PURAVIDAPURAVIDAPURAVIDA




PuraVidaliterallymeans “purelife”,butinCostaRica it’sawayoflife.
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It’ssohardtosayGoodBye! (ANewBond)
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Theadventurebegins.
SanJose|2
UnTípicoTico|3
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LaCostadePájaros (Ifwearelucky...)
MariposasdelGolfo|7
BellbirdBiological Corridor|8
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TheMonteverdeCloudForest (Aren’tweallepiphytes?)
MonteverdeInstitute|11
MonteverdeFriendsSchool|14
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WaterQualityMonitoring (Whereareweintheworldof sustainability,andhowarewe meetingtheneedsofthe future?)
ValleEscondido|16
SunsetsofLaCalandria|19
BatMist-Netting|20
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Farm-to-TableCookingClass (“TheMarriage”)
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ArenalObservatoryLodge (Alittlerainisn’tgoingtostopus!)
TabacónHotSprings|26
We couldn’t have asked for a better way to kick off the New Year! We met at Tatnall at 2:50 in the morning, loaded the school van with our luggage, and headed to Newark Airport, a 2-hour drive. (A huge shoutout to Mr. Simmons and Mrs. Ciconte who drove us.) The airport was bustling despite the early hour, but lines moved fairly quickly, and we got to our gate with 90 minutes to spare. Once on the plane, most of us made up for the lack of sleep the night before, but even the 5-hour flight seemed to go quickly. Before we knew it, we were in Costa Rica. We left Wilmington at a frigid 30°F with snow in the forecast and arrived at the San Jose Airport to a humid 80°F.
AFTER: WAITING FOR OUR RIDE AT THE SAN JOSE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT AFTER GOING THROUGH CUSTOMS IN COSTA RICA.
We stopped for lunch at a traditional local restaurant in Alajuela called La Casona del Maíz. Our local tour guide for the week and travel coordinator, Ignacio Loria (aka Nacho), was our translator and go-to person for recommendations.
First, we ordered frescas naturales (natural fruit juice), the freshest we had ever tasted; some had pineapple, strawberry, or guanábana. A couple of us ordered a traditional Costa Rican dish called “Chifrijo.” It is a combination of rice and beans, pico de gallo, and fried pork belly (chicharrón) with avocado slices on top. Las delicias fueron muy ricas!
We finally arrived in the city of San Jose, where we stayed for one night at the Hotel Aranjuez. It was an eclectic hotel that seemed to have connected five or so homes together with a central open-air courtyard. From the courtyard, various hallways led to numbered rooms with no logical order.
Before dinner, we all met for an orientation and overview of our week’s agenda led by Nacho, our fearless and knowledgeable leader. We couldn’t have asked for a better guide or a kinder or more enthusiastic human being. Nacho is the epitome of “Pura Vida,” Costa Rica’s motto. Literally, it means “pure life” but refers to the laidback, happy-go-lucky attitude of the Costa Rican people (aka Ticos) and their viewpoint of living life to the fullest. Their optimism, easy-going attitude, and tranquility are something we could get used to.
After placing our votes on Nacho’s dining recommendations, we landed on La 45, a modern restaurant serving burgers, chicken fingers, nachos, and pizza. In our first 24 hours abroad, subconsciously, this was our way of reconnecting with home.
The food hit the spot, and we enjoyed the restaurant’s incredibly cool vibe. It was pure coincidence that the proprietor of La 45, a native Costa Rican, had a 2nd home in Doylestown, Pennsylvania.
While we could feel the anticipation among us for what the week had in store, we were thoroughly exhausted and couldn’t wait to close our eyes for the night. Buenas noches y hasta mañana!
In preparation for this trip, our host institute provided us with an in-depth 60-page handbook with a ton of useful information. As I perused its table of contents, I noticed a subchapter titled “Crocodiles.” I read it thoroughly and then decided to look into other local insects and creepy crawlies. When we began meeting monthly as a group starting in October to learn more about the trip from Mr. Hertzler,
and headed west to the Costa de Pájaros. Over the three-hour bus ride, we saw the varied countryside, agriculture, unpaved or poorly paved roads, and many modest, if not poor, communities.
he would open the floor to questions before we adjourned. I wasn’t sure if it was a good idea to mention my fears, ahem... curiosities in the group meeting as I didn’t want to deter any of the students from going on the trip. Later on, I asked Mr. Hertzler more about the crocodiles, scorpions, snakes, and tarantulas in particular and what the likelihood was that we would run into any. According to Mr. Hertzler, Scorpions seemed to be a sure thing, but seeing the other animals were slim to none. Over and over again, he would use the phrase, “If we are lucky, we could see a ...” At first, I thought he was just trying to placate me, but he seemed genuinely sincere and was speaking from his prior experience living in the country. So, I put this out of my mind until we arrived in Costa Rica.
After getting a good night’s sleep and having our first of many delicious breakfasts in Costa Rica, we loaded our things back onto the bus
Once there, we embarked on a boat tour through the Área de Pesca Responsable (sustainable fishery) and mangroves in Nicoya Bay. Captain Ezekiel shared his community’s story and told us about the changes he saw over time. He told us that the community had started with fishing by hand and evolved with the influence of a foreigner to fishing with nets. This fishing practice led to massive decreases in fish population and, ultimately, fishery collapse. He used his life story to explain the area’s shift
in fishing practices to preserve the natural habitat for the seafood that was the source of their livelihood, ensure equitable fishing for all permitted fishermen (and women), and implement policies that allow for the replenishment of their natural resources. He even took us to islands to show how the large bird communities also reaped the benefits of the growing fish populations. We also climbed to the top of one of the islands that had been reforested by the Monteverde Institute with native trees.
He then showed us a mangrove forest, and we were in awe of the root mesh that held the land together and the immense amount of wildlife in and around it. It was easy to
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appreciate the habitat it created and the positive effect it would have on stopping erosion. We saw herons, pelicans, flycatchers, kingfishers, crabs, and even a large eagle. It wasn’t long before someone asked, “Are there any crocodiles here?” Immediately, Ezekiel pointed and shouted, “Alla hay un crocodillo!” It wasn’t difficult to understand what he was saying. There, just 20 feet away, sitting on the shore, was a crocodile. We watched it slowly wade into the water. This was not a common sight. We had gotten lucky.
After we were safely back on land, we got lunch at “Mariposas del Golfo.” We were served fresh fried fish with rice and beans. The food was delicious, and nothing was left on our plates. This was more than just a restaurant; it was a women's association dedicated to the mission of empowering women and preserving the natural resources in the area. It was an awe-inspiring presentation that touched on the prevailing machismo and domestic violence surrounding the community. Our presenter, Doña Ester Ledezma, described her evolution from a timid, selfconscious individual to one who leads an international organization.
We then traveled 2 hours up the Tilarán mountains. At first, it was hard to see anything because the side of the road was covered in vegetation. The views opened up as we climbed higher into the mountains. This journey led us to beautiful sights, and it was all telling to see locals stopping on the side of the road as well to capture photos of the landscape. We could see for miles and miles in many directions. We later learned that the area we were traveling through on our way to Monteverde was the Bellbird Biological Corridor.
Later this evening, we viewed our first sunset from Hotel Belmar, and we were able to hear some live music as an extra treat. It was the tip of the iceberg, for while the rain had been coming down and the clouds were blocking our view, they briefly
opened up, and we saw a glimpse of what was to come.
To close out the day, we arrived at “La Calandria,” a biological field station where we would sleep while visiting Monteverde. As we headed to our rooms for the night we noted something crawling on the ground. It almost looked like a crab and was about the size of the palm of your hand, but it was hairy... We couldn’t believe it; we had come across our first tarantula! Just another example of how our luck was going. We were excited for our next day.
Today we hiked for 4 hours, approximately 2.5 miles (between 4,662 feet and 5,900 feet in elevation), in the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve (Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde). Among the many things we learned today from our incredible tour guide, Ricardo Guindon, we heard a lot about epiphytes.
“An epiphyte is a plant or plant-like organism that grows on the surface of another plant and derives its moisture and nutrients from the air, rain, water (in marine environments) or from debris accumulating around it.” (Wikipedia) In other words, these plants/organisms depend on unique relationships with their host to survive. Even though this is only our third day exploring Costa Rica, we are hearing the subtle messages of the forest all around us. At the end of the day, Ava Simpers (11th grade) summed up
the lesson perfectly, “I mean, aren’t we all epiphytes? As humans, we need each other to grow. We are better when we work together.” Here we are in Costa Rica, learning what it is like to grow with one another and work together, and that by prioritizing the sustainability
of our community (people, places, and things), we will also be provided for in return. In addition to epiphytes, in the cloud forest, we saw howler monkeys, coatis, butterflies, a tarantula hawk wasp (a spider wasp that preys on tarantulas), agouti, and hummingbirds. (Our luck continued!)
“Meetingtheneedsofthepresentwithout compromisingtheabilityoffuture generationstomeettheirownneeds”
(UnitedNations,1987)
At the Monteverde Institute, our host organization, they believe that sustainability is at the intersection of the entire country's environmental, social, and economic interests, and conservation initiatives/solutions must be viable, bearable, and equitable. This entails “protecting the environment and restoring ecosystems; supporting social improvement and protecting cultural identity; and allowing businesses and local economies to operate profitably in the present and into the future.” (www.monteverde-institute.org)
Today’s MVI speaker, Alexandra Paniagua, introduced us to the institute's history. Since the early
40s, land-use changes and deforestation in Costa Rica have become a huge drain on the country’s natural resources. Primarily, deforestation occurred to provide open space to create cattle pastures and farming. Between 1960-1970, Costa Rica was the largest producer of beef in Central America (96% of the production being exported to the U.S.) and was losing ~4% of its forest every year. (Fonafifo) Leading conservation in Monteverde at this time were environmentalists, Dr. George Powell, Eladio Cruz Leiton, and Wilford Guindon.
Powell and Guindon created the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve together in 1972 to protect the remaining forest, rescuing natural habitats and preventing more species (both flora and fauna) from becoming extinct. Fun Fact: Wilford (aka Wolf) was the father of our cloud forest tour guide, Ricardo.
Another benefit to preserving the cloud forest was tourism, attracting visitors
through scientific, ecological, and adventure-based interests, which economically counterbalanced the reduction in cattle farming. As a result,
within 15 years, Monteverde saw tourism skyrocket from 471 visitors a year to 20,000 (more than double its population). This tourism boom began to have its own negative environmental effects on the community, so a gentleman by the name of John Trostle founded the Monteverde Institute to engage the entire community in conservation efforts. John Trostle believed that “while tourism cannot be controlled, it is sometimes possible to guide components of it in creative, educational ways...and by doing so, develop new jobs and careers for residents as well as create educational and cultural activities for the zone.”
Around the same time MVI was created, the rest of the country continued to experience one of the highest deforestation rates in all of Central America. In the early 1990s, Costa Rica’s leaders finally got on board to work with environmentalists on national conservation efforts (policies). (Fonafifo) Part of their plan was to provide incentives for citizens to participate in conservation.
The government policies specifically concerning deforestation (est. in 1997) addressed watershed protection, scenic beauty, carbon fixation/sequestration, and
biodiversity conservation. The incentive program paid private watershed landowners to protect upstream ecosystems by maintaining forest cover on their land for the benefit of downstream communities. This program was largely financed by a 3.5% tax on fuel. By 2004, 263,000 residents participated in the program (Enrique J. Lahmann, The World Conversation Union). As these policies worked to help the country transition from agriculture and cattle to a tourism-based economy, the forest cover steadily increased.
In 2016, Costa Rica was the first country in the world to sign a National Pact for the Fulfillment of the U.N.’s 2030 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Currently, 99% of their energy comes from renewable sources, including solar, wind, geothermal, and mostly from hydroelectric. Just like the U.S., parts of Costa Rica are more dedicated to this effort than others, but they are humble about this admonition. However, we can learn a lot from the innovations and commitments that Costa Rica has implemented, making it possible to effect positive and long-lasting change that will benefit the entire ecosystem. It gives us great hope and confidence that if a country the size of West Virginia can do this, so can we.
We completed our day at the Monteverde Friends School with a friendly game of fútbol with some of their upper school students. Prior to coming to Tatnall, Mr. Hertzler lived in Costa Rica and taught at this school. This visit was not only nostalgic for him, but it gave us an opportunity to learn about the Quaker philosophy.
The Quakers came to Costa Rica in the early 50s after the country abolished its army. As pacifists, the Quakers did not agree with the military drafts happening in the U.S. during the Korean War, so they migrated to CR to establish a community in a more peaceful environment.
Our “luck” became an ongoing joke throughout the week as we continued to see many of the animals that Mr. Hertzler confidently advised that we probably wouldn’t see. We lucked out at nearly every turn, except for seeing a sloth. As instructed by Nacho, we diligently checked our shoes for scorpions each time before putting them on, but, as luck would have it, we only crossed paths with one.
We started our day at the Monteverde Institute with a lecture from a water quality and biologist specialist named Luisa, who helped us understand how water is affected by the Monteverde community and how it impacts the rest of the watershed. For example, she explained that sediments from erosion can lead to a lack of oxygen as the turbid (unclear/cloudy) water can prohibit photosynthesis in the water. This lack of oxygen could be further compounded by the runoff of fertilizers and detergents from the community. She explained how we can examine the health of a stream by looking at physical, chemical, and biological factors and measuring them at different streams around the community. Luisa had us climb up into the mountain behind the institute to collect macroinvertebrates from a nearby stream as biological indicators for the health of the stream. If we found a majority of macroinvertebrates with a high tolerance for pollution, we could assert that the water quality is poor. On the other hand, if the macroinvertebrates we found had a low tolerance for pollution, then the water quality would be deemed good. We discovered that the stream we tested had very good water quality. Much of the data collected over the years has shown that the increase in tourism in Costa Rica has led to more water pollution which is evident by the analysis of the factors mentioned above.
We then had a presentation on the importance of community action and preservation from MVI’s Daniela Quesada. She explained the “Mi Ocotea” project and the role of this critically endangered avocado tree species (800 in the world) to the complex food web and human life it supports. She noted the many challenges facing this tree, but through community education and engagement, there is hope. The community has been able to make huge progress in protecting this species
and, ultimately, all the other services and animals it supports. Daniela highlighted that while 70% of these trees are currently on private land, every property owner has become an advocate for protecting these trees once they are educated about their importance.
We then saw sustainable development firsthand through the lens of permaculture at Valle Escondido Nature Reserve Hotel & Farm. Our guide, Pablo, took us on a journey of design and intention. He showed us how everything they did on the property was purposeful to reduce energy and increase the efficiency and productivity of the land while also maximizing the cultural experience. For example, he showed us how the grey water from showers and other non-organic waste sources was filtered by plants like banana
trees that used the waste the that the chemicals as nutrients to as to chemicals as nutrients to provide food, not only for the only provide restaurant but also for the local for the but local wildlife. Without this form of this form filtration, the polluted water filtration, the polluted water would be released into the would be released into the would be released into the watershed and have harmful have watershed have effects like those discussed discussed effects those earlier in the day with Luisa. earlier earlier in the day with Luisa. There are many more examples many There more examples Pablo shared of how Pablo of how permaculture increases the permaculture the vitality of the ecosystem while of ecosystem while considering the human considering the human considering human experience. experience.
Did you know that a coffee bean grows inside of a berry?
Valle Escondido produces its own microorganisms on-site for a dual purpose: they are served in the restaurant as a natural remedy to aid human digestion and also added to their septic tanks on the farm to break down waste products naturally, avoiding the need for harmful chemicals or annual pump-outs.
THE SUNSETS AT LA CALANDRIA STATION WERE NONE LIKE WE’D EVER SEEN BEFORE.
After such a busy day, we had some downtime to explore the town center of Santa Elena and returned to La Calandria for another beautiful sunset. But our day wasn’t quite over. After dinner, we met a remarkable bat biologist, Vino De Backer, who studied under expert Richard LaVal and was the protege of the original bat whisperer, Dr. Merlin Tuttle (Watch out for Vino in the upcoming Netflix documentary about bats and the life of Dr. Merlin Tuttle). Using a net in the dark of night, Vino and an assistant captured bats in the area behind where we were staying at La Calandria Field Station. He told us stories of how bats are wildly misunderstood and the vital roles they play as nature’s pest control,
curbing plagues, and assisting pollination. They are not the source of infections that we think they are. Vino explained the many obstacles bats face from human actions. Vino showed us the difference between insect and fruit bats and other anatomical features. He also ended by saying how small actions like creating more bat houses can have a major impact on the growth of bat communities. Vino was full of humor and knowledge and made learning about bats fun and exciting. He certainly converted some new bat lovers from this group.
WYATT HARPER, CLASS OF 2027, WITH BAT EXPERT VINO DE BACKER.
Each day feels like an encyclopedia of knowledge but makes us more connected to nature and community, leaving us eager to learn more.
It is often said that the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach. On our last day in Monteverde, we embarked on finding out exactly what that means through our next adventure: a cooking lesson.
We woke to a misty morning breakfast, very tired and sad to be leaving this magical place at La Calandria. When we arrived at the Monteverde Institute we were warmly greeted by three women, Karen Matarrita, Karla Rojas, and Elise. At Karen’s request, we all introduced ourselves, and then she proceeded to explain that we would be cooking lunch for a whole group of visitors at the institute... Our mouths slightly dropped questioning this venture, but without another thought, we rolled up our sleeves.
Karen told us that we would be making a Casado and explained its meaning. Traditionally, you could identify the single men by the basic lunch they would bring to work, like a simple sandwich. In contrast, the married men would bring a full spread of food (el Casado) that was prepared by their wives. Therefore, it was easy to pick out the married men by looking at their meals. Casado, in Spanish, means married.
We were broken into 6 different-sized groups each with a role to complete for the meal. This included making beans and rice, salad and dressing, maduros (fried sweet plantains), picadillo,
tortillas, chicken fajitas, natural fruit juice, and a caramelized baked cinnamon apple with chocolate chip ice cream for dessert. We have been fortunate to enjoy authentic homemade Costa Rican meals throughout the week and now we have explored Costa Rican culinary traditions and local ingredients and learned the art of Costa Rican cooking for ourselves. This transformative cooking class not only taught us that we could win over hearts by making and serving a delicious meal but also how we can form lasting bonds through shared experiences in the kitchen.
The Institute explained that one of the highlights of this activity in particular was to teach us about their ongoing efforts to create a farm-to-table kitchen. While still in the early stages, the Institute has begun sourcing a few key ingredients, such as fresh greens, directly from the garden. “This commitment to sustainability and local sourcing offers students a unique opportunity to see how the Institute is working toward incorporating more organic, homegrown ingredients into its culinary practices” (monteverde-institute.org).
One of our Tatnall students, Wyatt Harper ’27, shared how his family gardens and incorporates their harvest into their everyday meals. Working together with the Institute in this way has instilled in us a greater respect for sustainable food practices, mindful sourcing, and environmental responsibility, including the importance of composting food waste. This culinary exchange serves as a reminder of the importance of cultural understanding and sustainability, both of which play a significant role in shaping the future of food security.
The completed meal was phenomenal and many of us and the group we fed returned for seconds. With our bellies full, we said goodbye to Monteverde and traveled north into the Tilaran mountains to our next destination, Arenal.
POSING IN FRONT OF LAKE ARENAL
Alittlerainisn’tgoingto
We spent our next 2 nights at the Arenal Observatory Lodge. We had a full dinner and went to bed early. We slept very well, comforted by the steady lullaby of the rain and wind gusts outside. When we awoke, this overnight din had not subsided. In fact, the rain and wind seemed to pick up. Unable to view the volcano, we had breakfast and readied our plans for the day. We decided to go on a tour of the trails and would consider a tractor ride to a waterfall.
A little disheartened by no sight of the volcano and the fact that the rain had increased, we decided to push on with our plans. Christian, our tour guide for the trail, led us through the property, stopping to highlight key aspects of the biodiversity surrounding us. He mentioned Costa Rica had about 50 species of birds and that you could view around 42 of them from our current location. As he said this, he used a green laser to point out 5 or so different species flying around us as he spoke.
We continued forward and had walked about 30 feet when we heard a small crash and noticed a piece of a
bromeliad had just hit the ground not too far from us. We looked up and saw a capuchin monkey. It was ruffling through the epiphyte looking for food. Suddenly, the weather didn’t seem so bad.
We then came upon the observation tower and saw a few people ascending it. This was a rectangular tower supported by large cables anchored into the ground. In total the tower is 28 meters, or 92 feet high. This means at its highest point you are able to be slightly above the canopy and capable of viewing the surrounding area in all directions. While we did not climb it we were impressed by its presence.
Our next stop was the frog pond. This was a relatively small pond, only about 10 feet in diameter and it was swelling into the pathway due to the rain. The trail allowed us to go around it, and without hesitation, we did. Christian recognized our eagerness to have our first frog sighting and said he would give us 5 minutes to look for tree frogs, and then he would show us. He told us to look under the leaves. We slowly perused the foliage only to come up short. After going around twice, Nacho asked if there were any frogs. Christian slightly laughed and said, “I don’t think so.” Another person followed this statement up by saying,
“Really?” and Christian said, “No, I’ll show you them.” He went on to show us 5 different frogs that we all missed. It was unbelievable how well hidden the frogs were. Christian mentioned they were sleeping and were most active at night. Someone bumped one off the leaf and woke it up by accident, and we saw its bright red eyes open. Christian said that these were the infamous red-eyed tree frogs of Costa Rica.
We stopped after another 50 feet because Christian noted there was a family of spider monkeys huddled together at the top of the canopy. We continued another 100 feet and quickly came upon a third type of monkey, the howler monkey. The amount of life hidden in the forest was staggering.
As we came to the end of our small tour, we had the option of going back to the hotel to relax or continue on to the waterfall. Half of the group decided to continue, while the other half went back. We missed the tractor that was going to take us down to the waterfall, so we ran in the rain to make the most of our time. It only took us about 5 minutes to reach our destination, a raging waterfall. It was both beautiful and terrifying from the power of the flowing water.
Our final stop for the day was a trip to a luxury hotel called Tabacón Thermal Resort and Spa to sample the rejuvenating hot springs on the property. Our bus braved a small river to get there, but we were not disappointed. The property included a maze of springs, each with a different temperature and flow rate. This was followed by a 3-course meal with amazing desserts. It was the perfect way to conclude the soggy day.
As our time in Costa Rica came to a close, we reflected on the week’s experiences. It was a transformative journey that deepened our curiosity about the steps we can take toward a more sustainable future. We hope that the insights we gained will continue to inspire us to explore the intersection of social, economic, and environmental issues.
Our last whole day in Costa Rica was spent on the road, but we welcomed the chance to rest. If you have followed our journey this far, you know that our days were quite full, but so were our hearts and minds. There was so much to take in this week, and we had so much to be grateful for.
Our driver, Luis, was an absolute professional, navigating the narrow dirt roads of the countryside, at times traversing the flooded corridors, finding detours, and ultimately getting us to and fro quite safely. Our coordinator, Nacho, was a wealth of knowledge and inspired the adventurer in all of us. He brought great energy and humor to every day and quickly became a part of our family. While only half of us knew each other well going into this trip, we all got along superbly and truly enjoyed traveling with one another. It goes without saying that this whole experience fused a bond between us that will live on in perpetuity. There was a part of each of us that wanted to stay longer and continue the Pura Vida we had grown to love.