At Home Living 092416

Saturday, September 24, 2016 An advertising feature of The Topeka Capital-Journal

LAWN AND GARDEN

Bulb bonanza

Fall planting for springtime colors, page 6

n Jamie Kidd on ornamental grasses, page 2 n Deer wreak havoc on roads, gardens, page 4 n Bring nature inside for fall decor, page 5 n It’s not too late to plant vegetables, page 10

homes.cjonline.com LINDA A. DITCH/SPECIAL TO THE CAPITAL-JOURNAL

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Ornamental grasses add interest to your landscape “And the waving wheat can sure smell and cool-season types. Cool-season types sweet when the wind comes right behind will start to grow early in the spring and the rain.” I know, we’re in Kansas not Okla- may even remain semi-evergreen over the winter. They do better and homa, but the waving wheat have better foliage qualipart happens here, too.

Jamie KiDD ties in the cooler temperaPart of the fascination of tures of spring and fall, but driving across Kansas is to if given sufficient water watch the wheatfields roll during dry summers, they like waves in the wind. I will fair very well. If they don’t want a wheatfield in aren’t watered, they will do my yard, but I can recreate just as turf grasses do and the waving motions or rusgo dormant to survive the tling sounds with ornamenjamiehan@ksu.edu hot weather. tal grasses.

Cool-season grasses may Ornamental grasses are appreciated for their adaptability and low require more frequent division to keep maintenance, and they’re showing up in them healthy and vigorous. Some of the more and more landscapes. They aren’t more popular cool-season grasses include usually meant to be mowed. They aren’t ornamental fescues, Karl Foerster feather meant to be uniform, and they aren’t meant reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora), to be treaded upon. Their purpose is to add contrast and interest to the landscape.

KIDD continues on 3 They can be used alongside flowers, trees and shrubs. They can be small enough to be fillers and ground covers. They can be tall enough to be a hedge or wall.

Types of grasses

Much like turf grasses, ornamental grasses also are categorized as warm-

MARK YOUR CALENDAR

The Shawnee County Extension Master Gardeners will demonstrate how to make and use compost at 9:30 a.m. Oct. 8 at the Master Gardener vegetable demonstration garden in front of the train engine on the southeast corner of the Kansas Expocentre grounds. Free.

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Kidd: Slow-release fertilizer great for summer use Continued from 2 tufted hair grass (Deschampsia) and blue lyme grass (Leymus arenarius).

Warm-season grasses will handle higher temperatures, even when moisture is limited.

Soils must be warm and weather more uniform for optimal growth. Warm-season grasses usually don’t need as frequent division as cool-season. Some warm-season ornamentals are Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium), Japanese silver grass (Miscanthus sp.), hardy pampas grass (Erianthus), perennial fountain grass (Pennisetum), switch grass (Panicum) and prairie cord grass (Spartina).

Ornamental grasses have two basic growing habits.

They can be a clump grass, which will form neat mounds or clumps, or they may spread by rhizomes. This means they will need to be contained or

managed well, because the rhizomes, or runners, will move the plants to new locations.

This isn’t a bad trait, especially if you’re trying to fill in an area with a ground cover or create a barrier.

Planting preparation

Ideally, the planting area should be prepared in fall with deep tilling. If this isn’t possible, spring preparation will be OK. Incorporate ample organic matter.

Fertilizing

Ornamental grasses, in general, don’t require high amounts of fertilizer. Add about 1 pound of general-purpose or starter fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 (lawn fertilizer will be fine to use), during soil preparation per 100 square feet. By keeping the level of nitrogen low, lodging or flopping over can be kept to a minimum.

Apply fertilizer again just as growth resumes in the spring. A slow-release fertilizer, like Osmocote, is enough to take care of the plant’s needs throughout the summer.

Planting

Ornamental grasses can be planted in spring or fall. The advantage of spring planting is to give the plants adequate time to develop a good root system before winter. If planting in the fall, plant in August or September.

Provide a light cover of straw or hay during the first winter.

Apply mulch after several hard frosts. Water the plants well and maintain adequate moisture around the plant to hasten establishment before winter sets in.

Don’t plant too deeply. Grasses tend to develop root diseases or simply rot in the ground.

Plant them no deeper than their previous growing depth.

Watering

Plants should be watered well the first season, so they can develop good root systems. Established plants don’t need regular watering, but they may need help during drought periods.The amount of water will depend on the grass, the site and the weather. Learning the origins of the grass will help you know whether it requires a moist but well-drained site, a dry site, or shade or full sun.

Survival of the plant will depend on this. Read the tag when purchasing the plant. Make sure you can provide what the plant needs.

There is a list of ornamental grasses that do well in Kansas at www.k-state.edu/turf/resources/ornamental-grasses. Look at the photographs and find a grass that suits you best.

Jamie Kidd is a horticulturist with K-State Research and Extension in Shawnee County.

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Fall motorists need to drive ‘deer defensively’

By Dustin Lemmon Special to The Capital-Journal

It’s not something most motorists think about as fall arrives, but watching out for deer is never more important than it is now through mid-November, or more specifically, Nov. 17.

The number of deer and vehicle collisions goes up in the fall as deer are breeding and migrating more than they do in other seasons.

“Does are receptive for only a short time, about 24 hours. The males are chasing the does during this time,” said Lloyd Fox, big

game program coordinator for the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism.

Deer also are paying less attention to dangers, such as vehicles.

“These are very distracted deer,” Fox said. “They’re not paying as much attention as they do the rest of the year. Because of the harvest, they’re also moving to different areas.”

Shorter fall days mean that dusk and dawn occur when commuter traffic is heaviest and when human vision is not at its best, Fox explained. This is also the

same time when deer are more likely to be moving.

“Boy, it just sets up the perfect storm,” Fox noted, “so that’s working against us.”

Deer-vehicle crashes occur in all Kansas counties, but in most cases, counties with larger populations and higher traffic volumes see the most accidents, according to the department’s website.

Fox said statistics show that accidents peak in the 30 minutes before sunrise and in the 30 minutes after sunset.

When it comes to avoiding

collisions with deer, here are some tips Fox recommends: n Drive “deer defensively.” Spot the deer before they’re in your path. n Slow down, especially when you see deer crossing signs. n Use your high-beam headlights. n Don’t swerve and lose control of your vehicle. n Avoid distractions, such as talking on your cellphone, talking to other passengers, etc.

Some of these tips may seem familiar, but they’re

FALL continues on 7

METRO CREATIVE CONNECTIONS

Migrating and breeding deer can cause problems on roadways and in gardens during the fall. Kansas Wildlife, Parks and Tourism says motorists should be on the lookout for the animals around dawn and dusk.

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Use autumn foliage to decorate entryways

By Shanna Sloyer Special to The Capital-Journal

The crisp smell of burning leaves and pumpkin spice are sure signs autumn is upon us. Spruce up your front entryway or porch area for the season using natural materials that blend into the surrounding landscape.

Jesse Borjon, co-owner of the Red Door Home Store, 2131 S.W. Fairlawn Plaza Drive, recommends using magnolia leaves for their shape and texture, garlands and foliage in soft hues of greens, whites, orange and burgundy, as well as cotton mixed with leaves, bittersweet and pumpkins for a natural, elegant look.

Vary pumpkins and gourds by selecting different shapes, sizes and colors, such as yellow, orange,

green and white. Stack them in urns, or arrange them as part of a mixed display in a small wooden cart or wheelbarrow.

Large pumpkins can be stenciled or monogrammed with initials or fall greetings to make a statement when guests arrive.

Other materials to incorporate include long sticks or smaller pieces of birch wood, cornstalks, hay bales, vine and pinecones or seedpods.

Cattails and wheat stalks are also popular choices for fall decor. The materials can be the inspiration for container arrangements or a front door wreath or basket.

“Spheres are popular right now, especially filled with pumpkins and foliage,” Borjon said.

Fill wrought-iron orbs, urns and other containers

JAKE GATCHELL/SPECIAL TO THE CAPITAL-JOURNAL

Colorful natural materials, such as leaves and bittersweet, can be incorporated into decorations for a home’s entryway. with seasonal fresh flowers, such as chrysanthemums, which come in many colors, or dried hydrangea. Keep the

arrangements proportional to the pot or container.

Red Door Home Store carries a variety of differ-

ent floral and leaf stems and picks that will stand up to the elements in an entryway display.

“Our floral designers can make suggestions and understand the customer’s space, and what they’re looking for to try to get that perfect look,” Borjon said.

Think about adding a light source by incorporating white lights in garlands or spheres or displaying seasonal wrought-iron lanterns. Aside from giving your entryway or porch an elegant appearance, light will allow your display to be visible even after the sun goes down.

Something to consider when creating a design scheme for your porch or entryway is choosing multifunctional pieces that will carry you through the fall

and into the winter for a longer seasonal look.

Begin with fall-neutral decorations and color schemes that can be blended with more whimsical pieces for Halloween. Borjon recommends mixing traditional greens that could be used at Christmas with fall colors, such as bittersweet. When the fall season is over, remove the bittersweet and reuse the greens for an instant holiday look.

If you’re crunched for time or feeling uninspired to take on do-it-yourself decorating, Borjon offers a front porch design service that will arrange pots, garlands, baskets and wreaths for you — leaving you more time to sip hot apple cider, cheer on your favorite football team or enjoy the cool fall weather.

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Plant bulbs in October for spring color

By Linda A. Ditch Special to The Capital-Journal

As the cool, crisp days of autumn approach, most gardening minds turn to raking leaves, clearing out old, dead plants, and trying to get one more tomato from the vegetable garden.

However, now is the time to start planning for spring.

If you enjoy the beauty of colorful tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocuses after a long, dull winter, then those flower bulbs need to be planted now.

According to Shawnee County Extension’s garden calendar, October is bulbplanting month. Bulb planting is the perfect project for beginning gardeners, because bulbs are easy to get into the ground and have a high rate of blooming success.

LINDA A. DITCH/SPECIAL TO THE CAPITAL-JOURNAL

The best time to plant tulip and hyacinth bulbs is when the nighttime temperatures are between 40 and 50 degrees.

Into the ground

Bulbs should be planted when the nighttime temperatures are between 40 and 50 degrees, which will give the roots a head start and promote colorful blooms in the spring. If the ground is too warm, the bulbs may sprout early underground.

After you purchase your bulb selection, store them in a dark, cool, dry place until you’re ready to plant. Don’t keep them in plastic bags, which can promote mold, mildew and rot. Transfer them to paper bags or place between layers of newspaper. It is best to plant them soon after purchase.

Choose a sunny spot for your bulb planting bed. Be-

October is the perfect time to plant daffodils and other flower bulbs. cause the leaves on trees aren’t yet fully developed at the time bulbs bloom in the spring, you can plant bulbs in areas that will be shady when summer arrives.

You don’t have to pick one spot. In fact, planting bulbs in multiple groups around the yard will create a bigger spring color display.

Also, pick a spot with good

drainage, because a too-wet garden will cause the bulbs to rot.

Once you pick your spots, dig them up to loosen the soil. Mix in some compost to add nutrients, or mix in a bulb fertilizer.

Once the bed is ready, you can start planting.

To create a dramatic effect, plant a cluster of flowers in one spot. You can make small clusters of the same flowers or a huge mass filling a large area. Plant the shorter flowers in front of the tall ones, unless the tall ones bloom later. If that’s the case, you might consid-

PINING FOR TWINE Tired of having to locate and unknot twine when you’re working in the garden? Here’s a handy tip:

Place a ball of twine in a small clay pot, pull the end of the twine through the drainage hole, and set the pot upside

down near where you’re working. No more knots, and no more wasting time hunting for it.

SOURCE: PAUL JAMES, HOST OF “GARDENING BY THE YARD,” WWW.HGTV.COM

er planting them in front of the short ones so they hide the smaller plants’ wilting foliage.

Dig a wide hole to hold numerous bulbs for a mass planting, or use a special bulb planter to place one bulb at a time. How deep should you plant? The rule of thumb is two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall. Generally, this turns out to be 8 inches for big bulbs and 5 inches for small ones.

Place the bulb into the hole, root side down. If you have trouble deciding which is the root end, plant it on its side.

This may allow the flower to find its way up when the time comes. Also, make sure the bulbs are not touching to prevent rot. Then cover the bulbs with soil.

After planting, water the area to settle the soil down around the bulbs. It is also a good idea to lay chicken wire over the bed and cover with 1 to 2 inches of mulch.

Why? Squirrels love to eat many bulb varieties, and the wire will prevent the furry creatures from undoing your hard work. One exception is daffodils. Those bulbs are poisonous, so the critters will leave them alone.

Springtime tasks

In the spring, after the flowers bloom, be sure to cut off any wilted ones but leave the green foliage.

Those leaves will

send energy to the bulb for next year. Cut back the greenery only after it starts to turn yellow and die off.

Water the bulb bed once a week until the greenery dies off. The bulbs will go dormant in late spring and early summer, and stay that way until increased rainfall in autumn starts new root growth. Fall is also a good time to fertilize the beds with a bulb-friendly mixture.

If spring is too far away to satisfy your flower cravings, it’s possible to have blooms in the winter. Bulbs can be forced into an early bloom fairly easily. All you need is a 6-inch container.

Fill the container with a well-draining potting mix — a local garden center can point you in the right direction. Then place the bulb into the soil as you would in the garden. Water well, and keep in a cool place for eight to 10 weeks. A garage usually works well for this, but any place that is around 40 degrees will do nicely.

Remove from the cold area after eight to 10 weeks, water again, and set in a sunny spot. Soon the flowers will begin to sprout.

Whether in the garden or a sunny indoor window, you’ll have beautiful flowers this spring if you get to work now. This easy garden project will pay beautiful dividends for surviving another chilling Kansas winter.

Linda A. Ditch is a freelance writer from Topeka. She can be reached at lindaaditch@ gmail.com.

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Fall: Deer move at dusk Continued from 4 important. For example, being mindful of your location matters, Fox said.

“There are points along the road that deer are more likely to use,” he said. “For years, there were efforts to mark those spots to warn motorists.

Unfortunately, most signs do not cause drivers to change their behavior.”

Drivers should be more alert in these areas, and they need to slow down.

“The faster we drive, the

more likely we are to have an accident with a deer. And if that occurs at high speed, it’s more likely to be severe,” Fox added.

What should you do if you hit a deer? The Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism recommends the following: n Pull as far onto the shoulder as possible and turn on your flashers. n Call for help, and let the dispatcher know if the deer is still on the road. n Remain inside your vehicle for safety reasons.

Repellants may keep deer out Deer can get used to their foul smell or taste

By Dustin Lemmon Special to The Capital-Journal

Now that you know how to avoid deer on the roads (see page 4), you may also be wondering how to keep them from eating all of the vegetables you’ve been growing.

Cameron Rees, owner and general manager at

Skinner Garden Store Inc., 4237 N.W. Lower Silver Lake Road, said fencing is an option, but may not be your best, or easiest, defense against deer.

There are deer repellants you can purchase and put on your plants that will help keep deer away.

“They use a lot of things that smell bad or taste

bad,” Rees said of the repellants sold at his store.

The downside to repellants, he noted, is they can wear off or deer will simply become used to them.

“I honestly tell people, don’t stick with one,” Rees said. “I think people are better off bouncing around (with different repellants)

so the deer don’t get used to anything.”

Finding the right repellant to keep deer away from your plants may require trial and error. And you should be ready for deer behavior to change.

“It depends on what the deer want to eat,” he noted. “Try to figure out what you can and can’t plant.”

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Fall’s a good time to plant cole crops, trees, perennials

By Jan Biles jan.biles@cjonline.com

Don’t pack away the garden gloves or hang up the hoe just yet.

There’s still time to plant a fall garden.

Trees, shrubs, perennials and some vegetables can be planted now, according to Cameron Rees, owner and general manager at Skinner Garden Store Inc. “We have valuable planting time yet,” Rees said.

“The conversation about winterizing (the garden) should take place in November, around Thanksgiving time.”

tuce, cabbage, kale, broccoli and cauliflower, do well METRO CREATIVE CONNECTIONS in cooler temperatures and can weather the frosts associated with late fall.

“It can get into the 20s before they get hurt,” he said.

And although they need to be watered, fall vegetables and trees require less water than spring plantings because cooler temperatures at night help keep more moisture in the soil.

Brett Mulch also can be helpBlackburn, owner of Blackburn Nursery Inc., 4100 S.W. ful in retaining moisture 40th St., agrees. Cole crops, and insulating plants from such as brussel sprouts, let- colder temperatures.

Service Directory

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