Natural Mumma Magazine October 2018 by T5 Publications

Issue Fifteen October 2018

TakingCare CareOf OfYourself, Yourself,Your Your Tribe Taking And Our Our World... World... And

BUILT TO LAST - SUSTAINABLE FASHION - FAIRTRADE JEWELLERY NMM October 2018 1 - AGELESS SKINCARE

Never Miss A Thing... For all the best in: · ethical fashion · natural skincare and beauty · health and wellbeing · parenting and motherhood · healthy living and good eating · ecology and conservation · conscious lifestyle choices

all back issues available at Issuu Natural Mumma

Issue Five December 2017

Taking Care Of Yourself, Your Tribe And Our World

DRESS TO

IMPRESS Chic & Sustainable Partywear

Winter Holidays Unwrapped Exploring Ethical Tourism & Travel

Not Just A Pretty Face Season’s Best Eco Makeup

The Mane Event

Toxin Free Hairstyling

NMM December 2017

Issue Eight March 2018

Issue Seven February 2018

TakingCare CareOf OfYourself, Yourself,Your Your Tribe Taking And Our Our World... World... And

SPRING!

PASSION!

Getting Ready For The New Season

Gifts Of Love, Made With Feeling

Under Cover Expert Luxurious Lingerie Laid Bare

Ethically Engaged The True Cost Of Gold

Sowing Organic NMM February 2018

Digging Deep For Pesticide Free Produce

Flower Of The Frock NMM March 2018 Floral Fashion For Spring

www.naturalmumma.com

October 2018 NMM

Contents

Welcome To Natural Mumma Magazine

Jean Genius How ethical is denim?

Natural Mumma Roadtests... Monkee Genes

Ageless Beauty Celebrating your best skin and ageing gracefully

Drowning In Plastic by Sian Conway of #EthicalHour

Art Of Gold

Naqiyah Sultan of KASHKA on responsible jewellery

The Long Haul The lasting effects of long wear lipstick

Natural Mumma Makes... Zero Waste Christmas Cake Contact: holly@naturalmumma.com Photo by Gerard Hughes Holly wears Emily jeans by Monkee Genes Make up by Fat And The Moon Hair by Anita Grant.

e’ve had a brilliant time putting together this issue for you. In keeping with the ‘Built To Last’ theme this issue is packed full of sustainable fashion and durable, responsible jewellery and lifestyle brands. We delved into the truth behind denim production and found the best ethical brands out there. As part of our brand new ‘Natural Mumma Roadtests...’ series we are even trying out our own Monkee Genes to see how they wash and wear. We chatted with Naqiyah

Sultan of KASKA London to discover more about ethical and fair trade jewellery. We made a boozy whisky Christmas cake with ingredients sourced from the zero waste shop and we can’t wait to try it in 12 weeks time! In her column this month, Ethical Hour’s Sian Conway gave us a fascinating insight into how to make going plastic free a habit that lasts. We looked into the chemicals that go into longwear lipsticks and the devestating effects they can have on your health, and found some wonderful natural alternatives. If you like what you read don’t forget to check out the website as we are adding new articles all the time. We’ve also got a really exciting edition planned for November with our ‘Evolution’ issue and our Christmas Gift Guide is out in November too so there is plenty to look forward to. NMM October 2018

JEAN GENIUS From workwear staple to wardrobe essential, nothing is so widely worn as denim. A straightforward hardwearing cotton fabric, but just how ethical is your average pair of jeans?

enim is the world’s most used textile with 1.2 billion jeans sold worldwide each year. With their roots deep in durable workwear, denim is such a wardrobe staple that it is easy to forget the arduous and often hazardous production methods that go into making the most basic pair of jeans. Denim is primarily made up of cotton, a notoriously thirsty crop. Incredibly 25,000 litres of water is used to produce every kilogram of cotton. A study by Levi Strauss & Co revealed that producing one pair of Levi jeans requires a staggering 3781 litres of water. With 10 per cent of the world’s population deprived of clean water, these statistics are enough to make us reconsider where we purchase our denim. Unfortunately, the driest countries tend to manufacture the most water intense products. Pakistan is in the midst of a water crisis but still is one of the largest producers of cotton.

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Levi are taking action to reduce their water consumption through their Water<Less™ program. By removing water from certain processes they have managed to significantly reduce their water usage – by up to 96 per cent in certain styles. Cotton only takes up 2.5 per cent of the world’s agricultural land but it accounts for more than 11 per cent of global pesticide use. The toxicity of pesticides creates a hazardous work environment for cotton farmers. One million agricultural workers worldwide are hospitalised each year because of acute pesticide poisoning. Pesticides can also infiltrate soil and water supply systems, threatening food supplies and causing health risks. Harmful chemicals are frequently used in the dyeing process of denim. Azo dyes are commonly used and can release carcinogenic amines, posing a risk to both the environment and the health of the workers.

The trend for distressed look jeans has led to production methods such as sandblasting which can be hugely damaging to workers. As the name suggests, the process involves blasting the fabric with fine particles of sand in order to break down the fibres and soften the fabric. These sand particles get lodged in the workers’ lungs and can cause significant health risks. The good news is that there are companies out there that are socially responsible and transparent in their production methods. Buying good quality timeless denim and workwear wardrobe staples will mean the items not only last through the years but will soften and improve with age. These clothes are built to last with quality heavyweight fabrics, reinforced seams and durable fastenings.

Brands we love

We love the look of the clothing from Howies, which is a small active clothing company based in West Wales. They make clothes for the sports they are into - which includes biking, running and outdoor pursuits, but as they point out, they’re just as useful for our day to day lives. They focus on quality, believing that a product that is made better lasts longer and is, therefore, better for the environment and utilise low impact manufacturing processes. T-shirts, sweatshirts and jeans are made from organic cotton and ‘no silly stuff‘, such as water-polluting dyes. Their range of men’s jeans is of particular note in unwashed organic denims in great classic straight cut designs. The sort of jeans you’ll wear forever and they’ll only ever look better with each wash and wear. www.howies.co.uk

HoWl is an artisanal clothing brand that draws on simple utility styles, influenced by the traditional Cornish lifestyle to create characterful, contemporary workwear. HoWl is known for its hardy dungarees, culotte rompers and boiler suits in soft brushed cotton drills and denims. HoWl nurtures long-term relationships with customers, suppliers and wholesalers and strives to be a thoughtful brand, underpinned by ethical fabric sourcing, fair pricing and a commitment to making practical everyday clothes that can be worn throughout the seasons. www.howlstore.uk Pajotten creates simple contemporary garments in natural fibres. Detailing is considered and kept to a utilitarian minimum. Importantly the garments are a reflection of what the designers enjoy wearing and feel confident

in. While the detailing is pared down their sizing is generous, with a focus on comfort, pockets are deep and sleeves and hems are wide. All of their pieces are made to order individually in their Kent studio and finished by hand. All fabrics, trimmings and buttons are either sourced from UK mills and companies, or bought as ‘deadbolt’ from designer level studios. As a small brand, they are able to do things differently, rather than working to fixed seasons they simply add new pieces when they feel they are needed, this means there will always be something new on the website while your favourites will stay available. https://pajotten.com

NMM October 2018

Natural Mumma Roadtests...

Monkee

Genes D

emanding a combination of style and ethical manufacturing practices can leave slim pickings, especially when it comes to wardrobe essentials. Monkee Genes tick all of the boxes. We are passionate about ethical and sustainable fashion that is as stylish as it is eco conscious and socially responsible. We wanted to go a step further than simply recommending brands that fit with these principles. In our new ‘Natural Mumma roadtests...’ series we’ll be investigating the story behind a brand as well as reviewing how the clothing wears and washes. We will be putting these garments through their paces to truly establish the story behind the brand. We will be looking at their production methods and taking that story on into our own lives and adventures as the garments become part of our wardrobes. We’ll be posting regular updates over social media, the blog and in the magazine. First up is Monkee Genes. We feel like the only way to truly establish the durability of a garment is to wear it and so in keeping with the ethos of slow, sustainable fashion we’ll be reporting back on our jeans for a full year, showing you in real time

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how the jeans wash, wear and hold their shape. Monkee Genes were established in 2006 with a mission to prove that ethical fashion didn’t have to be dull and expensive. Their new collection launched this season and it has a cut and wash to suit every taste. Whether you are looking for a super skinny effect or skater wide leg, something classic or something with a vintage feel, there is something to suit everyone. There is even a collection of chinos in seven striking and wearable colours. Fabrics are carefully sourced and each item is built to last. With an ethical fashion manifesto that reads ‘No slave labour, no child labour, no blood, no sweat, no tears.’ it is clear that the brand behind Monkee Genes care about their people. Monkee Genes only use organic cotton that is free from toxic pesticides and has not been poisoned by harmful fertilisers. Their method of growing cotton produces 46 per cent less CO2 than conventional cotton. As a result, the soil quality is improved and wildlife thrives on the more fertile land. Local water systems are protected from potentially harmful contaminants and the agricultural workers are saved from being

exposed to artificial pesticides. The designers at Monkee Genes have worked closely with the manufacturers for the launch of their new Eco Wash collection which uses 80 per cent less water than traditional denim production. Monkee Genes organic jeans are produced in a GOTS certified factory in Indonesia who they have worked with for over ten years. They make regular visits to the factory to ensure that the team there are working in a happy and safe environment. When the jeans arrived we were immediately impressed by the quality of the denim. They are clearly well made and finished to a high standard. We love all the eco labels and the detailing adds a dash of personality. The denim is of a decent weight which suggests a certain durability. The worker jeans are of a lighter denim so they could be worn as a summer weight jean and will ‘break in’ more quickly. We were sent the Emily Slim Fit in Rinse and the Libby Straight Leg in Dark. The Loose Fit Worker in Dark and the Jack Tapered in Dark. The Libby is made from 100 per cent organically grown cotton and is a high rise parallel slim fit with a button fly. The Emily is a slim fit jean with a high rise back and

front mid rise. It is formed from 98 per cent organic cotton and 2 per cent lycra. The Worker is made in 100 per cent organically grown cotton and is a loose fit. The Jack is a tapered fit relaxed jean in 100 per cent organic cotton. So far weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re delighted with the look, fit and feel of the jeans and are looking forward to roadtesting them in the coming months. Keep an eye on our website, the social pages and upcoming issues of the magazine to keep track of our Monkee Genes journey. www.naturalmumma.com https://monkeegenes.com NMM October 2018

Natural Mumma Loves... Denimsmith A passionate dedication to the history and hardwork of the local community, Denimsmith launched in 2015 as a collaborative vision of veteran Australian designers and makers who are committed to the ethical production of high quality denim clothing. “Each Denimsmith piece is created from the finest denim and comes directly from our team’s skilled hands and hearts,” says Denimsmith Director and Master Jean Maker, Vinh.

With over two decades of denim expertise enriching every piece, Denimsmith takes locally made to a whole new level and is proudly accredited by Ethical Clothing Australia. Created from the finest denim, each Denimsmith item comes directly from their Melbourne (Australia) makers skilled hands and hearts. To discover more and view their Spring/Summer 2018 collection visit denimsmith.com.au

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MUD Jeans

MUD Jeans is a Dutch denim brand, known for the innovative circular ‘Lease A Jeans’ fashion concept. This new way of consuming moves away from the ownership economy towards one driven by meaningful experiences. The brand’s collection is a combination of minimal design and American vintage. All MUD Jeans contain post-consumer recycled denim and organic cotton. Current recycling techniques cause fibres to lose strength, and therefore limit jeans to containing 40 per cent recycled content. However, MUD Jeans aims to design jeans made of 100 per cent recycled denim.

The starting point of their designs is recycling. The fabrics they use contain at least 98 per cent cotton, they don’t use leather labels but printed logos. No polybags are used in their packing and hangtags are made out of recycled paper. They reuse the fabrics and make them useful again. Old jeans are shredded and mixed with new organic cotton. A new spun yarn containing recycled denim is born out of which new products are manufactured. An added value is that this circular process promotes job creation in the fields of recycling and remanufacturing (Ellen MacArthur Foundation). www.mudjeans.eu NMM October 2018

Ageless Skincare Celebrating your best skin and ageing gracefully

Pure Lakes Cleanser, Hydration Cream & Facial Oil

Green People Vita Min Fix 24 Hour Cream

This powerful trio is the perfect way to start your day, leaving your skin with a healthy radiance. The cleanser leaves you with beautifully clean, refreshed skin, the facial oil nourishes and firms and the cream is a real indulgence with a sensual scent that leaves your skin deliciously smooth.

Packed with vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids this natural and organic cream plumps and softens the skin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and boosting your skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hydration. It absorbs quickly and leaves your skin feeling super soft to the touch. Ideal as a base for makeup.

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Silvan Skincare Radiance Balm

As our skin ages, it becomes less efficient at holding in water. This balm is a wonderful way to protect and nurture the skin. This is a truly versatile product, use as a cleanser, treatment mask or facial oil for noticeable results. This handy balm is packed with organic oils that feed the skin.

Willow Nightly Rejuvenation Balm This hydrating balm plumpens and firms the skin. Use as a cleanser to effectively remove all traces of makeup, and leave your skin feeling soft and nourished. Apply before bed for a nourishing treat that will help your skin to heal, repair and hydrate, leaving you with radiant and healthy skin on waking.

Natural Elements Hydrating WOW Plus Kit

This powerful range focuses on skin cell regeneration. The gentle gel clarifies the skin without Neom drying, the konjac sponge gently Mist, Hand Balm & Pulse Point exfoliates and encourage new cell The mood lifting mist with growth. The facial oil adds radiance mandarin mint making smells itdivine, and feeds and the skin, ideal the balmand offersevening an uplifting for hand daytime use. scent and rich moisturisation and The cream soothes and nurtures. the pulse point energises. A truly holistic approach to beauty.

For more natural and chemical free skincare and beauty, check out Natural Mummaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pregnancy & Newborn Essentials Guide Download for free here

NMM October 2018

Natural Mumma Loves... Boho Homes

Made from one of the most versatile sustainable materials around, these bamboo bowls are handmade and use cruelty free dyes. The raw bamboo is cut down into very small strips, softened and then moulded into shape. It is then dried in natural sunlight before being sanded and thoroughly polished. Delicate and highly skilled workmanship is needed to achieve a perfect iridescent finish where several layers of coloured lacquer are applied by hand.

https://www.bohohomes.co.uk/ This vibrant range of wooden votives and coasters is made from durable sustainable mangowood. Each piece is manually cut and moulded, before being handpainted using traditional techniques.

One of their bestsellers, these bowls are made from real coconut shells. The eggshell effect has been lacquered by hand in Vietnam under fair trade conditions. Mother of pearl is also used. Discarded coconut shells are picked, de-husked and smoothed. Can be used as decoration or for practical purposes to display trinkets or serve snacks.

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These organic cotton mesh bags are ideal for your plastic free and zero waste shopping trips, as well as storing fresh fruit and vegetables. Made in a fair trade co-op, these bags provide both a living and chance of rehabilitation to physically challenged workers.

by Sian Conway, Founder #EthicalHour

Drowning in Plastic - but what can we do about it? E

very piece of plastic you’ve ever thrown away still exists somewhere today - so it’s no surprise that by 2050 we’re on track to have more plastic than fish in the sea. The Blue Planet II effect seems to be in full swing as straw bans spread across cities and consumers everywhere are taking to Twitter to challenge supermarkets on their over use of plastic packaging. October started with a bang for the plasticfree community, as Biologist and Wildlife Presenter Liz Bonnin brought the harsh realities of plastic pollution back into our living rooms with the BBC Documentary Drowning In Plastic. It’s hard to watch as she tracks plastic pollution across the globe from Tasmania to the Arctic and all the way through our food chain. From giant, mile-long ‘plasticbergs’ blocking whole rivers to baby seabirds vomiting up chunks of plastic - the footage is harrowing and almost impossible to ignore. Plastic might currently be public enemy number one, but it’s important to remember that in some circumstances, it saves lives. From medical devices to impactresistant vehicle parts and even food packaging - without plastic people all around the world would undeniably suffer.

The problem isn’t plastic straws or disposable coffee cups in isolation - it’s the way we consume. For example, people want affordable, conveniently sourced food all year round, which relies on complicated, international food chains that rely on plastic packaging for hygiene and preservation. To go plastic free and cook sustainably you need to move back to locally sourced, seasonal eating - but demand for convenience is going up so it’s unlikely that many consumers are willing to make this change. Plastic truly is made to last. The world has manufactured more plastic in the last decade than in the whole of the previous century. The most durable plastic items - including things many people use everyday like bottles and disposable nappies, can take 450 years to biodegrade. That’s over

five times the average life expectancy for someone in the UK. It’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the extent of the problem. Without an obvious solution, it can leave us feeling powerless and unable to change our consumption. According to research, 92 per cent of people say that minimising their impact on the environment is important to them, but more than a quarter (26 per cent) exaggerate their environmental credentials to alleviate “green guilt”. Instead of feeling this green shame but not really changing our behaviour, we need to work together to build more sustainable habits. Fight the plastic-free fatigue by making less plastic a long-term lifestyle choice for you and your family, instead of a crash diet that’s likely to see you fall off the wagon. This isn’t a problem we’re going to solve alone. We need government regulations and industry innovations, as well as a change in consumer behaviour. But just because you can’t change everything doesn’t mean you can’t change something, one small step at a time. Twitter: @EthicalHour and @SianEConway Instagram: @EthicalHour NMM October 2018

ART OF

GOLD Naqiyah Sultan of KASHKA London shares her thoughts on responsible jewellery.

ur demand for precious raw material that can be manipulated into a beautiful piece of jewellery, regardless of whether it has been freshly mined or recycled, begins with the need for mining. This extraction process can be devastating and uses dynamite to explode apart the land. After that, piles of crushed ore are sprayed with deadly cyanide, which helps collect all of the gold and silver. This process is heavily repeated and creates dangerous amounts of toxic waste. As a consequence, this toxic waste can seep its way into neighbouring habitats. In a report by Earthworks and Mining Watch Canada, Troubled Waters states that, each year, mining companies dump in excess of 180 million tonnes of these hazardous mine wastes into rivers, oceans and lakes. That’s more than 1.5 times the amount of waste that US cities send to landfills each year. I want to make it perfectly clear that I am not calling for a universal boycott on precious metals, stones or mass manufacturing jewellery factories. I fully acknowledge – and believe – that everyone has a right to a livelihood. For many, mining is the only livelihood they have. We are demanding changes in the way that metals are extracted and

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jewellery is produced. All too often, jewellery is produced at the expense of communities, workers and the environment. We are demanding alternatives to “dirty” – or irresponsibly produced – metals and stones. Traditionally, jewellery has been seen as a more durable purchase when compared to clothing, but a number of changes in the market now indicate that the concept of fast fashion may be coming to the jewellery industry too. This change, in part, is a response to customer expectations but, more than anything, is reflective of technological changes. Slow is the way forward, but if you need something fast, then perhaps you can ask the question how was it made and at what cost? As for us at KASHKA, we apply the overarching term of ‘responsible’. We are, by no means, perfect, but we are working towards it. We would like to celebrate and maintain that our supply chain will be sourced fairly, regardless of whether our materials are recycled or artisanally mined. This statement is not just restricted to the materials we source either, but covers our production processes, wages and working conditions. We want to ensure that the individuals within

our wider workforce are happy, treated in the same way we would want to be treated and have hopes, dreams and desires – just like we do; we want to ensure that these staff members are paid fair wages that they can live on; lastly, we want to ensure that the working conditions are safe and enable them to achieve their goals. We never want our staff to feel in despair, but feel proud of their livelihood and enjoy being apart of our story. At KASHKA London we pride ourselves on only working with responsibly sourced metals and gemstones. We choose to work with Artisinal mines such as Fairtrade and Fairmined for our precious metals as well as working with small scale mines for our gemstones. We further ensure our natural diamonds come from Canadian mines and all our diamonds above 0.25cts are certified gems to ensure that they have not funded any war crimes in their mining areas. We’ve got a two prong approach to our business. We have the one aspect with the ready to wear on trend jewellery, yes slow fashion can also be trendy, which is perfect for the everyday and for gifting, and we have the bespoke and wedding boutique services which can help you find the perfect gift for your loved ones.

We design jewellery for the every day woman, and aim to create versatile jewellery that can be worn from day to night and office to dance floor. We have a range of jewellery at different prices - and also have a selection of matching jewellery sets. All of our jewellery comes in a beautiful box and is the perfect gift to unwrap on any occasion. Our bridal ranges are designed for couples from all walks of life who want to mark the most important day of their life. For the traditionalists we can create your ring in Fairtrade gold with a natural diamond or gemstones, but for those looking for the Complete Ethical Engagement Ring, we can create this by using Lab Grown diamonds with Fairtrade gold. Ethical, fairly sourced, responsible jewellery is still in the early days of its journey and jewellers across the world are trying to find the best possible options, everyone can do better and we will do better. An industry built on joy and momentous occasions should not come at the cost of people and planet. https://www.kashkalondon.co.uk http://www.fairluxury.co.uk

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Natural Mumma Loves... Lucy Jade Sylvester Fine Botanical Jewellery. Lucy has a passion for our British countryside, she is not only inspired by it, she uses it directly to create her collections. Exact replicas of leaves, seed heads and twigs create a collection of botanical jewellery with the finest details in silver and gold. www.lucysylvester.co.uk

Shakti Ellenwood At the heart of Shakti Ellenwood’s exquisite designs is her passion for creating ethical jewellery. Handcrafted, using conflict free gemstones and 18ct Fairtrade gold, each design blends centuries old artisanal skills with Ellenwood’s distinctive aesthetic. Inspired by ancient cultures, every piece is an heirloom designed to be treasured for generations. https://www.shaktiellenwood.com

Wearth Smoke and Ash was created in 2017 by Sarah Adams who after taking a course discovered a passion for jewellery making. Each piece of jewellery that Sarah makes is handcrafted at her home workshop in the South East of England. At the heart of Sarah’s endeavours is a dedication to creating a business which is sustainable. Her stunning jewellery is made from recycled sterling silver and all her packaging is made from recycled materials including even her business cards which are made from 100 per cent recycled cotton T-shirts. www.wearthlondon.com

AYA AYA is an exclusive jewellery range that captures the beauty of Africa through its rare and precious gemstones and exquisite African craftmanship so that each piece of AYA jewellery embodies the unique charm of Africa. The Twa earrings are inspired by the Pygmy people of Africa. The Twa are believed to be the oldest surviving indigenous population. https://aya.co.uk/

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Taking Care Of Yourself, Your Tribe And Our World...

Pregnancy & Newborn Essentials 2018

The Best Start For Bump & Baby...

Available now download for free at Issuu

Next Month In

Natural Mumma

EVOLUTION All things reclaimed, reused, and repurposed - from accessories to interiors.

Natural Mumma Magazine October 2018

NMM Team Editor: Holly Daffurn

holly@naturalmumma.com

Creative: Gerard Hughes mail@gerardhughes.co.uk

Cover Image by Gerard Hughes www.naturalmumma.com Natural Mumma Magazine

is produced by T5 Publications. Contents may not be reproduced, stored or distributed in any form without prior written permission. All reasonable efforts have been made to ensure all information contained in this magazine is accurate but the publishers can accept no responsibiilty for effects arising therefrom. All rights reserved. We receive compensation for all products featured on the ‘Natural Mumma Loves...’ pages as well as several of the other brands mentioned in the magazine. We only work with companies whose ethos reflects the intention of this publication. All of the written content is copyright Natural Mumma Magazine (unless stated otherwise) and full rights to this material belongs to Natural Mumma Magazine (or any other named authors).

NMM October 2018

THE

LONG HAUL

the lasting effects of longwear lipst L

ipstick is so deep rooted in our psyches that its sales are used by stock market traders as a barometer of economic trends. According to the theory, a rise in lipstick sales indicates a downturn in the market due to the concept that consumers revert to affordable and cheerful purchases when things feel uncertain. After the terrorist attacks of September 11th the sales in lipsticks doubled for several months. Reddened lips mirror the naturally occurring flush that comes with arousal, they also project a sense of youth and

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healthiness. Most women report to feeling more confident when their lips are painted and with 80 per cent of British women wearing lipstick on a daily basis the industry is booming. When it comes to lipstick, alongside finding your perfect red, the holy grail is finding one with true staying power. Since Hazel Bishop launched the first “kissproof lipsticks” in 1950 the demand for lipsticks which won’t transfer has been high. The appeal of these lipsticks is that once they are in place they stay put. There is a certain charm

to being at an event and having every confidence that your lipstick is as flawless as it was when it was first applied. It makes beauty look effortless. It makes even the most polished look effectively low maintenance. However, try wearing these sorts of formulas for more than one day in a row and you’ll no doubt find that your lips can’t handle the dehydration. It is not only the drying effect that indicates that these lipsticks are far from healthy, many of them sting as soon as they come into contact with the skin and the fact that they can cling to the skin for

tick

so long is a sure warning sign that these formulations are as far from natural as possible. Delve a little deeper and you soon uncover the undeniable truth. Longwear lipsticks may be convenient and pack a powerful punch but they tend to be loaded with highly toxic chemicals. Modern formulations tend to include a combination of plastics, nylon and silicones that effectively glue pigment onto the surface of the lips. There is a certain family of lipsticks that wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t budge. Once youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve made the commitment to

apply them to your skin they will stay in place until you can find a makeup remover strong enough to tackle them. These highly pigmented products often have a syrupy finish that soon has a drying effect. In the early days, they came with a colourless balm that helped to keep some moisture in, or at least gives the illusion of moisture. The more recent efforts are heavily laced with silicones and volatile oils. The complex silicones form a mixture with volatile oils, the oils help to spread the pigment across the skin but soon evaporate

leaving a transfer resistant and durable layer of colour. Every year the top makeup brands release new promises of lipsticks that offer the perfect trinity of colour, durability and nourishing texture. In order to remove these lip products, new removers had to be developed. Popular versions are heavy with solvents and crosslinked silicone elastomers which are as toxic as they sound. The trend in longwear lipsticks containing solvent based ingredients is climbing. Isododecane is one such solvent that is commonly used to reduce NMM October 2018

product transfer. This volatile, synthetic substance evaporates on contact with the skin causing the colourants bind to the lip while leaving behind a coveted lightweight, matte finish. This chemical is an excellent solvent and dispersion agent, with its volatile nature and low flash point. Solvents such as alcohol are commonly used in longlasting lip products. They are drying and can cause irritation. According to a study published in the Journal of Hospital Infection, regular exposure to solvent based products caused a loss in the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural protective barrier meaning that water and cleansing agents were able to penetrate with greater ease. This resulted in skin that was significantly more vulnerable to viruses, bacteria, mould and infection.

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These synthetic ingredients have been linked to acute inflammation of the lips (cheilitis). Synthetic colours (especially coal tar dyes) are not only common allergens but they are also carcinogenic. Many lipsticks also contain chemical fragrances that can be neurotoxic and are associated with photosensitivity and dermatitis. The list of ingredients in a single lipstick is often long and complex. There is a convenient loophole in current labelling legislation that allows manufacturers to forgo putting ingredients on products that have small packages. This makes lipsticks the perfect product to house hidden (and potentially harmful) ingredients. In 2004, the Environmental Working Groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s survey Skin Deep examined 711 individual lipsticks, concluding that 28

per cent contained ingredients that were associated with cancer risk â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this list includes butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), nylon-6, ferric red (iron) oxide, polyethylene and titanium dioxide. Nylon compounds, red iron oxide and titanium dioxide are present in several of the current best selling longwear lipsticks. D&C Red 21, a commonly used red fluorescent dye, is one raw material that is commonly used to create effective, lasting colour. This dye responds to moisture on the skin, providing a stain that remains even after the original product has long worn off. Water-insoluble dyes or bromo acid dyes such as D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27 and D&C Orange 5 have been used since the 1920s to deliver blue-red and orange-red shades. Coal tar dyes included

these listed have been shown to contribute to numerous health conditions including ADD, ADHD and asthma. The carcinogenic properties of coal tar dyes has led to them being banned in many countries to the extent that California’s Proposition 65 requires a cancer warning on any product that contains them. These synthetic dyes also contain heavy metal salts that deposit toxins deep into the skin leading to irritation and sensitivity. Having a lipcolour that lasts the day is an appealing prospect, but when you look at the health risks then the appeal quickly fades.

There are plenty of lipcolours out there that are made entirely from natural ingredients and will nourish your lips while adding a welcome hint of colour. They may not last the 12-24 hours that their chemically laced competitors are claiming, but you can rest assured that they will be gentler on your skin and the environment. Look for natural lipsticks that are highly pigmented. Natural dyes can be offer striking hues. Matte formulas will last longer, just be sure to opt for something that will moisturise and not dry out the skin. The majority of natural lipsticks include ingredients that will nourish and protect as well as adding colour. Steer clear of anything too glossy or shiny if you are looking for an effect that lasts. For extra longevity, apply a layer of waxy lipliner to the entire lip

surface before applying your lip colour. Refrain from finishing with gloss and keep your lips in top condition to give your lipstick the best possible canvas to cling to.

Natural Mumma recommends: Ilia’s Beauty Tinted Lipstick in Arabian Nights Make’s Matte Lipstick in Fire (paraben free and hypoallergenic) MIA Paris’s Matte Lipstick in Bold Bergamot

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Natural Mumma Loves... Squidge & Smudge Squidge & Smudge offers a unique range of organic baby and toddler clothes handmade in the UK by two Mums. Their outfits are cloth nappy and baby wearing friendly and made to last. These lovely soft Grow-With-Me trousers are designed to fit your baby for a long time, thanks to the adjustable waist and cuffs option. www.squidgeandsmudge.co.uk

Blue Brontide

Blue Brontide is founded on the belief that children’s items should not only be beautiful but built to last - becoming treasures in your family that will be passed down to others. With this in mind they have brought together sustainable designs and coveted brands to deliver a carefully curated collection of eco-friendly, natural and non-toxic baby | kids tableware, toys and more with green conscious parents in mind. bluebrontide.com

MuslinZ

Sleep Organic

White sateen cot duvet cover and cot bed duvet cover set with adorable embroidered bunny. Their wonderfully soft sateen cotton is perfectly suited for your child’s sleep! With their exclusive use of 100 per cent certified organic cotton, you can have complete peace of mind that your child’s bed linen is free of harmful chemicals and pesticides. Includes cot duvet cover, cot bed duvet cover set finished with safe metal snap buttons and matching pillowcase. White cotton with a luxurious 300 thread count. https://www.sleeporganic.co.uk

October 2018 NMM

Baby accessories specialist MerryGoRoundUK has launched its own sustainable Muslinz nappy wrap range. The new MuslinZ Washable Nappy Wrap has been added to its Cloth Nappies range to be used with its Muslin Squares, Prefolds and Terry Squares. The Muslinz Washable Nappy Wrap is available in two sizes. Both sizes have double gussets which are ideal for Terry Squares and available in pure White and the popular MuslinZ Mint-Grey Stars. https://merrygorounduk.co.uk/

Herzog

Herzog is the brainchild of Michigan born illustrator Emma Berger, who started the company with a goal of offering design forward dog accessories that were truly eco friendly. The collars come in a wide range of stylish designs and feature hand painted vegan cork leather with natural cork strap linings. Available in three sizes, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a collar for every dog. The leads incorporate cork and Rawganique eco hemp webbing handles and 100 per cent cotton rope. Each Herzog collar and leash is lovingly hand made in Emmaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s studio in Melbourne, Australia. www.herzogshop.com

NMM April 2018

“...with twelve weeks until Christmas, it was the perfect time...”

September 2018 NMM

You Will Need: 1kg mixed dried fruit (we used raisins, currants, cherries and dates) zest and juice 1 orange zest and juice 1 lemon 150ml whisky (plus 2 tablespoons to ‘feed’ the cake) 250g pack butter, softened 200g light soft brown sugar 175g plain flour 100g ground almonds ½ tsp baking powder 2 tsp mixed spice 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger 100g hazelnuts 4 large eggs

natural mumma makes

ZERO WASTE CHRISTMAS CAKE I

n keeping with the ‘Built To Last’ theme, we wanted to create a recipe that was steeped in tradition. Something that was passed through the generations and had no chance of fading. With 12 weeks until Christmas, it was the perfect time to bake a Christmas cake and let it mellow and soften through the weeks. Feeding the cake with whisky means we’ll have a beautifully boozy and moist cake to enjoy over the festive period. We decided to set ourselves the challenge of sourcing all of the ingredients (aside from the whisky) from the zero waste shop, so we took a trip to Nature’s Intentions in Bromsgrove. They had a great selection of spices, dried fruit and nuts. We even managed to pick up some baking powder. We decided to use traditional cinnamon and mixed spice

with ginger for an extra kick. We opted for dates for additional stickiness and sweetness with hazelnuts for flavour and texture. You can choose whatever dried fruits and nuts you feel like, dependent on whether you favour more traditional flavours or want to put your own spin on it. Brandy, sherry and rum would work as alternatives to whisky. For a dairy free alternative you can use chia seeds instead of eggs and coconut oil instead of butter. Soak 4 tablespoons of chia seeds in 150ml of water and leave to soak for 5 minutes until they form a firm gel. Add them to the recipe in the same way you would use the eggs and butter. Gluten free flour can also be used. There are plenty of ways in which you can make this traditional recipe your own. NMM September 2018

Melt butter gently in a large pan over a medium heat. Slowly add the sugar and stir until dissolved.

Stir in all of the dried fruit and alcohol before adding the zest and juice of the citrus fruit.

Bring the mixture to the boil before reducing the heat and letting it simmer for 5 minutes. Do not to let the sugar stick.

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Turn the mixture into a large bowl and allow to cool for half an hour.

In the meantime, heat your oven to 150 (or 130 for fan assisted ovens) or gas mark 2. Prepare your cake tin by greasing and flouring it and double lining the base with parchment.

Line the sides with a single layer of baking parchment before wrapping newspaper around the outside and securing with string.

Add flour, spices, nuts and eggs to the fruit mixture. Stir well to ensure that everything is well combined.

Spoon the mixture into your prepared tin and level off the top. Bake in the centre of the oven for 2 hours.

Once the cake has cooked through you will be able to insert a skewer into the centre and it will come out clean.

Take the cake from the oven and poke with holes at regular intervals. Spoon 2 tablespoons of whisky across the cake’s surface.

Leave the cake to cool in the tin, before carefully peeling away the baking parchment.

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Cover in your preferred sustainable wrap before placing in an airtight tin.

Store the cake in a cool, dark place and ‘feed’ with 1-2 tbsp of whisky every fortnight.

If you plan to ice your cake, leave at least a week after ‘feeding’ it before you ice it just prior to consumption. Alternatively, you could top your cake with glacé cherries and slices of crystallised ginger arranged in concentric circles.

October 2018 NMM

natural mumma makes

Storing Your Cake If you want a really rich and moist cake then you need to make it well in advance. Early to mid October is the ideal time to bake your cake. This will allow all of the flavours time to really mature and blend. For real depth of flavour, you need to keep on top of feeding your cake with whisky, brandy or rum each fortnight. If you are short on time you can still make a pretty decent cake a month before the big event. You need to ensure that your cake tin is properly lined, the newspaper will prevent the sides of the cake tin from getting too hot and burning the cake. As fruit cake takes such a long time to bake this is really important. You should also take care that the cake is well wrapped and sealed in an airtight container to preserve it properly until Christmas. Once it has been iced it no longer needs to stay in the tin.

Natural Mumma YouTube Channel You can find this recipe and plenty more on the Natural Mumma YouTube channel www.youtube.com/naturalmumma

NMM October 2018

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October 2018 NMM