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HOME MAINTENANCE
All hands on deck
Tips to maintain outdoor space, Page 6
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GOODBYE, WEEDS, PAGE 2
FIREPIT INSTALLATION TIPS, PAGE 7
PICKING POOLSIDE PLANTS, PAGE 9
2 Saturday, May 19, 2018 The Topeka Capital-Journal | homes.cjonline.com
Weed control depends on identification Know when to apply chemicals for eradication
Ariel Whitely-Noll
F
or anyone battling weeds in their lawns, chemical sprays may seem like the obvious first choice. Although herbicides can be extremely effective weed control, they are the final step in a well-rounded weed control program. The first step in attaining a weed-free lawn is identifying the weed or weeds you’re trying to eradicate. This can be the most challenging part of the process. No single product or practice will control all weeds for the entire season, so without proper identification control methods may be in vain. If you have difficulty with this step, bring samples of the weeds to the Shawnee County Extension Office, 1740 S.W. Western Ave., for our Master Gardeners members to identify or the Shawnee County Weed Department, 2044 S.W. Western Ave. Both organizations offer free identification, but the county weed department also sells herbicides and offers sprayer rentals. The best weed sample includes the entire weed — root to flower — and multiple samples. Fresh samples are preferred over dry or wilted samples. Within weed
Dandelions are a perennial broadleaf weed that can be selectively controlled in turfgrass. However, the weeds must be actively growing for chemical controls to be effective. [METRO CREATIVE CONNECTION]
identification, weeds can be broken into six categories, which help to indicate how to control the weeds in that group. • Annual grasses are weeds that germinate, grow and produce seeds each year. They can resemble turfgrass in their growth, but they differ in texture and color. Annual grasses are most effectively controlled with a pre-emergent product. Control of these weeds after they germinate is less effective and challenging. Examples of annual grasses include barnyardgrass, little barley, crabgrass, annual bluegrass, foxtail, annual bromes, goosegrass, cheat, sandbur, downy brome and Japanese brome. • Annual broadleaf weeds also complete their life cycle in a single season, but they require different control measures than annual grasses. Unlike annual grasses, annual broadleaf weeds contrast from turfgrass in form, texture and in the broad nature of their leaves.
Chemical control for broadleaf weeds can damage landscape plants if not applied properly. These weeds must be actively growing for effective control. Examples of annual broadleaf weeds are carpetweed, bedstraw, fleabane, chickweed, kochia, deadnettle, lambsquarter, henbit, lespedeza, knotweed, mallow, mustards, morning glory, pepperweed, oxalis, shepherd’s-purse, pigweed, sowthistle, puncturevine, speedwell, purslane, wild geranium, ragweed, wild lettuce, smartweed and spurge. • Perennial grasses are weeds that persist for multiple growing seasons. This multi-year growth means they have an extensive root system, even if their top-growth dies back each year. Perennial grasses fall into the same category as turfgrass, so selective control is generally not possible. This means that chemical treatment of perennial grasses also
will kill the turfgrass in that area. You must then replant the desired grass before more weeds can become established. Examples of perennial grasses include Bermudagrass, tall fescue, nimblewill, quackgrass, silver beardgrass, orchardgrass, windmillgrass and rough bluegrass. • Perennial broadleaf weeds also come back each year, but unlike perennial grasses, these weeds can be selectively controlled in turfgrass. The important point for this category: These weeds must be actively growing for chemical controls to be effective. Examples of perennial broadleaf weeds are asters, bellflower, creeping oxalis,
mallow, white clover, dandelion, dock, ground ivy, healall, mousear, chickweed, plantain, red sorrel, sheep sorrel, thistles, violets and yarrow. • Biennial weeds grow vegetatively — leaves and stems — for one year. The following year, they flower and seed. For control purposes, this class of weeds can be treated like perennials. Examples of biennial weeds include wild carrot, mullein and some thistles. Some weeds, such as black medic, may fit more than one class. • Miscellaneous weeds include those that are neither true grasses nor broadleaf weeds. These weeds may require special control methods.•
Examples are algae, moss, nutsedge, wild garlic and wild onion. Once your weeds are identified, look at the cultural practices that may help to combat their growth and establishment. Many weeds can’t compete with a thick, healthy lawn. Some of our winter annuals, such as henbit and chickweed, are making their springtime debut in lawns. Chemical control in the spring would be a waste of time and money. With the heat of the summer, these winter annuals will die off. Other cultural methods that control weeds See WEEDS, 3
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WEEDS From Page 2
include proper mowing heights, proper turf selection for your yard, thatch control, watering and proper disease and pest management. If all cultural practices have been followed and you still experience
issues, chemical control is the final step in weed suppression. When using the chemical control method, make sure to select a product that is safe on turfgrass. Always follow all label directions and precautions. This includes timing, rate and when repeat applications can be applied. For more information
on weed control in home lawns, including specific chemical information, visit bit.ly/CJweeds or call the Shawnee County Extension Office, (785) 232-0062. Ariel Whitely-Noll is the horticulture agent for Shawnee County Research and Extension. She can be reached at arielw@ksu.edu.
TIP OF THE WEEK
Appealing plants Container plants are an easy way to spruce up the curb or patio appeal of a home. Better Homes and Gardens says these plants are easy to grow in containers: • Petunias • Verbena • Sweet potato vine
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• Coleus • Scaevola
Source: bhg.com
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Warm metals melt designer’s heart Nothing wrong with mixing silver, brass By Mary Carol Garrity Tribune News Service
The other day, my niece texted me: “Aunt Mary Carol, I’m having a debate with a friend, and we need your help to decide who is right. Is brass back in style?” There was a bottle of wine at stake, so I couldn’t let her down. “Yes, brass is back in!” I assured her. Her swift reply: “You just won me a bottle of Prosecco. Only AWESOME aunts win their nieces booze!” Friends and customers continue to be shocked by this fact. After the shiny brass craze of the ‘80s, brass fell out of favor for a while, relinquishing its crown to silver. But brass is roaring back into designers’ plans and onto store shelves. Today’s look A quirky chandelier in a soft brass finish is oil-rubbed brass, which has the warmth adds interest to the stairwell of Mary Carol and luster of brass but not the high luster. Garrity’s cottage. Brass never went out of style in my heart, or in my home. I’m my cottage, and always will be. still crazy about warm metals, like A quirky chandelier hangs in my brass and gold. It’s a mainstay in stairwell, leading down to the lower
An antique set of dishes, rimmed in gold, adds warmth to this table setting. [PHOTOS BY MARY CAROL GARRITY]
level. It's just right in a soft brass finish. In fact, my cottage is full of heart-melting warm metals. When we were renovating our little cottage, and it was time to pick out fixtures, I asked for oil-rubbed brass faucets in my kitchen and bath. The builder was shocked. Everyone else was committed to silver at the time. I liked the aged appearance of oil-rubbed brass, and I knew it would contribute to the look I was trying to create in the cottage, that of a house that had been here for decades. I also shocked the builder when I told him I was A-OK with mixing metals in my home. In my book, the door handles, light fixtures, hinges, faucets
and everything else don’t need to match. In fact, I like a blend of metal finishes. I’m a certified dish-a-haulic, and I love all my dishes with equal ardor. But the antique set rimmed in gold is among my most favorite. I like how they add warmth to my table, especially for winter and holiday dining. This column was adapted from Mary Carol Garrity's blog at nellhills.com. She can be reached at marycarol@nellhills.com.
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4 steps to get your deck ready for summer Check structure, give it a good washing By Samantha Egan Special to The Capital-Journal
Al fresco dining season is here, prompting the deck to rival the kitchen for the mostpopular space to share a meal. But before you haul out the table and chairs, set aside time to check off these to-dos to ensure your deck is summer ready. A yearly cleaning can wash away dirt, sap and mold from your deck. Use an alcohol-free soap, like dish soap, water and a broom to wipe the surface clean. [SUBMITTED BY WINSTON BROWN REMODELING]
1. Ensure the structure is sound.
No matter if your deck is made of wood or composite, a sturdy foundation is critical. Ryan Polter, president and owner of Arrow Exteriors, recommends doing a yearly visual inspection above, around and beneath your deck. When on top, test the railings to make sure they don’t wiggle. For wood decks, go underneath and check for boards that are rotting or pulling away from the house. Polter says to look across the beams and make sure the fasteners are holding properly and the posts are secure on the footers. If your deck shows signs of rot, Jake Brown, owner of Winston Brown Remodeling, says a professional should probably take a look. “If a deck seems structurally unstable, it probably is,” he said. 2. Replace bad boards.
For wood decks, Polter recommends replacing boards that are rotted or splintering. “If you replace three or four boards, you may as well replace them all, unless you have a huge deck,” he said. Brown also warns homeowners to look out for loose nails that can turn into “toe stubbers.” Pound nails back in with a
Decks that are stained or resealed every four to five years can last 25 to 30 years. Neglecting a deck, however, may decrease its longevity. [SUBMITTED BY WINSTON BROWN REMODELING]
hammer or replace them with a 3-inch deck screw. 3. Clean it up.
A yearly cleaning can wash away dirt, sap and mold. Polter recommends using an alcohol-free soap, like dish soap, water and a broom to wipe the surface clean. If you have a wood deck that is north-facing, Polter advises using a vinegar-water mixture to get out any mold or dampness caused by lack of sun. Avid cleaners should avoid the urge to wash too often. Polter says once a year is fine, but weekly washings could shorten the life of the stain. “It isn’t made for that,” he said. Every other year, a deeper clean can help lift more stubborn stains. Brown recommends using a pump-up sprayer and a deck wash. After following the product instructions, let the deck sit for 20 to 45 minutes before coming back with a power washer and washing each board in a back and forth pattern. “You can see the stains come up, and the deck boards start to look new again,” he said.
If you’re using a commercial power washer, don’t turn it up to full power. Brown advises keeping to 1,500 or less pounds per square inch (PSI) to avoid scarring your deck. Composite deck owners can skip the deep clean, but Brown says a yearly soap-and-water wash is a good idea. “Everything looks better and lasts longer when it’s maintained and cleaned,” he said. 4. Stain to extend life and improve look.
Staining will not only improve the appearance of your wood deck, but it also could extend its life. Polter says decks that are stained or resealed every four to five years can last 25 to 30 years. Neglecting it, however, may have the opposite effect. “It will only last 15 if you don’t take care of it,” he said. Stains come in three types: clear stains that leave a transparent, protecting oil for a natural finish; semi-transparent colored stains that block 50 percent of the wood grain for a wood floor look; and solid body stains that
Before you start entertaining this summer, go under your wood deck and check for boards that are rotting or pulling away from the house. If the deck is structurally unstable, call a professional to repair it. [SUBMITTED BY WINSTON BROWN REMODELING]
look like paint, completely hiding the grain and texture. While most stains last four to five years, Polter says solid stains last longer because the sun can’t penetrate them as easily, and Brown says, once you use a solid stain, it will be hard to go back. Whichever route you choose, Polter recommends budgeting for a better brand of stain. “The higher the price, the better it’s going to be,” Polter said. “If you spend $5 on 50 gallons, it’s probably not going to last long.” Brown warns against
impervious rubber coatings that may easily peel off. “If there’s one tiny hole, it pops,” Brown explained. “It’s like peeling wallpaper off your deck in tiny little pieces.” Once you’ve selected your stain, Polter says to apply it using a brush or power washer, following the product instructions. After the stain sits for a day, you’ll be ready for Brown’s last and, perhaps, most rewarding step: “Grill steak and enjoy.” Samantha Egan is a freelance writer from Topeka.
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Things to know before installing a fire pit Keep safety hazards in mind when installing
A fire feature in an outdoor space creates a cozy ambience and invites the gathering of family and friends.
By Paul F.P. Pogue Angie's List
With the arrival of warm weather, you may be thinking about installing a fire pit or other fire feature. The perfect complement to your outdoor entertaining space, a fire feature creates a cozy ambience and invites the gathering of family and friends. By the numbers The ideal fire pit is between 3 and 4 feet wide and about 18 inches tall. If it’s taller, you won’t feel its warmth; if it’s shorter, it will present a safety hazard. Keep your local climate in mind. If the wind tends to blow in a particular direction, consider how you can position your fire feature to avoid sending smoke in the direction of your neighbors. A pit should be lined with a
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noncombustible stone. Fire brick and fire clay mortar are designed to handle high temperatures. You don’t want to build your fixture purely out of concrete, as direct exposure to fire can damage concrete over time. You can purchase a DIY fire pit from a retail store for a few hundred dollars. A permanent professional installation starts at about $1,000 and can go up to $5,000, depending on features. Consider options When it comes to fire features, there’s a style and material to fit every space and
budget. You can purchase a ready-made, gas-powered fire pit; build a traditional stone circle; or install an outdoor fireplace complete with elaborate masonry. A clever installer can build a fire pillar, a fire table or an installation fixed directly into your deck — even a fire pit surrounded by water features. Instead of relying on folding chairs, you can install a sitting wall around the pit for permanent seating. Fire pits present a variety of design options. The base lining materials are more than a physical foundation; they establish the aesthetic. Noncombustible pebbles
come in a wide array of colors. Glass crystals present a sophisticated look, and colored rocks offer an earthy feel. Wood or gas? Wood and gas have their own pros and cons. The smell and crackling of wood give it a traditional appeal, but wood fires need to be watched and restocked regularly. Gas fires require less labor, and you have the option to raise and lower the flame with the twist of a valve. Gas fire features also create fewer sparks and require less-frequent cleaning than wood features. The downside to gas is a licensed professional needs to run and install a gas line to the feature, which adds to the cost of installation. Staying safe Fire pits can provide delightful entertainment for family and friends, but
exercise caution to keep the flames where they belong. • Trim nearby trees and bushes of limbs hanging near flames. • Keep a minimum safe distance between your fire pit and any structures. You should put at least 10 feet between your pit and garage, house or shed. Local laws and homeowner association codes may dictate specific lengths. • Prevent children from getting too close to the fire. • A fire pit screen provides some protection from falling in, and it keeps sparks from flying out. • Never leave your fire pit unattended. • Be sure you have a fire extinguisher on hand and ready to use. The extinguisher should be rated for the type of fuel source: A-rated extinguishers work on trash, wood and paper; B-rated extinguishers fight liquid fires, including gas and kerosene; and C-rated put out electrical fires.
Bathrooms go all white Nickel accents also popular By Ed Del Grande Tribune News Service
Q: Hi, Ed: I read your recent column about new bathroom collection plumbing fixture packages that perfectly coordinate and match up with each other and found the concept interesting. However, you did not go into any colors that are currently trending for new bathrooms. Do you have any color suggestions that are now hip for my new bathroom?
— Jan, New York A: This question has
me drawing a blank. The reason I'm blanking out is because, from what I've recently seen, a new bathroom color trend is going with a white-on-white palette. I mean a lot of white stuff — white plumbing fixtures, cabinets, floor tiles and walls. The fixture trim, accessories and faucet finish for this trend is brushed nickel, and the white reflections really bring out the
matted nickel finish. White also gives the impression of a very clean and open space, perfect for a modern-looking bathroom. Bottom line: The future for a lot more new and remodeled bathrooms going with a pure white theme is looking very bright. Master contractor/plumber Ed Del Grande is known internationally as the author of the book "Ed Del Grande's House Call," the host of TV and Internet shows, and a LEED green
A new bathroom color trend is pushing a white-on-white palette. Nickel faucets and accents also are catching designers’ eyes. [KOHLER]
associate. Visit eddelgrande.com or write eadelg@
cs.com. Always consult local contractors and codes.
8 Saturday, May 19, 2018 The Topeka Capital-Journal | homes.cjonline.com
For small home repairs, call a handyman List what’s needed to avoid multiple visits
A handyman can make a number of small repairs all at once, saving you time and money.
By HomeAdvisor
If you’re like most of us, there are a number of small home repairs you’d like to take care of but can never find the time for. Unfortunately, left unchecked, many small home repairs can turn into big, expensive problems. But there is a solution. If you don’t have the time to worry about every minor repair on your list, hiring a handyman service is a great way to get multiple small jobs done without carving out time for multiple home service appointments. What to expect The beauty of the handyman company is most are pretty flexible when it comes to the services they offer. Of course, faulty faucets and sticking doors are handyman-friendly projects, but if you have something a little more substantial or obscure, they’re likely to be able to handle that, too. Go over your list with your handyman prior to their visit to ensure the most effective and quickest repairs possible. A handyman may be able to mend everything from a plugged shower drain to a rickety antique bed frame, but there’s a good chance they’ll need to make a trip to the hardware store to stock the supplies necessary to complete all of your projects. List repairs needed If you decide to hire a handyman
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company, it’s a good idea to have a list of small repairs ready. Taking a close inventory of every small repair will eliminate the need for multiple visits. Additionally, many small home repairs require a considerable amount of setup. For example, fixing holes in drywall involves first preparing joint compound. Because there is little difference in preparing enough for one large hole and preparing enough for one
large hole and six small holes, making a list of these smaller holes will allow you to have them quickly fixed within the same visit and pricing structure. Cost expectations It’s easy to think hiring a handyman will be cheaper than hiring a contractor, but this assumption is only true in certain situations.
Handyman services are typically hired to perform multiple small home repairs and can cost less as a result. However, if you have one specific, complex problem, the specialist is generally the way to go. For example, if you have a stair that squeaks or a faucet that drips, hiring a handyman is probably your best bet. On the other hand, if you have a whole set of stairs to replace or a house full of two-pronged outlets that need to be upgraded, you’re better off hiring a pro. The reason is simple: Having several small home repairs handled by a single handyman company is going to be cheaper than hiring three or four specialists. On the other hand, when dealing with a single severe problem, the specialized contractor will often have the equipment and expertise to more efficiently make the repair. You should also keep in mind that if any “small” home repair is valued at over $500, your state may require that you hire a properly licensed contractor.
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Pool landscaping: Pretty with minimum of debris Avoid flowers that are thorny or pollinator-friendly By Dean Fosdick The Associated Press
Landscaping around an outdoor swimming pool requires no-muss, no-fuss plant selections. The pool can be a flowery focal point, but don’t open it to litter from leaves and limbs. “Both in- and aboveground pools offer unique design challenges and opportunities,” said Tim Moloney, an instructor in landscape design at the University of Missouri. “In-ground pools offer the ability to provide screening with lower height plants” but may
A honeybee gathers pollen from a dahlia. Bees and swimmers don’t mix, but generally the insect will ignore you if you ignore them. Choose flowers whose blooms generally don’t attract pollinators when landscaping around swimming pools. That would include marigolds, chrysanthemums, mint, foxglove, geraniums and zinnias. [DEAN FOSDICK VIA AP]
have more issues with litter falling into the pool. “Above-ground pools are somewhat sheltered from ground debris, but are more of
a challenge for visually softening the walls of the pool and (adding) privacy from outside viewers,” Moloney said. Start by considering
plant needs — sun or shade. Then decide what you want your poolside landscaping to achieve. “Privacy screening versus sun exposure is typically the strongest pool-owner concern,” Moloney said. “This is followed closely by litter and tracking of grass clippings and mulch materials. “After function is addressed, we focus on form. Making the space as enjoyable as possible.” Brightly colored flowers attract pollinators, and that could mean bee stings. Some of the most attractive ornamental plants have thorns. Both are obviously annoying to thinly clad and barefoot bathers. “Typically, I have found
that insects will generally ignore us if we ignore them,” Moloney said. “Just the mere presence of bees in the landscape does not initiate attack. However, if severe allergies or phobias of bees exist, I recommend concentrating on other ways to brighten up the landscape — brightly colored foliage, for example.” Or turn to marigolds, chrysanthemums, mint, foxglove, geraniums and zinnias whose blooms don’t typically attract stinging insects. And thorns? “Cacti are very climate specific, but can offer huge aesthetic benefits for arid environments,” Moloney See FLOWERS, 10
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FLOWERS From Page 9
said. “Roses offer us what few other plants can — an entire summer of repeat blooms. In my opinion, the benefits of these plants outweigh the hazards as long as the plants are positioned an appropriate distance from well-trafficked areas.” Some other poolside gardening do’s and don’ts: • Watch where you stockpile organic materials such as pine straw or bark. “They can blow
or be tracked into the pool by wet feet on pool decking,” Moloney said. • Select plants for year-round interest, even in cold weather when the pool is closed. Think evergreens. • Choose trees and shrubs that produce a minimum of litter. “Almost any organic material that falls from trees — needles, leaves, spent blooms, fruit — has the potential to stain hardscape elements like pool decks and patios,” Moloney said. “I simply try to balance the benefits with the concerns, and reach a compromise we can all live with.”
• Think about both day and night use. “Evenings can be accented by soft peripheral lighting or featuring tree trunks with up-lights,” said Robert Brzuszek, a landscape architecture professor with the Mississippi State University Extension Service. • Eliminate the use of dark-colored pavement around the pool; it adds reflected heat to plants, especially in hotter, dryer climates. “Plants that have smaller or waxy leaves will also lose less water than large thin leaves which dry out quickly,” he said.
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