Fine Foodies winter issue by Target Publishing

Fine Foodies WINTER 2012

Passionate about good food Picrkfurp ee you ie fooadzine mag

INTERVIEW

The baker boy JOHN WHAITE ON LIFE AS THE GREAT BRITISH BAKE-OFF CHAMPION

Plus:

WINTER 2012

 PLANNING YOUR FESTIVE FEAST  A TOUR THROUGH JAPAN  A FLAVOUR OF FUN

Three’s company HUGH FEARNLEYWHITTINGSTALL S NEW APPROACH TO COOKING

Welcome

Fine Foodies Passionate about good food

Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Essex CM22 6HJ Telephone: 01279 816300 www.finefoodiesmag.com Editor: Rachel Symonds e: editor@finefoodiesmag.com t: 01279 810088 Contributors: Jennifer Britt, Jane Baxter, Reiko Hara Group Commercial Manager: Ruth Gilmour e: ruth.gilmour@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810084 Senior Sales Executive: James Kirk e: james.kirk@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810068 Production Daniella Randazzo e: daniella.randazzo@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810097 Design Clare Holland e: clare.holland@targetpublishing.com Administration/Distribution Amy Robinson e: amy.robinson@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810072 Accounts Lorraine Evans e: lorraine.evans@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 816300 Managing Director David Cann e: info@targetpublishing.com

ISSN 2046-438X

t s incredible to think almost another year has passed and here we are in full swing of preparations for Christmas and all the excitement that comes with it. The traditional festive feast takes some planning and for many of us, this starts weeks, if not months before the big day. Many families have their own special traditions when it comes to their Christmas menu, and this is something we explore in our special festive fare feature on page 20. Jennifer Britt delves into some of the UK s leading artisan food producers and finds out just what makes their Christmas tick. She also offers some ideas on how you could do things a little differently. And let s not forget what the UK has to offer when it comes to locally grown foods at this time of year. There s a huge amount of sumptuous produce in season right now that you could introduce into your Christmas eating, with the added bonus that it has not been flown thousands of miles to reach us. Turn to page 24 where Riverford offers some inspiration on seasonal foods for the winter months. And then it s over to you, our readers; what will be on your Christmas menu this year? Do you do things a little differently and if so, how? We d love to hear from you, so why not drop me an email at editor@finefoodiesmag.com You can also turn to page 12 to read our interview with the recently crowned champion of BBC s Great British Bake-off. John Whaite chatted to me all about his love for baking, where his inspiration comes from and his desire to see people gain some confidence in the kitchen. Finally, the whole team at Fine Foodies would like to wish all our readers a wonderful Christmas and a happy New Year. And remember, if you miss an issue of the magazine, log onto www.finefoodiesmag.com, where you can view the latest edition, as well as enter our competitions to win some of the best foodie products.

Rachel

RACHEL SYMONDS

Published by Target Publishing Limited. Printed in the UK by The Magazine Printing Company plc www.magprint.co.uk ÂŠ2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material in accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004.

WINTER 2012 FINE FOODIES

Fine Foodies

Contents Cover image courtesy of Alexandra Holt Photography

Passionate about good food

COvEr StOry

James Whaite – on winning the Great British Bake-off, learning from Mary Berry and his ambition to inject confidence into people’s baking

The perfect potato The experts at Corkers reveal there’s a lot more to the humble potato than meets the eye

FEaturES

rEgularS

Recipes Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall reveals a selection of new recipes, made using three simple ingredients

Recipes Add a Malaysian flavour to your palate with the help of Australian TV chef, Billy Law

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

Global foodie Reiko Hara discovers how the Japanese warm up in winter with their versatile cuisine

Food Focus Festive fare – Jennifer Britt gets to the heart of the UK’s finest artisan producers to discover what is on their Christmas menu

WINTER 2012

8 10 16

36 32

Foodie bites Latest news from the world of fine food Shelf life Explore the latest products in store

UK fare Fine Foodies explores all that Northumberland has to offer

In season What’s ideal for eating and cooking with at this time of year? Riverford Organic tells all

20 40

Drink up From wines and cocktail ideas to the newest hot drinks

Fine Foodie hero Roy Anderton-Tyers

Letters

Your foodies Fine Food ies

Fine Food ies

Issue.6 January/February Vol.1 2012

Passionat

fter a great response from our reader survey, this issue s letter s page features some comments from our readers. As ever, if you have any comments, email me at editor@ finefoodiesmag.com and you could see yourself the winner of the next issue s star letter prize.

READER PRAISE

Pick up your free foodie magazine

AUTUMN 2012

Passionat

e about good foo d

e about good foo d Pick up your free foodie magazine

INTERVIEW

The Fisherman’s apprentice

INTERVIEW

Gregg’s the word

MONTY HALLS MISSION TO SAFON HIS THE UK S FISH EGUARD ING HERITAGE

THE MASTERC HEF HIS MISSION TO STAR ON NATION TO RAP SWITCH THE ESEED OIL

Plus:

] INDIAN FOOD CULTURE ] WARMING WINT ] MICHELIN STAR ER RECIPES 2012

S EXPLAINED UK fare

COVER.indd

 SOUTH AMERICA  INDULGENT TREAN FLAVOURS  ON THE ROAD TS TO GERMANY

AUTUMN 2012

Explore the be st of

Northumberla nd

Fine Foodies asked the twitter world what they were having for dinner...

Plus:

Sustainable catch HOW

TO SOU FISH ETHICALL RCE Y AND SUSTAINABLY

January/February

Sta Letterr

TWEET CORNER

cover autumn.indd

Just desserts

MOUTH-WATER DISHES TO SATISING ANY SWEET TOOTFY H

16/12/11 13:44:43

22/08/2012

To the roots

Fine Foodies is a high quality, informative and visually attractive publication.

he nights may be drawing in, but there are plenty of seasonal vegetables around to throw into warming winter dishes and keep the spirits up.

Roots are at their best, whether freshly dug, such as parsnips, swede and root artichokes or from the store, such as potatoes and carrots. Organic grower Riverford finds its carrots taste better if dug

JUDY NUTTING, GLOUCESTER

Ribollita

England most northern count y has plenty to to food and drink. whet the

oasting stunning scenery and dramatic coastlines, Northumberland attracts vast swathes of visitors each year, keen to take in all this county has to offer. But that’s not where the allure of Northumberland – England’s most northern county – ends. In the same way there’s a rich diversity of landscapes here, so too is the county’s food offering.

My first read, all very interesting and new products to look for ‒ very good.

Northumberla nd explored

The county has

TRUDY RUSHTON, SKEGNESS

some stunning

FINE FOODIES

scenery,

WINTER 2012

none more so than the Northumb erland Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, which is home to waders, geese and ducks who feed off the mud flats. Then there is Northumb erland National Park, which covers around one quarter of a million acres of protected landscape . It begins at the World Heritage Site of Hadrian’s Wall and runs through the rivers North Tyne, Rede, Coquet and Beamish to the Cheviot Hills. Visit the coast in winter and you may see grey seals, or you could take to the Northumberland Coast Path, part of the North Sea Trail, which is a 64 mile

12:54

In season

in the autumn and barn-store d. And parsnips are sweeter after the first frost, which converts the starch to sugar, improving the best flavour and flavour. carefully picked by hand. Hardy greens If you’re fed up such as Savoy with soggy boiled cabbage and kale also come sprouts, try roasting into their own, or stir frying them and are also at their best after so they keep their being exposed crunch. Riverford to some frost. And, of course, sometimes harvests it’s time to look the whole sprout out for love-them-or-hate-th stalk for their vegbox em Brussels sprouts. customers – partly Riverford’s sprouts because it helps are grown slowly them last longer for the and partly because they look so fantastic.

Serves 4 You could use a head of Savoy cabbage for this, made over a couple although cavolo of days, starting nero is the traditional as a hearty soup, (‘ribollita’) and component of drizzled with olive then layered with this Tuscan dish. oil. This is a quicker leftovers the next It was originally day with day-old version. Ingredients: bread. The soup is then reboiled • 400g tin cannellini • 1 large bunch or other white cavolo nero (approx beans, rinsed and drained 300g), leaves stripped Method: from their stalks • 3tbsp olive oil and shredded • Lightly mash the beans with • 2 onions, finely a fork or • 1l hot veg stock potato masher sliced until slightly puréed • 3 cloves garlic, but • 400g tin chopped with some still finely chopped whole. tomatoes • 4 carrots, peeled • Heat the olive • 4 sage leaves, and diced oil in a large saucepan shredded • 4 stalks of celery, and cook the onions • 4 slices day old diced gently for 10 minutes sourdough bread, • 4 sage leaves, without browning, toasted (use gluten free shredded until soft. Add bread if required) the garlic and cook for another • 2 large potatoes, • Sea salt and ground peeled and diced minute or two. black pepper Add the carrots, celery, • Extra virgin olive potatoes, kale, stock, oil for drizzling tomatoes and sage. Season with salt and pepper. • Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and for 20 minutes, cook until the potatoes are cooked. Add the beans and kale. Simmer for another five minutes to thicken the soup and wilt the kale. • Lay the toasted bread in four bowls. Check the seasoning then pour over the bread. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil to serve.

tastebuds when it comes continuous coastal walking route. Then there is the beach at Bamburgh Castle, which was voted one of Britain’s favourite views in an ITV1 programme. And that’s just a small flavour of what the area has to offer.

Culinary traditi ons

As with many of the UK’s counties, Northumberland has a rich history when it comes to its culinary traditions and has a heritage that is very varied. Starting with fish, Northumberland has wonderful salmon rivers in both the north and south of the county, and is known to

Great magazine. SANDY LISTER. CULLAMPTON

FINE FOODIES

WINTER 2012

Love it!

THE JAMMY COW @THEJAMMYCOW

Toad in the hole and onion gravy. SEAN KELLY @MARRIOTTEUCHEF

Rump of Lancashire lamb, creamed garlic mushrooms and fries. Great bar food. DENISE BAKERMCCLEARN @MOELFABANSSC

RONNIE OUSBY, WIGTON

Star letter – could it be you?

Do you have something that you d like to share with other readers, something that will inspire them, encourage them to visit their local store or is just good news? We d love to hear from you. And, of course, we d also like your comments about the magazine. The winner of the star letter prize will receive a chocolate lover s dream, a 400g box of luxury chocolates from premium British chocolatier, House of Dorchester. This exquisite collection comprises an indulgent assortment of milk, 70 per cent dark and white chocolates and a choice of decadent centres. House of Dorchester chocolates are beautifully crafted using artisan skills. All of the centres are hand made at the company s Dorset factory and many are also hand decorated using traditional hand finishing techniques.

Write to: Rachel Symonds, Editor, Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ or email editor@finefoodiesmag.com

Today is all about pumpkin and chilli soup, chocolate beetroot brownies and some jam. SABRINA GHAYOUR @SABRINAGHAYOUR

White bean and truffle soup shots, giant prawns in lemon zest, garlic and chilli. PHILIP EVANS @FILIPEVANS

Lemon Sole Florentine.

READER OFFERS Please indicate below which free giveaway you are applying for and then post this form back to us at Reader Offers , Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ.

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FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

News update

Foodie bites Big names lead line-up for food festival

A stellar line-up of top chefs are confirmed to appear at this year’s Padstow Christmas Festival. Popular chef and author Rick Stein will be joined by his son Jack, along with awardwinning chef Brian Turner CBE, TV chef Phil Vickery, Michelin starred Angela Hartnett and restaurateur and food writer Mark Hix. The three-day event, which kicks off on December 7 and is set around the picturesque harbour, features entertainment, live music and festive food. The festivities continue into the evening with a lantern parade, firework display and late night shopping. There will be a series of food forums, where some of the country’s leading industry professionals will debate food issues in front of a live audience. Originally the idea of Padstow resident chef Rick, the forums include topics such as the price of milk, pop-up restaurants and women in hospitality. “The food forums always create lively debate. I am particularly looking forward to joining Brian Turner to discuss the real price of milk, which hit the headlines earlier this year,” Rick said. • For more information visit www.padstowchristmasfestival.co.uk.

Fair Game

The Countryside Alliance is encouraging Brits to add game to their palate. Game-to-Eat is a promotional campaign featuring the first ever Go Wild with British Game month. The dedicated month will see over 50 official events take place across the country. Many butchers, pubs and restaurants are actively promoting game with special game feasts and menus, cookery classes, demonstrations, tastings and distribution of recipe leaflets. Michelin-starred Chef, Tom Kitchin, says: “Cooking game is an art and although mastering all of the techniques, procedures and skills required is challenging, it is so incredibly rewarding.” • Find out more at www.gametoeat.co.uk

Yorkshire’s finest

Get seasonal savvy

With rising food prices leaving many of us feeling he pinch, it’s never been a better idea to shop seasonally. By buying fresh, seasonal British produce, you are not only saving yourself money but also making an environmental contribution by not buying products that have been flown thousands of miles. The new British leek season began in November and runs right through to April, and there’s now a new range of recipes to inspire you to cook with this vegetable. Created by Jane Hornby, author of Good Food: Budget Dishes, recipes include spiced leek, potato and lentil soup, leek, chorizo and goats cheese tortilla and bacon wrapped chicken with leeks, peas and basil. • Find out more at www.british-leeks.co.uk

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

Yorkshire has proved it packs a punch when it comes to food and drink. A record-breaking number of food and drink brands were given accolades in the deliciouslyorkshire Awards 2012. The coveted deliciouslyorkshire Supreme Product was won by St Helen’s Farm, York, for its Goat’s Butter, and Best Newcomer was won by Staal Smokehouse, of Long Riston, which also triumphed in the Best Fish and Seafish category with its Hot Smoked Salmon. Cedarbarn Farm Shop won the Best Ready to Eat accolade for its Aberdeen Angus Stew with Wold Top Beer and Dumplings, while Keelham Farm Shop in Thornton, West Yorkshire, won the category of Best Retailer of Local Products – Innovate Better.

Deli delight

A brand new deli has opened its doors. Broadcaster and writer Sally Magnusson officially opened Billington’s Deli & Ice Cream, in Lenzie, which is the Scottish town’s first artisan food and drink outlet. Locals Mark and Sue Billington’s new delicatessen specialises in artisan and locally sourced products with an extensive deli counter featuring homemade meats and a selection of quality products sourced from all over the world. The centrepiece of the new outlet, though, is Billington’s Ice Cream, hand-mixed on a cold marble slab, where customers can choose their favourite added ingredients, from fresh berries to home-made tablet. Mark said: “We offer home-cooked produce – from the meat we slice to the quiches we make to the cakes we bake – most items will be homemade by my wife Sue and our staff. The idea is that customers can choose from our selection of fresh breads and their favoured fillings fresh from our deli counter.”

Newmarket SauSage SecureS protected StatuS The Newmarket Sausage has become the 50th British food product to earn European recognition for their quality, history, and links to the local area. The Suffolk-created sausage can now carry a badge declaring its Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, joining other food products such as Cornish Pasties, Parma Ham and Champagne. The sausages, which were traditionally enjoyed by race-goers at the historic Newmarket course, have been made in the area since the 1880s. Queen Victoria was said to enjoy them and was the first member of the Royal Family to issue the sausages with a warrant, which continues to this day.

Food and Farming Minister, David Heath, said: “Not only are PGIs important for keeping traditional foods and recipes alive, they also make a significant contribution to the local and national economy. The recipe for the Newmarket sausage is unchanged since the days of Queen Victoria and the original recipe has been passed down the generations. This is yet another example of the quality of British foods and we can be justly proud of the position of our produce in the international market.”

BEsT of BRITIsh Celebrity chef Valentine Warner has added his support to a new campaign to encourage the nation to buy British trout. Valentine has created three trout dishes; using whole, filleted and smoked trout, he demonstrates the versatility of this farmed British fish, as well as showcasing both the flavour and quality of the product. In one dish, Valentine gives a classic family favourite a tasty new twist, using hot smoked trout for a bold flavour in his Smoked trout fishcake. Then there is flavours of the

ChoColaTE ChampIoNs

British chocolatiers have proved they are among the best around the globe. A number of Brits picked up accolades at the World Finals of the International Chocolate Awards, including Paul a Young and Damian Allsop, who both beat off stiff competition from top chocolatiers from around the world. More than 600 products were entered into the country rounds held in Italy, the UK, USA and Vancouver

Far East married with British trout in a vibrant dish of steamed whole trout with ginger and enoki mushrooms. British trout is a widely available and affordable fish that is quick and easy to cook. An oily fish, it has a wide range of health benefits, including being a source of vitamins A and D, selenium, and omega-3 fatty acids. Trout is farmed across the UK, ensuring that this sustainable fish is readily available all year round. • The recipes can be found at www.britishtrout.co.uk

throughout the year, with 102 products making it through to the world final to be re-judged by the grand jury. Just one gold in each category is awarded, along with a number of silvers. Paul triumphed in the Plain Dark Truffle category, winning gold for his 85 per cent RAW Ecuadorian dark chocolate truffle, while Damian’s Madagascan water ganache and Rococo Chocolates’ Madagascan house truffle both won silvers. Paul also won Best Dark caramel for his Sea Salted Caramel.

Reader offer

Fine Foodies has teamed up with Field Fare to offer readers the chance to win one of three hampers of frozen ready meals and savouries showcasing a few of its lines, including Coquilles St Jacques, Chicken en Croute, Steak & Kidney Suet Puddings and Asparagus and Gruyere Crowns. These and many more high quality frozen foods are available from farm shops throughout the UK. See page 6 for details.

WINTER 2012 FINE FOODIES

Product news

Shelf Life What’s neW in the World of great-tasting food Warm uP WIth tIDEFOrD If you’re looking for some winter warmers, the new range of soups from Tideford Organics may be just the thing. The award-winning producer has introduced the new soups, along with new sauces and porridges, all of which are gluten free, low salt, low fat, vegetarian and vegan with no additives or preservatives. The range of soups includes Farmhouse Chicken with Lemon & Thyme, Italian Tomato with Lentil & Red Pepper, Beetroot with Crème Fraiche & Dill, and Spicy Butternut Squash with Sweet Potato. They are also available in 300ml microwaveable pots for convenience. There is also a range of pasta sauces, such as Jalapeno Pepper Salsa, Mediterranean Summer Vegetable Sauce and Tideford favourites Tomato & Basil Sauce. And finally, new to Tideford is Vanilla and Classic Porridge with Cinnamon.

ChOCOLatE trEat

Luxury chocolate maker House of Dorchester has plenty to tempt the tastebuds. New to the line-up is Raspberry Caramel Hearts, a creamy, sticky raspberry flavoured caramel, encased in a heart shaped shell and wrapped in delicious milk chocolate, hand topped with freeze dried raspberries and drizzled with white chocolate strickles. Or you could try Rose & Violet Truffles, combined with the perfumed flavour of rose or violet, hand cut, and covered in 70 per cent dark chocolate and hand decorated with a pink chocolate for rose and purple chocolate for violet. Finally, how about traditional hot cross buns with a twist? These hot cross bun flavoured white chocolate truffles contain juicy raisins, hand cut, twice wrapped in milk chocolate and hand decorated with a white chocolate cross.

a taste of italy

Natural sweet treat

An organic and natural sweet is now available in stores. Organic tic tac Natuhit contains no nasties, chemically derived tastes or preservatives and comes in a variety of flavours.

FINE FOODIES Winter 2012

Award-winning Easy Bean has brought a flavour of Italy to its latest creation. Easy Bean has expanded its range of meal pots with Italian Pasta e Fagioli, made with borlotti beans and orecchiette pasta, porcini mushrooms, balsamic vinegar, pearl onions and celeriac in a creamy sauce. The product is hand-prepared and cooked in small batches in Easy Bean’s Somerset kitchen. The pots are natural, low in calories and contain two to three of your five-a-day vegetable portions.

festive luxury With opies

If you’re looking for a touch of indulgent luxury for the festive season, look no further than Opies and its special range of fruit in alcohol. The range includes Black Cherries in Kirsch, grown in the orchards of Tragana, Greece, which are renowned for their delectable, sweet taste. Once picked, the cherries are preserved in Luxardo Kirsch giving them a unique flavour. Opies Black Cherries in Kirsch is ideal when spooned over smooth vanilla ice-cream for a perfect after dinner treat. Alternatively, for those who enjoy a spot of sweetness, Opies Baby Pears in Amaretto could be the perfect Christmas table accompaniment. The Ercolina baby pears are grown in the orchards of southern Europe and have a luscious taste and firm texture, perfect for mixing into Greek-Style yoghurt.

Limited edition from Dorset Cereals

Cherry and Almond Granola is the new limited edition variety introduced by Dorset Cereals following a customer vote. Earlier this year, Dorset Cereals asked its Facebook fans what their favourite granola recipe would be, and as a result of hundreds of recipe suggestions, the new variety has been developed, courtesy of Stacey Woods from Poole, Dorset. Inspired by the classic Bakewell Tart, the new limited edition granola is a mix of oats and sunflower seeds with rye flakes, almonds and cherries.

Interview

Britain’s best baker

Fresh from being named the 2012 champion of The Great British Bake-off, John Whaite talks to Fine Foodies Editor, Rachel Symonds, about his victory, Nigella, and why his mood dictates his dishes.

ou would have to have

were asked to make a chiffon cake based

been hiding under a rock

on what the year had meant for them.

to have missed the buzz

John explains: “I’m a very emotional

that surrounded the

person and I wear my heart on my sleeve.

nation’s latest favourite

I wanted to make something that

cookery show, The Great British Bake-off. The BBC series, starring Mary Berry and

portrayed the last year for me; I had been

Paul Hollywood as judges, has captured

was stressful and was going into a career

the hearts of the nation, seemingly

in banking, which wasn’t something I

inspired by seeing ordinary people (all

wanted to do, and then my nieces and

amateur bakers) create quite extraordinary

nephews were born, so I wanted to

dishes.

portray elation and unhappiness at the

doing my exams for my degree, which

And one name on the tip of everyone’s

same time. Being quite a dramatic person,

lips at the moment is John Whaite, the

I base a lot of my cakes on how I’m feeling

23-year-old recently crowned winner of

and the various emotions that I have – I’m

the 2012 series. Those who saw this year’s

writing a recipe at the moment based on

offering will recall how John bowled over

a Greek myth!”

the judges in the final with his ‘heaven and

It was the ‘heaven and hell’ creation

hell’ cake, which helped take him to the

something I turn to as a comfort blanket,

that John says he was especially pleased

winner’s title. And now, he is busy planning

if I’m stressed or a bit down or even if I’m

with.

what is certain to be an exciting career.

ecstatically happy about something. I

“I was definitely really proud of it. I lost

always bake that emotion into a cake,”

sleep over it but it was a true creation for

when he was in the final year of a law

John revealed. “Whatever mood I’m in

me and I think it is a good representation

degree.

there’s a cake for it. It would be something

of my true ability. My partner and I worked

like macaroons if I’m happy, if I’m feeling

on that together too so it was also a

attention has been really strange – it is

quite blue it would be something simple

representation of us as a couple,” he said.

really busy, but such great fun,” John said.

like a chocolate cake or a chocolate

“I have just come from doing a degree

fondant, something that pleases the

where I sat and read books all day, so it’s a

palate.”

Quite a contrast from this time last year,

“It has been a bit of a whirlwind and the

big change but I’m really enjoying it.”

Emotional inspiration Totally self-taught through reading books and watching tutorials on YouTube, John

What John makes, both on the show

John also admits to being a perfectionist of sorts. “If I’m feeling productive the recipes come quickly but sometimes it can take

and at home, is based on how he is

three days to create a recipe if something

feeling and it’s obvious that he uses

isn’t quite working with it. If it’s not right I

baking as a way to express emotion.

would throw it in the bin, even if it tasted

“I base my food on my moods. I’m a

good, because I’m a bit of a perfectionist.

began baking with his mother and sister

home baker and a food writer and so I

I’m a contradiction in terms – I’m a bit of a

when he was a child during his parents

don’t feel the need to be particularly

slap dash perfectionist!”

divorce, “just easy things like fairy cakes

competitive. That’s not to say I won’t be

and crispy cakes” and his passion grew as

innovative but I know that my baking is

Becoming a contestant

he got older.

based on my emotions. It is classic

It was last October, when John was

combinations but with a modern twist.”

watching the final of the 2011 series, that

A great example of this is his ‘heaven

he decided to take the plunge and apply

But he doesn’t bake purely for something nice to eat. Baking to John is much more than that. “Ever since I was younger it has been

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

and hell cake’, the dish he made for the final challenge where the contestants

for this year’s offering. “I had baked the dishes the contestants

“If I can help instil confidence in people, that they can create recipes they are pleased with, I would be a happy man.” made on the last series so just thought

team and then for Paul and Mary. During

why not go for it and apply,” he explained.

this stage, he made his strawberry and

In February he found out he had made

“Baking is what I really wanted to do and I

champagne macaroons, and pork and

it onto the show and by April filming had

wanted to show my parents it was what I

apricot pork pie.

begun in Bristol. The show actually

could do, and this was my chance.” John was called for a number of “quite

“That was quite daunting because I had

But it was so exciting.”

finished filming in June, so John then had

never been judged for my baking before

an agonising three month wait until the

gruelling” interviews, which included

and then you are there baking for two

final was aired and he was revealed to the

having to bake for both the production

professionals who are judging your work.

nation as the winner.

WINTER 2012 FINE FOODIES

Interview

This year’s line-up with judges Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry, along with presenters, Mel and Sue

“It was so hard to keep it a secret,” he

he credits the show with helping him

admits, “but it was really important to me

hone his skills.

that it didn’t get out, not just because the

“During the baking the judges didn’t

production company trusted you to keep

give much feedback because they

it quiet but also because I didn’t want to

couldn’t be biased but afterwards they

ruin the surprise for people.”

would tell us where they thought we

Although the series sees the 12

went wrong and I can honestly say I learnt

contestants go up against each other

more in those 10 weeks than I have in the

competing to win the weekly ‘star baker

years before the show. You pick up so

accolade’, John insists it didn’t feel that

many tips and techniques,” he said.

competitive.

Today, John finds himself taking part in

“When you see the others on the show,

various TV opportunities as well as

you do think they are really good but I

penning his first book.

didn’t feel that competitive – we were all

“I just hope people take some

in the same situation and so I think we

confidence from my recipes. I get asked a

empathised with each other,” he said.

lot ‘how do you do that’, people see

“Lots of people asked me if I wanted to snigger when James [Morton, fellow

baking as a science and although it is, it is

finalist] dropped his cake but I was so gutted for him because you know how you would feel in that situation, and he coped with it far better than I think I would.” John does admit, however, it was a pretty intense experience. “In some of the tasks I could get caught up in my thought process rather than with the baking, so I had to get myself into the baking bubble,” he added. Although confident in his ability, he admits he was still shocked to be named champion. “Paul and Mary said after the fondant fancy challenge we were all on an even keel and I had confidence in what I could do but you never know,” he said, adding: “It was a huge surprise. The only time I had a suspicion was just before they announced it, when Mel and Sue weren’t looking at me – over the weeks we had learnt that if they didn’t look at you, it was

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

a science you can master,” he says. “If I can help instil confidence in people, that they either that you were the star baker or

can create recipes they are pleased with, I

were going home. That gave me an

would be a happy man.”

inkling, but those seconds while we

The dream also involves setting

waited for the name felt like ages. And

up his own patisserie or bakery in

even when they said my name I was in

Manchester.

shock. I didn’t think I would be a finalist let alone the winner.” After being revealed as the 2012

“There is not really anything to offer in Manchester in terms of a really good independent,” he explains. “And I would

champion, it’s been a bit of a whirlwind of

really like to go to the Cordon Bleu school

media interviews for John, but he says he

in London – as long as what I do is related

is not being allowed to get carried away.

to food then I’m happy.”

“My family are supportive but in a sarcastic way in that they have tried to keep my feet on the ground. I need that

He also has ambitions for who he would like to cook for. “I would love to bake for Nigella as she

as I can get carried away with ideas of

has that sensual and emotional aspect to

what I want to do. I’m really grateful for

food as well – I would love to bake

their support,” he added.

something indulgent for her and we

The future’s bright

would share it over a bottle of wine! I would also like to bake for Paul Hollywood

The experience has clearly taught John a

again and for him to say that’s amazing

huge amount and there’s no doubt he

– I’m still not satisfied with the amount of

has an exciting career ahead of him. And

praise I’ve had from him!” FF

UK fare

Explore the best of

Northumberland

England most northern county has plenty to whet the tastebuds when it comes to food and drink.

oasting stunning scenery

none more so than the Northumberland

continuous coastal walking route. Then

and dramatic coastlines,

Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty,

there is the beach at Bamburgh Castle,

Northumberland attracts

which is home to waders, geese and

which was voted one of Britain s favourite

vast swathes of visitors each

ducks who feed off the mud flats.

views in an ITV1 programme. And that s

year, keen to take in all this

county has to offer. But that s not where the allure of

Then there is Northumberland National Park, which covers around one quarter of a million acres of protected landscape. It

just a small flavour of what the area has to offer.

Northumberland â&#x20AC;&#x2019; England s most

begins at the World Heritage Site of

Culinary traditions

northern county â&#x20AC;&#x2019; ends. In the same way

Hadrian s Wall and runs through the rivers

As with many of the UK s counties,

there s a rich diversity of landscapes here,

North Tyne, Rede, Coquet and Beamish to

Northumberland has a rich history when

so too is the county s food offering.

the Cheviot Hills.

it comes to its culinary traditions and has

Northumberland explored The county has some stunning scenery,

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

Visit the coast in winter and you may see grey seals, or you could take to the

a heritage that is very varied. Starting with fish, Northumberland has

Northumberland Coast Path, part of the

wonderful salmon rivers in both the north

North Sea Trail, which is a 64 mile

and south of the county, and is known to

produce some of the UK s best quality

But it s not only the food side that

dealers, farmers markets and butchers,

fish. This ranges from flat fish, wild salmon,

Northumberland has something to be

as well as many producers selling direct

sea trout and lobsters. It also boasts

proud of; given the volume of wheat and

from the farm.

lobsters grown within the nature reserve

barley it produces, there are plenty of

at the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, and

brewers in the county, which has a history

instead of through a supermarket for

Craster Kippers, which come from the

of distilling.

example, is considered crucial to ensure

county, are said to be served to the Queen. Then there is Northumberland s heritage when it comes to lamb, which is most famous in the uplands of the

There is also the famous Alndwick Rum,

food miles and carbon emissions, and

ago. Also hailing from the county is Abbey

with more money retained the local

Well water.

economy, shoppers are helping keep

lambs produce a distinct and sweet flavour and can be found at many a local

If you re looking for something a bit

butcher.

different, Northumberland has a

Its veggie offering is also impressive,

a sustainable local economy; with less

which was first made almost a century

Off the beaten track

county. The small, heather-fed Cheviot

In fact, buying produce this way,

wonderful offering when it comes to the

and includes the famous Carrolls Heritage

shopping experience, with a large

potatoes.

number of farm shops, traditional game

local farming and food production viable. FF

Find out more

If you would like to explore more of what the area has to offer, visit www.visitnorthumberland.co.uk

WINTER 2012 FINE FOODIES

WE’VE GOT FINE Leading in-store magazine

Published quarterly, Fine Foodies is the leading free in-store consumer food magazine, available from your local deli, farm shop or speciality find food store.

NEW website

Finefoodiesmag.com includes a digital issue of Fine Foodies as well as competitions and every recipe available to download.

Thank you for all your feedback “Our customers love Fine Foodies, it is flying out of the door.” Simon Johnson, Simon’s Quality Butchers and Deli

“Fine Foodies magazine has gone so well and we’ve had really good feedback from our customers” George Richard, Richards of Cornwall, Hayle.

“Fine Foodies is very informative with some great features. We’ve only been open 10 months, so it’s a great magazine to source new products from. We’ve doubled our order!” Ishka Sanderson-Dickson, The Monkey Tree Deli, Cumbria.

FOOD COVERED NEW Fine Foodies enewsletter

Twitter and Facebook

Passionate about good od food food f Tweet @finefoo us dies

Fine Foodies E-News

Welcome to the Fine Foodies E-News, bringing you news, stories and updates from the fine food sector. Make sure you visit our website at www.finefoodiesmag.com where you can read the latest issue of the magazine online. Please send all press releases, news and marketing information to Emily Sexton-Brown on emily.sexton-brown@targetpublishing.com.

Keeping it local with Cornercopia Fine Foodies spoke to Anne Fairbrother, coowner of Cornercopia, a small deli based in the heart of Brixton. We spoke to them about how they started and what they believe it takes to run a successful deli.

Leek Loving British leek season has arrived; this runs from November through to April. This is the perfect opportunity to start using local, fresh produce in your everyday cooking and spending a lot less.

Fine Foodies: When was Brixton Cornercopia born? Anne Fairbrother: We were born on December 17 2010 when my idea for a corner store celebrating local food won a place in the Spacemakers Empty shops project. My partner Ian Riley is a chef and the culinary genius behind the project. We began with one very empty shop and now almost three years on we have a tiny deli filled with local produce and a restaurant with a menu focused on seasonal, local and British food. The November menu is here: http://brixtoncornercopia.co.uk/ Fine Foodies: What local produce do you buy? Anne Fairbrother: Our tiny cornershop deli is filled with great local produce that both we and local people make. We buy honey made by Brixton bees from a local beekeeper, jams and preserves made by small local producers, beer from the Kernel Brewery in a Railway arch in South London, English wines from Kent, fruit liqueurs made with Quinces from Essex and spirits like gin that are distilled in Clapham. For the restaurant we buy some fruit and veg from the surrounding market - all our fish comes from Dagons fish stall, other seasonal British fruit and veg or items like Venison (which features on our menu at the moment), come from suppliers close to London - mostly Kentish. Our bread comes from Brockwell Bake and is hand milled and baked in a wood fired oven just down the road. We also get some fabulous baby leaves form Lambeth Poly - a new community education and growing project in Tulse Hill (Brixton).

Leeks can be used as a staple ingredient within comfort winter cooking. There are varied ways you can use them whilst cooking. The following is courtesy of www.britishleeks. co.uk, providing several recipes that can be easily followed. We chose to share a recipe for a leek, stilton and chestnut open tart, if you’re feeling fancy: Ingredients • 4 Sheets of Filo Pastry • Olive Oil • 25g Butter • 3 Leeks – diced and washed • 75g Chestnuts - chopped • 100ml White Wine • Juice of 1 Lemon • 50g Stilton Cheese • 25g Chopped Fresh Parsley • 75ml Whipping Cream For the pastry cases • Cut each sheet of filo pastry into four even shapes as close to a square as possible • Lightly brush each square with olive oil and layer one on top of the other slightly off-centre so you end up with four stacks of four sheets. • Now carefully mould each stack into a four inch tart case. • Allow surplus pastry to hang over the edges of the cases then bake in a pre-heated oven at 150ºC until crisp and golden. Remove from the oven and allow them to cool.

Sign up for our enewsletter on finefoodiesmag.com and you’ll receive all the latest foodie news to your inbox every fortnight.

Fine Foodies: Do you have any up and coming Christmas events? If so, what? Anne Fairbrother: Starting in December Christmas lunches & dinners can be booked for groups of up to 20 in our cosy dining room with log-burning stove. We will have DIY Christmas hamper making from 22 November, when people can choose locally made produce (e.g. Brixton grown quince in brandy syrup, cranberry jelly, chutney, cheeses & our own Christmas puddings) and have them gift wrapped in wicker baskets or enamel pie tins. On the evening of 6th December there will be a Gift Local event in the market with some roving entertainment, mulled wine and raffle prizes. Fine Foodies: What is the general response to Brixton Cornercopia in the local area? Anne Fairbrother: It’s been great; people have been very supportive of both the idea of our deli and of our local food.

Join the conversation on Twitter and Facebook. Follow @finefoodies for the latest news, views and tasty recipes.

For the filling • Melt the butter in a thick-bottomed pan and add the leeks. Cook until tender. • Stir in the chopped chestnuts and cook for a further minute. • Add the white wine and lemon juice and bring to a simmer and reduce the liquid by half. Now add the whipping cream and bring to the boil then remove from the heat. Gently stir in the Stilton Cheese until melted then add the chopped parsley. • Remove the filo tart cases from their tins and place onto your serving plates. • Carefully spoon the leek and stilton mixture into the cases and garnish with watercress salad and a drizzle of vinaigrette around the outside. • Feel welcome to jazz it up with slices of smoked salmon or Parma ham for a very special and simple Christmas treat.

Sausage of the week Following last week’s interview with Stephen Plume aka ‘The Sausage King’ we are introducing a ‘sausage of the week’ section. Here is Stephen’s chosen sausage this week:

For more details take a look at the website: http://brixtoncornercopia.ning.com/

Eurostar menu gets the Michelin star treatment

To sign up for our fortnightly enewsletter, log on to

Eurostar as of the October 31 has appointed a new Culinary Director; a certain Mr Raymond Blanc. Gone are the days of dull and unsatisfying train meals, as Eurostar goes above and beyond to supply top quality food with the help and guidance of muchloved French chef Raymond Blanc. Recent research shows that over a third of Eurostar users said that the quality of the food was below average and that something had to be done. Blanc is the owner of Le Manior aux Quat’ Saisons in south England, which holds two Michelin stars, and had been hard at work creating menus including seasonal ingredients from the three counties linked with the Eurostar. The idea is that the passengers travelling from London will be severed mainly British favourites, while those travelling from Paris will receive French cuisine. Raymond will also be introducing some of his own family recipes to the menu such as, mackerel salad and chocolate delice with praline custard.

This week it’s all about leeks and I’ve found quality sausage treasure!

www.finefoodiesmag.com

A stand out household favourite is Musk’s pork and leek. Musks use the same traditional recipe as for their original pork sausages (themselves a real treat) with the addition of powerful and moorish leeks. These really are a great and hearty sausage. I like them best in a toad in the hole with mustard mash and onion gravy. Delicious! If you would love to recommend an amazing British sausage made the traditional way you can get in touch via my website at www.sausagefans.co.uk or you can follow me on twitter @sausagekinguk.

Tweet Corner Thank you so much for all your great tweets, we love hearing from you, so keep them coming in. These are our favourite ones this

Published by

Food focus

Family affairs Fine Foodies’ Jennifer Britt talks to the producers making your festive fare about how they enjoy Christmas when the big day finally arrives after the seasonal rush.

he East Anglian coast, with

wake-up call first thing in the morning and

of life on the lovely Channel Island of

the wind whipping off the

then at frequent times throughout the

Jersey. One of the things that Greg

North Sea, is a great place

day. Spiced Winter Red Tea, a rooibos tea

Mcdonald appreciates about his home

for an invigorating

with orange peel, ginkgo, orange blossom

turf on Christmas Day is how quiet the

Christmas afternoon or

and cinnamon, warms body and spirits

roads are.

Boxing Day morning walk. And the more blustery it is the better. Louise Allen, master tea taster and co-founder of speciality tea company,

after a bracing trip to the beach. “And we drink a lot of peppermint. It’s

“It’s bliss to drive anywhere,” he says. As with most people working in food

good for helping cope with all that food

and drink, Christmas will have started

and drink,” adds Louise.

months before for Greg, who is general

Teapigs, will be escaping to Suffolk from

Also in demand during and after the

London for Christmas with her husband

party season is matcha, a concentrated

Mary, a diversified business with its own

and small son to spend time with her

Japanese green tea powder. Rich in

chocolatier, orchards, cider making,

parents and enjoy family, friends, food...

antioxidants, it gives an energy boost

distillery and shops, on and offline.

and fresh air to counteract the effects of

when you are dashing from Christmas

indulgence allowed its annual free rein.

shopping to the school nativity, fitting in

drinkers, wines from La Mare are only sold

the ‘do’ at work, visits to relations and

on the island, but its hampers, apple

home and eat. My dad also makes

making merry with friends. And when it’s

brandies, condiments, chocolate and

wonderful cocktails and then Christmas

the morning, or the January, after a

fudge are exported far and wide.

lunch is lots of courses and lots of dessert,”

Christmas celebrated to the max, matcha

says Louise. “My parents live near a place

is a pick-you-up and detox aid.

“My mum is a really good cook, so I go

called Shingle Street, which has a really

manager at La Mare Wine Estate at St

Regretfully for the majority of UK

A La Mare speciality that always features at the Mcdonald festive table is Black Butter, Nier Beurre (nier is Jersey French for

extreme beach, very steep and windy and

Be merry

we often go there to walk at Christmas to

It may surprise mainland city dwellers who

made after the apple harvest by stirring

be blown about a bit.”

assume a monopoly on traffic congestion

apples, sugar, liquorice and spices slowing

that busy roads are also part of the fabric

over an open fire.

Tea is all part of the ritual, too; the

black). This is a traditional Jersey product

Greg spoons it into homemade mince pies or apple pies. It goes equally well spread on toast or as an accompaniment to meat and you can also enjoy its taste in Christmas pud shaped Jersey Black Butter Chocolates. After a bumper 2011, this year’s apple harvest has been hit by excessive rain but fortunately there was plenty of brandy Louise Allen (far left), Bob and Sam Lindo (above), and Lynne Mallinson

stored in cask to ensure supplies of the La Mare Estate Jersey Apple Brandy Cream. Christmas wouldn’t taste quite the same without it, says Greg. At the Camel Valley vineyard deep in Cornwall’s countryside, the Lindo family are famous not only for their consistently award-winning wines, but also their Christmas morning spread. Bob and Annie Lindo, founders of

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

Camel Valley, their wine-making champion

could be very heaven, and even if it’s grey

son, Sam, their daughter Esther, their

and wet, with a glass of Camel Valley

Day is to think of all the people, from all

partners and the small grandchildren

Cornwall Brut to hand it really doesn’t

over the world, who visited us and are

enjoy a perennial menu of scrambled

matter.

drinking our wine,” says Bob.

Camel Valley eggs, smoked wild River

This bubbly was the 2010 International

“The lovely feeling for us on Christmas

Camel Salmon – a river runs through the

Wine Challenge Gold medal winner so

Sweet stuff

farm – and croissants. Last year, the Lindo

always has a special fizz for the Lindos. For

The day that Fine Foodies chatted to

Christmas breakfast was featured on Raymond Blanc’s BBC Christmas Feast.

lunch, Bob and Annie would recommend

Lynne Mallinson she had put in the

a Camel Valley Bacchus with the turkey

equivalent of a day’s work by lunchtime.

and Pinot Noir rose fizz as the aperitif... and

She had left her Lake District farmhouse at

the digestif!

Dacre, near Penrith, pre-dawn to round up

If they are blessed with a crisp, sunny winter’s morning, this slice of Cornwall

WINTER 2012 FINE FOODIES

Food focus Say it with hampers

Christmas cake after soaking the fruit in

Big box The Wooden Spoon

Puddings storeroom, where the puddings

brandy for a week. Her mincemeat is homemade, too, but the Christmas pudding will be from the Country

Preserving Company provides a

have been maturing over several

bespoke hamper service putting

months... as long as she remembers to

together products from its range including its unique Pickled Fruits, such as pears in spiced Champagne vinegar and cherries in spiced red wine

pick one up in time. By the beginning of November, the orders have all gone out to the shops and

Cheese... and biscuits Fudges wafers come in four varieties, cheddar, stilton, walnut and, for something more exotic, jalapeno. So light, so delicious, so easy to eat the whole packet.

Cheese... and pickle Fed up with too much choice and too many fancy flavours? The Bay Tree’s Farmhouse Pickle keeps it simple with

the Christmas cupboard is bare. In

a traditional recipe to add extra

English Cream Tea Company include

January, the Christmas mixing bowl will

perkiness to a wedge of Cheddar.

the Nell Gwyn, with a strong orange

be taken out to make a start on the 2013

Cold meats... and mustard

vinegar. Christmas hampers from the

flavour.

Little box Strawberry Marc de

batch.

Champagne Truffles are infused with

Cheese choice

real strawberry pieces, coated in white

There’s a lot of heritage in the Barber

chocolate, topped with freeze dried strawberries and pink chocolate. Not many to a box but perfect.

family, which has been farming and cheesemaking in the Somerset village of Ditcheat for six generations – that’s back to the 1800s.

lambs for market from the fell. And by

Their Christmas turkey custom doesn’t

8am, she had washed, dressed,

reach quite that far but for a fair few years

breakfasted and was at her “day job”, at

now the Barber clan, the sibling and

the small production unit for her Country

cousins who live in the locality, have been

Puddings range.

buying their free range birds from another

New packaging, the planning and design of which has made 2012 an

farming family in the village of Kingweston. “We don’t need to order, every year the

exceptionally busy year, emphasises her

turkeys are waiting there for us to pick up

farmer’s wife credentials.

a couple of days before Christmas,” says

On Christmas Day, though, it will be

Giles Barber, who works in the

cooking not farming that gets Lynne out

cheesemaking side of the Barbers

of bed early to prepare the traditional

business but lives on a farmhouse on one

turkey and all the trimmings to share with

of the farms. His children are 15, 14 and

her husband and teenage children.

10, so the morning of December 25

“We always have people popping in so I always have a variety of things ready for

doesn’t dawn quite as early as it used to. With so many branches of the family

them, a trifle, chocolate mousse, good

nearby, where everyone sits down to dine

cheeses,” says Lynne.

is a moveable element of the festivities,

Even though she cooks for a living, Lynne still loves making and baking at home, and that includes her own

but whoever is playing host the Christmas spread will include a cheeseboard. Giles likes to keep it simple; a round of

elegant wine but still capturing the best of

& Pear, made with William pears from

the style of rustic wine produced by the

France, is a great match for turkey, and

region’s rugged 19th century settler

the fresh, milled ginger in Hot Ginger Beer

Italian vine growers.

meats.

Not driving How about a bottle or

Not dieting Honeyrose Fruit

made with 6X brewed by another Wiltshire company, Wadworth of Devizes.

Cold meats... and chutney Fig & Cinnamon Chutney from Hawkshead Relish is right on the button for Christmas flavours. But don’t reserve it for the cold collation, it will enliven hot dishes too, especially game and cheese.

Hot or not

Something hot Heidi Pie made with Somerset goats’ cheese,

sweet potato, spinach and red onion, is one of Pieminster’s Vegetarian Society approved options and a readymade solution when veggie friends are celebrating chez vous.

Something cold Chocolate

Orange & Cointreau from Styles

ice cream is fruity, chocolatey and classic but just that little bit different to standard old rum and raisin as a lighter alternative to Christmas pud.

the Brie-style soft cheese made from the milk of a local Jersey herd by another

“I won’t name any names because I have quite a few friends making Stilton so I can’t show favouritism.” For the cheddar, it has to be some of Barbers’ own-year matured Vintage Reserve. Ready now to eat is the batch

Soaked Christmas Cake comes stylishly

that was a Cheddar Trophy winner as a

packaged with Italian panache,

younger cheddar in the World Cheese

two of hearty red? Bonterra, a famous

panettone-style, but packed with

name in organic wines, celebrates the

traditional British baking ingredients. “It’s

heritage of its Californian home territory,

nice and sticky and warm on the tongue,”

Mendocino County, in its Zinfandel, an

said chef of this parish, a Mr Gary Rhodes.

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

Tracklements has a Beer Mustard

Bruton and a good Stilton.

Not drinking Luscombe’s Apple teams up brilliantly with sweet glazed

The maestros of the mustard world,

Somerset cheesemaker, Godminster of

Festive fancies

The perfect accompaniment

Awards in 2011, so there are great expectations. “It’s powerful and it’s flavoursome,” says Giles. FF

In season

To the roots T

he nights may be drawing in,

in the autumn and barn-stored. And

but there are plenty of seasonal

parsnips are sweeter after the first frost,

vegetables around to throw into

which converts the starch to sugar,

warming winter dishes and keep

improving the flavour. Hardy greens such as Savoy cabbage and

the spirits up.

best flavour and carefully picked by hand. If you’re fed up with soggy boiled sprouts, try roasting or stir frying them so

kale also come into their own, and are also

they keep their crunch. Riverford

dug, such as parsnips, swede and root

at their best after being exposed to some

sometimes harvests the whole sprout stalk

artichokes or from the store, such as

frost. And, of course, it’s time to look out for

for their vegbox customers – partly

potatoes and carrots. Organic grower

love-them-or-hate-them Brussels sprouts.

because it helps them last longer and

Riverford finds its carrots taste better if dug

Riverford’s sprouts are grown slowly for the

partly because they look so fantastic.

Roots are at their best, whether freshly

Ribollita

Serves 4

You could use a head of Savoy cabbage for this, although cavolo nero is the traditional component of this Tuscan dish. It was originally made over a couple of days, starting as a hearty soup, then layered with leftovers the next day with day-old bread. The soup is then reboiled (‘ribollita’) and drizzled with olive oil. This is a quicker version. Ingredients: • 400g tin cannellini or other white beans, rinsed and drained

• 1 large bunch cavolo nero (approx 300g), leaves stripped from their stalks and shredded

• 3tbsp olive oil

• 1l hot veg stock

• 2 onions, finely sliced

• 400g tin chopped tomatoes

• 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 4 sage leaves, shredded

• 4 carrots, peeled and diced

• 4 slices day old sourdough bread, toasted

• 4 stalks of celery, diced

(use gluten free bread if required)

• 4 sage leaves, shredded

• Sea salt and ground black pepper

• 2 large potatoes, peeled and diced

• Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

Method: • Lightly mash the beans with a fork or potato masher until slightly puréed but with some still whole. • Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and cook the onions gently for 10 minutes without browning, until soft. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or two. Add the carrots, celery, potatoes, kale, stock, tomatoes and sage. Season with salt and pepper. • Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and cook for 20 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked. Add the beans and kale. Simmer for another five minutes to thicken the soup and wilt the kale. • Lay the toasted bread in four bowls. Check the seasoning then pour over the bread. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil to serve.

Kale and ricotta frittata Serves 4 Ingredients: • 200g black kale, leaves stripped from their stalks and shredded • 1tbsp olive oil • 1 onion or leek, finely sliced • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped • 200g ricotta cheese • 6 eggs • ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg • 2tbsp parmesan or pecorino Method: • Heat the oil in a non-stick pan and fry the onion gently for about eight minutes. Add the garlic and fry gently for a couple of minutes. Add the kale and wilt for a few minutes. • In a large bowl, mix the ricotta, eggs, nutmeg and cheese. Season and pour over the kale mixture and cook over a very low heat for a few minutes until just set underneath. • Finish under the grill or in the oven, until the top is just set. Leave to cool slightly, then cut into wedges to serve.

Stir-fried sprouts with cranberries and pecans Serves 4 Ingredients:

• 1tbsp oil

• 50g dried cranberries

• Knob of butter

• 75g pecans, toasted in a dry frying pan

• Sea salt and ground black pepper

and roughly chopped • 500g Brussels sprouts

Method: • Put the cranberries in a small bowl and pour over boiling water to just cover them. Soak for 10-15 minutes, then drain. • Cut the sprouts in half, lay each half flat on your chopping board and finely shred the leaves. Heat the oil and butter in a frying pan until the butter has melted. • Add the sprouts and fry for three to four minutes. Add the cranberries and nuts, season and toss together to serve.

Recipes by Riverford. Visit www.riverford. co.uk for more.

WINTER 2012 FINE FOODIES

Recipes

Good things come in three Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall has taken a simple and fresh approach to his latest recipe book. Hugh s Three Good Things offers a new perspective on your cooking.

Squash, apple, chilli

Serves 4

Spicy chilli oil deliciously balances the delicate sweetness of an autumnal squash and apple soup. The swirl of glowing orange-red oil enhances its appearance too. Ingredients: • About 1kg squash, such as Crown Prince, butternut or kabocha • 5-6 garlic cloves (unpeeled), bashed • 8-12 sage leaves (optional) • 3tbsp rapeseed, sunflower or olive oil • About 500g sharp dessert apples, such as Cox or Ashmead s Kernel • Up to 700ml chicken or vegetable stock • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the chilli oil: • 6tbsp extra virgin olive oil • Tsp dried chilli flakes 26

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

• A good pinch of sweet paprika (smoked paprika if you like) • Garlic clove, slivered Method: • Preheat the oven to 190° C/Gas 5. Cut the squash into slim wedges and scoop out the seeds. Put the squash wedges into a roasting tray, skin side down. Scatter the bashed garlic cloves over the squash. Roughly crush the sage leaves, if using, in your hands to release the flavour and strew these over too. • Trickle the oil all over everything and season well with salt and pepper. Roast for 40 minutes, checking after 25 minutes to see if

any of the sage leaves are starting to look charred; if so take them out, but retain. • Meanwhile, to make the chilli oil, gently heat the extra virgin olive oil, chilli flakes, paprika and garlic together in a small saucepan over a low heat for three to four minutes. You want the oil barely fizzing ‒ just hot enough to infuse the chilli. Set aside until needed. • Shortly before the roasting time is up, peel, quarter and core the apples. Cut each quarter in half. When the squash has had 40 minutes, remove the sage if you haven t already and add the apples to the tray. Stir everything around a bit, then return to the oven for a further 20 minutes, by which time the squash should be tender and caramelised and the apples collapsing. • Squeeze the roasted garlic cloves out of their skins into a blender (omit any that are a bit burnt). Add the apples. Scrape the squash flesh away from the skin and add this too. Add any oily juices left in the tray and a few of the sage leaves. • Pour about 400ml stock into the blender and blitz to a thick, creamy puree. Add more stock as you like, to achieve a consistency you are happy with. The amount you need will vary depending on the variety of squash; butternut is quite wet, but many other squashes have drier flesh. • Transfer to a saucepan and reheat. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve in warm bowls, topped with a generous trickle of the chilli oil. You can include a few fragments of chilli and garlic with the oil if you like, or not; it s up to you.

Salt beef, mash, duck egg

Serves 3-4

This is really a hash recipe ‒ ideal for using up leftover mashed potato and salt beef, but also other cooked meats, even pressed ox tongue or tinned corned beef. And, of course, you can use hen s eggs, although duck eggs have a lovely richness that makes a glamorous treat out of a leftovers classic. If you ve got suitable meat for this recipe, but no mash, it s well worth cooking the spuds from scratch. Ingredients: • About 300g leftover mashed potato or floury potatoes, such as King Edward, Wilja or Maris Piper, plus butter and milk for mashing • 2 tbsp rapeseed, sunflower or olive oil, plus extra for frying • 1 onion, finely sliced • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped • About 300g cooked salt beef, shredded or chopped • A good handful of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, chopped (optional) • 1tsp English mustard • A small knob of butter • 3-4 duck eggs (one per person) • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Method: • If you re cooking spuds from scratch, peel them and cut into even-sized pieces. Put into a saucepan, cover with water, add salt and bring to the boil. Simmer for 15-20 minutes or until tender. • Drain the potatoes, return to the pan and leave to steam-dry for a few minutes, then mash them, with a knob of butter and a dash of milk, if you like. • Place a frying pan over a medium heat and add the two tablespoons of oil. Add the onion and fry for 10-12 minutes until soft and starting to colour. Add the garlic, shredded salt beef and parsley, if using, and fry for a further two to three minutes. Season well with salt and pepper. Fold this into the mashed potato, along with the mustard. • Form the mixture into three or four large cakes, leave to cool on a large plate, then refrigerate for one hour. Heat a thin film of oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the hash cakes and fry gently for five to six minutes, turning occasionally, until nicely browned on each side. • Meanwhile, to fry the duck eggs, heat a touch more oil and a small knob of butter in another frying pan. Fry the eggs for two to three minutes to your liking, and serve with the fried hash cakes.

Plus one

Some might say it lowers the tone, but these cakes are pretty good served with baked beans! Pressed ox tongue and tinned corned beef are good straight swaps for the salt beef, as are hen s eggs for duck eggs.

WINTER 2012 FINE FOODIES

Recipes

Puff pastry, cream, chocolate

Serves 8

This is ridiculously easy, yet comes out looking pretty elegant. The only vaguely tricky bit is splitting the pastry into two ‒ and that requires just a modicum of care. The end result is a sort of cross between a mille feuille and giant chocolate éclair. And who could resist that? Ingredients: • 1 ready-rolled puff pastry sheet (about 200g), or roughly the same weight of ready-made block puff pastry • 300ml double cream • 4tbsp icing sugar • 100g dark chocolate Method: • Preheat the oven to 200° C/Gas 6 and lightly butter a baking sheet, or line with baking parchment. Your ready-rolled pastry sheet should measure about 22cm x 30cm. If you are using a block of pastry, roll it out on a lightly floured surface to roughly these dimensions and 4-5mm thick. Trim the edges to neaten. Lift the pastry on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 15-20 minutes until puffed up and golden brown. Carefully transfer to a wire rack to cool (this

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

won t take long). • Using a long, sharp, serrated knife, carefully split the pastry in two horizontally. You should find a natural in where the layers of pastry are thinner and weaker. Carefully insert the knife and work it gently all the way around the pastry rectangle until you have completely freed the upper layer from the lower. • In a bowl, whisk the cream together with the icing sugar until it holds soft peaks. Spread the cream over the base piece of puff pastry. Using a fine grater, grate about half the chocolate over the cream. Carefully put the second piece of pastry on top. • Melt the remaining chocolate; break it into a small bowl or tea cup and stand this inside a larger bowl of just-boiled water. When the chocolate is melted and smooth, trickle it lavishly over the top of the pastry. I like to

do this going back and forth diagonally across the pastry, but you can make any pattern you like. As soon as the chocolate is set, the pud is ready to serve. • Use a sharp, serrated knife to cut it into portions at the table.

Plus one

A little fruit, such as poached cherries, whole or lightly crushed fresh raspberries or sliced strawberries, provides a nice contrast. You can either scatter the fruit over the cream before you put the pastry lid on, or just serve it on the side.

Hugh s Three Good Things by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is published by Bloomsbury, £25

Recipes

A fusion of fun

Billy Law, who found fame on MasterChef Australia, brings an exciting fusion of recipes inspired by his native Malaysia with a fun twist.

Chorizo and prawn skewers

Garlic prawns and chorizo are two of my favourite Spanish tapas snacks. I like to call this combination surf-and-turf on a stick ‒ it s a match made in heaven! Ingredients: • 500g (1lb 2oz) raw prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined, tails left on • 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 1 red chilli, roughly chopped • 1 lemongrass stalk, white part only, roughly chopped • 2tbsp olive oil • 2 chorizo sausages, cut into 1cm thick slices • A few lemon wedges

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

Method: • Soak the bamboo skewers in water for 10 minutes. Combine the prawns, garlic, chilli, lemongrass and olive oil in a bowl, then cover and place in the refrigerator to marinate for at least 30 minutes.

• Wrap a prawn around a slice of chorizo, then insert a skewer through the prawn and chorizo to secure them together. Repeat with the rest of the prawns. • Preheat a barbecue hotplate or frying pan and cook the prawns for one minute on both sides, or until the prawns are cooked. Squeeze over some lemon juice before serving.

Marmite chicken

Serves 4

If you are a Vegemite or Bovril lover, then you will love Marmite chicken. I am 99.99 per cent sure that this dish originated from Malaysia; it was a big hit back in the early 90s, and almost every Chinese restaurant had its own version, which they claimed to be the best in town. But Marmite and chicken together? I hear you say! As peculiar and absurd as it may sound, the natural savoury flavour of Marmite works beautifully with soy sauce and honey. You will just have to give it a try!

Ingredients: • 500g (1lb 2oz) chicken pieces, such as drumsticks, wings or marylands, cut into bite-sized pieces (or use half a chicken) • 1tsp light soy sauce, plus 1tbsp extra for the sauce • 1tbsp oyster sauce • ½ egg, beaten • 2tbsp cornflour (cornstarch) • 2tbsp rice flour vegetable oil, for deep frying • 1tbsp Marmite yeast extract • 1tbsp honey • 2½ tbsp water • 1tsp dark soy caramel • Pinch of freshly ground black pepper • Pinch of sesame seeds, toasted

Method: • Put the chicken pieces in a bowl with the teaspoon of light soy sauce, the oyster sauce, beaten egg, cornflour and rice flour. Stir to combine, then place in the refrigerator to marinate for at least one hour. • Pour the vegetable oil into a large saucepan until about half full, then heat the oil to 180° C (350° F) over medium-high heat. Test to see if the oil is hot enough by dipping a wooden chopstick into the hot oil ‒ if the oil starts steadily bubbling around the chopstick, it s ready. Working in batches, deep-fry the chicken until golden brown. This will take about 10-15 minutes depending on the size of the chicken pieces. Drain on paper towel and set aside.

• Combine the Marmite, honey, water, dark soy caramel and extra tablespoon of light soy sauce in a bowl, stirring until the Marmite is dissolved. Heat a wok over medium‒high heat, pour in the sauce, then add the pepper and continue to stir until the sauce has thickened and reduced to one-third of its original volume. • Return the chicken to the wok, and toss everything together until the chicken pieces are evenly coated in the sauce. Transfer to a serving plate and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve with steamed rice.

Also...

You can use this same recipe for pork ribs or prawns; they both taste just as nice.

WINTER 2012 FINE FOODIES

Recipes

Popcorn and salted caramel macarons After countless attempts and many failures, this recipe is my formula for macaron success. Having said that, I won t guarantee this will always work for everyone. There are many reasons why your macarons might flop, including how you fold the batter and the temperament of your oven. Thus my advice is: practice, practice, practice. Ingredients: • 110g (3¾ oz) almond meal (ground almonds) • 200g (7oz) icing (confectioners ) sugar • 3tbsp water • 60g (2oz) caster (superfine) sugar • 90g (3oz) egg whites (about 3 egg whites), at room temperature • 10g (½ oz) popcorn, blitzed while still warm • 4 tbsp salted caramel Buttercream: • 100g (3½ oz) unsalted butter, softened • 200g (7oz) icing (confectioners ) sugar • 4 tbsp salted caramel Method: • Put the almond meal and icing sugar into a food processor, process the mixture for 30 seconds, scrape down the side, then process again for another 30 seconds. Sieve the mixture into a bowl and set aside. • Put the water and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Keep an eye on the temperature of the sugar syrup by using a sugar thermometer. Once the temperature reaches 110° C (230° F), start whisking the egg whites using an electric stand mixer until soft peaks form. When the temperature reaches 115° C (240° F), remove the sugar syrup from the heat, and slowly pour the syrup in a steady stream down the side of the mixing bowl into the egg whites. Increase the speed and whisk the meringue for another 10 minutes until it cools down. It should be smooth and glossy. • Remove the bowl of meringue from the mixer. Add half the almond mixture and fold together until well combined, then fold in the remaining almond mixture in two batches. This technique is known as macaronage and is crucial for perfect macarons; the batter should be thick and have a lava-like consistency. Scrape the mixture into a piping bag with an 8mm (⅜ inch) round tip. • Line a baking tray with baking paper. Pipe the macaron batter onto the tray, about 4cm (1½ inches) in diameter. Once the tray is filled, 32

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

pick up the tray and give it a gentle tap on the kitchen bench to smooth the top. Sprinkle with the popcorn flakes and set aside for one hour to set. • Preheat the oven to 140° C (275° F). Place the macarons in the oven and bake for 17-20 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on the tray for 10 minutes, then peel the macaron shells off the baking paper and place them on a wire rack. If the shells stick to the paper, return the tray to the oven and bake for another 10 minutes. • To make the buttercream, beat the butter until pale and creamy. Add the icing sugar, one tablespoon at a time, beating until incorporated. Add the salted caramel and beat until combined. Scrape the buttercream into a piping bag. Pipe a dollop of buttercream on the flat side of one macaron shell, top with another shell, and press it down gently. Repeat until all the macaron shells are filled.

Salted caramel Ingredients: • 115g (4oz/½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar • 125ml (4oz/½ cup) water • 250ml (8½ oz/1 cup) thickened (whipping) cream (35 per cent fat) • 1tsp sea salt flakes • 50g (2oz) unsalted butter, cut into cubes

Method: • To make the salted caramel, put the sugar and water into a saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Then turn the heat up to high and stop stirring; let it boil for about five minutes until the sugar starts to caramelise and turn into toffee. Keep an eye on it, as the sugar changes colour rather quickly. • Once it reaches a dark golden colour, pour the cream into the hot sugar; be very careful as it will splatter. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon and bring the caramel back to the boil, then add the salt and cook for three minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Whisk the butter, a cube at a time, into the caramel, then pour it into a heatproof jug and set aside to cool.

Have You Eaten? by Billy Law, is published by Hardie Grant, £25.

Foodie feature

Picking the perfect potato A potato is a potato is a potato, right? Well no, actually, as Fine Foodies discovered during a visit to see what goes into making a Corkers crisp.

t would be a bit of an

potato neither dehydrates nor alters. We

understatement to say the

ensure that our potatoes are stored in the

founders of Corkers crisps are a little

right way so that the potatoes don’t

passionate about potatoes.

sprout, turn green or rot and dry out. Light,

A visit to the Corkers HQ – and

temperature and dry matter affects all of

their hundreds of acres of land in the Fens,

these qualities which we maintain and

Cambridgeshire, where the potatoes are

manage.

grown – reveals Rod Garnham and Ross Taylor as rather knowledgeable when it

Source local

comes to their bread and butter, as it were.

Households need to be sure they are

And what really came to light was that

buying British produce! This way less

Rod (left), and Ross

so many factors can determine the quality

emissions will be created by lower food

of a potato. And so we asked Rod and Ross

miles. The potatoes that are exported

oak trees and forestry, the area flooded and

to explain just what to look for, and what

across the globe will have experienced

the deciduous woodland mulched into the

type makes the perfect dish.

added sprays and chemicals to keep the

ground. Because of this our crop is exposed

shelf life before they even hit the shop

to bog oak during growth in the ground.

Storage matters

shelf (no eye, good skin finish and no

Due to the rich peat soils our potatoes have

Rod: Different varieties of potatoes will

green bits). We have developed a family

a strong oaky taste. Luckily for East Anglian

have an effect on the outcome of a potato

grown seed that is of the highest quality

farmers the drainage across the fens is well

dish, however Maris Pipers and Naturalo

not only due to the land we grow it on but

established due to its situation below sea

potatoes are the most versatile, allowing

our agricultural knowledge and passion.

level. This helps ensure we steer away from

just about anything to be done to them.

pest and disease such as Blight, which is a

From roasting, chipping, baking and

Rod: Corkers Crisps are made here on our

burden throughout the potato community.

boiling, these potatoes are grown to cook

family farm. We have been farming since

The potatoes are harvested, washed, stored

up a storm. Households may not know

the 1800s here in the rich fenland soils; two

and made into Corkers Crisps here on our

that potatoes are sensitive vegetables but

years ago we diversified the farm into the

family farm.

the secret to cooking the best potato is to

crisp industry. After supplying to the fish

ensure that the process during and after

and chip industry in Scotland and Ireland

Ross: Look for a firm potato that

harvest has been perfected such as the

for many years we knew our Naturalo

hasn’t been refrigerated or baked in a

correct storage and temperature.

potato would be wonderful for crisps due

heated room. There is a lot of pressure on

to its frying qualities. Our Naturalo potato is

fresh produce farmers to meet standards

Ross: A quality potato must not be

grown in the fenlands. This is significant as

of shape, size and visuals. Naturalo

refrigerated as the starch sugars will

the soil is incredibly rich, black and peaty

potatoes are ugly and not particularly

increase and therefore change the

which is nutritious for the growth of our

aesthetically pleasing, however they are

qualities of the potato. The perfect potato

Naturalo potatoes. During the 1600s the

the best potato for every area within the

must be stored with 7’C to 15’c so the

fens was an area of land that was thick of

kitchen. FF

FINE FOODIES winter 2012

Global foodie

Tastes of Japan

With winter on the way, Reiko Hara warms up with some of Japan’s finest cuisine.

t has taken over 1,000 years for

delicious way to warm up your body to

briskly deep fried and served with ponzu

Japanese cuisine to develop the

the core. Condiments of chilli, finely

sauce as agedashi, or as a ‘steak’ with

sophistication that people across

chopped spring onions, and yuzu ponzu

mushroom sauce. Further, soya milk, the

the world appreciate today.

sauce are added, with each one helping

main ingredient of tofu (before set with

to give the seafood and vegetables a kick.

the coagulant nigari), is also increasingly

If we are to identify the four

primary factors that influenced its

A perfect accompaniment to such a

development they would be prohibition

meal, of course, is warmed sake – that’s

of meat eating, decreed by 7th century

more aromatic and less lethal than when

Emperor Temmu, vegan diet of Buddhist

drunk cold!

monks, rich fishing ground off the long

Preparation is simple. All that’s required

popular as a healthier, and tasty, alternative to milk. The low fat and high vegetable and pulse content of Japanese food, scientists say, is the key factor behind the longevity

Japanese coasts, and the idea of food as a

is to chop up vegetables, clean the prawns

of the Japanese – and the low rate of

reflection of seasonal changes.

and clams, cut up cod and tofu to bite size

heart disease.

All these factors have resulted in the

pieces and arrange them on large serving

creation of fresh, low fat, and clean tasting

plates. Then, set up a large earthenware

Fish fare

food that the trendy and health conscious

pot filled with konbu dashi broth on a

Thankfully there is much more to

adore.

portable gas stove in the middle of a

Japanese food than soya beans. Outside

dining table, and it’s ready to go. (Please

Buddhist temples, fish and all varieties of

refer to the recipe on page 37 for details

seafood are central to Japanese cooking

which includes chicken for variety.)

and the Japanese have a strong passion

Soya staple Centuries of a meat-eating ban, initially introduced to protect animals and

for fresh fish.

thereafter reinforced by the teaching of

Healthy cuisine

Buddhism and Shintoism, led the Samurai

Yosenabe is a wonderful way to enjoy a

in central Tokyo is the world’s biggest,

and ordinary Japanese to find their

variety of seafood – not least because you

where a large selection of the freshest

culinary delights in a huge variety of

end up with delicious fish soup for

tuna from across the globe are auctioned

seafood available off the Japanese

making noodles to round off the meal

every morning. The auction is quite an

archipelago.

– but the bonus is that, as with most

amazing sight, one not to be missed if

Japanese dishes the steamboat is

you are ever in Tokyo.

At the same time, the monks

Not surprisingly the Tsukiji fish market

ingeniously created sophisticated soya

exceptionally low in calories and

products, such as goma tofu (tofu

cholesterol. Not a drop of oil goes into

Japan thanks to vast fishing grounds

containing crushed sesame seeds and

cooking or preparation, and the

along nearly 30,000 km of coastal line of

arrow root) and ganmodoki (lightly fried

ingredients are virtually fat free.

the Japanese archipelago. Fish, together

tofu cakes), developing their own school

But the health benefits don’t stop

Fresh fish has always been plentiful in

with pulses, have for centuries been the

of vegan cuisine, Shojin Ryori, which in

there. Yosenabe is a great way of enjoying

only source of protein for the ordinary

itself has heavily influenced Japanese

a wide range of vitamin and mineral-rich

Japanese, until a ban on meat

cuisine. Moreover, the principle of

greens and mushrooms, as well as

consumption was lifted 140 years ago

providing a seasonal flavour in the choice

antioxidant-rich soya products, such as

when Japan opened its doors to the West.

of ingredients, cooking methods and

tofu and yuba (dried tofu ‘skin’). Health

presentation gives Japanese cooking its

properties of soya products are widely

such as sukiyaki (a one-pot sliced beef

distinct characteristics.

recognised.

dish cooked on the table) and teriyaki

In cold Japanese winter, therefore,

An ingenious invention of vegan

Since then a number of meat dishes,

(pan fried beef or chicken in soya and

Yosenabe – a steamboat of seafood, tofu,

Buddhist monks several centuries ago,

mirin sauce), or yakitori (barbecued

shitake and a wide variety of seasonal

tofu is today so popular worldwide that it

chicken brochette) have developed but

vegetables – is almost synonymous with a

is available in major supermarkets. It’s

meat consumption is still much lower in

family dinner. The one-pot dish cooked

worth purchasing high quality ones that

Japan than the West today. A leg of lamb

on the table and eaten just as the main

have the velvety texture of ricotta cheese

or beef joint almost never appears on a

ingredients of cod (the winter fish),

and delicate flavour. Tofu is also great

family dinner table in Japan.

prawns, clams and vegetables are cooked

cold, with grated ginger, finely chopped

to the optimum while piping hot is a

spring onions and a drizzle of soya sauce;

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

No article on Japanese food is complete without a mention of miso,

which again is a predominantly soya

marinated for two to three days in the

that had been cooked, to which boiled

product, fermented for between three

white sweet soybean paste. Black Cod is

noodle is added at the table. Follow this

months and two years after mixing in

hard to get but Nobu’s ideas work equally

by indulging in ice cream served by a

barley or wheat. It can be sweet, salty,

well with mackerel, the recipe for which is

fireplace – a perfect conclusion to a

white, ‘red’, pale or dark brown. Once

found below. Sat Bains also uses sweet

hearty, delicious and healthy meal! FF

again, it is said to have been first

white miso for a sauce for his Loch Duart

developed by monks around the 6th

Salmon, mixing into it passionfruit and

century as a seasoning.

oyster.

Today, miso soup, typically made of fish

Miso has huge scope for imaginative

stock and miso paste with seaweed or

use, though a traditional bowl of miso

tofu, is popular internationally. It is still

soup in the morning makes a hearty start

eaten with rice for breakfast, or any meal

to a day. Miso soup is also a must at a

in Japan. Again, there is a long list of

sushi bar, where diners round off a meal

health benefits of miso, though not all

with akadashi, red miso soup. It is a great

scientifically proven, including the aiding

way of cleansing a palate after eating raw

of digestion.

fish and downing sake.

But more importantly, a number of

If we return to the Yosenabe on a cold

celebrated chefs such as Nobu and Sat

winter evening, such a meal would ideally

Bains have used this ancient Japanese

be rounded off with wonderful seafood

seasoning to create imaginative dishes.

soup noodles, using the broth left in the

Nobu’s Black Cod with Miso is one of the

pot. The soup is an amazing harmony of

most popular dishes, in which black cod is

the fish, prawn, mushrooms and veggies

Reader offer

Fine Foodies is offering readers the chance to win one complete organic Sushi kit (worth £35), courtesy of Clearspring. The Clearspring brand promises premium quality Japanese specialities and organic fine foods that are authentic, versatile and support good health. Made to traditional recipes by master artisan producers, they bring you full, authentic flavours using the finest ingredients without artificial additives, colours or preservatives. See page 6 for details.

WINTER 2012 FINE FOODIES

Global foodie recipes Marinated mackerel in miso Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 minutes plus two to three days for marinating Cooking time: Eight minutes Ingredients: • 4 mackerel fillets • 450g white miso • 100ml mirin • 100ml sake • 250g caster sugar • For garnish, 4 pickled stem ginger

Yosenabe Hot Pot Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 15 minutes Ingredients: • 500g white fish (cod, haddock or coley) fillets • 250g boned chicken (optional) • 8-12 clams • 4-6 large size uncooked prawns • 8 fresh shiitake mushrooms • 1 pack enoki mushrooms • 6-12 large Chinese cabbage leaves • 1 small carrot • 4-6 spring onions • 2 block tofu • 200g udon noodles Broth: • 2 5cm square dried kombu • 600ml water Ponzu sauce: • 1tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice • 2tbsp rice vinegar • 5tbsp Japanese soya sauce • 1 square dried kombu • 5tbsp Dashi stock or water Condiments: • 4 spring onions, finely chopped

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

• ½ tsp Shichimi togarashi pepper (optional) Preparation: • Soak clams in salted water for one hour to remove sand and grit. Rinse them well • Cut fish into 5cm squares. De-vein prawns • Cut chicken into 5cm squares (optional) • Remove the stem of shiitake mushrooms • Remove the end of enoki mushrooms • Cut Chinese cabbage into 4cm slices • Peel and cut carrot into 1cm slices • Cut spring onions into 5cm length

• Cut tofu into 3cm cubes • Arrange prepared fish, chicken and vegetables neatly on a large plate Method: • Put water and kombu squares in the ceramic pot and bring slowly to boil. • Add the chicken (optional), vegetables, fish, seafood and tofu in order of time required to cook. • When all the ingredients are done, spoon ingredients into an individual bowl, serve with some ponzu sauce and condiments. • When the ingredients are eaten, add udon noodles to the broth. • Adjust the seasoning and serve in individual bowls.

Method: • Add mirin and sake in a saucepan and bring it to boil to burn off the alcohol. Add white miso to the mirin-sake mixture and combine well. Stir the mixture vigorously over the low heat to make a smooth paste, taking care not to burn. • Add sugar to the smooth miso mixture and mix well over medium heat until sugar is completely dissolved. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. • Spread half of the cooled miso mixture evenly in a large rectangular container. Place the mackerel fillets on the mixture. Then, spread the remainder of the miso mixture evenly over the fillets. Cover and refrigerate for two to three days. • After two or three days of marinating, take out the mackerel fillets from the miso mixture carefully. Miso cures the fish. Remove any marinade stuck to the fish with a damp kitchen towel. • Grill the fillets until the skin is bubbling and slightly browned. Serve hot and garnish with pickled stem ginger on the side. Reiko Hara is the author of the critically acclaimed International Cuisine-Japan (Hodder Arnold) and former Head of Oriental Cooking at the University of West London. She regularly gives masterclasses in high profile culinary events and is responsible for bringing Japanese haute cuisine to the High Table in the dining halls of St John’s College and Corpus Christies Cambridge, where she trained their head chefs in a wide range of Japanese cooking. Find out more at www. simplyjapanese.co.uk

Continued on page 38

Drinks update

Drink up Tea time with a difference

If you are looking for an alterative to cocktails and champagne this Christmas, why not look to The Lawn s new Rose Tea Syrup? This tea syrup has a hibiscus bite that cuts through the sweet taste of refined rose petals and can be used in tea, or if you d rather, splashed into a glass of fizz. Rose Tea Syrup is the latest in a modern range of specialist tea products from The Lawn and makes the perfect pink stocking filler for cocktail lovers and tea fans.

COCKTAIL CREATIONS

If you like a bloody Mary, then one London bar has just the thing. Barts has launched an entire menu dedicated to the bloody Mary, with several made with Bloodshot Vodka, an artisan liqueur created from over 20 different ingredients. Drinks served at Barts range from Mary Tudor, a blend of Bloodshot, rose jam, fresh lemon juice, sugar syrup and served with a garnish of rose jam on toast, or the Bloody Liability, a heady mix of Belvedere Vodka, Bloodshot, fresh beetroot, fresh lemon juice, honey and a garnish of green salad topped with beetroot and Parmesan shavings. And for the purists, there is the original recipe, Bloodshot Mary.

WINTER WARMTH WITH CHILLI CHOCOLATE

If you fancy spicing up your favourite hot chocolate, then look no further than South Devon Chilli Farm. Now firmly in the grip of the winter weather, hot chocolate becomes a popular choice. But why not consider adding some extra flavour with South Devon Chilli Farm Chilli Drinking Chocolate. This Aztec style hot chocolate drink, which now comes in a stylish kilner jar, gives you twice the warmth of a regular hot chocolate. South Devon Chilli Farm s chilli expert, Steve Waters, recommends melting about 30g-40g (two or three dessertspoons) into hot milk to make the perfect Mexican-style hot chocolate drink. The 200g of flakes in the kilner jar is enough for about eight mugs and when you ve come to the bottom of the jar you can buy a refill pack.

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

The personal Touch If you’re looking for a gift

with a difference this Christmas, why not create your own signature liqueur? Alchemist Dreams make its liqueurs by hand from organic spirits so that you can have whatever flavour you want. Design your own signature flavour and give it to everyone you know, or you could tailor every bottle to suit the recipient. Each bottle is finished with a red ribbon and a hand printed label with your message.

Cosy up with Bottlegreen If you fancy warming up with something soft, you could try the hot cordial range from Bottlegreen. With delicious varieties such as Spiced Berry, Elderflower, and Ginger & Lemongrass, simply add hot water and drink. As well as adding some inner warmth, Bottlegreen cordials are a great option for fruit tea lovers looking for a caffeine free alternative, or a great ingredient to create mulled wine; simply add to red wine and enjoy!

New year detox

Once the indulgence of Christmas is over, many of us like to detox, and what better way than with the humble beetroot. The organisation www.lovebeetroot.com has created a range of new recipes, including this tasty drink, made with beetroot, pink lady apples and grapefruit juice. Beetroot is full of antioxidants so this smoothie is perfect for that post-Christmas detox and one glass contains three of your five a day. There’s no need to core or peel the apples – the juicer does it all for you, and the quantity makes two. Ingredients: • 1 pack vacuum packed natural cooked beetroot • 2 pink lady apples • 1 peeled grapefruit Method: • Put through a juicer. Pour in to glasses and serve.

own a slice of vine

A new concept in wine ownership has been unveiled. The new digital platform MyOrganicVineyard offers the perfect Christmas present by giving an opportunity to become part of an independent vineyard producing award-winning organic wine. Founded by British couple Emma and Simon Jell, this innovative platform enables people to adopt their own vines, discover and learn about the wine making process from experts, follow the progress of their vines throughout the growing season and receive and enjoy the bottles of wine their vines produce. With 20 years experience in digital and social media, Emma and Simon have created an interactive experience, where members can view updates, photos and videos from the vineyard through a mobile app, emails and by logging into a members only part of the MyOrganicVineyard website. You can find out what the weather is like, take part in decisions about how the wine is produced and visit the vineyard itself.

WINTER 2012 FINE FOODIES

Fine Foodie hero

rom Chilli Chocolate

something new to add to the

Mustard to salt with

portfolio.

flower petals, there is

“I keep trying to innovate,”

no doubting the

he says.

innovative brain of Roy

A great example of this is

Anderton-Tyers, or Uncle Roy.

with Chilli Chocolate Mustard,

For he has created hundreds

which has become the

of different recipes for the many

top-selling product in the

products he produces under

mustard range “because it is a

the Uncle Roy Comestible

little bit different”. Then there is

Concoctions brand.

the creation of the range of

From the more unusual

gravy salts.

products, such as the Chilli

“One of the first things we

Chocolate Mustard, flower

started to do after the mustards

petal seasonings and Haggis

was gravy salt. A company

Sauce, to the more traditional

called Burdells did an original

mustards and relishes, Roy has

one but their factory burnt

created a well-loved brand that

down and they disappeared

can be found in delis and food

from the market and we had

halls around the UK.

customers in the deli asking for

“It ‘s all in my head when I make the recipes but I never run out of inspiration,” he says. “We are a family run company and they all keep saying what have I come up with now.” Yet it all started so differently, as Roy’s background is actually as a civil servant. “It started 45 years ago when

it. So we decided to make an

Roy Anderton-Tyers

Fine Foodies celebrates those making great food and drinks. Here, we talk to Founder, Uncle Roys Comestible Concoctions.

old-fashioned gravy salt and we sell 10,000 of that a year,” Roy explained. And so he expanded the range, not with different flavours as some would, but by the use of flower petals! “I thought what else could I do with salt, so decided to make

I was worked first in the Met

we took it on in 1990 and by

came from Sweden, a country

a gourmet range of salt with

Office and then in air traffic

1993 we had put in the first deli

he is familiar with as his wife

flower petals in, which are a very

control. Back then being a civil

counter, and it just kept

hails from there.

colourful mix of flower petals,

servant was very badly paid so I

evolving from there.”

would take part-time jobs and

Called Harvest Time, the

“They don’t do a lot of

herbs, spices and seeds.”

mustard really and a lot are

And this led to the natural

they were often in the food

store sold a wide range of

mild rather than hot so we

creation of a range of flower

industry; I did hotel work, airline

products, and this was at a time

started with a range of

petals, which people use for

catering and was a chef in a

when you couldn’t buy such

mustards, including one hot

things like cupcakes and

fast food place,” Roy recalled.

products in a supermarket. For

one – they were all speciality,

celebration cakes.

example, sun dried tomatoes

something a bit different to

civil service completely, Roy did

were not widely available then,

what was available at the time

don’t go brown when you use

various jobs until purchasing a

in comparison to today where

but that helped enhance food,

them – it is a great way of

village store.

various varieties can be found

not overpower it.”

adding colour,” he added.

When he eventually left the

“They are herbicide free and

“It was great fun but it was

in many food outlets. It was the

Roy took the mustards to

hard work and we decided to

experience of running his own

local shows and shops and the

are fig and fenugreek varieties in

move into something else,” he

deli that inspired Roy to make

business took off. So much so

the extracts range, along with

said.

his own products.

that today the portfolio has

teas and seaweed in the smoked

expanded greatly to include

range, and cranberry apple sauce.

That something else was to

“I’ve always had a very varied

In the pipeline at the moment

purchase a greengrocer in the

career and found myself

ranges of mustards, relishes,

Scottish town of Moffat. And it

getting a little bored so

gravy salts, gourmet salts, fruit

was here Roy’s passion for food

decided to start making some

condiments, natural extracts

really grew.

mustards myself,” he said,

and essences, smoked

Horseradish – I tend to have

“We bought it in 1990 and

adding that he based the first

products and sauces.

that on a sandwich most days,”

gradually it turned into a deli –

products on the mustards that

FINE FOODIES WINTER 2012

And there’s always

And Roy’s own personal favourite product? “I’m partial to the Super

he said. FF