Tempus 12

001_Cover.indd 1

28/02/2013 16:40

Shamballa_Tempus_Mar2013.indd 2 000_Ad DPS.indd 2

28/02/2013 14:45

Explore the Energy of Creation

Shamballa Korne Bracelet and Cufflinks Black diamonds and 18K Rhodium plated white gold

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 | www.frostoflondon.co.uk www.shamballajewels.com

000_Ad DPS.indd 3

2013-02-28 14:46 15.00 28/02/2013

* EXACT AND EXULTANT

M ESURE ET DÉMESURE *

000_Ad DPS.indd 2

ATELIER PARMIGIANI 97 MOUNT STREET, W1K2TD LONDON, TEL. 020 7495 5172 LONDON HARRODS | ARIJE YORK HARPERS CHELTENHAM BEARDS

28/02/2013 09:11

TONDA 1950

, ÃiÊ} `Ê 1 ÌÀ> Ì Ê>ÕÌ >Ì VÊ Ûi i ÌÊ iÀ mÃÊ> }>Ì ÀÊÃÌÀ>« >`iÊ Ê-Ü ÌâiÀ > ` ÜÜÜ°«>À } > °V

000_Ad DPS.indd 3

28/02/2013 09:11

000_Ad.indd 2

05/09/2012 14:58

000_Ad.indd 3

05/09/2012 14:58

000_Ad.indd 2

17/09/2012 11:28

000_Ad.indd 3

17/09/2012 11:28

Silk Collection, gold and diamonds -足 www.messika-足paris.com

108 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EF Tel : 020 3372 0108

000_Ad.indd 1 Tempus_MESSIKA_0113.indd 1

25/01/2013 17:28 25/01/13 10:47

- fo r ewo r d -

1st

anniversary issue Contributors

From the editor Editor

Scott Manson

scott.manson@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4693 Art Director

Ross Trigg

ross.trigg@astongreenlake.com 020 3006 2122 Writer

Hannah Silver

hannah.silver@astongreenlake.com Business Development Director

Mark Edwards

mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688 Senior Account Manager

Tom Pettit

t.pettit@astongreenlake.com Senior Account Manager

Maxime Mendelewitsch

maxime@astongreenlake.com Managing Director

Jay Boisvert

It’s been a fabulously exciting year here at Tempus towers. What began as an idea – launching a magazine for watch fans that celebrated a timepiece’s style as much as it did its complexity – has blossomed into the magnificent publication that you see today.

Just 12 months ago, the Tempus team headed out to the massive Swiss watch fair that is Baselworld, clutching a handful of copies of issue 1, and the magazine’s bold design and engaging features proved to be an instant hit with watch collectors and industry experts alike.

Since then, we’ve picked up three award nominations along the way, interviewed scores of celebrity watch lovers and, frankly, had a whale of a time.

This, then, is our anniversary issue – the biggest magazine to date – comprising a captivating collection of luxury lifestyle content. We take a spin in the new Pagani Huayra on page 113, sample London’s best Japanese food on page 25 and, on page 98, reveal some of the greatest golfing destinations on the planet.

Elsewhere, we investigate the growing trend for prestige fashion watches, highlight some fine and rare men’s fragrances and discover why watchmakers are embracing delicate dial art once more.

Oh, and don’t forget to take a look at our latest contributor, the Watch Snob, on page 35. You may not agree with his opinions but he is guaranteed to be an entertaining read.

So, happy birthday to us – here’s to the next 12 months and beyond.

Alex Doak

A contributor to Tempus since issue 1, Alex examines the rise and rise of fashion watches on page 59, highlighting those brands producing high-end horology.

James Foxall

Daily Telegraph motoring columnist James is well placed to reveal the latest trends in the luxury car market, on page 29.

Enjoy the issue.

Vicci Bentley

Tempus is published monthly

by Aston Greenlake publishing Ltd, 8th floor, 6 mitre passage, london se10 0er.

TEL: 020 3617 4688

Vicci is a fragrance writer and frequent contributor to the Financial Times’s How to Spend It magazine. She has won several Jasmine Awards, including ‘Best of the Best 2011’ and, on page 75, highlights the standout men’s premium fragrances.

Scott Manson Editor - 11 -

011_Welcome_1.indd 11

27/02/2013 14:37

w w w . g a y d a m a k j e w e l l e r y. c o m A v a i l a b l e a t F r o s t o f L o n d o n , 1 0 8 N e w B o n d S t r e e t, L o n d o n , 0 2 0 3 3 7 2 0 1 0 8

000_Ad.indd 1

26/02/2013 14:46

- c o n t en ts -

Inside issue twelve

- 68 Stones Immaculate We discover

- 14 Take Me There Head to the Tate

Modern for an exhibition by US artist Roy Lichtenstein

what inspires the Russian founder of Stempovsky Jewellery

- 17 Luxury Briefing Because, it turns

- 75 Statement Scents A look at the best

bold new men’s fragrances

out, the best things in life aren't free, after all

- 82 Access All Areas The world is your

- 25 Food and Drink Where to eat, drink

oyster when you fly privately

and be merry

- 89 The Art of the Dial Watches that are

- 29 -

more than just a pretty face

The Word James Foxall on luxury car

trends; David Williams-Ellis on the sculpture revival

- 98 Playing Away A guide to the world's

- 33 Infographic We reveal the world’s

must-play golf courses

- 105 Grand Designs Boys’ toys just

most popular watch brands

- 35 The Watch Snob The cold hard

truth about your favourite watches - 36 Auction Watch Our pick of the best

89

- 38 Twelve Months of Tempus The

- 121 The Height of Luxury The

- 40 Gold Rush Exclusive adornments Cover: Illustration by István Szugyiczky - debutart.com

smartphone takes centre stage

Knightsbridge gem that is the Jumeirah Carlton Tower Hotel - 124 Dig The New Breed The ultimate

in ultrabooks

- 45 -

- 127 Eat Yourself Healthy How

The Aviator John Travolta reveals his love of watches and jets as well as the latest on his new film

building the body beautiful starts with what you put into it

- 52 Ahead of its Time Cvstos founders

- 131 Beat of the Bodrum A visit to

explain why their ground-breaking brand is the one to watch to take fashion brands' horological ambitions seriously

on the Pagani Huayra

the launch of a collection of seriously special superyachts

highlights from an incredible year

- 59 Beyond the Cawalk Why it's time

- 113 Believe the Hype The spotlight's - 117 New Year, New Yachts 2013 sees

pieces going under the hammer

- 42 Object of Desire Vertu's new

got serious

Special thanks: Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOffice Ed Lawrenson

Bodrum Harbour reveals it to be Turkey's hippest hideaway

- 138 French Fancy Nicolas Sarkozy and

his Girard-Perregaux

- 13 -

013_Contents.indd 13

27/02/2013 14:40

- 14 014-015_Take me there.indd 14

26/02/2013 17:32

- ta k e m e t h er e -

Pop-art genius or one-trick pony? The work of US artist Roy Lichtenstein has divided critics since he first exploded on to our creative consciousness back in the early 1960s, with his hard-edged, precise parodies of old comics helping define the pop-art scene.

London’s Tate Modern is currently hosting a retrospective of his work, running until 27 May, giving visitors a rich survey of this fun, if sometimes formulaic, slice of Americana.

tate.org.uk

014-015_Take me there.indd 15

26/02/2013 17:32

E N G I N E E R S O F LUXU RY SA F E S

FINE SAFES FOR WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND MORE. A Stockinger safe will make you realise that you have done the best for your valuables. Enjoy this good feeling every day of the year, wherever you are and whatever you do. Stockinger bespoke safes combine security, creativity and cra smanship to form exclusive safes for you as a discerning collector of high-quality jewellery and timepieces. Ask us for details. Telephone: +49 (0)89 7590-5828

stockinger.com Handcrafted in germany

STK Anzeige EFR_v01.indd 1 000_Ad.indd 1

19.10.12 19:15 13/12/2012 14:50

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

B ecau s e t h e b est t h i n g s i n li fe a r en't fr ee

It’s complicated

- i wc

The IWC Ingenieur watch collection is the result of a partnership with the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One team and consequently uses tough materials typically found in motorsports, including carbon fibre, ceramics and titanium. The star of the collection is the Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon which, thanks to a patented mechanism integrated in the tourbillon, guarantees an exceptionally precise rate. Extras, particularly the moon-phase module and a platinum and ceramic case, make this a seriously luxurious timepiece.

iwc.com

- 17 -

017-022_Luxury briefing.indd 17

26/02/2013 17:53

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Different times

- H au t len c e

Only created in 2001, Hautlence watches are already widely acclaimed thanks to their high quality, deep complexity and unusual designs. The brand’s latest piece, the HLRQ, is part of its new AvantGarde collection that launched last year. Like the rest of the range, it has an ultra-modern look thanks to a steel, black and titanium DLC coating. The sapphire dial gives a hint of the complexities within, revealing the in-house hand-wound 255-part movement that is studded with 24 jewels.

hautlence.com

017-022_Luxury briefing.indd 18

26/02/2013 17:53

Designer Fabien Muller knows a thing or two about luxury. The son of watchmaking pioneer Franck Muller has married his expertise in high-end craftsmanship with a passion for golf to create a luxury putter that combines impeccable design and unrivalled engineering. The putter has a centre of gravity calculated to less than one micron, ensuring a perfect balance. Carved from a stainless steel block, it’s also studded with rubies, making this arguably the most stylish, and decadent, putter on the planet.

eminent-innovations.com

Stroke of genius

- Va led i cto r i a n

Science of beauty

- C li n i c Lem a n i c

Those looking for great results in the world of aesthetic medicine and anti-ageing treatments should investigate Lausanne’s multi-award winning Clinic Lémanic. Founded in 1998 by Dr Emmenegger, a laser treatment specialist, it has since been recognised by UNESCO for providing truly innovative services and outstanding results – only the second time this honour has been awarded to the medical and aesthetic field. The clinic’s beauty philosophy sees its team specialise in cutting-edge techniques in medical dermatology, anti-age and aesthetic medicine, plastic and reconstructive surgery and revitalisation.

cliniclemanic.ch - 19 -

017-022_Luxury briefing.indd 19

26/02/2013 17:53

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

French fancy

- Ca rt i er

The Calibre de Cartier watch range, created in 2010, has always comprised classic masculine pieces. This year’s update offers a sportier aesthetic thanks to the addition of a new in-house chronograph movement, a new calibre and nice design touches such as a fluted bezel and chronograph push-pieces. It’s technically spot-on too, with a column wheel that acts like a nerve centre for the watch by coordinating the chronograph functions, viewable through a finelycrafted openworked caseback.

cartier.com

- 20 -

017-022_Luxury briefing.indd 20

26/02/2013 17:54

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

000_Ad.indd 1

31/01/2013 16:29

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Horology with heritage - t m b a rt m eta l

TMB Art Metal creates beautiful desk clocks that have a wealth of history thanks to the original engine pistons used in their composition. All the pistons have been sourced from extremely rare and coveted aircraft or cars, making them eminently collectible objects. The brand’s most impressive clocks feature pistons from a Battle of Britain Spitfire’s Rolls-Royce engine and a Bentley Works Speed Six.

tmbartmetal.com

Perpetual motion

- A. La n g e & S o h n e

The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar has more features than its classic dial may lead you to expect. A rattrapante chronograph, moon-phase display, powerreserve indicator and perpetual calendar that won’t need to be corrected until 2100 make this, the brand’s eighth chronograph calibre, the best yet.

alange-soehne.com

- 22 -

017-022_Luxury briefing.indd 22

26/02/2013 17:54

INVEST IN PLEASURE The ex-Works 1953 340/375MM Berlinetta Competizione, chassis no. 0320AM, during the 1953 Le Mans 24 Hour race where it was driven by Hawthorn and Farina. 0320AM will be offered at auction on 25 May at the Villa d’Este auction in Como, Italy.

OFFERING THE WORLD’S FINEST RM Auctions is the global leader in offering investment-grade collector cars. We will return to Villa Erba, Lake Como on 25 May for our biennial sale offering forty of the world’s elite motor cars for auction. Join us to celebrate the grace, power, and mystique of the historic automobile and find your next investment pleasure.

6930-20_VE13_Tempus.indd 1 000_Ad.indd 1

+44 (0) 20 7851 7071

www.rmauctions.com

13-01-30 10:43 AM 31/01/2013 11:22

108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk

G R A N D COL L E C TI ON Five Time Zone & Center Rotor 47 mm Rose Gold Matte Sandblast Black PVD

tempus-Ads.indd 000_Ad.indd 1 3

jacobandco.com

212.719.5887 48 East 57th Street New York, NY jacobandco.com

2/25/13 12:33 PM 26/02/2013 10:13

- fo o d & d r i n k -

Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens MASH

When it comes to the wow factor, this place has it in spades. Formerly home to Titanic, the epitome of London’s glamorous late-1990s dining and drinking scene, this grand subterranean dining room has returned as a meat-lover’s paradise, following a multimillion pound renovation. Based on the edge of Soho, it’s the first overseas venture from a chain of successful Danish steakhouses.

Descend the grand staircase and you’re faced with an opulent bar, the sort of place where you can imagine all manner of clandestine trysts occurring. Between the bar and the dining room, two glass meat lockers hung with ageing beef are testament to what this place does best.

Argentinian, Danish, Uruguayan and US steaks are all on offer here, and we were taken through their various characteristics by friendly and efficient waiting staff. It’s rare you get the chance to meet the meat, so to speak.

Reviewed by Scott Manson

The New York strip steak was tender and moist, and had that slightly sweet taste that comes from a younger cow. The dish that really blew us away though – and I thanked my lucky stars that I was the one who’d ordered it – was an incredible 600g chunk of dry-aged Danish long-bone rib eye that came caramelised on the outside with a dark-pink middle and fantastic flavour. I could, quite honestly, eat this for lunch and dinner every day. Sadly, I don’t have Teflon arteries so it will have to remain an occasional treat.

And what a treat. London may have no

shortage of steak restaurants but, on this showing, MASH easily lives up to the star billing of better-known carnivore’s paradises such as Hawksmoor.

Highly recommended.

mashsteak.dk

All change at the Halkin

London’s Halkin hotel has long been a favourite for foodies, and it now has a new restaurant – Ametsa – to attract them further. The big draw is a menu by the team behind Arzak, the triple Michelin-starred San Sebastián restaurant headed up Elena Arzak. Diners can enjoy the ‘new Basque cuisine’ that Arzak is famed for, with traditional meat and fish dishes turned into a multisensory experience. comohotels.com/thehalkin - 25 -

025-026_Food and Drink.indd 25

26/02/2013 17:57

- fo o d & d r i n k -

A wine match that’s made in heaven

The wines of Angelo Gaja have put the Italian town of Barbaresco on the map. The latest vintages of Gaja’s top wines were being paired with a delectable five-course tasting menu in London restaurant Clos Maggiore.

Angelo’s daughter Gaia explained how life in Piemonte was governed by the grapes: “When we played in the streets as children and it rained, we wouldn’t think about getting wet, all we considered was how the rain would affect the grapes.”

Umu Umu is long regarded as one of the best, if not the best, Japanese restaurants in London, so it’s unsurprising that securing a booking at this celebration of traditional Kyoto-style kaiseki cuisine requires plenty of forward planning. Although we visited on a Tuesday on a wet winter’s day, the place was packed to the rafters with diners enjoying its selection of cured, raw, fried, simmered and grilled dishes. At £100 a pop for the full tasting menu, the bill can quickly rack up, but frankly when you’re experiencing food this good, it’s easy to push financial concerns to one side.

This is Japanese cooking at its most refined, comprising a series of perfectly crafted seasonal small dishes designed to showcase the skills and artistry of the chefs. Among the highlights was a delicate Cornish spider crab served with quince purée and compote, some super fresh sashimi (including possibly the best mackerel I’ve ever eaten), abalone served with black Perigord truffle and scallop

Reviewed by Scott Manson and vegetables carved so intricately my dining partner was convinced they must have a brigade of small elves doing prep out the back.

The real standout though, and one dish that I would definitely liked to have seen served as a bigger portion, was the charcoal grilled saddle of roe deer, served with a haunch ragu. Deep, rich and just the right shade of pink, this monarch of the glen did not die in vain.

A beautiful room, full of beautiful people, serving truly outstanding food, Umu is the perfect choice for a memorable special occasion.

umurestaurant.com

by Peter Dean Three gajas worthy of your attention

Gaja, Sito Moresco 2010

Paired with foie gras and breast of wood pigeon terrine, a wild mushroom salad and toasted hazelnut bread, this is one of my favourite Italian reds. It is a nebbiolo, cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend which has warm fruit on the nose, but enough acidity to make it a quality mid-week quaff. The wine’s name refers to the former owner who lost his vineyards in a bet.

£260 a case of 12. - frw.co.uk Gaja, Barbaresco 2009

Angelo’s flagship wine, produced since 1859, is a 100% nebbiolo and was served with oven roasted fillet of venison with sauce poivrade.

It is a classy wine with layer upon layer of ripe red fruit, woven into a silky, polished texture. This was magnificent, even though it’s best drunk from 2017.

£990 a case of 12 - farrvintners.com Gaja, Langhe Rosso, Sori San Lorenzo 2003

The only way is up value-wise for this blockbuster, provided you can lay your hands on some. It’s complex, with a full, long hit of rich fruit, nicely balanced by a creamy minerality.

£1,250 for a case of 6 armitwines.co.uk - 26 -

025-026_Food and Drink.indd 26

26/02/2013 17:58

QUATTRO VALVOLE 44 CHRONOGRAPH LIMITED EDITION

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - www.FrostofLondon.co.uk

000_Ad.indd 1

25/02/2013 17:03

Swiss movement, English heart

Bespoke Unitas 6497 hand-wound movement (Calibre JJ02) from master watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke / Each piece, of only 250, personally assembled by Johannes in our Swiss atelier / Supremely engineered, 43mm, 316L stainless steel case with full diameter transparent case-back / Unique serial number engraved on case and movement / Premium Louisiana alligator deployment strap / 5 year movement guarantee

050_ChristopherWard_Tempus.indd 1

19/02/2013 10:26

- t h e wo r d -

Luxury car trends James Foxall James Foxall writes a weekly column for the Daily Telegraph motoring section.

If you have to ask how much, you can’t afford it. So goes the old cliché, allegedly first spoken in relation to yachts. But I guarantee that over the years many luxury car dealers will have thought it, even if they haven’t said it out loud to prospective clients. And they have every right to. Owning a car that costs six or seven figures to buy is a serious business.

The annual service for a Bugatti Veyron comes in at a cool £14,000. Four new tyres cost £23,500. Kerb a wheel and it’s a walletweakening £7000 for a new one. You get the picture. So in these financially straitened times you might expect such overt profligacy to be a bit 2006. And that has certainly been the case in this country.

The luxury car market shrank in 2008 and 2009 as owners rushed to sell their expensive motors to liquidate assets or get out of costly finance agreements as the recession bit. Values in turn tumbled and auction houses were awash – relatively speaking of course – with Lamborghinis and Bentleys.

The overall size in the market for new cars costing more than £75,000 is still down about 30% compared to pre-2008 levels. But the trade claims that confidence is returning.

Clive Sutton, a London dealer who’s just sold a pearlescent white Bugatti Veyron

(price undisclosed), reckons buyers are again paying over the odds for some cars. The current hot tickets are the Ferrari 456 Spider and Lamborghini Aventador, both of which Sutton claims are currently making between £30,000 and £60,000 more than list price.

But those heady days when Gordon Brown smugly proclaimed the boom and bust cycle was a thing of the past still seem a long way off. And the market is being stifled by a lack of easy access to credit, so things are unlikely to return to their pre-recession state in the very near future. Car makers can at least be thankful that the UK’s luxury car market is tiny, making up just 0.4% of the two million new cars sold here last year.

Lucky then that the rest of the world’s appetite is increasingly voracious. Bentley boasted an overall sales boost of 22% in 2012.

Sales in its second largest market, China, were up by 23%. And four out of every 10 of its £225,000 Mulsannes went to China.

It’s a similar story at Rolls-Royce. The most successful of the firm’s dealerships is in Beijing. Next up are Abu Dhabi and Shanghai.

Saudi Arabia reported Rolls sales up 63%.

These results helped the company to its third consecutive record year in its 108-year history.

That’s pretty remarkable when you think that its ‘cheapest’ model, the Ghost, costs £200,000.

But then Rolls-Royce owners are a breed apart. A worker at the factory recently told me of an American owner who liked to put a chilled towel round his neck after he’d played tennis. He commissioned Rolls to build a bespoke fridge for the back of his new £313,000 Phantom. It was a mammoth £60,000 extra, which he accepted without even a blink of surprise…

- 29 -

029-030_the word.indd 29

26/02/2013 17:51

- t h e wo r d -

The sculpture revival David Williams-Ellis David Williams-Ellis is one of the world’s leading figurative sculptors, whose unique life-sized portrait, bird and animal sculptures are cast in bronze, silver and glass.

In recent years there has been a massive resurgence in figurative sculpture. This is, I believe, because people desire sculpture that they can relate to. Many artworks struggle to create a sense of empathy with the viewer that gives the sculpture a reason for being where it is. It has to excite, to fill the site with its form and make you want to return.

At a domestic level, people want to own something they love and are happy to live with.

A painting or sculpture should offer something different and thought-provoking every time.

I was fortunate to come from an artistic family. My sister, Bronwyn Williams-Ellis, is a ceramicist and my great uncle, Clough Williams-Ellis, designed Portmeirion. I have always been interested in architecture. Modern sculpture and architecture draw impulses and inspiration from each other.

The Shard and the Guggenheim Museum are stunning sculptures in themselves. When you enter the immediate environs of many iconic buildings, however, you find that you are entering a repetitive architectural space with little differentiation. This is where figurative sculpture can really contribute something to the people who live and work in such buildings.

Elizabeth Frink’s Water Buffalo in Exchange Square, Hong Kong, exemplifies how sculpture

can humanise public spaces that are normally designed with a very simple or even minimal line or form. Another example is my threemetre tall Watcher commissioned by Swire Properties for their Island East development in Hong Kong. A quiet, watchful, static figure – ever thoughtful among the teeming masses – is set in a very simple contemporary architectural setting, inviting those that work there to identify with that building.

As individuals, we generally identify with what we recognise, hence the value of representational art in an abstract environment. Where abstract art tends to rely on the association of form to suggest meaning, representational art establishes its identity by extending the real three-dimensional space to the viewer.

Some of the world’s great new museums emphasise this approach by placing stunning masterpieces in very simple contemporary buildings, giving the artworks centre stage.

Of course, putting very minimal designs among classical surroundings is equally striking – none more so than I M Pei’s Louvre pyramid – a beautiful juxtaposition.

Sculpture can also have a social benefit. I have just designed a group of loosely modelled falcons in different positions on high pillars for a courtyard setting within a series of new contemporary buildings. The sculpture composition is specifically made so that a person can walk comfortably between, and around, each sculpture. This draws the viewer in and makes the courtyard a gathering point.

My dream commission would be to create a series of twice life-sized somersaulting figures between two really iconic contemporary buildings. It would also be interesting to do something with the residential developments springing up south of the river in London. From a distance they can appear architecturally quite interesting, but when you are up close and in their midst, they can feel very soulless.

The true power of sculpture is that it works beyond the visual. It grabs you and gives you something that you can’t quite grasp. It fulfils a need.

- 30 -

029-030_the word.indd 30

26/02/2013 17:51

000_Ad.indd 1

16/01/2013 13:43

000_Ad.indd 1

04/02/2013 09:52

- i n fo g r a p h i c -

World Watch Report

Fr a n c k M u ller »4.87% U lyss e N a r d i n »2.81%

Nautilus

A qu at i m e r

El Primero

R oya l Oa k O f fs h o r e

Mark

Pilot

Po rto fi n o

R e v e rs o

Po rt u g u e s e

r oya l oa k

IWC

Z en i t h

IWC

IWC

Sub-total 44.53% - Others 55.47%

B la n c pa i n »2.73%

Pat e k P h i l i p p e

B r eg u et »5.39%

A u d e m a rs P i g u e t

Au d em a rs P i g u et »7.72%

IWC

Vac h ero n C o n sta n t i n »8.14%

J a eg e r-L e C o u lt r e

Ja eg er-LeC o u lt r e »10.82%

iwc

Z en i t h »11.38%

7.36 % 6.66 % 5.68 % 4.71 % 4.44 % 3.55 % 3.32 % 3.29 % 2.97 % 2.54 %

Pat ek P h i li p p e »16.6%

A u d e m a rs P i g u e t

IWc »23.99%

Model

Brand market share worldwide

Top 10 most searched watch models worldwide

Brand

The World Watch Report is an annual online survey, conducted by the Digital Luxury Group, of over 1.1bn anonymous and unbiased consumer intentions expressed by watch aficionados searching for luxury brands online. The findings are a result of scanning four internet search engines across 20 international markets and encompassing over 40 watch brands.

The results make fascinating reading for watch fans and industry observers alike, with IWC clearly proving popular throughout last year. We’ve cherrypicked a couple here. worldwatchreport.com

G i r a r d-P er r egau x »1.85% A. La n g e & S o h n e »1.78% R i c h a r d M i lle »0.99% Ro g er D u b o i s »0.67% Jaqu et D roz »0.26% - 33 -

033_Infographic.indd 33

27/02/2013 14:41

000_Ad.indd 1

16/08/2012 11:59

The

- watc h s n o b Got a question about timepieces? Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned, you may not like what he has to say…

The X factor Hi Snob, I am writing to ask about Xemex watches.

I have always been interested in watches and spent several years in college learning to repair pocket watches. I’m interested at a real level but I need some advice about the brands in the marketplace. Some Xemex are produced with Valjoux movements; others are not. Can you appraise the brand in general terms?

I am feeling generous today so will give you more than you requested and appraise the brand in very specific terms: pure rubbish.

In school days, I sat next to a boy who was obsessed with Italian supercars. Mind you, this was the 1980s, when these cars were all about scissor doors and origami body panels. This chap would sketch cars of his own devising, far more garish than the real things, all wings and air dams and scoops and giant rims. We lost touch in the years after school, but I bumped into him at a soirée in St. Moritz to find that he is now working for Bentley, designing tail lamps. Clearly his liking for outlandish designs had matured into tasteful understatement.

Why do I bring this up? Because Ruedi Külling, the designer behind Xemex, either never outgrew the overblown whims of his youth or else his son is providing the design drawings for the Offroad and the XE 5000 models, right down to its matching yellow strap. It’s not just the pedestrian movements, or the contrived names, and not even the designschool-reject aesthetics that I abhor. It’s the fact that the company is asking more than £2,000 for these eyesores. I advise you to take your money elsewhere. £2,000 will almost buy you something respectable.

Kinetic Time Hola Snob, I have a kinetic watch (Oakley Time Bomb), but there is not a kinetic watch winder available. How do I keep it charged without wearing it or shaking it up vigorously every day? A standard watch winder won’t do because they only work with automatic watches.

I can think of no watch with a more fitting name than the Oakley Time Bomb. It is a disaster. I do not condone wearing this watch every day, to charge it or for any other reason.

So it appears that you’re left with shaking it vigorously daily. Throwing it against the wall repeatedly should be equally effective.

To read more from the Watch Snob, head to askmen.com

Size matters Dear Snob, I bought my first ‘real’ watch, an IWC Mark XVI, last year. I’m sure you’ll think it a somewhat pedestrian choice, but I bring it up because the watch fits perfectly on my wrist and I absolutely love it. It is not too big and not too small. I’ve noticed that makers of prestige timepieces keep upping the size. I was wondering if you have any insight from the manufacturers whether they plan to reverse this trend. Most of these inflated watches look silly – especially so on people like me who do not have particularly large wrists. Also, in your opinion, how much should one’s wrist size play in their purchase choice?

You are correct: The Mark XVI is a pedestrian choice, but you are also correct in saying that it is a perfect size. I believe that 39 millimeters is arguably the ideal size for a man’s watch. So what did IWC do recently? It made the new Mark XVII larger. Someone needs to tell the firm that increasing a watch’s Mark number doesn’t necessitate enlarging its diameter.

I do not have any insight from manufacturers about their size trends. What I do know is that most of the brands that I hold in highest esteem still make watches in modest sizes, though Lange has scared me by increasing the size of the Datograph dangerously close to an unacceptable diameter. The acceptable range for most male wrists is 36 to 40 millimetres, and there’s no excuse for buying larger unless you’re a sumo wrestler.

Your wrist size should have no bearing on your watch purchases unless you are drawn to one of the behemoths that I am often asked about. In that case, you deserve whichever ill-fitting watch you choose.

- 35 -

035_Watch snob.indd 35

27/02/2013 15:13

- au ct i o n watc h -

Underthe hammer Stylish drinkware, a classic Ferrari and a rare ring… Here’s the best that auctioneers have on offer

RM Auctions The Silver Vaults

The Silver Vaults are holding an elegant exhibition focusing on beautiful Art Deco silverware. Great pieces like this cocktail shaker, circa 1940, and four 1936 cocktail ‘coupes’ are up for grabs. Twist the cocktail shaker to reveal some retro recipes.

The exhibition runs from 2 March until the end of June. The coupes cost approximately £750 and the shaker around £700. thesilvervaults.com

RM Auctions’ car sales are legendary.

Arguably the most exciting piece from its next collection is this Ferrari 340/375 MM that has been raced at Le Mans by various renowned drivers. It’s also the proud holder of a never-broken record pace achieved by driver Umberto Maglioli when he won Mexico’s 1954 Carrera Panamericana race.

The RM sale is in Lake Como, Italy on 25 May. Estimate available upon request. rmauctions.com

Bonhams

This extremely rare blue diamond ring, circa 1965, is a highlight piece from the next Bonhams sale. Showcased in a ‘Trombino’ style by Bulgari, the stunning stone is set horizontally and surrounded by brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds.

The Bonhams Fine Jewellery Sale is on 24 April. The ring is estimated at £1,000,000 to £1,500,000. bonhams.com

- 36 -

036_Auction.indd 36

26/02/2013 17:49

Domino collection

www.robertodemeglio.it www.fattoamanoinitalia.it

000_Ad.indd 1

28/02/2013 15:19

- y ea r i n r ev i ew -

- 1 2 m o n t h s of T e m p u s Since launch, Tempus has gone from strength to strength, highlighting the world’s best watches and picking up a few award nominations along the way. Here’s to the next 12 months!

Tempus around the world

We discovered

This year we have…

The best cocktails at London’s Playboy club, courtesy of super suave barman Salvatore Calabrese

Been scuba diving in the Turks and Caicos with world record-breaking free diver Tanya Streeter Relaxed on Fregate Private Island in the Seychelles

How magician Dynamo walked across the Thames

Gasped at the first all-diamond ring at Baselworld 2012 Soared above Victoria Falls in a microlight

The Blackberry technology integrated into deLaCour watches.

Ridden elephants in Thailand's Golden Triangle

How high-wire walker Freddie Nock trained to walk 3km, 300m above a lake

Been pampered at Terme di Saturnia spa in Tuscany, Italy Visited Glasshutte in Germany to learn about Nomos watches

The fashionable side of footballer John Carew

Enjoyed a Michelin-starred gastronomic odyssey in Madrid Skied in Courchevel

The Prodigy’s Keith Flint’s love of motorbikes and watches.

Experienced paradise in the Maldives

What they said

‘I have to make ‘Muhammed something Ali told me if eye-catching, I worked hard something I could achieve that if I tell anything.’ my mum she’s - Boxer Amir Khan mad at me for having made it.’

- US enfant terrible jewellery designer Jason Arasheben, of Jason of Beverly Hills fame

“Beauty is useless.”

‘Since opening my restaurant - Design guru in London, Philippe Starck I’ve learned ‘My daughters that British lawyers are scream with very, very laughter expensive.’ at any comparison to - Russian restaurateur Novikov on Jacob & Co.’ Arkady doing business in - Jeweller to the stars Theo Fennell

Britain

Boxer David Haye’s desire to play a Bond villain.

The magazine ‘Oscars’ Last year also saw the magazine nominated for three prestigious editorial awards:

British Society of Magazine Editors Editor of the year

Content Marketing Awards

Launch of the year Art director of the year

- 38 -

038_Tempus.indd 38

27/02/2013 14:42

U-BOAT

U-51 BLACK & BRONZE LIMITED EDITION TO 300

Because, when you look closely you realise that this is a hybrid bronze and PVD timepiece that it is going to age over time and grow with you. Because there are only 300 in the entire world and yours will be hand-made and have human strokes of genius and main-d’œuvre. Because the calf-leather strap is hand-distressed and sewn together in Italy by the most enduring process. Because the Swiss automatic movement has a 44-hour power reserve and beats 28,800 times an hour.

facebook.com/uboatuk

Now you know.

000_Ad.indd 1

@uboatuk

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

19/12/2012 09:33

- fas h i o n & ac c ess o r i es -

frostoflondon.co.uk

Gold rush The latest in cutting edge luxury from Frost of London

01 Gaydamak

Adorn your hands with this innovative bracelet from Parisian brand Gaydamak: Karioka Hand Bracelet in 18ct yellow gold with brown diamonds.

ÂŁ7,392

040-041_Fashion and Accessories.indd 40

26/02/2013 18:04

02

03

02 Messika

Embody the essence of spring and dress your décolleté with this stunning necklace from Messika: Butterfly Baby Duetto in 18ct rose gold with diamonds.

From £2,260

03 Chrome Hearts

04

Chrome Hearts’ new Grand Beast sunglasses are some seriously impressive eye candy, comprising 18ct gold with ebony and walnut in a piano varnish finish.

£15,000

04 Shamballa

The epitome of everyday luxury comes in the form of Shamballa Jewels’ phenomenal string bracelets, which are as individual as its wearers. Raw black diamond pave beads and 18ct yellow gold sanskrit beads.

POA

05

05 TF est. 1968

Bring a sombre suit to life with these impressive TF est. 1968 of Geneva, Switzerland Tourbillion cufflinks. 18ct yellow gold with silver carbon and 108 diamonds.

£9,495

- 41 -

040-041_Fashion and Accessories.indd 41

28/02/2013 10:29

042-043 Objects of desire.indd 42

27/02/2013 14:44

- o bj ects o f d es i r e -

Vertu Vertu created the original luxury mobile that redefined phones as we know them. Now it’s pushing the boundaries once again. The Vertu Ti is as sleek as its predecessors but more technologically advanced thanks to its new status as a smartphone (powered by Android). A polished titanium case means this is a sturdy piece, around five times stronger than other smartphones, while the largest sapphire crystal screen ever engineered is virtually scratch-proof and promises awesome clarity. Leather accents and a clean, unfussy aesthetic make the Vertu Ti a clear stand-out in what is quickly becoming a crowded market.

frostoflondon.co.uk

- 43 -

042-043 Objects of desire.indd 43

27/02/2013 14:44

11, Bd Raspail, Paris VII - 124, Bd Haussmann, Paris VIII TĂŠl. : 01 45 48 57 26

www.matthewcookson.com

000_Ad.indd 1

18/01/2013 09:02

- g o o d t i m es -

Words – Frank Grice

- 45 -

045-048_QA Good times.indd 45

27/02/2013 14:46

- g o o d t i m es -

t h e av i ato r

- 46 -

045-048_QA Good times.indd 46

28/02/2013 09:51

John Travolta is standing on an empty runway, a silver propeller plane behind him, with a pilot’s helmet in one hand and on the other a Breitling watch, catching the light of the desert sun.

It’s an image of the 58-year-old that’s as iconic as any of his film roles – from the dancefloor don in Saturday Night Fever to the ponytailed hitman in Quentin Tarantino’s Pulp Fiction.

Here he talks watches, jets and a new project with Robert De Niro. Clearly, for this movie megastar, the fever still burns…

Tell us about your work with Breitling

Is it work? I think I’ve called myself their poster boy, or maybe that’s what they like to call me. They like the spectacular settings – city skylines, the racetrack, but in front of a plane predominantly. It’s a nice image to match with an awesome brand, and I’m happy to go along with it.

You’ve recently had some competition with Breitling signing up David Beckham too. Is that pressure?

Has it been a long relationship?

Yes it has been a few years now. I go to the Reno air show and there’s always a different photograph taken each year. In August last year we did a jumpsuit shot next to a WWII Mustang P-51 which was awesome. You can’t understand the magnitude of these aircraft and the role they played in the liberation of our troops until you stand alongside one.

045-048_QA Good times.indd 47

No, I don’t think so.

David’s a really cool guy who can carry off any look. I’m a bit more focused on a specific genre these days so I don’t think we need to compete with one another.

You talk about aircraft as though it’s another lifelong passion of yours. Is it true to say that?

Have you always had a passion for greatlooking watches?

I guess so, yes. Having a great watch on your arm is a real statement. It shows you mean business, offers a bit of style and authority. Right from the start I really wanted to get involved with such a strong brand, and a brand that has been around for many years.

It was through my work with Qantas that the Breitling opportunity came about. I was already the airline’s ambassadorat-large around the world doing lots of stuff across multiple continents. If you think how close the link is to Breitling then it made sense for me to be their spokesperson too.

Yes, definitely. Even before the days of Saturday Night Fever I was mad about flying, about discovering and enjoying these awesome machines. As I kid I used to obsess over classic aircraft, then at 16, when I was old enough to start flying lessons, I took the next step.

27/02/2013 14:46

- g o o d t i m es -

That’s right. I was investing all the money I had into flying. By the age of 20, I’d earned my pilot’s licence. Then I spent $2,500 on buying an old plane. I now own a small fleet and have good qualifications, but that’s where it all started.

Back to the watches, your favourite must be the Breitling Navitimer?

Absolutely. I never take it off. There is not a better watch for aviation enthusiasts and professionals. It’s perfectly designed, comes equipped with a circular slide rule, and handles navigation calculations superbly.

What do you look for in a watch?

I guess I’d say it was style and precision. Both are equally important to me. A good watch is something that you don’t need to flash about – it’s just there, doing a job. And it’s a case of knowing and appreciating the workmanship that goes into the watch. In that respect it’s quite similar to piloting – I adore piloting but don’t need to know everything about the motors. It’s the same with watches – I know that the Breitling watch is a precise and reliable watch and that’s why I choose it.

Well, that all depends on what sort of character I’m looking to portray.

Most of mine through the years have been the types of guys who could well be seen wearing a really nice wristwatch, though not all! I have some interesting projects coming up - including Killing Season with Robert De Niro – but wouldn’t like to push my passion for watches too far. It’s an honour to be working finally with De Niro; that’s enough for me right now.

I’m at the point where I’m being nicely selective about the movies I appear in. I’m not at the point in time where I’m going to do anything I don’t want to do. That’s a nice place to be.

Photography - s_bukley / Shutterstock.com

So you’d wear the Breitling on set?

So your early acting didn’t so much fund the movie star lifestyle, more a passion for enjoying aviation?

How do you choose a movie these days?

Well, to me it’s all down to the scenario and the director, although movies will always surprise you.

The two biggest movies in my career I imagined to be something completely different when I was looking at the scripts. In that respect, Pulp Fiction was very much like Saturday Night Fever. I looked at them when they came through and imagined that they would both be relatively small art films. Even those people I spoke to around that time could see them making waves but not really hitting the heights. Of course, what we ended up with was two monsters.

It’s really interesting how that happens sometimes, and I think it’s a good thing. If big films were always successful and small films never went global it would be a very sanitised industry.

Is the industry more dynamic than ever given the way it has been opened up by the internet?

I don’t think it was ever a closed industry, but the internet has obviously been important in terms of new actors, directors and producers coming to the fore. There’s still a lot of hard work that goes into making it though. You still have to be extremely talented, passionate and dogged if you’re to succeed in the film industry.

John Travolta is a brand ambassador for Breitling breitling.com

- 48 -

045-048_QA Good times.indd 48

27/02/2013 14:47

www.frostoflondon.co.uk - 108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - Tel: 020 3372 0108

000_Ad.indd 1

18/01/2013 11:36

000_Ad DPS.indd 2

03/01/2013 16:51

000_Ad DPS.indd 3

03/01/2013 16:51

052-056_Cvstos.indd 52

27/02/2013 14:56

Ahead of its time Ahead of its time Ahead of its time Ahead of its time Ahead of its time

- cvsto s -

Words – Scott Manson

Sassoun Sirmakes, standing, and Antonio Terranova are the visionaries behind Cvstos

Ahead of its time Ahead of its time Ahead of its time Ahead of its time Ahead of its time

Cvstos is a young firm but its impact on the world of luxury watches has been huge. Its founders explain their success

To build a powerhouse watch brand, you need some big hitters on board. Cvstos, a relative newcomer to the luxury watch market, launched in 2005, has just that.

Thanks to the vision of founders, CEO Sassoun Sirmakes and technical director Antonio Terranova, it has quickly achieved superwatch status.

For anyone familiar with the watch industry, though, this success is no surprise. Sassoun’s father, Vartan Sirmakes, is the co-owner and chairman of the Franck Muller Watchland Group. A serious player in the watch world, Vartan’s advice and knowledge proved invaluable during the early days of Cvstos.

“Although I’d been working at Franck Muller on Saturdays since I was 12 years old, I joined full time at 17, and did my ‘apprentissage’ there,” says Sassoun. “I learned so much from my father – technical proficiency, experience, dealing with partners and the principles of good design.”

Very quickly, Sassoun demonstrated that he had his father’s innate business sense, restructuring the small gem-setting department to increase its production capacities. Within

two years he had transformed it into a largescale operation, one of Switzerland’s biggest gem-setters, with more than 50 employees reporting to him.

For many 19 year olds, rising to this prominent position at such an age would be a coup in itself, but Sassoun had bigger ideas.

He had a vision of a new watchmaker – one that combined premium technology with a ‘tough luxe’ aesthetic. In other words, watches that could be worn both as dress timepieces and for sporting activities.

“Age is not important,” says Sassoun. “What is important is experience. In fact, if anything, my relatively young age is an advantage because it means I can relate to the new breed of retailers. Like Frost of London, for example.”

Providing the ideas, strategy and production knowledge for his new venture, Sassoun needed a supremely talented designer/technical director to make his vision a reality. That person was Antonio Terranova, a respected designer schooled in watches from an early age. Born in the Swiss watchmaking heartland that is La Chaux-de-Fonds, Antonio spent six years training as a micro-technical specialist

- 53 -

052-056_Cvstos.indd 53

27/02/2013 14:56

052-056_Cvstos.indd 54

27/02/2013 14:55

- cvsto s -

Cvstos's Challenge range of watches stylishly embodies the firm's 'tough luxe' aesthetic

- 55 -

052-056_Cvstos.indd 55

27/02/2013 14:56

- cvsto s -

Cvstos's high-end product, far right, is manufactured on the site of a castle near Geneva, above and centre

“I feel inspired every day. Cvstos combines avant-garde design with groundbreaking technology. These are happy times”

before designing his own watch, dubbed the Terranova No 1.

It wasn’t long before his talents were spotted, with Antonio recruited to take charge of technical development at Prodor SA, a watch developer for high-end brands such as Piaget and Cartier. His career went from strength to strength, with spells designing for Ebel, TAG Heuer, Zenith and Breitling along the way.

Now, though, his creativity has been freed to soar to new heights as business partner Sassoun shares his passion for watches that push the boundaries of design and performance.

For proof, look no further than Cvstos’s Challenge Jet-Liner Carbon – a symphony of inlaid carbon fibre, set marquetry style behind windows cut out of a red gold (or titanium) case. With its openworked, multi-layered dials, cases composed of avant-garde materials, and innovative movements, the entire Jet-Liner collection is a brilliant realisation of the watchmaker’s art.

“We also used titanium a great deal in this collection as it is light, has a great coefficient of elasticity, excellent hardness, it’s hypoallergenic and is a stunning colour. Perfect for our purposes,” says Antonio.

Arguably the most exciting piece in the

range, though, is a Challenge RMT-S Tourbillon Sport. Boasting a flying tourbillon movement, 60 hours power reserve, minute repeater and 100m water resistance, it has a truly original look and grabbed the attention of watch collectors worldwide.

“It’s an unusual repeater,” says Sassoun, “Because it’s a watch you can wear every day.

You can even swim while wearing it – this is not something delicate, but a genuinely robust piece of technology.”

Cvstos’s reputation continues to grow, with a recent partnership with supercar brand Pagani seeing them create a limited run of 50 Zonda F Chrono watches, featuring various automotive design accents referenced in the case design. Like the Zonda F car, the subsequent popularity of these watches sees them typically sell in the secondary market for more than their original retail price.

“I feel inspired every day,” concludes Sassoun.

“Antonio and his team combine avant-garde design with groundbreaking technology, resulting in watches that look good, yes, but which are also incredibly efficient and accurate.

These are happy times.”

Bold, high tech and bang on trend, Cvstos promises big things this year – and beyond.

- 56 -

052-056_Cvstos.indd 56

27/02/2013 14:56

Innovation. Renovation.

If ever a professional home training tool can get you moving it’s RECLINE PERSONAL. The only stationary recumbent bike derived from scientific research to ensure better posture and correct biomechanics. While keeping you connected to e-mail, your favourite sites, watching TV or listening to your music playlists through new VISIOWEB.

Designed by Antonio Citterio

Take the first step and discover our complete range of cardiovascular, strength and movement products on line.

Visit www.technogym.com or call free on 0800 316 2496 to speak to one of our consultants.

000_Ad.indd 1

17/01/2013 16:34

C

M

J

C M

M J

C J

C M J

N

000_Ad.indd 1

27/02/2013 16:01

- fas h i o n watc h es -

Words – Alex Doak

beyond the catwalk

No longer the entry-level tat they used to be, watches from the fashion brands are teaching the Swiss firmament a thing or two. Alex Doak investigates the sudden acquisition of horological kudos by the likes of Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior and asks whether the purists will ever be convinced - 59 -

059-066_Beyond the Catwalk.indd 59

27/02/2013 15:18

- fas h i o n watc h es -

e’re all used to reading that hoary old cliché, “Brand X takes the fashion world by storm,” but it’s not too often you hear, “Brand X takes the watch world by storm” – especially when ‘X’ is better known for its little black dresses and quilted handbags.

But that’s exactly what Chanel did when it launched its J12 wristwatch in 2000. This wasn’t a cheap entry-level plastic watch, to be sold alongside the brand’s fragrances in department stores. Rather this cost more than £1,000 – and looked it. Not only was it made in a purpose-built factory, slap-bang in fine watchmaking’s own backyard La Chaux-deFonds, but it was also crafted from a material that only one Swiss brand, the Swatch Group’s Rado, had managed to master thus far: ceramic.

Brainchild of Chanel’s late artistic director, Jacques Helleu – the ‘eyes’ of Paris’s most famous brand for more than four decades – J12’s gestation lasted seven years: it took time to find material that met Helleu’s demands for a shiny black watch, which didn’t chip as easily as the now-ubiquitous PVD coatings.

After employing the expertise of a bridge designer and investigating the brake linings on a fighter jet, Helleu came up with his ceramic case – ensuring the J12’s credibility with watch aficionados who tend to dismiss the products of fashion houses as merely ornamental.

“Some of the people who were involved on a commercial level early on told me it would

059-066_Beyond the Catwalk.indd 60

never sell: that it was a big mistake and I shouldn’t do it. They are not with us now,” he said darkly in 2006.

Apparently, convincing his colleagues to produce just one ‘hero’ model rather than a range of watches was only half the battle.

Helleu then had to persuade his colleagues of the legitimacy of ceramic as a luxury material.

“It was kind of a dangerous decision,” he said, “because the Rado watch is just what I didn’t want to do. I had to fight to convince people that through the design aspect, the material would become less important than the design statement itself.”

It was no coincidence that the silky black bracelet happened to echo the Chanel handbag’s classic signature leitmotif of quilted, glossy monochrome.

Helleu put his eggs into one basket with the J12, banking on one model to form the

27/02/2013 15:18

Watches from Burberry, below and left, and Hermès, right, exemplify high fashion brands’ recent interest in luxury timepieces

core of Chanel’s line. It was a risk that paid off, despite his superiors’ concerns. Proving the case shape’s versatility and longevity, J12 has flourished, diversifying into countless permutations including tourbillons and the iridescent ‘Chromatic’ born of Chanel’s ongoing, in-house R&D into ceramic.

As fashion historian and former features editor of British Vogue Bronwyn Cosgrave notes, Chanel made a brave move by being the first fashion brand to go there with a ‘Swiss Made’ watch. “Making the J12 ‘unisex’ was also a very smart move, as Chanel doesn’t have a men’s market beyond fragrances,” says Cosgrave, “therefore, it’s a way of testing the men’s market. Thanks to the J12’s success, I think it’s only a matter of time before Chanel launch a men’s ready-to-wear collection.

“But what many don’t realise,” she adds, “is that these watches are often a hybrid of the couture houses’ fashion and jewellery – the couture houses are using them as a bridge, introducing ready-to-wear customers to their fine jewellery collections.”

Since the J12 launched, nearly every other major fashion house has now braved the luxury watchmaking marketplace, entering

“Many don’t realise these watches are often a hybrid of couture houses’ fashion and jewellery” at varying levels of the horological hierarchy.

And to the surprise of many, some genuinely iconic watches have emerged: Louis Vuitton’s bulbous Tambour for example; Burberry’s new future classic, the ‘Britain’, driven by automatic movements from ETA; and of course Dior.

Instead of sticking to a core range like Chanel, Dior Watches originally approached

the ‘proper’ watch from three angles, using their three top designers at the time: John Galliano, who designed the J12-like sapphireclad ‘Christal’ from an haute couture angle, now evolved into ‘VIII’; Hedi Slimane, whose Chiffre Rouge watches still embody his crepuscular, lounge lizard Dior Homme look (now found over at YSL); and Victoire de Castellane, with her delightfully batty ‘La D’ cocktail watches – the peacocks of Montres Dior, displaying wonderfully garish 1970s-style hardstone dials.

As Valérie Lachaux, CEO of Dior Watches notes, it’s all about offering choice but at the highest level. “We are deliberately playing the creativity card, but it is innovation that is really driving these changes – it has become a key success factor in [the fashion watch] market, especially with regard to materials used; for example the use of pyramid-cut sapphire crystal in the Christal collection.

- 61 -

059-066_Beyond the Catwalk.indd 61

27/02/2013 15:18

- fas h i o n watc h es -

“After all, watches are no longer made explicitly for telling the time!” Lachaux reminds us. “Today’s consumers use their watches to make a statement, as well as being drawn to more technical functions. The high standards of luxury Swiss watchmaking appeal to the luxury fashion brand consumer and watches are now an integral part of the luxury fashion brand repertoire.”

It also helps that the fashion brands have managed to design watches that appeal to men – and not just those besotted by fashion.

Men are notoriously snobbish about the build and engineering in their timepieces, so only with their approval could the women’s watches deign to inhabit the high end of the spectrum – luckily, a trend we’re seeing increasingly thanks to the highly technical pieces from Dior and Chanel (see sidebar). One person who knows his male fashion-watch market all too well is Dan Rookwood, style director of Men’s Health UK and editor of Synchronised, the magazine’s annual watch guide.

“It is increasingly important to men that they know what is going on under the bonnet as well as how pretty and shiny it is,” Rookwood says. “They are better-informed customers these days. Therefore, when Dolce & Gabbana launched its first proper men’s watches a year or so ago, it was like the brand was starting again from scratch. It was at pains to extol the Swiss-made mechanisms – and was right to do so.”

Men may be demanding more from their watches these days, but as Rookwood says, if it’s a luxury fashion label on the dial, what’s going on behind that dial must reflect that label’s brand cachet as well. A blue-chip fashion house going into watches has much more to lose than a start-up Swiss watch brand.

“Accessories are big business, the mark-up

“When D&G launched its f irst proper men’s watch, it was like the brand was starting from scratch”

- 62 -

059-066_Beyond the Catwalk.indd 62

27/02/2013 15:18

Fashion Forward Three famous fashion watches that caused the Swiss establishment to look over its shoulder

- 01 -

Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon

Last year was the 25th anniversary of Chanel’s very first watch, the aptly named Première, whose shape was inspired by the octagonal geometry of Place Vendôme (also echoed in the N°5 perfume bottle stopper).

Since then Chanel had produced tourbillons, thanks to La Joux-Perret fitting out a select few J12 pieces, but 2012’s Flying Tourbillon, made to mark the Première’s anniversary, was something else, allowing women the rare opportunity to enter the realm of high mechanical complications while still retaining a level of understated chic that Coco herself would be proud of. Audemars Piguet’s complications thinktank Renaud & Papi were the architects, encasing their tourbillon escapement in Chanel’s favourite flower, the camellia.

059-066_Beyond the Catwalk.indd 63

27/02/2013 15:19

- fas h i o n watc h es -

“It makes sense for fashion brands to offer watches and open up a lucrative new revenue strand ” is huge,” Rookwood says, “so it makes sense for brands to offer watches and open up a hugely lucrative new revenue stream. But only if they can be proven to be good quality. It’s their prized brand name on the line… If their accessories don’t match up in terms of craftsmanship and quality, it could devalue the rest of their offering.

“Dior and Chanel and LV have been quietly enjoying this little luxury island to themselves for a while. Dolce & Gabbana and Burberry have moved in. Others will surely follow.”

While fashion houses have tended to be more concerned with the external aesthetics and Swiss brands have prioritised the internal mechanics, the success of fashion houses means the Swiss brands are being forced to up their game when it comes to sexy aesthetics. Which will come as a huge relief to any woman who knows her watches.

“Ten years ago,” says Laura McCreddie, editor of B2B title Retail Jeweller, “if a woman wanted a serious but feminine watch, she’d have to buy into the traditional brands’ ladies’

- 02 -

Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Regate

The LVMH group’s halo brand could have easily knocked out some limited-edition Tambour watches to commemorate its eponymous sponsorship of this year’s America’s Cup warm-up cup competition, but the £39,000 Spin Time Regate caught everyone off guard: from one o’clock to five o’clock, the index markings are rotating time cubes, turning from blue to red as each minute of the regatta’s five-minute countdown passes.

- 64 -

059-066_Beyond the Catwalk.indd 64

27/02/2013 15:19

Turbine Xl, A1050/1 Technology of the Double Rotor.

Made by movement

www.perrelet.com

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

wAgner_240x300.indd 1

27/04/2012 10:33

- fas h i o n watc h es -

- 03 -

range, which just meant the usual models but with smaller proportions, some token diamonds and too much pink.

“Recently however, thanks to the fashion brands venturing into ‘proper’ watchmaking, women’s buying power in jewellery, fashion and therefore watches has rocketed, and the Swiss brands have clamoured to capitalise. Just look at TAG Heuer, which has done enormously well with its reinvented ladies’ range.”

This change has taken place across the industry. Thanks to the horological endeavours of fashion houses (and to a certain extent the jewellers, like Cartier, Boucheron and Chaumet) purist watch brands are waking up to the idea of pretty but not patronising design for women. Visit Baselworld this April and you’ll find Glashütte Original’s new Pavonina range; the other Glashütte brand, Nomos and its delicate pastel dials; even Zenith, which is launching pilot’s watches for women.

Just make sure you find a moment to go upstairs and pay your dues at Chanel’s new pavilion – where it all started, 13 years ago.

Dior VIII Grand Bal

A statement of intent if ever there was one, which proves to any remaining sceptics that Dior’s ladies’ watches may be feminine and stylish (as you’d expect) but they certainly don’t detract from respectable watchmaking. Their patented ‘Dior Inversé’ oscillating weight is brought dial-side, not only demonstrating that a proper automatic Swiss movement ticks beneath but also capitalising on the rotor’s hypnotic swing and turning it into a fashionable feature in itself: with models boasting motherof-pearl marquetry, diamonds in an embroidered or latticed pattern, feathers tipped with diamonds, and even a series of pièce uniques with mother-of-pearl, malachite or sugilite inlay.

- 66 -

059-066_Beyond the Catwalk.indd 66

27/02/2013 15:19

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk 000_Ad.indd 1

10/12/2012 10:28

With ambitious plans to expand his brand, jewellery designer Alexander Stempovsky explains the true value of his unique work

Stones immaculate

068-072_Stempovsky.indd 68

26/02/2013 17:46

- St em povs ky J ew ellery -

Words – Scott Manson

When it comes to the jewellery-buying habits of Russians, the former social situation under Soviet rule has a lot to answer for. Bright, brash pieces that scream ‘I have money’ are the default choice, with consumers driven more by the price of an object rather than its aesthetic appeal.

And there are few people better placed to comment on this than Alexander Stempovsky, the Russian founder of Stempovsky Jewellery.

His exclusive, unique designs combine some of the world’s best (and rarest) stones in simple, harmonious settings.

“Russians find it hard to overcome the complexes that come from the Soviet regime,” he says. “They can’t stop playing rich. In Russia people really don’t understand that an expensive thing and a thing sold to them at high price are not the same. That’s why the pieces I make are more targeted at western European consumers – those who are sophisticated in fine jewellery and who are aware of the real value of the stone as well as the whole product value. That said, it’s good to see that genuine connoisseurs are also appearing in Russia. The fact is that in recent years it has become possible in Russia to earn plenty of money using only your brain, instead of stealing from people, as was the case in the late 1990s.”

Part of the brand’s expansion plans involve them teaming up with key retailers who truly

understand the brand. One such store is Frost of London, based in the capital’s New Bond Street; Stempovsky says the outfit was his number one choice in the city.

“When we were choosing a retailer in London, there was not much discussion because Frost of London is the top multibrand retailer in the best location in London with excellent brands under one roof. It is also due to their personal touch – the management is easy going and down-to-earth, unlike many other people I’ve met in this industry.”

Stempovsky studied jewellery design in Geneva before returning to his native Russia because he could produce items more quickly, at a higher quality, and at a better price than he could in Switzerland.

“Three years in Geneva gave me the experience I needed, learning from the masters,” he says. “Now I have turned those teachings to creating jewellery that uses rare and often unique stones. I call it jewellery art.”

Every piece he makes is a one-off. The only common theme they share is the emotion they inspire in the wearer.

“Emotions also inspire me,” he says. “It can come in many forms. An affair with a beautiful woman, a journey to sea, a moving film, meeting fascinating people, great music, sunsets – my bright jewellery is shot through with positivity.”

Alexander Stempovsky - 69 -

068-072_Stempovsky.indd 69

26/02/2013 17:46

- St em povs ky J ew ellery -

Featuring 27ct morganites, pink sapphires and rubies, this stunning necklace showcases Stempovsky's artistry

- 70 -

068-072_Stempovsky.indd 70

26/02/2013 17:47

000_Ad.indd 1

25/02/2013 17:00

- St em povs ky J ew ellery -

A 27ct tourmaline set in a ring studded with diamonds, designed with Stempovsky's signature elegance

- 72 -

068-072_Stempovsky.indd 72

26/02/2013 17:47

Tourbillon Quantième PerpÊtuel The Calibre AM39.002, designed and made entirely in the Antoine Martin workshops, featuring a fl ying tourbillon and an integrated perpetual calendar mechanism with a power reserve of 6 days. Retrograde date display and regulator indication.

Anti-reflective sapphire crystals, water-resistant to 50m.

Case rose gold 18K 750, silver dial, brown alligator strap.

Contact: Antoine Martin SA, Industriestrasse 23, 6055 Alpnach, Switzerland contact@antoinemartin.ch www.antoinemartin.ch

000_Ad.indd 1

26/02/2013 13:55

000_Ad.indd 1

30/11/2012 11:48

- fr ag r a n c e -

Words – Vicci Bentley

s tat e m e n t

scents

Men are now embracing fragrance with a vengeance, opting for bold, distinctive scents in favour of traditionally discreet colognes

- 75 -

075-080_Fragrences.indd 75

26/02/2013 17:42

- fr ag r a n c e -

he revolution has been subtle, but inexorable. Perfumistas are experiencing stiff competition both at counters and on bathroom shelves. Bottles labelled ‘for him’ are shouldering hers from the front line; while at gatherings, the ice-breaking ‘what are you wearing?’ gambit is as likely to be directed to a stylish-looking chap as his winsome lady friend.

Men are embracing fragrance with enthusiasm. Surveys by consumer researcher Mintel show that in the past four years, the global number of masculine scents launched

“Mintel show that in the past four years, the global number of masculine scents launched rose by a massive 167%”

rose by 167%. According to Mintel fragrance analyst Emmanuelle Moeglin, this ascent in sales is consistent with a general upward curve in male grooming; last year, sales of male toiletries increased by 23% compared to 2011.

“As men grow more comfortable entering what was once considered a traditionally female preserve, their fragrances are becoming less fresh and sporty, more sensual, sophisticated and refined,” Moeglin comments.

“We no longer just splash it on our faces,” lifestyle boutique Roullier White’s fragrance expert Michael Donovan confirms. At Harrods, perfumer Roja Dove reports the more intense version of his Fetish pour Homme outsells the regular eau de parfum strength. We’ve come a long way from aftershave. So what’s afoot?

Time was when ‘splashing it all over’ was considered as naff as a footballer’s mullet. While

- 76 -

075-080_Fragrences.indd 76

26/02/2013 17:42

at the high end, discreet colognes dispensed by barbers such as Trumper’s leavened the fug in the gentlemen’s clubs, it seemed there was no safe middle ground. Yet Roja Dove believes that as role models go, the David Beckham effect has overridden both class and gender to make ‘metrosensual’ grooming essential. Niche fragrance collections such as Tom Ford Private Blend have also played a key role in relegating scent’s crowd-pleasing stereotypes – showerfresh balsamics for men, sweet fruity florals for women – in favour of edgy, distinctive unisex smells. Most recently, unprecedented doses of

rose absolute in scents such as Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Mood Ouds (crafted for the Middle Eastern market and now pouring into the UK) have inspired a new trend for masculine florals.

This new emancipated climate means that men are no longer content to trust the choice of partners – they’re following their own noses.

At Roullier White, Michael Donovan reports that 50% of bookings for the shop’s fragrancefinding service are men; while Roja Dove claims a 40% male bespoke clientele at his Haute Parfumerie in Harrods.

“Twenty years ago, chaps buying fragrance was seen as shamefully indulgent,” remembers Dominic De Vetta, the mastermind behind London’s latest fragrance boutique, Shay & Blue. “Now, in the same way that they appreciate wines and well-cut shirts, men are becoming fragrance connoisseurs.”

075-080_Fragrences.indd 77

“Now, in the same way that they appreciate wines and well-cut shirts, men are becoming fragrance connoisseurs”

26/02/2013 17:42

- fr ag r a n c e -

All of which makes them loyal customers.

“Men aren’t ashamed to ask about provenance of a scent, how it’s made and where ingredients come from,” Michael Donovan observes. “Once they’re happy with what they’ve found, they’ll stick with it like the perfect pair of shoes.”

Currently rediscovering its elite following is cult scent Eight & Bob, a youthful John F Kennedy’s favourite cologne, made to a closelyguarded 1937 recipe by aristocratic perfumer, Albert Fouquet. The cut-out novel packaging is a tribute to wartime skulduggery, when bottles were smuggled to JFK, Cary Grant and James Stewart to avoid Nazi confiscation.

On Fouquet’s death, the spicy vanilla-based recipe and its ‘secret’ ingredient – a rare Chilean tumbleweed grass – was lost, only to be recovered decades later by his butler’s family. It’s a hell of a story – pure marketing gold. But as Donovan reminds us, before Victorian dourness censured all things sensual, gentlemen were lavish with exotic perfumes whose ingredients were a measure of wealth.

Now status scents are enjoying a resurgence, numbered flacons, such as Lalique’s Bentley insignia bottle created for the car company’s fragrance collection, are also must-have paperweights on executive desks. A drop

of the good stuff doesn’t go amiss, either.

Boozy elements, such as the whisky accord in perfumer Angela Flanders’ Aqua Alba, conjure the leather and sweet tobacco nostalgia of those quintessential gents’ clubs.

“In a society where it’s still difficult for men to express their individuality, they do so through well-chosen accessories such as a tie or a watch. Scent allows a man to flex his personality in a subtle yet uniquely distinctive way,” Dove asserts, and De Vetta agrees: “A gentleman’s cologne is a thumbprint that identifies him as having style and great taste.”

The sweet smell of success sorted, then.

- A M A N'S B EST S C EN TS -

C r eed Av en t u s

Ei g h t & B o b

A n g ela Fla n d ers, Aqua A lba

The second overall best-seller when it launched in Harrods two years ago. Fruity, but subtly so: blackcurrant and pineapple are spiked with juniper and birch. Jasmine gives it an addictive high, while the mossy, musky base has a drowsy tinge of vanilla.

Citrus, spice and vanilla notes with the aromatic woodiness of ‘Andrea’, a rare Chilean plant harvested from mountain sides between December and January.

Only 7% of the crop is deemed suitable for extraction. No fear of over-production, then.

Earthy labdanum, smoky patchouli, heather, honey and sweet black agarwood conjure a wee dram’s peaty afterglow, but without the fuggy-headed effect.

£152 - 75ml

www.creedfragrances.co.uk

£125 - 100ml

£95 - 100ml

angelaflanders-perfumer.com

www.averyfineperfumeries.com

- 78 -

075-080_Fragrences.indd 78

26/02/2013 17:43

000_Ad.indd 1

30/01/2013 17:46

- fr ag r a n c e -

O r m o n d e Jay n e, M o n ta bac o

S h ay & B lu e, S i c i li a n Li m es

To r r e o f T u s ca n y, B er ka n a

Notes of leather, sandalwood and tobacco leaf make this an exceptionally suave evocation of Latin American brio. Orange absolute and hedione lend an airy radiance to the traditional masculine notes.

Inspired by classic colognes, the scent’s salty citrus margarita kick is softened by a mossy, cedarwood dry-down. A tangy one for when the heat’s on.

Named after the Norse rune for birch – a symbol of natural potency – this stunning green chypre blends smoky birch tar with sweet, smooth buffalo grass on a woody, leathery base. A modern gentleman’s club scent.

£55 - 100ml

£260 - 100ml

shayandblue.com

Roja Pa r fu m s Fet i s h po u r h o m m e

La li qu e fo r B en t ley C rysta l Ed i t i o n

M a i s o n Fr a n c i s Ku r k dj i a n O u d V elv et M o o d

No-one does chypres like Roja Dove. Warm and leathery, this one’s jasmine heart sweetens smoky patchouli and animalic castoreum in the base.

In its limited edition crystal ‘Flying B’ mascot, this top-of-the-range juice is so smooth, it virtually purrs. Powdery iris and white cedarwood and patchouli are intensified by woody papyrus.

Crafted to give the sensation of density and fluidity, this is a balmy yet intriguingly fresh interpretation of Oud’s feral side. Saffron and cinnamon give a plush, spicy finish with a honeyed touch.

(Harrods Black Hall and Jack Barclay, Bentley)

www.franciskurkdjian.com

ormondejayne.com

£295 - 50ml

(Harrods Black Hall)

£3,000 - 40ml

£90 - 100ml

roullierwhite.com

£275 - 70ml

- 80 -

075-080_Fragrences.indd 80

26/02/2013 17:43

A REFLECTION OF YOUR STYLE INTRODUCING THE STERLING COLLECTION Luxury Leather Goods and Accessories Hand Crafted in the United Kingdom

000_Ad.indd 1 Tempus Dec12 240x300.indd 1 Ettinger Sterling

Tel: +44 (0)20 8877 1616

20/11/2012 11:23 19/11/12 4:26 PM

Access all areas

082-086_Private Jet.indd 82

26/02/2013 17:35

- p r i vat e t r av el -

Words – Scott Manson

Non-stop journeys to fascinating, but lesser known, destinations? Take the route less travelled by flying privately

Flying privately is the fastest, safest and most efficient method of air travel. This is, in part, due to the fact that private jets can fly direct to smaller airports that are either not served by commercial operations – indeed it’s estimated that 90% of the world’s airports are only available to private aviation – or require two or more legs in a journey.

With that in mind, we’ve compiled a list of six of our favourite awkward-to-reach destinations, unless you’re sitting in a business jet, of course.

Bolzano, Italy

Located in the South Tyrol province of northern Italy, Bolzano was ranked number one in a 2010 quality-of-life survey conducted by an Italian newspaper. This honour is, in part, down to the inaccessible – and thus beautifully preserved – nature of the place.

With a landscape boasting high peaks and vast forests and with most commercial flights only taking travellers as far as Verona – a two hour drive away – Bolzano remains something of an undiscovered gem.

The fact that it borders Austria, and that you’re more likely to hear locals speaking German than Italian, only adds to its otherworldly appeal. Many travellers visit nearby Merano, famed for its spa resorts. Indeed last year CN Traveller magazine voted the Espace Henri Chinot one of its top 20 spas in the world.

In Bolzano itself, visitors can enjoy the beautiful medieval centre and the highly

regarded Museion, a contemporary art museum housed in a striking cubic glass building on the banks of the River Talvera.

italia.it

Airport : Bolzano

Sylt, Germany

Given that the island of Sylt sees its western coastline battered by the fierce surf of the North Sea, and it sits on the same latitude as the English city of Newcastle, the Siberian city of Omsk, and the southernmost tip of Alaska, it’s surprising that it has become known as a playground for the rich and famous. Dubbed ‘Germany’s Hamptons’ (or South Beach or St

Tropez), its collection of fine dining restaurants, boutique stores and quaint villages makes for a beautiful, and conveniently discreet, place to spend a few days. Those looking to shop head to the pretty village of Kampfen, where brands such as Bulgari and Hermes have stores, while more energetic types should check out the surfing paradise that is Sunset Beach. The link to the mainland is provided by a train that runs along a causeway or airlines that only operate seasonal services – unless, of course, you are flying privately. Sylt could be Germany’s best-kept secret.

germany.travel Airport : Sylt

- 83 -

082-086_Private Jet.indd 83

26/02/2013 17:36

Pantelleria, Italy

Giorgio Armani is a summer resident, and Aldous Huxley, Madonna, Martin Scorsese, Sting and Truman Capote have all visited this small island. Sitting further south in the Mediterranean than the north coast of Tunisia, above a drowned continental rift in the Strait of Sicily and with a landscape shaped by a 600,000 year-old volcanic eruption, it’s a truly beguiling place.

Unless flying privately, getting there out of high season can be difficult. There are a few direct commercial flights, or a five-hour ferry from Sicily that leaves at midnight. Those who do make the trip, though, are rewarded by an island carpeted in fragrant myrtle, wild fennel, oak and pine woods. Its volcanic nature also makes for dozens of ‘natural Jacuzzis’ (lakes and pools that are heated by hot spring water and are said to have healing properties).

There are no beaches as such, but those in the know rent boats from the handsome town of Scauri and sail to the grottos of Nika or Benikula to enjoy bubbling hot water against a backdrop of towering cliffs. A chic destination that’s not yet been colonised by the package holiday tourist hordes.

trapani-sicilia.it

Airport: Pantalleria

082-086_Private Jet.indd 84

26/02/2013 17:36

- p r i vat e t r av el -

Montana, USA

Those seeking action and adventure, or just a great game of golf, should head out to the big sky country of Montana. While winter is a great time to experience the various snowbased pursuits available, the warmer weather welcomes hikers, cyclists and millions of visitors to Yellowstone National Park.

Missoula Airport provides the perfect jumping-off point to take in the golfing opportunities at the 18-hole Rock Creek golf course in Deer Lodge. Designed by Tom Doak, it offers open-loop routing that ascends more than 250ft from the clubhouse, set among a backdrop of rugged mountains and babbling streams.

The area is also home to The Ranch at Rock Creek, a luxury working ranch set in 6,000 acres that’s become a hip retreat with Hollywood types (Vince Vaughn spent a week there with his family last Christmas) and thrill-seekers alike. Hunting, shooting, fishing and, of course, ranching are all present and correct, and for the less energetically inclined, the lodge offers a fine bar, complete with all manner of bar games, plus a four-lane bowling alley. A truly unique taste of the ‘wild west’.

stunning white sand beaches of Palombaggia and Santa Giulia with its shallow lagoon-like waters are also a big draw for families and watersports enthusiasts alike. A word to the wise, though. Avoid high season, when French

and Italian visitors swamp the islands, and enjoy a more relaxed, less populous stay in May or September.

theranchatrockcreek.com visitmt.com

Airport : Missoula International

Corsica

Corsica’s delights may be well documented, but the beautiful, less frequently visited southern coast is more immediately accessible if you fly privately. It still has an untamed feel about it, with wild boar and tortoises roaming the island, and the food is a fabulous mix of mountain, sea and land, comprising rustic offerings such as dried hams, local ewe’s cheese, grilled tuna and prawns, and Pietra, the island’s beer, flavoured with chestnut flour. Even the local wine has a charm about it (despite the disdain many French critics pour on it). For proof of this, look no further than the white Enclos des Anges, produced by Englishman Richard Spurr at a renowned vineyard just outside Calvi.

Elsewhere, visitors to southern Corsica are rewarded with beautiful views from the fortified old port town of Bonifacio. Its nearby sheer limestone cliffs will be recognisable to film fans as the setting of scenes from the classic 1961 war movie The Guns of Navarone. The

visit-corsica.com

Airport : Sud-Corse

- 85 -

082-086_Private Jet.indd 85

26/02/2013 17:36

- p r i vat e t r av el -

Easter Island, Chile

Officially the world’s most remote airport, Easter Island’s Mataveri International Airport is 3,759 kilometres (2,336 miles) from Santiago, from where all island-bound commercial flights originate. It serves a 70-square mile island of just 4,000 residents that, until recently, was relatively tourist-free.

You'd still struggle to call the island busy. But the opening of the luxury Explora Lodge in 2007 proved a new attraction to visitors, its stylish sea-view rooms and interiors carved from volcanic rock now popular with a new wave of guests.

And here’s who can take you there

The real draw, however, are the massive rock sculptures called Moai that dot the island’s beaches. Carved around 1500, the sculptures are cited as the reason behind the island’s deforested interior: its inhabitants cut down the trees to build massive wooden sleds to transport the stone. The significance of these statues continues to be a matter of debate, only adding to the alien feel of an island that remains on the must-do list of every intrepid traveller.

explora.com visitchile.com

Airport: Mataveri International

Albinati Aeronautics

Chapman Freeborn

Founded in 2001, Albinati Aeronautics is a major player in private aviation. Its loyal customer base is testament to the company’s discretion and efficiency.

USP? The company offers a ‘total transparency’ policy, which means passengers can check, say, a particular pilot’s training background and flying hours.

Plus points: Its fleet includes the Global XRS, a jet that flies faster and further than any other aircraft in its class.

Established in 1973, Chapman Freeborn celebrates its 40th anniversary this year.

USP? Being privately owned and "incredibly financially stable" allows them to offer credit.

Plus points: The company’s recent link up with Drukair means that the remote Kingdom of Bhutan will now be widely accessible to private jet travellers. For more information visit chapman-freeborn.com.

Victor

Rizon Jet

A private jet-share community born when BMI cut its route to Mallorca and business class passenger (and now Victor CEO) Clive Jackson realised that EasyJet would’ve been the only way to reach his holiday home.

USP? Victor users can sell surplus seats on their outbound or returning flights to other Victor members, allowing them to buy individual seats for a fraction of the cost.

Plus points: There's no joining or membership fee.

A Middle East- and UK-based private aviation group.

USP? Their new VIP lounge at Biggin Hill surpasses any other in the UK. Plus points: They also offer jet management and maintenance services.

- 86 -

082-086_Private Jet.indd 86

27/02/2013 15:10

It’s not about having time.

It’s about making time.

We can offer you the ultimate luxury of more time to spend any way you choose. Travel at times that suit you, to and from the most convenient airports, in control of every element of your journey.

Chapman Freeborn has been providing attentive yet discreet private air charter solutions for four decades. Our multilingual charter experts are available 24/7/365 worldwide, offering the full range of aircraft that can be carefully matched to your requirements.

You can expect more from the world’s leading aircraft charter broker.

For advice or a quote for your next trip, call us on +44 (0)1293 572888, email us at tempus@chapman-freeborn.com or visit us at www.chapman-freeborn.com

Find out more

7517 Chapman1 Freeborn Tempus.indd 1 000_Ad.indd

21/02/2013 17:19 09:25 25/02/2013

WOODRAPH

Lyon, FRANCE

M a l le h o rl o g è re " As t or ia Du e t t o "

www.woodraph.fr contact@woodraph.fr - Tél. +33 (0)9 61 68 36 18

motorisé par

000_Ad.indd 1

25/02/2013 17:36

- d i a l a rt -

l

T

e h

o f t t h r ed a i

a

Words – Hannah Silver

Watchmakers are rediscovering the 16thcentury craft of painting dials. It marks an exciting blend of age-old artistry and modern technology - 89 -

089-096_Dial Art.indd 89

27/02/2013 15:42

- D i a l A rt -

Luxury watchmakers’ renewed interest in decorative art is showcased in striking new dials from such brands as Bulgari, left, and Van Cleef & Arpels, right

089-096_Dial Art.indd 90

27/02/2013 15:42

uxury watches weren’t always complication-packed technological masterpieces.There was a time when the pinnacle of a watch brand’s craftsmanship lay not in the interior workings, but on the art that covered the dial itself. And while it’s rare for a craft that peaked in the 17th and 18th centuries to return today, watch aficionados have recently rediscovered their love for beautifully painted dials.

The skilled profession rose to prominence in the early 16th century when enamelpainted pocket watch dials were fashioned by artists schooled in the art of mixing enamel with diamond or pearl settings. Enamel – transparent glass coloured with metal oxides – was a natural choice for watch dials thanks to its long association with jewellery. It was a tricky business, though. Not only did enamellers have the incredibly precise work on the dial to deal with, but they also had to deal with a furnace that reached temperatures of up to 1200°C. Trickier still, if they then allowed the enamel to heat or cool too quickly, cracks would appear.

“Luxury watch brands have discovered there is a market for pieces that are both technologically and artistically impressive” To achieve truly striking colours, different metal oxides were added. These were then applied to the metal base with a quill, a process repeated as many times as was necessary to achieve the desired colour.

As the enamellers developed new skills, incredibly complex dial patterns began to emerge in the first half of the 17th century – a time when miniature painting was also very popular. These new techniques included using finely-ground enamel mixed with essential oils, which was then repeatedly heated.

Sadly, as pocket watches were replaced by wristwatches, the art started to decline and skilled enamellers became hard to find. It is only fairly recently that we have started to see these embellished dials again, as luxury watch brands have realised there is a market for pieces that are both technologically and artistically impressive. Thankfully, there are a few skilled artisans left. One of these, Anita Porchet, works out of a converted farmhouse in the village of Corcelles-le-Jorat, near Lausanne in Switzerland, creating intricate enamel dials

- 91 -

089-096_Dial Art.indd 91

27/02/2013 15:48

The painted-onenamel patterns on Jaquet Droz’s Petite Heure Minute range, right, resurrect a centuries-old technique

for brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Parmigiani. Other watch brands, including Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre, have their own in-house enamelling teams.

Porchet has also created dials for Vacheron Constantin who, along with Cartier, were two of the first prestige watch brands to embrace dial art again. The former helped renew interest in painted dials in 1994 with the Mercator watch, released on the 400th anniversary of the death of cartographer Gerardus Mercator and featuring a beautifully detailed map on the dial. Vacheron’s latest Métiers d’Art collection, Florilège, combines guillochage – hollow lines intersected with jewels or decoration – with cloisonné enamelling, where the outlines of the motifs are marked using a fine gold wire to separate the colour, to create beautiful and complex dials.

Artistic director of Vacheron Constantin, Christian Selmoni, says it is all down to the artists: “This collection was entirely conceived, built and completed by the artists and artisans, without the interference of the usual partners, such as the project managers and engineers.

Our artisans are given creative freedom to really take on a project from start to finish and they deserve immense respect.”

Elsewhere, companies such as Harry Winston have experimented with dials featuring delicate feather art, while Hermès honoured the ancient art of straw marquetry

089-096_Dial Art.indd 92

with its Arceau Marqueterie de Paille.

Some brands have taken the concept further than others. Van Cleef & Arpels use miniature painting, mother-of-pearl marquetry and engraving to create incredible works of art such as the Poetic Wish series. Drawing on Parisian landmarks as inspiration for its exquisite pieces, it depicts romantic scenes – a man stepping on the top of Notre Dame Cathedral at dusk while the bells chime, the Eiffel Tower against a background of the Seine caught in the shadow of mother-of-pearl clouds – to brilliant effect.

Nicolas Bos, president and CEO, said of the delicately crafted dials: “We asked the best inventors to dream up something which would represent the three main themes – nature, couture and imagination. These are all motifs that express life and movement, and the result is the specific Van Cleef & Arpels aesthetic of asymmetry.”

Chanel, relatively new to the game, has taken interiors as its inspiration, creating ten enamel dials inspired by the Coromandel screens in Coco Chanel’s apartment. Then there is Ulysse Nardin, which depicted Peter the Great’s ship, the Shtandart, in more than 50 centimetres of fine gold wire.

This skill, this effort and – yes – this daring, heralds an exciting era in watchmaking, one where art and technology meet, creating something that is much more than just a pretty face.

27/02/2013 15:48

- D i a l A rt -

- 93 -

089-096_Dial Art.indd 93

27/02/2013 15:49

- D i a l A rt -

On dial

Hermes The Hermès Arceau Paille watch is an incredibly impressive piece thanks to the brand’s use of straw marquetry to create the dial in the form of an iconic Hermès tie pattern. It’s made using rye straw – produced by only one farm in France – that has been dried, split open, manually flattened and then glued onto graph paper which is then assembled on the dial.

hermes.com - 94 -

089-096_Dial Art.indd 94

27/02/2013 15:49

Your private world

000_Ad.indd 1

28/02/2013 16:10

- D i a l A rt -

Cartier Cartier has just launched its latest Rotonde de Cartier which uses 5,000 year-old techniques to create the brand’s panther motif in gold granulation. The technique of fusing gold beads together to create patterns can be traced back to ancient Egypt, but it was the Etruscans who perfected the style. Now Cartier takes it to the next level.

cartier.com

Jaquet Droz The Petite Heure Minute Relief uses an enamelling technique that’s hundreds of years old, adding gleams of gold deposited in micro-particles to highlight the patina of blue and bring out a carefully-crafted depiction of a flock of birds.

jaquet-droz.com - 96 -

089-096_Dial Art.indd 96

27/02/2013 15:49

000_Ad.indd 1

26/02/2013 17:20

- g o lf d est i n at i o n s -

Words – Hannah Silver

P l ay i n g Away

From old-school cool to majestic mountain settings, there are hundreds of locations we’d happily highlight as must-play golf courses.

Space dictates, though, there has to be some sort of filter so we’ve selected courses that are in or relatively near the UK and which, of course, are some of the finest and most venerated among golfing aficionados. Read on to find out who made the cut…

098-102_Golf Holidays_1.indd 98

27/02/2013 15:31

Old Head Ireland The Old Head of Kinsale has developed into one of the most sought-after golf experiences in the world. Situated in County Cork on the southwest coast of Ireland, the course presents plenty of stunning views across the Atlantic; its golfing journey takes you two miles out into the Atlantic Ocean and 300 feet high over dramatic cliffs. With 15 luxurious Members’ Suites, a spa and the superb de Courcey Restaurant, Old Head lays claim to being the ultimate in golf and relaxation.

oldhead.com

- 99 -

098-102_Golf Holidays_1.indd 99

27/02/2013 15:31

Les Bordes France Let’s face it, the Loire Valley has got a lot going for it: châteaux, great wine (Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Muscadet), superb food. It is also home to one of Europe's most exclusive and demanding golf courses. Make no mistake: this is a tough, tough golf course. It may be situated in tranquil ancient oak forests, but Les Bordes is a monster of a layout, stretching over 7,000 yards from the tips. From the moment you get on the first tee and are faced with a brutal island green you get the distinct feeling that you are being toyed with by Texan architect Robert von Hagge. There are huge bunkers and intimidating, seemingly random mounds all over this vast piece of land. Some of the fairways have been elevated five or six feet above the surrounding landscape. You’re up and down all over the place but it is a stunning course and a real must-play. After the drama of the course, the clubhouse is reassuringly understated with wood-burning fires and a relaxing ambience. On

098-102_Golf Holidays_1.indd 100

the 1600-acre estate there is a baron’s hunting lodge, a 14th-century priory and, in late 2014, a boutique hotel will open in the Chateau Bel Air. The original Les Bordes club is reserved for its members and their guests, but in 2016 a new Les Bordes resort course will open alongside von Hagge's masterpiece to rival it for its present position as one of Europe's greatest golf courses.

lesbordes.com

27/02/2013 15:31

- g o lf d est i n at i o n s -

Terre Blanche France Just awarded European Golf Resort of 2013, Terre Blanche Golf in Provence has two 18-hole golf courses, both of which blend effortlessly into the surrounding valleys, cascades and ravines, making for technically challenging play. The Château course in particular has been frequently voted a particular favourite because of its spectacular water features and rapid greens.

terre-blanche.com

St Andrews Scotland Quite simply the world’s ultimate golf experience. You step on to the first tee and you thrill to the fact that this is exactly where Jack Nicklaus (insert your own name here: Palmer, Player, Jones, Seve, Hagen, Tom Morris etc) stood, facing exactly the same challenge that you do. And you do the same thing throughout the round. And when you make a par on the 12th, you make sure that everyone knows that you just beat Tiger Woods’ score on the same hole. With all its history and grand moments, it is sometimes forgotten what a brilliant golf course this is. The nuances, the undulations, the sheer snaking twists of the landscape on this links course are mesmerising. Golf has been played on this amazing piece of land since 1400AD. Make sure you play it as soon as humanly possible.

Mazagan Beach Resort Morocco The Mazagan Golf Club runs along the beach, following the contours of the dunes. It's a par72, 18-hole course designed to make the most of its surrounding natural environment, and offers spectacular sea views. It nicely combines more challenging 'heroic shots' with broadened fairways for the less advanced.

mazaganbeachresort.com

standrews.org.uk

- 101 -

098-102_Golf Holidays_1.indd 101

27/02/2013 15:31

- g o lf d est i n at i o n s -

Skibo Castle Scotland Home to the exclusive members-only club and hotel, comprising a beautifully restored 60,000-square foot castle and a tough 18-hole golf course. The latter’s tricky holes include the deep threatening bunker of the par-three 6th and the 18th, a sweeping par five which snakes around salt marshes. Especially-gifted big hitters could reach it in two, making for a potentially dramatic ending. Tee times are available for non-members, while members staying in the castle will have the the run of this magnificent building that has traditional touches such as a piper leading them into dinner.

carnegieclub.co.uk

Heritage Awali Mauritius The Heritage Golf Club covers 100 hectares.

The championship course is situated between the mountains and the sea and is interspersed with tropical trees and streams. It's a challenging course, and varied enough to keep every level of golfer happy

heritageawali.mu

And here are three more gems La Manga Spain

Evian Resort France

A beautiful hotel, picturesque surroundings and year-round good weather means La Manga would be a tempting destination even without the three superb 18-hole championship courses.

Each course has its own style and terrain and excellent practice facilities, while the prize-winning resort is internationally recognised as a great spot for non-golfers too.

The Evian Resort Golf Club is one of the oldest in Europe, and will be worth keeping an eye out for this summer when it opens its completely renovated new course.

The new Championship course will be a par 71 or par 72, and will keep even the most advanced players happy.

lamangaclub.com

evianresort.com

Sporting Club Berlin Germany This immaculate resort boats three outstanding 18-hole courses designed by Arnold Palmer and Nick Faldo, and a cute little nine-hole course.

Situated close to Berlin, the resort is set in beautiful forests, has an award-winning spa and even its own beach at Lake Scharmutzel.

The Arnold Palmer course is typical American parkland with wide fairways and large greens. Without doubt the standout course, however, is the Faldo course, which is inspired by British links

and features narrow fairways, high rough and 133 bunkers.

Maybe he was in a bad mood when he designed it, because it is as difficult as it is beautiful. The 300-acre resort also offers a variety of other sporting activities including an equestrian centre, sailing and tennis.

sporting-club-berlin.de

- 102 -

098-102_Golf Holidays_1.indd 102

27/02/2013 15:31

One-of-a-Kind

Inspired by nature

An exceptional destination in Provence 35 minutes away from Cannes, 45 minutes from Nice Côte d’Azur international airport

TERRE BLANCHE HOTEL SPA GOLF RESORT***** ,*%4 $-6# t 3&45"63"/54 t 580 )0-& (0-' $0634&4 t "-#"5304 (0-' 1&3'03."/$& $&/5&3 t 3&"- &45"5& 3PVUF EF #BHOPMT FO 'PSĂ?U t 5PVSSFUUFT t 7BS t 'SBODF )PUFM SFTFSWBUJPO

SFTFSWBUJPOT IPUFM!UFSSFCMBODIFIPUFMTQB DPN (PMG DPOUBDU

QSPTIPQ!UFSSFCMBODIFHPMG DPN XXX UFSSF CMBODIF DPN

TEmpus-terre-blanche.indd 1 000_Ad.indd 1

15/02/2013 16:53:34 25/02/2013 17:38

SCORPION SPORTS CARS ■

FULLY STREET LEGAL SCORPION 3 WHEEL SPORTS CARS NOW TAKING ORDERS! • • • • •

Only need car license to drive 75MPH top speed 4 stroke 250cc water cooled engine 4 speed manual + reverse 14” wheels

£6,000 • • • •

7 colour choices plus custom paint service available Cars come with 6 months road tax Finance availble Insurance through Adrian S Flux

WWW.SCORPIONSPORTSCARS.COM | 07588 510197 |

000_Ad.indd 1

Scorpion.indd 1

MICHAEL576@BTINTERNET.COM

26/02/2013 10:37

24/01/2013 18:34

- b oys toys -

Words – Hannah Silver

Grand designs It doesn't have to be all work and no play with our survey of the latest products in cutting-edge fun - 105 -

105-110_Boys Toys.indd 105

27/02/2013 14:35

- b oys toys -

Po le positi o n

Formula 1 race car simulator Th e sha pe o f th i n gs to co m e

3D printer

The next time you've forgotten to buy birthday gifts, whether it's toys, art, homeware or more, there will be no more need for those rushed visits to the shop – just print it out. The concept has been bandied about for a few years, but now it's looking like 2013 will finally be the year of the 3D printer. Using plaster powder, acrylic, polyester or styrene (depending on your model), this printer from tech specialist Cubify – the first genuinely aimed at the home market – will produce any design you require in any colour.

While few of us will ever get behind the wheel of a Formula 1 car, this F1 simulator is the next best thing. It's a Grand Prix car constructed from carbon fibre with all the details intact, including Pirelli racing tyres, BBS wheels and Brembo racing callipers. The 23-inch screens, surround-sound speaker system and a quick-release F1 steering wheel will all make you feel like you're enjoying a white-knuckle ride on the track.

fmcginternational.com

Aweso m e au d i o

cubify.com

Puccini sound system

The Bugatti Veyron car is a beautiful feat of engineering, so it’s unsurprising that its sound system is similarly sleekly designed. Dynaudio's Puccini sound system, which can be fitted to most cars, boasts a high-performance digital amplifier and four loudspeaker drive units making for crystal-clear sound, whether your roof's up or down. In the Veyron, Dynaudio has limited the number of speakers and instead focused on details such as ultra-light aluminium voice coils that, combined with powerful magnets, give a tightly precise sound and a stomach-flippingly deep bass.

dynaudio.com

- 106 -

105-110_Boys Toys.indd 106

27/02/2013 14:35

D epths cha rg er

Underwater scooter

The perfect toy for your yacht, the world's most powerful commercial underwater scooter has 10 speeds and zips along at up to 15mph. A nice tech-geek touch is the onboard computer that controls speed, gears and measures depth.

quintessentiallygifts.com

105-110_Boys Toys.indd 107

27/02/2013 14:35

Cha n n el yo u r i n n er B o n d

Jetlev

Surely the ultimate form of transport, the jetpack is like a James Bond film come to life.

This one uses water for thrust, pumping 1000 gallons a minute to the jetpack, which then directs the liquid through nozzles to create the ascent. The pack itself has positive buoyancy and is powered by a magnetic key and kill switch, with a motorcycle-style throttle to really crank up the power.

jetlev.com

G ra n d to u r er

Spyder ST

The new Spyder ST is a three-wheeled motorcycle designed specifically for sport touring. It's ideal for longer rides thanks to more relaxed ergonomics in the driving position and minimised roll when cornering, while

105-110_Boys Toys.indd 108

the addition of a new console and adjustable windshield gives increased wind protection.

Metallic silver front rims and a host of cool colour options make this one of the betterlooking, and just plain fun, bikes on the road.

158performance.co.uk

27/02/2013 14:35

- b oys toys -

- 109 -

105-110_Boys Toys.indd 109

27/02/2013 14:36

- b oys toys -

Th e power o f th r ee

Scorpion sports car

The Scorpion is a three-wheeler sports car with a difference. A 250cc engine, four-stroke watercooled motor and 14-inch alloy wheels give it a distinctive futuristic look that can be made even more distinctive if you opt for a bespoke paint job. Totally street-legal, it boasts a top speed of 75mph. For what is essentially a trike, that is a serious number.

scorpionsportscars.com

Spy vs spy

Counter Surveillance

London’s Spymaster store is a treasure trove for techno fiends or, indeed, for paranoid types, offering everything from bullet-proof leather jackets to mini submarines. It is, however, best known for its counter surveillance equipment, including a waterproof watch, complete with HD camera for all your covert-recording needs.

spymaster.co.uk

- 110 -

105-110_Boys Toys.indd 110

27/02/2013 14:36

Steinway Lyngdorf S-series on permanent demonstration at KJ West One

Stunning true to life sound from a surprisingly compact size

KJ WEST ONE | 26 New Cavendish Street | London | UK | W1G 8TY T: 0 2 0 7 4 8 6 8 2 6 2 | i n f o @ k j w e s t o n e . c o . u k | w w w . k j w e s t o n e . c o . u k

000_Ad.indd 1

28/02/2013 11:15

- M oto r i n g -

Words – Kyle Fortune

B eli ev e t h e h y p e

113-114_Motoring.indd 113

28/02/2013 10:23

- M oto r i n g -

The Pagani Huayra combines breathtaking design with masterly engineering – it’s a car that demands respect.

Price £800,000 Performance 0-62mph (0-100km/h) 3.3 seconds Top speed 224mph (360km) Engine 6.0-litre twin-turbo V12 petrol Transmission seven-speed paddle-shifted

automated manual, rear-wheel drive

Construction Carbo-titanium tub with carbonfibre bodywork

It is difficult to imagine another car firm coming along and making the impact that Pagani did with its Zonda. Turning car-making into fine art, company founder Horacio Pagani is the grand master of carbon-fibre construction, and in the Zonda he produced his dream machine, winning the adoration of those with pockets deep enough to buy one. But the Zonda has gone now, its lengthy bowing out making way for the Huayra – pronounced ‘why-ra’.

Emissions regulations ruled out the Zonda’s naturally aspirated engine for the new car. So the Huayra’s AMG-provided 6.0-litre V12 is now twin-turbo-charged, allowing it not just to produce the prodigious power Pagani wanted, but also to keep the bureaucrats happy. The result is 720hp at 5,800rpm, enough to allow the Huayra to hit 62mph in just 3.3 seconds and onto a 224mph maximum. Quick enough, in the world of super-exclusive, telephonenumber priced hypercars, then.

The Huayra also plays in a marketplace where the £1m-plus car

is no longer extraordinary, making its circa £800,000-pre-tax price seem conspicuously good value. Especially considering the exquisite level of detail lavished on it: the Huayra is a demonstration of Pagani’s exacting craft. It features a carbo-titanium tub, mixing carbon fibres with titanium for even greater strength, but with exceptional lightness.

The level of detail in the Huayra goes beyond extraordinary and into the realms of fetishistic. Open the doors, bonnet or rear clamshell and the carbon-fibre weave is matching, symmetrical and perfect. Added to this is an interior mixing handcrafted leather and individually milled aluminium components. In the world of hypercars the Huayra is a triumphant embodiment of a bespoke and cuttingedge approach to car manufacturing; Pagani’s obsession with craftsmanship is evident on every millimetre of the Huayra. Different to the Zonda, yet no less beguiling or desirable, this is a car built with love.

- 114 -

113-114_Motoring.indd 114

27/02/2013 14:27

NE077A Nene Tempus Ad v1:Layout 1

5/10/12

11:39

Page 1

Tradition, tailored for your lifestyle.

Since 1988, Nene Overland have been crafting outstanding, powerful and stunning iconic defenders to suit every adventure, taste and lifestyle. For sheer excellence with the most precise road holding and ride without compromise, take yourself on a journey of adrenalin with our bespoke range of sport wagon and soft tops. Work with our team to create your own unique Icon loaded with style, speed and performance.

From tuned TDci or TD5 to thumping 3.0 TDV6 or 3.2 TDci diesel power to 320bhp, automatic or manual shift. Go beyond with 4.2-5.0 litre V8 including tuned supercharged, 6 speed manual or sequential shift.

Our range of Icons are available new or pre-loved, ready for you to stamp out your personalised Defender Icon. The Icon range of wagon, soft top or double cab with left or right hand drive complete the stunning driving experience with presence and individuality!

We are the only Land Rover specialists with in-house, dedicated engineers, interior trimmers and coach builders with 120 new and used Defenders available. We deliver service and excellence worldwide.

000_Ad.indd 1

www.defendericon.com icon@neneoverland.co.uk T: 01733 380687

20/11/2012 11:24

Photography: Emilio Bianchi, courtesy Hessen Yachts.

Pure elegance, on land or sea.

Interior Design - Furniture - Nautical Interiors

Coote & Bernardi has designed some of the most soughtafter residences in London’s Mayfair, Belgravia and Knightsbridge. We’re proud to extend our interior design and bespoke furniture expertise towards the nautical industry. For truly outstanding interiors and a unique personalised service from inception to completion, call our London office or email info@cooteandbernardi.com

000_Ad.indd 1

C OOTE & B ER NARDI 59 Pimlico Road, London SW1W 8NE T: +44 20 7259 0960 cooteandbernardi.com

28/02/2013 15:59

- s u p eryac h ts -

Words – Ellie Brade

New

Year,

New

Yachts As 2012 turned into 2013, a rush of new superyachts emerged, starting the beginning of the year with a splash 2013 is well under way and the sound of the popping of champagne corks from the new year festivities has been replaced by the sound of champagne bottles smashing on ship hulls, as a number of thrilling vessels are launched. The start of a year always brings a rush of new superyachts entering the water, and 2013 is no exception.

One of three superyachts launched by Dutch yard Feadship in the last six months, 45-metre Blue Sky is the first superyacht built by a Western shipyard for a client from mainland China. She

launched to great fanfare in a spectacular DutchChinese celebration ceremony featuring dancing Chinese dragons. “Blue Sky features a fresh contemporary interior with lots of lightweight loose furniture,” said Dickie Bannerberg of Bannenberg & Rowell, which designed the yacht’s interior.

A complete custom build, the yacht’s onboard features include dedicated karaoke and Mahjong rooms and a helicopter deck to allow the owner quick access.

- 117 -

117-118_Yachts.indd 117

27/02/2013 14:24

- s u p eryac h ts -

Built by Icon Yachts and designed by Redman Whiteley Dixon, the Maidelle’s stunning interiors are the work of Cristiano Gatto Design

Another new Dutch yacht was 62.5m Maidelle.

Delivered in January and built by Icon Yachts, she was designed by Redman Whiteley Dixon with interior design by Cristiano Gatto Design.

A 17-metre long saloon on the main deck means there is plenty of room for her guests to relax, and there is a multitude of indoor/outdoor areas including a stylish beach club with gym and sauna on the water level. A luxurious private owner’s salon is split over two levels, with a private balcony overlooking the water.

Meanwhile over in Italy, Sanlorenzo launched Alchemist Too, built for a Mexican owner. Her interior is bright and modern, with canaletto chestnut flooring, and whitened oak and white lacquered fittings. Decor is by Minotti, commissioned by the owner who requested a made-in-Italy style interior. Different marbles feature throughout the interior, with ‘crema luna’ marble in the bathrooms and ‘tobacco brown’ marble in the galley. Her owner was keen to make use of all the spaces on the yacht, and the vessel has a gym and an extension stern bathing platform which will be serve as the perfect diving board for jumping into crystal blue waters.

Completing this quartet of new yachts is 50m Lady Sura. Built by American yard Trinity Yachts she is destined for the Caribbean followed by a summer in the Med in her maiden year. Star features on board are her panoramic sky lounge, and fly bridge with hot tub. Her shallow draft makes the ship ideal for island hopping around the warm shallow waters of the Caribbean and exploring remote and untouched destinations. The owner will be able to enjoy a split-level master suite, with unparalleled views from the upper private deck and a spacious master cabin below.

Launches will continue apace for the next few months, with many more yachts set to splash as summer approaches in Europe, ready for the busy cruising season ahead. One thing’s for sure though: for the lucky owners of these four yachts, it will be a summer to remember.

- 118 -

117-118_Yachts.indd 118

27/02/2013 14:25

Make your DREAM body a REALITY

The first of its kind. Your personal assistant to a superior body. We bring the training to you, saving you time and effort. We organise a personalised training regime around you and what works for you. Personal training at any time of the day, anywhere you want.

In as little as 10 weeks from now, you could be in the best shape of your life.

www.thelifestyleconcierge.co.uk Contact info@thelifestyleconcierge.co.uk for more information

000_Ad.indd 1

27/02/2013 15:23

SPECTRA

™

Inspired by the Original Swiss Army Knife, Victorinox travel, business and everyday gear reflects a relentless commitment to quality and functionality.

Lightweight / 100% pure Bayer polycarbonate / Break-resistant shell

SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES | WWW.VICTORINOX.COM 000_Ad.indd 1 VX_TRG_No_P2_POS_EN_Hero_240x300mm_Spectra.indd 1

03/01/2013 16:49 21/12/2012 16:10:18

- h ot els -

Words – Scott Manson

The height of luxury In its fifth decade, the Carlton Tower Hotel is still a giddy treat Two years ago the Carlton Tower Hotel in London’s Knightsbridge marked its 50th anniversary. When it opened in 1961, it was the capital’s tallest hotel, and one of its most expensive standard rooms started at £5 per night, with the Tower Suite costing £50. Since then, prices have increased somewhat, with a deluxe king room clocking in at around £500 per night and the cost of suites soaring into the stratosphere.

It’s fitting, then, that our junior suite is located on the 16th floor of the hotel. From here, the jaw-lowering views take in some of the most exclusive streets in the capital, with Harrods, Hyde Park and Knightsbridge laid out before us like an oligarch’s Monopoly board.

Part of the Jumeirah Group, which has a reputation for some of the highest service standards in the industry, the hotel impresses from the off. There’s the swift check-in, a beautiful bar and restaurant – complete with bar staff clad in traditional white jackets – and the comforting hubbub that comes from a slick operation running at full capacity. Better still, the watch aficionado in me was pleased to spot the display of beautiful Dent watches, and a

- 121 -

121-122_hotel.indd 121

27/02/2013 14:21

- h ot els -

Dent clock, in the lobby. Of all the high-end watch brands the hotel could choose, it was heartening that they selected a quality British watchmaker for this prime position.

Elsewhere, the ninth floor Skyline gym offers great views over the private gardens of Cadogan Square, while the second floor swimming pool – a stainless steel masterpiece – is surprisingly large for a central London hotel and somewhere that you can genuinely plough some good lengths.

The room itself was a handsome affair, decorated in a contemporary style but with a nod to tradition here and there. Ren toiletries and plenty of marble meant the bathroom got

a thumbs-up, while the vast bed and excellent range of audio-visual options were almost enough to keep this reviewer room-bound for the whole stay.

In truth, though, people stay here to shop. It’s a stone’s throw from Harrods and the boutiques of Sloane Square and Knightsbridge are on your doorstep. Little wonder that, during last summer, the hotel was running at a near 100% occupancy rate.

This popularity is also reflected in the many awards that the hotel has won, including a coveted top 10 place on Condé Nast Traveller magazine’s annual Gold List – one of only three UK hotels to be recognised for outstanding service. The hotel was also voted Europe’s leading business hotel at the World Travel Market awards.

Perfectly placed and ultra luxurious, the Jumeirah Carlton Tower is the smart and luxurious choice for all those visiting London’s finest shopping district.

jumeirah.com

- 122 -

121-122_hotel.indd 122

27/02/2013 14:21

MGM, 50 Years of Excellence in the French Alps

Passionate about the Alps...

...let us make your dream come true!

La montagne vous va si bien nous en faisons votre nouvel art de vie!

A shrewd investment to enjoy today and pass on tomorrow

Devenez propriétaire MGM... un investissement judicieux pour profiter aujourd’hui et transmettre demain

Some of the most sought after locations.

Des sites parmi les plus recherchés.

Buildings of extreme quality.

Des constructions d’une extrême qualité.

Painstakingly selected materials.

Des matériaux rigoureusement sélectionnés.

A profitable investment formula.

Une formule d’investissement intéressante.

©MGM - Pascale Carrier - 01/2013 - Crédit photos : Studio E.Bergoend - 123 RF

Become an MGM owner...

CONTACT : please quote reference MGM/eurstar MGM,

smartPhone version also.

000_Ad.indd 1

Tél : +0044 20 7494 0706 www.mgmfrenchproperties.com

25/02/2013 17:37

- T EC H N O LO GY -

Words – Alex Pell

D i g th e n ew Apple MacBook Air Up to £1,850, apple.com/uk

Not many laptops can be employed to slice a cabbage but the Air, hewn from a solid piece of aluminium, is up to the task (there are videos online to prove it).

Indeed, Apple’s wedgeshaped design has proven so popular it has spawned a new category of machine, known as Ultrabooks. This moniker is bandied around loosely, although there are strict criteria, set by Intel. So it’s ironic that the device that began the Ultrabook trend is not technically included in it. Still, despite the arrival

of impressive rivals, the Air remains the most desirable option. Apple eschews the touchscreen that you find on Windows 8 devices. But this omission takes nothing away from the allure of an Air. In performance terms, the MacBook Air remains towards the top of the food chain, even if it no longer dominates the pack, many of which now boast similar specs. Where it does nose ahead is in the integrity of its entire package, which hangs together better than any other rival.

Indeed, the biggest criticism of the 2012 model

is that it lacks the Retina display found on the new Macbook Pro. Other flaws are that the chassis is so thin the screen can tip backward too easily and the bezel around the 13-inch model looks wide compared to the edge-to-edge glamour of its smaller sibling.

This, frankly, is grasping at straws. Your decision largely depends on whether you hanker to buy into the exorbitant Apple ecosystem and favour high design over practicality. If your heart aches for the slinkiest laptop on the planet, though, this is it.

- 124 -

124-125_Technology_1.indd 124

27/02/2013 14:18

b r eed

Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon Up to £1500, lenovo.com

How well do you get on with your boss? With a little luck, you can make a convincing case for investing in this carbon-fibre Lenovo, which totes the kind of features that make sense in a corporate environment such as a fingerprint scanner, the option of built-in mobile broadband – plus, of course, rock-solid reliability. The device has a decent, if unexceptional, 14-inch screen which is about to become touch-enabled for

124-125_Technology_1.indd 125

added swagger. There are a few small gripes to pick at here, not least the hefty price, but there is surely no finer way to show that you mean business than to pull out one of these bad boys at a power meeting. You know you want one.

Acer Aspire S7-391 13.3in Up to £1299, acer.co.uk

This, newly touchscreenenhanced, variant of the Aspire S7 is perhaps the closest thing to an Air in the world of Windows.

The Acer is available in a choice

Looking to upgrade to an ultrabook?

Check out our rundown of your options

of an aluminium unibody or a white Gorilla Glass finish.

Unlike many Ultrabooks, the Aspire S7 is adorned with classy Full HD display that boasts rich colours and excellent viewing angles. It goes pretty much toeto-toe with its Apple nemesis in terms of technical grunt, too, and there are some nice design ideas, such as being able to open the lid one-handed and extend it back so that this lies flat on the desk. The trackpad and keyboard lack a little finesse for such an otherwise polished package but this is nitpicking.

Asus Zenbook Touch U500VZ 15.6in £1500, zenbook.asus.com

There are moments when an extra inch or two make all the difference. While most Ultrabooks max out at about 13, this Asus model offers a full 15.4 inches of touchscreen goodness (although the machine is slightly heavy, at 2.2kg, than its smaller rivals). The Asus Zenbook range has remained right at the pinnacle of Windows design, and so it’s the discriminating choice for those seeking a larger Ultrabook canvas.

27/02/2013 14:18

000_Ad.indd 1

26/02/2013 14:53

- g ro o m i n g -

Eat yourself healthy Keeping fit is all about diet and lifestyle, says Hannah Silver

In a world obsessed with the ‘quick fix’, it’s easy to forget that looking your best takes more than using premium products and a few trips to the gym. Experts insist that it’s a holistic process, encompassing everything from what you’re eating to the amount of sleep you get. Here’s the lowdown on the first steps to full body perfection.

Ski n secr ets Skin needs to be tackled from the outside in, so start with your diet.

Antioxidants fight free radical damage which destroys cells and leaves you looking and feeling tired, so eat plenty of berries, red apples and drink green tea to help with a healthy glow.

Kate McTaggart and Mark Garlick, founders of The Lifestyle Concierge, recommend supplements to ensure you’re getting everything you need: “If you don’t enjoy fish, take a basic essential fatty acid supplement in the morning, as this is the time when your meal is least likely to have any EFAs in it.”

Once an eating plan is in place, you can start with the products.

Sally Penford, education manager at the International Dermal Institute, suggests getting rid of dead skin should be the first step.

“Whether scrubbing or using a hydroxy acid masque, it takes just a few minutes to deep clear pores and slough away dead skin cells to allow better penetration of masques and moisturisers. A face mask, particularly one with vitamins, peptides and botanical extracts, helps re-energise the skin,” she says.

G etti n g th e m ost fro m yo u r wo r ko ut Foods rich in vitamin E will help skin heal and hydrate – just what you need after an intense session.

Wheatgerm, leafy vegetables and whole grains all have a plentiful supply of it, while onions and beetroot contain silicon which is effective in keeping skin supple.

Before a workout, stock up on carbs: “A banana or a shake with oats in it will fuel your body, like petrol for a car,” McTaggart says.

Afterwards, a diet rich in protein is essential as enzymes and muscle fibres in the body need it to grow, so eat lean meat, fish, tofu, beans and eggs to get the most from your exercises.

Sleep th era py It can’t be stressed enough how important sleep is. Without it, the body won’t function properly.

Chronic sleep deprivation will see your body struggle to process carbohydrates, altering the levels of hormones and making it likely you’ll put on weight. Immune function will also change, meaning it’ll be harder to fight viruses, while the increased stress could lead to hypertension and an irregular heartbeat.

McTaggart and Garlick also emphasise the importance of a good diet: “You can get all your macronutrients from vegetables.

You should also be drinking plenty of water. Eliminate high sodium and processed foods, they will make you puffy and cause bags under your eyes. Cut down on sugar to help prevent ageing.

Don’t cut all fat though – a diet too low in fat can dry your skin and leave you looking withered.”

thelifestyleconcierge.co.uk dermalinstitute.com/uk - 127 -

127_Grooming.indd 127

27/02/2013 14:16

advertising feature

000_Ad DPS.indd 2

04/02/2013 13:52

000_Ad DPS.indd 3

04/02/2013 13:53

• Official Service Station for Agusta • A dedicated and professional team for an efficient follow-up after-sales

• The leading expert in providing safe and secure helicopter transportation • A specialized helicopter management team with a professional and discreet service • One of the most exciting European helicopter fleet for a unique service from its bases of Monaco, Geneva, Courchevel, Paris, St Tropez and Le Castellet

• A large fleet of single and twin engines helicopters for business transfers and VIP transportation • A dedicated helicopter management, from flight operation with a customized handling service to the maintenance support • The perfect helicopter/yacht interface to support yacht’s owners in helicopter management operation

MONACAIR

Héliport de Monaco Avenue des Ligures MC 98000 MONACO Phone: +377 97 97 39 00 info@monacair.mc

SKYCAM

Aéroport International du Castellet Hangar n°3, 3100 route des Hauts du Camp 83330 LE CASTELLET Phone: +33 4 94 98 39 92 info@skycam.fr

Hélistation Archamps International Business Park 74160 ARCHAMPS Phone: +33 4 50 39 85 21 info@skycam.fr

SKY MAINTENANCE SERVICES Aéroport International du Castellet RN8, 3100 route des Hauts du Camp 83330 LE CASTELLET Phone: +33 4 94 98 39 94 info@skymaintenanceservices.fr

ALPHAPRINT 06 - 04 93 14 91 65

A LEADING PLAYER IN THE HELICOPTER INDUSTRY

• Licensed Part 145 for Eurocopter and Agusta helicopter family

www.skygroup.fr 000_Ad.indd 1

30/10/2012 11:33

b e a t

- t r av el -

Words – Julien James Davis

of

t h e

With its world-class restaurants, hip clubscene and breathtaking views, Bodrum is Turkey’s most exclusive tourist destination

- 131 -

131-136_Travel.indd 131

B o d r u m

28/02/2013 09:56

Boasting stunning sights and superyachtfriendly waters, Bodrum is one of Turkey’s most exclusive hot-spots

- t r av el -

131-136_Travel.indd 132

27/02/2013 14:05

all have our happy place. A private moment enjoyed in a comfortable setting where we close our eyes and enjoy some inner peace. The more cynical among you may dismiss this as hippy claptrap but, right here, right now, I’ve found just such a place.

This blissful moment sees me bathed in cloudless moonlight at the prow of a yacht, as we sail noiselessly across the Aegean Sea towards the distant fairy-lights of Turkey’s Bodrum Harbour. A gentle warm breeze caresses my cheek as I take a sip of my perfectly chilled champagne and savour this whirlpool of the senses. This, surely, is what it feels like to be king of the world.

As the port grows closer, I can make out

two of Bodrum’s famous landmarks: the stately, stone crenellations of St Peter’s Castle, beautifully lit in burnt gold against the black sky, and to starboard, the iconic dome of the world’s largest outdoor nightclub, Halikarnas.

The latter is our final destination – a fitting end to such an opulent journey.

We’re ushered up to Jade Jagger’s brand new restaurant Secret Garden, situated within the lavishly refurbished club. Tonight marks the closing party of her ‘Jezebel’ monthly residency, a party which sees Jade and various other DJ friends hit the decks. We are celebrating both the restaurant’s success and her triumphant first year in partnership with the club’s exuberant owner, Süleyman Demir – a man she describes as “the most generous man I have ever met,”

and if tonight’s menu is anything to go by, I can see where she is coming from.

Course after course appears, courtesy of renowned chef Nicolas Le Toumelin.

Standouts include a lobster salad and a truly indulgent truffle bouillabaisse with sea bass, red mullet and calamari. To finish, the champagne sabayon with mango carpaccio and strawberry sorbet was so good it literally saw me close my eyes and moan with pleasure. Awkward.

Particularly as the whole table turned round at the sound of my reverie.

The alfresco setting is similarly stunning, offering views out over yachts of all shapes and (generally large) sizes. In fact, on account of the particularly deep nature of the waters around Bodrum, it boasts a stretch of coastline

- 133 -

131-136_Travel.indd 133

27/02/2013 14:05

- t r av el -

The Kempinski Hotel’s food and drink options include the Saigon Club, left, and in-room or on-terrace private dining, below

“The decor of the Kempinski Barbaros hotel has echoes of a Bond villain’s lair”

favoured by superyacht owners – some navigating boats of 100 metres and above – and by summer 2013, Halikarnas’ Beach Club jetty will be complete so that the likes of Bill Gates can pull up next to the club and pop in for a Pimms.

Two hours later, both the club and the drinks are in full flow. I’m sipping on an excellent Chilean Fontera chardonnay and revelling in the decadent majesty of it all. A girl in a leopard-print cat suit struts on a podium to my right and from our vantage point I can see the packed dancefloor cavorting enthusiastically against the backdrop of a star-studded sky. It’s easy to see why everyone from Paris Hilton to Prince Charles has enjoyed the venue’s hedonistic charms over the years.

But return to the hotel we must – and what a hotel it is, too. I’m staying at the Kempinski Barbaros Bay Resort & Spa, a 20-minute hop down the coast. From arrival, you know you’re in for something special. The reception opens out on to a huge circular six-storey atrium with floor-to-ceiling windows offering panoramic views across Barbaros Bay, framed by rolling hills on either side. Naturally, two huge superyachts are moored – with seemingly strategic precision – in the middle of the bay.

Although a relatively new build (it opened in 2005), the décor has echoes of a 1960s Bond villain’s lair. Spiral staircases cut right into the rock nestle against glass walkways. I was half expecting the giant kidney-shaped pool to roll back and reveal the hangar for a rocket.

Elsewhere, the award-winning Six Senses Spa – situated beneath the pool – provided me with a traditional Turkish hammam treatment that left me feeling 10 years younger.

The Bodrum Peninsula has truly undergone a renaissance over the past 10 years, with an influx of luxe-seekers turning it into a, mercifully unspoiled, playboy’s paradise. And as my limo whisks me to the airport at the end of my adventure, I notice the clock on the dash reads 11.17am. I glance back one last time at the Kempinski behind me and up to the picture-perfect azure sky. Perfect, that is, save for a single white smudge hanging there, looking decidedly out of place. Not a cloud though, you understand – no, it appears that even the moon comes to Bodrum on holiday.

- 134 -

131-136_Travel.indd 134

27/02/2013 14:06

HÔTEL DES VENTES DE MONTE-CARLO Auction House www.hvmc.com Hôtel des Ventes de Monte-Carlo

VENTES AUX ENCHERES & EXPERTISES CONFIDENTIELLES AUCTION & CONFIDENTIAL VALUATIONS

CONTACTS BUREAU DES EXPERTS: MONACO - Émilie Belmonte ebelmonte@hv-montecarlo.com Tél. : +377 97 70 83 36 PARIS - Arnaud Beauvois arnaud.beauvois@gmail.com Tél. : +33 1 53 04 90 74

AIX-EN-PROVENCE - Caroline Barbaroux cbarbaroux@baillebeauvois.com Tél. : +33 4 42 27 26 04

000_Ad.indd 1

Monaco 10 -12 Quai Antoine 1er - 98 000 Tél. : 00 377 93 25 88 89 Anne Laure Carrega Secrétaire Générale alcarrega@hvmc.com Alexa Campora Direction des expertises acampora@hvmc.com

30/01/2013 18:00

- t r av el -

Eating out

In keeping with its ultra-rich clientele, the Bodrum peninsula’s restaurants are second to none, serving the best locally sourced produce, meat and seafood. It’s also worth seeking out fresh olive oil and honey from the area. Here are three recommended dining options: Maca Kizi

Chef Aret Sahakyan’s waterside restaurant in Turbuku is a must for every serious foodie.

macakizi.com La Lu ce

The Kempinski Hotel boasts several excellent dining experiences throughout the resort. La Luce offers the latest in contemporary Italian cuisine in a cliff-side alfresco setting.

The lobster ravioli with cream of artichoke and tomato confit is superb.

Try and eat it all because, as they say in Turkey: “Yemek arkandan aglar” – ‘the food left on the plate is crying’.

restaurants.barbaros@kempinski.com Ko ca d o n

Thread your way deftly between the palm fronds and passing mopeds along Neyzen Tevfik Cd in Bodrum harbour, just past the giant outdoor chandelier of Fink and keep your eyes peeled for the discreetly located courtyard of this delightful restaurant. The sautéed octopus au gratin and the freshly caught fish are particularly fine.

From your room in the Kempinski Hotel, top, you’re in easy access to one of Bodrum’s best beaches, above

kocadon.com

How to do it

Halikarnas Club & Secret Garden Restaurant Kumbahçe Mah. Cumhuriyet Cad. No: 132, Bodrum, Turkey

halikarnas.com info@halikarnas.com.tr

Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay Bodrum Kizilagac Koyu, Gerenkuyu Mevkii, Yaliciftlik Bodrum 48400 Turkey

kempinski.com/Bodrum sales.barbaros@kempinski.com - 136 -

131-136_Travel.indd 136

27/02/2013 14:06

000_Ad.indd 1

21/02/2013 09:13

- m o m en ts i n t i m e -

French fancy Whatever your views on his politics, there’s no denying Nicolas Sarkozy was a controversial choice for French president.

His fall from grace came after the French electorate lost confidence in his ability during the economic crisis, growing tired of stories surrounding his yachting holidays and glamorous lifestyle.

Pictured here, ironically enough, at a meeting to emphasise the importance of employment opportunities, Sarkozy was already on his way out. His reputation in the fashion stakes fared no better – the famous stacked heels were ridiculed by the press. But he did sport a fine choice in wrist wear: the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Equation of Time. A beautiful watch, for sure, but in hindsight possibly not the best option for a man leading his country through a bitter recession.

girard-perregaux.com

- 138 -

138_Moments in time.indd 138

27/02/2013 13:51

000_Ad.indd 1

25/02/2013 17:30

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

000_Ad.indd 1

10/12/2012 10:38