Tempus 23

Page 1

23

Best of SIHH / Patek Philippe / Lamborghini Huracรกn / Greatest living watchmakers / Jermyn Street special / California road trip / Cool cufflinks / Watch snob / Hip homes / Classic cars




Made in Switzerland / Self-winding, customised ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph with hour and minute bi-compax sub-dials / 42 hour power reserve / 42mm, high-tech ceramic case with titanium sub-frame / AR08 coated, museum grade, sapphire crystal / Delta and canard wing shaped stop-second hand / RAF low-visibility roundel at 6 o’clock counter / Deep-etched case-back engraving / Military style, high density webbing and leather strap with Bader deployment

Showroom at No.1 Park Street, Maidenhead. To arrange a personal appointment, call +44 (0)1628 763040



Seamless indulgence Design - Manufacture - Install

Swimming Pools

Saunas

Vitality Pools


Steam Rooms

Vitality Spas

www.rigospa.com


TOM MERRIFIELD

Alina Cojocaru

020 7431 0794

www.tommerrifield.co.uk


- fo r ewo r d -

issue

Twenty three Contributors

From the editor Editor

Scott Manson

scott.manson@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4693 Art Director

Jonny Hughes

tempusartwork@astongreenlake.com 020 3006 2122 Writer

Hannah Silver

hannah.silver@astongreenlake.com Web development Manager

Mitchell Finlay

mitchell.finlay@astongreenlake.com Business Development Director

Mark Edwards

mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688 Account Manager

Ashley Collin

ashley.collin@astongreenlake.com Managing Director

Jay Boisvert

Tempus is published monthly by Aston Greenlake publishing Ltd, 8th floor, 6 mitre passage, london se10 0er. TEL: 020 3617 4688 printed by

The start of the year is always a busy time for the luxury goods industry. There’s London Fashion Week and London Collections: Men – both attended by Tempus, of course – and the annual Geneva-based invitation-only watch showcase that is the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). It’s one of the premier events in the watch industry’s calendar and the only opportunity you can see all of the Richemont brands’ new watches in one place. From Cartier to Jaeger-LeCoultre to Panerai, IWC and more, 16 exhibitors revealed 2014’s hottest new horology. Selecting a handful of the best timepieces to highlight was a thorny task, but turn to page 48 to see what made the final cut. We’ve also been doing some trendspotting in the interior design world this month, looking at how hip homeowners will be transforming their properties in 2014. Fashion is also to the fore in our feature on page 99, which showcases the stores of Jermyn Street, arguably London’s most fashionable thoroughfare for the modern gentleman. For the uninitiated, it’s a sartorial retail experience not to be missed. Elsewhere, we head out on the Pacific Coast Highway for a Californian road trip, review Lamborghini’s awe-inspiring Huracán and, keeping with the vehicular theme, take a closer look at the classic car market. If you’re hankering after a vintage motor, our feature on page 64 will give you a good steer. Enjoy the issue.

Hannah Silver

As a watch and luxury lifestyle writer for the Daily Telegraph, and an in-house scribe for Tempus, Hannah is well placed to reveal the much-disputed list of the world’s greatest living watchmakers. “To be honest,” she says, “we could have filled this list several times over.” Take a look at the feature on page 88 and see if you agree with her findings.

Kyle Fortune

This former Top Gear magazine writer and founder of carenthusiast.com travels the world testing some of the greatest cars on the market. On page 64, he reveals some of the best classic motors for both investment and enjoyment.

Chris Elwell-Sutton

A Californian road trip saw travel writer Chris take in some fine West Coast views and seriously special hotels. Turn to page 116 to discover the latest in luxury coastal cool.

Scott Manson Editor - 09 -


The iconic sports cars by

Swiss artist Dante presents a unique collectible 1:24 sculpture of most famous iconic sports cars. The legendary Lamborghini Miura is the fourth in the award winning artist’s series of iconic sports cars: the Mercedes Benz 300SL , the Aston Martin DB5 and the Ferrari 250 GTO. A limited edition of 50 pieces from each car will be made in solid silver finished with 24 karat gold. One special edition of each iconic sports car will be made in solid gold of 18 karat, finished with 24 karat gold. Every art piece comes with a piano black lacquered case and solid silver USB Stick finished with 24 Karat gold, containing the certificate and a number of videos of Dante’s artwork.

Design by Dante GmbH Murtenstr.34 CH-3202 Frauenkappelen Schwitzerland info@dantedesign.ch www.dantedesign.ch


- c o n t en ts -

Inside issue twenty three

- 12 Take Me There Venture

forth into the Tolkien-esque surroundings of New Zealand’s South Island - 15 Luxury Briefing This

month’s most intriguing luxury offerings - 27 Food and Drink Epicurean

enjoyment courtesy of a Mayfair hotspot and a Las Vegas hotel - 30 The Word Scott Manson

on this year’s hottest dining trends

- 75 Hip Homes 2014’s

- 32 The Watch Snob AskMen’s

interior design trends revealed

columnist pulls no punches when solving your horological conundrums

- 88 Greatest Living Watchmakers

- 35 Auction Watch Our

Discover the most skilful, inventive and daring auteurs of time

pick of the best pieces going under the hammer

- 99 Jermyn Street Showcase

- 38 Fashion and Accessories

No longer a fusty alley filled with ageing aristocracy, London’s Jermyn Street is officially on trend

Seriously sophisticated Valentine’s Day gifts - 40 Object of Desire All

- 106 Raging Bull

eyes are on the latest release from Patek Philippe

The sensational supercar that is the Lamborghini Huracán

- 43 Style Advice: Cufflinks

- 109 History Repeating A

In need of some cuff love? Here’s where to start

trio of top hotels, now with added glamour

- 48 The Best of SIHH We

- 116 California Dreaming

cherry-pick the choicest pieces from the recent luxury watch expo

We take a drive along the Pacific Coast Highway to take in some of California’s most awe-inspiring views

- 64 A Rare Vintage The

classic car market has never been stronger, so what should the wise investor be buying?

Special thanks: Simon Berkovitch

- 11 -

- 122 Moments in Time Jazz

great Duke Ellington and his Cartier Tank


Take me there

- 12 -


One destination to rule them all

- n ew z ea la n d

The release of the latest film in The Hobbit trilogy means all eyes are once again on New Zealand. February is the perfect time to visit the beautiful Lake Pukaki in the South Island, overlooked by Aoraki/Mt Cook – the country’s highest peak – and a favoured location of mountaineers, hikers and adrenaline seekers alike. If sports spectating is more your bag, don’t miss February’s two-day rugby tournament, the Hertz Sevens, which is one of the country’s biggest and most anticipated sporting events.

newzealand.com

- 13 -


YOU CAN TELL A GOOD WATCH BY ITS HEART. The most important element of a genuine Armin Strom is the movement. Not only is it where the work begins, it is also at the heart of the design. This means that everybody who checks the time will always see the beauty of the technology. arminstrom.com

TOURBILLON WATER

MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ATC11 16½‘‘‘


- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Because the best things in life aren't free Future perfect

H au t len c e

The Hautlence HLRQ01 offers the contemporary style as we’ve come to expect from this envelope-pushing brand. For the third model in the HLRQ line, Hautlence has gone avantgarde with an in-house-designed sapphire dial and superimposed discs, all of which give an impression of breezy weightlessness.

hautlence.com

- 15 -


- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

State of the art

Lo ew e

The Loewe Reference ID is already one of the most attractive TVs on the market, but as it’s now fully bespoke, your own colours, materials and motifs can be easily incorporated into the design. A razor-sharp picture is ensured thanks to Full HD (1080p) technology with LED backlighting, while a minimalist design, individualised access to the internet and flawless networking mean it uses some of the most cuttingedge technology currently available.

loewe.tv

A great man, honoured M o n t eg r a p pa

Bespoke brilliance

Dav i d Wa r d

David Ward tailoring marks a return to the old-school values of Savile Row. After more than 20 years on London’s best-known street of style, he’s honed his own aesthetic and clocked up an impressive CV, working with Christopher Kane and Henry Holland, as well as having been the personal cutter to Alexander McQueen. Now available for private commissions, his modern style and traditional values make him one to watch.

davidwardbespoke.com

- 16 -

Montegrappa has honoured everyone from Sylvester Stallone to Paulo Coelho with its luxurious range of pens, but its latest subject is arguably the most prestigious. It has reached an agreement with the Mandela family to produce a limited edition collection of 500 sets including pens, watches and cufflinks – 500 representing the number of medical clinics that were upgraded or constructed during Mandela’s presidency of South Africa. The pens feature rose gold decoration and a cap engraved with the map of South Africa and Mandela’s signature, completing this prestigious offering.

montegrappa.com


Nights in black lacquer

H u b lot

Hublot isn’t known for its evening watches, but its latest release may be about to change all that. The Classic Fusion Tourbillon Night-Out is crafted from dusky black polished ceramic and has a black lacquered dial set with ten baguette diamonds, making for a surprisingly elegant affair. Fortunately, the tech credentials remain impeccable, thanks to a flying tourbillon and movement produced entirely in-house.

hublot.com

- 17 -


- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

All the right notes

G r a d o La b s

Music and whiskey drinking have always been a great partnership, but never quite like this. These stylish new headphones from Grado Labs – designed by Elijah Wood no less – are created from the barrels used to age Bushmills Irish Whiskey. The authentically-aged wood not only looks good, but also helps to produce awardwinning sound.

turntablelab.com

A clear winner

Th e M aca lla n

The Macallan has just released the fifth decanter in the precious Six Pillars Collection, which has been pairing the finest, rarest whisky with bespoke, crystal decanters since 2005, to global acclaim. This time, the whisky is a rare 62-year-old Macallan single malt – the second-oldest expression released by the distillery since its inception in 1824.

themacallan.com - 18 -


September 2013 39


- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

A regal affair

M o n t b la n c

The Montblanc Princesse Grace de Monaco collection uses the rose, the Princess’s favourite flower, to create an arresting, contemporary collection featuring interlocking petals in red gold.

montblanc.com

African retreat

A n a n ta r a Baza ru to I s la n d R es o rt & S pa

The luxurious Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort & Spa is new for 2014. Situated just 30km east of Mozambique, it’s built on a protected national park island in the Bazaruto archipelago. It comprises 44 villas, a wide choice of restaurants and an impressive spa complete with hydrotherapy pool and rhassoul chamber.

bazaruto.anantara.com

- 20 -


Seeking perfection?

Luxury yacht charter made perfect

London +44 20 7766 4299

I

MonACo +377 97 97 83 10

The 20-45m luxury yacht specialists

I

MiAMi +1 305 672 9400

PALMA I Athens I MuMbAI I tOKYO I MOsCOW

enquiries@osyachting.com


- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

London through a lens

Kat a n d Ella

Bespoke luxury travel planners Kat and Ella have teamed up with professional photographer David Brook (pictured) to offer original and creative photography tours within the heart of the capital. Suitable for both beginners or advanced photographers, these bespoke photography tours are designed for either an individual or small groups of up to six people. For more photo opportunities in some of Europe’s finest cities, Kat and Ella can also arrange creative photography tours in Paris, Seville and Venice.

www.katandella.com

Epicurean odyssey

Elb u lli 2 0 0 5-2 0 1 1

Spain’s elBulli was regularly awarded the world’s best restaurant accolade, with kitchen overlord Ferran Adrià regarded the world’s greatest chef. The restaurant, which used to receive two million reservation enquiries a year for 8,000 dining spaces, closed in 2011. Foodies can still enjoy its groundbreaking molecular gastronomy dishes, though, thanks to this seven volume compendium of every dish ever served at the restaurant. Beautifully presented, it’s an essential insight into the world’s most creative kitchen.

phaidon.com/elbulli - 22 -


EXPERIENCE LONDON GOLF CLUB In a world where the finest details matter, London Golf Club continues to raise the bar. Our two championship courses, designed by Jack Nicklaus are maintained in pristine condition all year-round and have some of the finest putting surfaces in the country. The perfect members club, London Golf Club is situated 20 miles south-east of Central London and has no politics, no waiting lists and no committees.

S U R PA S S I N G E X P E C TAT I O N S

S O C I A L I S E

W I T H

L G C

STANSTED LANE | ASH | KENT | TN15 7EH | 01474 879899 | golf@londongolf.co.uk | www.londongolf.co.uk


Tour Europe in Style Our driving vacations allow you to explore the best of Europe in style. Journey across the high alpine roads and mountain passes of the Alps, tour through the vineyards of Provence, Tuscany or Rioja or enjoy the sun kissed coastal roads of the Cote d’Azur. Each driving adventure has a unique identity, and includes a series of pre designed scenic drives that take you on a journey of discovery, enjoying cultural and gourmet highlights and staying at the most exclusive hotels along the way.

For more information, visit our website or call one of our Travel Advisers

Get Inspired:

Journey

2

Aston Martin through the Alps

Neugutstrasse 16, Zurich, 8304, Switzerland +41 43 542 0867 www.ultimatedrives.net info@ultimatedrives.net


- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Equine excellence

C h o pa r d

Chopard is celebrating the Year of the Horse in typically dazzling style with the special edition L.U.C. XP Urushi. Urushi – a Japanese ancestral decorative art technique – is used in the beautiful handpainted dial that honours this most traditional form of craftsmanship.

chopard.com

- 25 -


Longthorne Redefining English gunmaking

ü100% English üTrue Sidelock üSteel proofed üLightweight üNegligible recoil üBespoke üadvanced barrel

technology with no soldered joints

www.longthorneguns.com admin@longthorneguns.com Ph +44 (0) 1772 811215


- fo o d & d r i n k -

Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens Rextail

Reviewed by Scott Manson

London’s Albemarle Street is fast becoming a foodie hotspot with the highly-acclaimed Gymkhana and the old-school of HIX both sitting a stone’s throw from Rextail, Russian restaurateur Arkady Novikov’s latest venture. Like his eponymous Berkeley Street restaurant – which defied the critics to become one of the capital’s success stories of last year – Rextail’s clientele is a cross-section of the Mayfair set. From hedge fund managers to gallery owners to young, super-rich Russians, the place is buzzing with the swagger of a crowd hell-bent on having fun. On descending to the subterranean space, comfy chairs and an open kitchen create a relaxed feel with the restaurant opening out to a long, narrow room. An aged wood floor, swinging hunks of salami, pendant lights and exposed ducting give the impression of a casual bistro, but the food is anything but run-of-the-mill. It’s a big menu – arguably too big, because choosing took us an age – focusing mainly around grilled meat and fish. Indeed, when we told the waiter we intended to choose steak, he returned with a platter of some seriously good meat: Irish Black Angus, Inverary Dry Aged Scottish, Wagyu, US bison striploin and much more. As I said, allow plenty of time for deliberation. This being a relatively new opening, there were a few niggles. The place was packed, so service was a little slow, the waiter had to ask us which dishes we’d ordered when he brought them to the table and, despite requesting two Old Fashioned cocktails – a classic that every barman should know – something seemed

- 27 -

to get lost in translation as we ended up with a couple of sweet, fruity concoctions instead. All this paled into insignificance, though, once the hearty servings of specialist meat started arriving. The mighty chef ’s toy that is the Josper grill had cooked them perfectly, seared with a slight crust on the outside and tender inside. Served with a pot of béarnaise and some string-style French fries, this was man food raised to a high art. Similarly strong were some slow-braised short ribs – meltin-the-mouth stuff – which were accompanied by bone marrow and a good helping of roasted vegetables. Although our table resembled a monument to meat, I did glance around and spot a neighbouring couple enjoying what looked like a thick, chunky fillet of wild sea bass and wild mushrooms. There was also a Nobu-style black cod with miso that I spotted in a waiter’s hands – it too looked to be a perfectly judged example of what has become something of a fine dining classic. We considered dessert but, frankly, this isn’t a place to linger, and I mean that in the nicest possible sense. The rooms has such a buzz about it – a sense that the meal is just one part of a big night out – that we felt compelled to head out to the bars and clubs of Mayfair. With that in mind, if you plan to dine at Rextail, my advice is to give yourself the next morning off, because a night courtesy of Novikov can lead even the best of us astray. rextail.co.uk


- fo o d & d r i n k -

Sketches of Spain

Hakkasan Las Vegas

Reviewed by Chris Elwell-Sutton

“Do you have reservations, guys?” asks a friendly, handsome, door dude. Surveying the immaculate dark suits, earpieces, clipboards and general buzz outside, you could have been forgiven for feeling as though you were attempting to gain entry to an exclusive club in London, Hollywood or Manhattan, not a Las Vegas restaurant. The city’s providers of upscale entertainment offerings are now partnering with elite international brands and Michelin-starred chefs as they prioritise style, class and quality over glitzy gaudiness. The MGM Grand is the largest hotel complex in the US and, following a $160m revamp, is arguably at the forefront of this trend. As for Hakkasan itself, founded in 2001, it’s a London-based dining brand whose Michelin-starred Cantonese menu and motto of “modern authenticity” has seen the brand open 11 restaurants at upscale locations across the US, India and the Middle East. We make it past the velvet rope. Dark, mysterious, and with a mix of Far Eastern and Blade Runner-esque futurism, the restaurant provides a uniquely diverse environment that reflects the nature of the cuisine. A five-storey restaurant-cumnightclub, Hakkasan plays European house music in the restaurant, creating a cool, buzzy reminder of the nightlife that awaits upstairs, where international DJs such as Calvin Harris and deadmau5

regularly ply their trade in a state-of-theart venue with full VIP service. That’s not to say that all the diners here are clubbers – there’s a wide age range – but the ambience is a cool, exclusive one and the dress code favours upmarket smart/casual wear rather than the formal wear you’d find at Hakkasan’s MGM neighbour, Joel Robuchon, Vegas’s only three Michelin star restaurant. As is the case at other Hakkasan locations, the service is impeccable and as well as being charming and chatty (but, equally importantly, not too chatty), our waitresses are impressively knowledgeable about everything on the menu. One of the evening’s key culinary highlights is a stir fried black pepper beef ribeye with merlot, the wine adding richness to beef that’s impressively tender, exquisitely spiced and smoky in its flavour and beautifully presented on a cone of vermicelli. Honey-roasted Chilean sea bass is another triumph, as was a duck salad enhanced by the fresh, clean textures of orange and watercress. The fruit platter is a crazy and spectacular cornucopia of vibrant colours and flavours and the cocktails are not only original and delicious, but also dangerously punchy in their alcohol content. A night at Hakkasan provides proof, if any were needed, that Las Vegas nightlife has raised its game. hakkasanlv.com/

- 28 -

The Spanish wines recognised by most Englishmen tend to be Cava and Rioja with a possible nod to Ribera del Duero and Priorat, if they have been doing their homework. In one week in the country, though, I have drunk a world class godello from a New Zealander living in Galicia, a red from a bunch of mavericks who are trying to put the mancia grape back on the wine map and a gorgeous old-school Rioja. Aside from being truly interesting bottles, the reds last for ever, so my advice is to invest in a taste of Spain today. by Peter Dean viva espaÑa

Imperial Gran Reserva 2005

This classic Rioja gets its name from a special bottling that took place for the English market in a measure called Pinta Imperial. It’s reliable and lasts an eternity. 2001 and 2005 are the best vintages from the past 15 years, so buy a case or two.

tannerswines.co.uk, £26.70 for a 75cl bottle

Bodegas Avanthia – Godello 2010

Although this winery is only six years old, its 100% godello comes from vines that were planted almost 100 years ago in Galicia. Parker’s Wine Advocate regularly gives this a 92 or 93 rating – which is almost unheard of for the price point.

bordeauxindex.com, £170 for a 12-bottle case

Dominio do Bibei Lalama 2009

Like godello, the mencia grape that makes up 90% of this exciting discovery was a recluse and is now one of Spain’s rising stars. The grapes are intensely small berries, the terroir rugged and the taste sublime – like a more approachable cabernet franc. Drink with wild boar stew.

thevineking.com, £19.95 for a 75cl bottle



- t h e wo r d -

2014’s dining trends Scott Manson

Scott Manson is the editor of Tempus.

I recently tried some soup that had been made with pasta created using a 3D printer. And while the meal itself was definitely a zeitgeist-surfing moment, it tasted less like the future and more like chewing a 20 year old newspaper. From lab-grown burgers to the TomTato, a plant that grows tomatoes up top and potatoes down below, there is a host of futuristic food trends coming our way in the next few years. Happily, the gastronomic trends for 2014 are an altogether more appealing proposition, with London’s bar and restaurant scene continuing to set the bar high. The former saw the Artesian bar at the capital’s Langham Hotel named number one in the World’s 50 Best Bars survey last year, with seven other London bars also making the cut. And while last year’s hipper bars embraced the trend of ‘barrel ageing’ cocktails – storing a cocktail batch in a wooden barrel until it becomes smoother and more complex – the American trend of adding vinegars to cocktails will gain traction this year. We are, of course, talking vintage balsamic though, rather than the sort of stuff you might slosh on some chips. In terms of food, expect South American to remain a hip choice with London’s foodies, as Martin Morales of Ceviche fame opens Andina, a Shoreditch-based all day Peruvian diner. Following the success of chef Bruno Loubet’s Grain Store, in London’s revitalised King’s Cross, expect to see more restaurant’s framing their menu around the ‘two veg and meat’ concept. For many places, it seems, meat will take a back seat in favour of celebrating the versatility of vegetables.

- 30 -

Elsewhere, modern Vietnamese cuisine will transcend its cheap eat roots to become a higher-end offering. Look out for Bobby Chinn’s House of Ho in Soho, which has already garnered favourable reviews following its soft launch last month. Gordon Ramsay continues to expand his operations, with booming Battersea the next target for the sweary Scotsman. His new restaurant, London House, opens there this month. Another chef that’s got gastronomes hot under the collar is Simon Rogan, who runs Michelin-starred L’Enclume in Cumbria and previously helmed two-year pop-up Roganic in Marylebone. His eagerly awaited arrival as head chef at Mayfair’s Claridges in the spring could herald a new style of dining, as Rogan is well known for his foraging and creative way with seasonal and local ingredients. 2013 saw me dine at all three of the restaurant’s in London’s Shard – Oblix, Aquashard and Hutong – and I’m looking forward to another high-level meal when the Seafood bar & Grill and the Champagne Bar open on 37th and 35th floor respectively at the capital’s ‘walkie talkie’ building at Fenchurch Street later this year. It’s rumoured that Heston Blumenthal will have some involvement in menu planning. If 2013 saw hipsters reclaim the burger, then this year sees them turn their attention to the pizza. Expect lots more stories behind the dough, artisan ingredients such as heritage tomatoes and British cheese toppings, all served with microbrewery craft beers. Perhaps not the luxury offering we usually enjoy here at Tempus towers but, damn, they sound good.


www.OldRacingCar.co.uk

01692 538 007 07831 379 111

rkent@oldracingcar.co.uk

300 SLR This is a very rare hand-built recreation of one of the most iconic racing cars in the world - the Mercedes 300 SLR. Modelled on the 1955 Mille Miglia-winning car of Stirling Moss, the all-aluminium body is absolutely correct, with dimensions taken from the original car (now in the Mercedes Museum) and comes with wrap round sports screen, leather seats and detachable head fairings, to create the quintessential 1950s GT. £POA

XK Speedster This genuinely unique, bespoke built Jaguar XK Speedster is the only one of its kind in the world. It is the result of three year's research and development and a meticulous build programme. Its combines 1950s retro styling with 21st century performance, and features a hand-crafted all-aluminium body; bespoke-built chassis by an ex-Formula One specialist; and an uprated XK 4.7 litre engine by a renowned race specialist, producing over 320 bhp. Classic & Sportscar declared it to be 'the ultimate road going sports-racer' with 'astonishing acceleration' and 'excellent roadholding and balance' while Jaguar Driver magazine said it was both 'glorious and breathtaking', having ' the power, looks and bold presence to please all of the senses… ' One of only one. £POA

330 GTO RHD

Untitled-1 1

Jaguar XKSS

Aston Martin DB3S/R

Ferrari 250 GT Europa

15/10/2013 15:53


The

Got a question about timepieces? Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say…

Classic conundrum

First watch

Pretenders to the throne

Hi Snob, I am caught in a love triangle; torn between two classic beauties. On one side is the historically significant Patek Philippe Calatrava. On the other is the beautiful and simplistic A. Lange Saxonia. While they are both perfect on the outside, can you enlighten me on which watch has the better movement? I am also tempted by the great feat of engineering which is the Saxonia. Thin, but with a 40mm case, is the watch verging on being too large?

Hi Watch Snob, I have decided I need to start wearing a watch. My smartphone is just not doing it for me anymore. So far, my list includes the JLC Master Chronograph, Zenith El Primero 36’000 VpH and I’m also interested in a Glashütte. (I’m from Zurich, but don’t have any qualms about buying a non-Swiss watch.) My budget is CHF10,000, so if you think there are any other watches I should consider, I’d love to hear about them. Here’s the problem: I’m a 5ft 2in, 125lb woman with a 15cm wrist circumference. What’s the absolute biggest size I can go with without it looking ridiculous on me? I’m always disappointed when l go through the options under “Women’s Collection” It’s really frustrating... full of diamonds and weird shapes and colours! Thanks in advance for your help.

Hello Snob I’m going to throw three brands at you: Nivrel, Damasko and Limes. Is this a trio of pretenders? I couldn’t tell how in-house or not Nivrel is. Are they worth the money compared with similarly priced competition?

My personal preference is the Saxonia. There is nothing wrong, as such, with the Calatrava, but the present movement, Patek Philippe calibre 215 PS, is not the best they’ve ever used. It suffers in comparison to some of Patek Philippe’s superb vintage movements – like the calibre 12-400 – both in basic design and in finish. The Saxonia, on the other hand, is from a company that makes one-fifth the number of watches Patek does and, unlike the 215 PS, it has one of the nicest movements Lange has ever made — the 2.9mm-thick calibre L093.1. Personally, I would like it even better at 38mm, but I have a rather gracile frame. The ubiquity of the Calatrava is not that of the Submariner but it’s something of a cliché in its own right; the fact that it’s currently one of the weaker links in the historic Calatrava chain does not help its case.

These are German brands with pedestrian Swiss movements, all of them. How could you not tell that Nivrel is not in-house? Their company slogan is: “The German watch with the Swiss heart.” Need any more clues? Damasko is a Sinn wannabe that takes the German overengineering thing a bit too far, but at least it’s making a bit of an effort. And Limes is a casemaker with lazy, derivative designs and an unfortunate name. Pretenders? Draw your own conclusions. Are they worth the money? In that price range, you get exactly what you pay for – and that’s all I’ll say.

You have a very nice starting list of watches there and my impression is you know your own tastes quite well, so I don’t think you really need me to add to your list. I would simply add that I have seen quite a few women of diminutive frame wearing larger watches and happen to find the effect quite fetching. The only thing to watch out for is a watch so large that the lugs protrude noticeably past the edges of radius and ulna, but other than that, the world is your oyster.

To read more from the Watch Snob, head to askmen.com - 32 -


Need Britain’smost most Needaa break break in one of Britain’s outstanding natural beauty? beauty? outstanding areas of natural Need a break in one of Britain’s most outstanding areas of natural beauty?

Situated in the heart of stunning Constable Country just an hour from London is the luxurious, family-owned Situated in the heart of stunning Constable Country just an hour from London is the luxurious, family-owned Stoke by Nayland Hotel, Golf & Spa and the beautiful newly-built 1940s-inspired Country Lodges. Stoke by Nayland Hotel, Golf & Spa and the beautiful newly-built 1940s-inspired Country Lodges. Situated in the a heart of sophisticated stunning Constable just an hour London is thefor luxurious, family-owned Offering more typeCountry of staycation, the from lodges are ideal quiet romantic

Offering a Nayland more sophisticated type ofthe staycation, the lodges are ideal for quiet romantic Stoke by Golf & Spa beautiful newly-built 1940s-inspired Country breaks or familyHotel, holidays packedand with activities. They are also perfect for largerLodges. family breaks or family holidays packed with activities. They are also perfect for larger family gatherings, perhaps for a special anniversary or birthday, or even a wedding? Offering a more sophisticated type ofanniversary staycation, theorlodges are ideal for quiet romantic gatherings, perhaps for a special birthday, or even a wedding? breaks or family holidays packed with activities. They are also perfect for larger family

Book your Country Lodge stay by 265835 emailing sales@stokebynayland.com gatherings, perhaps for calling a special01206 anniversary or or birthday, or even a wedding? Book your Country Lodge stay by calling 01206 265835 or emailing sales@stokebynayland.com Book your Country Lodge stay by calling 01206 265835 or emailing sales@stokebynayland.com

www.stokebynaylandlodges.com 01206 262836 www.stokebynaylandlodges.com 01206 262836

www.stokebynayland.com www.stokebynaylandlodges.com email: www.stokebynaylandlodges.com 01206sales@stokebynayland.com 262836

www.stokebynayland.com www.stokebynaylandlodges.com email: sales@stokebynayland.com Stoke by Nayland Hotel, Golf & Spa, Keepers Lane, Leavenheath, Colchester, CO6 4PZ www.stokebynayland.com www.stokebynaylandlodges.com email: sales@stokebynayland.com Stoke by Nayland Hotel, Golf && Spa, Lane,Leavenheath, Leavenheath, Colchester, CO6 4PZ Stoke by Nayland Hotel, Golf Spa,Keepers Keepers Lane, Colchester, CO6 4PZ



- au ct i o n watc h -

Underthe hammer Targeting the finest lots, worldwide: an immaculate 1929 Bugatti, a timeless Panerai timepiece and a pair of beautiful, 19th-century 12-bore Hammer Ejector shotguns

Bonhams

Built in France in 1929, this Bugatti 37A was originally a four-cylinder Grand Prix model used solely in competitions. It’s had a colourful and welldocumented history and is now in immaculate condition following a complete rebuild by Gentry Restorations.

Estimated at £1.2m to £1.5m. The Bonhams Grand Palais Sale is on 6 February. bonhams.com

Antiquorum

Antiquorum’s February watch auction in Hong Kong has many tempting pieces, but the highlight has to be this timeless Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon from 2010.

Estimated at £43,000 to £51,000. The Antiquorum auction is on 22 February. antiquorum.com

Gavin Gardiner

Gavin Gardiner’s first auction of 2014 features this beautiful, rare pair of 12-bore Hammer Ejector shotguns. Built in 1895, they were made by James Purdey & Sons for Sir Harry Stonor, a distinguished shooting companion of King Edward VII and King George V.

Estimated at £20,000 to £30,000. The Fine Modern & Vintage Sporting Guns auction is on 16 April at Sotheby’s. gavingardiner.com

- 35 -



108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk


- fas h i o n & ac c ess o r i es -

01

A love supreme Your shopping list for a legendary Valentine’s gift starts with this stellar selection 01 Hancocks For something out-of-the-ordinary, Hancocks is perfect. Specialising in rare and collectible jewels, its cocktail ring collection features blue sapphires, orange vitrines and bright purple amethysts for a welcome winter pop of colour.

hancocks-london.com

02 Casamorati

Revived Art Deco perfume house Casamorati has returned with eight coveted scents that come packaged in beautiful flacons for a gift that’s both romantic and glamorous.

fortnumandmason.com

03 Barbara Tipple Barbara Tipple’s beautiful jewellery is all handmade in Britain, with each piece incorporating precious materials around a mystic moonstone theme. Every item is oneof-a-kind, making for an eminently thoughtful gift.

barbaratipple.co.uk - 38 -

04 Blancpain

05 Bogh-Art

Blancpain’s annual Valentine’s Day release hits the mark again this year. With its delicate mother of pearl dial, diamondsprinkled bezel and embroidery-like border, it makes for a more delicate timepiece than we traditionally expect from the brand.

Bogh-Art’s new London haute joaillerie collection is a revelation. Centred around the emerald, it eschews the classic emerald cut and instead embraces portrait, cabochon, pear and cushion cuts, all paired with mother of pearl and diamonds.

blancpain.com

bogh-art.com


02

03

04

05


- o bj ects o f d es i r e -

Patek Philippe You never actually own a Patek Philippe – as the brand’s evocative adverts have it, you merely look after it for the next generation. And when it comes to futureproofed sophistication and desirability, this latest release – the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270G – is a case in point. When the 5270G was launched three years ago, it was acclaimed for its combination of perpetual calendar with chronograph calibre, making it one of the Swiss brand’s more elaborate achievements. Now, the model has been refined and the aesthetic of the watch is as appealing as the complications. A tachometer scale circles the outside of a dial which is now in a silvery opaline or blue sunburst, while the size of the logo on the dial has been reduced, bringing it closer in design terms to the muchcoveted chronographs of old. It’s a fabulous update of an exceptionally serious timepiece. patek.com

- 40 -


- 41 -


outstandingcufflinkdesigns.co.uk Stockists include: Graham & Co. Farnham 01252 724606

Green + Benz. Sheffield 0114 270 6366

Mark Adam. Royal Tunbridge Wells 01892 616 617

Berry’s Jewellers. Windsor 01753 840930

Mallory. Bath 01225 788 800

Martin & Co. Cheltenham 01242 522 821


- Sty le A dv i c e -

Words - Hannah Silver

cuff love Fact: no gentleman’s wardrobe is complete without quality cufflinks. From craftsmanship to selection, here’s your exquisitely tailored shirt’s guide to the perfect partners

Deakin and Francis James and Henry Deakin, managing directors of Deakin and Francis, on the craftsmanship of cufflinks

Deakin and Francis was founded in 1786: we’re the seventh generation to manage it, so tradition is very important to us. We spent our school holidays joining our father at work, watching and learning from the craftsmen and attending trade shows. While we specialise in the rare, highly skilled craft of vitreous enamelling – or hand enamel – this is only one part of the process. Stage 1: Sampling A sheet of precious metal is stamped with the desired shape and then placed into the hydraulic press, before the metalworker adds the blank to the die. Stage 2: Mounting Fitting is added to the silver blank, before it’s plunged into a pickle paste to have the ‘fire’ (oxidation marks) removed.

- 43 -

Stage 3: The Assay process The cufflinks are packaged and weighed with all fitting components. They’re then delivered to the Assay office who hallmark the cufflinks. Stage 4: Enamelling Glass colours are ground to a fine powder, mixed with distilled water and applied to the metal, which is then placed in the kiln for heating. This is a process that’s repeated for greater depth. Stage 5: Polishing The cufflinks are placed into the barrelling machine to clean the surface. Stage 6: Mounting The mounter adds the fitting, a thin silver pin, to fix the fittings in place. Your cufflinks are now complete. deakinandfrancis.co.uk


- Sty le A dv i c e -

“A singular look is something that will always be in style” I may pay attention to trends, but I will always remain faithful to the company ethos – unique, luxury cufflinks of the solid push-through type that all evolve from a 3D, functional form. They’re more than just cufflinks; they’re tactile objects resulting from several years of development.

Outstanding Cufflinks Designs Lee Graham, founder of Outstanding Cufflink Designs, on finding your own style

Since my apprenticeship to a diamond mounter at Graff when I was a teenager, I’ve been determined to execute these unique ideas in the flamboyant, bold style I love. As well as my cufflink collection, I create bespoke pieces for private clients which allows me to channel current trends. The special finishes and colours I apply to my designs usually reflect what’s hot in watches – at the moment, there’s a lot of rose gold and matte black. At the end of the day, I’m inspired by exciting sculptural influences and like to engineer them in precious metals, gemstones and materials, allowing wearers to show their individuality. And a singular look is something that will always be in style. outstandingcufflinkdesigns.co.uk

- 44 -

Brooks Brothers

A Stateside take on classic cufflinks

Brooks Brothers was founded almost two centuries ago. As the first ready-to-wear emporium in America it focused on simple, pleasing designs that appealed to the majority of customers. It produced classics such as the button down polo shirt, Harris Tweed items and the sack suit before focusing on finely crafted accessories. Today, cufflinks feature anything from checkerboard patterns to vintage-inspired designs from the 1920s and come in precious materials including onyx, gold and mother of pearl. For a touch of Americana in the sometimes staid world of cuff adornment, it’s worth taking a closer look at this classic US gentleman’s brand. brooksbrothers.com


The World’s Finest Cufflinks Tel: 0121 236 7751 deakinandfrancis.co.uk




Ahead of their time Fresh from Geneva: tomorrow’s must-haves, today. Feast your eyes on our selection of tempting timepieces from the watch industry’s most exclusive event, Switzerland’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), held in Geneva every January, is one of the premier invite-only events in the watch industry’s calendar. It’s also the only week when you can see all of the Richemont brands’ new watches in one place. From Cartier to Jaeger-LeCoultre to Panerai, IWC and more, 16 exhibitors reveal 2014’s hottest new timepieces. Here’s our pick of some of the best.

- 48 -


- t h e b est o f s i h h -

Words – Hannah Silver

Audemars Piguet

First released in 2002, Audemars Piguet’s Concept models are always exciting. The Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon has revised the original movement with the new AP calibre 2930 and is one of the lightest models it has produced, thanks to a titanium case with both the push-pieces and movement incorporating ceramic. Nearly nine times harder than steel and virtually scratchproof, Audemars Piguet had to call in special millingcutter machines with diamond-tipped tools to cut the ceramic, with each bezel taking eight hours to make – a process more usually completed in 45 minutes for steel bezels. The result is a tough yet light model which, despite its 44mm size, is eminently wearable. audemarspiguet.com

- 49 -


- t h e b est o f s i h h -

Panerai

Combining two of Panerai’s most popular pieces – the Luminor 1950 and the Radiomir – is the new Panerai Luminor 1950 LeftHanded 3 Days. It’s specifically designed for left-handed wearers, with the crown and protector on the left of the case, but we predict the right-handed majority will still be clamouring for it, thanks to the attractive Luminor 1950-style case and the in-house, hand-wound P.3000 that powers it. panerai.com

- 50 -


IWC

After 2012’s Pilot watches and last year’s Ingenieur pieces, IWC presents the Aquatimer this year. IWC has revamped the collection, keeping the general aesthetic but adding in new technical details. The SafeDive system is probably the biggest change, featuring a new internal-external bezel system where the internal bezel is controlled by an external rotating bezel. This makes is easier for a diver to adjust the external bezel while wearing gloves, while keeping the internal bezel free from sea water. iwc.com

- 51 -


Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time is the first watch where it’s possible to adjust the second time zone to the minute, meaning travellers can set the second time zone for any country regardless of the time difference. The Dual-Wing system means the movement can be divided into two mechanisms – the first to display local time, the second for the second time zone – but each has its own independent source of energy so there is no conflict. Available in vintage-inspired rose gold, this piece will continue to make travellers’ lives easier – just as we’ve come to expect from the always-inventive Jaeger-LeCoultre. jaeger-lecoultre.com

- 52 -


- t h e b est o f s i h h -

Cartier

Cartier has long been regarded as a serious watchmaker, as its latest release, the Calibre de Cartier Diver, ably demonstrates. It’s a true ISO-certified dive watch – no small achievement in itself – but is still thin enough to be worn every day. It uses Cartier’s first in-house calibre, the 1904 MC, and also has barrels for improved consistency and a bi-directional winding system. More importantly, the appearance is still recognisably Cartier and will appeal to both divers and non-divers alike. cartier.com

- 53 -


76 Brook Street, Mayfair, London, W1K 5EE +44 (0) 207 518 2585 For details of our worldwide retailers, please visit

www.backesandstrauss.com



- t h e b est o f s i h h -

Baume & Mercier

Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Chronograph is a handsome, 1950s-inspired piece with a 7750 chronograph calibre and a dial featuring a sun satin finish. The devil is in the detail: it’s the small touches, such as a personalised rotor and bridges with côtes de Genève decoration, that help make this piece timeless. baume-et-mercier.co.uk

- 56 -


A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne always produces beautifully classic pieces, and the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase is no exception. The addition of the moon phase, integrated with the hour-minute sub-dial, adds a degree of complexity to what is otherwise a traditionally elegant piece. It’s incredibly accurate and can go 122.6 years without needing any adjustment, while its connection with the hour-wheel train means the moon phase wheel is constantly in motion, although so slowly you won’t even notice. alange-soehne.com

- 57 -


- t h e b est o f s i h h -

Piaget

Piaget always impresses with its delicate creations, but this year’s Limelight Blooming Rose is a significant step forwards. It’s a watch that presents a subtle face for the day, with four gem-set petals setting off the dial nicely, but come the evening, an invisible mechanism means the flowers can be turned to reveal four stunning diamond-paved petals. The rotating case is set with 256 brilliant-cut diamonds, making this one of the most imaginative and luxurious jewellery watches around. piaget.com

- 58 -


4N-MVT01/D01

BLACK EDITION 4N CONTEMPORARY HIGH WATCHMAKING HOUR & MINUTE JUMP www. 4-n.fr contact@4-n.fr 0033 6 08 78 88 90

4N-MVT01/D01 BLACK EDITION

Titanium black DLC Hour & minute jump 514 parts 78 jewels Power reserve 237 hours Cadence : 21 600 alt/hour fast hour correction push button Quick-change system of the strap


- t h e b est o f s i h h -

Parmigiani

The Parmigiani Bugatti Aerolithe Flyback Chronograph is the result of Parmigiani’s partnership with Bugatti. The watch pays tribute to the rare 1935 Bugatti Type 57 Aerolithe. This car was incredibly lightweight, thanks to a modern use of materials, although it was also – unhelpfully – highly flammable, which may explain why it disappeared shortly afterwards. The Aerolithe Flyback Chronograph, however, is a beauty and features an unusually muted design and Parmigiani Calibre PF 335 movement. parmigiani.ch

- 60 -


- sa lo n q p -

Roger Dubuis

While still a forward-looking brand, Roger Dubuis takes a step back in time this year for its SIHH contribution, the Hommage Tribute to Mr. Roger Dubuis. It’s inspired by a 2003 model that combined – as this latest release does – a flying tourbillon, large date and a power reserve display. Each model also features the RD 540 movement, which is made up of 293 hand-finished parts and requires an impressive 750 hours to make. In a nice touch, there are only 208 pieces available – a reference to Dubuis’ student number while he was at the Geneva Watchmaking School. rogerdubuis.com

- 61 -




A rare vintage Forget stocks and shares. The classic car marketplace is where to make a shrewd investment you can both show off and enjoy

- 64 -


- c lass i c ca rs -

Words – Kyle Fortune

- 65 -


- c lass i c ca rs -

mong the doom and economic gloom of recent years, the classic car marketplace has been booming. Values, particularly at the top end, are increasing daily, with the very best, most collectable cars costing tens of millions of pounds. It’s being driven – quite literally in most cases – by wealthy buyers who want to enjoy their investment, rather than placing their whole portfolio in the hands of stocks and shares funds. That’s the experience of Paul Michaels, chairman of Hexagon Classics, who deals in the very finest classic cars. “Knowledge is high up the list when buying classics,” says Michaels, his clients buying and enjoying their cars at internationally recognised events like Goodwood, England, with both the Festival and Revival having done wonders for the classic car marketplace. Cars with racing provenance and pedigree are unsurprisingly the most sought after. Ferrari is still the most coveted brand among collectors, and the most famous collectable Ferrari remains the 250 GTO. Just 36 were made, and the numbers associated with it are astronomical, with the last public sale of a 250 GTO seeing the gavel drop at $52m. That might seem preposterous, but as owner of classic Ferrari dealers Talacrest, John Collins, says: “When a Picasso costs $100m, then a Ferrari 250 GTO actually looks quite cheap.” Ferrari might dominate the classic car headlines, but the market is rich and varied. Any prestigious brand with sporting pedigree and race-winning cars is collectable, while at the

bottom of the market there are rich pickings Porsches have always been collectible, the for those with more modest budgets looking earliest 911s particularly so, with the 1973 2.7 for mainstream, once ordinary cars. They’re RS being among the most coveted. Any 911 with bought with exactly the same nostalgic an RS badge on it is worth a premium, feeling as those individuals with the WHEELS OF though other early competition cars FORTUNE: ability to drop millions on higher-end Ferrari 250 like 911 ST and 911 R are very rare, machines. Few brands transcend both GTO (top); with prices reflecting that. ends of the spectrum, but Porsche, Porsche 911 Porsche’s older models, 356s – Mercedes-Benz and BMW offer Carrera and particularly Speedsters – are rocketing 550 Spyder classics from a few thousand pounds (above; right) in price - as are any racing or rally cars. to many millions. A 550 Spyder – the car that James

- 66 -


- 67 -


- h -i sto c lass ry ri cepca eat rsi n- g -

Porsche, Mercedes-Benz and BMW offer classics from a few thousand pounds to many millions Dean was famously driving when killed – will cost you £2.5m, minimum, while 904/6 Carreras have always been favoured by collectors, a 90/6 Carrera recently selling for £1.3m. Like Porsche, Mercedes-Benz offers a wide scope for the classic car buyer or investor. Gullwings remain the firm’s most recognised classic, with the 300SL Roadster seeing prices take a steep trajectory upwards – the cost of entry now starting at around £1m. As with all classics, any unusual technical specifications, owners or unique bodywork or racing wins only increases rarity and prices, the SSK being a notable example of this. Ralph Lauren owns a Count Trossi specified 710 SSK – a car designed by Ferdinand Porsche (before he founded his own firm) – its beauty seeing it win best in show at both Pebble Beach Concours and Villa d’Este. Mercedes-Benz’s early grand prix cars are hugely desirable too, with the Juan Fangio-campaigned W196 R selling for £21m last summer.

- 68 -

STEP BACK IN TIME: Vintage Mercedes-Benz gems , such as the 300SL Roadster and Count Trossi specified 710 SSK (below) are superb investments



- c lass i c ca rs -

SPEED KINGS: Former racing cars, like the D-Type (above) and DB5 (right) are always collectable

The Aston Martin used in Goldf inger sold for £2.5m at auction Former racing cars are always collectable, and Britain’s Jaguar and Aston Martin have many to choose from.The most sought after classic Jaguar for serious collectors is the D-Type, a car that won Le Mans from 1955 through to ’57, though built in tiny numbers. They rarely reach the auction block, but when they do they command prices from £3m upwards.The D-Type spawned Jaguar’s most iconic model, the E-Type, a car that’s loved in classic car circles, but the sheer number that Jaguar built means only the rare

lightweights and race-winning machines reach the highest prices. A good, usable E-Type can be had for under £100,000. Aston Martins have always been a popular classic buy, the market pushing values high with the DB4 being particularly strong at the moment. Prices have been climbing steeply recently, the best starting at around £300,000, rarities like Zagato bodied GTs in the millions and a oneoff Bertone bodied DB4 GT Coupe selling for £3.2m last summer. The DB4’s successor,

- 70 -

the DB5 has always been popular too – the car used in the James Bond film Goldfinger selling for £2.5m at auction. Italy’s other super and sports cars marques look relatively good value compared to the rest of the market. Classic Maseratis – with the exception of its early racing cars – are very affordable. Lamborghini has no real race history and that seems to be reflected in prices. The Miura is the most coveted Lamborghini, though most are still under the £1m limit.


info@ecuriebertelli.com www.ecuriebertelli.com

Tel: +44 (0)1234 240024 Fax: +44 (0)1234 240054

In 1992 I sold my first pre-1940 Aston Martin for £42,500. If this same car was for sale today I would ask £200,000 for it. Pre-1940 Aston Martin values have increased over the past 22 years at a steady rate out performing many other investments. This has allowed the lucky owners to maintain and improve their motorcars, enjoy using them and reap the benefits of an appreciating asset should they wish to do so. Ecurie Bertelli Ltd. always has a stock of pre-1940 Aston Martins for sale, and we are able to maintain them to the highest standards, using parts manufactured by ourselves from original works engineering drawings. 1934 1.5 litre MK11 short chassis

1935 1 ½ litre MKII short chassis 2 seater

Fresh restoration to the highest standards. This MK11 drives like a new car. Steel crank and rod engine by Archers of Dunmow, chassis work by Ecurie Bertelli Ltd. Stripped in the 1950’s by the previous owner and stored for 50 years by the present retired garage owner, who rescued it and eventually undertool the restoration. Very few MK11s have been restored to this standard. 50 miles since completion. Genuinely a ‘must be seen’ car, it really is exceptional in every detail. Price £225,000

One of only 2 cars built to this specification by the factory with 2 seat body by E. Bertelli Ltd. This car went to the USA in the 1950’s and has been re-painted and re-upholstered, but is otherwise as it left the UK. It remained in the same ownership until very recently and is therefore extremely original and correct in every respect. Ecurie Bertelli has rebuilt the engine using a new cylinder block fitted with new steel crankshaft and con rods to racing specification and it has been dyno tested to 85 bhp, so this very rare 2 seater Bertelli Aston goes as well as it looks. Rare and beautiful this 2 seater Aston would hold its own in any concours in the world. Price £275,000

Contact Andy Bell for further details of these two cars and others in our current inventory info@ecuriebertelli.com


- c lass i c ca rs -

Lamborghini’s Countach is reaching new levels as some of those who grew up lusting after it are now in a position to buy. Indeed, there’s a huge trend towards newer ‘modern classics’, with buyers snapping up notable and exceptional examples of recent cars. That’s true of the Countach, as well as cars like BMW’s E30 M3 – values of which have gone ballistic of late. It’s also the case with Ferrari’s ‘hypercars’, the 288 GTO, F40, F50 and Enzo also seeing their prices strengthen. Porsche’s 959 and Carrera GT are also on the up, while cars like the Bugatti Veyron and super-limited build number cars like Lamborghini’s Reventon and anything wearing the Pagani badge are bona-fide investments as future classics. With the £1m+ hypercars now relatively commonplace and seen as blue chip investments

LIVing THE DREAM: Miura, Countach and Reventon (clockwise from here), courtesy of Lamborghini

you can enjoy, it’s hardly surprising the smart money is going on older, rarer machines with the market driven by American, European and increasingly Chinese money. China is a marketplace where saloons are more coveted than sports cars, so expect prices of vintage Rolls-Royces and Bentleys to grow as that market matures. One thing that is certain is that buying a classic is an enjoyable pursuit and, unlike the

- 72 -

previous booms which saw speculators buy in with loans, the market today is being driven by people buying for enjoyment first and investment potential as a secondary consideration. If you’ve got the money, there are few better places to presently put it. And remember: no stock portfolio will ever captivate your senses like the sound of a classic engine firing up and the thrill it gives as you drive it down the road or around a track.


- c lass i c ca rs -

Words – Scott Manson

Hooked on classics Where to buy your dream vintage car

E-Type UK

Ecurie Bertelli

Spydercars

When it comes to enduring British classic cars, there are few to beat the E-Type Jaguar. Manufactured between 1961 and 1974 and described by Enzo Ferrari – who knew a thing or two about car design – as “the most beautiful car ever made”, its combination of good looks, high performance and competitive pricing established the marque as an icon of 1960s motoring. More than 70,000 E-Types were sold and top condition E-Types can still sell for up to £200,000 today. If you’re looking for a pulse-racing car which will still prove a good investment, speak to E-Type UK. Based in the heart of the Kent countryside, the company specialises in the restoration and supply of Jaguar E-Type cars to discerning drivers worldwide. Increasingly, these come from the US, which means they have been stored in an environment less conducive to rust. The company currently has a handsome crop of beautiful vehicles ready for the right buyer.

Specialising in pre-1940 Aston Martins – specifically the Bertelli 1½ litre and Sutherland 2 litre cars – this company is the undisputed world specialist in this area. With 35 years experience working on Aston Martins, taking care of side-valve to Speed models and offering a simple service to full restoration – even previously unloved ‘barn cars’ don’t faze them – Ecurie Bertelli’s skilled mechanics work their automotive magic on every model. Additionally, the brand stocks over £250,000 of new spare parts – many of them machined from original works drawings – and all cars can be tested and inspected at their Buckinghamshire showroom. Interestingly, Nick Mason of rock band Pink Floyd is one of the company’s founders. A true petrolhead, Nick recognised that the mechanics working on his Aston Martin were some of the best in the world and decided he had to get to get involved. The result is a company that has gone from strength to strength.

This 30-year-old business is built on love – love for the classic lines of Lotus cars. Run by engineer-turned-MD Sean Reeve, who tells us that his affection for the classic marque is “in the blood”, thanks to his father and grandfather who between them owned motors such as the Mk1 Lotus Cortina, the Elan +2 and many more. The company can make cars to order, even taking ‘scrap’ shells and fitting modern engines, 5-speed gearboxes, new brake discs and calipers and much more. Such is the bespoke nature of the process that Spydercars can even allow the customer to specify the dashboard layout, leather trim options and so on. The finished product is a reliable classic Lotus with modern benefits that few classic cars can offer Current cars for sale of note include a beautiful Lotus Elan+2 with a full spyder Zetec conversion – perfect for a summer of happy motoring.

etypeuk.com

ecuriebertelli.com

- 73 -

spydercars.co.uk


Natural Phenomenon

Zbären Kreativküchen AG Bahnhofstrasse 26 . CH-3777 Saanenmöser . Telephone +41 33 744 33 77 design@zbaeren.ch . www.zbaeren.ch Official Dealer

Saanenmöser . Gstaad . Lenk

Official Dealer


- d es i g n t r en d s -

Words - Hannah Silver

hip homes Interiors are going back to basics in 2014 – in the most luxurious and stylish way possible, naturally

- 75 -


- d es i g n t r en d s-

he start of the year sees fashionable homeowners bidding goodbye to the twee pastels, heavy furniture and glossy home accessories that were the major design trends of last year. 2014 is all about getting back to basics and embracing solid, natural materials. Homes won’t look severe but there will be a touch of the stark in the abundance of metallic furniture, solid wooden classics and woven straw accessories that hark back to a simpler time, albeit with products made using the most cutting-edge technology.

There’s no need to go overboard either, as many designers are finding it just as effective to simply add accents of striking materials to their pieces. Take the metallic trend. Homes, public spaces and slick dining rooms may have embraced industrial chic for some time, but the trend is now more subtle and doesn’t just comprise the ubiquitous stainless steel approach. Gold, copper and brass are all increasing in popularity and being used to decorate smaller household basics such as sinks and desks.

- 76 -

“2014 is all about embracing solid, natural materials”


Barbara Genda City dwellers take note – interior designer Barbara Genda specialises in custom-made interiors and has created bespoke solutions for big, small or simply awkward spaces. Everyone from celebrities to members of the Qatari royal family have engaged her services, which include consulting, creating and developing projects whose only limits are your imagination.

barbara-genda.com

Amy Somerville With all products made-to-order in the UK, Amy Somerville creates exclusive furniture and rugs using traditional methods and the highest quality materials. This drinks cabinet in American black walnut sits perched on solid bronze legs – and is sure to add a classy retro touch to cocktail hour.

amysomerville.com

It’s not just metal that’s undergone a makeover: wood, too, has gone luxe. Think you couldn’t get much more straightforward than wood? Think again. Designers are going all out to prove their materials are more authentic than ever before. Savvy customers now not only expect to know the origin of their wooden furniture but also the timeline of how it’s matured and who has cultivated it over the years. This is good news for design fans as the new wooden furniture is more luxurious than ever, featuring some truly

impressive craftsmanship that results in pieces that should last a lifetime. Elsewhere, expect to see a rise in accessories made from straw, string and ceramics. Vintageinspired pieces, too, will remain popular. Used in moderation, they can add an ironic nod to an otherwise cutting-edge contemporary space. These then, are the trends that will define the year ahead. Read on to discover the companies that can help to make your new interior dreams a reality…

- 77 -


Chaplins Chaplins has a huge selection of contemporary furniture available at its impressive London store. The office equipment, too, is truly striking. For proof, look no further than beautiful and unique pieces such as this innovative desk cut from thick-tempered, transparent and ultra-light glass plates.

chaplins.co.uk

- 78 -


- d es i g n t r en d s -

The Aston Martin Collection Designed by renowned silversmith Grant Macdonald, the Aston Martin Collection is made up of elegant pieces crafted in silver, gold and carbon fibre. From luxury picnic hampers to champagne coolers and graceful tableware, there’s something to make every meal a sophisticated affair.

luxdeco.com

VitrA Metallic touches are big news in the interior design world at the moment, but instead of a subtle edge, why not make it a focal point? These metallic sinks from VitrA consistently win product design awards, thanks to the brand’s physical vapour deposition coating. The result? Pieces that are not just highly durable, but also pleasingly glossy.

vitra.co.uk

- 79 -


- d es i g n t r en d s -

ZbAren

Family-run business Zbären started off as a carpentry workshop in a small Swiss village before it began to manufacture parts for exclusive kitchens three decades ago. A specialisation in custom-built production means craftsmanship is of an impressively high standard and all kitchens are completely unique. If you can imagine it, they can create it.

zbaeren.ch

Beardmore Fashion and accessories supremo Tom Ford is a fan of these stylish pieces of door furniture. Little wonder as, since 1860, Beardmore has been using precision engineering, traditional casting and handfinishing to make those finishing home design touches – including door handles, cabinet furniture and general hardware – really count.

beardmore.co.uk

- 80 -


Discover The Seven Most Expensive Mistakes London Property Buyers Make And How To Avoid Them Dramatically improve your chances of securing the perfect central London home on the best terms possible.

T

he opaque and fragmented nature of the central London property market means there are seven mistakes you will make in the search for a home – mistakes which can cause you to pay far too much for an average property while being unaware of far better opportunities literally just around the corner. The good news is that you can easily avoid these mistakes IF you know the tested strategies that grant access to the most prestigious properties, and those strategies are exactly what you discover in my exclusive guide: The Seven Most Expensive Mistakes London Property Buyers Make and How to Avoid Them. Whether you’re searching for a family house in Chelsea or a luxury penthouse in Knightsbridge, with this unique guide you effortlessly avoid the expensive mistakes, stress and frustration experienced by most buyers. In short, the report is your key to the exclusive homes the average buyer never sees — homes in high demand due to the intense

competition for truly prestigious properties on the London market. In the guide you will discover: • How you can have first refusal on London’s finest properties • Why relying on websites will lead to failure and frustration • The single most expensive mistake London property buyers make • How to source London’s most exclusive off-market properties • How to have your offer accepted even when it’s not the highest • 9 negotiation techniques to ensure you make an astute purchase • Further strategies to ensure you acquire your ideal home in London on the best terms possible.

and families. I have appeared on Bloomberg Television and have featured in numerous publications including The Financial Times, The Daily Telegraph and MoneyWeek, so the information is of the highest quality.

Please note that these strategies have been tested and refined by me over the last thirteen years of acquiring property for some of the world’s wealthiest individuals

To request your complimentary copy of the guide, email jm@mercuryhomesearch.com quoting Tempus or call +44 (0) 800 389 4280 and I will have your copy of the guide dispatched immediately.

Jeremy McGivern, London’s Leading Property Expert.


- d es i g n t r en d s -

Titchmarsh & Goodwin Titchmarsh & Goodwin’s luxury wooden furniture has been given the royal seal of approval by Prince Charles, who is patron to the company’s dedicated woodland replantation programme, the Woodland Heritage. It has just opened a three-floor flagship showroom in Chelsea, offering magnificent oak panelling and beautiful intricate marquetry panels, as well as more classic pieces that will more than last a lifetime.

titchmarsh-goodwin.com

- 82 -


TEFAF Maastricht One of the more enjoyable ways to personalise your home is by visiting art fairs – a great way of discovering trends before they become widely known. The European Fine Art Foundation (TEFAF), held in Maastricht in March, offers a great range of beautiful 20th-century pieces. A highlight is this black walnut cabinet from 1955. There’s an avant-garde touch in the form of raw, geometric gold-leafed shapes in iron.

tefaf.com

De Lamerie De Lamerie is a purveyor of beautiful fine china, crystal and silver tableware. While all the classic 18th-century designs are crafted and decorated by hand, the brand’s bespoke dinner services are particularly popular. Add a family crest or logo – which will be incised in gilded decoration – to bring a distinguished touch to dinner.

delamerie.com

- 83 -


- d es i g n t r en d s -

SieMatic Luxury German kitchen manufacturer SieMatic has been producing cutting edge design since it launched the first handleless kitchen in the 1960s. Its latest kitchens eschew the traditional white colourway and are instead in the current must-have neutral – grey. If you’re not in the market for a new kitchen, look at the company’s accessories – small pieces such as intersecting aluminium panels to be used in drawers can completely transform the appearance of kitchen storage systems.

siematic.co.uk

- 84 -


Duxiana Arguably the most important part of your home, beds are a sanctuary and should be treated as such. Duxiana gives beds the respect they deserve, and its latest offering, DUX 818, is the result of 85 years of research. It’s got nearly four times as many springs as an ordinary bed, deep suspension, lumbar support and the option of making different sections of the bed softer or firmer. So comfortable, in fact, that getting up in the morning could prove near-impossible.

duxiana.co.uk

Naken Interiors Naken Interiors is an online interior design boutique that specialises in beautifully opulent accessories such as this stainless steel chandelier. The multifaceted design means the light bounces from it to fabulous effect, transforming a room with the flick of a switch.

naken.co.uk - 85 -



Immediate aesthetically pleasing results following treatment with biocompatible hair implants.


- 88 -


- h o ro lo g i ca l h ero es -

10 Words – Hannah Silver

t h e

g r e a t e s t l i v i n g w a t c h m a k e r s The craftsmen’s craftsmen revealed – a league of extraordinary gentlemen in the painstakingly precise field of haute horology Every list is open to argument and conjecture – and nowhere is this more apparent than in the rarified realm of high-end contemporary watchmaking. As a profession, it requires impeccable craftsmanship, high technological understanding and the foresight to futureproof products. Indeed, it’s astonishing that an industry that has been around for hundreds of years not only has the capacity to still surprise us, but also to change our concept of what’s possible. In no particular order, here is our hotly contested list of the ten most important contemporary watchmakers. Let the great horological debate begin…


2

1 Greubel Forsey

Francois-Paul Journe

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey worked together for nearly 20 years before founding their eponymous brand. From the beginning, they chose to specialise in that most complex of mechanisms – the tourbillon. It was the Double Tourbillon 30° that showed Greubel Forsey was a serious player in the watch world, as it featured two tourbillons, one rotating inside the other. The company’s second invention, the devastatingly accurate Quadruple Tourbillon, went further: it had four asynchronous tourbillons working independently of each other. Greubel Forsey’s third release uses one ultra-light, inclined tourbillon cage to master positional errors. The relatively small number of watches they produce a year ensures exclusivity. greubelforsey.com

François-Paul Journe’s incredibly technical masterpieces comprise a roll call of horological highlights – from the pocket watch he built in 1983, complete with in-house tourbillon, to a wristwatch with the movement entirely produced in solid gold and the complex musical Sonnerie Souveraine. He’s widely admired for designing new movements and collectors snap up the 800 or so watches he produces every year. fpjourne.com

- 90 -


- h o ro lo g i ca l h ero es -

4 3 Christophe Claret

Roger W Smith

The watchmaker’s watchmaker, Christophe Claret developed highly complicated movements for other brands before setting up on his own. After graduating from the Geneva Watchmaking School, he spent time with Roger Dubuis, where he honed his skills by focusing on perpetual calendar watches. He produces fewer than 100 watches a year, but every piece is perfection. Highlights include the first musical wristwatch to play two tunes and chime in passing and on demand, as well as the DualTow, a fiendishly complicated system featuring a single-pusher planetary chronograph and other patented inventions. christopheclaret.com

The only watchmaker ever to serve as an apprentice to the late, great George Daniels was always going to be something special. Roger W Smith lives and breathes his craft, producing only 10 watches a year but putting his all into every tiny part. He’s a proud British watchmaker and produced the first watch to be made in its entirety in Great Britain, as well as the only, to date, flying tourbillon completely designed and made in the UK. Roger Smith’s collaboration with George Daniels on the co-axial escapement – since adapted by Omega – remains one of the highlights of British watchmaking. rwsmithwatches.com

- 91 -


65 - h o ro lo g i ca l h ero es -

jerome deWitt

Franc Vila

Jérôme DeWitt is a very modern watchmaker. Refreshingly open-minded when it comes to new designs, he’s produced his fair share of patents but also loves to focus on more unusual creations. His Academia Tourbillon Differentiel won prizes for innovation, thanks to a patented differential system. His first concept watch – the WX-1 – was more of an objet d’art with a fearlessly futuristic design that incorporated a vertical flying tourbillon. Always surprising and sometimes controversial, DeWitt is indisputably one of the most exciting watchmakers working today. dewitt.ch

Franc Vila’s background in biochemistry lends his watches an edge. A keen watch collector himself, he takes joy in making watches for collectors, focusing only on the best – and most modern – materials. His skeletonised tourbillon uses lightnium alloy, originally developed for aircraft, which is then coloured so it resembles aluminium. His SuperLigero tourbillon is unashamedly contemporary, using a complex wheel differential system to control movement precisely. francvila.com

- 92 -


BAROS MALDIVES THE ESSENCE OF THE MALDIVES Baros Maldives has been voted as a winner in three Top Hotel categories in the presentation of Trip Advisor Travelers’ Choice Awards Pure,forhassle-free luxury in lush, natural surroundings, that’s the essence of Baros Maldives. It’s a small to top hotels 2014.

tropical island ringed by a reef vibrant with marine life and encircled by a golden beach, with 45 thatched

villas nestled among swaying palms20and 25Trip water villaslistpoised over a translucent lagoon. Fiverated Water have The resort has been acknowledged as Number in the Advisor of the World’s Top Hotels, as well being theVillas second to premium accommodation & named Pool quoted water villa each with a private swimming top hotelbeen in theconverted Maldives and the sixth out of all hotels in Asia. The citation a guest comment: “We spent the wholepool weekset just marvelling at an theexpanded natural beauty. It was possible to believe or mattered. A real escape.” In addition, Baros into timber veranda deck abovethat thenowhere lagoon, else withexisted loungers for sunbathing and enjoying the view. Maldives has been acclaimed as the seventh Top Hotel for Romance in the World, being number one in Maldives and second in timber and sandstone, each villa has a king sizeAwards bed and décor elegance, withinen-suite Asia. ThisCreated follows from the recent acclaim of Baros Maldives by the World Travel as the MostofRomantic Resort the World.

bathroom in a garden courtyard or with a panoramic lagoon view. Eleven have their own beachside plunge pool.

In the Travelers’ Choice recommendation of Asia’s Top Luxury Hotels, Baros Maldives placed eleventh, as well as being third out This idyllic island retreat is blessed with an eco-friendly dive centre, blissful spa, three gourmet restaurants, of all the luxury hotels in the Maldives. The Travelers’ Choice awards are determined by assessing comments from guests who have palm grove bar and areviews, cocktail lounge,and and discreetThese staffannual on hand to meet every stayed atathe hotel and provided feedback opinions. awards reflect “the demand. best of the best” for service, quality, and customer satisfaction. These awards are the latest recognising Baros Maldives as a world resort. Baros Maldives, Baros Maldives is an award-winning resort exclusive to resident guests, just 25top minutes by speedboat from a legend since it was established in 1973, is an independent, luxury Maldivian-owned and run resort in the Indian Ocean just Male’ International Airport. No small children, no motorised vehicles, no annoying noises disrupt the serene 25 minutes by speedboat from the Maldives international airport. It consists of 75 private beach and overwater villas, some with tranquillity of this pure tropical paradise. individual swimming pools; the exclusive Baros Residence; three gourmet-class restaurants, cocktail and palm grove bars; a vibrant house reef exclusive to the island; a spa and a gym in lush tropical gardens.

Email: info@baros.com Call: +960 664 26 72 Visit: www.baros.com



- h o ro lo g i ca l h ero es -

7

Peter Speake-Marin

Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei

This British-born watchmaker and former student at both Hackney Technical College in London and WOSTEP, the renowned Swiss watchmaking school, started his career restoring fine watches for Somlo Antiques. This was followed by a spell in Switzerland developing high complications for Renaud & Papi before he turned his attention to launching his own independent atelier in 2000. Since then, Peter has produced around 400 watches a year, designing his own movements, while also collaborating on notable projects such as Harry Winston’s Excenter Tourbillon, MB&F’s Horological Machine No 1 and two models for Maîtres du Temps. speake-marin.com

This talented duo created the unique Urwerk brand in 1995, following a first meeting that revealed they shared a passion for futuristic, high-concept watches. Baumgartner was born into a Swiss watchmaking family, proving to be the perfect foil for Frei and his graphic design background. Their latest piece, the UR-210Y, indicates time through a satellite complication display, while past highlights have included the first mechanical timepiece with integrated intelligence and winding systems regulated by miniature compressed air turbines. urwerk.com

- 95 -


9 10

- h o ro lo g i ca l h ero es -

Franck Muller

Roger Dubuis

A favourite of the celebrity set, it’s easy to forget that, first and foremost, Franck Muller’s pieces are true technical masterpieces. The company has grown a great deal since its conception 20 years ago, thanks to both Muller’s watchmaking skills and his business acumen. Not one for resting, Muller has produced new World Premieres every year since 1986, all of which feature high complications and often avant-garde design. For proof of the latter, look no further than his critic-baiting Crazy Hours timepiece. franckmuller.com

Roger Dubuis worked for Patek Philippe before setting out on his own. A sophisticated designer capable of powerful aesthetics, he has a whimsical style that results in beautiful, unusual pieces. All his collections are inspired by four worlds – Player, Warrior, Venturer and Diva – so it’s hard to pigeonhole a ‘typical’ Dubuis piece. The latest collection, Hommage, is in honour of Dubuis himself and combines classic readability with technological accomplishment and, crucially, provides the owner with a watch that will always be chic. rogerdubuis.com

- 96 -




- j er m y n st r eet -

Words – Scott Manson

&

Heritage Jermyn Street may be resolutely old-school, but it remains a sartorial force to be reckoned with. It’s the London destination to which the well-heeled gent in the know heads for his exquisite apparel

When it comes to traditional attire for the London gentleman, nowhere does it better than Jermyn Street. Of course, Bond Street has its share of big-hitter brands and Dover Street is the place to go for those seeking the sartorial cutting edge, but for true old-school cool, those in the know seek out the brands located on this one-way street in St James’s. The area is best known for makers of shirts and other items of gentleman’s apparel, such as hats, shoes, shaving brushes and colognes, as well as more esoteric offerings from the likes of Paxton & Whitfield (cheeses) and Davidoff, regarded as London’s finest cigar store. Visitors should also look out for the statue of dandy Beau Brummell at the junction with the Piccadilly Arcade. Credited with introducing – and establishing as fashion – the modern men’s suit, this immaculately dressed figure is the perfect motif for a street steeped in style.

- 99 -

style


- j er m y n st r eet -

Where to shop on Jermyn Street

Turnbull & Asser

This shirtmaker counts no less than Sean Connery, Bruce Willis, Eric Clapton, Prince Charles and David Hockney among its client list. Famous for its bold colours and stripes, all of its clothes are made in Britain, with its cashmere knitwear woven in Scotland and the silk from its ties woven in Suffolk. Although best known for its made-to-measure shirts, excellent off-the-peg options are also available to visitors. turnbullandasser.co.uk

- 100 -


Emmett

If there’s a modern face of Jermyn Street’s shirtmaking, then Nash Masood, creative director at Emmett is surely it. Sharp, cool and fashionable – just like the shirts he creates – Nash doesn’t just take your measurements: he also gets a measure of you as a man. How you hold yourself, what you do for a living – all of these small details help to inform his ultimate style, cut and detail recommendations. Book a visit to his subterranean fitting room and prepare for a very enjoyable hour of bespoke planning. emmettlondon.com

Budd

Since 1910, this venerable shirt maker has been measuring, cutting and stitching for some of London’s most notable residents. All of its shirts are hand-made in Britain – many of them from a bespoke workshop in neighbouring Piccadilly Arcade – and the store stocks styles for every occasion. Budd also offers a great collection of nightwear, plus accessories such as bow ties, scarves, gloves and pocket squares. buddshirts.co.uk

Hilditch & Key

With its huge choice of fabrics, real mother of pearl buttons and expert measurement and tailoring, it’s little wonder that this centuryold shirt maker is regarded as one of the best in the business. The company uses single needle seaming with a small stitch length to avoid seam puckering and the two piece collars – arguably the most important aspect of a shirt – are all turned by hand and have removable stiffeners. Oh, and fashion guru Karl Lagerfeld – famous for his high collared white shirts – cites the brand as his shirt maker of choice. hilditchandkey.co.uk

- 101-


HATTERS SINCE 1898

73 JERMYN STREET LONDON

252 RUE DE RIVOLI PARIS

+44 (0) 207 930 2329

+33 (0) 214 260 3609

www.bates-hats.com


- j er m y n st r eet -

Barbour

Once the preserve of shooting parties and motorbike enthusiasts, Barbour has enjoyed a successful rebrand in recent years. This has seen the brand’s designers take the iconic waxed jacket, slim it down and make it more colourful than ever. This season’s highlights include the sharp Steve McQueen range and a host of new colour combinations for its quilted jackets. You’ll find the store on the corner of Jermyn Street and Piccadilly. barbour.com

Floris

At 230 years old, Floris is one of the grand old men of Jermyn Street. Beau Brummell, Mary Shelley and Oscar Wilde were all faithful customers of this luxury scent maker, while Eva Peron favoured No. 127, specifically, and Ian Fleming only bought No. 89. For the record, the Tempus team favours the clean citrus notes of Spencer Hart Palm Springs. Like a Harry Potter-style potion shop for grown-ups. florislondon.com

- 103 -


- j er m y n st r eet -

Emma Willis

This classic English shirtmaker has its base on Jermyn Street and its factory in a Gloucester townhouse. Named by GQ magazine as its shirtmaker of choice, it also offers everything from handmade ties and dressing gowns to pocket squares and uniquely crafted socks. With no minimum order, it’s worth trying a customised shirt in Swiss or Italian cotton. The brand are confident that the perfect fit will ensure you’ll be back to order more. emmawillis.com

Bates

This world-famous hatter has had a presence in Jermyn Street since 1898. Formerly a tiny, dusty cupboard of a shop that, despite its international fame, was once threatened with closure, Bates has since reemerged bigger and stronger than ever. They’ve measured the noble craniums of everyone from Winston Churchill to David Bowie and offer trilbies and fedoras of the highest quality – many of them in hard-to-source 100% beaver felt – as well as topper, bowlers, tweed hats and caps, plus a huge range of summer hats. An absolute gem of a store. bates-hats.co.uk

Sunspel

Bond fans should make a beeline for this store, as Sunspel’s designers were responsible for the classic blue Riviera polo shirts that Daniel Craig wore in Casino Royale. Elsewhere, visitors to this relatively new Jermyn Street arrival can get up close and personal with the brand’s fine knitwear, underwear, trousers and shorts. sunspel.com

- 104 -


PERSONALLY TAILORED SUITS CREATED FOR YOU At Jasper Littman we specialise in one thing only - bespoke and semibespoke suits measured, fitted and delivered by our visiting tailors. Using the finest English fabrics, our bespoke suits are created exclusively in England. Our tailors visit at a location convenient to you, office or home, and have over 10 years of Savile Row experience.

Our tailors can give you the uninterrupted attention and time, so often short in retail environments, to find out what the suit is for, what will suit you and any special requirements you may have. If you would like to find out more about how our suits are made visit our website at www.jasperlittman.co.uk To book an appointment please call this number (24 hours): 08456 121 220

jasperlittman.co.uk 08456 121220


- M oto r i n g -

Words – Kyle Fortune

raging bull The great Gallardo’s successor is a most desirable beast Price

£150,000 approx (TBC)

Performance

0-62mph (0-100km/h) 3.2 seconds

Top speed 202+mph

Engine

5.2-litre V10 petrol 610hp

Transmission

seven-speed automatic, four-wheel drive

Construction

aluminium/carbon fibre

Many will lament the passing of the Lamborghini Gallardo. After 10 years and many derivations, Lamborghini’s ‘entry-level’ model will be no more. With over 14,000 cars sold, Lamborghini can be happy while customers will be sated by its replacement – the Huracán LP 610-4. Following Lamborghini tradition, the Huracán bit refers to a legendary fighting bull, while the LP-610-4 refers to the engine position, power and drive. That’s Longitudinal Posterior, 610hp and four-wheel drive. The engine itself is a 5.2-litre V10, with the 610hp and that four-wheel drive system, plus a seven-speed twin-clutch automatic transmission, pushing the Huracán LP 610-4 to reach the benchmark 62mph speed in just 3.2 seconds, double that in just 9.9 seconds and on to a top speed in excess of 202mph. When that engine’s not needed for chasing horizons at breakneck speed, the stop-start system shuts it down, allowing the Huracán a CO2 figure of 290g/km and 22mpg on the official combined consumption cycle. Its low

- 106 -

1,422kg mass helps here, though owners are more likely to be excited by the carbon/aluminium structure’s effect on the Huracán’s agility, which promises to be sensational. Carbon ceramic brakes are standard, while a steering-wheel mounted switch allows the driver to select three different driving modes of Strada, Sport and Corsa, the intensity rising with each choice. Lamborghini will lighten your wallet still further with more customisable option choices, including Dynamic Steering and a magnetic damping system. Being a Lamborghini, the looks are in the otherworldly league inside and out, with the Huracán LP 610-4 taking elements of its bigger Aventador relation’s style and making it its own – the all-LED lighting being a first for the small Lamborghini, too.The interior uses a TFT screen for its instrumentation, while every surface is hand-finished in leather and Alcantara. Deliveries start in spring this year – and if you’ve not got your name down already, be prepared for a lengthy wait…



Ferrari

458 Italia / 458 Spider Hard facts: +11 HP, +26 Nm, -14 Kg

Enhance your car’s performance with an Akrapovič exhaust system. More horsepower, more torque, reduced weight. And that unmistakable Akrapovič sound. Akrapovič exhaust systems are also available for performance models from the following brands - Abarth, Audi, BMW, Chevrolet, Ferrari, Ford, Lamborghini, Mercedes-Benz AMG, MINI, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Porsche, Renault and VW. Akrapovič systems are available in titanium and stainless steel with exquisite carbon fibre or titanium tailpipes. On many models, you can add a Wireless Kit for adjustable sound.

T: 0845 68 09 342 | info@peron-automotive.co.uk | www.peron-automotive.co.uk

www.akrapovic.com


- T R AV EL -

Words – Scott Manson and Jay Boisvert

history

r e p e at i n g

1

Three of the UK’s best boltholes with a foot in the past, all offering present-day luxury to tempt you back for future escapes

2

The best hotels have a fascinating history, as this trio of top venues ably demonstrate. From the former faded grandeur of The Grand Hotel in Brighton, now reinvented for the 21st century, to the one-time political hot potato that is now London’s Marriott County Hall and the Montcalm, built on the site of the capital’s oldest brewery, guests will find fascination and intrigue at every turn.

- 109 -

3


- T R AV EL -

1

The Grand, Brighton The Grand Hotel, Brighton is steeped in history. Perched on the famous seafront, the iconic building was constructed in 1864 to cater for the upper classes visiting the fashionable seaside resort. In its original incarnation, The Grand was the toast of Victorian Brighton – it had the first lifts installed outside London – and a recent £6m facelift has re-established it as the city’s premier hotel for the 21st century. The refurbishment extended to the rejuvenation of all 201 bedrooms and the conference rooms, plus the addition of new restaurant GB1 – which offers unrivalled views of the sea – and a wellbeing spa. With a menu centred around seafood caught just a few miles away in nearby Shoreham, diners can select their food from a huge spread at the crustacea bar or from the menu, which includes dishes like korma-marinated, locally caught monkfish, seared scallops with Stornaway black pudding,cauliflower purée, quail eggs and bacon, carved rack of lamb and piri piri sea bass, which I can heartily recommend. It’s all a far cry from the classy but fusty image that this hotel was once known for. After dinner we considered hitting the town to enjoy Brighton’s celebrated nightlife but, frankly, when there’s the opulence of the hotel’s Victoria lounge and bar calling you – all rich furnishings and plush décor – then indulging in a housespeciality cocktail made by one of the skilled mixologists felt like a far more appealing option. All the bedrooms have been completely redecorated – and it’s definitely worth getting one with a sea view. This means that, come summer, you wake up with all the action of Brighton beach happening right in front of you – like your own widescreen film – while in the winter you can watch the English Channel crashing onto the pebbles below and give silent thanks for the excellent window insulation.

The Feature Deluxe Sea View Rooms redefine The Grand’s style, offering cool features such as roll top bathtubs with sea views, walk-in showers and ESPA toiletries.The daddy of them all, though, is the stunning King Suite, which is spread over two floors and provides guests with one of the best views in the city. In a town originally known for city dwellers visiting to ‘take the waters’, it was fitting that we finished our trip with a visit to the hotel’s elegant day spa. It offers an extensive treatment menu, using the finest ESPA and Carita skincare products, across eight treatment rooms,

- 110 -

including a couples suite. A happy few hours were spent enjoying the latest therapies designed to soothe and invigorate the mind and body, with the detoxifying crystal steam room and aromatherapy sauna gently leaving us floating on a cloud of heavenly bliss. This is the perfect time of year to visit Brighton – before the summer’s tourist hordes descend – and the revitalised Grand Hotel is the ideal destination for a coastal break with the cool factor. devere-hotels.co.uk


The ideal destination for a coastal break with the cool factor

- 111-


Tradition, tailored for your lifestyle. Take a journey and discover our Land Rover creative heritage. Work with the Icon team to form individuality and engineering excellence for the country, track, city or Sahara. Our pleasure is to advise and help our clients enjoy Iconic Defender editions driven by supercharged

www.defendericon.com icon@neneoverland.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1733 380687 25 years – since 1988

petrol V8s, ďŹ nely tuned diesels, all with manual, or paddle shift automatic.

Take the next step, visit www.defendericon.com

RS edition | Heritage LE | Sport Wagon | Falcon soft back | Snow LE | Retro Classic

Follow us on: www.defendericon.com icon@neneoverland.co.uk T: 01733 380687

NE116/09/13

Overseas client liaison and export since 1988, our speciality.


- t r av el -

2

Montcalm, London In terms of tests to a budding relationship, a seethrough screen between the bedroom and the bathroom in a hotel bedroom is right up there. Thankfully, this is the only chewy moment I encounter during a stay at London’s fabulous Montcalm hotel. With its enviable location in the heart of The City, just a stone’s throw from Liverpool Street station, this five star property offers luxurious suites, deluxe studios and club rooms all situated in a handsome historic building From the minute you enter, the service is impeccable. There’s the welcome opening touch that is a nice warm towel to cleanse yourself of the London fumes. The reception, too, has a relaxed, almost regal, feel to it – surprising when you consider that the building was originally the site of Whitbread & Co, Britain’s first massproduction brewery. Built in 1750, it brewed its last beer on this site in 1976, and that sense of quirky London history is evident, albeit subtly, throughout. With its big airy public spaces, clubby dining room and traditional pub – The Jugged Hare – it appeals equally to late-working (or partying) City types looking for a bed for

the night, and travellers seeking a chunk of old England. It’s the brilliant balance between the traditional and the contemporary that makes the Montcalm a delight. Oh, and full marks for the respite of the Club Lounge (complimentary for those staying in club room or higher) – a relaxed environment where you can enjoy wine and snacks on the house. The perfect way to start an evening of exploring the fair city of London. montcalm.co.uk

- 113 -

AN OASIS OF CALM: enjoy elegant seclusion in the bedroom suite (top); the peaceful Club Lounge (above)


- T R AV EL -

Rooms offer an incredible view of Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament

3

Marriott County Hall, London It’s strange to think that, as we sit in the woodpanelled splendour of this impressive hotel, that it was once a hotbed of hard-left political activism. It’s here that a former London Mayor headed up the now disbanded GLC (Greater London Council) converting the building to a headquarters for his operations and, in a move that saw County Hall dubbed the ‘People’s Palace’, instigated an open door policy which allowed citizens to hold meetings in the committee rooms free of charge. The venue opened in 1922 and, pre-Ken, served as the impressive headquarters of the London County Council. Fittingly, there are some wonderful images from years gone by dotted around its public spaces, showcasing the building’s central role in London’s political life. Today, its only link with the past is its unsurpassed location on Westminster Bridge, with many rooms offering an incredible view of Big Ben, the London Eye and the Houses of Parliament. If you’re a tourist looking for the perfect London hotel location, it doesn’t get much better than this. There are over 200 rooms, including 14 suites, set on six floors. Our top floor suite offered that

stunning river view, plus a small balcony that also included the unexpected bonus of being able to wave to people in the pods of the Eye. Great fun, but it’s worth remembering they’re there if, like me, you’re prone to a pyjama-clad stretch on your balcony of a morning. Better still, all guests in river-facing rooms wake up to the unmistakable chimes of Big Ben – arguably the world’s greatest alarm clock. The room itself was handsome, with solid wood furniture, a decent TV and well-appointed bathroom. My advice, though, is to spend most of your time investigating the rest of the hotel, from the massive gym to the 25m pool (a rarity in central London), steam rooms and, crucially, the quirky bar area. The latter’s floor to ceiling windows offered another panoramic view of the Thames and, better still, a selection of 69 gins to choose from. The spirit formed the base of my Corpse

- 114 -

Reviver cocktail – a new one on me – which is a delicious blend of lemon, gin, orange liqueur and absinthe, and proved to be a great postswim pick-me-up. Open until midnight, this bar really is a hidden gem that I’m guessing few Londoners know about. It would make a great first date bar, particularly if you precede it with a romantic stroll on the South Bank. Dinner that night was taken in the adjacent restaurant, Gillray’s Steakhouse. My wife and I enjoyed a selection of seriously good aged meat. Although I wasn’t quite up to eating the signature ‘Bull’s Head’ portion – all 1kg of it – I did enjoy the excellent grass and heather-fed bone-in prime rib, a hefty chunk of perfectly rare meat served with triple cooked chips. We also tried some king scallops with smoked bacon and pea mash, which offered a nice juxtaposition of sweet and salty tastes. The only quibble was with the cheeseboard which looked, and tasted, as if the cheeses had been cut several hours before and left chilling in a fridge. It serves me right, I guess, for not going with my instinct, which was the sherry trifle. Like I said though, this was a minor hiccup in an otherwise flawless stay. The politicians may have departed but, if it came to a vote, this hotel gets a big tick in the box from me. marriott.co.uk


Th e wo rlds f i ne st be spoke j e w e lle rs w w w . l uca s g eor g e. co. u k 0203 086 7111 L ond on


- T R AV EL -

Words – Chris Elwell-Sutton

califor n ia

dreami n g Head to the West Coast of the States for a taste of luxury bohemia, complete with fine wines and breathtaking views

When American friends told me and my wife that Highway 1 was the most beautiful stretch of road in the US, we nodded politely, but with a facial expression that seemed to say: “Yeah, yeah, yeah. Chill out. We get it.” But as we power up the winding slopes of the Santa Lucia Mountains in a heavy, topof-the-range SUV, we realise that everything they said was true – and more besides. Thick forests of redwoods appear, along with pines and eucalyptus trees. Condors soar above us, and the vast shimmering Pacific and the seals we saw playing in it, disappear from view. A thick blanket of fluffy cloud against rock face comes into view, stretching as far as the eye can see. As we climb still higher, we see the stylish, modest sign that tells us we’ve reached the Post

Ranch Inn. This five star, 40-chalet resort has been showered with accolades by reviewers and industry bodies alike and is regularly cited as one of the finest destinations in the States. But can it really be that good? Yes. Like Big Sur itself, Post Ranch Inn manages to live up to – and even surpass – its reputation. First impressions are great.The guy who greets us knows (slightly scarily) exactly who we are, seems genuinely delighted to meet us and directs us to reception, where champagne awaits. Our car is whisked away and valet parked, satisfyingly nestled between a Bentley and a Rolls-Royce. Like larger and less hairy Ewoks, we stay in a stunning little house on stilts, built into the hillside. The building reflects the “organic architecture” of acclaimed designer Mickey

- 116 -

Meunnig. His vision, like that of the owners, has seen the area’s trees and coastline put at the centre of the project. Like the rest of the resort, Sierra Mar restaurant is sympathetic to its surroundings and built from locally sourced reclaimed wood, glass and slate. It has impeccable service and an award-winning wine cellar containing over 14,000 bottles. But as we perch on the mountainside, overlooking the clouds and ocean and feeling literally on top of the world, we’re not surprised that it’s this view that attracts people just as much as the food. The ethos of luxury in harmony with nature can be seen throughout. Our tree house features a sunken slate tub, a wood burner, the finest toiletries and a fridge packed with treats like champagne and cheeses. Don’t try looking for


POSTCARD PERFECT: Big Sur’s Post Ranch Inn’s “organic architecture” and relaxing Jade Pool (opposite)

- 117-


- T R AV EL -

a TV though. You came to get away from all that. Complimentary activities, all delivered with style and quality, include yoga with beautiful people in a yurt, meditation, guided nature walks and a gastronomic tour of the chef ’s garden, featuring all the produce served at Sierra Mar. Our favourite post-dinner treat was an amazing stargazing session courtesy of an astronomer and a state-of-the-art telescope. For those attracted to the elegance and romance of Post Ranch Inn, but concerned about your eco-credentials, don’t worry. The pimped-out, leather-seated Lexus 4x4s used to ferry guests around the resort are all – you guessed it – hybrids.

BACK TO NATURE: Post Ranch Inn’s treehouse bolthole (above) and meditation pool (below)

Like Big Sur itself, Post Ranch Inn manages to surpass its reputation

TIME AT TIDE: Glorious views at Sausalito’s Inn Above Tide – from the balcony (above) and the bedroom (below)

Quest for the best

The next stop on our quest for the perfect west coast view saw us head to a contemporary boutique hotel on San Francisco Bay, a 160 mile drive north of Big Sur. Traditionally a haven for arty types, Sausalito is a picturesque little town across the Bay from downtown San Francisco. Nowadays, it’s too expensive to be a viable home for struggling artists or writers, though in its stores, cafés and bars, Sausalito retains some of its hippieish charm. An example of this is the enjoyable No Name Bar on Bridgeway, where a good-natured live band takes requests from a crowd including a number of local eccentrics who occasionally decide to express themselves spontaneously through modern dance.

- 118 -



- T R AV EL -

The Wine Train

BAY WINDOW: On a clear day, all the Bay Area’s famous landmarks are visible to guests at Inn Above Tide

That bohemian flavour is definitely reflected at the Inn Above Tide. As opening gambits go, the guy behind the desk has one of the best, with: “Hey, how you doing? Can I park your car? Would you like a glass of wine?” Like him, the other staff too, are supremely helpful but without being obsequious or butlerish. But don’t mistake their relaxed vibe for a lack of attention to detail. They make sure they get things right. As we sip a glass of wine – a lovely Napa pinot grigio served as part of the hotel’s nightly complimentary cheese and wine session – we have the chance to take stock of our surroundings. Seldom has a hotel lived up to its name so comprehensively, perched as it is, right over the bay itself and conveniently located a stone’s throw from the ferry port.The bar is relaxing, rich and subtle, while our suite is gently, understatedly contemporary with a sea-influenced colour scheme and subtle maritime themes. Everything here is top-notch, from the toiletries to the complimentary pen. (At least I think it was complimentary. If it wasn’t, sorry!) Unlike our previous destination, however, TV is permitted here. In fact, the suite features a stateof-the-art piece of HD kit and an impressive, complimentary Blu-ray library. But by far the most stunning thing to look at here is the view. The scene from the suite is a vast, panoramic vista that few in the Bay Area ever get the chance

to enjoy in its entirety. On a clear day, all the famous landmarks are visible (Golden Gate: check… Alcatraz: check), the task of spotting them made easier by a nicely-crafted card provided for guests identifying the key points of interest. Part of the joy of such a wide view is the ability to enjoy spectacles such as pelicans spotting their prey, stalking it and then diving in for the kill. The richness and variety of the colours at sunset was another highlight (pink, red, yellow and blue, to name just a few) as was the huge, peaceful, twinkling field of gold visible first thing in the morning. Yes, it’s the view that the guests pay for and that’s arguably the focal point of the suite, with many of its features existing mainly to help you make the most of it. As well as solid, rustic teak furniture, the deck outside has a plain glass safety rail so that our view of the Bay is uninterrupted. Sliding doors allow the luxurious bathroom to open out towards the deck, enabling us to engage in the ridiculously indulgent pastime of sitting, drinking sparkling wine from Napa in a magnificent Jacuzzi bath while looking straight out at the ferry ploughing peacefully across the Bay. I just hope no one on that ferry had binoculars… postranchinn.com innabovetide.com

- 120 -

San Francisco is right on the doorstep of the lush, green, winegrowing region of Napa and there is no better way to explore its acclaimed vineyards than on the Wine Train. Running for the first 36 miles on a railway track built in 1860 (which is almost prehistoric by American standards), the train in question is a restored Pullman dining car that reflects something of the oldworld charm of the Orient-Express. Various packages are available, most of which involve a smart three-course lunch on the train and visits to particular wineries in the kind of luxurious, air-conditioned tour bus normally reserved for recording artists. We took a tour which involved the opportunity to visit the Domaine Chandon winery, set up in 1973 by Moët & Chandon, and celebrated for its pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier grapes and the champagne-style sparkling wines they create from them. The grounds are beautiful, too. Best of all, this is a “no-car” tour, so if you’re a couple, neither of you has to be the designated driver, cruelly barred from sampling Chandon’s delightful wares. winetrain.com


apexhotels.co.uk

LONDON, EDINBURGH & DUNDEE

Apex Hotels are located in London, Edinburgh & Dundee • Eight hotels in great city centre locations • Award winning restaurants & bars • Complimentary WiFi and local calls • Great Short Break rates and offers • TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence 2013 Winners T 0845 365 0000 reservations@apexhotels.co.uk facebook.com/ApexHotels

@apexhotels


- m o m en ts i n t i m e -

Keeping time The undisputed king of jazz, Duke Ellington’s music transcended boundaries and saw him hailed as an iconoclastic genius. Ellington once said it was the memory of things gone that was the inspiration for his work as a jazz musician. It was this preoccupation with lost time that not only saw him create some unforgettable tunes but also led to his fascination with fine watches. His Cartier Tank à Guichets, introduced in 1928, manages to hit the perfect note of being both understated and precious.

cartier.com

- 122 -




Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.