Winter, 2015
In this issue:
Peace of Mind in Koyasan Eiheiji Temple Get Ready for Hokuriku Takaoka- Kanazawa Wajima – Kaga- Fukui Maruoka - Tojinbo Ono - Kumagawajuku Tagarasu and Seafood! Amanohashidate The Izakaya Way of Life Nakazawa Sake Brewery New and Exciting in Tokyo
A Talking Travel Media Publication
Index Volume 3 Winter – 2015 2
Greetings from the Editor-in-Chief
3
Peace of Mind in Koyasan
10
Eiheiji Temple
13
Get Ready for Hokuriku
14
Takaoka - Kanazawa
19
Wajima – Kaga – Fukui
23
Maruoka – Tojinbo
26
Ono – Kumagawajuku
29
Tagarasu – Seafood
31
A Day in Amanohashidate
32
The Izakaya Way of Life
33
Nakazawa Sake Brewery, Matsuda-Machi
34
New and Exciting Things to see and do in Tokyo
38
Life at a snail’s pace in the Kuroba Gorge
Travel2Japan is a Talking Travel publication. Talking Travel’s mandate is to engage consumers in the value of travel, exploration and discovery as well as to transform travel industry professionals to become destination masters. Talking Travel publications are owned, written and published by Steve Gillick. All Rights Reserved. Protected by International and Canadian Copyright Law. Travel2Japan can be shared, forwarded, cut and pasted but not sold, resold or in any way monetized. Permission is required for the use of any and all images or content from Travel2Japan ©Steve Gillick. All photos are the property of Talking Travel© Travel2Japan - Toronto, Ontario, Canada Contact Information Steve Gillick steve@talkingtravel.ca
Front Cover
One of the 500 Statues(Gohyakuran) near the Maeda Graveyard, at Hankyuji (Temple) Takaoka
Back Cover
Stairway to the Lookout Tower, Kaga
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Matsuda-Machi (near Odawara): Toured Nakazawa Sake Brewery, and then headed into town to visit friends and family. Unazuki Onsen: Just east of Toyama, we caught the cog train to view Kurobe Gorge and enjoy a short nature walk with great vistas of the mountains. Takaoka: Full day tour to see the Great Buddha, Castle Ruins, the old houses on the main street, the Zuryuji Temple and the sea cost. Lunch featured the local specialty- Konbu Meshi Gozen (Kelp). Kanazawa: Took the loop bus to the major attractions including the Omicho Market, the Castle, Kenroku-en Garden, the Samurai District, the old Geisha District, Museums and more.
Hokuriku, Koyasan and Tokyo For my 13 th visit to Japan, I wanted to maintain the tradition of seeing and experiencing as many new places as possible. For the first time, I took the Air Canada flight to Haneda Airport. After getting my luggage and clearing Customs, I caught a Limousine Bus to the Courtyard Marriott Ginza. It was good to be back home. I still maintain that this is one of the best places to stay in the city, based on its convenient downtown Ginza location and the quality of the rooms, not to mention the friendly staff! I met Mitsuru Sasaki, my Associate Editor, and we set out to explore a new Oyster Counter in Shimbashi. The next day we started out early to visit a Sumo Stable. These are ‘training gyms” where Sumo wrestlers prepare for upcoming tournaments. Five other ‘visitors’ were already there when we arrived so we quietly took our place and took out our cameras. Actually we enjoyed it so much that we returned the next day. But we also had the opportunity to attend a Sake Tasting in Ningyocho—which is an old neighbourhood with small shops and very popular restaurants. The tasting took us around the area from one sake bar to the next and along the way, surprisingly, we met many locals who’d been to Canada.
Wajima: Morning market, great sushi restaurant, the 1000 Rice Fields and visit sake shops Kaga: Stayed at Yamashitaya Royokan Hotel…visited the local temple…very relaxing Fukui: Our base for travel to the incredible temple complex of Eiheiji, the castle-town of Mariuoka, and the unbelievable land formations at Tojinbo Kumagawajuku: An old lodging town—one street with picture perfect houses and friendly locals, on the way to Tagarasu: stayed at a B & B—discovered a secret cove, had incredible seafood. Amanohashidate: One of Japan’s 3 beauty spots. We walked the sand bar to the end and back. Koyasan: The famous temple town founded in 815. Stayed overnight at the Jimyo-in. Very rewarding experience - great vegetarian food with “Hanya-to”. Tokyo: Found the streetcar, made plastic food in Kappabashi, wandered around Oshiage neighbourhood (SkyTree), enjoyed great food.
A few more days in Tokyo allowed us to visit our old haunts—Books at Kinokunya, Clothes at Muji and Uniqlo, chatchkas at the 100 Yen store, afternoon snacks at Gin(stand-up sake), dinner on one night at Tsuzuku (a wonderful Izakaya) and at Tokudawara, a tasty one-hour stand-up seafood bar. And then it was time to explore further afield and we did so much. Here’s a quick summary. Enjoy the Read! Mitsuru Sasaki, Associate Editor, at Kongobuji Temple in Koyasan
Top: A Baku is a composite creature that eats nightmares Below L: Shi Shi (Dog-Lion) and R: Dragon. Both creatures ward off evil spirits
PEACE OF MIND IN KOYASAN
PEACE OF MIND IN KOYASAN The Baku is a mythological beast with the trunk and tusks of an elephant, the eyes of a rhinoceros, the paws of a tiger and the tail of an ox. You can find Bakus in Japanese temples amongst carvings of fierce looking dog-lions (Shi shi) and angry Dragons. It’s a frightful trilogy to behold, however the beasts are actually symbolic of good luck in the New Year. Japanese children place the image of a Baku under their pillow before they go to sleep on January 1 st with assurances that the creature will devour their nightmares and bring good luck and pleasant thoughts to start the New Year. Shishi, making ferocious snarls, ward off evil spirits and frowning, intimidating dragons bring wealth and good fortune. These horrific creatures also bring peace of mind to travellers seeking silence and mindful rejuvenation. Japan is a destination high on the list of those seeking quiet, reflection and contemplation along their global journeys. I wrote about this trend a few years ago (The Sounds of Silence )* after sitting on the highway in a huge traffic jam, turning on the radio, and enveloping my thoughts in the calm and comforting voices of Simon and Garfunkel singing the song.
Silence can be appreciated in many aspects of travel. It can be a natural setting, such as the mist rolling off fields or rising up mountains, as I witnessed during a recent train journey west in Japan’s Hokuriku region. It can be personified in the faces of statues, such as the serene gaze of the Great Buddha statues in Takaoka and Kamakura, or reflected in the sympathetic countenance of Jizo, who protect children in this world and the next, and are often found standing guard in cemeteries, shrines and temples. Silence comes alive in Japanese gardens where the symmetry of trees, rocks, bridges, lakes, streams, tea houses and lanterns evoke the spirit of ‘calm’ and has inspired writers, poets and thinkers for centuries. There are countless temples and shrines throughout the country. A ‘torii’ gate might announce the separation of the ‘holy’ world from the ‘profane’, or a simple alter offers some respite from the hectic world of schedules and routines, while a dangling white rope allows the pilgrim to ring a gong or bell to summon the local Kami, or spirit.
*travelindustrytoday.com/2011-08-08-the-sounds-of-silence::12481
The cemetery (Okuno-in): simple tombstones, elaborate corporate memorials (including one rocket ship) and hundreds of statues of Jizo, dressed in traditional red hats and capes. As this was autumn, brilliant red, orange and yellow leaves graced the pathways that led to The Great Forest of Japanese Cedar, a collection of towering trees, some 600 years old and 165 feet high, standing guard over the green moss-covered Japanese lanterns and headstones below. Below: the Banryutei Garden in Kongobuji Temple. Protective dragons emerge from a sea of clouds to protect Kobo Daishi on his ascent to eternal meditation.
Koyasan has long been a legendary “must see” for back packers as well as over one million pilgrims each year. The name is an honorific and refers to Mount Koya in Wakayama prefecture where Kobo Daishi (Saint Kukai) established a monastic retreat in 815 (2015 is the 1200 th anniversary). Today, there are 123 temples; many offer lodgings…all offer encounters with serenity.
And then there is Koyasan… Travellers arrive on the 90 minute train from Osaka and then transfer to a cable car for the ascent to the 3000 foot level. Local buses depart regularly for the 10 minute drive into town. It was a bit of a daunting task to find the ‘right’ temple lodging. Using both English and Japanese traveller-reports and reviews, we chose the Jimyo-in, very close to the centre of town, and we were more than pleased with
the decision. On arrival one of the monks greeted us, showed us where to leave our shoes, explained about the meals and the 6:00 am prayer service, and then led us down a long, twisting corridor to our room. It was filled with antiques and drawings, and overlooked our very own private Zen garden. The two main streets and most of the side streets in Koyasan lead to temples. Some offer lodgings, others are strictly for worship. And under the roofs amongst the intricate designs you can find Baku and Shishi and Dragons. Many temples also display the two Nio guardian statues: tall, scary scowling gods, one with mouth open (Angyo) symbolizing birth and the beginning of all things, and the other, with mouth closed (Ungyo) signifying death and the end of all things. Their chilling expressions are meant to ward off evil and protect all who enter the temple grounds.
The meditation garden at the Jimyo-in
Scenes from the Okuno-in (Cemetery) in Koyasan
Several hundred photos and innumerable introspections later, we departed for Kongobuji, the main temple complex and the site of Kobo Daishi’s original Retreat. The calming, but dramatic rock garden (Banryutei) is one of the largest in Japan and represents, through the raked sand and strategic rock placements, a male and female dragon emerging from a sea of clouds to protect Daishi on his ascent to ‘eternal meditation’. Other major attractions in Koyasan include the elaborately ornate mausoleums commemorating the great Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa (the founder of the dynasty that lasted from 1608 to 1863) and his son, Hidetada. Nearby, the Reihokan Museum contains a priceless collection of religious treasures, many of which are designated as cultural assets. Back at our lodging, we enjoyed an incredibly delectable vegetarian meal. Dishes included grilled tofu with miso, bamboo shoots and shitake mushroom with dry tofu, grilled fresh mountain vegetables, delicately battered vegetable tempura, velvety smooth sesame tofu (one of the specialties of Koyasan), along with tasty miso soup and fresh steamed rice. When we were asked about beverages we joked about ordering sake. And with a sincere glint in his eye our server explained that Sake (the alcoholic drink) was not allowed in the temple, but Hanya-to (a.k.a sake (the alcoholic drink)) was allowed. ‘Hanya-to’ literally refers to “attaining the supreme wisdom of Buddhism”. In this case the Hanya-to certainly contributed to the success of our reflective, meditative journey to Koyasan.
The Travel Niche of Solitude Embracing the trend of ‘silent travel’ can fulfill our individual needs for escapism and regeneration of the mind and spirit. The New Year is a perfect ‘excuse’ to evaluate, and then resolve those travel dreams and wishes. Imagine yourself in a world of fantasy with mythical benevolent creatures, eye-catching scenery and free reign to spend as much time as you want, just gazing, contemplating, daydreaming, hiking, sporting, experiencing, and spending time with loved ones. Travel makes it all possible.
Above: We enjoyed a delicious meals at the Jimyo-in that included grilled tofu, dry tofu, sesame tofu and fresh mountain vegetables. Our room was decorated with beautiful prints and antiques and overlooked a Zen garden.
Eiheihi Temple Sounds of Zen
On a day trip from Fukui, we took the train east to Eihei-ji: The Temple of Eternal Peace. The Sotto Zen Buddhist Temple was founded in the 13th Century by Eihei Dogon. The mood of tranquility is established as soon as you enter the grounds: incredible tall cedar and pine trees, sympathetic Jizo statues (protectors of children, mothers and travellers), a small waterfall and the temple cemetery. Afterward you can tour the main hall. Walk the long wooden corridors, visit Sanshokaku-the reception hall, a 156 tatami room with a beautifully painted ceiling filled with 230 paintings of birds and flowers, by 144 Japanese artists. Still used as a training facility for up to 250 priests and nuns, a visit to Eiheiji is a contemplative experience that tends to soothe the soul.
Above: Green moss-covered statues commemorate lives and bring peace in the cemetery. The gold Buddha rests in the main hall sanctuary. s
The move toward meditative travel entails contemplation, thought, daydreams, getting lost in history and in your imagination. Many travellers yearn for these silent aspirations. Below top row: A Drawing of Daruma, the founder of the Zen sect of Buddhism; a memorial pyramid in the cemetery and the bell tower. Second Row: some of the paintings on the ceiling of the Reception Hall.
Ishidoro—Japanese Lanterns—represent the teachings of the Buddha and the light that helps overcome the darkness of ignorance
Getting Ready for Hokuriku: North Western Japan Beckons with a Bullet Hokuriku, meaning ‘northlands’, is the coastal region of Japan that stretches from Niigata through to Kanazawa, up to Wajima and then south to Fukui. Our first stop was the small resort town of Unazuki Onsen just east of Toyama, where we boarded a cog train to travel along the edge of Kurobe Gorge. We were treated to a showcase of mountains, trees and beautiful vistas. We disembarked a Sarutobikyo Gorge, the last of four stops, and wandered past small onsens (hot springs) and along pathways that passed under huge, scary, rocky outcroppings where signs warned that visitors were basically on their own if the cracking rocks decided to give way while they strolled beneath.
Maeda Toshinaga built Takaoka Castle in 1609. He’s wearing the “catfish helmet”, typical of his clan
In Takaoka, we were treated to a full day tour by the tourism department. This included one of the three ‘Great Buddhas’ of Japan, a walk around Castle Park, a stroll through Yamacho—the commercial district with its historic eight-shuttered windowhouses, a chat with an iron-tea pot artisan in the Kanamachi district, and a special behind-the-scenes look at some of the gigantic floats used in the Mikurumayama Festival that takes place in May. After a scrumptious multi-course kelp feast at Kakinosho Restaurant we visited Zuiryu-ji Temple (designated a national treasure) and completed our day with a drive to the coast to see the raging waters of the Sea of Japan and glimpse the mountains that form a backdrop to one of the star visual attractions in all of Hokuriku.
Photo Key for Following Page Top: The Great Buddha of Takaoka 1st Row L to R: Misshaku Kongo Anyozo—Temple Statue with mouth open, representing the birth or beginning of all things; Nobita—popular cartoon character in the Doraemon series. All the character statues may be found next to the city train station; A dragon guarding the purification fountain near The Great Buddha; Naraen Kongo Unyozo, Temple statue with mouth closed, signifying the end or death of all things. 2nd Row L to R: Close up of the head of a statue representing Good Luck, in Zuryuji (Temple); Another representation of Unyozo outside the Zurju-ji (Temple); Two of the 500 Statues (Gohyakuran) near the Maeda Graveyard on the grounds of the Hankyuji Temple, Takaoka 3rd Row L to R: 4 of the 500 protective statues
Takaoka
In the Iron Tea Pot Shop on Metal Worker’s’ Street
Decorative wheel on one of the Mikurumayama Festival floats
Part of the Zuryuji Temple Complex
Amharashi Coast just north of Takaoka. On a clear day the Tatayama Mountains can be seen, dramatically gracing the horizon.
Yumesake Izakaya
Taichi, the owner and chef at Yumesake Izakaya
Fried White Shrimp—a local specialty
Kanazawa, the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture is a great city to explore. A loop bus stops at all the major areas of interest: samurai houses, the old geisha district, the vast grounds of Kanazawa Castle, the beauty and symmetry of the nearby castle garden (a must for horticulture lovers) and the contemporary art museum. And any visit will be enhanced with a trip to the centrally located Omicho market to buy fishcakes, grilled fish and eel, raw scallops, mackerel sashimi, fat oysters, succulent crab and local vegetables. We bought little samples of lots of seafood, complete with sake (of course) for an inexpensive picnic dinner in our room at the Nikko Hotel. The hotel is directly across the road from Kanazawa Railway Station with its famous Tsuzumi (drum) Gate.
Kanazawa’s Omicho Market is a great place for the culinary curious. Left: Buri Sashimi Centre: Matsutake mushrooms Right: Scallops. We bought ultra-fresh seafood delicacies and veggies and brought them to our hotel room for a gourmet picnic.
Left: The Nagamachi Samurai District Middle: Simple calligraphy that evokes “truth” with Ikebana Right: Kanazawa Castle
Left: A scene from the Kenrokuen Garden, known as the most beautiful feudal lord gardens (the Maeda Clan) in the country. The name means “having six factors” that bring out the perfect landscape of the garden: spaciousness, tranquility, artifice, anti quity, water courses and magnificent views.(Kanazawa-tourism.com) Middle: The Higashi Chaya District: The old Geisha area of the city. Right: There’s always time to try a new Izakaya. Maasantei is in the downtown area with very tasty food!
Hiyoshi Sake Brewery in Wajima. L-The store mascot is a Rakugo (Story Teller) R-The all-important sampling. We bought some!
Heading north to Wajima, we enjoyed one of those Seinfeld-esque episodes where the main activity was based on doing ‘nothing’. Nothing but strolling, eating, saying hello to the locals, visiting the temple, looking at the sea and appreciating another side of Japan. For dinner we had incredibly fresh sushi at Sukezushi. The next morning we took the local bus to the 1000 rice fields--beautiful wind-swept terraces extending down to the sea. And then back in town we wandered and photographed our way through the morning market, stopping to savour grilled squid, sample sake (at 8:00 am), munch crunchy pickles and chat with the vendors. It’s amazing how many had been to Niagara Falls!
Top Left: representation of a demon on the roof-end of the local temple-with mouth open to bring in good spirits and at the same time, keeping bad spirits away. Top Right: Sushi-fresh and expertly prepared at Zukisushi. Bottom Left: The owner’s son chopping daikon to garnish sashimi dishes Bottom Right: Father and Son.
The “1000 Rice Fields� just outside of Wajima
The raging Sea of Japan by the Rice Fields
Sunshine on the rice terraces
Strolling around the Morning Market Left: Fish marinated in Miso Right: Mitsuru Sasaki (Associate Editor) shopping for Echizengani fresh, sweet snow crab, to send home to the family in Ugawara.
Daruma Dolls, bought at the morning market, are symbols of perseverance and good luck
The next generation of intrepid travellers take a networking break during an outing in Wajima
A local train took us to Kaga, where we checked into the Yamashitaya a Ryokan hotel with beautiful, large Japanesestyle rooms (you sleep under comfy futons on the tatami mats on the floor). We spent time soaking in the roof top hot baths (onsens)–both indoors and outdoors--so relaxing and soothing. A buffet dinner featuring fresh crab was a delicious way to end the day—but not before another soak on the roof. The next morning we were up very early to enjoy the onsen. Then, after a ‘bountiful’ breakfast, we explored the local temple around the corner from the hotel and then, a short walk away, we toured one of the Kutani Porcelain factories and watched an artist in action.
Demonstrating some of the delicate artistry used in Kutani
The historic Kutani Kiln could fire 1000 pieces at the same time
Yamashitaya Ryokan Hotel
(L) Sake cup (now part of our collection) and (R) a design treasure
Wooden plaques (Ema) and fortune telling papers (Omikuji) bring good fortune.
The Kaga Kannon (Goddess of Compassion) is 240 feet high
Mitsuru Sasaki demonstrates the proper etiquette for finishing a bowl of soba. Slurping is mandatory.
In Fukui we stayed at the Route Inn, a fairly basic business hotel located next to the train station in the downtown area. We explored the castle ruins and then sauntered around the historic and celebrated Yokokan Garden with its pictureqsue teahouse and Koi pond. For dinner we ate Akiyoshi Yakatori, a very crowded, noisy, fun, friendly chain restaurant that serves pretty good yakitori—and is literally across the street from the hotel.
th
Fukui City’s Yokokan Garden was the home of the Matsudaira Clan in the 17 century. The website fuku-e.com notes that “The graceful shoin-style building and the magnificent garden are great examples of Edo Period garden architecture”. It goes on to note “the affinity between the building and the water, the beauty of its irrigation, and the view of the pond from inside the building”.
To the northeast of Fukui, in the town of Maruoka you will find a beautiful wooden castle on a hill with a commanding view of the valley below. The central tower, built in 1576 still remains. Inside the castle you can use a rope to climb the ‘steep samurai staircase’, originally designed to prevent invaders from storming the upper levels.
And then there is Tojinbo…
And then there is Tojinbo, a series of basalt cliffs formed by volcanic action 12 million years ago. Visitors can scamper over the totally awesome rocks and cliff formations. (Those familiar with Ireland’s Giant’s Causeway will love this). The views of the nearby cliffs, the craggy rocks and the crashing waters of the Sea of Japan are spectacular, to say the least. Even on crowd ed weekends you can always find a quiet nook for private introspection and reflection on the scenery. And of course there are the usual amenities for the souvenir, grilled seafood, don’t feed the hawks…crowd.
That evening, back in Fukui, we ate at Akiyoshi Yakitori—good food and a fun, loud, friendly atmosphere.
Saying farewell to Fukui, we took a local train to Ono. While we are used to students taking the trains to get to school, this particular train served mostly as a ‘catch up on your sleep’ journey. In Ono we wandered around the morning market— not a lot of vendors but the one’s we spoke to were quite friendly and animated. Then we strolled to Echizen Ono Castle-considered to be the oldest castle in Japan with a history dating to the year 660 when the hilltop near the political centre of Daizaifu was fortified. The castle itself was built in 1580, destroyed by fire in 1775 and rebuilt 320 years later, and then demolished by the Meiji government in the late 19th Century. It was partially rebuilt in 1968.
Top: L: Vendor selling Akebi Fruit Bottom: Nambu Sake Brewery sign
C: Echizen Ono Castle R: Making Chile Pepper Chains in the morning market C: Old Invoices and bottles for Sake R: Manatsuru Sake Brewery
R: Protecting the area—the view from the tower of Ono Castle.
L: Explanation of the parts of Samurai armour
Yokokan Garden, Tea ceremony, Fukui
We departed Fukui, on our way to the Obama area. At the Wakasa train station, we rented bicycles to visit Kumagawajuku, a village created in 1589 to serve as an accommodation hub for those making the journey to Kyoto. Many of the old buildings are a photographer’s delight. At one home we met Yasuhide Ogino who proudly told us that he was the 12th generation to inhabit the property. The current house built in 1811 graces many posters advertising the summer festival.
Tagarasu Our last stop in the Hokuriku Region was just outside of Obama City. And Tagarasu is a simple, quiet fishing village where there is blissfully, ‘nothing to do’ …except revel in the scenery and the seafood. We stayed at Hamanoya – a bed and breakfast operated by Tadazumi and Kanae Hamaya. We spent the entire afternoon at the port where we watched the noisy gulls, the swooping hawks and a heron who was very focussed on catching his dinner. As we explored further we met a friendly cat who insisted on adopting us. Eventually we made our way to a small shrine at the base of a lighthouse, just a short walk along the mountain road. There, we discovered a dramatic lava-formed cove with clear aquamarine waters and brilliant green spruce trees, all under a deep blue sky. We
stayed there a long time, in silence, just listening to what the lapping waters had to tell us. We returned to the B & B in the late afternoon, had a hot bath, and then enjoyed a seafood dinner to rival all other seafood dinners. Tender aji (mackerel) sashimi, sweet shrimp with blue eggs, delicious squid, succulent sea shell with soy sauce, boiled horse-face fish, steamed crab, perfectly battered seafood and vegetable tempura, aromatic miso soup, steamed rice, sake and tea. It was a memorable feast, absolutely delicious…and we ate it all.
The Dinner at Hamanoya B&B in Tagarasu was phenomenal. Fresh food, caught that morning featured: Top Row L -R: Marinated octopus with cucumber, boiled crab, file fish with fish liver. Bottom Row L-R: Grilled Turban Shell, Aji sashimi with sweet shrimp, squid and turban shell sashimi, and Kawahagi--boiled horse face fish in special sauce.
Above: Some of the wildlife we met around the village: A flirting cat, a flying hawk, a determined Grey Heron and a hawk at rest. To the left are the owners of Hamanoya B & B in Tagarasu. Tadazumi and Kanae Hamaya. On our last day, after a great (big) breakfast, Tadazumi drove us to the train station in Obama and told us about his life as a fisherman, his travels outside of Japan, and suggested that next time we could get up early in the morning with him to help catch our meals from the sea. We have every intention of doing so!
Amanohashidate: Known as one of Japan’s three scenic views. The 3.3 Km sand bar covered by 7000 pine trees, stretches across Miyazu Bay. Chionji Temple (above) contains a statue of the Buddhist god of wisdom and intellect and attracts students praying for academic success. Many leave fan shaped fortune wishes (omikuji) hanging from the pine trees. Below: One of the temple paintings portrays life in hell, to ‘remind’ visitors to live virtuous and respectful lives.
Continuing to Celebrate The Izakaya Way of Life 1 Gin is a standing sake bar in Shimbashi. Great selection of sakes as well as snacks (see also #8) 2 The Chef at Tokudawara in Kita Senju, a standing seafood bar with a one-hour time limit 3 Lunch at Shibata Wasuke in Kappabashi and 4 The sashimi platter at Tsuzuku— one of my favourite Izakayas in Tokyo—consistently delicious. 5 The traditional way to end the meal at Tsuzuku is to savour the Wasabi Meshi—but beware of that freshly grated wasabi. 6 We tried the Hoya (Sea Squirt) at Tokudawara and 7 then had 54 minutes to order more great food before our hour was up. 8 Relaxing at “Gin” with sake and Shime Saba. 9 Sake Tasting Events 1
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Nakazawa Sake Brewery in Matsuda-Machi, near Odawara is a family affair with Shigera Kadiwada serving as Master Sake Brewer. The Sugitama (ball make of cedar boughs) is the identifying symbol of sake breweries. Some regard this as a ‘timer” as the ball is freshened each year with green boughs (in November) and when they turn brown (in March) it’s time to drink the sake. We had a tour of the facility where we saw the stages of production, learned about the staff (the oldest is 73, the youngest is 50) and then tasted (and bought) some of the finished product.
What’s new in Tokyo? After 12 visits to the city you’d think there was not much left to see, do, explore and taste, but we found lots of new things. But we also had a chance to enjoy some of our favourite places. Here’s a visual sampling.
The Courtyard by Marriott Ginza—a great place to stay in Tokyo. It allows us to walk everywhere…10 minutes to the Tsukiji Fish Market, 10 minutes to the Kabuki Theatre, 5 minutes to the subway, convenience stores down the street. Comfy rooms, good buffet breakfast and friendly, helpful staff.
I live in Toronto so I take streetcars for granted. But we discovered that Tokyo has streetcars too! You board at Minowabashi Station and can travel 12.2 Km along a residential route. It’s a relaxing ride and of course you can get off whenever the mood …or scenery strikes.
Hard to believe that I’ve never been to Tokyo during Sumo Wrestling season. But in 2014 we were fortunate to visit a Sumo Stable to see the wrestlers training. We sat mesmerized for an hour and then returned the next morning to snap more photos.
Above: Sake Tasting in Ningyocho…a neighbourhood event
Sake labels: colourful, artistic and collectible
Sake cups for sale at the tasting in Nihombashi
Above: The Kirakiratachibana Shotengai Market near the “SkyTree” neighbourhood of Oshiage Below: Kappabashi—just about any culinary supply can be purchased-including plastic food-which you can make yourself!
A traditional Soba Noodle Restaurant sign
Walking closer to Asakusa—Samurai are climbing the walls. Can you guess what the shop is selling?
Above: A Samurai announces a Kubuki performance Below: Out for a stroll with the pet pig
The Oshiage area is the home of the 634m Tokyo SkyTree. You can get some great views of the tower—and at the same time discover the neighbourhood by wandering down the side streets.
Sengakuji The Revenge of the 47 Ronin is a true historical tale based on the importance of bushido—the samurai code of honour. A group of Samurai were left leaderless (Ronin) after their Feudal Lord had to commit suppuku (ritual suicide) after he had assaulted a court official. The Ronin took revenge by killing the court official, but then they in turn had to commit seppuku for having committed murder. All the Ronin are buried in the graveyard beside the temple, Sengakuji. A festival is held on December 14th to commemorate the event.
A snail exploring the pathway along the Kurobe Gorge, just west of Unazuki Onsen. We took the cog train to the last station, Kayakidaira, where we walked along the path, under huge boulders, and past vistas of cloudy mountains and the river far below, to find this fellow, placidly doing what snails do best.
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