Lucie’s draws
Credits : Lucie Barral
EDITO EDITO
Pictures that are worth a thousand words ...
Team Besides her training in business management and business administration, Angelica also has an innate passion for fashion and design. As a little girl, she painted bird feathers to make pendants. Later, she began creating accessories with everything she could put her hands on (cloth, shells, beads ...). She also specializes in customized clothing and manufactures decorative objects. Creator of this magazine, Angelica, who is no longer a little girl but has not reached the thirties yet, has many strings to her bow: Editor for Volup°2, Management Consultant, Co-founder of A’s de la Perfection, Professor of Senegalese languages (Wolof and Serer) and French, Advisor in business Management, writer for le courrier des enfants (a Montreal organism), Intern for international solidarity in Nicaragua...
Angélique Marguerite Berthe Diène aka BlàckyGyan, Canada Founder, Head editor, publishing and graphic design, first editor designer, talent scout ...
Stefdekardà aka The Ace is a senegalese infografist who lives in Dakar. This young man is passionate about art, street art, music, tattoos and design. He specializes in fashion and beauty photography, and is the ‘ Africa Correspondent for Volup ° Up to 2 a bilingual French/English magazine created by Velvet d’Amour and also the Artistic Director of Xipil Xole Studio. Although he never worked in the fashion industry, he always liked fashion and design and this passion led to the creation of A’S de la Perfection.
Stéphane André Pierre Diène aka Stefdekardà L’As, Senegal Graphic Designer, Photographer and Senegalese Correspondent
Laura is from Montpellier in the south of France and lives in Montreal, Canada since 2013. Eager for travel, discovery and experience, she is driven by her dreams and her permanent challenges. After her studies in communication, she developed her personal art website in order to share her best picks in that area. Having developed a passion for writing for ten years, she naturally joined the magazine’s editorial team for the release of the second issue. Passionate by numerical and graphical communication, she participates in R Magazine’s web promotion by animating people on social media such as Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest. Having more than one string to her bow, she also participates in the layout of the magazine in collaboration with other graphic designers.
Laura Bonnieu, Canada Graphic designer
Very experienced ... with strong writing skills ... elegant ... guilty of being concerned about using the right words ... this is the perfect translator for anyone who wants to solve word puzzles in the language of Shakespeare!
Anne Solange Diène, Canada Translator and Reviser
At 26, Ayayi is a consultant in strategy, management and finance and is about to become a certified accountant. Very passionate about music and mangas, he is a bit charismatic and dreams of having his own music production company and launch his clothing line, even if he is aware that this is not compatible with the accounting world. He intends to release two novels by 2016 and after that he plans on working on professional literature.
Ayayi Senam D’Almeida, Togo Writer
He was born in July 1981 in the municipality of Gáldar in Gran Canaria. After obtaining his bachelor degree, he met the fascinating world of photography and began photographing landscapes, architecture, etc. in a self-taught way. Just as photography, fashion met his way. He worked in fashion consultation, personal styling, events, and he still works in these areas. He has also shown his abilities as a radio speaker, and now collaborates as a fashion and news editor in various blogs, online magazines and for a television channel. José Vidal, Spain Spanish Correspondent and Photographer
Born in Montreal in a Haitian family, Jayne is a creative soul who is passionate about writing, music and art. Her life’s purpose is to travel, discover new cultures and realize her passions.
Jayne Mandat, Canada Translator
A native of Burkina Faso and student in Business Management in Sheffield, United Kingdom, Anaïs, 23, is a passionate of fashion. Alongside her studies, she leads a secret Facebook group named «Tendance Tendance», which for nearly three years, has managed to gather young girls who share the same passion. The group reviews the actuality of fashion, the latest trends. In addition to publishing the biography of professional designers, “Tendance Tendance”‘s mission is to be a promotional channel for young African designers. Anaïs also provides counselling to members about their «outfits» makeup tips...
Anaïs Michella J.A Yameogo, United Kingdom Fashion counsellor
Axelle is from Guadeloupe. She has lived 6 years in different cities in France for her studies, starting from the bottom each time. She describes herself as adventurous and recently moved to Montreal in search of new adventures, hoping to gain professional experience in graphic design which is a profession she is passionate about.
Axelle Port-lis, Canada Graphic designer
Ray is an Indonesian-born photographer based in Paris. Self-taught, his works essentially focus on photographs taken during trips mainly made in Asia and Europe. He actually works on a project featuring different portraits of people met in the 4 corners of the world and their perception of life.
Ray Senpai, France French and Indonesian Correspondent and Photographer
Pop culture’s fairies have passed by Linda’s cradle one autumn evening in the 80s. Being creative and curious, cinema, series, music and fashion have rocked her daily since then. It is then naturally that she studied in audiovisual and worked for several years in TV production in Paris. Attracted by Montreal’s creative energy, she decided last year to move in that city where she works in the music industry during the day, and volunteers as an R magazine’s editor during the night. Everything interests her: the latest trends, news, movies playing, cooking and even knitting! Her slogan: creativity.
Linda Chaabna, Canada Writer
Melissa Dupuch is a French photographer based in Montreal, Canada, She is a student in Dawson College in the professional photography program, she likes to work closely with her clients and create a friendly team with make-up artists, hairstylists, designers and models to get the best results for her shootings. Her main goal along the shootings is to reveal the person to the viewer. Her work is manly editorial but she also does portraits, maternity. She is also an engaged artist who like to do photography related to the news. She does colorful pictures as well as artistic black and white depending on the client’s project.
Melissa Dupuch, Canada Photographer
From Angers, Karima has lived and worked in a dozen of cities before settling permanently in Montreal in 2014. After studying in model making, this fashion keen now finds herself in assistantship against her will. In order to give a sense to her career, she voluntarily writes articles for R Magazine to satisfy her curiosity for art.
Karima Kebabi alias Karima Ka, Canada Writer
Fadji is a Canadian citizen, a former Swiss resident, and a Togolese since birth. He owns a Masters in Management that he has obtained at the University of Geneva, at the HEC department, and is passionate by numbers and big cities. Member of the Order of Chartered Administrators of Quebec (2011-2012), he now excels in cash management in Montreal and it is in this area that he would like to provide his expertise.
Fadji Vovor, Canada Finances
Born in Cameroun, Myriam moved to Canada six years ago with her family. She spends her time between her communication studies and her interest in art and fashion.
Myriam Annick Tchameni, Canada Writer and Translator
Parisian in her thirties and working with numbers, Bernie has a great passion for photography which she does in her spare time under the nickname «The glob’girl.» Photography is in fact a way for her to express the artistic streak that has always been in her since childhood, a period during which she loved to draw. Besides, it often happens that she takes back her pencil to jot down ideas for future photo shoots. Her current inspirations valorize femininity, when she does not try to deliver messages about love and racial harmony. However, one of her next challenges will be to work with male models.
Bernie Diène, France French Correspondent and Photographer
During the day, Lucie is a Human Resources Manager. In the evening, she retires herself in drawing. Drawing’s lover since childhood, she is also a geek and a fan of gastronomy.
Lucie Barral, France Illustrator
This senegalese citizen joined the bachelor program of ISM Dakar after studies in telecommunications at Louis de Broglie engineering school. Finally she obtained the bachelor degree in Management in 2011, but she decided not to stop here and enroll in master classes in international Finance at esc Rennes school of business. Now, she is 28 years old and she is looking for an internship in the field of finance which will allow her to validate her master degree. Polyglot, her master of languages leads her to join the team of the magazine.
Madjiguène Diop, Senegal Translator
Passionate about travel and charity, she is very imaginative with a curious mind and she pays attention to details. Her careers is diametrically opposed to that, but she perfectly knows how to mix numbers and letters. She brings in her translations a hint of England where she has lived for several years.
Marie Agathe Ndiaye, Senegal Translator
Marie Édouard Diouf, Canada Writer To discover!
SUMMARY Fashion
Diandra Forrest
A difference that leads to success
Refilwe Modiselle Portrait
Personal Shopping White in vogue
Mickael Pacult Interview
Meta
R-Model
Princesse Ronda Interview
Beauty
The beauty of a pale complexion Tips for beautiful skin
Society
Adrienne Ntankeu Interview
Speaking about albinism The difference, what difference?
Arts
Gustavo Lacerda
Angels, livid with golden hair
Oleg Dou
His strange portraits
Deejay Jewell Portrait
Maah Koudia Keita (Takeifa) Interview
Sherfy nous parle du high key Interview
F like
FASHION
Diandra Forrest
A difference that leads to success Diandra Forrest was spotted in the Bronx in New
York when she was in high school, at the time when she was persecuted by her classmates because of her difference. Today, aged 25, she keeps signing modelling contracts across the world.
Albino beauty
Diandra is very tall and very skinny. She has an atypical beauty as she is suffering from a skin disease: albinism. This specificity is particularly marked in the Gazelle because she is AfroAmerican. Her skin, lacking of pigment, is in contrast with her African features. Her hair is naturally blonde, Her skin complexion is ivory and her eyes are green. This beauty, not in line with the usual standards, managed to get her a place in the popular arts andfashion industry.
DIANDRA FORREST//FASHION
Photographe: Ivan Monge Coiffure: Joey Oso Maquillage: Kim White
Backstage at David Tlale Show MB NYFW
She was spotted on the street by the photographer Shameer Khan who encouraged her to
enter the modelling world. He finds Diandra Forrest very special and her eyes very fragile. The New York agency Elite does not let this gem pass. Two months later, the Gazelle is taking part in shooting and fashion shows, one after another. She signed a contract with the Ford agency in Paris, she is Vivienne Westwood’s face, and she works for MAC as well. She can be seen in the music video «Power» made by Kanye West in 2010. Her difference makes her stronger, and her albinism distinguishes her from the others. As in a fairy tale, the ugly duckling turned into a swan... Rédaction : Laura Bonnieu
Diandra Forrest & Shaun Ross for West East Magazine – Black Issue/Head Stylist: Ty-Ron Mayes/Photographer: Emin Kadi
DIANDRA FORREST//FASHION
REFILWE MODISELLE//fashion
Refilwe Modiselle
Refilwe, 29 year old, is an albino Soweto-born South African model. Her albinism, a stigmatized condition, did not prevent her from success.
Education
She studied a national diploma in advertising in college. She has since worked behind the scenes for production companies and media agencies as an Advertising, Marketing & Media Specialist and TV Production Manager.
Redaction : Myriam Annick Tchameni
Her achievements
Refilwe has been acknowledged as SA’s first working albino model, and as Africa’s first albino model by CNN She has been interviewed for feature articles in many print publications in South Africa and abroad She has been guest on various radio and TV shows (BBC World Radio, TBose Mokwele’s Best T in the City, 3Talk, eNews Channel’s Against All Odds, and many others) She is one of the 15 most powerful women on Oprah’s Powerlist for 2013 She has been brand ambassador for the brand Legit She has a role in Akin Omotoso’s feature film Tell Me Sweet Something Her voice has been used for various promos and jingles (The National Lottery Ponds for Glambition to give an example)
Credits: Owen S Management
White in vogue...
It is the mythical solo! Fresh and cold, this color is a winter one but it can also represents the emptiness, the infinity. In spring, white is tendency. Some people will not dare to wear it in total look. Some others will wear it to convey an image of purity, of innocence or even of second virginity. Adopt an integral version –couture or casual –to perfect your immaculate look.
Our two active fashion enthusiast suggest the following combinations:
José Choice
PERSONAL SHOPPING//fashion
Ana誰s Choice
PERSONAL SHOPPING//fashion
Credits : Katell Bouniol
Hello Mickaël, can you summarize your background and what led you to fashion?
My journey began in Tours where I studied studio art in high school. After I graduated and having been accepted at the Duperré school (fashion school), I arrived in Paris. I have always been attracted by fashion. I’d been talking about style since elementary school. The idea got lost during my adolescence, only to reappear after graduating, when choosing a major. I couldn’t picture myself in any other design job such as graphic design, industrial design or architecture... The succession of collections, working under pressure, searching for new ideas... they all coincide perfectly with my way of working and are what makes me love fashion design.
As part of your fashion design studies, you created the Albus project. Can you explain your approach and what inspired you?
The Albus collection is inspired by albino people, their singularity and the physical characteristics of their mutation. Their peculiarity excludes and contrasts with normality. My interest in these individuals comes from the light they emit, the beauty of their hair and purity of a white body. These extraordinary beings have a perfectly smooth shaped body and their appearance is pure from any artifice. The first approach of my work has been to search for textures and smooth materials that provide a similar visual effect as a porcelain surface. The material, smooth to the touch, creates an outer layer mirroring their pristine and impenetrable appearance. The nakedness of the body that the clothes imitate accentuates corporal liberty. The naked body is not controlled; it escapes more easily, more freely. It slides. It becomes harder to seize and hold. The clothing is no longer a veil that hides the body but an extension of the skin and its nakedness. The body itself becomes clothed and creates a second skin. The entire collection questions the theme of non-pigmentation and the absence of color, including notions of lacking and losing. Pigment loss, as well as material subtraction, mirror the effects of transparent surface, creating a link to the naked body and exposed skin. Dappling, initiated by different shades of white, is then reinforced by tactile imitations of the skin’s feel and texture. The flesh, used as pattern is imprinted with subtle, grainy textures that are barely noticeable. I see slightly pinkish tones that spread to the arms and legs as the body’s attempt at repigmentation, revitalization, and an emphasis on color contrast. Nudity is livelier but still cold, different.
Has this theme of albinism been a creative obstacle by limiting the color to white, or has it simplified your work? I probably answered your question earlier. White was a bias, it allowed me to enrich my work by pushing my researches in one direction and develop it to the fullest.
In your opinion, is there still a canon of beauty in fashion today?
Fashion has become a huge industry where beauty is a selling point. Canons of beauty differ depending on cultures around the world and consumers that we want to seduce. I would say that indeed, the canons of beauty still exist. They are, most often, the representation of a body, as smooth and impersonal as possible for everyone to aspire towards. Fashion models are not very unique from each other. They are tall, young, thin and fresh, they look like no one in particular, and yet they look like everybody. We all project ourselves on to these magazine bodies, and strive to imitate them when most of them are teenagers or digitally enhanced photos and therefore totally unreal.
What other themes would you like to work on in the future?
After my Albus collection, I was lucky enough to be accepted in ‘Diplôme supérieur d’art appliqué’ (Master’s degree in applied arts) within the same school. Approaching fashion in a much more conceptual and reflexive way, I could develop projects that help me understand how to create new things, how to approach them and to enrich my work to the maximum. My research paper has focused on the search of the ideal and beauty standards. This training allowed me to better understand the creative world I want to evolve in and to consider with a more relevant eye all the images that surround us. My studies are now finished, I am now fully focused on fashion design and I had the chance to start an internship at the Christian Dior design studio, where I participated in the making of ready-made and haute couture collections.
Interview by Linda Chaabna. Translation : Emery Matson MICKAEL PACULT//FASHION
Mickael Pacult Credits : Katell Bouniol
Credits : Katell Bouniol
A T E M
Credits : Stefdekarda
His beginnings on the podium date back following the call initiated by Dasha Nicoué to the association care albinos to hire albinos for the purpose of a charity parade. Accompanied by his friend Maah Keita, the bass player of the group Takeifa, he has agreed for a release on a podium but without having any opportunity on it. One day, a photograph, having seen his picture on Facebook, contacts him for a project of exposition. By the same occasion, the latter suggests him to do his career on it, he answer by the negative because once again, he didn’t see himself doing this job. Even tempting offers of common agencies didn’t master his stubbornness. «It is just ephemeral», he said. «Modeling is a springboard towards an international career which would be able to lead to cinema for instance.»
However, he doesn’t define himself as a model but rather as a top model in consideration to the lack of assimilation of prerequisite of modeling. Between being behind the flash of photographs, raise the spell to the designer Adama Paris, and direct towards success, this young man demanding and with frankness…Franc take the time to defend the cause of albinos, these humans who have just a lack of melanin. «I relativize when people look at me in the street. However I see it as an asset. Then it is not annoying even if sometimes, glances are brazen and acerbic. My color is stranger. However I come upon some people who are stupefied. » He takes pleasure to talk about albinism above all about reactions that «this different skin color» generate on the African continent. «In Senegal, crimes are surely reduced but it is sure that we albinos are stranded in government policies. Moreover; the society is shame to show it children albinos. I was lucky to born in a family who didn’t see handicap or difference. I have been always grown up with the aim to be the best. »
META// R MODEL
One of his leitmotiv, taken from a song of Didier Awadi and reformulate by himself is: «as Albinos, accept yourself as you are and struggle in order not to be among the last. » «I don’t let anyone marginalize or belittle me because I have an IQ as everyone and even if there is a difference, I think the beauty is there. Then to see albinos on the podium or in centre stage is a kick to all these pitfull tongue which proliferate. Even if, it is to be denounced that some people use them to vehicle image like “one should defend albinos», I will never cease to shout this advice at the top of my voice: Dear albinos wake up! Help yourself and don’t wait for others! As every person we require a better consideration and to lead our life in peace and harmony. » writing : Angélique Diène translation : Madjiguène Diop photos : Stefdekarda
META// R MODEL
Credits : Stefdekarda
Princess Mady
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Princess Mady. A name which will soon sound in modeling world. The reason is that , she paraded for the famous Jean Paul Gaultier with his  Bourgeoisie sans âge , during the fashion and design Festival of Montreal in 2011, year of his beginnings. A few weeks before, she had been recognized by Tanel Bedrossiantz* during the festival of striped dance. Beautiful, young, tall, studious,in one word Princess Ronda, has everything to please and among high heels and books, she found a moment to speak to us about her business, about her dream and about albinism. Meeting with a super-top on the go.
* (Tanel Bedrossiantz belong since thirty years ago to creative life of fashion designer Jean Paul Gauthier
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| Do you take the career as a springboard towards anything else, or like something sustainable? Modelling is rarely sustainable. For me, it is a springboard towards something else. I have many projects, but I would like above all end my studies. It is not obvious to consolidate both. I intend to return to Europe to toss my hat with famous agencies, but it is not possible when studying full-time. I take the opportunity of holidays to travel. With the visibility which my career will bring me, I would like to launch my own brand of cosmetics, become publisher of a fashion magazine or create my own agency. | Your method to obtain the requested expression or attitude... Be myself, but in the fashion world, it is necessary to be fickle. It happens that one asks me to interpret a character, during a shooting or during a fashion show. Sometimes, it is very theatrical or dramatic. You need to be able to go out of your comfortable zone, to adapt yourself to all possible situations.
princess MADY//FASHION
| Do people recognize you in the street? Does it turn out annoying? Yes, it happened to me some time. And sometimes, I feel embarrassed and I don’t know how to answer to the compliments, and I say «thank you, it is kind!». It is pleasant, but it is a little bit annoying. | Three models men and women you admire for their work... I can only quote two of them: Naomi Campbell and Shaun Ross. The latter inspired me a lot, because he had the guts to impose himself and opened the way to other albino models, as Diandra Forrest, for example. One can see him on the footbridges of fashion week of Paris and New York, in the clip of Beyoncé, Lana Del Rey and as host in America’s reality show Next Top model. Naomi, she is a very ambitious and charismatic woman. She worked hard for more than 20 years to be the icon that she is today. She is one of the model most experimented, almost 45 years, she always paraded for the biggest designers. She is producing her own reality-tv show The Face where she trains aspiring models in competition to get big contracts. | A magazine which you wish to be on the cover... Vogue, if God wants it. | Advises to somebody who is going to appear for the first time at a casting... Eat healthy as much as possible and incorporate fruits and vegetables into my daily meals. My weakness is Viennese pastries. I make abdominal exercises daily and I try to avoid eating late or nibbling in front of the TV | Conseils à quelqu’un qui va se présenter pour la première fois à un casting ... Remain oneself and show her personality. For the dress, it’s better to wear simple and near the body, as a tank top and a leggings. Make up very slightly and never forget her high heels!
princess MADY//FASHION
Credits : Neon Paris Magazine shot by Alexis Hobbs
| Tell us about albinism! For me, the most important thing which people have to hold, is that it is not a disease. We cannot suffer from a skin color! Certainly, we are subject to certain oculo-cutaneous problems, as many thousand other people in the world. If the prevalence of the albinism was of a person out of ten, people would not speak about it. What is rare always arise some fascination. People unfortunately tend to reject what is not familiar to them. The skin color has no importance, nevertheless it is in the center of the conflicts since the world is world... | Being more used to the shade rather than to the flashes, albino are nevertheless for the honor in photos and more and more represented on the catwalks. What do you think about it? I believe that what pushes them, in spite of them, to stay aside is ostracism, the fear to be rejected and the lack of self-confidence. Before, I kept a low profile because of the way people looked at me. We are for the honor in photos, because our rarity and our particularity fascinate. It is a good thing that we are present more on the catwalks. Seeing more and more albino models in magazines, people will pay less attention on our skin color and will focus on our work.
http://princess-mady.tumblr.com writing & translation : Marie Edouard Diouf
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princess MADY//FASHION
Credits : Orange
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BEAUTY
The beauty of a pale complexion Tanning & cycling Over the time, the tanned complexion is fashionable in a cyclically way. If tanning is sought today, the white skin has been the ultimate goal for centuries for both religious and social reasons. Having a white skin was synonymous with success. Tanning was reserved for the working class, those who work outdoors and could be protected from the sun. In ancient times, sun exposure appears as a remedy against diseases such as tuberculosis. The medical importance of UV began to change its bad reputation...
Since the twentieth century, tanning is seen as a sign of health and beauty. It is a social norm, the symbol of good holidays and personal fulfillment. Tanning, youthism, and cosmetic surgery have become normative obligations.
In 1920, the seamstress Coco Chanel accidentally catches a sunburn. She was very known; the trend of tanned skin was then launched. Meanwhile, France discovered the MĂŠtis singer Josephine Baker. All women then envy her caramel skin...
a pale complexion//BEAUTY
I am white
Having beautiful skin
The skin contains melanin, responsible for our skin color. The more our skin contains, darker is the color. The substance rate depends on heredity, hormone levels and certain diseases (albinism). The role of the melanin is to protect the skin against UV radiation from the sun, and thus to fight against aging and skin cancer. You are against this extreme tanning trend? You think natural or artificial tanning is «out»? You do not tan? You tan poorly? You avoid the sun for health reasons? It is time to assume whiteness! Let’s stand up (yes, I put myself in the lot) and face those who call us «aspirin» or ask us if we spent the summer locked in a cupboard...
Eat properly
I think the most important advice to have a nice skin lies in the food. The skin is a reflection of our health, and doesn’t it partly depend on what we eat? Nutrients are good for the body from the inside as opposed to all the products we buy and apply outside. I’m not revealing anything to you, you have to provide the body with vitamins, nutrients and minerals daily. Vitamin C that gives elasticity to the skin is mainly contained in citrus fruits, strawberries, cabbage, spinach, parsley and green peppers. Melon, papaya, apricots, carrots, spinach, red pepper and cabbage contain beta-carotene, which allows the body to produce vitamin A, responsible for cell renewal.
«Shortly after, a daughter was born; she was white as snow, red as blood, and her hair as black as ebony. She was called Snow White.” Tanned or pale complexion, it is a matter of taste. Every summer, beauty magazines and blogs are full of tips for the perfect tanning. However, there are fewer articles for porcelain complexion. To have a nice and clear complexion is not as easy as you might think. Without caring, it’s easy to look pale, yellowish or gray (thank you Pollution)...
Let’s rely on omegas and vitamin E to improve the flexibility and strength of our skin, Omegas are found in fatty fish (salmon, tuna, mackerel), and the vitamin E in the oils such as sunflower oil.
On one hand, it is important to take care of your skin whether it is white, black or mixed. On the other hand, there are some natural tips to be known for perfect white skin, worthy of a porcelain doll. Let’s be BEAUTIFUL aspirin tablets! Be proud of yourself, no matter what the others say!
a pale complexion//BEAUTY
Drinking water
Water is essential to life. Professional always repeat we should drink plenty of water. In addition to providing calcium, sodium, potassium, fluorine and minerals, it is beneficial for beauty. Water continuously hydrates the skin; making it softer, smoother and protecting the early appearance of wrinkles.
Keep out the sun
Do we really have to explain why? Avoiding UV leads to avoiding premature aging of the skin while reducing the risk of cancer. Obviously, it does not necessarily mean we should stay locked at home. It means we should change our habits and protect our skin with sunscreen, SPF 30 minimum. Also, bet on large hats and clothing covering a maximum of skin. Accessories, including hats, fill the shelves of our stores; you’ll find a cute one.
Taking care of yourself
Stress, alcohol, coffee, tobacco and late nights are to be put far away. Smoking makes the complexion dull. For a more beautiful skin, stop smoking! Physical activity, fruit and vegetables are to be integrated into the daily routine. For healthy skin, it makes sense to clean the skin twice a day and still be cleansed before going to bed. One can use a scrub once a week to get rid of dead skin cells, and know your skin type to use suitable products. writing : Laura Bonnieu translation Myriam Annick Tchameni a pale complexion//BEAUTY
4 natural ways to lighten skin How to lighten skin and maintain a radiant white skin? (Editor’s note: it is not about depigmentation but methods to prevent and fade some natural skin spots)
Lemon juice
You can spray lemon juice mixed with water on your body. Lemon’s citric acid contains lightening natural components. You may not notice the difference from the beginning; the result comes with regularity. However, be careful to apply lemon only 3 to 4 times a week. Indeed, lemon juice dries the skin if used every day because of its acidity. Of course, do not spray the cuts…this may sting.
Aloe vera
Aloe vera is what I call a miracle product. It can be used in all beauty treatment. It has softening properties helping the regeneration of the skin. It helps blurring the darker spots and brightens the skin. You can break a leaf of the plant and spread the sap over the areas to be lightened. You can use this jelly as many times as you want because there are no side effects.
The potato
Potato has a high amount of vitamin C, therefore it can further skin whitening. You can simply cut a potato in half and rub your skin with these parts. Again, as with the lemon, the results will be visible if it is done regularly. These techniques can be tested with cucumber and tomatoes that also contain a lot of vitamin C.
Turmeric
This popular spice of India inhibits melanin production. It can allow a tanned skin to regain its normal color. You can mix half a teaspoon of turmeric with two teaspoons of lemon juice and two teaspoon of cucumber juice. You spread the paste on your skin and leave on for 15 minutes before rinsing with clean water.
a pale complexion//BEAUTY
Stars with porcelain skin: Diane Kruger, Nicole Kidman, Emma Roberts, Kristen Stewart, Dita Von Teese, Emma Stone, Julianne Moore, Jessica Chastain
a pale complexion//BEAUTY
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SOCIETY
Adrienne NTANKEU
Since
2011 and the creation of ANIDA, Adrienne NTANKEU advocates for albinos through multiple actions and raises awareness of the disease. Having herself been a victim of humiliation, she has been isolated from her family and sent to France at the age of five. Her return to her homeland at the age of 19 years, made her aware of the difficulties faced by albinos in Africa and the fate that awaits them. Through shows, conferences, exhibitions, the association gathers artists and intellectuals from different backgrounds around a cause that affects 1 in 4000 in Africa. Far from the usual clichĂŠs, it is the diversity and beauty that is celebrated at these events. The association is fighting on all fronts, care and education, through the collaboration of sponsors, laboratories and the mobilization of its members.
1. Tell us about your organization, its history and its objectives : This association was created in response to the killings of albinos but we soon understood that medical problems and rejection caused by ignorance should also be part of our battle. To fight against skin cancer, long clothing, hats and sunscreen are the most accessible means to protect yourself from the sun. Sunglasses can help relieve sensitive eyes a little. The pronounced visual disturbances, which can only be partially corrected, will continue to worsen with age, but a consultation twice a year by an ophthalmologist with prescription glasses would ensure a better daily life, although most of the African albinos cannot afford it.Therefore, the association collects sunscreens, caps, brimmed hats, sun glasses, long but light clothing (long sleeves, tunics ...). It is parallel to the research monetary donations and grants that allow buying glasses (with prescription) and essential medical supplies (bandages, gauze, cotton, and mercurochrome) to treat wounds related to the frequent dryness of the skin and sun exposure. Moreover, this money help organize trips to transport and distribute the material in villages in Africa. During these interventions, ANIDA also raises awareness in communities and families of albinos, on the origins of the disease and the repercussions of the disabilities linked to daily life. It also carries information campaigns for albinos to teach them how to best protect their health capital. ADRIENNE NTANKEU//SOCIETy
2. What is behind the acronym ANIDA? National and International Defence Association for Albinos
3. What forms of discrimination are faced by albinos? In some circles, albinos are believed to bring misfortune or, conversely, are idolized.In best cases, in Africa, albinos receive gifts in exchange for blessings, but mostly, they are marginalized and persecuted. Being an albino, or giving birth to one, is often perceived and considered as a calamity. The albino is socially rejected. He often remains unloved, or even seen as a plague victim. It is still difficult to overcome prejudice against them, fears, superstitions, etc. There are several discrete ways to eliminate an albino child during a bath for instance or with the help of professional killers. These methods are used by some parents, sometimes with the complicity of the society. Other factors also come into play in integration difficulties of albinos in the African society. On one hand, Africa’s warm climate is inclement for albinos’ health, who cannot carry out any activity exposed to the sun. On the other hand, the pronounced and incorrigible myopia, due to albinism, excludes occupations that require visual acuity. In addition, the gifts, talents and potentials of the albino are, in most cases, not taken into account.
ADRIENNE NTANKEU//SOCIETy
4. What actions do you put in place to raise awareness? We created a travelling photographic exhibition called Faces of albinism. The latter is going across the cities of France and those of African countries. We would initially like to promote the association, make the French population aware of the difficulties faced by albinos in Africa and raise funds and collect material donations.
5. Salif Keita is one of the first names that comes to mind when we talk about albinism, what does that inspire you? Are we missing a model? Salif Keita is a musician, he is an albino like me but he inspires me nothing special, although I love his music. I’m not lacking of a modal and I’m not trying to look like one. I just want to live my life with my albinism, to be a woman, a mother, a wife and to change the perception of albinism.
6. Where did the idea of organizing fashion shows come from?
Fashion is a chic and glamorous environment where modals with the most unusual physics have their place. We do not fit the usual standards of beauty, but our originality conveys a positive message. Public attention is rewarding and through his eyes, we feel we can also be proud of our beauty.
7. How do you recruit the models participating in photo shoots? We contact models through advertisements on the Internet. We also go to designers fashion shows.
ADRIENNE NTANKEU//SOCIETy
8. What experience models derive of their foray into the world of fashion? Foremost, they see themselves as normal people and accept their difference. The fashion shows restore their trust and they, in turn, become ambassadors of fashion.
9. One of the themes of your shows focused on the search for identity, does albinism make it more difficult to ensure a sense of belonging? The sense of belonging depends on where albinos are from. On the African continent, it’s the African themselves who reject us because of our white colour. Consequently, some psychologically fragile albinos develop identity issues. Black people reject us because we are white and white people reject us because we have Negroid features. The most important, is to accept ourselves as we are and to love ourselves above all.
10. Beauty icons increasingly differ from the established standard; modelling agencies are launching new faces including Thando Hopa or Shaun Ross. Is it a fashion trend or an awareness of our diversity? It’s the latest fad. Modelling agencies primarily seek to diversify their work in order to meet the trend. Even as albinos, it is necessary to meet all the criteria for the selection of a standard model otherwise agencies will not hire us.
11. What impact does the success of these new figures have on your organization? No impact, models with albinism initially work only for themselves in order to earn a living. But the fact that they manage to make a place in the world of fashion is a good thing because we are still a minority in this sector.
ADRIENNE NTANKEU//SOCIETy
Credits : Pascal Temps
12. Your association offers online beauty products, what are the specific needs of albino customers? People with albinism need neutral PH products. They need sunscreen for protection from the sun, spectacles and sunglasses. We facilitate access to those treatments and products because they are very expensive.
13. Can you reveal your beauty tips? What are your weapons of seduction? I only wash my skin with PH neutral products, lemon or olive oil soap, and then I hydrate using a cream with natural extracts and reiterate several times a day. When I go out, I protect it from the sun: I wear protective clothing, long sleeved, even when it’s hot, and I put sunscreen with a high index on my face, neck and hands. As for makeup, I only take dermatological tested products, for fragile and dry skin. I only wear clear, natural colours, close to my skin tone. I do not try to hide my nature, I try to sublimate it. Finally, I ADRIENNE NTANKEU//SOCIETy
hydrate my hair everyday with Shea butter and other natural products. My Beauty weapons are spontaneity, frankness, humour, integrity and above all love. I can be very seductive and romantic when I like the person.
14. Your life does not revolve only around ANIDA, what are your other passions? My children are my passion; I also do some modelling for an agency. Moreover, I essentially run the association; I am continually seeking for new funds to finance new activities.
15. Your plans for 2015?
For France and the African countries, we want to organize a cultural day in May about albinism in partnership with UNESCO, we are looking for sponsors. This event will be held at the UNESCO Headquarters from 26th May during the African week. We also want to create a mobile pharmacy in Senegal, we are looking for a donation for bus or a van for this project.
Redaction : Karima KA Translation : Agathe
ADRIENNE NTANKEU//SOCIETy
Anida together against albinism 2A Place de Touraine 78000 VERSAILLES
Anidafrance@gmail.com Contact France : 00 336 45 75 97 67 Contact Cameroon : 00 237 90 95 88 11 Contact Senegal : 00 221 78 29 103 15 To donate : http://www.anida.fr/nous-soutenir For more information on the week of Africa to be held in Paris in May 2015 http://www.unesco.org/
Norma Ishak Collection 2012
Albinism: the difference, what difference?
Credits : Katell Bouniol
The one that pleases... Albinism, a rare genetic disease characterized by a lack of pigmentation of the skin, the hair and theeyes, has always aroused fascination mixed with distrust. People with that disease are at best ignored, and at worst avoided. However, in recent years, some have seen a new criterion of beauty in this “non-color”. Thus, models and actors have appeared on the front page of fashion magazines or in video clips. We particularly think about Shaun Ross tenderly hugging Lana del Rey singing ‘Gods and Monsters’ in the short film Tropico. The model Stephen Thompson, star of the spring-summer 2011 collection by Givenchy, opened the way to his colleague Thando Hoppa who is the new face of Vichy’s solar. The white shade is now affirmed as the equal of its sisters.
The one that scares But far from being perceived as an unusual criterion of beauty, albinism is still a reason to exclude and assault people who are infected. Indeed, superstitions persist in many African states including Tanzania, Ivory Coast and Burkina Faso. Albinos’ body parts are being attributed magic powers that are sometimesbeneficial and sometimes evil. These parts (head, leg, fingers) are popular among local witches and may be sold for thousands of dollars on the black market. This sordid trade, far from being the privilege of a few obscurantist, is still being practiced today under the request of business people and politicians in search of luck and success. Fortunately, there are many associations that provide assistance to albinos by raising awareness towards the disease to put an end to popular beliefs. This preventive work helps in changing mentalities, but mutilations and murders are still to be deplored. Encouraging examples also emerge here and there recalling that albinism is only a disease, and that the person who has it is an ordinary citizen, not an alleged evil entity, and is equally capable of undertaking studies and career. This is the case of Al Shaymaa Kwegyir, member of the Tanzanian parliament since 2008. This woman with albinism has combined disease and professional success. She now tries to make people recognize the place of albinos in Tanzanian society. Long hidden or ignored, albinos’ voices and faces rise around the world to impose their status as fullbeings, neither weird nor magic, but simply carrying a rare disease and an additional shade of white.
Redaction : Linda Chaabna Translation : Myriam speaking about albinism//SOCIETY
A like
ARTS
"They appear to be angels, livid with golden hair, fell from the sky"
Since 2009, the Brazilian artist Gustavo Lacerda, has been devoted to photographing people with
albinism in Sao Paulo. It is on the street and on the social networks that he found most of these models. When his series began to be known, some albinos have spontaneously introduce themselves to him to participate to his project. This artist, photographer for 20 years, is known for his passion to highlight the margins of the society. The lack of pigment in the skin, hair and eyes explain why albinos are a particular population and areeven persecuted in some areas of the world because of beliefs and superstitions. In his series he calls «Albinos», he celebrates, in his own way, these rare beauties. Albinism was especially fascinating for him because, beyond their physical characteristics, people with that disease, must necessarily escape the natural light. This distance often marks a social withdrawal in these individuals. The photographer, putting them in the spotlight, makes us question ourselves on beauty standards and discrimination. The «Albinos» series consists of fifty portraits of men, women and children. They pose alone or with others. They appear to be angels, livid with golden hair, fell from the sky. We notice a huge work on colour and contrast. Dressed in pastel colours, they blend into the scenery. The shades are soft and so is the lighting. Gustavo Lacerda passes a sensitive and poetic message. It challenges the contemporary standards of beauty.
Redaction : Laura Bonnieu Translation : Agathe GUSTAVO LACERDA//PHOTO
GUSTAVO LACERDA//PHOTO
O
leg Dou
and his strange portraits
Oleg Dourjaguine aka Oleg Dou is a native
artist of Moscow. He is in his early thirties and is now one of the most promising artists of his generation.
_____ BEGINNING _____
Born of the union of a designer and a
painter, he is rocked by the culture and art from a young age. At 13, he was offered a computer with Photoshop, the famous image editing software. It was a revelation! Oleg discovered computer graphics as his art. This gift will change the course of his life. He explored what this software had to offer by modifying his classmates’ faces on class photos. In 2005, he bought his first camera and had the idea of linking photography and computer graphics by retouching portraits. He then found his signature. Yet trained to be a designer, it is his photos that attract the attention of Liza Fetissova, director of RTR gallery. A year later, she allows him to exhibit at the gallery, opening for him the door to the world. Today, he presents his photographs in galleries around the world: France, Belgium, Spain, United States, Netherlands, Russia, etc. Being an artist seems to be his vocation. Oleg Dou has also received several international awards such as the International Colour Awards, the Arte Laguna Prize or International Photography Awards.
OLEG DOU//PHOTO
_____ WORK _____
This self portrait photographer plays with
the viewer’s perception. His work is very personal and recognizable at first glance. Aesthetically, he is inspired by the painters of the Italian pre-Renaissance. He is passionate about the human being, representation and self-expression. His characters have a piercing look, cold and distant. Their skin is perfect and very pale as porcelain. Are they human? Are they monsters? The viewer oscillates between a feeling of beauty and ugliness, of attractive and repulsive, alive or dead. He manipulates the audience as he manipulates his images. The message of his art is precisely on that border. It is strange and it attracts.
OLEG DOU//PHOTO
writing : Laura Bonnieu translation : Marie Agathe Ndiaye
Deejay Jewell At 28 years old, Deejay Jewell is already fully immersed in artist’s life. He makes people move on various dance floors as a DJ, and also brings more to the fashion world as a model. “These two things came to me almost at the same time in a professional way,” Deejay says. “I was part of the nightlife rather discreetly, and I was also going to school like everybody else.” Deejay is part of the last promotion at Lycee Simone de Beauvoir receiving a Bachelor Sciences and Tertiary Technology (STT). He also has a Technician Certificate (BTS) in Negotiating Customer Relations (NRC) that he has obtained at Lycee Professionel Jean Lurçat.
However, the musical world seems to be an environment to which he has always belonged. “I’ll say that since childhood I was surrounded by music. In my family there are only music lovers, beat makers, rappers, etc.” From time to time, the young man livened up parties with one of his cousins, but it was mostly his cousin who was leading. Deejay has continued to lead his side until, at the age of 24, he had the opportunity to perform in public for the first time. «A friend asked me to mix for his first big party at the Redlight in Paris in October 2010 and that stepped me out from behind the scene,» he says. Deejay has not left the decks since then. Instead, he goes from party to party having for mission to make people dance. «I started by livening up private parties and I continued mixing for weddings. I have been mixing for clubs in the area of Paris area for 5 years and for those in the Aquitaine region for a few months. I also liven up some clubs in Spain.”
DEEJAY JEWELL//MUSIC
As mentioned just above, music is not Deejay’s only passion. He is also part of the fashion world, an environment he joined as a result of unexpected encounters with photographers who, loving his appearance, offered to work with him. «These meetings took place in the street,» he says. «I was able to participate in the Benetton casting in 2010 because I met a photographer at Châtelet, and he sent to me Chiara Senti who is actually his girlfriend and photographer. I participated in the development of her book later on. It still happens like that today, they approach me and offer me to work with them. At the beginning I was saying yes just to discover this universe, but when evolving I entered Wanted agency, I have been guided and I also learned to choose according to my tastes and conviction as for the project We Are All The Same by Ancom & Dreams.» Deejay also works with the Fashion Music Showroom in Paris, an agency that organizes events combining music and fashion. «Concerning modeling, I believe I have done great things, the greatest being parading for Mr. Jean Paul Gautier at the Fashion Week in March last year, without forgetting to mention other parades for Hood by Air (HBA) and Aston Quinn. «
«I wanted to prove that it was not a handicap because every time I was doing something, people were astonished as if being albino and breathing is an achievement in itself. Many albinos themselves were seeing me on the decks at the club and were congratulating me for what I was doing when I was just doing what I love. I set my limits myself, my albinism doesn’t decide for me. I have always moved forward without telling myself that I won’t make it. Art with a capital A came and knocked on my door and we never separated since then. I wanted to make a force of what some were taking for a weakness and it was visibly pleasing. It was felt in my attitude.” The confidence Deejay has in himself makes him become a source of inspiration for many. «According to the messages and comments I receive, I inspire people because I go where I am not expected. I will say that the future of albino artists is in their hands the same way as mine is in my hands. I mean that there are so many forms of art today that there is room for all. Live your dreams while you are young, as long as you can. If you are told that you are beautiful, believe it. If you are told that you have the potential, believe it and go on. The only limits that exist are the ones that we set ourselves.»
To achieve his goals, it took something more than talent and passion. «What motivated me to get where I am is that I wanted to prove, while loving what I do, that being albino is neither a handicap nor a weakness for the person who gives his- or herself the means,” he says.
DEEJAY JEWELL//MUSIC
writing & translation : Myriam Annick Tchameni
Maah Koudia Keita - Takeifa -
Interview Maah Keita is the bass player of the Senegalese band Takeifa, whose members are all siblings. Their music blends pop and rock styles with African sounds and has thousands of views on YouTube. Their texts in Wolof, French and English highlight the diversity of African culture and its openness to the world.
Maah carries this diversity in her as she has albinism. Her white skin and light hair makes her look so special on stage and in the videos of the band. As an artist and woman involved in the work of the Care Albino association, she agreed to answer our questions for R magazine.
Maah Koudia Keita//MUSIC
Hello Maah. Your band Takeifa has toured across Africa and Europe. Do you think Albino people are seen differently according to countries? Indeed every country has its own perception of albinism and it mostly depends on its culture and traditions. In some countries, albino people are considered sacred beings and therefore they are highly respected and revered. In other countries they are stigmatized, not integrated in society or hunted and killed. Specifically in Africa, cultures and traditions define the level of integration of Albinos in their respective societies.
Did you personaly feel different, as an albino, within your big family? My biggest luck in life is to belong to my family. Since I’m a little girl, they have all been so amazing to me that I just forgot I even was an albino. From my father to my youngest brother, I will eternally be grateful to them since they made me so strong to face the world.
You fight for the rights of albino with the association Care Albinos ? Can you tell us more ? Care Albinos is an association created by the Takeifa band. We are very committed in the field. We gather money thanks to the activities we organize. We provide medical assistance, awareness through media, we work in collaboration with our ministries (health, social welfare, justice, women and children).
Maah Koudia Keita//MUSIC
Albino children are our main target; we focus our prevention for them, to act preventively on the health, but also on education, in order to help them have a more positive perception of their condition. We provide them health care and tips so they take good care of themselves. And we especially help them succeed through their ambitions by themselves, not by begging for help.
Do you think albino people are more easily accepted when they are artists? (Musicians, actors, models) Acceptance of albino is easier when they are artists, actors etc. They are seen as people of the world and can even be adored as they managed to succeed, make a name, a career, a success despite of the disease. This fills me with joy because an increasing number of Albinos live successful lives and I pray hard for the next generations of albino to be even more brilliant! For more information : https://www.facebook.com/ CareAlbinossitetakeifa
writing and translation: Linda Chaabna. Maah Koudia Keita//MUSIC
SHERFY nous parle du high key
Hello Sherfy can you briefly What is the artistic approach in introduce yourself? your high key project? I am a 27 years old photographer based in France. My practice of photography is a little bit wide, photo reportage, wedding, concert, portray, fashion, landscape, wild and so one. I am particularly an observer by nature. Thus Photography is an activity which fit well to me.
You have practiced photography high key, could you give us a simple definition of it ?
The high key is a photographic practice which consists in forcing the lighting such that there is an overexposure of whites and only dark details stand out. However you must be careful in not burning too much high lights. Briefly if we should talk in term of curve, we would see that there are a lot of high lights, a little of low lights and almost nothing between. Sometimes this skill bring to light a mild atmosphere.
I aim to bring to light expressions. The model here is suitable because she has pale skin, dark hair, a small nose and a big mouth. The black make up allow to emphasize these details.
In this serial, I notice that contrasts are strong .Black and white, the wisdom of clothes and the smearing with black make up, innocent glances followed by Machiavellian smile ‌ A word to say on it? Yes, my idea was to make a serial of faces where people would please on the expressions a little bit like clowns, then sad, happy, angry and so one. Do it mainly in black and white have pushed me to specially play with the link good / bad and then angel / devil.
Are there some skills of development particular to this kind of photos?
The development can be pushed, to increase the contrast but I would say that it is above all at the printing that the most of the work is done for instance by hiding the clear parts in order to bring to light dark points like the eyes or the mouth. But I feel that the high key is a skill that we find a lot from the digital.
writing : Laura Bonnieu translation : Madjiguene Diop
Marie-Ève Lévesque Make-Up Artist Facebook: www.facebook.com/MarieEveLevesqueMaquilleuse Website: marievelevesque.wix.com/melmakeupartist
Wedding,graduate ball,photoshoot, make–up courses,film production…
Layout: Laura Bonnieu Axelle Port-lis