JUNE 2011
Tamworth & District
LOCAL HORSE
Magazine
“THE MAGAZINE ON THE SCENE”
FREE MONTHLY
FREE Online Magazine www.tdlhorsemag.com.au
www.tamworthrural.com.au
CONTENTS
FROM THE EDITOR
4. FEATURE STORY - Preventing horse theft
So here we have it! Th e fourth edition of your LOCAL HORSE Ma g! I hope you are all enjoying them!
7. BREEDS - Miniature horses - All the little horses
Disciplines
If you have any thoughts on what you would like to see in the mag, or something you would like to share then ple ase don’t hesitate to write in.
10. Campdraft/Team Penning 14. Cutting 18. Dressage
This month we have a he ap of training tips, tricks & articles for you all. ...So happy reading!!!
22. Endurance
Cheers, Mel
36. Natural horsemanship
26. Eventing 30. Horse Drawn
PG 37
40. Polo/Polocrosse/Horseball 42. Riding groups/Pony clubs
I hope to meet you all sometime “Out & About” at the local events.
47. Kids corner 50. Rodeo/Barrel Horse 54. Showjumping
PG 15
56. Show Horse Agricultural 60. Western Performance/Reining
Articles
8. 2011 Miniature Horse National Show 11. 10 quick Team Penning & Sorting tips
PG 43
15. Q11 Leads the way - AQHA World Show 19. The art of training - From long & low to elevation 23. The sport of Endurance riding 27. Dressage for the Eventer - Kevin McNab
PG 51
32. Horse Drawn vehicle care & maintenance 37. Start Agility Training with whoa & A pedestal 43. Are your hands still or should they move? Kelly Tombs 48. Safety tips for kids that love horses 51. Quick fix for Barrel Racing nerves 55. Training the Showjumper - Training Problems
PG 61
57. Perfect Plaits 59. Keeping horses on a budget - Tips 61. Quick tips for improving your trail class
DEADLINE FOR ARTWORK 17th of each month
Printed by: FAST PROOF PRESS - (07) 5578 4722
63. Management to avoid Tying Up - John Kohnke
Service Directory
55-56. Service Directory & Classifieds
Disclaimer Tamworth & District Local Horse Magazine have taken every care in preparation of this magazine. Therefore it may not be copied in part or whole for reproduction, without said magazines written authority. While we take every care in the preparation and accuracy of its contents we are not responsible for any mistakes or misprints in any article or advertisement, nor are we responsible for any errors by others. Tamworth & District Local Horse Magazine accepts no liability resulting from omissions, errors, misprints or failure to publish any advertisement.
Contacts:
Cover shot: By MS Equipix www.msequipix.com
Editor & Event coverage/ Photographer: Mel Spittall 0409 987 152 info@tdlhorsemag.com.au
View each edition online at www.tdlhorsemag.com.au 3
Could you imagine having your furry, four legged friend just disappear out of his paddock one night!.....not something i would really like to image happening to me. But the fact of the matter is that horse theft has been taking place here ever since horses first set hoof on Aussie soil with the First Fleet. Even bushrangers like Ned Kelly regularly helped themselves to other peoples horses! Are you one of the many that think it can’t or wouldn’t happen to you? Think again! Unfortunately horse (and other livestock) theft is quite common in Australia. So, you may be thinking to yourself, now why would someone want to steal my horse? Well obviously the main reason would be for cash. A horse can quickly be sold at sale yards and the thief will more often than not, never be found. So then you say....Well, what happens to stolen horses? Like we said above, unfortunately some do end up going cheaply for meat. Some may be sold on as riding mounts and can end up getting re-sold several times making them even more difficult to trace. Thieves are interested in a short-term profit and don’t care about where the horse ends up. However, horses don’t only get stolen from paddocks, some are leased to what seem like legitimate people and end up being sold on and unable to be traced.
• • • • • • • • • • •
Always report a horse theft or disappearance immediately to the appropriate law enforcement agency in your area. The police will usually contact the Livestock Squad. The first 24-48 hours are critical. Provide a written description (up to date id chart) and recent photographs of your horse to livestock auctions in your area and in surrounding towns and districts. Always distribute flyers offering a reward, if you can, for information leading to the safe return of your horse and hand out flyers at nearby horse events and shows. Try to contact local media with your story. Use your own contacts and ring around, eg. local Pony Clubs, sale yards, horsey friends, vets, farriers, local radio stations and councils. Check horse classifieds and place an ad in the Lost and Found section of your local/regional newspaper. Post on horsey Australian internet forums such as Eques, Cyberhorse and other horsey forums. Make a facebook page about your lost horse. It is AMAZING the rate at which word spreads through the horsey world via facebook! Place a ‘Stolen Horse’ ad in Horse magazines. Don’t give up! One stolen horse was located at a rodeo SEVEN YEARS after being stolen. Finally, consider visiting equine slaughterhouses in your area and in neighbouring areas. Many horse thefts result in the horse being quickly sold at these places. There have been several cases of horse theft recovery at these facilities when horse owners have acted quickly enough.
Keep a detailed file on your horse. This file should include an ID chart, current photos of your horse taken at different times of the year, proof of ownership (sale receipt or lease agreement) and any breed registration papers. Describe your horse so that a non-horsey person would have no difficulty identifying him. Include details such as scars and hair whorls (usually found on the forehead, neck and flank areas). The photographs should be clear and current and show your horse from all four sides to highlight his identifying marks.
Identification methods aid in both recovering your animal after theft, and deterring thieves from taking your animal in the first place. The number one deterrent for a horse thief is a visual brad (although some may try to alter them).
Studs have their own brand and most Thoroughbreds & Standardbreds are also branded. This visible means of horse marking provides legal identification.
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Many horses carry some kind of hot iron brand, which is where a symbol or series of numbers are applied to the horse using hot irons.
Freeze branding has been used since the 1960’s. It’s the process of using a super-cold branding iron to alter the colour pigment-producing cells. The result is that white hair, in stead of coloured hair, grows at the brand site.
This is an invisible means of identification, so won’t act as much of a deterrent, but is still a means of legally identifying your horse and is also now accepted by many Australian breed societies. The chip is encased in a glass bead the size of a grain of rice and implanted by a vet in the nuchal ligament of the horse’s neck, which runs along the crest from the ears to the withers. Once it’s been implanted, it’s not visible to the naked eye. The chip contains information and can be read by a special scanner with records kept at a central base. If you have your horse microchipped be sure to register the microchip with a national registry or your horse breed association.
You will often find racehorses/ex-racehorses with tattoos in their upper lip. These tattoos need not be painful if carried out correctly and if it is, then it will only last a few minutes. They can, however, fade in time and occasionally the numbers/letters “run into each other” It may be better to have the horse micro-chipped? If your contemplating hoof tattoos, well obviously they grow out.
Thieves will usually target “easy to get to” horses such as those on agistment or in paddocks that aren’t well supervised. • • • • • • • •
If you keep your horse on your property maintain privacy. By this we mean, plan your landscaping to conceal the paddocks from nearby roads, but keep the entrances to gates in full view. Erect good quality, sturdy fencing around your horses paddock or pasture and ensure there is no direct access through the fence from a roadway. Wire fencing is easily cut by thieves and electric tape held by plastic posts can easily be laid flat and covered by a float ramp. Keep your gates locked if your horses are turned out of a night or your away (make sure the keys are accessible in the event of a fire or other emergency) Post No Trespassing signs around our property. Install security lighting around stable areas. Dangerous dog signs are also a great deterant as are barking dogs (who are also great for alerting you!). Network with your neighbours and keep an eye on each others’ property and horses. If you agist your horse at a paddock that does not have 24hr supervision then change your routines often, eg check your horse at different times, not the same time every day.
•
Don’t leave a halter on your horse. Head collars make it easy for thieves to catch horses. This is obviously a safety issue, too: A halter might get caught on something and cause your horse to be trapped. Also, do not leave halters hanging near gates where thieves might enter.
•
Don’t ever sell a horse and allow it to go off your property until cheques have cleared and if leasing, make sure you get a signed lease agreement and do a thorough background check on the potential lessee.
•
Don’t leave horse floats in or near your horse’s paddock which could be used to transport your stolen horse!
If your horse is very valuable or precious to you then insure it! Most people insure their assets. Some do so for commercial reasons, others for sentimentality. In today’s world of ever escalating bloodstock values, for some insurance has become an automatic or instinctive decision,an investment in protecting an investment.
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What’s on calendar Breeds Section June 2011
B r e e d s
S e c t i o n
Gulargambone Show 4th June Mandy Jones Ph: Mobile: 0429 369884
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Magic Millions 2011 National yearling sale 5th - 7th June National racehorse sale 8th June www.magicmillions.com.au Warren Show 11th June Sue Wilson Ph: 02 68474548 Email: warrenshow@hotmail.com
For more information on our Special Stallion Edition please see page 35
All the little horses....
The Miniature Horse is a unique breed and is not to be confused with a Miniature Pony or Shetland Pony. Miniature horses are found in many nations. The designation of miniature horse is determined by the height of the animal, which, depending on the particular breed registry involved, is usually less than 34–38 inches (86–97 cm). While miniature horses are the size of a very small pony, many retain horse characteristics and are considered “horses” by their respective registries. They have various colours and coat patterns. In Australia, Miniature Horses are one of the fastest growing breeds, as their size, temperament and character endears them to people of all ages and from all walks of life. Children are naturally attracted to them and people with small acreage are able to support and breed them. Former horse owners can continue their love affair with horses, feeling less challenged by the burden of caring for a larger equine. Miniature Horses are shown in halter, harness classes and performance events including trail and jumping. Miniature horses are friendly and interact well with people. For this reason they are often kept as family pets, though they still retain natural horse behavior, including a natural fight or flight instinct, and must be treated like an equine, even if they primarily serve as a companion animal. They are also trained as service animals, akin to assistance dogs for people with disabilities. While miniature horses can be trained to work indoors, they are still real horses and are healthier when allowed to live outdoors (with proper shelter and room to run) when not working with humans. They are generally quite hardy, often living longer on average than some full-sized horse breeds; the average life span of miniature horses is from 25 to 35 years.
Horse or pony?
There is an ongoing debate over whether a miniature horse should possess horse or pony characteristics. This is a common controversy within the miniature horse world. While technically any member of Equus caballus under 14 hands (142.24 cm) is termed a “pony,” many breeds, including some miniature breeds, actually retain a horse phenotype and their breed registry therefore classifies them as horses. Some miniature horse breed standards prefer pony characteristics such as short, stout legs and elongated torsos, while others prefer ordinary horse proportions.
Showing
The preparation and presentation of miniature horses is the same as large breeds, hence members spend many hours grooming and exercising these small horses so that they may be shown. The Miniature Horse can be shown in a freshly-clipped coat or clipped with a new coat established or in a natural condition. Mane and tail are to be shown free flowing in Halter and inhand events. Hooves to be unshod in the halter and in-hand events. Plaiting, braiding and suitable decorative trim is permissible only in Performance Events. The Miniature Horse is a animal of very high intelligence, curiosity, alertness and friendliness. It is a rarity for even a mature stallion to be shown in a bit - they should not need them! Most often they are shown in a fine show-halter to accentuate and highlight the fine head and trim build.
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2011 Miniature Horse National Show Photographs by Delwyn Moss
Last month the Independent Miniature Horse Registry Inc (IMHR) hosted the annual Miniature Horse National Show. This event was held at the Australian Equine and Livestock Entertainment Centre Tamworth and was a raging success. IMHR was formed in Australia in 2005 by a small group of passionate miniature horse enthusiasts keen on promoting miniature horse ownership for all.
This particular breed makes the perfect companion or serious competition horse for the young or the young at heart. Due to their size they are suitable for all ages and abilities. With a natural intelligence and athletic ability this horse really is the Horse for Everyone. This National event was specifically held for the Miniature breed and saw 483 entrants compete for national titles in a large range of categories over five vigorous days. Competitors competed based on their height. Miniature is for those horses that will mature under 34.5”, Small Horse is for those horses that will mature under 38.5” and Little Horse is for those maturing up to 10.2hh.
Events included:
Rob Barnes NSW exhibiting Paleface Orin National Champion Fault and Out Showing his style and athletic ability to win this popular event.
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Above: Lisa Herve, WA with RZRA Knights Tesoro, Imported from USA. The family bought 7 Horses from WA to compete, topping off Winning Supreme Senior Exhibit.
Peter Scriven QLD driving Tyrone Park Zyera High Point Harness Horse of the show.
Day 1 – Thursday 28th April: National Youth Events, SIRES Futurities, AMHA Australian Titles, National Harness and Senior Jumping – Fault & Out Day 2 – Friday 29th April: National Showmanship, Miniature Halter, Performance – Hunter, Classic Trot – Miniature, Senior Jumping – Six Bar and Liberty – Miniature Day 3 – Saturday 30th April: AMHR Australian Titles, Small Horse Halter, Little Horse Halter, Senior Jumping – Show Jumper, Performance – Lunge line, Liberty – Small & Little Horse, Performance – Trail and Miniature Ponies Day 4 – Sunday 1st May: Amateur Showcase, Coloured Classes, Group Classes, Classic Head and Classics Day 5 – Monday 2nd May: Double Shot
Results:
‘Congratulations to all entrants’ With 548 classes plus National Championships the results are too numerous to include all of them but a full report on all class winners is available on the website www.imhr.com.au
Right: Debbie Sloan NZ with Sherwood T4U It Must Be Magic making the long trip from New Zealand to take out the Supreme Junior Exhibit.
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Campdraft/Team Penning
What’s on calendar Campdrafting/Team Penning
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Australian Bushmans Campdraft & Rodeo Association www.abcra.com.au Australian Campdraft Association www.campdraft.com.au Team Penning Australia Inc www.teampenningaustralia.com Tamworth Team Penning www.tamworthteampenning.com
June 2011 Campdraft NSW
ULMARRA CAMPDRAFT Points 4th June ALAN WATKINS 02 6642 5317 ST JOSEPHS P&F CAMPDRAFT - NEW DATE Points CAROLYN JAMES 02 6553 5577
4th June
COONAMBLE CAMPDRAFT Points 11th June MICHELLE SHIELDS (04) 2821 2830
June/July 2011 Team Penning Koobah Horse Arena - Tamworth 19th June Team Penning Australia Debby 0409 446 815 Koobah Horse Arena - Tamworth 17th July Team Penning Australia Debby 0409 446 815 Central West Team Penning (Canowindra) 11-12th June Mid Western Working Horse Assoc - Mudgee 25th June Tamworth Team Penning dates 12 June 26 June 2011 Team Sorting at Echo Hills 10 July 2011 Lisa Wilson 02 6762 3428
10 QUIck
TEAM PENNING & SORTING TIPS! Just quickly, lets go over the essence of what Team Penning is about. Teamwork, speed, skill and communication all tie in with a little luck for the sport of team penning. It all started years ago with a practical objective. In order to brand, doctor or transport single cows, riders first had to separate them from the herd. As animals of prey, separating a single cow from the safety of the herd was not an easy task. Add two riding teammates and a ticking clock to the mix, and you’ve got the present-day basics for team penning. 1. Know your horse, ride your horse, become one. 2. It doesn’t matter the colour, the breed, the size or the age of your horse! Your horse doesn’t need 5 years of professional training to sort or penn, they just need you to believe and trust in them! 3. Focus on what you want! Not on what you don’t want! Always looking and focusing on the next numbered cow! What you focus on happens! 4. Make a game plan with your team mates before you go in. 5. Start slow, if you don’t start a fire, you don’t have to put one out! 6. Adapt, accept a role, holder, sorter, rotate 1st in the herd or last in the herd and remember the word “Team”. More power in We than in Me! 7. Always communicate with your teammates, calling out the next number of cattle, slow down, step up, move over. 8. Learn some cattle sense. Simply working with cows on the ground is one way to learn. You learn how to position yourself to get the cattle to move in the direction you want them to go. 9. Another way to learn more about Team Penning is by attending competitions. Experiencing the event and watching the techniques of other penners can help familiarise you with the sport. It can also be a good way to make contacts with other team penners. Organized team penning competitions take place all over the country throughout the year. 10. Attend a beginner or novice clinic. Clinics can help eliminate frustration by helping newcomers learn the most effective methods of penning. Clinics also offer a place to meet other penners and possible partners for competitions. Just play the game and HAVE FUN!
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What’s on calendar Cutting Cutting
National Cutting Horse Association www.ncha.com.au
June/July 2011
National Cutting Horse Association Futurity 2nd - 12th June 38th NCHA Tamarang Futurity - AELEC
This month our Cutting section hosts coverage of the AQHA World Show Downunder Q11
Local NCHA affiliate clubs Cutting
Peel Valley Cutting Club 02 67 771 116 0428 772 034
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Walcha Cutting Club 02 67 787 327 0437 301 069
Coaches & Trainers Tony Ernst - Cowboy Logic 02 6768 0151 tony@tonyernstcowboylogic.com.au www.tonyernstcowboylogic.com.au For more information on Cowboy Logic or Tonys Cutting Development Days please contact Tony or visit his website.
Q11
leads the way
Q11 was something special this year. With around 500 horses competing over 13 days and $121,000 in prize money, there was a class for every type of Quarter Horse competitor. AQHA President Peter Bellden said the event was a force to be reckoned with this year. “For the last few years we have been working to make this show bigger and better. This year we saw numbers increase and more people come out of the woodwork to compete against the best in our industry,” said Bellden. “It’s important that we hold a National event such as ours to showcase to the world the strength of the bloodlines we now have in Australia and the tough competition we produce.” Out of 172 classes it was the Junior Horse Cutting that saw the most entries with more than 36 entrants in the class. The horse that took the title of National Champion went to Way Too Smart and Heath Sinclair, followed by a close second with Winderadeen Whisky Cat and rider Jason Leitch. In total there were 68 amateurs that competed, 23 Select Amateurs and 42 Youth members over the duration of the show. For the Youth the largest event was the Youth Trail 15-18 years with 19 entries in the class, and it was Kodi Andersen who took out the title on her expert trail horse Breakin Hearts and in close reserve was Ashley Vandenbogert with her reliable horse Denims the Menace. For the Amateurs it was the Horsemanship class that was the largest contingent with 29 entries but it was Annette Boyd and Annlee Light My Fire who produced a pattern of perfection with Melissa Benson and Winderadeen Passin Blue in reserve. In the Amateur events that followed more than 202 entries were recorded in the western events with 142 western classes also recorded for the youth riders. It was evident that western events clearly dominated the show program, with hunter under saddle events the next highest contender. Some further highlights from the 13 day event included the Yugilbar sponsored $24,000 Super Cow Horse Challenge, with the event being won by Soda Justice and Michael Wilson with a final score of 197 with Playgirl Freckles
Article by Cie’Jai Leggett and Mark Buttsworth in close reserve.
In the Open Non-Pro Cutting it was Allan Hunter with Oaks Unchained Melody who cleaned up the pen with an award winning run. He scored 74 under both judges and was ahead of the competition by a whisker to win the title of Open Non-Pro Cutting Champion. In the western pleasure events, the Two Year Old Western Pleasure which after 12 in the class saw Stylish Invitation and Holly Johnson take out the win, with Bruce Almighty and Tim French in reserve. Stylish Invitation and Holly Johnson The largest western pleasure class of Q11 was hands down the Senior Horse Western Pleasure, with 26 in the class the win was sweet success for Pawsitively Indulgent and Doug Hill. In the hunters the Two Year old that stood out from the crowd was Winderadeen Somelilies ridden by Robyn Edgar with Charming Invitation and Kristy Mobberly in reserve. But the largest hunter class of the show was again in the Senior Horses with RQH Who’s Ur Daddy and Kyle Mobberly (pictured above left) in first place above 19 others. Overall the show that ran for almost two weeks was a huge success and saw some competitors travel more than 4,000km’s to attend. A big thank you goes to the sponsors of Q11 who kindly donated prizes worthy of National competitors. Q11 was something special but as the year passes it will be forever remembered as a strong event that held its own on the Australian Quarter Horse circuit showing the value and versatility of the Australian Quarter Horse we have today.
Soda Justice and Michael Wilson
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Dressage
Dressage NSW What’s on calendar www.dressagensw.com.au Tamworth Dressage Club Dressage www.tamworthdc.equestrian.org.au
Dressage NSW June 2011 5th June Hawkesbury Dressage Club O/A PrelimFEI SIEC Kate Watson 0418 263 110 www.hawkesburydressage.com.au 5th June Bowral Dressage Club O/A Bong Bong Terry Hams 0414 621 631 www.bowraldressage.com 5th June Eurobodalla Dressage Club O/A PrepMed Moruya Hetty Mundy 4473 9013 www.eurobodallada.equestrian.org.au 5th June Singleton Dressage Club A/O P-Med Singleton Carol Cairney 0409 743 718 www.singletondressageclub.org 5th June Orana Equestrian Club T Dubbo Sharon Kirby 0428 638 101 www.oranaec.equestrian.org.au 5th June Young Dressage Assoc O/A Prep - FEI Bendick Murrel Karen Glendenning 6341 1148 www.youngda.equestrian.org.au
Dressage
5th June Bulahdelah O/A Bulahdelah Kerry Turnbull 4997 8168 www.bulahdelahdressage.org.au 11th June Goulburn Dressage Club T Prep-Elem Goulburn Jan Jeffery 4822-0654 www.goulburndressageclub.equestrian. org.au
11/12th June DNSW Event O/A N-GP Clarendon Karen Lever 4576 7996 www.dressagensw.com.au 12th June Namoi Horse Assoc O/A P-GP Gunnedah Kate Scicluna 0408 560 210 17-19th June Christoph Hess Rider Clinic &Judges/ rider Workshop SIEC Prue Spurrett 02 9449 2318 www.dressagensw.com.au 19th June Northside Riding Club O/A Prep-Med St Ives Jess Canabou 0434 528 817 www.northsideridingclub.org.au 19th June Dungog Dressage Club O/A Dungog Michelle Earnshaw 02 4987 0044 www.dungogdressageclub.webs.com 19th June Mudgee Dressage Club T Mudgee Yasmin Crockett 0448726304 e:yasmincrockett@bigpond.com 26th June Galston Riding Club O/A Prep-Med Galston Mary Werick 0402 974 449 www.galstonequestrianclub.org.au 26th June Southcoast Equestrian Club O/A Albion Park 1-Jun Frances Simmonds 4236 0680 www.southcoastequestrianclub.com.au
25th June Manning Valley Dressage & Hacking Club O/A Prep-Int 1 Gloucester Ross Green 6550 2568 www.mvdhc.com 26 th June Somersby Equestrian Club O/A PrepAdv Il Cadore, Somersby5-Jun Margie Abbott 0418 114 200 www.somersbyequestrianclub.org.au 26th June Sugarloaf Cobbity Eq Club O/A PrepPSG Cobbitty Pam Wood 0417 677 638 www.scec-dressage.com 26th June National Capital Equestrian Club OA CRC-Canberra Liz Pugh 6287-1032 www.ncec.asn.au CODE: CH: Championship; O: Official; A: Associate; YH: Young Horse; P:Pony; F: Freestyle; S: Seminar; M: Members day; T: Training day. Levels: Pr:Preliminary N: Novice etc...
Coaches & Trainers KP Performance Horses -Benji Dooley Dressage & jumping lessons Pony Club to Prix St Georges Can travel Ph: 0438 819 322
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10 yr old T/b mare. 15.3hh. EA registered. Microchipped “Dance Her Way” is a pleasure to own. Easy to catch, shoe, float, worm. Nothing upsets her. Always placed whether Dressage, Hacking or Pony Club. Make a great Inter School Mount. Trail rides alone or with company. For sale through no fault of her own, Rider winding down. 0403780502.
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26th June Central West Dressage Group O Bradgate Park, Orange Cathie Drury-Klein 6365 4267 www.centralwestdg.equestrian.org.au
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The Art of Training ~ Part 1 By Bert Hartog
To write in few words about the training which will take some years is a little pretentious. But let me try to explain how we build the top line of the horse. We will concentrate on the strength of the back, the neck on the top and the stomach muscles underneath. Basically we will concentrate on the title of this article even though one might say it is a little narrow in content. But in the next few months we will discuss many other aspects and exercises that help in the building of the outline of the horse. By just concentrating on one aspect of the training of the horse we can expand on it and try to understand it fully. I will try to explain the value of the exercises, how we set them up and how it effects the development of the horse. We will start with the young horse. The first thing the young horse needs to learn is to carry himself with a rider on top. This is not as easy for the horse as one might think. The moment we climb on board we change the centre of gravity upwards. This takes quite some adjusting from the young horse. Being reasonably weak still because it is not fully grown yet, we make the horse top-heavy by riding it. The best outline for the first few months is the outline the horse chooses himself. After all, the horse knows best how to help himself staying upright. So, if a horse sticks his nose forward or perhaps carries the head too high, we must leave him to it. We must keep a steady rein contact. We try to establish a relation between our hands and the horse’s mouth through the reins. At this stage we need not do more. When a few months have passed we can start with a long, low outline. We must try to lower the head of the horse first. At first without any further request. To achieve that, we should carry our hands fairly low and by moving the bit softly through the mouth. Each time after we move the bit a little through the mouth we must reach forward with our hands to encourage the horse to take the bit forward. This is an invitation. We make the horse concentrate on the bit by moving it a little. The young horse with a green mouth may not immediately realise what we mean with this and try to ignore it or resist it by throwing his head upwards. To achieve a reaction from the horse we must keep asking the horse quite frequently. Move the bit a little bit as to keep it alive followed by reaching forward...two steps later again...two steps later again etc. We must keep on asking the horse as it were until he reacts. The moment the horse answers our request we keep our hands still with steady rein contact to reward the horse. The reason we want to try to keep the head of the horse low is to encourage the horse to bring the back up. We can compare this with people who try to carry someone piggyback and then try to play knights on horseback. Most of us have tried to do that at one stage or another during our childhood. People carrying another person on their back will always round their back to try to put the
load “on” their back. Not many people will have their back hollow. However, just try to carry someone on your back and make your back hollow. You will find that it is a far more difficult to carry a load with a hollow back than it is with your back rounded. In this way we must try to encourage the horse to make his back round so he is more capable to carry his load. As the neck and spine are connected it is logical to assume that when we lower the horse’s head the back goes up. Some people may start to get worried now, because they have experienced that lowering the head is the preparation for bucking. Horses that buck are usually scared of the riders so we must use the first few months to create a friendship with the horse. That way he has no reason to fear us. It is better to ride the horse in a slight light seat at first, to encourage it to round his back upwards. With young horses we must give ourselves only one task at the time. When that task has been completed we add another one to it or make it better. In this case the head of the young horse needs to go down first. The nose is still allowed to stay forward for a little while, which means that the horse is therefore on the forehand. Once the horse has understood the exercise and has become strong enough to keep the head low for a period of time we can start to ask for some relaxation of the jaw. When we ask for softness of the jaw with the head low it looks as if the horse is behind the bit. To encourage the horse to let go of the jaw we must make some half halts to encourage the hind legs to step under more after which we should ride the horse forward again. Keep on repeating this exercise a number of times until the horse has moved the hind legs forward sufficiently to be able to shorten the outline of his neck . The whole horse has become shorter as it seems. The hind legs are more engaged and the nose of the horse is further back. We could draw a circle and keep the horse inside this circle. The exercise has more value now because with the hind legs more engaged the pelvis is tucked under. In front the horse has brought his nose in by flexing his poll in the length of the horse. The top line of the neck is pulled tight by the position of the nose and the long muscles of the back are pulled tight by the tucking under of the pelvis.
A mistake that is often seen in the early stages is that the riders forgets to sit upright after first sitting a little light to encourage the horse to round his back. Of course, by leaning forward the rider can not influence the quarters of the horse. In one of my earlier articles which discusses the development of the paces I indicated that by sitting upright we encourage the horse to keep his hind legs engaged. By sitting upright and keeping the rhythm low the horse must use his hind legs to push himself upwards and forward.
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With the head low, the horse would like to increase the rhythm and use the hind legs more for propelling than for carrying. It is better to work the young horse shorter and correct than to allow him to run. If we never allow the horse to run he will never learn that this is a way to escape our effort to make him use his hind legs. This slow work balanced over four legs is quite an effort for the horse. Anything that is an effort must increase the muscle-power. In this case the stretching of the top line of the neck and the back will make these muscles work quite hard. It will not take long and we can see an improvement in the neck and back of the horse. In the early stages the young horse will not yet pick up his legs very high. He may well draw lines on the ground when he moves his legs forward. The roundness of the paces is mainly created by the strength of the tendons. The slow movement of the pace causes the horse to sink through the fetlocks and stretch the tendons with every pace. When the tendons are stretched they contain a lot of energy and when this energy is released it pushes the legs upwards. The stretching and releasing must compensate each other....a deep stretch causes a higher leg action. All exercises must be started at the beginning so if a horse does not pick up the legs it is just the beginning stage of the exercise. The slow movement of the horse will, in due course, improve the strength of the tendons but above all, the slow movement will involve the back of the horse by making it swing upwards and downward as well as sideways with every pace. The fact that these muscles are moving means that they are working and slowly they will get stronger and the paces will become more rounded and expressive. The slow trotting is quite a powerful exercise for the young horse and we as trainers must realise when the going is getting too hard and the horse needs a rest. It is important that we realise that it is better to work for a shorter period in correct outline than for longer period with the horse running along completely on the forehand. “ An exercise has no value unless performed correctly”. Next month we will start with looking at the outline of the horses neck and continue our discussion on going from long & low to elevation”...... About the Author - Bert Hartog
Qualifications: Equestrian Australia Level II Dressage Coach, FEI Dressage Rider Equestrian Australia Coach Educator & Assessor Cert. IV Workplace Trainer and Assessor Advanced Diploma Business Management & Hospitality
www.horseridingcoach.com
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Together with his partner, Marion, Bert owns a riding centre which they have operated for 20 years teaching more than 250 students per week, on only 7.5 acres, was a teaching place “par excellence” for riders and trainee coaches. The profile of the riding centre was well known all over Australia. He is a well known clinician and author of the book “The Art of Training”. Bert also published numerous articles on dressage techniques in several Australian Horse Magazines, specialising in the Biomechanics of the Horse and the Seat of the Rider. Bert & Marion felt the only way the equestrian industry can be improved is by creating properly trained operators & staff, so they took it upon themselves to write a correspondence course for riding instructors. It was an enormous task and it became a large document with many drawings, photos & supported with several videos. It took some 5 years to write. They founded their Registered Training Organisation & the instructors course has been approved since 1998. His explanations are progressive & without jargon giving you the knowledge you need to give real content to your coaching sessions or your ride.
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Endurance
Photograph courtesy of Jo Arblaster/Animal Focus
What’s on calendar
Endurance
June 2011
NSW Endurance Riders Association www.nswera.asn.au Tamworth & District Endurance Club www.tamworthanddistrictenduranceclub.org.au
NSW State Championships - St Albans 160/40/20 Kerry Spratt 4340 2412 0412 014 430
11th - 12th June
Light Horse, Harden 25th - 26th June 80/40-60 elev/20 Kate Smith 0411 795 278 411795278 or Gordon Smith 0432 605 928 Kundabung 26th June 80/40/20 Bob Locke
July 2011
Endurance
Sussex Inlet 2nd - 3rd July 80/40/20 Wendy Jesson 4423 0552 Lorraine Bentley 4422 6335
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Dunedoo Central West Zone 2nd July 80/42/20 Deanna Trevena 6886 6232 Upper Corindi dual affil with QLD 80/40/20 Megan Matters 6649 2836
16th - 17th July
Putty Valley 17th July 80/40/20 Mark Dunmill 4732 1007 Coolamon 24th July 80/40/20 Michael Leary 6927 3427 Bago Bush Ride, Wauchope 24th July 80/40/20 Robyn Coombes 6585 6761 Ros Ryan 0418 848 019
Photo courtesy Jo Arblaster - Animal Focus
tion aims to complete a predetermined distance over varying terrain in a given time to finish sound and well to the satisfaction of stringent veterinary inspections and achieve the status of ‘FTC’ or fit to continue. There are events of many distances and difficulties, catering for children still on the lead through to competitors with international aspirations. ‘Introductory rides’ are non-competitive rides of a distance up to 20 km, with many clubs hosting 10 and even 5 km events for the dedicated parent and lead-liner. Progressing on, training rides are non-competitive events of 40km, while “endurance rides” are events of 80km or more culminating in championship events of 160km in a day.
I’m hoping this article will give a brief introduction to endurance riding, so that the many people that wish to find out more or would like to try endurance will take that first step into one of the most rewarding and horse orientated sports available. Endurance riding is unique in the world of equestrian pursuits for a few reasons, firstly it is completely egalitarian, the country’s best ride side by side with the beginner, both sharing the common interest and the love of the bush and our horses. In our ever increasingly suburban world it offers a great opportunity to share the Australian Bush from the outback to our high mountains with just you and your horse, which in our time is something very special. It offers an opportunity for families to compete together from young children to grandparents and to compete at a pace that suits the individual whether they want to go for a slow 40 km non-competitive training ride or challenge the leaders at the Quilty. First, I would like to give you a brief history of the sport in Australia. The sport of endurance riding began in Australia in 1966 with the advent of the first Tom Quilty Endurance Ride. This ride evolved out of a conversation between two Australian Legends, the famous bushman R.M.Williams and the renowned cattle and horseman Tom Quilty. R.M. wanted to promote the sport of endurance riding in Australia and Tom Quilty thought it a good thing that modern horse men had the chance to prove their worth, by riding 100 miles in a day, as their outback predecessors had done in their everyday working life. This chance discussion created one of the most respected and challenging equestrian events in the world The Tom Quilty Gold Cup. Today the sport has evolved into one of the most popular and unique equestrian sports in the country. Endurance riding allows participation at levels from the very beginner on to local, state, national and international levels.
Endurance riding is a sport in which a horse and rider combina
Photo courtesy Jo Arblaster - Animal Focus
The best endurance riding saddle available is the one that fits your horse correctly. Riders compete in stock saddles, specially designed endurance saddles, dressage saddles and any other type of saddle you can think of, they have all been tried at one time or another. The most important thing is the saddle you use must be in good repair and fit your horse correctly. It must also be comfortable for you to ride in because any rubs or soreness you experience can make you ride unevenly and this will affect your horse. Endurance Saddle cloths are generally woollen fibre and shaped to fit the saddle. I have found this essential, as woollen fibres allow the horse’s back to breathe. Having the cloth saddle shaped, more of the horse’s skin surface is exposed to the air which aids in cooling. We only use saddle cloths that have loops for the girth to go through and ties so they are tied to the saddle to avoid movement. Any bridle can be used as long as it fits well. Some people opt to ride in halters and bit-less bridles, however we use endurance bridles which are made from synthetic material along the lines of old military bridles. These bridles allow the bridle head stall and bit to be removed and the halter section to be left on the horse, which is great when you are rushing to get water on your horse and get him strapped for vetting. Light weight aluminium or plastic stirrups are generally used, either caged (enclosed) or not. Girths are extremely important, due to the risk of rubs or galls and for that reason, string girths, leather or webbing girths should not be used unless covered. The best type of girth is one of the many anti-gall girths available on the market. Most endurance riders use breastplates, I have found this necessary because some of the terrain you cover will make your saddle slip. Having said that, using a breastplate or cropper will never replace a good fitting saddle but it will help keep the saddle in place up and down hills. As for the rider, it is mandatory to wear a helmet that complies with the relevant Australian Standards at all times whilst mounted as well as suitable enclosed footwear. Clothing should be equestrian style, bearing in mind the safety aspects of sun burn and cold weather.
Simone and Matthew Krahnen own Glengannon Arabians at Josephville via Beaudesert. Along with their children Erin, Colleen & Connor they compete at state, national and international levels. They also train and breed Arabian horses for endurance and show.
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Bitless Bridles –
Fad or Fabulous?
For thousands of years the use of bits has been common place and, in a lot of disciplines, mandatory. As we have continued to discover more advanced ways of caring for our horses, the use of bits still strangely remains the norm. This is despite the facts we know about the damage they can cause to the mouth and teeth of the horse, not to mention the psychological impacts through abuse of the bit. It’s not really until we are on the receiving end of some head tossing or shaking, bucking or some severe pulling that we start asking questions about our choice of gear and sadly even then we miss the most common cause of the horse’s reactions – the bit. So what’s the answer? A bitless bridle of course! There are many styles available now but one that has been around for several years (and is made in Australia) is the NoBit Bridle™. Originally developed for the Australian market. Probably the most common reason people switch to bitless riding is for the welfare of the horse. While owners may be getting good results from a bit, they believe that the horse would be happier without that metallic intrusion into one of the horse’s most sensitive areas. We spend so much time and effort fitting our saddles, looking after their feet and maintaining the cor-
The NoBit Bridle™ is now used all over the world on thousands of horses. rect feeding regimes to ensure our horses are comfortable and healthy, but then we tend to overlook such a crucial area of the horse – his mouth. Even the lightest of contact on the reins has impact on the bit, causing pressure to the bars of the mouth, not to mention contact against the teeth or on any remnants of wolf teeth, causing discomfort and in some cases outright pain.
will be doing when working bitless. What you may find is that he is more relaxed and happier in his work because the bit is not there anymore. In fact, this is something we see often, even with bad pullers, along with improved balance and performance through a more natural head and neck position. The NoBit Bridle™ is not just for pleasure riders either. Many forms of competition allow the use of bitless bridles and it is starting to become common to see them at events as more and more riders look for better options for their horses. They are being used by riders as young as two years of age and on horses performing show jumping, cross country, endurance and even thoroughbred and harness racing. We also see a lot of dressage riders training bitless to help refine their work, even though to date bits are still mandatory in this discipline. Thankfully overseas, National versions of the FEI are trialing bitless bridles in competition dressage so we may soon see a change in Australia as well. So while bitless riding may still be classed as a fashionable fad by some, the choice to try bitless is for sound valid reasons for the wellbeing of our horses and not just for good looks! Written by: Nicole Rosevear
The second most common reason people make the transition to bitless is “behavioural problems”. Many bit related problems are hard to diagnose because there doesn’t seem to be any logical connection between the bit and the behaviour. All too commonly we reach for a stronger or different bit when our horse shows reluctance to stop or perform to our standards. Just think about how much money you have wasted on the eternal search for the perfect bit. Making the transition to bitless is easier than you may think. Provided your horse is yielding well to pressure then the NoBit Bridle™ should work well with your horse, regardless of age, breed, discipline or your experience level. Because the horse’s reactions are instinctive and are based on the halter training (learning to give to pressure) that we give them from a young age, there is little or no retraining required for the majority of horses to understand and make the change from a bitted bridle to the NoBit Bridle™. And to you it feels just like a normal bridle, except that less effort is usually required to get the same result. Will you still be able to achieve a correct frame, contact and collection while using the NoBit Bridle™? Absolutely! Collection is something your horse will naturally achieve in the paddock, he does not need a bit to be able to perform something he does naturally. As riders we really need to replace the term “on the bit” with “working into the bridle” as that is what your horse
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www.nobitbridles.com
400 300 200 100 0
400 300 200 100 0
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Eventing
What’s on calendar Eventing
June 2011
Eventing NSW www.eventingnsw.com.au Quirindi Eventing Inc www.quirindieventing.com Tamworth International Eventing www.tie.equestrian.org.au
Please go to www.eventingnsw.com.au for more information on the following events: Coffs Harbour (tbc) Enc to 1* 18th - 19th June Denman New to 1* 25th -26th June
July 2011
Surrounding areas
Please go to www.eventingnsw.com.au for more information on the following events:
Eventing
BERRIMAA CIC Aust. ODE Champ Intro to 3* 1st- 3rd July QUIRINDI CIC New to 3* 16th - 17th July CSU Wagga New to PN 23rd - 24th July Sydney Midweek Intro to 2* 27th - 28th July Sydney Weekend Intro to 3* 30th - 31st July
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Coaches & Trainers Norm Hindmarsh Southern Cross Warmbloods PH: 02 6767 1404 M: 0429 862 854 scwarmbloods@yahoo.com www.southerncrosswarmbloods.com.au Sharmayne Spencer Heritage Hill PH: 02 6760 5554 M: 0414 577 273 - Sharmayne M: 0447 328 608 info@heritagehillequine.com.au www.heritagehillequine.com.au
with Kevin McNab
Dressage for the Eventer
Dressage has now become such an important phase in eventing at all levels. At most competitions the winner is generally in the top six after dressage, and if you’re not in that first half dozen after dressage, you face a really uphill struggle to become a winner. I continually explain to my eventing pupils that dressage training isn’t just about improving their dressage score - it can also make a huge difference to their performance on the cross country and in the show jumping. It’s like driving a car - improving the engagement, and thereby lightening the forehand, gives exactly the same feel as having power steering. A greater obedience to the half halt increases your braking power, just like having disc brakes all round. Disc brakes and power steering mean you can safely ride faster between fences! Dressage is about control. This obviously comes into play when you have to ride accurately across country, to ride arrowheads, corners and tricky combinations. Fundamentally, my approach to a training session with an event horse doesn’t change that much from that of a pure dressage horse. However, I do need to be far more flexible and have the ability to recognize that a horse may present itself in very different ways, depending on the type of work it has done in the preceding few days. A horse that has had strenuous fittening work the day before a schooling session will present itself in a very different way to one that had simply been schooled, as would be the case with most horses. The principles behind my training are based on six principles being Rhythm, Suppleness, Contact, Impulsion, Straightness and Collection. The training scale is, in a sense, a progression, working from the simplest to the most demanding requirements. But this is not entirely true, since elements from further along the scale are required to achieve the aims of the earlier principles. The late Reiner Klimke considered Suppleness (in German) ‘Losgelassenheit’ before Rhythm and described it as a “Horse which freely gives all its muscles to use its whole body without resistance; the horse is supple and unconstrained.” For me this is the key to training the event horses, predominately thoroughbreds, who’s degree of fitness - particularly the 3* & 4* horses - presents something resembling a tightly wound spring! I think in eventing the judges are generally happier to reward a fluent, harmonious, tension free test, even if there is some degree of lack of engagement. For this reason ‘Losgelassenheit’ (literally letting looseness through) is my starting point and it is this principle that gives me the flexibility I need. Each training session has three parts, Loosening up, Work and Relaxing. The first phase is very important for the event horses as it relieves both physical and mental tension. I usually start with 5 -10 minutes walk on a loose rein letting the horses stretch out all its muscles, which gives me the ideal opportunity to talk to the rider about the horse’s work since the previous training session. With this information I can plan the work phase of the session. Every horse is different and some horses, for varying reasons, benefit from some canter work before the trot. But as a general rule I use the rising trot next, encouraging the horse to stretch forwards long and low, with large circles and frequent changes of direction.
This would be followed by transitions from working trot to working canter on both reins, still maintaining what I call a softer frame. The amount of time spent in this phase varies enormously on both the age and stage of training of the horse, but most importantly with the event horses, the type of work they have received of late. It is this factor that is often overlooked, or a belief that loosening horses in this way is not necessary and the process makes them go onto their forehand. This for me is misguided, if a horse in unable to move freely forwards without tension it is not possible to start building up the muscles or start training the horse. This is a prerequisite to developing the natural movement. In nature a horse is a moving animal, confining him to a stable, sometimes with strenuous work the previous day, will create stiffness which must be removed before work can begin. Irregular walks, tightness in the back, short tense steps, resistances through transitions and a reluctance to maintain a round consistent frame are all signs that this important phase is being either ignored or given insufficient care and attention. continued next page...
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The next phase is the part of the session where we really start to develop the obedience of the horse to the riders aids, starting with simple exercises and building to more difficult ones. It is important to remember with the event horses, particularly the young ones, that although they may be very fit to run across country they have not yet built up the fitness and strength required for dressage. For this reason I continually give short breaks and allow the horse to stretch its neck on a long rein. The rider and trainer must listen to the horse as it is often unpleasant or even painful to work in a round frame for long periods of time. If the horse starts to feel a little heavy in the contact or raise and lower its head and neck these are usually signs that the horse requires a break. For me I am far more interested in developing the horse’s natural way of going, movements are a secondary issue, they are in fact proof of the pudding! I use the scales of training to develop horses that are truly able to confidently work actively forward from behind over a swinging back to a soft contact. Then they are really able to develop expression in their work and carry that through to the movements. When the basics are in place and there is a firm foundation to work from, the movements are easy. When I first start to work with a combination I often find the rider has not experimented with the movements not required in some of the eventing tests. I like to take them out of their comfort zones for several reasons. Firstly, canter half passes are wonderful suppling exercises, many horses, particularly event horses, who’s canter is often more balanced, find them easier. I often use them to help teach the trot half pass and in preparation for a flying change. I also remind the riders that a flying change has not always been a requirement and caught many unprepared riders out with their initial introduction. I would not be surprised to see the canter half pass introduced at some point in the future. The canter pirouette although not a requirement is also a valuable training tool. In general eventers tend to be of thoroughbred type, with a long hind leg bred to gallop, and therefore find the engagement far more difficult. I am therefore not looking to develop the standard of pirouette expected for pure dressage but developing what we call working pirouettes is of huge value. The work develops a degree of collection in the canter necessary to produce good simple and flying changes. In general, the hardest part is coping with the added tension at an event, particularly at the One Day events, because there are so many other things going on, event riders are faced with the temperament and fitness of many event horses and the atmosphere around them. To help them, I encourage that the work at home is done in a busy environment and if the horse doesn’t like it then you have to find a way to work them through it. Unlike pure dressage horses who’s competitive levels don’t really take huge leaps, talented jumpers can often been faced with a more demanding test in a matter of weeks. So the work at home needs be ready for such challenges. It will help enormously with the tension issue if the horse does not need to feel pressurized in any way during the Dressage Phase. If the test is easy for him because he has learnt to work at a higher level at home there is a much greater chance he will relax during his test. From the point of view of the rider, the most important thing is that the horse must react actively and quickly to the rider’s leg aid. If the horse does not and the reason is not a result of bad condition or incapability due to conformation, it will usually be found in the way the rider is riding. In most cases the rider jams there thighs, knees and calves into the horse and holds onto the horse in this way, particularly in the sitting trot. This clasping of the legs goes together with a jammed and stiffened seat and this combination of seat and legs works so much against the movement that it causes the horse to shut down. I think it’s fair to say most event riders dread “sitting trot” but it’s only because no one has taken the time to show them how to sit properly. Not that I can talk I bounce terribly! I make lots of transitions form walk to trot simply getting the rider to use one clear leg aid, if the horse responds he is praised, if he does not the rider must tap him with the whip. This is repeated until the horse clearly understands to respond to a light aid. It is important that the horse is never allowed to ignore a leg aid, but of course equally important when we teach this amount of sensitivity that the rider’s leg remains still and quiet until an aid is required. If you are worried that in your canter work you don’t have quite enough then all you have to think is could I canter to a jump like this and that will tell you if you need a little more or a little less.
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The last phase is cooling off and relaxation. I like the horses to stretch their necks forwards and down again, which with the correct work they should readily be willing to do. This ensures that the muscles completely relax again and the horse returns to his stable or paddock without physical or mental tension. I believe with calmness, patience and consistency it is possible to refine and consolidate the horse’s natural gifts in a manner which is fun and rewarding for both horse and rider. For this reason I always end a training session on a good note, irrespective of whether it was an easy or difficult exercise. This also gives you chance to give the rider a run down on what has been worked on during the lesson and time to answer any questions they might have.
~ Quirindi Hunter Trial ~
If you are interested in purchasing photographs from this event please visit www.msequipix.com
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What’s on calendar Horse Drawn
D r aw n
June/July2011
Australian Carriage Driving Society www.acds.org.au Carriage Driving NSW www.carriagedriivingnsw.org.au Tamworth Regional Horse Drawn Club www.trhdc.webs.com
Mini Gymkhana - Attunga 5th June Tamworth Regional Horse Drawn Club Rally Day - Attunga 3rd July Tamworth Regional Horse Drawn Club
Surrounding areas
Winter Gymkhana at Rossmore, Hills Club Jan Muspratt 02 9606 6085
26th June
Orienteering, Belangelo 26th June State Forest Southern Highlands Club Sue Plath 02 4681 9538 s_d_plath@skymesh.com.au
Horse
Local Clubs
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Tamworth Regional Horse Drawn Club Elizabeth O’Brien myeyor@yahoo.com.au 0427 766 726 Liverpool Range Harness Club (Quirindi) Peter Honeyman the-honeymans@bigpond.com 02 6767 1555
WOW is all I can say with regards to the Australian Carriage Driving Society’s 40th Anniversary Event at Bundenoon over the Easter holidays. Historical Bundenoon is set amongst the picturesque NSW Southern Highlands just south of Mittagong. A ten day spectacular of harness events including social drives, endurance, dressage, cones events, static displays of historical horse drawn vehicles, equine demonstrations, combined driving events, bus trips around historical Bundenoon and district just to mention a few, the competitors came from all state of Australia as well as New Zealand. All proved to be part of what was to be a most impressive event in ACDS history. Our club was well represented by Margaret O’Brien, Margaret Neely, Elizabeth O’Brien and Amanda See with groom Glen Murray all enjoying the variety events on offer. With the endurance, dressage and cones events proving very popular but the Combined Driving Event drew a large number of entries with 86 competitors. The weather held off for the dressage and marathon but the cones competition was driven under wet and slippery conditions. Elizabeth had the best placing from our club coming 2nd overall. The Southern Highlands Harness Club was our host and had thought of everything. The whole ten days was run like clock work with an army of volunteers tending to everyone’s needs. The Combined Driving Event Championships alone had 120 volunteers for the marathon section. Coordinating the events, volunteers, competitors and judges was a mammoth task but like true professionals the Southern Highlands Club handled the undertaking with style and proficiency. Our social drive held on May 1st at Piallaway was absolutely fantastic, with the drive around Greg and Loraine Malones property ‘Avonlea’. With 12 members attending it was a drive we will remember for quite some time to come. Greg took us through some very picturesque parts of his property and up to the look out which was so breath taking with views from Attunga to Tamworth on one side and overlooking the Liverpool plains on the other side. We drove for several hours and enjoyed every
moment then had a lovely late lunch before heading home. Our thanks go to Greg and Loraine for their wonderful hospitality.
Our club has a new website, take a look and let us know what you think the address is www.trhdc.webs.com it is a work continually in progress with regular updates. If there is anything you would like to see on the website please let us know. The next club day is June 5th it will be a harness gymkhana at Attunga with ring events and fun sporting activities as well. Please dress appropriately for the ring events, we do have an invited judge attending but more casual clothing is fine for the sporting events. There will be a bbq lunch available with tea or coffee, please byo cold drinks. The program has not been completed as yet but there will be horse/pony classes, turnout classes and driver classes as well as a variety of sporting classes after lunch. There won’t be any charge for the classes so come along and support your club and have fun. This gymkhana is open to everybody if you are not a member there will be a one day membership available if needed. So come along and give it a go. Look forward to seeing you all at Attunga on June 5th Happy driving Liz O’Brien - 0427766726
Amanda See and Glen Murray pictured left. Margaret O’Brien driving Blueberry pictured above (many more photos on the website)
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Vehicle care and maintenance of the horse carriage or cart are time consuming, but necessary. Not only that, the well cared and maintained vehicle makes a much nicer impression if it’s clean and polished,. You may also detect in time parts and places, where a repair is really needed. So don’t underestimate regular care of your vehicle. It makes the vehicle safer for you and your horse(s). Vehicle care is a science on its own. Every driver has got his own tips and recipes and below are a few brought together:
Cleaning: Best is plenty of water to remove all the mud, dirt, grit and sand. This prevents scratches on painted surfaces and parts. With a cloth you can get rid of oil traces. You might find some at the end of the springs or on the hubs. A leather is used for drying all surfaces. Polishing:
Use for this a soft cloth, which does not leave lints on surfaces. Patent leather parts, such as the dashboard and splashboards, can be polished with shoe cleaner. Metal parts, like e.g. shaft fittings or rails, need a special metal polish. Use it only in thin layers, because otherwise stains appear on parts out of leather and wood and painted surfaces. Parts made of leather (not patent leather), e.g. cee-springs, straps, hoods,..., should be cleansed with saddle soap. This will keep the leather well nourished. Upholstery should be brushed thoroughly.
Oiling:
What would vehicle care and maintenance be without oil?! Oil regularly the end of the springs around the shackles. In traditional vehicles you find hub caps on the outer end of an axle where the wheel is fitted. Remove those caps and put oil into the recess of that cap and put the cap back onto the hub. These caps hold the oil and the oil lubricates the parts inside when the wheel moves round. In four-wheeled carriages check regularly if the turntable or fifth wheel is still enough lubricated and put oil on, if not. This avoids problems with the steering.
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Wheels:
They need to be checked if they are running freely. For that, the shaft should be put onto a shaft rest and the other wheel(s) needs to be blocked. With a wheel jack placed under the axle it is easy to raise the vehicle up and the wheel off the ground. Now spin the wheel and see. In case of a problem you can do the following: A traditional vehicle’s wheels are fixed with a hub onto the axles. You can take this hub apart and clean and oil it. Modern carriages often have “fake-” hubs, which are actually roller bearings. Others have got sealed roller bearings. Unless you are an expert in taking these things apart, you are better off to take them to the manufacturer or specialist and let them sort the problem out.
Shafts:
Check if you see any signs of material weakness on them. Wooden shafts can show visible cracks on the wood or the paint. Take them for serious and sort the problem straight away. Metal shafts are different: weaknesses are invisible in most cases, they break suddenly and unexpectedly. The most sensible part of vehicle care:
Storing:
Storing the precious and often expensive vehicle to maintain a functional state is a bit like storing good clothes. A vehicle needs to be stored in an ideal climate. Avoid heat, because wooden parts may shrink. Try to put it into a dry place and avoid dampness, otherwise metal parts begin to rust. Ammonia fumes damage leather with time. Have an eye on woodworm and vermin and store all upholstered parts in a dry wardrobe. Prevent moth infestation. The shafts of two-wheeled carts should not be placed on the ground. They could break by being tramped on. Put them instead on a shaft rest or tip the cart backwards that the shafts are off ground. Cover them with dry, light clothes. Vehicles stored and cared for in such a manner should last a very long time. Article courtesy www.discovercarriagedriving.com
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PHOTO COMPETITION 1st Place
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The winner from each months competition will go in the end of year GRAND FINAL. There will be 2 Winners, 1 winner will be judged by the readers and the other winner will be judged by one of our AMAZING sponsors! Keep checking here for details..... GRAND FINAL WINNERS will be announced in our DEC/JAN edition along with the winning photos...... Great GRAND FINAL Prizes to be won........ 34 34 34
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Natural Horsemanship
Photo courtesy Liz Spittall
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What’s on calendar Natural Horsemanship
New England Natural Horsemanship Club http://web.me.com/newenglandhorseclub/newenglandhorseclub Horse Agility Australia www.horseagility.com.au Parelli www.parellinaturalhorsetraining.com Mel Fleming www.melfleming.com.au
June/July 2011 Mel Fleming Macksville, NSW - 10th - 13th June 4 days of workshops Intermediate I & Intermediate II CONNECTING WITH HORSES & RIDING WITH SYNCHRONICITY Maleny, Sunshine Coast, QLD 4 days of workshops Introductory & Intermediate Level CONNECTING WITH HORSES & RIDING WITH SYNCHRONICITY
Coaches & Trainers
Mel Fleming - Moonbi www.melfleming.com.au mel@melfleming.com.au 0428 385 745 02 6760 5519
June / July date TBA
Steve Byrne - Dungowan www.stevebyrne.com.au 0427 190 271 (02) 67 694 326
Start Agility Training with whoa & a pedestal
By Suzanne De Laurentis ©2007, Imagine A Horse
Equine Agility or Enlightened Trick Training can begin with a horse of any age from a young foal to a fully mature performance horse. Since horses are a precocial species, they are neurologically mature shortly after birth or in other words, ready to learn. Enlightened Trick Training involves the use of stage and working props to help a horse understand quickly the physical aspects of the requests. The Extreme Cowboy Race that is so popular right now and breed Versatility classes, utilize many natural and manmade obstacles. Obstacles are a natural part of a horse’s environment. Pedestals serve as a place or a mark for the horse and give him a home base from which to work and await a command or cue. Pedestal work helps to develop physical dexterity while increasing self-confidence and channeled boldness. Since horses are a flight species they can benefit greatly from the utilization of the “Stay” or “Whoa” command. Pedestal training gives a horse somewhere to go, rather than to just act out on his flight instinct and get away. Ground tying and the Whoa are widely taught to pleasure and performance horses and pedestal training adds a new measure of reliability and interest to horse education in controlling the flight instinct because it gives the horse a place to stay. Quiet feet equal a focused mind. Here’s how to get started:
Pedestals
Standard sized pedestals are 20”x 42” and 36” x 36” Use a hardwood pallet topped with ply – they’re 1162mm x 1162mm. NOTE: If you will email the author, she will email construction directions with pictures. Variations include Revolving Top Pedestal and Multi-tiered or stair step pedestal also various sizes.
Goal
The horse should stand quietly until released To be able (in time) to send the horse to any pedestal, at liberty
Benefits
A radical change in a horse’s ability to stand quietly and also to focus
Cues
Verbal Cue is “Step Up” Physical Cue could be a touch on the front leg with the end of a short whip
Tips Before you start:
Teach your horse to Park Out and also to move and/or lift each foot (all 4) when cued. With some horses it works well to place the pedestal in a corner or along a wall or safe fence to prevent the horse from evading it. conttinued next page....
www.imagineahorse.com
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Steps
Teach the horse to step up on a pedestal with the front feet first. Approach the pedestal and if the horse will pick up a front foot, cue him to place it on the pedestal. If he does not pick up the foot, pick it up and place it on the pedestal for him. It is best to use a no nonsense approach to the leg lift. A horse must willingly give his foot when asked and to facilitate this if he does not do so, tap him on the ankle with the end of a whip. Offering the foot willingly should be a behavior that is instilled in the horse before beginning Pedestal Training. You may experiment with the handle of a dressage length whip or the snap to see which works best. As with all good horsemanship, strive to use the mildest effective cue for the individual horse. When he allows you to place his foot on the pedestal, be sure to praise him and stroke his leg while encouraging him to keep it there. Repeat this step until the horse is comfortable with putting his foot “Up” and will do it freely when asked. When he will reliably put one foot on the pedestal, begin to encourage him to step up with the other foot by helping him to shift his balance off of the foot on the ground. Use the lead rope (short hold) to guide him as you ask him to “Step Up”. After he willingly steps up with the front feet, encourage him to stay for incrementally longer periods of time and until he is released. The complimentary and opposite piece of this lesson is to teach him to “Step Down” on cue. We usually use the widest side of a rectangular pedestal when asking a horse to Step Up with just two feet. When we ask the horse to walk the back feet up, we use the narrow end so that the horse is already in position to mount it or Step Up with the back feet also.
The Trick Becomes the Reward With your horse in hand on a working length line of 12 to 15 feet, walk the perimeter of the round pen as the horse trots circles around you After you have worked your way around the perimeter at least two times, draw the horse toward the pedestal and ask him to stop in front of it and then to Step Up. We usually add the pre cue of “Ready?” as we draw him toward the pedestal. Over time, he will understand that when he hears the pre cue of Ready, that you will be immediately asking for a response. This may take several tries so do not be discouraged. When he mounts the pedestal, give him a breather for a minute or two and stroke and praise him. Let him know that he did just what you wanted. After you release him from the pedestal and ask him to “Step Down”, begin the lungeing sequence again. Most horses learn in short order that they prefer the pedestal to trotting circles. The “work” or “Trick” has now become the reward.
Variations and other Creative Challenges When a horse has mounted the square top pedestal, ask him to yield the hindquarters or Step Around as his front feet remain anchored. Gradually increase the number of lateral steps until he can completely circle the hindquarters around. When traditionally presented, the exercise of yielding the hindquarters may seem nebulous to the horse. When he has learned to anchor his front feet on a pedestal and then is asked to yield or Step Around, it is easily understandable. Be sure to work the horse in both directions. As an Agility horse’s training continues, the pedestal will be his mark for executing other moves such as the Jambette or Salute, Retrieving an Object, and a slow Spin. If two horses are worked together, they can be taught to Change Places in a musical chair fashion. As with all good training, horsemanship principles, tact, good judgment, and a systematic approach is required. If you would like a copy of the free pedestal construction plans from Imagine a horse, please feel free to contact the author or info @tdlhorsemag.com.au and we will be happy to forward them on to you.
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Po l o / Po l o c r o s s e / H o r s eb a l l
Photograph courtesy Lyric Anderson
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What’s on calendar Polo/Polocrosse/Horseball NSW Polocrosse Association www.nswpolocrosse.com.au NSW Polo Association www.australianpolo.com.au Australian Horseball Association www.horseball.com.au
NSW POLOCROSSE ~ June 2011 4th - 5th June - MOREE 4th - 5th June - TUMUT 11th -13th June - NSWPA CLUB CHAMPIONSHIPS - NARRABRI 11th - 12th June - GUM CREEK 18th -19th June - YOUNG 18th -19th June - CUBBAROO 18th -19th June - BLUEGATE @ PRETTY PINE 18th -19th June - DUNEDOO 25th - 26th June - INTERMEDIATE SQUAD WEEKEND - HOSTED BY SYDNEY (@ SYDNEY CARNIVAL) 25th -26th June - SYDNEY BINGARA For contact details for the above listed events please go to www.nswpolocrosse.com.au
POLOCROSSE/HORSEBALL
COMPETITOR PROFILE meet Amy Sheridan...
Home town: Moonbi
Current location: Armidale (Studying Bachelor of Rural Science with Honours in Large Animal Reproduction). Age: 21 What age did you start riding/competing? I started riding about the age of 14 but did not start competing until 16. What made you choose Polocrosse & Horseball, how did you come into the sport and why are they your favourite horse sports? I had alot of close friends in both sports but the most influential people was Grant and Tara Biffin. What teams do you play with? For Polocrosse I am a member of Cassilis and for Horseball I have played many levels and teams including social Tamowrth sides and captain of the team that won the Australian womens title last year. What motivates you to go out and train everyday? I just love the sports I play and have horses that I 100% enjoy riding everyday and this makes a huge difference. I also want to continue to improve my game, therefore practice is essential. What breed of horses do you play? ASH for Polocrosse and ASH x QH for Horseball. Fav polocrosse & Horseball pony? Desray Deja Vue (Destiny) owned by me for Polocrosse and Horseball, and Widget for Horseball (owned by Scott Withers). What does a typical day for you involve? Ride, unrug and feed horses, go to uni for the day, go to the gym in the afternoon and rug and feed horses at night. Who do you admire/any role models? Skye Anderson & Lyric Anderson for Polocrosse, because they have helped my game improve out of sight, and are always willing to help, practice and play. For Horseball, Lachlan Elliott because of his passion and love for the sport. He dedicated his life to the horses and the sport. Biggest achievements to date: Captian of the Australian womens Horseball team, and achieving best number 3 on Desray Deja Vue at 2 carnivals in the past 12 months. Are there any aspects of your sport you have found hard to master? The ball skills of the game of Polocrosse has been the hardest to master as I started playing at the age of 19. For horseball the confidence to pick the ball up of the ground at a gallop especially on a horse you do not know.
What piece of advice would you give anyone starting out in the game? Play on horses you enjoy riding and are educated in the game as it makes your life 100 times easier and more enjoyable... TRUST ME I KNOW THROUGH EXPERIENCE lol. Travel with people you enjoy being around... the CASSILIS COUGARS are some of the most enjoyable people to be around and PRACTICE with!
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R i d i n g G r o u p s / Po n y C lub
Contacts Riding Groups/Pony
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Pony Club NSW www.pcansw.org.au
CURRABUBULA PONY CLUB Currabubula Rec Grounds Judith Ann Alston - (02) 6744 5714 justjude@bigpond.com BENDEMEER PONY CLUB Rodeo recreation grounds Faith Dixon - 02 6769 6530 www.bendemeerpc.pcansw.org.au GUNNEDAH PONY CLUB Gunnedah Show Grounds Donna Hall - (02) 6742 5633 gdhpcsec@yahoo.com KOOTINGAL PONY CLUB Moonbi Sports Grounds Joanne Roberts - 02 6760 3249 joroberts@activ8.net.au www.kootingal.pcansw.org.au ARMIDALE RIDING CLUB INC 02 6771 5322 sue.mills@rbsmorgans.com www.armidalerc.equestrian.org.au
Club
MANILLA PONY CLUB Manilla Show Grounds Colin Donlan - 02 6785 7365 NUNDLE PONY CLUB Taylors Lane Wally Whatmore – 0267691692 glenalmond@bigpond.com QUIRINDI PONY CLUB Quirindi Show Grounds Rachel Hope Coward - Secretary superiormobilehair@yahoo.com.au TAMWORTH PONY CLUB Cnr Bournes Lane & Meldorn Lane Jim Kolokotas - 02 6760 8172 kolokotas@optusnet.com.au QUIRINDI & DISTRICT EQUITATION CLUB INC (02) 6767 0284 qdeci@live.com.au www.quirindiec.equestrian.org.au
MANILLA EQUINE SPORTING ASSOCIATION INC Vanessa Gibson - 0428 782 973 Alison McCarthy - 0447 437 876
Surrounding areas
BARADINE PONY CLUB Baradine Showground Megan Worrell - 02 6823 5172 megan.worrell@gmanil.com BARRABA PONY CLUB Barraba Showgrounds Sonia Simpson - 02 6783 1382 soniasimpson1@bigpond.com
BOGGABRI PONY CLUB Boggabri Show Ground Gunnedah Road Anne Keys (02) 6743 4732 denmarkstud@bigpond.com
For Sale ~ All rounders QUARTER HORSE X MARE – 4 yrs old, 14.3hh. ‘Maddie’ is a lovely looking horse and is quiet. She is for sale as older owner has lost interest in riding and has been wasting in the paddock for too long for a young horse. Not a beginners horse as she is still a bit green, but is ready to take on any discipline you may wish to pursue. Great potential for a confident teenager to take on. Comes with full set of rugs. Ph: 6760 8489 Mobile: 0429 007 918 Tamworth
Are your hands still or should they move?....... By Kelly Tombs
How often have you been told “keep your hand still” “your hands are moving too much!”? Well, come to a lesson with me, and you are more likely to hear, “move your hands, MORE!” my students will attest to that.
Specialising in Rider Biomechanics
Even more you will hear “MOVE your ELBOWS, open and close your elbows, MORE! - I want you to open and close your elbows so much it feel silly, exaggerate it so much you think I am going to tell you to stop. Then you are probably doing it enough!”
Private lessons Video assessments Lessons also availiable in: Dressage, Jumping & gymnastic exercises
Nervous riders, beginner riders, adult riders all ok School horse available. Horses taken for training & problem solving, basic I want you to think about what your hands are attached to. They are connected to the bit in the horses mouth. The bit in education, dressage, jumping & event horses. the mouth moves with the horse’s head. Does the horse’s head stay still or move? Walk - allow your reins to go fairly loose and just let your horse walk out naturally. Make sure it is a fairly forward Re-training of(safely) OTTB’s, starting young horses active walk. Think about how his feet are hitting the ground. See if you can count the beats. 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4. Count it out loud, sing a song, row row boat, keep in timemanner. with his feet. inrowayour soft, calm Now look at his mane, notice how it is flopping as his head goes up and down? Which foot is hitting the ground when his Floating lessons. head goes up? Why is this so? Why am I telling you to move your hands and elbows?
Each time his front feet hits the ground, his head comes up and back. So what is happening to the bit? So what should your hands be doing? Your hands should be moving back and forward in time with his head, this may take some practice, some people can just do it, some people it takes a bit of work. Please make sure you persist with it, and please make sure it is coming from your elbows, not your shoulders. Keep your chest up and elbows by your sides.
Based on the Gold Coast, QLD Please call 0405 138 422 for enquiries
www.facebook.com/postureseatbalance
The easiest way to learn how to let your hands move with his mouth, is to start on a long rein, hardly touching his mouth. Look up, chest up, relax, allow your hips to follow his movement, and allow your hands to move back and forward. As you get the rhythm, slowly start to shorten your reins. If you lose it, lengthen them out and start again.
www.postureseatbalance.com.au
There is a time when you want to stop moving your hands, so experiment with it, get the nice forward rhythm, hands moving, steady contact, then make your movement smaller. What happens? What is this called? No I am not going to tell you! go get on your horse and try it! then come and tell me :)
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Trot At trot, what does the horse’s head do? Does it move or stay still? That’s right, it stays still! so what should your hands do? Thats right, stay still! The reason this is difficult, is that most of the time, we are in rising trot, so we are going up and down, not staying still. So the hard thing at trot is to keep our hands still while we go up and down. Again, think about making your hands stay with his mouth, rather than moving with your body. This is not the easiest thing to get the hang of, but there are a few exercises you can do to help make it easier. Practice off the horse - get a dressage whip, hold it so the handle is touching the ground, you hold the tail, then rise up and down, keeping the handle on the ground and not letting the whip bend and flex. You need to change the muscle memory, so if you are serious about developing great hands, do this exercise three times a day for five minutes, for two weeks. Then you wont have to think about it, you will just do it naturally.
The next level of the same exercise is to take the whip, and get on a trampoline. Keep it going at 150 bpm. This is one of the best exercises I ever learnt from Colleen Kelly. When you are riding - touch your little fingers down and touch the horse’s wither. Be careful to keep your thumbs on top, your chest up, and don’t tilt forward. Now try and keep your fingers touching lightly as you rise up and down. You cannot do it without opening and closing your elbows. Once you have got it, lift your hands to normal position, and keep the elbow movement happening. I will often have students do half a circle fingers down, half fingers up, half down, half up, till they can keep their elbows going without thinking about it too much. At Canter, your hands will move the same as in walk. Think about how your horse’s head moves, he has a big head nod at canter right? So if I restrict it by keeping my hands still, what happens to his canter? Again, you can use a similar tactic to what you did in walk. Please make sure you are safe to canter, and please make sure if you are going to try this, you are in an enclosed area. I started out in a round yard, on a long rein going into canter. Sitting up straight, eyes up, chest up, and allow my hands to move in time with his head. Then, just like at walk, slowly shorten your reins keeping your arms pumping back and forward. When you can confidently canter in the arena, your hands pumping back and forward, you can start using this to lengthen and shorten the stride. That is for another day though, but I hope this helps you with the dilemma of “should my hands be still or moving?”
“Kelly is an official teacher and board member for the International Society of Rider Biomechanics. She specialises in teaching riders from all walks of life how to improve their riding position for dressage and jumping, as well as training horses for herself and for her clients. She is currently seeking sponsorship, if you are interested in becoming a sponsor for Kelly and/ or Posture, Seat Balance. please contact kelly@ postureseatbalance.com.au www.facebook.com/postureseatbalance “ 44
Specialising in Rider Biomechanics Private lessons Video assessments Lessons also availiable in: Dressage, Jumping & gymnastic exercises Nervous riders, beginner riders, adult riders all ok School horse available. Horses taken for training & problem solving, basic education, dressage, jumping & event horses. Re-training of OTTB’s, starting young horses in a soft, calm manner. Floating lessons. Based on the Gold Coast, QLD Please call 0405 138 422 for enquiries
www.facebook.com/postureseatbalance
www.postureseatbalance.com.au
Bendemeer Pony Club Camp ~ Easter Break ~ Bendemeer Pony Club held their Annual Camp during the Easter break at the Bendemeer Showgrounds. Over 50 young riders ranging from 4years old to 17years old attended the week long live in camp. The young riders were given Instruction on many various activities, including: Shoeing - Saddlery - Flat work - Dressage - Sporting - Trail ride - Troop drill - Cattlework - Horse Ball - Games - Mechanical cow and more.... Without a doubt the newly introduced sporting event - Horse Ball was very popular and the young riders soon showed off their agility and skills. It is a mammoth task for the ladies and Gentlemen in the canteen feeding this amount of children not to mention the numerous Instructors on hand. I visited the camp on Thursday and saw first hand just what fun these camps are and how much effort is put into the week keeping the children entertained all day, not to mention activities in the evenings. Camp Mothers and Camp Fathers had no trouble getting their young charges off to sleep at night. After a fun filled and full on exciting days activities, once the head hit the pillow that was it!! There will inevitably be the occasional tumble for our riders , but Club Senior Instructor - Steve Bailey showed them how to do it in a big way on Friday. Poor Steve came off and badly broke his arm. The ambulance was called and Steve was taken to hospital and had an operation that night.
.
The finale of Camp is usually a Gymkhana on the Saturday with all the riders showing off their newly found skills, putting it to the test competing against each other. Unfortunately Mother Nature had other ideas and due to the inclement wet weather, the Gymkhana has been postponed until another date yet to be advised. By Jude Alston
45
14 years old My horses name is Cockburn Madonna (pronounced Coburn) or Maddy for short, she is a 14.2hh Bay Stockhorse Mare, she has a beautiful temperament and you can do anything with her ! Bingara Pony Club
Dressage, Pony Club, Jumping, ODE’s, Shows & Team Pen-
ning.
had my new horse for one year and 8 months.
the age of six.
I have only
I have been riding horses since
My new horse hadn’t done much jumping when we got her and she is going quite well for me now, so that is a big highlight. I would like to ride at the AELEC equestrian centre in Tamworth or at the SIEC in Sydney one day. I have had a riding instructor since I have first started riding and she has taught me lots over the years and she is also good just to have a laugh with ! She is like a big sister to me. I love to ride horses because you get to go to heaps of new places and meet lots of new friends, and i just love being around horses because they are so beautiful. I also like to try new things and just HAVE FUN !
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THE PONY FILES
Did you know? That it is believed that this breed was running wild in prehistoric times!
What animal has more hands than feet? A man rode his horse to town on Friday. The next day he rode back on Friday. How is this possible? How long should a horses legs be? What is a pony’s favourite sport?
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Taking care of and riding horses can be lots of fun! But horses are a lot bigger than us and as a flight animal, can be unpredictable at times. That’s why you should always remember to follow a few safety rules when working around your horses. This month we’ll look at ways to be safe while working with your horse on the ground.
Clothing: Wear appropriate clothing and footwear even if you are not going for a ride. If you wear shorts and or thongs, be prepared for scratches, bruises, or stepped on toes! Ouch! Approaching & catching: Remember, Horses cann’t see directly behind them or right in front of them (this is called their “blind spot”). Approach your horse from the side and pat his shoulder. Always talk to your horse, it puts them at ease and lets them know where you are. Place your hand on his hip if your walking behind him. Even the most gentle and well trained horse could still kick or run off if startled. Leading: When leading your horse, stand on its left side and keep your right hand on the lead rope under the horse’s chin to control it. This gives you the most possible control and can stop a horse stepping on you! Never loop a rope around your arm, wrist, or hand; instead, fold it back and forth and grasp the middle of the folds. If you don’t want the possibility of being pulled over or dragged, never wrap a lead rope or any other line attached to a horse around any part of your body. Try not to let the horse you’re leading touch noses with an unfamiliar horse. This can lead to biting or striking.(This can also apply when you’re mounted).
Tying. Tie your horse at eye hight and at a length no longer than your arm (so your horse can’t get his leg over the rope if he puts his head down). Tie him to a safe, solid object, using a quick-release knot or breakaway string (bailing twine). Never tie your horse with bridle reins. Grooming & handling. Always stand near the shoulder or next to the hindquarters rather than directly in front of or directly
behind your horse when grooming his head or brushing his tail. To walk behind your horse, go either (1) close enough to brush against him (where a kick would have no real force), keeping one hand on his rump as you walk around; or (2) far enough away to be well out of kicking range. Be mindful of your horses feet. Horses are oftendon’t think about where they step. When working around your horse’s lower leg or hoof (like applying a bandage etc), never kneel or sit on the ground. Squat down so you can jump away if he gets a fright.
Feeding treats: Give treats from the palm of your hand to avoid being accidentally nipped. Better yet, in the case of greedy horses or ponies, put your treats in a bucket before offering them.
Rugging: The safest way to rug your horse is to first fasten the chest straps, then the girth strap, then the hind-leg straps. When you remove the blanket, unfasten straps in the reverse order. This makes it hard for the blanket to slip and become entangled with a horse’s hind legs should anything go wrong. Turning out: When returning your horse to his paddock, turn his head back toward the gate and walk out yourself before taking the halter off. This may help you avoid his heels in case he kicks them up. Some horses get really excited and will take off to be with their buddies in the paddock. A good way to stop this is to carry a small treat and train your horse to know that they need to stand patiently while being turned out. They wait for their treat and then go out to meet their buddies. Travel: Don’t ever fight with your horse to get him on a float or truck; seek professional help and retraining, if you need to. Once a horse is loaded, close the back door or ramp before you tie him up. When unloading, untie your horse before opening the back of the float. This way he won’t pull back, hit the end of the ropeand cause himself to panic. When in doubt about the proper way of doing something, ask for help or advice before going ahead. Use your common sense. Don’t hurry, avoid shortcuts and try to do things the right way every time. Enjoy your horses, but practice these safety tips until they become habits. Next month we’ll talk about safety in the saddle....untill then, happy, safe riding! Cheers Mel x www.southernstarsequestrian.com.au
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LOCAL HORSE Magazine
T ’ N O D S S I M ! T OU Get in quick and subscribe to “THE MAGAZINE ON THE SCENE”
Your FREE monthly, full gloss, full colour publication delivered straight to your door! 12 months = 11 issues as Dec/Jan are combined. Name:............................................................................................... Address:........................................................................................... Suburb:............................................................................................. Postcode:............................Phone:.................................................. Email:................................................................................................ Simply mail this subscription form with payment to : Tamworth & District Local Horse Magazine 99 Deeks Road, Werris Creek NSW 2341 Alternatively you can contact info@tdlhorsemag.com.au for direct deposit details.
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Rodeo
/
Barrel
Horse
What’s on calendar Rodeo/Barrel Horse
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Australian Barrel Horse Association www.abha.com.au Australian Bushmans Campdraft & Rodeo Association www.abcra.com.au Australasian Team Roping Association www.teamroper.com.au
NSW Rodeo June 2011 COBAR RODEO - NEW DATE Points BRODIE MACKAY 0409 074 079
4th June
COONAMBLE RODEO SAT Points 11th - 13th June MICHELLE SHIELDS (04) 2821 2830
Barrel Horse June/July 2011 Divisional Barrel Race 5th June Moonbi Magic Barrel Racing Inc Susan Worgan (02) 6767 1204 or 0427 010 688 Cloverleaf Cruisers - Club day Coonamble cloverleafcruisers@hotmail.com
10th June
Maturity Barrel Race 25th - 26th June Murrurundi cloverleafcruisers@hotmail.com Divisional Barrel Race 3rd July Moonbi Magic Barrel Racing Inc Susan Worgan (02) 6767 1204 or 0427 010 688
A Quick Fix for Nerves … or … The Eyes Have IT!
Pics by
You’re cruising along just fine. Suddenly, that awful, tight, stomach knot spazzes-out in your tummy. Then, it goes north into your throat like a choke hold! We’ve all felt that sensation. Nobody escapes it. But, it’s not about the fact that you feel anything from nervousness to downright terror from time-to-time. It’s about what you do with it when it happens. It’s your response to your fear that counts. A tense situation could happen anywhere from the trail to a competition. But, that teeth-clenching, mind-racing, tight-muscle feeling is the same for all riders who feel anxious. This article contains a simple, five-step method to give you instant relief from anxiety. It can help you shift gears from experiencing internal turbulence to feeling as if you are smooth sailing. The positive effects of these steps can help you: 1. Stay calm and focused for all your riding experiences from practice to show. 2. Stay grounded in your thinking so you can ride with more “feel”. This technique can help you make the transition from analytical thinking (which is how you learn initially) to automatic responses (which is how you ride when things become secondnature). These steps work because they combine the use of mental and physical “tools” to evoke the emotions of calmness and focus. It’s important to understand that our mind, body and emotions are inseparable. One always affects the other. When you consciously apply techniques that engage one, and then another, you have the ability to channel your emotions in a positive direction. It’s a skill to do this. It’s not a gift one person has, and another one does not have. The steps are: 1. Prior to your ride, choreograph your eyes. By “choreograph” I mean develop a conscious plan about where your eyes will be at all times during the concentrated part of your ride. When you consciously control your eyes and keep them up and looking where you want to go, (or focused on an object), you go a long way toward keeping your emotions calm and focused. The reason this works is because all positive emotion is associated with eyes up. All dis-empowering emotion is associated with eyes down. Just by keeping your eyes up, you can positively channel your emotions . So, think about where you want your eyes to be at all times. Visualize that choreography in your mind. Then, do the same as you ride. 2. Next, when you mentally or physically practice, combine an awareness of your breathing with your eye choreography. Instantly, your eyes will become soft and you will have a wider field of vision. Pair easy-breathing with every part of your eye plan. 3. Now that you have an eye-breath dynamic duo working for you, again, be sure you practice it! Become very skilled so you can methodically execute it on demand. 4. This next step will help you automatically apply your new skill to any situation. Make it your personal priority to keep tabs on how you feel. Pay attention when you begin to feel anxious, fearful, nervous, etc. (You’re probably thinking, “Duh! That’s a tough one, Barb!” But, the reality is our anxiety becomes a runaway train if we don’t consciously notice when we first feel fear.) This step of noticing your emotions is HUGE. Don’t skip it. 5. Now, with your new trained consciousness of how you feel, you can replace any anxiety with your eye choreography and breathing. You might feel instantly super focused and calm. In the least, you will feel better. Mental and emotional tools are SKILLS. They won’t happen automatically unless you practice them. The good news is, this is fun practice! About the Author : Barbra Schulte is a personal performance coach for all riders, a cutting horse trainer, author, speaker, and clinician in the USA. Visit her Blog and signup to receive her FREE monthly email newsletter, “News From Barbra”. You will also receive the high performance secrets of great riders, inspiration, cutting strategies, news, and much more. In addition, you will also receive via email Barbra’s special FREE report: “Five of the Most Important Skills of Riding”. Go now to www.BarbraSchulte.com
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It was a frosty start to The Legends of Morn Quarter Horse Barrel Classic on Sunday 15th May but it wasn’t long before the sun shone; which let the barrel racers shine! It was the largest number of entries the “Classic” barrel race had seen in a number of years, a total of 150 entries. With the feature event the Classic and 4D being held over 2 runs. Competitors travelled from Southern NSW, QLD and a large number of locals were competing for over $11,000 in prize money plus prizes. The Moonbi Magic Committee were thrilled with the roll up and impressed with the outstanding barrel racing performed on the smooth running day.
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The Legends of Morn Quarter Horse Classic event saw 14 cowgirls work together around 3 drums with their 6 years and under horses as they raced for $3900 in prize money and some fantastic prizes. Round 1 was hotly contested with Brittany McVicar and Rusty Roc taking 1st position, close on her heels was Gundagai veteran Adele Edwards and Moon Roc. Adele and Moon Roc turned it up a notch to win the 2nd rnd just in front of Tamworth local and junior competitor Courtney Hallam and Beaver. With an almost perfect 2 rounds Edwards and Moon Roc took out 1st place in the aggregate and won the AQHA award for the fastest time on course 1, 2nd place went to Courtney Hallam and Beaver, Kerrie Holder and Bidgeebob Roc Solid made the long haul from Cootamundra to earn a competitive 3rd, 4th went to local horse woman Fiona Elliott and Gold n Gun and coming 5th on the black 3 year old was Bianca Hertel and
WD Just a Dream. With 69 competitors in the 4D event it was our locals who took home the winner’s cheque in the 1st division. Kylie Barnett and Brigalow took top honours over 2 runs, the team also took out the fastest time in both rounds and the AQHA award for the fastest registered quarter horse on course 2. 2nd went to Bendemeer junior, Dana Nock ridding Scotch and 3rd was Michelle Fleming aboard Ruby from Moonbi, 4th was Paula Mills and Epona from Spring Ridge and Emily Learmonth riding Stryder from Kootingal came in 5th. 2nd Division saw Shona Tribe and Radical Four on the Floor take home to Hallsville the number 1 spot, 2nd went to Adele Edwards and Roc n Elvis, Wendy Caban from Moree riding Duke was 3rd, Brittany McVicar with Hickory rode into 4th place and Brooke Hallam from Inverell was pleased with 5th. Teal Ayres made the long trip with her family down from Queensland, riding Special they earned the winners poll. 2nd went to one of the event organisers Helen McVicar riding Rocs Royal Cowboy, 3rd went to her 2nd mount of the day QT and Emily Learmonth, Horseland Manager Lauren Smith riding Mike Lowry came in 4th and the Prydes Easi Feed sponsored cowgirl Tenielle Cifford with Lethal Slyder was 5th. Equal winners were awarded in the 4th Division, Sharna Murray riding Shimmer and Cathy Henderson from Dubbo with Gus was happy to share 1st place. 3rd went to Shona Tribe aboard Dancing Cactus, Ashlee Sephton riding Mazie earned 4th and Tammy Tattam with
Photographs courtesy Emma Wells Photography
Duallin Oak received 5th. There was great barrel racing and sportsmanship in the 4 junior age groups. Chloe Burch has a new barrel horse in training to win the lead event riding Black. Cheering her friend on Ty Purcell riding Annie was excited to win 2nd and Ellie Jo Tuckey riding Tucker crossed the finished line in 3rd place. The under 11’s saw some fierce competition with Kyle Peacock taking home the win riding Wrangler, 2nd went to Braith Nock and Ringer and Kyle’s sister Chelsea Peacock riding her Classic horse Big Chex was 3rd.
11-14 years went to Jade Tribe riding the mare Miss Cinder Sue who won 1st, close behind for 2nd was Dana Nock riding Scotch and Teal Ayres Riding Clenny was 3rd. The 14-18 age group saw 3 local cowgirls take the top 3. 1st went to Eliza Stevenson riding her trusty gelding Playboys Hickory, 2nd went to Brittany McVicar riding Hickory and Parris Denning and Dream rode hard to finish 3rd. The last event of the day was a fun way to complete a fantastic day of competition. The Pole Bend was won by Brittany McVicar and Hickory, Bonnie Lucas rounded the poles on Fug to place 2nd and Emily Learmonth aboard QT was 3rd. The committee would like to thank the valued sponsors for their support and generosity and all volunteers who assisted with the day!
Results
4D Winners 1st Div - Kylie Barnett - Brigalow - 10 2nd Div - Shona Tribe - Radical Four on the Floor 609 3rd Div - Teal Ayres - Special - 260 = 4th Div - Sharna Murray - ? - 249 Cathy Henderson - Gus - 57 Junior Winners Chloe Burch - Black - 367 Kyle Peacock - Wrangler - 47 Jade Tribe - Dancing Cactus - 480 Eliza Stevenson - Hickorys Playboy - 445 Classic Winners - overall Adele Edwards - Moon Roc - 503 (and rnd 2 winner) 2nd place Courtney Hallam - Beaver - 883 Round 1 Classic Brittany McVicar - Rusty Roc - 575
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Pole Bend Winner
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What’s on calendar Showjumping
Show
Ju m p i n g
Showjumping NSW www.nswsjc.com North & North West Showjumping Club www.nnwsjc.equestrian.org.au
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June 2011 North & North West Showjumping Club hold practice days 3rd Sunday of every month Tamworth Show Grounds www.nnwsjc.equestrian.org.au Clinic with Jenelle Waters North and Northwest Showjumping Club Tamworth Showground Entries via Global. Link on www.nnwsjc.equestrian.org.au
4th - 5th June
Gunnedah Winter Showjumping Festival Sandy Weinthal – 02 6743 5234 www.globalentriesonline.com.au
25th - 27th June
Jumping NSW Clinic – at MAITLAND Rod Brown & Jenny Sheppard Edwena Mitchell – 02 6364 2053 emcat@bigpond.com
4th - 5th June
Junior and Student Showjumping Wagga Wagga Jennie McDermott 0412 051 025 www.globalentriesonline.com.au
4th - 5th June
Camden Winter Showjumping Festival. Incorporating FEI World Jumping Challenge for Amateurs. Bi-Centennial Park, Camden Jane Frankum – 02 4653 1063 espjane@bigpond.com.au www.globalentriesonline.com.au
11th - 13th June
SSJC Winter Showjumping Championships www.globalentriesonline.com.au
19th June
Surrounding areas
Training the Training Problems
By Don and Karen Sullivan - Cont.. last edition - Education of the young horse.
Karen Sullivan & Jaybee Vesper
The advantage of the training method described in the previous articles is that is it so logically progressive. It provides you with an automatic solution to most training problems; simply go backwards down the progression until the problem ceases to exist then begin again from there. However there are a few more complex problems which cannot be dealt with in this way. These include the horse that does its grid work well but still wants to rush over a single fence or speed up over a course and the horse that refuses or runs out without warning. Rushing When a horse begins to rush, firstly the rider must analyse his own contribution to the problem. Many riders tend to over-ride the last few strides to the fence combined with a relaxing of the rein contact. The horse, being obedient to the aids, speeds up in the approach and in time this becomes a habit. The rider must maintain an even rhythm and steady contact in the approach. Some riders, when trotting to a fence, allow the horse to canter the last couple of strides. Trotting is trotting and breaking into a canter is a form of rushing or anticipating so this should be nipped in the bud by discouraging the canter and maintaining a perfectly even trot before a real problem develops. The solution for horses who are habitual rushers is in practicing the approach to a fence. This is done by making a long approach to a single fence, then making a large circle the instant the horse begins to rush. It may be necessary to circle 5 or 10 times before the approach is good enough to allow the horse to jump the fence and this may need to be repeated in the other direction as well. This takes endless patience on the part of the rider and is a long process. The rider must make sure he doesn’t rush by deciding to jump the fence on the next approach, whether or not it’s any good – do not jump until the approach is correct. Don’t just whip around a few times and then charge at the fence! The beauty of this technique is that it takes away the horse’s anticipation of jumping the fence. The horse will begin to realize when approaching a fence it may or may not be asked to jump it and so will be awaiting its rider’s wishes. Horses that have already developed a tendency to rush will benefit by jumping a course with circles between every couple of fences, never jumping the next fence until the horse is completely relaxed. A hot type of horse will often tend to become hotter and more upset by constant changes of speed so it is particularly important to maintain a steady even rhythm throughout the course. Refusals and Run-outs Refusals and run-outs are a way for the horse to tell the rider something. Usually the horse is saying “For the ride you gave me I did the most natural thing” or “I didn’t have enough impulsion and didn’t feel like it” or “It’s too big” or even “No, I don’t want to”. Refusals and run-outs differ in that in a refusal the horse actually stops and says “No” whereas in a run-out he just keeps going past the fence ignoring the rider’s aids. Your first reaction when a horse refuses – even for justifiable reasons – must be to punish the horse by a quick smack with the whip; refusing is completely unacceptable behaviour for a show jumper. Never hit the horse near the head or abuse it in the mouth, one or two smacks behind the rider’s leg are enough to let the horse know he has done the wrong thing. Punishment must also be immediate so the horse knows what he did that provoked it. Then settle the horse and approach the fence in perfect control, straight and with impulsion. On no account speed up, anticipate the take off with your upper body or make a big crest release – often habitual stoppers are just waiting for you to drop them so they can repeat the performance. For a run-out, because speed leading to lack of control is usually part of the problem it is not usually productive to smack the horse with the whip. Approach the fence slightly from the side from which it ran out. So if it ran out to the left, next time come to the fence on a slight angle coming from left to right. This makes another run-out to the left quite difficult for the horse. If you keep a steady impulsion and do not drop the horse it will usually jump the fence. It will usually be found that a horse will tend to run out to one side only; with most horses this seems to be the left. Therefore this can be counteracted in the approach by keeping a little more pressure on the right rein and left leg(for a horse who usually runs out to the right reverse the aids). When starting a young horse the only kind of refusals that are somewhat excusable are when it encounters a type of fence it hasn’t seen before or when a fence is substantially bigger than what it has jumped before. Accustom your young horse at home to the types of fences it will encounter at shows. Walls, liverpools and dazzle boards will often stop a young horse in its tracks. To take a horse to a competition before it has gained confidence in jumping these fences at home is asking for trouble and a display of poor training. If, when training at home, a horse stops because a fence is bigger than it is used to jumping and you feel the refusal is due to a lack of self confidence on the horse’s part, still smack the horse but for the next approach reduce the height substantially and gradually increase for subsequent approaches. About the Authors Don and Karen Sullivan own River Downs Equestrian Centre, They train and compete their home bred warm blood horses in show jumping and dressage. They also start and train outside horses for clients as well as coaching and conducting clinics.
www.riverdownsequestrian.com
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Horse/Agricultural Show
What’s on calendar Show Horse/Agricultural www.agshowsnsw.org.au For more information on any of the shows listed below, please visit the website above...
NSW Agricultual Shows June 2011 Gulargambone Show 4th June Mandy Jones Ph: Mobile: 0429 369884 Warren Show 11th June Sue Wilson Ph: 02 68474548 Email: warrenshow@hotmail.com
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Plaiting your horse’s mane correctly can make all the difference to the way they look but you also need to think about what plaits would best suit your horse.
Neck line
Tradition used to dictate seven or nine plaits along the neck and one for the forelock. Nowadays you can choose however many suit your horse, though too many tiny plaits can look fussy and too few thick ones can resemble a row of golf balls. Clever plaiting can minimise some of your horse’s weak points. If he has a slightly weak or narrow neck, set the plaits on top of his neck to give an illusion of bulk. If the neck is too heavy, set them to the side of the neck. A horse who is slightly short in the neck will look better with a larger number of plaits. On the other hand, if his neck is longer, using fewer plaits will make it look more in proportion.
What you will need
Sponge and water or gel, hair clip, elastic bands to match the colour of the mane, a comb the width you require for your plaits and a needle with matching thread. After you finish you’ll require some hairspray and a good, close-fitting hood.
Preparation
Ensure that the mane is pulled to an adequate length and thickness before plaiting. Pulling manes is a necessity for most competition horses in order to show off their neck to the best advantage and for good looks, plus it makes plaiting that much easier. A well pulled mane helps to achieve well proportioned and neat plaits. The thickness and length is a personal preference however a mane that is 10-12 cm long is a good start. Some people like to wash the mane before plaiting, but some prefer to plait dry.
Steps 1) Begin by wetting down the mane. For unruly coarse mane hair use some gel for better holding of stray hair.
2) Divide the mane with a comb or a mane divider in even sections. Hold sections in place with an elastic plaiting band. This
can vary between 7 to 13 plaits depending on the length of the neck and the thickness of the mane. Generally an odd number is preferable.
3) The portion of hair that falls within your comb is what you will begin to plait. Plait this piece firmly right from the top, all the way down. 4) Holding the end of the plait firmly, turn the end up and under the plait about half to 1cm. Now secure this with an elastic band.
5) You can see the desired amount of the plait that has been turned under and secured with the elastic band. The trick is not to turn up too much of the plait 6) Now with your needle and thread push up and through the end of this bobble a couple of times, really secure the start of the plait by sewing vertically. 7) Now comes the trickiest part. Roll the plait under neatly until you reach the neck and cannot go any further. Pass the needle upward, underneath and through the roll, then from the top down again. Repeat this a few times 8) Collect any stray hairs on either side of your plait by taking the thread through the centre of the plait towards the top, loop to the right of the bobble then go up through the centre again and do a loop around to the left.
9) Finish by going up and down from the bottom of the bobble to the top to secure your plait and in.
For extra staying power you can finish with a quick spray of hair spray. As with everything, the more practise you get the better the finished plaiting will be.
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Phone (02) 6649 2203 or 0488 492 260 PO Box 5192, Glenreagh, NSW, 2450
Budget Horse Keeping
“Common sense money saving tips & tricks for the everyday equestrian” Lets face it! Keeping horses in this day and age is not cheap, although, I’m sure a lot of you would agree with me when I say that what we “horsey people” get out of our partnership with horses, is way worth the occasional empty pockets and hard times we sometimes go through. There are many people out there who would think we may be crazy, or who don’t seem to understand why we spend so much time and money on these animals....Well, I personally wouldn’t have it any other way and to them I say, I don’t regret one cent spent on my horses or for my sport and my passion...never have, never will….…Having said that though, when you really look at the way we spend our money on our horses, our competitions, our riding, there are actually many areas and many little ways that we everyday equestrians can save a few pennies and eliminate excess costs. Contrary to popular belief, you do not have to bring home a six figure income to support your fury friends. THINK SMART! $ Make a budget: Take into account all of your regular expenses....worming, shoeing, feed etc. Remember to add a little extra for unexpected vet bills. However, you may find that some vets are happy to let you pay off larger bills with regular payments. REMEMBER! A budget is useless unless you stick to it! $ Every little bit helps: Bag your horses manure & sell them for fertiliser. You may only get $2 a bag, but every bit helps. You’ll be feeding some ones garden, and on top of that it’s a good way to do your bit for the environment and recycle those old feed bags. $ You gotta be in it to win it! Enter all the horsey give-aways & competitions you come across. You never know, you may just win something you need and even if it’s not, you can pass it on cheap to your horsey friends for a bit of pocket money! $ Is it your Birthday soon?....or maybe Christmas is coming up and you’ve wanted something from the Saddlery for a while now? Why not ask for gift vouchers?....Then you’ll always get what you need and want! $ Lifestyle: You choose your lifestyle. It may not always be about finding ways to keep your horse on a budget, see if you can make some sacrifices yourself?...I know i have personally made many...my horses dress better than i do! PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE! Prevention is a great money saver, especially when it comes to horse health and the dreaded vet bills! Horses will be horses and they may fall ill or get injured on occasion but if we do all we can to reduce the risk then there is much money to be saved. $ Injury: Take the time to check your horses environment....his paddocks, stables, transport etc. Is there sharp, broken or protruding objects he could injure himself on? Check the fences are all in good repair and that there are tops on all star pickets (if you have them). $ Illness: Always give the best care to your horses and ensure you look after them! Cutting costs is great when you only have a small budget available but your horse should always come first. Cutting costs by not treating your horse appropriately is never an option and again will save on vet bills in the future. FEEDING! $ Teeth!! I cannot stress enough how important it is to get your horses teeth attended to on a regular basis! It’s like what I was saying above... Prevention is better than cure...not only will it make your horse more comfortable, so therefore your riding and training more effective, but it will SAVE ON THE FEED BILLS, could save in vet bills or on spending money sending your horse to a trainer for “problem behaviour”.
Signs of possible dental problems include: Reluctance to eat, does not finish food, or eats slowly. Dull coat, weight loss or loss of condition. Quidding (ie: horse drops partially chewed food while chewing), or chewing with the mouth open. Turning of head to the side while chewing. Excessive salivation while eating, blood in saliva. Foul smell from mouth or nose. Draining of abscess from the jaw. Discharge from one nostril. Undigested feed in manure. Colic. Excessive salivation Facial swelling. As stated previously, many problems under saddle can be tooth-related also. There are to many to list here in this article but: Head tossing. Tilting of the head while riding or difficulty in bending. Refusal to collect. Difficulty in getting the horse “on-the-bit” (especially if the horse tends to go behind the bit) and gaping the mouth, are just a few. Obviously there can be many other reasons for the behaviours stated above but a good first port of call would be to ensure the horses teeth are in good shape. $ Buy in bulk: Buy your feed in bulk and store it appropriately. Bulk buying is a lot cheaper in the long run than buying in small amounts. $ Hay: Feed your hay from a hay net, hay bag, or a proper hay feeder to avoid it being trampled on & wasted! $ Worming: Ensure you worm you horse regularly. Weather you administer natural or manufactured worming products, either way , if you don’t, a heavy worm burden can kill foals and elderly horses, reduce the performance of competition horses and severely reduce a horse’s vitality. Worming is a vital part of equine health care and horses that have a high worm burden are prone to losing condition or weight, having a poor appetite, and diarrhoea. In severe cases, worms can also lead to digestive problems (such as colic) because of the damage they can do to the bowel (resulting in vet bills!). $ Don’t feed what you don’t have to: Keep your horse outdoors or have your horse turned out on good pasture whenever possible. If your horse is only in light work or noncompetitive you can save money by not feeding grain, as he won’t really need it. $ Management! Good pasture management will increase available grazing which will reduce feed bills. Pick up manure regularly and rest your paddocks. Take the time to learn about pasture management, it will save you a fortune keep your horses happy. Invest in a moveable electric fence. Section of parts of your horses paddock to rest it. In the long run, all you can do to look after your pasture will save the feed and hay bills! $ Get advise: Take advantage of the free advisory services offered by some feed companies and the like. They can help you plan the optimum diet for your horse and help cut feed costs drastically. FEED XL is a fantastic online service that could help you immensely. $ Keep your horse warm: It’s winter! Rug your horse if you can. It will save him using his energy (the food you feed him) to keep warm, instead he can use it to stay in condition and happy!! A well fitting rug can help a horse maintain condition, as a cold horse will burn a lot of energy keeping warm. A last note....A labour of love is keeping a horse!... Next month we’ll cover shopping, horse & rider gear, attire & some do-ityourself items.... Happy horsey saving! Cheers, Mel x Article by Mel Spittall. Southern Stars Equestrian www.southernstarsequestrian.com.au
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Western Performance/Reining 60
What’s on calendar Western Performance/Reining NSW Reining Horse Association www.reiningnsw.com Tamworth District Western Performance & Appaloosa Club www.freewebs.com/tamappy1 New England Quarter Horse Association www.freewebs.com/neqha
REINING June/July 2011 NSWRHA Affliate Qualifier 19th June Horseworld Stadium, Maralya www.reiningnsw.com Pre Futurity Qualifier and State Championship Show Horseworld Stadium, Maralya
20th - 23rd July
WESTERN PERFORMANCE June 2011 Hack & B- GradeWestern and All Breeds Show Moonbi showground New England Quarter Horse Association www.freewebs.com/neqha
26th June
PAGE 62
Quick tips for improving your
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Trail Class Take your time through the course (don’t rush).
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Don’t look behind you while doing back throughs - learn to feel it out and keep your body square.
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Work your horse at home over elevated poles to help them learn to pick there feet up. Judges knock off points for hitting the poles.
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If you horse is clicking the poles as he goes back through them, then he’s not backing straight. Try the back, halt, back halt training method.
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Accustom your horse to various obstacles so they are no surprise. Practice bridges, gates, side passes, back throughs, etc. at home so it is easy at show. Practise in a natural setting is a great idea as too much arena work will sour both you and the horse. Everyone needs a break, you know.
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The gate, back throughs, and sidepasses are “skill” obstacles . Any problem doing them is operator error. Practice, practice, practice, but NOT on the obstacles at first, or all the time. Get your skills right.
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Again, practice!...you want smooth, relaxed, and not rushed. Work on pivots.
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Its important not to have your reins too long. You need to be able to manuver without having your hand up by your chin.
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When your asked to do a turn in the box they dont want you to do a pivot they want to see forward motion, almost walking a circle inside the box.
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Maintain a collected frame.
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If you are uncertain of your horse in a maneuver, then slow down, relax, collect, continue SLOWLY, BUT DO NOT STOP!
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Approach bridges/ramps/obstacles in a collected, forward, steady yet slow manner, but DO NOT STOP.
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Believe in you & your horse~! Practise confidence in both your abilities.
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Keep your attention on details.
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Try to find a gate around you that you can train with, but take very small steps.
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Try practicing Trail in hand. If he can do these obstacles in hand, you should be able to ask him to do so while mounted.
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REMEMBER: Trail class is about Skill, safety, and confidence.
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Lastly, go out trail riding with him and remember, winning a blue ribbon is the result of good training and preperation.
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The New England Quarter Horse Association The New England Quarter Horse Association is one of the AQHA’s oldest affiliated clubs and is dedicated to the Promotion of the Australian Quarter Horse. Monthly Western shows are held which encourage Western exhibitors of all skill levels and breeds including but not limited to Quarter Horses, Appaloosas & Paint Horses. There are also Monthly Hack shows which have proven to be a valuable addition to our annual show program. Our programs cover a large range of events and all breeds of horses are invited to attend our shows. Some of the events include Halter classes for Quarter Horses, Appaloosas, Paint & Paint Bred Horses, Australian Stock Horses, Numerous Miniature breeds, & an Any other breed class for all other horses not catered for in specific classes ie. Arabians, Warmbloods, pintos etc. We even have a full dilute program including halter & ridden events for palomino, buckskin/dun, ancillary & broken coloured dilute. Our western events cover classes for beginner, amateur and open level riders and include Hunter under saddle, Equitation, Western Pleasure, Western Riding, Reining, Showmanship, Hunter in Hand, plus more. The Hack shows have a comprehensive program including hack, Galloway, show Hunter, hunter hack, ladies & gents classes and ridden stock horse classes just to name a few. There is also a range of led hack as well as leading rein classes. The club is very interested in supporting members and offers annual high point awards to encourage and reward members for their participation and achievements through-out the year. There are canteen facilities available on show days for hot food, cold drinks, tea & coffee. If you have ever considered showing your horse or are interested in learning more about western horses please join us at our next club day at the Moonbi Showground on Sunday 26th June or 21st August. 2011. Website. www.neqha.webs.com Email. neqha@yahoo.com.au Email. neqha@hotmail.com
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Management to Avoid Tying Up
cont from April edition...By Dr John Kohnke BVSc RDA
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MEDIA RELEASE
Vaccine protects from DEADLY HENDRA VIRUS
CSIRO scientists have shown that a new experimental vaccine helps to protect horses against the deadly Hendra virus. Dr Deborah Middleton from CSIRO’s Australian Animal Health Laboratory (AAHL) will announce the successful progress to develop the vaccine at the Australian Veterinary Association conference in Adelaide today. “Our trials so far have shown that the vaccine prevents the infection of horses with Hendra virus,” Dr Middleton said. Stopping the disease in horses could also help protect people from the disease. “A horse vaccine is crucial to breaking the cycle of Hendra virus transmission from flying foxes to horses and then to people, as it prevents both the horse developing the disease and passing it on.” Hendra virus first appeared in 1994 and five of the 14 known outbreaks have spread to people. The virus has killed four of the seven people infected. Depending on further development, field trials and registration the vaccine may be available as early as 2012. Dr Barry Smyth, President of the Australian Veterinary Association, said that the news on the vaccine will be welcomed by both vets and horse owners. “It’s important that veterinarians and horse owners continue with precautions that reduce the risk of spreading the virus and that they report suspected cases immediately,” Dr Smyth said. Recent work on evaluating the vaccine was jointly funded by the CSIRO, the Australian Government Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry and the Queensland Government Department of Employment, Economic Development and Innovation. The development of the vaccine goes back more than ten years to shortly after CSIRO scientists first isolated the virus following the first outbreak of the disease in Hendra, Queensland. Development and source of the vaccine is the result of a close collaboration with Dr Christopher Broder of the Uniformed Services University of the Health Sciences (the US federal health sciences university) supported by the US National Institutes of Health, but the high bio-containment facility at AAHL was essential for evaluating its beneficial effects. “Our bio-security facility at AAHL is the only laboratory in the world where this work could have been done. It has been slow, painstaking and high-risk work and the credit is due to many people who’ve worked on this since 1994,” Dr Middleton said. For further information and requests for interviews contact the AVA media office on (02) 9431 5062, 0439 628 898 or media@ava.com.au
64
Photos courtesy of ABC News
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