The Blue Train August 2012 by Brett Rothmann

www.bluetrainmag.co.za

Complimentary Guest Magazine

August 2012

Johannesburg Markets â&#x20AC;˘ Istanbul â&#x20AC;˘ Diving Aliwal Shoal

contents 20 www.bluetrainmag.co.za

Hanlie Kotze Letter from the Executive Manager

Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu Letter from the Editor

News Keeping You Informed

From The Mailbag Passenger Letters and Comments

EVENTS Dates To Diarise

BITS Need To Know

GREATER GOODS FOR THE GREATER GOOD Markets are Remaking Johannesburg

THE WIZARDS OF FINE WINE The Cape Winemakers Guild

AUTHENTIC, ECCENTRIC & AFROCENTRIC Cape Town’s Afropolitan Dining Scene

PUTTING PAWS AND CLAWS FIRST New Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre

THE SWEET SULTANS OF ISTANBUL Turkey’s Tempting Treats

The Blue Train

Complimentary Guest Magazine

August 2012

04 06 08

Johannesburg Markets • Istanbul • Diving Aliwal Shoal

09 10 12 16 28 20 24 28 30

THE ZING BEHIND ZINGARA

Richard Griffin

THE GREATEST SHOAL ON EARTH

Diving Aliwal Shoal

MR BLUE TRAIN

Robin Dowie

SCENES FROM THE BLUE TRAIN

Photo Essay

MAKI-NG LOVE

Chef Maki Makhi

FORGET Q, MISTER BOND – MEET M

The Mercedes-Benz M-Class

Destination Listings

Luxury Accommodation & Dining Guide

IN THE TRACKS OF A LEGEND

The History of The Blue Train

SUITE LAYOUT

Coach Info

August 2012

Letter from the Executive Manager Hanlie Kotze Warm Blue Train greetings! August is Women’s Month in South Africa and in celebration of this, please allow me to bask in the glow of femininity as I dedicate this column to all of the women of the world. Being a woman allows me to be a wife and a mother to my wonderful husband and my three gorgeous boys – my greatest treasures that I wouldn’t trade for anything! But as a woman I often wonder why our Heavenly Father created us to be the emotional, and at times irrational, ones of the human species. Why do we have to be so obsessed with managing the tiniest, and sometimes unnecessary, details of absolutely everything that happens in our lives and especially in the lives of our loved ones? We cry when they are heartbroken, we get upset when someone treats them badly; we even want to decide what they wear. We are always looking to “save” the world. In trying to get an apt explanation for this behaviour, I came across this passage from an unknown author, which I think best describes a woman: A true woman is not to be defined by style, culture, smell or personality. A true woman is a woman who wakes up every morning faced with millions of decisions and despite what the world is telling her she chooses to make the right one. She stands by what she believes, realises what she deserves and doesn’t settle for less. She is honest, and loyal, and 100 % faithful. She puts up with far more than she should. A true woman gets back up and fights for what she wants over and over again. Even though every time she’s tried before, she’s lost. She is understanding and patient, yet, abrasive and takes the bull by the horns. She gives respect, and expects it in return. A true woman is someone who when you look in her eyes, you can see your unborn children. You see, a true woman is not defined, by culture or size or any of that, she is defined by you. Your true woman is very different than anybody else’s. So, you see that we are meant to be whom and what we are. We are just women and our trueness and value is defined by ourselves and our loved ones – and I wouldn’t have it any other way. Let us remember this as we commemorate Women’s Day on 9th August and a very Happy Women’s Day to all the lovely ladies out there. Warm regards

Hanlie 6

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Letter from the Editor Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu What will your legacy be? What will you do to make your mark on the world and leave something behind when you are gone? With the Olympics in full swing this month, I cannot help thinking about all of the Olympic dreams that have come true over the past couple of weeks. Whether its winning a gold medal, breaking an Olympic record or simply being able to compete, the 2012 Olympic athletes are making memories that will no doubt be passed down to next generations, who will proudly be able to say: “My grandmother was an Olympic swimmer” or “My uncle won a gold medal in archery.” In this edition, we feature a profile on the late Robin Dowie, who played a pivotal role in the refurbishment of The Blue Train in the mid-1990s. Today, the train itself – complete with all the precise touches and added innovations he conceptualised – serves as Robin’s legacy, and it is, as I am sure you will agree, quite a legacy. But as well as The Blue Train, Robin left behind a legacy of kindness and support (as evidenced by the huge impact he made on his staff) as well as of a loving family who were lucky to have him as a part of it. This has made me think that we don’t all have to have anything as monumental as an Olympic medal or a beautiful luxury train to leave behind as our legacies – we just need to make a positive difference in the lives of those around us to make our mark on the world. A smile at a stranger, an unexpected act of kindness or charity, a visit to a friend going through a rough time – these may seem like small gestures in the grand scheme of things, but have the potential to have far-reaching and perhaps even unexpected and life-changing results. We cannot all be famous writers or movie stars, rich philanthropists or renowned artists, but we can all leave behind us a legacy of kindness, compassion and of care for our fellow man – and that is certainly not a bad way to be remembered either. Enjoy the read.

Noeleen

editor@bluetrainmag.co.za

THE BLUE TRAIN www.bluetrain.co.za Pretoria, Gauteng Tel: +27 12 334 8459 Fax: +27 12 334 8464 Cape Town Tel: +27 21 449 2672 Fax: +27 21 449 3338 United Kingdom Tel: +44 1403 243619 Fax: +44 1403 217558 Central Europe Tel: +44 2089 245126 Fax: +44 2089 245126 United States Tel: 001 305 864 4569 Fax: 001 305 675 7693 PUBLISHER Deidre Theron-Loots deidre@africanspiritmedia.co.za African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd PO Box 11273, Hatfield, 0028 Tel: +27 861 THE MAG (843 624) Fax: +27 88 012 346 2367 mail@africanspiritmedia.co.za

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EDITOR Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu editor@bluetrainmag.co.za MANAGING EDITOR Nicky Furniss nicky@tcbgroup.co.za ADVERTISING SALES Calvin van Vuuren +27 82 582 6873 calvin@tcbgroup.co.za Robyn Shillaw-Botha +27 83 629 8818 robyn@tcbpublishing Mlungisi Ngwenya +27 76 703 3433 mlungisi@tcbgroup.co.za Images © iStockphoto.com Cover Image © Nick van der Leek DESIGN & LAYOUT Joanne Mc Laren joanne@virtualdavinci.co.za Virtual Da Vinci Creative Room

PRINTING Business Print Centre, Pretoria CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Lesley Stones, Keith Bain, Lyndon Jaftha/mediaclubsouthafrica.com, Gary Hirson, Nicola Weir, Adam Cruise, Nicky Furniss, Nick van der Leek The Blue Train Magazine is published monthly by African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd. Opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd, The Blue Train or any of their clients. Information has been included in good faith by the publisher and is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. No responsibility can be accepted for errors and omissions. No material (articles or photographs) in this publication may be reproduced, in whole or in part, without specific written permission from the Publisher. Copyright © 2012. All copyright for material appearing in this magazine belongs to African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd and/or the individual contributors. All rights reserved.

news A Prestigious Hat Trick

In a major coup, The Blue Train showed once again why it should indeed be on every local and tourist’s itinerary when it was awarded the highly contest 2011 World’s Leading Luxury Train award at the World Travel Awards prize giving ceremony in Doha, Qatar recently. The Blue Train, which combines the luxury of the world’s leading hotels with the charm of train travel, outshone its competitors and claimed it’s well deserved first spot. It has built an incredible legacy and has now won this award for an impressive three consecutive years. Since their inception 17 years ago, The World Travel Awards – known as the “Oscars of the Travel Industry” – have become an important measure of excellence in the travel and tourism industry. These prestigious awards aim to stimulate innovation and creativity in the industry; to ensure that travellers receive exceptional value, and to acknowledge the organisations that contribute significantly to the industry.

The Blue Train is now a Heart Save Area Several Blue Train staff recently completed a Heart Saver CPR/AED Course and are now proficient in the necessary knowledge and practical skills to recognise life threatening cardio-pulmonary emergencies on board. This will enable them to respond swiftly and effectively in the event of an emergency. The staff will be aided by the Samaritan Pad 500P with CPR Advisor, which is a small, portable and easy to use device, which helps to restore a pulse in most heart attack victims. It also aids rescuers by giving precise visual and voice instructions on how to use the device and how to administer effective CPR.

Promoting Excellence The Blue Train Magazine was gratified to receive two awards recently at the 2011 SA Publication Forum Awards, which recognise excellence in the custom publishing field. Publications that receive a score of 75% or above in a particular category are awarded certificates of excellence, and The Blue Train Magazine received certificates of excellence for both Design and Writing. This serves as a wonderful vote of confidence for the magazine and its team who will continue to strive to improve the publication even further.

The Blue Train Wins Again The Blue Train has proven once more why it is considered the world’s best luxury train by walking away with yet another

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prestigious international award. At the Condé Nast 12th Annual Readers’ Travel Awards held in London in September 2010, The Blue Train was voted as the “Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Favourite Specialist Train”. The runner-up in the “Specialist Train” category was the Venice Simplon-Orient Express. Other nominations included The Ghan in Australia, the Palace on Wheels in India and The Royal Scotsman. The Blue Train was the only South African company to win one of the 27 categories – although South Africa did come in ninth in the “Favourite Holiday Destination” category. “To say that we are delighted with this award would be an understatement! To be nominated alone is such a great achievement, but to win your specific category is enormous! Credit must go to everyone associated with this brand – our employees, representatives, all our strategic partners and suppliers for their effortless passion and commitment to this “Blue Jewel”. Together, through hard work and dedication, we can achieve much more,” commented Hanlie Kotze, Executive Manager of The Blue Train. She added: “With a long-standing reputation of South African hospitality, The Blue Train symbolises the very core of luxury train travel. It is exquisitely crafted and appointed to achieve a degree of unequalled luxury to satisfy not only the senses of every guest, but to also touch their souls. This is the very essence of why we are known as a window to the soul of South Africa.”

Business “Unusual” Charters A special tailor-made, all-inclusive charter on The Blue Train is a wonderful way for guests to explore South Africa’s landscapes and landmarks, lasting from a few hours to several nights. From a VIP cocktail breakfast, lunch or dinner, to a business “unusual” conference, a product launch with a difference, a special wedding reception, staff incentives or even a birthday celebration, the experience is up to you. The Blue Train follows any route, provided the rail networks are compatible to its technology.

For Further Information For more information on The Blue Train’s exciting packages and to read the booking conditions for advance reservations, visit www.bluetrain.co.za or contact The Blue Train reservation office in Pretoria on +27 12 334 8459 or Cape Town on +27 21 449 2672. Email any general enquiries or feedback to info@bluetrain.co.za. n

From the Mail Bag

Passenger Letters & Comments

The most enjoyable journey and service experienced for my 75th birthday. It is a trip that will never be forgotten. Mrs PE Duffy, South Africa Justice (bar waiter) provided very friendly and helpful service. Angela, our butler, was excellent. This is the first luxury train we have ever travelled on and we are sure it will be the best. It was a great experience and has certainly lived up to our expectations. Mrs Wilezek, USA The meals were first class. Thank you for a most memorable experience. All the staff provided very friendly and helpful service. Mrs G Reddy, South Africa The food was superb. Our overnight experience was wonderful and the staff were exceptional. The scenery outside Cape Town was also lovely. I would highly recommend The Blue Train to other travellers. Mrs SE Moore, USA The employees on the train do their duties with much pride and honour. Mr LF Brockett, South Africa Riding on The Blue Train was a very special experience for our honeymoon. All the staff were fantastic. Ms HLC Clayton, UK The food was excellent and our butler, Choice, was very friendly. This was the best experience I have ever had and I look forward to doing it again. Miss NC Hoishawan, South Africa Albert, our butler, was excellent. This has been an experience of a lifetime and it far exceeded our expectations! Dr & Mrs JC Greeff, South Africa

Do you have a complaint or comment that you would like to share with us? Please fill in the guest questionnaire that is available in your suite or alternatively send an email to info@bluetrain.co.za. Please also feel free to send your photos from your trip on The Blue Train to the same address. Comments may be edited, shortened or translated from the original language.

August 2012

events The Thrill of the Unknown Following the success of the first Franschhoek Mystery Weekend earlier this year, couples once again have the opportunity to experience the best that the wine region has to offer. Visitors will be given a randomly-selected set of the finest experiences in the Franschhoek Wine Valley, to ensure that every couple’s experience will be unique. The package includes a two-night stay at one of the region’s four- or five-star establishments; a lunch or dinner experience; two breakfasts; tickets to The Screening Room at Le Quartier Français; a shopping experience; wine tasting at one of the award-winning wine farms; and one unknown mystery experience. The next Mystery Weekends will take place on 10th and 11th August and 14th and 15th September. For bookings and more information, contact +27 21 876 2861 or email office@franschhoek.org.za.

Taking it Slow The benefits of a slow, rural way of life are the focus at the Robertson Slow Lifestyle Festival taking place from 10th to 12th August in this little country town. Situated on scenic Route 62, just 90 minutes from Cape Town, Robertson’s winemaking community embodies honest, old-fashioned, rustic hospitality. Visitors can look forward to meeting local winemakers and their families, as well as savouring their organic and traditional food and wine. Other activities include fynbos drives, blending your own wine and learning how to make your own pasta. The festival culminates in the Robertson Valley Regional Food Market on the final day. More information is available at www.robertsonslow.com, and bookings can be made by contacting +27 23 626 3167, or by emailing manager@robertsonwinevalley.com.

Champions of the Tutus Sean Bovim’s Queen at the Ballet is heading to the Baxter Theatre in Cape Town this August. The talented Bovim Ballet uses the athleticism of rock ballet en-point to showcase the group’s talent. Orchestral versions of Queen’s 20 greatest hits are coupled with live vocals from some of South Africa’s best known singers, including Cito from Wonderboom. The ballet tells the story of Queen frontman Freddie Mercury, with performances ranging from tender pas de deux to exhilarating rock numbers. The show is also a fusion of dance and fashion, enhanced by collaborations with several international designers, including Craig Port and Malcolm Klûk & CGDT. Queen at the Ballet will run from 8th to 18th August. Tickets are available through Computicket or directly from the Baxter Theatre, at +27 21 685 7880.

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events The Return of the Songbird International mezzo-soprano star Katherine Jenkins will be returning to South Africa on tour in August. The singing sensation was phenomenally successful during her previous South African tour, selling out all of her shows. Following this extraordinary success, she will be performing three shows: two in Johannesburg at Carnival City’s Big Top Arena on 11th and 12th August, and one in Cape Town at the Grand West Casino on 17th August. Jenkins is known for her classical and operatic interpretations of popular songs, and will be accompanied by a full orchestra. She has achieved international acclaim in recent years, and has won a number of awards, including two Classical Brit Awards. Tickets are available through Computicket at www.computicket.com. Visit www.katherinejenkins.co.uk for more information.

Floral Fun With spring just around the corner, the Shelley Point Flower Power Festival is a must for all who want to see the best of the country’s natural floral beauty. Just two hours from Cape Town, the festival draws visitors from around the world every year. This year’s festival will take place on 24th and 25th August at the Shelley Point Hotel, Spa & Country Club in St Helena Bay. Adventure tours are available in the area during the course of the festival, and there will also be a host of activities to keep the kids entertained. Some of the festival’s further attractions include a craft market, food fair, wine tasting and live music. For bookings and enquiries, contact the Shelley Point Hotel, Spa & Country Club on +27 22 742 1508.

“Ding Dong” the Bells are Going to Ring This year’s Wedding Expo is set to be the biggest and best ever hosted in South Africa. The country’s top wedding planners, photographers and caterers will be showcasing current and upcoming trends in marriage celebrations. Information on venues, honeymoons and every other aspect of hosting a wedding will be on show. Prominent guests at the expo include Nicole Allen, editor of leading bridal magazine Wedding Inspirations, as well as Sarah Haywood, who is an internationally-acclaimed wedding planner for celebrities and royals as well as a best-selling author. The Wedding Expo will take place in Johannesburg on 25th and 26th August at the Coca-Cola Dome and in Cape Town on 31st August at the Cellars-Hohenort Hotel, Constantia. Tickets are available from www.wedding-expo.co.za.

August 2012|

bits Super Flexible Safaris World renowned travel organisation, &Beyond, has recently launched their new tailor-made yoga safari packages. With the growing popularity of wellness tourism in South Africa, &Beyond is offering travel packages and unique safaris developed for each guestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specific needs. Guests can choose packages in the Namib Desert, the Okavango Delta or the Masai Mara plains â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the tours cover 16 countries in Africa. &Beyond also runs yoga tours in India, Sri Lanka and Bhutan, with 33 unique lodges tailor made for each location. Every safari is led by professional local and international yoga instructors, and the focus is on meditating, healthy eating and reconnecting with the surroundings. Activities include game drives, yoga classes and massages. &Beyond uses profits from the tours to help local communities through conservation and empowerment. For more information or to make a booking, call +27 11 809 4300, or visit www.andBeyond.com.

Descend to Utopia Down there, there are no traffic lights, no junk mail, no TVs and no crowded shopping malls. Down there, you will not have to think about screaming bosses, tacky billboards or ringing cell phones. So, if you know all of this, what are you still doing up here? This winter, head to the warmer climate of Mozambique and explore the natural beauty and tranquillity that can be found below the azure waters of the Indian Ocean. Situated in the Bazaruto Archipelago, Vilanculos Divers has a friendly and professional team who are waiting to guide you through the breathtaking sites hidden below the surface of the Archipelago. For more information or reservations, contact Vilanculos Divers on +258 84 837 4967 or email dive@vilanculos.co.za.

Winter Wilderness Escapes Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat is offering a selection of winter getaways in the Cederberg Mountains. Bushmans Kloof is a Natural Heritage Site, with several specimens of San rock art and a wide range of flora and fauna species. Several holiday packages and special rates are on offer, starting with the three-night Winter Getaway at R1,630 per person sharing per night. For the more discerning traveller, the Koro Lodge Villa is available for up to four adults and four children for R11,550 per night, and includes all meals, beverages, a private chef, host and nature guide. Food and wine weekends, yoga retreats and leopard sightseeing are a few of the many other activities on offer. For more information on the wide variety of packages available, or to make a booking, contact +27 21 481 1860 or email info@bushmanskloof.co.za.

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bits The Nourishment of Nature Renowned skincare pioneer Crabtree & Evelynâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new collection of Avocado, Olive and Basil body and hand care products have just arrived in South Africa. The range of creams, body butters, lotions and shower gels is ideal for the dry winter months. The products combine the healing power of olive oil and the moisturising qualities of avocado with soothing basil. Shea butter, beeswax and myrrh extracts have also been included to create a luxurious skincare collection. Crabtree & Evelyn has been creating leading skincare products for over 40 years, and has won awards all over the world for their products and their use of natural ingredients. The new Avocado, Olive and Basil range is available at the seven Crabtree & Evelyn stores around the country. For more information, store details and online shopping, visit www.crabtree-evelyn.co.za.

Take the Bus Johannesburg will soon have the iconic red open-top sightseeing buses that have been so successful all over the globe. City Sightseeing will introduce the system in January 2013, and it will operate on the same user-friendly system that has been met with such enthusiasm locally in Cape Town, and nearly 100 other cities in 29 countries. Visitors can experience a wide range of cultures, colours and sights at an affordable rate, with the Hop-On, Hop-Off buses providing reliable, informative and safe transport. The tour routes open at 09h00, and will run seven days a week. Virtual guides are available in several international languages, and the system is child-friendly. For bookings and more information, contact +27 21 511 6000 or visit www.citysightseeing.com.

Honeymooners Paradise at Le Prince Maurice Constance Le Prince Maurice, an idyllic property on the east coast of Mauritius, is offering newlyweds an irresistible honeymoon package until 20th October 2012. This unique opportunity offers all brides free accommodation at this world class hotel - the only Relais & Chateaux accredited hotel in Mauritius. Inspired by the spice route, and Prince Orange of Nassau, Le Prince Maurice is set within 60 hectares of unspoiled tropical gardens, and is sheltered from offshore winds, making it an ideal spot for all manner of water sports. The intimate setting of the resort houses 76 suites and 13 villas. A high-functioning deluxe paradise, Le Prince Maurice is intimate and wonderfully stylish, making it an ideal honeymoon destination. This special is applicable to couples who have been married for no longer than nine months. Kindly note that Le Prince Maurice will be closed to guests from 1st July 2012 until 31st August 2012 as the hotel is undergoing a full refurbishment. For more information, visit www.constancehotels.com.

August 2012|

Travel

Greater Goods for the Greater Good Markets are Remaking Johannesburg

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Travel

Some of the best places to shop in Johannesburg can now be found in some of the unlikeliest of places. Formerly run-down areas are being regenerated by the growing popularity of new markets and projects, which are attracting a wide variety of people. The pioneers of these projects hope this signals the end of the bad reputation some areas of the city have developed. Text & Images © Lesley Stones The Neighbourhood Goods Market is held every Saturday in Braamfontein

Several projects have sprung up in pockets of Johannesburg to re-gentrify once-glorious streets that have become dubious areas. The first initiative to draw shoppers into a run-down area was 44 Stanley in Milpark, where ugly buildings around two courtyards have been converted into an attractive collection of small shops, offices and cafes. The stores mostly specialise in fashion, hand crafted furniture and antiques, as well as the unusual Vintage Cowboys that sells old curiosities and new Vespa scooters. “This was the first proper gentrification of a run-down area anywhere in Johannesburg for people looking for something to do,” says Brian Green, a co-owner of 44 Stanley. “We set our goals high with the aesthetics and style, and we don’t cater for any particular age group, class

or colour, so we attract a wide range of people.” The area is open all week, but does most of its trade on the weekends, while two restaurants keep it buzzing in the evenings. Green would like more restaurants or bars to open in 44 Stanley to enhance the evening vibe, but when he started in 2003 Milpark was so dodgy that the cautious traders set their own terms, and most chose daytime opening hours. “It’s a shame because it could be such a beautiful place at night, and I think we’ll have to do that in time to stay in the game,” he says. The recent arrival of two more city centre markets proves that Johannesburg has a huge recovery potential. The newest venture is the Neighbourhoods Goods Market in Braamfontein which is held every Saturday. Speciality traders include a

August 2012

Travel 44 Stanley is a trendy enclave in the heart of Johannesburg perfect for a spot of shopping and a meal with friends

micro-brewery, coffee roaster, chocolatier and charcuterie, and the view from 73 Juta Street looks out over the landmark Mandela Bridge. Co-founder Justin Rhodes and his partner first launched a market in the Biscuit Mill in Cape Town’s Woodstock area. “That was what spearheaded the whole regeneration of Woodstock. Things were starting to happen but it takes something with mass appeal like a market to be the breaking point for the regeneration of a neighbourhood,” he says. Rhodes hopes the market will help to regenerate Braamfontein much as they did with Woodstock. “It would have been much easier to start something in Melrose Arch but we took a real risk. People told us we were crazy, because there is crime and also no parking in the building so you have to walk two blocks through the city and for some people that’s an adventure. It’s all the stuff that people in Joburg are terrified of. But we were looking to do something to bring people into this area of the city and regenerate it.” The market is in a beautiful heritage building and its creation was a three-year project in partnership with property developer Adam Levy. “People still say we’re crazy because Joburg culture isn’t geared to going to Braamfontein on a Saturday morning, it’s geared towards going to the shopping malls. That’s much safer and easier and it’s much harder to lead people to the city, but I hope that the city centre will improve and things like our market will contribute to the cultural landscape there,” says Rhodes. Another ambitious project is the conversion of historical buildings in Maboneng Precinct to create a mixed-use community with residential apartments, shops, offices, art galleries and the Bioscope cinema. When the Sunday Market on Main opened there in January 2011 there were already 300 people living in the precinct. “The market is something that was extremely necessary for Joburg, and it was also great for residents to have a place to buy fresh produce,” says Hayleigh Evans, Brand Manager of Propertuity, the company

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driving the project. “The market attracts more than 1,000 visitors every week and has a communal eating area and a rooftop bar. It attracts families, foreigners and locals acting as tourists in their own city. A monthly Night Market also confirms that people are now comfortable coming back to the city at night,” says Evans. “The regeneration and re-inhabitation of the city centre has gained momentum over the past few years,” she says. “When people come for the market, they are immediately exposed to what is going on in Maboneng as a whole and can see the upliftment of the area. Pockets all over the city are developing and the markets contribute by having a broad mass appeal. There is a big family element and something for everyone, which means that everyone joins in and comes back for more.” Together, these markets are evidence that the pioneering spirit that created Johannesburg in 1886 has returned 126 years later to reclaim the city. For more information, visit www.44stanley.co.za, www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za and www.marketonmain.co.za. n

Feature

The Wizards of

Fine Wine The Cape Winemakers Guild

The Cape Winemakers Guild marks its 30 th anniversary this year and its three decades of winemaking excellence is certainly something well worth celebrating. Text & Images: © Cape Winemakers Guild

Over the years, the Guild has evolved into a body of 45 members who jointly represent the best of South African wine achievement. Guild members are all experts in their respective fields, and have played a significant role in the development of the South African wine industry. On 24th August 1982, eight enthusiastic winemakers met in the home of the Guild’s founding chairman, Billy Hofmeyr, at Welgemeend in Paarl. The first of its kind, the Cape Independent Winemakers Guild had one objective: to pool their resources and knowledge in order to craft great South African wines that would be among the best in the world. Knowledge sharing was the major focus of the Guild, and members could taste wines from around the world and compare them to their own. At the time of the Guild’s establishment, the wine industry was dominated by the large conglomerates, KWV, Stellenbosch Farmers Winery and Gilbeys, and South Africa was in a period of isolation and sanctions. Few South African wines were exported and they did not enjoy international acclaim. Imported wines were rare and only a select few individuals had the privilege of owning a private wine collection. The establishment of the Guild gave independent winemakers a collective voice and an opportunity to change

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the status quo. Stringent membership criteria were adopted, restricting membership to independent winemakers who were wholly involved in the vineyards, winemaking and bottling, as well as marketing their wines themselves. Keen to encourage exports and fill their empty containers, Safmarine became the Guild’s first sponsor, helping members to ship their wines to the United Kingdom. Guild wines were even showcased at the London Trade Fair during the organisation’s early years. At the 1990 International Wine and Spirit Competition, eight Guild wines were awarded gold medals, the highest number attained by any one South African organisation participating at the time. In addition, the Guild brought home the Packaging Trophy for its auction wine label.

Wines under the Hammer The first Guild Auction took place in 1985 in Rosebank, Johannesburg. Today, the auction week is a hive of activity and includes the Guild Sports Day, where the public can join Guild members for a game of golf or bowls, as well as attend dinners with the winemakers at winery restaurants. In 1992, the Guild Auction moved to Cape Town. Nedbank became the official sponsor of the Guild and its auction in 1996,

Feature The current members of the Cape Winemakers Guild Guild member Louis Strydom is a winemaker with Engelbrecht Els Vineyards

and in 2000, the Guild changed its name, dropping the word “Independent”, to become the “Cape Winemakers Guild”. This opened the door for prominent winemakers employed by larger organisations to also become members. The lifting of sanctions in the 1990s brought about great increases in sales. Following the end of Apartheid, international buyers began showing an interest in the Guild Auction, and by 1999, 50 % of all the auction purchases came from overseas buyers. Today, the local interest exceeds the international contingent with 70 % of last year’s total auction sales (valued at R5 million) going to local buyers. All wines sold at the auction are made exclusively for the event by Guild members. Until 2010, wines were meticulously selected by a tasting panel, but new selection criteria have been adopted to boost creativity and achieve a greater diversity of wine styles. With the new criteria, members can now decide whether or not to submit a wine for the auction provided it has no technical defects and the highest standards are met.

The original founder members of the Guild in the 1980s

The Best of the Best The new millennium saw the Guild evolve substantially. A new generation of young winemakers brought new expertise and perspectives into the organisation. Between 2000 and 2010, membership grew by an astounding 80 %. The Guild Auction also grew from a niche event to the country’s definitive public wine action, with annual showcases launched in Cape Town in 2001, followed by Johannesburg in 2002. The showcases enabled the public to sample the auction wines. While the Guild has clear business objectives with its annual auction, the sharing of knowledge is as important today as it was 30 years ago. Monthly technical tastings of local and international wines remain a major priority for the members. Today, the 45 top winemakers in the Guild continue to raise wine standards higher than ever before, striving to extract the full potential from the unique South African terroir and to set new world class benchmarks for South African winemaking. Membership of the Guild is by invitation only, and is extended to winemakers who have produced outstanding wines for a minimum of five years. Acknowledging its trailblazers is enshrined in the very fabric

of the Guild, whose list of Honorary Members includes Francois Naude, Norma Ratcliffe, Johann Krige, Walter Finlayson and Lynne Sherriff.

Passing on the Knowledge In 1999, the Nedbank Cape Winemakers Guild Development Trust was established to support social development through education in winemaking communities. Over the years, the Development Trust has supported numerous learners at schools. In 2006, the Cape Winemakers Guild Protégé Programme was launched to bring about transformation by educating and empowering promising individuals to become winemakers of excellence. The mentorship programme gives viticulture and oenology graduates the opportunity to work alongside Guild members. To date, eight protégés have participated in the programme, two of whom have graduated. The Protégé Programme also offers bursaries to final year viticulture and oenology students at Stellenbosch University and Elsenburg Agricultural College. The 28th annual Nedbank Cape Winemakers Guild Auction will take place on 6th October at the Spier Conference Centre in Stellenbosch. For more information about purchasing Guild wines at auction, visit www.capewinemakersguild.com, email info@capewinemakersguild.com or call +27 21 852 0408. n

August 2012

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Travel

Authentic, Eccentric and

Afrocentric Cape Town’s Afropolitan Dining Scene

While Cape Town is undeniably an international cultural hub in every respect, its culinary establishments define it on the global stage. We live on a very culturally diverse continent, and as one of its most vibrant hubs, the Mother City certainly reflects that. It is a memorable experience to discover some of the city’s more unconventional and exceptional restaurants, which capture the true essence of Africa. Text & Images: © Keith Bain

Cape Town boasts a number of ethnic restaurants, where adventurous diners can taste their way around the African continent

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Travel Yeshi Mekonnen has channelled her passion for cooking the dishes of her homeland into Cape Town’s Little Ethiopia Restaurant

Ethiopian Eats I am sitting on a low stool at a table hovering below my knees at the tiniest restaurant in Cape Town. There are no pretences that this is fine dining. There is no cutlery or condiments, just a few wall hangings and an exotic, difficultto-place soundtrack. From the moment you step inside Little Ethiopia, you know that you are in for an alternative epicurean experience. Here you will find Yeshi Mekonnen, an elegant woman with fine features, caramel skin, and eyes that shimmer like jewels. Her entrepreneurial streak is twinned with hands-on skill. Hard at work in her pint-sized kitchen, she produces spice scented aromas that make the wait for her food part of the experience. “I have a passion to cook,” says the softly spoken Addis Ababa born and raised restaurateur. She learnt by culinary osmosis, absorbing all she knows from her mother. Her year-old eatery is a lifelong dream come true. With its litany of exotic dishes, Yeshi’s menu does not make it easy to pick a meal if you are discovering the cuisine for the first time. The crafting of flavours comes from blending chillies, herbs and spices to create berbere, which imbues the food with its distinctive flavour. Various stews (or wot) are made with either meat or vegetables. Doro wot (chicken stew) is popular with first timers, probably because it is the first item on the menu and simple enough to pronounce, while the lentil based misir wot is a personal favourite of mine. Beyond knowing what to do with your food once it arrives, there is little hope trying to discern one dish from the

other when ordering. A good idea is to tuck into the platter style dishes: beyeaynetu is vegetarian, while mahberawi is a sampling of meat stews. One of the great pleasures of Ethiopian dining is that you eat with your hands, tearing off pieces of injera, a sourdough flatbread traditionally made from a tiny grain called teff. Yeshi uses a rice flour substitute to similar effect, to produce something resembling a large spongy pancake prepared from fermented batter. Scoop up your wot using pieces of injera, and you have in your hand the start of a fortifying meal. Not far from Yeshi’s intimate, budget priced eatery is upscale Addis in Cape, which is reached via a wooden stairway scented by incense. Spacious and visually innovative, it belongs to Senait Mekonnen, an impeccably stylish ex-pat with short cropped hair and the kind of gorgeous accent you expect to find in a James Bond movie. She set up her first restaurant in Dar es Salaam 15 years ago and it is now one of the most talked about restaurants in Tanzania. Senait’s repurposing of a colonial era building into an African eatery is smart and refreshing, and it is filled with just enough suggestions of her native country, without becoming a cliché. Above the mesob tables and low chairs, a canopy of upside-down embroidered ceremonial umbrellas and metallic Coptic crosses are reminders of the central role religion plays in Senait’s motherland. Besides having created a beautiful space, Senait knows that it is the food that really matters, and the menu is hugely rewarding. To make the most of it, it is worth ordering a variety of dishes to turn the meal into an occasion for sharing. If the gentle burn of barbere is too much for you, opt for

August 2012

Travel Exotic décor and foreign languages are part of the fun of dining outside of your comfort zone

toned down alicha, where the chilli is replaced with turmeric. Or choose from a number of palate cooling side dishes such as homemade cottage cheese (ayeb) or lentil salad (azifa). Senait says that she still gets more foreign tourists than locals, which is a reminder that Cape Town suffers from a type of culinary Apartheid, a sense that certain cuisines are more legitimate than others. Certain hipster types would rather dip fried chips into scented aioli than sample traditional foods from other parts of their own continent. The culinary adventurous, however, would do well to explore the city’s underbelly.

Cameroonian Cuisine Choosing to do just that, I find myself in the bowels of the African Women’s Craft Market on Long Street. I am hoping to discover the flavours of West Africa, but it takes a bit of puzzling through a maze of mask, batik and jewellery stalls before I find Bebe Rose, a rudimentary spot with a handful of tables and two tiny kitchens tucked at the back. There isn’t even a sign. As a strictly functional space, it is not pretty, but I have come to sample exotic flavours, not to learn about interior design. In one corner, a tiny television balances atop a fridge stocked with Stoney ginger beer. Al Jazeera newscasts play for those who come here to eat, and I imagine the distances my fellow diners have travelled from their homes to start their lives afresh, the way Mama Rose did when she arrived here from Cameroon in 1995. Just figuring my way through the menu is a learning experience. There is a version with pictures designed for tourists, but it is better to consult Rose directly. With

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her turquoise tights, high-heels and a warm smile, she is instinctively matriarchal and motherly. She tells me about ndolé, which is made with what she calls the “ultimate vegetable” – slightly bitter and spinach-like, it grows just about everywhere in Cameroon. Its leaves are cooked with a nut paste, sun dried vegetables, chilli, and beef, lamb or fish to become a sort of signature stew. It is also her national dish. Her menu is primarily Cameroonian, but features a few items from other parts of Africa, including Congolese pundu, made with cassava leaves and a spicy peanut sauce. West African food includes much that is fried and artery antagonising, but is designed to eliminate all traces of hunger. My fish is served alongside rice steeped in a potent sauce, which is fiery enough to make me break into a mild sweat, although the flavours are justifiable reward for the pili-pili bang. I walk out deeply satisfied. In contrast with Bebe Rose’s pared down aesthetic, is the melange décor up at Timbuktu, the alfresco café on the first floor of the nearby Pan-African Market. Draped with fabrics and crammed full of African artefacts and vintage collectibles, it is a mix between an antique bazaar and Bohemian lounge, not unlike stepping into a scene from Tintin. Flopping onto one of the ancient rug covered sofas on the wooden balcony; I grab a book from the makeshift library, and drift into a reverie as scratchy jazz evokes a bygone era. Having awakened my taste buds to the possibilities of flavoursome African dining, I confidently choose just the right wot to suit my mood. The grumble of Long Street’s relentless traffic recedes into the background, and I know that I am truly at home. n

restaurant & bar

Restaurant of the Year*

Chef of the Year*

No 19 Huguenot Street, Franschhoek, 7690 • Tel: 021 876 3772 • Fax: 021 876 4464 reservations@reubens.co.za • www.reubens.co.za Bookings essential two weeks in advance * Eat Out Johnnie Walker Restaurant of the Year 2005 * Eat Out Johnnie Walker Chef of the Year 2005 * Unilever Foodsolutions By Invitation Only Chef of the Year 2007

Feature

Claws First Putting Paws and

New Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre

The Cape of Good Hope SPCA opened its first short-term wildlife rehabilitation centre earlier this year, which now offers a 24-hour emergency service as well as short-term care to animals in need. Text: Lyndon Jaftha/mediaclubsouthafrica.com Images: ÂŠ Tamed & Framed Photography

SPCA Inspector Jeroncio Josephs with a rescued bearded dragon

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This young honey badger was rescued by farm workers who found it wandering down a road when it was just a few weeks old, and was then taken to the Cape of Good Hope SPCA Short-Term Wildlife Care Facility for treatment and care. The adorable animal, which was named Willow, has now been sent to a long-term wildlife rehabilitation centre in Plettenberg Bay

Feature

Rehabilitation centres are a safe haven for injured and sick animals, and in a country rich with wildlife, there will always be a need for such centres. They allow animals to recover from trauma before being released back into the wild, or offer them a safe place to live for the rest of their lives should they not be able to return to their natural habitat. The Cape of Good Hope (CoGH) SPCA is the largest and oldest SPCA in South Africa, and is situated in the Cape Flats area of Grassy Park. For this bustling area, a short-term rehabilitation centre was needed to provide emergency treatment and care for an ever-increasing number of displaced, injured and sick animals. Because of urban spread, animal exploitation and the everpresent desire for exotic pets, CoGH SPCA has been dealing with animal emergencies since 2000 and was sorely in need of a rehabilitation facility. The organisation did some research into international procedures and sought advice from numerous experts before approaching the designers at Rondebosch-based 4th Dimension Studios. The centre was then built by leading construction and renovation company, R+N Masters Builders. With the bulk of the funding coming from the National Lottery Distribution Trust Fund, as well as the CoGH SPCA’s reserve funds, the building costs amounted to R4.6 million (approximately $559,000).

Making a Difference The official opening took place in May and was attended by a number of dignitaries. Some of the guests included Marjorie Letoaba, a senior manager at the National Lotteries Board, and Lewis Pugh, a well-known environmental campaigner, motivational speaker and adventurer. He is also the ambassador for the wildlife unit of the CoGH SPCA. “We now have one of the best registered facilities in the world, capable of making a positive difference to the lives of just about every wild creature that we are likely to encounter,” says CoGH CEO Alan Perrins. The Cape Town area is well known for its wealth of natural resources, with several reserves, a national park and a long coastline falling into the greater Cape Town metropole. This results in an increasing number of human/animal conflicts. Between April 2010 and March 2011 – just one year – CoGH’s wildlife unit responded to 230 cases involving over 1,000 animals. Investigators opened 183 cases of cruelty and dealt with 476 issues of conflict between humans and animals. “Often all that the displaced animal needs is somewhere safe, warm and quiet to recover before being released back into the wild,” says wildlife unit supervisor Brett Glasby. “For those with injuries, such as burns or wounds, or those that are emaciated and dehydrated, we now have the facilities to provide specialist treatment and care.”

Top Class Facilities The CoGH SPCA’s new facilities have been endorsed and welcomed by all relevant parties, including local and provincial environmental authorities as well as the national SPCA body. As well as saving animals in distress, it will serve as an educational centre where young people starting out in careers in

The front elevation of the new SPCA Short-Term Wildlife Care Facility in Grassy Park, Cape Town

SPCA Inspector Gareth Petterson with a rescued Cape Crow

Gareth Petterson and Dr Robyn McCann take a look at a rescued injured owl admitted to the facility

wildlife management can learn the correct techniques. The rehabilitation centre accommodates all animals, and has aquapens, reptile rooms, aviaries and outdoor enclosures, as well as quarantine rooms, an operating theatre and a kitchen. It also has two fully-equipped emergency vehicles. Some of the animals that have been in the facility’s care include a Honey badger (the centre’s first resident, named Willow); a bearded dragon; a Puff adder; a Cape cobra and a Black crow. “Our task now is to secure support from individual, trust, foundation and corporate donors who care as much as we do about the welfare and conservation of our wildlife,” says Perrins. Donations of supplies such as straw, blankets, lawn and soil, shade cloth or kitchen items are welcome, as are volunteers to clean enclosures and monitor the animals. T he SPCA movement in South Africa, which comprises of 94 SPCAs, is actively involved in the protection of all animals, not just domestic pets. The CoGH SPCA can be contacted on +27 21 700 4158/9 or on +27 83 526 1604 after hours. n

August 2012

Travel

Istanbul

The Sweet

Sultans of

With such a colourful, historical timeline, the old city of Istanbul can be compared to a layered piece of tantalising confectionery.

Text & Images: ÂŠ Gary Hirson

The Blue Train

Travel In Istanbul’s markets there are spices for every taste, ailment, affliction and endurance. They tickle your nose and dance psychedelically before your eyes

With limited time to see the sites, I negotiated my way through the warren of cobbled streets of this ancient city. Side stepping tea carrying waiters, I window shopped past rows of curio displays and fended off enthusiastic carpet salesmen, before my interest was suddenly arrested by the most succulent and vivid display imaginable. I stood motionless, drooling at a colourful array of Turkish Delight. The story goes that, in an attempt to appease his many wives, a famous Sultan ordered his confectioner to create a unique sweet. The confectioner blended together sugar syrup, various flavourings, nuts and dried fruits and bound them together with mastic (gum). After several attempts, this delectable treat was the final result. The delighted Sultan proclaimed the sweet maker the court’s chief confectioner and thereafter, a plate of lokum (meaning “morsel” or “mouthful” in Arabic), later to be known as Turkish Delight, was served at daily feasts in the Ottoman court. The sheer array of sugar-dusted cubes made deciding which ones to sample taxing, to say the least. Waving my hand across the display, I instructed the amused shop hand: “At least one of each!” Sweets in hand, my first stop was the Blue Mosque. As no eating is allowed inside, I remained outside and sank my teeth into the rosewater flavoured sponge and crunched through a pistachio. My polite nibbling turned to incessant gobbling and two dried fruit and nut pieces later, I settled into the shadows of the Egyptian Obelisk and Serpentine Column at the remains of the Hippodrome to wolf down more. The mouth-watering flavours of ginger, coconut,

There is no use trying to resist Istanbul’s many artful displays of Turkish Delights

The Haghia Sophia, first a church, then a mosque and now a museum is viewed best with a mouthful of Turkish Delights

August 2012

Travel

Just when you think you have had your fill, a friendly waitress shows you otherwise

Choice is everything in Istanbul – be it food, sites or road side purchases.

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cinnamon, chocolate, and mint were savoured and quickly devoured. The sugar had taken hold, and I raced across the Galata Bridge spanning the natural harbour of the Golden Horn. I chomped my way up towards the Galata Tower, which has overlooked the harbour since the 6th century. I squeezed shoulder to shoulder with the other tourists to experience the late afternoon view of the old city. Sugar rush over, my drowsy eyes and empty carrier bag reminded me that I had had enough for one day. Waking early the next morning, I visited the Basilica Cistern, the Haghia Sophia and shortly thereafter, I found myself sitting and enjoying a glass of refreshing apple tea while sizing up a tempting display of baklava. The exuberant shop owner explained his passion for the perfect piece of baklava. “The first form of the thinly leafed, phyllo pastry was developed in the kitchens of the Topkapi Palace when the local Sultan presented trays of baklava to the household bodyguards every 15th day of the month of Ramadan in a ceremonial procession called the Baklava Alayı. It is no wonder that it’s called the Sultan’s dessert. “Each of the 40 layers of leafed phyllo is hand rolled so thin that you can read a newspaper through it before it gets baked, and cooked to such a degree that it comes out golden brown and crisp. We baste it with just enough syrup so as not to leave the base soggy, and to allow for the rich taste of the hazelnuts, walnuts, pistachios, or chocolate to ooze through.” By now, I am onto my third piece of this rich national treasure, and I wonder if there is room for more. “Each piece weighs 150 g – big enough to enjoy, but small enough to entice some more,” he says knowingly. “Have as much baklava as you can eat so you can tell all your friends about our good food and generous people,” he smiles. During my brief stay in this buzzing city, I have had a complete sensory experience. I have marvelled at the history, listened to the daily melodic chants and tasted paradise. My last treat before heading out was a quick jaunt to the Spice Bazaar. Seven million tourists visit Istanbul annually, and as I entered the labyrinth, it felt as if the other 6,999,999 tourists were all there with me! Jostling along with the tide of people, my olfactory nerves went into overdrive as spiced scents wafted from the mounds of coloured textures on synchronised display. With limited time, I stocked up on exotic spices as well as something called “love tea” which I am assured will result in me being pursued by hordes of adoring women offering endless nights of passion! I left Istanbul overflowing with edible gifts because, unlike its architectural masterpieces, one of its biggest attractions – its sweet delicacies – are easy to share, and once tasted, they are sure to entice even more sweettoothed tourists to Turkey’s shores. n

Feature

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Feature

Thebehind ZingZingara

Richard Griffin

Madame Zingara’s founder, Richard Griffin, has a business recipe that is as one-of-a-kind as his dinner circus show. While performers execute complex and dangerous acrobatic manoeuvres, Griffin is doing acrobatics of his own – juggling being a managing director and a friend to every one of his staff. We spoke to him about his remarkable success, the future of his spectacular extravaganza and the way he runs the show – literally and figuratively. Text: Nicola Weir Images: © Irvine Bartlett

Richard Griffin is a ball of energy, strutting confidently through Café Paradiso – one of five restaurants in his stable. As he goes, he greets the staff by name, pausing briefly to call out to one of the managers: “Please remind me not to forget a present for your mom’s birthday!” That just about sums him up – creative, eccentric and energetic, with a heart of gold. To pass him in the street, you would never believe that this is the man who built a hospitality empire and who juggles landmark restaurants and a travelling showcase – which serves up to 1,600 plates of food in one night! Richard’s journey started in 2001 when he opened a small restaurant in Loop Street. The restaurant grew to be loved by many in Cape Town, but in 2006 disaster struck and it burnt down leaving a lot of his staff unemployed. Realising the crisis his staff now faced, he opened the Theatre of Dreams, a travelling dinner-cirque-extravaganza housed in spectacular Victoria, a ‘spiegel tent’ – one of the last remaining antique mirror tents in the world. Over the years, Richard has acquired five restaurants in Cape Town (Bombay Bicycle Club, Cafe Paradiso, Sidewalk Café, Cafe Mozart and Don Pedro & all his Beautiful Wives), many of them much-loved city landmarks. Last year marked Madame Zingara’s tenth anniversary and it is being celebrated with the most spectacular Theatre of Dreams extravaganza yet. “We have rebuilt Madame Zingara,” Richard tells me excitedly. “Madame Zingara has been on the road for five years now and my feeling is that there is a shelf life for any product and while our clients are not bored, the cast is bored and that will not translate well to the audience.” So what can audiences expect? The new tent looks and feels like three worlds are colliding with the guests caught right in the middle of it. “We changed the structure of the tent, adding

another foyer and a new bar area with new outside grounds,” explains Richard. “We also expanded the stage to include a new hydraulic stage to give the performances a new dimension and to give our guests a whole new experience.” Meeting business and hospitality in the middle comes down to knowing your audience. Knowing what they like, knowing what they want and giving them what they need. For Richard this is paramount and he applies this ethos to even the finest detail. “For instance, when we were shopping for plates and cups for the new show, the chef questioned my choices as he found them maybe a little too conventional, but when you are dealing with guests who might be coming from a conservative South African background, a drag queen is scary for them! And you have to give them those touches of normality here and there to help them feel at ease. Once they have normal – their security blanket so to speak – then you can start pushing boundaries knowing that there is a chance that they will not only accept what you are doing, they will enjoy it too.” Another important business aspect of the entertainment and hospitality industry is not only guest satisfaction, but staff satisfaction too – which is something that Richard puts a strong emphasis on. “The picture of Madame Zingara would be completely different without the staff. When they enjoy what they are doing as much as the guests are enjoying themselves, it creates the whole vibe and attitude that people love about Madame Zingara.” Taking care of hundreds of waiters, bartenders, back of house and kitchen staff, construction crews, back stage crews and performers is not an easy task but Richard prides himself on being there. “I am still very hands on. The business has expanded enormously so I do have to focus more on operations

August 2012

Feature Café Mozart is nestled in the heart of Cape Town’s CBD The acrobatic Christine performing her unique bath act at the Theatre of Dreams

but that is a role that I would like to step back from now and get back to what I love which is building this product and creating this environment. “We currently have 350 staff members which will probably climb to 600 by the end of the year and I need that time with them. I need contact with them to make sure that what we do best keeps happening. Yes, I have my moments when I come across an employee that has made a mistake in their work, but I don’t want to grill them and shout at them because I understand that we all have factors in our life that affect us. In South Africa we all have things that worry us, like crime for instance, and I feel that as a company we have to acknowledge that. Do I really want to grill you on how to make a client happy? No, I want to talk about how we can make you happy and then the rest will follow naturally.” For Richard, this philosophy was the driving force behind the opening of Madame Zingara in the first place “I opened Zingara because I wanted to find a new way to work with people,” says Richard. And maintaining this ethos is one part of how and why the company is going through so many changes. Richard explains, “Last year I looked at the massive expansion we were going through and I saw the original foundations of the company shifting. I saw all the one-to-one contact we used to have with staff falling away and becoming a thing of the past and that made me very unhappy. I couldn’t believe that my message, the message that has been instilled in Zingara, was being lost. No one was talking to the staff about the important things in life.” Richard decided to do something about it and came up with a creative way of solving the problem. He decided to split the human resources department to create what he calls a ‘Heart Centre’. A place away from the head office where employees can go to talk about problems they are having that affect their

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Bombay Bicycle Club is a bohemian addition to Cape Town’s dining scene

work. “It’s a place that has nothing to do with payroll and work hours and UIF. It’s purely about what we believe in. They have a place to run to and people to turn to. On paper our HR was running very well but it was not meeting the people’s needs.” The hospitality industry is rife with high staff turnover and Richard agrees that, at the end of the day, it affects balance sheet performance. “My goal would be to have 0% staff turnover,” he declares. “I want people to leave for new and better challenges and opportunities, not because they are unhappy. I have, in the past, encouraged staff and performers to take hold of opportunities that come up and to travel the world – and to come back to us when they are ready. “People ask me, what is it about a tent that makes people go mad? It’s when you take a group of people and shove them all together in a big top and they are normal and weird and strange and divine and they all rub together – that’s where you make magic!” n

Travel

The

Greatest Shoal on Earth Diving Aliwal Shoal

The unpredictability of Aliwal Shoal makes every dive here unique – even the most seasoned divers have different experiences every time they descend below its surface. The addition of a fickle current and the predominance of Ragged Tooth sharks and Humpback whales make ‘the Shoal’ one of the most exciting places in the world to dive. Text: Adam Cruise Images: © www.bluewilderness.co.za

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Travel

Aliwal Shoal is one of the few places in the world where you can dive with Tiger sharks

A Moody Mistress I experienced this phenomenon first hand during my very first dives at Aliwal. The first dive was to the wreck of The Produce, one of the two ships claimed by the shoal during one of its “off” days. We had also anchored on the wreck on an “off” day and the current was so powerful that it took a gargantuan effort just to pull ourselves under the water, as our masks wobbled on our faces and threatened to be ripped off. The sheer effort required on the descent was enough to exhaust our air supply, and no sooner had we reached the bottom, then we had to turn around and head straight back up again, all the while clinging to the rope like a string of Tibetan prayer flags. Yet my second visit to the same wreck the following day was so serenely sublime, it was almost impossible to imagine that it was the same dive. Overnight the conditions had changed from tempestuous to limpid (although the surf launches were still a white-knuckle affair). The surface sparkled like diamonds in the

sunlight, the current had vanished and we dropped easily to The Produce in crystal clear water, without having to use the rope at all. Once at the bottom, we could make out the colossal wreck in its entirety. The rest of the dive was a journey through scuba nirvana. Shoals of goldies hung like orange clouds against a deep blue background, while large silhouettes of Brindle bass lurked among the dark holds, and occasionally moved out to have their cavernous gills raked by cleaner fish.

The Shark Park Aliwal Shoal, however, is most renowned for its Ragged Tooth sharks, which congregate here in winter to mate. Paging through my old logbook the entry of my initial dive with the “Raggies” reads: Max. Depth: 27 m Visibility: 15 m Location: Cathedral

August 2012

Travel

Getting up close and personal with a Ragged tooth shark

Comments: Best dive to date! The dive saw us among no less than 13 sharks, both male and female, circling like a vortex in an underwater amphitheatre. I will never forget those coppery shapes cruising past me at eye level, with their rows of jagged teeth just a metre away, but barely acknowledging our presence. At the time I did not think that scuba diving could get any better. But it did, and again Aliwal was the locale. When I started diving at Aliwal, nobody was aware at the time that the Ragged tooth sharks were just a sideshow. They had cousins – bigger ones – who were always beyond our sight, ubiquitous but unknown. It was only recently that we thought to invite them into our orbit by using baited drums called “chum-sicles”. These days an adrenaline pumping dive with a Tiger shark must rank as one of the most exhilarating experiences You may even be lucky enough to see a Whale shark and a Tiger shark on the same day at Aliwal Shoal on the planet. What’s more, the dive is sans a cage. The divers swim in among the sharks with the Sardine Run. While some years the sardines only make a nothing between them but a wetsuit and some water! This has cameo appearance, the predators that follow them congregate in earned Aliwal its nickname of the ‘Shark Park’. numbers, waiting impatiently for the sardines to arrive. Dolphins

Whales and Natural Wonders There is, however, a lot more to Aliwal Shoal than just shipwrecks and sharks. The name of the little town of Umkomaas, which is opposite the shoal, is actually derived from the misspelling of the Zulu word “Mkomazi”, which means whale cow. This is a reference to the large number of Humpback whales and their young that pass over the shoal each spring. Although they are rarely seen underwater, the melancholy song of whales is likely to accompany an entire dive during this time. The whales coincide with another great marine phenomenon,

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patrol Aliwal in huge schools, while Bryde’s whales lurk in the depths, occasionally breaching right in front of startled divers. Best of all, Aliwal is accessible. Unlike a lot of other scuba diving areas, Aliwal is a mere 45 minute drive from Durban’s King Shaka Airport, so divers can be suited up for a dive within a few hours after leaving their homes in cities as far flung as Cape Town, Port Elizabeth and Johannesburg. If you have yet to dive Aliwal Shoal, it must immediately be placed right at the very top of your bucket list. Then you may agree that despite her “rough edges”, Aliwal Shoal rightly holds the title of one of the world’s top ten dive sites. n

Feature

Mr Blue Train Robin Dowie

Robin Dowie dedicated almost 50 years of his life to working on South Africa’s railways. From an apprentice electrician he learnt the business from the inside out and ended his career as a National Business Manager for Transnet Rail Engineering which is responsible for maintaining The Blue Train. He was instrumental in the design of the Phelophepa – the country’s first dedicated health services train – and was the driving force and creative mind behind the refurbishment of The Blue Train in the 1990s. He was well liked by his colleagues and much respected by his peers in the engineering and railway fields, and today, even after he has gone, both the Phelophepa I and The Blue Train serve as enduring legacies of his life’s work. Text: Nicky Furniss Images: © Kathy Dowie

“Trains were Robin,” says his wife of 40 years, Kathy. “He worked on the railways all his life. He studied through them; he did everything through them. We had crying babies and he would be sitting in the room studying. He never had it easy and I think he has to get credit for that. He had drive and he loved his work; he had a passion for work.” Robin’s passion clearly paid off and from relatively lowly beginnings wiring railway houses, he was promoted up within the ranks of the then-South African Railways and added a degree in Project Management from the University of Pretoria to his credentials along the way. This, no doubt, stood him in good stead when he was asked to work closely on the conceptualisation and design of the Phelophepa I – a project which garnered both local and international acclaim (including a visit from Princess Anne, herself), as well as helping to fulfil a very pressing need for healthcare services for the country’s rural areas. “The Phelophepa was Robin’s first big project and one that he had a passion for because it was so meaningful. Robin was very proud of his contribution on the Phelophepa,” says Kathy. Thanks to Robin’s involvement with the Phelophepa and his knowledge of the inner workings of trains, he was an obvious choice as Project Manager when it came time to refurbish

The Blue Train

Feature Kathy and Robin enjoying a rare moment together while travelling on The Blue Train

The Blue Train in the 1990s. While the finished product was unveiled in 1997, leading up to it Robin and his team spent years conceptualising and planning every detail on the newly built train sets. “Robin and the other planners travelled the world riding on other trains, just to get a feel for them. As I understand it, all they used of the old Blue Train were parts of the undercarriages and they built everything up from there,” explains Kathy. “Robin had people from all over the world quoting and giving ideas – designers from America, kitchen specialists from England. There was a lot of work involved; the planning stages alone took years.” When the new train was finally unveiled, Robin’s attention to detail was evident throughout – from its aircushioned bogies and innovative entertainment system to the last gold-plated light switch. Once it was running, Robin was often onboard and became a popular guest, thanks to his insider knowledge of the train and one of his other passions – South African history. Kathy recalls how she would often find herself sitting at a table alone in the dining room as Robin regaled a crowd of guests about the history of the area they were passing through, and of The Blue Train itself. “When the other guests saw the staff members chatting to Robin and coming to him with queries, they would ask who he was. Then he would tell them and they would say: ‘Ok, well what can you tell us?’ and it would end up with a whole crowd sitting together and listening to Robin.” Robin was invaluable in the maintenance of The Blue Train and was usually the first one called whenever there was an issue with the train. Robin’s expertise in the railway field was also much in demand internationally and he was even asked for his input on the refurbishment of The Ghan – Australia’s iconic passenger train which links Adelaide to Darwin. Robin also had a great impact on many of the colleagues he worked alongside. Before his retirement in 2009, Robin was in charge of a section which was responsible for the ongoing maintenance of The Blue Train as well as the implementation of any new technology onboard the train. Jacques Posthumus was also part of this section and speaks highly of working with Robin: “Robin allowed me to pursue my ideas – as farfetched as they could be – regarding new innovations on The Blue Train. Once I could convince him of either the pros or cons of a new innovation, he would then follow it through until completion. He would also become quite enthusiastic about a project once convinced.” Robin’s supportive nature with his colleagues is reiterated by Linda Jacobs, who worked for many years as Robin’s secretary. “My experience working with Robin was a life changing revelation for me. No-one’s life is one long sunny day; at some point we all face storms. When this happened, Robin always told me that I should ‘Let the emotions subside before you decide’. He used to say: ‘You may not always have a choice, but as much as possible, put significant decisions on hold until your storm passes.’” She adds: “I learnt from him that if we want to stay on track with God and do so with a

good attitude, we have to make communication with Him a priority in our daily schedules, which we did daily at our office. He also always used to say to me: ‘Linda, never burn bridges but build them’ and when I used to get something right he would clap his hands and say: ‘Good for you, my girl!’ He will be truly missed.” On a lighter side, both of Robin’s colleagues remember his absolute aversion for rooibos tea. “If you offered Robin a cup of rooibos he would say: ‘Do you want to be fired?’” says Linda. Jacques adds: “Once for my birthday my wife made me a rooibos cake – which actually looked like a chocolate cake – for the office. I waited until Robin had finished his second helping before I told him, but he never again trusted any of my office birthday offerings!” Kathy laughs when she hears the rooibos stories. “You know, when Robin started work as an electrician on the railways many years ago, he would have to go in and help wire people’s houses and everybody gave him rooibos tea. So that’s where it started, his absolute hatred for it. I love it actually, and he used to make tea for me, bless him. And he would carry it with his arm outstretched and say: ‘Take it, quick!’” Over and above his passion for trains and history, Robin’s overriding passion was undoubtedly for his family: his wife Kathy, his two sons (Patrick and Adrian) and later, his daughters-in-law and his three granddaughters. “Robin was a wonderful provider, a wonderful father and grandfather, and a wonderful husband,” says Kathy as she talks of how much Robin used to enjoy working in the garden with his grandchildren. “When the girls used to see him, they would run and scream ‘Grandpa!’ and he used to get tears in his eyes – he just adored them.” While many will continue to mourn the passing of Robin Dowie, there is no doubt that he lived a fulfilling life, filled with the people he loved and the work he had an absolute passion for. “Working on The Blue Train was the cherry on the top for Robin,” says Kathy, “It was wonderful for him and the train is almost like a legacy that he has left behind. It was his passion and he loved it.” n

August 2012

Travel

Scenes from

The Blue Train “What thrills me about trains is not their size or their equipment but the fact that they are moving, that they embody a connection between unseen places.” – Marianne Wiggins Text & Images: © Nick van der Leek

The Blue Train

Travel

With the massif of Table Mountain drifting behind the glass, and a dewy bottle of Champagne freshly uncorked and foaming, the next hour or so allows one to settle in for one of the most luxurious, and it has to be said, scenic, train journeys in the world. Not many South Africans have seen the wine route from this vantage point; rumbling through Wellington on a winding route towards Worcester. Marianne Wiggins has a point: train journeys, while navigating roughly the same terrain as nearby highways, nevertheless offer a view of previously unseen places. And given the carefree, conversational and comfortable nature of rail travel, there is a wonderful sense of seamless connection to it all which is hard to beat. During our journey, a veil of cool mist had swept over the tip of the peninsula, giving the landscape a ghostly appearance. But as the train slid through innumerable sleepy hollows, the South African sun rose and its fire burned away the silky curtain of the early morning, revealing endless blues and beneath, vivid orange and shades of bottle green: a painter’s palette. The woody interiors glow gold like the towering Cape Mountains that rise alongside. The emerald fields resemble the manicured cut of green golf courses, except when they give way to a patchwork of vineyards swallowing a valley floor. It takes a while to get through this spectacle of rock and wine estates, which means that while one’s eyeballs are tempted by this visual feast, lunch begins a slow seduction of the taste buds. The combination of sights, flavours and soft reverberations of the rails is subtle, but intoxicating. Trains tap into our collective memory. The tracks that were laid across the landscape brought our forefathers into the country for the first time. And while a train does not civilise a wilderness, it provides the closest thing to a preview for the

first-time traveller. Just as glimpses of the terrain in an onscreen story are provided by movie trailers, a train journey provides a penetrating glimpse into a country. The montage through the Hex River Valley is compelling, with the warm South African sun spooling graciously over gigantic vistas. There is an almost imperceptible feeling of an ever-widening world alongside the train inviting a closer, deeper acquaintance. Of course, it is difficult to digest such stupendous scenery at once; especially as such giddy stimulations lend themselves to frivolity. Visitors, then and now, may well be congratulating themselves on their present good circumstances, and toasting to an immediate future that can only get better. Alcohol begins to flow, and as a certain sentimental mistiness sets in, the train hauls itself over a mantle of mountains into a vastly different world. The quiet serenity of the Karoo provides a sobering complement to the earlier panoramas. Inside the train, however, there is a lively chatter, all the way to the Victorian spa town of Matjiesfontein. Here, in the almost spooky emptiness, the visitor has a chance to make those first forays into the “wilderness” beyond the train. It is so quiet here one can hear gravel crunch underfoot, and the whisper of a breeze lifting over rocks. Matjiesfontein, with its wedding cake white Milner Hotel, is as charmingly British as strawberries and cream at Wimbledon. From here, the onward journey takes one through a vast emptiness. And this is where the romance of the train journey comes into full view. While trains connect vastly different places, they do something else that is doubly valuable – they connect us to each other. “…the longing, like the longing that is in the whistle of a faraway train. Except that the longing isn’t really in the whistle – it is in you.” – Meindert DeJong, The Little Cow and the Turtle. n

August 2012

Travel

The Blue Train

Travel

August 2012

Travel

The Blue Train

Chef

Maki-ng Love

Chef Maki Makhi

Mange Tout Restaurant’s Head Chef, Maki Makhi, has a unique outlook on food and the way it should be prepared. Sight, smell and simplicity are treated with a refreshingly new kind of respect – to make guests love food as much as he does. Text: Nicola Weir Images: © Mont Rochelle

The Blue Train

Chef

Chef Makhi started in 2010 at Mont Rochelle as a sous chef and was promoted to head chef in 2011. He has long awaited the chance to head up his own kitchen. “So far it’s been really good,” he says, “I love my new position. It is great to be able to implement my own ideas and to take the kitchen in the direction that I want it to go. But even though I am the head chef now, I never forget that I have a team. I like to ask them for their input on the menu because you have to work closely with your team and build their confidence – this is vital for creating a great work environment.” He says that he is firm believer that the environment you are in influences what you do in the kitchen. “For me, the garden has a big influence on what I do.” The garden he is referring to is the herb garden that holds pride of place in the grounds of Mont Rochelle. It was established in 2010 and many of the tantalising flavours guests find on their plates originate here. “I love my garden,” he says, “It is like a treasure box. Every night, before service starts, I come into the garden and experience all the smells and it puts me in a good mood. It’s a great source of inspiration – I love coming in and finding something that I can use. The garden does not control what I do, I can’t allow that to happen, but it does inspire me and I do like coming in and searching for a flavour.” He is reluctant, though, to disclose any future plans he has for the cuisine at Mont Rochelle, saying instead that trends in gastronomy are constantly changing and that you never know where they will lead you. His vision as far as his guests are concerned is crystal clear though. “I believe that you have to make the guests’ experience as easy as possible for them. Don’t over complicate their experience as they will then be uncomfortable when they taste your food and because of that, they may not be open to the finer nuances and flavours that you have put into the dish.” One of the ways in which he does this is with his presentation. “You can, for instance, make sure that a meat dish contains as few bones as possible,” he explains. “Take them out and make the dish as easy as possible to

experience.” Another way that he ensures a comfortable dining experience is with the menu. “Our menu really stands out from what you will see at other restaurants. I believe that when people read menus they look for flavours that that they like, not something that just sounds good. So instead of describing how the food is prepared, our menu simply lists the flavours you will experience in that dish. I believe that you should always return to the flavours that people like and present them beautifully.” Chef Makhi believes in beautiful presentation but not in the old adage that people eat with their eyes first. “I always tell people that it is not true. People eat with their state of mind first. They must be in a good mood – that’s why we have great staff here and Alfie on the piano,” he says in reference to Mont Rochelle’s long standing piano player who goes a long way towards making the dining experience here an unforgettable one. “When you are in a good mood, you have the hope of a great evening ahead, but once that mood is broken, the food will not taste good to you.” He also knows that when it comes to keeping guests happy, flexibility is key. “Sometimes, for example, when I have a vegetarian guest, they might not like the options that we have on the menu. Then I am prepared to go and ask them: ‘what do you like?’ Then I will do my best to prepare something for them that they will enjoy. I don’t want people to be limited to what is offered on the menu. What is written there are things that I have in mind for them, but they might not be what they like.” After working very long hours in the kitchen, Chef Makhi brings all of this passion for food home with him, saying that he never gets sick of standing at the stove. “I believe that you need to be in love with what you work with. I never get sick of the foods I work with; I never get sick of cooking. When I am trying to create new dishes, I even lie in bed late at night still trying to work out how I am going to prepare them and what the presentation will look like. For me, food comes first, everything else follows.” n

August 2012

Feature

The Blue Train

Feature

MeetM

Forget Q, Mister Bond –

The Mercedes-Benz M-Class

Mercedes-Benz is touting its new M-Class as the most technologically advanced SUV ever. Considering its lengthy list of features (standard and optional), striking looks and host of improvements, it may well be true. The new M-class is more efficient, environmentally friendly and luxurious than its predecessors, and the monstrously powerful AMG edition is the stuff of legends. Enjoy, Mister Bond. Text: Nicky Furniss Images: © Mercedes-Benz South Africa

Not content with a mere face-lift, the engineers at Mercedes-Benz have gone out of their way to improve on the third generation M-Class in multiple aspects – from the car’s aesthetics and its size to its fuel economy and safety features. The interior of the M-Class is now 34 mm wider in the front and 25 mm wider in the rear – an increase in size that is barely noticeable from the exterior, but which makes a perceptible difference to the spaciousness of the cabin. Adding to the comfort of the drive are standard electrically adjustable front seats, and new adjustable rear seat backrests. The new M-Class also boasts a substantial reduction in what Mercedes likes to call NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness). The most obvious improvement is in terms of the cabin noise levels – which are now whisper quiet thanks to some innovative insulation measures. Vibration levels have also been reduced thanks to the vehicle’s extremely rigid body shell. These improvements may seem academic at best, but go a long way to ensuring driver wellbeing, which is an essential safety feature, particularly on longer journeys. ‘Going Green’ may be the new eco-friendly catch phrase, but when it comes to the M-Class, it’s not green but blue. The new generation diesel BlueTEC and the BlueEFFICIENCY direct injection petrol models now consume between 23 % and 28 % less fuel than the outgoing models. The ML 250 BlueTEC 4MATIC sips on a frugal 6.5l/100 km while still maintaining an impressive range of 1,500 km on a single 93 l tank. The ML 350 4MATIC boasts a 225 kW V6 petrol engine, but can still lay claim to a conservative combined fuel consumption figure of just 8.8l/ 100 km. And with a monster of a V8 engine (giving 386 kW of power and 700 Nm of torque) the top of the range ML 63 AMG offers impressive CO2 emissions of just 276 g/km. These impressive figures have been achieved through a comprehensive package of Blue EFFICIENCY measures that include friction-optimised bearings, low friction axle drives

August 2012

Feature

and electric steering. And best of all they reduce the vehicle’s impact on the environment without noticeably affecting its performance. We found the ML 250 more than capable during the launch drive and the ML 350 very responsive. Plus it is unlikely that owners of the ML 500 (which produces a staggering 300 kW of power) will have anything to complain about in terms of performance – nor for that matter will those lucky enough to call one of the envy-inducing ML 63 AMGs theirs. While most M-Class owners are unlikely to test the off-road limits of their vehicles much further beyond the concrete jungles of Sandton or the urban mountains of Umhlanga Ridge, we put ours through its paces on a sandy off-road track in the Waterberg and found it more than up to the task. It is unlikely that it will stand up to the abuse of your average Landy, but thanks to its permanent all-wheel drive, electronic traction control and Downhill Speed Regulation (DSR) it can easily tackle your average game reserve dirt track. Outdoorsy owners can also opt for an ON&OFFROAD package which allows for six driving modes (including two special off-road modes) and enhanced AIRMATIC functionality which allows for a maximum ground clearance of 285 mm. As one would expect from Mercedes-Benz, the M-Class boasts an impressive array of both active and passive safety features. These include such innovations as Attention Assist which warns the driver of drowsiness, and a tyre pressure loss warning system, both of which come standard. Blind Spot Assist (which warns the driver when vehicles are detected in the blind spot) and Lane Keeping Assist are available as optional extras. Lane Keeping Assist detects when the driver has unintentionally left a recognised marked lane, and as well as giving the driver a

The Blue Train

warning, it can also react by braking in such a way as to ensure that the vehicle returns to the correct lane. The extremely robust occupant compartment, front and rear crumple zones, seatbelt tensioners and the inclusion of up to nine airbags helps to minimise passenger injury in the event of an accident, after which the car’s Post-Safe functions kick in. These include the automatic activation of the hazard lights, the automatic unlocking of the doors (to allow access by emergency personnel) and the shut down of the fuel system to reduce the risk of fire. All five models (the AMG understandably more than the others) come with a fairly good selection of standard equipment, but as is always the case with German models, there is a long and extensive list of optional extras. These range from the basics such as extra airbags and metallic paint (expect to pay a whopping R18,700 extra if Diamond White catches your fancy), right up to a Harmon Kardon surround sound system and Airmatic air suspension. Most people would balk at having to pay R1,750 for a temperature controlled cup holder, but should it be just the thing to complete your perfect M-Class package, then its nice to know that the option is there. The M-Class’ starting prices are more reasonable than they used to be and are certainly comparable to- if not better than- many of their competitors. Prices start at R683,500 and R778,000 for the ML250 BlueTEC and ML 350 BlueTEC respectively. The petrol version of the ML 350 is priced at R752,000 and the ML 500 at R935,900. The ML 63 AMG rounds off the range at a staggering R1,380,000, but then AMG fans seldom expect a bargain. All models come standard with a MobiloDrive maintenance plan of six-years/120,000 km. n

Accommodation Guide

The Last Word

Constantia

Vibrant indigenous flora and vivid exotic plant life create a serene ambience at The Last Word Constantia, which is a mere 25-minute drive from Cape Town. Situated in the Cape’s oldest and most beautiful wine valley, The Last Word Constantia is close to seven of South Africa’s top wine estates and many internationally celebrated restaurants. This five-star intimate hotel is in an exclusive area just one minute’s drive from the chic Constantia Mall’s fashionable shops and restaurants. An easy approach to freeways gives guests superb access to all the Cape’s scenic delights, from Simonstown and the False Bay beaches to the City Centre, Waterfront and beyond.

Contact

The Last Word Constantia – Cape Town • Call: +27 21 794 6561 • Email: info@thelastword.co.za • Website: www.thelastword.co.za

WiFi

Universal AC

Spa/Pool/Gym

Smoking Rooms

Disabled Access

Room Service

Child Friendly

Guided Drive/Walk

Air-conditioning

Malaria Free

Conference Facilities

The Blue Train

access 25-minute drive from Cape Town

Accommodation Guide

Franschhoek Country House & Villas

This five-star hotel combines local charm with fine dining and pampering, where the best local wines and cuisine come together in an idyllic setting. Situated in the heart of the Franschhoek Valley, much is on offer at the Franschhoek Country House and Villas for guests to enjoy and indulge in. Complemented by the well known Monneaux Restaurant, the hotel is ideally located on the outskirts of the Franschhoek Village, only 1 km from the town’s centre. It is an ideal base to indulge your tastes for fine wines and world-class cuisine. Guests can choose between staying in the original and charming Franschhoek Country House or in one of its many modern and sumptious Villas. Whichever you choose, the accommodation on offer is designed with complete comfort and luxury in mind.

Contact

One hour drive from Cape Town

Franschhoek Country House & Villas– Franschhoek • Call: +27 21 876 3386 • Email: bookings@fch.co.za • Website: www.fch.co.za

WiFi Spa/Pool/Gym

access

Universal AC S/P/G

Smoking Rooms

Disabled Access

Room Service

Child Friendly

Guided Drive/Walk

Air-conditioning

Malaria Free

Conference Facilities

August 2012|

Restaurant Guide

Bosman’s Grande Roche Hotel

An aura of timeless elegance sets the tone for Bosman's Restaurant at the five-star Grande Roche Hotel, where fine dining and attentive service are the order of the day. Situated in the Manor House at the Grande Roche Hotel in the Paarl Winelands, this 70-seater restaurant and terrace has a multitude of awards to its name including being listed as one of the top ten restaurants in South Africa, as well as one of the top 100 restaurants in the world. These richly-deserved accolades are recognition of the superb harmony of flavours and textures that are the hallmark of a truly magnificent dining experience combined with unsurpassable service and spectacular views across the Paarl Valley.

Contact

Bosman's Grande Roche Hotel, Paarl Winelands • Call: +27 21 863 5100 • Email: reserve@granderoche.co.za • Website: www.granderoche.com

The Blue Train

access 50-minute drive from Cape Town

Restaurant Guide

Dutch East Franschhoek

The menu of homely but stylish Dutch East Restaurant is inspired by the seasons, combining local produce with eastern flavours. Dutch East Restaurant serves a variety of simple, eastern-inspired dishes. Head Chef Pasch du Plooy was introduced to eastern ingredients, flavours and combinations at a very young age. Later on he started to incorporate these ingredients into his style of cooking. Techniques like pickling and searing, as well as ingredients such as soy mirin and sesame have become staples in his kitchen. This makes for an eclectic and exciting dining experience in the heart of Franschhoek.

Contact

access One hour drive from Cape Town

Dutch East Restaurant – Franschhoek • Call: +27 21 876 3547 • Email: info@dutcheast.co.za • Website: www.dutcheast.co.za

August 2012

History

In the Tracks of a

Legend The History of The Blue Train

For over half a century, The Blue Train in South Africa has enjoyed an international reputation as one of the world’s pre-eminent travelling experiences. Officially named The Blue Train in 1946, the train’s predecessors trace their history to the 1890s and the discovery of diamonds and gold. Text & Images: © The Blue Train

For the empire builders of old, the unchartered African interior was the landscape of a dream in the making. A dream that would etch its course in parallel lines that snaked their way northward from the Atlantic shoreline, conquering the distance from Cape Town to Cairo. This dream was not to be, as the Great African Railway reached only as far as a bridge across the gorge of the Zambezi River, overlooking the thundering smoke of the Victoria Falls. But in the fading years of the 19th century, the discovery of gold and diamonds drew thousands to the edge of the continent, and those lines of tempered steel began to bear the burden of industry, commerce, and society on the move. Soon, as the moneyed classes made their presence felt, the network added leisure travel to its list of duties, and in the slipstream of leisure came luxury. The Union Limited and the Union Express, ferrying passengers between the mailships of Cape Town harbour and the goldfields of the Witwatersrand, were the standardbearers of steam-powered opulence in the easy-living heyday of the 1920s, boasting everything from card tables to hot and cold water on tap. A coat of royal blue and cream would later give the trains their distinctive livery, and it was from this line, in these shades, that The Blue Train – a “Palace on Wheels” – would ride the rails to legendary status. Withdrawn from service during the dark days of World War Two, extensively refurbished and modernised in the seventies and nineties, The Blue Train went on to define a new era of luxury travel, making the switch from steam to electric and diesel, linking veld to sea, and tradition to progress, with a sense of style, grace, and mesmerising power that have never come close to being matched.

The Blue Train

History

Keeping Up With Technology From the Age of Steam to the Age of the Internet, The Blue Train has kept on track with ever-changing technology. In the process, it has lost none of the charm that anchors it to a bygone era. In its earliest incarnation, as a direct descendant of the Union Limited and Union Express that plied their way between Johannesburg and the Cape coast, The Blue Train thundered down the rails at the command of a mighty steam locomotive. A wisp of romance still lingers from that coal-fired era, clouding the memory of an energy source that proved to be less powerful, less efficient, and far more difficult to maintain than its whisper-quiet replacement. Today, the dual Blue Train sets, differentiated only by their number of suites and the option of a Conference Car that doubles as an Observation Lounge, are hauled by a fleet of diesel or electric locomotives. Whatever the motive, The Blue Train glides through the countryside at a maximum service speed of 90 km/h, ensuring that the noise level of 55 decibels, somewhere between the sound of soft rainfall and normal conversation, is never exceeded. Inter-suite sealing ensures utter privacy for guests. In the world of ever-shrinking boundaries, ever-intensifying demands, rail travel in the grand old tradition has become a luxury in itself. The luxury of time: time to indulge, time to reflect, time to savour sights, sounds, senses and sensations. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll feel it from the moment you step into your suite, transformed by a magical act of alchemy from an elegant, spacious lounge by day, into a sanctuary of comfort and slumber by night. Bringing together cultures and travellers from across the globe, The Blue Train is an exclusive society on the move â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one that will undoubtedly prevail for years to come. n

August 2012|

Train Layout

The Blue Train