Vol. 13 | The Road Trip Issue
The Essence of Living Locally
www.tellnewengland.com
- A Magazine for New England -
Road Trips. A L E T T E R F ROM TH E EDITOR New England is unique in that you can travel from end to end in a day. Its compact size enables any resident or visitor to be in Rhode Island in the morning and northern Maine in the afternoon. But, we’d be lying if we said we encouraged that. Over the years we’ve become increasing fans of slowing down – when we hop out of bed in the morning, in our daily routine, when indulging in each home-cooked meal, and now, even when we hop in our cars heading for the next destination. Because, when you hurry through life, you miss a lot of the beauty that’s masked in the mundane. This issue pays homage to the beauty of New England’s back roads. The winding roads that meander past farmlands, forest and crumbling stone walls. The roads that suddenly become dirt and take you to destinations unfound. These roads hold a bit of our history, untouched by modern technologies and industrialization. They hold landscapes rich with photo opportunities around every corner and a true discovery of the New England region. Next time you hit the road, we urge you to slow down. Bypass the 95s or 93s, and opt for the true New England adventure on our lesser-known back roads. Drive safe and enjoy.
Table of Contents The Long Way Home Words and Photos by Ashley Herrin PG. 8
Backroads of New England Words and Photos by Jenn Bakos PG. 58
Backroads of Somerset County Words and Photos by Jess Beer PG. 22
Reful and Recharge: Snacks for the Road Words and Photos by Ashley Herrin PG. 68
Peanut Butter and Jelly Crispy Brown Rice Bars Recipe by Twin Tastes Phots by Jenn Bakos PG. 34 Boston Potter’s Restaurant Trail Words and Photos by Tina Picz-Devoe PG. 38
A Local’s Guide to Central Vermont Words and Photos by Kelby Zimmerman PG. 74 Four-Legged Exploration in CT Words by t.e.l.l. New England Photos by Joy Gora PG. 86
THE LONG WAY HOME Words and Photos by Ashley Herrin
Every summer, when weekends allow, I
dash to get home — to pick up the kids
make the pilgrimage to my family’s cot-
from your in-laws, the dog from the
tage on the lake. The journey north from
kennel, or just to get home in time to
Boston is congested with tired city folk
catch the end of the Sox game. We’ve all
escaping the over-heating sidewalks and
done it, we’ve all been there.
brownstones, the over-stuffed Orange and Green lines and the general buzz-
This season, my last trip to the lake
ing of Monday through Friday. It’s a mad
was in early October. After shooting a
dash out of the city – in an attempt to
wedding in the neighboring town with
make it to the weekend sanctuary as
a fellow Bostonian, we decided to stop
quickly as possible.
into the cabin for the night’s rest. It was a quiet night void of summer-evening
The return trip is often times the same.
laughter and the sounds of crackling
Heading south from Ossipee’s lakes re-
fire. With the exception of the loon call-
gion, I’m typically greeted with highway
ing out into the October night, the lake
back-ups as soon as Portsmouth. For
was silent, even a touch eerie.
those who have escaped to Maine for a long weekend or week away at the
In the morning, I walked out onto the
beach, this scene is something you’ve
dock to take in the view like I do every
experienced all too often. It’s a mad
visit. Autumn’s color dotted some of the
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trees that lined the lake. A light rain fell
explored the beachfront area with free
as the chill of the morning’s air acted
reign. The rental canoes still leaned
as the cup of coffee I needed to wake
up against the trees where one would
myself up fully.
find them during the summer months, and the camp store looked as if it were
We gathered our belongings and closed
boarded up for winter only minutes
up the cabin – I said my goodbyes until
prior. Summer had just departed White
next time, and we headed for home. It
Lake, and winter’s embrace was begin-
was early in the morning, which meant
ning to move in.
we could be home in Boston within two hours if we kept the car pointed south.
White Lake mimicked the lake that I
But this journey was going to be different.
call home – a singular loon floated on the water’s surface, every now and then
Instead of heading south on Route 16,
calling out to let us know it was there. A
we turned north. With no real destina-
light rain fell and a mist danced of the
tion in mind, we embarked on our long
water, floating into the tree line dotted
journey home.
with the dull hues of autumn.
Our first stop was White Lake State
A family’s laughter from the far end of
Park. Although closed for the regular
the beach broke the silence and our Zen
season, the park’s roads were still open.
moment. We nodded in agreement and
With no one in the park except us, we
headed for the car… on to the next stop.
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Departing 16 north, we turned left onto Route 113 with a new destination in mind: Tamworth, New Hampshire. This tiny town nestled in the foothills of Mount Chocorua has so much to offer. The Tamworth Lyceum serves soups and sandwiches made from the freshest local ingredients, delicious coffees, select groceries and a wonderful line of dry goods perfect for any New England adventurer. A few buildings down resides Tamworth Distilling. Owned and operated by the same crew running the Lyceum, the distillery produces an incredible line of small-batch, handcrafted spirits using locally-sourced ingredients. During the warmer months, a farmers market takes place every weekend and of course, Chocorua Lake is just a few short minutes from town center. For those unfamiliar with the area, go here. The 5-minute detour from Route 16 is worth it. In Tamworth, we stopped by the Lyceum for breakfast and coffee, and popped into the Distillery to grab some early Christmas gifts. Back on the road, we continued onto Cleveland Hill Road. Pavement quickly turned into dirt and gravel and our excitement levels grew not knowing where the road would take us. These New England back roads didn’t disappoint. We traversed over small bridges, past farms and pastures where cows and horses grazed. The colors of autumn seemed to pop here in the back woods more than they had at the lakes. The road curved through the woods and came to a stop sign. “Right!” we decided. So right we went. A covered bridge sign marker appeared in our viewpoint so we detoured to see it, making our journey home even longer — yet something we were even bothered by.
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We continued on Route 113 West eventually greeting Squam Lake and its’ cottages all boarded up for winter. Winding roads took us to Holderness where we finally decided to stop for lunch. Overlooking the docks and the lake, we weighed our travel options‌ head over to 93 and then south to Boston or continue to take the long way home. We chose the latter. The remainder of the day continued much like this. Back roads eventually led us to intersections where signs for 93 called out to us in an attempt to transport us back to Boston. And each time, we opted to take the long way home. That Sunday we meandered and slowed down. We took notice and were observers of New England and the scenes of the season. We discovered new places and allowed the region to dictate our journey. That Sunday we took the roads less traveled by. And come Monday, that had made all the difference.
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BACKROADS OF SOMERSET COUNTY A S T ORY F R OM MAIN E’ S BACK R OADS Words and Photos by Jess Beer
When it comes to driving through Maine, my mind instantly wanders to the tree lined dirt roads, twisting through the mountain sides and up along cold stoned river beds. I think of the Maine state gazetteer, with 70 gridded topographic sections intricately depicting unmarked logging roads, state maintained campsites and waterfalls tucked away like hidden gems deep in the backcountry. I believe that Western Maine embodies the idea of pure untamed wilderness, with locations only reachable by back roads, most commonly taken by timber loggers and the occasional explorer seeking destinations often unknown and even less commonly visited. With little to no set direction but the desire to explore, my dear friend and I choose section 30 from the gazetteer, pack our bags and set off on an adventure.
We spend hours navigating through unmarked roadways, committing fallen trees, large boulders and colored markers to memory. These often unnoticed details are essential, and help us keep track of where we have gone and have yet to go. As we drive we reference the gazetteer, scouting out geographical landmarks like camping spots, boat portages, and waterfalls along our current route. These roads, paved with roughly grated dirt and washboards wild enough to rattle every nut and bolt in your car lose, are mesmerizing and enchanting in their own way. We pass large fields overlooking distant mountain ranges and desolate outcroppings of former lush forest growth. Logging is still active in this part of Maine, and we watch the road ahead of us with cautious eyes. Slices of Pierce Pond can be seen through tall standing trees and encompass you in a tizzy of varying landscapes. We pull over often to embrace the beauty around us, and collect small findings as we go. We continue on a coarse road until we find a wide shoulder to pull off on near an unmarked trailhead, seemingly just a few short miles from the river front. Hiking is quickly replaced with bushwhacking, as we pull broken timbers and hanging branches out of the way. We slide down steep embankments, grasping for outstretched roots and tree limbs for leverage and support. The sounds of leaves crunching under foot are muffled by laughs and an ever constant exchange of words. Stories and recollections of previous travels are shared and plans for future trips are constructed.
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“
These roads, paved with roughly grated dirt and washboards wild enough to rattle every nut and bolt in your car lose, are mesmerizing and enchanting in their own way. We pass large fields overlooking distant mountain ranges and desolate outcroppings of former lush forest growth. Logging is still active in this part of Maine, and we watch the road ahead of us with cautious eyes.
Moss and lichen coat the rocks around us, as water crashes over a waterfall’s edge into deep pools of green. Small rock outcroppings provide us with opportunities to add a hint of risk to our adventure, as we plummet into the cold mountain run off. The water is ice cold, leaving us in a temporary mixture of both shock and adrenaline. Slowly we work our way downstream from the swimming hole and around a large bend until voices are heard from behind us. We pause to watch as small boats crash over white caps and idle in the spiral of small whirlpools created around rocky rapids. In contrast to the name, the Dead River is very much alive and full of action. We work our way back up to the truck and continue on down winding roads, stopping occasionally to observe the view of neighboring mountain ranges or scope out potential camping spots. I have kept a pen on hand all day, noting our discoveries with the date in my gazetteer for future reference. This new habit was developed as a way to document the places in which I visit while traveling throughout the state, transforming each page into a time capsule of memories.
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As we drive, we are tossed left and right while the truck navigates through potholes large enough to be considered topographical landmarks. We drive down small roadways, just barely wider than the width of the vehicle and listen as the branches of hanging evergreens wipe away collected dust from the body of the truck. Our eyes dart along the road ahead of us and into the thick tree line. With each narrow road we pass, we question where that road leads and what lies at its end. As the hazy sun has begun to make its descent below the horizon line, we head towards a campsite previously scouted out during our travels earlier that day. It’s a large plot is encased by tall pines and plenty of space for our small two person tent. As we sit by a roaring fire, our voices are lost in the crackle and burn of dried timber foraged from the woods around us. We indulging on camp burritos and admire the constellations above us, each star millions of light years away from us. In this very moment I reflect on our day and can’t help but feel at ease within the backcountry of Western Maine. With our camp location being no more than a five minute jaunt to the upper edge of Pierce Pond, we fall asleep to the timeless sound of the Maine Loon and the smell of a smoldering fire.
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Peanut Butter and Jelly Crispy Brown Rice Bars Recipe by Kara & Marni Powers, Twin Tastes Photos by Jenn Bakos
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Peanut Butter & Jelly Crispy Brown Rice Bars INGREDIENTS:
½ cup coconut oil 10 oz marshmallows 1 cup peanut butter 1 tsp. vanilla extract 6 cups brown puffed rice cereal
½ cup raspberry preserves 1 tsp. Didi Davis’ Vanilla Salt (or your favorite finishing/sea salt)
METHOD: In a deep saucepan over medium heat, add the coconut oil, marshmallows and stir with a wooden spoon until marshmallows are melted. Add the peanut butter and vanilla, remove from heat, and stir to combine. Stir in the puffed brown rice cereal and make sure all pieces are evenly coated. Spoon half of the mixture into a greased 9×9-inch pan and press down with parchment to create an even, flat base. Pour the jam on top and spread an even layer across. Spoon the other half of the peanut butter and crispy rice mixture on top of the jam and push down with the parchment until evenly flat. Place in the refrigerator to cool completely, about 35 minutes. Cut into pieces and serve. Makes 18-20 bars, depending on how large you would like them.
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BOSTON POTTER’S RESTAURANT TRAIL F ROM POTTERY WH EEL TO TABL E: T H E J OU R N E Y OF J E R EMY O GUSK Y’ S CER AMIC WAR ES Words and Photos by Tina Picz-Devoe
Most of the time, I seek road trips to get away from the city for a bit, but there are days when exploring my own area can inspire just as much as a long drive out to the wilderness. Living in Cambridge, Massachusetts, there are so many city side roads to stroll with hidden gems to discover, as lots of new businesses, eateries and small shops seem to be popping up constantly in the Boston area. Several times in my local exploration of restaurants and gift shops, I’ve come across the work of ceramicist Jeremy Ogusky, also known as “Boston Potter”, whom I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know over the last year or so. The other day I was able to catch up with Jeremy, the owner and one-man operator of Ogusky Ceramics, at his home studio in Jamaica Plain, Boston. When I arrived, Jeremy was chatting with his aunt and working on some mugs that are sold at a women-owned shop called “Olives & Grace” in the South End. You’re almost certain to run into Jeremy’s work if you’re road tripping throughout Boston, Brookline, Cambridge or Jamaica Plain, as his wares are now sold and utilized in many shops and restaurants.
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Jeremy has a way of bringing like-minded folks together and building community, as he is also founder of The Boston Fermentation Festival (www.bostonferments.com) which began in 2013. Aside from the annual festival, Boston Ferments also hosts many events throughout the city like workshops and dinners at which guests are taught the ins and outs of the ancient art of fermenting and prepare a jar of sauerkraut to take home. I was able to attend a Fermenting Dinner held at Aurum Pies at which I made my first batch of kraut as a group collaboration and it was a great learning experience. Having previously been a public health and AIDS worker in Africa for many years, Jeremy views his handmade pottery and fermentation as a form of political activism, teaching the general public ways to take our health into our own hands at a nutritional level by incorporating homemade, healthy, probiotic food into our lives. One of his signature ceramic pieces is a large fermentation crock, sold at Williams Sonoma, and used for fermenting and pickling vegetables. He is a huge advocate for spreading the word about the amazing health benefits of traditional fermented foods, as history shows most of our ancestors used quite regularly. Fermented foods are probiotic and contain billions of live active cultures (like those found in yogurt) and help to nutritionally cleanse digestive organs (the gut) by replacing bacteria with healthier bacteria (gut flora/the good germs) that fight off illness by strengthening immunity. Boston Ferments encourages and educates the masses about age-old methods of healing and illness prevention that anyone can practice at home, from pickled veggies and fruits to sauces, shrubs, vinegars and home-brewed mead.
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I love fermented foods, especially when used in interesting ways to create a meal, and it’s always a pleasure to have my food plated beautifully on handmade pottery, as it adds such a nice homemade feel to a dish. Some restaurants that use Ogusky Ceramics in his own neighborhood are Aurum Pies and Brassica Kitchen. These two eateries boast unique dishes using many locally sourced farm ingredients, like Brassica’s Cauliflower Toast — a cauliflower puree with pickled raisin in champagne vinegar, parsley and parmesan; or their Lamb Ham Toast with leg of lamb cured for 3 weeks along with a pickled black rice and plum vinegar; and Pork Belly from a Maine family farm with pickled onions and Ward’s Farm Delicata Squash. Durum Pies offers delicious hand pies made to order with fresh fillings like portobello mushroom, red pepper, spinach, BBQ horseradish and cheddar, or veggie/rice bowls and flatbreads. Another wonderful establishment in Boston is Townsman and I appreciate how Pastry Chef, Meg Alyssa uses Jeremy’s Infinity Plates to display her gorgeous desserts so artfully. Jeremy has also recently made some Geta Sushi Plates for the ever popular Cafe Sushi in Cambridge, and has collaborated with so many eateries that he now has a large collection of logo stamps piling up in his studio. From his oil decanters at American Provisions in Southie, to mugs at Tres Gatos — a Spanish tapas spot with a record/book shop, to giant Beer Steins at JP Beer Garden and Clay Growlers at Kirkland Tap & Trotter, there are countless uses for his ceramics and so much delicious food to try!
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On the following page is a map of the wide variety of restaurants that are absolutely worth checking out on your road trip to the Boston area, where you may find your meal plated on Ogusky Ceramics. Or if you live here, you may enjoy getting to know your local makers and small business owners by visiting some of these spots or open studios and community events nearby. As a maker, foodie and food grower myself, I find it inspiring that makers, shops, farms and restaurants are collaborating and continually working on new projects which support our local economy and environment while educating our community about food sustainability. On the rise in Boston is a creative movement of craftsmen and women, artisans, chefs and home-grown, family-run businesses, and it’s an encouraging site to see. Take a trip here and see for yourself!
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RESTAURANTS VIS IT A N Y OF T H E S E B O S TON-AR EA R ESTAUR AN TS T O F IND J E R E MY ’ S C E R AM I C WAR ES IN USE.
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Brassica Kitchen
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Pink Samurai
3
Tres Gatos
4
Aurum
5
Saloniki Greek
6
Uni
7
Grill 23 & Bar
8
Townsman
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Yvonne’s
3710 Washington Street, Jamaica Plain, MA
658 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, MA
470 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, MA
377 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, MA
4 Kilmarnock Street, Boston, MA
370 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, MA
161 Berkeley Street, Boston, MA
120 Kingston Street, Boston, MA
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Liberty Hotel & Clink Restaurant
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Bambara
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Bondir
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Waypoint
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Cafe Suhsi
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The Kirkland Tap & Trotter
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Union Square Donuts
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La Brasa
215 Charles Street, Boston, MA
25 Edwin H Land Boulevard, Cambridge, MA
279A Broadway, Cambridge, MA
1030 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, MA
1105 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, MA
425 Washington Street, Somerville, MA
20 Bow Street, Somerville, MA
124 Broadway, Somerville, MA
2 Winter Place, Boston, MA
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BACKROADS OF NEW ENGLAND Words and Photos by Jenn Bakos
Growing
up in New England, I’ve
On days where adventure sneaks into
stumbled upon many back roads and
the schedule, I’ll take the opportunity
lesser-known routes where you’re able
to go for a back-roads drive. One where
to leave cars behind for miles. These
I’ll roll down the windows a bit to
were mainly found in the towns that I
capture some of that fresh air, listen to
knew well, but discovering new paths
that perfect road trip playlist and get
and hidden roads when time allows has
lost in the beauty of our region.
become of growing interest to me as my roots widen here in New England.
Some days, the itch to keep turning the corner to see what’s around the bend
Autumn is especially perfect for ex-
just doesn’t stop. I’ll spend hours on my
ploring since it’s a time of change and
journey to nowhere. Some roads seem
reflection, and offers a slowing down
to cut deep through the woods, shrouded
after the busy summer months. And, of
by trees and a sort of darkness. It offers
course, it’s prime leaf-peeping season.
a quiet solitude from the hurry of our
The explosion of color highlights some
day-to-day lives. Some roads leave
of the most beautiful New England
behind homes for what seems like miles
vistas. But, the beauty doesn’t stop in
and miles. The only marker and indica-
autumn. As the season transitions into
tion of people are the old crumbling
winter, and the temperatures begin
stonewalls to guide the way. And other
to drop and perhaps a fresh snowfall
times, these roadways, have led me to a
dusts the landscape, there is still so
hidden home that the owners want to
much continued beauty to document
keep away from the spoil of the masses.
on our roads.
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Our winding back roads are reminiscent of Robert Frost’s poem, and the way our region looked when it was primarily farmland and dotted by livestock. A crumbling stonewall would eventually reveal a sagging barn surrounded by trees and being consumed by the forest. I roll by slowly, dirt and fallen leaves crunching under tire; as if not to disturb the scene and also to breathe-in this little plot of regional history. A few times, I’d never see another car, so stopping to photograph the sights, take in my surroundings and just listen to the leaves rustle in the breeze was a common occurrence. Sometimes I’d be joined by the occasional herd of cows or person on horseback, but usually the old back roads are lightly traveled. And other times, the car-scraping bumps and narrow turns proved to be too much for my nerves. After a while, the network of roads tends to lead back to some main drag and I’d meet the pavement again. That always proves to be a solemn moment. But I know, there’s still so much of New England to discover, so many more back roads to explore and many more ‘just another bend…’ afternoons to be had again soon.
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Refuel & Recharge: Snacks for the Road
Words by t.e.l.l. New England Photos by Ashley Herrin
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NOT YOUR SUGAR MAMAS Mylk Chocolate & Almond Bark Not Your Sugar Mama’s produces hand-made super food chocolates on Martha’s Vineyard. All of NYSM’s products are free of refined sugars, are dairy & gluten free and made of the finest all-natural ingredients. Their Mylk Chocolate and Almond Bark is the perfect treat for any of your New England travels. www.notyoursugarmamas.com
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FASTACHI Sesame Honey Crunch Bars Skip the convenience store and head to Fastachi, located in Watertown, MA and Boston’s Beacon Hill neighborhood, for your fix of nut mixes, bars and roasted nuts and seeds. Hand-made in Watertown, Fastachi offers a wide range of roadtrip ready products, made of the freshest and finest ingredients. www.fastachi.com
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AVA’S CARAMEL POPCORN Sea Salt Caramel Popcorn Ava’s Caramel Popcorn is the perfect small-batch road-trip snack made in Arlington, Massachusetts. It begins with the caramel sauce — a from-scratch creation made of the finest and freshest ingredients like vanilla and sea salt. All of Ava’s products are made to order, ensuring the freshest product upon purchase. www.avaspopcorn.com
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BLUE BANDANA CHOCOLATE 82% Madagascar Wild Pepper Dark Chocolate Bar Blue Bandana Chocolate Maker sources cacao beans directly from the farmers who grow them, and are small-batch produced into award-winning chocolate bars Burlington, Vermont. This wild pepper variety adds a spicy quality to the bar... helping to keep your taste buds awake during those long cross-state treks. www.lakechamplainchocolates.com
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LAKE CHAMPLAIN CHOCOLATES Dark Chocolate Sea Salt Caramels These easy-to-eat (on the go or elsewhere) dark chocolate caramels are crafted by hand in Lake Champlain’s Burlington, Vermont kitchen. The caramels are cooled overnight, individually cut and drenched... twice... in dark chocolate and sprinkled with sea salt. www.lakechamplainchocolates.com
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SWEET LYDIA’S HANDCRAFTED S’MORES Peanut Butter S’More These sweet treats are handcrafted in Lowell, Massachusetts, and pay homage to one of America’s favorite fire-side desert. What began as gifts for friends and family, Sweet Lydia’s soon took off and now offers gourmet marshmallows, toffee, caramels, candy bars and of course, s’mores. www.sweetlydias.com
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FASTACHI Natural Dried Sour Apples Fastachi’s all-natural and organic dried fruits are the perfect snack for anyone on the go. These dried sour apples are packed with flavor and nutritional value — apples are an excellent source of soluble fiber, great for heart and brain health among other traits. www.fastachi.com
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VERMONT SMOKE & CURE Uncured Pepperoni, BBQ, Cracked Pepper Vermont Smoke and Cure has been crafting smoked meats and snacks for over five decades right here in New England. Their approach: they use humanely raised meats whenever possible, and simple, local ingredients such as Vermont maple syrup to craft their recipes. Their line of beef, pork and turkey sticks are the perfect to-go snack for any New England adventure. www.vermontsmokeandcure.com
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A LOCAL’S GUIDE TO CENTRAL VERMONT W H E RE T O S TOP, WHAT TO SEE & THIN GS TO DO Words and Photos by Kelby Zimmerman
It’s
about the journey, not the destination. Road trips serve as a true
embodiment of this saying. We are all guilty of finding ourselves in a hurry from point A to B, yet we know some of the best memories come from the unexpected interim. Having moved to Vermont just over a year ago, the charm of the journey has become more apparent than ever. Acclaimed restaurants and breweries span multiple miles apart. As such, some decent consideration should be taken in planning a trip around here. It took a bit of time for me to uncover the true gems one can’t find via online research. In fact, I’ve caught myself saying more than once, “Vermont is just not Google-able.” What’s more, locals aren’t eager to divulge their top recommendations. The best spots are often those hidden from touristy crowds, after all. A year of observation and word of mouth helped me discover these destinations and the lesser-known routes to get to them. Grab a friend and a few snacks. Buckle up and experience my local’s guide to Central Vermont, beginning in Quechee. Quechee has a few spots I like to visit frequently, one of them being the Quechee Gorge. The bridge can be busy with tourists, but I nevertheless suggest walking it, rain or shine. Some of the best views of Vermont’s Little Grand Canyon are caught on the cloudiest, foggiest, most drizzly of days. Be on the lookout for an occasional hot air balloon floating by, especially in early morning. I suggest going a bit further than most visitors do - under the bridge. In the 1700s, this once wooden trestle bridge attracted onlookers from all around the world, itching to see a train loftily glide across the gaping gorge. Today, the bridge’s industrial replacement is just as admirable from the paths that run along the ravine’s sidewalls.
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Continue on through Quechee, past Simon Pearce and toward the Taftsville Covered Bridge. You’ll come across a couple charming barns before reaching Deweys Landing, a picturesque spot to stretch the legs, take a walk, and let your pup out if you brought him along. Continue over the red covered bridge onto Route 4 toward Woodstock, one of the quaintest New England towns imaginable. Behind the Woodstock Historical Society, you’ll find a small park with the absolute best view of Woodstock’s covered bridge. Drive past the jersey cows at Billings Farm and turn left at the Golden Cow Barn onto Cloudland Road, where you’ll be tempted to stop every few minutes and take in the views. Aerosmith guitarist Joe Perry’s old home, Sleepy Hollow Farm, will be on your right. You can recognize it by his guitar shaped pond. The Appalachian Trail also crosses the road further up. Following the trail to the left a bit will lead you to a panoramic view of the Green Mountains. Driving to the top of Cloudland Road leads you to Cloudland Farm on your right. Grab a cut of their grass-fed Angus in the market or snag a dinner reservation at their BYOB restaurant. At the very least, admire the beautiful view from their wraparound porch. Head back down the road and drive toward the Barnard General Store via Route 12. I recommend grabbing some snacks or coffee and picnicking across the street on Silver Lake. Continue on Route 12 and turn left on 107 toward the Pittsfield General Store, a hip country store with topnotch, locally made goods. An email to owners Kevin and Katie could score you a dinner reservation at The Backroom, an intimate 20-seat restaurant behind this very store.
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Continue onto Route 100 and find Kent Pond to your left. Locals love taking in the sites by land, canoe, or paddle board here. As you turn left onto Route 4, you’ll see the entrance to Killington. The mountain opens for the season in late October, and the slopes already look set for (what we hope to be) an epic winter. Route 4 will take you back to Woodstock. Farmhouse Pottery and the Woodstock Farmers’ Market will be on your right as you head toward town. Poke into both and grab what you fancy. Jasper Hill’s Harbison and blue cheese sausage are my top picks from the market! If you’re feeling like you need to stay the night after an eventful day, reserve a room at the Jackson House Inn. Otherwise, I suggest stopping by Woodstock’s Hops N’ Barley on your way back. They have an awesome selection of Vermont beer and cider to bring home with you. If I’m talking to a true beer advocate, Lawson’s Finest delivers Sip of Sunshine every other Monday at noon. Grazing cows and weathered barns are abundant. Rolling hills and sprawling pastures surround the roads that wind with the river. All in all, there are so many sights to see on your way from point A to B. View Vermont in a new light and enjoy the ride!
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CENTRAL VERMONT LOOP T H E LO CAL’ S G U I DE T O C E N TR AL VER MON T.
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Quechee Gorge Village 5573 Woodstock Road, Quechee, VT
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Barnard General Store
2
Taftsville Covered Bridge
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Original General Store
3
Woodstock Historical Society
7
Killington Ski Area
4
Cloudland Farm
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Woodstock Hops N’ Barley
Woodstock, VT
26 Elm Street, Woodstock, VT
1101 Cloudland Road, Woodstock, VT
6231 VT Route 12, Barnard, VT
3963 VT-100, Pittsfield, VT
4763 Killington Road, Killington, VT
446 Woodstock Road, Woodstock, VT
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FOUR-LEGGED EXPLORATIONS IN CONNECTICUT D O G -F R I E N DLY E XPLOR ATION S IN CON N ECTICUT Words by t.e.l.l. New England Photos by Joy Gora
Most road trips are better when you have someone you trust riding shotgun, and, oftentimes during these excursions, we find our co-pilot to be our four-legged best friend as opposed to the human-alternative. During trips like these, the destination is just as important as who’s sitting in the passenger seat, and in a handful of towns in Connecticut, they’ve carved out a multitude of places where your furry friend is welcome in the store just like any of your not-so-furry friends. Take a journey and explore some of Connecticut’s best, from a pups point-of-view.
CHESTER, CONNECTICUT Chester, Connecticut is a small, rural New England town brimming with unique shops, restaurants, galleries and even lodging opportunities for out-of-towners. Dining in Chester during the warmer months? Have a dog in tow? This should not be a problem as there are over 30 restaurants in the Chester and surrounding areas that welcome you’re four-legged friend(s). Additionally, most shops and galleries welcome pups to the town with fresh water bowls and there is even a cooling station/fan where your friend can cool off and beat the heat in the summer.
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CLINTON, CONNECTICUT Head south to the coastal town of Clinton, Connecticut and you’ll find yourself immersed in one of New England’s most intimate and beautiful vineyards; Chamard Vineyards. Chamard Vineyards produces a New England varietal of Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Better yet, this vineyard is dog friendly. Dogs are allowed to dine in the barn and also on the vineyard’s grounds. Enjoy fine wine, live music during the warmer months and the company of your furry friend when you stop into Chamard.
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EAST HADDAM, CONNECTICUT Want to stretch your legs? Head to Gillette Castle State Park in East Haddam, Connecticut. Noted actor, director & playwright, William Hooker Gillette, who famously portrayed Sherlock Holmes on stage, built the 184-acre estate, dubbed the Seventh Sister, in the early 1900s. This twenty four-room mansion and the surrounding estate is reminiscent of a medieval castle. Visitors to the park, along with their four-legged friends, are welcome to walk the grounds and the neighboring trails‌ only catch, dogs needs to remain outdoors during any interior explorations.
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ESSEX, CONNECTICUT Head to Essex, another quaint little coastal New England town that is also dog friendly. Strolling the main strip of shops, galleries and restaurants, you’ll find most offer fresh water bowls and benches for Fido to hang out, and cool out, by. Looking for some reprieve from the bitter cold or unbearable summer humidity? Head to The Cooper & Smith Gallery and browse fine art inspired by drawing-based disciplines. Dogs are welcome inside, too!
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MADISON, CONNECTICUT Madison, another coastal town occupying a portion of Long Island Sound shoreline, is also home to Hammonasset Beach State Park, the state’s longest public beach. At Hammonsasset, leashed dogs are welcome in picnic areas, ball fields, nature trails, and bike paths year-round. From November 1st until the end of March, dogs are permitted on the beaches. Looking to stay in the area? Head to Madison Beach Hotel, where a small offering of rooms also happen to be dog-friendly.
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OLD LYME & LYME, CONNECTICUT Old Lyme and Lyme offer some of New England’s most picturesque landscapes. These neighboring historic towns are packed with forgotten country roads, farms and scenic coastline. Head to the Old Lyme Ice Cream Shoppe, where dogs are permitted inside and out, and grab yourself a cool summer treat. Looking for lodging? Hawk’s Nest Beach Resort in Old Lyme offers rentals that are also pet friendly.
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OLD SAYBROOK, CONNECTICUT As your day winds down, head to Saybrook Point in Old Saybrook to catch sunset overlooking the boats and the piers. Or opt to take scenic Route 154 that winds around the town and watch as the day’s final rays light up the Atlantic. Spend the night at the Saybrook Point Inn and Spa, and indulge in a night of luxury with your companions – two-legged or four.
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VOL. 13: THE ROAD TRIP ISSUE
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS, PHOTOGRAPHERS, RECIPE CRAFTERS Jess Beer Kara and Marni Powers, Twin Tastes Tina Picz-Devoe Kelby Zimmerman Joy Gora
EDITORIAL TEAM MANAGING EDITOR Mandi Tompkins FOUNDING PARTNERS Jenn Bakos & Ashley Herrin
LET’S CHAT! SUBMISSIONS submit@tellnewengland.com GENERAL INQUIRIES info@tellnewengland.com MANDI Mandi@tellnewengland.com ASHLEY Ashley@tellnewengland.com JENN Jenn@tellnewengland.com
- A Magazine for New England -
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