The original swissnex Boston
Travel Guide to Switzerland
the swissnex Boston team members’ travel secrets revealed
Dear Friend of swissnex Boston The Holiday season is traditionally a time of giving and sharing. All year long, at swissnex Boston, we share with you the best and brightest Switzerland has to offer in Art, Science, Education and Innovation. “We”, that is an enthusiastic team of people with Swiss roots and/or Swiss bonds, living in Boston and New York. Whenever we get the chance to go back to our “Homeland”, we try to take advantage of our time there to the fullest – and we know exactly how to do that. After we shared our favorite cooking recipes with you last year, we are now revealing our very personal travel secrets. From ice-skating in the fairy tale landscape of the Engadin to sunbathing on the Riviera of the Lake Thun; from eating dinner on a chestnut tree in Ticino (watch out for the squirrels!) to mingling with hundreds of Butterflies in the Papillorama – we got you covered. We hope you enjoy your future adventures in Switzerland with our Swiss Travel guide! Thus, we wish you very happy holidays and are looking forward to reconnecting with you in 2015! Your swissnex Boston Team
Ice skating through the forest by Sarah Schranz
Where: Engadin (GR) When: Winter
When it’s getting cold up in the alpine regions of Switzerland and snow turns the landscape into a winter wonderland, the Engadin in Grisons has a very special activity to offer: the so called ‘Eisweg Engadin’, an ice trail through the forest. Starting and ending in the village of Sur En, you can skate along the Inn River on a 3km long hiking trail that has been turned into a skating rink. Enjoy a day in nature where the only sound you hear comes from the blades below your feet. Once you’re exhausted but content, you can take the bus or car back to Scuol. In this picturesque village you should make a stopover in the ‘Bogn Engiadina’, a spa supplied by health-giving springs discovered hundreds of years ago. Relax in the Roman-Irish bath, one of the saunas or the numerous hot springs to prevent sore muscles the next day.
Discover historic places with contemporary urban spirit by Alexandra Zingg Where: Basel When: Part 1: December 6th Part 2: Summer The best day for the first part of your Basel tour is December 6, “Santiklaus” day. You will start walking down “Spalenberg”, Basel completely renovated this “Fussgängerzone”-right, no cars. Here, your first stop is at Wanner, a store that sells spectacular Christmas tree decorations all year long. Afterwards, it is time for the best “Grättimaa” ever, at the tiny Bakery called “Gilgen” further down - it has been there for generations and it still looks the same. With your delicious sugary pastry in hand, you will be ready for some sightseeing. Once all the way down “Spalenberg”, you hit “Marktplatz” with the “Rathaus”. Now, continue to the famous “Rhysprung” and walk all the way up until you hit “Münsterplatz”. The “Münster” is one of the most famous landmarks of Basel. Continue to walk towards the river and enjoy the view over Basel before going down the stairs to take the little ferry over the Rhine, called “Fähri”. The Fähri and the Rhine river are best enjoyed in summer. Once arriving on the other side of the river, take a left and walk down “Oberer/Unterer Rheinweg” with its many “Buvette” (small outdoor coffees/restaurants/bars along the Rhine) and stop at one. For the real experience, take your drink and sit directly alongside the river. Time to go swimming! Take your “Fisch”, a small bag shaped like a goldfish that keeps your posessions dry, while you swim down the Rhine. It is best to ask someone who has done it to go with you. You will definitely be hungry afterwards, so walk over “Mittlere Brücke” into Gerbergasse and get some “Läggerli” in the “Läggerlihuus” (yes, it is all about the Basler Läggerli there). Walk down to the end of the street and you will hit “Barfüsserplatz”. Go left to have a look at the famous Tinguely Fountain (the other major subject on postcards of Basel). Time for some shopping. Swing on your bike and cross the river again to go to “Kleinbasel”. At “Feldbergstrasse”, there are plenty of little places to shop and relax. Don’t miss the nice galleries in the same street. Time for a drink! Along the Rhine you will hit one of the best spots in Basel, Cargo Bar. You can sit outside in summer, or in winter you can sit inside while enjoying the lovely view on the river and the city.
La fête de l’Escalade by Sophie Cerny
Where: Geneva When: Weekend closest to December 11th
Every year from Friday through Sunday on the weekend closest to December 11, the city-canton of Geneva celebrates “l’Escalade” the city’s victory over the Duke of Savoy’s invading troops in 1602. The Genevois defended their city with hand-to-hand weaponry, and the marmite - or pot - of one Mère Royaume, who (according to legend) vanquished one enemy soldier and fended off his companions by throwing her cauldron of hot vegetable soup at these troops who pushed their way up the street beneath her window. Nowadays, to commemorate this historic event, a large, torch-bearing procession dressed in period costumes proceeds through the streets of the old city along both banks of the Rhone. Arriving in good spirits at St. Peter’s Cathedral, the participants sing patriotic songs. The entire ceremony concludes with general merrymaking. In honor of the redoubtable Mme. Royaume, throughout the city, pastry shops offer chocolate soup pots filled with marzipan vegetables. Although tossing chocolate soup cauldrons from windows isn’t encouraged, the Genevois happily smash the pots indoors and eat the resulting shards. The children dress up in costume and sing for money in Geneva’s traditional songs Cé qu’è lainô and Ah ! La Belle Escalade. The Escalade is Geneva’s protestant answer to Carnivale. It is the city’s largest cultural event; participants plan and practice all year.
A trip to the heart of Switzerland by Andreas Rufer
Where: Emmental (BE) When: Year round
You want to begin your visit in the Emmental with a hearty “Buure Zmorge” (Farmer’s breakfast) at the Emmentaler Schaukäserei (Showdairy) in Affoltern, and then discover the traditional production of Emmentaler cheese. The traditional production shows you how an Emmentaler AOP is produced all by hand. Watch through the big window directly in the production hall. This is it - if you are in the Emmental you have to see how the the most popular cheese in the world is made. Each day at 4 pm the Emmentaler will be taken out from the pot by hand; something not to be missed. But there is much to discover around the Showdairy, including a petting zoo with goats, the rare white Swiss Chicken or discover the beauty of their garden with over 50 flowers to see, smell and even taste. A 25 minute car drive (or a 1.5 hour bike tour) brings you to the: Sensorium in Rüttihubelbad The Sensorium in Rüttihubelbad is all about the activation of sensory perceptions. The visitors - specifically children and young people – can playfully discover over 70 adventures: Stations to listen to common and uncommon phenomena, to see, smell and feel. You can experience optical phenomena on rotating discs, a wide variety of odors from the scent trees, stones and woods or feel vibrations from sound. The sensorium Rüttelhubelbad has something fun and interesting for young and old.
Discover a hidden waterfall by Cyril Racchetta Where: Tine de Conflens (VD) When: Summer
At the crossroad between the Beach of Dany Boyle and The Lord of The Rings, the Tine de Conflens is a peaceful haven at the heart of the Canton Vaud. But trust us, you wouldn’t guess! Grab your hiking shoes, pack up your picnic bag and get ready to enjoy an exotic and relaxing trip. The designation “Tine de Conflens” originates from the waldstein patois and means “waterfall of confluences”, illustrating the splendid reunion of the famous Venoge and the Veyron in a rocky quarry below an impressive waterfall. There are two ways to access the site: From La Sarraz (20 minutes): you can park your car near the soccer field and walk upstream the Venoge for a couple hundred meters before taking the trail at the sign (on the left). Follow the trail into the forest. From there, enjoy a lovely walk of about 20 minutes. From Ferreyres: there is a parking lot 10 minutes away from the waterfall. From La Sarraz, follow Ferreyres. Shortly before the village of Ferreyres, turn left at the Café de la Tine. The roads slopes down, goes over the Venoge, then continues up again. At the first right curve, turn left. The parking lot is located right behind the guardrail. We recommend that you enjoy the walk from La Sarraz as the trail winds you up in the forest and offers you breathtaking views over the molasses-colored cliffs surrounding la Venoge. To perfect your experience, do the following: Pack a picnic bag and enjoy a family brunch or a romantic getaway in this peaceful scenery. Plan ahead! The trail can get very slippery when wet, and the place can be packed on warm and sunny week-ends. Do NOT forget your camera… and make sure it’s fully charged!
Aareböötle (floating on the Aare River) by Anita Suter
Where: Between Berne and Thun (BE) When: Summer
Imagine a hot day with plenty of sunshine in Berne. Here is what you need to do: Dig out your rubber boat and paddles (what, you didn’t bring them? No worries, your Bernese friends got you covered), grab some people you don’t mind being stuck in a small space with, go to the main station and catch a train in the direction of Thun. You will have no trouble finding the right track as on any given warm weekend plenty of other paddlers and boaters will lead the way. Depending on the intended length of the journey and the size of your adventurous spirit you can stay on the train all the way to Thun or hop off in Uttigen or Kiesen. You won’t need a return ticket as you’re going to float all the way back to Berne. Once the boat is in the water there is not much else to do other than relax there, make sure you don’t hit the trees and bushes along the riverbanks or any fellow boaters, and – if you’re tough enough – venture out of the boat to take a dip in the water. On the way there are plenty of pretty spots to stop for a campfire. So make sure to bring not only food and drinks, but also some newspaper and a lighter. Once your bellies are full, hop back into your boat for the second stretch. It will be easy to notice when you’re about to reach your final destination: You will pass the “Eichholz” on your left, a campground with a huge green, where hundreds if not thousands of people spend their Saturdays and Sundays gathering on the river shore, throwing Frisbees, playing guitars, sitting around their fires and simply enjoying the sweetness of the (sometimes rare) hot summer days. From the Eichholz on you will be accompanied by a swarm of swimmers, who will float down the river in between the boats. Make sure to keep your paddles away from them! The swimmers will leap ashore at the Marzili, Switzerland’s most famous (and free) public swimming area. And that’s where you’ll pull out your boat and have a homemade ice cream from award winning Gelateria di Berna while waiting for your device of transport to be deflated.
Eat local - on a chestnut tree by Niccolo Iorno
Where: Grotto Milani, Ludiano, Valle di Blenio (TI) When: Summer
After a day spent baking on the rocks of the Verzasca and some dips in the crystalline ice cold alpine waters of the river; try to head to Ludiano in Val di Blenio to experience some of the delicacies that Ticino has to offer. Grotto Milani, a family owned restaurant in the middle of the chestnut tree forest of Lodrino, has what you are looking for. Call ahead of time and ask for the chestnut tree table. You and your family will be able to enjoy your dinner surrounded by branches and squirrels, just watch out not to sit on a chestnut’s spiny burr. You could start with a platter of “affettato misto”, a diverse set of local charcuterie, continue with a dish of risotto with a topping of “porcini” mushrooms and end your experience with a “torta di pane” (literally bred pie). Remember that in Ticino it is considered rude not to have at least one “boccalino” of merlot (typical regional wine) to enjoy even more the local flavors. Just watch out at the end of the dinner when you have to climb down the tree.
Be enchanted by the Butterflies by Sophie Sithamma
Where: Papiliorama, Kerzers (FR) When: Year round
When visiting Neuchâtel (means in old French “new castle), one thinks about wandering around its attractive old town: being amazed by the Collégiale Church built in 1185 or spotting one of the 140+ street fountains. This city surely has a much to offer and plenty to see. The city made it easy for its inhabitants and tourist to get around: Neuchatel has a reliable public transportation network. A thirty-minute train ride from Neuchâtel will take you to Papiliorama, where fauna and flora are on display to pay a tribute to biodiversity. The mission of Papiliorama is two-fold: recreational and educational. Visitors’ walk through a large variety of tropical birds and butterflies and are reminded about environmental challenges to preserve tropical forests and its ecosystem. Did you know that Papiliorama “helps protect 11,000 hectares of tropical nature in Belize?”, the website says. Visiting the Papiliorama not only means discovering what our wonderful planet hosts but also making an environmentally-conscious action to do our best to preserve it.
Combine a gorgeous mountain lake with authentic culinary treasures by Felix Moesner Where: Seealpsee, Wasserauen (AI) When: June - October
Seealpsee is a true jewel hidden in the Appenzell Alps. Experience authentic culture and innovative culinary treasures along the way. Seealpsee is a gorgeous mountain lake at an elevation of 3750 ft and its surface is the size of 12 soccer fields. The lake can be reached on foot from Wasserauen or from Ebenalp. A network of wonderful hiking routes around Ebenalp connects Seealpsee with other notable sights, such as the Wildkirchli and Säntis. If you want to spend a night in the Alps, my favorite spots are the two mountain guesthouses Forelle and Seealpsee with large open air terraces, dominating the western end of the lake. The guesthouses are an hour hike uphill from the train station Wasserrauen. They offer very basic alpine accommodations, but feature a breathtaking lake view. The first time, the lake view from the window reminded me to the movie Jurassic Park (without the dinosaurs, of course). Seealpsee is a great base camp for more hiking and exploring the beautiful scenery, surrounded by cute cows – yes, they are everywhere. Dinner on the patios by the lake is supremely enjoyable. Try local dishes such as Chäshörnli and the local beer Quöllfrisch or Vollmond Bier. Locher has an innovative approach to brewing these beers and exports them around the globe. The mountain lake was the most beautiful place I have ever been. The area is relatively secluded with few tourists. The station Wasserrauen is 2 hours by train from Zurich. You will have to change trains in the quaint town of Appenzell.
Lake Thun and the Gateway to the Alps by Elizabeth Galvin
Where: Thun (BE) When: Summer
For many, Switzerland’s main attraction is the Alp region for snowy adventures, but it may not be known that there are many summer destinations in Switzerland that are more reminiscent of the French riviera than this small Alpine country. Even as a landlocked country that does not touch any ocean, the Swiss can enjoy swimming or sunbathing in plenty of their large clear lakes. Located about a 20 minute train ride outside of Bern, the town of Thun sits at the foot of the Alps in the Interlaken region. This small town is quintessentially Swiss, with Bernese style buildings with dark wood trim, windows filled with geraniums and charming covered bridges that cross the Aare River, whose mountain water flows directly to Bern. While plenty of Swiss float on blow-up rafts from Thun to Bern, some visitors choose to stay at the river’s source, the Lake of Thun. On a hot clear July afternoon, it is easy to spot the rainbow of colored umbrellas of sunbathers along the banks of the Lake Thun. At the Recreational Center and Marina, visitors can not only enjoy the lake itself, but a number of other amenities available for the entire family. There are several swimming pools reserved for swimming laps, diving boards and even a children’s pool with a water slide. There are lockers, changing rooms, showers, a restaurant and a convenience store that sells snacks. For children, there are playgrounds and beach volley ball courts. It is easy to spend the day by the lake with a variety of activities for the entire family. On a clear sunny day in the summer, it is hard to imagine a better place with a better view than on the bank of Lake Thun, sitting at the Gateway to the Alps.