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DE BELGISCHE DIAMANTNIJVERHEID Hoveniersstraat 22 - 2018 Antwerpen Driemaandelijks

januari / februari / maart 2015

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85e jaargang, nr 1, januari / februari / maart 2015

de belgische diamantnijverheid Periodieke uitgave van het Syndikaat der Belgische Diamantnijverheid Periodical Publication of the Syndicate of the Belgian Diamond Industry

editoriaal

Verantwoordelijke uitgever Responsable editor Edward Denckens Dennenlaan 2 2243 Zandhoven

Redactie en Publiciteit Editorial Office and Publicity SBD Hoveniersstraat 22, 2018 Antwerpen Tel. : 03/233.11.29 - Fax : 03/227.46.30 e-mail: sbd@sbd.be

Redactiecomité Editorial Board Edward Denckens, Jos Heiremans, Linda Vancauwenberghe

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Voor de teksten zijn uitsluitend hun auteurs verantwoordelijk. Nadruk van teksten toegelaten mits uitdrukkelijke bronvermelding.

Graphius, Oostakker

De eerste maanden van het nieuwe jaar liggen nog maar net achter ons, maar voor de markt brachten die alvast niet de kentering met de moeilijke maanden van 2014 waarop velen hadden gehoopt. Maar dat betekent niet dat 2014 geruisloos overging in 2015.

Eind januari presenteerde AWDC de jaarcijfers voor de Antwerpse diamantsector. De totale waarde van diamant die Antwerpen binnen en buiten ging was nog nooit zo hoog, maar liefst 58,8 miljard dollar. Die cijfers bevestigen weliswaar dat Antwerpen voor de wereldwijde diamanthandel nog steeds nummer één is, maar van een hoerastemming was geen sprake. De cijfers zeggen immers niets over de situatie op de Antwerpse markt; hoge ruwprijzen, de teleurstellende vraag en een onevenwichtig aanbod van laag geprijsde geslepen goederen hebben de winstmarges voor onze diamantairs nog dichter bij het nulpunt geduwd. Voor het middensegment van de pijplijn wordt de situatie hoe langer hoe meer onhoudbaar. De schijnbare onwrikbare houding van de grote ruwproducenten om de industrie tegemoet te komen is een doorn in het oog van vele diamantairs.

IDMA Voorzitter Maxim Shkadov stak het vuur aan de lont met een open brief, die u in dit nummer integraal kan lezen en die er alvast geen doekjes om wond. Volgens Shkadov houden de grote

mijnbouwbedrijven de industrie in een wurggreep, door ruwprijzen te hanteren die enkel de eigen aandeelhouders tevreden stellen en die geen rekening houden met de reële situatie in de markt.

Vooral de recente uitspraken van CEO boegbeeld Phillippe Mellier in een interview met JCK Magazine zijn bij Shkadov, en met hem vele anderen, in het verkeerde keelgat geschoten. Mellier stelt dat het feit dat klanten bereid zijn om ruw te blijven aankopen de (hoge) ruwprijzen legitimeert. Bovendien, aldus Mellier, is het niet de taak noch prioriteit van de ruwproducenten om zich bezig te houden met hoe de spelers die zich verder in de pijplijn bevinden hun winsten kunnen realiseren, daarbij insinuerend dat dit een economische wetmatigheid is die universeel geldt, of je nu handelt in diamant of auto’s. En daar, aldus Shkadov, zit precies het probleem. Niet alleen moeten we ons de vraag stellen hoe zwaar het belang weegt van het exclusieve en dus kostbare zichthouderschap, de langetermijncontracten of welke naam het kind ook kreeg. Want de situatie vandaag is dat een heel pak van die geprefereerde klanten ruw aankopen in het volle bewustzijn dat ze er geld op zullen verliezen.

Niet verwonderlijk dus dat we aan het begin van dit jaar voor het eerst geluiden hoorden dat sommigen bereid zijn om de handdoek in de ring te gooien en hun exclusieve contracten liever kwijt dan rijk zijn. Maar voorlopig is dat niet meer dan kreten en gefluister.

Dat Mellier de diamantindustrie vergeleek met de auto-industrie was voor velen een bewijs dat de topman van de Beers enkel bekommerd is om winst en niet om het welzijn van de gehele industrie, in alle delen van de pijplijn op lange termijn. In de woorden van Shkadov; de kloof tussen de producenten en de industrie lijkt groter dan ooit. In een interview met Rough & Polished dat u verderop in dit nummer kan nalezen, drukt SBD Ondervoorzitter Stephane Fischler zijn hoop uit dat de dialoog tussen producenten en industrie, die decennialang een essentieel onderdeel vormde van het zakelijk model van onze sector, opnieuw opgestart kan worden. Per slot van rekening, aldus nog Fischler, blijft ruwe diamant zonder de expertise van de handelaars en fabrikanten, zoals Kissinger het al zei, niet meer dan een brok pure koolstof. Elk segment van de diamant pijplijn heeft zijn bestaansreden en zijn rol te spelen, en een evenwicht 2

tussen die elementen is in ieders belang. Ook voor Shkadov geldt de economische logica die Mellier naar voren schuift misschien wel voor de auto-industrie, maar niet voor de diamantsector. Consolidering van de sector en verticale integratie zijn immers evoluties die enkel slaan op grote spelers, niet op diegenen die de spreekwoordelijke ruggengraat vormen van onze industrie, de handelaars en fabrikanten. Diamant is in alle opzichten uniek en de diamantindustrie is nu éénmaal in niets te vergelijken, niet als sector of business model, niet als product.

Wie die mening alvast niet deelt zijn de banken.

In recente commentaren liet Hoofd van de Global Diamond and Jewelry Division van ABN AMRO, Erik Jens, optekenen dat het tijd wordt dat de diamantsector afstapt van een zichzelf aangemeten ‘uitzonderingsstatus’ en zich conformeert aan de normen en voorwaarden die gelden voor andere sectoren. In die optiek kondigde de topman aan dat de bank een nieuw en strikter beleid voert dat nog meer wil focussen op transparantie en solvabiliteit. Dat betekent concreet dat de bank als standaardprocedure zeer gedetailleerde inzage wil in de transacties van haar klanten. Ook laattijdige betalers, het zogenaamde “schlepping”, een gebruik dat in de sector niet ongewoon is, zullen door de bank zo meer opgevolgd kunnen worden en in lijn worden gebracht met wat geldt ‘voor de rest van de wereld’. In zijn nieuwjaarstoespraak had Jens eerder ook al een fikse waarschuwing gestuurd naar de diamantairs; transparantie en rendabiliteit – samengevat als “bankability”, zijn de twee elementen die zullen bepalen wie blijft en wie gaat in de industrie.

Diegenen die de omslag kunnen maken van ‘business as usual’ naar meer transparante, innovatieve, efficiënte – kortom moderne – ondernemingen zijn welkom bij de bank. Tot op zekere hoogte heeft Jens natuurlijk gelijk. Diversifiëring, nichemarkten, verhoogde efficiëntie door nieuwe technieken, een focus op innovatie,... het is geen geheim dat dit de ingrediënten zijn die in grote mate de toekomst van onze diamantairs zullen bepalen.

Antwerpen heeft op dat vlak met haar ongeëvenaarde expertise in alle facetten van onze industrie nog steeds een sterke troef in handen. Maar het is duidelijk vijf voor twaalf, of anders gezegd, hoog

tijd dat Antwerpen het heft in handen neemt en die troeven ten gelde maakt. Dat betekent meer inzetten op kennis en kennisoverdracht, op innovatie, op onze knowhow en expertise, op het kwaliteitslabel “Cut in Antwerp” dat Antwerpen nog steeds inherent met zich meedraagt en dat dringend aan een revival toe is.

Bewijze daarvan zijn de talrijke Antwerpse bedrijven die, ondanks de moeilijke tijden, er boven uit springen, zoals onze hoogtechnologische diamantslijperijen die dag in dag uit uitzonderlijke prestaties leveren.

Verderop in dit nummer kan u daaromtrent overigens een mooi artikel lezen over S. Muller & Sons.

Ook transparantie blijft een ‘atout’ van onze Antwerpse diamantindustrie. Nergens anders werd in de afgelopen jaren zoveel geïnvesteerd in het verhogen van de transparantie en de implementatie van controlemechanismen dan hier bij ons, vaak in schril contrast met onze rechtstreekse concurrenten.

Dat deze visie en aanpak in de wereld van vandaag – en nog meer die van morgen – de enige logische keuze is zal niemand betwisten. Langzaam maar zeker wordt ook duidelijk dat deze focus ook een competitief voordeel kan betekenen en dat nieuwe handelspartners voor Antwerpen kiezen omwille van die troef. Dat de financiële instellingen, die per slot van rekening de levensader vormen van onze industrie, omzichtiger te werk gaan, vloeit daar al even logischerwijs uit voort. Maar dat neemt niet weg dat velen zich niet van de indruk kunnen ontdoen dat de lasten en gevolgen van steeds toenemender regelgeving de balans te ver doen doorslaan. De zakenman van vandaag, en in het bijzonder de diamantair, wordt in ons land ondergesneeuwd met steeds meer regeltjes.

Op een moment wanneer de marktomstandigheden de diamantairs doen snakken naar financiële ademruimte, blijkt toegang tot financiering een erg heikel punt. De voorzichtige, volgens sommige berichten ronduit weigerachtige, houding van financiële instellingen om de broodnodige kredieten of rekeningen te verschaffen aan diamantairs zorgt voor een pak frustratie, meer zelfs, een impasse.

Wanneer volstrekt bona fide handelaars of fabrikanten, sommigen al generaties in het vak, bij geen enkele bank terechtkunnen om een rekening te openen, toch een absolute basisvereiste om zaken te kunnen doen, is er iets grondig fout. In de afgelopen weken regende het dan ook niet alleen noodkreten, maar gelukkig ook initiatieven van beurzen en overkoepelende organisaties om de sector bij te staan en concreet te helpen, onder meer via talrijke infosessies, dialoog en de net opgerichte Helpdesk van het AWDC. Een zeer treffend moment tijdens één van deze bijeenkomsten was ongetwijfeld die ene reactie van een diamantair uit het publiek, die zich openlijk afvroeg of de beleidsmakers beseften dat al die regels hen nauwelijks de tijd lieten om datgene te doen waar ze goed in zijn; het handelen in en bewerken van het mooiste product op aarde; diamant.

Of zoals iemand ooit al zei, wanneer de regels van het spel belangrijker worden dan het spel zelf, kan je jezelf de vraag stellen of overregulering op lange termijn misschien niet even nefast is als een gebrek aan regulering.

Edward Denckens Voorzitter

Editorial The first months of the new year are barely behind us, but for the market they did not entail the turning point many had hoped for.

At the end of January, the AWDC presented the annual figures for the Antwerp diamond industry. Reaching a record total of US$58.8 billion, the total value of goods entering and exiting the city was higher than ever before. And although these figures confirm Antwerp remains the number one hub for the global diamond trade, the mood in the street was everything but cheerful. The total value figures do not reflect the situation on the market; high rough prices, disappointing demand and unbalanced oversupply of low priced polished goods have squeezed the profit margins for our diamantaires even further and closer to absolute zero.

For the middle market of the diamond pipeline, the situation has

gone from bad to worse and is hardly sustainable. The apparent unwillingness of the main rough producers to respond to industry concerns is a thorn in the flesh of many diamantaires.

IDMA President Maxim Shkadov sparked the discussion with an unmistakable message, which you can read in full further in this magazine. According to Shkadov, the big mining companies are holding the industry hostage, by demanding prices for their rough that only aim to please shareholders in disregard of the real situation on the market. Shkadov, and many others with him, was especially offended by recent comments made by De Beers CEO Philippe Mellier in an interview with JCK Magazine. According to Mellier, the fact their customers are still buying their rough justifies

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the (high) prices. Moreover, Mellier added that how downstream players generate their profits is not a concern nor a priority for the rough producers, insinuating that is an economic principle that applies to any economic activity, be it the diamond industry or the car industry. And according to Shkadov, that is precisely where the problem lies. Not only should we question what the impact is of the exclusive and therefore precious character of the sightholdership, long-term contract or whatever it is called. Because today, it is a fact that a large amount of those preferred customers are buying rough, fully conscious of the fact they will be losing money on it. It shouldn’t come as a surprise then that earlier this year, for the first time there is talk about people who are prepared to throw in the towel and give up their exclusive status. It appears that, for now, they are speaking loudly but carrying a small stick.

To many, the fact Mellier compared the diamond industry with the car industry proves that the De Beers top executive is solely concerned about profits and not the wellbeing of an entire industry, throughout the pipeline and in a long-term perspective. In the words of Shkadov, the rift between the producers and the industry seems to be greater than ever before. In a recent interview with Rough & Polished, which you can read in full in this edition, SBD Vice President Stephane Fischler expressed his hope that the dialogue between the producers and the industry, which has been an essential component of the industry’s business model for decades, could be reinitiated. Moreover, Fischler added, without the expertise of traders and manufacturers, as Kissinger once put it, diamonds are nothing more but a chunk of coal. Each element of the diamond pipeline has its raison d’être and its role to play. A healthy balance between these elements benefits the entire pipeline. For Shkadov too, the economical logic that Mellier refers to might be relevant for the car industry, but not for the diamond industry. Shkadov argues that consolidation and vertical integration are evolutions that only apply to the big players, and not to the proverbial backbone of the industry; the traders and manufacturers. Diamonds are unique in every aspect, and the diamond industry, simply cannot be compared to others, not as a business model and not as a product.

In any case, it is a vision that is not shared by the banks. In recent comments, Head of the ABN AMRO Global Diamond and Jewelry Division, Erik Jens, stated that it is high time the diamond industry gives up its self-declared special status and starts conforming to the rules and regulations that apply for other industries. In that regard, he announced the bank will focus even more on transparency and bankability. To be more precise, the bank aims to have detailed insight into its customer’s transactions as a standard procedure. This will also allow the bank to follow up more closely on slow paying, a well-known phenomenon, in our industry called “shlepping”, a custom Jens says isn’t tolerated in any other business, and thus the diamond industry shouldn’t be an exception to that rule.

In his new years’ speech Jens had already sent a severe warning to the industry saying transparency and profitability, summarized as ‘bankability’, will determine who stays and who goes in the industry.

Those that are willing and able to shift from ‘business as usual’ to more transparent, innovative, efficient – in one word ‘modern’ – enterprises are welcome at ABN AMRO. To a certain degree, Jens is right. Diversification, niche markets, increased efficiency through new technologies, a focus on innovation,... It is no secret that these are the ingredients that will to a great extend determine the future of our diamantaires.

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In that context, Antwerp, through its unequalled expertise in every facet of our business, possesses all the qualities to make a strong case. But it is clearly five to midnight, or high time Antwerp takes action and capitalizes on its strengths. That is, invest in knowledge and transfer of knowledge, support innovation, promote our knowhow and expertise and boost the quality label “Cut in Antwerp” that is still renowned throughout the world but needs reviving desperately. That the Antwerp diamond industry can stand out is proven by more than one of our diamond companies, such as the high tech polishing units that achieve extraordinary results on a daily basis. In that regard, we invite you to read the special article on S. Muller & Sons that was posted on Rough & Polished recently.

Transparency is and remains a key element in the business approach of the Antwerp diamond industry. Over the past years, the city has invested more effort in increasing transparency and implementing control mechanisms than to any other place in the world, often contrasting sharply with our direct competitors. Nobody will challenge that this approach is the only logical one in today’s – and moreover tomorrow’s – world. It is a focus that is slowly but surely starting to pay off, illustrated by new players that choose to come to Antwerp because of the high levels of transparency that apply here. In this regard it makes sense that the financial institutions, the lifeline of the industry, have adopted a more cautious stance.

However, many of us get the strong impression that the everincreasing level of regulation is starting to look like overreach.

Today’s businesses, especially in our industry, are heavily burdened by excessive rules and regulations.

While under the current market conditions, our diamantaires are in desperate need of financial ‘room to breathe’, access to industry financing has become highly problematic. The cautious, and according to some downright reluctant stance of the financial institutions to provide industry members with financing or simply bank accounts is causing much frustration and even leads to a deadlock. When perfectly earnest diamond traders or manufacturers, some of whom have been in the business for generations on end, are unable to open a bank account, which is a basic necessity to do business, something is terribly wrong.

Over the past few weeks, alongside a great number of complaints over this matter, the Bourses and professional organizations set up various initiatives to tackle the issue, through information sessions, consultation and the recently established dedicated helpdesk at the AWDC. A striking moment during one of these sessions undoubtedly was the reaction of an industry member in the audience who wondered if policymakers realized that by creating all these rules and regulations for the diamantaires, the latter are left with little time to do what they do best; trading and manufacturing the most beautiful product known to man; diamonds.

Or as someone once put it; when the rules of the game become the game, we should consider that, in the long run, over regulation might simply be just as bad as under regulation.

Edward Denckens President

“We believe in the superior craftsmanship of our Belgian Master Cutters” Jean Claude Muller, S. Muller & Sons, member of SBD, in an interview with Alexander Shaburkin, Rough&Polished, from Antwerp S. Muller & Sons founded in 1955 is now a world-renowned diamond manufacturer managed by the third generation of diamantaires led by Jean Claude Muller, the company’s CEO. S. Muller & Sons has an inhouse diamond factory, one of the few that still remain in Antwerp, which is producing the now famous Hearts & Arrows Diamonds. The company’s involvement in Hearts & Arrows initiated with its relationship with Mr. Takanori Tamura, the inventor of the Eight-Star Diamond. S. Muller & Sons started to manufacture this perfect diamond for him and eventually went on to manufacture its derivative, the Hearts & Arrows. S. Muller & Sons is still the only company endorsed by him to manufacture the Eight-Star Diamond and continues to be his only manufacturer.

Could you say a few words about your company? What is the market segment you target your polished production on?

S. Muller & Sons is active in Antwerp’s diamond business for over 60 years and has established itself as one of the city’s premier diamond factories.

Even today, when most diamond factories are not working in Antwerp anymore, we continue to polish all our diamonds locally since we believe in the superior craftsmanship of our Belgian Master Cutters.

We are fully transparent with our clients and we can even issue Certificates of Origin attesting where the rough came from and who polished each and every stone cut by us.

We focus on supplying clients looking for ideal cut Hearts & Arrows and exceptional fancy shapes.

In your view, were there any new features at the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair this year?

The fair organized tours into IGI’s laboratories, which are located in the same building where we are. We thought this was a great initiative and we hope to expand this idea next year and create a tour inside our diamond factory for all the fair’s visitors.

You are known to manufacture Eight-Star Diamonds, as well as Hearts & Arrows. What are the processing subtleties associated with this work?

It takes much more time and craftsmanship to polish a perfectly symmetrical diamond like the Hearts & Arrows and EightStar. In the USA, many companies market this as “superior

cut”, “super ideal cut” or other terms, but our clients simply call this the “Muller make”.

Our Hearts & Arrows always have the same proportions – same table size, same diameter and same pavilion angles.

When we cut a Hearts & Arrows diamond, we don’t cut corners or play with the accepted measurements. We will finish the stone for perfection – no extra facets, no naturals. That’s the Muller Make.

Where do you source your rough to make such diamonds?

We source them from the local rough market. Antwerp is the biggest rough diamond market in the world today, and we take advantage of being here and always look for the very best rough available.

Professional diamond cutters sometimes say that a perfect girdle is the very foundation of a well cut stone. What is the equipment you use to achieve this task and many others to produce a true piece of art as it is stated on your website?

This is a manual process that we have perfected over the years.

Our polishers are the most experienced in the industry – some have been polishing with us for over 40 years – and we have established our standards that we use in every ideal cut diamond coming out of our factory. For instance, while some cutters try to minimize the amount of facets in the girdle, we always cut the girdles with a specific amount of facets even if that takes more time.

The key is not the equipment but the hands that take care of the diamond. Our Master Cutters are the artists.

Diamond manufacturers often complain about low margins in their segment of the diamond pipeline. What is your take on this?

This is a chronic problem today in the manufacturing industry and we suffer from it, too. Unfortunately, it can be more profitable today to buy and sell polished than manufacturing a diamond, since we have to pay top dollar for the high quality rough, while polished buyers have more favorable conditions. It defies logic, but that’s the reality in the market for the past year.

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We are patient and we hope the market conditions will change in the favor of diamond manufacturers. After all, the real artist is the Master Cutter but if there’s no profit margin, their job is at stake, too.

Were Muller’s sales rising or falling over the past few years?

I would say stable. We strive to increase sales year-on-year but that has been difficult in the past year, however we are happy to have been able to maintain our client base and our regular sales.

In your opinion, what was the most famous Muller diamond ever cut by your company?

A few years ago we invested in a diamond mine in South Africa and that mine brought us a rough diamond of over 100cts, that we polished into a 20ct Round and another 21ct Emerald cut diamond. This was an outstanding rough diamond.

This year we are proud to have added to our stock a new Heart Shape close to 30cts that is also unique: D flawless type IIa, the largest heart shape in the market today.

Having a 60-year-long history in diamond cutting under your belt, do you remember some striking story in the work of your company to share with our readers?

One story that I would like to share is from the time I was

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learning how to polish diamonds in our factory. As the polisher next to me started to cut a new diamond, this particular stone started to make a loud noise as it was being polished – much more noise than usual. So I asked the polisher “is something wrong? Why is the stone making such sound?” ``He quickly answered “don’t worry, the diamond is singing”. This simple story, in my opinion, sums up how we look at our work as diamond polishers – craftsmanship, transparency and unwavering quality.

What is your outlook for 2015 regarding the polished market?

We have been in this industry for over 60 years and we have always managed to overcome all challenges are rise to the occasion. We expect much more demand in 2015, especially if you consider that 2014 had weaker demand than usual for diamonds. So we are sure now it will only improve.

Statistieken diamant 2014 Antwerpen bevestigt haar leiderschapsrol in de handel in diamant. In 2014 werd 227,2 miljoen karaat diamant verhandeld, ter waarde van 58,8 miljard US dollar. Hiermee werd het vorige record van 56,6 miljard US dollar, dat in 2012 gevestigd werd, verbroken. Anderzijds verbergen deze goede cijfers de moeilijke situatie van de individuele diamanthandelaars. De productie van ruwe diamant daalt en de prijzen zijn aan het stijgen. Ruwe diamanten zijn heel duur op dit moment. Daardoor komen de winstmarges onder druk te staan. Omwille van de lage winstmarges, was het, net zoals in andere handelscentra, een moeilijk jaar.

Zowel de export als de import van ruwe diamant steeg in 2014 ten opzichte van 2013. Er werd 114,5 miljoen karaat ruwe diamant geëxporteerd ter waarde van 15,7 miljard USD. Het overgrote deel gaat naar India, de Verenigde Arabische Emiraten en Hong Kong.

Aan de importzijde stellen we een nog grotere stijging vast.

In vergelijking met vorig jaar werd in volume 10% meer geïmporteerd, wat zich in waarde vertaalt naar een stijging

van 13%. In 2014 werd maar liefst 99,9 miljoen karaat ruwe diamant geïmporteerd ter waarde van 14,9 miljard USD. Rusland is nog altijd de grootste leverancier van ruw, gevolgd door de Verenigde Arabische Emiraten en Botswana.

De markt voor geslepen diamant stond het afgelopen jaar wat onder druk. Er werden minder diamanten verhandeld, maar wel van grotere waarde. Antwerpen gekend om zijn expertise en vakmanschap, focust zich vooral op de grotere en duurdere stenen.

In totaal werd in 2014 6,4 miljoen karaat geslepen diamant geëxporteerd ter waarde van 14,4 miljard USD en werd 6,9 miljoen karaat geslepen diamant geïmporteerd ter waarde van 13,8 miljard USD. De VS blijven de grootste afnemers van geslepen diamant in waarde (3,9 mrd $; 0,7 miljoen karaat), gevolgd door Hong Kong (3,5 mrd $) die in gewicht veruit de koploper is (1,5 miljoen karaat).

India is de grootste invoerder van geslepen in gewicht(2,2 mln karaat met een waarde van 3 mrd $ , een stijging met resp. 10% en 16,6%), in waarde is dit de VS (3,2 mrd $), gevolgd door Hong Kong (3 mrd $).

OVERZICHT DIAMANTHANDEL 2014-2013

2013 2012 % verschil INVOER 1000 ct 1000 euro 1000 ct 1000 euro ct EURO

ruwe diamant, niet gesorteerd 961 48.195,00 403 30.577,00 138,46% 57,62% ruwe diamant, industrie 5.369 29.369,00 3.952 19.622,00 35,86% 49,67% ruwe diamant 93.607 11.029.486,00 86.321 9.900.621,30 8,44% 11,40% totaal ruwe diamant 99.937 11.107.050,00 90.676 9.950.820,30 10,21% 11,62%

geslepen diamant 6.888 10.285.952,00 7.389 10.003.245,19 -6,78% 2,83% bewerkte industriediamant 10 71,00 1 42,00 900,00% 69,05%

natuurlijk diamantpoeder 2.878 1.812,00 2.705 2.995,00 6,40% -39,50% synthetisch diamantpoeder 91.336 6.262,00 77.189 6.028,00 18,33% 3,88% totaal diamantpoeder 94.214 8.074,00 79.894 9.023,00 17,92% -10,52%

TOTAAL INVOER 201.049 21.401.147,00 177.960 19.963.130,49 12,97% 7,20%

2014 2013 % verschil UITVOER 1000 ct 1000 euro 1000 ct 1000 euro ct EURO

ruwe diamant, niet gesorteerd 0 0,00 0 0,00 ruwe diamant, industrie 1.120 17.746,00 1.617 20.490,70 -30,74% -13,39% ruwe diamant 113.314 11.648.286,55 106.554 11.155.103,34 6,34% 4,42% totaal ruwe diamant 114.434 11.666.032,55 108.171 11.175.594,04 5,79% 4,39%

geslepen diamant 6.402 10.756.085,20 6.846 10.649.114,70 -6,49% 1,00% bewerkte industriediamant 21 1.778,00 30 878,00 -30,00% 102,51%

natuurlijk diamantpoeder 3.360 1.462,50 1.862 1.397,50 80,45% 4,65% synthetisch diamantpoeder 86.020 10.462,00 79.178 10.719,00 8,64% -2,40% totaal diamantpoeder 89.380 11.924,50 81.040 12.116,50 10,29% -1,58%

TOTAAL UITVOER 210.237 22.435.820,25 196.087 21.837.703,24 7,22% 2,74%

TOTALE OMZET 411.286 43.836.967,25 374.047 41.800.833,73 9,96% 4,87% bron: FOD Economie

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BELGISCHE HANDEL IN RUWE DIAMANT Overzicht sinds 1991

BELGISCHE HANDEL IN GESLEPEN DIAMANT Overzicht sinds 1991

invoer

uitvoer

1000 ct miljoen euro 1000 ct miljoen euro

1991 70.479 3.769 75.709 3.326 1992 65.129 3.617 69.875 3.293 1993 85.212 4.355 85.028 3.897 1994 64.304 4.505 80.355 4.090 1995 95.898 4.639 100.905 4.255 1996 129.889 5.443 116.810 4.797 1997 143.378 5.949 145.131 5.510 1998 133.714 4.895 165.660 4.631 1999 149.687 6.603 173.262 6.431 2000 125.010 8.012 136.498 7.531 2001 127.717 6.842 130.201 6.378 2002 149.083 7.652 166.648 7.493 2003 164.110 7.146 143.688 6.725 2004 145.407 7.579 165.397 7.563 2005 159.903 8.905 156.713 8.724 2006 135.876 7.413 135.852 7.910 2007 133.554 7.488 142.896 8.341 2008 110.978 7.027 115.604 7.204 2009 85.567 4.573 96.537 5.314 2010 109.771 7.136 126.832 8.302 2011 98.886 9.647 107.093 10.356 2012 88.299 9.512 105.371 10.482 2013 90.676 9.951 108.171 11.176 2014 99.337 11.107 114.434 11.666 bron: FOD Economie

invoer

uitvoer

1000 ct miljoen euro 1000 ct miljoen euro

1991 4.703 2.522 4.643 3.116 1992 4.251 2.267 4.526 2.870 1993 5.050 2.758 5.081 3.337 1994 5.289 2.917 5.479 3.589 1995 5.885 2.843 6.198 3.578 1996 6.757 3.330 6.970 3.986 1997 6.461 3.675 7.006 4.520 1998 7.542 3.836 7.653 4.541 1999 7.344 3.974 7.533 4.885 2000 8.262 5.544 8.590 6.616 2001 8.508 5.716 8.419 6.456 2002 9.179 6.086 9.244 6.949 2003 9.556 5.738 9.683 6.419 2004 10.004 6.152 9.638 6.591 2005 9.523 6.650 9.080 7.088 2006 9.281 7.240 8.806 7.644 2007 9.741 7.339 9.369 7.894 2008 9.622 8.139 8.717 8.375 2009 7.345 5.744 7.278 6.251 2010 8.096 7.798 7.794 8.400 2011 8.986 10.086 8.481 10.510 2012 7.440 10.034 6.947 10.264 2013 7.389 10.003 6.846 10.649 2014 6.888 10.286 6.402 10.756 bron: FOD Economie

Sociaal juridisch nieuws Wetgeving waardetransporten Eerstdaags zal het nieuwe KB verschijnen (dit is momenteel bij de Raad Van State voor adviesverlening) welke de noodzakelijke wijziging aanbrengt met betrekking tot de persoonlijke transporten.

De bepaling van het bedrag van ‘150.000 euro van de totaal vervoerde waarde’ wordt opgeheven.

De vrije keuze blijft per voertuig om al dan niet gebruik te maken van beveiligd transport.

PC 218 (ANPCB) wordt PC 200 (APCB) vanaf 1 april 2015: Deze omvorming houdt o.m. in dat het actief en het passief van het Sociaal Fonds van het PC 218 overgenomen worden door het PC 200, en dat alle bestaande collectieve arbeidsovereenkomsten van het PC 218 integraal worden overgenomen op het niveau van het PC 200.

Dit betekent: • dat de rechten en de plichten van de werkgevers en werknemers welke vandaag tot het PC 218 behoren niet worden gewijzigd.

• de RSZ de werkgevers van het PC 218 automatisch overzet naar PC 200 voor de inning van de RSZ-bijdrage aan het Sociaal Fonds PC 200 vanaf 1 april 2015.

• dat alle verwijzingen naar het PC 218 in cao’s of andere collectieve akkoorden gesloten op het niveau van de ondernemingen geacht worden te verwijzen naar de overeenkomsten of akkoorden die overgedragen worden naar het PC 200: de ondernemingen dienen dus geen expliciete aanpassingen hieraan te doen.

IGC Group, member of SBD, RJC member and a leading manufacturer of the finest made diamonds and strategic supplier to major jewellery brand houses & Swiss watch brands, moves to its newly constructed office building.

The new address starting April 1st, 2015: IGC Group, Schupstraat 15, 2018 Antwerp - Belgium

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Antwerp’s Rough Diamond Trade Fair The Rough Diamond Days that took place in February in the Antwerpsche Diamantkring were once again a great success.

With almost 2,000 diamond companies based in Antwerp trading both rough and polished diamonds, this type of event offers traders in rough goods, manufacturers and dealers a perfect way to meet, network, renew ties, find new contacts and to do business in a highly efficient way.

In the ADK’s trading hall, which was open to all WFDB members worldwide, some 65 exhibitors traded large amounts of rough diamonds to national and international diamond dealers.

The exhibitors were very pleased with how the fair went. It welcomed in excess of 2,500 potential buyers over the two days. In addition to the many Belgian diamond dealers, a large number of foreign delegations from India, the United States and Israel were also on hand.

Organizer and Chairman of the Antwerpsche Diamantkring Freddy Inzlicht: “A wide range of rough diamonds were on offer during this two-day trading event, so everyone could find what he was looking for. But above all the personal contacts boosted the confidence level, which is something that many traders can use in these difficult times.” He noted that the Kring’s initiative is an integral part of Antwerp’s global marketing efforts.“Antwerp is the beating heart of the world’s rough and polished diamond trade. Annually, some 80 percent of the global rough diamond production is traded and sold in Antwerp. However, these are challenging times, and to remain at the top we need to increase our promotional and marketing efforts,” the ADK President concluded.

Ernie Blom President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), commented “Events like the Rough Diamond Days is key to the growth and development of the industry. I am very proud to give my full support to this initiative, now firmly established as a key trading event in its second year. The WFDB strongly supports this kind of venture and encourages all trading platforms that help build trade between bourses while increasing visibility for diamonds in the luxury goods market.”

Hiren Shah

Arslanian Frères

Span Enterprise BVBA

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LPHT, het nieuwe HPHT voor CVD ?

Katrien De Corte, HRD Antwerp

CVD, HPHT, LPHT,…De laatste jaren volgt de ene afkorting de andere op in de diamantsector. Zowel codes die verwijzen naar een productieproces, als codes voor kleurbehandelingen van diamant zijn in gebruik.

Op het einde van de 18de eeuw ontdekten wetenschappers dat diamant opgebouwd is uit koolstof, maar het zou tot de jaren vijftig van de vorige eeuw duren vooraleer men diamant in een labo kon groeien. Wat uiteindelijk leidde tot de geslaagde groei van diamant was een goed begrip van de stabiliteitsvelden van koolstof bij temperaturen tot 3000 °C. Zo is de stabiele vorm van koolstof bij hoge druk en hoge temperatuur enkel diamant, terwijl bij lage(re) druk en temperatuur louter grafiet stabiel is.

Het bestaan van diamant in ons dagelijkse leven is te verklaren door het “gebrek aan” hoge energie, nodig om de sterke verbindingen in diamant te verbreken.

De International Diamond Council, IDC, legde de Engelse (de voertaal van onze diamantsector) naamgeving voor “gemaakte” diamanten vast. Drie termen werden goedgekeurd door deze organisatie: Lab-created, Lab-grown en Synthetic. Voor de leesbaarheid van dit artikel zullen de termen “gemaakt”, “gegroeid” en “synthetisch” gebruikt worden.

Door de mens gegroeide diamant en natuurlijk diamant hebben dezelfde chemische en fysische eigenschappen. Synthetische diamanten behoren dus niet tot de imitaties of simulanten van diamant. Deze laatste zijn stenen die op het eerste zicht lijken op diamant, maar die minder hard zijn, niet louter opgebouwd zijn uit koolstofatomen, een andere brekingsindex hebben enzomeer. Gekende voorbeelden van imitaties van diamant zijn CZ of kubisch zirconium (Cubic Zirconia in het Engels, vandaar de afkorting) en moissaniet.

Vandaag bestaan er twee methoden om diamant te maken: de High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) - en de Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD) - groeimethode.

De HPHT-methode maakt gebruik van grafiet als koolstofbron en groeit diamant in zijn stabiliteitsgebied bij hoge druk en temperatuur. Technisch gezien is het huzarenstuk het bereiken van hoge drukken in dit proces.

In de CVD-methode start men met een koolstofhoudend gas en werkt men in het stabiliteitsveld van grafiet. Beide productieprocessen zijn gecommercialiseerd.

Zowel natuurlijke diamanten als synthetische diamanten kunnen na hun groei behandeld worden om een andere kleur (vb van bruin naar geel) of een verandering in intensiteit van de kleur (vb van lichtgeel naar intens geel) te bekomen. In 1999 verkondigde General Electric dat voor het eerst een kleurbehandeling mogelijk was waarbij kleur “vermindert” werd zodat kleurloze

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LPHT, the new HPHT for CVD? CVD, HPHT, LPHT,…over the past years a lot of new abbreviations have entered the diamond world. These new codes can refer to both a diamond production process as to a diamond colour treatment.

At the end of the 18th century, scientists discovered that diamond is built up by carbon, but it would still take a century before man was able to grow diamonds in a lab. A good understanding of the stability fields of carbon at temperatures as high as 3000°C, led eventually to a successful lab-grown diamond. The stable carbon mineral at high pressure and temperature is diamond, while at lower temperatures it changes into the mineral graphite. That we can enjoy the beauty of a diamond at our low atmospheric pressure and temperature conditions is due to the “lack” of high energy to break the strong chemical bounds between the carbon atoms.

Since the arrival of man-made diamonds, the International Diamond Council (IDC) has defined a clear terminology to refer to this type of diamond: lab-created, lab-grown and synthetic diamond. The same terminology will be used throughout this article. Lab-grown and natural diamonds have the same chemical and physical properties. Therefore, synthetic diamonds do not belong to the group of imitations or simulants of diamond. This group of imitations consists of other minerals who look similar to diamond, but which are less hard, have a different chemistry and different optical properties than diamonds. Well known diamond imitations are cubic zirconium (CZ) and moissanite.

Two methods exist today to grow diamonds: the High-PressureHigh-Temperature (HPHT) growth method and Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD) growth method. The HPHT method uses graphite as carbon source and the diamond grows in its stability field at high temperature and pressure. Technically it is not evident to reach and maintain high pressures during the growth process. The CVD methods carbon source is a carbon-containing gas (vapour) from which the diamond will precipitate out in the stability field of graphite. Both methods are commercialized.

stenen bekomen konden worden. De kleurbehandeling maakt gebruik van hoge druk en hoge temperatuur (High Pressure and High Temperature) en van dezelfde toestellen als die om HPHT synthetisch diamant te groeien. De kleurbehandeling is aldus gekend als de “HPHT-behandeling”.

“LPHT”, het nieuwste codewoord in de diamantsector, staat voor “Low Pressure High Temperature” en duidt ook op een kleurbehandeling van diamant. LPHT vindt plaats in het stabiliteitsgebied van grafiet. Essentieel bij het LPHT-proces is het gebruik van een waterstof-atmosfeer om te verhinderen dat de diamanten omgezet worden naar grafiet en/of amorf koolstof.

Zowel HPHT- als LPHT-kleurveranderingen worden beschouwd als zijnde stabiel en permanent bij het gebruikelijk hanteren van juwelen.

In 2008 maakte men voor het eerst melding van LPHT in wetenschappelijke publicaties*. Bruine CVD-synthetische diamanten werden (bijna-)kleurloos door een behandeling bij temperaturen tot 2.200°C onder lage druk. Tot dusver heeft HRD Antwerp geen weet van commerciële behandeling van natuurlijke diamanten met het LPHT-proces om stenen minder bruin/kleurloos te maken. Volgens onze bronnen gebeurt LPHTbehandeling van bruine CVD-synthetisch diamant wel, en dit vaak meteen nadat het groeiproces voltooid is en terwijl de gegroeide kristallen nog in de CVD-reactor zitten. De detectie van CVD-synthetisch diamant, al dan niet behandeld met de LPHT-methode, is verzekerd in het HRD Antwerp lab, dankzij de lopende onderzoeksprogramma’s en samenwerkingen.

Net als bij het HPHT-proces is de kleur die men bekomt na LPHT-behandeling afhankelijk van de optische defecten, onzuiverheden, die aanwezig zijn in de steen voor het proces.

Zo zal een steen met een aanzienlijke hoeveelheid stikstof in paren (de zogenaamde type IaA diamanten) niet kleurloos kunnen worden maar geler.

Verder dienen we op te merken dat na een behandeling bij hoge temperaturen, hetzij met HPHT, hetzij met LPHT, nabehandelingen mogelijk zijn waardoor stenen opnieuw van kleur kunnen veranderen. Het bestralen van stenen met elektronen voor of na het verhittingsproces is vaak gebruikt bij zulke meerstappen-behandeling.

Alle stenen die geschikt zijn om (bijna-) kleurloos te maken door middel van een HPHT- of LPHT-proces, alsook alle synthetische diamanten worden door de D-Screen en de Alpha Diamond Analyser doorverwezen voor verder onderzoek.

HRD Antwerp stelt met klem dat alle synthetische stenen en alle behandelingen van diamant kenbaar moeten gemaakt worden.

Both natural as lab-grown diamonds can be treated to improve the original colour. Examples are enhancing the colour of a brown diamond to yellow or intensifying the colour from light yellow to intense yellow. In 1999 General Electrics announced the ability to change a coloured diamond into a colourless one. This can be done in a high temperature – high pressure environment, same conditions and in a similar machine as to grow synthetic diamond. The technique is known as “HPHT-colour treatment”.

The most recent abbreviation in the diamond world is “LPHT”.

This code stands for Low-Pressure-High-Temperature and also refers to a colour treatment. The temperature and pressure conditions are in the stability field of graphite. Essential regarding the LPHT-treatment is the use of a hydrogen atmosphere to prevent the conversion of diamond into graphite and/or amorphous carbon. Both HPHT- and LPHT-colour treatments are considered as being stable and permanent during the handling of jewels.

LPHT was mentioned in a scientific publication for the first time in 2008*. According to the publication, brown synthetic CVD diamonds became (nearly) colourless after treatment at 2200°C in low pressure conditions. Until this moment, HRD Antwerp has no knowledge of natural diamonds being subjected to LPHT-treatments. According to our sources, LPHT-treatment is applied to brown synthetic CVD diamonds, often applied immediately after the growth process is completed and when the diamond is still in the reactor. The detection of lab-grown CVD diamonds, undergone colour-treatment or not, is assured at the HRD Antwerp Diamond Lab owing to research cooperation and exchange of scientific results.

As with HPHT-colour treatment, the resulting colour after LPHTcolour treatment depends on the optical defects or impurities present in the stone at the start of the process. For example, a stone with a significant amount of paired nitrogen atoms, the so-called type IaA diamonds, will rather become more yellow instead of colourless. Notice that even after high-temperature treatments (HPHT and LPHT) other treatments can be applied to enhance or decrease the colour of a diamond. As example, in a multiple-stage treatment often irradiation with an electron beam is applied before or after the high-temperature treatment.

The screening instruments, the D-screen and the Alpha Diamond Analyzer, will refer all stones suitable to make them (nearly) colourless by the application of HPHT- or LPHT-treatment as well as all synthetic diamonds to the research lab for further examination.

HRD Antwerp strongly emphasizes that all lab-grown diamonds and colour treated diamonds ought to be disclosed.

Besluit • CVD Chemical Vapour Deposition - Type van synthetisch diamant • HPHT High Pressure High Temperature - Type van synthetisch diamant OF bepaalde kleurbehandeling • LPHT - Low Pressure High Temperature – bepaalde kleurbehandeling

Conclusion • CVD, Chemical Vapour Deposition: type of synthetic diamond • HPHT, High Pressure High Temperature: type of synthetic diamond OR colour treatment • LPHT, Low Pressure High Temperature: type of colour treatment

* Meng, Y., Yan, C., Lai, J., Krasnicki, S., Shu, H., Yu, T., Liang, Q., Mao, H., Hemley, R.J. (2008), Enhanced optical properties of chemical vapor deposited single crystal diamond by low-pressure / high-temperature annealing, PNAS, Vol.105, no.46, p.17620 – 17625.

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Nieuwjaarsreceptie RVD en Fondsen Geachte genodigden, Dames en Heren, Traditiegetrouw, maar daarom niet minder welgemeend, onze beste wensen voor een gelukkig en succesvol 2015.

Dat het u allen voor de wind mag gaan op professioneel en privé vlak.

2014 was het jaar waarin heel wat veranderingen zijn gebeurt in de Verlofkas. In de zomer van 2014 hebben we de directeurswissel gehad; Walter Huysmans die met pensioen is gegaan werd opgevolgd door Gert Eysackers. Afscheid nemen van een directeur die 27 jaar de dienst uitmaakte was niet evident. Bij deze willen we Walter nogmaals van harte danken voor zijn jarenlange inzet voor onze instellingen. We kunnen vandaag in alle vertrouwen zeggen dat Gert zijn taak op een even correcte en discrete wijze invult. Als RvB zijn we zeer tevreden dat de wissel op de toekomst verzekerd is en dat we in de beste verstandhouding verder samen werken.

Tevens moeten we ons personeelsbestand aanvullen om de activiteiten van de Verlofkas en de Fondsen efficiënt verder te laten verlopen. Joris Gijsen heeft onze instelling vervoegd en zoals tot op vandaag blijkt, lijkt dat een goede beslissing te zijn. Momenteel zijn we op zoek naar de juiste man of vrouw voor de invulling van de vacature van sociaal juridisch medewerker. Tevens zullen we op zoek gaan naar een capabel medewerker als back-up voor de boekhouding. We hopen spoedig de juiste personen te vinden om deze opdrachten te vervullen.

2014 was tevens een woelig jaar, waaraan de regeringswissel en de maatregelen van deze nieuwe regering niet vreemd zijn. Zonder me te willen begeven op politiek ijs kunnen we toch vaststellen dat er in 2015 in het sociaal landschap heel wat op stapel staat. Nieuwe regeringsvoorstellen en nieuwe wetgevingen zullen moeten geïmplementeerd worden, wat niet vanzelfsprekend van een leien dakje zal lopen.

Het sociaal overleg staat onder druk, toch hopen we dat we in onze sector als sociale partners het hoofd koel kunnen houden om met gezond verstand en met respect voor ieders standpunten de gesprekken en onderhandelingen te voeren. De gezonde overlegstructuur die we in onze sector kennen willen we graag behouden om zo efficiënt mogelijk beslissingen te kunnen nemen in het belang van werkgevers en werknemers in de diamantnijverheid.

Want beslissingen die in het sociaal overleg genomen zijn, hebben sowieso een invloed op de Fondsen en de Verlofkas. Zij zullen op hun beurt een aantal zaken dienen uit te voeren die in de cao’s zijn vastgelegd. Daarom is een serene sfeer meer dan wenselijk.

Om alle opdrachten en activiteiten van de Verlofkas, Het Fonds en het ICD nog beter toegankelijk te maken voor de werknemers, werkgevers en een ruimer publiek zijn onlangs de websites van de eerste 2 instellingen online gegaan. De website van het ICD zal kortelings volgen. We zullen via dit instrument zo actueel mogelijk de nodige informatie beschikbaar stellen.

Stanny Van Blerk, bestuurslid SBD; Paul Sternberg, bestuurslid Vrije Diamanthandel; Annemie Peeters, secretaresse SBD en Linda Edward Denckens, voorzitter SBD Vancauwenberghe, directeur SBD

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Edward Denckens, voorzitter SBD; Wolf Ollech en Mark Vets bestuursleden SBD

Linda Vancauwenberghe, directeur SBD; Koen Smets en Willy Henneuse, bestuursleden SBD; Ludo Van Campenhout, schepen voor diamant

Mark Vets en Pol Van der Steen, bestuursleden SBD; Yves Kerremans, directeur WTOCD; Lucien Cornelissens, bestuurslid SBD

Philip Braeckmans, Regeringscommissaris ICD; Walter Huysmans; Em. Prof. Harry Reynaers

Yves Bollekens, sectorconsulent; Frieda Meire, directeur Stedelijk Lyceum Meir; Ronny Du Jardin, divisiedirecteur AG SO (Autonoom Gemeentebedrijf Stedelijk Onderwijs)

John Colpaert, ABVV Algemene Centrale; Katrien De Corte, CO Education & Graduates Club, HRD Antwerp

Op 30 november ll werden aan 79 personen het ereteken van Laureaat van de Arbeid uitgereikt. Op de plechtige viering ingericht door het Koninklijk Instituut van de Eliten van de Arbeid werden deze mensen in het

zonnetje gezet voor hun prestaties op hun werk hetzij als werknemer of zelfstandige of werkgever of handelaar.

Deze erkenning van hun beroepsactiviteiten moeten we blijven naar waarde inschatten. Tevens wensen we

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Patrick Vanoirbeek, Rijksdienst voor Jaarlijkse Vakantie; Gert Eysackers, directeur RVD; Luc Vanneste, Rijksdienst voor Jaarlijkse Vakantie

Philip Braeckmans, Regeringscomissaris ICD, Roger Van den Heule; Daniel Elsen, secretaris en Marc De Smet, voorzitter Paritair ComitĂŠ voor de Diamantnijverheid en- handel

Karin Preud’homme, HRD Antwerp NV met Wim Van Den Weyngaert, Johan Verschueren en Marc Machiels, 3 leraars van Stedelijk Lyceum Meir

Yves Toutenel, Tony Siemons, Gerda Tielemans en Willy Van Tolhuyzen, ACV-Transcom

Geert Lens; Danny Meylemans; Chris Van Eyndt; Dave Oste; Peter De Deyne, leden SBD; Gogolewski Przemek WTOCD; Jan Franckx, lid SBD en Annemie Peeters, secretaresse SBD 14

Tim Van De Walle, KBC en Carl Bouwen, RVD

Ann Platteaux, AXA; Linda Vancauwenberghe, directeur SBD en Sandra Wozniak, AXA

van harte de 2 promotoren die het gouden ereteken ontvingen, Mevr. Linda Vancauwenberghe en Dhr. Lucien Cornelissens te feliciteren voor hun jarenlange inzet en promotie van de nijverheid. De heren Ward Denckens en Walter Huysmans werden tot emeritus benoemd, en dhr. Stephane Fischler en ikzelf ontvingen het halssnoer van eredeken van de diamantnijverheid. Allen zullen we verder ijveren voor de belangen en het verder bestaan van deze briljante bedrijfstak.

In het Fonds blijven we ons actief inzetten voor o.m. opleidingen en vorming in het bedrijf. Zo hopen we in 2015 opnieuw een basiscursus diamantslijpen te kunnen inrichten en doen we een warme oproep aan de fabrikanten om mee te werken aan dit project. We zijn er ons van bewust dat dit geen gemakkelijke opdracht zal zijn omdat we de voorbije week spijtig genoeg nogmaals hebben moeten vaststellen dat sommige bedrijven het moeilijk hebben en zelfs moeten overgaan tot ontslagen.

Als Fonds willen we ons blijvend engageren om de tewerkstelling in de nijverheid mee aan te zwengelen en zullen we ons blijven inzetten om deze te activeren. Tevens werd in het najaar van 2014 het opleidingsconvenant met de school Stedelijk Lyceum Meir, onderhandeld en ondertekend door AWDC, de stad Antwerpen, het autonoom gemeentebedrijf Stedelijk Onderwijs en het Fonds. Ook hierin willen we onze rol spelen en meewerken aan de vorming van jonge mensen die kiezen voor een beroep in de diamantnijverheid. We hopen dat deze jongeren na hun studies een job zullen vinden in de nijverheid. Want jong bloed kunnen we met het oog op de toekomst zeker gebruiken. In de Raad van Bestuur werd beslist dat we, als mede-oprichter, binnen Antwerp ITCCO een actieve rol willen blijven opnemen. Ook al is het actie-terrein van Antwerp ITCCO uitgebreid naar andere sectoren en partners zoals de Haven, Toerisme e.a.

Dit neemt niet weg dat de diamantsector een belangrijke plaats zal blijven bekleden.

Marc Thomassen, HRD Equipment; Willy Van Tolhuyzen

In het ICD blijft de bijdrage voor het sociaal plan behouden op 0,006%. Wij blijven met de inning, conform de afspraken destijds tussen handel en nijverheid, zo dicht mogelijk aansluiten bij de uitgaven van de compensatievergoedingen. Vanuit de overheid wordt dit nog steeds nauwgezet opgevolgd door de regeringscommissaris.

En zo, beste Dames en Heren, staan we weer voor een boeiend nieuw jaar, waarin we heel wat uitdagingen mogen verwachten. We hopen dat ieder van u hieraan zal deelnemen vanop zijn of haar niveau om de diamantsector ook in 2015 alle kansen op vooruitgang en ontplooiing te bieden.

Dan hef ik nu graag met u het glas op een schitterend nieuw jaar!

Gezondheid!

Jos Heiremans, bestuurslid SBD, Ann Theunis, Finserve; Gert Eysackers, directeur RVD; Karin Preud’homme, HRD Antwerp NV

15

Daniel Daeyaert en Frieda Coosemans, FOD Economie; Ari Epstein, CEO AWDC

Maurice Helsen; Stanny Van Blerk, Jef Van Eyck, bestuursleden SBD; Paul Sternberg, bestuurslid Vrije Diamanthandel; Roger Van den Heule

Lucien Cornelissens, bestuurslid SBD; Freddy Inzlicht, voorzitter Antwerpsche Diamantkring; Edward Denckens, voorzitter SBD

Philip Dergent, accountant van de Rijksverlofkas; Patrick Vanoirbeek, RJV; Pierre Tilleman

Prestigieuze trofee op toptennistornooi Diamond Games Na zeven jaar werd er terug op topniveau getennist in Antwerpen. De Diamond Games (februari 2015) zijn de eerste van het seizoen van de Premiers.

In traditie van weleer was de inzet een met diamanten bekleed racket, hetwelk een extra aantrekkingskracht heeft. Wie twee keer wint op drie jaar tijd neemt de racket mee.

Willy Henneuse, bestuurslid van SBD, heeft de trofee van deze Diamond Games gemaakt. In 2006 heeft hij reeds de eerste diamanten racket gemaakt. De nieuwe trofee is een gouden, met diamanten bekleed racket van 4,5 kg goud en 2008 diamanten.

Het heeft een waarde van 1,5 miljoen dollar. Willy Henneuse heeft een traditie in het maken van sporttrofeeĂŤn: een juweel

16

voor de Ronde van Vlaanderen, de Zesdaagse van Gent en een keu met diamanten voor het WK biljart.

Message of Maxim Shkadov, President International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA) Dear Members, Colleagues and Friends Time flies. As January 2015 is coming to a close, it is now clear that we still carry the burden of 2014 with us. As forecast last year, the reduction of diamond prices - as reflected in the Rapaport price list – offers proof of the supply of polished far exceeding demand. In practical terms, this means that we all have to get used to the new normal in polished diamond trading: a lack of control of the volume of the goods that is released to the market.

It saddens me to see – and say – that the rift between the interests of the diamond mining companies and the companies that are represented by IDMA is becoming wider year after year. I think the seriousness of the‘disconnect’ between the producers and the manufacturers is such that it can no longer be ignored.

However, in a recent media interview, De Beers’ CEO Philip Mellier proved that from De Beers’ point of view, all is fine.

Demand is up, and prices are on the rise. Good for them. But by taking this one-dimensional position, it negates the need for the health of all players in the diamond supply pipeline to be strong. And, as IDMA president, it is my mission to defend the interest of those players in the diamond supply pipeline who are most vulnerable to the policies of the producers.

Of course, companies like De Beers and Alrosa are required to satisfy their shareholders and to project their annual budget forecasts which need to reflect an increase in demand for rough diamonds – and they base their projections on the demand they expect to get from existing or potential clients.

It is this – flawed – model that causes the ‘disconnect’ between the – big – producers and the downstream pipeline. Basically, the producers consciously turn a blind eye to developments in the downstream section of the pipeline. Their sales and pricing models do not incorporate or take into account the demand and prices paid for polished, nor do they assess the cost of manufacturing, let alone the financing needed to turn rough into polished goods. As Mr. Mellier said: “…that’s not down to me.”

As I said earlier, the system of sales, where clients are cajoled into buying at prices that they know are not going to make them money, purely out of fear being deleted from the supplier’s client list, is flawed. Industry analyst Chaim Even-Zohar called this the Prisoner’s Dilemma. In practice, it means that the mining companies overcharge current clients, squeezing the very last drop out of them.

There seems to be a fundamental flaw in how the players in the rough market perceive the diamond business. Firms like De Beers, Alrosa and others, apparently want to realize their dream to sell all run-of-mine output directly to the big jewelry corporations such as Tiffany & Co, Chow Tai Fook, Sterling, and so on. They are mistaken.

Why so? Because the supposition that they will generate more profit by increasing these jewelers’ margins is not realistic.

This is a business that cannot work without dealers, without

companies that tailor a polished production to their specific needs, without suppliers that operate in niche diamond product markets. And are these jewelers ready to take on the role of dealers? Will they start holding stocks, financing them, channeling them into the downstream market, arranging for and issuing payment terms, and be faced with the reality of holding significant stocks that they are unable to sell?

And once they grasp what is needed to be a big client of the producers, will they gladly take on the many downsides that come with that privilege? The producers who continue this line of business are damaging the entire downstream pipeline. My advice to the producers’ clients is: be responsible, and do not buy!

The figures that industry analysts have presented at recent industry gatherings are also pure fiction. Last June, during the 36h World Diamond Congress in Antwerp, Martin Rapaport said that the cost difference between rough diamonds and the wholesale cost of diamonds is 30 percent. In December, at the inaugural World Diamond Conference in India, Chaim Even-Zohar raised that figure to 35 percent. (Why he did so is beyond me since in his annually published pipeline, it usually stands at 16-18 percent.) My colleagues and I - the manufacturers in this world – are telling you: it is zero percent!

In his interview with JCK Mr. Mellier said that it is possible to earn money on De Beers’ diamonds, but not does not specify how and where that is possible. I take that as a complete lack of understanding of what it takes to manufacture diamonds.

So, dear colleagues, let’s tell the truth, to each other and to those who are willing to listen. There is no profitable income to be made in diamond manufacturing. There is certainly not a 30 percent to 35 percent margin, nor is there added value generated at a rate of 16-18 percent. There is only a gain of 5-6 percent but that is not added value or profit – and this percentage does not cover financing, expenses and modest staff salaries.

If the margins are as indicated by the analysts, why on earth would sightholders and other core clients be ready to sell off their boxes - wrapped and sealed – for a margin of just 1.5 to two percent? As if they are car dealers who sell a car out of the showroom?

“If you look at a business I know very well – car dealers – they make 1.5 percent, and they are all smiling and happy about it,” Mr. Mellier said. Well, maybe it is time Mr. Mellier – and others – take a moment to learn this business and the diamond manufacturing world. Unlike the car industry, the diamond industry is completely different because very different polished diamonds are produced from diamonds that start out as very similar pieces

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of rough – sold at similar prices. One rough stone will result in a Renault Laguna (a top luxury sedan model) but the other just a Renault Clio (a lower end, much cheaper compact).

While we are blessed with highly advanced planning, decision making and manufacturing technologies, the outcome of production is never guaranteed – and as we, members of IDMA, all know, this means that we not only cannot predict the added value of our production, we can also not guarantee or plan its quality and character.

So, for the sake of the audience, let’s continue the comparison to the car industry and describe what the result is in the downstream market of the ‘unpredictability’ of diamond manufacturing.

Let’s say that the market demand for the Laguna model is high, and prices are firm. Unfortunately, the rough supplied that was supposed to yield luxury Lagunas resulted in compact Clios, and maybe a few mid-size Meganes (the Megane is Renault’s mid-sized family car), for which demand is low. That leaves the manufacturer with a stock, and in order to sell it he will need to carry out a promotion – and thus sell at a lower price than that projected.

But it gets worse. Currently, the dealerships (the downstream market – wholesalers, jewelry manufacturers and retail jewelers) tell us that they cannot sell the cars – even the compacts – at the prices we demand – due to surplus stocks, price resistance and a lack of interest in the retail and consumer market and competition from competing industries. In other words, the price of polished is down - while the producers keep raising the price of rough.

Of course, there will always be commentators and advisors who suggest that the only way to get around all this is by shortening

the supply pipeline, and to get jewelry manufacturers and retailers to take ownership of part of the upper end of the supply pipeline. While that may work for some of the larger jewelry entities, it still does not solve the problem of the overwhelming majority of diamond manufacturers – our IDMA members.

Under these circumstances – and I now refer to Mr. Mellier’s words about marketing and advertising – how can we be expected to finance any generic advertising if we cannot generate the margins needed that will allow for the investment of hundreds of millions?

IDMA is an early adopter of the World Diamond Mark, and we strongly believe in the need for generic marketing and promotion of diamonds. We do, however, need oxygen to breathe life into this. How many diamonds are used in the program Forevermark?

I believe not more than 2-4 percent of De Beers’ sales. In other words, generic marketing and promotion is a must.

In conclusion, on behalf of IDMA I want to address all key players, especially the rough diamond producers. Our sector is going through a severe crisis and suffers significant problems. We can solve them together but we simply cannot bear the responsibility and the burden single-handedly. Rough diamond prices must be in sync with polished diamond prices because polished diamond prices are determined on the basis of supply and demand, while rough diamond prices are speculative, due to the flawed, coercive supply system, as described above.

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9/01/12 14:11

Sixth Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair kicks-off, welcomes numerous leading delegations of first-time visitors The Sixth Edition of the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair (ADTF), the world’s exclusive by-invitation-only diamond trade show, welcomed many hundreds of buyers, among them not only delegations from existing, leading jewellery markets, but also from markets that until recently had remained unexplored, delegations of first time buyers from the Middle East, China and Eastern Europe, as well as from North Africa, in particular from Algeria.

The ADTF is an important link in Antwerp’s annual promotional and marketing campaigns and adds important value to the members of all bourses. Ernest Blom, President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), said the show is an important, value-adding event for the WFDB’s member bourses, and encouraged

other bourses to follow suit. “The ADTF is a fantastic event that enhances the role that the three Antwerp bourses taking part play in the downstream market and add value for their members. The ADTF is doing a great job in advancing diamond sales and is an important role model for the global diamond industry and trade,” Blom stated The fair, which is held in the trading halls of the Antwerp Diamond Bourse, the Diamond Club of Antwerp and the Antwerp Diamond Kring, featured more than 100 exhibitors which are among Antwerp’s -- and the world’s -- leading diamond manufacturing and trading firms.

The Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair is powered by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre.

Krochmal & Lieber BVBA

Espeka BVBA

DHV – De Hantsetters en Verhaere NV

Mishal Manufacturing NV

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Let us go back to the magic – Stephane Fischler Stephane Fischler, president of AWDC and vice president of SBD, gave an interview to Vladimir Malakhov, Rough&Polished, Moscow,in which, speaking about the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair, raised a number of other issues of current concern to the global diamond industry.

Now that the sixth edition of the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair is an accomplished event, it looks as if the convenience of doing business from computer-burdened offices is giving way to the good old pattern set on a new foundation. What are the reasons behind this kind of ‘renaissance’?

Well, first I would like to comment on the term “renaissance” contained in your question. We might have been less “visible” from the outside, but our performance over the years, clearly indicates that we never ceased to be very active. We are just pursuing our continuous improvement strategy to strengthen Antwerp’s competitive advantage.

Going back to the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair, I feel personally that relying solely on “cold” technology is certainly not enough and not, I would say, fitting for the diamond business. At the end of the day, we sell diamonds. We don’t sell any other commodities, which come in uniform size, shapes and so on. I believe that any time you sell a diamond to a consumer, there is a story behind it to be told.

I believe overreliance on technology takes away the Magic.

The magic that is so unique to diamonds. And I believe that diamonds have a unique “touch and feel” to them. It is about people, about taking a diamond in ones hands, admire it, get a feel of it. Of course, technology allows you to transfer an information “package”– but will never convey the magic of what diamonds are about. So, in that sense I think the physical encounter between a buyer, a diamond and a seller is after all what ensures the ultimate commitment to diamonds. And that’s exactly what the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair is offering. That is why I believe it is successful.

I would like to point also to the upcoming rough diamond trade fair organized by the Diamond Kring, the only diamond bourse in the world solely devoted to rough diamonds. Which is a “first” worldwide, again in Antwerp, and powered by the AWDC. It will have its second edition this month. The first was an overwhelming success.

Antwerp was the initiator of this trading pattern, which now seems to be reproduced by other global diamond centers in their own ways. Do you think it may deprive your venture of its attraction?

They say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

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Yes indeed, Antwerp was the innovator as in many other aspects of our industry. Again, I want to give credit to the bourses for having jump-started this local bourses’ based trade fair process, which was sorely needed, I must say. But they took up the challenge and they are doing it, which is to be commended. We at the AWDC stand behind them one hundred percent and will continue to provide our support as to any other added value venture. I’m happy to see other centers joining in. I see it in Israel, I see it in New York, I see it in other places. The main requirement is – adding value to the business, and to the members.

On the other hand, I see a lot of press releases going around the world every week. I hope the amount of added value realized is at least equal to a fraction of the amount of press releases that we see floating around.

So, I think people should focus more on providing good service and value for their members than spending time and money to issue so many press releases.

We know that today you were to give a press conference in Antwerp to announce trade figures reflecting the performance of Antwerp’s diamond sector, but instead came to Moscow to attend the funeral of Fyodor Andreev, ex-President of ALROSA. Could you say now if 2014 was better or worse compared with 2013 and in what regard?

Yes is it is true. I traveled to Moscow to pay my respect to Fyodor Andreev, his family and to the people of Alrosa.

Coming back to your question related to our 2014 trade figures. It was both. 58.8 billion U.S. dollars, is a record. It is the highest figure we ever reached in Antwerp, which in a sense is testimony to the strength of Antwerp in terms of its ability to continue attracting new business and maintain growth. On the other hand, the result of 2014 for the large majority of companies was very challenging, even negative for some. I mean, if we look at manufacturers and wholesale traders, especially on the polished side, but I believe also - certainly in the second half - on the rough side, it was simply disappointing. So, you have growing volumes and lower profitability, if not negative results. It is worrying, and I believe something has to be done. But this requires a collective reflection and solutions including all stakeholders. I am a little bit concerned that there is no concerted movement to really start sitting down and look at all those issues that impact profitability. We know that the main issue is, of course, the discrepancy between the price of rough and the price of polished. There are many issues impacting this situation, but I believe that dialogue should be started. I understand some producers may be not very interested in this dialogue, but I believe it is to their advantage that the industry starts to challenge the current dynamic of the last few years. Again, I would hope for

concerted action. I think that it is urgently needed. One part is, of course, a natural process, about variance in improved efficiencies creating better margins for some and increasing their market share. I believe as long as it is the result of higher efficiency, better marketing, better sales, better overall management that’s fine. But if it is the result of negative conduct by some participants in the industry, then we have serious concern.

Negative conduct, what do you mean by that?

I mean what we have seen for some time, for example the issue of abuse of grading standards. We have seen and heard about the criminal introduction of synthetics in the pipeline. We see banks being more and more concerned and aggressive in detecting so-called round tripping. All these issues are contributing to create and sustain “ghost” margins for some in the industry and distort competition.

If this is what is contributing to continuous speculation, then it is a very serious challenge and the industry should take the lead to address it. I believe some people in the industry are nervous or afraid to confront these various issues, including some in elected positions. Let me be here on the record: to those who are afraid to confront these, step aside and let those, who are really focused on trying to find solutions and re-establishing a fair play in this business, lead.

There seems to be another problem, which is the apparent rift between miners and manufacturers. Recently, Philippe Mellier of De Beers was cited as saying that his company believed there was money to be made with the rough stones sold by De Beers, but it was down to the sightholders to do what it takes to make money. On the other hand, Maxim Shkadov of IDMA said that the system of sales, where clients were cajoled into buying at prices that they knew were not going to make them money, was flawed. What is your take on this situation?

Yes, to come back to Mr. Mellier’s [remarks] and based on what was reported in Rob Bates’ interview, I think it was totally out of order and was extremely disrespectful in the manner he approached the issue. One can talk about his or her business model and opportunities, but one should respect its customers and especially those who transform rough into polished. I think that Mr. Mellier should understand that without rough being transformed into polished it will remain a chunk of coal, like Henry Kissinger would say. And there would be no Botswana success story as well as benefits to so many other African producers, if not for the people, who cut and polish rough into polished gems.

The other issue is that the diamond industry, say, roughly fifteen-twenty years ago, had a sight system but with a genuine dialogue between producers, manufacturers and traders.

Now, let’s not kid ourselves, everybody looks after his own interests first, that is only normal. But having said that, everybody should realize that our interests are interlinked.

The lack of profitability in the industry the last few years is impacting very strongly the ability of bankers to finance the

industry. I would question the viability of a sales system for rough diamonds without the long-term commitment of the banks based on profitable manufacturers.

Time to re-enter into a dialogue with the industry and since your question is directed at De Beers, the need to look at what is the best for their shareholders in general, their partners in Botswana, and for the diamond mining industry as a whole in terms of sustainability of rough prices. I am well aware about the very high financial requirements that investment in first class mining command – we are talking about huge amounts. On the other hand, to ensure that sufficient margins are generated to make these investments sustainable; it must remain so along the whole value chain.

Do you think these investments should also go into generic advertising or they should be used for miners’ own brands, as it is, for example, being done by De Beers to promote Forevermark?

Well, like every company De Beers has its own interests in mind. They have to consider, if their interest are best served in focusing exclusively on their own brand, meaning Forevermark, De Beers Diamond Jewelers and so on.

If they believe that is the way the diamond business will evolve - by going alone, I beg to differ. In the sense that I believe diamonds are part commodity (I agree), but mainly a luxury product required to be marketed in a sustained manner. Brand marketing can only play an important but limited role.

There has been an attempt to create a kind of cross-industry fund for generically marketing diamonds. Maybe this attempt should be revived. I sense that the whole industry knows that there is a lack of generic marketing, next to brand marketing. Besides attempts to launch diamond based investment products, diamonds as a luxury item remains a one-hundred-percent emotional commodity that should be safeguarded from being associated with negative conduct and impact. Certain marketing campaigns are focusing in part on these “negatives” to differentiate themselves. As being so-called “conflict free” trying to imply by default that all the others are somewhat tainted. That is unacceptable, because we all know that the diamond industry working hard within the Kimberley Process has managed to reduce the impact of diamonds on conflict to a very, very small percentage. We must never rest on our laurels but nevertheless be proud of our collective achievements. So again, to continuously promote by means of differentiation these branded diamonds as being conflict-free, ecologically safe and so on, I think it goes against the grain of what the collective best interest of the industry is. De Beers is free to promote its own brand of diamonds as it wishes, but I would still think that as a leading producer, it is in their own best interest to pick up the challenge in concert with the whole industry.

Now that ALROSA is increasing its supplies of rough to India, does it affect the Antwerp diamond market in some way?

We need to look exactly at what ‘increased supply’ means and I congratulate, of course, my Indian colleagues about

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IGC Group NV

A.M.C. NV

Muller & Sons Diamonds NV

HRD Antwerp NV

Eurostar Diamond Traders NV

Arjav Diamonds NV

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Fischler Diamonds NV

TachĂŠ Company NV-SA

their efforts, and these are real but marginal increases. We still, as you well know, receive the bulk of the goods of ALROSA for very objective and solid arguments and I see no reason why this would change in the future. Antwerp has developed itself into a highly professional infrastructure, combining transparency, solid competition and efficiency, which I believe we have no equal yet in the world. We have the confidence of the bankers. Although, I admit, this confidence is a bit shaken by the wind-down of the ADB, unrelated to the state of the industry. It does remain a big challenge to us and we are busy addressing it. On the other hand, we see bankers coming to Antwerp, and some starting to enter the business. They seem to be quite encouraged by what they hear and what they see. I can testify that the active banks in Antwerp are also fully supportive of our efforts and we are thankful for that. But it can only happen if we maintain this course of focusing on transparency and strict application of the Bourses’ disciplinary measures. That is also a condition to continuously motivate the producers to bring their goods to Antwerp in such volumes as we see today.

In your opinion, are there any new opportunities for ALROSA to expand its ties with Belgian diamond companies?

I think so, absolutely. I think there are excellent diamond companies in Antwerp, financially strong and highly professional in their processes. Antwerp has recently launched what they call the Young Diamantaires Club, which is a Bourse initiative to focus specifically on a new generation of diamantaires, whether they have strong family ties or not this is the future of Antwerp. It is a challenge that must be met, as in India for example; a new and talented generation is entering the business. I think we realize in Antwerp that we left this issue a little bit on the side, which was an error, and it is now being addressed with the right vigor. By convening them together we just now realize the asset Antwerp has. Certainly, the AWDC will give its full support to the bourses to fulfill this objective, supporting and nurturing this new generation.

How many people do you have there in that Club?

I believe around fifty young diamantaires, which is a good start.

Do you think if the cost of labor in Russia turns cheaper for export-oriented diamond manufacturers on the backdrop of a weaker ruble, this may help them to increase their margins?

Of course, it is a factor. An unfortunate and hopefully short-lived, but it is. Being well aware of the situation, I believe that with adequate continuous investment programs the Russian cutting industry can be very competitive. But as far as I know, the laws of the market are as valid for them as for any other manufacturing center. It is a very competitive environment. So managing to create margins is the bottom line for survival. The rule of thumb is simple.

If your cost of labor is no higher than 10% of the cost of the rough, coupled with the right mix of infrastructure and skills you are competitive.

And the bottom level is two grainers?

Yes, the bottom level is around better sawables 2-3 grainers, which I believe makes the Russian manufacturers competitive with the Chinese industry for this range of better quality goods and higher. For more expensive goods, roughly around 800$/ct and higher, and under the conditions mentioned above, Russia is competitive versus their Indian counterparts.

Again, the need to manage continuous improvement programs and secure timely investment in hard- and software is essential. But I believe that the skills are there.

All of this of course dependent on the highly competitive rough market and the resulting polish prices. So, efficiency is now simply the bottom line that everybody must secure in order to be able to survive.

I think that in broader terms, the main challenge is that the industry secures its margins out of cost control and financial management rather that added value. However, it is easier said than done. We are stuck between price lists and grading certificates, two independent parameters that are dictating the price and the quality of our polished diamonds. We have to – and it is very important – break this “glass ceiling” on prices, to quote Charles Wyndham.

Otherwise, it will become extremely difficult for the industry to be sustainable.

With regard to the grading itself – maybe it is the first time that I share this opinion, but I believe that we went too far into the description of diamonds. I believe we lost “touch” with diamonds. These days we sell more “paper” than “dream”.

We must change, go back to diamonds and leave paper aside simply as “documentation”. Information is necessary; too much information is confusing and sometimes an opportunity for abuse.

So, in a sense I call to the industry to go back to diamonds and leave all these descriptions and papers more to the side. “Let us go back to the magic” is my motto.

We have to change our attitude. I think it is essential.

I would like to take this opportunity to say a few words about Fyodor Andreev.

He was a man worthy of respect, warm and charming. I believe he had a remarkably clear view of the future. He was very focused on the company while maintaining a long- term vision. Besides having re-enforced the leadership position of ALROSA, he was confident to open up all its processes to outside investors and so realizing a very successful IPO. I believe, and it is my personal opinion, that the IPO was not solely about bringing money into the company, but more than that – opening the company itself to the scrutiny of outside investors and to show anyone how strong and well managed the company was, how good its people were. He was very passionate about it, about pushing it forward, going outside of Russia and make people respect the company for being a leader in its field. Though my Russian is unfortunately far from what it should be, I sensed by the numerous speeches I heard this morning [at the funeral], including the speeches of people who just came forward, the very high respect and emotion conveyed. Even more so by expressions of strength and

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belief in the future thanks to him and each and everyone at ALROSA. No long ago, the AWDC held a seminar in Davos attended by international financial institutions and dedicated to the crediting problems experienced by industry players not abiding the new banking regulations in a changed diamond-financing environment. What was the aim of this seminar and what is the current situation with crediting in the Belgium diamond industry?

The aim of the seminar was primarily to inform the banking community of what the diamond business is about, present them with an insight in terms of the dynamics of our industry, financial flows/processes and so on. AWDC had a mission to broaden the banking landscape and attract more bankers into the industry. The only way to attract bankers is to share with them information, invite them to come to Antwerp, to visit the industry and so to start the learning process. What we feel, and I am sure it is shared by all my colleagues, is that few bankers understand the industry, because they see diamonds as a commodity, but without access to independent, reliable and solid data. It is a huge challenge. And it is something Fyodor Andreev identified and recognized as well. This objective data is absolutely crucial to any financial party in the sector. Anyone who wants to lend money would like to know its potential customer’ business, its numbers, and to be able to have access to independent and verifiable data to gauge the opportunity and risk. Without that, I am afraid, diamond banking will be less and less about opportunities and more about the risks with all the resulting consequences. We have to change this perception. There are very good opportunities in this business. There are a lot of excellent companies, and not only the huge multinational ones.

If you look at the risk indicators within our industry, the big multinational ones are not less risky than small and medium companies. Bankers should not exclusively focus themselves just on the top 50 or 100 in the industry.

This was one of our aims in Davos – to start the communication process with the banking world. And Davos is, of course, a unique opportunity to meet the right people in one place.

In the end of January, the AWDC hosted Bernardo Campos, the Chair of the Kimberley Process (KP).

Could you elaborate on his mission to Antwerp?

Yes, it was, I believe the first mission abroad of Mr. Campos as the elected Chair of the Kimberley Process. He came to Antwerp for two reasons. First, to build on the discussions we had during our multiple visits to Luanda in 2014, where we shared our views on the KP and Angola’s chairmanship.

Secondly, of course, to visit the secretariat of the KP Administrative Support Mechanism, headquartered in Antwerp.

Mr. Campos was accompanied by Mr. Paulo M’vika and two other officials in charge of the KP chairmanship. We had some very good discussions, and were impressed by the wide-ranging and ambitious agenda presented. Including issues such as money laundering and human rights among others, that – let us be honest – were not always tackled

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openly. Angola is taking up the challenge, knows that these are issues that need to be addressed and expressed its firm willingness to put them on the table. So I think it has to be welcomed, and supported.

What is your outlook for the diamond market in 2015?

I think there is a consensus that the current inventories of polished will take time to rebalance itself.

Unfortunately, the volumes that were expected to be sold by the trade in the consumer markets, have not been realized.

I believe there was a kind of over optimism and consequent overproduction of polished in India without due care for the actual demand. India of course being the main manufacturing center by far and thus its production has a disproportionate impact on supply. It is this overhang of production that now has an impact on cash flows and polished prices. Due to recent reduction of polished production in India – if my information is correct, we are talking about a 20-30-percent reduction – it will take a few months for the necessary tension [between supply and demand] to be reestablished. I believe for the better half of 2015 we expect to see a slow rebalancing and hopefully combined with improved prices for polished due to combination of diminishing production and healthy demand. Yes, the American market performed well, as China and India did, though below expectations. I am afraid the industry has been used to see China outperforming everyone, so we are back now to “good” growth patterns. China is a strong market, but we should stop dreaming that China can grow every year by 15-20 percent. Growing by 6-7 percent is a very healthy growth.

Both producers and manufacturers have to face off reality and measure very carefully market performance and adapt their planning to retail demand instead of relying on speculative movements. My guess is that we should be happy if in August or September when we will come back from holidays, the equilibrium will be re-established.

The diminishing production will gradually induce shortages in some categories. First signs are already apparent.

Do you think the accumulated polished inventories can affect the supply of rough?

The supply of rough does not depend on us, it depends on the producers…and the bankers. The producers can do three things. They can restrict their supply, they can re-assort their goods and they can lower their prices. I think it should be a mix of these three. If they use their means judiciously, carefully relying on objective market data, we’ll get there but only linked, obviously, to resurrected margins.

I would like to conclude with a message to the people at ALROSA and to the Russian industry in general. You have through sheer hard work and excellence risen together to the top of the industry. Fyodor Andreev had two passions known to me in his life: his family and you. When you pass away so young, very few people can claim they had such a large and meaningful impact on their country, on their company. Fyodor Andreev did and should be remembered for that.

Convenant opleidingen diamantbewerking De diamantsector is een van de belangrijkste economische sectoren in ons land en creëert heel wat werkgelegenheid.

Dankzij de opleiding diamantbewerker die het Stedelijk Onderwijs Antwerpen aanbiedt, blijft er genoeg expertise aanwezig om exclusieve en grote stenen nog steeds in diamantstad Antwerpen te kunnen slijpen.

Meer dan 84% van alle ruwe diamanten en de helft van alle geslepen diamanten passeert in Antwerpen. Goed geschoolde werkkrachten zijn dus essentieel. Om de afstemming tussen de opleiding en de werkvloer te optimaliseren, werd een vernieuwd convenant ondertekend. De stad Antwerpen, het AWDC, het Fonds voor de Diamantnijverheid en het Stedelijk Onderwijs willen met dit convenant de opleiding diamantbewerking nog beter laten aansluiten op de behoeften van de diamant- en juwelensector.

_

De ondertekening vond plaats in aanwezigheid van: • Bart De Wever, burgemeester q • Claude Marinower, schepen voor onderwijsg • Ari Epstein, CEO van Antwerp World Diamond Centre • Luc Goris, bestuurder van het Fonds voor de Diamantnijverheid

DE HANTSETTERS & VERHAERE

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De opleiding diamantbewerking Het Stedelijk Lyceum Meir biedt als enige school in Europa de beroepsopleiding diamantbewerking aan. Het AWDC en het Fonds voor de Diamantnijverheid financieren mede deze opleiding. AWDC stelt ook lokalen ter beschikking, waar diamantbewerkers in spe met de nieuwste technieken - ontwikkeld door het Wetenschappelijk en Technisch Onderzoekscentrum voor Diamant (WTOCD) - aan de slag kunnen.

Het Stedelijk Lyceum Meir werkt voortdurend aan kwaliteitsverbetering. Leerlingen krijgen voortaan een ‘diamantbad’ waarin ze praktische informatie en inzicht krijgen in de sector. Om de doorstroom te verbeteren, werd er een ‘competentieprofiel’ opgesteld waaraan de leerlingen uiteindelijk moeten voldoen.

De partners engageren zich tevens om meer stages en werkplekleren te voorzien.

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Tel. : +32 (0)3 233 90 76

Diamantschool Stedelijk Lyceum Meir Fax : +32 (0)3 231 72 34 2018 Antwerpen - Belgium www.dhv.be ©info@dhv.be Stad Antwerpen

Ari Epstein, CEO AWDC; Ludo Van Campenhout, schepen voor B-2018 Antwerpen diamant; Bart De Wever, burgemeester; Carine Leys, bestuurder AG Stedelijk Onderwijs; Claude Belgium Marinower, schepen voor Onderwijs; 03-233.65.59 03-234.28.51 Luc Goris,Tel. bestuurder Fonds voor-deFax: Diamantnijverheid www.crisdiam.com © Stad Antwerpen

INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND MANUFACTURERS

IMPORTERS - EXPORTERS

Hoveniersstraat 53, box 127 • B-2018 Antwerpen-Belgium Phone : (03) 206 16 00 • Fax : (03) 206 16 01 www.rosyblue.com

25

Robijn Indien men een classificatie in kleurstenen moet maken, moet men ongetwijfeld met de mooiste en duurste steen beginnen: de robijn.

Als men over top-kwaliteit: spreekt kan men de blauw-witte diamanten vergelijken met robijnen die een duivenbloedrode kleur hebben. Robijn is een rode korund variëteit, kristalliseert in een hexagonale vorm en heeft 9 op de hardheidschaal van Mohs.

Op de schaal “sclerometrie” van Rosiwal staat robijn op 1000 en diamant op 140.000. Robijnen worden niet zoals diamanten geklasseerd volgens internationaal opgelegde normen. Om de kwaliteit te bepalen gebruiken de handelaars meestal termen van de oorsprong van de steen, zoals Birma nu Myanmar, Siam nu Thailand en Ceylon nu Sri Lanka. De oorsprong van de steen heeft in principe niets te maken met de prijs. Men kan mooie stenen vinden in Siam en zeer slechte in Birma of Myanmar.

Een certificaat uitgegeven door een juwelier of een laboratorium zal nooit de oorsprong van een steen als een kwaliteitslabel vermelden. Om een robijn te evalueren, moeten verschillende aspecten in acht genomen: Kleur Robijn onderscheidt zich door zijn rode kleur, veroorzaakt door kleine sporen van chroom in het kristalrooster. De kleurclassificatie gaat van intens rood tot een donkerrode kleur. Als de steen een roze kleur heeft zal hij ontegensprekelijk geklasseerd worden bij de roze saffieren en zal hij nooit beschouwd worden als een rode robijn. Als we een donkerrode, bruine of paarse kleur hebben, is dit te wijten aan het gehalte aan ijzer en vanadium in de steen.

Donkerrode robijnen komen meestal voor in Thailand en paarse in Vietnam.

De beste kleur is de beroemde duivenbloedrode kleur, de fijnste schakering van rood. Als de kleur iets donkerder is wordt het ossenbloed genoemd. Als het lichter is wordt het kersroodgenoemd. Een professioneel zal dit als Birma kwaliteit vaststellen (Myanmar steen) omdat er in deze mijnen stenen met deze kleur gevonden worden. Recent werd er in Luc Yen (Vietnam) een mijn ontdekt waar de stenen een mooie licht karmijn tot elektrisch rode kleur hebben. Vakmensen zullen “Siam” of “Thai” rangschikken onder commer-ciële stenen. Deze vertonen een lichte violetrode schakering.

Thailand produceert ook duivenbloed rode robijnen, vooral in de streek van Pailin, dicht bij de grens met Cambodja. De term “Ceylon” betekent een steen uit Sri Lanka, met een meer roosrode kleur. Soms is deze steen duurder dan een Siam steen. Mens preekt ook over Afrikaanse of Tanzaniaanse robijn die afkomstig zijn uit Kenia.

Deze termen beïnvloedende de waarde niet. De kwaliteit van deze regio varieert van licht tot donker rood maar ook van transparant tot opaak. Sommigen kunnen even mooi zijn als die van Birma.

Ook andere factoren zijn belangrijk voor de evaluatie: Tonaliteit: Het beste is een middelmatige nuance, niet te licht, niet te donker.

Op een denkbeeldige schaal gaande van kleurloos tot zwart, zou de ideale kleur gesitueerd worden op 3/4 van de schaal.

Leven of schittering van de steen: In een robijn moet leven zitten, hij moet schitteren. Dit wordt niet alleen bepaald door de kwaliteit van de steen maar ook door het vakmanschap van de persoon die hem geslepen heeft. De ideale verhoudingen en in het bijzonder het slijpen en het polijsten van de facetten spelen een zeer belangrijke rol. Een ervaren slijper kan een te donkere steen lichter maken en een te lichte steen donkerder maken. Dit hangt enkel af van de manier waarop de steen geslepen is. In het boek “Le Diamant” van Henri Jacobs uit 1880, schrijft hij over robijn als volgt: “Saint Epiphane dit que la lumière du rubis est dune nature si extraordinaire que rien ne peut l’arrêter, qu’elle brille même au travers des vêtements les plus épais” Synthetische stenen hebben de zelfde chemische en fysische samenstelling in tegenstelling tot imitaties die uit een ander materiaal gemaakt zijn. Deze imiteren enkel het oppervlakkig aspect van een robijn. Een bekwaam gemmoloog zal gemakkelijk een echte robijn van een synthetische of een imitatie onderscheiden. Er zijn ook veel natuurlijke rode steen die sterk gelijken op robijnen: • Rode spinel. Vele koninklijke juwelen bevatten rode spinel: bijv. In de Britse kroonjuwelen, de beroemde Black Prins is een spinel.

• Toermalijn, de variëteit rubeliet.

• Roodbruine granaat.

• Gekleurd glas of doubletten (glasplaatjes gekleefd op kleurloze korund, granaat of een ander materiaal).

De consument werd reeds in de 15de eeuw gewaarschuwd voor vervalsingen. Door smelttechnieken werden er sinds begin van vorige eeuw synthetische stenen gemaakt uit korundpoeder.

Synthetische flux robijnen kwamen op de markt sinds het einder van de negentiende eeuw. Diverse pogingen werden ondernomen om de kwaliteit van synthetische stenen te verbeteren o.a. door Chatham, Kashan, Knischka, Ramaura, enz.

Barsten in een robijn worden gevuld met opticon of gelijkaardige producten om deze te doen verdwijnen. Sommige robijnen werden met een gekleurde laag bespoten, of met beryllium bewerkt, men noemt dit “coating”. Net zoals bij diamant.

De meeste robijnen op de markt werden “verhit” om een betere kleur te bekomen. De bepaling van een synthetische of gemanipuleerde steen is soms toch moeilijk geworden. Een gemmoloog zal het verschil “aanvoelen” tussen een echte robijn en een synthetische. Ingewikkelde testen en gesofistikeerd materiaal dienen er gebruikt te worden om dit te bewijzen en een grondige wetenschappelijke opleiding is vereist. Het is niet aan te raden om in het Verre Oosten of in andere exotische landen stenen aan te kopen van een onbekende organisatie. Vertrouwen speelt dan ook een zeer grote rol.

Waarde De “gem” robijn is de duurste edelsteen. Door zijn zeldzaamheid en de beperkte bevoorrading zijn kwaliteitsstenen moeilijk te vinden.

Het is ook aan te raden bij de aankoop van een mooie robijn een certificaat te eisen van b.v. IGI, GIA of Güblin.

Uitzonderlijke robijnen hebben, bij veilinghuizen, reeds prijzen van 100.000 tot 800.000 US$ per karaat gehaald.

Eddy Vleeschdrager

26

Brief security summary guideline to assist in awareness and in prevention of thefts at trade shows Driesassur, a leading insurance broker, shares this guideline.

Prepare for the show if you want it to be a success * Too often participants only start organizing at the last minute, plan well in advance. * Ensure that you have good looking solid window displays that are closed from all sides except the access, with key lock, a counter display between yourself and your customers, a good table with some chairs. * When renting a safe for your booth, always ask for one with key and combination and change the combination. * Make sure the cameras are installed and check that they are operational prior to the start of the show. * Get the goods there on time. Ensure that your staff receiving the goods is aware of the shipping list and they can check this with the goods.

card, references, etc. * Have someone check this information/reference while you are busy with the potential customer. * If possible for larger stones always show certificates before showing the stone. * For new customers, always have one person dealing with the client, one on the side and one behind the client, its easy to spot if they try to switch a stone or steal using sticky fingers. * Deal with one customer at a time especially if it is an unknown one so that you and your team are alert. * Foresee each person’s responsibilities in advance for the length of the show. * Most shows are open to the public on certain days. Reduce your exposure on these days.

Switching of stones * The thieves normally target round shaped stones as producing zircons for this shape is easy. * Ensure that you put a weighing scale on each and every viewing table to weigh larger stones before and after showing it and ensure you do it. Do not let the potential customer leave before you weigh the stone.

During the show and especially the first day

* Equip your booth with CCTV and ensure that the monitor is very clearly visible showing the recording to everyone. Thieves avoid such booths and would more happily target a booth without the recording.

* Watch for the first visitors, unknown to you. These may be professional thieves.

* Do not show large stones over the counter. Invite customers for such stones inside the booth and take your time.

* Recent shows have proven that maximum losses take place on the first day during the early hours.

* Do not allow potential customers to use their own cleaning cloth and clean the stone yourself. If it needs to be cleaned using your own cloth.

* Check what overnight storage is offered at night for the goods with the shipping company/exhibition organizer.

* Watch for unknown people who come again and again, or those who come in groups of 2 to 3 persons. * For any potential and unknown customer collect as much information as possible before showing them a stone. * This includes copy of passport, company information, business

Inhorgenta Munich 2015: Positive Impulses for the Industry

* Push potential customers to use tweezers to view the stones instead of their hands. * Make sure you have a clean table policy as it is easier to steal from a messy table than a clean one.

• International mix of the visitors has increased

of the trade show and praised the high quality of the trade visitors and the good level of orders. Over 26,000 visitors from more than 75 countries came to Munich in order to gather information about new products, trends and developments of the industry.

Klaus Dittrich, Chairman of the Board of Management of Messe München GmbH, is also very satisfied: “Despite the tense situation in the industry, the trade show was characterized by a very positive mood. The numerous orders that were placed show that INHORGENTA MUNICH continues to be the most important platform for good business.”

This year, the 42nd INHORGENTA MUNICH has shown again that it is an important order and communication platform for manufacturers and specialist dealers. 1,055 exhibitors from 40 countries presented their new products in the period from 20 to 23 February. Many of them expressed how extremely satisfied they were with the course

The next INHORGENTA MUNICH will be held from 12 to 15 February 2016 at the exhibition grounds of Messe München.

You can find further information on the trade show at www.inhorgenta.com.

Photos for downloading are available in the image archive.

• Exhibitors very satisfied with the high level of orders • High quality of the trade visitors

27

Personalia Wim Ruythooren nieuwe bestuurder in HRD Antwerp nv Dhr. Wim Ruythooren, bestuurslid van SBD, is voor 4 jaar aangeduid door AWDC als bestuurder van de HRD Antwerp.

Hij is gekozen uit een lijst van 4 personen voorgedragen door de nijverheidsorganisaties SBD en VKD, samen met de beurzen en dit omwille van zijn ‘bijzondere kennis of ervaring wat betreft certificaten’.

RJC

***

Following members of SBD have renewed their membership with RJC, or have achieved certification meeting the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC’s Member Certification Scheme: Eurostar Diamond Traders Tache Company

In memoriam

***

•

With regret SBD learned the passing away of Mr. Fyodor Andreev, former President of Alrosa.

Under his leadership, the relations between Alrosa and Antwerp grew intensively and Antwerp became a trusted and preferred partner. Mr. Fyodor Andreev will be remembered for his contribution and vision in building a strong global diamond industry.

•

SBD also received the news that Mr. Kaushik Bhansali passed away. Mr. Bhansali was a former member of the Board of Directors of the Antwerpsche Diamantkring.

The Syndicate of the Belgian Diamond Industry wants to extend to the members of both families her deepest condolences.

***

Helpdesk voor het openen van bankrekeningen AWDC heeft een stappenplan en standaardbrieven opgesteld welke u kunnen helpen bij het bekomen van een contact bij de bank voor het openen van een bankrekening.

AWDC wilt uw dossier mee opvolgen.

Hiervoor is een Bank Account Helpdesk opgericht: Tel: 0800/29345 Email: legal@awdc.be Contactpersonen: Trissia Stavropoulos/Najib Bardid/ Marijke Achten 28

SBD was vertegenwoordigd December 2014 2/12

4/12

5/12 9/12

13-14/12 16/12

17/12

- VBO - Commissie Sociale Zaken - Plenaire zitting Paritair Comité voor de Diamantnijverheid en -Handel - RvB Rijksverlofkas voor de Diamantnijverheid - Bestendig Comité WTOCD - Algemene Raad WTOCD - RvB AWDC - RvB HRD Antwerp NV - RVD - Plenaire zitting Paritair Comité voor de Diamantnijverheid en -Handel - World Diamond Conference - New Delhi - VBO-CSA - RvB Fonds voor de Diamantnijverheid - RVD - Evenement AXA - Commissie Beroepskaarten (FBDB) FOD Economie

Januari 2015 6/1 8/1 13/1

15/1 20/1

21/10

22/1 23/1

26/1

27/1

28/1 29/1 30/1

- RVD - Bureel SBD - VBO - CSA - Vergadering BVGD - Gilde van Diamant en Edelstenen - AWDC - SBD - Bureel SBD - Vergadering Koninklijk Instituut der Laureaten van de Arbeid - RVD - Nieuwjaarsreceptie AWDC - Werkgroep ICD - Action Learning for Sustainability (Antwerp ITCCO) - Vergadering BVGD - Gilde van Diamant en Edelstenen - AWDC - SBD - RvB Fonds voor de Diamantnijverheid - FBDB: voorstelling “Memories Book” 36th World Diamond Congress - RVD - Nieuwjaarsreceptie RVD & Fondsen - RvB AWDC - Bestendig Comité WTOCD - Ontmoeting Minister Borsus, Minister van Middenstand, Zelfstandigen, KMO’s, Landbouw en Maatschappelijke Integratie

Februari 2015 1-3/2 2/2 3/2 5/2 11/2

12/2 17/2 19/2 24/2 26/2

- Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair - IDC Meeting - RVD - Ontmoeting Diplomaten - Ondernemers - RvB HRD Antwerp NV - Werkcomité FDN - Vergadering RVA Directeurs/FDN - RVD - RvB HRD Antwerp NV - RVD - Bureel SBD

Did you know the smallest details can make a world of difference?

We do! That’s why accuracy is the air we live and breathe.

Simply Sparkling

HRD Antwerp is the leading authority when it

Advanced Technological Diamond Manufacturing Schupstraat 9/11 l 2018 Antwerp tel: +32 3 206 50 80 l fax: +32 3 206 50 89

comes to diamond certification, education and equipment. Through innovation and research we have become the centre of diamond knowhow. We strive for perfection, delivering the highest quality in all our products and services.

DE HANTSETTERS & VERHAERE

NV

Discover more at

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Tel. : +32 (0)3 233 90 76 Fax : +32 (0)3 231 72 34 www.dhv.be

CERTIFICATION | EDUCATION | EQUIPMENT

THROUGH ITS INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUES AND PIONEERING RESEARCH, DIAMCAD HAS OBTAINED A UNIQUE POSITION IN THE MARKET OF HIGH VALUE GEM STONES. OUR TEAM OF HIGHLY SKILLED AND DEDICATED PROFESSIONALS BRING THEIR WIDE EXPERIENCE WHEN HANDLING A STONE WITH THE PARTICULAR ATTENTION AND SPECIAL APPROACH IT DESERVES. AS A RESULT OF THIS EXCEPTIONAL MIXTURE OF TECHNOLOGY, INSIGHT AND CRAFTSMANSHIP, DIAMCAD HAS ACQUIRED A PROMINENT REPUTATION.

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