pearlmood the gellner magazine
EDITION03
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IN TRO
kdrei.de
photo: andrea d‘aquino
www.gellner.com
WELCOME! WE INVITE YOU ON A JOURNEY INTO THE FASCINATING WORLD OF CULTURED PEARLS AND THE JEWELRY THAT CAN BE MADE WITH THEM. EDITION03
Sometimes when people dream, they first discover their lives. That’s what happened to Justin Hunter, who had a big dream: to culture the world’s most extraordinary pearls in Fiji, in rare colors like deep-green, brown-bronze and aubergine. He returned from USA to his native country to make his dream a reality. We joined him there, visited his farms and now market exclusively his heavenly pearls. More about this on page 6. Cacau also had a dream: to play soccer and make a better life for himself and his family. He came to Germany from Brazil and fought his way from the 5th league to the national team. This likeable professional soccer player from Stuttgart sets an example for a lot of people, and soon perhaps for men in particular: Together we developed a new men’s jewelry line, called “Seleção by Cacau.” See and read more about it on page 26.
Our Pearlmood promises even more to dream about: New collections have been designed to give the most beautiful cultured pearls in the world a unique stage. The beauty of pearls and their magic only truly come to life when they are worn on the skin.
JÖRG GELLNER Managing Director Gellner – The Spirit of Pearls
“Liz,” “Marilyn,” “Grace,” and “Audrey” will have to wait their turn ... I simply could not resist these four extraordinary cultured pearls and had to put them into my “Hall of Fame.” My own little dream was to keep them for myself and look forward to the new things that their magic would reveal to me every day. This experience can be yours as well – beginning on page 30. I wish you a lot of joy in reading this magazine! JÖRG GELLNER and the entire Gellner team
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BE MAG
IC! Get you r own am azing necklace wit cultured h Tahitian pear special p ls at a rice!
CON TENTS
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IT-GIRLS LOVE PEARLS ... because these wonders of nature symbolize lasting values and trendy style. The proof is in our photo shoot!
DISCOVER WHAT MAKES THE SPIRIT OF PEARLS SO UNIQUE: 56 PAGES OF PEARLMOOD ARE WAITING FOR YOU!
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photo: andrea d‘aquino
www.gellner.com
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IN LOVE WITH FIJI ... just as Justin Hunter always has been – because it is only there that he can culture his wonderful pearls. We went to Fiji to share in his enthusiasm! Page 40
EDITION03
VERY PASSIONATE
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VERY PRECISE
Birgit Gellner-Pavlow has many passions. One of them is jewelry design.
Size? Luster? Or shape? What gives cultured pearls their value.
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VERY CREATIVE
IN THE VERY BEGINNING
New ideas for jewelry pieces originate within the Gellner team.
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Where do cultured pearls actually come from? A visit to some pearl farmers.
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VERY NEW
VERY EXCLUSIVE
Stephen Birkbeck has extracted the scent of pearls – and even given the pearls themselves a fragrance.
Jörg Gellner’s “Hall of Fame” and the most beautiful pearls in the world. Page 34
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VERY INTIMATE
VERY DIFFERENT
Pearlmates bracelets translate love into sensual jewelry.
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CACAU LOVES ROUND OBJECTS
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VERY COLORFUL Monika Seitter’s jewelry mixes cheerful colors and materials. A feast for the senses!
With “Pearl Style by Gellner”, a new style can be discovered every day. Page 52
... and we love Cacau! And his “Seleção by Cacau”. The soccer player has developed a new men’s collection with Gellner. For men and women with passion and style!
VERY CLASSIC Why cultured pearls suit all styles and why style icons rely on their effect.
IMPRINT pearlmood is the magazine from
director: Jörg Gellner
managing editor: Mathias Menzel
proofreading: K. Harde-Tinnefeld
Gellner – The Spirit of Pearls
project management: Daniela Brües
art direction: Christine Köhler
photo editor: Andre Weinberg
publisher:
concept und realization:
editors: Ute Koch, Marija
lithography: Martina Drignat
Gellner GmbH & Co. KG
Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH
Stojanovic
printed by: Neef + Stumme
Uhlandstraße 15, 75446 Wiernsheim,
& Co. KG, Jarrestr. 2, 22303 Hamburg,
authors: Christel Trimborn, Linda
premium printing, Schillerstraße 2,
Germany. www.gellner.com
Germany. www.untitled-verlag.de
Hartdegen, Irmie Schüch-Schamburek
25758 Wittingen, Germany.
please note The pictures do not show the jewelry in its actual size. It may also vary in color. The respective prices can be found at www.gellner.com/pearlmood
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EDITION03 PORTRAIT: Justin Hunter
a sea dream JUSTIN HUNTER HAD A DREAM: TO CULTURE PEARLS THAT EXCEEDED THE BEAUTY OF ALL THOSE THAT EXISTED BEFORE. HE FULFILLED THIS DREAM IN FIJI: HIS UNUSUALLY LARGE PEARLS SHIMMER IN COLORS FROM DEEP GREEN TO BROWN-BRONZE TO AUBERGINE.
text // Christel Trimborn
VANUA LEVU
FIJI
VITI LEVU
FIJI: PARADISE OF PEARLS IN THE PACIFIC Legendary Fiji-cultured pearls only grow in Fiji, one of a cluster of islands in the Pacific Ocean. Optimal farmland, and thus Fiji cultured pearls, are especially rare. Total annual production lies around 23,000 pearls.
As a child, I spent more time in than out of the water,” chuckles Justin Hunter. This amiable young man grew up in Savusavu, a village on the south coast of Fiji. It is located on Vanua Levu Island, one of 330 small islands in the southwest Pacific. “The ocean is one of the most important things in my life. I grew up with it and in it, and today I live from it,” he says. Hunter spent his youth in the U.S., his father’s home. He went to high school there, studied marine biology in college, and worked for a leading American water management company. He had paved a path to a typical carrier. However, his yearning for Savusavu lingered. “I always wanted to return to Fiji.
I wanted only one good reason to go back home,” he says. He found this reason 12 years ago, only in Fiji could he realize his dream of culturing extraordinary pearls. In 2000, Hunter launched J. Hunter Pearls and his first pearl farm, Savusavu Farm. The second farm, Kioa, would follow in 2008. He once again lived in the place of his happy childhood: directly by the sea. PEARLS LIKE NOWHERE ELSE The water surrounding the island is what makes culturing such large pearls of up to 18 millimeters diameter possible: it is warm, clean, and rich in nutrients. This gives the well-nourished oysters (where the pearls grow) the ability to grow thick
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Working where others go on holiday: the Fiji islands, which attract tourists and are known for their fascinating scenery, is also where Justin Hunter and his cultured pearl experts do their work.
The Fiji-cultured pearl owes its exceptional beauty to the respectful handling of nature. The pearls grow inside the brightly colored oysters, and have particularly thick and uniform mother-of-pearl layers.
and uniform mother-of-pearl layers around the nucleus. With a total thickness of roughly 1.6mm, these mother-of-pearl layers surpass those of other pearls cultured in different waters.
AMAZING COLORS Fiji-cultured pearls, which grow in a special variety of the Pinctada Margaritifera oyster, have a much more intense color than those from other regions of the Pacific Ocean. Their mother-of-pearl, as a result, offers a unique range of colors: the color spectrum spans from deep-green and brown-bronze to warm aubergine tones. Fiji-cultured pearls, with their very uniform mother-of-pearl layers, measure on average 9 to 18mm in size.
NATURAL RARITIES “We can guarantee, and are very proud of the fact, that our cultured pearls are an absolutely natural product,” says Justin Hunter. Their enormous color variety, ranging from deep green and shades of shimmering bronze to warm aubergine tones, make Fiji-cultured pearls highly sought-after jewels. The fact that there are relatively few Fiji-cultured pearls, in comparison to Tahitian pearls or white South Sea pearls, makes them even more attractive. The complicated culturing process amounts to an annual harvest of only around 23,000 pearls, even with two harvests per year. Today, there are around
50 workers on both farms, including Japanese technical specialists and people from the immediate surroundings. Getting local people involved, treating them fairly, and contributing to their education, health, and community are all a part of Justin Hunter’s business philosophy. His philosophy is defined by a sense of social as well as ecological responsibility. Hunter, like every pearl farmer who has studied marine biology and loves the sea, knows what the most important factor is for his business success: a healthy environment that allows the culturing of beautiful pearls. Hunter is personally involved in keeping in tact the ecology of the sea surrounding the Fiji islands (of which only a third are inhabited). “This is not only an affair of the heart, but also existentially important,” he says. Hunter’s farms follow a strict set of environmental guidelines
from the Code of Environmental Practice (ECOP). Underlying these measures is the idea of minimizing the negative influences on the surrounding environment, while simultaneously maximizing the positive influences — from the cultivating of baby oysters to the harvesting of pearls. The dedicated pearl farmers work together closely with the environmental ministries and fisheries to formulate and enforce the ECOP. In the meantime, this code has become the standard even for the few other pearl farmers in Fiji. AN EXCLUSIVE PARTNERSHIP Hunter chooses his worldwide business partners, who are allowed to deal with his very limited number of sea treasures, with great care. All the more of an honour it is, then, for the pearl specialist, Jörg Gellner, and his company, Gellner – the Spirit of Pearls, to be solely responsible for the worldwide distribution of Hunter’s Fiji-cultured pearls. “We have had a close partnership and professional relationship for years,” reports Jörg Gellner. “From our trust and cooperation, a unique sales cooperation has developed.” In Wiernsheim, Germany, the home of Gellner, these fascinating Fiji-cultured
pearls are used to produce fine jewelry collections. These include, for example, the desirable “rainbow necklaces” with a diamond-pave clasp, and the special men’s jewelry collection, “You rock”, made in collaboration with Swedish male top model Marcus Schenkenberg, all of which incorporate Justin Hunter’s fabulous Fiji pearls. Like Hunter, Jörg Gellner also chooses his business partners meticulously. He insists on a reputation for cultured pearls that meet the highest quality demands. In order to show off the pristine beauty of Fiji and demonstrate the inspirational running of Hunter’s pearl farms, Gellner traveled to the Fiji islands with his retailer partners. It is easy to to captivate jewelers there with the magnificent and precious cultured pearls, the people involved in their creation, and the beautiful landscape itself. The sea, the sand, the nature, the Fijian friendliness and the delicacies created from the islands coconuts speak for themselves. Anyone looking for a good reason to return to Fiji, like Justin Hunter, should simply say “Ni sa moce!” — “Goodbye and see you again!” Pm
APPROVED QUALITY Justin Hunter and Jörg Gellner, the managing director of Gellner, both feel the “Spirit of Pearls” and are absolutely convinced by the quality of Fiji-cultured pearls from J. Hunter Pearls. In Savusavu, Jörg Gellner was able to witness both the precise and time-consuming work involved in culturing pearls and Hunter’s personal philosophy. This sparked their friendship and partnership, and Gellner has been marketing Hunter’s pearls exclusively since 2012. Jörg Gellner is also sometimes accompanied by his jeweler partners on his travels to Fiji. More about this on page 22.
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LET’S TALK PEARLS:
FIJI PEARLS
it‘s cool to look so hot. “BA-ROCKING” PLEASURE The connection between diamonds and Fiji cultured pearls lives in the Spirit of Pearls.
EIS IST JA BEKANNTLICH GEFRORENES WASSER. „FIRE AND ICE” IST
THE ROCK-BAROQUE NECKLACE ALSO EINE BEGEGNUNG DER ELEMENTE UND EINE ALLIANZ VON GEGENSÄTZLICHKEITEN. FROM GELLNER
ICE IS KNOWN TO BE FROZEN WATER. „FIRE AND ICE“ IS THEREFORE AN ENCOUNTER BETWEEN THE ELEMENTS AND AN ALLIANCE OF OPPOSITES.
The jewelry manufacturer, Gellner, has joined the sensual preciousness of baroque Fiji-cultured pearls and the cool magic of white and brown diamonds in a “rocking” combination. The ocean and the earth’s core present their most attractive gifts, namely natural cultured pearls from the island paradise, Fiji, and diamonds from deep within the ground. The uniqueness of the chosen Fiji-cultured pearls speaks for
itself. Such jewels of the sea only grow on Justin Hunter’s pearl farm. The limited number available raises their exclusivity and rarity. The worldwide Fiji sales cooperation between Hunter and Gellner supports the highest quality demands. Rock-Baroque is a cool trend and a hot look. Both for a casual outfit and for dressing up. “Color meets emotion” is the concept and zest for life is the effect.
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EDITION03 PORTRAIT: Birgit Gellner-Pavlow
family ties CHARACTERIZED AS A CREATIVE POWER WITH STRONG FAMILY TIES, BIRGIT GELLNER-PAVLOW’S ARRANGEMENT SKILL AND LOVE OF JEWELRY ARE JUST PART OF THE EXPERTISE THIS CHARMING MULTI-TALENT BRINGS TO THE DESIGNER LINE.
text // Christel Trimborn
Her mother, Tove, is Norwegian, and her father, Heinz, is German. Like her brother, Jörg, and her twin sister, Eveline Müller, Birgit Gellner-Pavlow, or “Biggi” for short, grew up bilingual and in multicultural surroundings. As a result of this experience, she feels at home today just about anywhere in the world. In the early 1990s, a third culture entered Biggi’s German and Scandinavian background: the American culture. Biggi met her husband and love-of-her-life, Randy Pavlow, in California. She describes him as her “other half.” Randy, the son of a jeweler from Pennsylvania, completed his training at the Gemological Institute of America. There, he met Biggi, who was also studying at the institute. She was a goldsmithing graduate and the daughter of the owner of south-German pearl jewelry company, Gellner. Not only have they been inseperable ever since, but they also
run a successful jewelry business together: Gellner USA. From there, they represent Gellner – The Spirit of Pearls, and present the jewelry collections to American customers at the most important trade fairs, such as the one in Las Vegas. Randy Pavlow personally visits each one of his exclusive customers, who are scattered all over the U.S. He also organizes vernissages and training sessions about pearls. Whenever Gellner goes for a trip to the countries where these jewels of the sea originate, Biggi also accompanies her international customers. “Our pearl-related journeys to China, Japan, Philippines and the Fiji Islands were the greatest adventures. I am so grateful that I could be there,” she raves. American by choice, Biggi lives with her husband and their three children outside of Philadelphia in Lederach, Pennsylvania.
GELLNER USA This used to be where chickens would roost and firewood was stored. Instead, there is only pearl jewelry here today. This former barn, directly next to a farm in Lederach, Pennsylvania, serves as Gellner USA’s office and showroom. It is also where Birgit Gellner-Pavlow and her husband, Randy, built up the business.
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Airy necklace with 18K rose gold chain links of different sizes, with precious Tahitian and South Sea cultured pearls and multi-faceted diamonds.
Long diamond necklaces in fashionable color combinations of brown and black tones, with precious Tahitian and South Sea cultured pearls.
On a visit to Norway, the home of her mother, Tove: Birgit Gellner-Pavlow and her husband, Randy. They were introduced to each other in California in the early 1990s, and have been inseparable professionally and privately ever since.
SMILE AND SAY “CHEESE!” The fact that there are countless photos of both Standard Poodles, Trapper and Murphy, the beautifully designed garden, the three kids, and holidays in Germany, Norway, and USA, but only very few photos of herself, can be attributed to Biggi’s passion for photography. She rarely lets the camera out of her hands, which is why her friends jokingly call her “Pavlorazzi.”
Whoever thinks that this workload must fully occupy her day does not know Birgit Gellner-Pavlow well. She has energy for much more: for her two favorite hobbies, photography and garden design, for friends and family, for taking walks with her two Standard Poodles, Trapper and Murphy, and for creating pearl jewelry. “I have been exposed to cultured pearls since the time I could crawl,” she says. As a child, she remembers helping her mother string “fantasy necklaces” and helping Gellner employees sort and drill pearls.
in the family company that has resided here since 1967. This is where she gets design ideas and inspiration from the beauty and uniqueness of the cultured pearls and stones that her brother, Jörg, has chosen and bought at auctions and trade fairs.
Her most recent necklaces, which are popular with customers worldwide, are made from a harmonious combination of color stones, diamonds and cultured pearls. “I always send new sketches to the company, and then my brother and I think about what pieces would be best in the Gellner collection and can be realized,” she reports.
Her mother, Tove, never stands at the stove without a pearl necklace on, even when on holiday at their Norwegian summer house. Like her mother, Biggi Gellner-Pavlow also always wears jewelry, regardless of whether she’s gardening or going out for a formal dinner.
Whenever Biggi returns on a “holiday back home” to Wiernsheim-Pinache, a romantic Waldenser village in Southern Germany, she goes to the goldsmithing workshop
“I can lose myself for hours in these wonderful treasures, trying out new color combinations and playing with proportions,” she says. It goes without saying that she, too, is an ardent lover of jewelry. “Without jewelry, I feel sort of naked,” she admits.
The manner in which this multi-tasking lady chooses an outfit and jewelry to wear with it is typically unconventional: “Most people choose their jewelry to match their clothes, but I always start with the jewelry and choose clothes to go with it!” Pm
pearl kisses diamond EXCITING PROPORTIONS AND HARMONIOUS COLOR PROGRESSIONS – THE NEW DIAMOND JEWELRY LINE, DESIGNED BY BIRGIT GELLNER-PAVLOW, IS BOTH CASUAL AND ELEGANT.
Filigree rings made of 18K white gold, black diamonds and precious Tahitian cultured pearls.
Necklace made of shimmering black diamonds, combined with precious Tahitian cultured pearls.
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IT PEARLS IT-GIRLS LOVE PEARLS. THIS IS BECAUSE THESE ATTRACTIVE WONDERS OF NATURE STAND FOR LASTING VALUES AND TRENDY STYLE – WHICH IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF THIS MULTI-STRAND NECKLACE WITH MATCHING RING IN 18K WHITE GOLD, MADE OF BLACK AND BROWN DIAMONDS AND PRECIOUS TAHITIAN CULTURED PEARLS.
photos // Andrea D‘Aquino
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The refreshing colors and relaxing effect of Mother Nature provides a stark contrast to busy, urban life. Rich in contrasts is the extra-long necklace made from magical, dark Tahitian cultured pearls, with its special variable clasp in 18K white gold set with diamonds. Five rings can symbolize sport or be an expression of extravagant naturalness. Precious pearls cultured in the South Sea, Tahiti and Fiji have a luster that resembles the brilliance of white or colored diamonds set in 18K rose or white gold.
natural
F it-pearls B Delicate wrists present the stage for Gellner Pearlmates bracelets.
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Precious Fiji-cultured pearls are combined with diamond encrusted orbs in 18K white gold or engraved mystic cultured pearls. A timeless classic: luxurio us South Sea cultured pearls with vario-design clasps in 18K rose gold.
you
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EDITION03
PHILIPPINES
ON THE WAY: Pearl journeys
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Aparri LUZON
PHILIPPINES Manila Legaspi
MINDORO
SAMAR PANAY LEYTE
PALAWAN
Puerto Princesa
Jewelmer farm
Butuan MINDANAO
Zamboanga Jolo
Davao
200 kmm
T H E P E A R L FA R M Jewelmer palawan, philippines
journey to the origins WHERE DO CULTURED PEARLS COME FROM? SOME PARTNER JEWELERS OF GELLNER HAVE ALREADY FOUND THE ANSWER ON TRIPS TO PEARL FARMS ALL OVER THE WORLD. HERE, YOU’LL SEE PICTURES OF THEIR ADVENTURES – TAKING YOU ON A JOURNEY TO THE FARMERS AND THE MAGNIFICENT NATURE SURROUNDING THEIR FARMS.
The pearl farm of Jewelmer is located at Palawan, one of around 7,000 Philippine islands. The surrounding Sulu-Sulawesi Sea offers warm, turquoise waters and the largest biodiversity on earth — ideal conditions for pearl farming. Jewelmer puts special emphasis on the protection and care of the ocean and marine life. The farmers know that the highest quality of cultured pearls can only be achieved with the highest environmental standards and the best water quality. Each production step is therefore done with the utmost respect for nature and its treasures, as Jörg Gellner, his sisters Eveline, and Birgit and some jewelers were able to see first hand during a visit in 2007.
text // Mathias Menzel T H E P E A R L FA R M E R S Those who want to travel to the the place where cultured pearls come from have to go on a long-distance trip: in relation to Germany, most of the world‘s pearl farms are situated exactly on the opposite side of the earth – on secluded atolls or in sheltered bays in the Philippines, Fiji, or in Japan and Australia. In short: wherever the sea is clean, warm, and nutritious enough to cultivate the most beautiful pearls. For Gellner, no distance is too far to see up close the seeding, nurturing, and harvesting of the pearls and to meet the farmers personally. With many of his partners, Jörg Gellner enjoys long-standing relationships
and even friendships. Purchasing pearls is not least a matter of trust, which also means that the partners must meet Gellner’s high quality standards. The pearl specialist pays special attention to eco-friendly pearl farming because he knows that only an intact ecosystem will allow for the culturing of beautiful pearls. On their journeys to the pearls’ origins the Gellner family is sometimes accompanied by jewelers who get to see how pearls are cultured. Pearlmood takes you on a journey, too, as we introduce you to some of the farmers and show you how pearls are harvested. Join us!
The farmers, Jacques Branellec and Manuel Cojuangco of Jewelmer, bring more than 20 years of experience to pearl farming and the expertise of marine biologists. The result: an abundance of golden South Sea cultured pearls of the highest quality.
T H E C U LT U R E D PEARLS The South Sea cultured pearls are considered to be the “queens of pearls” and the “gold of the Pacific.” Their colors range from white to cream to deep gold, which is especially rare. They grow in the Pinctada Maxima oyster, which can grow up to 30 centimeters in size and weigh up to five kilograms. Their motherof-pearl layers are equally robust: the diameters of South Sea cultured pearls can reach up to 18 millimeters. On very rare occasions with perfectly round shapes, sizes up to 22 millimeters are possible.
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Labasa VANUA LEVU
Lekutu
FIJI
Savusavu
Daria
Savusavu Hunter farm
FIJI
Wan farm, Apataki
Kioa Hunter farm
TAVEUNI
TA H I T I
Papeetee TAHITI
SOCIETY ISLANDS
Wan farm, Fakarava
TUAMOTU ISLANDS
Wan farm, Nengo Nengo
YASAWA ISLANDS KORO
RAkiraki Nasau
GAMBIER ISLANDS
Lautoka
Wan farm, Gambier-Taku
LEVUKA
VITI LEVU
Nadi
Nausori
Wan farm, Aukena
Qarani GAU
Sigatoka
Wan farm, Marutea Sud
Suva
400 km
BEQA VATULELE
40 km
T H E P E A R L FA R M T H E P E A R L FA R M J. Hunter Pearls savusavu and kioa, fiji J. Hunter Pearls operates two pearl farms on the Fiji islands: Savusavu and Kioa. The first, Savusasu, was founded by Justin Hunter in 2000 with the aim to culture the largest, most beautiful and extraordinary pearls in the world. The shallow bays of the Fiji islands offer the best conditions. And each and every harvest proves that Justin Hunter has achieved his goal. In pearl farming, he pays special attention to protecting the plant. He initiated an “Environmental Code of Practice,” which is now in effect throughout Fiji. As an employer, he also attaches great importance to fair pay and working conditions and is also active in his community. A number of jewelers were able to witness this for themselves on site in 2011 (photo below left).
Robert Wan marutea sud, tahiti The pearl farms of Robert Wan, who started pearl farming 40 years ago, are located far from the main islands of French Polynesia, on idyllic atolls in the Pacific. Distances in Tahiti are relative anyway: The whole expanse of the country is about half the size of Europe. Today, Robert Wan is regarded as “King of the South Pacific,” a designation that is justified by the beautiful cultured pearls produced by his farms each year, as well as his business acumen and his strong commitment to the preservation of the flora and fauna of the islands and lagoons.
T H E P E A R L FA R M E R
Justin Hunter is a native of Fiji, trained in the U.S. as a marine biologist, and fulfilled his dream of a lifetime with his own pearl farm (see also page 6).
Robert Wan is a living legend: born a poor child of Chinese immigrants, he has become the largest employer in French Polynesia. Today, he and his farms are responsible for the largest and most beautiful Tahitian cultured pearls worldwide — which has only been possible with the necessary experience in pearl farming and a special sense for the beauty of the sea jewels.
T H E C U LT U R E D PEARLS
T H E C U LT U R E D PEARLS
The color spectrum of Fiji-cultured pearls by Justin Hunter ranges from deep green and bronze brown to warm aubergine. These colors make them absolute beauties and rarities. Their size is usually 9 to 11 millimeters, and sometimes reaches up to 18 millimeters. They are also very rare, with only around 23,000 cultured pearls leaving the farm annually. The Fiji-cultured pearls of Justin Hunter are only available at Gellner: they are distributed exclusively worldwide from Wiernsheim.
Tahitian cultured pearls can be immediately recognized by their noble dark metallic color. They grow in a black pearl oyster that is native only to French Polynesia. The color spectrum of the Tahitian cultured pearls ranges from dark gray and anthracite green to aubergine. The color shades often change within the pearls, making them particularly mysterious. They are between 8 and 18 millimeters in size. Sizes over twelve millimeters are very rare and therefore especially valueable.
T H E P E A R L FA R M E R
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EDITION03 COLLECTION: Seleção by Cacau
all-around perfection HE HAS FALLEN FOR PLAYING WITH ROUND OBJECTS: PROFESSIONAL SOCCER PLAYER, CACAU, NOT ONLY LOVES SOCCER, BUT ALSO PEARL JEWELRY FROM GELLNER. AND WEARING THE DARK, SHIMMERING TAHITIAN CULTURED PEARLS HE CERTAINLY SETS HIMSELF APART BOTH ON AND OFF THE SOCCER FIELD.
text // Linda Hartdegen photo // Mat Neidhardt@upperorange.com
The fascination for playing ball goes back as far as he can remember: by the age of 7, all he wanted to do was play soccer. Like many boys of this age in Brazil, Claudemir Jeronimo Baretto, known as “Cacau” for short, dreamed of becoming a soccer star. His dream began on the streets of Mogi das Cruzes. As an offensive player for VfB Stuttgart, he has celebrated successes like the German Championship, played with his team in the Champions League and debuted for the German national team at the 2010 World Cup. His way to the top hasn’t always been easy. In 1994, Cacau played as a youth for Nacional Sao Paulo, but didn't make the jump to a professional team. His trainer's friend eventually brought him
to Germany. In Germany, he fought his way up – from the 5th league with SV Türk Gücü Munich to the national league at 1.FC Nuremberg. Cacau says he prayed that he would one day become a professional soccer player. His deep faith always helped him in challenging situations and not losing his confidence. His commitment to others comes naturally for Cacau: he sponsors the children’s charity World Vision and countless others. The DFB has appointed him as a spokesperson for cultural integration in Germany. No one is better suited for this role than he is: in 2009, Cacau became a German citizen, he speaks perfect German, and leads quite a typical German
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Leather belts with oxidized silver and Tahitian cultured pearls.
Rings made from oxidized silver and Tahitian cultured pearls.
life. He resides close to Stuttgart with his wife, Tamara, and two kids.
FAMILY VALUES Cacau’s wife, Tamara, is always by his side, accompanying him and giving him strength. She was even there for the visit to Gellner’s workshop and at the photo shoot for the “Seleção” campaign. Both Cacau and Tamara came well-prepared with a great deal of curiosity for cultured pearls and the fabulous jewelry that incorporates them. Soccer did not once become the focus of conversation. On the spot, Tamara tried on Gellner’s jewelry and was immediately included in the photo shoot. Owner Jörg Gellner was impressed with the couple’s strong partnership: “It shows that family and family values build the foundation for success, not only in businesses like Gellner, but also in the world of sport.”
Cacau’s fascination with round objects is not, however, limited to soccer. Together with Gellner and the “Obsession” jewelry design team, he has developed his own pearl jewelry line for men. Not surprisingly, it is called “Seleção by Cacau”! In addition to communicating love and sensitivity, the jewelry was transformed into a language of forms that includes masculinity, sportiness, and vitality. Seleção’s pieces harmoniously combine oxidized silver, dark leather and magical Tahitian cultured pearls. The collection includes matching rings, necklaces, bracelets and cuff links. In each piece, one or two Tahitian cultured pearls are placed in a goblet-shaped setting. Dark corners and light edges, sharpness and softness, matt and polished surfaces – much like the facets of the modern man, living and succeeding in an urban jungle. Hardly anyone embodies this type of man better than the football virtuoso, Cacau.
Necklace and bracelet made from leather and oxidized silver, cuff links made from oxidized silver – both with Tahitian cultured pearls.
With a fighting spirit and a caring heart, he is able to assert his own will and also show his own feelings. Cacau himself even sees a parallel between cultured pearls and his own life: “It took a long time and much effort for me to go from a poor background in Brazil to a better life,” Cacau says. „This is similar to a cultured pearl: it needs a long time and much effort to create something so beautiful.” SETTING A NEW TREND “Seleção by Cacao” is already the second men’s pearl jewelry line from Gellner: their first men’s line, “You rock,” was a collaboration with the Swedish top model Marcus Schenkenberg and introduced in 2009. Gellner set a new trend as the first German pearl jewelry manufacturer to make pearl jewelry both tangible and wearable for men.Typically masculine materials such as leather and silver, combined with pearls, meets not only the tastes of stars like Cacau, but also that of all men that appreciate jewelry and fine pearls. Pm
Crowd-pleaser and pearl jewelry wearer: soccer player Cacau.
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EDITION03 STORY: Hall of Fame
the most beautiful of all PEARL SPECIALIST JÖRG GELLNER DETECTS THE MOST PRECIOUS CULTURED PEARLS IN THE WORLD. HERE, HE PRESENTS HIS “HALL OF FAME” OF DEEP-SEA BEAUTIES.
text // Christel Trimborn
He has the eye and the sixth sense for the exceptional: Jörg Gellner travels the whole world to find the most beautiful cultured pearls. The most extraordinary sea beauties exude a special aura that “puts a spell on you,” according to the pearl specialist. Because he can’t resist their charm, Gellner collects these pearls in his own “Hall of Fame.” Let yourself be enchanted, too!
Before the Hollywood icon had this natural wonder set in a necklace, it graced the Spanish throne for many generations, and at the beginning of the 19th century, found itself in the possession of the Bonaparte family. In 1969, Liz Taylor received “La Peregrina” as a Valentine’s gift from Richard Burton. Burton bought it at auction for 37,000 dollars. This sum was multiplied several fold last winter, when “La Peregrina” again went under the gavel. No one knows exactly
whether the price was due to the almost unearthly beauty of “La Peregrina,” or the divine Liz, who wore the luxurious piece on special occasions. At the Christie’s auction in December 2011, the necklace achieved a price of close to 12 million dollars. A new record, never before had so much been paid for historical pearl jewelry. Jörg Gellner is also a great admirer of cultured pearls. His travels around the entire world in search of the most beautiful cultured pearls include visits to pearl farms and auctions in Hong Kong. Throughout his life, he has come across a few of these stunning examples, and whenever it was possible, he seized the opportunity to get hold of them. “There are certain pearls that have an extraordinary charm,” he raves. “When you see such a piece, you immediately know how rare it is. Such pearls can not be rated with common criteria like shape, color, and luster. It is their unique aura that puts people under their spell.”
How does he find such rare specimens of nature? Sometimes pearl farmers who know of Gellner’s passion and enthusiasm for unusual pearl jewels will offer them to him. Other times, Gellner reflects, coincidence plays a role.
Photos: Polaris/Laif (1)
JÖRG GELLNER: THE PEARL SPECIALIST
Someone who really worshipped pearls, and went down in history as a goddess herself, was Elizabeth Taylor. She not only owned many pearls, but also had some of the most beautiful pearl rarities that the lagoons and bays of the world have to offer. Among the most remarkable pieces in Taylor’s collection was “La Peregrina,” a single natural pearl discovered in the Gulf of Panama 500 years ago. It has a weight of 50.56 carats and a perfect white drop-form design.
Once, he even bid on an entire lot of undesirable cultured pearls to find a particularly color-intensive, grass-green, 19 millimeter-long Fiji cultured pearl. “Unfortunately, I sold the amazing piece
quite quickly,” says the pearl-enthusiast with regret.
“LA PEREGRINA”: THE RECORD-SETTING PEARL
Today, Gellner takes the time to give the unique cultured pearls from Tahiti, the Philippines, Fiji, or Australia the honor and admiration they are due. At the moment, there are four of the world’s most beautiful and precious cultured pearls in his “Hall of Fame.” Their names remind us of beautiful and famous women, who were themselves self-proclaimed pearl lovers.
500 years old, 50.56 carats, worth 12 million dollars: “La Peregrina” is a special pearl for many reasons. Also because its last owner was the celebrity Liz Taylor, who received the pearl as a gift from Richard Burton. He paid 37,000 dollars for it at the time, but it was sold more recently in auction for 12 million dollars. Surely a good investment to make.
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LIZ
GRACE
AUDREY
MARILYN
34.6 X 40.3MM
Ø 18.3MM
20.7MM X 23.4MM
Ø 18MM
LIZ THE CURVY ONE
GRACE THE IRRESISTABLE ONE
AUDREY THE INTENSE ONE
MARILYN THE ENCHANTING ONE
Liz has dream-like dimensions of 34.6 x 40.3 millimeters. She is the largest baroque South Sea cultured pearl ever found. Jörg Gellner reveres this pearl not only because it shares its name with the film diva, Taylor, but because it is absolutely unique. “Brilliant, amazing, fantastic” are among the adjectives that come to mind for the expert. A royal-blue shimmer surrounds this curvy beauty, found in Indonesia. Such large South Sea pearls are also rarely harvested beyond the coasts of Australia. Gellner bought this magnificent pearl from the Australian pearl farmer, Rosario Autore. Despite his friendship with his German colleague, Autore understandably separated from Liz with a heavy heart.
Grace has a totally different presence than Liz, but is no less brilliant. She comes from one of the pearl farms belonging to Robert Wan, a world renowned pearl farmer. Due to its astonishing circumference of over 18 millimeters and its intense “peacock” color, this heavenly Tahitian cultured pearl has also been named “Miss Tahiti.” With its irresistable aura and unique, almost metallic shine, it is no wonder that Grace has countless admirers and could win any pearl beauty pageant. Indeed, at a jewelry fair in Hong Kong, she turned heads so often that she changed owners four times within a very short period. And because of an error in currency conversion, she was always sold for under her real worth. Laughing fifth and still an ardent Grace fan: Jörg Gellner.
Similarly matured in the warm lagoons of French Polynesia is Audrey, the youngest in Jörg Gellner’s “Hall of Fame.” At 20.7 x 23.4 millimeters, she is even a little larger than Grace. Gellner explains its distinctiveness: “What makes Grace and Audrey so unique is their extremely intense “peacock” coloring and their enormous size,” says the pearl specialist. “Two-colored pearls that have changing green and blue tones are not a rarity in Tahiti, however in this size and perfection they are very seldom,” he remarks. “Most of the time, the smaller cultured pearls from the ‘first harvest’ are the most intense in color. Generally, with the pearls of the second or third generation (or harvests), the oyster can produce larger circumferences, though often with a paler color.”
It was love at first sight that moved Jörg Gellner to give Marilyn a place in his “Hall of Fame.” The slightly oval pearl from Justin Hunter’s farm in Fiji, has a circumference of 18 millimeters. This pearl has heavenly “sunset” colors, characteristic only of pearls from Fiji. Like a miracle, Marilyn survived the destructive 2010 hurricane that hit the island paradise, destroying much of the harvest. Her rare beauty and strength is what persuaded Gellner of Marilyn. In the meantime, he has had to be separated from her. She is being well looked after by another responsible pearl admirer now.
THE P EARL FARMER: ROBERT WAN
THE P EARL FARMER: ROBERT WAN
THE P EARL FARMER: ROSARIO A UTORE
THE P EARL FARMER: JUSTIN HUNTER
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EDITION03 COLLECTION: Pearlmates
happy together In this bracelet, pristine Tahitian cultured pearls alternate with engraved ones.
LOVE IS … … sharing feelings with someone special, from affection to sensuality. This emotional journey is captured by the Pearlmates collection from Gellner, using the expressive power of precious cultured pearls. Strung on attractive bracelets that have been woven using the macramé technique, the cultured pearls natural elegance is brought together with a relaxed style. Finely engraved cultured pearls and diamond-encrusted beads are also included in this new look. Handmade and going hand-inhand with Mother Nature.
Next to color-changing Fiji-cultured pearls, pavee beads in 18K white gold and set with diamonds are a real eye-catcher.
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F portrait monika seitter B EDITION03 PORTRAIT: Monika Seitter
Playful meets classy: Monika Seitter’s typically colorful plastic rings for Gellner, with charming combinations of Tahitian and South Sea cultured pearls, white and rose gold and precious stones like smoky quartz, amethyst, and lemon quartz.
ers year after year with her constantly new ideas and creations. She mixes the precious with the normal, skillfully and playfully. Her signature creation has long been the combination of gems such as citrin, topaz, or amethyst with colorful matching plastic strings. Occasionally, she experiments with Corian, a resistant material mainly used in manufacturing bathroom and kitchen furniture. Sometimes, Seitter will use Tahitian or South Sea pearls to decorate lounging golden lizards covered in diamonds or engraved with artistic patterns.
colorful, like life itself
THE BOLD MIX OF COLORS AND THE USE OF MATERIALS THAT ARE UNCOMMON IN JEWELRY PRODUCTION, HAS MADE THIS DESIGNER FROM DÜSSELDORF A CELEBRATED STAR IN THE CREATIVE JEWELRY SCENE.
text // Christel Trimborn
The number of adjectives used by customers and the press to describe Monika Seitter’s jewelry is long: imaginative, cheeky, sensuous, soft to the touch, mysterious, exotic, unconventional, irresistible ... The best thing is that there is something for everyone. The pieces that this goldsmith and independent jewelry designer creates are above all diverse. Ever since Monika Seitter founded her own studio in Düsseldorf in 2000, she has been able to win over new custom-
It is no wonder that others descriptions come to mind when observing her unconventional jewelry pieces: sumptuous amusement, for instance, or extravagant color explosion. This is what cool, mood-enhancing jewelry that is “made in Germany” looks like! A devoted resident of Düsseldorf, her love of color is also exhibited in a range of artistic areas. Whenever Seitter has time between professional jewelry design and playing with her two Whippets (British hunting dogs), “Lupo” and “Con-
nor,” she draws or paints. Regardless of whether she uses oil paints, acrylics, aquarelles, or color pencils in her art work, or does wood-block printing, one thing is always present: inspiring color! Seitter speaks to Pearlmood about her passion for jewelry, her work ethic, and her long cooperation with Gellner. Where did the idea come from to combine plastic string with jewelry? From the beginning, it was always very important for me to work with color. During my studies, I worked a lot on graphic art and painting and got to know photography. I also wanted color to play a role in my jewelry, but not only through the use of colored stones. I wanted to create something totally different! So I experimented and tried things out, searching for a material that was not only colorful, but also comfortable to wear and suitable for a whole jewelry collection, not simply single pieces. Eventually, I started to experiment with plastic. How did your idea develop further with the more recent collections?
COLOR COMES TO LIFE LIKE THIS Plastic strings or cords in more than 30 colors are the foundation of Monika Seitter’s jewelry. In her collection for Gellner, plastic materials marry with delightful cultured pearls. This casual and cheerful jewelry is a piece of art, too.
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PIECES FROM THE NEW GELLNER COLLECTION Designed by Monika Seitter
RING Precious clarity: a white South Sea cultured pearl and faceted smoky quartz set in 18K rose gold on a brown plastic band.
NECKLACE Elegant ease: a white South Sea cultured pearl and a blue topaz as pendants in 18K white gold on a pigeon-blue plastic band.
EARRINGS Multifaceted: Earrings in 18K white gold with faceted amethyst.
First, I worked with clothes lines, and then with electrical cables — always in search of something flexible and colorful that could be wrapped around fingers. This led to the idea to use plastic strings or cords. Now, I work together with a German plastic manufacturer that produces the strings especially for me. Every two years, I expand the collection with additional colors. I painstakingly mix these colors in my studio and then have them transformed at the manufacturer into color granules. At the moment, we offer over 30 different colors and almost all nuances. Why has this “plastic trend” endured? Jewelry combined with plastic always looks fresh and really catches the eye. It is suitable for any occasion: sometimes it’s playful or understated, and sometimes elegant — depending on the combination of colors and cultured pearls or stones. In addition, it awakens the passion to collect: if you own a green ring, you might want another one in black or red … The possibilities are endless. Speaking of cultured pearls, how and when did you start working together with Gellner? In the year 2002. Stefan Krauss, the workshop manager of Gellner, noticed me during the Tendence Fair in Frankfurt. Shortly after the fair, Jörg Gellner called me, which led to our first meeting, where I showed my pieces. Jörg Gellner has an unmistakable feeling for what is and isn’t possible in jewelry. He thought that a collaberation would go well. And he was right! Does this collaberation give you new ideas for your own work? Yes, of course! As a designer, it is interesting to see how things run in a business like Gellner, from logistics, sales, and marketing to the delegation of areas
of responsibility to individual employees. Even the cooperation with the pearl farms is interesting and inspiring to me. The entire view behind the scenes gives me the stimulation I need for my own work and the way I function. What are the latest jewelry pieces to come from this GellnerSeitter collaboration? The stacking system that Jörg Gellner and I developed together is new. With these pieces, the plastic cord is wrapped only once around the finger instead of a few times. Sitting on top of the ring is either a cultured pearl or precious stone. The highlight here is that several rings can be “stacked” and worn together on the same finger. This allows for countless possibilities. The wearer can combine rings together with different colored plastic cords — a fantastic attention-getter. We created matching earrings and pendants, too, which also have precious stones and cultured pearls. What will you be surprising us with in the future? There will soon be hand-engraved cultured pearls from French Polynesia, which I have incorporated into my new collection, “Kronos.” Gellner also has gorgeous engraved pearls in their product range, with patterns that I designed myself and have engraved here in Germany. This collection is quite the little sensation! There’s never been anything like it in Germany. Other surprises this year include necklaces, cuffs, and bracelets made out of black woven leather and cultured pearls. The uniqueness here lies in the cultured pearls that seem to be floating. Without any sort of irritating mechanism, the pearls are artistically woven together with the leather strings, giving the jewerly a weightless and sensual quality. Pm
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plays a particularly important role in the culturing of pearls. “Cultured pearls are a product of nature. Each one of them is unique. The most beautiful pearls can only be harvested from ecologically sound and nutrient-rich waters,” says Jörg Gellner. EDITION03 KNOWLEDGE: Quality criteria
really great!
MEASURABLE BEAUTY The notion that beauty lies in the eye of the beholder does not entirely apply to cultured pearls. Besides the spectacular colors that jewelry wearers choose according to their own personal taste, there are four further criteria for assessing these soughtafter ocean jewels. The most significant of these is the “shine” of the pearl, commonly referred to as the “luster.” This results through the reflection of the light inside the cultured pearl. The more mother-ofpearl layers the light goes through, and the more evenly the layers have grown, the brighter the luster of the cultured pearl and the higher its value.
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irregularities are part of the mystery of nature’s creative process! In addition, the shape of the cultured pearl determines its value. Its particular shape comes about through the cultured pearl’s growth in the oyster. The more undisturbed this process is, the more perfect the shape will be. “Perfectly round cultured pearls are the most popular, most rare and the most expensive,” according to Jörg Gellner. A drop-shaped form is also sought-after. Cultured pearls with circular indentations around their circumference, commonly referred to as “circle pearls,” and asymmetrically formed baroque pearls also have their own special charm. These marks on their shape and surface offer evidence of the secret life of the cultured pearls during their development. These deviations from a perfectly round form also make the prices noticeably different: Oval-shaped cultured pearls are around
PURE ROMANCE When the oyster builds uneven crystal layers around the nucleus of the pearl, a baroque-formed cultured pearl results. This means that an unpredictable and bizarre form develops. The irregular refraction on the pearl’s surface and the typically very impressive motherof-pearl layer (up to 6 millimeters per side) are responsible for the iridescent effects. This is romantic and mysterious at once!
WHAT ACTUALLY MAKES A CULTURED PEARL SO VALUABLE? ITS SIZE? ITS SHAPE? ITS LUSTER? JÖRG GELLNER DESCRIBES WHICH CRITERIA ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE OUTSTANDING QUALITY OF THESE “WONDERS OF THE SEA.”
text // Christel Trimborn
ROYAL BEAUTY South Sea cultured pearls are commonly known as the “queen” of cultured pearls. This is due to their naturally large size and perfectly round shape. Their coloring ranges from white-silver to deep gold. In necklace “Number One,” Gellner has lined up the most beautiful of the beautiful: 55 centimeters long with only round, white South Sea cultured pearls. With sizes ranging from 17 to 21 millimeters, this is an absolutely unique piece worldwide!
“Tahitian cultured pearls have to ripen for at least two years inside the oyster before they can be harvested and used in our jewelry. During this time, about 2,000 mother-of-pearl layers will have built up around the nucleus. This is what is responsible for the amazing luster of cultured pearls,” explains Jörg Gellner. And with this he names a considerable factor that is important for the beauty and perfection of cultured pearls: Time! “The layers that are several millimeters thick can only form when there is enough time,” stresses the expert.
Both the cultured pearls that are processed in the Gellner collection and the pearl farmers Jörg Gellner works with are chosen with a great deal of care. Whether he is in French Polynesia, Fiji, the Philippines, or the Australian coast, Jörg Gellner only works together with the best pearl farmers in the world. Mutual trust is another crucial factor that contributes to the high quality of Gellner jewelry pieces. This German guest is well liked on the pearl farms, where he goes to the source personally and is convinced with the unmatched water quality and elaborate work. Water quality
Another criterion is the pearl’s size. As a general rule of thumb, the larger the cultured pearl, the rarer and more precious it is. The white-silver-colored Australian cultured pearls from Rosario Autore, for example, are particularly large, with a diameter of at least nine millimeters. Cultured pearls with a measurement of over 15 millimeters are rarely harvested, and therefore especially precious and desirable. The quality of the pearl’s surface also plays a role in its value. The more flawless it is, the more precious the cultured pearl. Of course, like all natural products, small
20 percent cheaper than round cultured pearls, and “circled” cultured pearls can even be up to 85 percent cheaper. With regard to color, supply and demand determine the price. For example, the rare, deep-gold South Sea cultured pearls from Jewelmer are about three times more expensive than white cultured pearls. Similarly, Justin Hunter’s phenomenal green and brown-gold Fiji cultured pearls are considered precious rarities compared to other types of cultured pearls, because of the small number that exists. Pm
FOR REAL CONNOISSEURS Those looking closely may discover the blue of a peacock feather or the green of a secluded lagoon: Tahitian cultured pearls in this size (15 to 18 millimeters), with perfect quality, and in rare colors only grow on Robert Wan’s pearl farm in Marutea Sud. To produce a “Center Stage“ necklace (like the one in the photo above) takes five to seven years and many harvests, from which only the best cultured pearls are picked.
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EDITION03
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INSIGHT: Jewelry Design
the art of cooperation
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GELLNER STANDS FOR TIMELESS ELEGANCE AND FRESH IDEAS. OF COURSE, MORE THAN JUST ONE DESIGNER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR SO MUCH CREATIVE ENERGY. NEW CREATIONS ORIGINATE FROM WITHIN A TEAM — THIS ALLOWS THE MANUFACTURER TO REALIZE THE MOST CREATIVITY. 3
text // Christel Trimborn photos // Raphael Zubler
1 — TEAMWORK
GIVING SHAPE TO IDEAS Although initial design ideas are traditionally created with pencil on paper, computers often come to the further aid of the design process. Creations can be looked at photorealistically, catered to customers’wishes, and simulated in different materials. Plastic models can even be made using special 3D-printers. Of course, the precious metal pieces themselves are made by hand.
“Obsession” is what Alexandra and Matthias Frei named their gold- and silversmithing business. This name combines the passion for jewelry with high recognition value. The Swiss creative duo recently joined the Gellner design team, which meets regularly with owner Jörg Gellner to develop ideas. “We are the perfect combination, as each brings to the table their own particular talents,” says Jörg Gellner. While he goes around the world to find the most beautiful cultured pearls with his reliable intuition, the Freis prepare the stage on which their magic can unfold. COURAGEOUS INTERACTION Today, they are meeting in Zürich, where Jörg Gellner lives. Alongside sketches on paper, countless cultured pearls and finished jewelry pieces, there are also iPads and laptops, spread out all over the large table. Jewelry design happens increas-
ingly on the computer, because it enables realistic impressions to be rendered of the new creations. Although these designs exist here only virtually, the first results of the German-Swiss creative cooperation from the jewelry line, “Seleção by Cacau,” inspired by soccer player Cacau (see also page 26), are “tangible.” Oxidized silver, black diamonds, dark leather and mysteriously shimmering Tahitian cultured pearls are combined in a simultaneously bold and harmonious way. Courageous and harmonious — two terms that also accurately describe the design team under pearl specialist Jörg Gellner from Wiernsheim. For years, two people in particular have successfully made their marks on the design team. They are: Stefan Krauss, production manager and cultured pearl buyer at Gellner, and Alexander Molz, who works as a model-making goldsmith and is responsible for executing the
designs. This trio is supported by external designers like Alexandra and Matthias Frei. “They managed to put themselves into the world of Gellner almost immediately,” commends the head of the company. UNMISTAKABLE LOOK The Swiss pair have the job of analyzing and gradually expanding Gellner’s existing design lines. Their artistic input should give the brand an “unmistakable face,” or a recognizable look. “At Gellner, the beauty of the cultured pearl is the main focus. The elegance and timelessness of the jewelry revolves around the color, size, quality and uniqueness of the pearl,” explains Jörg Gellner. The jewelry style is based more on longevity than on fast-changing trends. On the other hand, “Pearl Style by Gellner,” the brand founded in 2010, presents itself as unconventional and experimental. “Pearl Style” interprets these jewels of the
sea in a fresh and modern way, and is a playful addition to the precious gems from Gellner. As the name already indicates, cultured pearls play an important role in “Pearl Style.” Pearls are used in a suitable way to attract the trend-aware target group, and combined with materials such as silver, leather, steel, or color stones.
Four creative minds at work: Stefan Krauss, Matthias Frei, Jörg Gellner, and Alexandra Frei (from left).
2 — INSPIRATION Virtual sketches made with real cultured pearls: The birth of the Gellner-line is an exciting process that uses different resources.
3 — EXCHANGE And here, again, Jörg Gellner puts his trust in the collaborative process with self-employed designers. Also belonging to the team are Viola Deutsche, who has been successful with her own brand “Viola Schwalm Schmuck” for many years, and the Spanish jewelry designer, Anna González. While one creates airy and playful touches through the combination of Tahitian and South Sea cultured pearls and steel, the other applies her creativity to sketching fashionable necklaces and bracelets, made from exciting combinations of leather and cultured pearls. Pm
Ideas are discussed, designs analyzed, and decisions made at the creative meeting in Zurich.
4 — CONNECTING Collaborations with freelance designers offer a glimpse into the outside world, and therein lies part of the secret to Gellner’s success. 5 — FASCINATION The beauty and uniqueness of cultured pearls always remains the focus of Gellner’s precious jewelry.
EDITION03 PARTNER: Stephen Birkbeck
the scent of pearls MAKING PERFUME OUT OF CULTURED PEARLS? OR EVEN TO MAKE THE CULTURED PEARLS THEMSELVES GIVE OFF A SCENT? FOR FOUR YEARS, AUSTRALIAN STEPHEN BIRKBECK HAS RESEARCHED AND WORKED ON THIS VERY TASK. AND IT IS NOT HIS ONLY SUCCESSFUL IDEA.
text // Mathias Menzel
NEW PARTNER Atlas South Sea Pearl, led by Stephen Birkbeck, has its headquarters in Australia. With almost 700,000 pearl oysters, it is one of the largest and most innovative pearl producers around. Recently, this listed company became a partner of Gellner. Atlas South Sea Pearl operates several farms that are mainly in Indonesia, including on Bali. It subscribes to the idea of culturing pearls in a socially as well as economically sustainable way. The color spectrum of the cultured pearls from Atlas ranges from white-silver to white-pink.
“What, if I may ask, does a pearl smell like?” — “Like the ocean, very soft, and yes, also seductive,” says Stephen Birkbeck. “Simply amazing.” Birkbeck should know: with his company, Atlas South Sea Pearl, he has been able to produce a perfume with a cultured pearl base. Microscopic, finely ground mother-of-pearl and pearl extracts act as a carrier for fragrant flower essences that are taken from plants around the areas where the cultured pearls originate. Unlike many other perfumes, this 100% natural, milky liquid contains absolutely no alcohol. “After four years of development, our first perfume, ‘Dream Sea,’ is ready for the market,” says Birkbeck. He is even planning a further revolution: Atlas has developed a method called “water pulse emulsion” and patented the
resulting creation as “perl’fume.” Here, cultured pearls are impregnated with a fragrance that they then release. In September 2011 Atlas joined forces with Nomad Two Worlds and after 12 months of market research the joint venture is poised to launch this oceanic fragrance in a range of pearl body care and jewelry designs. The first “scented pearls” will be sold in stores in Australia and the USA by the end of 2012. Atlas will be working together exclusively with Gellner in Germanspeaking countries and Scandinavia. Birkbeck, 52, is relatively new to the cultured pearl business: he has been active at Atlas for five years, and CEO there since the beginning of 2012. Before this, perfumes and creams were his world for a long time. In 1983, he founded
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the first emu farm with his wife, Karen. It was located 950 kilometers north of Perth, in the Outback of Australia. He learned about the beneficial effects of emu oil from the Aborigines, the Australian natives. The Aborigines have used it for centuries to treat pain and illnesses. The cosmetic and healthcare industry got excited, and the oil quickly became an international hit. A second success was sandalwood oil, won from Australian sandalwood trees. With his company, Mount Romance, Birkbeck was the first Australian to supply the French perfume industry with this raw material. This explains his good connections in the world of perfume: the pearl perfume “Dream Sea” was created with the help of Parisian master perfumer, Michel Roudnitska. Roudnitska’s father, Edmund, was perfumer at the Houses of Dior for years, and is still known today as the “Perfume Pope.” THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX Pursuing unusual ideas, looking beyond one’s own point of view, and taking chances: these reflect the philosophy that drives Stephen Birkbeck, and also what connects him to Jörg Gellner. “Who would have thought to combine valuable cultured pearls with plastic? He did it – and with great success!” says Birkbeck. They are also both convinced that the economy in general and the pearl industry in particular must have sustainability: “It is important for everyone on Earth to use natural resources as respectfully as possible,” says Birkbeck. “This is vital when culturing pearls: the oysters are very, very sensitive. If we don’t stop environmental pollution and climate change, we are harming the basic existential needs of the entire pearl industry.” Birkbeck views his responsibility as lying not only in terms of the environment, but also the social level: he has always involved the indigenous people, or Aborigines, as partners in his companies and farms. His sandalwood oil, consequently, came from wild trees that the Aborigines harvested, instead of plantation trees. “With Mount Romance, we gave the Aborigines a new existence based on their ancient knowledge and created a new habitat for them,” says Birkbeck. “They could live from and with nature, as they already did thousands of years ago.”
This commitment has garnered hi many awards, such as “Exporter of the year” in Australia, or the “Cradle to Cradle Award” from the U.N., which rewards particularly sustainable industries, especially those products that can always serve as a launch pad for new products. In other words, where there is no waste in the traditional sense. His “pearl fragrance” idea was entirely consistent with this approach. “Culturing a pearl takes four years and is very careintensive. We do this to achieve 2.5 grams of pearl out of an oyster that weighs 500 grams. 99.5% of this biomass remains unused. Does that make sense?” With “perl’fume,” Stephen Birkbeck provides the best answer himself. Pm
PIONEER AND VISIONARY: STEPHEN BIRKBECK His life is full of firsts: first emu farm in Australia, first Australian perfume exporter to France, and now the first producer of pearl fragrances. Stephen Birkbeck, career optimist, has the extraordinary talent to recognize chances. “One has to look at things in a different light, and think outside of the box,” he says. “Whoever always does the same thing goes under.”
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The Unusual Way Always stage yourself and your Pearl Style in new and different ways.
Every Day Combining cool luster with confident elegance: Easygoing and cool to modern and romantic.
Special Moments Exceptional moments demand deep emotions and special pearls with a lot of glamour.
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EDITION03 STYLE: Dresscode Pearls
the feng-shui of pearl styling AS LONG AS ONE IS NOT TALKING ABOUT THE SORT OF STATEMENT NECKLACE WORN WITH AN OPULENT BALL GOWN, PEARLS FLATTER EVERY SKIN TONE, SUIT EVERY TIME OF DAY AND ALMOST EVERY STYLE.
counted amongst those who liked to wear this look. Decorative versions of this look, that are mostly combined with diamonds or colored stones, were often worn by the Hollywood legend and jewelry-lover, Liz Taylor. Simple pearl stud earrings perfectly conceal large earlobes. They should be avoided, however, by those with a wide face or ears that stick out. Here, the right solution would be to wear long or dangling earrings. They optically elongate the face and emphasize the neck.
text // Irmie Schüch-Schamburek
Style icon Coco Chanel was known for her passion for pearls. This mademoiselle wore them abundantly, preferably in several long strands. She was convinced that pearls gave the facial complexion a magical shine through their bright luster. This was true, however, with only a certain number and size of pearl necklaces ...
Coco Chanel loved pearl necklaces, especially when worn in long strands, and made them popular in the world of fashion.
To obtain this enchanting effect, it is a prerequisite to make the right choice in pearl color. The perfect harmony of both a glowing complexion and the iridescent color play of these “fruits of the sea” is necessary to achieve the full magnificence of cultured pearls. In general, cool color tones suit cool skin undertones, and warm nuances flatter skin with warmer undertones. Cultured pearls are true quickchange artists, harmonizing with a wide palette of skin tones. They are particularly beautiful when there is a certain degree of contrast between the skin color or clothing color. For instance, black Tahitian
cultured pearls with ivory-colored skin, or bright white South Sea pearls with a classic “little black dress” would look fantastic. Great effects are also achieved when color-changing cultured pearl jewelry is combined with current trend colors such as petrol, emerald, nude, tangerine, or violet. The wearer should also be aware that the proportions of the jewelry should harmonize with its design, not only the color. Of course, the criteria here are mainly subjective, rather than objective. Through sophisticated jewelry styling, one’s personality and best features can be perfectly presented. ON THE EARS Earrings count as one of the favorites of jewelry. They can positively accentuate facial proportions and even a hairstyle. Discreet cultured pearl earrings suit every ear, and are attractive both during the day and at night time. Grace Kelly is
It is also important to take hairstyles into account. Cultured pearl “Chandelier” earrings combined with short hair or an uphairdo have become a permanent look on the red carpet. Particularly eye-catching are earrings with large drop-shaped cultured pearls hanging from the ends. Superstars such as Angelina Jolie, Nicole Kidman, or Catherine Zeta-Jones like to wear this look.
Photos: Getty Images (5), Face to Face (1), Lipnitzki/Roger-Viollet (1)
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ARM IN ARM Bracelets are in trend at the moment. Here, it is important to find a balance between body shape and jewelry style. Those who have long, slim arms can wear cultured pearl bracelets with large cultured pearls or with many rows. These also work well on thicker arms, as long as the bracelet is not too wide. With shorter arms, on the other hand, the jewelry should be as delicate as possible with smaller pearls. Women with graceful arms
have the choice, depending on their style personality, to wear delicate or over-proportionally large pieces. Those with strong arms should definitely invest in bracelets that are more conspicuous. Up to date and very popular are bracelets such as Gellner-Pearlmates, made with a macramé knotting technique. Many stars, like Madonna, Paris Hilton and Elle MacPherson wear precious “bead bands” that combine color stones and diamonds with cultured pearls. These bracelets are the perfect all-rounder; they can be worn casually, but also look fabulous with a more elegant wardrobe. Also trendy now: Leather bands with cultured pearls. RING-A-RING-O’-ROSES As with bracelets, one has to pay attention to the proportions of rings. Delicate rings belong on slim fingers – although this refers mainly to the design and not the size of the cultured pearl. Bigger hands can show off creations with a larger format. Short fingers should steer clear of wide rings and should not wear more than one ring at a time on each hand. Cultured pearl rings offer a variety of styles, with a palette, ranging from classic and simple or avant-garde and extravagant to even opulent eye-catchers. Also very stylish and offering a special view to the beholder: several rings with solitary pearls stacked on one finger.
From top to bottom: Hoops in 18K rose gold with South Sea cultured pearls and diamonds; bracelets with Tahitian cultured pearls and inlayed diamonds; diamond clasps in 18K white or rose gold with South Sea and Tahitian cultured pearls.
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From top to bottom: Rings in 18K white gold with South Sea and Tahitian cultured pearls and diamonds; ring in 18K rose gold with South Sea cultured pearls and brilliants; diamond necklaces with Tahiti and South Sea cultured pearls; oxidized silver necklace with “anchor” pendant made of oxidized silver with Fiji-cultured pearl and black diamonds from the “You rock by Marcus Schenkenberg” collection.
ADORNED DÉCOLLETÉS Cultured pearls look their most magnificent when used in necklaces. They not only frame the décolleté, but also the head. They are also a decorative eye-catcher that gives clothing a luxurious touch. This is why hair cut, hairstyle and the form of a collar on clothing play a significant role in the selection of cultured pearl jewelry. Necklaces are also a favorite of the VIPs. Scarlett Johansson, Michelle Obama, and Sarah Jessica Parker like to present themselves wearing several long pearl necklaces. This emphasizes their slim silhouette and also suits women with a shorter neck or wider shoulders. Up-hairdos make necks appear longer and are a pretty frame for short, ornamental necklaces.
Bloom and George Clooney are also fans of precious cultured pearl bracelets. Supermodel Marcus Schenkenberg and the German-Brazilian soccer player Cacau both prefer a more extravagant style. Their “jewelry style” is based on stunning Tahitian and Fiji-cultured pearls, black diamonds, mystical symbols made out of oxidized silver, and dark leather. Masculine cultured pearl jewelry offers men a wonderful opportunity to express their individual personality, without conforming to the usual fashion norms. In the future, it is very possible that male jewelry will become a natural part of styling, or even be used to give a fashionable touch to a business look. Pm
Due to their size and unusual coloring, Tahitian cultured pearls are noticeably elegant and mysterious. They wrap the wearer in a mysterious and luxurious flair. Natalie Portman and Sharon Stone are both pearl enthusiasts who cannot escape the charm of Tahitian cultured pearls. They wear extraordinary and impressive Tahitian cultured pearl necklaces. Generally speaking, those who have a small frame can wear smaller, more delicate pearl necklaces, whereas those who have more feminine curves can show more material on their décolleté. It is always important to make sure that cultured pearl jewelry does not compete with the wearer’s clothing. MEN ONLY Adornment with precious jewelry is not limited to women these days. An increasing number of men are enthusiastic about high-end jewelry. Fashion guru Karl Lagerfeld and singer David Guetta are both bead-band fans. Actors Orlando
BE MAGIC!
Succumb to the natural magic of spell-binding Tahitian cultured pearls. This variable, 42-centimeter-long necklace combines the bewitching color spectrum of large (up to 14 millimeter) cultured pearls with sparkling beads made with brown and black diamonds. Our special price to you from 990 Euro.
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