The Blue Train | July 2012

www.bluetrainmag.co.za

Complimentary Guest Magazine

July 2012

Angsana Balaclava • Namibia • Midlands Getaways

contents 20 www.bluetrainmag.co.za

Hanlie Kotze Letter from the Executive Manager

Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu Letter from the Editor

News Keeping You Informed

From The Mailbag Passenger Letters and Comments

EVENTS Dates To Diarise

BITS Need To Know

PETITE PERFECTION Angsana Balaclava

BREACH FOR THE SKY The Great Whites of False Bay

THE BEST OF THE BEST The 'Conde Nast' Gold List

DELICIOUS DESTINATIONS Munch Your Way Around the Midlands

FOSTERING TALENT AND DREAMS Dance for All

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Complimentary Guest Magazine

July 2012

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Angsana Balaclava • Namibia • Midlands Getaways

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AFRICAN INSPIRED

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Tony Park

DESERT DRIFTING

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Lodge Hopping in Namibia

WHO NEEDS ROADS?

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Giniel De Villiers

THE ALLURE OF THE UNTAMED

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The Wild Coast

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A CIRCUS PERFORMER

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Chef Grethel Ferreira

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A MOTORING LOVE AFFAIR

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The Porsche 911 Carrera Cabriolet

Destination Listings

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Luxury Accommodation & Dining Guide

IN THE TRACKS OF A LEGEND

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The History of The Blue Train

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SUITE LAYOUT

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Coach Info

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Letter from the Executive Manager Hanlie Kotze Greetings!

On my way to work recently, I was listening to Dr Gustav Gous, a well known speaker and life coach, talking about turning your success into significance. He related how summiting Mount Everest had always been one of his goals and when he finally achieved this, naturally, he experienced a great deal of pride and indeed self-actualisation. Then he asked himself the following questions: “What good has this done for other people? What, if anything, has this achievement contributed to other people’s lives? Was this success truly significant?” The answer was of course a resounding no. His achievement was egocentric rather than altruistic.

Dr Gustav’s point of view is pertinent considering that on 18th July the world marks Mandela Day – an occasion that serves as a call to everybody, both individuals and organisations, to take 67 minutes of their time to support their chosen charities or to serve their communities. After all, the great Madiba gave 67 years of his life fighting for the rights of humanity.

I encourage everyone, not just this month but at every opportunity, to take the time to do more for others than you do for yourself. The Bible sums it up perfectly when it says: “A generous man will prosper; he who refreshes others will himself be refreshed.” In Dr Gustav’s words, let us not only be go-getters, but also go-givers. The significance and reward is greater in that.

Happy Birthday, Madiba!

I cannot end off this message without wishing our beloved Madiba a joyous, fun-filled and blessed 94th birthday! Wow, 94? That is truly a milestone!

Here is wishing you all the love, good health and everlasting blessings that you so truly deserve. From the management and employees of one South African icon to the greatest icon of them all, Happy Birthday! If we could, we would give you another 94 years. We love you Tata (father)!

Hanlie

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Letter from the Editor Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu Momentous occasions are always worth waiting for and on 27th July, the eyes of the world will be firmly fixed on London as the hoisting of the British flag and the lighting of the Olympic cauldron signal the start of the 2012 Summer Olympic Games.

After four years, sports enthusiasts around the world will once again have the opportunity to watch the best of the best battle it out in their respective fields; all vying for that elusive gold medal and that coveted title of the best in the world. More than a decade of meticulous planning on the part of the London Olympic Committee will culminate in a mere two weeks of competition that will hopefully showcase London’s facilities, hospitality and organisational skills to their fullest.

Then there are the 10,500 athletes who will be competing for the chance to honour their countries and themselves in the pursuit of Olympic glory. For many of these athletes, these games represent the zenith of years of dedicated training and unrelenting hard work, not to mention the fulfilment of a lifelong dream.

I think it is their commitment and perseverance to achieve their Olympic goals, which infuses the games with such passion and infectious energy. For two weeks, we watch transfixed and in awe of just what it takes to be able to compete at this level. For me at least, it gives me faith in the human condition and in the ability of all of us – even in the smallest pursuit – to reach our goals and dreams, if we believe wholeheartedly, and strive unrelentingly to that end.

I am also amazed at how the Olympic Games have the ability to unite the world in a common pursuit. Athletes from over 200 nations or territories will be competing in London this year, while millions more will be cheering them on from home. It makes one think just what we are capable of if we all work together. Imagine if we could harness the kind of collaborative energy that exists in the Olympic Games, just how much we could achieve in the world.

It is indeed a lofty goal and one which we may never fully realise, but in the meantime, let us look forward to the start of the world’s greatest sports spectacle and I hope it inspires each one of us to pursue a dream or work towards a goal – no matter how large or small – in our own lives.

Enjoy the read and the ride.

Noeleen

editor@bluetrainmag.co.za

THE BLUE TRAIN www.bluetrain.co.za Pretoria, Gauteng Tel: +27 12 334 8459 Fax: +27 12 334 8464 Cape Town Tel: +27 21 449 2672 Fax: +27 21 449 3338 United Kingdom Tel: +44 1403 243619 Fax: +44 1403 217558 Central Europe Tel: +44 2089 245126 Fax: +44 2089 245126 United States Tel: 001 305 864 4569 Fax: 001 305 675 7693 PUBLISHER Deidre Theron-Loots deidre@africanspiritmedia.co.za African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd PO Box 11273, Hatfield, 0028 Tel: +27 861 THE MAG (843 624) Fax: +27 88 012 346 2367 mail@africanspiritmedia.co.za

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EDITOR Noeleen Maholwana-Sangqu editor@bluetrainmag.co.za MANAGING EDITOR Nicky Furniss nicky@tcbgroup.co.za ADVERTISING SALES Estelle van der Westhuizen +27 84 821 7257 estellevdw@tcbgroup.co.za Nikki de Lange +27 83 415 0339 nikki@tcbgroup.co.za Robyn Shillaw-Botha +27 83 629 8818 Cover Image © Angsana Balaclava DESIGN & LAYOUT Joanne Mc Laren joanne@virtualdavinci.co.za Virtual Da Vinci Creative Room PRINTING Business Print Centre, Pretoria

CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Nicky Furniss, Roy Watts, Nicola Weir, Shamin Chibba/mediaclubsouthafrica.com, Bernard K Hellberg, Nick van der Leek The Blue Train Magazine is published monthly by African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd. Opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd, The Blue Train or any of their clients.

Information has been included in good faith by the publisher and is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. No responsibility can be accepted for errors and omissions. No material (articles or photographs) in this publication may be reproduced, in whole or in part, without specific written permission from the Publisher.

Copyright © 2012. All copyright for material appearing in this magazine belongs to African Spirit Media (Pty) Ltd and/or the individual contributors.

All rights reserved.

news A Prestigious Hat Trick In a major coup, The Blue Train showed once again why it should indeed be on every local and tourist’s itinerary when it was awarded the highly contest 2011 World’s Leading Luxury Train award at the World Travel Awards prize giving ceremony in Doha, Qatar recently.

The Blue Train, which combines the luxury of the world’s leading hotels with the charm of train travel, outshone its competitors and claimed it’s well deserved first spot. It has built an incredible legacy and has now won this award for an impressive three consecutive years.

Since their inception 17 years ago, The World Travel Awards – known as the “Oscars of the Travel Industry” – have become an important measure of excellence in the travel and tourism industry. These prestigious awards aim to stimulate innovation and creativity in the industry; to ensure that travellers receive exceptional value, and to acknowledge the organisations that contribute significantly to the industry.

The Blue Train is now a Heart Save Area Several Blue Train staff recently completed a Heart Saver CPR/AED Course and are now proficient in the necessary knowledge and practical skills to recognise life threatening cardio-pulmonary emergencies on board. This will enable them to respond swiftly and effectively in the event of an emergency.

The staff will be aided by the Samaritan Pad 500P with CPR Advisor, which is a small, portable and easy to use device, which helps to restore a pulse in most heart attack victims. It also aids rescuers by giving precise visual and voice instructions on how to use the device and how to administer effective CPR.

Promoting Excellence The Blue Train Magazine was gratified to receive two awards recently at the 2011 SA Publication Forum Awards, which recognise excellence in the custom publishing field. Publications that receive a score of 75% or above in a particular category are awarded certificates of excellence, and The Blue Train Magazine received certificates of excellence for both Design and Writing.

This serves as a wonderful vote of confidence for the magazine and its team who will continue to strive to improve the publication even further.

The Blue Train Wins Again The Blue Train has proven once more why it is considered the world’s best luxury train by walking away with yet another

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prestigious international award. At the Condé Nast 12th Annual Readers’ Travel Awards held in London in September 2010, The Blue Train was voted as the “Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Favourite Specialist Train”.

The runner-up in the “Specialist Train” category was the Venice Simplon-Orient Express. Other nominations included The Ghan in Australia, the Palace on Wheels in India and The Royal Scotsman.

The Blue Train was the only South African company to win one of the 27 categories – although South Africa did come in ninth in the “Favourite Holiday Destination” category.

“To say that we are delighted with this award would be an understatement! To be nominated alone is such a great achievement, but to win your specific category is enormous!

Credit must go to everyone associated with this brand – our employees, representatives, all our strategic partners and suppliers for their effortless passion and commitment to this “Blue Jewel”. Together, through hard work and dedication, we can achieve much more,” commented Hanlie Kotze, Executive Manager of The Blue Train.

She added: “With a long-standing reputation of South African hospitality, The Blue Train symbolises the very core of luxury train travel. It is exquisitely crafted and appointed to achieve a degree of unequalled luxury to satisfy not only the senses of every guest, but to also touch their souls. This is the very essence of why we are known as a window to the soul of South Africa.”

Business “Unusual” Charters A special tailor-made, all-inclusive charter on The Blue Train is a wonderful way for guests to explore South Africa’s landscapes and landmarks, lasting from a few hours to several nights. From a VIP cocktail breakfast, lunch or dinner, to a business “unusual” conference, a product launch with a difference, a special wedding reception, staff incentives or even a birthday celebration, the experience is up to you.

The Blue Train follows any route, provided the rail networks are compatible to its technology.

For Further Information For more information on The Blue Train’s exciting packages and to read the booking conditions for advance reservations, visit www.bluetrain.co.za or contact The Blue Train reservation office in Pretoria on +27 12 334 8459 or Cape Town on +27 21 449 2672. Email any general enquiries or feedback to info@bluetrain.co.za. n

From the Mail Bag

Passenger Letters & Comments

The meals were outstanding. All of the staff were exceptionally friendly and helpful and the facilities were comfortable and relaxing. I could have travelled an extra day – it was a perfect experience.

Dr N Nicolaou, South Africa Wonderful! Amazing! Excellent service. It was the height of luxury while being exceedingly comfortable.

Ms CRL Leichman, USA The Blue Train is a credit to the tourism industry. I had a wonderful and memorable experience.

Ms M Lekalake, South Africa We had a wonderful time; words cannot describe how we feel. Travelling on The Blue Train is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I will definitely recommend it to others.

Mr C Williams, South Africa Our butler was beyond excellent. It was a perfect experience with very friendly and helpful staff. The trip exceeded our expectations.

Mr & Mrs DA Payne, USA The meals and level of service were outstanding. Thank you for a wonderful experience.

Mr & Mrs Rawson, UK All the staff were very friendly, knowledgeable and helpful. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience. We will definitely recommend it to family and friends.

Mrs JRH Rahmat Hussin, Malaysia A wonderful and enjoyable experience all round. We would have liked one more night on The Blue Train.

Mrs PJ Thomas, UK

Do you have a complaint or comment that you would like to share with us?

Please fill in the guest questionnaire that is available in your suite or alternatively send an email to info@bluetrain.co.za.

Please also feel free to send your photos from your trip on The Blue Train to the same address.

Comments may be edited, shortened or translated from the original language.

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events Breathe, Move, Dance iKapa Dance Theatre is partnering with Johannesburg based musicians, Afropolitan Explosiv, in the emotionally engaging production: Inhale/Exhale. The show will make its debut in The Playhouse Theatre in Durban from 5th to 7th July, before moving to the Guild Theatre in East London from 12th to 14th July, and finally to the Artscape Arena Theatre in Cape Town from 1st to 4th August. Inhale/Exhale combines the artistic and technical excellence of iKapa choreographers, Tanya Arshamian and Theo Ndindwa, with the unique musical talents of Afropolitan Explosiv’s Thokozani Mhlambi and Nobuntu Mqulwana. The production was inspired by how universal stories and life experiences cause an emotional reaction that affects one’s breathing. “The dancers allow multiple emotions to stimulate their breath, which is the inspiration behind their movement,” explains Ndindwa. Tickets are available through admin@ikapadancetheatre.co.za or www.webtickets.co.za. For more information, visit www.ikapadancetheatre.co.za.

An Equestrian-inspired Day Out Horse fans can look forward to the thundering hoofs of polo ponies and the glamour of the equestrian circuit as the Inanda Africa Cup 2012 returns to the Inanda Club in Sandton for yet another riveting display of talented horsemanship. This weekend-long affair will feature an exclusive knockout tournament between invited teams, Nigeria, Ghana, Polo Africa and local South African teams and will take place from 20th to 22nd July. The Sunday (22nd) will be open to the public. Spectators at this year’s event can look forward to an action-packed line-up of equestrian events including the grooms’ race, and the “Thoroughbred vs. Machine” event, as well as an official after party. Tickets for the Inanda Africa Cup are priced from R100 per car and can be purchased at the gate. For more information, visit www.inandaclub.co.za.

Wine and Whales

Pic © Peter Chadwick

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The first whales of the year have already arrived off De Hoop Nature and Marine Reserve in the Western Cape and in the coming months, the reserve will host spectacular displays as more than 40 % of the world’s Southern Right whales come into the bay to mate and calve. From 27th to 29th July, guests can enjoy a weekend of wine tasting and whale watching. On the Saturday, guests are invited to sample the vineyard produce of the various participating estates (including Black Oyster Catcher and Zoetendal), accompanied by music by Malané Hofmeyr-Burger and her string and flute ensemble. This will be followed by sunset canapés and a sumptuous dinner. On the Sunday morning, guests can enjoy an interpretative marine walk with leading whale authority, Wilfred Chivel. Reservations can be made by emailing res@dehoopcollection.co.za.

Visit www.dehoopcollection.co.za for more information.

events Painting the Town Red, White and Blue The Franschhoek Wine Valley will be hosting its annual Bastille Festival from 14th to 15th July, in a celebration of the Valley’s centuries-old French Huguenot heritage. Visitors to this year’s festival will have the chance to meet ten winemakers from the Rhône-Alpes Region in France, who will be showcasing some of their finest wines. These will be available for tasting at two wine tastings, as well as in a specially demarcated VIP marquee. Tickets to the VIP marquee include a wide selection of wine tastings, as well as a delicious platter of French-inspired food. Visitors can look forward to more delicious cuisine in The Food and Wine Marquee, as well as a host of other festival attractions, such as the Franschhoek minstrel parade and a barrel-rolling contest. The Screening Room at Le Quartier Français will also be screening French movies throughout the weekend. Tickets are available from www.webtickets.co.za. For more information, visit www.franschhoekbastille.co.za.

It’s an Eighties Revival Gauteng’s Emperors Palace will play host to iconic eighties superstars OMD (Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark) on 4th and 5th August. With more than 33 years behind them, this British symphony-pop group has sold millions of albums and had a string of chart topping hits including ‘Electricity’,’ Seven Seas’, and ‘If You Leave’. OMD reformed in 2007 and have toured consistently since then to great critical and audience acclaim. With a new album on the way and live performances scheduled around the globe, OMD continue to delight and entertain audiences around the world. OMD tickets start from R150 per person and can be booked through the Emperors Palace Box Office on +27 11 928 1297/1213 or through www.emperospalace.com. Tickets are also available through Computicket at www.computicket.com.

Cape Concerts Leading musicians will once again grace the stage at the annual Nederburg Concert Series – a series of monthly concerts that will run until December at the Nederburg Manor House in the Western Cape. South African pianist Mark Nixon will be performing transcriptions for the piano by Franz Liszt on 29th July, while the recital on 26th August will feature leading South African classical guitarist James Grace. To mark Women’s Month, his repertoire will be dedicated to a celebration of women. For the second year in a row, the September recital will feature some of South Africa’s leading young classical musicians. This year’s winner of the ATKV-Musiqanto Song Competition will be joined on 30th September by other celebrated young professionals. Tickets are R170 per person and include drinks on arrival, as well as delicious light supper snacks served with fine Nederburg wines after the concert. Bookings can be made by emailing concerts@distell.co.za or ialbers@distell.co.za.

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bits Natural Selection Shimansky’s latest jewellery range, the Organic Collection, draws its inspiration from nature and its organic shapes. The collection includes extraordinary rings, earrings and pendants, crafted in 18K white gold and made using round brilliant cut diamonds and rare rose cut diamonds, as well as an array of natural and fancy coloured diamonds. Rose cut diamonds, which were previously seen almost exclusively in rare antique pieces, are becoming increasingly popular again. The basic rose cut has a flat base with a crown composed of triangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. They are usually circular in outline. This fascinating collection is priced for all jewellery lovers with each piece crafted to express the wearer’s individual personality. The full collection is available exclusively at Shimansky V&A Waterfront, and the newly revamped Clock Tower store. For more information, visit www.shimansky.com.

Leave Your Troubles at the Door Cayenne Spa is a popular sanctuary for both local and international visitors thanks to its modern aura and eclectic menu of treatments – all of which are tailored to soothe the senses and orchestrate complete physical, mental and spiritual wellbeing. An absolute must is to experience the spa’s signature ‘Intonga Stick Massage’ treatment, which is a unique, full body massage performed with wooden, African intonga sticks. Other luxurious treatments include full body wellness wraps, body exfoliations, massages and facials. The spa also features a sauna, swimming pool and a fully equipped gym with spectacular views of Cape Town and Table Mountain.

Cayenne Spa is located in Pepperclub Hotel & Spa in Loop Street, Cape Town. Contact +27 21 812 8812 for more information.

A Soup-er Day Out Constantia Glen boutique wine estate is making the most of the chilly weather by serving up a tempting selection of delicious, homemade soups, served with freshly baked baguettes and rooibos smoked butter for its guests to enjoy. Visitors to the Constantia Glen tasting room can indulge in hearty winter soups, or tuck into a trio of smaller soup servings to get a taste of the three delicious varieties on offering. Each soup can be perfectly paired with Constantia Glen wines and enjoyed with mouthwatering platters of cheese and charcuterie. Known for its award winning cool climate Sauvignon Blanc and Bordeaux-style reds, Constantia Glen Three and Constantia Glen Five, the wine estate is open daily from 10h00 until 17h00 on weekdays and from 10h00 until 16h00 on weekends.

Contact +27 21 795 5639, email wine@constantiaglen.co.za, or visit www.constantiaglen.com for more information.

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bits An International Feast of Flavours Executive Chef Cheyne Morrisby is serving up a new menu infused with the exotic flavours of the orient this winter at the Franschhoek Kitchen at Holden Manz Wine Estate. Paired perfectly with signature wines from Holden Manz, Cheyne’s winter dishes offer guests a multitude of choices for a memorable feast with an international flavour. To start, tuck into Keralan spiced squid, served with green chilli puree, miso mayo and lotus root crisps; followed by Cheyne’s signature duck breast (best enjoyed with the silky taste of Holden Manz Merlot 2010) or succulent pork belly for mains. To end, guests can look forward to decadent 70 % cocoa bean Belgian chocolate mousse with salted caramel, among other indulgences. The Franschhoek Kitchen is open for lunch and dinner from Tuesdays to Saturdays, and Sundays for lunch. Contact +27 21 876 2729 or email wayne@holdenmanz.com for reservations.

The Best of Both Worlds As winter hits its full stride, this is the perfect time of year to try Boland Cellar’s Cappupinoccinotage. This full-bodied Pinotage captures the quintessential earthiness and sweet red berry flavours of South Africa’s indigenous cultivar as well as delivering seductive notes of mocha and ground coffee. Winemaker Bernard Smuts showcases his awardwinning winemaking and blending skills by retaining the inherent fruity attractiveness of Pinotage while capturing its seductive coffee and chocolate undertones through skilful oaking. The Cappupinoccinotage is available from leading supermarkets and liquor outlets nationwide. For more information on Boland Cellar, visit www.bolandcellar.co.za.

One to Watch Ten years after creating a watch inspired by the dashboard gauges of sports cars, Porsche Design has released the next-generation Porsche Design Dashboard timepiece, which boasts a purist dial, Arabic numerals and hands filled with luminescent material that combine to make a bold statement. The case and strap are made of lightweight titanium and the case is water-resistant to a depth of 100 m (10 atm). Titanium is commonly used in the aerospace industry because it is harder than steel, but only half the weight; does not rust and is anti-magnetic. The new generation of Dashboard chronographs is available in 12 variations. The P6620 Dashboard includes models with a white dial, a gold case, or with calf leather or caoutchouc straps. The entry-level models of the Porsche Design P6620 Dashboard with a titanium or black links bracelet are available from Porsche Design in Hyde Park Corner. Contact +27 11 325 5706 for more information.

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Travel

Petite

Perfection

Angsana Balaclava

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Travel

Mauritius is an island that is blessed with postcard perfect beaches, swaying palm trees and impossibly blue seas. It makes little difference where you choose to lay your beach towel, for you are guaranteed of picturesque surroundings, more often than not topped off with warm island hospitality.

So when you simply cannot go wrong in terms of location, just how do you decide between all of the island’s superb five-star accommodation options? For me, the choice is simple – I prefer to be a name in an intimate boutique hotel, as opposed to just another number in an expansive resort. I like the option of being able to turn to nature, or to a worldclass spa for my relaxation needs, and I like to know that the place that I choose to stay does all that it can to protect the environment surrounding it. The newly launched Angsana Balaclava ticks all of these boxes and many more.

Text: Nicky Furniss Images: © Angsana Balaclava

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Travel

Located in the sheltered curve of Turtle Bay on Mauritius’ north-west coast, Angsana Balaclava is positively petite in comparison to the massive resorts that sprawl up the coastline to the north of it. But petite is perfect when you are looking for a quiet retreat and the essence of personalised service.

From the moment you arrive, the ever-friendly staff make a point of greeting you by name at every encounter, ensuring that you immediately feel welcome, valued and truly at home.

And with only 52 suites (including a palatial beachfront Imperial Villa), Angsana Balaclava is small enough to truly be a home away from home. That is not to say though, that any expense has been spared in the appointment of each of the hotel’s suites. Divided into Garden Suites, Spa Suites and Beachfront Suites, each accommodation class offers its own ambience and attractions.

The Suite Life The Garden Suites overlook the hotel’s pool (perfect for early morning laps) as well as the hotel’s centrepiece saltwater lagoon complete with its own beach. This calm pool is ideal for families with small children who can play on the sand or splash in the shallows.

The 21 Spa Suites add an extra element of luxury by each boasting their own private plunge pool. Situated just in front of the hotel’s award winning Spa, guests in these suites are also perfectly placed to make the most of its hydrotherapy area, gym and of course the many signature treatments that are on offer. In fact, as part of their board, guests staying in the Spa Suites are entitled to a complimentary 90-minute treatment for each full day of their stay.

A SPArkling Getaway The Angsana brand is well known worldwide for its superb spas and Angsana Balaclava is no exception. The soothing fragrance of naturally squeezed essential oils, the gentle sounds of calming music, and the professional and warm touch of the resident therapists – all of whom have undergone extensive training at The Banyan Tree Spa Academy in Thailand – combine to make guests feel comfortable and truly relaxed.

The Spa favours the use of natural products and many of the body treatments are made daily from locally grown ingredients, such as ginger, frangipani, lemongrass and coconut. These are

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used in many of the Spa’s extensive list of treatments, from body polishes and massages to facials and hand and foot treatments, which take place in the calming oasis of the Spa’s comfortable pavilions. And when not enjoying a treatment, guests are welcome to relax with a healthy smoothie or a cup of herbal tea and soak in the pretty surroundings of island life.

The Best of the Beach One of the best places to truly make the most of the hotel’s natural surroundings is in one of its 12 sea-facing Beachfront Suites. These suites offer the best views in the hotel and guests need only open their curtains to soak in the view of the sea gently lapping the beach in front of them. Guests in these rooms have the benefit of not only their own plunge pools, but also their own Jacuzzis. They are also literally just a few steps away from Angsana Balaclava’s secluded private beach. Here, guests can choose a spot under a thatched umbrella and while away the day catching some sun, reading a book or watching the ships on the horizon chug slowly towards the capital city of Port Louis just down the coast.

Waiters are always on hand to offer a refreshing drink and the hotel’s resident recreation staff are also ever present and happy to assist guests with glass-bottom boat rides, snorkelling trips, sailing and windsurfing lessons, as well as water skiing. The hotel can also arrange game fishing trips and while it is not offered in house, they can also assist with putting interested scuba divers in touch with local dive operators. The bustling tourist town of Grand Baie is a short drive away and many of the island’s top diving sites (including wrecks and coral reefs teeming with fish and encrusted with a kaleidoscope of coral) can be found here.

While each of the suite categories have their own enticements, all boast king-sized beds draped in luxurious linens, satellite TVs, oversized bathrooms with deep baths and power showers, tea and coffee making stations and balconies from which to enjoy the view of either the ocean or the hotel’s pretty landscaped gardens.

Five-star Cuisine All guests at Angsana Balaclava are also thoroughly spoilt with some of the island’s finest cuisine. Breakfast is a lavish buffet affair,

Travel

complemented by a large variety of delicious cooked breakfasts, and the lunch menu is full of light but tasty options. But the romantic candle-lit dinners are undoubtedly the highlight of the hotel’s dining experience. The cuisine here has a strong Asian influence and, under the expert guidance of the hotel’s Balinese Head Chef, it always serves to surprise and delight – from the smallest amusebouche, and the perfectly conceived and portioned main course to the kind of innovative and decadent dessert that has diners closing their eyes and savouring it in rapture.

Superbly Sustainable As well as ensuring that their guests’ every comfort is catered for, the hotel (and indeed the entire Banyan Tree Group to which Angsana Balaclava belongs) prides itself on sustainable development and the preservation and restoration of the beautiful location it finds itself in. Angsana Balaclava’s Chief Engineer, Satyadev Poonith, explains that right from the hotel’s initial planning and building stages, environmentally sustainable practises have been implemented at every turn. Many of the hotel’s buildings were constructed out of local recycled volcanic rock. Not only has each guest suite been designed so that the lights and television only operate when the guest’s key card is used, but the air conditioning system will also only work when all of the exterior doors are closed. This, as well as the use of energy-saving bulbs and solar-heated geysers, ensures a huge saving in electricity usage.

The hotel also recycles its greyscale water for irrigation purposes, the kitchen composts all of its waste, and the hotel’s many pools use salt ionisers which produce synthetic chlorine as opposed to the traditional and environmentally dubious chemical version. To combat the issue of the island’s ongoing water shortages, Angsana Balaclava also has its own small-scale desalination plant and water reservoir.

As well as ensuring their own sustainability, Angsana Balaclava will also run its own CSR initiatives, which will be both community and environmentally focused. Mr Pascal Prigent, Angsana Balaclava’s General Manager, explains that as the hotel is still in its infancy (it only opened in December 2011), its management team are still identifying possible projects where

they can become involved. They are, however, very keen to contribute to marine conservation in Turtle Bay through the reintroduction of corals and fish to the more damaged areas of the coastline. They also hope to involve local schoolchildren in the project and hopefully educate them about the importance of conservation at the same time. Every guest at Angsana Balaclava has the opportunity to support these very worthwhile projects by donating a small amount to the hotel group’s Green Imperative Fund where every amount donated will in turn be matched by the hotel group itself.

Yes, Angsana Balaclava certainly ticks a lot of boxes. Not only does it promise its guests the utmost in personalised and efficient service, luxury, pampering and relaxation, but it does so with both the environment and the local community in mind.

This may be Mauritius’ smallest five-star establishment, but what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for with picturesque boutique appeal, attention to detail and a whole lot of heart.

For more information, visit www.angsana.com/en/balaclava/ n

Special Reader Offer Spend seven nights at the luxurious five-star Angsana Balaclava Mauritius from R15,140 per person sharing, plus taxes of approximately R2,925 (departing from Johannesburg) in conjunction with Holiday Tours and the Air Mauritius Travel Smart Program. Valid from 1st July to 27th September 2012, the package includes: • Return economy class flights to Mauritius • Private return transfers • Seven nights accommodation in a Garden Suite at Angsana Balaclava • Breakfast and dinner daily • Complimentary non-motorised water sports • All pre-payable airport taxes and current fuel levies The package price includes two free nights on half board basis as well as a 15 % early booking discount for bookings made 45 days prior to arrival at the resort. A shoulder season airfare supplement of R720 per person applies for travel from 1st to 15th July 2012.

For bookings and more information, contact +27 11 289 8000 or email main@holidaytours.co.za.

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Breach for the Sky The Great Whites of False Bay

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Feature

The Great White sharks of False Bay have developed a unique form of breach predation which allows them to hurtle out of the sea with awesome savagery. With the world record length for one of these beasts standing at well over six metres, and with weights ranging from one to two tons, watching these giants of the sea in action is more dramatic than anything Hollywood could conjure up.

Text: Roy Watts Images: © Chris Fallows

There is a palpably nervous urgency among the various packs of Cape Fur seals, as they head from the sanctity of Seal Island to their fishing grounds. This is in sharp contrast to the prevailing tranquillity in Cape Town’s False Bay on a fine winter’s morning. On the surface, all is calm until, suddenly, a finned torpedo explodes out of the deep, and in a furious arc barrels back into the sea with a seal clenched in its razoredged trap of a mouth. Welcome to the world of Carcharodon Carcharias, or ‘Great White’ to his friends.

Chris Fallows, a Cape Town conservationist and wildlife photographer, has developed a unique decoy dragging system that has these gargantuan beasts leaping out of the water almost on demand, creating the most spectacular photographic opportunities. He tows a piece of carpet in the shape of a seal behind his boat at a certain speed and in a specific direction, while photographers aim their cameras at the decoy and wait for a trailing shark to burst out of the water at 30 km/h and into their viewfinders. Each day in winter, Chris sets forth on eco-tours from the Simonstown harbour in his boat White Pointer 2, and frequently plays host to dedicated scientists and documentary film makers like those from National Geographic and Discovery.

Lying just 5 km offshore is the barren pile of rocks that is Seal Island. An assortment of features has combined to produce the unique shark breaching phenomenon that is often seen here during winter. Firstly, there is the seal population itself, which numbers some 45,000 animals that are literally hunched shoulder to shoulder along the 450 m length of the island. Add to this, a south-western seaboard that drops sharply to a depth of 25 m, which provides a launching pad for the stalking sharks below. They need depth for camouflage, and the distance to build up sufficient breaching speed. Then there are the migratory habits of the Yellowtail, Steenbrass and other species that are the Great White’s summer staple, which move away from the Cape waters in winter. Finally, there is the seals’ need for sustenance that drives them through a gauntlet of death known as the ‘Ring of Peril’, to their fishing grounds further out to sea.

With these exclusive factors in place, the resident shark population has adapted its winter feeding modus operandi around a dynamic breaching technique. This activity almost

A unique combination of factors, including the topography of the seaboard, allows the Great White sharks in False Bay to breach in spectacular displays and to do so more often here than anywhere else in the world

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Cape Fur seals are a Great White shark’s favourite winter feast and the waters around Seal Island make for ideal hunting grounds

ceases in summer when their natural diet of fish return – which is why the occupants of Seal Island celebrate thanksgiving in September. Although this form of predation also occurs at the Farralon Islands off San Francisco, and in South Africa at Mossel Bay and Dyer Island, it is the sheer regularity and intensity of the attacks that occur on a daily basis in False Bay that makes this the world’s Great White Mecca.

Seals believe that there is safety in numbers, and for good reason. Twisting, ducking and diving, they leave and return to the island in tight groups known as ‘rafts’. The stalking Great Whites find it difficult to zero in on a specific target, and therefore tend to focus on animals swimming away from the pack.

It is dusk, and a lone pup that has not yet learnt the penalties of rugged individualism, is heading homeward slightly behind her comrades. From the depths she is being tracked by a silent, aerodynamically perfect killer, with millions of years of evolution and survival in its genes. Too late, she recognises the impending danger in the swiftly approaching shadow, and is blasted out of the water impaled on the teeth of those terrible jaws. In a split second, a traumatic finale replaces the loneliness of the long distance swimmer, as hunter and prey cascade back into the sea in a maelstrom of spray.

With success rates ranging between 50 and 80 %, missed opportunities seldom result in second chances. Lucky escapees seek refuge by swimming just behind the monstrous mouth and engaging in a cat and mouse contest of athleticism versus the need to breathe. Very often, the shark will simply abandon a second attempt, unless the intended victim was badly wounded on the initial breach. The island is full of animals bearing the scars of close encounters, and it is surprising to see how these animals survive seemingly fatal injuries.

Having been lucky enough to enjoy several of Fallows’ eco tours, the spectacular Great White sharks of False Bay are a permanent source of fascination for me. n

Useful Information To book your own tour with Apex Shark Expeditions, contact +27 21 788 1863 or +27 82 364 2738 or visit www.apexpredators.com for more information. All of the images used in this article are included in the spectacular book Great White and Eminent Grey by Chris Fallows.

The Chumming Controversy The recent Great White attack on body boarder David Lilianveld has brought the issue of chumming (using bait to attract sharks) into the spotlight again. A crew filming the documentary Shark Men in False Bay at the time, were accused of dumping five tons of chum into the bay.

However, the team of scientists monitoring the expedition has categorically denied this, saying that only 24 kg of sardines were dumped three days before the attack some 26 km away.

This fact was verified by senior state veterinarian Dr Pieter Koen, the man responsible for monitoring the use of chum.

Quite a few Great Whites have been satellite tagged, and their movements monitored. This tracking research has shown that they repeatedly visit Kogel Bay where the attack occurred.

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Travel

Best

The Best of the

The Conde Nast Gold List

The Conde Nast Gold List is widely regarded as the definitive list of the world’s best hotels.

In the 2012 list, the South African hotel and hospitality industry was very well represented with three local establishments making the cut.

Text: Nicola Weir Images: © Bushman’s Kloof, Le Quartier Francais, Singita Sabi

The annual Gold List, now in its ninth year, is published by well known travel magazine Conde Nast Traveller. Every year their team of editors, writers and hotel experts compile the list based on properties that have been tried and tested for their service, location, food, rooms, leisure facilities, ambience and decor. In an interview on Conde Nast Traveller’s website, the list’s editor, Peter Browne, explains how their selection process has progressed over the years. “Hotel design has improved immeasurably over the years to the point where, at a certain level, good looks have become commonplace. But no matter how handsome, how cleverly put together, the true test of any hotel is its staff. A good hotelier will strive to get the balance right so that anyone who walks into the building will immediately feel welcome, special and taken care of. That’s the essence of luxury,” says Browne.

Browne also commented that the latest trend spotted in this year’s selection process is the provision of techno-amenities. “Keeping up with technology is pretty much an ongoing process in all hotels and it won’t be long before televisions imbedded in bathroom mirrors will be considered old hat. I love all the gizmos, but most of all I like a simple, central console to turn off all the lights. Anything that makes life easier when you are away from home gets my vote.”

It seems though, that when it comes to garnering votes, South Africa Bushman’s Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat was applauded for its superb contemporary Cape cuisine

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Franschhoek’s Le Quartier Francais was also awarded in the “Best Hotels for Food” category and was described as the “El Bulli of Africa” by Gold List contributor Harriet O’Brien

knows how to make an impression. When asked which country Browne considered to be renowned for good service, his answer was: “Asia, generally, but Mauritius is also outstanding and the Seychelles has come along in leaps and bounds. The boutique safari camps of South Africa are also of a very high standard.” And who, may you ask, is he referring to?

Not one, but three South African hotels were voted onto Conde Nast Traveller’s 2012 Gold List. Le Quartier Francais in Franschhoek and Bushman’s Kloof in the Western Cape made it onto the list under the “Best Hotels for Food” category while Singita Sabi Sand in the Kruger National Park fell into the category of “Best Hotels for Service”.

Bushman’s Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat is located at the foothills of the Cederberg Mountains just 270 km from Cape Town and provides luxury accommodation as well as a ‘homestead’ lodge with all the trimmings. In Browne’s opinion, what sets Bushman’s Kloof’s cuisine apart from the rest is the menu conceptualised by its head chef, Floris Smith, who brings contemporary Cape cuisine to all the culinary aspects at the lodge. The cuisine celebrates the Cape Floral Region and the botanical diversity of Bushman’s Kloof with a selection of signature dishes that include fynbos plants and rooibos as ingredients.

At Le Quartier Francais, the x-factor for the Conde Nast team was definitely the food. “It takes quite some panache to be regarded as the best restaurant in the acknowledged gourmet capital of South Africa,” said Gold List contributor Harriet O’Brien. “But Margot Janse’s dishes are at once innovative, theatrical and exquisite. This is the El Bulli of Africa.” Le Quartier Français is a boutique hotel situated in the heart of the Franschhoek Valley. A complete gastronomic journey can be experienced at Le Quartier Français. Sticky buns for breakfast, WOW-bites on The Common Room terrace and South African inspired cuisine in the award winning Tasting Room. It is the extraordinary staff, the opulently comfortable rooms and the

Travel

Singita Sabi Sand, located in the Kruger National Park, was recognised for its superb standards of service, which Gold List editor Peter Browne says should set the benchmark for all other safari lodges in Africa

attention to detail that ensure that this Relais & Chateaux property is the ultimate in being spoilt.

Singita Sabi Sand, situated in the Kruger National Park, was recognised on the Gold List for its excellent service. It also offers the ultimate in safari luxury on prime game viewing land with a formidable concentration of big game and frequent leopard sightings. Guests can choose between three unfenced lodges, infused with the glamour and elegance of Singita. Singita Ebony Lodge offers 12 suites, all with their own en suite bathroom, outside shower, heated private swimming pool and doublesided fireplace. The thatched suites are styled with an eclectic mix of colours, fabrics and textures. The main lodge has lounge and timber deck dining areas overlooking the Sand River, a bar area and a gymnasium, health spa, library and wine cellar.

The activities available such as twice daily game drives with professional guides and trackers, guided safari walks on request, mountain biking and archery complete this luxury offering. It was the flawless service from staff, however, that caught Conde Nast’s attention. “Put simply, the Singita brand sets the service standard for safari lodges in Africa,” concluded Peter Browne. n

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Delicious

Destinations

Munch Your Way Around the Midlands

Thanks to the exceptional culinary skills of a couple of world class chefs, the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands is well on its way to becoming one of South Africa’s great foodie destinations.

Add to that some of the most beautiful scenery in the country, and a trip to the Midlands is guaranteed to be simply delicious.

Text: Nicky Furniss Images: Š Hartford House & Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse

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Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse Richard Poynton, the owner and head chef of Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse, likes to say that staying at Cleopatra’s is the closest that you can get to this part of the Drakensberg, as the property is now bordered on most sides by the uKhahlamba Drakensberg World Heritage Site. Indeed, when you arrive at this charming little getaway at the end of a country road, and look up to see the dramatic folds of the Kamberg Mountains, you cannot help thinking that you are in the heart of this beautiful region.

Speaking of heart, Cleopatra’s has it in spades, from the charming rooms (many with toe-warming fireplaces which are most welcome on chilly winter evenings) and the pretty gardens to the resident dogs, who are always keen to act as walking guides in the surrounding hills. It continues in the main lounge with its inviting sofas, welcoming hearth and fascinating bric-a-brac that just begs to be touched and pondered over.

A wooden deck juts out over a tranquil trout dam, complete with comfy chairs that look out over the water and towards the magnificent backdrop of the mountains. This is the perfect spot to lose yourself in the pages of a book, or just drink in Cleopatra’s unrivalled view while indulging in a delicious afternoon tea of gooey homemade chocolate cake and scones like Gran used to make them.

The library and main dining room also make the most of the property’s stunning views, and you are unlikely to find a more beautiful setting in which to enjoy some of the best fine dining in the country. If Cleopatra’s is all heart, then Richard’s

food is well and truly from where it all originates.

Richard’s culinary philosophy is quite simply: “Flavour, flavour, flavour.” And that is just what you will get, with liberal lashings of plate-licking sauces (Richard’s specialty) and lots of interesting flavour combinations. Many of the vegetables and herbs that are used in the kitchen come freshly picked, either from Cleopatra’s veggie garden, or from Richard’s personal and expansive potager. The eggs come from the resident hens and Richard is also not afraid to use cream and butter when called for – and you can definitely taste the difference.

Cleopatra’s is certainly not the place to come for “diet food”, but one of their sumptuous seven course dinners certainly promises to take you on a culinary journey. You are guaranteed to try things you may never otherwise have ordered, and will most likely come away loving it all. Every good journey starts with an exciting dose of anticipation, and the staff here are masterful storytellers. So much so, that by the end of the pre-dinner menu elaboration, your mouth is salivating and your taste buds are desperate to get stuck in. The end result, however, is well worth the wait.

This includes the three course breakfast offering, which comprises old favourites as well as unexpected, but tasty newcomers. It is the perfect start to a day of exploring the Midlands Meander, traipsing through the hills of the nearby Highmoor Nature Reserve, or trying your hand at a little trout fishing. That said, it is also perfectly acceptable to just claim a spot on the deck and look at the view until it is time to eat again.

For more information, visit www.cleomountain.com.

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Hartford House There is something comforting about waking up to the sound of whinnying horses and the smell of freshly mown grass. Perhaps because it conjures up childhood memories of days spent playing outside, and the excitement of farm visits.

But Summerhill Estate is anything but a normal farm. In fact, it is one of the country’s leading stud farms, and the horses here are world class thoroughbreds more accustomed to the speed of the race track than the amble of a farm road walk. So renowned is Summerhill that the ruling family of Dubai have chosen to stable their priceless race horses here.

This certainly adds an aura of mystique to a stay at Hartford House, mixed with the kind of warm, unpretentious hospitality that the Midlands has become known for. Hartford House itself has played host to friends and acquaintances since it was first built as a family home in 1875. Nowadays guests are still welcomed as part of the family, although the accommodation options have expanded somewhat over the intervening decades.

Visitors now have a choice of colonial style rooms that take their cue from the architecture of the manor house itself, or for something completely different, they can elect to stay in one of the four Ezulweni (‘in the heavens’) rooms. These were built by local artisans using materials harvested from the estate or acquired nearby. Each has its own distinct flavour, but what is common to all four is their superb workmanship, as well as the breathtaking view of the adjacent trout lake and the rolling paddocks beyond it.

Visitors who can bear to leave the comfort of their rooms have much to keep them busy, from history and stud farm tours to walks and wellness treatments. But without a doubt,

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one of the main activities at Hartford – and one which deserves a fair amount of time and attention – is simply savouring its superb culinary offerings.

Executive Chef Jackie Cameron has spent the past nine years honing her craft and Hartford’s culinary reputation to such an extent that the restaurant here has gone from a virtual unknown to being listed as one of the top ten restaurants in KwaZulu-Natal, and then to being a regular finalist in national restaurant awards. Sitting down to one of Jackie’s cleverly conceived and perfectly executed five course set dinners, it is not hard to see why.

During her time at Hartford, Jackie has travelled overseas no less than 16 times, mostly to experience the cooking of other world class chefs, and these international influences are evident in everything that her stellar team produce. A recent trip to Denmark influenced much of the meal we experienced and in particular, our caramelised onion soup was a complete sensory experience – particularly as we had the pleasure of pouring our own portions, so that as well as the textures and flavours of the dish, we could also fully enjoy its amazing aromas.

Breakfast is a slightly more relaxed affair, but no less tantalising, and it serves as a wonderful showcase of some of the best of what the Midlands has to offer, from delicious local cheeses to locally caught trout, and homemade jams and preserves.

Under Jackie’s expert eye, Hartford House has become one of the country’s top food destinations. But unlike many of its contemporaries, it comes complete with so much more – a wonderful setting, unique accommodation options, a friendly welcome and that ever present sound of the clip-clopping hooves of magnificent horses.

For more information, visit www.hartford.co.za. n

Feature

Dreams Fostering Talent and Dance for All

Albert Einstein famously referred to dancers as “Athletes of God”, and the legendary American choreographer Martha Graham believed dance was the soul’s hidden language. Inspired by these ideas, Philip Boyd established Dance for All, a non-profit organisation that introduces children from previously underprivileged backgrounds to dancing.

Text: Shamin Chibba/mediaclubsouthafrica.com Images: © Robin Elam-Rye, Lenore Cairncross, Dawn Deeks, Annie Colbeck, Pat Bromilow-Downing

21 years ago, Boyd – who at the time was a principal dancer with what is now the Cape Town City Ballet – noticed that the South African ballet scene was devoid of black performers.

Inspired to change this situation, he gathered 34 children in a classroom in Gugulethu Township in the Western Cape and began teaching them the basics of dance; establishing what was then called Ballet for All. The name changed to Dance for All (DFA) after the organisation started incorporating other disciplines of dance such as African, Jazz, contemporary dance and hip hop. Today, DFA trains almost 1,000 children and young adults, between the ages of five and 21, from the region’s underprivileged communities.

The DFA Difference What distinguishes DFA from most other dance schools is the outreach programmes it runs in various communities around Cape Town. Instructors provide free tuition in school classrooms

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and community halls in townships such as Gugulethu, Nyanga, Langa and Khayelitsha, as well as the furtherflung areas of Barrydale, Montagu and Zolani. Their main studio, however, is in Athlone in the Cape Flats, where the organisation’s most talented students study. “It is where the serious training takes place,” says Boyd.

Together with his late wife, the renowned Prima Ballerina Assoluta Phyllis Spira, Boyd was able to grow the project into a school that has become a springboard for many professional dancers.

Noluyanda Mqulwana, a cast member in The Lion King’s Singapore chapter last year, was invited to participate in the show for its German leg this year, while Xola Putye is a senior soloist with the Cape Town City Ballet. Thirteenyear-old Siphe November has been sponsored to continue his training at the Canadian National Ballet School in Toronto; and former DFA student, Theo Ndindwa, danced professionally in the UK for six years before returning to South Africa to start his own professional dance company, iKapa Dance Theatre.

Keeping Kids off the Streets When speaking of the benefits that DFA provides, Boyd says that the students learn to become focused and disciplined and that being part of the school helps to keep them away from possible exposure to destructive behaviour.

“It gets the kids off the streets and with that, they receive good training,” he explains.

There are five programmes within DFA. The Cape Town Outreach Programme takes dance to township schools. Under the tutelage of former DFA trainee Hope

Nongqongqo, more than 300 children are given the opportunity to learn ballet, African and contemporary dance in the daily classes.

Other programmes include the Rural Outreach Programme; the InSPIRAtions Youth Company, whose

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Feature

members are hired for performances, corporate or private functions, and television commercials; the Specialised Dance Programme, which selects the most talented dancers from the Cape Town Outreach Programme; and the Bridging Programme, which helps to fill the gap between dance student and professional.

Despite DFA’s incredible success, maintaining the project still remains a struggle financially. According to Boyd, the cost of running the school can go up to R4 million (approximately $480,900) a year and for an NPO, such funds are hard to obtain.

Despite this however, the efforts of Boyd and his team of instructors have culminated in what will be one of DFA’s biggest tours yet: the Mzansi Cymru Torchbearers concert in Cardiff, Wales.

Collaboration with Welsh Performers Eleven dancers from InSPIRAtions will collaborate with Welsh performers for two shows at the Wales Millennium Centre on 20th and 21st July.

One of those taking part is Nathan Baartman of Eersterivier in Cape Town. He initially started as a hip hop dancer when he was 17 but took up ballet when, just over a year ago, he felt the need to broaden his knowledge of dance. “I went to a factory that makes ballet shoes and

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other equipment and a lady there advised me to take up ballet with DFA,” he says.

The shy 20-year-old uses dance as a medium to express himself. “It’s a way of setting myself and my audience free. It’s an international language we can all understand,” he says. Baartman feels that being a part of DFA has also helped him to discover just what he is capable of achieving.

“The teaching [at DFA] has been phenomenal. They never break you down. They are all about building you up.” His trip to Wales will be his first major performance as a ballet dancer and he believes he is more than ready for it.

Members of the Zip Zap Circus School, the Fezeka Choir and Amampondo, all of which hail from Cape Town, will also take part in the concert. Mzansi Cymru Torchbearers is an arts project spearheaded by Valley Kids, a community development charity based in the South Wales Valleys. It forms part of the Wales Cultural Olympiad. The dancers will be accompanied by Boyd and teacher and choreographer Christopher Kindo.

Both South African and Welsh performers prepared themselves for the event when they rehearsed at the DFA studios in April, as well as at the Artscape Theatre and the Zip Zap Circus tent. A duplicate of the Cardiff performance will be staged in Cape Town towards the beginning of November this year.

Visit www.danceforall.co.za for more information. n

Feature

AfricanInspired Tony Park

Australian author, Tony Park, fell in love with Africa almost two decades ago and has translated that passion into a string of successful action adventure novels set in Southern Africa. These include Far Horizon, Ivory and his latest novel African Dawn.

Tony and his wife, Nicola, now divide their time between Australia and Southern Africa, where they recently took their second trip on The Blue Train. We caught up with Tony to find out why he finds Africa so inspiring, how he researches his books, and just how he plans to incorporate The Blue Train itself into his next novel.

Text: Nicky Furniss Images: © Tony Park

Tony’s most recent book, African Dawn deals with the horrific issue of rhino poaching. While he was researching the book’s subject matter he visited a rhino breeding ranch in Zimbabwe

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Tony loves to combine his two great loves – spending time in the bush and writing

The Blue Train (BT): Many people dream of writing a book, but never actually do. What was your catalyst to finally sit down and write?

Tony Park (TP): I think the two biggest obstacles to writing a book are time and place. I used to work as a journalist and then in public relations so I was always writing – and I loved writing but the last thing that I wanted to do when I went home was more writing. So I needed time, and with the support of my wife, Nicola, I was able to take six months off work. So I tried to write but I was at home in Sydney in the spare room and I couldn’t think of anything to write.

In 1995, about three years before I got serious about trying to write, Nicola and I came to Africa on a holiday.

It was a once in a lifetime trip but what happened to us is what happens to a lot of people from overseas; we got bitten by something and we got hooked. So we started coming back to Africa every year after that. So after failing to write a book at home, we went on our first extended trip around Southern Africa; we bought an old Land Rover in 1998 and just hit the road. And I found that now I had the time and I had the place, so I thought: “Why don’t I just write a book set in Africa?” And I got published. I was certainly inspired by the continent. There is no shortage of material to write about and it all came together at once – and that was the catalyst.

BT: They always say that you should write about what you know, so why have you yet to write a book set in Australia?

TP: As a writer, you need to be inspired. You know,

Australia is a beautiful country – a lovely, safe, orderly country. There is nothing wrong with that, but could I really write an action adventure novel set in Australia? I think that would be pushing the bounds of credibility.

But every person you meet in Southern Africa has enough material for a hundred fiction books. So while I couldn’t really think of a story set in Australia, in South Africa, I didn’t really have to try because there is so much happening.

My latest book African Dawn is set in Zimbabwe and while it is purely a work of fiction, it deals with the tumultuous last 50 years of history in Rhodesia and Zimbabwe. Everybody there has a story that will make you cry or which is absolutely amazing. A lot of the book is based on true stories which I have turned into a novel. You don’t have to scratch very hard here to find material for a book.

BT: What exactly is it about Africa that makes it such a good setting for books?

TP: I think even when writing fiction, or reading fiction, I like to be inspired. I like happy endings. And there often aren’t happy endings. People do struggle with problems such as crime and corruption, political mismanagement and health issues like HIV/AIDS. These things happen around the world, but it seems – because it is – that in parts of Africa, these problems are far worse than most other places that my readers will ever encounter. But what inspires me is the way that people deal with some of these problems or how they decide to pick themselves up and carry on after going through some pretty horrendous experiences. And that is inspirational in the true sense of the word.

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Feature Tony got into character while researching his current novel during a trip on The Blue Train

BT: Do you find then that personal experience is always better than even the best research when writing a book?

TP: I think so, because what I find – and it’s partly because I am not from here and I don’t have any residual knowledge of the places that I am writing about – is that the best way to capture the essence of a place is to go there. And I think as a writer, you need to keep yourself interested, and that’s one of the challenges. You can’t do this job unless you really enjoy it and if you can combine this with something you love – and for me that’s spending a lot of time in the bush – then the whole process works together.

And if I don’t know something from a research point of view, the other thing I do is that I find people. I use the Internet to find people and then I send them an email and ask them to help me. And you know, I have never had anyone say no. I have found that people in South Africa and Zimbabwe in particular are very helpful. South African helicopter pilots working in Somalia have helped me, surgeons in the Lowveld have helped me, gold mine managers – all sorts of people from all walks of life. And that’s one of the really fun parts of the job, to get to know these people.

BT: Is this your first time on The Blue Train?

TP: This is my second time actually, and I love it! I think it has a really good feel about it. I think the décor is great, because it is modern and a smooth ride, but it’s also kind of retro and funky as well. It has a lovely warm feeling to it.

BT: I believe that you are thinking about setting a scene in your next book on The Blue Train. Can you tell

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us more about that?

TP: Yes I am, but I am very wary about having a gun battle on the train – I want it to feature some intrigue rather than mass destruction! It’s such a fantastic setting, and luxury trains have always made such great settings for books – like Murder on the Orient Express – and in movies as well, because you have this very eclectic mix of people onboard in this luxurious setting, travelling through the night when all sorts of things could happen. Plus, there was talk about having a helicopter land on the roof, so we will see how we go. The great thing about fiction is that you can do whatever you want. The other funny thing about writing fiction in Southern Africa is that just when I think I am being a little too outlandish and out there, I pick up a newspaper the next day and discover that something far more bizarre has just happened!

For more information on Tony Park and his books, visit www.tonypark.net. n

Quick Questions Favourite authors: Deon Meyer and Nelson Demille.

What do you never travel without? My laptop.

Do you have a secret talent? Yes, I can remember the words from just about every song I have ever liked. It’s very handy for karaoke; I just wish I could sing!

Worst holiday destination: Romania.

What would people be surprised to know about you?

That I am 6 ft 6. That’s what my readers always say to me – that I look shorter in my pictures!

Travel

Desert Drifting Lodge Hopping in Namibia

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Some call Namibia the land God made in anger. In doing so, He created a tortured landscape that is quite breathtaking in its scope and diversity. It is a vast and spectacular moonscape of scrub, rocky plains, shifting sands, golden savannas, giant dunes, craggy peaks, and yawning canyons – a place of haunting beauty and enchantment. It is also a sprawling country of some 824,269 km². So to enjoy its magnificent and far-flung geological attractions, you would need the spirit of a Voortrekker and a healthy off-road 4x4 capacity… or maybe not!

Text: Roy Watts Images: © Roy Watts & Ilse Phillipson

A trip to ‘Dood Vlei’ (dead pan) is a surreal experience and extremely rewarding for avid photographers

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The tranquil beauty of Sossusvlei at dawn is best experienced from inside the basket of a hot air balloon

Enter Wilderness Air, the charter arm of celebrated Wilderness Safaris, Southern Africa’s safari travel specialists. The workhorses of their fleet are three Cessna Grand Caravans that can comfortably carry 12 passengers. As a backup, they also have ten smaller planes and a couple of twin-engined craft to cater for parties with fewer people. So getting to far-flung destinations becomes a pleasure, especially when you cruise at a speed and altitude at which you can fully appreciate the wonders below.

And Namibia is certainly a country that is most dramatic when viewed from the air.

In a process stretching back millions of years, the Orange River has been sweeping vast quantities of sand into the Atlantic Ocean where the Benguela Current carries it northwards and dumps it back along the lengthy Namibian coastline. The wind then kicks in, and in a relay blowing sand from one dune to the next, sets in motion the ever-changing abstract work of art that is the Namib Desert. Subtle symmetry is accentuated by dramatic shadows and hues that deepen from orange to crimson at sunrise and sunset. The intensity of colour is the result of unusually high concentrations of iron oxide, and the shades at any given moment are determined by the angle of refraction from the sun’s rays.

Nowhere is this sea of red sand more spectacular than in Sossusvlei, in the Namib Naukluft Park – the largest conservation area in Namibia. It is here that Wilderness Safaris manages the Kulala Wilderness, a 40,000-hectare tract of land within sight of the celebrated dunes. Within its boundaries, wildlife in the form of ostriches, springbok, and gemsbok flourish, along with predators such as Brown hyaenas, Bat-eared foxes, jackals and even the odd cheetah. Wilderness Safaris has three outstanding lodges here: Kulala Desert Camp, Kulala Wilderness, and Little Kulala.

Little Kulala is where innovative design meets superb whimsy.

Its 11 climate-controlled thatched villas are all beautifully decorated in synch with the magnificent panorama. Each has a private patio and a plunge pool while the interiors are tastefully

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Sossusvlei’s stark beauty is equally well captured from the window of a light aircraft

finished in neutral colours. Long dead ‘kameeldoring’ (camel thorn) trees surround the property, a few of which have been used to prop up the thatched roof of the entertainment centre – a Salvador Dalian touch minus the melting watches.

There is plenty to keep guests entertained here. There are few sights more beautiful than the desert at dawn, and there is simply no better vantage point to appreciate it than from inside the basket of a hot air balloon, floating serenely above the earth in sepulchral silence.

Then there is a fascinating drive to “Dood Vlei” (dead pan).

Some 500 years ago, the Tsauchab River’s course through the pan was blocked by sand dunes, drying it out forever, and causing the death of the kameeldoring trees growing here at the time. Burned black by the sun and preserved by a complete absence of the moisture necessary for decomposition, they form a striking contrast to the white solar-bleached clay. The result

Travel

A panoramic view from the deck of Little Kulala

is a surreal and dramatic tableau, with the skeletons from bygone centuries pointing towards the sky.

Lodge guides frequently take guests on an interesting walk through the Sesriem Canyon where the Tsauchab River cut its way a couple of million years ago, and a thrilling quad bike ride is available for those looking for a different wilderness experience.

After a hyperactive couple of days, I found myself on board a Caravan heading for our next destination, Ongava Lodge, a mere 16 km from the famous Etosha National Park.

Built on a hill overlooking a popular waterhole, Ongava’s 14 chalets blend artistically with the surrounding bush. There is also a central restaurant where visitors can enjoy al fresco meals while watching an endless procession of game. Every day there is a morning game drive through the open plains of neighbouring Etosha, and a late afternoon one through the denser vegetation of the surrounding Ongava Reserve.

There was one more surprise in store before a reluctant return to the bustle of civilisation – a night spent in Little Ongava, a Wilderness Premier Camp that is a brisk walk up the hill. I have long known that rustic walkways and rickety bridges always lead to places of great enchantment, and this was no exception. Here three spacious chalets blend with the surrounding dolomite boulders. The interiors are dominated by African motifs and beautiful hardwood fittings.

Guests share a dedicated guide and vehicle, thus ensuring only the best wildlife experience. n

Useful Contacts Air Namibia: www.airnamibia.com.na Wilderness Safaris: Contact +27 11 807 1800, or email enquiry@wilderness.co.za Namibia Tourism Board: Contact +27 11 702 9602 or email namibia@lloydorr.com (Johannesburg); Contact +27 21 422 3298 or email namibia@saol.com (Cape Town); or email www.namibiatourism.com.na (Windhoek)

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A luxury chalet at Little Ongava

One of Wilderness Air’s Cessna Caravans – a convenient way to lodge hop in Namibia

Feature

Who Needs

Roads?

Giniel De Villiers

Giniel de Villiers (39) is the only South African to win an international rally-raid type event (The 2009 Dakar, Volkswagen). And with numerous Dakar podium finishes – including his most recent third place position in the 2012 Dakar – he has assured himself a spot in the annals of legendary South African off-road drivers.

Giniel and his co-driver Dirk von Zitzewitz celebrate their podium finish in the 2012 Dakar

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Text: Bernard K Hellberg Images: © Quickpic & Motorpic

Feature

Giniel de Villiers was a successful touring car driver and an off-road champion before trying his hand at international cross-country rallies. After winning four touring car titles in South Africa (1997 to 2000 in a factory Nissan Primera), he turned his attention to a completely new challenge in the 2001 season, trading in the even surfaces of the racetrack for the rough tracks of cross country rally driving. He won the 2001 South African National Off-Road Championship in a Nissan Hardbody pickup and participated in the Dakar Rally in 2003, 2004 and 2005 (finishing 5th, 7th and 4th respectively) driving South African-built Nissan Hardbody pickups.

De Villiers came second in the 2006 Dakar Rally in a factory Volkswagen Race Touareg 2 and went on to win four stages of the 2007 Dakar for VW in an event he was unlucky not to win. He had a lead of more than half an hour over the eventual winner Stéphane Peterhansel (Mitsubishi Pajero Evo) with less than half the rally remaining when his VW suffered an engine fire. As a result, he eventually finished 11th.

When he eventually won the Dakar in 2009 (with a lead of 8 minutes and 59 seconds over team mates Mark Miller of America and Ralph Pitchford of South Africa), De Villiers became the first South African to win the world’s longest and toughest motor sport event and in so doing, he gave VW its first

victory with the diesel-engined Race Touareg. He was voted ‘Motor Sportsman of the Year’ by the South African Guild of Motoring Journalists for this achievement.

In the 2010 Dakar, De Villiers and his German co-driver Dirk von Zitzewitz finished 7th overall in a Race Touareg, 5 hours, 10 minutes and 19 seconds behind winner and team mate Carlos Sainz of Spain. Any chance he had of winning a second Dakar was dashed when his Volkswagen suffered electrical problems in stage three and he had to wait for his assistance truck, losing over two hours in the process. For the rest of the rally he played a support role to his team mates.

He finished third to Volkswagen team mate Nasser Al-Attiyah of Qatar in the 2011 Dakar and ahead of 2010 winner Carlos Sainz in a third Race Touareg. “As you would expect from the Dakar, this has been a really tough rally, long and tiring,” he commented after the event. “My co-driver Dirk von Zitzewitz and I are very happy to have finished second after our disappointing result last year when we were seventh after losing over two hours with electrical problems on the third stage. Our strategy throughout the 13 days of racing was to push as hard as we could without taking any unnecessary risks. We lost a bit of time in the early stages and it’s always difficult to make up. The Dakar demands great respect and

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Feature One of the Toyota Hiluxs that helped to make history for the manufacturer when three of the South African built cars finished the 2012 Dakar

Giniel celebrates with his Toyota team mates Rob Howie and Duncan Vos (left) and Toyota Motorsport team principal Glyn Hall (right)

we are proud to have made it on to the podium for the third time in five years.”

The door to Dakar 2012 was opened for Toyota South Africa when Volkswagen decided to enter the World Rally Championship in 2012 instead. No longer contracted to VW Motorsport in Germany, De Villiers turned his attention to the South African Rally Championship in a factory Volkswagen Polo, competing in the premier Super 2000 class with Ralph Pitchford as his co-driver.

However, his first love has always been ultra-tough off-road events. “When it comes to desert rallies, you have to overcome new challenges every day, be incredibly flexible and be focused all the time – all of which I love.” His love for the sport manifested itself once more this year when he and his co-driver Dirk von Zitzewitz clinched yet another podium Dakar finish – and one which will surely not be the last for this talented rally driver. n

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Toyota Makes History Toyota made history at the 2012 Dakar when three Toyota Hilux pickups, built and developed in South Africa

by Toyota Motorsport, finished third, sixth and 11th in the 8,000 km 15-day marathon that saw the original 161 starters in the car category reduced to just 79 at the finish.

2009 Dakar winners Giniel de Villiers and his co-driver Dirk von Zitzewitz achieved a remarkable third place on the podium in a Toyota Hilux pickup backed by Imperial Toyota, Duxbury Netgear and the Innovation Group. Team mates Duncan Vos and Rob Howie were 11th in the second Imperial Hilux, while Argentine privateers Lucio Alvarez and Bernardo Graue were sixth in a Hilux entered by the Belgian Team Overdrive.

It is the first time a Toyota Hilux has competed in the Dakar and it was the maiden appearance of a Toyota in the top T1 class, which has been dominated for the past three years by Volkswagen’s prototype Race Touareg and for seven years before that by Mitsubishi’s purpose-built Lancer prototype.

The Dakar Hilux was built for the 2011 Absa South African off-road championship and their production V8 Toyota engines are restricted in accordance with regulations that have been accepted internationally, including those that will apply to the 2013 Dakar. Of the many cars that adhered to this future Dakar specification, referred to as class T1.5, the South African Toyotas finished first, second and third – an encouraging result that bodes well for the future.

Remarkably, all three cars completed the 8,000 km journey without any mechanical problems. The punishing conditions included high-speed stages through desert scrubland, dry river beds and canyons, maximum temperatures above 40 degrees Celsius in the Atacama Desert and a high altitude (4,700 m) crossing of the Andes Mountains in sub-zero temperatures.

Travel

Untamed The Allure of the The Wild Coast

Notoriously rugged and dramatically beautiful, South Africa’s Wild Coast certainly lives up to its name. Despite this – or possibly because of it – The Wild Coast also makes a very memorable holiday destination.

Text: Nick van der Leek Images: © Nick van der Leek & David Paeme

The 280 km strip of coastline known as The Wild Coast (extending north from East London and south from Port Edward in KwaZulu-Natal) is something of a serial killer of ships. In fact, shipping disasters such as the peppercorn carrying Santo Alberto in 1593 and the Santo Espirito (transporting Ming porcelain from China) 15 years later became so common that many historians believe that these losses preceded the disintegration of the Portuguese Empire.

Luckless survivors of 16th and 17th century shipwrecks found the land north of the Fish River already inhabited by one of South Africa’s largest tribes, the amaXhosa (a word thought

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to mean “fierce”). Imagine the travails, then, of the survivors of the Stavenisse, a Dutch ship that sank near Coffee Bay in 1686.

During the same time, two English ships, the Bonaventura and the Good Hope, also suffered similar misfortunes.

The crews of all three ships – having encountered one another in similarly unpleasant circumstances – decided to work together to construct a makeshift boat in order to sail back to Cape Town. En route they encountered and rescued more survivors. Among these was a French teenager who had already had his fair share of adventure, which included smuggling himself to America, visiting the Far East and most

Lupatana Rocks is a 24 km drive from Lusikisiki. The area is famous for Milkwood Forests and Humpback whales

Travel

Lloyds of London, who had insured the 2,000 ton Greek coaster, The Jacaranda, refused to pay out after it was wrecked, believing that the ship (which was empty, and carrying a crew of just 15) was intentionally scuppered

Heading out on horseback towards Wavecrest’s 3 km long curving beach – one of the most beautiful beaches in South Africa

recently, enjoying the protection of a local Xhosa chief. Having learnt the Xhosa language, the young lad (just 13 years old) acted as a guide and interpreter for his companions.

Even fairly recently the Wild Coast still manages to rustle up some maritime action and claim the odd ship or two. In 1991, the Oceanos encountered massive swells and finally sank in 90 m of water along a particularly beautiful, but rugged stretch of coastline, about 10 km from Hole-in-the-Wall.

On terra firma, however, Hole-in-the-Wall offers visitors a chance to soak up one of the most iconic features of the Wild Coast. This great mass of rock obstructs the mouth of the Mpako River, and thanks to a confluence of geological idiosyncrasies, the river and fluctuating tides have contrived over aeons of time to carve a large hole clean through the hulking massif. The large waves pummelling through the tunnel and the secluded, subtropical bay work together to produce a near constant, carnal roar.

Heading further north beyond Coffee Bay (so named because a ship laden with coffee once sank here) towards Port St John (named after a 16th century Portuguese shipwreck, the São João), one encounters the ‘Table Mountain’ sandstone cliffs, with their typical rough layers. Some of the most striking and pristine areas here include Brazen Head, Mpande Bay and a birdwatcher’s paradise: the Hluleka Nature Reserve, which is overflowing with waterfowl.

As well as vivid birdlife, beached shipwrecks and colourful mud huts, the Wild Coast is also renowned for its spectacular waterfalls. Two of the most breathtaking are the 160 m high Mfihlelo Falls (the highest waterfall in Africa that runs directly into the sea), and the famous Waterfall Bluff, with its dramatic cliff scenery which includes ‘Cathedral Rock’ and the ‘Castle’ rising out of the surf. The sheer cliffs and crooked crags around Waterfall Bluff are examples of ‘tear-away’ sections. These were areas where the rocks were once part of the super-continent Gondwana, until incredible forces working against unutterable inertia forced away sections of rock, which floated slowly away,

eventually to become Antarctica. Even closer to the northern end of the Wild Coast and KwaZulu-Natal, fossil beds can be found close to the Mzamba River when the tide is low.

While the waterfalls and rugged coastline of the northern Wild Coast (as far south as Hole-in-the-Wall) are accessible from Durban, the southern section – which has some of South Africa’s most beautiful lagoons, mangrove ecosystems and sweeping white beaches – are better reached from East London.

Here the Wild Coast is not quite as wild or as empty. Plenty of popular resorts dot the coast, including Haga Haga (which sees a daily dose of commuting dolphins), Wavecrest (with its fantastic dunes, stunning lagoon and endless beach) and Kob Inn (close to the large, fish-filled Qora River Mouth.)

Every now and then, a chance encounter with yet another wreck on this fabulous coast (like the Jacaranda which was wrecked – possibly on purpose – near Wavecrest in 1971) is a reminder that something special lives in the land, and the surf, and the inhabitants here. The Grosvenor, on the other hand, illustrates how the Wild Coast likes to hold on to some of its treasures. This East Indiaman ran into trouble over the same stretch of waters that claimed the São João nearly two centuries earlier. While only a handful of the 150 on board drowned, only 18 would eventually reach Cape Town. Of these, only four would survive the last leg back to England.

Many expeditions were launched to pursue rumours of treasure aboard the Grosvenor (including a solid gold ‘Peacock Throne’). But while fortune seekers have tried everything from suction dredgers to explosives, the Wild Coast has only ever let slip the occasional gold or silver coin.

Meanwhile, the Wild Coast’s seas and storms, its wicked currents and shifting sands continue to defy overly ambitious visitors. For restless adventurers, there is a 25 day hike that traverses much of the coastline. But, whichever way you choose to explore it, it is best to savour the Wild Coast slowly – one chunk at a time. n

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Chef

A Circus Performer in Her

Own Right Chef Grethel Ferreira

With trapeze artists twirling high in the air, Mongolian contortionists twisted into living pretzels, and gymnasts balancing precariously on each other, it is easy to think that all the amazing feats at the dinner circus spectacular, Madame Zingara’s Theatre of Dreams, happen in the middle of the big top. But, in fact, one of the most astounding feats performed here every night happens behind the scenes. Tucked away in a 12 m long converted container, Chef Grethel Ferreira and her team feed four delicious courses to over 400 people every night – and still manage to do so with flair and flavour.

Text: Nicky Furniss Images: © Madame Zingara

When I arrive at Madame Zingara’s latest home in Johannesburg’s Montecasino (where its new show el Milagro has been playing to sold-out audiences since the beginning of March), I am shown through to the backstage area. Here, the performers and the production staff are eating their dinner or chatting. The perfect word to describe the atmosphere is “chilled”. The same cannot be said about Grethel, who rushes in breathless, profusely apologising for not having had time to wash her face or put on makeup. She searches around for a pair of empty chairs and as she sinks gratefully into hers, she tells me that this is the first time she has sat down since she arrived at work over nine hours ago.

She explains that while she is used to working long hours, the first few weeks in a new city are particularly gruelling, and 16 hour days are the norm. “Clearly you are a sucker for punishment?” I ask her. “Yes! I don’t know why I think stress is going to keep me young forever, because you can already start to see the lines,” she laughs, pointing at her face. She admits, though, that she loves the adrenaline rush she gets from sending out over 1,600 dishes a night. It gives her the kind of buzz that working in a normal kitchen just doesn’t. “There is so much to do here, and so much more freedom to do it in. You are never doing just one thing at a time,” she explains.

Boredom may not be a worry, but how exactly does Grethel and her team manage to pull off this gargantuan task every night? It seems it all comes down to four things: experience, routine, preparation and team work.

“Most of my kitchen staff have been working with the

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company for many years, so they know exactly what they are doing. And when we get new staff in, the original staff train them,” Grethel explains. This passing on of experience is invaluable, as Grethel and her team have created an almost fool-proof system over the years. And it is a strict adherence to this that ensures everything runs smoothly. “It’s the same for everyone, from the cleaners to the scullery staff to the chefs. We all have to work together to make it happen,” says Grethel. “The kitchen staff know that they have between 11 and 15 minutes to send out the food, and then the scullery staff have 15 minutes to wash all of the plates and get them back to the kitchen staff so that we can pack them away, ready for the next round. It’s all a system.”

But she does admit that it was not always so well run. “In the beginning it wasn’t this smooth. We didn’t have all the things that we have now. We had a mobile truck with a four plate stove that we had to cook on all day long. Eventually, we realised that that wasn’t going to work, so we turned a 12 m long container into a customised kitchen, and it has worked much better since then.”

Like most chefs, though, who are perfectionists by nature, Grethel believes – even after six years with the theatre – that improvements could still be made to her system. “It doesn’t matter how many years you work here, you are always learning and there is always something else that you have to improve or fix.”

That said, the kitchen staff certainly cannot be faulted on the sheer amount of preparation they put into every meal they serve. Partially to keep their standards consistently high (and

Chef You will not find Grethel swinging from the trapeze any time soon, but she reckons her knife skills might earn her a spot on the Madame Zingara stage

Chef Grethel Ferreira and her team have a tried and tested formula to ensure that they can send out hundreds of dishes in less than 15 minutes

partially due to a lack of adequate storage space), everything that is served is prepared fresh daily. “I have three ladies who come in during the day to cook all the food that takes a little longer to prepare. So they cook all the lamb shanks, potato bakes and butternut, and they make all the desserts. Then, from about 15h00 onwards, I have three male chefs who work in the hot kitchen, prepping the fish, the fillets and the lamb shanks. Then later, when we get the final meal count from the waiters, they prepare and plate all the meals. There are also a number of chefs who work in the cold kitchen, who prepare salads and salsas,” she explains.

Obviously in an operation this size, and with such short turnaround times, teamwork is essential. But how does Grethel maintain a happy team? “We’re so busy, we don’t have time to complain!” she laughs. “We have all been working together for quite a while now, so we all understand each other. It’s very much like a family. We do have our fights, and we have our laughs, but we all enjoy the experience. It’s fun for all of us because we move around the country and it’s not like working in a normal kitchen – it’s a whole experience.”

Sadly – due to their workload behind the scenes – many of Grethel’s team have never seen the entire Madame Zingara show, other than the odd peek when there is a lull in the action. That said, Grethel says that they still feel the energy

of the audience and the performers, and make sure to inject some of their own fun into the kitchen from time to time.

“When the show starts, we do hear things from the front, and the excitement does rub off on us. The kitchen is more structured and there are more regulations in the back, but we also have our fun – like seeing which side of the kitchen can finish their work first.”

Of the acts she has seen, Grethel says that her favourite is the sexy bath act performed by South African trapeze artist Christine du Plooy. Grethel feels no desire however, to trade places with her, admitting to a fear of heights. With a career as a trapeze artist out of the question, I ask Grethel what hidden talent she would put on display if she was suddenly expected to perform in the evening’s show. “Hmm, I think I would be one of those people who throw knives. I don’t think I have any other hidden talents, but I do have knife skills!”

After meeting Grethel, I think she seriously underestimates her stock of hidden talents. If only the audience at Madame Zingara’s Theatre of Dreams could take a peek into her kitchen, there is no doubt that they would be suitably in awe of the amazing juggling act she and her team pull off each and every night. It is certainly an act that is worthy of a standing ovation.

For more information on ‘Madame Zingara’s Theatre of Dreams’, visit www.madamezingara.com. n

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Feature

Love Affair A Motoring

The Porsche 911 Carrera Cabriolet

There is a defining moment in the life of every motoring journalist when he is introduced to a car which marks the beginning of a lifelong mechanical love affair. The ‘other party’ in this ‘l’Affair de Coeur is a Porsche 911 Carrera Cabriolet which, even after 49 years, is still all-Porsche in the sense that it has few, if any, rivals in terms of sheer design excellence, mechanical superiority, and build quality.

Text: Bernard K Hellberg Images: © Porsche

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Feature

Driven on the volcanic island of Gran Canaria in Spain, the Cabriolet navigated the narrow and twisting roads superbly.

It is propelled by a muscular, and traditionally rear-mounted, flat six boxer design 3.8 litre engine which, coupled with the optional and brilliant seven speed PDK transmission, ensures that the Cabriolet S can produce a top speed of 301 km/h and can reach 0-100 km/h in just 4.7 seconds. Incidentally, the PDK stands for Porsche Doppelkupplungsgetriebe (double clutch transmission).

The Porsche exhibits its racing heritage by utilising every trick in the book – such as an aluminium steel body which lowers its overall mass by 60 kg, and electro-mechanical steering (a Porsche trademark) which is vastly superior to every other system on the market in terms of precision. In a nutshell, the Porsche cabriolet goes where it is pointed, without the tail stepping out. The special 20” wheels also enhance its uncanny road holding abilities. At the front, the 911 features 245/35 ZR 20s, while those at the rear are 50 mm wider.

The body itself is a work of art with its wings, doors, engine and luggage compartment lids made of aluminium. Occupant safety is ensured by two-stage driver and passenger airbags, as well as side and knee airbags for the driver and front passenger.

But, even after 49 years when the first (air-cooled) 911 made its appearance, this latest generation is still designed and built around the true heart of a Porsche – a water-cooled flat six aluminium engine with four overhead camshafts and four valves per cylinder, direct petrol injection and two oxygen sensors per cylinder bank. With this masterpiece developing its maximum power at 7,400 rpm, 10.1 litres of oil is needed to keep everything well lubricated. Obviously, it will run best with the highest grade fuel available.

Anyone who pays in the region of R1.2 million for this car can expect superior grade interior finishing, seats and sound systems. The new folding roof is a complete stand-alone development, tensioned in an elegant arc to provide virtually the same side view as the steel roofed coupe, and even the heatable rear window is virtually flush fitting. The built-in electric wind deflector can be deployed at speeds of up to 120 km/h. This ensures that draughts are eliminated to a large extent, and that wind noise is minimal when the top is down.

Braking ability, an essential component of every super car’s DNA, is taken care of by the Porsche Ceramic Composite Brake (PCCB) with ceramic disc brakes and new six piston monobloc

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fixed callipers on the front axle as an option.

Apart from spending time staring at the engine, a Porsche owner will demand the ultimate in interior comfort. Sports seats, with electrically adjustable backrest angle and height, take care of the driver’s every wish. In addition, optional sports seats are 14-way adjustable with everything being electrically powered. This version also includes the memory package and full electrical steering column adjustment.

If driving with the top down does not offer the desired climate, the 911 Carrera Cabriolet driver and passenger can enjoy the comfort of dual-zone climate control. An active carbon filter cleans the air of particles and pollen and absorbs all smells. The automatic climate control also features an air quality sensor which automatically switches from external ventilation to air recirculation in the event of poor air.

High speed driving at night requires out-of-the-ordinary illumination. The Porsche Dynamic Light System (PDLS) features dynamic cornering lights and speed-dependent driving light control which adjusts the light cone and light intensity for improved visibility. This light control system swivels the main headlights by up to 15 degrees into the corner – depending on the steering angle and driving speed.

Ultimately, however, the prospective buyer will have to view and drive the Porsche 911 Carrera Cabriolet to experience first hand why this particular vehicle is, in my view, the ultimate car. It’s a bargain at the price and I see a waiting-list situation developing at Porsche SA. It will be well worth the wait. n

Accommodation Guide

The Last Word

Constantia

Vibrant indigenous flora and vivid exotic plant life create a serene ambience at The Last Word Constantia, which is a mere 25-minute drive from Cape Town.

Situated in the Cape’s oldest and most beautiful wine valley, The Last Word Constantia is close to seven of South Africa’s top wine estates and many internationally celebrated restaurants. This five-star intimate hotel is in an exclusive area just one minute’s drive from the chic Constantia Mall’s fashionable shops and restaurants. An easy approach to freeways gives guests superb access to all the Cape’s scenic delights, from Simonstown and the False Bay beaches to the City Centre, Waterfront and beyond.

Contact

The Last Word Constantia – Cape Town • Call: +27 21 794 6561 • Email: info@thelastword.co.za • Website: www.thelastword.co.za

WiFi

Universal AC

Spa/Pool/Gym

Smoking Rooms

Disabled Access

Room Service

Child Friendly

Guided Drive/Walk

Air-conditioning

Malaria Free

Conference Facilities

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access 25-minute drive from Cape Town

Accommodation Guide

Franschhoek Country House & Villas

This five-star hotel combines local charm with fine dining and pampering, where the best local wines and cuisine come together in an idyllic setting.

Situated in the heart of the Franschhoek Valley, much is on offer at the Franschhoek Country House and Villas for guests to enjoy and indulge in. Complemented by the well known Monneaux Restaurant, the hotel is ideally located on the outskirts of the Franschhoek Village, only 1 km from the town’s centre. It is an ideal base to indulge your tastes for fine wines and world-class cuisine. Guests can choose between staying in the original and charming Franschhoek Country House or in one of its many modern and sumptious Villas. Whichever you choose, the accommodation on offer is designed with complete comfort and luxury in mind.

Contact

One hour drive from Cape Town

Franschhoek Country House & Villas– Franschhoek • Call: +27 21 876 3386 • Email: bookings@fch.co.za • Website: www.fch.co.za

WiFi Spa/Pool/Gym

access

Universal AC S/P/G

Smoking Rooms

Disabled Access

Room Service

Child Friendly

Guided Drive/Walk

Air-conditioning

Malaria Free

Conference Facilities

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Restaurant Guide

Bosman’s Grande Roche Hotel

An aura of timeless elegance sets the tone for Bosman's Restaurant at the five-star Grande Roche Hotel, where fine dining and attentive service are the order of the day.

Situated in the Manor House at the Grande Roche Hotel in the Paarl Winelands, this 70-seater restaurant and terrace has a multitude of awards to its name including being listed as one of the top ten restaurants in South Africa, as well as one of the top 100 restaurants in the world. These richly-deserved accolades are recognition of the superb harmony of flavours and textures that are the hallmark of a truly magnificent dining experience combined with unsurpassable service and spectacular views across the Paarl Valley.

Contact

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Bosman's Grande Roche Hotel, Paarl Winelands • Call: +27 21 863 5100 • Email: reserve@granderoche.co.za • Website: www.granderoche.com

The Blue Train

access 50-minute drive from Cape Town

Restaurant Guide

Dutch East Franschhoek

The menu of homely but stylish Dutch East Restaurant is inspired by the seasons, combining local produce with eastern flavours.

Dutch East Restaurant serves a variety of simple, eastern-inspired dishes. Head Chef Pasch du Plooy was introduced to eastern ingredients, flavours and combinations at a very young age. Later on he started to incorporate these ingredients into his style of cooking. Techniques like pickling and searing, as well as ingredients such as soy mirin and sesame have become staples in his kitchen. This makes for an eclectic and exciting dining experience in the heart of Franschhoek.

Contact

access One hour drive from Cape Town

Dutch East Restaurant – Franschhoek • Call: +27 21 876 3547 • Email: info@dutcheast.co.za • Website: www.dutcheast.co.za

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History

In the Tracks of a

Legend The History of The Blue Train

For over half a century, The Blue Train in South Africa has enjoyed an international reputation as one of the world’s pre-eminent travelling experiences. Officially named The Blue Train in 1946, the train’s predecessors trace their history to the 1890s and the discovery of diamonds and gold.

Text & Images: © The Blue Train

For the empire builders of old, the unchartered African interior was the landscape of a dream in the making. A dream that would etch its course in parallel lines that snaked their way northward from the Atlantic shoreline, conquering the distance from Cape Town to Cairo.

This dream was not to be, as the Great African Railway reached only as far as a bridge across the gorge of the Zambezi River, overlooking the thundering smoke of the Victoria Falls. But in the fading years of the 19th century, the discovery of gold and diamonds drew thousands to the edge of the continent, and those lines of tempered steel began to bear the burden of industry, commerce, and society on the move.

Soon, as the moneyed classes made their presence felt, the network added leisure travel to its list of duties, and in the slipstream of leisure came luxury. The Union Limited and the Union Express, ferrying passengers between the mailships of Cape Town harbour and the goldfields of the Witwatersrand, were the standardbearers of steam-powered opulence in the easy-living heyday of the 1920s, boasting everything from card tables to hot and cold water on tap. A coat of royal blue and cream would later give the trains their distinctive livery, and it was from this line, in these shades, that The Blue Train – a “Palace on Wheels” – would ride the rails to legendary status.

Withdrawn from service during the dark days of World War Two, extensively refurbished and modernised in the seventies and nineties, The Blue Train went on to define a new era of luxury travel, making the switch from steam to electric and diesel, linking veld to sea, and tradition to progress, with a sense of style, grace, and mesmerising power that have never come close to being matched.

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The Blue Train

History

Keeping Up With Technology From the Age of Steam to the Age of the Internet, The Blue Train has kept on track with ever-changing technology. In the process, it has lost none of the charm that anchors it to a bygone era. In its earliest incarnation, as a direct descendant of the Union Limited and Union Express that plied their way between Johannesburg and the Cape coast, The Blue Train thundered down the rails at the command of a mighty steam locomotive. A wisp of romance still lingers from that coal-fired era, clouding the memory of an energy source that proved to be less powerful, less efficient, and far more difficult to maintain than its whisper-quiet replacement. Today, the dual Blue Train sets, differentiated only by their number of suites and the option of a Conference Car that doubles as an Observation Lounge, are hauled by a fleet of diesel or electric locomotives. Whatever the motive, The Blue Train glides through the countryside at a maximum service speed of 90 km/h, ensuring that the noise level of 55 decibels, somewhere between the sound of soft rainfall and normal conversation, is never exceeded. Inter-suite sealing ensures utter privacy for guests.

In the world of ever-shrinking boundaries, ever-intensifying demands, rail travel in the grand old tradition has become a luxury in itself. The luxury of time: time to indulge, time to reflect, time to savour sights, sounds, senses and sensations. You’ll feel it from the moment you step into your suite, transformed by a magical act of alchemy from an elegant, spacious lounge by day, into a sanctuary of comfort and slumber by night.

Bringing together cultures and travellers from across the globe, The Blue Train is an exclusive society on the move – one that will undoubtedly prevail for years to come. n

July 2012

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Train Layout

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The Blue Train

Feature

Feature