Fine Foodies Spring 2012

Fine Foodies Spring 2012

Passionate about good food Picrkfurp ee you ie fooadzine mag

INTERVIEW

The Roux legacy MICHEL ROUX JR ON LIFE IN THE FAMOUS CULINARY DYNASTY

Plus:

SPRING 2012

] DELI DELIGHTS ] SEASONS IN GREECE ] MARY BERRY S TOP RECIPES

Gordon Ramsay’s Indian adventure

BE INSPIRED BY THE TV CHEF S INDIAN ADVENTURE

Welcome

Fine Foodies Passionate about good food

Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Essex CM22 6HJ Telephone: 01279 816300 www.finefoodiesmag.com Editor: Rachel Symonds e: editor@finefoodiesmag.com t: 01279 810088 Contributors: Jennifer Britt, Jane Baxter, Aglaia Kremezi Sub Editor: Jeff Munn-Giddings Group Commercial Manager: Ruth Gilmour e: ruth.gilmour@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810084 Sales Executives: Ben Brooks e: ben.brooks@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810068 Production Daniella Randazzo e: daniella.randazzo@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810097 Design Clare Holland e: clare.holland@targetpublishing.com Administration/Distribution Julie Torkington e: julie.torkington@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810072 Accounts Lorraine Evans e: lorraine.evans@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 816300 Managing Director David Cann e: info@targetpublishing.com ISSN 2046-438X

Published by Target Publishing Limited. Printed in

the UK by The Magazine Printing Company plc www.magprint.co.uk ©2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material in accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004.

T

his issue I had the pleasure of interviewing the popular chef and, increasingly, TV personality, Michel Roux Jr. Michel Jr is one of a number of top chefs who make up the Roux culinary dynasty and to say this family is talented when it comes to food is something of an understatement.

Michel Jr talked to me about his early food memories and the things that influenced him in the kitchen, and this got me thinking about the rest of us. Clearly, we don’t all come from such a famed food family and with a father such as Albert Roux as a mentor, but what’s true for all of us is that our early memories shape how we view things in later life, and this includes our attitude to food.

If, for instance, you have grown up with fast food being the norm, where everything comes from the freezer and nothing is cooked from scratch, it’s quite likely this will carry through into our adult lives. Equally, if we have never been shown the basic skills of cooking, we don’t understand how different ingredients work together and simply don’t realise how cost effective home cooking is then why would we be a keen cook?

One of the aims of Fine Foodies is to show readers that cooking from scratch, using wholesome, fresh ingredients is easy to do and can be far more economical than living off convenience foods. This is especially the case when we choose foods that are in season in the UK, which haven’t had to be flown halfway across the world. This issue is the turn of the leek, a very versatile vegetable that can be included in plenty of dishes. Turn to page 22 for advice from the Riverford Kitchen about how you can cook up some simple dishes.

Also in this issue, Mary Berry offers us some sumptuous, yet pretty simple recipes, developed over a career spanning some deacdes, or if you fancy something a little spicier, turn to page 26 where Gordon Ramsay whets the appetite following his journey through India.

I hope this has given you some food for thought and gets you inspired to get into the kitchen. It’s always great to hear what our readers think of Fine Foodies. Whether it’s a cooking tip for your fellow readers, to reporting a recipe that turned out really well (or not!) or simply to shout about how great your local store is, I’d love to hear from you. Why not drop me an email at editor@finefoodiesmag.com or log onto our Twitter page @finefoodies – you never know, your thoughts may be next issue’s star letter and you could bag a prize as a reward.

Rachel

RACHEL SyMONDS

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES

Fine Foodies

Contents Passionate about good food

12

26

COvEr StOry

a sumptuous selection of foods from the deli counter

12

Michel Roux Jr The celebrated chef on his early food memories, learning his trade away from the family, and his remaining ambitions

FEaturES

18

Food focus From the deli – Jennifer Britt explores

26 30

Recipe After decades in the business, Mary Berry selects some of her favourite dishes

34

Global foodie Aglaia Kremezi on Greece’s finest food

6 8 30 10

Letters What you’re talking about this issue Foodie bites What’s going on in the world of fine food

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

18 34

Recipe Indian-inspired recipes from Gordon Ramsay’s latest book

rEgularS

SPRING 2012

Shelf life Explore the latest products in store

16

UK fare Fine Foodies takes a closer look at the culinary landscape of the Isle of Wight

22

In season What’s ideal for eating and cooking with at this time of year? Riverford Organic tells all

40

Drink up From wines and cocktail ideas to the newest hot drinks

42

Fine Foodie hero Gabriel David

Product news

Letters

Your foodies SLOW THANKS

Sta Letterr

Recipes

I just wanted to thank you for the Jan/Feb edition of Fine Foodies. Who thought to put the slow cooker recipes in, because whoever did thank you, what a great idea. I have a slow cooker and use it all the time ‒ I wouldn t be without it but have never seen any slow cooker recipes in any magazines.

It was wonderful to find not one but three delicious recipes. I can t wait to cook them for my family, and they can t wait for me to cook them for them! Thank you.

Winterwarmers The cold weather is upon us, so dust off the slow cooker and get creative with some sumptuous recipe ideas from The Slow Cookbook.

warmers

Pea, ham and potato soup Serves: 4-6

Braised ox tail

A firm favourite with everyone, this soup tastes even better served the next day. Go easy on the salt when adding seasoning as the ham may be salty enough for most people s taste.

Prep: 15 minutes Freeze up to three months In the slow cooker: Cook auto/low for eight hours or high four hours, then auto/low eight hours or high four hours Ingredients: • 1.1kg (21⁄2lb) unsmoked ham • 1 bay leaf • 1tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 1tbsp Dijon mustard • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2 sprigs of rosemary • Handful of thyme, leaves only • 900ml (1½ pints) hot beef stock for the slow cooker (1.2 litres/2 pints for the traditional method) • 450g (1lb) frozen peas • 3 potatoes, peeled and chopped into bitesized pieces Method: • Preheat the slow cooker, if required. Sit the ham and bay leaf in the slow cooker and cover with 900ml (1½ pints) of water. Cover and cook on auto/low for eight hours or on high for four hours, then remove the ham and set aside. Discard the stock, or strain and reserve a little to add to the soup.

• Heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan over

28

with star anise

Rich and robust, oxtail makes a stew as their change from sweetness beef and textur Serves 4-6 e complemen and braising it very slowly tende t the meat.

Freeze up rizes it to to 3 month the full. s Prunes are In the slow always a cooker: Prep: tasty additi Cook: 15 20 minut Method: on to a minutes es precooking eight hours • Preheat ; auto/low the slow cooker, if the oxtail the garlic required. with salt and chilli Season and Ingredients: flakes, then peppe oil in a large wine and r. Heat half pour in the flameproof let it simme the • 2 oxtails medium casserole r before addin slow cooke , about 1.35kg heat, then over a r together g it to the add (3lb) bite-sized and fry for the meat with the each, cut anise, peppe pieces meat, star in batches, eight to 10 into rcorns, bay • Salt and minutes on all sides. stock. Cover leaf, prune until brown freshly groun Remo s, and with ve ed d black peppe the lid and from the • 2tbsp olive set aside. low for eight casserole cook on oil r and hours. Add auto/ • 2 red onion • Heat the the last 30 the cleme s, sliced remaining ntines for minutes oil in the • 3 garlic of cookin a medium • Shred the clove, finely casserole g. heat, add meat from over chopped the onion • Pinch of three to the bone cooker, and s, and cook dried chilli four minut into the slow discard the flakes for es to soften • 350ml (12fl bone, bay star anise. . Stir throug oz) red wine leaf, and Serve on h • 4 star anise a bed of with the pasta, sprink parsley. led • Handful of black peppe • 1 bay leaf rcorns • Preheat the oven Prep: 20 to 150° • 8 soft prune minutes the oxtail c (300° Cook: 3¼ F/gas 2). with salt s, stoned Season hours and peppe and chopp • 600ml (1 a large flamep r. Heat half the meat. ed pint) hot roof cassero the oil in beef stock then add le over a cooker (900m • Bring to the meat for the slow medium the boil, in batche l/1½ pints heat, 10 minute then reduce s, and fry method) for the traditi the remain s until brown for eight to a simme ing stock, onal to ed on all with a slotted r, add cover, and for about sides. Remov • 4 cleme spoon and put in three hours. ntines or e • Heat the set aside.

2 oranges, Check occasio the oven not drying remaining sliced into peeled out, nally that oil in the medium topping rings and casserole it s if needed up with a heat, add over a • Small bunch . Add the little hot the onions to four minute clementines water , and cook last 30 minute of curly parsle s to soften. or orange for three chopped s of cookin and chilli y leaves, Stir throug s for the uncove flakes, g and finely

Traditional method

a medium heat, add the onion, and cook for three to four minutes until soft. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the mustard, garlic, and herbs (reserve some thyme leaves for garnish). Add a little stock and bring to the boil, then tip in the peas (if you prefer them puréed, pulse them gently in a liquidiser or use a stick blender).

Traditional method

• Transfer to the slow cooker, add the remaining stock and the potatoes, cover, and cook on auto/low for eight hours or on high for four hours. Remove any fat from the ham, chop into bite-sized pieces, and stir into the soup. Taste and season as needed. Garnish with the reserved thyme leaves and serve with wholemeal bread.

h the garlic then pour simmer for in the wine about five and let it minutes reduced. until slightly Return the meat to the add the star casserole anise, peppe and prunes, and rcorns, bay pour over leaf, and just enoug h stock to cover

leave the red to allow casserole the liquid Stir it occasio to thicken nally to keep slightly. coated with the oxtail the gravy. moist and When ready, fall away from the the meat bone. Remov will discard it e the bone together with the and anise. Serve bay leaf and on a bed star of pasta, parsley. sprinkled with the

reduce to a simmer, and cook for 45 minutes, topping up with hot water as needed.

• About 20 minutes before the end of the cooking time, bring a separate pan of water to the boil.

Add the potatoes, bring back up to the boil, and then simmer for 12 to 15 minutes until soft. Drain and set aside. Remove the rosemary from the soup, then use a stick blender to gently purée the peas, or ladle them into a liquidizer and pulse a couple of times. Return them to the pan and stir in the potatoes.

• Remove any fat from the ham, chop into bitesized pieces, and stir into the soup. Taste and season as needed. Garnish with the reserved thyme leaves and serve with wholemeal bread.

FINE FOODIES JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

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recipes.indd

29 JANUARY/FEBRU ARY 2012

FINE FOODI ES

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16/12/11

15:28:07

Star letter – could it be you?

Picked up a copy of Fine Foodies in our local Italian deli, Buongiono Italia ‒ what a great magazine, beautifully printed. I have known Buongiorno Italia, in St Albans, for over 17 years and in that time it has always been (almost) a hidden secret.

Now that it has expanded to a deli and cafe it still makes a visit a real Italian experience.

BRIAN DAVIES, REDBOURN, HERTFORDSHIRE

We asked our followers the simple question, what s for dinner?

Prep: 15 minutes Cook: 2 hours

• Add the ham and bay leaf to a large pan, cover with 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water and bring to the boil. Partially cover, reduce to a simmer, and cook for about one hour or until the ham is cooked.

• Skim away any scum that comes to the surface of the pan as you go. Discard the stock, or strain and reserve a little to add to the soup. Set the ham aside until cool enough to handle.

• Heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan over a medium heat, add the onion, and cook for three to four minutes until soft. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the mustard, garlic, and herbs (reserve some thyme leaves for garnish). Add a little stock and bring to the boil, then tip in the peas and remaining stock. Bring to the boil,

KIRSTEN LYNCH, FLEET, HAMPSHIRE

FINE PRAISE

TWEET CORNER

Do you have something that you d like to share with other readers, something that will inspire them, encourage them to visit their local store or is just good news? We d love to hear from you. And, of course, we d also like your comments about the magazine.

The winner of this month s star letter will receive a selection from family owned producers, Cottage Delight, offering the perfect opportunity to sample their handmade fine foods.

All of the products are Gold Great Taste Award Winners from 2011, including favourites such as Lemon Curd, as well as the authentic flavours of Thai Mussamum Curry Paste.

Write to: Rachel Symonds, Editor, Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ or email editor@ finefoodiesmag.com

Char su chow mein with shredded leeks and fennel.

JOSH SUTTON @ GUYROPEGOURMET

Pitta bread with hummus with red onion marmalade.

Again. @STOKESSAUCES

Chicken fajitas, spicy wedges and homemade salsa. @SAMGURR

Beef wellington and seasonal vegetables. @FOODZBELIEV

READER OFFERS Please indicate below which free giveaway you are applying for and then post this form back to us at Reader Offers , Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ. Enter online www.finefoodiesmag.com Please tick:

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6

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

News update

Foodie bites Deli gives back

Fine food store Lewis & Cooper is giving back to the local community with a new charitable partnership.

The business, which has stores in Yorkshire, has chosen Herriot Hospice Homecare as its nominated charity. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, the charity needs to raise at least £200,000 to cover running costs each year.

The first fundraiser for 2012 will be its annual Shrove Tuesday pancake race between Northallerton’s businesses.

It’s not the first time Lewis & Cooper has given something back – for more than 20 years, staff have raised funds for good causes, primarily with its annual pre-Christmas shopping event. In the last two years, customers and staff have helped raise more than £5,500 for Help for Heroes.

JeRSey RoyalS SPRING

Said to symbolise the end of the dark winter days, the Jersey Royal new potatoes are springing to life.

Jersey Royal new potatoes are one of the few truly British seasonal products still available – springtime is Jersey Royals time as the season runs from the beginning of April to the end of June. When you taste Jersey Royals, you taste the result of 125 years of hand planting and age-old techniques in each bite.

Added to that, Jersey Royals are the only vegetable to have Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, meaning they can only be grown on Jersey. This means each bag sold can be traced back to the farm on which the potatoes were grown.

SOup mEEtS SaIlOr A Devon farmer has teamed up with a top chef for a new ITV series.

Rod Hall (pictured right), who runs the organic soup company Rod and Ben’s, has teamed up with Celebrity MasterChef finalist Dick Strawbridge and his son James for the ITV show Hungry Sailors.

Rod can be seen digging up potatoes and picking herbs for a summer soup with Dick, who is filmed starting his journey in Cornwall before sailing along the south coast to London. Mooring in tiny harbours and busy ports, the father and son duo drop in on local farmers, fishermen, foragers and food producers along the way.

“It was great filming with Dick as he’s full of fun,” Rod said. “He is passionate about local producers, so he was genuinely keen to find out what goes on down here at the farm.”

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Recognition of real bread rises As a nation, we’re growing increasingly concerned with avoiding additives in our food, yet it remains difficult to understand ingredient labels in many everyday items.

Which is where the Real Bread Loaf Mark could come in useful, as for bread to bear this stamp of approval, it must be additive free. Any baker wanting to use the Real Bread Loaf Mark must first sign an annual agreement that they will only use it to promote loaves made without the use of any processing aids or other artificial additives.

This follows research by Toluna on behalf of the campaign, which found that more than 70 per

cent of Britons believe it’s unacceptable that an ingredient and additives list doesn’t have to be displayed for unwrapped loaves, and that processing aids don’t have to appear on any ingredients list. It also found that 85 per cent of people said they thought a mark to show a loaf was additivefree would be useful.

The number of bakeries around Britain now using The Real Bread Loaf Mark has just passed 50.

Real Bread Campaign co-ordinator, Chris Young, said: “We still call for an Honest Crust Act that requires all bakers to declare everything that goes into a loaf, and for bakers to come clean voluntarily in the meantime, but for now the Loaf Mark is a quick way for shoppers to see a loaf’s additive-free.”

SauSage delight

The best sausages in the West Midlands have been revealed.

The 11th West Midlands Tastiest Sausage Competition has crowned butchers from Staffordshire and Wolverhampton the region’s best.

The event was organised by Heart of England fine foods and held at the AGA shop in Birmingham. A panel of 14 judges taste tested more than 80 sausages from butchers across Staffordshire, Shropshire, Herefordshire, Worcestershire, Warwickshire and Birmingham and Black Country.

Packington Moor Farm Shop, in Lichfield, won the Tastiest Breakfast Sausage category with its Packington Moor Porker, while Robinsons Butchers, Tettenhall, won the Tastiest Speciality Sausage category with its Pork and Caramelised Onion Sausage.

Cheese choice If cheese is your thing, two forthcoming events could be right up your street.

The Cheese & Wine Festival takes place at London’s Southbank Centre from April 27, giving visitors the chance to explore more than 35 stalls showing artisan cheese and dairy, foodie gifts, and wines, from as far afield as Italy, Australia and South America.

In the Cheese & Wine Cookery Theatre, Chef Valentina Harris will be co-ordinating a series of talks and cheese recipe demonstrations, while Master of Wine, Tim Atkin, will be in charge of the tutored cheese and wine tastings.

Or you could head to the Cheese Makers Market on April 14 in Old Beaconsfield. Designed for cheese lovers, the event gives the opportunity to taste, learn about, and buy cheese, featuring products from over 70 different producers.

Pasty Praise

It’s one of Britain’s best-loved exports, and now the search is on to find the best pasty.

The World Pasty Championships are due to take place at the Eden Project in Cornwall to celebrate the region’s most famous dish.

The contest is a chance for professional and amateur pasty makers in Cornwall, the rest of the UK and across the world to parade their wares. Competitors can enter categories for the traditional Cornish pasty or open sections for other varieties.

The championships are backed by the Cornish Pasty Association, after it won European Union Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status for the Cornish pasty last year. This means only pasty makers based in Cornwall, who make pasties in a traditional manner and follow a traditional recipe are able to label their products as Cornish pasties.

Tony Trenerry, Senior Sous Chef at the Eden Project, said: “Since we announced the World Pasty Championships we’ve been getting some really exciting interest, not only from pasty makers in this country but from as far afield as America and Australia. It just shows how the pasty has gone from this little corner of Great Britain to many far distant places across the globe.”

diviNe getS aPPy

Divine Chocolate is making it even easier to indulge with the creation of a new app.

Packed full of delicious chocolate recipes and much more, the Fairtrade, farmer-owned chocolate company has launched the free app for the iPhone and iPad. Featuring exclusive video content, irresistible recipes created by chocolate experts and celebrity chefs, the app also includes a Google Map guide to your nearest Divine stockist for when you’re out and about. The app also features a quick tips section of short and informative videos demonstrating some chocolate baking basics. These include essential kit, melting chocolate, ingredients, and greaseproofing.

• Search for ‘Divine App’ on the App Store (in the Lifestyle category).

SPRiNg 2012 FINE FOODIES

Product news

Shelf Life What’s neW in the World of great-tasting food

neW year, neW look

As awareness grows around the benefits of rapeseed oil, Hillfarm has given its product a makeover.

A bottle of premium Hillfarm Extra Virgin Rapeseed Oil still contains the same golden, great-tasting and 100 per cent natural, British cold-pressed oil used by chefs including James Martin, Galton Blackiston, and Raymond Blanc, but it has now been given a contemporary makeover.

The idea is to demonstrate the benefits of rapeseed oil on the label.

Shoppers will also see the Red Tractor logo and Kosher certification. The addition of a ‘spotlight on saturated fat’ on the back of the bottle helps those new to rapeseed oil to learn about the saturated fat content at just six per cent. The new label also makes it clear that this award-winning, versatile cooking oil is suitable for roasting, baking, dressing and frying.

macarOON magIc

The people over at James Chocolates have unveiled their latest addition in the shape of Macaroon Discs.

The innovative chocolate range come in flavours inspired by the Parisien macaroon craze – fresh raspberry, pistachio, vanilla praline and coffee and caramel. Each chocolate resembles a macaroon with two chocolate layers sandwiched with a yielding filling.

And they must be good as they have already won two Great Taste awards.

And for Easter, James and his team of chocolate makers have created half an egg filled with five assorted macaroon discs.

Dorset Cereals offers osCar glamour Forget the jewels, the clothes and the latest technological accessory, the goody bags at this year’s Oscars also featured the UK’s very own Dorset Cereals.

Oscar nominees from George Clooney to Meryl Streep found the company’s awardwinning mueslis, complete with bowl and spoon, in the gifting suites open to the stars after the company was selected to be part of the Official 2012 GBK’s Gift Lounge.

Mandy Cooper, Head of Communications at Dorset Cereals, comments: “When GBK contacted us about being part of the Gift Lounge at the Oscars we were tickled pink.

As a little company from Dorset, it is a huge privilege to be selected to be in front of so many A-list celebrities, not to mention a wealth of other well-established brands.”

CraCking Corkers

British made, great tasting and no artificial flavours, Corkers Crisps tick all the right boxes.

This range of crisps is made from potatoes grown in the rich Fenland soil of Cambridgeshire, and contain no artificial or MSG products.

As an added benefit, Corkers Crisps proudly carry the reassuring Red Tractor mark.

The range includes the new Sea Salt and Cider Vinegar variety, or you could try Pork Sausage and English Mustard, or Red Leicester and Caramelised Onion.

Free from additions for Nature’s Path Cereal experts Nature’s Path are focusing their new products on special diets this year.

Following the success of the free-from range for younger coeliacs in 2011, Nature’s Path will be doing plenty of work on its free from range, introducing a larger pack of its award-winning flagship brand, Mesa Sunrise.

10

FINE FOODIES sPring 2012

HaNDmaDE HEavEN

These days, we all need to eat on the go sometimes, but that doesn’t mean we want to compromise on quality.

That’s the ethos at The Handmake Cake Company, which has launched its Cakes-toGo range of rather tasty snacks.

The new eight-strong family includes Granola Slice made to exactly the same recipe as the company’s award-winning traybake, the aptly-named Caramel Heaven Slice, a mix of oaty flapjack, caramel, cranberries, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds and plain chocolate chunks. Other vareties include Chocolate Fruit & Nut Tiffin, Cranberry & Sultana Flapjack, and the very lovely Raspberry & Coconut Slice.

Interview

Celebrating the Roux legacy Michel Roux Jr talks to Fine Foodies Editor, Rachel Symonds, about celebrating his family’s culinary talents.

S

ay the name ‘Roux’ and you

about the Roux Scholarship – that is now

one I was in the kitchen while my father

could be talking about one

28 years old and it is the toughest and

was cooking. From day one I was exposed

of a number of celebrated

most prestigious competition in Britain.

to the sounds and smells of a kitchen, and

and pioneering chefs.

But then the production company felt we

then, of course, later taste.”

It could be Albert Roux,

could do more so we made it into a six-

It was really without knowing it that

the man who co-founded the famous Le

hour series. There is the Roux Scholarship

Michel Jr became increasingly familiar

Gavroche restaurant, bringing a slice of

aspect, we look historically at the two

with different foods, and how to cook

classic French cuisine to London. Or it

brothers cooking together, me cooking,

them.

may be his co-founder, brother Michel

my cousin cooking and then all of us

Roux Snr. Or, of course, it could also be

together. It was the first time we had all

food, fresh vegetables, fresh fruit. As a very

Albert’s son, Michel Roux Jr, the man who

come together for a series and it is always

young child, I would go fishing with my

now heads up Le Gavroche, as well as fronting TV series’ including MasterChef

nice when we get to work together.”

father, and we would catch a fish and eat

The Professionals and The Service. Or it could be his cousin, Alain, also in the family trade.

In short, cooking is in the DNA of the Roux family.

And now, this culinary dynasty has come together for a brand new TV series.

The Roux Legacy, airing on The Good Food channel, is a 10-part series providing extraordinary behind-the-scenes footage of the family members in the kitchens of The Waterside Inn in Berkshire, which remains the only UK restaurant to retain three Michelin stars for more than 25 years, and Le Gavroche. Viewers will also learn about the Roux Scholarship, run by the family as part of their annual search for the best new culinary talent. The best young chefs compete against each other for the prize of a lifetime; three months experience in a three Michelin starred restaurant of their choice.

“The Roux Legacy was more of a documentary about the family, going back to day one when the two brothers arrived and started the business,” Michel Jr tells me. “It originally started as an idea

12

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Early memories

“Our food culture was of having real

it. When it rained, we would go out looking for snails, not for fun but to eat

Food and cooking has always been a big

and I couldn’t have been more than

part of life in the Roux family, so it’s

seven, and we would go foraging for wild

perhaps no surprise that Michel Jr made it

rabbits. I remember it was seen as very

his life’s career, nor should it be such a

strange by people where we lived in

surprise that his own daughter, Emily, is

Kent!” he recalled.

also starting on the same path, and has been studying in France.

He recalls: “My very first memories of food are of smell rather than taste – I was almost born in the kitchen and from day

“We saw the food chain as it was, the reality of how we get our food.”

But that’s not to say it was just his famous father who influenced him.

“My mother is French and herself is a very good cook. She was brought up with the French love of food and has that heritage as much as my father does. My love of cooking is down to my mother as much as my father – it was her who fed me while my father was working and she would never open a tin or cook convenience food, even though she was bringing up two children and working. It was always fresh, always cooked to order and it was good produce.”

But he points out that cooking good quality, home-cooked fare does not have to cost the earth.

“Our meals were not expensive by any means, because we didn’t come from a

“It was always what I wanted to do, there was never anything else, and my parents were very happy that I did carry on the tradition.”

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES

13

Interview

Michel Jr with daughter, Emily

rich family, quite the contrary – my father

and the classics, so we are very similar in

British chefs and we are starting to find a

came to England in 1960 with less than

that way.”

British style. That’s evolving and will

five pounds in his pocket. Times were very tough.”

Following his father

It is those French dishes that remain on

continue to evolve – we are now seeing

his list of favourite foods to eat as well as

people come to London not just for the

cook.

shows or the shopping but for the food,

“Favourite food would be the French

because this is where some of the

Although Michel Jr eventually went into

classics, something that is heart warming

fantastic restaurants are. You couldn’t

the family trade, he feels it was really

that makes you feel good. I love any food

have said that 20 years ago. Brits are more

important to his career not to simply train

as long as it is well prepared,” he said.

curious about food too. They are willing

with his father and uncle. Instead, he

After such success, it would be natural

wanted to bring outside influences into

to want to pass it down to the next

the business and went and trained in Paris.

generation and relax a little, but Michel Jr

“It was always what I wanted to do, there was never anything else, and my

says there’s plenty more ambition in him.

“I still spend 90 per cent of my time in

to try something new.”

So, who does he admire in the culinary world?

“If you take Gary Rhodes, for example, 15 to 20 years ago he came on to TV and

parents were very happy that I did carry on

the kitchen [our interview was conducted

he made cooking fun, yet his food was still

the tradition,” he said, although added: “But

during service] – it is very important that I

serious, great food,” Michel Jr says by way

I think it was important to do my training

spend time in the kitchen, it is still my core

of an answer. “And Rick Stein, what he has

away from the family – working with your

focus,” he said. “But I would like to work on

done for British ingredients is fantastic, he

family is tough, and there is the added

another book, and there are also a couple

showed how you can use the best

pressure as you are trying to do the same

of offers for TV programmes. But it has to

ingredients from Britain and that was

thing as your parents. Training outside the

be something that I’m happy with, it has to

wonderful.”

family circle meant that I came back with

fit me, and be something that can fit

fresh ideas and my own take.”

around me being in the kitchen.”

What he felt he brought back to the

It is on British TV screens that Michel Jr is perhaps best known, having appeared on

family table was a modern approach on

does, but what really drives him each day

various programmes over the years. His first book, The Gavroche Recipe Cookbook, was

what they were doing.

back into the kitchen?

around 15 years ago, and he first appeared

He is clearly passionate about what he

“I was steeped in the classics because

“It’s to see customers with a big smile

on MasterChef in the days when Lloyd

that’s what I had grown up with but there

on their faces; the Michelin stars, the good

Grossman was the presenter. Today, he

was definitely a new approach I took. My

press reviews, they are great but to see

appears on MasterChef the Professionals

daughter, if she wants to work in the

happy faces in your restaurant, there is

with Gregg Wallace.

family business, will, I’m sure, have a new

nothing better.”

and more modern take too. Cooking has

“I have always liked MasterChef, it is a great concept and a great programme. In

moved on a generation, it is always

British food heritage

moving on and that’s what is so

In comparison to France, Britain has less of

appearances and the production

wonderful about this industry. We are

a food heritage, but Michel Jr believes it is

company talked to me about a series for

different generations, so we are different –

developing.

professionals. It is a Roux philosophy to

my father cooked with stones, and I cook

“British food culture has certainly

the new series, I did quite a few

always help working chefs or youngsters

with induction, so there are mechanical

changed over the last 20, 30 and 40 years,

in our industry, and we encourage the

differences but we both love French food

for sure,” he said. “There are some great

passing on of knowledge.” FF

14

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

UK fare

Island life I

Fine Foodies goes on a journey to discover all the Isle of Wight has to offer. t may have become famous for its

The island explored

annual music festival in recent

Situated just off the south coast, the Isle of

years, but there’s a huge amount

Wight is considered a great holiday

of appeal to the Isle of Wight all

destination for both Brits and tourists from

year round.

further afield.

The largest island in England, the

Spanning a diamond-shaped area of

almost diamond-shaped Isle of Wight has

around 380 sq km, the Isle of Wight boasts

a rich history to be proud of, coupled with

award-winning beaches and spectacular

a thriving tourist trade.

scenery, including two stretches of

Queen Victoria had her summer

Heritage Coast covering nearly half of the

residence at Osborne House, in Cowes. It

island’s 60-mile coastline. Heritage Coast

went on to become a fashionable holiday

status is only applied to coastlines of the

home for Victorians, and in fact is where

highest quality in England and Wales. In

Charles Dickens is believed to have written much of David Copperfield.

addition, more than half the island is an

Dickens himself is known to have lived

making it a popular holiday destination

near the town of Ventnor, while Winston

for tourists.

Churchill spent extended periods here.

Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty,

The perhaps most photographed sight

The Isle of Wight also boasts actor Jeremy

is the Needles, a row of three distinctive

Irons as a native, as well as film director

stacks of chalk that rise out of the sea at

Anthony Minghella and explorer and TV

the western end of the island and are

personality Bear Grylls.

flanked by a lighthouse.

As well as the top names attracted to play each year at the Isle of Wight Festival

Food heritage

in June, this summer will also see a Royal

Thanks to its green fields and often

visit. In July, The Queen, accompanied by

warm, sunny climate, in addition

the Duke of Edinburgh, is scheduled to

to being surrounded by water,

visit Cowes as part of her Diamond Jubilee

the Isle of Wight is hugely

tour.

versatile in terms of the food

Foodie fact:

The Isle o one of f Wight is locations the richest fossils wfor dinosaur day, manhile to this yr can be foare bats und. and drink it produces. And it is thanks to its milder climate that the Isle of Wight actually enjoys a longer growing season than much of the UK. The area boasts plenty of local produce, especially when it comes to seafood, locally-brewed beer, not to mention wine, cider and ice creams.

The Isle of Wight is also home to the largest garlic grower in the UK. The Garlic Farm provides more than 20 types of garlic as well as producing many chutneys and

16

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Picture courtesy IW Council, www.islandbreaks.co.uk

relishes to complement any dish. But it

juice, cider, fruit wines, liqueurs and

doesn’t end there. Due to its garlic history,

cordials. Added to that, there are also a

in 1983 the Isle of Wight Garlic Festival was

number of island breweries. And lavender

started. Since then it has grown to become

is also grown for its oil.

one of the largest events on the island

If visiting the area, you can be sure of

each year, second only to Cowes Week.

quality in the venues you eat at thanks to

Attended by 25,000 people each year, it is

the Isle of Wight Hospitality Award, which

a mixture of a country fair and garlic cuisine

helps locals and tourists alike identify top

coupled with plenty of entertainment for

quality. The marque is for everything from

children and adults.

restaurants and pubs, to tearooms and

In addition to garlic, the area also boasts three vineyards producing apple

cafes, and aims to celebrate the best in the Isle of Wight’s eating experiences. FF

Reader offer

Fine Foodies has four classic garlic hampers to give away courtesy of the people at The Garlic Farm. A collection of The Garlic Farm favourites in a lovely wicker hamper, this prize includes The Garlic Farm Cookbook, Hot Garlic Pickle, Tomato Garlic and Ginger Chutney, Horseradish Mustard with Garlic along with three Gourmet Garlic Bulbs and Garlic Fudge.

See page 6 for details.

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES

17

Food focus

Deli delicious Jennifer Britt explores all the delights of the great British deli counter.

T

he delight of the deli counter is not only in

in a baguette.

Or a melt, a slice of quiche, a

None of the dishes individually were really fancy food, insists Mark, because a

providing an abundance of

mushroom-topped pizza bread or a

great deli counter lunch is about simple

fresh, quality, delicious

home-made Chorizo sausage roll? There is

stuff done really, really well.

ingredients, but also in

always home-made soup on the go –

making shopping more adventurous.

And so we explore all that’s on offer,

and take you behind the stories of some of the UK’s best producers.

“We’re not complicated but we’re

does red lentil and chilli bean soup take

about quality ingredients like the best

your fancy?

beef, prime pork and artisan cheese, and

Sometimes a plain ham sandwich is perfection. In high season, Mark’s Gone to

freshness and being local.”

the Beach ‘meal deals’ of a made-to-order

Deli nibbles

sandwich plus crisps and a juice keep

At Henshelwoods Delicatessen in bustling

At The Cornish Deli in the seaside town of

dozens of customers fuelled each day.

York city centre, Ali Vincent inspires us

St Ives, Mark Ellwood has just taken a roast

With the deli counter spread before them,

with ideas for tasty morsels to serve with

pork loin with a “cracking crackling” out of

they often add an extra or two... a pot of

drinks or as a starter.

the oven. It’s nearly lunchtime and the

olives or sun-dried tomatoes.

Deli lunch

carving knife is to hand.

“We’ll serve this lovely pork in baguettes

Other occasions call for a feast. One romantic, who was proposing to his

Ali makes her own patés, Whitby crab, roast salmon, chicken and liver and three different varieties of lentil.

or sandwiches with salad and Cornish

girlfriend over a picnic on the beach (she

pickle,” he tempts.

said yes), pre-ordered a spread of local

oatcakes or just served as dips with Italian

crab and smoked salmon with salads and

flatbreads, which are brilliant for dipping

entice us with any one of a rolling choice

antipasto and a miniature cheese board.

because they are very hard and crunchy,”

of house specials – chilli dog, perhaps,

Even the bubbly, like most of the

she says.

with a filling of sausage topped with chilli

ingredients, was Cornish, a methode-

and grated cheese or, if we were early

champenoise Brut from the Camel Valley

with olives and honey. “Oh, it’s a fantastic

birds, a brunch-to-go of bacon with eggs

vineyard.

combination. It’s good with cheese or

Another time he might have wanted to

“They all go nicely on blinis or little

Another speciality is olive jam, made

cold meats or just brush some on bruschetta and top with sun-dried tomato,” suggests Ali. “Olive jam is Spanish in origin and we used to buy it in until our supplier stopped importing it so we started making our own because our customers love it. We sell it by weight and it’s very popular.”

Some favourites at Henshelwoods to include in a fantastic antipasto spread are balsamic beetroot with red onion, courgette salad with pine nuts and a tomato sauce, garlic cloves and caper berries on the stalk.

Generally, though, her customers buy a small selection, often at the weekend, for a “little treat”. Ali emphasises that you don’t

18

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

need to spend a huge amount of money

Deli patisserie

at the deli counter.

People pop in to Val Bolton’s Deli-Fine

“It’s easy to keep to a budget. We’re very happy to do tiny amounts. If you

shop at Wrexham, in North Wales,

need just three blush tomatoes to

intending to have just a modest coffee or

decorate canapés, that’s fine. People love

tea, or sandwich, and then they see the

the variety. They can have lots of small

cakes. They know they shouldn’t but...

“People do get tempted. We sell lots of

pots of lots of different things they like...

cakes all day long to eat in and take away.

and they can taste before they buy.”

I think they add something special to a

Deli meats

farm produces its own beef as well, which

Adrian Pardy first trained as a butcher at

is roasted rare, nothing added and sliced

the Newlyns Farm Shop in Hampshire

in the deli. “Beautiful,” pronounces Adrian.

before being asked to take on responsibility for the deli counter.

Then there are Newlyns Farm Scotch

deli counter,” says Val. If she were inviting her own friends to an afternoon tea, she would serve her sweet favourites of lemon meringue pie,

eggs, real hale and hearty comfort food.

strawberry Bakewell, chocolate shortbread

“I love this job, talking to customers,

“They are four times the size of a standard

and scones.

getting them to try things and seeing the

Scotch egg and a thousand times tastier.”

“That’s a lovely selection and I think

For a continental meat party platter,

they are probably the most popular in the

enjoyment on their faces,” says Adrian.

For a great meat centrepiece for a

Adrian recommends a choice of two or

shop as well,” says Val, who has two

buffet, Adrian would personally be

three salamis, a chorizo and a Parma ham.

suppliers of homemade cakes delivering

tempted to keep it really simple with

His personal Continental favourite is

two or three times a week. She likes to

generous servings of ham and beef.

Spanish Iberico Bellota salami... Iberico is

offer a changing selection of slices,

the traditional breed of black pig and the

muffins, shortbread and cutting cakes and

bellota are the acorns they are fed on.

takes orders for whole cakes and for

All Newlyns ham is from the farm’s own free-range Berkshire-breed pigs and is cured on site, in a choice of finishes,

“It reminds me of a summer’s evening,

desserts for dinner parties, as well. Old-

breaded, smoked or glazed with

relaxing with a glass of sherry and a bowl

timers such as egg custard tarts are really

marmalade or honey and mustard. The

of olives,” he says.

back in fashion.

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES

19

Food focus Keeping things fresh is not a problem: “I put a tray of cakes out in the morning and by the end of the day, they are all gone.”

Val cannot imagine why people would want to buy cakes from the supermarket when they can have home-made from the deli.

“You can immediately tell the difference.

The flavour is just completely different.”

Deli cheeseboard Pearces Farm Shop, near Buntingford in Hertfordshire, has a repertoire of more than 100 cheeses and is proud of its British selection, representing the length and breadth of the nation, from Scotland to Sussex.

But when it comes to putting together a cheeseboard, cheese buyer Ruth Brierley recommends a less-is-more approach.

“You can have too many flavours on a cheeseboard. Three or four is plenty,” says Ruth.

A good cheeseboard has a good

share with your guests.

A cheese with some kind of individual connection is a good starting point.

“People love cheeses from places they have visited or could visit,” says Ruth.

When we ask her to suggest a classic

Awards. Ruth also has a more personal reason for choosing this particular cheese.

“I am a bit partisan because I’m from Devon so I drive past Wookey Hole when I go to my parents.”

A cheese from Devon is also a must for

after-dinner selection that she might

Ruth and she suggests Beenleigh Blue. It’s

serve at her own dinner table, her first

slightly sweet and not as salty as a lot of

balance of flavours and textures. A great

choice is the award-winning Cheddar

blue cheeses. It is one of only three blue

one also becomes a talking point, so

aged for 12 months in Wookey Hole

cheeses made in Britain using ewes’ milk.

when you are buying ask at the counter

Caves in Somerset. It was Supreme

for interesting nuggets of information to

Champion at last year’s International Food

For a soft cheese, Ruth plumps for a brie from the Scottish Highlands, Morangie, which proved particularly popular at

Fine Foodies at the deli counter

Pearces for Burns Night earlier in the year.

We just couldn’t resist suggesting some of our own deli counter favourites.

Our cheeseboard might include buttery Cotswold Brie from Simon Weaver’s Gloucestershire creamery, Teifi Original, a Gouda-style made by Welsh-Dutch cheesemakers John and Patrice SavageOnstwedder and Paula van Werkhoven in Carmarthenshire, plus some Real Yorkshire Wensleydale and Cranberries from the Wensleydale Creamery.

Fresh fruit or one of Tracklements fruit cheeses in 100g pots, Damson, Gooseberry or Quince (probably one of each!) would be the perfect accompaniment. Anything from the Fudges savoury biscuits range is irresistible, with or without cheese.

Bread from Hobbs Bakery, their Wild White loaf, a yeast- and dairy-free sourdough, or their Fig & Walnut, would be a treat for a cheesy picnic.

Serious Pig’s Snacking Salami made with free-range pork from West Country farms is a tasty addition to the lunch box

closer to home, Childwickbury

20

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

and occasionally we indulge in a pork pie – it’s naughty, we know, but such a delicious weakness. The Queen-Size Crispy Classic from Walkers of Leicester is ideal for two people to share or for something a little more daring, Lincolshire piemakers Adams & Harlow, make a Red Devil version, with cheese and chilli.

For accompaniment, we’d love anything from Relish (the new branding of the Hawkshead Relish Company) because we love their beautiful black and white packaging as much as the fantastic taste.

Red Onion Marmalade is our favourite but they do spicier stuff as well.

For a pie supper, we’d offer a choice, Spinach, Feta and Toasted Pinenut from Higgidy, or Pieminister’s Pietanic made with delicious chunks of MSC-certified smoked haddock, salmon and pollock.

A Daas Blond organic Belgian beer would accompany either nicely, or for sharing, one of Bonterra Wine’s whites with Luscombe Raspberry Lemonade for anyone who’s driving.

Her final choice comes from much (pronounced Chilbury) goats’ cheese, with a mild flavour, made every morning within hours of milking on a smallholding near St Albans. Nearly all of it is sold locally so you probably won’t find it on a deli counter near you but you will be sure to find your own local specialities and they will be just as delicious. FF

Reader offer

Fine Foodies is offering readers the chance to win an Olives Et Al Prize Winner’s Hamper to the value of £45. The company won an impressive 13 Great Taste Awards in 2011 and to celebrate they put them all into a hamper with some helpful recipe cards. Products include Aussie Olives, Tapenade Provencal, Romesco, Pesto alla Genovese, Rosemary & Sea Salt Reganas, Pink Mojo and Lemon & Dill dressings, Harissa Almonds, and Captain Tiptoes Wasabi. See page 6 for details.

In season

Lovely

leeks E

ating home-grown,

seasonal produce can be a challenge during the chillier months of the year,

have ever cursed a muddy leek at the

the halves back together for slicing.

when fewer native

sink, take this tip from a Welshman who

Simple!

vegetables are available.

But leeks will be lifted from the fields

used to work at Riverford s organic farm.

Incredibly versatile, leeks can be used

Insert a knife just above the bottom of

in soups and stews as well as stir fries,

for a few weeks yet, so enjoy them before

the leek and slice up to the top, splitting

sauces or roasted with cauliflower to

they disappear until autumn.

it in two with the halves still attached

bring out their flavour. Try Riverford chef

at the bottom. You can then easily

Jane Baxter s seasonal recipes below and

mud down between the leek s layers,

wash the mud out under a running tap,

opposite ‒ you may even convert veg-

making them a trial to clean. If you

shake off the excess water and put

averse children with the pizza bread.

Rain splash in the field often washes

Quick mouclade of mussels

Serves 4

By Jane Baxter, from Everyday and Sunday ‒ Recipes from Riverford Farm Cookbook. The sauce, combining leeks, mussels and curry, is the sort that makes you want to pick up the bowl and down the lot!

Ingredients:

• In a large pan, cook the leeks, garlic,

• 2kg mussels in their shells

saffron and curry powder in the oil

• 4 leeks, finely chopped

and butter for about 10 minutes. Add

• 2 garlic cloves, crushed

the cider, bring to a boil and throw in

• Pinch of saffron

the mussels. Cover, and leave on a

• 1tsp good quality curry powder

high heat until the mussels start to

• 1tbsp olive oil

open.

• 15g unsalted butter

• Strain the mussels and keep warm.

• 250ml dry cider

• Return the cooking liquor to the

• 1 egg yolk

pan and reduce by half over a high

• 250ml double cream

heat. Whisk the egg yolk with the

• 1tsp cornflour

cream and cornflour, then add the

• Handful of chopped parsley

mixture slowly to the hot sauce, whisking all the time. The sauce

22

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Method:

should thicken.

• Clean the mussels in cold water,

• Pour over the mussels and sprinkle

remove their beards and discard any

with parsley. Warn your diners to

that are open.

discard any mussels that remain shut.

Leek and Roquefort pizza bread Serves 4

By Jane Baxter, Riverford Field Kitchen, taken from the Riverford

Farm Cook Book Ingredients: • 40ml olive oil • 1 garlic clove, peeled • 1 bird s eye chilli, halved • 25g butter • 2 small leeks, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced across • 30g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated • 100g mozzarella cheese, grated • 1½ tbsp finely chopped oregano • 1½ tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley • 60g Roquefort or other blue cheese, crumbled • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the dough: • 300g strong white flour • 7g sachet of dried yeast • 1tsp salt • 180ml lukewarm water • 1½ tbsp olive oil Method: • Put the olive oil, garlic and chilli in a small bowl and set aside to infuse the oil. To make the dough, combine the flour, yeast and salt in a bowl, then stir in the water and oil.

season with salt and pepper. Remove

flour and roll out each piece of dough on

• Turn out onto a lightly floured surface

from the heat and leave to cool.

the parchment, making a round about

and knead for five to eight minutes, until

• Place two heavy-based baking sheets or

22cm in diameter. Brush with the

smooth and elastic. Place in a lightly oiled

terracotta tiles in the oven and preheat

flavoured oil and scatter with the cheese

bowl, cover with cling film and set aside in

the oven to 250° C/Gas Mark 10. Combine

mixture, followed by the leeks, then the

a warm place for one hour or until

the Parmesan, mozzarella and herbs in a

Roquefort.

doubled in size.

small bowl.

• Slide on pizza, still on the paper, onto

• Meanwhile, heat the butter in a small

• Cut four sheets of baking parchment,

each hot baking sheet or tile and bake for

frying pan, add the leeks and cook over a

each large enough to hold a 22cm pizza.

eight to 10 minutes, until golden. Serve

low to medium heat for about 10

Divide the risen dough into four. Dust the

immediately. Cook the remaining pizzas

minutes, until soft but not coloured and

pieces of baking parchment with a little

in the same way.

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES

23

Product news

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THE ARTISAN BAKER S CHOICE

Gilchesters is a busy family-run business in the beautiful county of Northumberland. They pride themselves on the fact that the delicious baking you do with their flours, the Spelt biscuits you nibble with your cheese, all started as grain in their fields. Once harvested they get their mill stones grinding and let the flour flow...

Gilchesters ranges of organic flours are finely stone-ground, full of flavour and the artisan baker s choice! Their savoury Spelt biscuits are handcrafted and ideal to accompany cheese, patés or just when you need a naughty nibble. Packed with goodness ‒ even wheat-sensitive customers can enjoy them for Spelt is a healthy and delicious alternative to wheat.

Call 01661 886119 or email info@gilchesters.com

24

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

When tea was first discovered, it was savoured as a rare commodity. With it s rise in popularity and mass production, tea has become a drink that is often consumed in a rush, with no sense of ceremony. Newby aims to bring tea back up to its elevated position and has created a range of flowering Chinese teas. When steeped in hot water, each blossom magically unfurls into a stunning floral display. As only the finest quality green teas are selected to create these hand-made flowering teas, they taste as good as they look. For more information, visit www.newbyteas.com or www.cheztoi.co.uk

AWARD-WINNING MINTS

Summerdown grows and harvests traditional Black Mitcham peppermint and distils its pure mint oil. They use it to manufacture their unique brand of peppermint products, including these stylish chocolate peppermint creams, chocolate mint thins and their exceptional peppermint tea ‒ between them they ve won six Great Taste Awards in three years! The single estate quality oil has a highly distinctive and smooth taste ‒ a taste that has been lost for generations. Bright, fresh and aromatic, it is very different from the harsher, blended, imported peppermint of the past 60 years. To find out more call 01256 780252 or visit www.summerdownmint.com

A TOUCH OF GARLIC

The Garlic Farm on the Isle of Wight has been growing garlic for over 30 years although these days it s not just about the bulb. They also do chutneys, relishes and mayo s - all with a touch of garlic of course. But more recently they ve added to their butter family with Garlic Butter with Oak Smoked Tomatoes and Tarragon, it s great on new potatoes or liberally applied to corn on the cob!

For more information visit www.thegarlicfarm.co.uk, email tomhb@thegarlicfarm.co.uk or tel: 01983 865378/ mobile: 07970 763083.

Recipes

Gordon’s

great escape

Following his culinary adventure across India, Gordon Ramsay offers 100 classic recipes in his latest book, Gordon Ramsay s Great Escape.

Butter chicken

Serves 4

Butter chicken, or murgh makhani, was one of the first dishes I tasted when I went to India. Its origins can be traced back to Moghul times, but the dish and its history is most closely associated with Delhi s famous Moti Mahal restaurant, where I had the pleasure of eating this fantastic dish. Over time, numerous chefs have attempted to emulate the rich buttery sauce, and flavours vary slightly between restaurants. This is my version of the classic dish.

Ingredients:

Sauce:

• 800g boneless and skinless chicken thighs, cut into 3-4cm pieces

• 1½ tbsp ghee or melted unsalted butter

• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely crushed

• 2cm ginger, peeled and finely chopped

• 2cm ginger, peeled and finely grated • ½ tsp fine sea salt • ½ tsp hot chilli powder • 1½ tbsp lemon juice • 75ml natural yoghurt • ½ tsp garam masala • ½ tsp ground turmeric • 1tsp ground cumin • 1-2tbsp vegetable oil, for brushing

26

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped • 1 cardamom pod, seeds lightly crushed • 2 cloves • 1tsp ground coriander • 1tsp garam masala • 1tsp ground turmeric • 1tsp hot chilli powder, or to taste • 275ml tomato puree • 1tbsp lemon juice • 40g unsalted butter • 100ml double cream • 1tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Method: • Place the chicken in a bowl with the garlic, ginger, salt, chilli powder and lemon juice.

Mix, cover with cling film and chill for 30 minutes. Mix together the yoghurt, garam masala, turmeric and cumin and add to the chicken, making sure that each piece is well coated with the mixture. Cover again and chill for three to four hours.

• Preheat the oven to 180° C/Fan 160° C/Gas 4. Put the marinated chicken pieces on a grill rack set on a baking tray and bake for eight to 10 minutes. Brush the chicken pieces with a little oil and turn them over. Bake for another 10 to 12 minutes until just cooked through.

• For the sauce, heat the ghee or butter in a pan and add the garlic and ginger. Fry for a minute or so then add the cardamom, cloves, coriander, garam masala, turmeric and chilli powder. Stir well and fry for one to two minutes until they give off a lovely aroma. Stir in the tomato puree and lemon juice and cook for another couple of minutes. Add the chicken pieces to the sauce and stir well to coat. Finally, add the butter and cream and stir continuously until the butter has melted and the sauce is smooth.

Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer to a warm bowl and serve hot, garnished with chopped coriander.

Spiced leg of lamb wrapped with spring onions

Serves 6

This is my modern take on a Rajasthani classic called khud khargosh, an ingenious recipe for pit-roasting meat in the desert using only natural resources: hot coals and desert sand. I was shown how to make the original recipe by the nephew of the Maharajah of Jodphur and was told that the dish was traditionally made with hare (khargosh) until the hunting ban in the 1970s, which led to the popular use of goat or mutton. The original tenderiser for the meat came in the form of kachri, which resembles a small yellowish-brown melon growing wild in the desert areas. Cooked fresh, kachri tastes of a mildly sour melon but it is also frequently dried and ground into a powder. It is rarely found outside of Rajasthan in either form, but I find that a little lemon juice provides a similar effect.

Ingredients: • Large bunch of long spring onions, about 10-12 • 4 large or 6 small ready-made chapattis • 2.75kg leg of lamb, boned, butterflied and rolled • 2 large banana leaves Marinade: • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped • 2tbsp ghee, or melted unsalted butter • 1tsp sea salt, or to taste • 1tsp hot chilli powder • 1tsp ground coriander • 1tsp garam masala • 1 large onion, peeled and roughly chopped • 3 ripe plum tomatoes, roughly chopped • Small bunch coriander, leaves and stems roughly chopped • Juice of ½ lemon (or 2tbsp ground kachri) Dry spice rub: • 1tsp fine sea salt • 1tsp hot chilli powder • 2tsp garam masala

Method: • First, make the marinade. Put all the ingredients into a food processor and blend to a wet paste, stopping the machine to scrape down the bowl of the processor a few times. Transfer the paste to a bowl and set aside. In another small bowl, mix together the ingredients for the dry spice rub.

• Lightly blanch the spring onions in a pan of boiling water for about a minute to soften them. Refresh under cold running water and drain well.

• Preheat the oven to 200° C/Fan 180° C/Gas 6.

Lay out four long strings along a work surface, about 5cm apart. Overlap the chapattis on top to form a rough triangle that is wide and long enough to wrap around the leg of lamb. Arrange the blanched spring onions in a single layer on top.

• Open out the lamb, skinned-side up, on a chopping board and sprinkle all over with the dry spice rub. Turn the lamb around and lay on top of the spring onions. Spread the marinade all along the boned side of the meat. Roll the lamb into a log then wrap the

chapattis and spring onions around the joint and secure with the strings. Put the whole thing on two large, overlapping banana leaves that have been softened slightly over a low flame. Wrap the leaves around the lamb like a parcel, again securing with string.

• Put on a large roasting tin and roast for about 1¼ to 1¾ hours until the lamb has just cooked through. To check, insert a metal skewer into the centre of the joint for 10 seconds then remove and feel it against your wrist. It should feel hot. Remove the lamb from the oven and leave to rest for about 15 to 20 minutes.

• To serve, unwrap the banana leaves and remove the strings. Unwrap the chapattis and transfer the lamb to a carving board. Slice thickly then serve each slice on a chapatti, which would have absorbed some marinade and the flavourful juices from the meat during cooking. To add some fresh flavours, serve with a sliced tomato, cucumber, onion and mint salad.

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES

27

Recipes

Sambar

Serves 4-6

This is a thin vegetable stew flavoured with tamarind and thickened with tuvar dal, which is very popular in the southern regions, especially in Andhra Pradesh Karnatake, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu. Each region has a particular way of eating sambar, but it is almost always served with green coconut and tomato chutneys and either rice or an Indian flat bread, such as dosa. I had the honour of making my first sambar with Sambar Mani, who grew up in one of Mumbai s largest slums, and he now makes a good living catering for small and large events within the slums. Mani has had a lifelong love of cooking and his attention to detail shows in his food. His sambar was absolutely delicious, unlike any Indian vegetarian food I had tried previously in the UK. This recipe is my humble attempt at replicating the flavours of Mani s sambar.

Ingredients: Marinade: • 2tsp fenugreek seeds • 1tbsp yellow split peas • 2tsp coriander seeds • 6 curry leaves • 4 dried red chillies Sambar: • 200g split pigeon pea lentils (tuvar dal) • 6 curry leaves • 100g tamarind pulp • 2tbsp vegetable oil • 1tsp mustard seeds • 1tsp fennel seeds • ½ tsp cumin seeds • 4 dried red chillies • 1 medium aubergine, trimmed and cut into 2cm pieces • ¼ butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into 2cm pieces • 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 2cm pieces • 1tsp ground turmeric • 1tsp sea salt, or to taste • 50g okra, washed, dried and trimmed • 4 tomatoes, skinned and finely chopped • 1tsp ground coriander • 1tsp red chilli powder • Small bunch coriander, leaves picked and chopped • 1tbsp ghee or melted unsalted butter Method: • Place a frying pan over a medium heat and carefully roast all the ingredients for the masala.

When the spices begin to smell very fragrant and are nicely roasted, remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool completely. Use a spice grinder or pestle and mortar to grind the spices into a powder. Tip into a small bowl and add enough water, about three to four tablespoons, to form a thick paste with a slow-dropping consistency.

• Put the tuvar dal and curry leaves into a medium saucepan and cover with 1½ litres of water. Bring to the boil and skim off any scum that rises to the surface. Reduce the heat slightly and leave to simmer for 25 to 30 minutes or until the lentils are tender. Drain and set aside.

• Soak the tamarind in 200ml of hot water for 20 minutes; use your hands to break down the block into smaller pieces. Strain the mixture through a sieve and discard the husk and seeds.

• Heat the vegetable oil in a large pan and add the

mustard, fennel and cumin seeds and the dried chillies.

Cook for one minute or until the spices become very fragrant. Add the aubergine, butternut squash and carrots, stirring well to coat the vegetables in the spices.

After two to three minutes add the turmeric, salt and tamarind water to the pan and bring to the boil. Boil for eight to 10 minutes or until the vegetables are tender but not mushy.

• Add the okra, cooked lentils, ground masala spice, chopped tomatoes, ground coriander and chilli powder to the pan and stir well. Add more water to the pan if necessary (the sambar should be quite thin in consistency). Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and leave to simmer for five minutes until the okra is just tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

• Just before serving, stir through the chopped coriander and ghee or butter. Serve the sambar hot with freshly steamed rice and warm Indian breads.

Discover more recipes in Gordon Ramsay s Great Escape (HarperCollins, £15.99).

Images © Emma Lee.

28

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Recipes

Cooking with

Mary

One of Britain’s best-loved chefs, Mary Berry’s latest work features more than 1,000 tried and tested recipes for the ultimate family cookbook.

Spinach gnocchi with tomato sauce

Serves 4

Ingredients:

Tomato sauce:

To serve:

• 1kg (2lb) spinach leaves

• 30g (1oz) butter

• 125g (4oz) butter

• 375g (12oz) ricotta cheese

• 1 small onion, chopped

• 3 eggs

• 1 small carrot, chopped

• Grated parmesan cheese and parmesan shavings

• 4tbsp grated parmesan cheese

• 30g (1oz) plain flour

• Pinch of grated nutmeg

• 1 x 400g can chopped tomatoes

• Salt and black pepper

• 300ml (½pint) vegetable stock

• 60-75g (2-2½oz) plain flour

• 1 bay leaf • 1tsp caster sugar

30

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Method: • Wash the spinach and put into a saucepan with only the water remaining on the leaves.

Cook over a gentle heat until just wilted. Drain the spinach thoroughly, squeezing to remove any excess water.

• Put the spinach, ricotta, eggs, Parmesan and nutmeg into a food processor, season with salt and pepper and purée until smooth. Turn into a bowl and gradually add flour until the mixture just holds its shape.

• Using 2 dessertspoons, form the mixture into 20 oval shapes. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for one hour.

• Make the tomato sauce; melt the butter in a pan, add the onion and carrot, and cook for 10 minutes or until softened. Sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring, for one minute. Add the tomatoes, stock, bay leaf, and sugar, season with salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Purée in a food processor until smooth. Keep hot.

• Cook the gnocchi in batches in boiling salted water for about five minutes or until they float to the surface. Lift out and keep hot.

Melt the butter and pour over the gnocchi.

Serve the gnocchi hot, with the tomato sauce, grated Parmesan, and Parmesan shavings.

Cook’s know-how

Ballotine of chicken

Serves 10

A ballotine is a bird or cut of meat that has been boned, stuffed, and rolled. It is slowly cooked in the oven, allowed to cool, then chilled for several hours or overnight until firm. With its colourful, pistachio-studded filling, this ballotine makes an excellent centrepiece for a buffet party, and is easy to slice and serve.

Ingredients:

• 1tsp chopped fresh sage

• 2kg (4lb) chicken, boned

• ½ tsp ground ginger

• 4 thin slices of cooked ham

• ½ tsp ground cinnamon

• 125g (4oz) pistachio nuts, shelled

• Salt and black pepper

• 60g (2oz) butter, softened • 600ml (1pint) chicken stock Stuffing: • 500g (1lb) belly pork • 375g (12oz) chicken livers, trimmed • 250g (8oz) streaky bacon rashers, rinds removed, coarsely chopped • 2 shallots, quartered • 2 garlic cloves • 4tbsp brandy • 2tsp chopped fresh thyme

Method: • Make the stuffing; chop the pork into 5mm ( in) pieces, and place in a bowl.

• Purée the chicken livers, bacon, shallots, garlic, and brandy in a food processor until smooth. Add to the pork in the bowl with the thyme, sage, ginger, and cinnamon, and season generously with salt and pepper. Stir well to combine.

• Place the boned chicken, skin-side down, between two pieces of cling film and pound to an even thickness with a rolling pin.

Classic French ballotine recipes wrap the chicken roll in muslin before cooking, but this is not necessary.

• Remove the cling film from the chicken, and assemble the ballotine. Tie several pieces of string around the chicken to keep it in shape.

• Spread the softened butter over the chicken skin, and season generously with salt and pepper. Place the chicken roll on a wire rack in a roasting tin.

• Bring the stock to a boil, and pour over the chicken in the roasting tin. Cook in a preheated oven at 160° C (140° C fan/Gas 3), basting occasionally and adding more stock if necessary, for two hours or until the juices run clear when the chicken is pierced.

• Transfer the ballotine to a plate, and leave to cool. Cover and chill overnight. Cut into thin slices to serve.

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES

31

Recipes

Hot chocolate soufflés Ingredients: • 125g (4oz) plain chocolate • 2tbsp water • 300ml (½ pint) milk • 45g (1½ oz) butter, plus extra for greasing • 45g (1½ oz) plain flour • 2-3 drops of vanilla extract • 60g (2oz) caster sugar • 4 egg yolks • 5 egg whites • Sifted icing sugar for dusting • 4 x 300ml (½ pint) soufflé dishes Method: • Break the chocolate into pieces, and put into a small saucepan with the measured water and a few tablespoons of the milk.

Heat gently, stirring, until the chocolate has melted. Add the remaining milk, stirring to blend.

• Melt the butter in a pan, add the flour, and cook, stirring, for one minute. Remove from the heat, and gradually add the chocolate and milk mixture. Bring to a boil, stirring, until the sauce has thickened. Stir in the vanilla extract and caster sugar, and leave to cool.

• Beat the egg yolks into the cooled chocolate mixture. Lightly butter the individual soufflé dishes and set aside.

• Whisk the egg whites until stiff but not dry.

Stir one large spoonful of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then carefully fold in the remainder. Divide the mixture among the four soufflé dishes.

Serves 4

• Place on a hot baking tray and bake in a preheated oven at 190° C (170° C fan/Gas 5) for 40-45 minutes until the soufflés are well risen and firm. Dust with sifted icing sugar. Serve the soufflés at once.

Cook’s know-how

If you prefer, you can make one large soufflé instead of individual soufflés.

Simply use one 1.25 litre (2 pint) soufflé dish and bake in the oven for 45-50 minutes. Another alternative is to make eight small soufflés, ideal for a dinner party after a rich main course.

If you use eight 150 ml ( pint) dishes they will take about 20-30 minutes to bake in the oven.

Mary Berry s Complete Cookbook, published by DK, priced £25, is available from dk.com 32

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Global foodie

Seasons matter I Greek writer Aglaia Kremezi explores the ancient traditions that have shaped food culture in Greece. n the mountainous and rocky

devised many different dishes for them;

during the last 50 years, bringing with them

Greek countryside, it is not

greens or zucchini are braised with onion

the cooking and culinary habits of their

possible to pasture large herds

or garlic with the addition of bulgur, rice,

mothers and grandmothers. Most have kept

and provide meat for everybody.

or potatoes to make a main course that is

their ancestors’ village homes and visit

Thus, until recently Greeks have

often accompanied by feta or some other

them on long weekends, summer holidays

been mainly vegetarian, not by choice

cheese. Larger leafy greens can be rolled

and at Christmas and Easter. Many have also

but by necessity.

around a stuffing of rice and herbs, while

kept much of their land, so it is common for

zucchini and squash are hollowed and

Greek families to produce the olive oil they

filled with a similar stuffing.

consume – about 40 pounds per person a

Since ancient times right up until the late 1960s, meat was a rare, festive dish consumed on Sundays, at Easter and

Seasonal vegetables are braised with

year! And when they don’t produce it

Christmas, and during important family

lamb, pork or veal for more festive Sunday

themselves, they buy it from friends who

feasts. The traditional diet is, in fact, based

meals, along with wild greens or curly

have surplus.

on regional, seasonal produce; garden

endive, the outer leaves of lettuce, celery

vegetables and leafy greens called horta,

or artichokes braised with meat and often

agricultural past. With the recent economic

which are either foraged from the hills

served with creamy avgolemono (egg

crisis and high unemployment there seems

and fields in the winter and early spring, or

and lemon sauce).

to be a trend for young people to leave

This reflects Greek society’s largely

cultivated, various kinds of dandelion and

There is a plethora of pites (thin filo-

chicory, mustard greens – both sweet and

wrapped pies) that can contain every kind

Athens and go back to their ancestral

bitter – and of course chard, spinach and

of vegetable, herb and green, together

in the summer vlita (amaranth shoots).

with cheese or leftover meat and herbs.

Religious influences

villages to try to live off the land.

People following the new trend of

Pites, to me, epitomise the home-cook’s

In its long history, Greece has been

foraged greens can learn a lot from the

ingenuity; small scraps of anything, often

subjected to many culinary influences. The

Greeks. Besides greens, seasonal

just a few garden herbs together with

Venetians and Genoese – who ruled most

vegetables are the basic element used in

cheese and eggs, are transformed into

of the country during the Middle Ages –

dishes served every day at Greek tables.

wonderful crunchy delicacies, enclosed in

and later the Ottoman Turks, who made

These often go hand in hand with pulses,

filo crust that home cooks roll with the

Greece part of their empire and remained

beans of all kinds, chickpeas, lentils and

dexterity of a ballet dancer, from a dough

the rulers of northern Greece and Crete up

grains, mainly in the form of bread,

of just flour, water and olive oil.

until the early 1900s, have all left their marks

vegetables and greens enriched with fruity

Hortopita (greens pie), also called

on Greek cooking.

But by far the most important element

olive oil and complemented with olives,

spanakopita (spinach pie), is probably the

local cheeses, yogurt, occasionally fresh or

most common example, although the

that has shaped people’s eating habits was

cured fish, and small amounts of meat.

one you are likely to find in Greek

the rules of the Greek Orthodox Church.

restaurants bears little resemblance to the

Even non-religious Greeks often abstain

real thing.

from foods deriving from animals – meat,

It is a sensible fare followed for hundreds of years by previous generations not because they chose to

After the mid1960s, as the country

dairy products, and eggs – during the fast

eat healthily, but because they had to

became more affluent, meat gradually

days that precede Easter, Christmas, and

make do with whatever was available.

began to play a significant role in people’s

other religious occasions. It is notable that

everyday diet.

even McDonald’s in Greece offer special

Cooking styles

Around that time, the Greek

menus during those days.

The female cooks all over Greece invented

demographic structure changed. At least

a myriad of ways to make up horta (leafy

four out of 10 middle-aged Greeks who, in

seems to have its roots in the pagan

greens) or squash in the winter, and

the early 21st century lived in the big

agricultural spring festivals of antiquity.

zucchini later in the spring, for example.

cities – Athens and Thessalonica – came

Celebrated in the open country, amidst

For months, these were the only

originally from agricultural areas. They

fragrant herbs and multicoloured flowers,

vegetables they could get and they

moved with their families to the cities

the Easter table features locally raised, tiny

34

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Easter, Greece’s most important feast,

succulent spit-roasted lamb or kid. The

scarce, and the best fish islanders manage

cup of coffee and a cookie. Wine

traditional Easter sweets are made with

to catch is sold to the big cities.

accompanies the meals, especially dinner,

myzithra, a generic name for the various

and a salad of fresh, raw or blanched seasonal

regional creamy fresh sheep or goat milk

Modern culture

cheeses of the season.

Greece has no restaurant tradition and the

everyday table. Seasonal fruits are the most

best magirefta (cooked dishes) are only

common dessert. Sweets were originally part

savoured in the homes.

of the festive table but now tend to be eaten

Many dishes are still closely related to religious holidays, although pizza and hamburgers, as well as gyro and the

Traditionally, there are two kinds of

vegetables or greens is always part of the

at all times of the day, while meat has

ubiquitous Greek salad, tend to banalise

restaurants that attract the Greeks when

modern Greek food. Magiritsa, a delicious

they want to entertain their families and

soup made from chopped lamb’s innards,

friends. One is hasapotaverna (butcher’s

characteristic of Greek food is that it follows

scallions, and dill, finished with tart egg

tavern) that offers charcoal grilled meat

the seasons.

and lemon sauce, is only eaten on Good

(baby lamb, kid, pork, veal and occasionally

Saturday after the midnight Resurrection

chicken) by weight. Here, meat-lovers

(stuffed tomatoes and peppers) or

Mass. Pork is associated with the Christmas

have a feast at reasonable prices.

melitzanosalata (eggplant spread) in the

and New Year’s table, as pig slaughtering

Tourists are probably more familiar with

become an almost everyday staple.

But generally, the most important

In the homes, cooks don’t make yemista

winter, although these vegetables are now

and curing is done in the heart of the

psarotaverna (fish tavern), the other kind of

available all year round. The frugal Greek

winter. Fish is consumed on March 25,

traditional Greek restaurant, as these are

cooks have learned to combine simple

Annunciation Day, and always at the

scattered all over the shoreline, on the

produce to create dishes that dietitians

solemn meals that follow the funerals.

islands and the mainland. Fresh fish and

now use as models for the famed healthy

With its many islands, Greece has probably

seafood, the catch of the day, is grilled or

Mediterranean diet.

as many boats per capita as cars.

fried according to the customer’s choice.

Nevertheless, fish and seafood has never

Both meat and fish taverns offer a few

enthusiastically left behind this traditional

been plentiful enough to become an

appetisers and seasonal salads.

fare, adopting the unhealthy eating habits

everyday food, not even for people who

People eat lunch around 2pm and dinner

The irony is that modern Greeks have

of the wealthy northern Europeans and

live by the sea. The fish and seafood of the

around 9pm, and in the summer around

Americans in their quest to forget their hard

Aegean is exceptionally delicious but

10pm or even later. Breakfast is usually just a

poverty-stricken village past. FF

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES

35

Global foodie

Recipes Kolokytho-keftedes

(zucchini fritters with basil and oregano)

Makes 6 to 8 meze servings A much sought-after appetiser served at Greek taverns today. In the old days it was considered a poor man’s keftedes (meatballs) for the people who could not afford to buy meat. You can find similar fritters with all kinds of vegetables and greens (see note). The mixture needs to be fairly dry, so squeeze as much liquid out of

• ½-1 cup toasted wholewheat breadcrumbs • 1 large egg • ½ cup chopped basil leaves • 1tbsp Greek dried oregano • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • Olive oil and safflower oil, for frying • 1 cup thick Greek yogurt (optional)

the grated zucchini as you can.

Ingredients: • 4 cups grated zucchini (3-4 zucchini) or squash (see note) • 1 cup finely chopped onion • Salt • 1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley • 1 cup grated hard myzithra, kefalotyri, Pecorino Romano, or Parmesan cheese

Method: • Toss the zucchini and onion with 1½ tsp salt and let them drain in a colander for at least one hour. Squeeze handfuls of the mixture to extract as much water as possible.

• In a large bowl, combine the zucchini, parsley, cheese, ½ cup breadcrumbs, egg, basil, oregano, and pepper to taste.

• In a large, deep skillet, heat oil over

medium-high heat to 350° F. • Make a test fritter; stir the zucchini mixture and, using a spoon, scoop a heaped tablespoon (about the size of a golf ball). Fry in the hot oil, turning once, until browned, about three minutes. If too wet, adjust the texture with more breadcrumbs, as needed.

Also, correct the seasonings, adding more salt and pepper as necessary. Fry the rest of the fritters, in batches, and transfer to paper towels to drain.

• Serve them hot or warm, accompanied with thick Greek yogurt, if you like. Also good at room temperature.

Note: Instead of zucchini, you could make horto-keftedes, fritters with blanched, drained and chopped mixed greens (spinach, chard, rocket etc.).

Continued on page 38

36

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Global foodie

Kreas me Aginares Avgolemono (Braised veal with artichokes in egg and lemon sauce) Serves 4 This is the most elegant version of meat with vegetables. Depending on the season the dish can be made with celeriac or mixed greens (in the winter) or with zucchini or even green beans in the summer.

Ingredients: • ½ cup olive oil • 1½ pounds boneless veal shank (or pork loin) cut into 2-inch cubes • 2½ cups coarsely chopped scallions, white plus most of the green part • Salt • Ground black or white pepper, to taste • 1 cup white wine • 1½ cups chicken or beef stock • 8 medium artichokes, peeled and halved (see note) • 4tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice • 1½ cups chopped fresh dill Egg and lemon sauce (avgolemono) Ingredients: • 2 large eggs • 1tsp corn starch • 5tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, or a good pinch Aleppo or Maras pepper, to taste

cooked. With a slotted spoon transfer the

the dill, reserving a tablespoon for serving,

meat and artichokes to a platter. If the

and simmer for two minutes more to

sauce is too thin increase the heat to high

warm through. Serve sprinkling with dill

and boil for three to four minutes to

and pepper flakes, if you like.

Method:

broth.

reduce. You should have about 2-2½ cups

• In a large, deep skillet or a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat and

To make the Avgolemono sauce:

sauté the meat in batches, turning often,

• In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and

until golden on all sides. Add the onions,

two tablespoons of water. Dilute the corn

salt and sauté for two to three minutes

starch in the lemon juice and add to the

more, or until they are soft. Add the wine

egg mixture. Whisking constantly, pour

and as it boils, pour in the stock and bring

slowly with a ladle about half the boiling

to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and

sauce from the pan into the eggs. Slowly

simmer for 30 minutes.

return the egg mixture back to the pot

• Add the artichokes and a little water if

with the cooking liquid, whisking

needed – the liquid should almost cover

constantly, to prevent the eggs from

the meat and artichokes. Place an inverted

curdling.

heatproof plate over the meat and

• As the sauce thickens, add the meat and

artichokes to keep them submerged. Cook

artichokes to the pan, taste and adjust the

uncovered for 15-20 minutes, or until the

seasonings with lemon juice, salt and/or

artichokes are tender and the meat is fully

pepper or pepper flakes. Add the rest of

38

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Note: To prepare the artichokes, fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze the juice of two lemons into it (reserve the lemon halves). Snap off several layers of leaves from each artichoke, pulling them downward to break them off at the base. Rub the cut parts often with the lemon halves as you work, to prevent discoloration. Cut off the top of each artichoke and trim the broken parts of leaves around the stem with a sharp knife, again rubbing the cut surfaces with lemon. Halve the artichokes and remove the centre chokes with a knife or grapefruit spoon; drop each prepared artichoke into the bowl of lemon water. Drain just before adding to the pan.

Drinks update

Drink up ChOCOlatE DElIght

The nation’s favourite drinking chocolate has been crowned.

Mortimer Chocolate Company’s Pure Dark West African Chocolate Powder was named Britain’s best drinking chocolate.

Judges casting their votes at The Chocolate Festival, on London’s South Bank, described it as “a delicious hot drinking chocolate and so much more”. The producer’s West African chocolate delighted with its soothing mellowness and sultana and raisin top notes. The pure dark powder is made with 100 per cent chocolate containing 70 per cent cocoa solids.

Thrilled founder, Adrian Smith, said: “It’s a great honour and amazing recognition of all our hard work. We’re a small family business, making our own chocolate here in the UK, using high quality cocoa mass from different origins to make delicious chocolate drinks. We have a unique secret process to make the chocolate into a powder so that it dissolves easily and none of the fantastic flavour is lost. We are so encouraged by all the positive feedback we have been receiving from consumers.”

40

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

Botanical Brewers rock The record label that issued Lady Gaga’s first albums has teamed up with British botanical brewer Fentimans for a new drink.

Fentimans is famous for its drinks and is now working with Cherrytree Records to create the Fentimans Cherrytree Cola, which will be available on its forthcoming European tour. The Cherrytree Cola bottle has been used in promotional material for the bands included in the Cherrytree Records sell-out 2012 European tour, including Ellie Goulding and The Far East Movement.

Cherrytree Records launched in 2005, and Lady Gaga’s multi-platinum The Fame and The Fame Monster albums were issued by Cherrytree Records.

DRINk IN Sloe motIoN

A family business from North Yorkshire is spreading its love of the British-grown sloe.

SLOEmotion, based in the Howardian Hills, makes a range of, award-winning sloe-based liqueurs, chocolates and chutneys using sloes that grow in the local hedgerows, supporting local farmers as they go.

The company is run by Jonathan Curtoys and his wife Claire, who established the business with their North Yorkshire farming neighbours in 2002. It came about because nearby Manor Farm was returning tracts of agricultural land to wildlife conservation. This meant planting protective grass and wildflower borders along hedgerows, and ceasing regular cutting of hedges to allow fruit to develop. Before long, large amounts of sloes began to fruit on the blackthorn bushes.

Today, the product range includes sloe gin, whisky, vodka, damson gin, and cherry brandy. The SLOE Gin product is made in the traditional way, with the fruit steeped in gin and sugar and left to mature. The high concentration of fruit to gin results in a sweet and fruity liqueur, with a dry finish from the gin.

Jonathan added: “Though drunk neat it certainly warms you on a winter’s day, I love mixing it with ginger beer, crushed ice and a twist of lime for a fabulous ‘pink ginger’ during the summer months.”

TraDITIONal TwIST Belvoir Fruit Farms has announced the creation of five traditional British classics with a modern twist.

Belvoir, famed for being the maker of the ‘original’ elderflower cordial, is tying in the new drinks with the many British events taking place this year, including the London Olympics and the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.

Like all Belvoir products, the new additions are made using the freshest ingredients with no artificial flavours, sweeteners, colours or preservatives and while sensational on their own, also make

great mixers or cocktail ingredients too.

Flavours include Belvoir Lemonade with a hint of orange blossom to give an extra zing, Belvoir Raspberry & Lemon Cordial, and Belvoir Ginger Beer.

Belvoir boss, Pev Manners, said: “2012 is an exciting year for the country, despite all the economic doom and gloom. We are very excited by the five new products – we’re confident that while being quite traditional, classic British flavours they offer the consumer a modern twist that makes them truly delicious and will prove to be real winners!”

The drink of love?

Known as the oldest alcoholic drink in the world, Traditional Mead has arrived at a UK deli.

Liquid deli Demijohn now stocks the rich, sweet drink, which was traditionally consumed at weddings and was believed to be the source of the word ‘honeymoon’.

Made in Somerset from honey and water, it is perfect warmed as a mulled drink in winter, or if the weather’s warm serve it chilled from the fridge on the rocks.

CheRRy Good CoCktaIl

Indulge yourself with this sumptuous cocktail from the people at Cherrygood. the Cherrygood ‘Red Carpet’ cocktail recipe, from the cherry juice specialists, contains a handful of plump raspberries, fresh lemon juice, Cherrygood and a splash of vodka and was commissioned by elton John for his famous Grey Goose Winter Ball in honour of the legendary shoe designer, Christian louboutin.

Ingredients: • Handful of fresh French raspberries • 15ml fresh lemon juice • Splash of Himalayan goji berry liquour • Teaspoon freshly grated ginger • 70ml measure of Cherrygood • 35ml measure of Grey Goose Le Citron • Crushed ice Method: Combine all the ingredients. Don’t shake the cocktail mixer – the ice will dilute it.

Finish with a sprinkle of pepper and garnish with a cherry.

SPRING 2012 FINE FOODIES

41

Fine Foodie hero

G

o into a pub

explained, adding: “I had spent

15 years ago

about 10 years living in Sicily

and your

and that’s where I fell in love

choice of soft

with lemons and vanilla, and

drink was

that formed the base of my

pretty limited to lemonade,

drinks, and then I build around

cola, and perhaps a lime and

those flavours.”

soda.

At the time of the company

And so Gabriel David hit

launching, there were few

upon something when he

others making similar premium

created Luscombe Organic

drinks, and Luscombe was

Drinks, making hand-made,

actually the first to introduce

high quality and really rather

organic lemonade to the UK.

tasty soft beverages. Whether

He said: “I had no idea it

it’s the sharp kick of the

would be so popular but I

Raspberry Lemonade, the

think we launched at the right

refreshing Elderflower, or the

time. We didn’t make the

warming Hot Ginger Beer,

wave, but we caught it and

there’s nothing processed

went with it. And long may it

about these drinks.

go on, people wanting quality

Today, Luscombe drinks are all certified organic, except for the Elderflower variety as they

Gabriel David

soft drinks.”

Quality, rather than price, remains Luscombe’s ethos, and

Fine Foodies celebrates those making great food and drinks. We talk to Gabriel David of Luscombe Organic Drinks.

Gabriel says they will not create

ingredients, without

often come with sediment,

And it was at this time that

work on the recipes to ensure

concentrates, additives,

evidence of their authentic,

Gabriel felt there was a gap in

we are always offering the best

preservatives, colourants,

under-processed nature.

the drinks market he could tap

quality,” he says. “We want to

into.

be able to make the best drinks

use wild elderflowers, which means they cannot be called organic. In addition to being organic, Luscombe drinks are made from quality fresh

flavourings, acidity regulators,

“We were never going to

a new drink on the back of a fad. Instead, he would rather hone what they already do.

“Even now we continue to

artificial sweeteners, animal by-

compete on price, it had to be

products, GMOs and all those

about quality,” Gabriel

– even as a teenager living in

continue to evolve our recipes.

other nasties found in many

explained. “We started out

the countryside, you can’t get

Rather than spending a lot of

conventional drinks.

doing it the right way, with the

anywhere without driving so I

time of new products we stick

best ingredients, so we didn’t

was never a drinker because I

to what we know and how to

made in Devon, within the

have to add in these chemicals.

had to drive everywhere to do

make it better.”

historic setting of the

I set out to prove myself on

anything. And I saw that

Domesday farm. All hand-

quality, not price.”

decent soft drinks were

into where you can buy the

frustratingly unavailable.”

products. For one, you will not

All Luscombe products are

made in batches, they may

Founding Luscombe was not Gabriel’s first experience of

The quality aspect also goes

find them in the supermarkets.

experiences to good use,

from a farming family, cider

drawing on food influences he

market and you won’t get the

making was commonplace.

had picked up during times

quality in volume in

spent abroad to create the

supermarkets. There, it

drink recipes.

becomes about bottom line

cider was made, and we were no exception, but over time

FINE FOODIES SPRING 2012

And so he put his earlier

people want to drink and we

drinks manufacture. Hailing

“On every farm in Devon,

42

“I was not really into alcohol

“I have been brought up

“Our products are not mass

rather than quality,” Gabriel

these cider farms whittled

with food, and I had cultural

explained, adding: “If you grow

away,” he explained. “Around

diversity having lived in

too quickly you can end up

1997 we were looking to wind

countries where there is much

losing what your reason was in

up the cider making.”

more interest in food,” he

the first place.” FF