Tempus issue 29

29

/ German watch special / LU X U RY J EW ELLERY Africa's hotel revolution / C H R I ST PO H ER WA R D / Bespoke shoes RO LLS-ROYC E W R A I T H / Cannes Yachting Festival / Watch snob / H YT I C EB ERG MB&F

ENGINEERED FOR MEN WHO KNOW THAT THE BEST THINGS IN LIFE ARE COMPLICATED.

Portuguese Grande Complication. Ref. 3774: The life of a watchmaker would be different if it weren’t so complicated.

spurred on by one dream: the dream of discovering new territory. The Portuguese Grande Complication is the company’s proud flagship and

In fact, it would be pretty monotonous. So it’s just as well that IWC Schaffhausen has entire teams of specialists devoted to developing new mechanical complications, that consistently explore the bounds of what is possible. It’s something Schaffhausen’s engineers have been doing since 1868. And like the early pioneers of marine exploration, they are

brings together many of the achievements of modern watchmaking.

Housed compactly inside the case are a perpetual calendar that is mechanically programmed until 2499, a power reserve of 44 hours when fully wound, a perpetual moon phase display and a highly complex IWC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N . minute repeater.

I WC S C H A F F H AU S E N B O U T I Q U E S: PA R I S I V I E N N A I R O M E I M O S COW I N E W YO R K I B E I J I N G I D U B A I I H O N G KO N G I G E N E VA I ZU R I C H I WC .CO M

For more information please call +44 845 337 1868 or email info-uk@iwc.com

A watch perfectly suited for the beach and the boardroom: Ahoi

Find all NOMOS models and retailers at nomos-glashuette.com and nomos-store.com

Livyora, beautifully crafted contemporary fine jewellery inspired by beloved narratives.

Pavoni, featuring yellow sapphire, smoky quartz, iolite and blue topaz.

www.livyora.com

LIV YORA Wear the story.

‘What gives you the license to do this?’

THE CEO OF A MAJOR SWISS WATCH BRAND ON HEARING ABOUT CALIBRE SH21, CHRISTOPHER WARD ’S FIRST IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT.

The chronometer-certified C9 HARRISON 5 DAY AUTOMATIC, with 120-hour power reserve, is the first watch to house our own movement.

Conceived and designed by our master watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke, and manufactured by some of Switzerland’s finest watchmaking craftsmen, it is destined to be one of the most talked about watches in years.

And, yes, you do have the license to own one.

S

ee the world from a different perspective on a Private Jet Tour with Captain’s Choice

There is no finer way to see the world than on one of our exclusive tours by luxury private jet.

For many, the dream of visiting exotic, iconic destinations can be thwarted by the complexities of planning such a journey, or concerns about safety and comfort. But with Captain’s Choice everything is taken care of for you. Itineraries are meticulously planned, accommodation is in some of the world’s finest hotels and you dine at superb restaurants at each destination. Throughout, you’ll accompanied by a dedicated flight crew and looked after by an experienced tour escort team which even includes a doctor.

Ultimate Africa, is an incredible 25 day adventure on which you will criss-cross this immense continent and discover a wide ranges of cultures, landscapes and wildlife as you visit Ghana, Namibia, South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Madagascar, Tanzania, Rwanda and Ethiopia.

For a truly worldwide adventure, how about the Captain’s Choice Circumnavigation of the Globe tour? You will fly around the world taking in Mexico, Brazil, Easter Island, Tahiti, Australia, Cambodia, India and Africa. Visit the Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza, the Khmer temples of Angkor Wat and the breathtaking Taj Mahal.

Soak up the lively carnival atmosphere of Rio de Janeiro, and explore Easter Island. Not to mention relaxing in tranquil Tahiti, experiencing the power of Iguassu Falls, visiting the iconic city of Sydney and going on Safari in the Serengeti National Park.

Find out more at a special Tempus Magazine event at The Ritz Hotel, London The real luxury of these tours is being able to travel by private jet. It’s an experience that is exclusive from the very start when you check-in at the luxurious Harrods Private Jet terminal at Luton airport. On board you will enjoy the comfort of business-class seats, wide aisles and a standard of personalised service that you won’t find on a scheduled flight. More importantly, flights can be planned at convenient times of day and airports chosen to be within easy reach of each destination. And you won’t have hassles like immigration queues and baggage handling, which are all taken care of for you (wherever possible) making the journey much more civilized than regular travel.

Ultimate South America is an epic journey through Brazil, Chile, Argentina, Peru and Ecuador. Along the way you’ll have the chance to visit Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires, explore Machu Picchu, the mystical ‘lost city’ of the Incas, see the Falkland Islands and discover Darwin’s ecological haven, the remote Galapagos Islands.

To find out more about these amazing Journeys, come along to the exclusive Tempus Magazine Private Jet Touring event at The Ritz Hotel in London on Wednesday 17th September 2014.

Held in association with Captain’s Choice, you’ll learn more about the advantages of touring by private jet, and the amazing itineraries on offer.

The event starts at 6.30pm and the hour long presentation is followed by complimentary drinks and the chance to meet the Captain’s Choice team who will be happy to answer any questions. The event is free to attend, but admission is by RSVP only as places are limited. Please get in touch for more details and to book your place.

CALL 0800 046 7739 WWW.CAPTAINSCHOICE.CO.UK

S I M P LY T H E F I N E S T W AY TO S E E T H E W O R L D

NOT ONLY MINE BUT A PART OF ME

www.francvila.com

Pa r t o f h i m : F V E VO S 1 8 “Co b r a Su sp e n d e d S ke l e to n” / Pa r t o f h e r : F Vq 8 0 Mi s s S e l e n i t y W h i te M O P

- fo r ewo r d -

ISSUE

TWENTY NINE From the editor Editor

Scott Manson

scott@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4693 Designer

Marcus Leitch Commercial Director

Jay Boisvert

jay@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4697 Senior Account Manager

Ashley Collin

ashley@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4687

CURVE CONTENT TEMPUS IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY

BY CURVE CONTENT LTD, 3-7 HERBAL HILL, LONDON EC1R 5EJ PRINTED BY

Beautifully engineered, impeccably finished and hugely desirable. On the face of it, this would be the perfect description of a fine Swiss timepiece but, in this issue, we reveal why watch aficionados have increasingly been buying up pieces from its northern neighbour, Germany. The country already dominates the holy trinity of football, motoring and beer and, mostly thanks to the industrious watchmakers based in the sleepy towns of Pforzheim and Glashütte, it now boasts a respected timepiece industry too.

I was lucky enough to see this revival first hand, when I visited the Nomos manufacture in Glashütte last year. The brand’s restrained, utilitarian chic and the skilled men and women who created the watches left a lasting impression and, crucially, led me to further investigate the increasingly wide choice available when it comes to teutonic timekeepers. From the ultra high end A. Lange & Söhne to quirky fledgling outfits such as Kudoke, there are dozens of brands out there worthy of your attention. Find out more on page 53.

Another name that every horology connoisseur should be aware of is Christopher Ward. In just ten years, this British brand has gone from a standing start to huge international sales. On page 91 we talk to Mike France, one of its co-founders, to discover the secrets of his success.

We also take a look at the current state of the luxury jewellery market as Laura McCreddie, former editor of Retail Jeweller magazine, showcases some of the lesser-known designers who should be on every fine jewellery fan’s radar.

In terms of travel, there’s a special report on Africa’s fast-growing premium hotel market, plus we highlight some of the most romantic hotels on the planet.

Oh, and I was privileged enough to get behind the wheel of a beautiful Rolls-Royce Wraith earlier this month. Find out how I got on – and why it’s arguably not the best car for the narrow, winding lanes of rural Devon – on page 102.

Enjoy the issue.

Scott Manson Editor - 19 -

Contributors

Tempus is proud to work with some of the UK’s finest timepiece and luxury writers, including:

Laura McCreddie

As a former editor of Retail Jeweller magazine, and current editor of Eve’s Watch – a watch magazine for women – Laura is well placed to reveal trends in the jewellery market. Turn to page 65 to discover the up-and-coming designers that are giving the big jewellery houses a run for their money.

Errol Fuller

Errol Fuller is a renowned natural history authority and author of many books on extinct species and birds of paradise, including a recent book, co-authored with Sir David Attenborough (Drawn from Paradise). He has curated several exhibitions, including the acclaimed Lost Worlds Exhibition in 2004 in Qatar. Errol is also chairman of the Natural History vetting committees of the leading London Antiques Fairs. His latest book Voodoo Salon focuses on taxidermy and, on page 39, he outlines how this once unfashionable branch of collecting has become a hot topic once again.

- c o n t en ts -

Inside ISSUE TWENTY NINE

22 Take Me There

80 Continental Shift

We head to the Seychelles to sample the pure tranquillity of a stay at Maia Luxury Resort & Spa

Africa has never been hotter, as the world’s most exclusive hotel brands are keen to show you

25 Luxury Briefing

91 Talking About a Revolution

Find the finer things in life right here 35 Food and Drink

Where to eat, drink and be merry

Co-owner Mike France on the meteoric rise of Christopher Ward, “the best-value watch brand in the world”

39 The Word

95 Home James

Discover the companies that can get you from A to B in style

Author and natural history authority Errol Fuller on the renaissance of taxidermy

102 Be Still, My Beating Heart

42 The Watch Snob

The new Rolls-Royce Wraith: a sporty number to get the blood pumping

AskMen's columnist pulls no punches when solving your horological conundrums

105 Sitting on the Dock of the Bay

44 Fashion and Accessories

The latest in luxe

29

46 Object of Desire

108 Sea Kings

HYT’s latest timepiece is one seriously cool customer 49 Style Advice

All aboard for the pick of the best in show at this year’s ever-luxurious Cannes Yachting Festival

2 9

Meet the shoemakers steering the well-heeled to footwear nirvana

114 Room For Romance

A cherrypicked selection of some of the world’s best hotels for those in the mood for love

53 Teutonic Timekeepers

Get under the skin of Germany’s most desirable watches

MB&F / German Watch Special / LU X U RY J EW ELLERY Africa's Hotel Revolution / C H R I ST PO H ER WA R D / Bespoke Shoes / Watch Snob / H YT I C EB ERG

RO LLS-ROYC E W R A I T H / Cannes Yachting Festival

65 Going For Bespoke

We reveal how the trend for bespoke jewellery has fired up the imagination of customers and brands alike

Babbacombe – a jewel in the English Riviera’s crown – is fast becoming a premium weekend break destination

Special thanks: Simon Berkovitch

- 21 -

122 Moments in Time

Multiple Le Mans and Grand Prix winner Jacky Ickx and his Chopard GPMH

Take me there

- 22 -

Maia Luxury Resort & Spa S EYC H ELLES

With its palm trees waving in the breeze like a welcoming committee as you touch down in your helicopter, the Maia resort has long been a favourite with luxury travellers. Overlooking Anse Louis beach on the southwest coast of Mahé in the Seychelles, and bordered by turquoise blue sea and powder sand beaches, it’s the perfect place to enjoy a holiday of pure tranquillity. November sees it launch its Beyond All-Inclusive offering, which means guests have nothing to sign during their stay – whisking away any financial stress – with virtually every aspect of your stay being complementary, including scuba diving and a bespoke programme of events for kids. Little wonder, then, that Maia is a regular winner of top spa resort awards.

maia.com.sc

- 23 -

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Because the best things in life aren't free Shine on

RO G ER D U B U I S

The latest-generation calibre, the mechanical self-winding RD821 movement, powers this impressive feminine watch from Roger Dubuis’ Velvet collection. It’s the showstopping diamond display, though, that really makes this a truly exceptional watch. Covered with 367 invisibly set diamonds, the buyer can then choose precious stones – such as rubies, blue, pink or yellow sapphires or emeralds – to suit their taste. Further bespoke options include personalised setting of the bezel, dial, décor, case band and even the crown. The price is, of course, on application. rogerdubuis.com

- 25 -

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

French fancy

P EN I N S U LA PA R I S

Well-travelled types who enjoy the finer things in life – all Tempus readers, in other words – will be familiar with the Peninsula group of hotels. From Hong Kong to Bangkok to Beverly Hills and beyond, they are synonymous with a sophisticated stay. It’s been a long time coming, but the group has finally launched its first European hotel – the Peninsula Paris. With 200 rooms and suites, six restaurants and bars, expansive terraces – including one on the rooftop with a 360° view of Paris – it brings a new level of opulence to the City of Light. peninsula.com

Wrist candy

BAT ES H ATS

If you’re looking to add a rakish touch to your wrists, then Bates Hats has the answer. The venerable Jermyn Street hat store has been supplying discerning gents with headwear for over a century, and it also does a fine line in accessories.The new AW14 collection includes dapper bowler hat with umbrella and top hat and cane cufflinks, available in sterling silver or gold. bates-hats.com

- 26 -

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Limited edition

B R EM O N T

A glittering launch party at the Science Museum, London, last month saw British watch brand Bremont release its annual limited edition piece. This year’s model – the Wright Flyer – is a tribute to the first-ever powered aircraft, the 1903 Wright Flyer, built and designed by the Wright Brothers.

It boasts a new 50-hour power reserve movement, the BWC/01, and the watch itself is available in rose gold, steel or white gold. Each movement will also feature some of the original muslin material used to cover the Wright Flyer aircraft.

Another winning watch from the ever-inventive Bremont brothers. bremont.com

Minimalist masterpiece ASTA R

Designed by renowned architect Rino Brodbeck, the Astarwatch features a deep-blue dial with no markers and the watch hands replaced by gold, silver and a diamond to indicate the hours, minutes and seconds respectively. Only 15 of these pieces will be made, with one already given pride of place at the Musée d’Horlogerie de Genève. astarwatch.ch

- 27 -

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Bespoke bubbles

C H A M PAG N E BY YO U

The fizz aficionados at Champagne Warehouse have come up with an innovative idea that allows customers to select both the style and packaging of their champagne. You start with a tasting session to ensure you’re getting the perfect champagne for your palate, and then design a unique, handmade aluminium label which can include images, logos, a family crest or a personal message. Cheers! champagnebyyou.com

Essential event

CA PTA I N'S C H O I C E A N D T EM P U S Renowned private aviation tour operator Captain’s Choice has teamed up with Tempus for a fabulous reader event, to be held at London’s Ritz hotel on 17 September. Our editor Scott Manson will be on hand to discuss luxury travel and the CEO of Captain’s Choice will highlight some of the exciting trips his company has to offer. Guest tickets are limited but, if you contact Tempus soon, we may still be able to extend you an invitation. captainschoice.co.uk

- 28 -

BEVERLY HILLS 08.27 A.M.

OBJECTS OF TIME® - PERFECT MASTERPIECES OF TIME

MIRAGE · 22 TIME MOVER® · German high-security safe · Fine Timepiece with German 8-day springdriven movement · Storage drawer for jewellery and watches · Viewing window made of two-way mirror spy glass · State-of-the-art LED lighting · Integrated thermometer and hygrometer displays · Swiss security lock · Height-adjustable stainless steel feet on a pedestal · Optional German HiFi system with Bluetooth and iPhone/iPod docking station Fine German craftsmanship · Finest

www.buben-zorweg.com

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Final flight

I WC

The tweezer-wielding watchmakers at IWC are being kept mighty busy as it seems not a month goes by without them launching another timepiece. This one, though, is very special. Dubbed ‘The Last Flight’ and available in titanium, red gold or platinum, each in a limited series of 1,700, 170 and 17 respectively, it commemorates celebrated author (The Little Prince) and pilot Antoine de SaintExupéry who took off on a reconnaissance flight over France and never returned.

Another beautiful pilot’s watch chronograph from the busy Schaffhausen-based team. iwc.com

Star performer

M B&F

The unconventional artisans at MB&F have released another groundbreaking piece of horological art in the form of the Starfleet Machine, designed by MB&F with engineering by the master clockmakers at L’Epée 1839. With an amazing 40-day power reserve, domed time indications and retrograde seconds in the form of turret-mounted laser cannons, this limited edition piece is an otherworldly delight. mbandf.com

- 30 -

TOM MERRIFIELD

www.tommerrifield.co.uk 020 7431 0794

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Super saloon

ASTO N M A RT I N

Luxury carmaker Aston Martin is reviving the much-loved Lagonda badge for a range topping four-door, initially offered exclusively for the Middle East. As you can see from the picture, the company has channelled the design values of the boxy, wedge-shaped 1976 Lagonda.

Technical details are sketchy at the moment, but expect a huge engine under that expansive bonnet and a 0-60mph of around five seconds. astonmartin.com

Tough luxe

TUTIMA

In an issue celebrating the best in German watchmaking, it’s only fitting that we include this rugged chronograph from Glashütte-based Tutima. The M2 is a classic tool watch – its former incarnation was standard issue for NATO pilots – with its 46.5-millimeter pearl-blasted titanium case superbly finished with smooth edges, rounded corners and anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

Inside, the Caliber 321 is surrounded by a combination of soft iron and mu-metal, a soft nickel-iron alloy that provides an anti-magnetic shield.

Rock-solid and surprisingly beautiful. tutima.com

- 33 -

- fo o d & d r i n k -

TRENDS AND NEWS FROM THE BEST BARS AND KITCHENS TING

Reviewed by Scott Manson

Resisting the urge to say, “is this a London ting?” on entering, particularly since the gracious, immaculately-clad staff are unlikely to appreciate an obscure garage music reference, my dining partner and I instead silently let the view sink in. Situated on the 35th floor of the gleaming Shard and part of the building’s Shangri-La hotel, our table’s vista included all of the ‘starchitect’structures – the Walkie-Talkie, The Gherkin, The Cheesegrater – plus the unique panorama of London spread out for miles below. At first, I thought we had the best table in the house, but a short stroll around the 180° space revealed that every table offered a similarly brilliant outlook.

From the moment of arrival, the whole experience was faultless.

Although the restaurant had only been open for a couple of weeks, it ran like a well-oiled machine – or a newly serviced watch, if you will – with every one of the well-spaced tables filled with happy diners. Even the surfeit of selfie-taking customers didn’t detract from what was a sophisticated lunch, from a starter of Dorset crab served with an intriguing flavour combination comprising tomato, mango puree, cucumber spheres and passion fruit coulis, to a wonderful hunk of John Dory – a great recommendation from our waiter – which was accompanied by burnt butter, sweet potato, lime and wild mushrooms. My dining partner opted for the fillet steak, a buttery soft piece of meat cooked perfectly mid-rare and served with a generous helping of French fries and béarnaise sauce.

Dessert was no slouch either – we shared a sweet, crumbly chocolate tart which came with slightly sour French griotte cherries and an oozy, indulgent chocolate filling.

Finally, no review of this restaurant can pass without a mention of the toilets. Truly, they are loos with views with each urinal facing a floor to ceiling glass window which looks out over the capital and, to get to the bottom of things, the cubicles also offer Japanese-style toilets which provide slightly disconcerting posterior-related services.

Ting, then, is a terrific addition to London’s luxury dining scene and, crucially, the perfect opportunity to enjoy the unrivalled view from London’s latest architectural icon. shangri-la.com

WILTONS Monday lunchtime is normally a time for solemn reflection on the weekend’s antics, perhaps accompanied by a healthy salad and a cleansing glass of water. However, on this particularly sunny Monday morning I find myself en route for an early lunch at Wiltons on London’s Jermyn Street. Little wonder, then, that I have a spring in my step as I enter its wonderfully traditional interior. It’s been running in one form or another since opening as a stall in 1742 and, given the age of some of its clientele on my visit, it looks like they have a solid group of dyed-in-the-wool regulars who return time and again for its trencherman portions and faultless service.

Settling into a cosy, velvet booth, I start the day with an ice cold glass of champagne accompanied by a selection of oysters – a six mollusc combination of Jersey rock, Colchester rock and Dorset rock – and all so quiveringly fresh that I suspect they had just arrived from Billingsgate Market that morning. Choosing a starter and main

Reviewed by Jay Boisvert course, though, was a more challenging affair because, frankly, I wanted to order everything on the menu. This isn’t plain old greed – okay, maybe it is a little bit – but more due to the fact that everything sounded fabulous.

After much deliberation I plumped for the avocado and crab salad to start. Combining succulent white crab with ripe avocado and some delightfully old-school Marie Rose sauce on the side, it was perfection on a plate.

The main was also a hard choice, being a toss up between the lobster thermidor and the roast leg of Romney Marsh lamb, expertly carved tableside on a gleaming silver trolley.

I went with the meat option and, from the first bite of the melt in the mouth lamb accompanied by a selection of delicately steamed vegetables and drizzled with rich jus, I knew I’d made the right choice. The portions were as impressive as the taste and, in testament to the draw of the carving trolley, I saw several solo diners come in and ask specifically for the lamb. Clearly,

- 35 -

when food is this good, there’s no need for a dining partner.

It’s the intimate, clubbable atmosphere that makes eating at Wiltons such a delight.

With hundreds of years to hone their craft, its team have created a restaurant that continues to produce classic, quality dishes that stand the test of time. wiltons.co.uk

- fo o d & d r i n k -

One in a million

By Peter Dean Special bottles demand special occasions. It was fitting, then, that to launch the Blanc des Millénaires 1985, of which there are only 200 bottles released worldwide at £400 a bottle, Thierry Roset, cellarmaster of Charles Heidsieck, should choose to do so at a feast at Harrods’private dining room.

A six-course dinner showcased Charles Heidsieck’s superb range, with the Rosé Réserve matched with a caper-glazed oliveoil poached salmon and the Brut Millésime 2000 served with aged Comté cheese with walnut, mushroom and truffle. The meal climaxed with only the fourth Millénaires this house has released. The champagne is extraordinary: 1985 was a cold year with the vines freezing, and what has resulted is a deeply complex, golden-hued wine that has a floral nose then chocolate, nutty notes with a rich aged, almost Cognac-like depth. Charles invested in 11th-century chalk cellars that give the brand its unique ability to mix grape varieties or, in the case of the 100 per cent chardonnay Millénaires, different grand cru vineyards.

to holding a cold beer at an England qualifier bash with friends. We lost.

As the official champagne of the 2014 World Cup, Taittinger has released this special souvenir bottle which has truly amazing hologram packaging. No doubt if England had won in Brazil then you wouldn’t find a bottle for dust, but – ahem – there are still quite a few in the shops. The perfect gift for any German friends.

Harveynichols.com, £45 a 75cl bottle.

RÉMY MARTIN XO EXCELLENCE GOLD CANNES EDITION This was the 11th year that Rémy Martin was selected to be an official supplier at the Cannes Film Festival. The 100 per cent Fine Champagne eaux-de-vie needs little introduction but this limited edition perhaps does – it’s a spectacular bling-tastic gold bottle with a vintage film reel motif.

Just 22 of these bottles are available. majestic.co.uk, £12.99

THE DOCTOR WILL SEE YOU NOW Boris Ivan, aka ‘Doctor’ Boris, bar manager at the Galvin Bar at the Hilton, Park Lane, has come up with an innovative range of cocktails – dubbed the Prescription Selection – to coincide with the launch of the bar’s weekly Tuesday evening cocktail parties. With a fabulous live soul band playing and some truly innovative cocktails available ¬– including the delicious Elixir of Love (Beefeater gin, Passoã, Calvados, vanilla syrup, fresh passion fruit) – a recent visit by Tempus means we can give this bar our seal of approval. galvinatwindows.com

Rare pleasures CHARLES HEIDSIECK, BLANC DES MILLÉNAIRES 1995 Although you’d be hard-pressed to find a bottle of the 1985, the 1995 vintage is widely available. Winner of Decanter’s top fizz award this year, this is a blend of five vineyards and has the most extraordinary mix of flavours – sweet and sour, creamy white pepper notes mix with toasted brioche, popcorn, marzipan, lemon and ginger. At the Harrods dinner it was served with sea salt macaroon with dulce de leche ice cream, a perfect match of yin and yang.

Harrods.com, £175 a 75cl bottle.

TAITTINGER BRUT RESERVE NV, FIFA WORLD CUP LIMITED EDITION I once found a case at auction of Veuve Clicquot half bottles from the 1966 vintage. It was the perfect alternative

- 36 -

EXCLUSIVE LIMITED EDITION

A N A R C H I T E C T WAT C H I N H A R M O N Y WITH THE CELESTIAL SYSTEM

www.astar watch.ch

- t h e wo r d -

How taxidermy got its groove back

Errol Fuller

After years in the fashion doldrums, taxidermy is cool again. Not so long ago it was seen as something of a laughing stock, and those who collected it were regarded as lacking any sense of political correctness. Today, however, it is as hot a subject for serious collectors as it was in its heyday in the 19th century. There are all sorts of reasons for this renaissance, one of the most compelling being its use in contemporary art works by young, fashionable artists such as Polly Morgan or Kelly McCallum, and impressive country house collections like that of Aynhoe Park’s James Perkins. But it is not just art that’s selling.

Collectors now vie for antique pieces in display cases by well-known Victorian taxidermists such as Rowland Ward, John Cooper, or Peter Spicer, or they will compete for striking glass domes full of brightly coloured tropical birds. Whereas such items could be picked up for peanuts just a decade or so ago, prices have exploded in the last few years and there is no sign of this progression slowing down. The value of good or spectacular examples can now be reckoned in the thousands.

Modern examples, too, are in vogue and are being furiously fought over at auction. Animals die in zoos and wildlife parks, of course, and today’s taxidermists are able to use such unfortunate casualties to create spectacular pieces that show respect to the animal itself without resort to any actual killing. Bears, kangaroos, peacocks and lions are all creatures that have recently been offered for sale, and their value is rocketing. In addition to their intrinsic interest, all such items have a spectacular decorative element that pieces from many more conventional fields of collecting do not.

As with any other form of collecting there are certain criteria that it is wise to observe,

and these are often similar to those standards that would be observed in other areas of investment collecting. There are often bargains to be picked up by the initiated, but anyone starting out should concentrate on items of top quality. If it is an antique piece, the buyer should ensure that what they are acquiring is in original condition, and that the display case has not been altered. Condition is obviously of vital importance, and specialist dealers like David Ayre, Heads and Tails or Emma Hawkins can all advise on such issues. Just as a painting is often judged by the name of the artist, so too are pieces of taxidermy – particularly antique ones – judged by the name of the maker.

Then there is the object itself. Is it pleasing, spectacular, or highly decorative? Does it feature a rare creature or, even better, one that is extinct? Is there any interesting provenance that goes with the piece? All of these elements are important in gauging value or in considering just how quickly an item might increase in value.

Where would someone go who wishes to buy a single piece or start to build a collection?

It is important to make sure that whatever is being considered conforms to any licensing regulations that are currently in place, and this is where specialist dealers like those mentioned above come in. In addition, there are a number of auction houses – Summers Place at Billingshurst, Sussex, for instance – that now specialise in natural history sales and are equipped to give sound advice.

The natural world gets smaller every year and the supply of these items is finite. There is every reason to suppose that the value of good quality items will just go on rising. fullerandgordon.com

- 39 -

Errol Fuller is a natural history authority and author of books on extinct species and birds of paradise, including Drawn from Paradise, co-authored with Sir David Attenborough. His latest book Voodoo Salon focuses on taxidermy and will be available from summersplaceauctions. co.uk. Errol is also chairman of the Natural History vetting committees of the leading London antiques fairs.

CLASSIC GENT COLLECTION MECHANICAL AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT. CALIBRE AN 9201/2824-2 WITH COMPLETE CALENDAR FUNCTIONS. A GREAT EXAMPLE OF THE FANTASTIC RESULTS YOU GET WHEN YOU SUCCEED TO FUSE TOGETHER ITALIAN DESIGN AND CHARM WITH SWISS CARE FOR DETAILS AND PRECISION. THIS WATCH IS AN AMAZING MIX OF CLASSICAL APPEAL, SLICK LINES AND TECHNOLOGY

FOR INFORMATION: E-MAIL INFO@ARMANDNICOLET.COM PHONE +39 030 3772892

The

Got a question about timepieces?

Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say… special request

Make mine a double

under starter’s orders

Hello Watch Snob, I recommend watches to my business school classmates based on their personalities and style. My intention is that by picking the right watch for the right people, I can learn more about watches and help my peers from being flossed by the price-inflating marketing schemes of some luxury watchmakers.

I’ve noticed you mention Louis Moinet.

Upon investigation, it appears that LM has lots of special editions. I would like to recommend the Jules Verne or the Astralis, but only if these watches are founded on absolute horological integrity. The last thing I would want to do is recommend a gimmicky watch that could expose him to some ridicule to the watch snobs of the business world.

Perhaps you could clarify the current state of this “pioneer” watchmaker?

Two questions, Snob. Firstly, are there any young or upcoming watchmakers that you see achieving the quality and stature of Patek, A. Lange & Söhne and JLC? Secondly, what do you think about the relationship with Ralph Lauren & Richemont Group as they enter the haute horology world, especially their Safari RL67 Tourbillon?

Dear Snob, If I were to spend $50k to start a collection on Rolex vintage, which one (or two pieces) should I begin with? I would prefer a more sporty/tool watch, though.

Recommending watches is a dicey proposition, unless you are quite sure you are as well-grounded in history and in possession of such faultless discrimination as, say, me.

There is no “absolute horological integrity” in anything. The idea is absurd – watches are made to appeal to certain priorities, not to measure up to a Platonic range of immutable abstractions.

Louis Moinet is not necessarily entirely gimmicky, but it is a quirky company, and the designs have a deliberate, steampunk aesthetic which is not everyone’s cup of tea.

If your friend understands this, maybe Louis Moinet is for him. Its entry-level watches – such as they are – should be avoided as they are merely an example of the firm’s total disinterest in them.

To your first query, the answer is simple: no.

There are very good independent watch- and clock-makers but they are extremely expensive to patronise and are largely disinterested in being brands in the sense that encompasses both A. Lange & Söhne and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

There is of course the eccentric and occasionally very interesting F. P. Journe, but it remains to be seen whether his inventiveness can be sustained or has run its course. His laudable refusal to compromise his vision of watchmaking also means his creative process brooks no collaboration, which at some point it must for his company to remain fertile.

In answer to your second question, Ralph Lauren has not entered the world of haute horlogerie with the RL67 Tourbillon. That happened when he introduced his quite lovely 867 square dress watch, which at 27mm and with a Piaget movement, manages to outTank the Cartier Tank. Many may snicker up their monogrammed sleeves at Ralph Lauren’s watches, but say what you like – it takes a certain kind of laudable stubbornness to make a 27mm square men’s dress watch.

Why, it’s almost the kind of thing the Snob would do.

If I had $50,000, I would not spend it on starting a vintage Rolex collection if they were the last watches on Earth. The current vogue for vintage Rolexes is irrational even by the admittedly not very high standards of watch enthusiasts: they are horologically mundane (in fact, they were deliberately intended to be), and on top of that you have to be a masochist to want to collect vintage Rolex nowadays.

There is more misrepresentation among dealers, collectors and auction houses than there is in most holiday home offers, and your chances of finding yourself, as many have, with a drawerful of watches that do nothing but testify to the cupidity of the seller and the vanity and gullibility of the buyer, are very high indeed. Desirable models are faked and cobbled together from spare parts so often – and so many have been legitimised by persons selling and buying them – that the waters are irretrievably muddied.

At this point in the march of human history, collecting vintage Rolexes is pretty much just for people who suffer from lack of imagination as badly as vintage Patek Philippe collectors but have less money.

If you absolutely insist on throwing money away on Rolexes, especially sports models, I suggest you go find a not-too-badly abused no-date Rolex Submariner.

To read more from the Watch Snob, head to askmen.com - 42 -

O.UK

F

R.C OSTE

- fas h i o n & ac c ess o r i es -

All that life can afford Feast your eyes on this quartet of quintessentially exclusive items, selected with the most stylish modern gentleman and lady in mind

Bear Brooksbank As a jewellery designer who also doubles up as an antique jewellery dealer, Bear always starts the creative process by sourcing the perfect stones. The collection features engagement rings, wedding and signet rings, cocktail rings, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, cufflinks and stick pins. All the pieces in the collection are a one-off, apart a select few exceptional, particularly popular pieces.

Pair of circular jade and brilliant-cut diamond ear-pendants, £9,000, and black and white diamond arrowhead ear-pendants, £2,850, bearbrooksbank.co.uk

- 44 -

Kita Launching next month, this new luxury skincare brand offers an unusual take on bespoke wellbeing. Before buying its products, users have to tell Kita’s team their birthday, including day, month and year. From there, one of five moisturising serums will be selected for you – based on the Oriental philosophy of the five elements – with each working to restore energy and radiant skin. £95 for 50ml, kitaworld.com

- fas h i o n & ac c ess o r i es -

Montegrappa Bugatti, arguably one of the most evocative names in motoring, has joined forces with luxury writing instrument manufacturer Montegrappa to create the exquisite Bugatti Pur Sang Duotone collection.

Sharing the same philosophy of exclusive craftsmanship, outstanding design and continuous innovation, the pens also mirror many of the design features of the famous Veyron car.

A set of matching cufflinks, available in a variety of finishes, is also available.

Pens from £990, montegrappa.com

Holland & Holland This venerable British field sports brand has added another fine flask to its collection – this time fashioned in a tactile kidney shape and featuring a hare motif. Made from 100 per cent pewter, it’s the perfect vessel to carry a rare malt whisky to help fortify yourself during those early morning shoots.

Hare Flask, £145, hollandandholland.com

- 45 -

- o bj ects o f d es i r e -

- 46 -

- o bj ects o f d es i r e -

W

ater and mechanical watches are generally unhappy bedfellows, as anyone who’s been swimming with a water-resistant watch with less than perfect seals will know to their cost.

HYT watches, however, use sealed liquid, pumped around a tube by two bellows, as the retrograde hour indication. In order to indicate time correctly, the tube is produced to very exact dimensions and has a tolerance of only a few nanometres. The result is a truly spectacular superwatch, and one that has become a firm favourite with timepiece aficionados.

This, then, is the latest model – the H1 Iceberg – styled in a white and ice-blue colour combination and available in a limited edition run of 50 pieces.

A hydro-mechanical masterpiece from a brand well worthy of your attention. hytwatches.com

- 47 -

- sty le a dv i c e -

Words – Scott Manson

Gaziano & Girling Dean Girling and Tony Gaziano, co-directors of bespoke and benchmade shoemakers Gaziano & Girling, on the importance of classic styling

well heeled A trio of footwear experts reveal the best ways to treat your feet

- 49 -

“Gaziano & Girling’s objective has always been to create the finest men’s shoes in the world, mixing Italian lines and comfort with great British craft and tradition. Achieving this goal not only takes immense dedication, but also a zero-compromise approach to shoemaking.

Gaziano & Girling designs are unique.

Trends are not so important for us, because we make timeless, elegant classics. We strive to strike the right balance between modern and classic design, reinventing the classics with a contemporary twist for men who demand something new but not overly stylised.

Our shoes are made entirely in our factory in Kettering, Northamptonshire, where our expert team of 20 highly trained craftsmen dedicate their time and energy under direct supervision from Tony and myself.

We follow a classic design trend, one that man has followed for centuries and one that will always be in demand. Our shoe designs have longevity for a man’s wardrobe.

Gaziano & Girling would like to think we are renowned for producing timeless, classic men’s shoes that will be fashionable for ever; essentials for every man’s wardrobe.” gazianogirling.com

- sty le a dv i c e -

The Left Shoe Company Christian Haugaard, director at The Left Shoe Company UK, on how to crown your look with the perfect pair of shoes for the occasion

Foster & Son Richard Edgecliff-Johnson, chairman, reveals the craftsmanship behind a pair of fine shoes

“If there are two things you should spend money on, it’s your bed and your shoes: if you are not in one, then you are in the other. As well having the right look, the right shoe size makes the day at the office or that evening at a party go that much easier.

Working in luxury retail all my life, I see that people will take immense care of their look when it comes to the suit, but often disregard the final touch: the shoes. The right pair of shoes will elevate any look; the wrong pair will make you appear disorganised.

The UK tradition that black is the shoe to wear in town is changing, and over the last 10 years – with the influence of more Italian styling – we are now seeing more colours (i.e. brown) even in the Square Mile.

In terms of what style to wear with what shoe, it’s trickier. In the City, a classic cap toe would be my choice. Whether it’s an Oxford or a Derby shoe is less important for the look and more important for the comfort of your feet.

If you have a high instep or use an orthotic insert, the Derby style is better, as the lacing is made of two separate pieces, allowing you to regulate the pressure. If you have a flat foot or very low instep, the Oxford shoe is recommended as the lacing on the facing narrows in to a point, restricting your foot movement and preventing a forward slide into the shoe.” leftshoecompany.com

“The famous tailor Henry Poole once commented to the effect that: ‘Once a man has equipped himself with a beautiful pair of bespoke shoes, his first priority is to come to Savile Row and order a hand made suit’.

We agree that a good pair of shoes is the essential foundation for any man who wants to consider himself well dressed. The way a man carries himself is vital to his appearance, and we believe that a top quality pair of English leather shoes will look wonderful, promote good posture and, together with that Savile Row suit, encourage a relaxed and confident style.

Foster & Son and Henry Maxwell are the oldest established of the London bespoke shoemakers, and with a combined total of 438 years’trading they represent the epitome of classic English style. Our bespoke shoes are made in our 83 Jermyn Street craft workshop with impeccable attention to detail using the same methods as centuries ago. They will take nine months to make, but quality cannot be rushed, and the end result is unique to each customer.

The bespoke commissioning process is similar to your Savile Row tailor’s: the shoemaker guides the customer through the various styles,

- 50 -

leathers and decorations required, and then a wooden last is crafted to the precise fit of the customer’s feet and the aesthetic profile of the shoe. Every part of the shoe is then made by hand by our experienced shoemakers using the highest quality leathers we can find. Making shoes that look just right for you and also carry forward the reputation that our skilled craftspeople have inherited from generation to generation requires a long apprenticeship and dedication.

Bespoke shoes may seem to be expensive on first glance, but looked after properly they will reward you with comfort and pleasure over many years. We even have customers wearing their father’s shoes, bringing them back home to be repaired on the original last after decades of use.

We also bring our classic design aesthetic to bear in offering a more affordable access to our bespoke heritage through our range of ready-to-wear shoes made to our exacting specifications in Northampton.

A wide range of other leather goods can also be made to your commission or selected from our stock ranges.” foster.co.uk

t rm avael - -g er n watc h es -

Words – Scott Manson

Teutonic timekeepers Roll over, Switzerland? Its northern neighbour is proving an increasingly popular choice on the wrists of the well-heeled. Here, Tempus gets under the skin of Germany’s most desirable horological creations

- 53 -

- g er m a n watc h es -

T

hink of high-end timekeeping and most people will cite Switzerland as the mecca of haute horology. However, over the last 20 years or so, watch experts have increasingly been buying up pieces from its northern neighbour, Germany.

On the face of it, Germany’s watchmaking prowess shouldn’t come as much of a surprise. The country already dominates the holy trinity of football, motoring and beer and, mostly thanks to the industrious watchmakers based in the sleepy towns of Pforzheim and Glashütte, it now boasts a respected timepiece industry, too.

German Peter Hele invented the first mainspring and even assembled the first known portable timepiece in 1504, decades before watchmaking commenced in Zurich. However, WWII saw many German watchmakers shut down, and it wasn’t until the reunification of Germany in the 1990s that some iconic brands were revived. Chief among these

was A. Lange & Söhne – the most prestigious name among German watchmakers – which was relaunched in 1990 by the late Günter Blümlein, who relaunched the brand with a descendant of founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange: his great-grandson, Walter Lange.

Between this renaissance of great German watchmaking names and the rise of younger, upstart brands, the country has quickly gained a reputation for superb engineering and craftsmanship, particularly in the field of metalworking, with watch cases renowned for their durability and precision tolerances. The innovative movement manufactures of Glashütte, combined with its rich history of delicate and difficult decoration, has seen the number of its watchmaking workers swell to 1,200 people – staggering when you consider the population of the entire town is only around 7,000.

Complex, beautiful and desirable – a fine German watch should be in every timepiece aficionado’s collection.

- 54 -

German brands of note

- g er m a n watc h es -

MeisterSinger Designed in Münster, Germany, and made in Switzerland Founded in 2001 Head designer and founder of MeisterSinger, Manfred Brassler, places great emphasis on the German traits of quality and service. Watches are incredibly well-produced with an emphasis on simplicity – when they have additional functions, the standard movement is usually stripped down. The single-hand Paleograph references the early days of watchmaking, using a single button to control the chronograph function to go with its signature single-hand time display. meistersinger.net

A. Lange & Söhne Glashütte, Germany Founded in 1845 Offering superb craftsmanship – the company’s very finest products are generally given the coveted ‘1A’ designation – the Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time, seen here in rose gold, illustrates the skill the company is known for by integrating a resonant chiming mechanism. Three high-pitched chimes and one lower-pitched tone announce each passing quarter and full hour. The company prides itself on ensuring even the small details are perfect, with every part of their movements, visible or not, decorated with its own finissage technique. alange-soehne.com

- g er m a n watc h es -

Hanhart GĂźtenbach, Germany Founded in 1882 Hanhart has a long history in the watchmaking world, celebrating many technical landmarks over the last century.

The company set the bar in the 1930s with its first chronograph model which soon became its signature design and, determined to stay ahead of the curve, Hanhart debuted its stopwatches in the 1950s, quickly becoming market leaders.

Now, it is focusing on design and quality, basing current models on the chronographs that made the brand famous. The Pioneer pilot’s watches are particularly fine, as are its beautiful new Racer models. hanhart.com

- 56 -

Lasting values crafted by masters.

The name “Meister” has stood for classic watchmaking at Junghans since 1936. The Meister watches of today follow in this tradition, for they are a result of both passion for precision and close attention to quality. Choosing a Junghans Meister demonstrates appreciation for these values and for beautiful watchmaking – like our sporty Meister, the Meister Telemeter.

www.junghans.co.uk · info@thebluecompanylondon.co.uk

- g er m a n watc h es -

Junghans Founded in 1861 Schramberg, Germany For over 100 years, Junghans has consistently produced innovative, well-crafted timepieces. It was the first company to introduce quartz wristwatches to Germany in 1970 and unveiled the world’s first radio-controlled watch, the Mega 1, in 1990. The company’s most popular ranges – the Aerious Chronoscope, Tempus and Creator lines – all feature in-house movements.

Junghans’ focus on technological distinctiveness continues to result in original and desirable timepieces, as shown by a recent partnership with Bogner, a German skiwear brand. The result is a range of highly technical sports watches, which are renowned for their robust qualities. Its Meister line is particularly significant, as the styling pays tribute to the brand’s early 20th-century models while combining that aesthetic with a modern dress watch appeal. junghans.de

Nomos Glashütte Founded in 1990 Glashütte, Germany Another resident of the famous town of Glashütte, Nomos is best-known for the utilitarian chic of its Bauhaus-inspired watch faces and simple, yet elegant, designs.

Over the years, Nomos has become a respected manufacturer, building its own movements from scratch and, most recently, producing an in-house escapement for its new Metro model.

The Nomos Zurich World Timer (pictured) remains one of the best value for money dual time mechanical watches on the market. nomos-glashuette.com

- 58 -

- g er m a n watc h es -

Kudoke Founded in 2007 Frankfurt, Germany Stefan Kudoke was awarded a master craftsman certificate in watchmaking at the age of 22 and began his career working for Glash端tte Original, developing prototypes and working on mechanical complications. This was followed by stints at Breguet, Blancpain and Omega before launching his eponymous brand, building exceptional, one-of-a-kind mechanical masterpieces.

The Real Skeleton pictured here is a case in point, with its wonderfully gothic appearance comprising a gold skull with diamond eyes and bone-shaped black rhodium-plated hands. Every element has been hand-finished, making for a wonderfully witty take on a skeleton watch. kudoke.eu

- 59 -

- g er m a n watc h es -

Sinn Founded in 1961 Frankfurt, Germany German pilot Helmut Sinn began making watches for aviators after being annoyed by the high cost of pilot’s watches. His brand quickly made a name for itself by creating top quality watches at affordable prices.

Among some of its best innovations is the Diapal, the first watch escapement made with no lubricant. Sinn owners appreciate their high level of performance, their robustness and durability, as well as the quality and precision of the timepieces.

As you can see from the Sinn 6000 in rose gold (pictured), they look fabulous, too. Quite simply, some of the best tool watches around. sinn.de

- 60 -

A ďŹ ne timepiece deserves a ďŹ ne home

Full range of Single and Multi watch winders available at barringtonwatchwinders.com 0800 9557033

Pilot‘s Rule Number One: Follow your instruments.

Model EZM 9 TESTAF. Tested and certified for professional usage to the technical standard for pilot’s watches. Case made of highstrength, bead-blasted titanium. Extremely scratch-resistant thanks to TEGIMENT Technology. Sapphire crystal glass. Ar-Dehumidifying Technology, ensuring greater functional reliability and condensation protection. Functionally reliable from – 45°C to + 80°C. Captive rotary pilot’s bezel with sapphire crystal glass and minute ratcheting. Matt-black dial. Indices, hands and bezel markings coated with luminous paint. Pressure-resistant to 20 bar (= 200 m water depth). Resistant to low pressure. Wingspan: 44 mm, fuselage height: 12 mm, take-off weight: 71 g. From Euro 2,950 with leather strap. Pilot‘s Rule Number Two: Trust the German engineering.

Im Füldchen 5 - 7 · 60489 Frankfurt /Main · Telefon +49 (0) 69 97 84 14 200 · www.sinn.de · vertrieb@sinn.de

t rm avael - -g er n watc h es -

Schaumburg Rinteln, Germany Founded in 1998 This boutique watch house combines a broad range with outstanding quality control, making for a brilliant buy for any watch collector. Its Moon No 1 and No 2 models offer a movement complicated enough to calculate an Astron rotation for 27.3217 days, rather than the simple 27.5 days which lesser moonphase timepieces are known for, plus a wonderful lumed moonphase indicator and, on the Grand Perpetual Moon Meteorite model, a dial crafted from asteroid fragments.

The Retrolateur, with its two retrograde second-dials, is also a stunning piece of work.

A must-check watch brand. schaumburgwatch.com

- 63 -

outstandingcufflinkdesigns.co.uk Stockists include: Graham & Co. Farnham 01252 724606

Green + Benz. Sheffield 0114 270 6366

Mark Adam. Royal Tunbridge Wells 01892 616 617

Berry’s Jewellers. Windsor 01753 840930

Mallory. Bath 01225 788 800

Martin & Co. Cheltenham 01242 522 821

- J ew ellery -

Words – Laura McCreddie

Going for bespoke Unique: c’est chic. Identikit is out. An exclusive Fairtrade piece is in. Here’s your guide to the best jewellery brands making an individual statement

- 65 -

- J ew ellery -

I

t used to be the case that buying jewellery, especially at the upper price echelons, was relatively simple. You went to Bond Street, walked into whichever store you had been directed to (taking into account here the long-held assumption that men purchased, while women received) and bought whatever everyone else was wearing. Cartier’s Love bracelet. Anything

by Elsa Perretti from Tiffany & Co. Gucci’s Horsebit designs. Basically, whatever was doing the rounds at the country club.

Unfortunately for the beleaguered husband, but fortunately for the rest of the industry, this just isn’t the case anymore.

Being a sheep is out; it’s the lone wolf (to torture this animal analogy further) people want to emulate when it comes to buying jewellery. The trend for individualism has seen a real boom in young design talent getting recognition and has also forced established names to emphasis their bespoke elements.

“The trend for consumers wanting a more bespoke jewellery piece feeds into their desire

Melanie Georgacopoulos

Melanie Georgacopoulos

- 66 -

for personalisation,” explains Juliet HuttonSquire, co-founder of Adorn Insight, the jewellery trends analysis agency. “At a global level we are seeing this trend manifest and develop. In addition, the vogue for upcycling means that consumers across the board are becoming quite savvy.”

And this means that independent designers who have the flexibility to customise and personalise are now who people turn to when they want to purchase something special.

“I believe the greatest trend around at the moment is to have something unique and deeply personal to that particular individual,” explains Hattie Rickards, a British jewellery designer making a name for herself with riotously coloured gemstone pieces that blend aesthetics and ethics. (She uses Fairtrade Fairmined gold.) “Most of my clients are coming to me for an interesting and desirable design. A lot of ground gets covered in the design process, which results in an incredibly personal and bespoke piece.”

Melanie Georgacopoulos feels she has also benefited from this interest in seeking out designers who offer a unique perspective, especially considering she makes edgy conceptual jewellery out of that “twinset and tweed” brigade’s gemstone of choice – pearls.

She has also noticed that this leaning towards the different has had an effect on what the jewellery is being made from.

“There seems to be increasing demand for multicoloured gemstone pieces, a step away from the traditional popularity of diamonds and gold,” she says. “I feel that the colours and the variety of shapes and textures that gemstones bring to the table allows for more experimentation and fun to be had when designing high-end jewellery, resulting in more interesting and unique pieces.”

-J ew ellery -

Tessa Packard Swarm Necklace

Tessa Packard Fire Wasp Earrings Interesting is certainly one word you would use to describe Tess Packard’s jewellery.

This designer, and Tatler Bystander regular, definitely doesn’t think that fine jewellery should be an exercise in restraint. Her first collection, Mexicana, was inspired, as the name suggests, by the vivid palette and spiky geometric patterns of Mexico, while her newest, Predator/Prey, launching in Autumn, is adorned with wasps.

One thing that Packard has also showed is that the man on the street is looking beyond the big four when it comes to buying gemstones, partly because jewellers are more open to using them, but also because people are more clued up.

Tessa Packard Cocktail Sting Ring

- 67 -

“There will always be a market and a desire for the big four, but among my clients I am certainly seeing a greater desire for and admiration of other semi-precious stones, such as aquamarines, tourmalines, black sapphires, as well as an increased demand for contemporary pearl jewellery,” says Packard.

“I would say that jewellers are also more open to using lesser-known semi-precious stones – such as chrysoprase, sodalite, aventurine and chrysocolla – with more confidence and frequency than ever before.”

It is not just the stones that people are looking at more closely – slowly but surely the jewellery industry is having to address the question of the ethical provenance of its gold.

- J ew ellery -

- 68 -

Teresa Packard

BLACK AS COAL AND CLEAR AS LIGHT The awarded jewlery design C6

by Anne Cohen is handmade in Denmark and combines the element C6, better known as carbon in its two most opposing forms, carbon fiber and diamonds.

The unique setting of the diamond directly in the carbon ring, mirrors the simplicity of life and the timeless power of the elements.

C6.DK

- J ew ellery -

Hattie Rickards Sapphire Diamond Pave Ring

Chopard Green Carpet Earrings

Among the big-name brands, it is Chopard that is leading the charge. Last year it launched its Green Carpet collection, in association with Livia Firth, whose company Eco-Age brokered the relationships with the NGOs, which saw stars such as Marion Cotillard and Cate Blanchett take to Cannes’ red carpet wearing pieces made from Fairmined gold and ethical diamonds.

It was actually at the Oscars in 2011 when Firth – between celebrating her husband’s win – fell into conversation with Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of Chopard.

“I asked where she bought her gold and she said, ‘From the bank, of course – oh…’,” explains Firth. “As soon as she said it, she realised what I was implying. And it wasn’t long after the Oscars that I got the call back from Caroline, saying she’d been thinking hard about our conversation and that she wanted to do something with us. We are so proud because they didn’t need to change, but they wanted to.”

But it’s not just those with the bank balance of Chopard who are getting involved. Smaller brands and designers are also offering collections in Fairtrade, Fairmined gold.

“I believe that it is my duty to provide my clients with traceable supply chains, knowledge of origin and a guarantee that they know their piece of jewellery has been mined in a responsible manner,” explains Rickard.

“Customers are now wanting to know more before they purchase, especially for big and important pieces such as engagement rings.

Fairtrade gold provides the client with this reassurance and trust.”

With jewellery, as with many industries, big faceless brands are slowly losing their grip on their customers’ wallets. In an age where we can’t trust our own government not to sell our secrets to the highest bidder, we seek out the independents, businesses where we can interact with a human being. It also makes that transaction, the handing over of money, seem less like those that occur in hotel rooms that charge by the hour.

The poor beleaguered husband will no longer be able to just resort to buying whatever all the other wives are adorning themselves with this year, but this is a good thing.

Where we once had ubiquity, it’s now all about the unique.

Chopard Green Carpet Earrings

- 70 -

-J ew ellery -

Under the radar

Up-and-coming designers of note Fernando Jorge Sculptural, elegant but with an edge, Fernando Jorge has been shaking up the world of fine jewellery with his creations.

This Brazilian-born designer is making a name for himself with jewellery that has a real sensuality. He divides his time between London and São Paulo, uses locally sourced gemstones and minerals, and has been lauded as one of the brightest talents in jewellery at the moment. fernandojorge.co.uk Jo Hayes Ward Proving that fine jewellery doesn’t have to always mean “covered in precious stones”, Jo Hayes Ward’s pieces create the wow factor through her building block approach.

Each piece looks like a little architectural marvel built from these tiny elements, which catch the light and – like her gold orbs that, on closer inspection, reveal themselves to be a filigree of cubes – both delight and confound the eye. johayesward.com Sophie Breitmeyer With a grandfather who was a diamond dealer at De Beers, there really was only one career for Sophie Breitmeyer. Her designs are delicate and feminine: she uses pearls a lot, but with an edge that elevates them from pretty to desirable. Vogue Italia called her “a new talent to watch” – and they tend to know what they are talking about. sophiebreitmeyer.com

Chopard Green Carpet Watch

- 71 -

10

- J ew ellery -

of the

best

Scott Manson selects his edit of current hot jewellery brands

Augustine Jewels This British luxury jewellery brand combines hand-selected gems with handmade pieces by craftsmen based in the capital, resulting in exquisite workmanship.

Each collection is inspired by a destination, representing the colours and beauty of each location. All the gems are ethically sourced and every design is overseen by company founder Alexandra Morris, a trained diamond grader and graduate of Paris’s Esmod School of Design.

Of note for 2014 is the Christmas Cuff – an 18ct gold cuff with an emerald-cut citrine stone and two natural round brilliant-cut rubies. Classic, modern and highly wearable. augustinejewels.com

D2 UK Created by a team of European designers and crafted by master jewellery technicians, D2 UK’s fine pieces include the diamondencrusted Citrin Set, inspired by the earthy tones of Marrakech; the Onyx set, combining onyx and diamonds; and the beautiful Opal Set, with its elegant earrings, pendants and rings. d2ukjewellery.com

- 72 -

W W W. D 2 U K J E W E L L E R Y. C O M Designs Dubai UK Fashion Ltd., Peninsula Centre, 67 Mody Rd., 6th Floor, Rm 618, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Knowloon, Hong Kong Tel: +852 23122100 Mob: +852 94631642 Email: info@d2ukjewellery.com Dubai Branch: Designs UK Fashion FZE, PO Box 939006, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 509848678 / +971 506564567 UK Design Team Tel: +44 7788444342

-J ew ellery -

Anna Moltke-Huitfeldt The first Danish jeweller to be Fairtrade-certified on precious metals, Anna Moltke-Huitfeldt’s search for sustainably sourced gems provides her customers with the security of knowing that the raw materials for their precious jewellery have been sourced in respect for those who mined it and for the earth itself. The designs of her rings, necklaces, earrings, cufflinks and bracelets are inspired by architecture, life, art, philosophy and the endless beauty of nature. It’s the perfection of nature, such as the famous golden ratio, that fascinates this innovative designer and that faultlessness can be seen in everything she produces. moltke-huitfeldt.com

Tuum Taking their inspiration from their native Umbria, Italian designers Michele Alberti and Simone Finocchi have created a beautiful unisex collection of rings, bracelets and necklaces. While all the pieces are fabulous examples of great craftsmanship, Tempus’ number one choice are the Latin-inscribed rings with the text written in a relief aesthetic, using an elaborate casting technique.

The necklaces are also very special and feature symbols such as a heart, flower or angel.

True conversation pieces for connoisseurs. tuum.it

Misahara For a relatively new jewellery brand, Misahara is incredibly self-assured. Still only three years old, it has been launched in boutiques around the world and its eclectic, luxurious jewels are worn everywhere from the beaches of St. Tropez to the restaurants of Russia.

Designer and co-founder Lepa Roskopp combined her love of fashion with inspirational ideas she picked up while travelling to create fabulous jewellery lines such as the sea, sky and sunset-influenced Adriatic Collection. Every piece she designs is a thing of rare beauty. misahara.com

- 75 -

- J ew ellery -

Livyora New fine jewellery brand Livyora recently launched in the UK, showcasing its collections to Tempus at Jewellery & Watch London at the Saatchi Gallery.

The brand, founded by entrepreneur Chirdeep Chhabra and corporate venture specialist Dr. Shefaly Yogendra, is based around the idea of storytelling through jewellery.

We particularly enjoyed its Vita collection, with pieces crafted in 18ct gold and set with gemstones such as sapphires, tsavorites, citrines and black diamonds. All its designs are handmade in India and embody the cultural fluidity that typifies fine Indian jewellery. livyora.com

Anne Cohen Now these C6 rings caused a bit of kerfuffle when we first caught sight of them in the Tempus office. Generally, the only jewellery most of the office males wear is a good watch and a wedding ring, but the clean, pure carbon lines of these ‘stealth’ pieces saw every team member itching to get their hands on one.

Wonderful work from this Danish designer. annecohen.dk

Nsouli Founded in Lebanon in 1982, and a favoured fine jewellery brand throughout the Middle East, Nsouli offers a wide selection of ranges to suit all tastes and occasions, including the Rare Gem Collection – comprising diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald pieces – plus the show-stopping Royal Collection, designed for big occasions, plus more contemporary offerings. Sheer brilliance. nsoulijewelry.com

- 76 -

LONDON

-J ew ellery -

Boudici Billing itself as ‘everyday luxury’, this London-based jewellery brand recently raised the bar by appointing Ivonna Poplanska – probably best known for designing a Diamond Jubilee brooch for The Queen – as a creative director. Sleek design, impeccable craftsmanship and an eye for detail are what marks out this ‘ready to wear’ jeweller as one to watch.

The diamond clover mini locket is a perfect example of the brand’s signature style. boudici.com

Outstanding Cufflinks Designs Lee Graham, founder of Outstanding Cufflink Designs, produces unique, luxury cufflinks that, in truth, are more than just cufflinks – they’re tactile objects resulting from several years of development. A former diamond mounter at Graff, Lee also creates bespoke pieces for private clients, applying special finishes and colours that often reflect what’s hot in terms of watch trends. Look out for lots of rose gold and matte black right now. A singular look that will always be in style. outstandingcufflinkdesigns.co.uk

- 79 -

- 80 -

- t r av el -

Words – Scott Manson

Continental shift Things are set to get even hotter in Africa, as a host of top hotel brands target the continent for expansion

- 81 -

- t r av el -

I

n a continent already known for its superlatives – longest river; largest desert; highest precious metal reserves – the numbers around its fast-growing tourist industry are staggering.

From the $1.5bn that the Marriot Group and its construction partners plan to invest in Africa by 2015, to the 300 hotels that are estimated to be opened by international hotel groups on the continent in the next five years, and the six per cent economic growth that the IMF forecasts for sub-Saharan Africa in 2014, it’s a place that has upmarket travel brands clamouring for a stake in its emerging markets.

Although previously regarded as too unstable, too poor or, indeed, too dangerous to deal with, Africa will now see US and European operators such as Ritz-Carlton, Four Seasons, Hyatt and Kempinski buying and launching hundreds of hotels there in the next few years, an increase of 30 per cent by 2018.

So, what is driving this scramble for Africa?

The most basic answer is profit. The consumer boom and investment growth in Nigeria, for example – where luxury brands such as Porsche and Ermenegildo Zegna have opened outlets recently – is reflective of the opportunities on offer across the continent. Indeed, one forecast predicts that Nigeria’s GDP will hit $5tn by 2050, which would be on a par with Japan today as the world’s third-biggest economy.

For the Four Seasons group, however, it’s about offering luxury travellers something truly special, rather than making a fast buck from a continent developing at a breakneck pace.

Its Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti in Tanzania is the first investment in Africa by a brand better known for its plush city hotels.

Todd Cilano, Four Seasons’ regional vicepresident, responsible for special projects in Africa, says that the group has been keen to expand into Africa for a long time.

“The continent offers such a diverse landscape, with scenery and wildlife that are truly aweinspiring and that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world. We have been fortunate to secure strong partners in the region, who share our approach and who are, like us, excited to be developing in such a key continent,” he says.

Africa now has upmarket travel brands clamouring for a stake in its emerging markets

- 82 -

- t r av el -

This page and overleaf: a grand tour of the Four Seasons Africa, inside and out, finding luxury at every turn from dawn till dusk

- 83 -

- t r av el -

However, Cilano admits that Africa can be a tough place to operate, not least because its vast size presents logistical challenges.

“This is also a relatively new region for us,” he says, “and as with any destination that we have moved into over the past decades, it takes time to acquire the operational experience of each location and to discover how the need of each property can be met in the most effective way.

“That said, Africa’s improved economic growth and stability has resulted in a greater ease of access for travellers. With more opportunities to explore the region, travellers are eager to discover all that this incredible continent has to offer.”

Besides the lodge in the Serengeti National Park, Cilano reveals that Four Seasons will also open a new hotel in Johannesburg later this year, set in a spectacular cliff-side location in the northern suburbs of the city. The Tanzania expansion will also continue with the opening of a luxury tented safari camp in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

As well as a lodge in the Serengeti, Four Seasons is also opening a new hotel in Johannesburg

“As we look to secure these key footholds in the continent, we also continue to explore further opportunities for growth within Africa,” says Cilano.

The level of overseas investment has also prompted African operators to create new locally-owned brands that are boutique, but still channel an unmistakeably African aesthetic.

In the economic hub of Nairobi, for example, the 156-room, five star Sankara Nairobi has recently opened the city’s first rooftop champagne bar, which has proved as popular with locals as it has with business travellers.

- 84 -

A promise.

The Bad Ragaz thermal water‘s soothing powers meet every guest‘s needs at our 36.5° Wellbeing & Thermal Spa. Everything flows and nothing remains, apart from the constant change and ongoing transformation. Leave your everyday life behind and immerse yourself in your personal source of wellbeing.

Switzerland – www.resortragaz.ch

YOU CAN TELL A GOOD WATCH

BY ITS HEART. The most important element of a genuine Armin Strom is the movement. Not only is it where the work begins, it is also at the heart of the design. This means that everybody who checks the time will always see the beauty of the technology. arminstrom.com

TOURBILLON WATER

MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ATC11 16½‘‘‘

- t r av el -

There has never been a better time to enjoy a luxurious, authentic African experience

- 87 -

- t r av el -

Elsewhere, the US giant, Hyatt, which has just taken over the Kilimanjaro hotel in Dar es Salaam, also has hotels planned for Zanzibar, Arusha and Senegal, while the Geneva-based Kempinski group is opening properties in Ghana and Equatorial Guinea.

The key issue for anyone launching on the continent is to work closely with the local community and provide an authentic experience for guests. Slick, identikit chain hotels just don’t work in Africa, says Liza Quddoos, director of corporate communications for Cenizaro Hotels & Resorts. The group owns and operates the ultra-luxury Residence hotels in Tunis, Mauritius and Zanzibar, building a reputation as a trusted, award-winning brand in Africa.

“On a local level, we have managed to turn potential challenges into positives by investing in the local community and providing secure jobs for our staff,” she says.

Like many other international operators in Africa, the brand is expanding, with two new Tunisian properties set to open soon. The first

in the south - a new desert resort in Douz, the gateway to the Sahara, and a smaller, boutique hotel in the heart of the Tunis Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

“In terms of where we open, it’s a combination of lots of factors – it has to be the right site, at the right time, with the right opportunities,” says Quddoos. “We choose sites that we believe will bring rewarding and authentic experiences to our guests – experiences that highlight the culture, flavour and people of the destination.

Each property is built to ensure that the local feel and individual character is not lost.”

- 88 -

- t r av el -

Investors are viewing the continent in the same way they did China or India 10 years ago

It helps, too, that the governments have removed a lot of the bureaucracy and high taxes that previously deterred investors. They used to have to partner with local businesses; now they can own their operations 100 per cent. That said, luxury African travel destinations such as Sir Richard Branson’s Mahali Mzuri camp in the Maasai Mara ensured they kept up a dialogue with local landowners during construction, so everyone would benefit from its opening.

Africa is arguably the one region that was left behind during the global development of the last 20 years. Now, with its fast-growing middle class and high demand for the still limited amount of quality hospitality, investors are viewing the continent in the same way they did China or India 10 years ago. With the fastest pace of hotel development in the world, there has never been a better time to enjoy a luxurious, but still authentic, African experience.

Clockwise from top left: the Residence, Mauritius; Mahali Mzuri (top right, right and below right); two views of the Hyatt, Dar es Salaam

- 89 -

THE ULTIMATE LUXURY GOLF AND LEISURE CAR Driven by our passion for golf

BUBBA WATSON has upgraded his previous golf cart to a customized Garia. Watch the video at www.garia.com

Garia is a unique vehicle, combining the convenience of a golf and leisure car with the experience of exquisite luxury. It is available in street legal, non-street legal, 4-passenger and roadster versions.

Customize it to your preferences using parts from our Garia Mansory Accessory Program - just like the five time PGA Tour winner Bubba Watson.

Book a test drive or design your own Garia at www.garia.com

- c h r i sto p h er wa r d -

Words – Scott Manson

Talking about a revolution “The best-value watch brand in the world”, Christopher Ward, keeps challenging industry standards and raising the bar for quality. Co-owner Mike France spells out the MO

- 91 -

From its launch in 2004, British watch brand Christopher Ward has always done things differently, subverting timepiece industry standards such as big budget marketing spends in favour of an all-online retail approach, resulting in quality mechanical timepieces that sell at an outstandingly reasonable price.

After recently celebrating a decade in watchmaking, the brand’s founders – Mike France, Chris Ward and Peter Ellis – wowed the horological world with the brand’s first ‘in-house’-powered mechanical timepiece, the C9 Harrison 5-Day Automatic.

Featuring an impressive 120-hour power reserve (achieved by using twin barrels) the new Calibre SH21 is a collaboration with Swiss movement developers Synergies Horlogères. Interestingly, rather than adapt an existing calibre (as many watchmakers do), the two partners looked to combine the reliability of industry stalwarts such as ETA’s Valjoux 7750 with a fully flexible platform capable of carrying further complications in the future.

It’s not the first time that the brand has set watchmaking standards. A patent is currently pending for the brand’s master watchmaker Johannes Jahnke’s ingenious calibre JJ03 Worldtimer. By modifying the gearing, Jahnke has enabled both time zones to function on a 24-hour basis, unlike the usual variant of one at 12 hours and only the GMT hand rotating once every 24 hours.

The dial also features a full world map and a clever airport-code/map dot system.

With watches retailing at roughly half the cost of similarly specced models from better-known brands, it’s little wonder that Christopher Ward is a genuine British success story. We caught up with co-owner Mike France to find out more.

- c h r i sto p h er wa r d -

Given the rapid success of Christopher Ward, do you have a key business philosophy you can share?

Do you remember the brilliant Avis car rental advertising campaign of the 1970s, with the strapline ‘We try harder’? The gist of the campaign was Avis admitting that they were number two to Hertz’s number one – and therefore they had to work harder for their customers. Well, that’s where we’re at.

Christopher Ward isn’t the world’s biggest watch brand, so we work hard to provide the very best for our customers. Also, in the words of former Avis CEO Robert Townsend, a good business maxim is: “If you’re not in business for fun and profit, then what are you doing here?”

AD

- 92 -

- c h r i sto p h er wa r d -

What have been your career highs so far?

Our first watch releases in June 2005 – the C5 Malvern Automatic and C3 Malvern Chronograph – for sure. We then followed the release up with some press advertising which helped to kick sales off, but we realised that sales were coming in from all over the world only a few months after launch. We wondered what had made the overseas sales tick up so rapidly.

Around the same time we received a phone call from Hàns van Hoogstraten who asked us if we like to set up an independent Christopher Ward online forum. He explained that he had been a member of a big watch forum called TimeZone but had recently been banned from there because he, and lots of other site visitors, had been talking so much about our brand that the site moderator thought they were being paid to do so, in order to generate PR. It turned out that sales had snowballed after one Dave Malone had seen one of our adverts and bought a watch, his intention being to expose us as frauds as we couldn’t possibly be selling a watch of this quality for the price.

After dissecting the watch, he was astonished to find our claims were true and he posted an amazingly complimentary post on TimeZone, describing us as the best-value watch brand in the world. This is what generated all the great PR and, ultimately, translated to the growth in international sales.

Yours is a non-traditional background for a watch brand founder.

Yes, I’m essentially a retailer. I bought the Early Learning Centre, turned the business around and sold it in 2004. Unfortunately, I was bored after a month so I started to look for another opportunity. It had to be an online model, no stores, and something that was universally acceptable and of relatively high value. This meant either jewellery or watches.

My business partner Peter Ellis had known the watchmaker Christopher Ward for a long time and we started to discuss working together. When we realised that famous watch brands sell for around 35 to 37 times their cost price – an immoral mark-up, in my opinion –

we knew that we could give consumers access to world-class manufacturing at a fraction of the cost.

How exciting was it for you to launch your own movement?

It’s a tremendous achievement – we are now masters of our own destiny. It took us around 25 months to develop it, and our watchmaker Johannes Jahnke has cleverly built it in a modular system so we can add complications, such as a GMT or chrono, to it easily.

Do you see yourself as part of a resurgence in British watchmaking?

Not really, because our movements are made in Switzerland. It’s the only place that can guarantee the quality and volume we need.

That said, I have the highest regard for Roger Smith and the work of the late George Daniels, and I believe that the UK could lead the way in watchmaking, provided we have a strong base of trainee watchmakers coming through.

And by a watchmaker, I mean someone who can build a movement from scratch.

The only way we will see another development like Daniels’ co-axial technology is by training watchmakers to master all 34 steps of watchmaking. Even the WOSTEP training doesn’t teach you the full art of watchmaking – it’s run by watch brands looking to train experts in specific areas, rather than how to build a movement from A to Z. Finally, having achieved so much already, what’s the next step for Christopher Ward?

We’ll be adding complications to our new movement and will continue to produce beautiful watches. If anything, we’re still at the start of our journey. My motto is that you don’t relax until the brand has been solid for 25 years. If you have quality product though, you always have a chance for success. christopherward.co.uk

- 93 -

It’s not about having time.

It’s about making time.

We can offer you the ultimate luxury of more time to spend any way you choose. Travel at times that suit you, to and from the most convenient airports, in control of every element of your journey.

Chapman Freeborn has been providing attentive yet discreet private air charter solutions for four decades. Our multilingual charter experts are available 24/7/365 worldwide, offering the full range of aircraft that can be carefully matched to your requirements.

For advice or a quote for your next trip, call us on +44 (0)1293 572888, email us at vipteam@chapman-freeborn.com or visit us at www.chapman-freeborn.com

- t r av el -

Words – Scott Manson

From private jets to helicopter charter, and limo bikes to chauffeur hire – we highlight London’s best private transportation options

Limo Bike Initially set up by Richard Branson to look after the Virgin Upper Class passengers who were tired of sitting in traffic jams on the way to the airport, the idea proved so popular that it was eventually moved London-wide for anyone who required fast transportation. The Yamaha bikes have been fitted with a rear seat, plus an intercom system so you can speak to the driver and make calls en route. Passengers also get full protective clothing and even a rug for chillier days. All riders are members of the Institute of Advanced Motorcyclists virginlimobike.com

- 95 -

- t r av el -

PrivateFly Launched in 2007, PrivateFly is a global booking service for private jet charter and private aircraft hire, and is one of the fastest growing private aviation companies in Europe, combining award-winning booking technology with a dedicated 24/7 team of private aviation experts.

Its online platform and apps integrate with a live global network of over 7,000 accredited aircraft, to pinpoint the best available private aircraft at the most competitive, transparent market price. Typically, charters can be arranged within 90 minutes. privatefly.com

Battersea Helicopters Operating out of Battersea Heliport, the only CAA licensed heliport serving the City of London and one that boasts a new terminal and VIP lounge, Battersea Helicopters offers a range of nine helicopter types to suit all requirements.

Whether you want to fly to the centre of Paris or zip off to your country house, this service cuts out the London traffic, saving you time and stress. You get to enjoy a fabulous view of the capital, too. batterseahelicopters.co.uk

Limousines There are hundreds of limo hire companies out there but, for a wide range and, crucially, some unusual automotive options, Easy Limo is our number one choice for London. Customers can go for the traditional – the classic Lincoln, for example – or make a bolder statement with the company’s signature hot pink stretch Hummer H3. The latter comfortably seats eight people and includes a TV, sound system and complimentary bar. easylimo.co.uk

- 96 -

• Official Service Station for Agusta • A dedicated and professional team for an efficient follow-up after-sales

• The leading expert in providing safe and secure helicopter transportation • A specialized helicopter management team with a professional and discreet service • One of the most exciting European helicopter fleet for a unique service from its bases of Monaco, Geneva, Courchevel, Paris, St Tropez and Le Castellet

• A large fleet of single and twin engines helicopters for business transfers and VIP transportation • A dedicated helicopter management, from flight operation with a customized handling service to the maintenance support • The perfect helicopter/yacht interface to support yacht’s owners in helicopter management operation

MONACAIR

Héliport de Monaco Avenue des Ligures MC 98000 MONACO Phone: +377 97 97 39 00 info@monacair.mc

SKYCAM

Aéroport International du Castellet Hangar n°3, 3100 route des Hauts du Camp 83330 LE CASTELLET Phone: +33 4 94 98 39 92 info@skycam.fr

Hélistation Archamps International Business Park 74160 ARCHAMPS Phone: +33 4 50 39 85 21 info@skycam.fr

SKY MAINTENANCE SERVICES Aéroport International du Castellet RN8, 3100 route des Hauts du Camp 83330 LE CASTELLET Phone: +33 4 94 98 39 94 info@skymaintenanceservices.fr

www.skygroup.fr

ALPHAPRINT 06 - 04 93 14 91 65

A LEADING PLAYER IN THE HELICOPTER INDUSTRY

• Licensed Part 145 for Eurocopter and Agusta helicopter family

PART OF THE TITANIC-DNA COLLECTION, THE STEAMPUNK RED CHRONO RECALLS POWERFUL MECHANICAL INGENUITY. SWISS MADE, THIS RETRO-FUTURISTIC TIMEPIECE CONTAINS STEEL FROM THE WRECK OF THE LEGENDARY OCEAN LINER VISIBLE ON THE BEZEL.

www.romainjerome.ch

- m oto r i n g -

Be still, my

This Wraith – the closest thing to a sports car that Rolls-Royce has ever produced – unquestionably gets the blood pumping

- 102 -

- m oto r i n g -

Words – Scott Manson

Some people are worried about the difference between right and wrong. I’m more concerned about the difference between wrong and fun. I mention this because, on the face of it, treating a Rolls-Royce like a racing car feels slightly off-key. Chucking this big beast of a motor at speed through the tight curves of a country lane is at odds with the sedate, secure notion of what constitutes a Roller driving experience.The thing is, though, is that this is no ordinary Rolls-Royce.

It’s not just that the Wraith is the most powerful car in Rolls’ history but also the closest thing to a sports car that it has ever attempted to produce.

Think of it as 624 bhp gentleman’s GT – one that does 0-60 in 4.4 seconds, which is frankly outrageous for a car of this size.

Cruising down to Devon along the M5 is the perfect way to put the Wraith through its paces and, when I spy a clear stretch up ahead, I drop the accelerator and am genuinely staggered by the punch, my body pushed back into the embrace of the soft leather seats as the car rockets from 60mph to 90mph in the blink of an eye – all the while the dashboard’s power reserve indicator (there’s nothing as gauche as a rev counter in a Rolls, don’t you know) barely flickers. God knows what you have to do to take it down from 100 per cent to zero.

In brief Engine 6.6-litre twin-turbo V12 Top speed 155 mph 0-60 mph 4.4 seconds

- 103 -

Twin turbo-charged 12 cylinder sportiness aside, the car is as beautifully luxurious as you’d expect. There’s the polished open-grain wood that circles the cabin, the soft lambswool underfoot that saw me demanding a shoes-off policy from my passengers and, to the delight of my daughter, the illuminated starliner roof – an optional extra that gives the car a smart bit of Vegas-style razzmatazz.

There are also other delights, such as the secret umbrellas hidden in each door wing, which satisfyingly pop out at the touch of a button; infrared night vision technology; a heads-up display (including sat-nav projection); a monster sound system; and Satellite Aided Transmission (SAT), which cleverly adjusts the gears for the road ahead based on GPS data.

More than anything, though, there is the feeling of driving one of the finest cars on the planet. From the moment we parked at our Devon hotel, it attracted a crowd. Occasionally I’d look out from our window and, yep, sure enough there was a gaggle of people standing around taking selfies with the car. And who can blame them? She’s a head-turning beauty with grace, poise and, crucially, a monster engine that will give most supercars a run for their money. rolls-royce.com

Ferrari 250 GTO

Lamborghini Miura

SWISS ARTIST

presents a unique collectible 1:24 sculpture of the most famous iconic sports cars The Ferrari 250 GTO and the legendary Lamborghini Miura are the third and fourth in the award winning artist series of iconic sports cars after the Mercedes Benz 300SL and the Aston Martin DB5. The latest release is the Ford GT 40.

A limited edition of 50 pieces from each car will be made in solid silver finished with 24 karat gold.

One special edition of each iconic sports car will be made in solid gold of 18 karat finished with 24 karat gold.

Every art piece comes with a piano black lacquered case containing a solid silver USB Stick finished with 24 Karat gold, containing the certificate and a number of videos of Dante’s artwork.

Now available DANTE USB stick pure silver 46.5 g and 24 karat gold plated, supplied with a piano black lacquered case. The ultra-fast USB 3.0 stick has storage space for 64 GB of data.

Design by Dante GmbH | Murtenstr. 34 | CH-3202 Frauenkappelen | Switzerland | info@dantedesign.ch | www.dantedesign.ch

- t r av el -

Words – Scott Manson

Sitting on the dock of the bay Babbacombe – a jewel in the English Riviera’s crown – is fast becoming a premium weekend break destination As I reverse my car up a super-steep crooked one-lane track at a snail’s pace to allow another car to pass, I come to the conclusion, through bouts of bad-tempered muttering, that Devon’s roads just weren’t built with a Rolls-Royce in mind.

Let me explain: I’d been fortunate enough to be handed the keys to a Roller for the weekend (see review on page 102) and leapt at the opportunity to test drive it for

- 105 -

a long weekend at picture-postcard-perfect Babbacombe Bay in Devon, part of the rejuvenated English Riviera.

Bounded by Torquay to the south and Teignmouth to the north, Babbacombe Bay was once a place for cream tea-munching retirees, but it’s rapidly becoming a fashionable location for a premium weekend break.

But that’s not to say that the old guard – hen and stag parties; £30 a night B&B residents –

- t r av el -

aren’t there – it’s just that they are being joined here by a more upmarket crowd who are looking for accommodation and dining to match.

This is where the Cary Arms (above) comes in.

Set in a spectacular location beneath the cliffs on the beach at Babbacombe Bay, reached via that vertiginous, Rolls-Royce-challenging road, and owned by former Millwall FC owner turned hotelier Peter de Savary, this beautifully updated inn offers eight well-presented, sea view rooms and four upscale self-catering cottages.

We stayed in the latter category, the delightfully monikered Pebble Cottage to be precise, which offered a fabulous sea view, best enjoyed through the bathroom window while reclining in the slipper bathtub.

A couple of decent sized bedrooms, one with a vast super king-sized bed, a decent kitchen and cute lounge with a dangerously moreish pot of sweets on a side table completes the image of domestic bliss.

To be honest, the kitchen didn’t get much of a workout, bar the odd cup of tea, as the Cary Arms’ kitchen provided all of our culinary needs.

From brilliant full English breakfasts to light lunches and excellent dinners, we didn’t have a dud dish here in two days.

Best of all, the cleverly designed outside terrace area meant that, even when the area was full, its various nooks and crannies provided a feeling of intimacy for every table.

The prime spot was undoubtedly the ‘pod’ – a windproof glass sphere set in a picturesque spot overlooking the jetty. From here, cream tea in front of us, we watched local fisherman catch mackerel from the pier, while intrepid

teenagers threw themselves off the other side into the chilly sea below.

On a chillier evening we ate in the handsome dining room, enjoying a selection of simply cooked, seasonal dishes, but all done with a sense of style and panache that raised the Cary Arms above the standard gastropub fare.

From a groaning seafood platter for two to a lightly battered fish and chips and a pan-fried fillet of Brixham sea bass – landed that morning, we were told – this was food worthy of the spectacular location.

When a hotel – or inn with rooms, as they prefer to call it – is this special, it’s a wrench to drag yourself anywhere else.

- 106 -

That said, with some deft negotiation, we managed to manoeuvre the Rolls-Royce around the nearby country lanes and pay a visit to Kents Cavern – a set of ancient underground caves – and The Elephant, a wonderful Michelin-starred restaurant in Torquay – somewhere that is singlehandedly raising the seaside resort’s image up from cheap and cheerful to a genuine destination for foodies.

For a stylish seaside stay, then, it’s time you rediscovered the beautiful English Riviera, making the homely, hospitable Cary Arms your boutique base for your retreat. Perhaps it’s wiser to leave the Roller in the garage, however. caryarms.co.uk

BUILDING & INTERIOR DESIGN SOLUTIONS

BUILDING WORK

• INTERIOR DESIGN •

RENOVATION

Feel free to contact us for a no obligation quote Head Office: Bayswater Business Centre 28a Queensway London. W2 3RX

Design Studio: Riverbank House 1 Putney Bridge Approach London. SW6 3JD

T: +44 (0) 20 7760 7566 E: info@dominicpayte.com W: www.dominicpayte.com STRUCTURAL BUILDING WORK | INTERIOR DESIGN SERVICE | RESTORATION REFURBISHMENT | DECORATING | TILING | PLUMBING AND BATHROOMS LOFT CONVERSIONS | BASEMENTS | EXTENSIONS | JOINERY | ROOFING

kings All aboard for our pick of the best in show at this year’s ever-luxurious Cannes Yachting Festival

- 108 -

- S u p eryac h ts -

Words – Scott Manson

T

he annual Cannes Yachting Festival is the traditional curtain-raiser for the boat show season and, from 9-14 September, three exhibition areas in this south of France playground are host to around 580 luxury yachts. The 2013 show saw over 150 new-builds unveiled, and thousands of visitors were given the chance to compare the latest models, designs and accessories that the industry has to offer.

A host of glamorous evening cocktail parties are also held throughout the week, many of them sponsored by luxury brands. For the uninitiated, the best of these are those held out of dock. In other words, if you need a launch to get to the yacht, you’re definitely going to the right party. As Europe’s leading in-water boat show, the event also offers potential buyers that most coveted of opportunities – the chance to take the helm of a yacht for a sea trial. Read on to discover the best in show…

Superyacht, superstar: the imposing 44.8m Logica 147 is one of the annual event’s most spectacular vessels

- 109 -

- S u p eryac h ts -

Every inch a flagship: The Riva 122’ Mythos is the largest built in the Italian brand’s history

Riva 122’ Mythos The new flagship of the Ferretti group, this 37.5m yacht is the largest built in the 172-year history of the Italian brand. It has a cruising speed of 26 knots and its construction combines Canaletto walnut with lightweight aluminium, making for a sleek, dynamic boat that is the nautical equivalent of a supercar.

- 110 -

- S u p eryac h ts -

Baglietto’s latest This stunning new 46.3m displacement yacht follows the trend for Nordic styling that has been established through collaborations between Baglietto and designer Francesco Paszkowski.

There’s a ‘beach club’ area at the stern, a dining area, master stateroom, four guest cabins and she also offers a range of 4,500 miles.

- 111 -

Nordic style: Baglietto’s new 46m yacht includes a beach club area and has a range of 4,500 miles.

LuxuryWaterToys provides yacht standing watersports services, sales and Rental. Our innovative and exclusive products are selected and designed to meet your high expectations. Our Jetsurf is the lightest powered surfboard ever built. Made from high tech materials such as carbon fibre and Kevlar, the Jetsurf will bring a whole new, thrilling experience to your time on the water. The Jetsurf combines physical effort and pure fun, mixing the world of extreme sport with the world of Luxury.

VIP Training: We offer you an exclusive service with personal trainers. Wherever you want - in villas, hotels or on a boat. Whenever you want - our teams are avalaible at any time to show you the perfect match between serious action and fun. As Jetsurf World Champions 2013, we guarantee you the highest quality instruction. Let us show you a new form of leisure - we know you will be amazed

www.luxurywatertoys.eu - info@luxurywater toys.eu - +33(0)6.18.93.07.57

- S u p eryac h ts -

Logica 147-01 This imposing 44.8m superyacht owes its naval architecture and interior styling to star designer Luca Brenta. She accommodates 12 guests in a master, a VIP, two double and two twin cabins and is regarded as one of the most important ‘guest stars’ in the yacht show season. The megayacht also has a 5.5m swimming pool at the front of the boat, which boasts a downstream swimming system.

Dreamline Part of an exciting new line of superyachts, the 34m Dreamline has been designed with a groundbreaking new shape which dramatically reduces fuel consumption, giving it a range of 3,500 nautical miles.

Another distinctive feature of the boat is an impressive owner’s cabin, offering a magnificent 180° panoramic sea view.

From top: the Logica 147-01 megayacht is a fine showcase of the skill of star designer Luca Brenta; the Dreamline’s bold design significantly reduces its fuel consumption

- 113 -

- t r av el -

Words – Scott Manson

Room for romance In the mood for love? Read on to discover some passion-stirring places to stay

- 114 -

- t r av el -

Tower Suites, Warwick Castle, UK For those who dream of spending the night in a fairytale castle fit for a king (or queen), Warwick Castle has unveiled two magnificent Tower Suites appointed with bespoke furniture and fittings in the 14th century Caesar’s Tower. The apartments – The Peacock Suite and The Rose Suite – offer paying guests the first opportunity in living memory to spend the night resplendent in their own private chamber at the castle. Each suite is located on its own private floor and comprises a romantic bedchamber replete with four-poster bed, plus contemporary en-suite facilities. Breakfast and a private tour of the magnificent castle are also included. warwick-castle.com

- 115 -

- t r av el -

Shangri-La Villingili Resort & Spa, Maldives Located in the heart-shaped Addu Atoll, this superb spa hotel is synonymous with romance. The idyllic location, isolated villas and luxury dining experiences combine to make for the ultimate couple’s retreat.

All private villas offer maximum seclusion and the hotel can also organise everything from lunch on the equator aboard a luxury yacht to a rustic, candlelit barbecue on the sands.

Check out the Chi spa villa, too, which offers signature couples’ treatments based around the Himalyan Tsangpo Ritual, a bathing and cleansing technique using ingredients based on the Sowa Rigpa, the 1,500 year old Himalayan healing tradition. shangri-la.com/male/villingiliresort

- 116 -

- t r av el -

Ellenborough Park, UK Voted Europe’s 5th Best Luxury Hotel by Trip Advisor at its 2013 Travellers Choice Awards and, for three years in a row, this five star Cotswolds hotel has also been voted ‘England’s Leading Spa Hotel’ at the World Travel Awards.

Besides being the perfect place for a romantic break, foodies should also note that its chef, David Kelman, who recently featured on the BBC’s Great British Menu, offers locally sourced produce served in the beautiful oak-panelled Beaufort dining room.

Elsewhere, turrets, arches, towers, an intimate spa, original Tudor fireplaces and crackling log fires complete the picture of romantic bliss. ellenboroughpark.com

- 117 -

- t r av el -

Chateau Lou Casteou, France Located in the Esterel Mountains on the Cote D’Azur, this 100-yearold chateau was bought by Morag and Chris Baxter in 2008 and subsequently gutted and completely renovated to become the luxury private residence it is today. Fabulously high-end, it sleeps 32 people, and also offers a beautiful pool, staff, helipad, cloisters, kitchens, games room, tennis courts, ball room and panoramic views of St Tropez. Oh, and X Factor fans should note that Simon Cowell even chose it as one of his judge’s houses. loucasteou.com

- 118 -

I “ finally found all of the privacy and relaxation I had been craving for months on an island as beautiful as it is welcoming.�

www.baros.com

- t r av el -

The world’s most expensive honeymoon?

If you’re looking to splash out on the trip of a lifetime, then what better occasion to do it than your honeymoon? Leading tailor-made safari operator Discover Africa has recently launched what it considers to be the world’s priciest honeymoon experience, coming in an eye-watering £152,000 for 14 days of uber-luxury For £10,882 per couple, per day, newlyweds can enjoy a helicopter ride over Cape Town, Table Mountain and the 12 Apostles; stay in a penthouse in an exclusive hotel on the city’s V&A Waterfront; sip sundowner cocktails on top of Table Mountain; go on a number of private safaris in some of Africa’s most wildlife-abundant areas including the Serengeti; and take part in an adrenalin-pumping game drive in Tanzania, before glamping overnight.

Brides and grooms can also toast their nuptials on tours of vineyards and estates in the winelands not easily available to tourists, via a private 4x4 jeep with a specialist guide.

While there, guests might also choose to splash out on lavish souvenirs and gifts, including a bottle of vintage Dom Pérignon (£1500), a Swarovski NC2 night vision telescope (£4700) for evening safaris and the exotic Kopi Luwak coffee (approx. £165 per kilo). One thing is certain, this is a trip you will never forget… discoverafrica.com

St Regis Resort Bora Bora, French Polynesia Nestled within 44 acres of verdant Polynesian forestry, the elegant St Regis Bora Bora is an enchanting retreat offering sublime sunsets, glistening secluded surrounds and world-class service. For a truly romantic time, reserve a Royal Overwater Villa which looks out toward the sparkling ocean and the islands of Raiatea and Taha’a from a coral-hued stone terrace, home to two dining gazebos, deck chairs, and an inviting infinity pool. This is paradise found. tahiti-tourisme.co.uk

- 120 -

CHOOSE YOUR VILLA, WE’LL TAKE CARE OF THE REST

•

Membership of an exclusive private Club

•

An international holiday lifestyle

•

All Villas fully maintained and serviced by the Club’s bespoke Concierge Service

•

A share in the ownership of a variety of spacious 4-5 bedroom Villas and Ski Chalets across the world

•

Benefit from any future capital growth in a global portfolio of 100 properties

This investment carries the risk of potential loss of capital.

Marrakech

France

Italy

Thailand

www.thehideawaysclub.com | +44 (0) 20 7205 2086 Investment in this scheme is restricted to certified high net worth or sophisticated investors. Evidence of this certification will be required before detailed information can be provided to you.

The price or value of, or income from, investments can fall as well as rise. This investment carries a risk to your capital and an investor may get back less than the sum invested. You may have difficulty selling this investment at a reasonable price and in some circumstances it may be difficult to sell it at any price. Do not invest in this unless you have carefully thought about whether you can afford it and whether it is right for you. This financial promotion has been approved for the purposes of section 21 Financial Services and Markets Act 2000 in the United Kingdom by Smith & Williamson Corporate Finance Limited, 25 Moorgate London EC2R 6AY, which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority.

AUTOMOTIVE

- m o-mten r av t i el n t-i m e -

- 122 -

The Historic Grand Prix of Monaco, held every year in the principality, is arguably the hottest ticket on the international vintage racing car circuit.

As official timekeeper and sponsor since 2002, Chopard has created a range of exceptional chronographs paying tribute to the competition. Inspired by the race’s classic cars, both in terms of their finishing and their performance, all are equipped with a calibre that is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

Pictured here is competitor and former driving ace, Jacky Ickx wearing the Chopard GPMH watch at this year’s event. As a six-time Le Mans winner and with eight Grand Prix wins under his belt, this Belgian racing driver is no stranger to high performance machines. It’s little wonder that this distinctive watch is his timepiece of choice.

chopard.com

FA C E B O O K . C O M / T H E M A C A L L A N

THE 1824 SER IES .

THE LAST WORD IN COLOUR.

DISCOV ER THE MACALL AN 182 4 SERIE S AT THEMACALL AN.COM

|

PLE A SE SAVOUR RE SP ONSIBLY

THE HYDRO MECHANICAL HOROLOGISTS H2 | titanium Black Dlc HYT is the first timepiece ever to combine mechanical and liquid engineering. H2, unique Swiss technology and movement made in cooperation with Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi - manual winding and 8-day power-reserve - driving a unique high-tech fluidic technology. HYT - a new dawn in watchmaking.

Harrods | 87 - 135 Brompton Rd, London | t.+44 20 7730 1234 | www.harrods.com Kronometry 1999 | 106 New Bond St, London | t.+44 20 7499 1434 | www.kronometry1999.com

H Y T WATCH E S .CO M