Geographical Expeditions - Summer 2018 by Syon Media

S N O I T I D E P X

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THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO EXPEDITION CRUISING

FEATURING AURORA EXPEDITIONS HAPAG-LLOYD CRUISES HURTIGRUTEN ONE OCEAN EXPEDITIONS PONANT POSEIDON EXPEDITIONS SILVERSEA EXPEDITIONS

E S T A K

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H E R T R F U

ALSO INSIDE

THE WONDER OF WHALES BIRDS OF THE GALÁPAGOS

S T N E T N CO

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Welcome

he world of adventure cruising is booming. Nowhere is this more evident than in the shipyards of the world, as dedicated craftsmen work night and day building the latest vessels to enter the world’s leading expedition fleets. More cruise companies than ever before are putting the finishing touches to exciting new ships for adventure-seekers everywhere to enjoy – from revolutionary hull designs to all-new ways to view your surroundings to the latest in on-board technology maximising your experience. If the past few years were about opening up new parts of the world, the next few will be about pioneering new ways to enjoy those locations once you get there.

4 News

EDITORIAL PUBLISHER Graeme Gourlay +44 20 8332 8401 graeme@syonpublishing.com EDITOR Paul Presley +44 20 8332 8405 paul@geographical.co.uk DESIGN Gordon Beckett 07836 710970 gordon@mauvestudios.com SUB-EDITOR Joanne O’Brien EDITOR-AT-LARGE Geordie Torr

All that’s new in the world of expedition cruising

8 Silversea Expeditions

Finding the bold, the bizarre and the beautiful

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14 Huritgruten

The magic of the majestic Northern Lights

18 Whales

The ultimate kings of the sea

ADVERTISING HEAD OF COMMERCIAL Ian James +44 20 3900 0146 ian@syonmedia.com COMMERCIAL MANAGER Lee Morris +44 20 3900 0147 geographical@syonmedia.com

24 Poseidon Expeditions Enjoying the spirit of Spitsbergen

26 Hapag-Lloyd Cruises

New ships, new destinations, new adventures

32 Aurora Expeditions

Tips for making the most of the polar regions

39 Birds of the Galápagos

MAIN OFFICE OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Simon Simmons +44 20 3900 0145 simon@syonmedia.com FINANCE MANAGER Ramesh Parshotam +44 20 8332 8420 accounts@syonpublishing.com

Everything a bird-watcher needs, in one beautiful location

46 Ponant

Bringing a ‘French touch’ to the high seas

48 One Ocean Expeditions

Unforgettable moments on an unforgettable voyage

Geographical Expeditions ©2018 Published by Syon Geographical Ltd. Registered office: Suite 3.16, QWest, Great West Road, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 0GP. Registration number 07457559. All rights reserved. Syon Geographical Ltd cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material or photographs.

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Size Matters n At the heart of most adventure cruising experiences is the knowledge that passenger numbers are on the smaller side. Unlike the 1,000 passenger-strong behemoths in the Mediterranean or Caribbean, your polar expeditions or trips along the Amazon necessitate ships with a more manageable number of passengers. However, when even 50-100 fellow travellers feels too crowded, that’s when you need the services of a chartered superyacht to really get away from the throng. Until now, the main thing holding most people back from such a bespoke venture has been the hefty price tag associated with commanding your own luxury vessel. Luckily, from 2019, EYOS

Expeditions is starting a cabin-only service, giving passengers the option of hiring individual berths rather than entire yachts for trips into the Antarctic, South Pacific and Maldives. ‘We are creating an experience that was, up until now, available only to private yacht owners or those who chartered an entire yacht,’ says EYOS CEO Ben Lyons. ‘We firmly believe the smaller the number of guests on an expedition, the better the experience, and with a private yacht-sized group, the experience will be intimate and bespoke.’ • Prices begin from €25,000 per person for seven days in the Antarctic from next January. eyos-expeditions.com

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Closer to Home n While most expedition cruising sees travellers embarking to remote parts of the globe, there’s still plenty of adventure to be found in nearer shores. To that end, Poseidon Expeditions has launched a series of cruises taking in the best of the British Isles. Departing from Plymouth in May 2019, the M/V Sea Spirit will take nature lovers on a 13-day journey north through the Irish Sea, and around the coast of Scotland before disembarking in Edinburgh. Stops along the way include the Scilly Isles, Llandudno in Wales, Northern Ireland, the Hebrides and Orkney Islands, and even Bass Rock in the Firth of Forth. The journey gives passengers the opportunity to explore landscapes, wildlife and history that often get overlooked due to the difficulties for most in reaching these remote locations. On board, guests can benefit from expert advice from historian and broadcaster Huw Lewis-Jones, former curator at the Scott Polar Research Institute and the National Maritime Museum in London. • Poseidon is offering a 15 per cent discount on the price of the trip if booked prior to November with prices ranging from £4,046 to £8,156 for the 13-day cruise. poseidonexpeditions.com

Hurtigruten Goes Plastic-Free n Widely being seen as one of the most major pollution-related issues of current times, single-use plastics have rightly been seen to be the scourge of clean seas. As part of its ethos of responsible expedition cruising, Hurtigruten has become the first major cruise company to ban single-use plastics from its vessels and has stated that its goal is to become the first plastic-free shipping company in the world. ‘At Hurtigruten, we have focused on the problem with plastic pollution for years,’ said CEO Daniel Skjeldam (pictured left). ‘There is a lot of talk about the impact plastic has on our oceans. But it’s time to take action. By getting rid of single-use plastic on board all ships already by this summer, we will hopefully get others to follow.’ The aim is to remove all single-use plastics by July, from cutlery to the packaging used on portions of butter. ‘Plastic pollution is the single biggest threat to our oceans,’ said Skjeldma. ‘Hurtigruten operates in some of the most vulnerable areas in the world. This means that we carry a special responsibility to protect these areas for the local population and future generations of explorers.’ The ban will also be imposed on Hurtigruten’s hotels, restaurants and other land-based establishments on Svalbard, and the company is challenging its suppliers to reduce their uses of the material.

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Antarctica proving more popular n More passengers than ever before are discovering the majesty of the Antarctic region. The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) has reported its visitor numbers for the 2017-2018 Antarctic season with the upward trend recorded since 2011-2012 continued into 2017-2018. Overall, the total number of Antarctic visitors in 2017-2018 was 51,707, an increase of 17 per cent over the previous season. The majority of those visitors (41,996) travelled by sea to Antarctica on vessels offering excursions ashore, representing a 16 per cent increase over the previous year. Of these, 3,408 flew to the South Shetland Islands on the Antarctic Peninsula where they boarded a vessel for onward travel. In addition, 9,131 visitors experienced Antarctica on one of four cruise-only vessels that do not make landings, an increase of 22 per cent since 2016-2017. ‘Antarctica receives relatively few visitors compared to other destinations,’ says Terry Shaller, chair of the IAATO executive committee. ‘The number of tourists who set foot on the continent this past year is less than half the number of spectators at the Super Bowl.’ American passengers remained the most numerous of those visiting the polar region, accounting for 33 per cent of the total. However, Chinese visitor numbers are on the up, accounting for the second most numerous set of visitors at 16 per cent – an increase of four per cent from 2016-2017’s numbers. Australian, German and British visitors filled out the rest of the top five nationalities.

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ETHE LIST

Essential media to consume ahead of any trip to a polar region By Katie Burton

BOOK: n To the Edges of the Earth by Edward J. Larson (March 2018) 1909 was a momentous year in the field of polar exploration. The extreme tips of the world (the North Pole, South Pole and the so called ‘third pole’, the pole of altitude, located in the Himalayas), lay waiting to be explored. In the space of a year, US explorers Robert Peary and Matthew Henson reached the North Pole; British naval officer Ernest Shackleton set a new ‘furthest south’ record, and the Italian Duke of the Abruzzi attempted to scale the world’s second highest mountain, setting a new altitude record of 24,600 feet. Pulitzer Prize-winning historian, Edward J Larson, weaves these stories into one momentous tale of derringdo. By giving full voice to the voyagers’ remarkable bravery, as well as their relentless pursuit of glory, he highlights the crucial role that strong personalities play in great explorers. condemned comparisons between penguins and humans. Nevertheless, as they march across one of the world’s toughest environments and huddle together for warmth, there’s something incomparably cute about these wonderful birds.

PHOTO COLLECTION: n Francesco Bosso: Last Diamonds (Feb 2018) Inspired by the plight of the frozen seas off the coast of Greenland, Italian photographer Francesco Bosso created this collection of black-and-white photographs, each a portrait of an iceberg. Shot using a traditional analogue technique, Bosso’s photos are beautiful but haunting, each iceberg a unique and twisted formation against an inky black sea and grey scudding sky. Though the icebergs are not, of course, really the last of their kind, Bosso’s portrayal of each structure as a lonely, isolated thing, serves to ram home his message that the Arctic is fragile and failing.

MUSIC: n Ross Sea Suites and other Antarctic Tone Poems by Valmar Kurol and Michael Stibor (Oct 2016) In 1983, the famous Greek composer Vangelis composed the soundtrack to the Japanese film Antarctica, using his distinctive electronic sound to conjure the cold, the loneliness and the beauty of the continent. This new album, a collaboration between artist and musician Valmar Kurol

and Canadian composer, Michael Stibor, picks up where Vangelis left off. Inspired by Kurol’s trip to West Antarctica in 2015, each track celebrates the sights he encountered, starting with the Ross Sea, a deep bay in the Southern Ocean and one of the few seas left relativity untouched by human activity. The music is created using synthesisers and guitars and the sound is meditative and often slightly eerie. Music to close your eyes to and imagine another world.

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SILVERSEAE

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Navigating the coast of Kimberley in Australia

Journey of a Lifetime The most dramatic and remote locations on Earth are waiting to be discovered and no method gets you closer than an expedition cruise

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here are hundreds of countries in the world. And in every city, town and village, a slice of life is taking place. Fast and slow paced cultures fuse to weave an amazing tapestry of everyday living. The heady scents of the markets in Mumbai, the sound of children laughing as they jump off canoes in Papua New Guinea, the thrilling uncertainty of tracking gorillas at dawn in Uganda… from the highest mountains to the deepest rivers, our planet holds secrets that beg to be explored. Nothing can rival the wonder of our world. That authentic beauty is all around us. Our curious minds propel us to peel off the superficial layers so we can see what happens when we go deeper than ever before into each new experience. Expedition cruising can reveal the plethora of distinctions that turn each destination into an adventure, and deliver them with respect and in superlative comfort. We will never stop searching for the unique, the bold, the bizarre and the beautiful. You can be secure in the knowledge that the flame of our explorer’s spirit will never go out. Because at the end of the day, we are all travellers, itching with wanderlust, eager to discover what is still left out there. EXPEDITIONS OF A LIFETIME We search the world to find the best. But there’s still room for more. Ten years ago we decided to do the impossible. We took our experience in travel and created an expedition product so singular that no competition even comes near it. Silversea Expeditions is designed to bring passengers the most immersive and memorable of luxury travel experiences. Silversea Expeditions give access to some of the most remote destinations of the planet. Destinations that have been scouted and selected by our team of experts for their unique mix of extraordinary natural beauty, spectacular wildlife and unspoiled local culture. These off the grid destinations are so secluded that even your GPS will not be able to find them. Have you not dreamed of following in the footsteps of great explorers such as Scott, Fiennes and Shackleton and being among the lucky few to set foot on the great white continent of Antarctica? Or imagined the sweeping savannahs, millennia of history and elusive wildlife of Africa and its fabled west coast? Or maybe you yearn for the living museum of evolution that is the Galapagos? The wilds of the Arctic, the Russian Far East and Alaska beckon, the rugged coasts of Australia’s Kimberley call and after this, travel will never seem the same. Incomparable to anything you have ever experienced before, Silversea Expeditions is world exploration for travellers, not tourists. n For more call 0207 340 0700 or visit silversea.com 10 • EXPEDITIONS

Getting in close to penguins in Antarctica

Encountering wild bears in Alaska

The South Pacific offers scenes of stunning beauty

The ancient city of Bagan in Myanmar EXPEDITIONS â&#x20AC;¢ 11

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MEET OUR FLEET

The Silver Galapagos is a 100-passenger cruiser that can take you to the most isolated place on Earth

With a fleet of four superlative expedition ships, Silversea is the leader in ultra-luxury expedition voyages. From the newly refurbished Silver Cloud to the 100-passenger Silver Galapagos, our ships offer a comfort rarely seen in expedition cruising. The small size of even our largest ship allows for quick access to those faraway places that can only be reached by sea. Expect only the very best aboard and ashore: n All-suite accommodation, all with ocean-view and butler service n Fine dining in multiple venues, room-service, select wine, spirits and soft drinks throughout the ship n Highly-qualified Expedition Team with experts in multiple fields n Excursions and ashore activities, including Zodiac exploration, led by the Expedition Team and fully complimentary n Onboard lectures, seminars and daily briefings on every visited destination n Complimentary WiFi

MEET CONRAD COMBRINK, DIRECTOR OF EXPEDITION CRUISING ‘When I hear people say that there are no blank spaces left on the map, no uncharted seas or shores to discover, nothing new to explore, I can’t believe it. Our planet is simply amazing. I have dedicated the past 20 years to curating extraordinary cruises and if there’s one thing that’s music to my ears, it’s when our travellers ask for more; more remote, more immersive, more awe-inspiring, more adventurous. My team and I have researched the most authentic cultural experiences and fascinating historical sites. We have sought out wonders of man and nature, and scouted the most idyllic unspoiled beauty spots. Leaving the tourist trail far 12 • EXPEDITIONS

behind, these unique journeys have been carefully designed to bring you the rarest pearls the world has to offer. All of this, of course, is delivered with the same high level of comfort and quality you’ve come to expect from Silversea. I believe there’s no destination on Earth that is beyond the reach of luxury travel and it’s my daily challenge to prove it by pioneering ever more adventurous expeditions without sacrificing the fine dining, firstrate entertainment and outstanding accommodation that make Silversea cruises so indulgent and special. So let’s embark on a new journey… and this time let’s do more!’ n

CAPTURE AUTHENTIC BEAUTY

LET US TAKE YOU CLOSER TO THE UNEXPECTED DELIGHTS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. For more information or to book please call reservations on 0207 340 0700, visit silversea.com or contact your travel agent.

#ThisIsSilversea

BOOK BY 31 JULY 2018

INCLUDES

ECONOMY ROUNDTRIP FLIGHTS

1 NIGHT PRE AND POST HOTEL

ALL TRANSFERS BETWEEN AIRPORT, HOTEL AND SHIP

Visit Silversea.com/terms-and-conditions for complete Terms and Conditions.

HURTIGRUTENE

Lighting the

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North

Research is underway into the aurora to better understand Earth’s geomagnetic substorms

It’s a phenomenon that has captivated generations of travellers, as well as one that has inspired countless myths and legends. With Hurtigruten, you can get closer to the Aurora Borealis than ever before

he Northern Lights, otherwise known as Aurora Borealis, are most commonly seen in the Arctic, usually within a 2,500km radius around the North Pole. The season to witness the majestic light show runs from October through to March when the nights are longer, therefore offering greater opportunities to experience the lights in action. The phenomenon occurs when electrically charged particles from the sun’s outer atmosphere collide with the oxygen and nitrogen in Earth’s upper atmosphere. The resulting disruption to Earth’s magnetic field produces the aurora we see above us. The Northern Lights can appear in many different forms of light. From scattered patches of diffuse glimmers, to full arcs, bands, beams and rippling curtains. Like snowflakes, no two aurora sightings are exactly the same and the length duration can differ. When people witness the lights, the most common colour they will see is green, highlighting that oxygen is present. If you see lilac, purple or deep red then nitrogen is present – the occurrence of these colours is a very rare experience. According to myths, Norse legend states that the Northern Lights form the Bifrost Bridge – the rainbow bridge that connects Asgard (the realm of the gods) with Midgard (the human realm). Others theorists, believe the lights are the reflections of the Valkyrie, the female warriors judging who will enter the realm of Valhalla. Whether you believe in science or myths, there’s no doubt that you’ll be captivated by the aurora. EXPEDITIONS • 15

HURTIGRUTENE

Norway offers some of the best views of the Northern Lights

NORWAY FOR THE NORTHERN LIGHTS Norway is one of the best destinations in the world to experience the Northern Lights from sea or land. The northern part of the country lies directly beneath the Auroral Zone, an area of consistent auroral activity so there are great opportunities to experience the lights in action the further north you travel. The longer hours of darkness and clear skies in the winter help to form the perfect backdrop for Norway’s dramatic Northern Lights. In Northern Norway, above the Arctic Circle and beyond Bodo, late November to late January is when night rules the land for 24 hours which means the aurora can appear anytime, multiple times throughout the day. Aside from indulging in the Northern Lights, visitors to Norway can experience delicious local cuisine and delicacies, venture around quaint towns and villages and meet the locals, explore the historic roots of the country and discover the beautiful coastlines and fjords. n 16 • EXPEDITIONS

WHY CHOOSE HURTIGRUTEN?

With 125 years’ experience sailing beneath the Northern Lights along the Norwegian coast, Hurtigruten is the perfect choice for those wishing to experience the natural light phenomena of the Northern Lights. From the convenience of the observation deck, guests have a front-seat view of the lights, with no hidden fees to pay to see them. On-board announcements also ensure you don’t miss a single sighting no matter the time of night, while low-level lighting on-board ensures your viewing experience isn’t compromised. It’s just you and the Arctic aurora for as often and for as long as they appear in the sky. With a fleet of 12 ships and a wide variety of sailings throughout the season, including an Astronomy Voyage with leading Aurora Borealis experts, guests are spoilt for choice when it comes to selecting the right voyage. Hurtigruten is still the only company able to offer its famous Northern Lights Promise. This unique offering promises guests who embark on the 12-day Classic Round Voyage or Astronomy Voyage a free six or seven-day voyage if Aurora Borealis fails to make an appearance during the journey. The Northern Lights Promise is valid for departures from 1 October 2018 until the end of March 2019. Adventure-seekers can customise their trip by choosing an array of authentic adventurous excursions in Norway and on-board Expedition teams enhance the guest experience, offering insights and knowledge on the local history, geology and biology on- and off-board. n For more call 020 3811 7599 or visit www.hurtigruten.co.uk

We’ll give you a free 6 or 7-day voyage if the Northern Lights don’t occur on your 12-day voyage with us along the beautiful Norwegian coast

NORTHERN LIGHTS PROMISE Hurtigruten has been sailing under Norway’s Northern Lights since 1893. No one knows them like we do. On a journey with us, the Aurora Borealis comes to you. Our ships sail in the Arctic Circle in Norway, directly under the Auroral Zone. As we visit 34 charming ports northbound and southbound, get a front-seat view of the lights for free, for as often and for as long as they appear. CALL 0203 131 0645 | VISIT WWW.HURTIGRUTEN.CO.UK | CONTACT YOUR LOCAL TRAVEL AGENT Northern Lights Promise is valid on all 12-day Norway coastal voyages from 1 October – 31 March. Full terms and conditions apply. Please see website for details. From prices quoted are in GBP and are per person, based on full occupancy of an inside two-berth cabin, on a full-board basis. Single supplements may apply. Cabins and excursions are subject to availability. Hurtigruten operates a flexible pricing system and prices are capacity controlled, correct at time of booking. Not included: international flights, travel insurance, luggage handling, optional excursions or gratuities. Flights booked with Hurtigruten are economy, ATOL protected (ATOL 3584), and include all current taxes and charges. All itineraries are subject to change due to local conditions. See website for the full itinerary. Full terms and conditions apply to the Northern Lights Promise. See online for details. Full booking terms and conditions available online at www.hurtigruten.co.uk.

12-DAY CLASSIC ROUND VOYAGE INCLUDING FULL BOARD FROM

£967 PP

GALLERY

KINGS OF THE DEEP

No sight is more rewarding while on an expedition cruise than that of a whale. Whether breaching the surface or swimming just below, getting up close with your cameras to one of these majestic creatures serves as a potent reminder of how awe-inspiring life at sea can become

n A humpback whale with calf (Image: Napong Suttivilai)

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n A pod of short finned pilot whales near the surface in northwestern Mauritius (Image: Wildest Animal)

n A whale breaching near icebergs in the Antarctic (Image: Alexey Suloev)

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n The biggest predators in the world, a pod of sperm whales swimming in polar waters (Image: Willyam Bradberry)

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n Beluga (or white) whales diving deep in the Arctic region (Image: John Wollwerth)

n A blue whale swimming just under the surface of the North Atlantic (Image: Chase Dekker)

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n A humpback whale jumping out of the water (Image: Nico Faramaz)

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The Essence of the Arctic If your goal is to discover the essentials of the Arctic, Spitsbergen is the best destination. Among the numerous opportunities are close encounters with polar bears, walruses, and Arctic birdlife, expert-led trekking on Arctic tundra and Zodiac cruises to magnificent bird cliffs

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Spitsbergen translates literally as ‘pointed mountains’

A REALM OF ARCTIC WILDLIFE Participate in an Arctic wildlife photo-safari in continuous polar daylight. By land and sea we encounter a wealth of animals – including polar bears, walrus, Arctic fox, reindeer and a variety of whales and seals – in one of the High Arctic’s most pristine and protected environments. POLAR BEARS Svalbard boasts one of the Arctic’s highest concentrations of polar bears. They are the world’s largest land carnivores and have become a symbol of the imperilled Arctic wilderness. This is one of the best places in the world to view polar bears hunting in their preferred habitat: the pack ice.

HIGH ARCTIC WILDERNESS Immerse yourself in incredible Arctic scenery. Deep fjords and narrow channels are flanked by jagged snowy mountain peaks, which gave Spitsbergen its name (translated as ‘pointed mountains’). Immense tidewater glaciers calve icebergs into turquoise waters. On ice floes and fast ice, several species of seals watch vigilantly for polar bears. Fields of flowering tundra are home to grazing reindeer and playful Arctic fox. The whole area is alive with migratory birds – including numerous rare species – taking advantage of summer’s fecundity in 24-hour daylight. Kayaking gets you closer to the action

POSEIDON’S KAYAK CLUB The islands and fjords of Spitsbergen closely guard some of the world’s most magical and unique paddling opportunities. Join us for unscripted kayaking adventures as we explore remote waters that very few paddlers have experienced before.

Polar bears are fearsome predators but also high-profile symbols of how climate change is affecting the Arctic

VOYAGE ABOARD THE SEA SPIRIT No doubt Arctic expedition cruising is all about the destination. However, your experience depends greatly on your vessel. Poseidon Expeditions’ Sea Spirit offers a balance between luxury and expedition. The ship’s small size gives her advantages which are of prime importance and she goes where other ships cannot follow, navigating into protected channels and bays that are out of bounds to larger vessels. Sea Spirit sets herself apart by providing a level of comfort and luxury not usually found on a ship of her size. Travellers are impressed with the size of the staterooms and thoughtful amenities throughout, not to mention the superior cuisine and personalised attention from the crew. Enjoy an authentic and exciting adventure as well as an easy-going expeditionary atmosphere on board. Venture into true Arctic wilderness in comfort you don’t expect to find in high polar latitudes. n n For more call 020 3369 0020 or visit poseidonexpeditions.com

The Sea Spirit can take 114 passengers to the most breathtaking of locations EXPEDITIONS • 25

HAPAG-LLOYD CRUISES

A WORLD OF E X P L O R AT I O N

For those travellers with a pioneering spirit, who have always dreamed of exploring some of the untouched more remote regions of the world, inaccessible to many, Hapag-Lloyd Cruises can certainly satisfy that thirst for adventure

MARINA The marina is the convenient starting point for a range of activities: board one of 17 Zodiacs for thrilling excursions or use the marina as your comfortable base for a variety of warm-water sports – kayaks, stand-up paddle boards and snorkelling equipment are available to use

he Hamburg-based cruise line – a subsidiary of the TUI group – is renowned as one of Germany’s foremost providers of both luxury and expedition cruises. Currently expanding its fleet of four ships – each with their own individual personality – and developing its role in the international marketplace, two, small new-builds are now under construction. Both these identical vessels are to be positioned in the five-star expedition segment. However, the HANSEATIC inspiration will serve the Englishspeaking markets. Reinforcing the success story of the cruise line’s existing ship HANSEATIC and retaining the wellknown brand name, HANSEATIC inspiration will launch in October 2019, looking to achieve five-star standards. With a capacity of just 230 guests – 199 on Antarctica cruises – the ship will be fitted with cuttingedge equipment and environmental technology. 26 • EXPEDITIONS

OCEAN ACADEMY The Ocean Academy allows you to experience science however you desire. You can use the large media wall and interactive poster to display fascinating information on a wide range of disciplines whenever you like. Binoculars allow you to delve deep into the wonders of our planet

MAIN RESTAURANT, SPECIALITY RESTAURANT AND BISTRO RESTAURANT Our three spacious restaurants pamper our guests with a wide selection of cuisine and free choice of seating. With around 400 seats in total (main restaurant with 178 seats, speciality restaurant with 44 seats, Bistro Restaurant with 84 indoor and around 100 outdoor seats), you can pick a new favourite spot every day

SPA AREA A 215m2/2,314ft2 light-filled spa complex, with an outdoor area of 25m2/269ft2 and a view of the open sea - the new spa area leaves no wish unfulfilled.

GLASS BALCONIES Two extendible glass-floored balconies on the Sun Deck provide a unique feeling of floating over the ocean

OBSERVATION DECK AND LOUNGE The terraced Observation Deck offers the best views as well as permanently mounted binoculars. Located one deck lower, the Observation Lounge brings the excitement indoors with its 180-degree panoramic view

HanseAtrium The central HanseAtrium can be used for many different activities; its cutting-edge technology makes it suitable for presentations and expert lectures as well as intensive precaps and recaps. The bar is the perfect place for a relaxing evening chat

A NEW EXPEDITION CLASS Hapag-Lloyd Cruises is committed to delivering an exciting experience, above passengers’ expectations, exploring magical, untouched regions, aboard small ships on spectacular routes. As well as the comfort and luxuriousness of the state-of-the-art HANSEATIC inspiration, the ship will take guests on personal expeditions to authentic, natural spectacles of the world. With PC6, the highest ice class designation for passenger ships, HANSEATIC inspiration will cruise safely in the European summer to the polar regions but also in the European spring to warmer destinations such as the Amazon and in the European autumn and winter to the Chilean fjords, the Azores and Cape Verde. Hapag-Lloyd Cruise’s commitment to respecting the environment and sustainability, treating nature with respect, will remain unchanged. Guests will feel for themselves the excitement of expeditions when taking part in numerous Zodiac rides and landings ashore. The 17 Zodiacs, some of which will have eco-friendly, electric drive systems, will make it possible to land in otherwise inaccessible expedition areas that do not have landing stages; and there will also be a marina at the stern for watersport activities including kayaking and stand-up paddling. With its unique design, this cutting-edge expedition vessel has been ‘inspired by nature’, reflected in the natural colours, tones, light and shapes adopted in the harmonious concept throughout the ship. A particularly innovative feature are the extendable glass balconies on the Sun Deck, when guests will feel like they are floating above the water; and in the 120 spacious, outside suites and cabins – with six different types to choose from – large, panoramic windows and balconies enable guests to be close to nature. Guests can even stand on >

HANSEATIC inspiration Built: VARD Group AS, Norway Category: 5-star service BOW TOUR The new deck track at the bow puts you in the front row for wildlife sightings

Maiden voyage: 14 October, 2019 from Antwerp, Belgium to Tenerife Capacity: 230 (199 for Antarctica cruises) Decks: 7 Restaurants: 3 Crew: 175 On-board language: English/German EXPEDITIONS • 27

HAPAG-LLOYD CRUISES

< the deck track on the bow of the

ship – front row seats for viewing natural wonders, even closer than the Captain himself! Relaxing on board after exhilarating outdoor experiences, the spa, beauty and fitness area await; an observation deck and lounge; an interactive ‘Ocean Academy’; and there are three first-class restaurants to choose from. THE CALL OF ADVENTURE In its first 2019-2020 season, HANSEATIC inspiration will operate 22 voyages – guests can choose from short, four-night cruises to the Frisian Islands, to the longer, 20-night expedition trips to the Arctic and Antarctica. Her maiden call will be in Northern Europe, from Antwerp in Belgium, setting sail for 15 nights, cruising via France, the Channel Islands, Spain and Portugal to Tenerife. From here one of the first HANSEATIC inspiration expeditions will cruise from Cape Verde’s fertile volcanic cones across the Atlantic to the Caribbean, arriving in Bridgetown 16 nights’ later. By mid-November 2019, expeditions to South and Central America will begin. White sandy beaches and wild jungles full of diverse species and fascinating cultures can all be enjoyed on this trip from Bridgetown to Callao in Peru. A highlight is the daytime traverse of the historic Panama Canal. Opened over 100 years ago it is the world’s most important waterway, connecting the Atlantic Ocean with the Pacific. Before disembarkation in Callao, Lima, in the Gulf of San Miguel, local boats will take passengers to the settlements of the Embera Indians and Utria National Park, part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The next itinerary is an 18-night expedition of the Chilean Fjords ending in Ushuaia, Argentina. The land of a thousand contrasts, with interplay between volcanoes, glittering glaciers and relics of ancient civilisations – memories of a lifetime are made of this. 28 • EXPEDITIONS

Sunset over the Brazilian rainforest paints an impressive spectacle Toucans are just one of more than 1,000 species of birds in the Amazon

INTO THE AMAZON Spring 2020 will see HANSEATIC inspiration positioned in warmer waters, beginning with an 18-night trip from Buenos Aires to Belem. Inspired by the feeling of South American zest for life, the Brazilian itinerary will explore the heritage of the conquistadors on this journey between the Atlantic rainforest and Brazil’s colonial coast. The itinerary features fascinating insights into the city of Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital, with its majestic buildings and historical significance; additionally, in contrast, visiting islands en route with their idyllic, white sand The tufted capuchin also calles the Amazon home

bays and pools, waterfalls, mangrove and rain forests. Amazonian adventures await next when HANSEATIC inspiration sails for 17 nights upstream from Belem to Iquitos; and then again downstream from Iquitos to Belem. Only small ships can navigate these voyages. Lush plant life, exotic creatures, dense jungle and untouched native villages – the world of the Amazon is best described in superlatives – no river is as long and no rainforest as diverse. Trips on the Zodiacs will bring frequent, intensive moments, as beautiful side branches with a pristine

jungle backdrop draw visitors under their spell. Home to more than 1,000 species of bird, the tropical air rings with the calls of toucans, yellow-headed caracaras and saffron finches. A daytime passage through the Breves Channels reveals greenery that shades the shore, seemingly close enough to touch. In contrast when calling in Manaus, past and present meet in the magnificent jungle metropolis. The city’s history and opera house bear witness to when this former global centre of rubber production made its fortune, with modern glass facades sitting alongside classical and art nouveau buildings. Zodiacs take guests closer to nature than ever before

EXPEDITIONS • 29

HAPAG-LLOYD CRUISES

Toronto is the starting point for a tour of the Great Lakes of North America

THE GREAT LAKES After almost a decade, Hapag-Lloyd Cruises is returning to the Great Lakes of North America with the HANSEATIC inspiration. The ship’s retractable bridge wing makes it possible for to pass through the eight narrow locks of the Welland Canal, while on the journey from Toronto via Lake Ontario. Like an eighth world ocean in the forests of North America, the hardto-access Great Lakes are a natural paradise. Ports of call on this 14-night cruise include Windsor and Detroit, renowned as where classic vehicles such as the Ford Mustang were once produced, and the fishing town of Tobermory on the Georgian Bay. Through the seldom-travelled Lake Superior, the expedition takes guests to Thunder Bay and on to Mackinac Island and Lake Michigan. 30 • EXPEDITIONS

HANSEATIC inspiration will then return from Chicago on a 14-night cruise to Toronto. Guests will arrive back home with enchanting memories of travelling across eight US states. July 2020 sees HANSEATIC inspiration leave Toronto on a 20-night spectacular expedition between Canadian cities and the wilderness of North America to Greenland. A highlight is a passage through the St Lawrence River which will bring the ship to Norris Point in Newfoundland. Reaching Labrador and leaving civilisation behind, the remote landscape offers impressive scenery and culture. Between July and September HANSEATIC inspiration is offering three itineraries from Kangerlussuaq in Western Greenland, visiting Northwest Greenland, the Canadian Arctic, East Greenland and Disko Bay. Bizarre ice

formations, shimmering blue light and deep fjords – the beauty of the Arctic is breathtaking. Fascinating and extreme, the Arctic is home to Arctic foxes, whales, seals, polar bears and musk oxen. Robust zodiacs and well-versed lecturers are all on hand to bring guests right up close to this extraordinary region; and all the ship’s crew members are extremely competent in polar conditions, with years of experience gained working in this part of the world. Crossing from Kangerlussuaq to Hamburg, HANSEATIC inspiration’s first season will end with a short, fournight, Frisian Island cruise along the German North Sea coast, calling at Sylt, Borkum and Helgoland before finally returning home to Hamburg. n n For more call 08000 513829 or visit www.hl-cruises.com

HANSEATIC inspiration

THE NEW EXPEDITION CLASS

Savoir vivre meets untouched wilderness

• The HANSEATIC inspiration is suited to both polar and tropical waters • Maximum passenger capacity: 230 guests (199 on Antarctic cruises) • Only outside cabins and suites, majority with private balcony/ French balcony • Two extendible glass-floored balconies on the Sun Deck • Cutting-edge equipment and environmental technology

Exciting, diverse, surprising: between Canadian cities and the wilderness of North America and Greenland, this expedition will shed a whole new light on your summer.

Expedition Labrador, Hudson Strait and Greenland From Toronto to Kangerlussuaq 1 Jul – 21 Jul 2020, 20 days, cruise INS2013 Starting from £ 11,267 per person in an Outside Cabin, Cat. 1, double occ., incl. charter flight Kangerlussuaq – Dusseldorf and incl. 5 % early booking discount until 30 Nov 2019 Additional savings: € 200 on-board beverage credit per person

CANADA

ds on St Sugluk Bay ra it Diana Island Akpatok Island

unch Ship la 019 b o er 2 in Oct

LABRADOR Hopedale Rigolet Gulf of St. Lawrence Tadoussac Montreal Toronto

Red Bay

GREENLAND Qeqertarsuaq Ilulissat Disko Bay Sisimiut Kangerlussuaq Monumental Island

LABRADOR SEA

Battle Harbour

Norris Point NEWFOUNDLAND

St. Lawrence River Lake Ontario

Advice and bookings at your travel agency or at Hapag-Lloyd Kreuzfahrten GmbH, Ballindamm 25, 20095 Hamburg, Germany, hl-cruises.com, service@hl-cruises.com Free phone 08000 513829

AURORA EXPEDITIONSE

A GUIDE TO ADVENTURE Whether admiring ice floes in the Antarctic or spotting wildlife in Svalbard, Australian-owned polar expedition specialists, Aurora Expeditions, bring you everything you need to know about making the most of your time at sea

32 â&#x20AC;¢ EXPEDITIONS

The Greg Mortimer sports a revolutionary bow for easier sailing (ship image is artist’s impression and may vary)

CHOOSING YOUR ANTARCTIC SHIP When you’re heading on a voyage to the frozen continent of Antarctica, you want to be sure you’re choosing the best possible ship to suit your needs. Before you book, consider the following... Size of the ship There are restrictions on how many passengers can land in Antarctica at any one time. Carrying just 120 passengers to the polar regions, Aurora Expeditions’ new, purpose-built vessel, the Greg Mortimer, means you’ll never have to wait your turn for a shore landing. ●

Cutting-edge technology On a journey to some of the most remote destinations in the world, you’ll want the best in nautical innovation. The Greg Mortimer is the first expedition vessel to feature the ground-breaking X-BOW®, designed to make sailing smoother. Fold-out, hydraulic viewing platforms provide a unique vantage point for wildlife spotting and virtual anchoring holds the ship in place for landings without the use of heavy chains and anchors, protecting the vulnerable environments. ●

Facilities on board With two to three landings daily, you won’t spend a lot of time onboard the Greg Mortimer. But when you are, you’ll have access to observation lounges, lectures from a world-class expedition team, a fully-equipped wellness centre and more. Rest up in spacious and comfortable cabins or relax on your private balcony. ●

ANTARCTIC SEASONALITY You may know that the best time to visit Antarctica is in the Austral summer, but there’s also a lot of seasonal variation in these months when it comes to the region’s wildlife. So, what will you experience at each point in the season? EXPEDITIONS • 33

AURORA EXPEDITIONSE

Spring (November to early December) There’s still a feel of ‘deep Antarctica’ with large sections of pack and fast ice floating on the ocean’s surface. Sensing the changing season birds such as wandering albatrosses and various penguin species, along with seals begin their courtship rituals/dances. ●

Midsummer (December to early February) Penguins parent chicks, skuas feed on chicks and elephant seals suckle pups. This is also when humpback whales arrive in search of prime feeding conditions, and we witness their ‘bubble feeding’. ●

Late summer (Mid-February to late March) It’s the new arrivals’ time to test out their new environment. On South Georgian beaches, hundreds of fur seal pups will be play-fighting and learning to swim. For the fledgeling penguin chicks, it’s time to run the same gauntlet as their parents – past leopard seals in the throes of a late summer courtship. The shorter days end with spectacular sunsets. ●

Arctic foxes can be a playful sight in Svalbard

WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES IN SVALBARD An Arctic adventure to the Svalbard archipelago with Aurora Expeditions’ on the Greg Mortimer offers a smorgasbord of wildlife opportunities… Watch walrus haul out at Kapp Lee Once hunted almost to the point of extinction, today you can see great numbers of these toothy giants lazing out on the shore enjoying the long Arctic days. ●

Photograph Svalbard reindeer An Arctic icon, you can spot these hardy, furry creatures throughout the Svalbard archipelago, roaming in small groups. A protected animal since 1925, there are about 10,000 reindeer left in the wild. ●

Spot playful Arctic foxes If you keep your eyes peeled, you may spot these elusive creatures. Cunning hunters, your best chance of seeing one is underneath a bird’s nest or following polar bears in pursuit of their leftovers! ●

See the king of the Arctic, the polar bear Saving the best for last – the Arctic’s top predator weighs in at over half a tonne and can be spotted hunting seals out on the pack ice. Seeing one of these incredible animals in the wild is an extraordinary experience that stay with you long after you step off the Greg Mortimer. ●

34 • EXPEDITIONS

ADVENTURES IN THE POLAR REGIONS An adventure to the polar regions doesn’t have to end with the journey! Aurora offers a range of adrenaline-inducing options to your polar adventure... Sea kayaking Paddle through brash ice and past wildlife in both Antarctica and the Arctic. One of the most popular activity options, you’ll need to get in early to secure your place on this unforgettable experience. ●

Polar snorkelling Jump right in (quite literally!) with this bragworthy activity in Antarctica and the Arctic. Ideal for beginners, a team of experts shows you how to safely explore the hidden world under the ice. ●

The impressive polar bear can weigh over half a tonne

Polar snorkelling is a popular, exciting activity A walrus at Kapp Lee in the Arctic

Climbing Whether it’s conquering the Antarctic Peninsula’s icy slopes or Greenland’s rocky peaks; avid climbers will feel on top of the world. For the truly ambitious, Aurora Expeditions’ offers the exclusive opportunity to retrace Shackleton’s footsteps on a three-day South Georgia Alpine Crossing. ●

Antarctic camping How does falling asleep on the ice to the sounds of cracking ice and bustling wildlife sound? You can roll out a sleeping bag on select voyages to Antarctica for an unforgettable night out. ●

EXPEDITIONS • 35

AURORA EXPEDITIONSE

Stromness played a critical part in the rescue of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Endurance expedition

PHOTOGRAPHING SOUTH GEORGIA Between the unbelievable wildlife and the striking historic relics, South Georgia is a photographer’s paradise. Here’s the inside scoop on what to aim your camera at when you travel there... King penguins at Salisbury Plain Salisbury Plain is a bustling haven of king penguins, where a breeding colony can number over 100,000 penguins. It’s almost impossible to get a bad shot of these endearing creatures. ●

Seals at Gold Harbour Elephant seals love to frolic in the waters of Gold Harbour to a backdrop of thousands of king penguins – you may even witness two imposing males sizing each other up! At the other end of the scale, playful adolescent fur seals will be testing the water, their curiosity making them perfect photography fodder. ●

Whaling ruins at Stromness An ex-whaling station site, Stromness is an eerie shell of its former self. The shore is strewn with abandoned buildings and massive propellers marooned on the stony ground. Established in 1907, Stromness’ starkly striking aesthetic can make for some great photos. n ●

n For more information call 0 808 189 2005 or visit www.auroraexpeditions.co.uk 36 • EXPEDITIONS

Elephant seals facing off in Gold Harbour

PICK YOUR POLAR PERK

Book today and receive £880 credit per person! *

Book on select 2019/20 Greg Mortimer voyages and redeem your polar perk: Polar Activities 

Pre or Post Accommodation



Pre or Post Tours



Onboard Credit

The Greg Mortimer NEW ship sailing in 2019

Over 25 years of experience to the Polar Regions • Australian Owned • Small Groups, Small Ships Multiple Daily Excursions • Expert Expedition Team • Close Up Wildlife Encounters For more information or to order our latest brochure contact Aurora Expeditions on: 0808 189 2005 | info@auroraexpeditions.co.uk | auroraexpeditions.co.uk Or contact your ATAS accredited Travel Agent *Offer is available on new bookings only and must be booked between 1 May and 31 July 2018. Promotion is subject to availability & capacity controlled. Polar Perk Credits can be used toward pre or post voyage hotel accommodation booked through Aurora Travel Agent Services, as well as voyage activities such as kayaking, snorkelling or diving and on-board charges such as bar credit, laundry, ship shop, see website for full details. The promotion is not available in conjunction with any other offer and is not redeemable for cash. Normal booking terms and conditions apply. A signed booking form and US$2,500 deposit per person must be made within 7 days* of reserved berth/s to confirm the booking. Prices are correct at time of print. Other terms and conditions apply. See www.auroraexpeditiopns.co.uk for more details.

A unique selection of dedicated wildlife cruises Galápagos Islands Several annual departures - 13/20 days - from £5,095

Alaska - Prince William Sound May - 14 days - from £8,895

Maldives - Mantas, Dolphins & Coral Reefs February - 10 days - from £4,095

Norway - Orcas, Humpbacks & Northern Lights January - 9 days - from £2,895

Antarctica, the Falklands & South Georgia January - 23 days - from £13,995

Baja California - Whale Watching February & March - 14 days - from £5,995

Spitsbergen Wildlife Cruise June - 11 days - from £4,995

Amazon Wildlife Cruise May, June & August - 10 days - from £4,295

Raja Ampat - Cruising through Paradise March - 14 days - from £6,995

Western Canada - Spirit Bears & Grizzlies September - 10 days - from £5,395

Indonesia - Bali to Komodo September & October - 13 days - from £5,895

The Solomon Islands December - 15 days - from £8,395

Scotland - St. Kilda & the Hebrides May - 7 days - from £1,795

India - the Brahmaputra March & December - 14 days - from £3,995

For our brochure, or more information, call our wildlife travel experts

01962 733051

www.naturetrek.co.uk

Naturetrek, Mingledown Barn, Wolf’s Lane, Chawton, Hampshire GU34 3HJ

GALÁPAGOS

Blue-footed boobies today number less than 6,400 on the Galápagos

BIRD LIFE The main things that strike the 200,000 people that visit the Galápagos Islands each year are the abundance and tameness of the birds. This string of 230 volcanic islands, scattered across the equator about 1,000km west of the South American continent, is a bird-watcher’s paradise. Josef Litt, whose definitive guidebook to the archipelago was published this year, introduces us to the key species... EXPEDITIONS • 39

GALÁPAGOS

BOOBIES The name booby derives from bobo which is Spanish for a clown or fool, and there are three species of booby that make the Galápagos their home. All nest on the coastline, often close to each other. Their fishing habits differ, however. Blue-footed boobies fish inshore, the Nazca boobies fish further out but still within the islands’ waters, and red-footed boobies prefer to fish far out to sea. As the name suggests, the blue-footed boobies (Sula nebouxii) are easily recognisable by their distinctive bright blue feet. The female is slightly larger than the male and can measure up to 90cm long with a wingspan of up to 1.5m. The boobies have distinctively yellow eyes that are placed on either side of their bill and are oriented towards the front. This gives them excellent binocular vision needed for plunge-diving for fish. They can dive from as high as 100m and can hit the water at speeds in excess of 100kph, diving to depths of 25m. To protect their brains from the impact and water pressure, a booby’s skull contains air sacks, and such are the depths they’ll reach, any caught prey is usually eaten while the bird is still underwater. The distinctive colour of the webbed feet comes from carotenoids in their fresh fish diet. Without such fish, the birds lose the colour in days, however it returns within hours of eating, important as individuals with vivid blue feet are preferred as mating partners. The population of blue-footed boobies on the Galápagos is in decline, probably caused by a lack of sardines, an important part of their diet. The 1960s saw 20,000 breeding birds on the archipelago, while the estimated population in 2012 was a mere 6,400. The red-footed booby (or Sula sula) is the smallest member of the family at about 70cm in length and with a wingspan of up to one metre. In the Galápagos, they nest on Genovesa, Darwin, Wolf, San Cristóbal, Seymour Norte and Gardner near Floreana. The Galápagos hawk limits its distribution throughout the archipelago. Since the red-footed boobies leave their young alone in their nests for more than ten hours a day during foraging trips to the open sea, the young chicks become easy prey for the hawks. Juvenile boobies appear to be playful, engaging in an unusual communal game observed by scientists on Wolf Island. The game always starts high in the air where one of the youngsters drops a feather, a leaf, a twig or something similar into a cloud of about one hundred birds below. The bird who catches the ‘toy’ carries it upwards and drops it again into the flock. The game continues until the ‘toy’ falls to the ground, or the wind carries the flock out to sea. The Nazca booby (Sula granti), with a glossy, white plumage, black feathers on its wings and tail, and black 40 • EXPEDITIONS

The red-footed booby is the smallest of the booby family

mask, certainly looks less comical than its blue-footed cousin. The Nazcas are slightly larger than the bluefoots and are the largest of the three booby species living on the islands. Their population is currently estimated to be between 25,000 to 50,000 breeding pairs. The bill of the female is rather a paler yellow than the bill of a male. In 2011, Dave Anderson, a professor of biology at Wake Forest University, North Carolina, published a paper describing the cycle of violence in the behaviour of Nazca boobies. Birds that do not find a breeding partner for the season become pretty nasty. They wander through the colony in search of an unattended nest with a chick inside. In a third of such encounters, the adult will behave well, preening the chick and perhaps presenting it with small gifts such as feathers, pebbles or twigs. More often, though, the ‘unemployed’ adult will abuse the chick and bully it with its bill, jabbing at the neck and head of the juvenile. Sometimes the advances are of a sexual character, with the aggressor climbing on the chick as it attempts to mate. Abused by an unrelated adult, when they grow up, the victimised boobies tend to bully unrelated juveniles. The vicious cycle is repeated.

The booby’s distinctive foot colouring plays a large part in attracting a mate

EXPEDITIONS • 41

GALÁPAGOS

DARWIN’S FINCHES The 13 species of finch that Charles Darwin discovered and studied on the archipelago arrived on the islands two to three million years ago. Finch specialisation is astonishing. Their beaks differ from species to species, and they use them as a tool to feed on various types of food. The large ground finch (Geospiza magnirostris) can grow to 16.5cm in length. Its massive beak is adapted for cracking large, hard seeds. The small ground finch (Geospiza fuliginosa), meanwhile, feeds off reptile ticks. The sharpbeaked ground finch (Geospiza difficilis), living on the Darwin and Wolf Islands, is also known as the ‘vampire finch’ as it pecks at boobies’ tails and drinks their blood. The cactus ground finch (Geospiza scandens) feeds with its longer, downward-curved beak on the nectar, pollen and seeds of the prickly pear cactus. The woodpecker finch (Camarhynchus pallidus) developed a habit of using tools, usually a twig or a cactus spine, to dig out beetle larvae, grubs and wood-boring insects. The mangrove finch (Cactospiza heliobates) is the most endangered of all the bird species in the Galápagos. The remaining population counts less than one hundred individuals and is restricted to just two mangrove forests along the western coast of Isabela. Black rats account for the destruction of half of the eggs during incubation, while the larvae of the ectoparasitic fly (Philornis downsi) kill a third of all newly-hatched chicks.

The woodpecker finch has evolved to use ‘tools’ to find food

A pair of flightless cormorants

42 • EXPEDITIONS

FLIGHTLESS CORMORANTS Cormorants are a family of 40 species, all of them excellent swimmers. Their wings are weaker and proportionately smaller in comparison with other birds as they are detrimental to the cormorants’ ability to swim. This also means the energy spent on flying is proportionately the highest out of all the birds. It is perhaps surprising that the flightless cormorant (Phalacrocorax harrisi), also known as the Galápagos cormorant, is the only member of the cormorant family that completely lost its ability to fly. A lack of predators, except for the Galápagos hawk which preys on its chicks, and an abundance of fish supported by the cold upwelling of the Cromwell Current, allowed the flightless cormorant to evolve into an extraordinary diver and underwater hunter. To become this, it had to lose what was not essential, in this case, its wings.

GALÁPAGOS PENGUINS Despite a few irresponsible and misinformed attempts to introduce penguins to the Arctic in the 19th and the 20th centuries, the Galápagos penguin (Spheniscus mendiculus) remains the only penguin living and breeding in the northern hemisphere. These birds can make such a claim only because the equator runs through the most northerly tip of Isabela, one of the few places where they live. The Galápagos penguin is the second smallest species of penguins in the world with its average length of 49cm, but which is only 35cm tall when standing.

EXPEDITIONS • 43

GALÁPAGOS

The waved albatross is a graceful, powerful flier, but its landings could use some work

WAVED ALBATROSSES The waved albatross (Phoebastria irrorata) is the largest bird that breeds in the Galápagos, with a wingspan of 2.4m and a weight of three to four kilos. It is found only on Española with 15,000 to 18,000 breeding pairs (though there is also a tiny population of albatrosses on Isla La Plata off the coast of Ecuador). The albatross is a magnificent flier, which is illustrated by the fact its primary foraging area lies off the coast of Peru, where the cold Humboldt Current upwells full of nutrients and fish, a thousand kilometres away southeast from the Galápagos. The journey there and back takes the birds around 20 days and they spend the whole trip flying with just a relatively short time dedicated to fishing. During two to three weeks of chick brooding, when the adults cannot leave the nest for such a long time, they fish on a patch of water 100km (54Nm) north-northwest of Española. As gracious fliers as they are, some might say that their landing procedure may need some improvement. After much circling, they attempt to make a controlled landing close to their presumed territory and nesting site. This often does not work out as planned. Their stalling speed seems to be a touch too high and their feet a touch too short, so not infrequently they end up in an undignified crash-landing. The waved albatross is listed as Critically Endangered by the IUCN. Fishermen catch the males for food and they also often fall victim to longline fishing and end up as bycatch. n • Galápagos by Josef Litt is a 288-page comprehensive guide to the islands available now on Amazon (£29.90 hardback) – amzn.to/2HzGBjS 44 • EXPEDITIONS

While brooding, fishing occurs to the northwest of the Galápagos

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PONANTE

The French Touch Combining class, elegance and adventure with the latest in expedition cruise technology

rom its very beginnings, PONANT, the only cruise line sailing under the French flag, made the bold move of proposing a new style of cruising, through a unique conception of sea travel combining exceptional itineraries and elegant hotel service aboard ships on an intimate scale. For 30 years, the company has been endeavouring to send the ‘French way of life’ to all the world’s oceans. This ‘French touch’ is especially embodied by a French crew for whom discreet service and gastronomy take pride of place. Aboard limited-capacity yachts, specially designed for expeditions, guests access, in a privileged and responsible manner, preserved territories in unrivalled standards of comfort and service. 2018 marks the arrival of the first two of our new Explorer class ships, Le Lapérouse, in June, followed by Le Champlain, set for delivery in autumn. Le Bougainville and Le Dumontd’Urville will follow in 2019 and two more Explorers are scheduled for 2020. Combining a moderate size (131 meters in length and 92 staterooms), design, technology and respect for the environment (Cleanship label, Bureau Veritas), the PONANT Explorers have been designed to reach the most inaccessible

46 • EXPEDITIONS

The Blue Eye underwater lounge offers unrivalled sub-surface views

sites. The ships will offer an even wider selection of destinations, most notably the brand-new itineraries in tropical and sub-tropical regions. These sister ships will all boast the exclusive concept of a multi-sensorial underwater lounge, known as Blue Eye. This world’s first will allow passengers to see, hear and feel the underwater world. In 2021, PONANT will launch the first ever PC2 Polar Class luxury cruise ship. This hybrid electric icebreaker will be powered by Liquified Natural Gas – cutting-edge technology that makes PONANT a pioneer in environmental protection. With a fleet of 12 ships, 2,000 crew members and 460 departures planned by 2021, PONANT will sail all the seas of the world to exceptional destinations: the Antarctic, the Arctic, Alaska, the Amazon, the Orinoco, the Scattered Islands, Kimberley, Papua New Guinea, and soon even the roof of the world, the geographic North Pole – all while remaining faithful to its philosophy. n n For more call 0800 980 40 27 or visit www.ponant.com

PONANT’s ships are able to negotiate virtually any location

Five-star luxury is a hallmark of the PONANT experience

PONANT destinations range from Africa to the Arctic EXPEDITIONS • 47

ONE OCEAN EXPEDITIONS

AN OCEAN OF DISCOVERY

Some people travel to the ends of the Earth to find themselves. With so much to experience on a One Ocean Expeditions voyage, it is far more likely you will lose yourself, in a series of unforgettable moments

48 • EXPEDITIONS

o step out of your comfort zone entirely and cast aside the daily routine is, for some, a daunting experience. There isn’t much that can prepare you for your first glimpse of a towering iceberg, the shape and beauty of which is like nothing you have seen before. Few can imagine the deafening cacophony of sound heard on the edge of a king penguin rookery in South Georgia, home to hundreds of thousands of meandering birds. Equally, the silence of the small explorers’ graveyard on Beechey Island in the Canadian Arctic, a reminder of a bygone, heroic age, is an experience you will likely never forget. A trip on any of these itineraries will be something that will remain with you for the rest of your life.

Zodiac excursions bring you up close and personal with impressive sea creatures

Towering icebergs in the Antarctic are a sight like no other

One Ocean Expeditions was one of the first to create authentic, small-group programming. Innovation has been integral to the DNA of the company since its inception. Its experienced management team was the first to bring camping, sea kayaking and hiking to the polar regions in a safe, inclusive and fun environment, integrating wildlife identification and photography. The privately-owned, Canadian, family-run business has the ethos that those who come as passengers will leave as friends. The intimate atmosphere of the vessels, the sense of adventure, plus the amount of time spent together on shore certainly evokes a feeling of kinship. The Expedition Programme is the backbone of voyages offered in Antarctica, the High Arctic, and the Islands of the North Atlantic and consists of a comprehensive sea kayaking, ski touring, hiking, accredited field science and wildlife identification program.

Kayaking trips combine field science with leisure activities

EXPEDITIONS â&#x20AC;˘ 49

ONE OCEAN EXPEDITIONS

Hiking in the Torngat Mountains in Newfoundland Distinctive houses in the Faroe Islands

Meeting llamas in Chile

At the heart of maritime culture lies the desire to explore and discover the unknown. One Ocean Expeditions’ extensive commitment to Exploratory Programming, education and providing vessels, has led to a wide portfolio of partnerships. These range from nationally and internationally accredited scientific programmes to university field studies. The 2014 Victoria Strait Expedition, resulting in the successful find of the HMS Erebus, was the first of its kind in Canada’s history, bringing government, public and private enterprise together into a singular project. Following this trajectory, One Ocean Expeditions is furthering itinerary and programme development, showcasing historical vessel exploration, wildlife colonies in remote areas, and even more days of scientific support. At the core of all the programming are the onboard experts. Part of the mandate to support nationally accredited scientific and research projects means that guests mingle with experts in various fields, including history, ornithology, biology, glaciology and geology. All share their decades of experience and research findings through onboard presentations, discussions and field excursions on shore and in the Zodiacs. These special guests add a fascinating dimension to the voyages, offering inclusive discussions specific to their field of knowledge. Among these distinguished experts are Ian Stirling (polar bear biologist), Simon Boyes (ornithologist), Daisy Gilardini (photographer), Ari Friedlaender (marine biologist), John Dudeney (historian) and Brian Keating (naturalist). As the saying goes, ‘it’s not the destination, it’s the journey’. One Ocean Expeditions’ purpose-built, Lloyds 1A/1AS ice-strengthened vessels lend themselves to ensuring the journey is safe, stable and comfortable. The impressive fleet of One Ocean Navigator / Akademik Ioffe, One Ocean Voyager /Akademik Sergey Vavilov and RCGS Resolute, were all built in the iconic Rauma shipyard in Finland. The newest addition, RCGS Resolute, has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment and now boasts uninterrupted, panoramic views, setting it apart from any other, both inside and from the comfort of outdoor heated, wind-protected seating areas. In many of the destinations visited, guests become part of history simply by stepping foot on shore, during the many varied, custom-tailored excursions. No matter which itinerary you chose, how many activities you enjoy or how many nights you book, you will always have the distinct feeling that you were in the presence of the great, seafaring explorers who have gone before. After all, there is only one ocean and it longs to be explored. n n For more call +35 1 962 721 836 or visit www.oneoceanexpeditions.com

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Explore

with the hybrid pioneer

heritage of Hurtigruten

We are proud to have navigated polar waters for 125 years. Our advanced new hybrid ship is named after intrepid Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, who adventured to Antarctica and became the first person to reach the South Pole.

Unmatched expertise

A handpicked, experienced team of specialists and modern-day adventurers will be on hand throughout your journey. They will guide you on shore landings, add scientifi c insights, and ensure your visit in this environment is always safe and sustainable.

Your basecamp at sea

Relaxation and refreshment can be found on board our hybrid ships at the infinity pool, Jacuzzis, three restaurants, observation lounge, wellness area and gym. The hightech science centre allows further exploration from new perspectives.

Get Ready To Explore 2019/20 brochure

Call 0203 553 1351 | VISIT www.hurtigruten.co.uk | CONTACT your local travel agent