Tail Fly Fishing Magazine - Issue 50 Nov/Dec 2020

CELEBRATING 8 YEARS AS THE VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING

FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020

LOS CABOS HAS BALLS

TUBE FLIES for Billfish SEA TROUT in Northern Europe REWA Reflections The SAYONARA Sling A Fish MY AGE CHROME from the Sea

50

NOV/DEC 2020

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 1

%(67 2) 6+2:

%(67 2) 6+2:

%(67 2) 6+2:

)/< 52' 6$/7:$7(5

'(19(5 &2

'(19(5 &2

A WHOLE NEW LEVEL OF HIGH-PER 2 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

RFORMANCE, HANDCRAFTED FLY RODS.

SCOTTFLYROD.COM • (970) 249-3180

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 3

4 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Bundle up and make the cast to some morning reds in the winter on the west coast of northern Florida. Photo: Mike Martin

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 5

6 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

The iconic arch of Cabo San Lucas is the gateway to the sea and the last natural structure you pass on your way out to the blue. Photo: Ruth Peterkin

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 7

Lofoten, Norway, has flats as clear and blue as those in Belize, though the gray sky accentuates the difference between the locales. Photo: Nick Fox

8 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 9

10 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TM

GUIDE TESTED.

GUIDE TRUSTED.

On the Cover: Andrea Izzotti is an award-winning wildlife photographer based in Genova, Italy.

These photos are from a shoot in Cabo San Lucas,

Mexico. Story on page 28.

Editor-In-Chief: Joseph Ballarini Managing Editor: George V. Roberts

Creative Director: Scott Morrison

Food Editor: Kelli Prescott

Travel Editor: Peter McLeod

Historians: Pete Barrett & Ed Mitchell

Editors-at-Large: Joe Doggett Mark Hatter Trey Reid Ryan Sparks James P. Spica Jr.

Intern to the Editor: Heather Thomas

Creative Contributors: Joseph Ballarini Oleg Breslavtsev Sammy Chang Barry Ord Clarke Johann du Preez Nick Fox Kyle Gemas Mark B. Hatter Henry Hughes

Andrea Izzotti James Jackson Jim Levison Anthony Loganzo Arthur J. Lux Michael Martin Ruth Peterkin Trey Reid

George Roberts Mark Sedotti Kurt Schiele Cameron Scott Scott Sommerlatte Ryan Sparks E. Donnall Thomas Jr. Lori Thomas

Correction: In issue 49, September/October 2020, we incorrectly spelled the photographer’s name of the photo essay “Redfish Road Trip.” Our sincere apologies to Paul Doughty.

About Tail Fly Fishing Magazine is the voice of saltwater fly fishing in a bimonthly print and digital publication. We focus on delivering high-quality content, the very best photography, destination travel, reputable commentary, and technical features from the saltwater fly fishing culture. Tail Fly Fishing Magazine began as a digital publication in 2012 and debuted as a print magazine in 2016. Combined, the digital and print versions reach readers in over 45 countries.

In many places throughout the world, fly fishing has become important to both people and the environment. As a method of fishing imbued with values of stewardship and conservation, it connects people with the marine world in significant and positive ways. We, the anglers, are the last line of defense for our outdoor spaces.

Tail Fly Fishing Magazine supports the arts and creativity, conservation, and organizations that trumpet this message. We’re grateful for your support and we welcome photographic and written contributions.

TFFM is published six times annually, and your print subscription includes the digital version. Subscriptions are available through our website. International subscriptions are also available for most countries. Please contact our general mailbox, admin@tailflyfishing.com, with any advertising, subscription, or submission questions.

Tail Fly Fishing Magazine 2300 Alton Road Miami Beach, FL 33140 305-763-8285 tailflyfishing.com

engineered with patented features

More ... For Less [ Explore The Difference ] Visit Us:

www.3-TAND.com 203.345.7000

IN LOVING MEMORY OF JOHN C. MELFI

info@3-TAND.com @3tandreels

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 11 60 Watson Blvd.

Stratford, CT 06615

CONTENTS

12 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

18

INSIDE THE BOX - Arthur J. Lux Tube flies—they’re not just for Atlantic salmon anymore.

20

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE - TFFM Staff The perfect holiday hookups for anyone who lives the lifestyle.

28

LOS CABOS HAS BALLS - Photo Essay by

Andrea Izzotti and Joseph Ballarini

In late October schools of sardines begin to ball up

off Cabo San Lucas—and the pack is not far behind.

36

42

REWA REFLECTIONS - Kyle Gemas Guyana may be infamous as the home of Jim Jones and the Peoples Temple Cult, but it’s also home to one of the largest freshwater fish in the world. There’s some Kool-Aid we can all drink!

52

BOURBON - Trey Reid

TFFM’s newest editor-at-large, Trey Reid,

schools us on the uniquely American spirit—

recipes included.

70

SEA TROUT IN NORTHERN EUROPE

- Barry Ord Clarke

Norway is known for big, powerful rivers filled

with salmon. Lesser known is its thriving sea

trout fishery—no lodge, guide, or license

required. But you might want to bundle up.

76

THE SAYONARA SLING - Mark Sedotti Casting guru Mark Sedotti teaches you how to unleash the secret weapon for two-handed distance with a single-handed rod.

ON THE PLATE: VENISON - Kelli Prescott Red meat wild game—Italian-style.

NO SANCOCHO - Mark B. Hatter “You did everything right,” Philipps said.

“Everything except cast when I told you to.” Just another lousy day billfishing in Guatemala, so details were bound to get lost in translation.

86

CHROME FROM THE SEA - E. Donnall Thomas Jr. Fishing for Pacific salmon in rivers is all well and good, but the author prefers to angle them in the ocean, while they’re still in the eating mood.

94

58

A FISH MY AGE - Henry Hughes Join the author on a night sea journey—in the dead of winter—to hunt for the one of the West Coast’s longestlived gamefish.

64

POEM - Cameron Scott “Circumnavigating the Island”

96

INDIAN OCEAN BONES - Peter McLeod Go along with TFFM’s travel editor, Peter McLeod, to the Seychelles, where you’ll stalk a ghost of a different color.

104

THE UNDERTOW: TURKEY IN THE STRAW - George V. Roberts

Photo: Kyle Weaver TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 13

Letter from the Editor THE NOVEMBER ISSUE is the final installment of TFFM for 2020, and as a team we’re happy to see this year come to a close. While our usual freedoms have been limited by the year’s most improbable events, most of us have found a way to make the best of the situation. Our hearts go out to the businesses large and small that have not been able to survive the tribulations of 2020. At the same time we laud those with courage and tenacity to try something new during such a turbulent time.

WE HAVE TAKEN this downtime to rethink and analyze our publication, particularly the structure and content of each issue. There are some changes coming in 2021 that we’re sure will take TFFM to the next level.

ON MY INTERNAL REEL of motivation there is a quote from a very unlikely source, the late Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel, the French fashion designer and businesswoman. She once said, “In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different.” Take this with some discretion; for if you’ve never seen a runway show, their idea of different can sometimes be described as bizarre. There is a real message in her statement, however, and one that I’ve internalized: Lead, don’t follow.

AS AN EDITOR, some of my letters and features have gone against the grain of popular thinking, receiving both praise and criticism. I appreciate the feedback from both sides. For those of you who have sent negative emails, or telephoned the office directly, you can attest that I responded personally to address your concerns rather than hiding behind the corporate facade. It’s my hope you are still reading despite our differences in opinion.

A KNIFE WITHOUT AN EDGE cannot make a cut.

We’re sharpening our blade.

WE HAVE ALREADY INTRODUCED Andy Mill and his son Nicky Mill to the editorial lineup for 2021.

And we’ll continue to announce more editors and contributors who are highly regarded authorities in their areas to help steer the TFFM ship. Three new additions—Nathaniel Linville of The Angling Company in Key West, Dr. Elizabeth Wallace of the Florida Wildlife Commission, and Jon Olch, author of A Passion for Permit—are inked in on the editorial calendar. We have also invited some of our previous contributors to take a more prominent role in the magazine. You’ll be seeing more of Trey Reid, E. Donnall Thomas, Brent Hannafan, James P. Spica Jr., and Joe Doggett.

AS ALWAYS, we invite new writers and photographers to submit content for consideration. As the editor, I’ve always wanted to make a 100-percent readergenerated issue, similar to the all-female issue we did awhile back. I encourage readers to submit contributions or contact me directly if you’re interested in seeing your work appear in the pages of TFFM. WE ARE CLOSING OUT THE YEAR with an issue we’re all proud of, filled with considerable content, including some fantastic photos from TFFM regular Mark Hatter as well as a spectacular photo essay shot by a National Geographic photographer from Italy, Andrea Izzotti.

As we say with each issue, this one is better than the last.

Enjoy,

Dr. Joseph Ballarini Editor-in-Chief

Grand Slam slate carving by Leroy. Ambergris Caye, Belize.

14 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

VICTOR CASTRO (1962 - 2020)

by Trey Reid Victor Manuel Castro Gutierres was

Judging by the outpouring of grief

speargun for a fly rod, and dedicated

my fishing guide when we met in

and sympathy for Castro’s family, my

himself to ecological tourism and fly

2007. Over the next 13 years he be-

experience wasn’t unique. He touched

fishing.

came much more than that.

the lives of thousands of traveling fly anglers from across the world

“My dad was a commercial fisherman

He was a mentor, sharing his knowl-

over 25 years of guiding the waters

for many years, and he struggled a

edge of saltwater fly fishing and the

around the small fishing village of

lot to bring the daily bread to our

coastal ecosystem of Mexico’s south-

Xcalak, Mexico. With infinite patience,

table, with many limitations,” said

ern Yucatan Peninsula, as well as a

a sly sense of humor, and unflinching

his son, Victor Manuel Castro Arreola.

dear friend. Even though we lived

integrity, he altered the fly fishing

“Over the years he founded his

nearly 1,200 miles apart, we stayed

landscape on Mexico’s Caribbean

business, Osprey Tours.… He became

in touch with regular messages and

coastline, playing an integral part

passionate about the flats. He was a

social media. He guided me to my

in the development of a low-impact,

fighter. His life changed.”

first bonefish in 2007 and my first

ecologically friendly tourism indus-

permit last March (see “Journey to

try centered on Chetumal Bay flats

Castro hosted anglers from the US,

Xcalak,” issue 48, July/August).

fishing.

Canada, Mexico, South America, and

A saltwater fly fishing trailblazer on

Born December 14, 1962 in Xcalak,

velopment as a fly fishing destination

Mexico’s southern Caribbean coast,

Castro grew up fishing with his father

that filled a gap between Ascension

Castro died August 8 in Chetumal,

and started his career as a commer-

and Espiritu Santo bays to the north

Mexico, after a brief battle with

cial fisherman. Twenty-five years ago

and Ambergris Caye, Belize, to the

COVID-19. He was 57.

he took an English course, traded his

south.

Europe, contributing to Xcalak’s de-

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 15

THE FIRST TIME I FISHED WITH CASTRO, IN 2007, HE RETURNED MY TIP BECAUSE HE THOUGHT IT WAS TOO MUCH COMPENSATION FOR THE NUMBER OF FISH WE SAW.

Brianna, Victor Alonso, and Samuel.

“We have great weather for fishing,

He also left behind many friends and

but now we don’t have fishermen,” he

extended family members in Xcalak.

said. “Such is life.”

When word of Castro’s death spread on social media, friends from around

When a tornado ripped through the

the globe shared scores of thoughts

busy commercial area of a city not

and condolences on his and family

far from my home last spring, he

members’ Facebook pages.

sent a message to make sure my family and I were okay. We routinely

Both of Castro’s parents and his

swapped fishing pictures, and shortly

sister also died from COVID-19 in a

after I submitted “Journey to Xcalak”

span of just a few weeks, and with

to our editors, with my friend on my

few clients visiting Xcalak because

mind, I was inspired to make my own

of coronavirus travel restrictions,

homemade banana-leaf tamales.

the family’s finances were strained.

They weren’t nearly as good as Flo-

A GoFundMe page to help defray

ra’s, and I told him so when I shared

the family’s medical bills doubled its

a photo.

fundraising target in two days.

“Those tamales look delicious,” he He led countless anglers to their first bonefish, permit, and tarpon over the years, poling his pangas Lizbeth, Yamily, and Brianna across Chetumal Bay, but he was especially fond of wading the flats in search of bonefish.

“Walk like a cat,” he often advised.

“The bonefish is very spooky.”

Castro exhibited unyielding patience and had a knack for connecting novices with the bay’s wary denizens.

He used a combination of warmhearted encouragement and the skill acquired through years of guiding to find success for his clients. He had a profound generosity of spirit that manifested in an easy smile and lively eyes.

He loved his family and enjoyed talking about them as much as fishing. He’s survived by his wife, Flora; sons Victor, Andres, and Jesiel; daughters Lizbeth and Yamily; and grandchildren Josmar, Cindy, Melanie,

16 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

“The GoFundMe was a success

replied. “It’s always good to try.”

because Victor had so many friends,” said Rob Mukai, an American hotel

Our last day together in a boat was

owner who called Castro his closest

special because we caught a per-

friend in Xcalak. “He made a huge

mit, but it has become even more

impact on a lot of people.”

meaningful since Castro’s death. A friend and I were supposed to go out

Castro’s son, Andres Isai Castro Arre-

with Castro’s nephew Felipe Miravete

ola, will carry on his father’s legacy

that day, but a scheduling conflict

with Osprey Tours.

meant the jefe himself would guide us. Any time you catch a permit is

“It’s very strange and he will be

a great day, but catching it with my

missed,” he said. “But we will contin-

old friend took it to another level. I

ue on because my father was a great

expect to catch more permit, but I’ll

man.”

never again sit in the panga with my friend and talk about it. I feel cheat-

The first time I fished with Castro,

ed, although I take comfort in the

in 2007, he returned my tip because

memory of sitting there with him,

he thought it was too much com-

eating a sandwich and sipping a Dos

pensation for the number of fish we

Equis, talking about his life on the

saw. He went inside his home and

water, and about living his dream in a

returned with a plate full of his wife

tropical paradise with his family.

Flora’s homemade banana-leaf chicken tamales. It sparked a friendship

“It’s been a good life,” he said.

that carried on despite infrequent face-to-face meetings. During the last few months of Castro’s life, we communicated often about the state of the pandemic.

I’d call it great.

ALASKA Mossy’s Fly Shop 750 W. Diamond Blvd, Suite 114 Anchorage, AK 99515 907-770-2666 mossysflyshop.com CALIFORNIA Bob Marriott’s Fly Fishing Store 2700 W. Orangethorpe Ave Fullerton, CA 92833 714-525-1827 bobmarriottsflyfishingstore. com COLORADO Front Range Anglers 2344 Pearl Street Boulder, CO 80302 303-494-1375 frontrangeanglers.com

ORVIS Sandestin 625 Grand Boulevard Ste 101 Sandestin, FL 32550 850-650-2174 Orvis.com The Angling Company 333 Simonton St Key West, FL 33040 305-292-6306 anglingcompany.com GEORGIA Cohutta Fishing Company 39 S. Public Square Cartersville, GA 30120 770-606-1100 cohuttafishingco.com

NORTH CAROLINA Madison River Fly Fishing Outfitters 20910 Torrence Chapel Rd D5 Cornelius, NC 28031 704-896-3660 carolinaflyfishing.com OBX on the Fly 107 Sir Walter Raleigh St Manteo, NC 27954 obxonthefly.com RHODE ISLAND The Saltwater Edge 1037 Aquidneck Ave Middletown, RI 02842 866-793-6733 saltwateredge.com

CONNECTICUT

ORVIS Atlanta Buckhead Square 3255 Peachtree Rd NE Atlanta, GA 30305 404-841-0093 Orvis.com

The Compleat Angler 541 Boston Post Road Darien, CT 06820 203-655-9400 compleatangleronline.com

The Fish Hawk 764 Miami Cir NE #126 Atlanta, GA 30305 404-237-3473 thefishhawk.com

FLORIDA

LOUISIANA

ORVIS Charleston 535 King St, Charleston, SC 29403 (854) 999-4985 Orvis.com

239 Flies 3431 Bonita Beach Rd SW Unit #205 Bonita Springs, FL 34134 (239) 908-3513 239flies.com

Marsh & Bayou Outfitters 2600 Florida St Suite 3 Mandeville, LA 70448 985-869-7335 marshandbayououtfitters.com

Southern Drawl Outfitters 1533 Fording Island Rd Hilton Head Island, SC 29926 843-705-6010 southerndrawloutfitters.com

ORVIS Baton Rouge Perkins Rowe, Bldg. H 7601 Bluebonnet Blvd., Ste. 140 Baton Rouge LA 70810 225-757-7286 Orvis.com

TEXAS

Forgotten Coast Fly Company 123 Commerce Street Apalachicola, FL 32320 850-653-1024 forgottencoastflycompany. com Florida Keys Outfitters 81219 Overseas Highway Islamorada, FL 33036 305-664-5432 floridakeysoutfitters.com Mangrove Outfitters 4111 Tamiami Trail E Naples, FL 34112 239-793-3370 mangroveoutfitters.com Ole Florida Fly Shop 6353 N. Federal Hwy Boca Raton, FL 33487 561-995-1929 olefloridaflyshop.com Orlando Outfitters 2814 Corrine Dr Orlando, FL 32803 407-896-8220 orlandooutfitters.com ORVIS Ocean Reef 1 Fishing Village Drive Key Largo FL 33037 305-367-2227 Orvis.com

MARYLAND Alltackle 2062 Somerville Rd Annapolis, MD 21401 888-810-7283 alltackle.com MASSACHUSETTS The Bear’s Den 34 Robert W. Boyden Rd Taunton, MA 02780 508-977-0700 bearsden.com MONTANA Frontier Anglers 680 N. Montana St Dillion, MT 59725 406-683-5276 frontieranglers.com

SOUTH CAROLINA Bay Street Outfitters 825 Bay Street Beaufort, SC 29902 843-524-5250 baystreetoutfitters.com

Bayou City Angler 3641 Westheimer Rd Suite A Houston, TX 77027 832-831-3104 bayoucityangler.com

Sportsman’s Finest 12434 Bee Cave Road Austin, TX 78738 512-263-1888 sportsmansfinest.com Swan Point Landing 1723 Cherry Street Suite 4 Rockport, TX 78382 361-729-7926 swanpointlandingflyshop.net Tailwaters Fly Fishing Co. 1933 E. Levee St Dallas, TX 75207 888-824-5420 tailwatersflyfishing.com UTAH Fishwest 47 West 10600 South Sandy, UT 84070 fishwest.com 801-617-1225 WASHINGTON Peninsula Outfitters 19740 7th Ave NE, Suite 110 Poulsbo, WA 98370 360-394-1599 peninsulaoutfitters.com The Avid Angler 17171 Bothell Way NE #A272 Lake Forest Park, WA 98155 206-362-4030 avidangler.com WYOMING Lander Fly Shop 305 Main Street Lander, WY 82520 307-438-3439 landerflyshop.com Retail Chains:

Gordy & Sons Outfitters 22 Waugh Drive Houston, TX 77007 713-333-3474 gordyandsons.com

Barnes & Noble—630 retail locations in the USA

ORVIS Austin 10000 Research Blvd - B04B Austin TX 78759 512-795-8004 Orvis.com

Bass Pro Shops—95 locations in the USA

ORVIS Houston 5727 Westheimer - Suite A Houston TX 77057 713-783-2111 Orvis.com

NEW YORK

ORVIS Plano Preston Towne Crossing 2412 Preston Road Suite 200 Plano, TX 75093 972-596-7529 Orvis.com

River Bay Outfitters 980 Church St Baldwin, NY 11510 516-415-7748 riverbayoutfitters.com

ORVIS San Antonio 7427 San Pedro Ave. Suite 104 San Antonio, TX 78216 210-812-3017 Orvis.com

R E T A I L E R S

Books-A-Million—260 stores in 32 states

C A R R Y T A I L

Dick’s Sporting Goods (select locations)—over 700 stores in the USA Field & Stream Stores—35 locations in the USA CANADA Drift Outfitters & Fly Shop 199 Queen St. East Toronto Ontario M5A-1S2 647-347-7370 Driftoutfitters.com Retail Chains: Indigo Books—over 200 stores under various banners

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 17

inside

Tube Flies box for Billfish the

by Arthur J. Lux

As someone who has tied dozens of flies for bluewater

In lieu of attaching the hook with a loop you can also

outings, I’ve come to the realization that it’s a fool’s errand.

use a small metal clip, which you can get at your local

The reality is that you may only use four to six flies a day,

hardware store. The clip should be able to withstand a

but to have six appropriate flies, you need to have 40 ready

few hundred pounds of pressure. Don’t overdo it, though,

to go in various sizes. Typical billfish patterns are tied on

as a clip that’s too heavy will hinder your cast. If you use

hooks from 2/0 to 10/0, and it requires a great deal of time

the clip, simply loop both the knot at the hook and the

to stockpile enough so that you’ll feel prepared for the trip.

other end that will clip to the leader.

This can take several weeks.

Frequently, an angler fishing for mahi might encounter a

I do still tie standard flies for billfish, but in order to

marlin. This is where having an interchangeable system

save time and money I’ve streamlined the process. Tube

of tube flies really pays off. The mahi fly you’re using

flies are a great way to ensure that you have both the

might be fine for billfish, but the hook might be too

pattern and the hook size needed. Tying on tubes allows

small. This systems allows you to up the size of your

you to change the hook quickly. You no longer need to tie

hook in seconds.

a sardine pattern on different size hooks; simply tie it on a tube and when you’re on the boat you can select the

This is a typical selection of tube files for blue water.

desired hook based on the situation you’re in.

Pink and white seems to be a popular color combination

I like to use a shock tippet of 40 to 60 pounds that’s

purpose, simply trim the tail.

attached to the hook with a loop knot. To rig, simply slide the tippet though the tail end of the fly and snug the hook eye just inside the back end of the tube. Secure the shock tippet to your leader with a blood knot and you’re ready to go.

18 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

for sailfish. If you desire a smaller fly for a specific

Many bluewater patterns are now commercially available.

In fact, I purchased this assortment on eBay because my flies just weren’t pretty enough for the shoot.

Go fish!

A recluse and infrequent contributor to TFFM, Arthur J. Lux cut his teeth on conventional fishing and bluewater tournaments—but he did eventually see the light.

He is now a fly-only bluewater angler. He roams the world eating, drinking, and fishing— not necessarily in that order.

He can tie our flies anytime.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 19

GEAR Scientific Anglers Rod Sleeves There are few things more valuable to the fly angler than his or her gear. SA rod sleeves protect fly rods while they’re nestled in a hard rod rack on a skiff or while riding in a rusty old pickup truck from the lodge to the marina. Four sizes to accommodate single-handed and two-handed rods. A great stocking stuffer. (scientificanglers.com) $12.95 to $29.95

Fishpond Cutbank Gear Bag A gear sanctuary for salt or fresh water, the Fishpond Cutbank gear bag keeps your important gear protected and dry. Adjustable internal dividers allow you to customize your boat bag based on what gear you are carrying each day. Multiple clear, waterproof zip pouches protect phones, keys, or other small items and allow for easy access. Sturdy walls protect gear and provide structure so the bag stands on its own. Plenty of room for larger items such as cameras, reels, fly boxes, and rain jacket. (fishpondusa.com) $249.95

20 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

GUIDE Thomas & Thomas Exocett SS The T&T Exocett SS is an 8’ 8” rod that excels at handling sinking lines or compact floating shooting heads. The four-piece multi-modulus blank dampens the shock associated with heavy lines and the powerful tip helps pull sinking lines to the surface to recast. Blank is a matte black finish and the grip is made from Flor-grade cork reinforced with highdensity rubberized composite. Hardware includes titanium frame guides with ceramic inserts and RECoil titanium alloy snake guides. If you fish sinking lines—and most saltwater fly anglers do—this is your rod. (thomasandthomas.com) $855

Nite Ize Hitch Phone Anchor + Tether Imagine you’re on the bow of the skiff. You’ve just caught a beautiful bonefish, and you’re straining to get the perfect angle for a photo when you lose your grip on your phone and watch it plop into the salt.

(Ask us how we know about this scenario.) The Nite Ize Hitch Phone Anchor + Tether will save the day the next time fish slime or salt water loosens your grip. Its simple design fits any phone with a case and protects your phone from drops, loss, or theft. Peace of mind on the water for a very small price. (niteize.com) $15

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 21

GEAR Pelican 20QT Elite Cooler The Pelican 20QT Elite Cooler has served us well not only as a cooler, but also as a boat seat, a camping stool, and a chopping/prep surface area, to name just a few functions. It’s just the right size for a day trip or overnighter, and it’s easy to carry and access.

Bombproof latches open with a simple push and give you tactile confirmation that they’re closed. Multiple color options and a lifetime guarantee make it hard to beat for a piece of gear you’ll be proud to pass on to your kids. (pelican.com) $149.95

Hydroflask 32 oz Wide Mouth Bottle The Hydroflask 32 oz Wide Mouth Bottle is the ultimate hydration companion on all days—not just hot ones. Double-wall vacuum insulation and prograde stainless steel construction means beverages stay ice-cold for 24 hours or piping-hot for 12. A wide opening means a fast fill. While stainless steel may be heavier than a standard reusable plastic bottle, temperature control, durability, and BPA-free materials are well worth the weight. (hydroflask.com) $44.95

22 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

GUIDE Rumpl Stash Mat Part of the attraction of fishing is the downtime between fish—those times when you anchor up, crack a beer, and kick your feet up. For moments like these, Rumpl’s new packable Stash Mat is perfect. It’s lightweight and packs into itself at 6 x 12 inches, so it doesn’t take up much storage space. Throw it across the bow for a comfortable place to sit. And if you beach the boat, you can stake down the mat thanks to reinforced tabs on each corner. At 52 x 75 inches, it fits four people comfortably. A waterproof bottom alows you to lay this thing anywhere. However, what we like most is that it stands up to anything: sand, water, spilled beer, a dripping sandwich. Just brush it off, fold it back up, and toss it into the hatch. (rumpl.com) $79

Asobu Ultimate Mug If you’re like us, life, fishing, and coffee go hand-in-hand. As the weather cools, it’s nice having a mug that keeps your drink hot— whether at the tying bench, on the road, or in the boat. Most travel mugs are lined with metal, which alters the taste of your coffee. The Asobu Ultimate Mug is crafted with a stainless steel outer and copper inner lined with ceramic, which translates to long-lasting heat with no off-flavor. (asobubottle.com) $24.99

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 23

GEAR Primal Urge Meat Snacks Are you a carnivore, or do you know anyone who is? If so, you’ll truly enjoy Primal Urge Meats. Each month, this service will deliver a box of meaty snacks to your door, each assortment picked from a variety of hundreds of different products, including unique flavors of jerky, sticks, and strips. The list of options is growing all the time.

All MSG-free and from small farmers here in the USA who care about what you’re eating. (primalurgefoods.com) $14.95/month

Mangrove Outfitters At-Home Fly Tying Kit How many times have you seen a great-looking fly but didn’t know what materials were needed or how to tie it? Mangrove Outfitters has you covered. We learned about Mangrove Outfitters Fly Shop fly tying kits and ordered one for ourselves. We received the box with Tom’s Lightbulb, one of three patterns available. This is a white baitfish pattern that’s used globally in both salt water and fresh and looks great in both clear and tannic water.

Each kit contains enough materials to tie a dozen flies. The kit includes a pre-tied pattern for you to use as a model. A detailed how-to video on the Mangrove Outfitters YouTube channel walks you step by step through tying the pattern.

Also included is a nice koozie and a custom sticker. After being in business for almost 30 years, Mangrove Outfitters knows their stuff. Great gift or stocking-stuffer. (mangroveoutfitters.com) $39.95 24 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

GUIDE Duck Camp Drifter Pants Duck Camp’s new Drifter Pants are the fishing pants by which all other fishing pants should be judged.

They do everything you would expect of a quality pair of fishing pants—they’re lightweight, quick drying, UPF 40+ rated, breathable, moisture wicking, and stain resistant. But just as important, they’re also damn comfortable thanks to articulated knees, a gusseted crotch, and a comfort fit waistband. Whether you’re throwing them on for a day on the bow of a skiff or layering them under waders these will become your go-to pants for all things fishing. (duckcamp.com) $89

Toadfish Non-Tipping Can Cooler Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best. If you’ve never spilled a drink on a boat, then you probably haven’t spent much time on one. The Toadfish Non-Tipping Can Cooler is the protector of beverages everywhere. End alcohol abuse—that is, spilling drinks— by using this handy item on your next nautical voyage. The bottom sticks to any smooth surface and only unsticks when you pull straight up. The beverage cannot be knocked over. In three different sizes to fit 12 oz regular, 12 oz slim, and 16 oz tall cans. A great stocking stuffer for any angler. (toadfishoutfitters.com) $24

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 25

GEAR Gillz Polarized Sunglasses Quality polarized sunglasses are one item whose purchase can break your bank. Gillz offers an entire collection for under $100.

Seven frame and six lens options provide stunningly clear vision and maximum glare reduction whether you’re fishing offshore, flats, lake, or stream. (gillz-gear.com) $99.99

Baker HXSS Stainless Steel X-Heavy Duty HooKouT There’s a reason they’re called snappers. Nothing can ruin a day of fishing quicker than getting your fingers bloodied by a toothy bluefish. A great tool for hard-to-release fish is the Baker Hookout HXSS. It securely holds a wide range of hook sizes, and corrosionresistant stainless steel is ideal for salt water. Large hand grips for easy operation and superior control. $34.99

26 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

GUIDE Scientific Anglers Amplitude Smooth Redfish Line Catching a tailing red is the bomb! Just make sure you have the right fly line for the job. The Sci Anglers Amplitude series of lines are the highest-performance lines the company has ever produced. The Amplitude Smooth Redfish Line is designed with a short head for quick shots. Comes in both a Warm and Cold version to suit your fishery. (scientificanglers.com) $99.95

Korkers Darkhorse Wading Boots A good pair of wading boots are essential for the coastal fly angler who plays the game on foot. You’ll find no better wading boots than the Korkers Darkhorse. These remastered classics offer superlative fit and function, internal drainage to reduce weight, fast and effortless putting on and taking off, and they’re ideal for both fresh and salt water. Two sole packages offer options for all wading conditions, including Felt Sole (ideal for slippery environments), Kling-On Sticky Sole (boats and wet wading), and Studded Kling-On Sole (for extremely slippery environments).

Soles can be changed in less than a minute. (korkers.com). $189.99

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 27

A Photo Essay by Andrea Izzotti Words by Joseph Ballarini The streets of Cabo San Lucas are closed every October 18th for a parade to honor the city’s patron saint, Saint Joseph. I sometimes talk about Saint Joseph’s feast day parade as the reason I started visiting Los Cabos, since we share the name, but those who know me best know full well it was the marlin.

The best time to experience a bait ball and frenzied billfish on the fly is late October though late November, as long as favorable conditions prevail and the sardines do not move out too quickly.

The speed of a striped marlin is often exaggerated, with reports exceeding 50 miles per hour. While marlin are capable of impressive bursts of speed,

28 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Los Cabos Has Balls

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 29

30 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

they top out at around 25 miles per hour. A typical striped marlin is between 150 and 250 pounds, but a 12- to 15-year-old fish can approach 450 pounds.

The sardine schools have only their great numbers as defense. To confuse predators, they form tight balls, relying on the probability that some will fall but enough will survive. Not only do the sardines have to endure assault from below, but they are also attacked by frigates from above.

Marlin are pack hunters; they systematically take turns charging the bait, bills slashing, in an attempt to disorient, injure, and isolate individual fish from the school.

Isolated prey last no more than a few seconds outside the protective cloud of the ball.

The most common marlin flies are white topped with green or blue; they can be tied as straight baitfish patterns or a popper head can be added

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 31

32 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

to create surface disturbance.

You simply toss them into the boil and strip them to suggest wounded or isolated prey.

During times of high activity, a few strips are all that is necessary.

The frenzy can last for minutes or hours, but it typically stops as quickly as it starts.

Even if it lasts only minutes, it’s truly a sight to see.

Andrea Izzotti is an awardwinning wildlife photographer based in Genova, Italy. He is the author of Tales from Blue and Other Colors (2020) and Travelers in the Blue (2020).

His work has appeared in National Geographic Italy, National Geographic Viajes, National Geographic Kids, Focus, Focus Wild, as well as other books and magazines.

You can visit his website at andreaizzotti.it.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 33

34 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 35

A Fish My Age

by Henry Hughes I listened to my younger friends as we

from Alaska to Baja California, and

glow, swimming inches behind the

drove through Oregon’s coastal range

they make up an important part

little rockfish, but sunlight and the

toward the ocean. Nate and Jarod are

of the recreational and commercial

lapping hull turned the beast away.

biologists for the US Fish & Wildlife

fishery. But few people cast to them

We released the small rockfish and

Service, Peter is a professor at a state

with flies.

looked for more. Nothing. Then

university. Strong wind predictions

One summer afternoon, Peter and I

a huge splash behind us had me

and the younger men’s concerns—

were riding ocean swells on his 16-

fumbling for the fly rod and shaking

federal and state budget cuts, hectic

foot skiff, Kelson, when the surface

out some line. Peter laughed. I turned

work schedules, kids home sick, and

began to boil with anchovies and

to see a pair of sleek porpoises arcing

frantic spouses—made me hope

the hearty splashes of pursuit. Peter

through the water.

the trip would offer some relief. I

had his 8-weight Cabela’s rod at the

glanced back at the boat we trailered,

ready. He made a decent cast from

A surface flurry of rockfish happens

remembering past trips that buoyed

the pitching bow, stripped the sinking

only every once in a while on

our spirits during trying times.

line and pale streamer a couple of

the ocean. Black rockfish, olives,

feet, and hooked a nice fish—maybe

yellowtails, and widows will come to

For years we have enjoyed catching

4 pounds—that bent the rod, dove

the surface, but typically the fish

rockfish along the West Coast,

deep under the boat, and eventually

are too deep to reach with flies. For

dropping jigs into craggy lairs and

came to my net. I freed the fly, and

small boat and shore anglers like

kelpy crevices, or down through

Peter sent out a second cast that

us, however, stories of night fishing

sonar-exposed schools below our

immediately hooked another fish.

held special promise. Beginning in

boats. Members of the genus

This rockfish, much smaller, also shot

the 1970s, Oregon fly fishing maven

Sebastes, which means “magnificent”

straight for the bottom, attracting

Richard Bunse donned his miner’s

in Greek (and sometimes called “bass”

a large, fanged ling cod that trailed

helmet, a cord running down to the

by locals), the more than 75 species

it to the surface. We thrilled over

battery pack on his belt, and climbed

of Pacific rockfishes inhabit waters

the 3-foot predator’s greenish

over jetty rocks, casting streamers to

36 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

eager rockfish. “The action at night

rocks seem suddenly close, water and

Oregon coast can live into their 50s,

was incredible,” Bunse said. “Nothing

land melt together.

and it takes them five years or more

like what you’d experience during the

before they spawn. Yellowtail rockfish

day.” Legends also told of very big

“Don’t worry. We’ll be careful,” I

can live to be 65 years; canary

rockfish coming out under the cover

texted my wife, adding a piscine

rockfish, 85; quillback, 95. The ear

of darkness. Many species of fish are

emoticon, as the possibility of large,

bones of a 32-inch rougheye rockfish

nocturnal, hunting by glimpse, scent,

feeding fish inside the bay took

caught off Alaska showed it to be 205

and vibration. Normally wary brown

over our conversation in the truck.

years old. Although tarpon may live

trout boldly prowl the darkened

“I’d love to land a big one,” I blurted

to be 60, redfish 40, and striped bass

shallows of rivers and lakes, snook

aloud. Jarod smiled, but reminded us

30, bonefish and permit rarely exceed

gobble shrimp and smelt among the

that rockfish are slow-growing, long-

20, and false albacore live no longer

moon-dappled tropical mangroves,

lived creatures, often taking several

than five years. Rockfishes, along

and striped bass and bluefish gorge

years to sexually mature. This life

with the Greenland shark, Patagonian

on menhaden during warm nights

cycle makes rockfish vulnerable to

toothfish, and white sturgeon, are

along the Atlantic coast. Why don’t

overfishing.

some of the oldest-living fish in the

more fly anglers follow?

world.

According to Dr. Milton Love of

Night fishing can be challenging,

the Marine Science Institute at

“If we catch a big rockfish,” Jarod

even dangerous. Humans are

the University of California, Santa

proposed, “how about we let it go?”

creatures of light, and the older I get,

Barbara, several studies have shown

Jarod, a conservationist at heart,

the more illumination I need to tie

an alarming decline in the number

caught and released a 3-pound

knots, untangle leaders, and find my

of older fish, whose offspring are

quillback on a previous trip, and the

way over the water. Whether wading

more likely to survive than those of

fish was on his mind. But angling

or navigating a boat, distance to

younger fish. According to Dr. Love,

lore warns against presumptuous

objects appears distorted at night,

the black rockfish common off the

planning, and this discussion felt

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 37

Peter’s 25-year-old Kelson, but her

because he was into a fish; so was I.

heavy, wide-beamed fiberglass hull

The bite was on.

is steady, even in a wind-whipped

DR. LOVE EXPLAINS THAT “DAY-NIGHT BEHAVIOR OF ROCKFISH REMAINS LARGELY UNSTUDIED,” BUT “IN DEEP WATER THE FISH ARE USUALLY VERY QUIET AT NIGHT.” THESE SHALLOW-WATER FISH WERE CLEARLY AWAKE.

February bay like the one we crossed

All of us were catching rockfish and

in the last hour of light. Hundreds of

an occasional greenling on flies. Most

black surf scoter hugged the lee of

fish were in the 11-inch range, but a

a seawall, loons surfaced with small

few larger fish up to 15 inches also

silver herring in their bills, and sea

came aboard. Peter changed to a

lions barked from a tilting green

smaller black Clouser and caught

channel marker.

three fish in as many casts, including a gold-faced quillback with deeply

Approaching a barnacled point on the

notched dorsal spines. Rockfishing

jetty, Nate readied the anchor, but a

is often excellent at high slack tide,

Coast Guard patrol drove down the

and darkness made it even better. As

road and waved us off. “Restricted

the tide turned and our boat swung

bar,” the officer shouted through

on the falling water, Jarod hooked a

a bullhorn, and we retreated down

large fish that bent his rod and ran

channel and anchored off another

for cover. “Damn,” he shook his head

stony knuckle that looked promising.

when the pulsing stopped. We were

It’s impossible for four men to cast

tempted to leave anchor and try to

a bit like a jinx, like sliding a big

flies from a small boat, so we took

free the snagged fish, but the tippet

ice-filled cooler in the truck before

turns at bow and stern, the chilly

broke. Soothing the loss of that big

a salmon trip, or snapping the

wind working for and against us as

something, we savored the nearly

net in place before the first cast.

it blew hard off the ocean. After 30

windless winter night. Fish splashed

Then I remembered the Elizabeth

minutes fishing the incoming tide,

all around us; and sea lions swam

Bishop poem about catching a

a red-freckled greenling gobbled up

nearby, their vapored breath rising

“tremendous fish” that didn’t

Nate’s scud. Then Jarod hooked a

in puffs of fog visible before the

fight hard, but was “battered and

10-inch copper rockfish, brilliantly

harbor lights. Nate shined a powerful

venerable” with hooks and broken

patched in pink and orange. We put

spotlight into the water, igniting the

leaders trailing from his mouth

on our headlamps and kept at it,

tinsel sides of herring dashing past.

“like medals with their ribbons.”

casting to the exposed rocks and

We all took turns, catching close to

The poem was written in 1946,

retrieving through water ranging

60 fish, toasting the bounty with

long before catch-and-release was

from 4 to 20 feet. Fishing was slow,

a round of whisky and tender beef

accepted practice, and yet staring

but as darkness fell, so did the wind.

jerky. Dr. Love explains that “Day-

at that big old fish hanging half out

The tide slowed, flooding close to

night behavior of rockfish remains

of the water, Bishop tells us—

high, and Peter caught a small black

largely unstudied,” but “in deep

rockfish on a Lefty’s Deceiver. Peter

water the fish are usually very quiet

… victory filled-up

is from the East Coast and he loves

at night.” These shallow-water fish

the little rented boat

his Deceivers along with his old

were clearly awake. Peter inspected

from the pool of bilge

electric blue fly line with 30 feet of

the well-chewed Clouser under his

where oil had spread a rainbow

black 450-grain sinking head that has

headlamp—broken deer hair over the

around the rusted engine . . .

put him into countless striped bass

paint-chipped red eyes. “I’ve got some

—until everything

from Maine to New Jersey. The line,

other steamers,” I offered.

was rainbow, rainbow, rainbow!

kinked and worn, made it to Oregon

“I’ll stick with this,” he said. “It’s

And I let the fish go.

for a few more years of service, and

working.”

when I tell him it needs replacing, he There’s always a bit of murky bilge

says, “I love it, and know just how it

The Clouser Deep Minnow was

water below the low transom of

sinks and responds.” I couldn’t argue

created in the late 1980s by Bob

38 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 39

cast, Peter raised the rod, felt the resistance of something—a snag?— then stripped and set the hook into a large fish. “This is something, guys,” he smiled. The rod bowed deeply and pulsed; and though there was no great run, there was clearly a big fish pulling toward the rocks. Peter got the fish on the reel, applying considerable low angle pressure to keep it in open water.

Anglers know the thrill of a big fish at the end of the line. Sometimes we’re fairly certain what it will be, but in salt water the mystery expands with every powerful pull and dive. After ten minutes, Peter had his big fish close to the boat. Nate provided a spotlight, Jarod held the net, and I readied for a photo. Suddenly there was the golden flash of a huge copper rockfish. Jarod lifted the net and the fish glistened in a marble swirl of brown, olive, and metallic yellow, a white streak running behind the gill plate and pectoral fins, its spiny dorsal high and fierce.

Rockfish carry a mild venom in their dorsal spines, and Peter was once so painfully stung that I had to administer a first aid treatment Clouser, a Pennsylvania angler and fly

movement of this fly dipping and

shop owner who sought a streamer

darting when you strip it erratically.”

for his beloved Susquehanna

Peter resumed casting his Clouser

smallmouth. The late Lefty Kreh

from the bow, but rather than

celebrated the Clouser in several

stripping erratically, he simply kept

articles and claimed to have used it

tension, letting the outgoing tide

to land over 80 species of fish. The

carry the now-distressed streamer

lead dumbbell eyes allow the fly to

slowly over the bottom. “They’re

drop quickly and ride hook-point-up,

taking it when it’s hardly moving,”

making it less snaggy. It may appear

he lifted another small fish out

to be the fly angler’s version of the

of the water. Young rockfish feed

bucktail jig, but it was designed

voraciously on bottom-dwelling

to swim in jerking horizontals. As

mysids, small crabs, and amphipods,

Clouser himself describes, “The

as well as free-swimming krill and

flat and narrow profile add to the

other plankton. After his next

40 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

of ice and rum. He carefully lifted this night’s fish with his Boga Grip scale—7 pounds even—approximately 22 inches. I took photos. We sounded off astonishment and praise. Victory filled up our little boat—and we let the fish go.

“I bet that was a world record,” Nate said.

“On the fly rod?” I qualified. “I bet you’re right.”

Consulting the International Game Fish Association website, we learned

THERE IS NO IGFA ENTRY FOR A COPPER ROCKFISH CAUGHT ON A FLY ROD IN ANY TIPPET CLASS. PETER CAUGHT A WORLD RECORD.

that the official all-tackle record for

photos and witnesses, but the record

a copper rockfish is 7 pounds, 15

remains in our memory and in the

ounces, 22 inches, caught by Daniel

living leviathan that may be finning

Stamos, jigging a Diamond Bar in

this very moment in his keply cave.

Shelter Cove, Humboldt County,

“Once an adult finds a good reef, they

California. Two state records (which

don’t move around much,” Dr. Love

do not supersede official IGFA

told me during a phone interview. I

records) for this species were set in

sent the renowned ichthyologist a

the late 1980s: California, 8 pounds,

description and photo of our fish,

3 ounces; Washington, 10 pounds.

and asked him to estimate the age.

There is no IGFA entry for a copper

“That fish is just a little short of the

rockfish caught on a fly rod in any

maximum length, and because the

tippet class. Peter caught a world

maximum age thus far determined is

record.

54 years old, the fish is likely in that range.”

I contacted the IGFA and inquired about an application, but it became

I paused for a moment and said, “Like

apparent that we wouldn’t qualify.

maybe, 52, my age.”

The IGFA encourages catch-andrelease, but we did not get a weight from a certified scale, and we took no exact measurements. There are

“Sure,” Dr. Love said. “Very possible.”

Henry Hughes grew up on Long Island, New York, and now lives in Oregon. He is the Oregon Book Award-winning author of four collections of poetry and the memoir Back Seat with Fish: A Man’s Adventures in Angling and Romance (Skyhorse Publishing, 2016). An active angler, naturalist, and literary critic, Henry edited the Everyman’s Library anthologies Art of Angling: Poems about Fishing and Fishing Stories. His work has appeared in Harvard Review, Antioch Review, Gray’s Sporting Journal, Anglers Journal, and Flyfishing and Tying Journal. Henry teaches at Western Oregon University.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 41

REWA REFLECTIONS Arapaima in a Lost World Having just finished wiping the sleep

immigrations officer asked. Though

“What’s the address?” he shot back.

out of my eyes, my brain was now

he was speaking English, the cadence

It was 1:12 a.m. local time at Cheddi

trying to play catchup to process

bore a heavy Creole accent, making it

Jaggan International Airport and I

what the man behind the glass was

harder to understand.

was already having to think harder

asking. “Say again?” I blurted as I

than I wanted to.

was becoming more awake and in

“Rewa Eco-Lodge—I’m here to go

tune with each passing second.

fishing in the jungle for the week,” I

“Well, uh, I don’t think it has an

replied.

address … it’s just, like, a village and

“Where are you going?” the

42 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

some huts in the jungle.” That was

by Kyle Gemas Photos by Johann du Preez and Kurt Schiele

my official answer and I stuck to it.

fishing with for the week—grabbed

confident saying that there were

The man looked at me for a second or

our luggage and walked outside to

two hard truths about Guyana: the

two and then stamped my passport

meet our local ground agent and

roadside dog food industry was

and waived me through. I was

driver, who had an air-conditioned

booming and Banks beer wasn’t bad

officially in Guyana. I felt even better

van with a cooler full of Banks beer

for $1.50. Most people tend to recall

when I discovered my checked bags

ready for our 50-minute drive to the

another hard truth: This remote

containing all my gear had made

largest city and capital, Georgetown.

South American country is best

the journey successfully. We—that is, I and two of the three guys I’d be

known for being the home of Jim About halfway to Georgetown I felt

Jones and his Peoples Temple Cult,

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 43

which resulted in a mass suicide

little sleep I could and test how cold

glance, I wasn’t exactly sure how

of 909 people back in 1978. While I

the air conditioning unit could make

this plane would carry all of us and

was not going to be drinking any of

my room, knowing that there would

our gear across hundreds of miles

that Kool-Aid, for the many months

be no Freon particles floating around

of uninhabited jungle, but I’ve

leading up to this trip I had been

the jungle.

found that the best approach to an

drinking the Kool-Aid about Guyana

uncomfortable situation is to just

being one of the only places left in

In the lobby the next morning, I met

the world to catch a wild arapaima

my newfound friends from the night

on a fly rod. A little after 2:00 a.m.

before, Kurt and Erich, along with

We each had to step onto a large

we pulled into the Cara Lodge, which

their friend Dean. They had been

industrial scale to weigh ourselves

is arguably the nicest hotel in town.

friends for many years and were all

and our gear, a standard safety

While this really isn’t saying much, it

in their mid- to late-50s; having just

precaution when flying in very small

exceeded my expectations. The hotel

turned 30, I thought it my duty to try

planes, yet a strange procedure if

has hosted a variety of business

and impart some millennial wisdom

you’re used to just hopping on a

leaders and foreign dignitaries,

on these boomers while trying to be

commercial jetliner. I watched as

including President Jimmy Carter,

the best fourth wheel possible for the

the woman at the counter started

and now myself, representing the

week.

adding up our individual body and

lower end of the visitor spectrum.

assume it will all work out.

gear weight with pen and paper

Our 7:30 a.m. transfer to Ogle Interior

Ogle Airport was a fascinating

as opposed to a calculator. When

Airport would be here very soon, and

sight to see, consisting mainly of

her brow furrowed somewhat, I got

I decided it best to try to grab what

private chartered flights. At first

nervous for a second and began to

44 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

think our group was too heavy, but

has at least 85 percent of its natural

25-horsepower motors and began

luckily it never came to anything

rainforests alive and well. Besides

the hour-long journey upriver to

and we were cleared for departure.

gorgeous rainforest canopies, you

their lodge and village. Once we were

We loaded up, crammed our bodies

could also see lush mountains and

cruising on the river, the biodiversity

and gear into the plane, and were

even some grassy savannas. It’s easy

of the place was on full display: The

airborne.

to see why 16th century explorers

skies were filled with exotic, beautiful

like Charles Waterton came here

birds; caiman and giant river otters

Guyana lies east of Venezuela, north

looking for the mythical city of gold,

dotted the banks; howler monkeys

of Brazil, west of Suriname, and is

El Dorado. It wouldn’t surprise me if

roared from the trees; and at one

roughly half the size of New York

El Dorado was down there somewhere

point I was convinced that a T-Rex

State. Unlike New York, however,

below the canopy, but I was after my

Guyana’s total population is only

own El Dorado.

about 750,000, and just about none of them lived where we were going.

We landed on a jungle airstrip near

It’s the only country in South America

the village of Apoteri. After high-

where English is the official language,

fiving some of the local children who

as it was a British colony until 1970,

ran out onto the airstrip to greet

when it became an independent

us, we made our way down to the

republic. From the air it was easy

adjacent river, where we were met

to see why Guyana is so special; the

by representatives from the Rewa

natural resources and landscapes

Eco-Lodge (rewaecolodge.com), all of

are absolutely pristine and still very

whom were Amerindians, specifically

much intact. Guyana is one of only

the Makushi tribe. We loaded up two

two countries in the world that still

large aluminum boats fitted with

THE FISHING PROGRAM AT REWA IS BUILT AROUND FLY FISHING FOR ARAPAIMA, THE LARGEST FRESHWATER FISH ON THE PLANET.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 45

would eventually appear. While John Hammond ultimately did not welcome me to Jurassic Park, Rovin Alvin did welcome me to Rewa EcoLodge. Rovin is the village chief’s son and head guide of the fishing program. Besides fishing, the lodge also attracts birders and naturalists looking to revel in what feels like a lost world. The lodge was beautifully simple, and the Makushi do an excellent job of maximizing limited resources. The main lodge area featured six guest cabanas, a large dining hut and bar, an adjacent office where sparse wifi could be found, and solar panels keep the electric juices flowing. The guest cabanas featured a nice deck area with rod rack and hammock on the outside; inside there were two full beds draped in

46 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

mosquito netting. In the back there was an open air bathroom featuring a sink, flush toilet, and shower that pumped water straight from the river. After a nice lunch of baked chicken, it was time to rig up and try to find some arapaima.

The fishing program at Rewa is built around fly fishing for arapaima, one of the largest freshwater fish on the planet. They’re greenish and scaly with a beautiful red tail, and they remind me of a cross between a tarpon and a gar. They even have an air bladder and come to the surface to gulp air. The fish have a voracious appetite and grow very quickly, yet they live surprisingly short lives, topping out at around 15 years

maximum. This makes it even more impressive that they can reach 9 feet long and weigh well over 300 pounds.

It’s February, almost the peak of the dry season, and water levels are getting close to their lowest level, which is what you need to effectively fish arapaima. The Makushi have learned how the dropping water will trap the arapaima in large ponds and lakes, where they’ll remain until the water levels rise again and they’re free to relocate.

After a brisk half-mile hike through the jungle we reach our first pond, and there’s a canoe and guide waiting for us with a push pole that was made from a small tree not more

than 15 minutes earlier. The tactics

day. After a nice siesta and lunch, I

went tight and I set the hook so hard

are simple: The angler stands at

was off to fish an oxbow lake that

that I actually fell backward into the

the front of the canoe and is poled

the Makushi referred to as “banana

boat. Arapaima require an incredibly

flats-style by the guide. Because they

sucker.” While the name is open to

powerful strip strike to penetrate

gulp air, arapaima must come to

interpretation, the lake itself was

their bony mouths, and fishing

the surface, and even when they’re

indeed shaped like a banana. The

with 80-pound mono affords extra

below the surface they release air

mid-afternoon sun this particular day

confidence that the leader will not

bubbles. After a week of staring at

was blazing, and the fish seemed to

break. From my experience tarpon

pond water, anyone can become an

feel it, too, as I saw no rolling fish nor

fishing in Florida, I could tell by the

expert at locating and deciphering

any movement whatsoever. To try to

pull that this was a solid fish well

arapaima bubbles. We were loaded

stay mentally engaged, I began blind

over 100 pounds.

for bear: 12 weight rods, fly lines

casting at various spots I deemed

designed for giant trevally, 80-pound

fishy. My luck eventually turned when

After a short but powerful initial run,

straight mono leaders, and large

I spotted a nice burst of bubbles

the fish jumped out of the water like

bushy streamer flies. The fishing is

about 70 feet off the bow. I threw

a tarpon and shook its head violently,

more technical than one may think,

a black and red piranha streamer

attempting to break free.

and bagging one of these beasts a

a little ahead of the bubbles and

day is a good day.

paused for a few moments to let

“Really big fish!” yelled Rovin.

the fly sink. About halfway through My good day came on the second

my first long and slow strip, my line

My tarpon instincts kicked in, and I

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 47

ROVIN HANDED

began to apply maximum pressure,

As the fish began to tire, I was

ME A SHORT

utilizing Billy Pate’s “down and dirty”

instructed to try to pull it into

technique, while trying to keep the

shallower water, where the Makushi

fish’s head down and not let it come

guides would then jump into the

up to the surface to gulp air. My

water, land the fish, and begin to

12-weight Crosscurrent had pulled on

revive it. I gave the fish one more

some big fish before, but it seemed

hard pull and Rovin tackled it like an

MUST HAVE HAD A

to be bending in ways I had never

angry linebacker and it was all over.

seen, and I was determined to see

Every arapaima is measured and

PUZZLED LOOK ON

how much backbone it truly had.

tagged, and the information is put

Another ten minutes of pressure had

into a catch database by Makushi

MY FACE, BECAUSE

the fish to the point where Rovin

scientists. This particular specimen

felt confident to jump into the water

was 78 inches long and 36 inches

WITHOUT MISSING

and prepare to secure the behemoth.

wide and was estimated to weigh

A BEAT, ROVIN

Arapaima are incredibly strong, but

about 210 pounds. It had never been

they lack the stamina for a sustained

caught before. I braved the caiman,

fight if the angler successfully

electric eel, freshwater stingray,

applies pressure. The warm, poorly

and piranha for some cool pictures,

oxygenated water surely didn’t help

and then I watched the fish swim

the fish either.

back into the deep, murky waters of

AND SHARPENED BAMBOO STICK. I

REPLIED, “FOR JAGUARS.”

48 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

“banana sucker.” That fish was the

have had a puzzled look on my face,

washing clothing using canoes to

largest I’ve ever caught.

because without missing a beat,

hold the water, or fixing up the cots

Rovin replied, “For jaguars.”

under mosquito nets. Hard work is

“Now your week is all downhill from

prevalent here; it’s something that

here,” Rovin joked. As the week

Camping is a cool experience;

is clearly instilled into the younger

progressed, I ended up catching four

camping in the jungle is an awesome

generations. Watching the young

more arapaima, none anywhere near

experience! Every night we would fall

boys haul the canoes barefoot

as big as the first, but all special

asleep to a chorus of howler monkeys,

through the jungle is a sight; and

nonetheless.

frogs, and insects. This was a

those same boys are always there

borderline religious experience for me,

waiting for you to return after a

Mid-week we loaded up the boats

as I usually fall asleep to the sounds

fishing session. Whenever you came

and headed farther upriver to a pre-

of cars, sub-woofers, and bad sitcoms.

back with damp and muddy clothing

made campsite known as River Burst,

In the morning, some combination

their faces would light up knowing

which was even more rustic than

of sun, bacon, and howler monkeys

that their hard work enabled you to

the lodge. By the time we eventually

usually had me stirring and ready to

catch a fish. The boys already have a

hit the riverbank, an entire team of

go.

guide mentality and will no doubt be

Makushi had already been hard at

running the operation one day, just

work pumping river water for bathing

The Makushi women are terrific

as their older family members are

and setting up cots and mosquito

cooks and very hard workers;

currently doing. However, this wasn’t

nets. Rovin handed me a short and

when they weren’t cooking food,

always the case.

sharpened bamboo stick. I must

they were cleaning dishes, handMost Americans and Europeans have

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 49

never lived, experienced, or even

their most recent post, the villagers

harder to continue to say no to a

seen subsistence living. Quite the

of Rewa are living in harmony with

potential revenue stream.

opposite. As Westerners, we live such

their environment: They treat it

a consumptive and unsustainable

well and it treats them well. The

Searching for a way to both earn

lifestyle that we need the rest of

land is theirs as much in spirit as

money and keep their lands and

the world to live lesser lifestyles

it is physically, and it has been

lifestyle intact initially proved to be

because the planet would not be able

for untold years. The Guyanese

a daunting task for the villagers.

to sustain a global American way of

government understands this and

But one idea offered a glimmer of

life. By our materialistic standards,

has recognized their indigenous

hope: an eco-lodge. While this may

the villagers at Rewa have nothing;

rights to the land and has left the

seem obvious to most, the idea of

yet every villager I interacted with,

management of the lands to the

building a business through tourism

from children to elders, were some of

Makushi.

was not immediately understood

the happiest and friendliest people

or accepted by many. “It took some

I’ve met. Here, nobody has multiple

The extraction industries—oil,

time,” according to Rovin, “and that

cars, a vacation home, or a closet

mining, timber—all want a piece

first year we only had two guests.”

full of clothing with the price tags

of this pristine environment. The

A few years later, Costa Del Mar

still on; instead, they have much in

Makushi have been approached

helped launch the fishing program,

the form of culture, community, and

time and again by foreign-owned

as seen in their movie Jungle Fish.

spirit. Instead of worrying about how

companies offering money and jobs.

Today, the lodge attracts anglers and

many Instagram followers didn’t like

Over time, it became harder and

nature lovers from all corners of the

50 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

globe. What’s special about Rewa

reaps all of the financial benefit,

Eco-Lodge is that it is entirely owned

which empowers and motivates

Kyle Gemas has been an avid

by the Village of Rewa (and not

them to continue to preserve their

fly angler for seven years.

some foreign millionaire). Everyone

pristine lands and resources and not

Besides traveling the globe

in the village seems to play a role

feel the pressure to sell out to the

looking for remote fisheries,

in the day-to-day operations, and

extraction industries. It’s simple and

he also competes in numerous

they all share in the benefit of the

beautiful, much like the Makushi

bonefish and tarpon fly fishing

profits generated. According to Rovin:

way of life, and it’s a model that

tournaments in the Florida Keys.

“Instead of leaving to look for work in

is being duplicated in other places

Kyle lives in Dallas, Texas, with

Brazil, the boys now want to stay and

around the world. On the boat ride

his wife and dog. Check out his

be guides. The Lodge keeps everyone

back to the Apoteri landing strip,

Instagram (@kgemas65) for

working and busy and we all earn

I tried to reflect and process what

great fishing/travel pictures,

money from it.”

had been an incredible week in the

or drop him a line with any

jungle. The fishing was unbelievable,

questions. For more information

Perhaps Rewa is El Dorado. While

the environment almost primeval,

on Rewa Eco-Lodge, visit their

I didn’t see any actual gold, the

and the people and culture were

website (rewaecolodge.com).

conservation and business model

fantastic. I can’t wait to go back—I

that the villagers have championed

need to find that T-Rex.

is worth its weight in it. The village owns and operates the lodge and

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 51

THE

Sayonara

SLING

by Mark Sedotti Photos by Jim Levison and Anthony Loganzo

THE SAYONARA SLING IS A CAST I DEVELOPED IN 1996 AND IS THE CAST I USE TO ACHIEVE EXTREME DISTANCES. WHEN I WANT TO GET THAT 12-INCH BUNKER FLY OUT OVER 100 FEET, I USE IT. WHEN I NEED THAT SUPER-LONG SHOT TO MOVING FALSE ALBACORE OR TO SHY BLUEFIN TUNA THAT WON’T LET THE BOAT APPROACH WITHIN 120 FEET, I USE IT. AND FOR THAT LAST SHOT AT A TARPON GOING AWAY, OR ROLLING POONS IN THE DISTANCE, IT’S HEAVEN-SENT.

The Sayonara Sling, which presents

into the distance!) Let’s take a look

bottom of your forearm, right below

the fly on the back cast, gives you

at it.

the wrist. You might do this only on

two-handed distance with a singlehanded rod. Fly anglers have used back cast presentations for decades, and have cast far that way, too,

REEL TO THE SIDE—ROD BUTT INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE FOREARM

but nothing I’ve seen matches the

the presentation cast (false casting up to that point as you usually do).

You accomplish this by rotating your casting wrist in a counterclockwise direction (for a right-handed caster—

distance, power, or accuracy that can

As with the back cast presentation I

clockwise for lefties), until the reel is

be achieved with the Sayonara Sling.

wrote about in a previous article (see

pointed out to the side 90 degrees.

(I named it Sayonara because when

issue 44, November/December 2019),

It’s like turning a doorknob in the

you learn it well, you’ll be saying that

a key component of the Sayonara

opposite direction. This allows the rod

word as you watch your fly disappear

Sling is placing the rod butt into the

butt to be in position so that when

52 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

1) Use your entire body in the cast.

you load the rod, the pressure of the

can cast. You can bend the rod a lot

bent rod presses the butt into the

more this way. Placing the rod butt

bottom of your forearm. This gives

into the bottom of your forearm also

you more leverage (i.e., more support)

gives you more control over the cast,

to bend the rod even more than you

because your supporting muscles

can with a traditional forward cast.

aren’t “maxed out” in dealing with

You’re supported by all the muscles

the incredible resistance of a deeply

of the hand and forearm, compared

loaded rod. Using only your the

with just the meager amount of

thumb, they are.

spot more efficiently.

Keep in mind that the more you

Twisting the hand this way also

4) Extend backward more easily,

bend or load the rod, the farther you

allows you to:

muscles at the back of the thumb.

2) View the target, your presentation, and the fly line itself more easily.

3) Lead with the reel, so that you

have more distance to load the rod and can direct the cast to a precise

which loads the rods even more and ultimately adds to your distance.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 53

1.

USING THE BODY— WEIGHT SHIFT You use your entire body in this cast, starting with your feet, up through your legs, hips, torso, and back; then to your shoulders and arms and up to your rod hand. It’s a natural and fluid movement throughout.

Looking at the photos, you’ll see that at the beginning of my presentation cast my rod arm is extended straight forward (Figure 1). My body is leaned forward with my weight concentrated on my left foot. At this point the fly line is straight out in front of me.

2.

My body starts moving backward (Figure 2), and as it does the rod tip actually comes down a bit as I begin to pull on the straightened line. This begins the back cast presentation and creates a smooth transition from my final forward cast. At this point my rod arm remains straight.

My weight begins to shift backward; my body and rod arm are moving in the same direction (Figure 3). My rod hand is starting to climb as it continues to move backward, and I’m pulling on that straight fly line with the rod just starting to bend. This is a pulling motion and a pulling cast.

3.

You’re pulling with your body and arm for the entire load. Your moving body and shifting weight, along with the rod butt pulled into the bottom of your forearm, will help you deal with all of the resistance of the cast and any physical stress on your arm or shoulder created by the tremendous load on the rod. Everything works together.

The rod hand continues to climb while the rod is loading continuously

54 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

(Figure 4). The rod hand is moving along a straight line toward the

4.

target (which is a spot in the air above the actual target). Body weight continues to shift backward.

Both body and rod hand continue to accelerate smoothly.

The rod hand is well past my head now and is still climbing (Figure 5). My rod arm is beginning to straighten. The rod is at maximum bend; this is the end of the loading stage. Most of my weight has transferred to my right foot and is continuing to shift. You’ll complete the weight shift as the rod begins to unload (Figure 6).

MAXIMUM EXTENSION

5.

The unloading of the rod is performed with an extremely fast and short wrist arc. The casting arm is straight at the end of the unload (Figure 7).

The rod tip stops very abruptly and smoothly. There’s so much power that the rod tip arcs over as the rod unloads.

The straight arm at the end of the cast points to another key factor regarding the Sayonara Sling’s capacity for distance and power.

Bracing the rod butt against my forearm and straightening my arm at the end of the cast in effect gives me a longer rod by 18 or so inches.

6.

Rod tip speed at the end of the cast determines distance. The faster the tip is moving, the longer the cast. You can achieve faster tip speed easier with a longer rod. To visualize: If you swing a baseball bat, the end of the bat will be moving faster than the area at the center of the bat. It’s the same with a fly rod. The reason you can cast farther more easily

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 55

with a two-handed rod of 11- to 13-feet is because two hands give you more support to load the rod deeper, and

7.

the tip of the longer rod is moving faster. It’s as simple as that. With the Sayonara Sling, the rod butt pressed into the bottom of your forearm gives you more leverage to load the rod deeper, and the maximum extension of the straightened arm at the end of the cast gives you faster tip speed. When you consider that you load the rod using the momentum of your body’s weight shift, you’ll understand why you can cast so far. Note that I begin the presentation cast with the rod extending forward and my entire weight planted on my front foot, and I end the cast with the rod extending far to the rear and my weight planted on my back foot. This extension and complete weight shift causes the rod tip to travel a very long distance from start to finish. Someone at a show I attended measured this and determined that my rod tip tracked 28 feet!

8.

KEY POINTS IN REVIEW 1) Rod butt tucked against the underside of the forearm, just below the wrist—gives you more leverage to load the rod deeper.

2) Complete weight shift and body momentum to load

the rod. You pull the rod into a bend with your body. Once you get to the end of the loading stage you’ll have built up enough momentum that the remainder of the cast is effortless.

3) Straight arm at the finish—gives you more tip speed.

4) Maximum arm extension both forward and backward.

Rod tip tracks a long distance.

The Sayonara Sling is a cast you’ll have to develop. Review

9.

the article and go out and practice. When you do master it, it will give you much more facility on the water and you’ll be amazed at the distances you’ll achieve. You’ll make casts you never thought possible and will catch more, and larger, and more difficult fish as a result. It’s that special!

Mark Sedotti is renowned as both a distance fly caster and innovative fly tier. You can contact him regarding private instruction as well as clinics and classes at: msedotti@hotmail.com.

56 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

photo: Brian OʼKeefe

BE MORE SOCIAL

This

Tail Admin

tailflyfishing.com TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 57

58 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Text: Kelli Prescott Photos: James Jackson

The exotic has become the everyday.

Venison, elk, and other red meat wild game are now common fare at the table; many high-end meat markets carry these items year-round, and some of our favorite restaurants highlight these proteins on their menus. Though today it often receives the red carpet treatment like the finest cuts of beef, venison is a simple protein that doesn’t require much work.

Prepare lean, tender cuts of venison like your favorite steak: grilled over high heat, sliced, and served with your favorites sides. Or over a toasty baguette smeared with horseradish aioli. Or even raw—finely chopped, topped with a golden egg yolk, and complemented by subtle spices.

Backstrap is my number-one choice (see the following recipes); the hindquarter cuts, however, come in at a close second. Simply debone the hindquarter and muscle it out—that is, once deboned, use a sharp boning or fillet knife and cut along the muscle groups so that you’re left with four to five sections of meat. Remove silver skin and any tendons, and then use as you would the backstrap.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 59

As for those tough, less-than-ideal cuts that come from the front shoulder and excess: stew, braise, and smoke. Make jerky or sausage,

VenisON CaRpaccIo

or grind into hamburger and use in

Carpaccio is a traditional Italian

refrigerator, uncovered, to dry out.

place of beef in your favorite tacos,

preparation of raw beef, pounded

Let dry for at least 1 hour before

meatballs, and more.

thin and served with a drizzle

using. Cured egg yolks will keep in the

of lemon juice and olive oil. This

refrigerator for about a week.

As a young girl I always looked

striking raw plate, which will excite

forward to fall—to hunting season,

your palate and impress your guests,

When ready to use, simply grate over

when I’d tag along with my dad to

is surprisingly simple to prepare. I’ve

your desired dish.

our deer lease and begin stocking up

substituted the standard beef with

the freezer for the year. Like so many,

tender cuts of raw axis deer; a zingy

For the venison carpaccio, add all

I grew up on Mom’s chicken fried

shallot vinaigrette stands in for

vinaigrette ingredients to a bowl

backstrap—my Dad’s favorite way

plain old lemon juice. I designed this

and whisk to combine. You may

to eat venison. It was thin, crispy,

recipe to allow for “freestyling,” so

substitute red onion for the shallot.

and tender, slathered in peppered

prepare to add a little of this and a

Once combined, you can begin to

white gravy. Over the years I became

little of that.

plate the dish.

determined to perfect this home-

To achieve the thinnest, most

cooked classic. In this feature I have

The cured egg yolk, optional in this

tender venison possible, pound it

shared with you all my surefire recipe

recipe, is the only thing that you’ll

out. Start by laying down a sheet of

to yield the crispiest, most flavorful

need to prepare in advance. Grated

cling wrap. Slice venison as thinly as

product—with a few tricks that you’ll

cured egg yolk is an easy, impressive

possible (about eighth-inch slices)

find helpful whether you’re chicken

finish that adds depth and rich flavor

and assemble the sliced venison on

frying venison, ribeyes, or anything

to any number of dishes, including

the cling wrap in a circular pattern.

else your heart desires.

fresh pastas, salads, and steak.

Once you’ve sliced enough venison

These days, dad stays busy at the

To make the cured egg yolk, mix salt,

another sheet of cling wrap on top.

deer lease taking down axis deer, my

sugar, and black pepper in a shallow

Use the smooth side of a mallet to

personal favorite of all wild game

bowl. Using a spoon, make a well in

pound the venison. Pound gently,

meats. Axis is milder in flavor than

the center of your curing mixture.

working from the inside outward, so

whitetail. Its meat is purple-pink in

Gently place an egg yolk in the well.

that you retain the circle shape.

color rather than the deep red of

Using your spoon, cover the egg yolk

most other wild game. Regardless of

with the salt/sugar mixture. Place the

When you have achieved desired

the animal’s size, I’ve found axis to

bowl, uncovered, in the fridge. The

thinness, remove the top sheet of

be more reliably tender when cooked;

curing mixture will draw out moisture

cling wrap and use the bottom sheet

it can please even the pickiest of

from the egg yolk.

of cling wrap to transfer and turn

to create a 6- to 8-inch circle, lay

eaters. I use axis deer in both of the

out onto a plate. Once on the plate,

recipes I’ve provided; you should

After at least 24 and up to 72

feel free to substitute any large

hours, the egg yolk will be ready.

wild game, from elk to nilgai and

Gently remove the egg yolk from the

Now you have a plate of thin

everything in between.

curing mixture and rinse with cool

venison—and the fun begins. Sprinkle

water until all the salt and sugar

the meat with flake salt and crack

is removed. Pat dry with a paper

some pepper on top.

towel and return the egg yolk to the

60 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

remove the other sheet of cling wrap.

In a separate bowl, toss a handful

INGREDIENTS:

SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE:

of arugula with a bit of shallot

venison backstrap, or hindquarter loin

1/3 cup olive oil

vinaigrette. Place the dressed arugula

parmesan, shaved

2 tsp lemon zest

on top of the venison in the center of

arugula

1/4 cup lemon juice

your plate.

cured egg yolk, grated

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

shallot vinaigrette

1/2 tsp salt

Drizzle another tablespoon or so of

flake salt (Maldon brand)

1/2 tsp fresh cracked black pepper

vinaigrette on the venison, adding

fresh cracked black pepper

1/2 tsp honey

shaved parmesan and grated egg yolk

1 tbsp minced shallot

to finish. Serve immediately, getting

CURED EGG YOLK:

a little bit of each ingredient with

1 egg yolk

every bite.

2/3 cup kosher salt 2/3 cup granulated sugar 1 tbsp fresh cracked black pepper

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 61

ChiCKen FRieD VenisON I have worked hard to perfect my

secret to the best-ever chicken-fried-

chicken fried venison so that the

anything.

crust is as light and crunchy as possible. The method I use to bread

Slice venison backstrap in quarter-

INGREDIENTS:

my venison can be used with any

inch medallions and lightly pound

Dutch oven and vegetable oil, for

protein you plan to fry.

with the tenderizing side of a mallet.

deep frying

Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3 cups all-purpose flour 4 tsp baking powder

For this recipe you’ll need a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed

Begin breading the venison. Each

2 tsp kosher salt

pot for deep frying and plenty of

piece will go first into the cornstarch,

1 tsp fresh cracked black pepper

vegetable oil. I’ve found that deep

then into the buttermilk/egg mixture,

1 tsp onion powder

frying ensures the crispiest results.

and finally into the flour mixture.

1 tsp garlic powder 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

Although shallow frying is my go-to for chicken, deep frying is a must for

Press the flour mixture onto each

1/2 tsp paprika

this recipe.

side of the venison so it sticks well.

1½ cups buttermilk, divided 1 cup cornstarch 1 egg

Start by setting up a three-bowl

Deep fry the venison at 350º for

breading station. In one bowl add

about three minutes, or until golden

one-half of the buttermilk and one

brown and crispy. Let drain on paper

GRAVY:

egg. Whisk to combine.

towels.

1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tbsp butter

While the venison drains, begin

2½ tbsp flour

making the gravy: Melt butter with

1 cup heavy cream

In the last bowl add flour, baking

vegetable oil in a saucepan and whisk

1 cup whole milk

powder, and spices. Whisk to

in flour. Cook for a couple of minutes.

1 tsp salt

combine. Once combined, drizzle

Then whisk in milk, heavy cream, and

1 tsp fresh cracked black pepper

remaining buttermilk on top. Using

spices until smooth. Cook on medium-

1/2 tsp onion powder

your fingers, mix and crumble the

low heat until thickened.

1/2 tsp garlic powder

In the next bowl add the cornstarch.

pinch cayenne pepper

buttermilk into the flour until shaggy bits start to form. This will create

Spoon peppered white gravy on top

a crunchy substantial last layer of

of the chicken fried venison and

crust for our fried venison. This is the

finish with sliced green onions.

62 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 63

By Trey Reid There’s a lot of folklore and fiction

changed all that much since the 18th

a burgeoning “foodie” culture

surrounding the story of bourbon

century, bourbon’s recent history

and one of its subsets, the craft

whiskey, with apocryphal accounts

has been one of its most intriguing

cocktail movement. It’s unlikely that

of everything from how the spirit

periods. It’s enough to make your

marketing and advertising haven’t

got its name to who invented it. Its

head spin without ever taking a sip.

played a role, and some even point

etymology has been linked to both

to pop culture influences such as the

a county in Kentucky and a street

Bourbon has surged in popularity

Old Fashioned-drinking crew of the TV

in New Orleans. It’s hard to trace

over the past decade, a meteoric

series Mad Men.

bourbon’s roots more specifically

rise that’s often called the “Bourbon

than early American farmers using

Boom.” In Kentucky, which accounts

Whatever the reasons, there’s

surplus corn to make hooch, but

for 95 percent of the world’s bourbon

no doubt bourbon is booming, so

being fans of irony, we’re partial to

production, there’s more of it aging

you’d think it would be easier than

the creation myth that attributes its

in charred oak barrels in rickhouses

ever to find your favorite bottle at

invention to Baptist minister Elijah

than at any time since 1970.

reasonable prices. But that’s not

Craig.

necessarily the case.

“Consumption habits follow

Regardless of its actual provenance,

generational trends,” says Stan

It’s largely a matter of the simple

there’s no argument that bourbon is

Hastings of Moon Distributors

economics of supply and demand.

distinctly American, a democratizing

Inc., whose family has been in the

There were 8.5 million barrels of

spirit that’s consumed from blue

wholesale liquor business since 1935.

bourbon aging in Kentucky in January

collar bars to corporate boardrooms

“But nobody can really nail it down to

2019 (almost twice as many barrels

and all points in between. Bourbon

any one thing on why it happened.”

as Kentucky residents), but bourbon

is patience and resolve manifested

is a longterm proposition. Although

in a sweet and smoky amber liquid,

Some attribute bourbon’s 21st

bourbon only has to age two years to

and although its basic formula and

century renaissance to wider food

be labeled “Straight Bourbon,” many

manufacturing process haven’t

and beverage trends, including

distillers let their bourbon stay in

64 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 65

barrels considerably longer, 10 to 12

receive less. If you live in New York

Retailers also struggle to price

years or much more in some cases.

or Miami, for example, the odds

legitimate releases when demand is

of finding a bottle of Weller 12 or

so high on the secondary market.

“It’s hard to forecast what the market

Blanton’s is much better than if

will be doing years in advance,”

you live in Biloxi or Pensacola. There

“It happens,” Farris says. “When you

Hastings notes. “With vodka, you can

are also longstanding relationships

have a bottle that should probably

make it today and sell it tomorrow.

between distillers, wholesalers, and

sell for $69 but you know somebody

It’s much easier to forecast sales and

retailers that factor into allocations.

is going to snatch it up and turn

trends. We’re supposed to be putting a

around and sell it for $200 on the

34-year-old bourbon on the market by

“We still have to fight for everything

secondary market, it’s just hard to

the end of the year. That’s an extreme

we get because we’re in a small town

see that happen, so yeah, sometimes

example, but name another product

in a small state,” says Jamie Farris,

you might try to find some middle

where you’re forecasting five to seven

owner of Lincoln Road Package Store

ground between average retail and

years out.”

in Hattiesburg, Mississippi. “When

the secondary market price.”

we get an allocation of three bottles The inverse relationship between

of something our customers really

It’s still a great time to be a bourbon

bourbon’s availability and its price

want, how are you going to be fair in

drinker. Thanks to the bourbon

is also driven by such factors as

distributing that?”

renaissance and market trends

geographic disparities in allocation

resulting from it, there’s probably

there’s probably more market today than at and a robust—and illegal—

The bourbon secondary market has

more quality bourbon on the market

secondary market.

played an outsized role in prices and

today than at any previous time.

scarcity. Facebook is often cited as

According to the Kentucky Distiller’s

Since ratification of the 21st

a culprit because of huge bourbon

Association, bourbon production has

Amendment repealed Prohibition

groups that formed in the space,

increased 360 percent since 2000, a

in 1933, the individual states

but many bourbon enthusiasts point

surge driven by premium small-batch

have controlled the importation,

out it’s simply ruthless capitalism at

and single-barrel brands.

distribution and sale of alcohol inside

play and the secondary trade could

their borders. This has resulted in

happen anywhere. Facebook has shut

The Distilled Spirits Council of the

wide variances in state liquor laws,

down the groups in recent years, and

United States reports that American

as well as the three-tier system in

some distillers have put financial

whiskey sales were up almost 11

which suppliers sell their products to

and legal resources into quelling

percent in 2019, resulting in revenue

wholesalers, who then sell them to

the secondary market (counterfeit

of almost $4 billion for US distillers

retailers such as bars, restaurants,

products become a problem when

last year. Revenues for high-end

and liquor stores. While the system

huge sums of money are at stake).

premium brands (defined by the

is designed to ensure product

But when an $80 to $100 bottle

industry group as $20 to $35 a

safety and efficient tax collection,

of bourbon can be sold for $500 to

bottle) were up 34 percent from 2014

it sometimes has the unintended

more than $1,000, people find a way

through 2019, while revenues for

consequence of uneven distribution.

to make the transaction. Another

super-premium brands (more than

Big markets in urban centers sell

consequence is that some brands

$35 a bottle) were up 137 percent

more bourbon, so wholesalers and

have used the inflated secondary

over the same period.

retailers there are typically allocated

prices as an opening to increase

more of it while smaller markets

prices for legitimate releases.

66 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

But what distinguishes one bourbon

such as Jim Beam, Four Roses, and

own products mature. Midwest Grain

from another? By US law bourbon

Basil Hayden’s have spicier notes that

Products in Indiana is a huge producer

must be produced in the US (not

balance the corn’s sweetness.

that makes bourbons (and even more

just in Kentucky, as a common myth

rye whiskeys) for multiple labels.

suggests), made with a grain mixture

The aging process contributes

that is at least 51 percent corn, aged

additional nuance. The length of

Just as with wines, there are

in new charred-oak containers, distilled

time a bourbon spends in an aging

noticeable differences across

to no more than 160 proof (80 percent

barrel is an obvious determinant of

bourbons. Using the nose and tongue

alcohol), entered into the container

flavor, with longer aging resulting in

in tandem, tasters point to profiles

for aging at no more than 125 proof

more wood tannins interacting with

that are “sweet” or “spicy,” “round” or

(62.5 percent alcohol), and bottled

the liquid, but a barrel’s placement

“flat.” You’ll hear about flavor notes

at 80 proof (40 percent alcohol) or

in a warehouse and the climate

like vanilla, cinnamon, leather, oak and

more. (This is a good time to note

conditions over years of aging also

myriad fruits.

that the top-selling American whiskey,

alter a bourbon’s profile. The water

Jack Daniels, technically meets all the

used in the manufacturing process

“It’s not as crazy as it sounds,”

requirements to be labeled bourbon

plays another role. An oft-cited

explains James Cripps, a bourbon

but prefers to be labeled Tennessee

reason for Kentucky’s bourbon

aficionado and 30-year veteran of

whiskey. The Tennessee Legislature

prominence is the combination of

the liquor business. “If you can tell

has adopted its own law that sets

the water found in its limestone

the difference between a favorite

quality bourbon on the any previous time. out requirements for a product to be

substrate and the region’s wide

tomato sauce for pasta, you can tell

labeled as such, which includes the

swings in seasonal temperatures.

the difference between your favorite

process of maple charcoal filtration,

bourbons. It’s sometimes subtle, but

the only significant difference in the

“Not one single barrel tastes the

manufacturing process.)

same,” says Farris, who travels to

it’s there.”

Kentucky several times a year to

Lucky for drinkers, there’s a lot of

There’s still room for considerable

make barrel selections that are

bourbon out there to consider, even

variation within these basic

bottled specifically for his Mississippi

if market forces are making it more

requirements. The mash bill, or the

retail store. “There’s so much that can

expensive that it used to be.

composition of the grain types used

change the profile, from the position

in manufacturing, is the first way to

in the rickhouse to the barrel itself.”

alter a bourbon’s flavor profile. While

TFFM’s newest editor-at-large, Trey Reid, has written for numerous

the spirit is required to be 51 percent

These variances help explain one of

newspapers, magazines, and

corn, in most cases it’s usually more

the bourbon industry’s open secrets.

websites, and is a former field

like 70 or 75 percent corn, with rye,

While there are more brands and

reporter for ESPN. He works in public

wheat and barley typically comprising

distillers than ever, the vast majority

and media relations for the Arkansas

the rest. Wheated bourbons, or those

of the bottles behind your favorite bar

Game and Fish Commission,

that use wheat as the second-highest

and on liquor store shelves likely came

producing and hosting the agency’s

portion of the mash bill, typically

from just a handful of manufacturers.

television show, Arkansas Wildlife.

feature smooth, mellow flavor profiles.

Some brands buy bourbon produced

He also hosts the outdoor radio show

Popular brands like Pappy Van Winkle,

by other distillers, while many

The Wild Side on 103.7 FM The Buzz

Weller, Maker’s Mark, and Larceny are

startups and craft labels use existing

in Little Rock, which can also be

wheated bourbons. High-rye bourbons

bourbon to bridge the gap until their

heard as a podcast.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 67

Bourbon and Kronan Swedish Punsch This simple 50/50 mixture combines America’s native spirit with the national drink of Sweden. Kronan is made from various rums, bitters, and spices. At 52 proof, it cuts the bourbon nicely, and its high sugar content provides a roundness to this cocktail. Mix in an orange peel and you have a new version of the Old Fashioned that’s easily scaled up for big batches. This cocktail is an ideal after-dinner drink that goes very well with a fine cigar.

2 ounces bourbon 2 ounces Kronan Swedish Punsch Mix and pour over ice in a rocks glass.

Campfire Sour This cocktail is a riff on the classic whiskey sour, using a slightly higher-proof bourbon and a unique amaro, an herbal liqueur whose name in Italian means “bitter.” This 40-proof amaro comes from the Italian Alps and sports a smoky flavor profile with alpine herbs, berries, and rhubarb that compliment the bourbon, while the lemon juice provides a citrus counterpoint.

1 1/2 ounces 90-proof bourbon 1 1/2 ounces Amaro Sfumato Rubarbaro 1/2 ounce lemon juice Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a double rocks glass filled with ice. Garnish with a lemon wheel.

Lion’s Tail This classic cocktail is similar to a sour but replaces lemon with lime. The allspice dram (a 45-proof, rum-based liqueur made with Jamaican allspice) and bitters give this cocktail an appropriate spiciness that melds the tropical and the seasonal.

2 ounces bourbon 1/2 ounce St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram 1/2 ounce lime juice 3/4 teaspoon simple syrup 1 dash Angostura bitters Shake ingredients with ice and double-strain into a coupe. Garnish with a lime wheel.

68 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 69

Sea Trout in Northern Europe Text and Photos by Barry Ord Clarke To most fly anglers, Norway is

and west from Sweden, Norway runs

the cold salt water of winter, it’s not

synonymous with big, powerful rivers and

from the 58th parallel in the south to the

only you who begins to feel the effects.

equally big salmon. However, few visitors

71st parallel north of the Arctic Circle.

Coastal sea trout, which have spent much

realize that we also have a wealth of sea

Norway has a coastline that is 21,347

of the winter in energy-saving mode, are

trout fishing. These are brown trout with

kilometers (13,281 miles) long, including

now ready for the spring feast. For the

the lifestyle and habits of the salmon—

bays and fjords. In proportion to the

coldest part of winter sea trout are as

our two most celebrated gamefish rolled

country’s area, this coastline is longer

inactive as possible and hold to areas

into one—combining the best of both

than that of any other major country in

that are warmest and where the sea has

species, and all the capriciousness of

the world. The Norwegian coastline faces

a higher content of fresh water. They

both.

the North Sea in the south, the Norwegian

can be difficult to catch then, but a large

Sea (Atlantic Ocean) in the west and the

streamer fished slowly can tempt a winter

Barents Sea in the north.

fish.

half a century here in Northern Europe,

Springtime in Northern Europe starts

In late winter and early spring, look for

it’s only in the past 25 years that it has

slowly. On my latitude, the first hint of

areas containing warmer water, 4 degrees

actually become popular. For myself and

green can’t be seen before early to mid-

Celsius (39 degrees Fahrenheit) or more

many other Scandinavian fly anglers, it

April. It starts to show itself in last year’s

(a thermometer is an important piece

has opened up two entirely new seasons

dark and twiggy growth. The stark black

of equipment for the serious sea trout

in the fishing calendar—winter and

lines of tree branches begin to soften

angler). Concentrate on shallower, south-

spring—when other fishing just isn’t

as the longer days signal the change

facing, sun-rich bays and beaches whose

available, because of our severe winters.

of season and the beginning of the

waters have some flow. It doesn’t take

awakening from winter.

much more than this for the sea trout’s

Although fly fishing for sea trout in salt water has been practiced for well over

Norway is situated in the heart of Scandinavia. Northwest from Denmark

70 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

appetite to awaken from its winter’s sleep.

When the spring sun has begun to warm

Also look for structure in the water—large

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 71

72 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

stones, islands, or cliffs. These structures

Choose an outfit in the 6- to 8-weight

A good rule of thumb when fishing blind

collect and store heat from the sun, and

range, depending on the wind, matched

is to start by making a couple of casts,

this will warm the surrounding waters.

with a weight-forward floating or

followed by a couple of steps, working

intermediate line. For flies, streamers,

your way along the shore, and repeat

When water temperatures begin to rise

shrimp, and scud patterns are the norm

this until you contact fish. Sea trout are

over 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees

in sizes 6 to 12. Choose your tippet

constantly on the move, foraging, and if

Fahrenheit), sea trout will become

based on the size of the hook, but sea

you find one, there are generally more. If

much more active in their hunt for food.

trout generally are not leader-shy.

you don’t see or contact any fish within

They’re aggressive predators, and during

15 minutes, move on to a new spot. It’s

spring and summer they need to fatten

Look for patchy bottom of mixed sand

said that the most important piece of

themselves up after the winter’s fast.

and weeds, any sheltered spots in small

equipment for fishing saltwater sea trout

bays, or deep runs between islands

is a car!

Fly fishing for coastal sea trout in

where the tide rushes through like a

Scandinavia always involves wading.

river. Keep in mind that sea trout are

It’s also very common to see sea trout

Shore environments have a wide variety of

easily spooked. Start fishing before you

rising, just like trout cruising in a lake. If

wading conditions. From the archipelago of

come down to the water’s edge, and

you can put a fly into the path of one of

southern Norway traveling north along the

under no circumstances should you

these rising fish, nine times out of ten

coast, you’ll find boulders to pebbles and

begin to wade before you’ve fished the

they’ll pick it up!

shingle and plain sand—all shorelines can

shallows close to shore. A rule of thumb

produce fish. In winter and spring the sea

is to use a slow retrieve in winter and

Don’t look out the window and decide to

can be extremely cold, so many anglers

throughout spring. Fish your cast to the

stay home because it’s windy or raining.

prefer warmer neoprene waders over

end—sea trout like to follow the bait a

When the wind blows from the sea

thinner, breathable GORE-TEX.

few meters before they take.

against the land, all the food in the top few meters of water will collect near the shore. And wherever there is the most food, that’s where the sea trout will be. An onshore wind produces some of the best fishing. Under the cover of bad weather and high waves, large, shy fish will come into the shallows to feed.

Another useful piece of equipment when wading the salt is a line tray or shooting basket. If you’re fishing an intermediate or sinking line, shooting line from the tray is much easier than trying to shoot line that’s sunk in the water. When fishing from shore, the tray helps keeping sand off the line and out of the iron grips of bladder weed.

In a river, trout are stationary much of the time and wait for their food to be brought to them. Rather like they’re in a restaurant, they eat what they’re served at the table.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 73

Sea-run trout, on the other hand, have

Your chances of experiencing a large

trout cruise the shallows to feast on them.

to forage, and for the most part they

swarming are best after the water has

A sea trout can actually swallow and

feed “a la carte.” Sea trout in salt water

risen in temperature above 6 or 7 degrees

digest a fish that’s a third its own body

feed on a wide variety of prey species,

Celsius (43 to 47 degrees Fahrenheit)

weight, which is perhaps something to

but at certain times of the year they can

and around the full moon—but this is not

consider when designing and tying flies

be quite selective, and you may have to

a fast rule, as this year we experienced

for them.

“match the hatch.” For example, in early

a swarming during a warmer day on

spring the ragworms swarm and spawn,

a full moon in early March. Ragworm

In general, night is a good time to fish

creating the saltwater equivalent of a

swarmings can be very local in most

for sea trout. Consider that the sun has

mayfly hatch. The ragworm’s wedding,

situations, and it’s not easy to know where

been high in the sky all day and warming

as it is known, is considered the spring’s

they’ll happen.

up the shallows, especially those with

most exciting adventure for the sea trout

dark, muddy bottoms. These shallow

angler. And if you’re lucky enough to be

In summer, too, sea trout will feed

areas retain the day’s heat during the

in the right place at the right time, you’re

selectively on sand eels [see issue 47

first couple of hours of darkness. It’s

sure to connect with fish.

May/June 2020 for Barry’s tying feature

during this period that larger sea trout

on the Flat-Wing Sand Eel, eds.]. Also, if

venture into the shallows to feed—much

You can find ragworms in the stomach

you’re lucky and your timing’s right, great

shallower than many anglers would

contents of sea trout the entire year, but

dry fly sport may also be had when flying

believe. You should fish at least a couple

in the spring when you’re fishing a large

ants hatch and blow off the forested

of hours into the night. Try using Muddler

swarming, you’ll find that they’ll fall out of

coastline, triggering the silvery saltwater

Minnows, which will push a bit of water

the mouths of fish when you land them.

trout to rise as freely as their freshwater

when retrieved. Fish slowly and listen for

A ragworm fly should be fished slowly, so

cousins.

splashes.

If you experience that fish follow and will

Late summer and autumn sees the arrival

Night or pre-dawn fishing for sea trout

not take, it sometimes works if you place

of the herring; this means big baitfish

holds a very special place in my fishing

your rod under one arm and retrieve the

patterns. Herring shoal in the shallows,

repertoire; however, because my night

fly a hand-over-hand.

and under cover of darkness the larger

vision isn’t what it used to be, I now seem

that it swims like it’s flowing in the water.

74 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

to spend more time changing flies and leaders than actually fishing.

There are many opinions about the best tides to fish for sea trout. In winter it’s most rewarding to fish the warmest part of the day, between 11:00 and 14:00 (2:00 p.m.), regardless of tide. When the water warms, in most cases it’s best to fish a couple of hours before the high tide to a couple of hours after.

There are also many many differing thoughts about the best times to fish.

If I’m restricted by the amount of time I can fish, I have a simple rule: two hours before high tide or two hours before and into dark (if you can get both high tide and darkness to coincide, you’re generally onto a winner). However, the soundest advice anyone can give you is to fish when you have the chance. Those who fish the most will catch more fish and gain the most experience.

Last but not least: Unlike fishing for Atlantic salmon, fishing in salt water for sea-run browns in Norway is free; no national or local licenses are required, although fishing regulations vary from county to county.

Barry Ord Clark is an angler, fly tier, and photographer of international renown. He is the author of several books on fly fishing, the most recent of which is The Feather Bender’s Flytying Techniques (Skyhorse Publishing, 2019). Barry grew up in England but now lives in Norway. Be sure to visit his fly tying website (thefeatherbender.com).

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 75

No Sancocho

BY MARK B. HATTER

What line should I bring with my

I had shared with the boys my

12-weight rod?

thoughts and wisdom, from flies and

It’s 9 a.m. We are 35 miles southwest

What’s the best color to tie for a

lines to tippets and double hooks.

of Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala,

sailfish fly?

After all, this would be my seventh trip

in the open Pacific Ocean. It is

How do you rig your double hooks?

for Pacific sailfish on fly tackle. And

uncharacteristically rough. The kind

Whaddya think of these flies I tied?

with more than a few billfish under

of rough that makes you want to puke.

Will a green and yellow mahi pattern

my belt, I was clearly the sage of the

The “Papagayo,” an easterly wind

work?

group.

associated with North American cold fronts, is piling up a steep sea with little interval.

“It’ll die by 11,” Captain Brad Philipps assures me as I brace my legs against the pendulum-like rocking we are enduring up on the bridge. I’m glad he’s confident. I’m not so sure.

The Decisive, Philipps’ 40-foot Gamefisherman, takes the sea in stride as spray whips behind the stern. Philipps is holding at just under 7 knots, scanning the water like a frigatebird. His plastic teasers and hookless baits smoke and chug in the clean water outside of Decisive’s wake.

Brandon McGlamery stands on the deck, hands on hips, legs spread wider than his shoulders, knees bending with the rolling deck. I’ve been here before, but McGlamery and Joe Brennan are billfish neophytes—which is why I’m on the bridge with the captain giving first-ups to the guys. *** In the month that preceded our adventure, McGlamery and Brennan were like kids on Christmas Eve. As our January trip approached, my cell phone began to blow up with text messages:

76 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

That is, until we arrived on deck of

“Is no good,” he declared, this time

seamless leaders to short shooting

the Decisive and Philipps’ first mate

pointing to the fly lines on the rods

heads with a seamless connection to a

Johnny looked at our stuff and shook

we’d brought.

short shot of 80-pound mono backing

his head. “No bueno.…” Johnny intoned.

for cushioning. If you hook a marlin, “The reels are fine, guys,” Philipps

you’re going to need that shock

reassured us, “But your fly lines won’t

absorber.”

“Que?” I questioned. My rigs seemed

work. The boys will re-rig your reels

just fine last time I went billfishing.

with what you’ll need on the way out:

The guys shot me a quizzical look. I shrugged my shoulders and offered a weak defense. “Well, I did say it’s been a while since I’ve done this….”

Then Philipps turned to me and pointed to my fly. “Hmmm,” he began, “I think we should rig you up with a Cam Sigler popper.”

I took this as code for, “Your fly won’t work.”

My fly was a large baitfish pattern tied in bright red flash material but with no popper head. I copied the pattern after my first trip to Guatemala nearly 15 years earlier when I fished with the late Captain Ron Hamlin.

Furthermore, I had shared this particular fly with Brennan and McGlamery—and they’d tied a bunch of them.

“I recognize the fly; it was Ronnie’s go-to,” continued Philipps. “You can try it, but with no popper head, it won’t chug water, and it’ll be harder for the sailfish to see.”

Stubbornly I elected to employ my Ronnie Hamlin fly anyway. I asked the mates to leave it on my 14-weight after they had re-rigged me with the proper shooting head; Johnny obliged, shaking his head in polite disapproval.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 77

of fresh baitfish lining the cooler, like bullets in a high-capacity rifle magazine.

“Cuantos?” Brennan asked Johnny.

“Cien!” Johnny answered with a smile.

One hundred ballyhoo, rigged without hooks, at the ready!

From the bridge, Philipps noticed the three of us marveling at the bait box.

“I have four freezers at home loaded with 10,000 freshly frozen ballyhoo,” Philipps’ watchword is preparation—

he told us. “The boys rig around a

which was immediately apparent

hundred baits each day—sometimes

when we stepped aboard the Decisive

more if the bite is going off.”

and marveled at his array of teasers, rods, and hookless baits as well as the

I suppose we shouldn’t have been

immaculately clean cockpit.

surprised. In his 15 years fishing Guatemala, Philipps has amassed a

78 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

The Yeti cooler behind the mid-deck

stockpile of trophies and accolades

rocket launcher/rod holder/rig station

from every bluewater organization on

caught Brennan’s eye. Johnny cracked

the planet. On November 30, 2015,

the lid to reveal an astounding array

he released his thirty-thousandth

billfish. (Most of these he has caught

“Cast!” Philipps hollers to McGlamery.

on conventional tackle.) Consider that

plastics. “Everything except cast when I told you to.”

the Guatemalan fishing season runs

“What?” McGlamery asks, turning his

from October through May; simple

head toward the bridge.

math tells us, then, that Philipps has

In point of fact, I think something was lost in the translation. Philipps,

released an average of 16 sailfish per

“Cast!” shouts Philipps again, and this

who is South African, can speak at

day. No wonder his crew rigs so many

time McGlamery obliges, placing the

least three different languages that

‘hoo and Philipps deploys dozens of

fly smack-dab where the teaser had

I know of. Nevertheless, Afrikaans

plastic teasers (of various colors and

been seconds before.

is his first language. So it comes as

sizes) for a single day’s charter. ***

no surprise to me that McGlamery In an instant the sailfish crashes

was momentarily mystified by what

the fly, and McGlamery hammers

sounded to him like “cahst.”

the hook home with a straight pull So there we are, thrashing along on a

backward against a drag tight enough

Baits deployed, it isn’t long before

whipped-up sea that looks more like

to tow a car.

McGlamery has another shot and

a sheet of crumpled and then hastily

performs brilliantly, at last landing

smoothed aluminum foil, when

Thirty feet behind the Decisive an

and releasing his first billfish on the

Philipps suddenly comes alive.

exceedingly pissed off 80-pound

fly.

sailfish launches vertically and tail“Left long—get your fly in the water!”

walks across the sea for a long ten

By the time Joe Brennan is on deck,

This technique allows the angler to

seconds … before spitting the fly.

the wind has abated and the sea has

water haul the fly for a single cast after

smoothed to a rolling swell. Indeed,

the hookless bait is pulled from the

Sancocho! This is the Spanish word

Philipps was right—just before 11 the

fish nearly at the transom and the boat

for a pulled hook.

Papagayo has blown itself out.

is placed into neutral.

When the smoke clears, Philipps

We don’t have to wait long for Brennan

“He’s on it, Johnny! Tease it … tease

reassures McGlamery with his

to get his shot. A pair of hot fish come

it.... Get ready, Brandon!” Philipps

bite-sequence analysis: “You did

into the spread, and one explodes on

commands from the bridge while the

everything right,” he says, slipping the

the short rigger. The tease is perfect,

second mate clears other teasers and

Decisive’s transmission back into gear

the water haul on the money, and the

baits from behind the boat.

while the crew redeploys baits and

fish aggressive when he bites.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 79

“Hit him! Hit him!” McGlamery and I yell in unison, and Brennan does exactly that, jamming the hook into bone as if dropping a southside punk with a powerful right hook. No sancocho this time. In a matter of minutes, Brennan, too, is on the board with a beautiful cookie-cutter sailfish release.

High fives, fist bumps, and even a few celebratory man-hugs ensue. Brennan and McGlamery dig deep into the ice cooler for well-earned beers while Johnny retrieves my rig from the salon. Eyeballing my fly, Johnny hesitates, looks up toward Philipps, and again voices his concern: “No bueno….”

“It’s okay, Johnny,” Philipps reassures.

Johnny hands me my rod with the Ronnie Hamlin fly.

The bite has slowed a bit, long enough for the other guys to drink another round of beers and eat lunch. And all the while I’m sitting on the cooler, leaning against the salon window, and second-guessing my fly selection.

Until suddenly it’s too late to make a change—because it’s game on. A hot fish comes into the spread, and I drop my fly into the water at the transom, loading the rod when the fly is dragged back with the wake.

Seconds later Philipps hollers, “CAHST!” and I do, placing the fly at the edge of the white water near the transom. I mentally congratulate myself for not hosing up the shot.

Then nothing.

The crew pitches a bait and tries to reignite the fish’s interest. The fish is

80 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

having none of it. One and done. Not even a look-see.

What the hell?

Philipps is sanguine. “It was a good shot, but the fly was at the edge of the white water. The fish didn’t see it. If you had had a popper….”

I’m not sure what else Philipps says after that. I get a headrush from the sheer embarrassment of it all and go temporarily deaf. That tiny, sarcastic, snot-nosed little man on my left shoulder starts in with the mocking: “Attention on deck! The so-called sage has lost an opportunity because of his ego.”

No longer an alpha male, I turn to Johnny wearing a hangdog expression and ask, “May I please have one of your Cam Sigler poppers?” *** On our last evening we are invited to Casa Philipps in historic Antigua, once the multi-cultural capital of Central America, nestled between three volcanoes. After a dinner celebrating our successful billfishing adventure, we retire to the top deck of Casa Philipps to smoke Cuban cigars under the stars, sip whisky, and contemplate the vagaries of chasing billfish with the long rod.

The insolent (and sometimes deadly) volcano called Fuego belches a plume of smoke and rumbles its discontent in the distance, which adds a bit of drama to the otherwise circumspect atmosphere.

Philipps leans back and, like Fuego, releases a plume of smoke. “We know more about the moon than we know

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 81

82 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 83

about the habits of billfish,” he offers.

We are intrigued by his observation, but I am not so sure about his remark.

I have been to Guatemala many times in the last 15 years and have fished with several captains. Until last November I was familiar with Philipps only by reputation. Invariably, his name invokes admiration and competitive envy. And why not? He is now approaching 40,000 billfish releases. Philipps downplays his successes, however, explaining that his formula is simple: Preparation rewards opportunity. This was selfevident during our trip: Philipps found agreeable sailfish for the fly rod when the bite was uncharacteristically slow.

“I wish I could at least see a [expletive] sailfish!” one captain had quipped over the radio as we had raised yet another aggressive fish in our spread

84 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

on our last day.

The next time I sip whisky with McGlamery, Brennan, and Captain Brad Philipps, I will remind him of our starlight cocktail conversation. Then I will offer him the following amendment to his proposition: “We know more about the moon than perhaps most know about the habits of billfish.”

And we know just who that exception is.

Mark Hatter is a veteran outdoor writer and photographer who’s extensive works over three decades have been published in nearly three dozen different publication titles, including magazines, books, major advertising launches, catalogs, and, on-line media for the fly fishing and scuba diving industry.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 85

86 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Chrome from the Sea E. Donnall Thomas Jr. Photos by Don and Lori Thomas

Yesterday’s wind has gone wherever Whoever named the Pacific Ocean

But the North Pacific can be a fickle

it meant to go, and Clarence Strait

must have been engaged in magical

mistress, and the trick is to read her

rests as still as a backyard bass pond.

thinking. Piloting a small craft off

moods and accept her at her best.

Miles away to the east, the mainland

the coast of Alaska through irregular

There will be days when that same

Cleveland Peninsula appears to

seas created by conflicting winds and

dictionary doesn’t hold enough terms

lie within easy reach of a canoe,

tidal currents has made me wish for

of endearment to do her justice—

although I know better than to try.

dry land beneath my feet as much

and this is one of those days, the

Our skiff’s four-stroke outboard purrs

as I’ve ever wished for it in my life.

pleasure of the moment amplified

quietly as a kitten, but the noise

At times like that, “pacific” seems

by the memory of the week before

is still enough to leave me feeling

the most unlikely adjective in the

and NOAA’s prediction of the week to

vaguely embarrassed, as does the

dictionary.

come. To have remained ashore this

brief disturbance our wake creates

morning would have been churlish.

when it slaps the nearby shore.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 87

The silence that rises to greet us feels immensely welcome when I reach the point, cut the motor, and let the skiff slide to a gradual stop.

Across the channel a northbound cruise ship glides along, bearing its own community of visitors determined to make Alaska feel as much like the places they came from as possible. Perhaps it’s best that way. Mid-channel, two purse seiners cross paths bound in opposite directions, each evidently with its own ideas about where to find the fish. That’s it. Otherwise, my wife, Lori, and I are alone on the water save for Kenai, our immense, seaworthy yellow Lab, standing at the bow like the figurehead of a Viking warship.

88 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

While Lori twists the tops off our

I’ve timed our arrival to coincide

aluminum rod tubes—we’ve learned

with the morning low tide, but the

to respect the vulnerability of

currents and terrain are so complex

unprotected fly rods in bouncing

here that one never really knows how

skiffs—I watch the shoreline slide

the drift will behave until one can

along a hundred yards to starboard.

feel it. Easing gently back toward

the mouth of the bay, I like what

tree on the rocky point. The bird uses

like an osprey, the eagle flies in

I’ve found. Strong currents make for

the tree not as a residence but as a

search of fish as if it were making

difficult fly fishing.

vantage point from which to hunt.

a bombing run, and after banking

Now I watch it keenly as it lifts and

sharply a quarter mile offshore, it

Earlier in the summer, a mature bald

sets off across the glassy water.

begins to descend. Then it hits the

eagle took possession of a tall, dead

Instead of stooping dramatically

surface in an awkward splash and begins to struggle, talons locked upon something weighty.

The eagle cannot get airborne again—its wings are too wet, the load too heavy. But it isn’t giving up, either, and as it flaps laboriously back across the water toward shore, I spot the early morning sunlight flashing off something large and shiny in its grasp. It has caught a salmon that can only be a silver, and the fish was swimming close enough to the surface to be in reach of an eagle’s claws and hence a fly line.

Time to get ours in the water. ***

ANADROMOUS FISH ARE AT THEIR BEST, HOWEVER, BEFORE THEY BEGIN TO UNDERGO THE PROFOUND PHYSIOLOGICAL AND ANATOMICAL CHANGES FRESH WATER INDUCES.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 89

The vast majority of salmon taken on fly rods are caught in fresh water as they transition from the marine phase of their complex life cycle and move upstream toward the spawning

dead-weight humpies that most

grounds where they will reproduce

experienced anglers would just as

and die. Fishing for them there

soon do without. These changes are

is logical enough on many levels,

usually apparent in pinks holding in

ranging from the practical to the

the salt near a stream mouth even

aesthetic. Rivers concentrate fish

before they enter fresh water. Silvers

and identify prime locations to cast

and kings, by contrast, often remain

to them, and swinging streamers is

bright and strong miles upstream

a wonderful way to fish for salmon.

from the sea, with considerable

Furthermore, the inevitable cycle of

variation among drainages. I’ve

life and death never loses its capacity

enjoyed angling for those fish for

to impress as I watch it play out before me in real time.

Anadromous fish are at their best, however, before they begin to undergo the profound physiological and anatomical changes fresh water induces. Granted, “best” is a subjective term, but most anglers who have experienced salmon in the salt agree that they are more vigorous and challenging on the end of a line than they would be a few weeks after traveling up their natal stream. They strike harder, run more powerfully, and jump more frequently in the salt. They also taste better and are more nutritious, which may not matter to some but certainly does matter to coastal residents who have relied on salmon as traditional table fare for generations.

The rate of decline varies considerably by species. Pink salmon—the lightweights among the five salmon species in terms of both size and reputation as an angling quarry—can actually be a lot of fun as bright fish migrating along shorelines, but they require little more than a whiff of fresh water to start turning into the grotesque,

90 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

decades—but they still weren’t as

favorite places to fish for salmon,

techniques is free to do so with no

challenging on the end of a fly line as

since the fish (save for the pinks) are

disrespect intended. I simply fish the

they would have been at sea.

still bright and beautiful, and while

way I choose to fish, and TFFM is a fly

I’m catching them I can observe the

fishing magazine.

Over the years, I’ve taken numerous

diversity of wildlife that makes the

representatives of the last two

marine environment so fascinating.

Geographically, I’ll focus on Alaska’s

Pacific salmon species—sockeyes

If I’m in the mood for seafood, I

Southeastern Panhandle, for

(reds) and chums (dogs)—on fly

can even wait for low tide and dig

several reasons. Its all-but-infinite

tackle in what was technically salt

a bucket of clams before leaving.

labyrinth of islands and bays offers complex inshore terrain that can

THE HARDEST PART OF CATCHING SALTWATER KINGS ON FLIES IS GETTING THE FLY DOWN TO THE FISH BECAUSE THEY RUN DEEPER IN THE WATER COLUMN THAN OTHER SALMON SPECIES. A FAST-SINKING SHOOTING HEAD IS ESSENTIAL, BUT A KNOWLEDGE OF LOCAL TIDAL CURRENTS IS EQUALLY IMPORTANT.

The technical aspects of the fishing,

concentrate fish and provide shelter

however, don’t differ all that much

from the open ocean. Every small

from what takes place farther

community in the area offers access

upstream. So for the rest of this

to good water, and most of them are

piece I’ll focus on what I consider one

interesting destinations in their own

of North America’s greatest angling

right. Salmon bound for streams all

challenges: catching Pacific salmon

up and down the Pacific coast pass

on flies at sea.

through these waters seasonally, so their numbers are not dependent on

First, a matter of definition: When

spawning success in any particular

water, by which I mean that if I

I say fly fishing, I mean, well … fly

drainage in prior years. This kind

dipped my fingers in it and licked

fishing. I do not mean mooching

of fishing requires a target-rich

them my tongue would register

with a fly rigged to a banana weight

environment, and the fish are here.

“salt” in the impulses sent to my

connected to a fly rod. I do not mean

This coastline is spectacular, and

brain. Those encounters, however,

trolling a fly on a downrigger. It’s

diverse wildlife abounds. I used to live

took place in tidal estuaries. These

not that I’m a snob, and anyone

there and know the fishery better

intertidal zones are among my

who chooses to fish using those

than a casual visitor can. With all

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 91

EVIDENTLY WE’VE FOUND THE FISH, BECAUSE LORI IS HOOKED UP AGAIN BEFORE I’VE FOUND THE DRIFT I WANT.

this said, I readily acknowledge that

salmon,” one of the king’s many

Fly fishing for ocean kings is a bit like

the British Columbia coast offers the

nicknames. Peak king fishing usually

big-game hunting: A lot of time can

same benefits as a saltwater salmon

takes place between mid-June and

pass between encounters with the

destination.

mid-July along the Alaska coast, with

quarry, but just one such encounter

some variation by location and from

provides an immense sense of

year to year.

accomplishment and satisfaction. My

As for the fish, I’ll concentrate on silvers and kings because they

best ocean king was a 40-pound fish I

are the most rewarding, and their

The hardest part of catching

caught one morning near Sitka. I had

feeding habits make them a feasible

saltwater kings on flies is getting

previously lived for several years next

quarry at sea—in contrast to chums,

the fly down to the fish because they

to the famous Kenai River, where a

which feed largely on jellyfish, and

run deeper in the water column than

king that size was just another nice

sockeyes, which prefer zooplankton.

other salmon species. A fast-sinking

fish. Although I’d taken larger kings

We’ll go in chronological order

shooting head is essential, but a

on flies from the Kenai, none came

beginning with kings, which arrive

knowledge of local tidal currents is

close to inspiring the excitement

inshore earliest, even though they

equally important. As with current

of that fish from the Pacific. After

are significantly harder than silvers

in a river, the brisker the flow the

a surprisingly subtle strike on my

to catch on flies.

harder it is to get the fly deep. I

standard baitfish imitation, the fish

generally fish for kings within an

cleared the water a half-dozen times

While some resident “feeder” kings

hour of slack tide, either high or low,

as it ripped off 200 yards of backing

can be found near shore throughout

and avoid extreme tides altogether.

into the channel. Then it reversed

the winter, both the number and

Casting “upstream” into the tidal

course and headed inshore toward

average size of the fish increase

current and allowing the fly to swing

a kelp bed that could have spelled

with the arrival of migrating kings,

beneath the boat might not seem

disaster. Turning the fish put more

usually sometime in June. This

elegant, but it’s the most efficient

pressure on my 10-weight than any

schedule makes them the first of the

means of getting the fly down to the

tarpon, tuna, or giant trevally I’d ever

Pacific salmon to arrive every year,

25- to 50-foot depth usually needed

asked it to handle. After all that, a

as acknowledged in the term “spring

to reach kings.

prowling sea lion almost nailed the

92 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

fish as it came to the net. That story

fish than we can casting with fly rods.

Kenai rouses from his lethargy as

illustrates why I’m willing to invest

But even if you’re not lucky enough

a yard-long, mint-bright silver goes

the time and effort needed to hook a

to have an eagle on the payroll to do

airborne beside the boat. I start to

king in salt water.

the scouting for you, there are some

reel in frantically so that I can grab

tricks that can help get you casting

the net, but suddenly I’m hooked up,

to productive water.

too. In contrast to kings, which can

Silver salmon provide an interesting contrast to kings and are generally

strike with a subtlety that belies their

a much more fly-rod-friendly quarry

Terrain features like the rocky point I

size, silvers often slam streamers

at sea. While early returning silvers

described earlier can concentrate fish

hard. With my concentration

often overlap with kings, peak silver

migrating inshore toward their natal

elsewhere and one hand already

fishing usually takes place later in

streams, and underwater humps—

reaching for the net, I might have

the summer, from late July until

identified with the help of charts

lost my rod to this one. I’ve come

September. Silvers tend to be much

and a simple depth finder—attract

perilously close before.

more abundant, and when they’re

baitfish and feeding salmon. Kings

there it’s not unusual to hook

in particular will often congregate

Chaos reigns briefly as the two fish

multiple fish on one tide change.

near dropoffs adjacent to kelp beds.

circle in opposite directions and

The “fish finder” function on modern

cross our lines while Kenai barks

Silvers feed higher in the water

sonar can also be useful, especially for

encouragement. But it’s open water,

column than kings, which makes

locating kings. Personally I’m averse

and save for one determined run by

them far easier to fish for with fly

to relying too heavily on technology in

Lori’s fish for the nearest kelp bed,

tackle. An intermediate sink tip

the outdoors, so I have never used it

there is little room for error other

line will usually suffice, and I’ve

much for fish finding myself.

than that of our own making. Ten

even caught them right on top

minutes later, we’ve landed both

with floating lines. I like to have a

When I’m fishing with friends who

silvers and are back at it again.

spectrum of line options available so

are using conventional tackle, I often

Evidently we’ve found the fish,

I can reach fish at whatever depth

spend my time casting an 8-weight

because Lori is hooked up again

they’re feeding.

near the surface for silvers or pelagic

before I’ve found the drift I want. And

rockfish until they start hooking

so the action goes for nearly an hour

Kings and silvers at sea both feed

kings. That tactic saves a lot of wear

until it stops as abruptly as it began—

on a variety of squid, shrimp, and

and tear on my casting arm, and I

perhaps not to be repeated for the

baitfish. They are rarely selective, and

don’t regard it as cheating.

rest of the day, the rest of the week,

presentation at the optimal depth is

or the rest of the season.

always more important than specific

***

choice of fly patterns. I do most of

Who knows why? Mystery is just a

my fishing with a generic baitfish

Relatively free of obstructions,

part of the sea’s intrigue, and one

imitation that resembles a herring as

the skiff’s forward deck makes the

more reason why I keep coming back.

much as anything else. Eyes and some

craft’s best casting platform. Ever

flash are important ingredients in any

the gentleman, I’ve ceded it to Lori

A former Alaska resident who now

pattern meant for saltwater salmon.

while I do my best from the cluttered

lives in rural Montana, Don Thomas

stern. Sulking at my side, Kenai

and his wife, Lori, have fly fished

Any experienced angler can look at

makes it clear that he wishes we were

salt waters all around the globe.

a salmon stream and identify likely

duck hunting, but at least he knows

After growing up on Puget Sound and

places to start casting. The ocean,

enough to dodge the flying loops in

living in a coastal Alaska village, he

by contrast, is a huge place, and the

my running line.

has a soft spot for the North Pacific.

challenge of locating fish there can

Don’s and Lori’s work has appeared in

feel intimidating. Anglers trolling

For 20 minutes, we drift along on the

with conventional tackle can cover a

tide as casually as Huck Finn on the

lot more water while prospecting for

Mississippi. Then Lori whoops and

numerous national publications.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 93

CIRCUMNAVIGATING THE ISLAND

by Cameron Scott for Haley Let us speak the truths of our lives as hammocks strung between trunks, palapas shading the sand.

Let us cast at bonefish feeding over flats, rubber-lipped permit just out of reach, the trevally irretrievable in the current as garbage can lids, the tarpon cartwheeling in the slough.

In the lee of some winds. In the brunt of others.

Watch each step as each step washes away.

We can linger near the school of snapper or walk near the triggerfish’s kingdoms of coral.

You can tell me your beach sand, and I’ll tell you my black-tips. We can wait out storms or streak like barracuda through sunlight after needlefish as they shatter the surface in thin shards.

And when we have wandered far enough, the edge will lead us back to where we began.

94 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 95

Indian Ocean Bones

by Peter McLeod

I LOVE BONEFISH. I HOOKED MY FIRST BONEFISH ON THE FLATS OF TURNEFFE ATOLL IN BELIZE IN THE MID-1990S. I’VE CHASED THEM ALL OVER THE GLOBE SINCE THEN. THE THRILL OF THE STALK AND THE POWER OF THAT FIRST RUN STILL MAKE ME SHIVER IN EXCITEMENT.

Most of my early saltwater fishing

There’s something honest about

sand flats of St. Francois Atoll in

career was based in the Caribbean:

a bonefish. Unlike permit or other

the Seychelles. I had been used to

the marl flats of Mexico, the coral

such species, if you make the right

chasing pairs and small groups of

flats of Belize, the wide open sand

cast and the right presentation and

fish. As I slipped quietly over the

flats of the Bahamas, the edges

use the right fly, then the bonefish

edge of the skiff onto the hard sand,

in Cuba, the turtle grass flats of

will usually oblige you with a hookup.

my guide and fishing partner began

Venezuela. Here I spent hours,

to wade line abreast through the

days, and weeks creeping up on the

In the early 2000s I finally made my

ankle-deep water on a pushing tide

glistening tails of Albula vulpes,

way to the Indian Ocean to chase

across a flat that went on as far as

the gray ghost of the flats—the

a different kind of bonefish: Albula

the eye could see. Sea slugs littered

Caribbean bonefish.

glossodonta. I’ll never forget the

the bottom, with only the odd

first time I set foot onto the open

patch of green algae giving away

96 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

the tidal movement as it drifted

fish charging 6 feet to intercept

or even a particularly extraordinary

nonchalantly past us. Suddenly, as

and tailing on the fly aggressively.

experience. I was struck dumb.

though someone had thrown some

No sooner had one battle ceased

Twenty years later anglers are still

kind of switch, we hit optimal depth:

and the fish been released than

experiencing this caliber of fishing.

We were coming from the lagoon,

another target hove into view. A

and from the ocean came a tide of

river of fish was coming toward

What distinguishes the two species

bonefish right toward us. All of them

us; eventually I had to stop and

of bonefish? I can offer just a few of

appeared to be hungry.

just watch my fishing partner land

my own observations. For one thing,

fish after fish. It was a baptism by

the Indian Ocean bones are longer

It was carnage: A small size-6 Silly

fire, to be sure; upon chatting with

and leaner than the Caribbean fish.

Legs Gotcha cast ahead and given

the guides, however, I learned that

They don’t develop the incredibly

one small twitch was enough to have

ours was not an isolated incident

thick head and shoulders of some of

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 97

the really big bones I’ve seen in the Bahamas or Venezuela’s Los Roques.

In general, I’ve found that the Indian Ocean bonefish tend to move in bigger schools as opposed to singles and doubles. I suspect that this is for safety and something I have also seen on the flats of the Bahamas and Belize. Open sand flats simply don’t provide much cover from predators—especially barracuda, sharks, or that other apex predator of the Indian Ocean and Christmas Island flats, the giant trevally.

In the Indian Ocean the fishing can actually be better on a dropping tide as opposed to a pushing tide.

Generally speaking, this goes against convention—and might really come down to the structure of the flats. The huge drainage areas on these atolls drain into a series of channels that dissect the flats like the veins on a leaf. As the fish slide off the flats and are pushed into the channels, they seem to feed aggressively to grab that last meal. That “highway” the fish use to get to deeper water can be the perfect intercept point—if you can find it—and allow you to pick off fish without even having to move.

Although theoretically the Caribbean fish should behave in the same

98 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

manner, I’ve always found them to

guard really helps and landing a fish

off the beach, which is a little like

be quite spooky on a dropping tide.

always involves an element of luck

setting a hook into a brick. Many

and high rod angles.

fish bust off. I recommend using a

I’ve also noticed a slight distinction

9-foot tapered 13-pound leader with

in the way I fish for the two species.

Because the two species are more

three feet of 12-pound fluorocarbon

Indian Ocean bones react better to

or less the same fish, there is little

tippet for abrasion resistance (in

an ambush: I lead the fish quite a

difference in tackle and setup: think

case it finds the coral). This setup

long way and let the fly sink to the

9-foot, 7- or 8-weight rods paired

doubles for triggerfish, so I don’t

bottom; as the fish approaches,

with a reel equipped with a proper

have to change my rig.

one short strip is enough to kick up

drag. The Indian Ocean fish tend

the sand. The fish will often pounce

to be less leader-shy than their

Personal preference may guide your

like a cat on a mouse, tailing hard

Caribbean counterparts (presumably

fly choices. I’ve found that Indian

to prevent the tasty morsel from

because, again, they have seen fewer

Ocean fish in the far-flung atolls are

escaping. These fish seem to be less

people), so consider going heavier

suckers for shrimp-style flies with

timid in their approach, perhaps

on your leader setup. Rarely have I

rubber legs, perhaps because of

because they have less contact with

experienced more aggressive takes

the disturbance they create in the

humans. Fishing amongst the coral

than in the Indian Ocean--perhaps

sand, and perhaps because shrimps

of the oceanside flats is more akin

only when the bones of Venezuela’s

represent a big, solid meal.

to the Caribbean, where a weed

Los Roques hit a minnow pattern

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 99

I BELIEVE THAT BIG BONEFISH CAN BE JUST AS CHALLENGING—AND LEAVE YOU JUST AS JILTED, CRYING JUST AS HARD IN YOUR DRINK THAT EVENING—AS TARPON, PERMIT, OR TRIGGERFISH.

want to snaffle it. As I walked down

These days I like to fish a smaller

a finger flat in the middle of the

but equally effective pattern, the

lagoon I saw a pair of large bonefish

Itchy Trigger. Originally designed for

moving around in a white sand hole

triggerfish, this fly is tied on a much

amid the coral. I made a longish cast

heavier wire hook to withstand

and dropped the fly to the edge of

trigger chomping. It’s also an

the sand. Almost as soon as the fly

excellent pattern for Indian Ocean

landed both fish spooked out of the

bonefish. The heavier hook does

hole in the opposite direction.

not appear to worry the fish and

On Alphonse Island in the Seychelles

upsetting. But I did not move. Instead

I first tried one of these shrimp

I watched as one of these fish made

It’s possible to get much closer

patterns: a big size-4 with dumbbell

a massive arc around the flat before

to Indian Ocean bones; in some

eyes called a Will’s Skittal, a mantis

coming straight back through the

instances they’ll even take a fly

shrimp pattern developed by a

hole at almost full speed. It smashed

almost at the end of the rod. A

friend of mine on Ambergris Caye

the fly. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a

couple of years ago I found myself

in Belize as a permit fly. I took one

bonefish behave like that, but those

wading up the inner edge of a

look at the way it moved in the

shrimp flies accounted for many

huge area of white sand on the

water, pulsing bunny strip and all,

bones that week.

northeastern end of Providence

and I just knew that the fish would

100 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

certainly is reassuring when applying Obviously I found this mildly

maximum pressure.

Atoll in the Seychelles. It’s about as

perfect a bonefish flat as I’ve seen

flicked a rolling bead crab several

trying to catch up.

anywhere in the world, spanning

feet ahead of our prey without

approximately 1.5 kilometers from

even getting any fly line out of

My buddy and I grinned at each

the reef edge right across to the

the rod tip. The fish immediately

other. Slowly he began to regain

lagoon with an apex that meanders

accelerated; at the last minute,

line and some sense of control.

up the middle. Three of us and our

however, it shied away. By now it

Out of left field came our guide,

guide moored up the tender boat

was no more than 10 feet away,

running toward us across the flats

and began to wade up the flat

and as it moved off, I encouraged

brandishing his large net. Only in the

toward the apex, splitting into pairs.

him to make another cast as the

net did we realize what a tank the

The neap tide was dropping slowly,

fish now cruised to our right. The

fish was: It was 65 centimeters long

and as we hit mid-calf depth the

fly landed, he gave it one twitch

with a 33-centimeter girth, which

first fish slid down the flat toward

with the rod tip, and the bonefish

we reckoned was about 8 pounds. A

us. Its back looked almost green, so

attacked it. It tore off across the

superb specimen. We landed another

I suspect it had come off the grassy

flat, line tearing and reel singing as

six or seven fish in the next hour

areas to the east and now stuck out

the fish ripped through the surface

before the water height ruined our

like a sore thumb.

film and disappeared in a puff of

fun and the fish returned to the

sandy water. Fly line vanished in a

ocean.

The fish would soon be upon us, so

few seconds, closely followed by a

we hunkered down on the flat with

considerable amount of backing. The

Indian Ocean bonefish schools can

our chests nearly on the water.

fish was splashing in the distance

be much larger than Caribbean

My fishing buddy almost casually

and farther up the flat, the line still

schools—and Indian Ocean bones

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 101

seem to have a slightly larger

bonefish does require a slight

than another? I don’t know how to

average weight—but rarely do

change in tackle: A better tool for

answer that; personally I’m happy to

you see really big bonefish in the

such a job is a 9-weight, which will

chase either one. Many nights I fall

Seychelles. A 10-pound fish is

have more backbone to stop a fish

asleep thinking of their glistening

unusual out here, with one notable

hitting the dropoff. If you have

tails in the evening light. I dream

exception: Reached by a 36-hour

your sights set on a monster, St.

about the next time I will venture

overnight sail from Mauritius’

Brandon’s Atoll is where you should

onto the flats. It can never be too

capital city, Port Louis, St. Brandon’s

head. Still, over the years I have

soon.

Atoll boasts some of the largest

learned that catching big bonefish is

bonefish anywhere in the world.

not easy. Those who claim otherwise

TFFM’s Travel Editor, Peter

Leviathans inhabit those flats: St.

have never fished for big bones.

McLeod, is the founder

Brandon’s is home to an abundance

Those bones get big for a reason.

of Aardvark McLeod,

of 10-pound bonefish, and the fork

I believe that big bonefish can be

international fly fishing

lengths and dimensions of some of

just as challenging—and leave you

specialists. For more

the local bones suggest they might

just as jilted, crying just as hard in

information on fly fishing the

clock in in the mid-teens. The largest

your drink that evening—as tarpon,

Indian Ocean—or any other

one landed here to date had a fork

permit, or triggerfish. [Not sure

international destination—

length of 87 centimeters, which is

what Peter means by “target.” You

you can contact Peter at

just monstrous.

guys have any idea?]

peter@aardvarkmcleod.com

Of course, fishing for monster

Is one species of bonefish better

or visit his website at www.

102 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

aardvarkmcleod.com.

IMAGINE BEING

SKUNKED FOR ALL OF TIME

Photo: Silver Kings

AND NOW YOU KNOW WHY WE HELPED MAKE THE KEYS CATCH AND RELEASE.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 103

THE UNDERTOW Turkey in the Straw

by George Roberts

casting and fishing tools. If you’re

but if you’re expecting it to elevate

considering purchasing one or more

your casting game significantly—even

As the managing editor of a

of these carbon fiber whiz-sticks to

measurably—over a rod that costs

magazine that sells advertising space

add to your quiver, or even if you buy

considerably less, you’re deluding

to fly rod manufacturers, I’m inclined

nothing but the Latest and the Best,

yourself.

to choose my words judiciously

let me offer you a piece of advice by

when writing on the subject of fly

way of an analogy from music:

The fly anglers to whom I’ve given casting instruction invariably have

rod selection; however, I believe a magazine’s first obligation is to its

If you don’t ever intend to play

been better-heeled, better-travelled,

readers.

anything more than “Turkey in the

and better-outfitted than I. Several

Straw,” you don’t need to own a

years ago I did an unusual lesson

Stradivarius.

with an older gentleman who had

As someone who has fly fished for

booked a trip to Argentina. This

more than 50 years and taught fly casting for more than 25—

High-end fly rods are marketed and

man had never taken a fly casting

now virtually retired—I will state

bought with the tacit understanding

lesson before. The lodge where he

unequivocally that I believe the

that they will make their owner a

would be staying had a number of

premier fly rods produced by today’s

better fly caster. Certainly, a high-end

two-handed rods available to guests.

top manufacturers are phenomenal

rod won’t make you a worse caster,

He did not own a two-handed rod,

104 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

had no intentions of buying a two-

of his single-handed rods, because I

handed rod, but he wanted some

wanted to see his basic cast before

familiarity with them before he left

we began the lesson. I forget what

for his trip. I explained to him over

model of rod he brought, but it had

the phone that instruction with a

recently come on the market and I

two-handed rod was not the first fly

remember it had a $1,000 price tag.

casting instruction anyone should

I hadn’t cast this model yet, and he

receive, and that it was unrealistic

invited me to try it.

to think that a single lesson with a two-handed rod, with no practice

After taking a few casts, I said,

thereafter, would be adequate for

truthfully, “I like that very much.”

him to become proficient before he got to Argentina. He would not be

“Yes,” he said, smiling. “It’s an

dissuaded, however, and I agreed to

excellent rod.”

IT’S BEEN MY EXPERIENCE THAT VIRTUALLY ALL FLY RODS WILL DO WHAT THEY’RE SUPPOSED TO DO, PROVIDED THEY’RE PLACED INTO THE HANDS OF A COMPETENT CASTER.

meet with him—essentially to let him try a two-handed rod.

And then I watched him cast, and I wondered, How would you know…?

I had asked him to bring along one

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 105

I don’t mean this to sound

back cast is met with snickers).

condescending. But if you can’t

of YouTube. Nothing irks me more than to listen to some dweeb prattle

load or unload a rod well, can’t

Admittedly, I know almost nothing

on about the performance pros and

form a reasonable loop, and your

about fly rod design or construction.

cons of two rods when he’s obviously

timing sucks, how would you know

Back in the late 1990s I attended

not a good enough caster to do either

an excellent fly rod from a tomato

the Wulff Fly Casting Instructor

one justice. As Ludwig Wittgenstein

stake…?

School, and one of the attendees

proposed, “Whereof one cannot

began questioning me regarding the

speak, thereof one must be silent.”

Relatively few fly anglers ever

graphite modulus composition of

Sound advice for any fly angler who

attempt to learn how to cast in any

the rods I had brought with me. To

hasn’t taken the time to read Joan

formal or methodical way. And of all

which I replied, “You know, Bill, I don’t

Wulff.

the students I’ve taught in private

understand any of that stuff.”

lessons over the years, I can count

My involvement with fly casting

on one hand the number who’ve

Overhearing our exchange, Joan

instruction has given me better

come back for more than two. I’m

Wulff chimed in, “I don’t understand

access to equipment—in terms of

not sure why the game of fly fishing

any of that either—I just have to

industry discounts—than the average

has never matched the game of golf

pick the rod up and cast it.” If fly rod

fly angler. However, I’ve often said

in the latter’s acceptance of ongoing

technobabble means nothing to Joan

that if I were to cast a rod I couldn’t

instruction and regular practice. But I

Wulff, what do you suppose it means

live without, I’d buy it at full retail.

suppose it doesn’t help that we live in

to the average fly angler…?

This hasn’t happened yet. The rods I

a world where we can procure nearly

own and fish with are fairly modestly

anything we want instantly with the

Joan Wulff has likened choosing a

priced, and I also still own and fish

click of a mouse, or that we believe

fly rod to choosing a spouse; that is

with some rods that are over 20

we can learn everything we need to

to say, it’s largely subjective. When

years old. My wife would tell you that

for free from YouTube.

I first met Mark Sedotti he was on

because I grew up without money I’ll

the pro staff of a major rod company,

always be poor in my mind. There’s

I’ve often had the feeling, when doing

and the regional rep approached

probably some truth to this. Even

a casting lesson, that the student

me about joining as well. I’ve

with the deep discounts, high-end

was expecting me to “say the secret

always shied away from any serious

rods cost more than I’m comfortable

word” and make him a good caster.

involvement with rod companies

spending. The rods I regularly use

The world of fly casting instruction

because I believe that once you put

cast well, I believe, and I’m not

has a number of myths floating

yourself in the position of promoting

convinced I can realize the difference

about it as well, and the main one

a particular brand of fly rod

in performance between my rods and

that needs to be debunked is that

everything you say becomes suspect.

rods that cost three or four times as

such and such casting guru can take

And frankly, I didn’t care much for

much—and unless you’re in the very

a mediocre caster, work with him for

the rods. But my opinion then meant

top percentile of fly casters, I’m not

20 minutes, and have him casting

nothing, as it means nothing now:

convinced you can, either.

an entire fly line. There are several

Presumably Sedotti liked the rods,

theories as to what muscle memory

and he certainly had no difficulty

It’s not that I don’t expect a lot out of

actually is, but whatever it is it takes

making them perform spectacularly.

my fly rods—I do—but I expect even

more than 20 minutes to program.

more out of myself as a caster. A

In my own case, it took about ten

I strongly suspect that much of what

couple of years ago I bought a fly rod

years of regular practice before I

we believe about a particular fly rod

on eBay, a Garcia Conolon bass bug

felt I had a decent command over

has little basis in reality. If you’re

rod made in the early to mid-1960s,

my fundamental stroke (so I tend

shopping for a rod I can think of no

in the infancy of the fiberglass rod.

to get annoyed when my suggestion

greater waste of your time than

It was in the same line as the first

to students that they spend several

watching the plethora of “fly rod

fly rod I began fishing with at age

months working exclusively on their

shoot-outs” that glut the channels

seven. It was the same model of rod

106 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Lee Wulff used to make his tarpon

Buying a high-end fly rod ensures you

to earn a living wage—that is, a living

film with Stu Apte for The American

have a premium casting and fishing

wage, as nobody who is rolling blanks

Sportsman TV series and that he also

tool, one with an excellent repair and

or wrapping guides is getting wealthy

used to land his world record striped

replacement warranty, which should

doing it.

marlin. I bought it because I thought

last you 20 years of regular use

catching a few smaller tarpon

provided you take care of it. (And if

In the final analysis, the only reason

with it might make an interesting

you think of the price as a rental fee,

this retired fly casting instructor can

article. Even in its day this was not

divided yearly, it becomes much more

think of that you should not buy a

considered a fine fly rod: heavy, soggy

reasonable.)

high-end fly rod is that it will make

glass, metal ferrule, and a stripping

you a great fly caster. As I’ve learned,

guide whose diameter looked smaller

Buying a high-end fly rod is good

that will not be procured with the

than the fly line itself. (Anyone who

for the fly fishing industry as a

click of a mouse.

waxes poetic about the sweetness of

whole, including magazines such as

glass should spend an afternoon with

this, which rely on manufacturers’

this beast.) I suppose I should not

advertising dollars to help keep them

have been, but after waggling it I was

supplied with paper and ink. And

a bit surprised when this rod cast an

if you buy the rod from your local

entire Wulff Triangle Taper line.

brick-and-mortar fly shop you’ll help support an angling institution that

It’s been my experience that virtually

is fast-disappearing in the age of

all fly rods will do what they’re

Amazon Prime.

supposed to do, provided they’re placed into the hands of a competent

Perhaps the best reason I can think

caster. In his lifetime Lefty Kreh

of for you to buy a high-end fly rod

leased his casting arm to several

is that it allows an American artisan

TFFM’s managing editor, George Roberts, is the author of Master the Cast: Fly Casting in Seven Lessons.

rod companies, not all of which produced high-end rods. Where Lefty earned his keep with the second-tier companies is that he could pick up any fly rod and make it look like it cost a grand.

No fly rod at any price is going to magically transform you into a Lefty Kreh or a Joan Wulff any more than a Stradivarius is going to turn your middle-school violin student into Itzhak Perlman. And make no mistake: Itzhak Perlman could pick up a yard-sale fiddle and extract soulful Tchaikovsky from it.

At this point you’re probably thinking I’m trying to talk you out of buying an expensive fly rod. I’m not. In fact, there are a number of excellent reasons to buy an expensive rod—at least, the most expensive rod you can afford.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 107

BUILT FOR LIFE www.seaholmautomatic.com

ROB FORDYCE

Host: The SeaHunter

108 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

PHOTO: DAVID MANGUM