Fine Foodies January/February 2012 by Target Publishing

Issue.6 Vol.1 January/February 2012

Fine Foodies Passionate about good food Picrkfurp ee you ie fooadzine mag

INTERVIEW

Gregg’s the word

THE MASTERCHEF STAR ON HIS MISSION TO SWITCH THE NATION TO RAPESEED OIL

Plus:

January/February 2012

] INDIAN FOOD CULTURE ] WARMING WINTER RECIPES ] MICHELIN STARS EXPLAINED

Sustainable catch

HOW TO SOURCE FISH ETHICALLY AND SUSTAINABLY

Welcome

Fine Foodies Passionate about good food

Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Essex CM22 6HJ Telephone: 01279 816300 www.finefoodiesmag.com Editor: Rachel Symonds e: editor@finefoodiesmag.com t: 01279 810088 Contributing Editor: Sarah Willingham Contributors: Jennifer Britt, Jane Baxter, Monisha Bharadwaj Sub Editor: Jeff Munn-Giddings Group Commercial Manager: Ruth Gilmour e: ruth.gilmour@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810084 Sales Executives: Ben Brooks e: ben.brooks@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810068 Production Daniella Randazzo e: daniella.randazzo@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810097 Design Clare Holland e: clare.holland@targetpublishing.com Administration/Distribution Julie Torkington e: julie.torkington@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810072 Accounts Lorraine Evans e: lorraine.evans@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 816300 Managing Director David Cann e: info@targetpublishing.com

ne of the most positive impacts that the likes of Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall have had on the nation is the awareness they have raised

surrounding the true realities of our food industry. One of the most powerful campaigns has been Hugh’s Fish Fight, which to date has attracted thousands of people’s support, including some very famous faces. It was part of Channel 4’s Big Fish Fight, which hit a raw note with the public; much of the fish we were eating is simply not coming from sustainable sources, fisherman are throwing back, dead, much of what they catch due to EU quotas and, very worryingly, most people were completely unaware of those fish types that were critically endangered. The great effect from these TV shows and campaigns has been the greater awareness they have generated. But the negative is that we still have a huge problem with sustainability, and this is something we explore in this issue of Fine Foodies. Jennifer Britt examines what changes are being made, and offers a valuable insight into how companies can fish sustainably, and what we can all do to make a change. Turn to page 18. Also in this issue, I had the pleasure of interviewing the popular MasterChef presenter, Gregg Wallace. A hugely entertaining character, Gregg is fronting a campaign to promote the benefits of rapeseed oil, and the verdict is pretty overwhelming. At a special event, a panel of experts explained just why rapeseed oil could and should be a real alternative in this country; healthy, sustainable and British made. You can read all about it on page 12. It’s now been a year since we launched the first issue of Fine Foodies, and the last 12 months have been overwhelming; the response from readers has been fantastic and we look forward to an even more successful 2012. On behalf of everyone at Fine Foodies HQ, we’d like to wish you a happy new year and, as always, if you have any comments, thoughts or suggestions, email me at editor@finefoodiesmag.com

Rachel

ISSN 2046-438X

Published by Target Publishing Limited. Printed in the UK by The Magazine Printing Company plc www.magprint.co.uk ©2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material in accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004.

RACHEL SYMONDS

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Sarah Willingham is one of the most successful people in the food industry, best known for appearing alongside top chef Raymond Blanc as an inspector on the popular BBC show, The Restaurant. With two business degrees, the self-confessed foodie most recently was acknowledged as one of the 35 most successful women under 35 in the UK, featured in the Courvoisier Top 500 and in Business Weekly’s Young Entrepreneur of the Year Awards. For over a decade, Sarah has managed some of the biggest brands in the restaurant industry, including Pizza Express International. In 2004, she was part of a consortium which acquired The Bombay Bicycle Club in London, growing it from six restaurants to 17.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES

Fine Foodies

Contents Passionate about good food

ISSUE 6 vOL.1 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

36 12 COvEr StOry

Gregg Wallace The entertaining MasterChef presenter opens up to Fine Foodies

18 24

Recipe Learn how to cook up some sumptuous fish dishes

FEaturES

Recipe Warm up this winter with ideas from the creator of The Slow Cookbook

Food focus Sustainable fishing – Jennifer Britt examines the controversial issues around where our fish comes from

Global foodie Popular food writer Monisha Bharadwaj takes us on a spice sensation through India’s differing food regions

Special feature After a visit to the Michelin-starred Pied a Terre, Sarah Willingham reflects on the importance of these coveted accolades

rEgularS

6 8

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

Letters What you’re talking about this issue Foodie bites What’s going on in the world of fine food

10 11

Shelf life Explore the latest products in store

Sarah’s view Fine Foodies Contributing Editor Sarah Willingham on why everyone likes to be a critic

UK fare Fine Foodies turns its attention to the food heritage of Somerset

In season What’s ideal for eating and cooking with at this time of year? Riverford Organic tells all

Drink up From wines and cocktail ideas to the newest hot drinks

Fine Foodie hero Joe Reade

Letters

Your foodies THE GREAT REVIVAL

Sta Letterr

Interview

I was really interested to read the interview with Antonio Carluccio, and especially his thoughts on beetroot. I have been watching the Great British Food Revival series and I have to say it s been fascinating, none more so than Antonio s show ‒ I was a little indifferent to beetroot, as I think a lot of people probably are, but the show has definitely inspired me to think about different ways of cooking it. Thanks for a great magazine, a really enjoyable read.

Cooking, according to

Carluccio

Most of us have eate Now, Anto n nio Carlucci in one of his resta loved vege uran tables, as o is on a mission to ts, or tried his simp he explains reviv here’s no to Fine Foo e one of Britain’s le Italian dishes. doubting where dies Editor, onc Antonio Carluccio’s remember Rachel Sym e muchroots them as lie. From these little bottle full the still thick onds. balls in a of vinega Italian accent r, the way import them

you find despite his ant. If you in superm are brough arkets. But years in the with food, is amazin t up that recollections fresh beetro UK, to the you remem g.” way ot of his early ber it. They me to becom food memo and favouri Antonio helped sets out to e what I am,” te dishes. ries reverse the Antonio negativity he said. And taste through is Italian surrounding and throug is the most important this root of cookin vegetable, But this month h. g for Antoni aspect and during sees the o – nothin the episod good taste, just how cook join g fancy, just e reveals versatile and that a stellar line-up much-loved it is. has been of many of TV chefs latest series “You will the premis of his TV see me show for the of the Great e demonstrating shows and books you how the beetroo British Food Revival, being – to cook t,” he how easy screened great-tasting it is to whip on BBC2. lasagne withou explained, adding premise The : “I do a of the campa up Italian food. t using pasta igning series slices of cooked “My motto take differen – I use thin is to is Mof Mof… t celebrit beetroot y chefs, who minimum between and then more flavour a type of fuss. I live some smoked I put in explore food that , by that princip was once says. “The ham and Bechamel in recent popular but some le,” he only thing – that’s it times has we must and it’s fantasti become good food idea is to remember less so. The c!” is about rekindle the is taste – don’t nation’s love about the Italian influ foods, and worry look of the of these includes ence food, it is everything that’s most Often describ and peas the from taste import to rhubarb garlic ed as the ant. Italian godfat gastronomy, “I’m not as And for Antoni and rare breed beef. her of creative as Antonio o? He chose was born other cooks. Heston Blumen Amalfi Coast beetroot. on the the humbl in the south thal is hyper e sometimes wooded and raised creative but “I have lived north-west, that hyper in the here for 36 creativity and at the help becaus seven he British produc years and does not age of discovered e no one I find e fantast can cook his life-lon in their own ic,” he says. in huntin the beetro these things g interes g and collect “I love kitchen. Simple ot, I remem t ing mushro major feature ber it from and funghi was growin cooking oms when I is a with his father. of Italian g up.” food.” Yet he believe Antonio Yet the beetro has lived s that simplic ot is not in the UK something years, first way it used in favour ity is not for many Britons always hitting British the to be. In fact, Antoni TV screen follow. early 1980s. “British food episode s in the o’s of Great His first book is fantast British Food ic, there’s vegetables, Invitation was An reveals that Revival fish, to Italian fruit, meat, a worryin Cookin and g first half of our since written it can be g, and he beetroot quality, but really has fields have 13 books, people don’t been lost and made the way popular TV 30 years, always like in the last that other many a trend which shows, includi it in countries cuisine is expect Carluccio’s ng continue, like their Antonio – British food ed to own Northern and this is sufferin is though Italian Feast Cinderella traded for Southern because g a bit of t to be and story.” 26 years. Italian Feast of the way a In 1991, Antoni . He was we in the opened for his books And Antoni its taste. also famed UK perceiv a deli next o o’s favouri on mushro e to the restaur te dish? in 1998 started oms, a passion that still exists “I could cook But this is today. not how the first Carlucc ant and a spaghe Antonio and basil, tti with tomato which began beetroot. But althoug io’s Caffè, remembers very simple the popula h he made . Or I could wonderful r Carlucc chain that UK, it is Antoni his name He points eat a io’s risotto with exists today. in the o’s Italian out: “There truffles if Although looking for roots that longer a shaped his are so many different I was no director, have someth varieties approach he continu ing more and flavour to cookin with the for examp sophisticated.” es to work “My mama s, white, g. Carluccio’s le, but there pink used to cook team on Reviving development has been well, and rejection extremely menu a my Papa of beetro and chef cooking was a fantast ot becaus training. Before finding Antonio The childre e people In 1998, ic critic. was awarde n would his way into d the sit around Antonio Commendato and listen television, the table was first to that – re and taste was foremost 18 restaurateur, Italy for service OMRI by the Preside FINE FOODIE always very a cook and nt of taking over S NOVEMBE s to Italian R/DECEM the Neal Restaurant equivalent gastronomy, BER 2011 Street in Covent of a British the Garden in knighthood. he was awarde 1981, which In 2007 interview. d an honora indd 18 ry OBE. And becaus e his roots he is passion are in cookin ate about g, encouraging

LOUISE ROGERS, BY EMAIL

21/10/11

people to make good food. “We don’t cook these days the used to,” way we he says. “Start and be bold a piece of meat, for – take example, what happen and see s, whethe r you boil roast it, and it or then you learn from it goes wrong it. And if , you don’t have to show anyone! It is all about confidence.” Despite a 50-year cooker there’s still y career, plenty on the horizon for Antonio, who last year filmed Greedy Italians the Two series with and old friend, fellow Italian Gennaro Contaldo. “I’m writing my autobio very enjoya graphy which ble – for is me anyway , and

10:15:08 interview. indd 19

perhaps some more TV next year would like –I to do someth ing about mushrooms,” he says. “I’m find a lot still inspire of interes d, I ting things. reading is A book about 150 years of Italian I’m and so I have food been interes development ted in the of food in the last 150 years.” FF

Great British Food Revival screened is being on BBC2 during Novem and include ber, s names including Roux Jr, Ainlsle Michel y Gregg Wallac Harriot, John Torode , e and Raymo nd Blanc.

NOVEMBE R/DECEM BER 2011

in home-baked

Serves 6-8 45 minutes Chilling time: t: Special equipmen pie dish 23cm (9in) shallow Ingredients: for dusting flour, plus extra • 330g (12oz) plain

• ½tsp salt fat, plus lard or white vegetable • 150g (5½oz) extra for greasing for sprinkling sugar, plus extra • 2tbsp caster glazing • 1tbsp milk, for For the filling: apples • 1kg (2¼lb) tart

• Juice of 1 lemon • 2tbsp plain flour to taste cinnamon, or • ½tsp ground taste nutmeg, or to • ¼tsp grated to taste caster sugar, or • 100g (3½ oz)

comfort food,

this autumn pie

is best served

warm with vanilla

I was really interested to read Sarah Willingham s thoughts about feeding her children; since having my first of three kids five years ago, I ve battled with balancing giving the children food they want to eat, but making sure that it is wholesome and healthy. A year ago, we decided to convert some of our garden to a fruit and vegetable patch and it has made so much difference to the children s attitude to food; they now get excited to come out and help me pick the harvest and decide what we are going to do with it in the kitchen.

us to get back . series inspiring tial techniques British Bake Off es us some essen With the Great p Baking teach n, Step-by-Ste into the kitche

Perhaps the ultimate

ice cream

coat. apples. Toss to and arrange so in the pie dish • Put the apple centre. Brush fat, Method: mounded in the bowl. Add the and salt into a that it is slightly Roll the rest • Sift the flour ded knives. pastry with water. two round-bla the edge of the round. Wrap it cutting it in with the flour to a 28cm (11in) rub the fat into of the dough it over the With your fingertips, to aerate it. pin and drape Lift the mixture around the rolling the edges until crumbs form. six to seven top crust. Press Sprinkle with filling. Trim the the back of a with • Add the sugar. fork. a crimping water. Mix with together to seal, tablespoons cold and chill into a ball, wrap, knife as you go. pull back the Gently • Press the crumbs dish. the top crust. Meanwhile, grease Roll • Cut an x in the for 30 minutes. to reveal the filling. of the dough Roll two-thirds point of each triangle and moisten. • Flour a surface. than the dish. , cut into strips, 5cm (2in) larger out the trimmings pattern. out to a round, pastry over the in a criss-cross pin, drape the Lay on the pie pie with the Using the rolling contours. brush, glaze the push it into the • Using a pastry colour. dish, then gently for 15 bakes to a golden pastry, then chill milk so that it minutes. 30 into • Trim any excess for Chill apples, cut firm. Peel the Sprinkle over sugar. F/Gas 7). minutes until C (425° to 220° of each F/ cut out the cores • Preheat the oven C (350° a 180° to on quarters, and down, Reduce quarter, cut-side Bake for 20 minutes. Insert a quarter. Set each slices. for 30-35 minutes. and cut into medium Gas 4) and bake to check the chopping board and pour on the steam vent slices in a bowl skewer through • Put the apple the Serve warm. Toss to coat. Sprinkle apples are tender. the lemon juice. sugar over the , nutmeg, and flour, cinnamon

ALISON JENKINS, WORCESTER

recipe temp.indd

FINE FOODIES

ECEMBER 2011 NOVEMBER/D

20/10/11 10:00:59

HOMEMADE FARE

Fine Foodies is just great; I still can t believe I can pick it up from my local deli for free! My husband certainly enjoyed the homemade apple pie and vanilla ice cream from the last issue. I look forward to reading the next. KERRY WALKER, CARDIFF

Do you have something that you d like to share with other readers, something that will inspire them, encourage them to visit their local store or is just good news? We d love to hear from you. And, of course, we d also like your comments about the magazine. The winner of the next Star Letter will receive a mixed case of 24 bottles of Luscombe drinks. Based on a farm in deepest Devon, all of Luscombe s drinks are crafted with exceptional care and integrity. Gabriel David, the head of the family owned business, sources the ingredients direct from growers he trusts. There are no compromises, only the best goes in the bottle. Write to: Rachel Symonds, Editor, Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ or email editor@ finefoodiesmag.com

Please indicate below which free giveaway you are applying for and then post this form back to us at Reader Offers , Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ. Please tick:

N Indian in 6

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

Use coconut oil, it s way better for you and crisps well.

@KANDULATEA

Use @yarevalleyoils rape seed oil, truly fab!

@GARYDICKENSON

Par boil then shake up in the pot till fluffy then put in really hot fat (goose is best) then roast. Perfect and crispy.

Please circle

Mr / Mrs / Ms

Full name:

Address:

Postcode:

Contact tel:

Email: Signature:

Or enter online www.finefoodiesmag.com

Par boil Rudolph for a few mins then drain and then shake in the pan in hot fat or oil and roast - enjoy!

@SPACOLOUR

Star letter – could it be you?

READER OFFERS

@JENNIFERCERES

FF JAN/FEB12

Fine Foodies asked the twitter-world how to achieve mouth-watering roast potatoes.

HEALTHY HABITS START YOUNG

Better baking

Recipes

Apple pie

FINE FOODIE S

TWEET CORNER

Date:

From time to time we may wish to make you aware of special offers from carefully selected companies. If you do not wish to receive such offers, please tick this box N

News update

Foodie bites Royal recognition as relish experts receive MBEs The husband and wife owners of the Hawkshead Relish Company have been presented with joint MBEs from the Queen. Mark and Maria Whitehead received the prestigious accolade in recognition of their contribution to the food industry within Cumbria. The Hawkshead Relish Company was founded following the foot and mouth epidemic when Mark and Maria found their cafe devoid of customers and their livelihood threatened. They created a small range of handmade relishes, pickles and preserves, taking them to local shops. Within a few years they had won many awards and the cafe was closed to make space for production, which today is housed in a 16th century barn overlooking Esthwaite water, just a mile from Hawkshead Village. The range, which has expanded to almost 130 products, is still made by hand using traditional open pans and without any additives, preservatives or flavourings, and to date have secured over 40 national and international awards.

KEEpiNg it iN CoRNwAll

Given their geographical heritage, it seems only right that Cornwall’s Eden Project is to host the World Pasty Championships. The new event is to take place at the Eden Bakery between the famous Biomes on March 3 on the Saturday before St Piran’s Day (March 5), which celebrates the national day of Cornwall. The World Pasty Championships at the Eden Project will celebrate the traditional recipe and set the table for amateur and professional bakers to parade their wares. It also has the backing of the Cornish Pasty Association, which upholds the reputation of the pasty and represents more than 50 bakers. Pasties are a big deal in Cornwall; earlier this year after a long campaign the association won European Union Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, which means that only

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

BUsiNEss ovERComEs RECEssioN with thiRd stoRE opENiNg Harrogate is the new home of a gourmet food, wine and hamper business. Lewis & Cooper has added the new store in Harrogate to join existing stores in Northallerton and Yarm. Chairman Dr David Gearey said: “Doom and gloom on the high street is a myth. There’s doom and gloom on some high streets, but not on this high street here, and not in Northallerton and Yarm. Not where you’ve got really good people and good businesses supported by strong local councils prepared to change with the times.”

pasty makers based in Cornwall who make pasties in a traditional manner and follow a traditional recipe are able to label their products as Cornish pasties. “The pasty is one of the great icons of Cornwall and also one of its best exports, carried in the hands of all those hardy mining families who left this coast and who took their skills – and their favourite food – across the world, commented Gaynor Coley, Managing Director of the Eden Project. “The World Pasty Championships at the Eden Project will be a joyous celebration of that tradition and the vibrant industry of today.”

GiviNG thE GiFt oF ChAmpAGNE

Urban enterprise

Watching surplus fruit go to waste, Nigel Baker and Eleanor Hoad were convinced there must be a better way. And now they have proved there was by creating Urban Harvest, a community juice and preserve business which aims to reduce local food waste, cut transport miles and encourage healthy eating. Nigel and Eleanor’s new enterprise will see tonnes of apples, pears and plums transformed into juice, jam and chutney to be consumed by the people who donated their fruit to the scheme in the first place, which will be sold through farmers’ markets, shops and restaurants throughout Birmingham. The scheme, a social enterprise, has been designed to be commercially viable as well as environmentally beneficial and has received start up funding from the UnLtd Millennium Awards Scheme through UnLtd, a national charity, which supports social entrepreneurs. Nigel, a food and environment campaigner, explained: “Eating seasonal, healthy produce which has been locally sourced, eliminating thousands of air and road miles, will be a great thing for the city. It’s crucial that we’re not only about sustainable living, but that we can show others that projects like ours are also financially sustainable in their own right.” Longer term the initiative, which has won the backing of Friends of the Earth and Localise West Midlands, aims to provide placements for people who haven’t had the opportunity to work for some time.

With Valentine’s Day just around the corner, Champagne house Billecart-Salmon is offering a rather extra special treat for one lucky couple. If a couple (or single person!) buys a bottle of Billecart Salmon Rose, Blanc de Blancs or Vintage 2004 Extra Brut on Valentine’s Day, they not only receive a half bottle of rose free upon leaving the restaurant, they also have the chance to enter a fantastic competition where the first prize is a trip to Soneva Kiri in Thailand. Other partners donating a prize include Boucheron, Loewe, La Cornue and Baccarat The story of Billecart-Salmon began in the early 19th century, in the village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, near Epernay. Husband and wife Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon founded their own Champagne House. Today, the Billecart family has remained loyal to Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, and the seventh generation is now at the helm represented by François and Antoine Roland-Billecart under the helpful guidance of their father, Jean RolandBillecart. The house covers around 50 hectares and sources its grapes from 170 hectares, in 35 grands crus of the Champagne region. Furthermore, the bottles are still housed within the confines of the chalk cellars dating from the 17th and 19th century.

Dive for your supper If you’re a fan of scallops, then a new course could be just the thing. The imposing Stonefield Castle, on the banks of Loch Fyne, west coast Scotland, offers a brand new scallop diving and cooking course for qualified divers. After a day on the water and multiple dives, attendees can pluck their own scallops from the Loch bed, head back to base for a special scallop cooking lesson with Head Chef, Oscar, and then enjoy the fruits of your labour. Find out more by calling 01880 820836.

ArtISAN prODUcEr crEAm OF thE crOp Ice cream maker Yummy Yorkshire is celebrating after being recognised in a national award. The producer was highly commended in the Family Business of the Year category at the Food & Farming Industry Awards. Hosted by Countryfile presenter, Adam Henson and held at the House of Commons, the awards seek out the country’s most innovative farmers, producers, processors and retailers. According to the judges, Yummy Yorkshire stood out for the level of family

involvement in the business which they felt gave it strength, as well as for the ‘obvious creative flair’ in the product and packaging. Jeremy Holmes, co-founder of Yummy Yorkshire, said: “We have worked hard to keep the family farm viable in such difficult economic times and awards like this are a nice pat on the back.” The recognition comes after Yummy Yorkshire scooped three awards for its ice cream at the 2011 National Ice Cream Competition.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES

Product news

Shelf Life WHAT S NEW IN THE WORLD OF GREAT-TASTING FOOD

BEST OF BRITISH

A new range of quintessentially British pies has been launched by Walkers. The traditional brand, which has been around since 1824 and is known for its authentic British pies, has created a hot pie range, which includes Supreme Steak and Stilton, Sumptuous Steak and Classic Chicken, White Wine and Mushroom and Glorious Chicken and Chorizo Pie. Flavoured with herbs, spices and complementary ingredients such as stilton and chorizo, each pie is encased in a rich and crisp shortcrust pastry.

LIMITED EDITION FOR TYRELLS

Tyrells has unveiled its winter special edition offering. Sour Cream and Roasted Garlic Potato Crisps are available for five months only, made from small batches of Lady Claire and Lady Rosetta potatoes. And if you run out of time to try the crisps, Tyrells has also launched its Alternatives range. Featuring the brand s new eccentric look, the Alternatives range is made up of three very moreish nibbles; Spicy Coated Peanuts, Habas Fritas and Thai Chilli Rice Crackers.

TURNING UP THE HEAT

Dolloped onto chicken, stirred into sauces and soups, or smothered under a blanket of cheese on toast, Olives Et Al s new Chilli Harissa is a versatile addition to its range. Made with seriously hot chillies, which have been crushed with garlic, coriander, cumin, fennel and paprika, Chilli Harissa can be used in tagines, curries and chillies.

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

VINEGAR VARIETY

Apple & Cranberry Balsamic is the first variety in a series of seasonal speciality vinegars being launched by Aspall. The vinegar works extremely well as an addition to a sauce or gravy with roast meats such as duck, turkey or pork. For a festive side dish it can be drizzled over cooked Brussels sprouts mixed with crispy bacon and walnuts.

INVERAWE S BURN S NIGHT FEAST

The people at Inverawe are getting into the spirit of Burns Night by creating a perfect supper for four. The special pack has been created for Burns Night and includes Inverawe s smoked salmon terrine, which combines smoked salmon mousse with roast smoked salmon flakes, the smokery s classic smoked salmon along with the traditional haggis and a tasty accompaniment of chilli jam. It s finished off with a copy of the Bairds famous poem, Address to a Haggis.

SALTED CARAMEL IN COFFEE?

Coffee specialist Cherizena is getting creative for its latest launch with the new salted caramel flavoured coffee. Combining the rich flavour of caramel with a zingy twist of salt, Cherizena s salted caramel flavoured coffee is perfect for hot drinks as well as cold frappĂŠs. Like all of the coffees in Cherizena s 20-strong flavoured range, the salted caramel flavour contains no syrups and no coatings.

Regular bite

Sarah’s view

Each issue, Fine Foodies Contributing Editor, Sarah Willingham, gives her view. This issue, she talks about the growing ‘critic’ culture, questioning how reliable restaurant reviews are.

alking to David

a business.

I was incensed last month;

So when is a review

I’ve had lots of restaurants

Fay Maschler from The Evening

reliable? And as customers

trials and

over the years but I’ve always operated a business; much

Standard had been in to visit my friend’s restaurant just two days after opening and during a soft launch. You see, as an operator I think that’s just peevish! A restaurant two days after opening during a soft, very low-key launch is never going to reflect the quality of the restaurant in a month’s time. But she slated them and, I have to say, wrongly and unfairly. I was lucky; Fay Maschler visited me a couple of times but after I’d been open a while, we knew what we were doing and were in a position to be judged. But to visit an excellent chef, trying to make it for the first time on his own, on the second day of opening during a soft launch is too much. Is that really a true reflection of the quality of this restaurant? No it isn’t. And guess what – it’s the first thing that comes up if you Google this new restaurant. As a customer you’ll just book somewhere else.

who do we listen to? David is

tribulations of

Moore about the

being a Michelin-starred

lower spend per head and

restaurant has made me think.

much higher volume. I’ve

The environment for any

never been affected by

food operator nowadays is

Michelin guides and even all

tougher than ever. Reviews,

those damning reviews that

ratings, blogs, and opinions

can make or break a restaurant

are just a simple Google away

are diluted by the number of

and the result is that many

people who pass through the

restaurant ‘critics’ hold the

door.

power to make or break even

You are only as good as

the best. Their opinion, their

your last meal and the seat

rant, their praise is there for

turn is so low in fine dining

everyone to see. Often when

that the pressure is extreme

you Google a restaurant or

for every single service.

even a food product, the first

The power of these critics

few hits that come up aren’t

and guides is extraordinary.

even the restaurant website,

Who goes anywhere now

they are the opinion of

without checking out Trip

someone who has probably

Advisor? But as an operator

only visited the restaurant

it’s a curse. How easy is it to

once and whose view is no

write terrible reviews about

doubt extremely subjective.

your competitor? How easy is

A friend of mine opened his

it to write amazing reviews

first restaurant last month. It’s

about yourself? The question

a tough one, because it’s just

is, who can we trust? Like

off the beaten track and it’s

everything in life, power

aspiring Michelin star food.

comes with great

Assemblage in Spitalfields,

responsibility.

bringing me around to the virtues of the Michelin guide. I now realise the work and effort that, more often than not, goes into giving a restaurant a rating. They will visit a restaurant four or five times during a year before issuing a star rating. That’s reliable opinion and one that we foodies can trust. As a result I’ve downloaded the app onto my phone and am happy to open it up wherever I am to get their recommendation for tonight’s dinner. The rest, I would say, take with a pinch of salt. Get as many views of people you know and check out the restaurant – a foodie knows as soon as they walk through the door if it’s going to be good or not. FF • Turn to page 36 to read about Sarah’s visit to Michelin-starred Pied à Terre.

London, is James’ dream, having trained with Gordon Ramsay and alongside Raymond Blanc and Gary Jones at Le Manoir. He’s very good but still it’s going to be tough. Having a Michelin-starred restaurant is not easy and aspiring to get one is even harder. It’s a dream before it’s

january/february 2012 FINE FOODIES

Interview

Gregg Wallace and the rapeseed oil revolution

We re used to cooking with olive oil, right? But what about an alternative that is sustainable, British, and with impressive health benefits? An engaging Gregg Wallace explained all to Fine Foodies Editor, Rachel Symonds.

s one half of the

campaign hosted by a coalition of

presenting duo on BBC s

premium British rapeseed oil producers,

prime time show,

with the aim being to educate the nation

MasterChef, Gregg Wallace gets asked to put his face to many a campaign. Most of them will be turned down. Yet Gregg jumped at the chance to front a

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

about the benefits of this lesser-used oil. Very rarely do I get involved with

It helps that rapeseed oil is a British product, grown on farms in this country. Because of the trend towards home grown and local, which is what France, Italy and Spain have been doing for years,

anything I see as campaigning, but this

chefs here started looking around for

one I was very, very keen to get involved

something else that was closer to home.

in, Gregg explained.

And that s how I started to hear about

“Rapeseed oil is lower in fat, and you can cook it at a higher temperature without damaging it, yet it is olive oil that is in the recipe books,” he pointed out. Adam added: “I have been a chef for 23 years and we are used to using olive oil in cooking. But a friend gave me a bottle to try and it was amazing. It can be used for shallow frying, deep-frying, roasting. It changed the way I cook and the way I think about cooking.” And there’s also the locally-sourced aspect. When you consider that we still import some 27 million litres of olive oil into Britain each year, imagine the impact on UK farming if we started using more rapeseed oil. “It is British, and we should be promoting our farms, our products from this country. It is more cost effective, there is a low carbon footprint, and it is sustainable – it ticks all the boxes,” Adam said. Discussion also focused on what is known as the smoke point. The higher the smoke point, the more health rapeseed oil. What I didn’t realise was how

“Rapeseed oil is going to happen; there

benefits the oil retains during cooking.

much lower in fat it was than olive oil,”

is a revolution happening and I believe it

Gregg said.

will take its place as an important culinary

point, it stops being good for you and

ingredient,” Gregg said.

it becomes as bad as butter does,” Dr

And so, to get this message across Gregg fronted the launch of the

“If you cook oils above their smoke

Jarvis explained. “Sunflower oil would

campaign by six premium British

Changing food culture

rapeseed oil producers – Wharfe Valley,

Gregg is realistic that to see increased use

rapeseed oil has a higher smoke point.

Just Oil, Hillfarm Oils, Fussels Fine Foods,

of rapeseed oil in the UK, we need to be

And the really interesting thing is with a

Farringtons and Borderfields – along with

educated about its benefits. Which is no

lot of olive oils there is a huge difference

a panel of experts including The One

mean feat considering the majority of

in smoke point between refined and

Show ’s Dr Sarah Jarvis, and top chef Adam Gray, from Rhodes Twenty Four.

us automatically reach for olive or

unrefined, whereas with rapeseed oil

sunflower oil.

there is no difference.”

reach its smoke point quickly but

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES

Interview A talented nation Gregg clearly believes passionately in spreading the word about rapeseed oil. He must do to give time to such a campaign while being a pretty busy man; there’s the current airing of MasterChef

The Professionals, filming a new series of MasterChef, as well as being involved in The Great British Food Revival. So, why get involved? “I want people to question themselves and question how rapeseed oil can help them. From the local aspect, the supporting of our farmers, to the benefits to health – the whole of the country is going to turn to it,” he told me. “And it makes the most amazing roast potatoes!” There’s no doubt that Gregg knows about British produce. He began his career selling vegetables at a stand in

Gregg with the panel of experts

Covent Garden before starting George Allan’s Greengrocers in 1989, a company

knocking in 2005. The partnership between he and co-

that built up to an eventual turnover of

presenter John Torode is undoubtedly a

£7.5 million. His TV career kicked off with

big part of the revived popularity in the

Veg Talk on Radio 4 followed by other programmes before MasterChef came

series, so much so that it was moved from BBC2 to BBC1. “The talent on MasterChef is always

Rapeseed oil explained

rising – we have to check out everyone’s

Let’s be honest, the majority of us

vitamin E, which helps preserve the omega 3

use olive oil for cooking, and perhaps

content in cooking.

professionals because we just can’t

extra virgin olive oil for the table and

• It can help balance the ratio of good and

salads.

bad cholesterol. Dr Jarvis explained: “A lot of

And while olive oil is arguably healthier than the likes of vegetable oil, there is

and those people are much more likely to

another type that offers huge health

have a heart attack than those that have high

benefits, and that’s rapeseed oil. This

bad cholesterol. Rapeseed oil particularly

increasingly popular culinary oil is, in

improves the ratio between LDL and HDL.

market terms, worth £5.9m.

That ratio is most likely to predict the risk of

Rapeseed oil is pretty distinctive,

cardiovascular disease.”

both for its rich golden colour and its

• Despite rapeseed being connected to hay

subtle taste, and Sam Fairs, representative

fever, it may actually have the opposite effect,

of the Premium British Rapeseed Oil

as Sam suggested some people find it has a

Consortium, pointed out that there

desensitising effect.

are around 30 different varieties of

• When you substitute olive oil for rapeseed

rapeseed oil.

oil you can substitute like for like. When you

But why exactly is it good for you? The panel offered some important facts:

• Rapeseed oil contains just six per cent

saturated fat, compared to 14 per cent in olive oil and 10 per cent in sunflower oil.

• It has a higher smoke point than many other oils. This means that you can cook

rapeseed oil to a higher temperature than other types of oil and you will still retain all the health benefits.

• Rapeseed oil has the right balance of omega 6 and omega 3. It also contains

people have low levels of good cholesterol

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

substitute for butter you have to take into account butter has a water content therefore you usually need more to substitute for the water content.

backgrounds to make sure they are not believe these are amateur chefs,” he says. “They all have completely different cooking styles and there is so much more science coming into cooking now. It has taken the competition to a new level. We are getting a lot more ethnically diverse cooking too, which is really exciting.” When I questioned which winner of

MasterChef stuck in his mind, while recognising all are individually unique and talented, Gregg says: “Thomasina Myers is an incredible woman; she stands out, she has done so well to build a chain of restaurants. Mat Follas was an unbelievable cook too and Dhruv Baker reached another level by bringing in so many Asian influences. We really do find some incredible people.” The future is looking busy and bright for Gregg, with filming a new series of MasterChef out next year. He has also been asked to write his memoirs. But given he has seen and sampled all manner of cuisine – good and bad – what remains a favourite? “Roast leg of lamb is a favourite, followed by rhubarb crumble.” No doubt the rapeseed oil will take pride of place in his kitchen! FF

UK fare

Sumptuous

Somerset Translated to ‘the land of the summer people’, Somerset has a food heritage to be proud of

rom the fields at Glastonbury

Authentic heritage

to the Exmoor coastline,

There’s no doubt that cheddar cheese is

Somerset has some rather

Somerset’s most famous export and its

famous landmarks.

inhabitants are rightly proud of this.

In fact, some two thirds of

Cheddar cheese has been made at the

Exmoor National Park falls within

town of Cheddar for more than 800 years

Somerset, and impressively the county

but these days it is made in many different

also has three designated Areas of

parts of the world. However, to be able to

Outstanding Natural Beauty, which

call a product Farmhouse Cheddar it must

includes the Mendip Hills.

have been made on farms in the West

As well as its stunning scenery,

Country according to the region’s

Somerset has a food heritage to be proud

traditional methods with milk from the

of; the county, after all, is where cheddar

region’s cows. This is regulated by the

cheese comes from, and it boasts more

Protected Designation of Origin (PDO)

than 400 varieties of cider apples, being

status, which is designed to protect the

considered one of the biggest producers

names and history of traditional foods.

of the drink. As a region, food and farming is big

Farmhouse cheddar must be made using milk from local herds that have been

business, and it is thought to have among

reared and milked in the counties of

the highest number of food producers in

Somerset, Dorset, Devon or Cornwall,

any UK county.

which ensures that the cheese has a

particular texture and flavour. It must also not contain any colouring, flavouring and preservatives. It has to be made and matured on the farm and aged for at least nine months. There is even an organisation, West Country Farmhouse Cheesemakers, which represents a range of producers in the region. Cider is also a major export of Somerset, with traditional ‘scrumpy’ being a common variety. But it’s not only cider; there are actually vineyards in Somerset producing English wine. It is also well known for producing rather tasty ice cream made from clotted cream.

FINE FOODIES january/february 2012

High standards Producers in Somerset have proved their worth over the years, picking up a number of awards. For example, this year, Cheddar

Festival feast

The region plays host to a number of annual food festivals often in the month of October, traditionally coinciding with the harvest. One worth of note is the Exmoor Food Festival, a 10-day event, which includes food

Gorge Cheese Company took silver and

fairs, food walks and cider trails and gives people the chance to celebrate all that is

bronze accolades at the World Cheese

good about the region’s food and drink offering.

Awards.

• Visit www.exmoorfoodfestival.co.uk for more information.

Most recently, in an effort to recognise the county’s quality and diversity, Somerset

where feasible plant traditional varieties of

Life magazine created the Food & Drink Awards. In the 2011 accolades, Best Drinks Producer went to Thatchers Cider, while Best Food Producer went to Red Barn Farm Shop, in Yeovil. Maintaining standards is also important and one such example of this is the organisation Levels’ Best. When you buy Levels’ Best approved products, the producers have had to demonstrate conservation land management, animal welfare, rear native breeds of livestock and

plants and seeds within the 260 square miles of the Somerset Levels and Moors. Somerset is also the proud owner of a

are certified organic. Then there is Sharpham Park, a 300-acre organic estate set deep in the Somerset countryside. The Estate is owned by Roger

range of popular brands that are situated

Saul, the founder of British designer label

in the county.

Mulberry and it is there that they grow and

Yeo Valley is one such company, and has even featured the Somerset landscape

mill spelt. Naturally, cheese producers are in

in its two massively successful TV adverts,

abundance, and include the likes of

which were aired during the last two

Barbers, which has been making cheese in

seasons of X Factor. The company was

Somerset for 177 years, and Godminster,

founded by Roger and Mary Mead, who

which is just celebrating a decade in

bought the farm in 1961, and its products

business. FF

january/february 2012 FINE FOODIES

Food focus

The perfect catch Jennifer Britt investigates the growing issues around depleted fish stocks... and explains how you can enjoy fish the sustainable way.

“I

magine a world without

Organisation reported that the proportion

Campaigning for change

fish, urged environmental

of marine fish stocks estimated to be in

For a start, the UK has led the way in

campaigner Charles Clover,

plentiful supply or only moderately

championing sustainable fishing. And

in his 2009 End of the Line

exploited is down to 15 per cent.

recent television coverage and

documentary.

It was a powerful plea for change to

Aquaculture ‒ fish farming in floating

campaigning has increased awareness

cages, ponds and tanks or on floating

and demand among the general public,

avoid the appalling scenario predicted by

rope ‒ now accounts for 50 per cent of

according to David Parker, Fisheries Officer

some scientists of most seafood being lost

fish eaten in the world and offers one

at the Marine Conservation Society.

by halfway through this century.

solution to overfishing wild stocks, but it

On the one hand, we want to eat more

The society is a British charity working to

can also bring huge problems of its own,

protect marine life around our coasts.

fish because it s such a healthy and

including pollution. Farmed fish also have

Despite similar names and acronyms, it is

delicious food, a valuable source of omega

to be fed and ensuring that their feed,

completely independent of the similarly

3 essential fatty acids and low fat protein.

whether from land or sea, is itself

named Marine Stewardship Council (MSC),

produced sustainably is going to be a

which runs the international certification

huge challenge for the future.

scheme for sustainable fisheries.

Yet the plight of the world s seas and oceans can stop us in our tracks on the way to the fish counter.

The stark reality

Dolphins trapped by methods such as

This increased awareness and demand

long lines or purse-seiner boats, with their

is a big step forward in making sustainable

nets that close like purses, are the most

fish, fishing and farming, the only option,

Without a doubt it is alarming that at least

emotive symbol of destructive and

says Parker

three quarters of fish stocks, possibly

wasteful tuna fishing but sharks, turtles and

more, are already depleted or under

unwanted fish, including juveniles from

restaurants are giving consumers who

pressure, even without taking into

threatened tuna species are also victims.

want to eat fish responsibly more choices

Secondly, fish producers, shops and

account future consequences of climate

It will take decades of vigilance to

change and the growing appetites of an

safeguard our blue planet. Yet, there is

increasing world population.

good news right now about the future of

Foundation into how much the End of

fish.

the Line film had swayed opinion makers

In 2010 the UN s Food and Agriculture

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

than they had even two years ago. A study by the Channel 4 Britdoc

found that one direct result was that chefs

commitment to do the right thing and the

skipjack in organically certified olive oil.

such as Angela Hartnett, Joel Robuchon,

lead taken by some really big companies,

The tuna is from the Azores, where local

Giorgio Locatelli and Tom Aikens

he says, citing Sainsbury s, M&S, Bird s Eye

fishing and the fish factory operate not

removed bluefin tuna, a species under

and Young s (part of Findus) with its Fish

only to high environmental standards but

critical threat, from their menus.

for Life policy as examples of good

have a hugely positive impact on local

Corporates which changed their fish

practice. Young s has initiated all kinds of

employment. The fishing fleet boasts the

sourcing policies included PrĂŞt A Manger

projects and supported and encouraged

smallest boat in the world tuna industry.

and Whiskas cat food, which said it was

fisheries that are over-exploiting fish to

switching to sustainable sources of fish...

change their practices.

fish, through its fishmeal by-product,

Redfern, who is also the MD of organic

Fish 4 Ever works only with fisheries whose methods and equipment are targeted to achieve near-zero by-catch of

feeds dogs as well as cats, poultry, pigs,

food company, Organico, set up Fish 4

other sea life. When it comes to tuna the

cattle, mink and farmed fish.

Ever because he saw a gap in the market.

company will only buy fish caught by

A flood of greenwashing, or bluewashing as Charles Redfern, the founder of sustainable canned fish brand Fish 4 Ever, puts it, is a risk. When you get a groundswell, everyone joins in so we are going to see sustainable claims all over the place and whether or

I have no romantic stories to tell you of my father being a fisherman, he says. But his experience and commitment to

pole and line.

The quota issue

the demands of organic food and farming

Another critical issue in fishing is fish

meant he has sourced sustainable fish with

discarded because of European

the same rigour and holistic approach.

regulation. The main focus of Hugh

The Marine Stewardship Council

Fearnley Whittingstall s continuing Fish

not it is really sustainable is really hard for

certifies the majority of his range and the

Fight campaign is reform of the Common

consumers to work out, says Redfern, who

remaining 30 per cent of products are

Fisheries Policy and its crude instrument

founded Fish 4 Ever 10 years ago.

sourced for ethical and environmental

of protection, the quota system. The Fish

reasons from small fisheries not yet MSC

Fight s lead headline is that half the fish

Sustainable sourcing

certified. All have catch-to-can traceability.

caught in the North Sea are thrown back

However, although it could be tempting

The company can even name the boat

dead.

for Redfern, as a pioneer, to be sweepingly

that caught your fish.

anti-corporate, he says that would be inaccurate and simplistic. In my many travels in fish I have been impressed by what I have seen of the

Fish 4 Ever s range includes mackerel,

Rob Wing, founder of Cornish fish merchants Wing of St Mawes, a

sardines, anchovies, kippers, herring

wholesaler and online retailer, agrees that

salmon yellowfin, albacore and skipjack

a quota system that allows all fish landed

tuna. It is launching a new range of

to be kept is one essential part of

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES

Food focus preserving fish stocks. “We need a quota system that allows for all fish that are landed to be kept. If we could stop fish being wasted we would be leaving much more fish in the sea,” says Wing, who sits on the board of Sea Food Cornwall and was a member of the groups that shaped and managed the European Social Fund-financed overhaul of the Cornish fishing industry. Like everyone who knows about fish, Wing cautions about jumping to easy conclusions and assumptions about what is good and bad in fishing because sustainability is such a complex tangled net of issues. Cornish fishermen, “those singular, secretive people”, have largely been authors of their own good news story. Although

anger sometimes at European policy, but

stocks of cod in some UK waters, for

with a determination to ensure a thriving

example, are at desperately low levels, the

future for this traditional regional industry.

numbers of fish in the seas around South

Unlike cold northern UK waters, the

West England are at a healthy and

warmer seas of the South West are a

sustainable level.

Clapham Junction of fish varieties.

This was not achieved without pain – the

Persuading the British public to eat

broadening their fish experience.

Cornish fishing fleet has been reduced by

more adventurously is key to protecting

40 per cent over the last decade – but

threatened species, and Wing is delighted

and coley as we do cod and haddock,” he

“We now sell as much gurnard, dab

fishermen have co-operated, not without

that his online customers are constantly

says. FF

The do list for buying sustainable fish

• Use the Marine Conservation Society’s

herbivorous fish has been farmed around

usually have lower stocking densities,

Good Fish Guide. It has a website, www.

the world for centuries. Now a group of

higher environmental standards and use

goodfishguide.co.uk, a downloadable

farmers in Lincolnshire and Yorkshire are

sustainable feed. Kinvara Salmon, for

pocket guide and a phone app coming

farming tilapia and selling them under

example, is farmed in the Atlantic Ocean,

soon. There’s plenty of fish on the ‘Eat’ list,

their Fish Company brand. The fish are fed

four miles off the coast of County Mayo in

including cod and haddock from waters

on sustainable feed, are not hormone

the west of Ireland. Strong currents help

where the stock is in healthy numbers.

treated and are reared in closed system

reproduce conditions that resemble the

There is also a ‘Think’ category of fish to

designed to prevent disease and the

fish’s natural habitat. Swimming against

eat just occasionally as well as the ‘Avoid’

need for antibiotics.

the current produces a firm fleshed fish

list.

• Look for the Marine Stewardship

with lower than average fat content.

• Ask questions such as what species of

Council (MSC) seafood label for fish that

• Support the blue fish-rated

fish is this, where and how was it caught

comes from fisheries that have good

restaurants, ranging from chip shops to

or farmed, is it endangered or on any red

sustainable practices.

Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’

list? “Any fishmonger, restaurant or retailer

• Remember the Aquaculture

Saisons, listed on www.fishtofork.com. The

worth their salt should be able to answer

Stewardship Council (ASC). In future, the

good guys rate between one and five

these questions,” advises David Parker, of

ASC label will guarantee standards of

blue fish, the ones who need to improve a

the Marine Conservation Society.

farmed fish. The first ASC-labelled

little or a lot between one to five red fish.

• Eat a wider variety of fish... coley or

products will soon be on sale in the

Envy the citizens of Stonehaven, in

gurnard instead of cod, mackerel or

Netherlands, Germany and Switzerland,

Aberdeenshire, where the local chippy,

pilchards instead of tuna.

although it will be a year or so before we

The Bay, rates four blue fish and is the first

• Avoid critically endangered species

see them in British shops.

fish and chip restaurant in the UK to

such as skate, European eel, spurdog and

• In the meantime, choose an organic

achieve Marine Stewardship Council

bluefin tuna.

label when buying farmed fish, such as

(MSC) chain of custody certification, for its

• Discover tilapia. This freshwater

salmon, trout or cod. Organic farms

haddock.

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

In season

Good

greens

he days are short, the sun, when we see it, is low, the soil is finally cold and dormant and nothing is growing as we wait for

a new season to begin. On the coastal fringes, any mild spells

bring on occasional flushes of cauliflower and perhaps the first purple sprouting

growth and are at their best after some

carrots, winter squash, onions, beetroot

broccoli, but for greens, seasonal eaters

hard winter weather. Leeks are a stalwart

and celeriac. All are good roasted, used to

are mainly dependent on what grew

as long as the ground is not frozen hard

bulk out stews or made into creamy,

before Christmas and is hardy enough to

enough to stop veg growers harvesting

bubbling gratins to warm up dark days.

withstand the frost and battering of

them. You will find that, as the winter

Embrace the season and its widely

winter gales.

progresses, they get shorter and stouter,

available roots and greens; wrap up,

normally with darker leaves.

hunker down and get casseroling to your

Savoy and January King cabbages and the kales all seem to benefit from slower

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

It s time to look also to potatoes,

heart s content. FF

Recipes by Jane Baxter, Riverford Field Kitchen

Bacon, leek and potato gratin Serves 6 Ingredients: • 2 leeks, sliced • 1 knob of butter • 100g bacon, cooked and chopped • 300ml double cream • 100ml milk • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 800g potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-3mm thick slices • 1-2tbsp freshly grated parmesan • Sea salt and black pepper Method: • Sweat the leeks in butter for 10 minutes, then add the bacon and garlic. Add the cream and milk and bring to the boil. • Season and mix in the potatoes. Transfer to a gratin dish. Cover with foil and bake at 180° C for about 50 minutes, until potatoes are tender. • Remove the foil, sprinkle with parmesan and bake for another 10 minutes, until golden brown.

Beetroot haters’ soup Serves 4 Taken from the Riverford Farm Cook Book Ingredients: • 2tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, chopped • 1 potato, peeled and diced • 2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, grated or finely chopped • Grated zest of 1 orange, plus extra to serve (optional) • Juice of 2 oranges • 3 medium beetroots, cooked and cut into small dice • 1.2 litres water • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper • A little cream or yoghurt, to serve (optional)

Method: • Heat the oil in a large pan, add the onion and fry until soft but not coloured. Add the potato and ginger and fry for three minutes. • Add the orange zest and juice, plus the beetroot and water, then bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes, until the potato is tender. Blend until smooth. Reheat gently and season to taste. • Serve garnished, if you like, with a swirl of cream or yoghurt and a little grated orange zest.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES

Recipes

Fish fare Get creative in the kitchen and take inspiration from the latest cookbook, Fish: Recipes From the Sea.

Salmon trout with pumpkin and horseradish (Trota salmonata con salsa di zucca e rafano)

Serves 6

Preparation time: 20 minutes plus 1hr standing Cooking time: 25-35 minutes Ingredients: • 350g chopped pumpkin • 2tbsp caster (superfine) sugar • 1tbsp balsamic vinegar • 100g (3oz) horseradish, peeled and coarsely chopped • 50g shelled walnuts • 2-3tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing • 900g (2lb) salmon trout fillets • Salt and pepper • Alternative fish: salmon or char Method: • Put the pumpkin into a heatproof dish, put it in the top of a steamer and cook for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and pass it through a sieve (strainer) into a bowl. Stir in the sugar and balsamic vinegar, season with salt and let stand for at least one hour. Put the horseradish and walnuts into a blender or food processor and process, then stir the mixture into the pumpkin purée. Stir in olive oil to taste. • Brush a large non-stick frying pan or skillet with oil and set over medium heat. Add the fish fillets and cook for three minutes on each side (you may need to do this in batches). Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately, passing the pumpkin purée separately.

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

Swordfish layered with vegetables and thyme (Millefoglie di pesce spada e verdure al timo)

Serves 4

Preparation time: 20 mins plus five minutes standing Cooking time: 45 minutes Ingredients: • 1 courgette (zucchini) cut into long, thin slices • Olive oil, for brushing and drizzling • 2 potatoes, sliced into thin rounds • 1tbsp chopped thyme • 1x400g (14oz) swordfish fillet, cut into thin slices • Grated zest of 1 lemon • Salt and pepper • Alternative fish: monkfish or tuna Method: • Preheat the grill (broiler). Spread out the courgette (zucchini) slices on a baking sheet, lightly brush with oil and grill (broil)

for four to five minutes, until lightly coloured. Turn over, lightly brush with oil and grill for another four to five minutes, then transfer to a plate. Repeat with the potato rounds. Drizzle with a little oil, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle one teaspoon of the thyme and let stand for the flavours to mingle. • Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 150ºC/ 300ºF/Gas Mark 2. Line a baking sheet with greaseproof (wax) paper. Brush the swordfish pieces with oil, and sprinkle with the remaining thyme and the grated lemon zest and season with salt and pepper. • Make four stacks, alternating a layer of fish pieces with a layer of vegetables, ending with a layer of fish. Bake for about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand for five minutes, then transfer to a serving platter and serve.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES

Recipes

Gnocchi with mussels and saffron (Gnocchi alle cozze e zafferano) Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Ingredients: • 2tbsp olive oil • 1 garlic clove, peeled • 250g (9oz) shelled mussels • 350g (12oz) tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped • Pinch of saffron threads, lightly crushed • 2tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley • Salt and pepper For the gnocchi: • 1kg (2lb) potatoes

Serves 4

Method: • To make the gnocchi, steam the potatoes for 25-30 minutes, until tender, then mash in a bowl or pass through a potato ricer into a bowl while they are still hot. Stir in the flour, egg and a pinch of salt and knead to a soft elastic dough. Shape the dough into long rolls about 1.5cm in diameter, then cut into 2cm lengths. Press them gently against the side of a grater and spread out on a lightly floured dish towel. • To make the sauce, heat the olive oil with the garlic clove in a saucepan. When it begins to colour, remove and discard the garlic. • Add the mussels and tomatoes to the pan

and cook for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, put the saffron into a small bowl, add a little lukewarm water and let soak. Stir the saffron and its soaking water into the sauce, season with salt and pepper, stir in the parsley and remove from the heat. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the gnocchi in batches and cook until they rise to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and add to the sauce. When all the gnocchi have been added, transfer to a serving dish and serve immediately.

• 200g plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting • 1 egg, lightly beaten • Salt • Alternative fish: baby squid or clams

Fish: Recipes From the Sea, £24.95, is published by Phaidon 2012. Visit www.phaidon.com for more information. 26

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

In your store DISCOVER THESE PRODUCTS IN STORE NOW THE ARTISAN BAKER’S CHOICE

Gilchesters is a busy family-run business in the beautiful county of Northumberland. They pride themselves on the fact that the delicious baking you do with their flours, the Spelt biscuits you nibble with your cheese, all started as grain in their fields. Once harvested they get their mill stones grinding and let the flour flow… Gilchesters ranges of organic flours are finely stone-ground, full of flavour and the artisan baker s choice! Their savoury Spelt biscuits are handcrafted and ideal to accompany cheese, patés or just when you need a naughty nibble. Packed with goodness ‒ even wheat-sensitive customers can enjoy them for Spelt is a healthy and delicious alternative to wheat. Call 01661 886119 or email info@gilchesters.com

HEDGEROW HARVEST ABUNDANCE

The award-winning Agnes Rose range of inspired Oils & Vinegars presents itself to Autumnal dining with a fruity and decadent abundance of the hedgerow harvest. Combining perfectly with seasonal fare these are the essential kitchen condiments ensuring everyday s menu is a culinary creation to be savoured.The range of infused vinegars mingling regional originality with Lyth Valley Damsons to an autumn medley of Blackberry & Mint wonderful in sauces, casseroles and marinating whilst oils suffused with garden herbs adding an explosion a flavour the roasts as well as dressings. For more information visit: www.agnesrose.co.uk or tel: 07775 781251.

TURKISH DELIGHT – ORGANIC FRUIT JUICES

Organic Village s range of delicious authentic juices are pressed from fruit grown in the organic orchards of Anatolia, Turkey, bursting with goodness. The 200ml bottles (rrp £1.29) are ideal on the go. The 1ltr bottles (rrp £3.50) are great for all the family. Both options provide organic quality at truly affordable prices. All seven flavours ‒ Pomegranate, Cherry, Peach, Apricot, Strawberry, Red Apple and Red Grape - are Soil Association certified-organic. The range is made with 100% pure fruit juice, not from concentrate, with no added water and no added sugar. From natural health stores and delis. Visit www.organicvillage.org

DRINK REAL TEA

Quality tea company teapigs is on a mission to get UK tea drinkers to drink real tea . teapigs define real tea to be quality whole leaf not the dusty stuff found in most of the nation s paper teabags. When tea drinkers get to taste the flavour that quality whole leaf delivers, they experience what real tea actually tastes like. teapigs present a range of whole leaf teas and herbal infusions in individual biodegradable mesh tea temples making preparing quality whole leaf tea so much easier. Tea drinkers who want to join in can sign up to the mission. For more information visit www.teapigs.co.uk

SIMPLICITY AND CREATIVITY RE-DISCOVERED

Karimix s award-winning recipes offer a range from the sublime and tantalising taste of the Far East to eclectic fusion flavours. This year Karimix launched an exciting range with a brand new image and taste. Try their new chilli jams and sauces ‒ from a delightfully piquant take on Thai Sweet Chilli Sauce, a fresh Ginger and Jalapeño Jam, all the way through to the explosive heat and bursting flavours of the Naga Chilli Sauce. The Guild of Fine foods has awarded Karimix more than 12 commendations for its creative flavours and innovative cooking solutions. Karimix ‒ dedicated to bringing back the simplicity and creativity to cooking. Call Karimix on 01233 813126.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES

Recipes

Winterwarmers The cold weather is upon us, so dust off the slow cooker and get creative with some sumptuous recipe ideas from The Slow Cookbook.

Pea, ham and potato soup Serves: 4-6

A firm favourite with everyone, this soup tastes even better served the next day. Go easy on the salt when adding seasoning as the ham may be salty enough for most people s taste. Prep: 15 minutes Freeze up to three months In the slow cooker: Cook auto/low for eight hours or high four hours, then auto/low eight hours or high four hours Ingredients: • 1.1kg (21⁄2lb) unsmoked ham • 1 bay leaf • 1tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 1tbsp Dijon mustard • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2 sprigs of rosemary • Handful of thyme, leaves only • 900ml (1½ pints) hot beef stock for the slow cooker (1.2 litres/2 pints for the traditional method) • 450g (1lb) frozen peas • 3 potatoes, peeled and chopped into bitesized pieces Method: • Preheat the slow cooker, if required. Sit the ham and bay leaf in the slow cooker and cover with 900ml (1½ pints) of water. Cover and cook on auto/low for eight hours or on high for four hours, then remove the ham and set aside. Discard the stock, or strain and reserve a little to add to the soup. • Heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan over

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

a medium heat, add the onion, and cook for three to four minutes until soft. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the mustard, garlic, and herbs (reserve some thyme leaves for garnish). Add a little stock and bring to the boil, then tip in the peas (if you prefer them puréed, pulse them gently in a liquidiser or use a stick blender).

Traditional method

• Transfer to the slow cooker, add the remaining stock and the potatoes, cover, and cook on auto/low for eight hours or on high for four hours. Remove any fat from the ham, chop into bite-sized pieces, and stir into the soup. Taste and season as needed. Garnish with the reserved thyme leaves and serve with wholemeal bread.

Prep: 15 minutes Cook: 2 hours

• Add the ham and bay leaf to a large pan, cover with 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water and bring to the boil. Partially cover, reduce to a simmer, and cook for about one hour or until the ham is cooked. • Skim away any scum that comes to the surface of the pan as you go. Discard the stock, or strain and reserve a little to add to the soup. Set the ham aside until cool enough to handle. • Heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan over a medium heat, add the onion, and cook for three to four minutes until soft. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the mustard, garlic, and herbs (reserve some thyme leaves for garnish). Add a little stock and bring to the boil, then tip in the peas and remaining stock. Bring to the boil,

reduce to a simmer, and cook for 45 minutes, topping up with hot water as needed. • About 20 minutes before the end of the cooking time, bring a separate pan of water to the boil. Add the potatoes, bring back up to the boil, and then simmer for 12 to 15 minutes until soft. Drain and set aside. Remove the rosemary from the soup, then use a stick blender to gently purée the peas, or ladle them into a liquidizer and pulse a couple of times. Return them to the pan and stir in the potatoes. • Remove any fat from the ham, chop into bitesized pieces, and stir into the soup. Taste and season as needed. Garnish with the reserved thyme leaves and serve with wholemeal bread.

Braised oxtail with star anise

Serves 4-6

Rich and robust, oxtail makes a change from beef and braising it very slowly tenderizes it to the full. Prunes are always a tasty addition to a stew as their sweetness and texture complement the meat. Freeze up to 3 months In the slow cooker: Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 15 minutes precooking; auto/low eight hours Ingredients: • 2 oxtails, about 1.35kg (3lb) each, cut into bite-sized pieces • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 2tbsp olive oil • 2 red onions, sliced • 3 garlic clove, finely chopped • Pinch of dried chilli flakes • 350ml (12fl oz) red wine • 4 star anise • Handful of black peppercorns • 1 bay leaf • 8 soft prunes, stoned and chopped • 600ml (1 pint) hot beef stock for the slow cooker (900ml/1½ pints for the traditional method) • 4 clementines or 2 oranges, peeled and sliced into rings • Small bunch of curly parsley leaves, finely chopped

Method: • Preheat the slow cooker, if required. Season the oxtail with salt and pepper. Heat half the oil in a large flameproof casserole over a medium heat, then add the meat in batches, and fry for eight to 10 minutes until browned on all sides. Remove from the casserole and set aside. • Heat the remaining oil in the casserole over a medium heat, add the onions, and cook for three to four minutes to soften. Stir through

Traditional method

the garlic and chilli flakes, then pour in the wine and let it simmer before adding it to the slow cooker together with the meat, star anise, peppercorns, bay leaf, prunes, and stock. Cover with the lid and cook on auto/ low for eight hours. Add the clementines for the last 30 minutes of cooking. • Shred the meat from the bone into the slow cooker, and discard the bone, bay leaf, and star anise. Serve on a bed of pasta, sprinkled with the parsley.

Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 3¼ hours

• Preheat the oven to 150° c (300° F/gas 2). Season the oxtail with salt and pepper. Heat half the oil in a large flameproof casserole over a medium heat, then add the meat in batches, and fry for eight to 10 minutes until browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. • Heat the remaining oil in the casserole over a medium heat, add the onions, and cook for three to four minutes to soften. Stir through the garlic and chilli flakes, then pour in the wine and let it simmer for about five minutes until slightly reduced. Return the meat to the casserole and add the star anise, peppercorns, bay leaf, and prunes, and pour over just enough stock to cover

the meat. • Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer, add the remaining stock, cover, and put in the oven for about three hours. Check occasionally that it s not drying out, topping up with a little hot water if needed. Add the clementines or oranges for the last 30 minutes of cooking and leave the casserole uncovered to allow the liquid to thicken slightly. Stir it occasionally to keep the oxtail moist and coated with the gravy. When ready, the meat will fall away from the bone. Remove the bone and discard it together with the bay leaf and star anise. Serve on a bed of pasta, sprinkled with the parsley.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES

Recipes

Apple dumplings

Serves 4

You could change the cinnamon in these dumplings for grated nutmeg or mixed spice, and use orange zest instead of lemon for a slightly sweeter finish. In the slow cooker: Prep: 20 minutes Cook: High 3-4 hours Ingredients: • 225g (8oz) self-raising flour, sifted • 115g (4oz) vegetable suet • 1tsp ground cinnamon, plus extra to serve • Grated zest of 1 lemon • 4 cooking apples, peeled and cored • 1tbsp demerara sugar • 60g (2oz) golden sultanas • Icing sugar, to serve

Method: • Preheat the slow cooker, if required. To make the suet pastry, put the flour, suet, cinnamon, and lemon zest into a bowl. Then slowly trickle in about 100ml (3½ fl oz) of cold water and mix together until it forms a dough. • Roll out the pastry and cut out four circles, large enough for each apple. Sit an apple on each round, sprinkle the demerara sugar into the apple holes, and add the sultanas to each. Brush the edges of the pastry with water and bring them together at the top, pinching to secure.

• Turn the apples over so the sealed side is face down. If you have any pastry left over, you could fashion leaves and stalks for the dumplings. Loosely wrap foil around each and seal. Sit the dumplings in the slow cooker and add boiling water so it is about 2.5cm (1in) deep. Cover with the lid and cook on high for three to four hours. Lift the dumplings out of the slow cooker and remove the foil ‒ be careful as they will be very hot. Sprinkle the dumplings with icing sugar and ground cinnamon and serve with cream, custard, or ice cream.

Traditional method Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 30-40 minutes • Preheat the oven to 180° C (350° F/Gas 4) and lightly grease a baking sheet. To make the suet pastry, put the flour, suet, cinnamon, and lemon zest into a bowl. Then slowly trickle in about 100ml (3 fl oz) of cold water and mix together until it forms a dough. • Roll out the pastry and cut out four circles, large enough for each apple. Sit an apple on each round, sprinkle the demerara sugar into the apple holes, and add the sultanas to each. Brush the edges of the pastry with water and bring them together at the top, pinching to secure. • Turn the apples over so the sealed side is face down. If you have any pastry left over, you could fashion leaves and stalks for the dumplings. Sit them on the baking sheet. Cook in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes until golden. Sprinkle the dumplings with icing sugar and ground cinnamon and serve with cream, custard, or ice cream.

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

The Slow Cookbook by Heather Whinney is published by DK, £15.99, dk.com

Global foodie

Variety the spice of life in Indian cookery Monisha Bharadwaj takes us on a journey through India’s diverse food culture

ndia is home to many diverse cultures. Living in India is almost

the season has passed. Thirdly, Indian food almost always has a

world ingredients such as tomatoes, chillies and potatoes became everyday food in many

like living in many countries at the

religious history attached to it. Hindus all

parts of the country. English cookery

same time, so great is the variety of

over India do not eat beef, and Muslims

influenced areas such as Kolkata and Chennai,

food, language, dress and custom.

do not eat pork.

which were strongholds of the Raj. French

Then there are differences within the

Over most of India, Hindu and Sikh

cooking became a part of the daily diet in

same region. Each household will often

religious feasts are always vegetarian. The

Pondicherry, and Goan food showed

have a recipe for the same dish, one that

vegetarian cuisine of India, therefore, is

influences of the Portuguese style. The

has been passed down the generations in

highly developed.

Parsees, who came from Iran, brought their

that home. Over time, it will have been

People follow rules of diet and often

own unique food combinations and became

adapted and this is why hundreds of

fast on certain religious days such as

a part of the local population, as did the Jews.

recipes exist for the same dish.

birthdays of various saints or Gods. At

North Indian cookery was vastly influenced

weddings, great feasts are held and

by the Afghani rulers, who founded the

regional and seasonal foods are the stars

Mughal Empire. It is this ability to absorb all

This diversity can be better understood if

of the day. During Diwali, India’s most

influences, turn them around and take

we look at four aspects.

celebrated Festival of Light, many Hindus

ownership of the new styles that makes

cook a spread of vegetarian dishes to

Indian cookery so fascinating and vibrant.

A diversified nation Firstly, think of the climate. The south, being closer to the Equator, is hotter than

include breads, lentils, curries and salads.

the north. People here eat lots of cooling

The main feature of a Diwali meal is the

Spice sensation

rice, coconut and yoghurt. Amongst

succession of sweets, made of a variety of

Spices are found in abundance in India and

spices, chillies are considered to have a

flours, milk, coconut, nuts and spices such

form the key that binds all the various Indian

cooling effect and therefore south Indian

as cardamom and saffron.

cuisines together.

food can be fiery hot. Chillies contain a

Lastly, over the centuries, several

Most have been studied not just for their

compound called capsaicin which, when

dynasties came to India and built new

culinary uses but also for their healing

eaten, dilates the blood vessels and makes

empires here. Along with these foreign

powers. Turmeric, for example, is revered as

you perspire and then cools you down.

powers came an amazing variety of

an antiseptic, asafoetida to fight flatulence,

Northern India has cold winters and

cooking styles and ingredients. New

carom to counter nausea, and ginger as an

foods need to be warming. Here, a spice

aphrodisiac. Contrary to popular belief, all

blend called garam masala (translates as

Indian food is not spicy. In fact, most home

‘hot spice’) is popular. This a blend of

cooking is spiced judiciously as it is to be

warming spices such as pepper,

eaten by the whole family, including

cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves along

young children.

with up to 15 other spices. Secondly, consider geography. India has over 4,000 miles of coastline so

The word curry comes from the Tamil word ‘kari’ which means sauce or vegetable dish. Many things are important when creating

seafood is an important part of the diet

a curry. Firstly, it has to have the consistency

here. People also eat coconut, tamarind

because a good curry should be fairly thick.

and rice, all of which grow locally. Local

A thin curry will not support an even blend

and seasonal foods have always been the

of spices.

hallmark of India’s cuisine. Mangoes,

Secondly, think of colour. Turmeric, dried

which are the national fruit of India, still

red chillies, tamarind and fresh coriander

only grow in the hot Indian summer

can add colour to a curry. Generally curries

between April and August and cannot be

can be white (as in a Kashmiri yoghurt-based

bought for any amount of money after

yakhni), red (as in a makhani), yellow (as in

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

many kormas) and green (as in a south Indian nilgiri). The oil used also varies from region to

is a wonderful blend of many cultures. Rich onion- and tomato-flavoured curries or the delicious tandoori foods

The south A meal here is mainly made up of rice served in three different courses.

region, giving each curry a unique

that are cooked slowly in a clay oven

fragrance. Many parts of the south use

called the tandoor, even the naans and

lentil dish that is flavoured with fresh

peanut oil or coconut oil. In Bengal, it is

parathas, all originate in Punjab.

vegetables. Then it is eaten with rasam, a

mustard oil. In days gone by, food was

The cuisine of Kashmir is a mix of

It is eaten first with sambhar, a thick

thinner version of the sambhar and finally

cooked in ghee but more and more

Indian, Persian and Afghan styles and

people are now choosing healthier

makes the most of the local produce such

options, such as sunflower oil.

as walnuts, dried apricots and pistachios.

influences that have been a part of the

All good curries begin with patience. In

with yoghurt to cool the palate. Goan food is a blend of the various

Spices such as dried ginger powder,

region’s history. The main communities

the north, a basic curry would start with

fennel powder and saffron, which grow in

that live here are the Christians and the

the heating of the oil. Then the seed

Kashmir, are used.

Hindus. Goa was a Portuguese colony for

spices are added to release their aromatic

many years and the food of that land has

oils. The onions, ginger, garlic and

The west

tomatoes go in next to add moisture. The

This region is famous for its delicate,

Goa. Goan Christians eat much more meat

pan is now ready to receive the

vegetarian cuisine and most especially for

than the Hindus and their specialities

powdered spices. The main ingredient,

the thali, a metal plate with several small

include vindaloos, xacuttis and sorpotels.

which may be meat, fish or vegetables,

bowls filled with an array of tempting

follow along with salt. A little water is

dishes. The thali has rice, breads, fried

The east

added to get the right consistency.

accompaniments called farsans,

The use of spices here is unique and a

vegetables, lentils and sweets all served at

special blend called ‘panch phoron’ or

once.

five spice mixture is used extensively.

Thus, curries are made in steps, almost like building blocks. The blocks can be moved around and re-arranged in

Mumbai is dotted with innumerable

mainly influenced the Christian food of

This is a mixture of cumin, fennel, fenugreek, kalonji (onion seeds) and black mustard.

countless ways to give never-ending

restaurants serving up every type of

recipes that tease the taste buds and

regional cuisine. The Parsees, who

create a burst of complementary flavours.

came from Persia, brought dhansak, the

cooking is the repertoire of sweets. A

Sindhis, who came from Pakistan,

mishit, or sweet shop, is seen at every

introduced a variety of poppadums and

street corner in Kolkata and even in other

This area of India has seen the most

the various communities who came here

cities of India. Syrupy rasmalai, milky

turbulent phases of history and the most

to work created a vibrant street food

sandesh and a sweet yoghurt called

number of invasions, therefore the cuisine

culture.

mishti dhoi all come from here. FF

The north

But the most unique feature of Bengali

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES

Global foodie

Recipes Panch Phodoner Kaddu (Bengali pumpkin with five spices) Serves 4 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Ingredients: • 2tbsp sunflower oil • ½tsp cumin seeds • ½tsp fennel seeds • ½tsp fenugreek seeds • ½tsp black mustard seeds • ½tsp black onion seeds • 600g (1¼lb) red pumpkin, cubed with the skin • Salt • 1tsp sugar

Rishta (Kashmiri meatballs with fennel) Serves 4 pumpkin, salt and sugar. Stir in a few

Method:

tablespoons of water and cook on

• Heat the oil until warm and add all the

high heat until pumpkin begins to

spice seeds.

soften. Reduce heat and cook covered

• As the seeds pop and darken, add the

until the pumpkin is done.

Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Ingredients: • 500g (1lb) lean lamb mince • ½tsp dried ginger powder • 1tsp fennel powder • Salt to taste • 1tbsp turmeric powder • 1tsp garam masala powder • 1tsp chilli powder

garam masala and

Method:

water as necessary.

• Mix the lamb mince,

Baste them from time

ginger powder, half

to time for flavour.

the fennel powder

The meatballs should

and salt. Form this

be coated with the

into lime-sized balls

sauce, and not

and reserve.

floating in a gravy.

• Mix the turmeric,

• Serve hot with rice.

chilli powders and the remaining fennel powder in 300ml (or 10 fl oz) of water and bring to the boil. Season with salt. • Gently place the meatballs in the gravy and cook until they are browned and cooked, adding more

Monisha Bharadwaj is a popular food writer, who runs Cooking with Monisha, the UK’s hottest Indian cookery school (www.cookingwithmonisha.com). She was awarded Cookery Book of the Year by The Guild of Food Writers for Stylish Indian in Minutes and won the Silver Medal, Akademie Gastronomische. Her latest book, Indian in 6, is out now. To be in with a chance of winning one copy, turn to page 4 for details.

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

November/Dece

Issue.6 Vol. 1 January/Fe bruary 201 2

Passion ate abo ut good d f o ood fo g t food u o b a te a n io s Pas Pick up p Pick furee yourod i fo e ine magaz

your free foodie magazine

INTERVIEW

The

Italian way

PluSTs:ERCHEF MASTERCLASS Nov/Dec 2011

] MA SS SPAIN ] JOURNEY ACRO ] BAKING TIPS

Gregg’s the word

THE MASTER HIS MISSION CHEF STAR ON NATION TO TO SWITCH THE RAPESEED O IL

Pu lurs: Plan yo ] INDIAN FO cRMt ING WODINCTEULTURE WA per]]fe R REC ChristmMICaHsELIN STARS EXPLAIPINESED MIXING THE BEST TRADITIONS WITH A MODERN TWIST COVER.indd

January/Feb ruary 2012

CIO ANTONIO CARLUC IN S ITA BR NG VI VI RE ON G LOVE OF COOKIN

INTERVIEW

Sustainable catch HOW TO

FISH ETHICA SOURCE LLY AN SUSTAINABLD Y

2 20/10/11 17:27:1

For exclusive offers, lively discussions and all the latest news, follow @FineFoodies on Twitter and find ‘Fine Foodies’ on Facebook.

W W W . F I N E F O O D I E S M A G . CO M

Feature

In the stars

Following a visit to the Michelin-starred Pied à Terre, Sarah Willingham reflects on the impact of these stars on food culture.

nterviewing Raymond Blanc for this magazine a few months ago made me realise something; you can spend hours and hours in people’s company, class them as

great friends and yet, annoyingly, you rarely have the time for a completely oneway conversation, where you probe and probe to get to the roots of a person. David Moore is one of those people. David is a big name in the world of food. He owns two very successful Michelinstarred restaurants in London – Pied à Terre, proudly occupying second place in the Zagat’s Guide (sorry Raymond!) and L’Autre Pied. I filmed two series of BBC’s

The Restaurant with him and he is now my business partner in The London Cocktail Club, a wonderful bar concept in central London where we are about to open our second venue. But above all, David Moore is a great friend, someone I call and chat to about kids, business and admittedly, mostly food, someone whose opinion I trust and someone with the most amazing knowledge of the world in which he operates. Until this interview I hadn’t appreciated how much food runs through his veins, why he is so passionate about food and service and what makes him succeed where so many others fail.

The issue of stars I’m early. In the history of our relationship I have never been early. Pied à Terre is expecting me and even in David’s absence I am welcomed like a friend. Leonora, David’s long-standing, fiercely loyal Director and General Manager, meets me at the door with a hug, instantly wants to know how the baby weight has ‘fallen’ off, ushers me to our table and coaxes a glass of champagne into my hand. David will be over in 15

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

minutes so I get chance to have a good gossip with Leo; she’s strong, loyal, open and honest but with a warmness and twinkle that makes you feel instantly at ease and an attention to detail that makes her quite scary. For anyone who saw The

Restaurant, if I told you that Leo makes David look laid back then you’d get my drift. So, a bit of background; David’s chef and business partner, Shane Osborn, recently left Pied à Terre to travel around the world with his family. They had been an inseparable team for 13 years (12 of which Leonora has been with them). Marcus, Shane’s old Sous Chef and Head Chef at L’autre Pied (one star) has now moved over to Pied à Terre (two star) to fill his big shoes. This all happened over the summer this year and then two weeks ago I heard the news that Pied à Terre had lost one of its stars, without even a visit from the Michelin team. Suddenly realising how little I know about the politics of the world of Michelin-starred restaurants, I decide to find out more. The stars follow the chefs, never the restaurant, and Marcus’ food was

outstanding at L’Autre Pied. Having eaten

his ‘staff’, making sure the job was done

Shane’s amazing food many times over

properly, handing over the cash and

the last five years I wanted to come and

walking away with money in his pocket

taste for myself Pied à Terre with Marcus

without getting his hands dirty. It sounds

in the kitchen.

to me like business and management

In 20 years of operation David has had

were clearly his true calling in life, not the

his fair share of challenges and changes

kitchen.

from chefs with egos the size of a planet,

The troubles came in Northern Ireland

to fires destroying his entire business. He

and his parents made the decision to

has been the one constant presence

dad was a serial entrepreneur of the real

move away. In 1977, they headed to

throughout. So how has he managed to

kind and drilled into David from a very

Blackpool and bought another guest-

keep Pied à Terre up there in the best

early age that if you can work for yourself

house. Working his way around the

restaurants of the world, growing year on

it’s the only way. You should live or die by

different functions, he had his heart set on

year?

your own decisions, not somebody else’s.

the kitchen as his vocation. He trained to

So David was never going to end up with

be a chef at college and took a work

anything other than his own business

placement in a large hotel in Blackpool.

with parents like this.

After three weeks he was on the phone to

An early passion David grew up wanting to be a chef. He

At the age of five his mum paid him to

the college enrolling on a hotel catering

and when he was a little boy his mum

work on a Saturday morning, clearing up

and management course… that sounds

started a guest-house in her spare room.

the old bottles and rubbish for two pence

more like the little boy sat on the wall!

Over the years she grew it to two

per skip filled. He reminds me that in 1969

businesses, 26 bedrooms, three bars, a

two pence was a lot of money. Showing

star Michelin restaurant in Ilkley and it was

restaurant and a ballroom. David grew up

his entrepreneurial streak from a young

there that he found true inspiration. He

inspired by this incredible, strong, self-

age, he got two of his mates to do the job

knew he was where he wanted to be –

sufficient woman who insisted that her

for one pence per skip. He sat on the wall

front of house, with the customers. He

son always gave everything his best. His

at the back of the guest house ‘directing’

was first in every day and the last to leave,

lived in a border town in Northern Ireland

He went to work at The Boxtree, a two

his presentation was immaculate, shoes polished like a mirror and eager to learn. He decided that now he needed to learn from the absolute best. So, at the age of 22 enter Raymond Blanc and Le Manoir.

Finding his own direction One of my favourite quotes of all time and one that has followed me throughout my life is Mark Twain saying ‘whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect’. To me this means there are many ways to get the result you need, so why take the path that everyone else is on – there’s always a better option. David’s approach to getting one of the most highly sought-after jobs in the industry was just that. He had an interview with Alain Desonclos, the Restaurant Director for the job of Assistant Head Waiter at 3pm. He turned up two hours early having booked a table for one for lunch under a different name. At five to three he called the waiter over and told him that M. Desonclos’ 3pm appointment was ready. Alain told me this story when he retired as restaurant manager last year,

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 FINE FOODIES

Feature 25 years later. He had never interviewed anyone quite like David. To come in as a customer first and call the Restaurant Director over to a table for a passionate review of the experience was ballsy to say the least. David spent six years at Le Manoir, starting as a waiter and ending up as

David Moore

Assistant Restaurant Manager – no mean feat when you’re in your 20s and don’t speak a word of French! It was working as Assistant Restaurant Manager that he started to hatch a plan.

rather have then, one star or two star? “There’s a real pride in a two star, he says, a real sense of achievement for all.” I can’t help being a little sceptical... a

run Pied once it was rebuilt and working again. In 2007, he opened L’autre Pied on Blandford Street with Marcus Eaves, Shane’s Sous Chef. Marcus got his first star

He knew Alain was not likely to leave and

chef leaves and they take a star away

in 2009, Best New Restaurant in Time Out

his Dad’s words were ringing in his ear. He

without even trying out the restaurant?

and Best Newcomer in Square Meal.

had come to know the customers at Le

How can that be right?

Manoir very well over the years and found

I understand that a star follows a chef

But today David is more hands-on in the business than I’ve ever seen. Shane leaving

that many of them were coming out from

and if that’s the rule then show

has meant a big restructure; Andy is now at

London. He decided that he should open

consistency. It all sounds a little too

Blandford Street, maintaining the one star

a Michelin-starred, fine dining restaurant

subjective. He loses a chef but retains

status and Marcus, full of energy and drive,

in the centre of the city. But with no chef

both stars then he loses a chef and loses a

is producing food that’s definitely worthy

and no money this was going to be a

star, he wins back the star then loses a

of retaining that second star. The food was

challenge.

chef and loses the star again.

as inspiring as it’s always been.

Enter Richard Neat, Chef de Partie at Le

There are times when I visit a restaurant

Manoir, who was leaving to go to work for

and it doesn’t live up to its two-star status,

and losing a Michelin star to be huge for a

Robouchon in Paris. David said he’d sort

but we all have off days and that’s why

business like this but when you look at

the money as long as Richard made sure

Michelin visit these restaurants time after

the history it’s no wonder David looks as

the food was exceptional. He very cleverly

time to give their rating. That’s great – but

calm and in control as he always has. This

found 45 investors from the clientele at Le

why does it not apply when a chef leaves?

is what he does. Yes, it’s a challenge when

Manoir who were keen to back this dream

David says I’m wrong, that Michelin is

You’d expect your head chef leaving

a chef and a great friend leaves but for

team. David declared his plans to

the bible of restaurants, the one guide

David it’s an opportunity to inject more

Raymond, who supported him all the way,

that he uses whenever he visits anywhere

drive and passion back into the business.

finding him further finance and even

and the one guide that consistently gets

He knows his business, he knows his

investing himself.

it right.

customers and he knows his product.

He believes that it’s a lot about timing.

As a customer I wouldn’t notice the

Going it alone

Shane left in May and the guide was

change and that consistency is what

In December 1991, David and Richard

published in October. Had it have been

makes David so good at what he does.

opened Pied à Terre on Charlotte Street in

published at the start of 2012 David thinks

The success of his business over the years

central London. During his time at Pied à

that Marcus would have had a chance to

has been down to his ability to

Terre Richard was granted two Michelin

prove his two-star capability. There needs

understand what his customers expect

stars. After a few years he left and was

to be enough time for Michelin to have

and wherever possible he exceeds these

replaced by his Sous Chef, Tom Aitkens.

made a number of visits. But aren’t they

expectations, whether he’s got no stars,

Tom managed to keep the two stars for a

unnecessarily damaging your business?

one star or two stars. It sounds easy but it’s

couple of years. Shane Osborn joined as

No, he says, Pied à Terre is an institution

the hardest thing to get right in any

Tom’s Sous Chef and replaced Tom when

now. Whilst having the second star is

consumer facing business.

he left in 1999. On Tom’s departure they

important he is fortunately in a position

Restaurants are tough and at this end

lost a star and went down to a one star

where customers know that the loss of a

of the market they are just about as tough

rating. They regained the second star

star does not reflect quality, merely a

as it gets. No wonder so many people

three years later.

change of chef.

dream of having a restaurant when

But how does the change from one to

Back to David’s story. In 2004, there was

two stars affect business? Very little, David

the big fire and a time for David to sit back

tells me, but it can really affect the chef.

and work out what he wanted from his

it’s not just politics and I’ve just

Often it gives them something to attain

business. He decided to take a step back

downloaded the Michelin app for my trip

and therefore the food punches well

and to open another restaurant, hiring a

to New York later this month. Food food,

above its one star rating. Which would he

restaurant manager/general manager to

food! FF

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

people like David make it look so easy. With all this in mind, I’m convinced that

Drinks update

Drink up ApRicot AdditioN

New to the line-up at juice maker Organic Village is an apricot variety. Thought to be the only organic apricot juice in the UK, the fruit is sourced from the beautiful organic orchards of Anatolia, Turkey, free from chemical pesticides and sprays. The range is certified organic by the Soil Association. This juice is first-pressed, which means it contains very little of the tasteless pulp that some other brands use to bulk up their product.

World first... paper wine bottle As a nation, we are becoming increasingly eco conscious but even Fine Foodies was surprised to see the news of the world’s first paper wine bottle! British company GreenBottle began its inventions with the first paper milk bottle, and has now sold its 100,000th. And now they have expanded into the wine arena. GreenBottle has developed a prototype paper bottle for wine and is currently in talks with wine producers to make it available to the British public as early as next year. The revolutionary packaging is made of paper with a thin plastic lining and was the brainchild of Suffolk inventor Martin Myerscough following a chance conversation with a waste tip supervisor who was worried about the growing and seemingly insoluble problem of plastic bottle waste. The paper bottle itself is compostable, can be recycled several times and decomposes in a matter of weeks, Martin said: “We’re hopeful that the success we’ve had with GreenBottle in milk can be repeated with wine. It would mean an end to those morning-after trips to the bottle bank. All you would need to do is rip out the plastic lining and put the paper outer-casing in the bin or on the compost heap.”

pAckiNg A pUNch

Norfolk Punch is the original herbal drink made to an authentic medieval recipe of 30 herbs and spices, all-natural and alcohol-free, with a unique sour tang. The recipe was discovered at Welle Manor, near Upwell in Western Norfolk, in 1980 by Eric St John-Foti who first discovered the secret recipe. It is Eric’s son, Blair Montague Drake, who continues to make Norfolk Punch in Australia today, to the same original recipe, a tightly-guarded secret known to only a few. Local production ceased around five years ago, but is now back on UK shelves. At the moment, Norfolk Punch is made only in Australia, where current stock for the UK is imported from. However, it’s hoped that local production can be reestablished in Norfolk as soon as possible, and Norfolk Punch is working with Tastes of Anglia, the regional food and drink industry group, to achieve that.

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

FEElINg thE lOvE As Valentine’s Day approaches, the creative souls at The Bitter Truth Cocktail Bitters are getting in the mood for romance. The company has created the ideal gift, a versatile Traveller’s Set containing five best-selling wild flavours to choose from in convenient 20ml sizes, including Orange, Aromatic, Creole and Celery Bitters. It also includes multiaward winning exotically spiced Jerry Thomas bitters. Simply marry the bitters of your choice with a sugar cube, add a dash of bubbly and you have a disarmingly charming drink. Watch as the bitter and sugar dissolve into the champagne adding extra fizz, and set off a taste sensation guaranteed to tickle your tastebuds. You could give the Champagne Cocktail a try. • Add a couple of dashes of any of the Bitter Truth Bitters to a white sugar cube. • Add to a champagne flute and top with champagne.

a flavour of brazil

Hold the sugar, add the spice We all know that sickly sweet cocktails can be pretty laden with sugar, but it needn’t be that way. Simply Nectar has teamed up with organic wine specialists Vintage Roots to create a series of delectable new cocktails that do not leave a sugary aftertaste for the rest of the evening, using its sugar free fruit juices and nectars. You could try:

Winter sunrise ingredients:

• 100ml Cava Petit Albet • 30ml Orange Simply Nectar • Either a handful of What On Earth Organic Raspberries, blended or 20ml Raspberry Simply Nectar Fill chilled flute with blended raspberries or Raspberry Simply Nectar and add Orange Simply Nectar. Stir gently and top with Cava.

What a lovely pear ingredients:

• 100ml Cava Petit Albet • 50ml Pear Simply Nectar • 1 lime cut into wedges Fill a chilled flute with Pear Simply Nectar and top with Champagne. Squeeze and drop in one wedge of lime.

With a cult following amongst London’s top bartenders, Abelha Cachaça is proving a popular drink of choice. Pronounced Ah-bel-ya, which means bee in Portuguese, this cachaça is created using the most traditional artisan method, made in small batches using the same type of copper pot brought to Brazil in 1530. Cachaça is the crucial ingredient in the national drink of Brazil, the Caipirinha, and natives have been drinking this for hundreds of years, now consuming around a billion litres of cachaça a year. Simply take a whole lime and cut into eights, add them to a sturdy rocks glass and muddle with two barspoons/teaspoons caster sugar. Add some cracked ice and a 50ml measure of Abelha Silver Cachaça and stir. Serve with a straw.

CoCktail with a ConsCienCe

Add a natural and organic energy boost to your cocktail with the help of Sheckter’s. The 100 per cent organic and Fairtrade drink was created by Toby Scheckter, the son of former Formula One champion Jody Scheckter who also runs organic farm Laverstoke. The team has come up with a series of cocktail recipes using Scheckter’s, which contains no toxic chemicals, synthethic caffeine, artificial flavours or preservatives. Why not give the Scheckter’s Raspberry and Almond Collins a go? Simply take some fresh raspberries and almonds and mix with syrup, orange juice and lemon juice, and top up with Scheckter’s Organic Energy.

tips from the top

A new book opens up the fascinating world of Champagne. Steve Charters, Professor at Reims Management School and Chair of Champagne Management, has edited The Business of Champagne, a delicate balance, which explores the champagne industry, looking at the issues surrounding it. The introductory chapters cover the history, the geography, the structure of the industry of champagne and the way champagne is made.

january/february 2012 FINE FOODIES

Fine Foodie hero

eing located on

eventually received finance

the Isle of Mull

from an ethical bank, initially

isn’t like running

Joe sought backing in an

a business in a

unlikely place.

typical town. For

“We actually went on Dragon’s Den for a bit of fun and to get the biscuits out to a wider audience on TV,” Joe said. However, confusion over a simple measurement meant the meeting went down the wrong road. “Duncan Bannatyne was converting square metres into square feet, and decided our new factory was expanding to 60,000 sq ft from what we have now – they felt that was too great an expansion in one go, and I didn’t notice that they had got it wrong – it’s actually 6,000 sq ft!” he recalled. “But the most important thing was they liked the biscuits.” With the new building, to be opened in the spring, the building is to be carbon neutral, with sources of both electricity and heat being generated from the island. For Joe, the success of the business is simple. “I don’t think it matters what you do, as long as you are doing it the right way. The most important thing for us is that the taste of the product is amazing. You can talk all about being carbon neutral and organics but it means nothing if you don’t have great tasting products,” he said. “We are always going to be a small business so we have to make the most of what we do well which is handmade products, biscuits you could almost make at home.” FF

a start, its population is pretty small, and it is very reliant on tourists during the summer months. Which can make life difficult for shops; that is unless you come up with a delectable range of products that have spread in popularity across the UK and further afield, including the USA. This is what Joe and Dawn Reade did when they created Island Bakery Organics, making a range of delicious handmade biscuits. The couple left university in 1994 and returned to Joe’s

Joe Reade

Fine Foodies celebrates those making great food. Here, we talk to Joe Reade of Island Bakery.

native Isle of Mull with ideas to

three or four months of the

to keep up with demand.

start their own business. And

tourist season in the summer

And so construction has

so they became bakers. They

months and the rest of the

begun on a brand new 600

supplied bread to the island,

year you scrape by. So it can be

square foot manufacturing

making it in an empty garage

difficult to earn a living,” Joe

facility.

in Joe’s brother’s garden.

explained. “But through the

“We dipped our toe in the

experience of running our own

water and it was very

farmers and they would deliver

bakery we started to think

successful, and so we have had

milk, so we tagged onto that

about other items, and

to find more space to make

and delivered bread to the

decided to go into making

them,” Joe explained, adding

island,” Joe explained. “We had

biscuits.”

that to ensure they could

“My family were dairy

Launched in 2001, starting

no previous experience but I

concentrate on the biscuits

thought it would be an

with a range of four products,

side of the business they sold

interesting thing to do –

all of which are certified

the bakery shop, which is still

although it is very difficult,

organic, the biscuits were a

going strong under its new

because you are baking at

roaring success and Island

owners.

night and delivering bread

Bakery has been struggling

Although Joe and Dawn

early.” As time went on, Joe and Dawn opened their own bakery and delicatessen in the town of Tobermory – where they filmed Balamory. And it was this that set the wheels in motion for starting the biscuit business. “We were a bakery in a very small town that was very seasonal – we had around

“I don’t think it matters what you do, as long as you are doing it the right way. The most important thing for us is that the taste of the product is amazing. You can talk all about being carbon neutral and organics but it means nothing if you don’t have great tasting products.”

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012