, however is the formula set out for its prototypes. While the previous class of Sports Racing Prototypes were similar to Le Mans Prototypes, the increasing speeds and costs of the LMPs prompted the Grand American Road Racing Association to issue their own formula, known as Daytona Prototypes. While other American racing series like IndyCar and NASCAR approve a single chassis and a handful of engine packages for teams to choose from, Grand Am’s Rolex Series issues the formula and approves a variety of manufacturers

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ROLEX DAYTONA 91

to participate, closely regulated by the governing body. Tubular steel chassis are provided by various specialty racing car constructors, powered by 5-liter V8 engines furnished by a series of major automobile manufacturers including BMW, Porsche, Nissan/Infiniti, Toyota/Lexus, Honda, Ford and General Motors. Races in the Rolex series take place at tracks across the United States – including the famed Watkins Glen and the vaunted Laguna Seca – and in recent years have even raced at the Circuit Gilles Villenueve in Montreal, home to Formula One’s Canadian Grand Prix. The headline event, however, is the 24 Hours of Daytona – also known as the Rolex 24 at Daytona – a round-the-clock endurance race to rival Sebring or Le Mans. Held every year since 1962, the race long precedes the formation of the series, and has been won over the decades by such notable racers as Dan Gurney, Andy Wallace, Al Unser (senior and junior), Mario Andretti, Jacky Ickx, Juan Pablo Montoya and Switzerland’s own Jo Siffert and Fredy Lienhard. The race kicks off not only the season for the Rolex Series, but is also the first major event on the American racing calendar following the winter break. This year’s event was held the last weekend in January, and was won by Action Express Racing, fielding an international team of drivers from Portugal (João Barbosa), the United States (Terry Borcheller), the United Kingdom (Ryan Dalziel) and Germany (Mike Rockenfeller), driving a Porsche-powered Riley MkVI. They narrowly beat out the Chip Ganassi team of Max Papis, Scott Pruett, Memo Rojas and Justin Wilson driving the same chassis under BMW power, while the rotary-powered SpeedSource Mazda RX-8 took top honours in the GT class. The series and its headline race are title-sponsored by the iconic Swiss watchmaker Rolex, a brand with deep ties in motorsports. The connection between Daytona and Rolex, however, extends beyond the racing series. While the iconic timekeeper offers a variety of diving, sailing and golf watches, only one chronograph anchors its range: the Cosmograph Daytona. And while it may not have been a popular seller back in the day, it’s grown to become both a favorite of collectors and the epitome of the driver’s watch. Like the TAG Heuer Monaco was popularized by Steve McQueen, so did the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona have a standard-bearer. An actor with a taste for motor racing, renowned and admired in his lifetime and fondly missed since his passing. Although Paul Newman – who sadly succumbed to lung cancer less than two years ago – was best known for his acting, he is also remembered for his philanthropy and community service. But like McQueen before him, his real passion was for racing. Right from his first taste, Newman proved a talented race driver. He amassed considerable victories in the Sports Car Club of America and went on in 1979 to finish second at Le Mans driving a Porsche 935. Upon his foray into motor racing in 1972, Newman’s wife Joanne Woodward gave him a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, and from an observer’s standpoint, you’d swear he never took it off. In fact the man and the machine became so intertwined that a certain style of the chrono became known by his name. As if to further cement the tie, Newman took a GT class win at the 1995 24 Hours of Daytona, and ten years later, before the sad end of his career, he would be destined to repeat the feat.

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

While Newman, like McQueen before him, has passed from the realm of the living to that of legend, their spirit carries on in a new generation of actor-racers. Arguably chief among them is Patrick Dempsey, a film and television actor, star of the popular Greyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Anatomy program. Far away from the studio, Dempsey has co-owned several racing teams and has driven in a number of major motorsport events, including Le Mans, the Baja 1000 off-road race and, perhaps most poignantly, the Rolex Sports Car Series. Coupled with his charity work in the pursuit of a cure for cancer, Dempsey looks poised to pick up the mantle erected and adorned by the likes of Newman and McQueen.

Drivers and actors will come and go. But like the enduring Rolex Cosmograph Daytona and the Rolex 24 at Daytona, the legend forged from icons will live on.

ROLEX DAYTONA 93

sm real estate

rocksresort

An attractive investment

Located in Switzerland’s leading freestyle resort, rocksresort is an architecturally striking new ski village with contemporary two- and four-bedroom apartments. The apartments are located in cubeshaped buildings that are finished in rough-hewn stone, making a strong design statement. The complex also features a 85-room boutique hotel, various shops and restaurants, all arranged around a central square. many attractive benefits First of all, with apartments available on a „buy-touse-and-let“ basis, purchasers can enjoy a generous three weeks personal use during winter high season (from December to April), with the option to purchase additional weeks at just 25% of the list price, and unlimited occupation for the rest of the year. Secondly, the buying process is more efficient than in other cantons as the development is located in Graubϋnden, which does not suffer from the excess demand challenges that delay permits in other areas. Thirdly, rocksresort offers profitable opportunities for apartment owners. Its developer, Weisse Arena Gruppe, is a privately owned tourism and leisure company running virtually the whole winter resort of LAAX, including hotels, restaurants, cable cars, ski and snowboard schools and rentals. Thus the developer has a natural interest in LAAX which enables it to offer a unique leaseback scheme: based on a dynamic pricing and pooling system, owners receive a guaranteed monthly rental income.

rocksresort offers an unbeatable combination for today’s market of plentiful personal use, excellent pricing and a compelling rental model in a secure, stable destination. Over a five to ten year period, owners can expect a 3-4% net rental return - versus an average of circa 2.5% per annum in Switzerland, and a steady rise in the value of their property. Furthermore all of the rocksresort apartments meet the minimum energy (MINERGIE) standard, adding additional value to the properties. This means you do not only save in energy costs but also the value of the apartments is maintained for longer compared to a conventional building. Ready for occupation, rocksresort aims to provide the highest levels of service and convenience. Whilst enjoying the freedom of a spacious apartment, holiday makers have access to the same services as in a luxury hotel, including housekeeping, catering and even childcare and restaurant reservations. Ski and snowboard hire, lift tickets and lessons can also be arranged all in one go. And with the base station located adjacent to the development, rocksresort also offers a complete ski-in/ ski-out experience. Finally, owners receive exclusive rocksresort membership which entitles to a number of attractive benefits. For example rocksresort owners receive a family ticket providing access to all lifts in the area, both summer and winter, the use of fast lanes on all lifts and cable cars, invitations to special events, free parking and use of the wellness facilities in the resort. And when owners are not in residence they need not worry about anything, as Weisse Arena Gruppe will let and maintain the apartments on their behalf. Prices at rocksresort range from CHF 521,000 for a two-bedroom apartment to CHF 1 million for a four-bedroom apartment.

www.rocksresort.com

DELUXEMADE SWISS Swissmagazine Made magazine DELUXE

Picture the perfect art getaway. We’ll frame it for you.

Welcome to the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois. We offer you a full palette of time-honoured luxuries and contemporary comforts. One of Europe’s oldest grand hotels, with beginnings that date to 1681, it remains loyal to its traditions while fully embracing the modern: you’ll find all the sophisticated amenities today’s discerning traveller expects. From its privileged position overlooking the Rhine in the heart of Basel, the hotel affords art lovers easy access to more than 30 museums, from the classic Kunstmuseum Basel and the world-renown Fondation Beyeler to the quirky Tinguely Museum. Refined comforts and personalized service create a masterpiece of the hotelier’s art for you. At Basel’s only grand hotel: Les Trois Rois.

Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois Blumenrain 8 CH-4001 Basel Switzerland Phone +41 61 260 50 50 Fax +41 61 260 50 60 www.lestroisrois.com info@lestroisrois.com A S PIRIT HOTEL

sm events Museum Rietberg: Teotihuacan - Mysterious City of Pyramids Zürich

Feb 21, 2010 - May 30, 2010 Teotihuacan was once the largest city in pre-Columbian America, a cosmopolitan metropolis with unique monumental structures. Between 100 and 650 AD, a good 1000 years before the Aztecs, the city was a cultural and economic superpower that influenced the entire Mesoamerican sphere. With this grand special exhibition in 2010, Mexico is celebrating the 200th anniversary of its independence and the 100th anniversary of the Mexican Revolution. The exhibition presents some 450 artefacts from Mexico: colourful murals, precious clay vessels, stone sculptures, figures cut from obsidian, and wonderful jewellery. www.rietberg.ch

Jean-Michel Basquiat Basel Sunday, May 9, 2010 - Sunday, Sep 5, 2010 Basquiat’s works are imbued with the same intensity and energy that characterized his short life. In the space of only eight years, in a way reminiscent of Egon Schiele, he succeeded in creating an all-encompassing oeuvre, and in establishing new figurative and expressive elements at a time when conceptual and minimal art dominated the scene. The Fondation Beyeler in Basel is devoting a large retrospective to the American artist Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960–1988), who tragically died at only 27. The unique artistic development and art historical significance of Basquiat will be traced with 100 major works from American and European museums and private collections. www.beyeler.com

ART Basel Basel

Jun 16, 2010 - Sunday, Jun 20, 2010 Art Basel offers art from the 20th and 21st centuries, and is undisputedly considered the most important world fair of the international art market. Over 300 carefully selected exhibitors from the world’s most important galleries turn the fairground into the most important museum on time. Artists, art collectors and many prominent figures from the cultural scene meet on these days in Basel. www.artbasel.com

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Rare Fruits Bern Zentrum Paul Klee Monument im Fruchtland 3 3006 Bern

Paradise Switzerland Zürich Museum für Gestaltung Ausstellungsstr. 60 Zürich

Saturday, Mar 13, 2010 - Sunday, Sep 5, 2010 In its exhibition entitled “Paul Klee. Rare Fruits” the Zentrum Paul Klee highlights rarely seen treasures from his collection and for the very first time will be presenting works which allow us to see Klee’s creations in a new light - far removed from the usual clichés and fixed pictures. The exhibition invites visitors to go on a chronological theme - based journey of discovery through unfamiliar and unknown facets of Klee’s works.

Wednesday, Mar 17, 2010 - Sunday, Jul 25, 2010 The poster exhibition “Paradise Switzerland” examines the myth of Switzerland and brings together distinctive examples of advertising from 1900 until today into a visual dialogue. This shows how the pictorial worlds appear in advertising as facets of Swissness and shape the image of Switzerland, but also how they can be impaired but nevertheless continue to be of service.

www.museum-gestaltung.ch

Swiss Press Photo 09 Schwyz Forum der Schweizer Geschichte Hofmatt 6431 Schwyz

Saturday, Mar 20, 2010 / 10:00 - 17:00 CET - Sunday, Apr 18, 2010 The Espace Media prize for press photography will be awarded for the 19th time in 2009. The exhibition includes images in a number of categories: current events, everyday and environment, portrait, art and culture, sport, and foreign. It will feature the best press photographs from competition participants as well as the winners in each Swiss Press category.

www.forumschwyz.ch

Switzerland as energy centre and sanatorium. Zürich Schweizerisches Landesmuseum Museumstrasse 2 www.landesmuseum.ch

Kunstmuseum: Gabriel Orozco Basel Kunstmuseum Basel St. Alban-Graben 16 Basel

Friday, Mar 26, 2010 - Sunday, Aug 15, 2010 This exhibition is dedicated to Switzerland’s reputation as a paradise of health. Starting with Paracelsus’ theory of thermal waters and Albert von Haller’s «Ode to the Alps», it then leads visitors to historical key points such as the famous Monte Verita colony in Canton Ticino, the equally famous Bircher-Benner clinic in Zurich or the sanatoriums of Davos and Leysin.

Sunday, Apr 18, 2010 - Sunday, Aug 8, 2010 In a retrospective, the Kunstmusem Basel presents the installations, sculptures, photographies, paintings and drawings of Mexican artist, Gabriel Orozco. The exhibit, which was first held at the Museum of Modern Art, will travel through Basel and will be exhibited in Paris and London.

www.kunstmuseumbasel.ch

Klee meets Picasso Bern Zentrum Paul Klee Monument im Fruchtland 3 3006 Bern www.zpk.org

Sunday, Jun 6, 2010 - Sunday, Sep 26, 2010 Paul Klee and Pablo Picasso are regarded as modern art’s exact opposites - the one being romantic and spiritual, the other being Mediterranean and focussed on the here and now. Klee’s poetry and his tendency to use satire and irony contrasted sharply with Picasso’s drama, sensuality and pathos. Yet as different as they were, they were contemporaries who participated in the same artistic and historical events of their age.

ART EXHIBITIONS 97

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DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

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Whether amidst the impressive mountain landscape in Arosa or alongside the sparkling lake in Ascona, whether at 1,800 or 200 metres altitude, whether hiking, waterskiing or simply just relaxing – enjoy your springtime break in Ticino, a wellness weekend or even your summer holidays in one of the top-class establishments of the Tschuggen Hotel Group. Spa break in the Hotel Eden Roc Ascona: Three nights’ accommodation including breakfast, dine around and pampering programme in the new Eden Roc Spa with facial, pedicure and massage from CHF 1200 (EUR 774) per person (available from April to mid-June and from the end of September to Christmas). Spa days in the Tschuggen Grand Hotel Arosa: Three nights’ accommodation including breakfast, dine around and pampering programme in the Tschuggen Bergoase with facial, spa massage and sea salt bath from CHF 1105 (EUR 713) per person (available throughout the summer and autumn season). Pampering days for you and your partner in the Sporthotel Valsana Arosa: Two nights’ accommodation including breakfast and fourcourse dîner, one-hour facial, manicure and part-body massage from CHF 995 (EUR 664) per person (available throughout the summer season).

LIFESTYLE PUR

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