DELUXE Swiss Made Spring 2012

The luxury lifestyle magazine devoted to Excellence

CHF 10 / USD 9 / EUR 7

www.swissmademagazine.com

TOGETHER, WE’RE BUILDING HIS FUTURE Since Andre Agassi retired from professional tennis, he hasn’t stopped pursuing excellence. Founding and inspiring the Andre Agassi Foundation for Education and the Andre Agassi College Preparatory Academy. To give underprivileged children a chance to receive an education, learn a trade and build a life.

Longines is happy to help. It funded the Longines Scholarship Fund for Agassi Prep Graduates. Allowing gifted and motivated youngsters to learn a trade with a future, at the N.G. Hayek Watchmaking School.

Elegance is an attitude

The Longines Saint-Imier Collection

www.longines.com

Andre Agassi

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Dear Readers, Spring is back! And so is a new edition of DELUXE dedicated to time.

Time, the most precious gift we can receive or give. Time, the one thing we all share and can only spend, so better spend it well.

Time to enjoy, time to read, time to relax, time to indulge. A priceless gift we can measure but cannot keep.

Determined and talented Swiss watchmakers have spent their valuable time bringing new and revolutionary ways to read time on your wrist. They offer a wonderful and rich variety to please your discerning taste and enthrall your eyes with sophisticated esthetics and craftsmanship. While we couldn’t bring you all the wonders we have seen at once, we present in these pages a first selection of what to look for the next time you shop for a watch.

We also wanted to give you better insight into what’s behind the dial, what makes certain timepieces so valuable and precious and how they are tested to resist tough conditions and keep their beat going for generations.

As fascinating as time is, timepieces also represent an expression of our own personality, and Hollywood has understood this for a while now. Watches on the silver

screen have fascinated moviegoers since Rudolph Valentino wore his Cartier tank in “The Son of the Sheik,” just as his handsome face mesmerized his adoring fans.

In the article “In a Different Light,” photographer Michael Tighe opens up with DELUXE Swiss Made about his opportunities to meet and portray many icons of our time. He gives us an exclusive look into his life and work, from his beginnings with Andy Warhol to an “incredible” encounter with Muhammad Ali. “Time to give” is a recurrent section of our magazine as we think it is important to remember those less fortunate. Notable initiatives we present in this issue are the Andrea Bocelli Foundation and Rock the Kasbah by Eve and Richard Branson, who took the time to answer our questions in personal interviews.

Springtime is a good excuse to further indulge your senses, from bathtubs designed for your well-being to gourmet menus created to please your palate while you sip wine on a sunny terrace, always sporting your favourite watch on your wrist.

Enjoy your reading. Time is luxury, so savour every moment!

IMPRESSUM Editor Massimiliano Pantieri

Office Operations Manager Mara Carboni

Creative Art Director Sherry Williams

Proofreader Susan Robinson

Sub-Editor Chinese Sally Jaeggin

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Contributors Claudia Laffranchi Keith W. Strandberg Noah Joseph Sally Jaeggin Sherry Williams Susan Robinson Lisa Marks

Editorial office Swiss Made Magazine cp 124 6517 Arbedo Switzerland

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 Timepieces.

Velero Automatic Chronograph, Swiss Made, precise self -winding mechanical movement –

one of men‘s favourite essentials.

sm index

66 52

66

42

94

90 46

70 26

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

12

Ambassador 42

Deepika Padukone for Tissot

Watchmaking 12 Horological Temptations

Innovation 20

Close encounters of the Third Kind

Heritage

38

26 Independent Watchmakers

Craftsmanship 32 Finishing Strong - attention to details

Art 46 The Signs of the Times

Fashion 50 Smart Luxury by Gc

32 86 12

Photoshoot 52 A night after Ballet by Martin Kunert

12

Hollywood 66

Watches on the Silver screen

Close-Up 70

Michael Tighe exclusive interview

Time to Give 38

Andrea Bocelli Foundation

80 Rock the Kasbah

82

Exclusive 82 Richard Branson

Gourmet 86 Culinary Delights by Salvatore Frequente

Design 90 Bagno Sasso

Watch Testing 94 Holding the Beat

INDEX 9

sm watchmaking

Horological Temptations Devoted to excellence, watchmakers in Switzerland are restless and committed to develop and bring new and exciting watches for the always more descerning clients and aficionados. In these pages we bring you a preview of what to look for in 2012.

Cartier Grand Complication Skeleton pocket watch, calibre 9436 MC: an ode to transparency To dare to be different in fine watchmaking is an art in its own right, and braving convention is sometimes a sign of luxury. For a man who feels very much at home in the world of today, to carry a Cartier Grand Complication Skeleton pocket watch reveals an approach to life in which the grace of every movement closely reflects the relationship he maintains with time and with the objects designed to convey it. It is an invitation to all those watch lovers for whom looking to the past is a way of finding inspiration for the present.

For over 500 years, a chain remained the only way to wear a watch but has long since become a vestige of a bygone age. And yet, when one stops to think about it, the pocket watch offers a welcome alternative to the conformity of the times and enables all those watch lovers who chafe against routine to rediscover a form of ceremony that is guaranteed to make one stand out from the crowd.

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With its well-balanced features, this watch designed for carrying in one’s pocket gives a first intimation of its force of attraction in its generous diameter measuring 59.2 mm. Solidly installed in the hollow of one’s hand, the proportions of this watch echo those of the exceptional timepieces created by Cartier for some of its most illustrious clients in the late 19th century. These exceptional dimensions give pride of place to its magnificent calibre inserted amid the delicate display of open-work Roman numerals cut away and carefully fashioned from the solid white gold of the watch’s case.

The watch’s manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding, identified by the reference 9436 MC, is immediately seen on both faces of this pebble-shaped timepiece, benefiting from the two delicately curved sapphire crystals to expose in total transparency the carefully mounted workings of its plate, its bridges and its train, and thus revealing the main part of what it is physically possible to see of all the movement’s mechanical complexity.

WATCHMAKING 13

AEROWATCH

CHOPARD

BALL WATCH

Renaissance Black Tornado With its statement looks and the imposing diameter of its black PVD steel case, the Renaissance Black Tornado - even this finely skeletonised - doesn’t go unnoticed.

The architecture is modern, with fine circular chasing on the black NAC-coated movement. The dial has been removed to reveal the mainspring’s fascinating coils, and the rotation of the different wheels as they mesh. Technical, elegant and contemporary, this new creation from Aerowatch appeals as much to aficionados of authentic mechanisms as to fans of finely crafted Swiss watches at an attractive price.

L.U.C. Quattro Chopard presents the L.U.C Quattro, a new showcase for its prestigious L.U.C 98.01-L manufacture movement with four barrels. The refined details of the generous 43 mm case in pink gold bring timeless sophistication, while the curve of the redesigned horns ensures masculine, contemporary appeal. The hands that sweep the silver-toned dial adopt a new, dauphine-inspired form. The lettering is different too, along with the 1960s styling of the Roman numerals. The caseband has been treated to a satin finish, while the bezel and back are polished. A handstitched brown alligator strap brings the final flourish to this elegant new allure.

Trainmaster Worldtime Chronograph This watch associates day and date functions with a 24 time-zone display.

Coupled with an ETA 7750 movement, an additional module drives a disc engraved with the names of the world’s main cities, automatically rotating counter-clockwise in order to provide a simultaneous indication of the time along 24 longitudes. The emblematic luminescent hourmarkers and hands equipped with the signature Ball Watch micro gas tubes ensure peerless readability. This masculine, cutting-edge and sturdy timepiece also radiates an elegant sense of understatement and clearly meets an impressive range of technically and aesthetic demands.

< BVLGARI Papillon Voyageur An exclusive timepiece with an essential feature for inveterate travellers: a second time zone.

Graduated over 24 hours, the local hour appears in a vertical window at 12 o’clock by means of a jumping display. The second time zone is indicated by a central, openwork hand that sweeps a guilloché disc, also graduated over 24 hours. Minutes are read from the Papillon® mechanism. Positioned in the centre of the dial, it counts the minutes on a bearing disc.

Two independent and pivoting lozenge-shaped hands move across two 180° segments in turn.

One measures the 60 minutes in the hour while the other counts ten-minute increments.

99-piece limited series.

BREITLING Chronomat 44 GMT > Breitling presents the Chronomat GMT in a new 44 mm diameter. In addition to its slightly smaller size, this new version stands out for the rotating bezel which displays a third time zone over 24 hours. The Breitling 04 calibre – COSC-certified and developed and manufactured entirely

by Breitling – ensures unprecedented ease of use. Breitling achieves what travellers everywhere have dreamed of: to move instantly to the time and date of their destination, and continue to keep time in their home city over 24 hours, with no loss of precision in the minute display.

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BLANCPAIN Villeret Collection Blancpain brings an original note to its Villeret Collection in 2012, with a retrograde small seconds to whet the appetite! This most classic of the brand’s collections welcomes its first model to feature a flinqué lacquered dial while preserving its pure lines.

Multiple layers of translucent blue lacquer are applied to the dial to create an impression of incomparable depth. Housed inside the 40-mm white gold case, the ultra-slim 7663Q calibre offers a 3-day power reserve. This new automatic movement displays hours, minutes and date, shown by a central serpentine pointer, with retrograde seconds at 6 o’clock. Fast date adjustment is by the under-horn corrector at 5 o’clock. A demonstration of subtle balance that is the epitome of Blancpain’s savoir-faire.

WATCHMAKING 15

PETER TANISMAN – Carrousel “Black Attitude” Immediately identifiable by its sheer volume as well as by its fine curving line and unique cylinder, the Carrousel by Peter Tanisman is an authentic work of art. In this version, black sets the tone from case to strap, while the monochrome dial is enlivened by the hours and minutes indicated by silver-toned hands. The even more luminous carrousel at 6 o’clock is adorned with a sunburst guilloché motif and set with two diamonds.

CORUM – Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 Mystery Moon A mother-of-pearl dial which, as it spins, carries moon and sun in its wake: undoubtedly, Corum has produced a masterstroke with this watch for women.

The entire dial, cloaked in engraved white or black mother-of-pearl, rotates around its centre and, as it does, advances the window onto the new date in jumps while carrying the moon phase counter. The bezel is set with 72 diamonds.

CUERVO Y SOBRINOS Historiador Pequeños Segundos 130° Aniversario Prestigious watchmaker Cuervo y Sobrinos celebrates its 130th anniversary with the Historiador Pequeños Segundos 130° Aniversario.

This splendid, extra-thin timepiece in pink gold instills Swiss quality with Latin soul. It is also a heartfelt tribute to Havana, the birthplace of the brand and a bustling city where, in the early 19th century, intellectuals rubbed shoulders with seafaring adventurers. Cuervo y Sobrinos commemorates this milestone with a classic timepiece characterised by studied sobriety: an ageless masterpiece. The movement is hand-wound, the dial velvety black. Seconds sweep a counter at 6 o’clock, flanked by the years 1882 and 2012. The first three hours are materialised by the symbolic numerals 1, 3 and 0. A shining tribute to as many years of horological tradition, Latin-style. Proposed as a 130-piece limited series.

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DAVIDOFF Velero GMT The magic of time is eternal and the magic of a perfect timepiece even more so. The “Velero” GMT combines technical precision with contemporary aesthetics; a winning combination of elegance and functionality. Available in four variations: with a stainless steel or red gold PVD-treated case, fitted with a black or brown alligator strap and a black or ivory-toned dial.

CHANEL - The “Première Flying Tourbillon” On the 25th anniversary of CHANEL’s first watch the Première, whose shape was inspired by the octagonal geometry of the No. 5 perfume bottle stopper and the Place Vendôme, Chanel offers women the opportunity to enter into the world of high mechanical complications. Appropriately, this feminine incursion into the universe of watchmaking complexity is just as mysterious as it is beautiful and poetic.

This exceptional Tourbillon, developed in close collaboration between Chanel and the Swiss manufacturers, engineers and master watchmakers Renaud & Papi (APRP SA) – the advanced research and development branch of Audemars Piguet – is a first for both companies.

Decorated with the motif of the camellia, a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite flower, this flying Tourbillon beats away discreetly and almost secretly at the heart of the Première watch. The floral design creates a delicate texture with the use of interlocked petals and a heart that is paved with diamonds.

The flying Tourbillon makes one rotation per minute, with the petals indicating the seconds. Equipped with a power reserve of 40 hours, this movement (“Camélia Flying Tourbillon” Caliber) has been mounted on a custom-designed rectangular bottom plate. All the finishes and parts that are chamfered, drawn and circulargrained by hand, adhere to the highest Swiss watchmaking traditions.

The case, the bezel and the crown are set entirely with baguette-cut or roundcut diamonds or precious stones. Produced in a limited edition of 20 numbered pieces, the “Première Flying Tourbillon” in 18-carat white gold is set with 101 baguette-cut diamonds for a total of 5.2 carats, and 127 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of 2 carats.

WATCHMAKING 17

MIDO Multifort Chronograph Riveted steel and aerodynamic lines reminiscent of 1930s industrial design: the new Multifort by Mido clearly displays its origins. Equipped with a Valjoux 7750 based movement, this decidedly technical chronograph also boldly asserts uncompromising aesthetic choices through its 44 mm case, black dial adorned with finely satinbrushed platelets, hands and hourmarkers enhanced with white Superluminova, transparent back and stainless steel bracelet. This new benchmark in terms of rigorous reliability exudes a sporting and sophisticated aura that is bound to appeal to devotees of Swiss fine watchmaking.

DUBEY & SCHALDEBRAND Grand Dôme DT Vintage 1946 Recognisable at a glance with its tonneau case and the vertical arrangement of the different functions on the dial, the chronograph adopts an elegantly vintage design. The harmonious curves of the imposing 37 x 52 mm case are unchanged, matched with the Valjoux 7751 calibre to power date, day, month and moon phases. The movement is now delicately hand-engraved and embellished with the coat of arms from the Swiss village Les Ponts-de-Martel, where the brand originates. The dial is an expanse of ivory colour for purity and discretion. A journey back to historic and aesthetic origins for this 65-piece limited series.

< VICTORINOX Time Vision Urban and stylish, the new Night Vision remains, like its predecessors, a multi-functional instrument of extreme utility. The dynamic new upgrade sharpens the overall design. The new edition builds upon the original’s exclusive design features — the integration in a watch of low consumption LED light modules for dial illumination, flashlight and strobe functions.

The difference, however, is the new seductively streamlined appearance, which seamlessly incorporates advanced lighting features into the classic codes of a Swiss watch.

EMILE CHOURIET Léman Collection > The Léman collection by Emile Chouriet tells the story of this virtuoso enameller, who left France to set up his workshop in Switzerland.

It is a tribute to Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) and to the elegance of Geneva which looks out over its blue waters, and whose ambassadors are its art, culture and gastronomy. An atmosphere of Riviera chic, epitomised in this classic, precious timepiece in which warm pink gold encloses a mechanical movement.

Hours, minutes and seconds float by on a sober white or black dial.

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HANHART Pioneer Stealth 1882 For its 130th anniversary, Hanhart presents the Pioneer Stealth 1882 in two versions, each a 130-piece limited series. This new timepiece is a worthy successor to the brand’s legendary pilot’s chronographs of the 1930s, but with technically and aesthetically noteworthy additions to the dial. The two chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock are positioned at the outermost contour of the imposing dial, thanks to an exclusive reworking of the movement. Furthermore, the disc at 9 o’clock incorporates both small seconds and the 12-hour counter. A flyback function, telemeter scale and red pusher are the ultimate references to Hanhart’s legendary timers. As for the smooth or fluted bezel … that’s your call!

JAEGER LeCOULTRE Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon The Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon is a truly original model uniting peerless technical performance, elegance and a spectacular complication, thereby meeting the expectations of the most demanding connoisseurs and collectors.

Above and beyond its exemplary reliability, the chief characteristic of this Sphérotourbillon watch, the fourth exceptional model in the Duomètre line, is its tourbillon.

Initially devised for pocket watches, the traditional tourbillon does not serve to compensate for the effects of gravity in all positions. An additional rotation axis must be added to achieve a three-dimensional rotation movement and thus prove itself more effective in all positions that a wristworn watch may adopt. The openworked dial provides a fascinating view of the tourbillon performing an extremely unusual rotation movement. As well as revolving around the axis of its titanium carriage, the tourbillon also spins around a second axis, inclined at a 20° angle. The combination of these two distinct and fast rotations (respectively 30 and 15 seconds per revolution) serves to free the watch from the effects of gravity.

The carriage machined from a single block of titanium features a combination of lightness and extreme precision. The cylindrical balance-spring with its two terminal curves beats with a concentricity impossible to achieve with a traditional balance-spring. The balance with its generous inertia oscillates at a cadence of 21,600 vibrations per hour. The balance-spring stud-holder is protected by a screw-locking system from the effects of shocks and vibrations to which the watch is subjected.

For enhanced visual pleasure, a transparent caseback provides an admirable “backstage” view of the intricate working of the hand-assembled and decorated movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 382.

A striking design, a unique function and an aura of refinement in harmony with the finest watchmaking traditions: the new Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon combines all these ingredients. This Grande Complication model vividly demonstrates that it is in fact possible to combine technical performances, discreet aesthetic elegance and spectacular horological complexity.

WATCHMAKING 19

sm complications

Close encounters of the Third kind We knew about clepsydras or water clocks. The oldest found thus far dates back to the age of the pharaohs.

It took 3,400 years to overcome the force of gravity and indicate the time with a liquid in a mechanical wristwatch.

Many have dreamt of it – HYT has done it.

An encounter between Fine Watchmaking and fluid mechanics. One might say a utopia. Shattering all certainties, steamrollering conformity, the idea that led to the H1 was simple and consisted of two flexible reservoirs fixed to each end of a capillary. In one was an aqueous liquid filled with fluorescein, and in the other, a transparent viscous liquid. To keep them separate: the repulsive force of the molecules in each liquid, with a meniscus to mark the boundary between the two.

Two reservoirs sit at 06:00: while the first compresses, the second expands, and the other way round, resulting in the movement of the liquid in the capillary. As the hours go by, the fluorescent liquid advances. The meniscus, in the shape of a half moon, marks the breaking point with the other fluid in the tube, indicating the time. At 18:00, the fluorescent liquid comes back to its original position, going backward. The secret that gets the reservoirs going? Two bellows made of a highly resistant, flexible electro-deposited alloy, each driven by a piston. And this is where watchmaking comes in to activate the system.

A mechanical movement to activate the hydro system The main challenge lay in finding an interface between the mechanical movement and the hydro system in a closed, waterproof circuit – a task further complicated by the limited space available to house them both. They had to be assembled separately to keep them independent, and then made to operate simultaneously. While the basic idea is simple, realising it is highly complex.

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Watchmaking exploration and nanotechnology The challenge: develop liquids that obey a set of watchmaking specifications. Colour, homogenous texture, resistant to vibrations, shocks and temperature changes, no alteration in the long term, foolproof water resistance. Needs that require the development of a number of innovations. Up till now, seven patents have been registered for the technology and one for the design. This was a steep plunge into the unknown, which led to technical watchmaking feats bordering on nanotechnologies.

Mastering the energy requirements Hydraulic force means pressure. When the fluorescein-loaded liquid has done a complete round and gets to 06:00 – 18:00, the issuing pump compresses, while the bellows receiver expands, generating resistance and consequently an increased energy requirement. To fix this, Preciflex developed revolutionary bellows made from an extremely fine alloy and which are highly supple and resistant. They are in fact inspired by the sensors used by NASA and their design had to be adapted to watchmaking requirements. Their specially researched shape allows for the reduction of energy required for their compression, absorbs shocks and ensures rock solid waterproofing.

HYT H1 - The taut, aggressive design by Sébastien Perret dictates the testosterone-laden nature of the H1. At 02.30, a 65-hour power-reserve hand indicates the remaining energy available across three arcs of a circle. And meanwhile, the fluids follow their course around the case. This “monster” measuring 48.8 mm in diameter and 17.9 mm thick nonetheless sits impressively lightly and well on the wrist. The notches in its caseband visually extend the applied baignoire-type hour-markers, while the crown dovetails at 02:30, as is thrust against the case by its sturdy crown guard.

INNOVATIONS 21

Histoire de Tourbillon 3

by Harry Winston No machine on Earth demonstrates time quite like the tourbillon. Indeed it could be the most sophisticated physical depiction of an abstract notion ever developed by man. This hypnotic, rotating and oscillating mechanical world reveals multiple facets of time: its unfailing regularity, its intricacy, its inevitability and a culture of time measurement as old as humanity.

In its Histoire de Tourbillon collection, Harry Winston recognizes the tourbillon as a medium of artistic expression unique in scope, depth and subject — a work of art that shows you not only the time, but the nature of time itself. Mathematicians, engineers, craftsmen, philosophers and designers combine to challenge the laws of physics by creating a mechanical dance that unveils time’s tantalizing secrets. The third series in Harry Winston’s exploration of the tourbillon choreographs two rotating escapements that guide the time unscathed through the pitfalls of gravity.

Three tourbillons are in action, each rotating at different speeds to perform distinct gravity-defying functions. Two of them are nested one inside the other to rotate the fourth dimension of time through the three dimensions of space. In this biaxial tourbillon, one tourbillon carriage rotates every 40 seconds within a second carriage going around in 120 seconds on an axis perpendicular to the first. This ensures that the vibrating balance moves through every possible plane in relation to the field of gravity to average out positional errors.

The third tourbillon carriage rotates a separate balance on a single axis in the conventional way, but at the relatively high speed of one revolution every 36 seconds. This tourbillon is most effective when the watch is in a vertical position, and by rotating the balance quickly it minimizes its exposure to the effects of gravity. For even greater precision, the two regulating systems are connected through a differential gear that gives an average of their two rates.

Uniting three tourbillions and two escapements with different properties in terms of mass, rotational velocity and inertia proved to be a delicate exercise in the balance of power. For example,

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the double tourbillon system has to be made as light as possible using titanium and aluminum alloys so that it does not consume a disproportionate amount of power at the expense of the single tourbillon.

The watchcase, engineered to display the tourbillon systems to their best advantage, is unlike any other. The complex architecture is constructed of 77 parts in white gold and non-reflecting sapphire crystals with the caseband and lugs in Zalium®, a hard and ultralight zirconium alloy. Developed for use in jet engines, its non-allergenic properties and extreme resistance to corrosion make it ideal for watchcases.

The fluid outlines of the tourbillon housing in polished white gold contrast sharply with the rectangular rigidity of the lower case displaying the indications. Even the Harry Winston triple-arch motifs on the lugs have been squared off. Lustrous finishes — surfaces brushed to a silky texture, gleaming chamfers and the matt battleship grey of the Zalium® — set off the bold outlines of this extraordinary architecture.

The hours and minutes are shown on discs rotating against their respective markers, and the seconds on a scale around the bi-axial tourbillon. Harry Winston shows off its flair with gemstones by using sapphires and citrines to indicate the power reserve. Eleven colorgraded blue sapphires from dark to pale show the power left in the mainspring. The markers for the hours and minutes are color-matched with the gemstones. When the six yellow citrines appear against the marker, it’s time to wind up the watch.

Only 20 of each tourbillon artwork in the Histoire de Tourbillon collection are produced.

Each model takes the evolution of this fascinating machine a step further to reveal more of the secret workings of time.

INNOVATIONS 23

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BASELWORLD – The World Watch and Jewellery Show Where Business begins and Trends are created Discover innovations, gather information on trends and forge valuable personal contacts BASELWORLD offers the ideal platform for all of these. This, the world’s biggest and most important event for the watch and jewellery industry, is being held in Basel (Switzerland) from March 8 to 15, 2012.

For 40 years now, outstanding creations have been presented to an international public on an annual basis at the World Watch and Jewellery Show. Innovative concepts and novel designs are also to be expected at the forthcoming BASELWORLD. For a total of eight days, Basel will turn into the hotspot of the watch and jewellery industry: some 1,800 exhibitors from 45 countries will be heralding in the new year on March 8, 2012. And the show is unique worldwide in that it features the watch and jewellery industry in its entirety.

Alongside the luxury goods from the premium brands, specialist buyers will find end products in all the different price ranges, as well as precious stones, pearls, components, machinery and packaging. Brand worlds will be staged at the topmost level over a surface area of 160,000 square meters in stands that are two or more stories high in some cases.

Attracting more than 100,000 visitors, BASELWORLD constitutes the industry’s biggest networking platform. Specialist buyers from all over the world acquire an overview of the full range of products in the watch and jewellery industry, making purchasing decisions on the spot. The leading position of the World Watch and Jewellery Show is underlined by the presence of more than 3,000 media representatives from all the different continents.

Learn more about the forthcoming World Watch and Jewellery Show by scanning this code with a QR reader on your smartphone.

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Edition LimitĂŠe Titane

sm heritage Independent Watchmakers

Doing it Their Way The watch industry is dominated by the large companies and household names such as Rolex, Omega, Cartier, Patek Philippe and others. There is a segment of the watch industry, however, that is led by smaller independent companies who are doing their best to impact watchmaking, pushing it forward and in directions it has never gone before.

Here are just three examples of this amazing group of extremely talented people.

by Keith Strandberg

LOUIS MOINET Louis Moinet, based in Saint-Blaise, Switzerland, under the direction of Jean-Marie Schaller, has positioned itself with products like nothing else on the market – different designs, unique materials – along with a story with real historical significance and watchmaking legitimacy.

Louis Moinet was a watchmaking legend, and Schaller has crafted the Louis Moinet brand into something of which he would have been proud. Today, the Louis Moinet brand combines art and watchmaking in a unique way, producing innovative watches that look like no other, no easy task in today’s watch world.

The ASTRALIS and the PRESENT Leading this emphasis on art and horology is the product of the year for Louis Moinet, the Astralis. A severely limited edition, 12 pieces for the world, the Astralis is a unique combination of complications – it is a tourbillon, a split second column wheel chronograph and it features a 24-hour Planetarium with four extremely rare meteorites.

The complexity doesn’t stop with the movement, as even the case, in 5N 18K red gold, is comprised of 50 pieces. Louis Moinet uses its signature “Côtes du Jura” motif on the dial, along with distinctive “Gouttes de Rosée” (“dewdrop”) hands.

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Louis Moinet

The 60-second tourbillon is backed by a plate made from aventurine, a material that looks like a starry sky, which mirrors the celestial nature of the Astralis.

One thing that Louis Moinet will always be is exclusive and extremely limited.

Louis Moinet watches are rare timepieces that mix art with high horology and, as such, it’s rare to find them on anyone’s wrist.

“Our concept is mechanical art in limited editions -- one piece, 12, 60, 120 or 365 pieces,” Schaller explains.

“It’s important to me that we honor the heritage of Louis Moinet and to write new chapters of his history as if he were alive,” says Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Louis Moinet.

2.

1.

1. Vertalis Tourbillon_Red Stromatolite; 2. Manual adjustment of the dial thickness; 3. technical details of the Jules Verne; 4. Jean-Marie Schaller and his wife; 5. Jules Verne Instrument III to be unveiled March 2012.

3.

4.

5.

Independent Watchmakers 27

DE BETHUNE De Bethune, founded in 2002, is the result of a collaboration between David Zanetta, president of the board of directors of De Bethune, and Denis Flageollet, director of production.

“David Zanetta and myself founded De Bethune to pay tribute to great watchmaking that, in the past, raised the classic mechanics to the rank of real artistic discipline both in the aesthetic level and the technical,” Flageollet says. “It is a part of our cultural and historical heritage that we attempt to bring back the creation of exceptional timepieces fusing aesthetics and technology. The research and development department of the De Bethune Manufacture is bringing the classical mechanical rules into the 21st century. All developments and patents are based in classic mechanics applied to the new technology and new materials.”

The Raison D’être of De Bethune De Bethune was created to be guided by an unflinching devotion to the highest quality possible. Currently, the brand makes about 250 watches a year and, even though production could be raised to 1,000 or more watches a year, Pierre Jacques, CEO of De Bethune, is committed to keeping production numbers low, not more than 350 pieces a year, and quality high.

DeBethune Triumverate: David Zanetta, Pierre Jacques, Denis Flageollet DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

“We are not creating ‘mechanical boy’s toys’ for a marketing brand,” Flageollet is quick to point out.

“With our background and our watchmaking experience, we design and create timepieces of the very highest quality, which are meant to reflect our artistic approach to watchmaking. Our customer is the connoisseur, who is passionate about watchmaking, and people who appreciate and understand the highest quality and the finest work of our creations.”

Watchmaking the DeBethune Way Flageollet is a bit of an iconoclast in watchmaking, honoring the past of watchmaking but intent on making his own impact on the present and future. As an artist, he refuses to be governed by market demands or the whims of anything outside of watchmaking and artistry. When asked what gets him up in the morning, for example, he replies, “I don’t have ‘mornings,’ I have my own rhythm which is not necessary in line with the classic day. When I work depends on my projects and my inspiration. I enjoy almost everything about what I do, because I only do what I want to do.”

Since 2002, De Bethune has registered nine watchmaking patents, and has produced 11 in-house calibers.

Watchmaking innovations introduced in its product range include the Triple Parachute system, a unique Speed Regulation System, reticulating lugs, patented De Bethune self-adjusting double barrels, a unique moon phase display, the De Bethune in-house silicon/titanium 30-second tourbillon, and more.

According to Flageollet, the future for De Bethune will continue as it has since 2002 – incredible attention to detail, continual pushing of the boundaries of watchmaking, while maintaining the highest quality possible.

Independent Watchmakers 29

HM3 Sidewinder for MB&F

JEAN-MARC WIEDERRECHT Movement mastermind Jean-Marc Wiederrecht didn’t start out looking to work in the watch industry. Luckily for watch lovers around the world, Wiederrecht was bitten by the watchmaking “bug” during his last years of formal schooling and decided that this was his calling.

As a result, Wiederrecht has changed the watch industry by redefining what a movement can be. In most timepieces, the exterior of the watch serves the movement, that is someone creates a new movement, then the exterior design is created around (and defined by) the movement.

For Wiederrecht, it is often the other way around. His movements serve the concept or the “story” of the watch. Many of his creations started their lives as ideas that others thought impossible. Where many watchmakers are conditioned to say “No” first to any radical idea, Wiederrecht says “Why not? Let’s see if we can make it work.”

Agenhor – His Own Workshop Wiederrecht has a long history in watchmaking, having been in the business since 1978. He has worked with Roger Dubuis, Harry Winston, Max Busser and many more, and since 1996 he has had his own company, Atelier Genevois d’Horlogerie (Agenhor), a collection of free thinkers and watchmaking experts.

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“I do a lot of work for different brands and my clients are only brands,” he says. “It’s so much fun to work with everyone – I work with an independent watchmaker on one project and then work with a famous brand for certain complications. I love to speak with all the different managers. They come to me and ask me to do things that are not so easy to do.”

It’s the challenge that keeps Wiederrecht going and excited about each new project. “I am a patron, an entrepreneur,” he says. “I was a small artisan before, and I am still an artisan, but I am the leader of a group of people now. I like to be heavily involved with the pieces we do. We manage all the projects for our clients, which can be very complicated, but I am very pragmatic. For me, a watch has to be the simplest possible. I don’t make it complicated when it can be simple.

“I have to think about the project a long time before I begin to work on it,” he continues. “With computers, you can do things never possible before, but often these new designs don’t work. My clients have to be able to sell the watches I make, so quality is the first thing we work on.”

The projects closest to his heart are the poetic complication effort from Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as the Time Suspended from Hermès. In both cases, the brands come up with the ideas and Wiederrecht works to make them a reality. The movement serves the idea, not the other way around.

Lady Poetic Wish for Van Cleef & Arpels

Arceau Le Temps Suspendu for Hermès

“Since we started the poetic complications five years ago, it has been very stimulating,” he says. “I love this kind of watch, because it is so different. It is very technical, but you can’t see the technical parts of it, because it is all hidden by the poetry and the artisanal work.

“I like to create new watches and I like to imagine new ways of telling time,” he continues. “I am 61 years old, and I am still fascinated by watchmaking. It’s always an enchantment for me. Now, I try to work with my clients to present the time in different ways.”

Thanks to Wiederrecht, the watch industry will never be the same.

These are just three examples of the creative pioneers working in the watch industry today.

Swiss Made will continue to profile these cuttingedge companies and individuals from time to time, offering an alternative to the well-known brands, and a different kind of watchmaking.

Opus 9 for Harry Winston Independent Watchmakers 31

sm craftsmanship

by Keith W. Strandberg

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Finishing Strong Attention to Detail Reigns Supreme in High Watchmaking Compared to products like cars, furniture and appliances, watches are tiny objects. When you think about it, the fact that mechanical watches actually work is an incredible feat of micro-mechanics. When it comes to mechanical watches, even the simplest have more than a hundred parts that all have to work together flawlessly to be precise, and the most complicated can have almost 1,000 parts.

Attention to Detail Due to the fact that watches as a whole are so small, the hundreds of intricate parts are by necessity tiny. So tiny, in fact, that many of the screws that are used to hold the parts together have to be viewed under a microscope.

Each of the parts that goes into a watch has to have an incredibly tight tolerance, because if one of those parts is not exactly the right size, the watch simply wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t work.

Some high-end companies polish and finish each and every part of the watches by hand, meticulously making sure that every defect and piece of dust or debris is gone, even if the parts, hidden inside the movement, will never be seen by the owner. This kind of attention to detail may seem crazy, but it speaks to the Swiss watchmakersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; commitment to excellence. The logic is that if this kind of attention to detail is paid to the smallest parts, even parts that have no impact on the precision of a watch, this level of quality will extend to every part of the watch, raising the overall quality of the timepiece.

Decorative Finishings In addition to the filing and finishing of components, holes and more, there are several special finishings that are decorative, adding to the beauty of the movement.

Craftsmanship - Finishing 33

Côtes de Genève Engraving is a lengthy process which demands great skill so around the year 1880 watchmakers in Geneva designed the Côtes de Genève pattern of straight lines to decorate some components and to hide any scratches or imperfections. The Côtes de Genève motif is mainly seen on the visible surface of bridges and can be achieved with semi-automatic machines or CNC machines.

There are two handcrafted methods, one that uses a rectifying ruler that scratches the surface, and the other uses a lathe that goes back and forth to create the stripes.

Mirror polishing Mirror polishing is the technique in which a component is so highly polished it has the appearance of a mirror. It is also referred to as black polishing (as the pieces can also appear black), specular polishing, flat polishing and vertical polishing.

This type of polishing is totally flat; the crystalline tips of the surface of the metal are torn off and pushed down by crushing, creating a perfectly flat surface. This flatness reflects the light in one unique direction, depending on which way the piece is facing.

The component can look black, grey or white and when assembled in a movement, gives a kaleidoscope effect. To achieve the effect is extremely time consuming. Modern methods include the use of abrasive papers or a lapping machine, but neither come close to the result of handcrafted mirror polishing. A tourbillon bridge, for example, will be prepared using the abovementioned methods and then rubbed by hand using extremely fine abrasives on a zinc plate that is utterly flat. The process takes about two hours and the bridge will be assembled immediately after to avoid any scratches.

Snailing Snailing is similar to sunray brushing but with spiral lines leaving from the centre, instead of straight lines. It is often seen on ratchets, bridge pavements, oscillating weights, barrels and barrel covers.

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Perlage Perlage, stippling, spotting, beading or Oeil de Perdrix are some of the terms for the small circles that are often visible on the bridges, plates and at the bottoms of recesses. These small spiral-like circles are an excellent way to cover scratches and imperfections in components. There are few modern machines that can carry out this kind of decoration as they are extremely expensive. Most of the work is carried out on a hand-operated stippling machine with an abrasive pad that will mark the surface with a swirl.

Sunray brushing This technique results in lines radiating from a central point, much like the rays of the sun. It is realized by means of a bell grinding-wheel that draws straight lines across the metal from the centre.

Circular graining This form of finishing consists of fine circular lines that enhance the shine of a piece. It is mainly used on the visible faces of wheels and is achieved by turning the component and pressing against it with a slate stick or buff.

Engraving Engraving bridges and movement components was popular in pocket watches not only for decoration but also to catch dust. As movements were not airtight at the time, dust could become problematic in the movement. Handcrafted engraving has rough edges at the bottom of the grooves that create a perfect dust trap.

Engravings are also a way to personalize a movement with drawings, motifs, names and reference numbers. Nowadays many movements are engraved using CNC machines, chemicals, a pantograph machine (which copies from a stencil) or with laser technology. Hand-crafted engraving is achieved by making a drawing on the metal using a scriber, then the engraver will remove the material by making incisions into the metal with numerous different tools that range from blade-like scorpers to flat-edge gravers.

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Guilloché or engine-turning Guilloché is an ancient engraving technique that carves straight lines and/or curves onto the dial of a timepiece, case or other component. The name guilloché comes from French, and is believed to have been named after an engineer called “Guillot”. The first engine turning machines date back to the 15th century and were used for engraving wood and ivory.

It wasn’t until the 18th century that artisans started to engrave precious metals in this way.

Hand guilloché is one of the most respected techniques as it is created manually using a traditional engine turning machine that removes the material with a turning tool. The guillocheur will start by ensuring that the metal is totally flat to avoid any distortion of the patterns. The metal will then be smoothed down and given a matt finish with a finishing paste in order to render the guiding marks more visible during the turning process. The difficulty is to keep the desired depth of the engraving and the contact between the tool and the metal constant for a perfect line – a momentary lapse in attention can be fatal. There are two types of guilloché machines: a straightline machine and a flinqué engraving lathe for circular guilloché, and the possibilities for motifs with these two machines are limitless.

Hand finished and decorated movements come at a price, but it is price that includes uttermost beauty and savoirfaire, something that is rare in an age where profit so often rules over perfection.

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

8

TissoT TradiTion PerPeTual Calendar

chosen by Tony Parker â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Professional Basketball Player Classic timepiece with exclusive perpetual calendar movement.

316L stainless steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and water resistance up to 3 bar (30 m / 100 ft).

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sm time to give

A voice, a soul, a dream The official launch of the Andrea Bocelli Foundation in Beverly Hills last December, was a night full of hope and emotions. The evening started on a very moving note, when Andrea Bocelli took the stage and recited the first canto of Dante’s Divine Comedy, which starts with these three famous verses: Midway upon the journey of our life I found myself within a forest dark For the straightforward pathway had been lost.

Nel mezzo del cammin di nostra vita Mi ritrovai per una selva oscura Che la diritta via era smarrita.

Bocelli explained that the words of the Italian poet doubly resounded with him at a time which felt like a transition between the first and the second parts of his life, a period when he felt lost and in the dark. Not only because, literally, Bocelli had completely lost his sight after a long visual deterioration, but also because, as his fame and wealth rose exponentially, he felt he was losing the meaning of life.

“I wanted to give meaning to my live, so I decided to create a foundation, and I called Laura Biancalani, a companion of my long-forgotten law studies who specializes in non-profits and foundations.” A few phone calls later the Andrea Bocelli Foundation was born, to serve those faced with the challenges of illness, disability and poverty. “Our mission is to empower people and communities in situations of poverty, illiteracy and distress due to illness and social exclusion, by promoting and supporting national and international projects that promote the overcoming of these barriers,” explains Bocelli. “We are a

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

by Claudia Laffranchi

“I realized it would feel empty to keep singing and getting rich without thinking about others, those who suffer, and without giving an example to my children”, said Andrea Bocelli.

grant-making foundation based on what we call the 5 Cs: courage, care, concreteness, competence and cooperation.” And to prove his point Bocelli introduced the first project of his foundation, which could literally change the life of millions of people who, like him, are visually impaired.

The Andrea Bocelli Foundation is supporting the MIT Fifth Sense Project, a team of Massachusetts Institute of Technology scientists whose goal is to provide the functions of vision to blind people through technology. Professor Seth Teller, who spoke at the event, leads a multidisciplinary team of computer scientists, mechanical engineers and neuroscientists who are working on technology to help blind people navigate daily life more independently and efficiently. Teller showed the audience a small wearable camera that can be affixed to one’s glasses and that hopefully, in the future, could be integrated with sophisticated sen-

sors to bring assisted vision to the blind thanks to smartphone-like devices, which could help them travel, shop, and identify people, facial expressions, obstacles, and much more. Other ideas being studied are self-driving cars, robotic wheelchairs and devices for indoor navigations. “A change in the qualitiy of life of blind people could be a revolutionary moment”, said Teller, remembering that 70% of blind Americans are now unemployed. This project is part of the “Challenges Program” of the Andrea Bocelli Foundation, which aims to bring together the best minds to find innovative solutions to help people overcome the limits imposed by their disabilities. The other focus of the Foundation is the “Break the Barriers Program”, which supports projects that help the populations of developing countries, where poverty, disease, malnutrition and complex social situations invalidate or reduce life expectancy.

“I feel very strongly about helping people make the most of the world that we live in”, says Bocelli. “I was born with a poor eyesight and became completely blind at the age of twelve. Overcoming blindness and dealing with its consequences has taught me about the nature of externally imposed limits, and has encouraged me to think about how to help and Andrea Bocelli Foundation 39

From the Foundraising Gala in Beverly Hills: Heather Headley, Evan Rachel Wood,Julie Benz, Michael Bolton, Andrea Bocelli presenting award to Quincy Jones.

support others facing barriers in their lives.

Every human being has the right to be happy, fulfilled and to live a flourishing and meaningful life. I want to help those who face these barriers in achieving their life’s potential.”

Bocelli decided to launch his foundation in America, underlining that there is no other country where private foundations and charities are such an important part of the social structure. And after this emotional start, the evening — sponsored by GirardPerregaux and produced by Italian American actress and philantrophist Jo Champa continued in a crescendo of musical performances and guest appearances. Grammy president Neil Portow praised Bocelli for giving his time to underprivileged kids and teaching them about opera in a special two-week workshop. Girard-Perregaux sponsored the Foundation’s first award, and presented legendary music producer Quincy Jones with a Girard-Perregaux World Timer Timepiece for his worldwide philantrophic efforts. Bocelli called him “a beloved human being, my musical hero, an international music icon and a great man with a big heart,” and Jones just replied “Grazie tante, Andrea. You are one of the most beautiful men I know.”

But, as befits music legends, words were kept to a minimum, and the evening became a joyous concert of Andrea Bocelli and friends such as producer David Forster, Broadway diva Heather Headley, soprano Anna Maria Martinez and pop king Michael Bolton. Performances included Schubert’s Ave Maria, performed by Bocelli (voice and flute); Lehar’s Tace Il labbro with Anna Maria Martinez, and a solo Amazing Grace, DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

whose lyrics “I was blind but now I see, I was lost but now I’m found” sounded particularly touching and meaningful. But then the evening went into party mode with Ritz Ortolani’s More, made famous by Frank Sinatra; When a Man Loves a Woman, a duet with Michael Bolton; Over the Rainbow performed by Heather Headley, who was then joined by Bocelli for Elvis Presley’s Can’t Help Falling in Love; The Prayer; New York, New York; and the grand finale with Con Te Partirò.

The musical choices proved to be inspiring, because guests — including Evan Rachel Wood, Camille Belle, Natalie Cole, Chaka Khan, Taylor Hackford, Harvey Weinstein and Manuele Malenotti — were happy and in a good mood, which made them bid top dollars to have dinner with Bocelli in a Tuscan vineyard and for other auction items. As Bocelli himself reminded the guests attending this exclusive concert and fundraiser, “The amazing life we have been gifted offers us the privilege and the responsibility to give the less fortunate a better future and opportunities.”

To find out more how you can support the foundation initiatives, go to: www.andreabocellifoundation.org

Gc is a registered trademark of GUESS?, Inc. Art Dir. Paul Marciano

With a passion for finely crafted timepieces, 15 years ago Paul Marciano dreamt of the Gc brand, and thus it was born. Combining quality Swiss watch making with striking European design whilst offering both value and substance.

This year at Baselworld 2012, Gc celebrates its 15th anniversary with the launch of the new advertising campaign, Smart Luxury. Brought to life through vivid photography, rising star Pino Gomes captures young, ambitious and talented personalities in their Moments of Smart Luxury. They, like Paul Marciano, are PASSIONATE about what they do and encapsulate the values of this young dynamic SWISS MADE brand.

Gc is Smart Luxury. Timeless, Passionate, Swiss Made.

sm ambassador

Indian beauty Deepika for Tissot With her elegant form, large warm eyes and dusky skin, it is impossible for Indian cinema star Deepika Padukone to enter a room without all heads turning.

Oh, and it so happens that 26-year-old Padukone is one of the most recognizable faces in Bollywood.

With back-to-back hits “Om Shanti Om,” “Love Aaj Kal” and “Housefull” early in her career, she has become a force to reckon with in the Indian film industry.

by Susan Robinson

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Deepika Padukone for Tissot 43

Deepika during the photoshoot at the magnificient Shangri-La Palace in Paris.

As the daughter of former badminton champion Prakash Padukone, she is naturally blessed with athletic ability and easily could have made her mark in the world of sports. However, she decided to venture in a new direction: skyward.

Within a short time, Padukone has gained immense fame and popularity. She was the most searched celebrity on Yahoo! India Search in 2008. Recently, FHM voted her “The Sexiest Woman in The World” and Maxim proclaimed her “The Hottest Girl on Earth.”

However, despite all the attention, “I don’t consider myself a celebrity,” Padukone says. “I believe that I’ve had a fantastic upbringing and I believe my parents have kept me really grounded and rooted, and my family keeps me rooted. And I hope that success never gets to me. I’ve seen my father handle success really well and I hope I continue in the same way because I believe that fame and money, all of that, are all secondary things. The main thing is to enjoy your work.”

She certainly enjoys staying busy: In addition to appearing in up to four Bollywood films per year, she works as a fashion model and also is one of the muses of watchmaker Tissot.

Padukone is the brand’s ambassador in India and the “Face of Tissot” worldwide. The partnership began in December 2007 just after the worldwide launch of “Om Shanti Om,” which put her acting career on the fast track. This was the first time the Swiss watch brand has chosen an Indian ambassador and underlines the importance that Tissot places on this dynamic market.

Between filming in South Africa, holidays in London and few days off to Mumbai, where she recently bought a new home, she made a stop in Paris for Tissot. The tres chic Shangri-La Palace was the scene of Tissot’s new advertising campaign, where the photos in these pages were taken.

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Padukone is multi-talented, dynamic and always open to new ideas — characteristics that complement the world of innovative Tissot. She was drawn to Tissot through her admiration of the company’s soon 160 years of watchmaking history and its international reach as the traditional Swiss watch brand with the highest volume.

Tissot already enjoys great acclaim on the Indian market with its diverse, top quality collection appealing to the discerning Indian taste. This collaboration will support and grow this popularity, benefiting both parties.

As an authority on beauty and good taste, Padukone was particularly attracted to the Tissot ladies’ collection, describing these timepieces as “the most appropriate feminine fashion accessories.”

The diversity of the line, rooted in its reliable Swiss heritage, has proved to be just the ticket for the star’s multi-faceted lifestyle.

She likes being able to find the perfect watch for the occasion and mood, every time. Padukone loves the Tissot T-Touch models, although since diamonds are traditionally a girl’s best friend, she admits to having a real soft spot for the Tissot Classic Prince Diamonds and the Generosi-T. She reflects on the similarities between her personality and the Tissot brand: “We are both adventurous, sophisticated and classy, yet very approachable.”

Francesco Escalar Š Cartier 2011

Deepika Padukone for Tissot 45

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the

SIGNS of the

TIMES The oeuvre created by the American concept and object artist Edward Kienholz (1927–1994) from the mid-1950s onward is strongly polarizing and rebellious in character. Central to his work, which from 1972 was executed in collaboration with his wife, Nancy Reddin Kienholz, are religion, war, death, sex and the degenerate sides of society. As well as being members of the same generation, Kienholz and Jean Tinguely shared a bond of friendship and of respect for the (differing) radicality of each other’s artistic creativity. The exhibition shows work from the period 1960–1994, notably a number of impressive smaller sculptures in conjunction with a series of the expansive and spectacular “moral tableaus”.

Rebellious, provocative and polarizing, the oeuvre associated with the name Kienholz has always caused quite a stir since its beginnings in the mid-1950s, first the works by Edward Kienholz (1927–1994) alone, then later, from 1972 on, the collaborative projects with his wife, Nancy Reddin Kienholz. The sensation caused by Kienholz’s art is hardly surprising, given that its central subjects are religion, war, death, sex and the more inscrutable sides of society and its social conflicts. With themes such as the sexual exploitation of women in prostitution, the role of the media, or the consequences of ethnic conflicts, the works pinpoint fractures of Western societies which have hardly been remedied to this day and thus Edward Kienholz & Nancy Reddin Kienholz DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

The Commercial # 2, 1971-73 Private collection © Kienholz Photo: F. Rosenstiel

lend the oeuvre its unmitigated topicality. But this contemporaneity is not due solely to the themes dealt with; today we view the works as anticipating central trends in contemporary art like those we find ourselves confronted with in Paul McCarthy’s and Mike Kelley’s pieces, for example, but also in the production of Jonathan Meese, Thomas Hirschhorn, or John Bock.

On show from 22 February 2012 until 13 May 2012, the exhibition at the Museum Tinguely, spanning from the first three-dimensional smaller works to the conceptual pieces and room-filling tableaux, offers a complex survey highlighting the essence of Edward Kienholz and Nancy Reddin Kienholz’s achievements.

Edward Kienholz was born on 23 October 1927 in Fairfield, Washington, and died in 1994 in Hope, Idaho.

On the occasion of the exhibition The Kienholz Women in Berlin in 1981-82, Edward Kienholz publicly declared his wife’s co-authorship concerning all his works produced since 1972, the year of their first encounter. Although Edward Kienholz studied at several colleges, he never attended an art academy. His pursuit of ART- The Signs of the Times 47

such diverse occupations as nurse, car dealer, handyman (his van carried the inscription “Ed Kienholz – Expert”), and bar owner gave him experience of a great variety of spheres of life and enabled him to gather impressions and insights that were to provide him with inspiration in his creative work. From 1973 Edward Kienholz and Nancy Reddin Kienholz divided their time between the remote town of Hope, Idaho, and Berlin, where they maintained a lively exchange with the German art world.

In 1953 Edward Kienholz settled in Los Angeles, where from 1954 he did his first wood reliefs and small material assemblages. Two years later he organized exhibitions in Los Angeles, where in 1957 he opened the Ferus Gallery together with Walter Hopps. Shortly after, his works developed into three-dimensional “tableaux” – room-spanning environments and installations. The material he used was mainly comprised of everyday objects found through scouring junk shops and markets, and examples of Western consumer culture waste found on scrap heaps and disposal sites – television sets, automobile parts, lamps, loudspeakers, furniture, goldfish bowls, shoes, signs, flags, advertising articles, cigarettes, toy soldiers, or dollar bills. These were often complemented with plaster casts of various family members and friends.

This radical approach was unparalleled in the history of art. Kienholz intended everyone to be able to get his message and therefore refrained from using an elitist visual language. His work comes across in a quite unusual and unaccustomed manner: with all its real elements it is close to everyday life and yet at the same time it points beyond. This was too much for respectable 1960s America, where the works were considered obscene and yet thousands thronged to Kienholz’s first big exhibition to savour the taste of scandal.

Edward Kienholz and Jean Tinguely first met in 1962, when Tinguely had an exhibition in the Everett Ellin Gallery in Los Angeles and his partner Niki de Saint Phalle mounted a “shooting picture” on 4 March.

Tinguely and Kienholz acted as her assistants, laying the foundation for a close friendship.

The two artists met frequently in the following two years, during which one important moment was certainly the shooting excursion that gave them the idea for the collaborative concept tableau The American Trip of 1966.

“Adrenalin-producing anger carried me through that work,” as Edward Kienholz put it when looking back on his initial years. In a period marked by the Cold War and the anticommunism of the McCarthy era, Kienholz

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had good reason to be angry and was among the critical figures who joined their voices in passionate contempt of vulgarity and injustice. Denouncing consumerist delusion, bigotry and inhibition, they pursued alternative ways of living, deliberately sought out dirt and disorder, and took a special interest in outcasts and groups on the edge of society. In the large tableau The Eleventh Hour Final of 1968, Kienholz evokes the comforting atmosphere of an average respectable bourgeois living room. Critically, though, he destroys it at a stroke with one single object: a concrete television set with a severed doll’s head standing for the victims of the Vietnam war, visible behind a matt screen bearing statistics of the numbers killed. The simple act of quotation highlights the absurdity of the statistics, which – as indicated by the work’s title – were read every evening on the late news. The television set becomes a memorial but also a literal reminder of media manipulation.

The tableau The Jesus Corner of 1982-83 likewise juxtaposes cosy bourgeois homeliness with the harsh realities beyond its world. In so doing it expresses and champions open-mindedness and tolerance toward society’s outsiders, loners and nonconformists. With its use of Christian devotional objects, the assemblage is symptomatic of Kienholz’s profound scepticism towards institutionalized religion, which finds its expression in mocking irony or open rebellion in different works.

A great many works make it their concern that everybody should be granted a fair share in the American dream. Claude Nigger Claude of 1988, a portrait by Edward Kienholz and Nancy Reddin Kienholz of a black man from Idaho (a state with a minimal black population), is an appeal against racism in its habitual, everyday guise. The Potlatch, from 1988, on the other hand, is concerned with the marginalization of the indigenous population and the destruction of their social and cultural identity. In Claude Nigger Claude and The Potlatch, the artists spoke as inhabitants of Idaho, showing an acute awareness of the history of the American Northwest.

Other works deal with sexual power and exploitation, presenting the utopia of liberated sexuality in opposition to the commodified sexuality of the brothel. Works such as The Pool Hall of 1993,

The Ozymandias Parade, 1985. Collection of the artist. Courtesy of L.A. Louver, Venice, CA © Kienholz; Photo: Schirn Kunsthalle Frankfurt; Norbert Miguletz

The Rhinestone Beaver Peepshow Triptych or The Bronze Pinball Machine with Woman Affixed Also, both from 1980, mirror commercialized sex and advertising images of utmost banality, which have deeply embedded themselves in the society’s subconscious. In today’s world of YouPorn in which porn pictures are available at any time to virtually everyone, a pinball machine offering an outlet for impulses and urges nearly strikes us as belonging to some golden age. The perspective seems to be profoundly Protestant in this case and incessantly oscillates between exhibitionism and enlightening gesture.

One particular highlight of the exhibition will be the spectacular installation The Ozymandias Parade with its 687 blinking light bulbs (which in Basel are in Switzerland’s national colors red and white but are adapted accordingly wherever the work is mounted). The “Ship of Fools” in the form of a mirrored arrow is presented as a decadent parade symbolizing the abuse of political power. Whether the ominous-looking President of the parade will bear a YES or a NO over his face is determined by the public’s answers to the simple question: “Are you satisfied with your Government?” In the two weeks prior to the exhibition, visitors to the Internet page www.tinguely.ch/jajaneinnein can take part in the survey. The result of their voting then becomes apparent at the opening.

The exhibition Kienholz: The Signs of the Times is mounted by the Schirn Kunsthalle Frankfurt in cooperation with the Museum Tinguely Basel.

Museum Tinguely, Basel 22 February – 13 May 2012 www.tinguely.ch

The Bronze Pinball Machine with Woman Affixed Also, 1980 Berlinische Galerie – Landesmuseum für Moderne Kunst, Fotografie und Architektur © Kienholz Photo: Kai-Annett Becker ART- The Signs of the Times 49

sm fashion

Smart Luxury The Swiss Made brand Gc celebrates its15th anniversary

Fifteen years after the creation of Gc, the goal of the brand remains the same: to create “Smart Luxury” items for people who aim high and enjoy a sophisticated lifestyle. Smart Luxury – the signature of the brand – prestige materials, striking European design and Swiss Made quality, all at an optimal price point.

Gc prides itself in providing its customers with products that express their personality and make them feel good about their choice and their number continues to grow.

However, that does not mean founder Paul Marciano is content to simply bask in the afterglow of past successes.

2012 marks a series of additional milestones for the brand.

“My own personal luxury comes from doing what I love every day, constantly creating new things and pushing the boundary of what is possible,” says Marciano, creator of the GUESS fashion and lifestyle empire, who set himself the challenge of creating a Swiss Made watch brand with its roots firmly grounded in fashion.

Paul Marciano with Cindy Livingston.

Marciano launched the prestige watch brand Gc in 1997, under the direction of Cindy Livingston, President and CEO, Sequel AG. Fusing timeless fashion and quality Swiss watchmaking, Gc offers value and substance with a smart price-conscious approach, providing “Smart Luxury” to a fashion-savvy and quality-seeking clientele.

Marciano clearly has his finger on the pulse of the market because the brand has expanded quickly. Today Gc watches are sold in more than 70 countries through a network of 60 distributors and 5,000 retail outlets and has a growing network of its own boutiques in major capitals around the world.

Always looking for the next challenge, Marciano is passionate about his creations and continues to be the brand’s inspiration and is active in all aspects of its development.

Gc – Smart Luxury Gc stands for the perfect fusion of timeless European fashion and quality Swiss watchmaking. With its striking combination of colours and materials and distinctive contemporary design, each Gc timepiece makes a statement about the personality of the person wearing it. Gc watches represent substance, style, value and fine craftsmanship to fulfil personal dreams of self-expression and success, offering a Smart Luxury “feel good sensation”. Smart Luxury is the essence of the brand – an individual smart way to live luxury.

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

To mark its 15th anniversary celebration this year, Gc launches its first Lady Mechanical watch as well as a men’s mechanical anniversary timepiece and expands its lifestyle offering with the introduction of a line of fine leather accessories.

Gc Class Lady 15th Anniversary Limited Edition Another milestone on the occasion of the brand’s anniversary is the first mechanical Gc watch for ladies. The Gc Lady Mechanical is a true fusion of modern feminine design and the savoir-faire of quality Swiss Made craftsmanship. The finely adorned movement with manual winding and 42-hour power reserve can be admired through four openings on the dial or through the transparent sapphire crystal case back.

The sleek case houses a skeletal mechanical 2801 ETA movement visible through the dial openings with raised minute circle and centrally pierced with four interconnected circular openings at 5, 7 and 12 o’clock, rimmed in rose gold PVD or steel. Two models feature a sophisticated gray or rose-gold translucent mother-of-pearl dial, further exposing the movement in a subtle manner. The beauty of the 17-jewel movement is also visible through the screw-down transparent case back that shows the balance spring oscillating at 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Gc Lady Mechanical 15th anniversary Limited edition

Gc-4 15th Anniversary Limited Edition To mark its anniversary, Gc also proudly introduces a sophisticated special edition of Swiss Made mechanical watches with skeletal openings. Tradition meets the future in the Gc-4 timepiece as Swiss knowhow joins bold design, perfectly translating the brand’s characteristics.

The finely decorated mechanical ETA 2801 movement with manual winding powers the watch, visible through four interconnected circular openings on the dial or through the transparent case back. The 44mm case with tapered lugs and the beveled bezel with decorative screws set the sporty but elegant frame for the chiseled skeleton movement and elaborate dial. A black sunray dial highlights hand-applied roman numerals and indices, and the 17-jewel movement features a 42-hour power reserve.

New leather goods collection In a desire to offer a full range of products to accompany the Gc consumer’s Smart Luxury lifestyle, Gc designs its leather goods especially for today’s men and women, with collections inspired by its iconic watch lines that stand out by their bold design. Each product is crafted by hand using age-old methods, with utmost care taken in the quality of the leather, the direction of the grain and the condition of the skins. For men the extensive range covers wallets, key rings, money pouches, passport covers and iPad cases.

Fashion-conscious ladies have even more items to choose from, including clutch bags and cosmetic cases – all with that special attention to detail that makes all the difference.

Gc Watches - Smart Luxury 51

sm exclusive photoshoot

A night after PHOTOSHOO Ballet KUN

by Martin Kunert

Photographer: Martin Kunert for Marilyn Ballard, www.marilynballard.com Producer: Sherry Pantieri Model: Sarah Mutch, l.a. Models Photographer Assistants: Kevin LaCava, Jean-Pierre Vanhoegaerden Hair: Chase Kusero for Priveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Make-Up: Lynn Taylor using MAC Cosmetics for Milton Agency Stylist: Megan Kelley Professional assistant: Toni Pickett Catering: Daily Dose Los Angeles, www.dailydoseinc.com Location: Booya Studios, Los Angeles Special Thanks to WESTIME Los Angeles DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Richard Mille RM 007 Pave Dial watch de Grisogono white gold with black and white diamonds multi banded ring Rachel Cassar black sheer netted long dress

OT MARTIN NERT

Photography by Martin Kunert 53

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak tuxedo cufflinks

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Harry Winston Ocean Dual Time watch with black rubber strap Loree Rodkin white gold and diamond rings What Katie Did ivory bra, panty, garter and nude with black seams stockings Tekay ivory lace shawl

Photography by Martin Kunert 55

de Grisogono rose gold and diamonds chain bracelet Loree Rodkin white gold and diamonds earrings Odylynne nude silk jersey one shoulder gown

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Gc Classica Automatic X84003G5S

Photography by Martin Kunert 57

Hublot 41 mm Big Bang white rubber strap watch

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

MB&F Horological Machine No.2 watch What Katie Did black sculpted bra, panty and garter Fogal black thigh high stockings

Photography by Martin Kunert 59

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi T-Graph 18k rose gold watch Rachel Cassar white pants with black suspenders Black Gloves â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

de Grisogono wave ring in white gold and diamonds

Photography by Martin Kunert 61

Longines Saint Imier automatic chrono watch

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

De Bethune Tourbillon DB28T watch WTB black leather laser cut dress

Photography by Martin Kunert 63

Filmmaker and photographer Martin Kunert was born in Warsaw to an old aristocratic family and taken at a young age to U.S. when his mother fled communism. In the States, he grew into a multidisciplinary and innovative artist. As a film writer/director/producer working in Hollywood, he conceived and directed the critically acclaimed documentary feature film VOICES OF IRAQ, by sending 150 DV cameras to Iraq to have Iraqis film their own lives. MovieMaker Magazine hailed the film as “truly a groundbreaking film… both in terms of its content and the process behind its production.” The Motion Picture Academy of Arts and Science is preserving a copy of the film. Previously, Martin created and executive produced MTV’s FEAR, the first television reality show to have contestants film themselves. He created the show’s frightening ambiance and visual style, which has become the template for ever supernatural reality show made since. He’s directed television and feature films, and wrote screenplays for every major studio and television network in Los Angeles.

Two years ago he picked up a still camera and was struck by the beauty of fashion photography. In his view, for over two thousand years, Europe developed an aesthetic of how to visually depict beauty, especially the most beautiful thing in the world: a beautiful woman. When the modern era of nonrepresentational art began, that classic European aesthetic was derailed, only to resurface in fashion photography. For Martin, the Mona Lisa is like the Vogue cover of its day. It’s the harnessing of that aesthetic - the depiction of classic beauty - married with selling the artistry of fine jewelry, watch and clothing design, that turned into a passion for Martin. In short order, his talent had him photographing fine editorials and campaigns.

Shooting with Deluxe Swiss Made magazine was an opportunity Martin couldn’t pass up. “I was struck by the artistry and craftsmanship of the timepieces and jewelry the magazine showcases. It’s amazing that such sheer beauty can be wrapped around somebody’s wrist or finger. To combine that with an exquisite woman... well, it brought images to my mind of what a night after the ballet would be in such a world and I fired off an email back to them - yes, I’d love to shoot it.”

Los Angeles is his residence, though his heart belongs to New York City, where he grew up and often travels to shoot.

He’s a dog fanatic and it’s his six year-old all-black German Shepherd, Kazan, that appears in this shoot.

More of his work can be seen online: www.MartinKunert.com DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Harry Winston Talk To Me Harry Winston watch Loree Rodkin white gold and diamond earrings Shakuhachi black jersey hi-lo dress

Photography by Martin Kunert 65

sm hollywood

Time on the Silver Screen Like it or not, we are all very influenced by what we see on movies and TV. It might be the latest catch phrase, a trendy hair style, a hot new motorcycle... or a watch.

A watch?

Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right, as watch brands become savvier about marketing and promotion, you can expect to see more watches while youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re watching movies or your favorite TV shows.

by Keith Strandberg DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Placements for products have had an impact since the early days of film. When Clark Gable took off his shirt on screen to reveal a bare chest, T-shirt sales plummeted. Then, a few years later, when Marlon Brando wore that famous T-shirt in “A Streetcar Named Desire,” T-shirt sales boomed again.

Watches are one of the ways that men and women can showcase their style and taste, so it makes sense that the entertainment industry uses watches on the wrists of stars to delineate their characters.

When watches and the movies and TV are combined well, it can be a home run for both the entertainment industry and the watch manufacturer. Movies and TV shows benefit from an association with a quality watch and the watches and brands are exposed to groups of people who have never seen them before.

Watchmakers know that one of the best ways to get you to picture yourself wearing a special timepiece is to place one on the wrist of the star of a popular movie or TV shows.

Product Placement: Why and How it Happens Watch placement can happen any number of ways. Many watch companies have representatives who work to place watches with studios and production companies. Sometimes, a production company will approach a watch brand about using its products for a particular project. At times, product placement is about historical accuracy, as in the movie “Pearl Harbor,” for example, Touchstone Pictures wanted something authentic and Hamilton Watch was a major supplier to the U.S. military during World War II. The result? A huge close-up of a Hamilton watch, worn by Josh Hartnett, in the final cut of the movie.

John Meyer, who was the production designer on “Nine,” is interested in how a watch “helps with the storytelling process,” he says.

“A watch is a major definition of a person’s character. I will meet with the property master and we’ll look at all the watches. The choice of watches for movies is very important and the right watch should make perfect sense, like the Hamilton in ‘Amelia.’ She wore one in real life, so it’s genius.”

Another example is the Omega Speedmaster “Moonwatch,” which played a part in the real Apollo 13 mission – the astronauts used it to time the start and stop of the engine on re-entry into the Earth’s atmosphere -- it was the only correct choice of watch for Ron Howard’s “Apollo 13.”

Some watch brands have relationships with actors who wear their products, and when that actor is in a movie, he or she can help get the watch in front of the camera (for example, John Travolta, a Breitling ambassador, wore his Breitling in “The Taking of Pelham 1 2 3”).

James Bond: The James Bond series of movies have become famous for product placement, especially with high-profile cars. Swiss watchmaker Omega has been working with the Bond films since 1995 – the Omega models James Bond wears in the films are tough and elegant, just like Bond.

Watches in Movies 67

There are times when watch placements naturally fit the story. For example, in “Batman Begins” Bruce Wayne wears a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch. The iconic watch which flips over, displaying a second watch face, put on his wrist to represent his dual personality. The use of this watch fits with the story -- and begs for a close-up so the audience can make the link from the watch to his character.

Ann Roth, the costume designer for “Julie & Julia”, is obsessive about getting the watch right for each character on her films. “I can hold up a movie set for hours choosing the right watch,” she says. “I choose the watch based on the character. For example, Ray Fiennes needed a watch for his character in ‘The English Patient.’ He was Hungarian royalty in the 1920s, got involved in the geographical society, lived in London and Egypt, so the watch he wore had to be really particular. I found it in London, in a secondhand shop, but I needed two of them, so I had a watchmaker make me another one. I am very particular about the watches that characters wear, it says so much about them.”

Doug Harlocker has been the propmaster on such projects as “War of the Worlds,” “Oceans 12,” “Spider Man 2 and 3,” both “Men In Black” movies, “The Patriot” and many others. “Product placement is an integral part of the movie making process,” he says. “Think of it in this way -- let’s say that I am working on a film where an A List actor has been cast in a role where his character can afford anything, one of his obvious accessories to express this with is his watch. I, as a propmaster, must show him a selection of watches that I think tell a little story about him.

“For Russell Crowe in ‘Master and Commander,’ I contacted Breguet to duplicate a watch that they had made in the 1700s to use in the film,” he continues. “They took it on as a challenge and delivered a magnificent pocket watch absolutely authentic to the period at no charge to us.

What did they get out of it? Well, 100 million people saw that movie and saw Russell using it. It is a strong association.”

On “Ocean’s 12,” Harlocker carried around at least $250,000 worth of watches with him every day to satisfy all of the actors’ characters. Brad Pitt, for instance, wore a Breitling Emergency, a Chronoswiss, a white gold Rolex, a Patek Philippe and a Hermès at different times throughout the movie. George Clooney wore a classic Hamilton in every scene. “I could not have provided those watches without the help of the manufacturers,” Harlocker admits. “Brad Pitt, after being exposed to that Breitling, purchased a half dozen of them for his co-stars on “Oceans 12.” In a perfect world, the actor will appreciate the product, wear it in the movie and in real life.”

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

It’s also possible that a watch supplied for a movie or TV show and worn during the shoot will never appear on screen, despite everyone’s best efforts. After all, movies aren’t edited with watch placement in mind and what was a great shot for the watch might not make it into the final edit.

Watch Creation for Movies Some watches, like the watch in Stanley Kubrik’s “2001,” are designed specifically for films. Hamilton Watch Company was commissioned to make the “2001” watch, a special multi time-zone timepiece, for the film and the company never even considered selling the watch commercially, as it was too complicated (for the time). In 2006, Hamilton finally made a limited edition reinterpretation of this watch, 30 years after the original film. How limited was this timepiece? You guessed it, 2001 pieces.

Arnold Schwarzenegger has worn Audemars Piguet watches in movies for quite some time, including “End of Days,” the “Terminator” series and more. For “End of Days,” Audemars Piguet created a new watch called the Royal Oak Offshore. Schwarzenegger worked with the company on the design of the watches and the company has produced several limited series of this watch.

Impact on Sales Though watch manufacturers are reluctant to say that the appearance of their product boosts sales dramatically, watch retailers do mention that an increase of interest and awareness, if not sales, occurs.

Hamilton Watch has had a host of movie tie-ins, the most successful and visible being their involvement with “Men In Black” -- where they took a classic Hamilton design and put it on the wrists of the two leads, Tommy Lee Jones and Will Smith. The result?

The watch became a sales leader.

Retailers report customers coming in and asking for the watches by the name of the movie or the character, not even knowing the brand name.

Safety Last: Watches and clocks have been used as symbols throughout the history of film.

Remember Harold Lloyd hanging from the giant clock in the 1923 silent film “Safety Last”?

Next time you’re in the theater, or just watching TV at home, pay attention to the wristwatches that the characters wear. If you can barely see the wristwatch, chances are it’s not a product placement. If you can see the brand clearly, and the watch itself has its own tight shot, then it’s more than likely a product placement.

As watches continue to increase in popularity and visibility, you can expect to see more placements in the movies and TV. After all, if the show is any good, you won’t be looking at your watch during it.

Watches in Movies 69

sm exclusive close-up

In a different light with

Michael Tighe

by Lisa Marks

In this exclusive interview for DELUXE Swiss Made magazine, American photographer Michael Tighe reveals the fascinating stories behind his intimate studies of Andy Warhol, Muhammad Ali, John Belushi, Elizabeth Taylor and many other celebrities, and how he came to capture so many historic episodes in pop culture.

It had taken a year of negotiations with promoter Don King’s office but shortly after entering the elegant suite at the hotel on Central Park South, photographer Michael Tighe found himself alone with the most famous man on the planet, Muhammad Ali. It was June 1987 and the world was coming to terms with the fact that boxing legend Ali was suffering from Parkinson’s disease. Tighe was one of the first photographers to capture Ali on film as the illness took hold, and despite almost 15 years of shooting the rich, the famous and infamous, he found himself lost for words.

“After the shoot, as I was packing up I realised that Ali and I were completely alone,” explains the Manhattan native. “It was amazing being in the same room as him but we hadn’t really spoken throughout the shoot - I wasn’t even sure he could hear me – so I didn’t know what to do when he got up and walked into the bathroom. He stood in front of the mirror, and I couldn’t take my eyes off him. Even though I didn’t know what to say I felt like I DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Michael Tighe early self portrait - 1974

Michael Tighe 71

had to acknowledge him somehow, so after a long pause I said, “You know, we all still love you very much.” He didn’t look at me but this big smile spread across his face. It was beautiful. An incredible moment.”

Tighe’s encounter with Ali was just one of the more surreal experiences this once precocious boy wonder has to share. He effortlessly won the trust of his famous subjects and sent shock waves through the colourful pop culture society of New York in the early Seventies with his stark yet revealing portraits.

At just 19 years old, he scored his big break with his first assignment for influential Interview magazine and although some might say it was a case of right time, right place, Tighe’s love for photography can easily be traced back to his childhood.

His father, a copywriter for an ad agency in New York, was an avid amateur photographer who had set up a darkroom in the family home. His young son would spend hours watching his dad shoot and develop his prints. Before he was out of high school, Tighe knew where he was headed.

“I bought my first issue of Interview when I was 16 years old. It had this vibe and I thought to myself, ‘This is where I want to be’,” explains Tighe, who now lives in east LA. “I was completely enthralled by what I saw on those pages.”

Soon after, he embarked on a letter writing campaign like no other. For almost two years during his late teens, he would write to celebrities, producers, directors, caricaturists – in fact, anyone he admired, and ask to take their photograph. Most said no but many said yes, including pop art visionary Andy Warhol.

With no proper training but an instinct for the medium, this tousle-haired kid turned up at The Factory in New York, ready to shoot the man who had single-handedly challenged the stuffy art establishment. “We were living in Warhol society and while I wasn’t a fan of his art I was a fan of the world of Andy Warhol. By the time I got to shoot him, he was at the height of his powers,” Tighe recalls. “He took me to his dining room, which was very traditional, and I shot him in there.

He didn’t say much. He was very still, very quiet, and a little impatient. I’ll always remember the moose’s head on the wall, and that you were greeted by a giant stuffed Great Dane at the front door. I was in wonderment.”

Shortly after, Tighe showed one of his Warhol prints to the art director of Interview, who questioned how a kid so young could capture such depth in his work. Just grateful to get a meeting, the teenager was dumbstruck when the magazine called later that same afternoon asking him to photograph Mikhail Baryshnikov’s masseuse. It proved to be his big break.

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Michael Tighe self portrati - 2011

Diana Vreeland - ”Shooting Mrs. Vreeland, as everyone called her, was a really big deal. During her reign as editor-in-chief of Vogue she was the most powerful influential person in the fashion biz.

Interview published it and like the Baryshnikov photo it got a lot of attention.”

Michael Tighe 73

Gary Oldman - “I shot this one of Gary in downtown LA for a film noir series for television directed by Phil Joanou, who also directed him and Sean Penn in “State of Grace”.

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

John Belushi “I wrote to Chevy Chase during the first season of Saturday Night Live in 1975. He was attracting a lot of press and as I was shooting at the offices of SNL, John Belushi walked past us. He asked to be in the picture and Chevy let him jump in.”

River Phoenix “He was very removed from Hollywood, a total sweetheart. I went to Florida and shot him at home but the studio shots were taken in LA a couple of months before he died. I think its one of the most amazing shoots I’ve ever done - there are so many incredible images in the set. I could tell he was high on this shoot but he put so much into it.”

Michael Tighe 75

Christopher Walken “I’d written him a letter.

Christopher’s wife is a big casting director and she took a liking to me so she set the shoot up at their house. It was nerve-wracking.

He’s very shy. But I was also so in awe of that circle of actors; Walken, De Niro, Keitel. They’d all had a profound impact on my life as an artist. He was really sweet.

I remember he brought out a bottle of expensive wine.”

Michael Jackson - “This was an assignment for Interview magazine. I wasn’t in awe of him, he was only 16 at the time and just starting his solo career. I was a rock and roller so to me, The Jackson Five were kind of goofy.”

Elizabeth Taylor - “This was on the set of the TV production of ‘Sweet Bird of Youth’ in 1989. It may not look like it but that finger isn’t directed at me but the director Nick Roeg. I just happened to be standing next to him and was lucky enough to capture the moment.”

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Sean Penn “This was me wheeling and dealing.

The actor Danny Aiello, who I was friendly with found out he was doing a play called Hurly Burly with Sean Penn. He showed Sean my work and I flew to LA for the first time. This was during rehearsals. Later I photographed Sean with his then wife Robin Wright; I’d heard he’d had a baby so went up to his house.

People always felt safe with me.”

Michael Tighe 77

“I knew Baryshnikov would also be there so I spent the entire time plotting how I would get a picture of him by himself,” says Tighe. “In the end I took the shots from above and it all worked out brilliantly. That one photo of him laying on the massage bed got me a huge amount of attention. It was just after he’d defected so the interest in him was huge. The magazine were thrilled that I’d pulled it out of the bag and started using me every month. People began to know my name; it was a little daunting.”

Tighe threw himself into the 70’s party scene. He attended the opening night of Studio 54 with Warhol and Bianca Jagger (“That was the first time I’d seen how people reacted to celebrity. I’d only ever photographed them in private but people kept coming up to Andy just to touch him, it was a little frightening”), and shot many big names including the then-Editor in Chief of Vogue Diana Vreeland, a sixteen-year-old Michael Jackson, John Travolta, Elizabeth Taylor, Alan Ginsburg, Bob Fosse, Kirk Douglas and Harvey Keitel.

He fell in love with Deirdre Shaw, the daughter of actress Angela Lansbury, after he shot a portrait of her for Interview magazine. “She was a heroin addict and I was a wide-eyed kid starting to make a lot of money.” he says. “Our relationship is well documented...and far from romantic.”

Tighe’s drug addiction took him down as fast he had ascended – he’s only been fully sober for three years – and is aware that he may have screwed up the chance to become as famous as his idol Irving Penn.

“I sabotaged a lot of opportunities,” he admits.

So it’s more than a testament to his innate talent that camera-shy actors such as Sean Penn, River Phoenix and Julia Roberts allowed him into their homes – not just once, but many times. And like a moth to a flame, after a break for rehab in the early 80’s, he picked up his camera and hasn’t stopped shooting since.

He also started acting, landing his first role in Jim Sheridan’s 2002 movie In America, but has recently rediscovered a fresh new passion for digital photography. “I’m excited by photography again,” he says, smiling widely. “I’m excited to set up shoots, get on the computer and feel that creative buzz.”

And he’s once again back doing what he does best, hustling for business by writing letters. Although this time, it’s via email.

“Recently, for the first time in a long time, I emailed an agent who I knew back in the day to ask if I could send my book to her clients,” he says. “She represents Alfred Molina and I really want to shoot him. I didn’t mention him by name but she got back to me that afternoon and said ‘I have a client who’d be perfect for you’. It was Alfred Molina. I couldn’t believe it!”

It may be almost forty years since he became the darling of New York society but it seems that the letter-writing kid from Manhattan hasn’t lost his golden touch.

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Danny deVito - “I shot Danny on the set of Hoffa. I’d always wanted to do a book documenting the making of a film from the early stages through to the premiere.

I’d shot his portrait and he seemed accessible so when I found out he was doing Hoffa I got in touch with him and was allowed on set. That’s Jack Nicholson behind him.”

Baryshnikov - “My first shoot for Interview.

This photograph literally launched my career overnight. There was a lot of buzz about it and this unknown photographer.”

Julia Roberts -“This was shot at a rented house in South Carolina during the filming of Sleeping with the Enemy. I met Julia through my friend, the actor Billy Baldwin. He said, ‘You really need to meet Eric Roberts’ sister’. Billy arranged for me to meet Julia in Venice, at this coffee shop on the sidewalk, and we become really good friends. That’s her mum in the shot with the cigarette.”

You can see more of Michael’s work at: www. michaeltighephotography.com

Harvey Keitel - “That’s Harvey with his baby daughter Stella. The thing that got me shooting again after recovery was seeing Raging Bull. It lit a fire in me and I became obsessed with shooting De Niro. I pretended to be a messenger and delivered my book to his office. They called me and said they would send it to Bob but he was insanely private at the time and didn’t do interviews. Somehow he got my book to Harvey, who lived in the same building. I did shoot De Niro later on and the photo of Harvey paved the way for that.

Michael Tighe 79

sm time to give

Rock the Kasbah with

Richard & Eve Branson As the title of his new book Screw Business as Usual implies, Sir Richard Branson built a business empire doing things his way, following his gut, and having fun along the way.

Branson also treated his customers with respect and made sure they had fun too. His Virgin Group became the symbol of good products at a good price, and always promised something often considered crazy and unexpected, like Virgin Galactic, which is about to bring civilian would-be astronauts into space.

Proud of his achievements in the business world, and worried about some of today’s most pressing ecological and economic problems, in 2004 Branson translated his business philosophy to charity and social activism when he launched Virgin Unite, his non-profit foundation, which is focused on entrepreneurial approaches to driving change in the world.

Richard Branson’s mother, Eve Branson, is active in the charity field herself. In 2004 she created the Eve Branson Foundation, whose mission is to improve the lives of women and young girls in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco (where Branson owns a luxury hotel, the Kasbah Tamadot), through access to business, education and health care. The Foundation provides them with educational opportunities, vocational training, work space, tools and other necessary resources to create marketable goods.

The main fundraising tool for Virgin Unite and the Eve Branson Foundation is the annual Rock the Kasbah

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

by Claudia Laffranchi

charity gala, created and chaired by Tim Souris with the collaboration of Adam Kreuter, Fiona Whitney and Holly Peppe.

The fifth Rock the Kasbah gala was held November 16, 2011 at Boulevard 3 in Hollywood and raised over $600,000. It featured performances by Mary J. Blige, The Pussycat Dolls and O.A.R.; an auction including items such as naming rights to a Virgin plane and a vacation at Richard Branson’s Necker Island house; and was supported by Geena Davis, will.i.am, Kevin Connolly, Amber Valletta, Natalie Imbruglia and many deep-pocketed Los Angeles and international guests. Richard Branson flew in for the night, whereas his mother was in town for a few days before the gala. The 90-year-old dynamo attended several brunches, luncheons and cocktail parties in her honor, being the first to ar-

A very energetic Eve Branson welcomed the guests of the Rock the Kasbah event in Los Angeles, where the guests enjoyed live perfomances by various artists including the Pussycat Dolls and the wonderful voice of Mary J. Bilige.

Exclusively for DELUXE Swiss Made, Claudia Laffranchi met Eve BRANSON for some personal insight.

What does the Eve Branson Foundation exactly do?

Eve Branson: We teach craft skills to the teenage girls in the poor Berber villages around the Kasbah Tamadot hotel to make saleable gifts. This way we help them to help themselves by acquiring the skills that will someday enable them to start their own businesses. As a result these girls, whose education usually stops around the age of 13, are able to become economically self-sufficient and to generate income to support themselves and their families. rive and one of the last to leave, always ready to speak about her foundation and its mission. The day of the gala she helped auction off a Harry Winston watch she was wearing for the event. And the day after she invited her closest collaborators to her hotel room (modest for a billionaire’s mother standards - clearly the lady doesn’t like to waste money on luxuries) and over a celebration of cheese and wine from a local grocery store (no fancy room service either!) she was excitedly learning how to use her brand new iPad. Now we know where Richard Branson got his energy and stamina from!

What kind of presence do you have in Morocco?

We have built craft houses with an apartment for visiting teachers above the workplaces. We’re now working in three villages and expanding to more soon.

The situation of these women depends on social, cultural, religious and political issues typical of the area. Is the Eve Branson Foundation well accepted and really allowed to help?

We have had nothing but happy, welcoming support from their families, both men and women. We were never ostracized and all feedback has been extremely positive in the Berber area.

Richard & Eve Branson 81

What follows is an exclusive interview by Claudia Laffranchi for DELUXE Swiss Made with Sir Richard Branson.

Claudia Laffranchi: Why did you create Virgin Unite?

Sir Richard Branson: I have been fortunate to be successful in business and have made some great decisions (and some not so good ones!), but one thing I have learnt is that businesses can change things for the better. When Virgin Unite started in 2004, we met with over 400 Virgin staff and people from the social sector, business world and government to see how they thought we could make the most difference. Time and again they told us: don’t shy away from the big (and sometimes tough) issues like youth, diseases of poverty and the environment; remember that sharing skills and resources can be just as important as giving money; partner with inspirational grass-roots community organisations; be transparent and accountable and make it easy and fun to get involved with. Today, Virgin Unite unites people to tackle social and environmental problems with an entrepreneurial approach and to help revolutionise the way businesses and the social sector work together. I’m inspired every day I meet someone that has been positively impacted by an initiative that Virgin Unite supports. Whether it is Pride’n’Purpose, the South African village helped by the efforts of Virgin Limited Edition to create a crèche and water holes, or the thousands of people helped in the Bhubezi clinic that receive medication for AIDS. Virgin Unite’s overheads are covered by the Virgin Group, meaning that 100% of additional donations received go direct to the frontline where they are needed most.

Did you ever receive criticism, threats or just “road blocks” by local religious and political authorities in the countries where you operate VU projects?

When you are dealing with unacceptable issues in the world like youth homelessness, climate change and health, it is inevitable that people will put barriers in your way. It is only by working together that we will have a hope of addressing the root causes of such issues in the world; we can’t do it alone. Virgin Unite acts as a convening force working DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

amongst governments, business and the social sector for positive outcomes and often develops interesting approaches to sometimes seemingly impossible issues. Virgin Unite also supported me in forming The Elders along with my great friend Peter Gabriel, something we are all very pleased to have been a part of creating. The Elders are a remarkable group of independent global leaders, brought together by another dear friend, Nelson Mandela, who work together to support peace and human rights around the world. The Elders have come across some very entrenched positions but their greatest asset is that they have no agenda, no vested interest, aside from humanity. They are totally independent. The Elders have lent their support to peace and reconciliation efforts in areas such as Ivory Coast, Cyprus, Sudan, Zimbabwe and the Middle East. They have also addressed a number of global issues, such as climate change and promoting equality for women and girls.

Let me play the devilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advocate. Wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t it just be easier to give your private or company money to Virgin Unite and the Eve Branson Foundation instead of producing a big party like Rock The Kasbah?

Giving money is one route to tackling issues. Sometimes your time and your voice are more important.

We are in the fortunate position of having supporters and people who do both, and events like RTK help them come together to understand the issues and create awareness. We also believe that putting change at the core of our businesses leverages far greater change. Rather than only writing a cheque, they use all their assets to drive change for the long term. For example, we work with Virgin Mobile in the U.S. to help stop youth homelessness. Even today, there are some 2 million young people in the U.S. without a home. Virgin Mobile has empowered 5 million customers to help end youth homelessness through a range of innovative initiatives, such as donating 100% of profits from a phone recycling scheme, throwing a free concert, and successfully lobbied Congress for the introduction of a National Homeless Youth Awareness Month, and reaches some 68 million people through the campaigns they run to build awareness.

Can charity really help achieve social and political justice, or is it just a drop in the bucket?

We need to do everything we can in the world to end injustice. Charity can certainly play a role in this, especially linked to emergency situations to ensure we end immense suffering. We do need to go far beyond charity to really drive the scale of change in the world and business must play a role in this. We have a wonderful opportunity to revolutionise the way we do business to put people and

Richard & Eve Branson 83

planet at our very core. That’s what my most recent book Screw Business as Usual addresses. It celebrates the stories of people who have already shown that business can be a force for good, and that doing good is actually good for business. A good example of screwing business as usual is the creation of the independent not for profit, the Carbon War Room, which harnesses the unique influence, resources and spirit of entrepreneurs to mobilise capital, innovation and expertise to deliver market-driven solutions to reduce carbon. Protecting our incredible natural resources is the opportunity of our lifetime. We made great progress over the past 12 months. Rather than waiting for governments to work out policy solutions, the CWR team launched two websites: one to promote efficiency in shipping and another to rank and chart the latest in sustainable aviation biofuels. Earlier this year CWR launched a program to help finance energy-efficient retrofits of buildings, which was kicked off with a $650 million investment scheme in Florida and California.

This will create hundreds of jobs.

World population is growing fast, and this means an increased use of natural resources which cannot be replaced. Which are your thoughts about this?

With a world population of 7 billion and increasing levels of demand for goods and services, we are on a rapid path to destroy the very natural resources that keep us alive; this will only perpetuate growing inequity in the world. Since the Industrial Age, businesses have built their wealth off the use of natural resources.

Mother Nature’s assets are decreasing rapidly and this will have devastating impacts on the lives of our children and grandchildren unless businesses start to value and protect these natural resources. Business as usual is no longer an option. What is an option is to reinvent capitalism to truly be a force for good in the world.

Business reinvention can come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, from transforming existing businesses to creating whole new business models. Some of these companies are profit making, such as Participant Films, which makes movies that entertain and change the world. Another example is Husk Power, bringing electricity powered by corn husks to thousands of people in India. Others put any profits or social investments back into solving the issue they were built to tackle, like the Big Issue, providing work for homeless people. Existing businesses are also embracing new ways of doing business with great results for their bottom lines. For example, retailer Marks & Spencer launched ‘Plan A’ in 2007 and now recycles 94% of the waste generated by their stores, has reduced carbon emissions by over 13% and saved over 70 million pounds in 2010. As I was saying before, doing good can be really good for business as well.

You can find out more on Virgin Unite activities and how to support or get involved by visiting the dedicated website: www.virginunite.com DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Richard Branson I was born in 1950 and educated at Stowe School.

It was here that I set up Student magazine when I was 16.

In 1970 I founded Virgin as a mail-order record retailer, and shortly afterwards I opened a record shop in Oxford Street, London. In 1972 we built a recording studio in Oxfordshire where the first Virgin artist, Mike Oldfield, recorded ‘Tubular Bells’.

In 1977 we signed the Sex Pistols and we went on to sign many household names from Culture Club to the Rolling Stones, helping to make Virgin Music one of the top six record companies in the world.

With around 200 companies in over 30 countries, the Virgin Group has now expanded into leisure, travel, tourism, mobile, broadband, TV, radio, music festivals, finance and health and through Virgin Green Fund we are investing in renewable energy and resource efficiency.

In February 2007, we announced the Virgin Earth Challenge - a $25 million prize to encourage a viable technology which will result in the net removal of anthropogenic, atmospheric greenhouse gases. In July of the same year I had the honour of joining my good friend Peter Gabriel, Nelson Mandela, Graça Machel, and Desmond Tutu to announce the formation of The Elders, a group of leaders to contribute their wisdom, independent leadership and integrity to tackle some of the world’s toughest problems.

I am also very proud of the work of Virgin Unite, our not-for-profit entrepreneurial foundation, which continues to focus on entrepreneurial approaches to social and environmental issues and enjoy supporting their work in every way I can.

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sm gourmet

Main Course: Savouring Time Imagine a sunny day in Spring, on a nice terrace, indulging your palate with a delicious plate prepared by 14 Gault Millau chef while sipping your favorite wine and the beautiful Lake Maggiore as the backdrop of your canvas. Now imagine no further and head south to the Restaurant Marina in Ascona, on the shores of Lake Maggiore, where Master chef Salvatore Frequente and his team will take care of the rest.

Salvatore Frequente, 37, focuses his cuisine on the four elements of the earth: his grill specialities are fiery, the finest fish and seafood represent the water, the soil delivers high-quality vegetables and garnishing and, with a wink, the air is the origin of his poultry delicacies. After holding different positions in establishments of the Tschuggen Hotel Group, he now has a captivating double role, allowing him twice a year to change from an altitude of 200 to 1,800 metres. During the summer months he is the chef at the lifestyle restaurant Marina of the five star hotel Eden Roc on the shores of Lake Maggiore, and from December to April, he is behind the stoves of the Calton Hotel, where he is responsible for the culinary delicacies of this modern grand hotel.

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Savouring time A real feast for your palates

Branzino alla griglia con purĂŠe di Fagioli Cannellini

GOURMET - Salvatore Frequente 87

Spaghetti con Calamaretti e verdura mediterranee

The Marina lifestyle restaurant has blossomed into a popular meeting place in Ascona. It offers yacht owners a private place to moor.

And right on the lakeshore, the lounge area invites you to enjoy a cocktail at sunset or a latte on a sunny Sunday morning. The interior was decorated by interior designer Carlo Rampazzi in retro style of the seventies and loads the large terrace outside for enjoyable hours with uninterrupted open views of the sparkling lake.

Variazione di Foie Gras con Brioche e Gelantina di Lamponi

For more information or reservations: www.edenroc.ch DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Whether admit the impressive mountain landscape in Arosa or alongside the sparkling lake in Ascona, whether at 1,800 or 200 metres altitude – enjoy a golf break in one of the topclass establishments of the Tschuggen Hotel Group and at one of Europe’s highest 18-hole courses in the Grisons mountains or at a course directly on the shores of Lake Maggiore in the sunny canton of Ticino.

Golf Break in the Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona: Three nights’ accommodation including breakfast, dine around and pampering programme in the Eden Roc Spa with facial, pedicure, dine around, two green fees for the golf courses Patriziale in Ascona und Gerre in Losone, a precious golf present, a spa massage and the access to the Eden Roc Spa from CHF 1135 per person (available until 14th June and from 16th September – 21st October 2012).

5th Tschuggen Golf Trophy in the Tschuggen Grand Hotel in Arosa: Two nights’ accommodation including breakfast, dine around, participation at the 5th Golf Trophy on Saturday, aperitif and dinner with golf-evening program, use of the Tschuggen Express and access to the Tschuggen Bergoase from CHF 595 per person (available from 17th – 19th August 2012).

Golf Break for Five Days in the Sporthotel Valsana in Arosa: Four nights´ accommodation including breakfast, half board, two green fees for the Arosa golf course, two golf lunch snacks, one part body massage and the Valsana well-being package from CHF 800 per person (available from 22nd June – 23rd September 2012).

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MEMBERS OF TSCHUGGEN HOTEL GROUP

sm design award

Designed for your Senses

The Swiss company Bagno Sasso won the world’s most coveted design prize «GOOD DESIGN» 2011 from the «Chicago Athenaeum Museum of Architecture and Design». This award is a world recognized quality seal for outstanding product design and architecture.

Already in 2007, Bagno Sasso won the red dot design award, and thus the two most famous design awards worldwide.

The coveted «Good Design» award from the «Chicago Athenaeum Museum of Architecture and Design» and «The European Centre for Architecture Art Design and Urban Studies» is one of the oldest and most traditional design awards worldwide and is regarded as the Oscar in the design competition. Founded in 1950, the prize is awarded annually to innovative and sophisticated designs from around the world. Every year, a renowned jury of highly respected experts judge in the various categories. In the category Bath & Accessories the freestanding wooden bathtub «Ocean Sailor» from the Swiss company Bagno Sasso was awarded.

During the last 16 years Bagno Sasso has qualified in the field of high-quality interior design, especially for bath and wellness, and product design. With his design award Bagno Sasso is on one level with global players such as Apple or BMW. Every year, several thousands manufacturers, industrial design offices, architects and designers from over 48 nations submit the best of their new product designs to the world’s most important design program that honors design innovation, vision, sustainability, material and aesthetics of the product.

Rolf Senti, owner and CEO of Bagno Sasso: «This particular award fills me and my team with great pride. As a Swiss SME we gain an international reputation with our innovative product ideas, thought-material concept, combined with high-quality craftsmanship. Our freestanding wooden bathtub «Ocean Sailor» convinced the jury on all counts. The apDELUXE Swiss Made magazine

Freestanding wooden bathtub «Ocean Sailor» peal of the freestanding wooden bathtub lies in its distinguished form and the elegant and distinct pattern that resembles a zebra with its characteristic black-and-white stripes. The unusual wood, «Alpi Makasar», gives a special character to the bathtub. Taking a bath in the «Ocean Sailor» is a highly restful experience that also provides balm for the soul. The manufacturing process has been borrowed from the Formular 1 technique and is worldwide unique. Every tub has been handmade in Switzerland, so each one is truly individual.»

Together with internationally well-known designers, Bagno Sasso develops new and individual products for the bathroom. The company’s exquisite products have won numerous awards, including the internationally coveted «red dot design award best of the best» for its «Wedge» concrete washbasin. Or the wash basin «Ammonit», which has won the «Innovation award».

Design Award - Bagno Sasso 91

Ocean Wing

The Swiss company Bagno Sasso really sets trends and creates new ideas for fantastic spa moments. The latest models of bathtubs speak their own architectural language and set eye-catching trends in modern bath lounges.

Plain bathrooms were yesterday – with unique forms, textures and materials Bagno Sasso creates a new world in the bathroom. Together with the German designer Manuel Dreesmann, Bagno Sasso developed two eye-catching bathtub models «Ocean Wing» and «Ocean Wave». «Design is our passion and creating new sensational bathroom trends is our challenge. The new bathtubs are characterized by modern and stylish elements and fit perfectly into the bath lounge», says Rolf Senti, owner and CEO of Bagno Sasso.

Ocean Wave

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

For more information on the company and the award, visit: www.bagnosasso.com and www.chi-athenaeum.org.

AS UNIQUE AS YOUR LOVE

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sm watch testing

Holding the Beat Sports watches are designed to take a beating, so you don’t have to think about them.

Jumping out of an airplane? No problem.

Diving down to the depths? Bring it.

Lifting weights in the gym? No sweat, pun intended.

Sports watches are the timepiece version of the Swiss Army Knife, able to do just about anything, while still looking good.

Created to be all-around timepiece, today’s quality sports watches can take everything you can dish out, and more.

by Keith Strandberg

Professional Specifications The best sports watches have exacting specifications, regardless of the intended use. A true sports watch should have at least 100 meter water resistance, for example, but most of the best have at least 200 meters, while some go to even more extremes.

In addition to water resistance, sports watches are also tested for temperature changes (from very cold to very warm and humid, and everything in between), shock resistance, pressure resistance, perspiration resistance and more.

One extreme example is CX Swiss Military, which makes the world record holder for diving watches -- the “20,000 Feet.” Massive, this timepiece is a real tool, capable of going down to unheard of depths DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

– 20,000 feet (6,000 meters), and it’s a COSC-certified automatic chronograph as well. “We came across several articles in diving magazines where professional divers complained about today’s diving watches being ‘chocolate box’ watches, good for the yacht club but not of much use when doing some serious diving,” says president Frank M. Bürgin.

“We decided to buck that trend and come up with a new interpretation of the ultimate diving watch – ultimate not in price or complications (who needs a tourbillion when diving?), but ultimate as in ‘reduced to the max’ – form following functionality, no frills, the perfect back-up instrument that will never let you down.”

Testing, Testing and More Testing Sports watches are put through a battery of tests that push them to their limits. Often, engineers can only finalize designs once they have pushed the timepieces to their breaking points, which means subjecting them to drops, incredible conditions and much more.

TAG Heuer has a “torture chamber” where watches are put through every possible test until they are destroyed. “We do sample testing and the tests we perform usually destroy the watch, so we don’t sell a product once it’s tested — except we do water-resistance and chronometric precision testing on all our watches,” says Luca Verardo, director, laboratory department, TAG Heuer.

“The major tests performed on every TAG Heuer sports watch and chronograph are: water-resistance, mechanical endurance (vibration-resistance, shock-resistance, linear and angular acceleration, abrasion-resistance, corrosion-resistance (to seawater, perspiration and UV rays), functional element resistance (turning bezel rotation, pushbutton and crown fatigue, etc.), performance measurement (night-time readability, anti-reflection, etc.) and chronometric precision measurement.”

Bremont Watch Company developed and refined its revolutionary movement suspension system with Martin-Baker, the world’s leading ejector seat company. Martin-Baker wanted to offer a timepiece to survivors who successfully ejected from their seats, but they wanted a timepiece that could withstand the same experience.

“The Martin-Baker watches have to go through all the tests that the ejector seat has to go through, like vibration, shock, climate, temperature extremes, salt and much more,” says Nick English, co-founder of Bremont Watch Company. ”We had to redesign the way the watch works. We have new technology in the case, so the movement is suspended in a rubber mount. It took two years of testing to develop this.”

Bremont faced a host of issues as the watches went through the testing. “Watch movements were destroying themselves, so the movements had to be suspended in a rubberized movement mount which absorbed up to 85% of the vibrations,” English says. “This rubber took a long time to get the right consistency and flexibility. The case had to be modified to be able to house such a mount, and it meant that the movement is never directly in contact with the case, but instead has this rubber suspension mechanism protecting it.

“In addition, the case and crystal design had to be altered to ensure crystals did not ‘pop out’ at altitude,” English continues. “The movement is encased in a soft iron Faraday cage to protect it from all electrostatic and magnetic forces. Also, the case has been hardened to make it six times more scratch resistant WATCH TESTING 95

than normal watch grade steel.”

As sports watches will often be used in real world conditions, they have to do what they say they can do.

“Water resistance and general ruggedness, given the conditions these watches will be used under, are the most important tests for us,” says CX Swiss Military’s Bürgin. “Our philosophy here is quite clear : ‘No Compromise.’ We strive to manufacture not your average SUV but the equivalent of the rugged Land Rover Defender, a ‘mean’ watch that will survive anything you can throw at it.

“The prototype of the 20’000 FEET was tested not only for water resistance (to 7’500 meters) but also for the functionality and durability of ‘the weakest links,’ namely the crown, pushers and buckle. In addition to these laboratory-condition tests we also performed real-life tests – again to show that the watch is nearly indestructible: we tried to blow up the watch with dynamite; we shot at the watch with a shotgun; we dropped the watch while parachuting from a height of 1,500 meters; the University of Kiel, Germany tested our watch with their diving robot off the coast of Chile, lowering it to a depth of 6,053 meters – and the watch survived it all.”

Hanhart has been making stopwatches and chronographs for more than 100 years and the company prides itself on being an instrument watch company. Testing is an important part of the product development process, because Hanhart watches have to work.

“Shock, impact, durability, corrosion, scratch resistance, precision/accuracy and water proof tests are the most important tests for Hanhart watches,” says Thomas Morf, president of Hanhart. “We don’t manufacture dress watches. Our watches are tools and have to perform that way. That’s why we conduct rigorous tests on all our watches.“

Water Resistance Water resistance is a key feature for sports watches, as they have to be able to go from the gym to the pool to the hot tub to the shower to the office, and keep on ticking without having any issues with water or humidity (remember the plastic sports watches that would fog up?).

“All our diving watches are tested cased and in water – not just a sample but 100% of the watches,” says CX Swiss Military’s Bürgin. “One of the main benefits is that any humidity already trapped in the watch before testing will be detected after testing the watch in the water (during the drying process) – this eliminates the issue of customers complaining about perfectly water resistant watches fogging up under certain atmospheric conditions.

“People looking for a water resistant watch often think if the watch is rated 10 ATM/100 meters, they will never experience any problems when merely swimming or working around water,” he continues. “The pressure of 10 ATM/100 mete can easily be exceeded when jumping off a diving board or cleaning the tiles on your driveway using a power hose. We therefore recommend at least 20 ATM/200 meters to be on the safe side.”

Thanks to all this extreme testing, you can strap on a quality sports watch and do just about anything without having to worry whether your watch is going to be OK. Whether it’s jumping out of an airplane, diving to the bottom of the sea or running a marathon, your watch can keep up.

Can you?

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

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www.SWISSMADEMAGAZINE.com

Contact us: info@swissmademagazine.com

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sm directories

URWERK 202S

Featured brands Aerowatch www.aerowatch.ch

De Bethune www.debethune.com

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Alpina Watch www.alpina-watches.com

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Milus www.milus.com

ARTYA www.artya.com

Dubey & Schaldebrand www.dubeywatch.com

Mido www.mido.ch

Antoine Prezluso www.antoine-preziuso.com

Eberhard & Co www.eberhard-co-watches.ch

Omega www.omegawatches.com

Audemars Piguet www.audemarspiguet.com

Emile Chouriet www.emile-chouriet.ch

Parmigiani www.parmigiani.ch

Ball Watch www.ballwatch.com

FrĂŠdĂŠrique Constant www.frederique-constant.com

Patek Philippe www.patek.com

Balmain www.balmainwatches.com

Gc Watches www.gcwatches.com

Peter Tanisman www.peter-tanisman.com

Blancpain www.blancpain.com

Girard-Perregaux www.girard-perregaux.com

Piaget www.piaget.com

Breguet www.breguet.com

Graham London www.graham-london.com

Rado www.rado.com

Breitling www.breitling.com

Hanhart www.hanhart.com

Rolex www.rolex.com

Bremont www.bremont.com

Harry Winston www.harry-winston.com

Romain Jerome www.romainjerome.ch

Bvlgari www.bulgari.com

H. Moser & Cie www.h-moser.com

TAG Heuer www.tagheuer.com

Carl F. Bucherer www.carl-f-bucherer.com

HYT www.hytwatches.com

Tissot www.tissot.ch

Cartier www.cartier.com

Hublot www.hublot.com

Ulysse Nardin www.universal.ch

Certina www.certina.com

Jaeger LeCoultre www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

Urwerk www.urwerk.com

Century www.century.ch

Jean Richard www.jeanrichard.com

Vacheron Constantin www.vacheron.ch

Bvlgari www.bulgari.com

Ladoire www.ladoire.ch

Van Cleef & Arpels www.vancleef-arpels.com.com

Chanel www.chanel.com

Longines www.longines.com

Victorinox Swiss Army www.victorinoxswissarmy.com

Chopard www.chopard.com

Louis Moinet www.louismoinet.com

Versace www.versacepreciousitems.com

Concord www.concord.ch

Louis Erard www.louiserard.ch

Zenith www.zenith-watches.com

Cuervos y Sobrinos www.cuervoysobrinos.com

Maurice Lacroix www.mauricelacroix.com

Zino Davidoff www.zinodavidoff.com

DELUXE Swiss Made magazine

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