Vol. 14 | The Cabin Fever Issue
The Essence of Living Locally
www.tellnewengland.com
- A Magazine for New England -
Cabin fever. A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Winter has arrived. Temperatures have dropped. And a fresh blanket of snow has carpeted much of our region. It’s a lovely, underrated time of year. But while every New England winter comes with an assortment of coveted indoor activities — cozying up by the fire, cooking a warm, hearty meal, or even just napping — we all reach a point when we just need a little fresh air. It seemingly happens around the same time every year. It creeps in at the beginning of February, right after the groundhog declares six more weeks of winter. More snow next week? More shoveling, more freezing temperatures, more staying indoors. We have cabin fever. But us New Englanders are a stir crazy bunch. We get the deep desire to throw open our doors and windows, the stale winter are moving out with it as we declare our escape. Despite the cold and the snow, we take to the trails, to the woods or to the beach. We strap on our snowshoes, our cross-country skis and our heaviest winter coats. We get outside and take in every ounce of fresh air, every ounce of serene beauty, and every ounce of the wilderness that winter has to offer. We don’t stop for winter. We’re New Englanders.
Table of Contents Meet the Local: Sally Manikian & the Shady Pines Sled Dog Team Words by Ashley Herrin Photos by Jenn Bakos & Ashley Herrin PG. 8 Winter Wanderings Words and Photos by Ashley Herrin PG. 24 Plum Island Winter Words and Photos by Michelle Martin PG. 34
Winter’s Pace Words and Photos by Stephanie Krist PG. 64 Adventure Guide: Winter Paddle Words by Tina Picz-Devoe Photos by Tina and Jon Devoe PG. 74 New England Bracer (how to beat cabin fever) Words and Photos by Tricia Cronin PG. 82
Adventure Guide: Hut-to-Hut Words and Photos by Jess Beer PG. 42
Root Vegetable Soup Recipe by Amanda Barker Photos by Jenn Bakos PG. 90
Backwoods Granola Recipe and Photos by Jess Beer PG. 56
Tuckerman Words and Photos by Ashley Herrin PG. 94
Adventure Guide: Mt. Chase Lodge Words by Shannon Brown Illustrations by Ashley Herrin PG. 60
MEET THE LOCAL
SALLY MANIKIAN & THE SHADY PINES SLED DOG TEAM Words by Ashley Herrin Photos by Jenn Bakos & Ashley Herrin
Sally Manikian starts her mornings unlike most New Englanders. The majority of us wake with things like day care logistics, navigating the morning commute or that 9:30AM meeting on our mind. For Sally, things are a little different. She wakes and she thinks of racing. She thinks of snow flying in the air as it’s kicked up in a hurried pace. She thinks of that biting chill wrapping it’s winter arms around her as she cuts through New England’s beautiful landscape. But of course, she thinks of her pack of four-legged friends that power her morning, and her day. These dogs are her engine, her energy source and her means to go from point A to B. Sally hold’s a job unique to New England and regions that also find themselves in these northern climates. Sally is a musher.
A BRIEF HISTORY Mushing — defined as a form of sport or transportation where dogs are the source of power, and in most cases, involve pulling a sled or cart on snow — dates back to at least 2000 BC. Exact area of origination is a topic of debate, but it’s without a doubt that many American Indian cultures used dogs to power their supply loads. The sport of mushing is practiced worldwide, but it is primarily concentrated in North America and parts of Northern Europe & the Alps. While training typically begins in late summer/early fall, sled dog races take place during the winter months in cold and snowy conditions, and vary in length from short to medium to long distance. Most notably held is the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race — a long distance race held annually in Alaska in early March. During the race, contestants can expect, and will experience, white-out conditions, gale force winds and subzero temperatures during their journey. That doesn’t scare mushers away, as more than 50 teams participate annually.
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MU SHING IN NEW ENGLAND In the northern regions of New England, snowmobiles are commonplace — in fact some feel it’s odd if you don’t own one. But, long before the invention of these forms of transportation, there were teams of sled dogs. However, tracing New England’s history of dog sled racing brings us to Nome, Alaska in 1925 where the Great Race of Mercy was held. The 1925 race, or ‘serum run’, was an effort to transport diphtheria serum to the residents of Nome, Alaska, where an imminent outbreak of the fatal disease was about to take place. 20 mushers and about 150 sled dogs set out on the mission to deliver the medicine. They succeeded, and changed the history of Nome by their accomplishments. One of those mushers was Leonhard Seppala, the final team to arrive in Nome and deliver the serum. Despite all the teams that made it to Nome, Seppala and his team are considered to be the true heroes of the run, having covered the longest and most treacherous leg of the trek. Post Nome, Seppala and his team traveled across the US for team tours. By 1926 they had made it to New Hampshire. Once here, the musher and his team of Siberian huskies ran a number of local races — consistently drawing large crowds — and easily defeating the local Chinook dogs. Seppala eventually sold the majority of his dogs to a kennel in Poland Spring, ME, and it is said that the majority of the huskies found in the US are descendants of one of these dogs. Prior to Seppala’s visit, the New England Sled Dog Club was organized (in 1924), and a handful more followed in the coming years as the sport was embraced with greater reverence and excitement in the region. Today, there are hundreds of mushers in the region — both recreational mushers and seasoned racing teams.
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H O W S ALLY GOT HER START It happened by chance. A flier in a coffee shop about guided sled dog tours caught her eye. And the rest seems to have all fallen into place. Sally began her sled dog racing career in 2007 when she took a job as a guide for that same tour company. After years of immersing herself in the job and learning all that she could, Sally felt she was ready to build her own kennel and her own team — she acquired her first four dogs in 2011. Six years later, Sally has a full team of 16 dogs. After spending the morning with Sally, what seemed to be the most interesting fact was that her childhood was spent without dogs. There were cats, and a slew of other animals, but dogs weren’t present. Watching Sally on this morning, interacting with each dog, you would think that she has been a friend of canines all her life. Each dog is cared for and looked after with incredible attention and affection. Sally has gotten to know each dog’s individual personality traits – the characteristics that make them unique and stand out from the pack. Her dogs are shy and outgoing. They are exuberant and relaxed. They are lead dogs, veterans and rookies. Individually, they are unique and stand out on their own. But together they make a unified pack. Together they are an incredible force, with one goal in mind.
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SH A DY PINES SLED DOG TEAM Shady Pines is a mid-distance team located in Shelburne, New Hampshire at the base of the Mahoosuc Mountains. They are considered small in comparison to other racing teams with a roster of 16 dogs. The team is made up of 6 lead dogs; Bayley, Hyside, Wembley, Ellie, Ia and House. These dogs set the pace and make the trail-running decisions that help guide the rest of the team. The remaining dogs, both rookies and vets, act as the team’s engine. They are the power and driving force behind Sally and her sled. Together, the team runs roughly 2,000 miles annually. When we arrived at the trailhead the morning of our shoot with Sally, we were immediately greeted by Hyside; a tail-wagging, genuinely happy-to-meet-us greeting. As each dog was pulled out of the box attached to the bed of Sally’s truck, they greeted us with barks, sniffs and morning kisses. We observed and photographed Sally as she went about her routine setting up for the day’s run; readying the sled and loading up the gear, putting booties and harnesses on each of the dogs, and lastly, leading them to the gang line. Once they were on the line, their inherent instincts kicked in. An excitement tore through the pack as they howled and jumped with enthusiasm. The team was alive knowing they were about to race.
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F INDING HOMES BEYOND THE TRAILS Dogs can’t stay on the trail forever. As racing takes a toll on their bodies, dogs are eventually retired from the team. Despite this, finding happy homes and maintaining meaningful living situations for all her dogs once they are done racing is an integral part of Shady Pines. Their commitment to these dogs is unwavering. All Shady Pines dogs are placed into new homes at no fee, and Sally even offers lifetime dog-sitting for all dogs placed. Creating and providing a supportive environment throughout these dogs’ lives is of utmost importance to Sally. Sally Manikian is an example of a one-of-a-kind New Englander who helps paint a unique portrait of the region. Her story is one of history and centuries-old traditions. Her passion for her sport is inspiring. Sally holds an incredible adoration for her team of dogs, and also for the New England landscape. She wakes at uncommon hours and finds herself subject to some of the region’s harshest weather conditions. And yet, she persists. She has found a deep connection to the animals that she relies on, and also to the remote wilderness that provides her company.
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To learn more about Sally and the Shady Pines Sled Dog Team, or to sponsor a dog or the team, visit www.shadypinessleddogs.com
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Winter Wanderings Words
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Photos by Ashley Herrin
“BUT WHILE T HE EARTH H AS SLU MBE RE D, AL L TH E AI R HAS BEEN ALIVE WITH FE ATH E RY FL AKE S DE SCE N DI N G, AS IF SOME NOR TH E RN CE RE S RE IG NE D, SH OW E RI NG HER SILVERY GR AI N OV E R AL L TH E FI E L D S.” - HEN RY DAVID T HOR EAU
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We awaken to a still winter morning. A fresh carpet of snow arrived with the winds from the northeast as inches of perfectly crafted flakes dust the Vermont landscape. In a matter of hours, the once gray and muted green hills and farmlands are transformed into a winter wonderland. A simple stroke of the paintbrush dipped in a crisp white and the land has been transformed. In the morning, we shed our down blankets that wrapped us in the evening’s slumber. We pull the blinds and draw the shades. A light so bright spills into the windows, reflecting off of nature’s new coat. It’s no hidden truth that winter keeps people inside waiting for the season to break; hunkered down by roaring fires, fresh pots of soup and the warmth of the indoors. But on this morning, the newly painted landscape called to us for further exploration. We dressed in our layers, pulled on our boots and mittens and headed into the sanctuary of the winter scene.
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We headed out with no destination in mind, only wanting to explore the region and see it in this winter light. We aimlessly roamed and wandered on foot and by car. We travelled along winding roads void of other cars and people. We stretched our legs along trails surrounded by pines draped with fresh snow. Outside, the world seemed silent, as if no one was there to enjoy it but us. With the exception of the snow crunching below foot and the occasional twig cracking or dropping under the weight of the new snowfall, we were the only noisemakers in this Vermont wilderness. It is important to remember that Winter, just like the seasons that come before it, is fleeting. The subzero temperatures that often grip the region are only a brief moment in the annual life cycle of New England. Knowing that the beauty in this new snowfall would disappear just as quickly as the leaves in autumn do, we felt obligated to embrace that beautiful morning.
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T H E R E I S A S L U M B E R I N G S U B T E R R A N E A N F I R E I N N AT U R E W H I C H N E V E R G O E S O U T, A N D W H I C H N O C O L D C A N C H I L L . I T F I N A L LY M E LT S T H E G R E AT S N OW, A N D I N JA N UA RY O R J U LY I S O N LY B U R I E D U N D E R A T H I C K E R O R T H I N N E R C OV E R I N G . I N T H E C O L D E S T DAY I T F LOW S S O M E W H E R E , A N D T H E S N OW M E LT S A R O U N D E V E RY T R E E . - Hen r y D av id T h o reau
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EXPLORE
PLUM ISLAND WINTER Words
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Photos by Michelle Martin
One of the best things about winter in New England is getting to visit places that are normally overrun with people in the summertime. In the summer, hordes of people flock to the coast to spend the day at the ocean. Tiny coastal towns become vibrant and full of vacationers. In the winter, however, these towns and beaches become quiet, people retreating to the mountains to enjoy the winter weather. The first snowstorm of the season hit in early January. It was a Saturday and it snowed all day long. We did the typical snow day activities of making a pot of soup, cozying up with blankets and watching movies for a good portion of the day. The following day we woke eagerly, layered up and ventured north to Plum Island.
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Plum Island is off the northeast coast of Massachusetts. It’s 11 miles long and full of wildlife, trails, and miles of seashore. We frequent the island during the unbearably hot days of summer, fleeing the city to stake out a small plot of sand to sunbathe on for the afternoon. As beautiful as Plum Island is in the summer, it’s even more beautiful covered in snow. We arrived in the early afternoon and knew we only had a couple of hours until the sun set. The parking lots that are normally overflowing had barely any cars in them. We braved the 20 degree temperatures to roam the island on foot, taking the frozen scenery in and enjoying the solitude. The landscape was iced over, looking almost extraterrestrial, but the sun shone bright and the clear, blue sky reflected over the fresh blankets of snow. As we trailed around the island we eventually ended up at the ocean. The wind whipped but the familiar lulling, rhythmic churn of the ocean was still present. We stayed a while, enjoying the view as the sun dipped below the horizon until we could no longer feel our fingers. Then we retreated to the car to warm up at the local pub with a beer next to the fire.
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ADVENTURE GUIDE
HUT-TO-HUT Words
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Photos by Jess Beer
A GETAWAY T O MAI NE H U TS AND TR AI L S, A NON-PR OFIT H I KI NG & SKI I N G ORG AN I Z ATI ON.
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It’s a quarter after three in the after-
country skis. Most New Englanders take
noon and the hut is alive and anxious
the winter season as a time for renewal,
with anticipation as guests slowly
a chance to recharge and recoup after a
begin to trickle in by groups of twos
short and demanding summer, but not
and threes behind us. The rich smell of
this crowd. The folks here have taken
freshly brewed Carrabassett coffee per-
full advantage of Maine Huts and Trails
meates the air around you, as the subtle
opportunity to chose your own adven-
sounds of kitchen pans and utensils
ture, as dozens of cross country skis
being tossed about pull your attention
and even a fat bike or two can be seen
inward. The kitchen is like a hive, hut
gently wedged between snow banks
crew members are buzzing from counter
outside of the main entrance. This “hut”
to counter, between stovetop and sink;
is not your run of the mill backwoods
dinner prep is in full swing. Potatoes
lean to, but an intricately crafted eco-
are tossed about as they are sliced
lodge nestled between the evergreens.
and seasoned for roasting, and the savory smell of chicken in the oven has
Maine Huts and Trails is a non-profit
you salivating like one of pavlov’s dogs.
organization whose focus is to preserve
To your left, the beer and wine list
and conserve the land of western Maine
eagerly reminds you of just how thirsty
through their back country hut to hut
you are after a long but rewarding day
trail system. Modeled after the European
of cross country skiing.
backcountry lodging system, these huts offer guests the ability to enjoy a day’s
As we were assured prior to arrival, the
worth of outdoor play and conclude
hut is warm and welcoming, a sudden
it with a warm meal and comfortable
change from the frigid winter air we just
place to sleep.
bravely traversed through on our cross
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The original idea behind the huts was created by Larry Warren, a western Mainer and Carrabassett Valley native, whose passion not only lies in varying forms of outdoor recreation but high class eco-tourism. His carefully designed huts are known for being “off the grid” and “self sustaining” through the use of solar energy, wood burning and various composting systems. Larry has kept true to his goal of supporting the local economy by sourcing produce and material for the sustainability and construction of each hut from within 50 miles of each location; a task that has been taken very seriously since day one. You can even take an “energy tour” after dinner when you stay over night, where the hut staff will thoroughly go through the hut with you explaining each system, the way in which they are run, and what their purpose is within the everyday functionality of the hut. We started our adventure at the Airport trail head, located in Carrabassett Valley along route 27 north. The drive through this area of western Maine was scenic and enchanting, like a scene from a wintery children’s book come to life before our very eyes. Our vehicle wound for miles along the Carrabassett river and through rolling mountainsides, thick with snow from this past week’s early morning snowfall. Views of Mount Abraham can be seen to your left as you pass through the small town of Kingfield, home base of the Maine Huts and Trails office, just south of Carrabassett Valley. Grand views of the Bigelow Mountain Range can be seen along your dashboard as you head further north, dipping between valley ranges and coasting around swift s-curves.
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Upon arriving to the Airport trail head, we were greeted with clear views of the distant Bigelow Preserve, West and Avery peak to the right, the Horns and Cranberry to the left. A large kiosk holds a large blown up map of the trail system, portable tri-fold trail maps, and a welcome sign pointing us in the right direction to the Maine Huts ski trail. We chose Poplar Stream Falls hut as our location for this adventure, a 3.3 mile ski from the airport trailhead. With fresh snow all around us, we were eager to hit the groomed trails. Groomers work day and night preparing these trails for the day’s guests, tracking over 80 miles of corridor for outdoor winter enthusiasts to enjoy. This is a hard and demanding task, and we appreciate their hard work and dedication with each kick of our ski boot. Maine Huts and Trails has become known as one of this region’s top cross country ski destinations. With over 80 miles of groomed corridor for cross country skiing, winter fat biking, snowshoeing and hiking. As you follow the Maine Huts trail between the huts, you will have opportunities to break off of the main trail and take small scenic side trails, primarily accessible to snowshoers and hikers in the winter. These quick alternate routes often offer you the opportunity of viewing natural landmarks like waterfalls, vast shorelines of Flagstaff Lake and sometimes even views of Sugarloaf ski mountain along the horizon line. The ski between the airport and hut was smooth and rolling, offing us opportunities to climb small and gradual hills to then confidently coast down smooth turns. We stopped along the way to enjoy some homemade granola that we packed as a trail snack from home, and to scope out our location within the trail map. Careful consideration has been placed within the tri-fold maps, as we are easily able to follow our course, as well as stay on track with the help of diamond shaped blue trail blazes along the way.
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The last and final climb before the hut left us feeling jittery with excitement, as we were almost to our destination and only a few short moments from a warm fire and hot cup of coffee. The journey had taken us no more than a couple hours based on our skiing ability, including a few stops along the way. The ski in is easily obtainable by any skier, leaving you feeling conquered and fatigued with satisfaction. Warm smiles welcomed us upon arrival, as we filled out or registration form and were pointed in the direction of our room. The hut staff was eager to fill us in on the systems around the hut and even reminded us to please keep our electronics tucked away, to ensure that we could take full advantage of the “off the grid� lifestyle and momentarily disconnect ourselves from the outside world. We were asked to stay mindful of energy use within the hut and to remember to turn off any lights that we may use throughout the course of our stay, as well as refrain from overusing water during our showers. After our day of skiing, a warm shower was exactly what we were looking for, and were thankful to have the opportunity to warm up and get cozy in our loungewear. the CABIN F EVER ISSU E | 49
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As a party of two, we were allotted the option of booking a private room, offering us with separate sleeping quarters from the rest of the night’s guests. Depending on how many guests there are each night, parties might be combined within large bunk quarters, posing a similarity to the european style hut to hut lodging experience. The bunk rooms themselves are quiet, comfortable and most importantly, heated! Our packing list for this trip remained fairly small and simple; clothes to ski in, clothes to lounge and sleep in, warm weather gear like hats and scarfs, a sleeping bag and bathroom essentials. Traveling light was easy, thanks to the generous hospitality of the huts for supplying us with sleeping quarters, a comfortable bed and pillow, as well as multiple home cooked meals. For those guests who may need to travel with more gear than ourselves, there is the additional option to have your bags shuttled from hut to hut. Dinner was served promptly at six, and we were wowed with a large spread of savory fare. The hut staff worked throughout the day to prepare us with homemade bread, seasoned chicken, roasted vegetables and flavor packed potato wedges. We enjoyed dinner with a cold beer and a glass of wine, while fully embracing the family style set up. We sat among two other families, encouraging us to mingle with our new found friends. Stories were shared of our days adventures, time spent within the other three huts, and we were even presented with a dinner speech. As dinner concluded and dessert was presented, the hut staff thanked us again for joining them that evening, and introduced themselves one by one. We were informed that there would be an “energy tour� that evening, which we were excited
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for, and that breakfast would be served at 7:30 am followed by a lunch buffet style spread. We were encouraged to create our own lunch sandwiches from the salads in which they prepared for us, including snacks like apples, oranges, granola bars and chips. These bagged lunches offered us the opportunity to hit the trail sooner, and enjoy the most out of our afternoon that following day. Their speech also touched upon their mission and core values as a non profit organization, including their dedication to minimizing their environmental impact through eco-systems, empowering the local community by sourcing locally, and providing us with a world class experience through hospitality and outdoor recreation opportunities. They explained to us how the huts were formed, how the idea originated, and how the structures came to be. Our trip has been not only rewarding and memorable, but also educational in more ways than anyone could imagine. From the afternoon’s ski adventure up to the hut, to the family style shared meal, there wasn’t a moment where there wasn’t something to experience or something to learn. When you stay at the huts, you are not only educating yourself about sustainable lifestyles and alternative ways of living, but helping to spread an environmental movement. Maine Huts and Trails is truly doing something incredible here, and by staying within one of their lodges and experiencing what they have to offer, you are helping to contribute to their mission. There is so much to learn about the world around you, and submersing yourself within the backcountry of western Maine is only the tip of it.
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Backwoods Granola Recipe & Photos by Jess Beer
When it comes to on the go snackage, homemade granola is hands down one of my favorite treats. Working a pretty physically demanding job means that having a constant supply of snacks on hand throughout the day is a must for me, as I am always in need of a quick pickup snack that is easy to bag up and take on the go. Small in size, this granola packs a punch in flavor. Crispy in texture, sweet with maple syrup and notes of cinnamon, this recipe was designed to be both incredibly satisfying, and easy to make. Whether made the night before, or with only an hour to spare before hitting the trail, this is sure to be a palate pleaser.
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INDULGE
BACKWOODS GRANOLA I N G R ED I EN T S :
3 tsp. Madagascar Vanilla Extract
¾ cup Shaved Coconut 4 ½ tbs. Brown Sugar
2 tsp. Cinnamon Powder
3 tsp. Chia Seeds
8 tbs. Pure Maple Syrup
2
4
½ tbs. Organic Coconut Oil, Melted
½ cup Shaved Almonds ½ cup Pumpkin Seeds 2 tbs. Ground Flax Seeds
½ - 3 Cups of Rolled Oats ¾ cup diced Apricots ¾ cup dried Cranberries ¾ cup Dark Chocolate Chips
METHOD: Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Line a large cookie sheet with tinfoil, shiny side up, and set aside. Start by mixing melted coconut oil with maple syrup, vanilla, cinnamon, and brown sugar in a large bowl. Stir until well combined. Next add oats, stirring well to be sure that a thick covering of your wet mixture is applied. Next add in your seeds, shaved coconut and almonds, followed by dried fruit. Continue stirring until all of the ingredients are well combined. Withhold your chocolate chips in a cool dry place. Evenly coat the tinfoil lined cookie sheet with your granola mixture, and place in the oven for 15-20 minutes. After about 15 or so minutes, stir and toss your granola, to ensure that nothing is sticking to the bottom of your foiled pan and return your granola back to the oven for another 12-15 minutes. If you are looking for a slightly more chewy and soft granola, reduce your time by intervals of 5 minutes until the acquired texture is achieved. Remember that granola will be semi soft until fully cooled. Allow your granola to cool for at least 30 minutes before mixing in your dark chocolate chips. You can divvy up your granola between snack bags, or containers to then be stored for at least a week. I will often store mine in the fridge, to elongate its shelf life. Enjoy!
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ADVENTURE GUIDE
Mt. Chase Lodge Words by Shannon Brown Illustrations by Ashley Herrin
It’s far. There’s no way around that. Unless you’re one of the lucky few living in Maine’s north country where the Appalachian trail begins and the new National Monument was recently created, chances are good that a road trip will be part of your experience at Shin Pond. You’ll drive down roads that appear forgotten, through towns that seem to be nothing but a cluster of houses and through gusts of wind pushing snow across your path. Once you get there, the adventure will really begin. At Mount Chase Lodge, you’ll be greeted by Mike and Lindsay, a young couple who just took over for Lindsay’s parents, who ran the family business for 40 years. They’ll make you feel welcome and encourage you to quickly get comfortable.
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Before I arrived, Mike and Lindsay suggested bringing snowshoes, since the lake, which can be seen glistening through the picture window in the lodge’s sun room, would likely not be in prime ice skating condition. I borrowed snowshoes and hit the trails after breakfast the first morning. Walking to the trails initially felt like walking in giant clown shoes, but I got more comfortable as I went along. And like a creature not designed for land, the snowshoes made more sense once I brought them into their natural environment — the two feet of snow that had recently blanketed Shin Pond. By having the snowshoes, I was able to enter into a true winter wonderland and access trails flanked by pine trees with snow-bowed branches and giant fallen birch trees.
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Watching the snow fall gently around us was a beautiful reminder of just how deep into the woods I had traveled and how lucky I was to experience nature undisturbed. The snowshoe trails at Mount Chase Lodge let visitors experience winter’s splendor without ever having to worry about getting too cold — the lodge, with its massive fire-lit hearth and tea and hot cocoa at the ready, is always just a few steps away. I couldn’t get enough of the sun shining on the snow, the quiet hush of winter and the thrill of being active in an environment that normally forces me into hibernation mode. I ended up snowshoeing several times that weekend.
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When I arrived back at the lodge, Mike had his special homemade “everything bread” waiting for us with fresh butter. It tasted like getting a treat from a fancy European ski chalet, but enhanced with the comforting flavors of an everything bagel. After the snowshoeing, it was my favorite part of the weekend. As I packed my bags on the last day and headed back out on the road, I was already missing Shin Pond with its field of undisturbed snow and cozy cabins. It had been a long journey to get there, but the destination was one I’ll never forget.
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EXPLORE
WINTER’S PACE Words
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Photos by Stephanie Krist
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I grew up in a small New Hampshire town where we were no strangers to the questionable season called winter. Cold, windy & snowy? It was never my favorite combination and the best reason to stay cozy inside. Making friendship bracelets while I watched my favorite movie was my perfect idea of a snow day, but it was inevitable that my mom would eventually kick my sister and I out of the house to go play in the back yard. Getting all my snow gear on was such a process (as dramatized by my sassy little self) and I really hated feeling like a marshmallow, but still my mother insisted we needed to “go get some fresh air” and shooed us off into the cold abyss. Now that I’ve been a real, less-dramatic adult for a fair number of years, I get why Mom did that. I’ve grown to love the fresh winter air, especially when I can go on a quick run in the middle of a stuffy work day, or when I convince my husband that a chilly weekend hike is the perfect way to explore a little more of our area. Choosing to spend time outside in the winter re-energizes me and, honestly, makes me feel like a true New Englander. And thankfully I’ve perfected my combination of winter gear for every occasion and don’t feel like a marshmallow every time I venture outside. Last year I joined a local running group west of Boston that is comprised of several hundred seriously dedicated runners who run in all combinations of fickle New England weather. Overcast and 20 degrees? Let’s do it. Windy and in the single digits? Already out the door. The day after a big snowstorm? Obviously! That is actually my favorite time to run - the morning after a good, but not too intense, snowstorm. The bright, fresh covering of snow makes for a really peaceful run. Of course, the non-runners, the cozy-seekers, and, let’s say, the normal population of the world might call it crazy or hardcore. But if you ask me and my runner friends, yes we might still call it crazy, but we’ll also tell you that it keeps us energized, happy and motivated, in a season when sometimes it’s really hard to be all those things.
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Running takes physical strength, but it
it’s pretty easy to coordinate schedules
also has a lot to do with mindset. “If you
and go on a run together. In our Face-
say you can, you can.” My mom told me
book group, people are more than happy
this all the time, and I didn’t completely
to share their favorite new trail discov-
understand why until well into my
eries or upcoming race information.
20s. Now it’s a little mantra I repeat to
It’s their great photos of their adven-
myself a lot, for many different reasons,
turous running routes or informative
but mostly when it comes to running.
updates about the weather conditions that
You CAN run in bad weather. Nothing
encourage me to get outside, too. And
is stopping you. Yes, running outside in
then I do it, and then I remember all the
the winter months can be brutal, but if
reasons I love it. And then life is a little
you dress in the right layers and gear,
better.
and give yourself a really great pep talk before you head out the door, it’s inevi-
I met up with a handful of these run-
table that you will do it and it will be an
ning friends over the last month to
interesting, if not fun, experience.
take pictures of them in their elements, flaunting their “no matter the weather”
But then there are the hard days, when
attitudes. They each took me to their
personal pep talks have no affect on you.
favorite area trail and I had a great time
Running buddies were made for those
making these running portraits of them
days. Running in the tough weather is
all. After the photo shoots, I asked each
a lot more enjoyable when you have a
runner two questions: 1) Why do you
friend or two to go with. The people in
love being outside? And 2) What moti-
my local running group have been such
vates you to run even when the weather
a motivation to me in the last year or
isn’t great? I wanted to share their
so. There have been days when it seems
answers here with you, in hopes that
like there’s no way I will get out of the
it might motivate you to explore the
house for a run, but since most of us live
wintery corners of New England’s great
in the same area of Metro West Boston,
outdoors.
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“New England weather in the winter season is actually great for me. As a runner, my body overheats when the temperatures are in the 70’s or above, so running in the cooler temperatures helps, especially when I want to push myself hard. Having running goals (in my case, a marathon training schedule) is very motivating for me to get outside despite the weather. Getting outside in even the worst conditions gives me a deep satisfaction along the lines of, “I kicked the weather’s butt today!” Because I’m running 5-6 days a week, I feel well acclimated to the conditions and therefore they don’t really bother me in my daily life as much. Taking advantage of the cold, instead of hiding from it, helps those cold months go by really fast!” - COLIN S.
“It’s always been important to me to spend time outside. There is just something really simple and organic about the outdoors that I love. When I’m running outside, I feel like the miles go by faster, even in a storm and snow. I feel like my senses are heightened and I’m able to concentrate on just putting one foot in front of the other. All the daily clutter and surrounding issues are out of my thoughts for those sweet miles.” - SOPHANNY M.
“Why do I run outside even in the crazy NE weather? Well, I love the outdoors and I love nature. I can’t survive staying inside all the time! Getting fresh air clears my head. I also love adventures, like exploring new hiking trails and running routes. I can’t stop all of my favorite activities just because there is a little snow on the ground!” - RICKI B.
“Spending time outside, especially at this time of year when it’s cold and dark, helps me maintain my sanity! I feel inspired and energized when I realize that I’ve dared to go out in it rather than huddling inside! I notice that I view “cold” differently than I used to. It isn’t something to hide away from anymore. Instead, I measure how cold it is and lean into it with the necessary layers. It has created a different perspective on this season I used to dread so much.” - SUZAN C.
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METRO-WEST’S WINTER-FRIENDLY RUNNING ROUTES OU T S IDE OF B O S TON, ON E CAN FIN D MAN Y RUN N IN G R OUTES AC C ES SI BL E Y E AR-R OU N D. TH ESE SP OTS R AN GE FR OM WIDE, W ELL- G R O OM E D WAL K I N G PATHS TO N AR R OW, HIL LY TR AIL S. A L L A R E G R E AT LO CATI ON S FOR VAR IED T YPES OF RUN N IN G & GENE R AL OU T D O OR E XPLOR ATION. H ER E AR E J UST A FEW...
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Rocky Narrows Sherborne, MA
4
Coolidge Hill Trail System Natick, MA
Rocky Narrows in Sherborn, MA is a hilly
The Coolidge Hill trail system in Natick,
wooded area with many trail options cov-
MA is made up of a large quantity of tiny
ering about 7 miles of total terrain. Try the
loops that connect to many other longer
steep blue trail that leads up to a lookout
trails in the area. Never been before? Go
with views of the Charles River.
with a buddy on your first visit as the trail system might get confusing.
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3
Wellesley Aqueduct Trail Wellesley, MA
5
Noanet Woodlands Dover, MA
The Aqueduct trail in Wellesley, MA offers
Noanet Woodlands in Dover, MA is a
a variety of scenic options. You can either
popular hiking, walking and running spot.
take the route that winds down along the
One of the main trails leads up to a great
Charles River, or run over the aqueduct to
view of Boston’s skyline. The trails are
another set of woodsy trails.
well-marked and kept.
Waban Pond Wellesley, MA
Waban Pond is located on the Wellesley College campus in Wellesley, MA. The pond trail itself is a short 2-mile loop that’s well groomed and beautiful year-round. It’s also very dog friendly! the CABIN F EVER ISSU E | 73
ADVENTURE GUIDE
Winter Paddle Words by Tina Picz-Devoe Photos by Tina & Jon Devoe
In the early morning winter darkness he awakes at 5 AM on a Sunday. I hear these antique, wooden floors creak as my husband quietly tiptoes through the house attempting not to wake us as he prepares for his solo journey. He dresses in layers; wool socks, wool vest, flannel shirt, long-johns under jeans, heats the water for his thermos of tea, grabs his paddles and loads the canoe onto the wagon. He heads out to the destination which he has chosen for this particular weekend voyage. Upon arrival, he steps out to smell the frigid air with a faint scent of wet soil and pine, breath creating condensation, seen as a mist before him. He watches a low, dense fog dangling over this body of water as he portages the canoe on his shoulders and onto an icy river bank. The canoe breaks through a thin top layer of ice as it pushes along into more open water. The ice creates a loud, crackling echo across the expanse. As he paddles this New England river, he is one with his Native American ancestors of the Nipmuc Tribe of Central Massachusetts who have paddled here in centuries past.
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He is reminded of how they may have felt as they plied these waters, watching geese and blue heron, hearing the loon call out to its mate and often encountering many muskrats and beavers who slap their tales loudly in opposition to man passing through their territory. This is part of the reason he does this year round- to connect with nature and his ancestors throughout all four seasons. To feel each season in its’ fullness- the elements on skin, air in lungs, uniquely different with the changing months in varied smells and temperatures, and seeing the greenery change along the riverside. To dwell in the animal realm with no man-made distractions or noise, instead only the sound of nature, undisturbed, in a way, being transported back in time. This is his form of time travel. Each stroke of the wooden paddle is a timeless homage to his bloodline, to a people who hand-carved each canoe from the mighty trees felled with tools made by their strong, weathered hands from the materials given by the pliable earth that they slept upon each night inside of their long-houses. When he steps out of the canoe into uncharted territory to take a hike, in his mind he travels back to a time before concrete hardened the ground; when yielding soil was padded by layers of fallen leaves and pine needles and every pebble could be felt beneath the soles of feet. He finds solace in the quietness away from all humans, in the raw beauty of watching the golden sun rise above the tree line, finding its reflection on the glistening river as it ascends. He finds a deep stillness within as he canoes and walks alone on this, his native homeland.
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Nipmuc (Nipamaug) means “People of The Fresh Water Fishing Place” and The Hassanamisco Nipmuc Nation of Native Americans was once anywhere from 10,000-15,000 strong at the time when Pilgrims arrived here from England in the 1620s-30s. They spoke the Algonquian language and created dug-out canoes called “mishoons” from chestnut wood by burning part of the trees to aid in hollowing them out. Recently, an incredible discovery was made in Shrewsbury, Massachusetts when a group of 3 of these canoes were found beneath Lake Quinsigemond, perfectly preserved for 400 years, weighed down by large stones, which was how they were kept intact under ice through the winter months. This indigenous group underwent great trials at the hands of European settlers when left to die in Deer Island internment camps of Boston Harbor Islands National Park. Today they have a small population of about 1,400 which is not federally recognized, although the Commonwealth of Massachusetts does recognize them. There now remains a four and a half acre reservation in Worcester County (Grafton, MA) which is where the original Hassanamesit Plantation existed, as well as 10 acres in Connecticut- a state that does not recognize them. There will soon be a Native American Memorial on Deer Island and the Nipmuc people continue to host powwows regularly, passing on their history and culture to our generation.
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H O W-TO: BEAT CABIN FEVER
NEW ENGLAND BRACER Words
&
Photos by Tricia Cronin
Winslow Homer survived harsh Maine winters by concocting a daily alcoholic beverage he called a New England Bracer. My non-alcoholic version is a mixture of mindset, activities, and community. Sometimes our picturesque New England towns are difficult to enjoy through the dull gray filter of January, February, and March. This is especially true during warmer winters when we don’t have exciting storm clouds and sunlight bouncing off snow. To counteract those lustreless days I have trained myself to appreciate sunlight when we do have it. A winter sunrise can be pink and clear and I absorb that light and appreciate it. For years I’ve trained myself to notice the winter light because it is both beautiful and finite. Cultivating and practicing this mindset of enjoying winter light has carried me through some very unpleasant winter moments. One morning I awoke to dripping in my bedroom and knew an ice dam needed to be cleared. I waited until dawn to go outside and climb the ladder and, much to my surprise, I was smiling. I was on the top rung of a ladder in single degree weather, physically and mentally exhausted from the second blizzard and all its problems, and yet I was happy. I was experiencing great joy from the colors in the sky and the silence in the neighborhood — this was an exquisite sunrise and I was grateful to experience it from a rooftop!
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I have found that the key to surviving winters in New England is simple: get outside. I first learned how to manage winter when I was in high school and my older brothers, restless from a long college break, would often insist I join them on their hikes. We left our parents’ driveway and headed up the road. About a half-mile away, we passed a farm with a three-legged dog and a horse with one eye. This is where we entered the trail to what we thought of as our own version of Walden Pond. We journeyed through a beautiful stand of old pine trees and walked another mile or so down to our favorite rock. Our conversations always intensified the further we hiked — moving from mundane problems to more overarching life questions as we journeyed deeper into the woods. When we arrived at our rock overlooking the frozen pond we would become silent. We’d reach into our pockets and remove our simple picnic of two clementines and Hershey’s Kisses. We’d talk a bit more, toss a stone across the ice and listen until we grew too chilly from sitting on the cold rock. These walks, once something my brothers pressured me to do, transformed my winter days and became a ritual that I continue to practice today. Now, my husband and I often take our two kids on hikes in the woods. In the snow we have great fun identifying animal tracks — one time we saw a hibernating frog in a frozen puddle — and we always take it slow and notice how the sunlight and clouds look so different in the forest. We get out of the house and walk regardless of the temperature, rain or snow. But it’s been a process. On more than one occasion when our daughter was younger she would insist on wearing fancy party shoes when setting out for a hike. We would leave the house anyway, only to turn around a quarter of the way into the walk because, not surprisingly, she was too cold to continue. Our son too sometimes slows us down extensively as he must investigate every stick in the entire forest. They have become better hikers with age and we’ve made it deeper into the conservation land near our house. During winter break this year we enjoyed several walks. One day when we arrived at a pond our daughter
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asked if we could sit down on a rock for a picnic. I responded that it was a great idea but I hadn’t brought any food and she smirked then put her hands in her pockets and pulled out clementines and Hershey’s Kisses. She’s on her way to flourishing in New England winters! Learning a new winter sport, or revisiting a childhood favorite, might just transform your winter so much that you dread the arrival of spring! Two years ago I learned to cross country ski and it changed my daily relationship with snow. Ski trips sustained me through my twenties and thirties but family life took over and suddenly a long car ride to an expensive mountain became significantly less desirable. As a result, my relationship to snow became all work and no play. The winter I tried cross country skiing I found renewed joy in snow! After I dropped my son off at preschool I would head out to some nearby conservation land and ski, following other people’s tracks. Being outside in adulthood winters usually means shoveling or deicing and now I was actually enjoying the snow and getting a workout! Instead of deciding if I should shovel or roof rake I got to ask myself: should I follow the cow path or the one of the other trails. Cross country skiing is interesting in that each time I do it, even on the same trails, it feels like a new experience because of the different conditions. Sports like cross country skiing and ice skating are great to try as they have a low commitment level. You can pick up equipment at a used sports store, both sports have lots of public access points and neither require expensive lessons or specific athletic prowess. I’m often awed by the number of senior citizens I see on the trails, grinning broadly, as they head straight into winter winds. I’m even sometimes frustrated when I can’t keep up with skiers who are in their seventies or eighties! This winter I picked up some used skis for my kids and we’ve been enjoying games of cross country ski tag in the yard. Even when we don’t have much snow we can ski in the yard on just a few inches. We’re able to pop on the skis and enjoy the best before and after school activity in our own yard!
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Meeting up with people is a key component to the New England Bracer. But for many of us it’s also the most difficult thing to do. After all, there are so many reasons to just stay at home. Not wanting to go out when it’s cold and slippery is very logical. Also, so many of us, despite our best efforts, succumb to the winter blues. The true hero of New England winters is the social planner. If you’re very lucky you’ve got one in your group of friends. For years, a college friend planned an annual ski trip for the first weekend in March. March is for me the hardest of all winter months, when snow sports are less likely, and your life experience in New England reminds you to NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT spring yet. That annual trip got us all together and refreshed our spirits so we could make it through until spring actually arrived! I’ve also been fortunate to have a dear friend who, when she first moved to Massachusetts, suffered through a long snowy winter in which she declared, “No one seems to get out of the house here in winter!” Each winter thereafter she made it a mission to call us persistently until we’d agree to leave our houses and meet for coffee. We’d gather in her kitchen and jockey for space around her warm Aga stove while making each other laugh-cry with our stories. I am grateful for these social planners who force me to socialize in winter! I’ve even started to adopt their strategies and I’m constantly inviting friends and acquaintances to join me for winter hikes or cross country skiing. Winslow Homer was prepared for the elements and his New England Bracer carried him through many long Maine winters. I’m so fortunate to have concocted my own version so that I am able not only to survive winters but to actually enjoy them!
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ROOT VEGETABLE SOUP with chickpeas and farro Recipe by Amanda Barker Photos by Jenn Bakos
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A nourishing, steaming hot bowl of soup is the perfect accompaniment — or antidote — to a cold winter’s day in New England. This particular soup is brimming with winter root vegetables, tender chickpeas, and toothsome farro; it is winter comfort food that will warm you from the inside out, an ideal meal when you need to thaw out after a chilly outdoor adventure. Cook up a big pot of this soup the day before you head out to the mountains for a day of skiing or sledding, then when you return home and are in desperate need of warmth and nourishment, simply reheat it on the stove. Or pack the hot soup into a thermos and bring it along with you on a hike through the snowy woods. When you start to get cold and hungry halfway through your hike, you’ll be glad you thought ahead. This soup might just become your winter mealtime hero.
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INDULGE
ROOT VEGETABLE SOUP I N G R ED I EN T S : 2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, undrained
1 medium shallot, finely diced
8 cups (64 ounces) vegetable or chicken stock/broth
2 stalks celery, diced
(homemade or store-bought), plus more if needed to
3 medium carrots, peeled and diced
thin the soup (especially if reheating the next day)
3 medium parsnips, peeled and diced
2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1
½ tablespoons dried Italian seasoning
3 cups cooked farro
3 cups peeled and diced sweet potato
(cooked according to package directions)*
(about 2 medium sweet potatoes)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
METHOD: In a large soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, shallot, celery, carrots, parsnips, Italian seasoning, and a generous pinch of salt and pepper; sauté, stirring frequently, until the onion and shallot are translucent and just starting to become golden, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the sweet potato, garlic, and another pinch of salt and pepper; sauté, stirring continuously, for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the canned tomatoes with their juices and the broth or stock. Turn up the heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender (but not mushy), about 10 to 15 minutes. (Depending on how large or small you diced the sweet potato, the time can vary. Stir the chickpeas and cooked farro into the soup, and simmer a few minutes more until heated through. If the soup is too thick for your liking, add more stock or broth (or even water in a pinch). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve bowls of soup drizzled with olive oil or pesto and/or sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, if desired. *To yield 3 cups of cooked farro, you’ll need to cook about half of a 1-pound package (8 ounces, or about a heaping cup) of dried farro. The cooking time depends on the variety of farro you choose: pearled, semi-pearled, or whole (unpearled). Generally speaking, pearled and semi-pearled farro will cook in about half the time (20 to 30 minutes) as whole farro (45 to 60 minutes, or more). Simply follow the cooking instructions on the package, and start checking and tasting for doneness a few minutes before the lower end of the cooking time range given on the package. When it’s done, the farro should be tender, yet still a bit chewy.
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TUCKERMAN Words
&
Photos by Ashley Herrin
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Every spring, hoards of skiers, snow-
few-second descent of Tucks during
boarders and spectators make their
the warmer spring and early summer
way to the Tuckerman Ravine trail head
months.
at the Pinkham Notch visitor center. With equipment strapped firmly to their
Over the decades, Tuckerman attracted
backs, they begin their ascent of Tuck-
swarms of people all wanting to witness
erman. Like the thousands that came
the show of sportsmanship, or better
before them, they march upward – like
yet, become a part of the show. In the
ants in a row – to experience a piece of
30s, daredevil races drew large crowds
New England’s storied history.
to the Ravine. The three famed American Infernos were run in the 30s, while
Tuckerman Ravine is a bowl or amphi-
Olympic tryouts and giant slalom races
theater-like valley formed by a glacier.
were often held on Tuckerman.
The ravine itself is located on the southeast face of Mt. Washington. The first
For some, skiing or boarding the bowl is
known ski of Tuckerman Ravine was in
their last run of the season. Though you
April 1914, while the first recorded use of
never call ‘last run’ as that’s bad luck…
skis on Washington was in 1899. Today,
Tuckerman serves as the thrilling cap-
thousands of skiers can be found hiking
stone to the season. The rite of passage
the trail to the ravine for the hair-raising
to New England’s spring and summer.
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VOL. 14: THE CABIN FEVER ISSUE
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS, PHOTOGRAPHERS, RECIPE CRAFTERS Michelle Martin Jess Beer Shannon Brown Stephanie Krist Tina Picz-Devoe Jon Devoe Tricia Cronin Amanda Barker
SPECIAL ‘THANK YOU’ TO
Sally Manikian & the Shady Pines Sled Dog Team
EDITORIAL TEAM MANAGING EDITOR Mandi Tompkins FOUNDING PARTNERS Jenn Bakos & Ashley Herrin
LET’S CHAT! SUBMISSIONS submit@tellnewengland.com GENERAL INQUIRIES info@tellnewengland.com MANDI Mandi@tellnewengland.com ASHLEY Ashley@tellnewengland.com JENN Jenn@tellnewengland.com
- A Magazine for New England -
www.tellnewengland.com