| Damascus Nights | The City Nights In The Modern History
The Berlage Sessions | Building Nights |
Tarik Alboustani - student no.4627709 TU Delft | Faculty of Architecture and the Built Environment The Berlage Center for Advance Studies in Architecture and Urban Design ARB206 The Berlage Sessions 2016/2017 Q3-Q4 Course teachers: Salomon Frausto Jubitar Temple Damascus at night (Entrance of Hamidiyeh Souk) c 2008 photo by: Fadi Lutfi
Table of contents 1. Introduction
page
6
2. Damascus Tramway
page
8
3. History of Light in Damascus
page
10
4. Damascus Nights 1910-1950s
page
14
5. Nocturnal Activity Before The Conflict
page
16
6. The City nights during the war
page
18
7. The Suburb nights during the war
page
22
8.Collaborators and References
page
27
‘‘Many of life’s failures are people who did not realize how close they were to success when they gave up.’’ Thomas Edison Entrance Grand Mosque of Damascus C 2008 Source UNESCO photo by Maria Gropa
1. Introduction
Founded in the 3rd Millennium B.C. Damascus was an important cultural and commercial centre by its geographical position at the orient and the occident crossroads between Africa and Asia. The old city of Damascus is considered to be among the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. Damascus was inhabited as early as 8,000 to 10,000 BC. The city exhibits extraordinary evidence of the civilizations which created it - Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Islamic. Despite Islam’s prevailing influence, traces of earlier cultures, particularly the Roman and Byzantine, continue to be seen in the city. Today’s city is based on a Roman plan and maintains the aspect and the orientation of the Greek city, in that all its streets are oriented north-south or east-west and is a key example of urban planning. (WHS; UNESCO website).
one of the hottest issues in modern history. From losing safety, security, and internal migration in the city that face extraordinary challenges never experienced in its long history. This study aims to highlight the city nights during and before the Syrian conflict. The city night’s culture is vibrant, and no one thinks about that as an unusual situation. However, a major effect on people’s life activity during the night and significant changes occurred after the war came over in 2011.
The city has been living intensive international conflict and civil war with a complicated situation considered 6
Ummayid Sword Statue photo By Author c2009
King Faisal Street
Old City of Damascus (source World Heritage Website WHS UNESCO)
7
2. Damascus Tramway
Damscus Tramway line (by Emad AlArmashi)
Tram line
In 1891, the Damascus Tramway Company and the Damascus-Hauran (southern region of Syria) line Established, with a capital of 4 million Swiss francs.
Al-Zahrawi
The company was named the Ottoman Economic Railroad Company for Beirut Damascus - Hauran in Syria. The Ottoman Sultanate granted this company also the concession of lighting city of Damascus. The company completed the extension of the lines in February 1907 AD. The ministry of works (Naffah) in the Ottoman empire and Mutaran establish both the Tramway in Damascus and the famous Hijaz (Western part of the Arabian peninsula)line railway connecting Istanbul to Makkah. The urban extension in the neighbourhood of Al-Amara to the east, the expansion of the Bab Touma neighbourhood outside the wall both had a significant impact on the development of King Faisal Street. 8
To City of Duma
Al-Zinabiah Al Qasaa King Faisal Street
Barada River King Faisal Street
Al-Amara Bab Touma
Marjeh Square
It was a modest chain of markets, neighbourhoods, and avenues known from the Marja Square to the castle and later connected by tram buses.
The picture above shows French-made tram buses line pass through King Faisal Street in the neighbourhood of Al-Amara next to AlMoalaak Mosque
from the west to the east of King Faisal Street, where daily commercial activity and remain until today in the same area. The trip was across the eastern Gouta (Damascus Suburb), leaving Damascus city’s urbanisation and ending at the Grand Mosque of Duma in the market. (Al-Armshi; Damascus Tramway) Tram way stayed in serves until 1960 until the public buses started and took over.
Al-Qasaa Stop c 1955 Source Emad Al Armashi; Damascus Tramway
9
3. History of Light in Damascus Before electricity lighted houses and streets with oil lamps, lamps, and kerosene lanterns, the municipality illuminated the city’s highways and main squares, employing people to fill lamps with oil at night (called al-Domari). The people used to walk through the avenues and streets in the night, carrying their lanterns in their hands, often made up of cotton tweezers and oil. They used to call them “Siraj” and put them in a glass cage not to be cut off. Called “Mashkat”, where the lamp is placed to illuminate the house’s courtyard, it is placed on a wooden shelf or the socalled “Kuttabiya” to light the room. The women were preparing the lamp since the morning’s preparation for the night, inspecting its oil and the wick. These lamps have different types from 1,2,3, and the brightest one is called “Lux 5”. It was a source of pride for those who own the “Lux 5” sign of being from a wealthy family. Some shops lend “LUX” 10
lamps on occasions such as weddings, holidays, and religious ceremonies. On the 11th of December 1906, an agreement between the Municipality of Damascus government and the Ottoman Company (same tramway company) to illuminate the city of Damascus. Grand Mosque of Damascus (Umayyad Mosque) was the first building to be lighted in the town in April 1907 that came after six years of finishing its major renovation from the great fire that comes over the whole mosque. It started in the Grand mosque as the people gather and meet in prayer times and festivals, especially during Ramadan. The electricity had arrived in Damascus before Los Angels state via a Belgium company that established its head office in the middle of the city. It becomes later the main headquarter for the Electrical Corporation of Damascus city. In 1974 the Ministry of Electricity was created.
When the electricity arrived, A few people have electricity in their homes. It was only affordable for rich people, considered in public as a source of happiness and enjoyment in life. Electricity spread in most of the houses, after which the streets, venues of the city were illuminated. People preferred to sit in a cafe that had electricity.
Marja Square c 1920s source Emad Al Armashi; photographer :unknown
11
The picture on the left shows the Marjeh Square (The main square in Damascus at the Center). It includes the Damascus AlMedina memorial (Established in honour of the Telegraph line built between Damascus and Deraa City in the south and establishing AlHijaz railway from Damascus to Al-Medina)monument and the Municipality House building, which is adjacent to the National Hospital Pharmacy building. The picture dates back to the 1920s.
Al-Marjeh square c 1953 Source Emad Al Armashi; Damascus Tramway
12
Al-Hijaz Station in Damascus (now only a museum) decorated by light C 2016 photo: Sara Morheg
13
4. Damascus Nights 1910-1930s The Night culture in Damascus flourished after the electricity arrives. Religious festivals such as Ramadan and Eid are all included nocturnal activity during the nighttime as part of their rituals. In Ramadan, the people gather in the mosque for night prayer and morning prayer, go out after the sunset as the day starts, and it is less exhausting to spend the time out than in the daytime, specifically in summer. The Eid in Damascus as described by Ali Altintawi in that period: The ceremony starts on when 27th of Ramadan approaching. The people gathered in the grand mosque to sing poems and Darwish dancing ( a Sufi whirling dance where the dancer wore white cloth-like cones). All minarets (mosques towers) were lighted and Musahrati ( a person who walks through the neighbourhoods before dawn beating his drum to wake up people). Although not well-structured, the sellers sing a spontaneous poem, expressing people 14
happiness at that time of Eid coming. These songs from shops were attracting people to shopping. These songs were about Eid and farewelling Ramadan. There were many vendors (Bastah) spread in the avenues through the city. Each has its song, and every day the Eid becomes closer in time, the songs are changed. These ‘’Basta’’ or vendors was made of wooden decks covered by green and red curtains, mostly decorated and has bells. They sell sweet and children toys or small theatre‘’ KaraKuzati’’ were considered as cinema-like nowadays. The stories were invented every time and critic the government policies or bad habits in society. When Eid came, the people knew that by hearing the cannons fire sounds several times. Everyone knows Eid is tomorrow celebrated everywhere in the city, inside their homes in the courtyard (Iwan). No one Sleeps on Eid nights in Damascus. The markets were crowded with buyers
of sweets, clothes (these clothes were coloured in Shiny colours like spring). (Al-Tantawi,1987; Damascus images of beauty and through the struggle)
Damascus C 1920s Source (Al-Tantawi,1987; Damascus images of beauty and through the struggle)
Damascus Market C 1920s Source (Al-Tantawi,1987; Damascus images of beauty and through the struggle)
15
5.Nocturnal Activity before the Conflict The city activity is mainly mixed. The nightlife in the city is very vibrant, with both youth and family-oriented activities. This type of night-time includes other activities such as business meetings and shopping, dining out or spending time in the cafe, and some city bars. It is a combination of western and eastern 24 hours culture. Although attending the bars and clubs is not shared and mostly not common in society, it is still legal and not prohibited by law in some areas in the old city and suburbs where people can socialize.
Red Bar Café is located in Al-Qaymariya area in Old Damascus Old City. Source www.lovedamascus.com
The people tend to go out throughout the day. The night the daily and night activity is quite similar in the city. All city avenues are running until late in the evening on regular days and 24 hours on some occasions such as Ramadan, Al-Qader night, and Christmas.
Damascus Traditional Cafe C 2008 ; Photo by: Fadi Lutfi
16
The City was enjoying a different atmosphere depending on the area and district you may visit. Every part celebrates various festivals and ceremonies. Historically the City was the home of many civilizations and religious beliefs. Most of the city districts are multimixed functional; most shops are small-size and busy most of the day and night, creating a sense of safety. Most of the city venue is lighted with orange colour (sodium vapour light). Most landmarks such as mosques, churches and statues are decorated with light to stand out in the night.
Christmas in Damascus people decorate their homes with lights C2005 ; Photo by: Lina Arabi.
Dining out was a common form of urban lifestyle because of the availability of inexpensive dining options. Shopping at night is another essential part of a contemporary urban lifestyle in the City. Many shops open until midnight and 24 hours on special occasions and summertime for tourists. Shopping for fruits and vegetables at the Souq Bab As-Srijai market just outside of the Old City. ; photo by KETAN GAJRIA
17
6.The City Nights during the War In 2011 conflict in Syria, primarily between the government with its allies and protesters opposing the government as part of a broader wave of Arab Spring protests turn over time to various forces, grew out and escalated into an armed conflict. The War is being fought by several factions and countries, deteriorating the economy, security, and safety in all Syrian cities. Life in the city change considerably, especially in the suburb, and as a consequence, the people tend to stay home as the night was danger time to go out. This dramatic change in night culture makes the city night less active, turning the crowded night into an empty one and risk people life’s through the day. Some people would protest in the night in the early months of the conflict as they try to hide their identity and make it easier for them to escape any dangerous threat caused by the progovernment supporters. This case was 18
at an earlier time, and later, the protest would happen through the daytime. Some of these peaceful demonstrations turn into armed forces resulting from bloodshed and subsequently changing the night in the city to a battlefield. Through the War, the city nights were affected by various actions, explosions, and street fights. However, the people would remain to have their habits on special occasions like Ramadan, for example, and go out in the night ignoring the danger. Yet, it becomes a part of challenging the situation and the lack of safety at night as they are tired of War, trying to live everyday life, in turn, they would go out and socialize at night tend to make the same habits before War.
Al-Midan
in
Damascus
photo by Nada AlKhatyyb
sweets
market
during
Ramadan,
2017
Recently the use of lights becomes a part of the government policy to promote security and safety (although the danger level increase from one time to another) for the people and attract expatriates and Syrian who flew the city because of the War. The city celebrates the light more than ever before but not in real meaning (it is less lighted). The nightlife in Damascus is an integral part of Urban life in the city. Nevertheless, all this is affected by the War since its start. Life is quite different from the past. The electricity cut becomes part of daily routine in the city exceeding 18 hours in some areas, and most of Damascus Suburb is damaged or destroyed. The people flew their homes in the city, or they left the country, and some are becoming a refugee somewhere. Although people struggle to have an everyday life in the night and daytime, the consequences of the conflict impact people’s lifestyles and habits. On regular days people would close earlier, and electricity cut may affect the opening hours for the shop in the city.
Clebration of Eid Alfater Night Dmascus,2017 ; photo by:Sara Morhej
Clebration Light in Ramadan Grand mosque of Damascus,2017 ; photo by: Raja Manush
2011
2015
The Light intensity differences before the Syrian war start and 2015; Source: Huffington Post
19
20 Damascus 2020 (light festival), C 2017 photo source:Unknown
Markets at Ramadan Damascus C 2017 photo by: Sara Morhej
21 Damascus Sweet Shops in, Ramadan, night Damascus C 2017 photo by: Nada Alkahteeb
7.The Suburb Nights during the War The suburb of the city of Damascus is living a very different night-life surrounded by fear and blockade. The city and villages (mostly under opposition control) live in a water shortage, food and electrical power. They considered the battlefield of the war under fire every day. It’s hardly accessible areas that after crossing many checkpoints, no one from the city which is not living there would think about passing these areas and most of the time the way to there is blocked. The urban city nights has been changed totally since the war starts. While Damascus (the areas controlled by the government) is enjoying some electricity during the day, the suburbs sinking in darkness as the infrastructure has been destroyed in the war. People use car batteries and fuel generators brought by smugglers or even landfill generators to get electricity. Everyone becomes busy when electricity came. A household would receive a maximum of 1 hour per day of electricity (or sometimes without any electricity during the day). 22
Each house could use the washcloth or watch television (televisions with 12volts run by batteries). The people still miss the old nights, these nights they had before similar to the city. On the war nights, they tend to gather drinking tea in the moonlight as it is hazardous to switch on any light where they could be at risk of fire by reconnaissance planes, and if the aircraft sound is heard, all lights will be switched off immediately. The nights sink in deep darkness, silence, and anyone can hear the sound of people chatting from a distance. There are very few lights that will be turned-on on some occasions, a small strip of LED for energy saving, Eid time or Ramadan. People can see the city lights in the Damascus centre from their homes and feel the darkness at the exact moment in contradiction with the history when the artist was painting AlMuhagreen (Immigrant ) district darker on the mountain Qasioun.
Sunset in the Suburb C 2016 photo by: Yassen Al-Bushy
23 View of Damascus from the Suburb C 2017 photo by: Yassen Al-Bushy
24 View of Damascus from the Suburb, New year Eve C 2017photo by: Yassen Al-Bushy
Eid celebration Damascus Suburb Erbeen C 2016 photo by: Yassen Al-Bushy
25 Ramadan, Al-Qader night prayer Damascus Suburb Erbeen C 2017 photo by: Yassen Al-Bushy
Famous Nufarah Café is located in Al-Qaymariya area in Old Damascus Old City ByArtist: Hishm Khyyat,2005 : photo by: Authour
26
Collaborators Special thanks for the information and photos provided by : Yassen Al-Bushy: studied at Damascus University; in his last year, he had to drop out of the study due to the war in Syria. Later worked as a reporter for Thomson Reuters, documenting life in Syria Besides, he works for news agencies he works on providing alternative energy solutions for his city (Erbeen)during the blockade. Currently, he works assistant architect in Turkey. Sara Morheg: Architect, educated at Damascus University, graduated with excellence in 2013. Currently, she is teaching—assistant in a Design studio at the University of Damascus and continuing her Master in Architectural Design. Nada Alkhateeb: architect, educated at Damascus University, is currently a Teaching Assistant at Damascus university.
References - Shihabi Qutaiba (1990) Damascus, Syria Damascus history and photos; Al-Nouri Publisher. - Al - Tantawi Ali (1987), Jeddah, Saudi Arbia, Damascus images of beauty and through the struggle; Dar Al-Manarh. - Al-Armashi Emad (2003) Abu Dabi, UAE, Damscus Tramway; Publisher Unknown. -Site Fustat / Damascus Sham city .. Photos and memories of the collection of images / Koutaiba Shihabi, six Faisal, Abdul Qadir long http://www.fustat.com/dimashq/pic.shtml -ٍSite Fadi Lutfi blog http://blogs.warwick.ac.uk/flutfi/gallery/damascus/?thumbnailSize=Small -Love Damscus site http://www.lovedamascus.com/en -Site photographer Ketan Gajria http://www.ketangajria.com -Photos French photographer Felix group Bonfelic Www.charles Nes Photography.comFELIX BONFILS, 100 PHOTOGRAPHS: : Egypt, : Reputation : Palestine, Jerusalem, Lebanon El , And : Syria. 1867-1870. 27
2017
