Tempus issue 35

35

baselworld 2015 special issue

NOT O N LY MINE BUT A PART OF ME www.francvila.com

SHOWROOM: Grand Rue 6 - Geneva • +41 22 317 07 27

www.flyvictor.com Victor is approved by the Civil Aviation Authority for ATOL Licence 10378

A smarter future awaits. Chartering a private jet can get you there faster. We’ve made it simple by cutting through the confusion of chartering a jet with a fast, transparent way to compare, book and manage your flights.

With a fixed booking fee, no hidden costs or unexpected surcharges, we are confident our quotes won’t be beaten.

Smart technology and exceptional customer service mean you’re always connected and in complete control. The future is in your hands.

F

O

L

L

O

W

Y

O

U

R

O

W

N

S

T

A

R

EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER 1969 T R I B U T E TO T H E R O L L I N G S TO N E S

W W W . Z E N I T H - W A T C H E S . C O M

|

W W W . R O L L I N G S T O N E S . C O M

»NOMOS is among the best luxury watches out there.« N e w Yo r k Ti m e s

A tiny part that changes everything: NOMOS Glashütte spent seven years researching and developing an in-house escapement.

Now Metro featuring the NOMOS swing system is here—and a worldwide first. With selected retailers: Cambridge: Catherine Jones Jewellery; Cardiff: Fraser Hart, Watches of Switzerland; Chichester: Perfect Timing; Derbyshire: CW Sellors; Edinburgh: Hamilton & Inches; Glasgow: Fraser Hart, Orro; Kent: Fraser Hart; Leicester: Stewart’s Watches; London: Fraser Hart, Mappin & Webb, Watches of Switzerland; Manchester: Watches of Switzerland; Ruislip: CS Bedford. Find out more at nomos-glashuette.com, or order online at nomos-store.com. Visit us at Baselworld in hall 1.1, stand E79.

vIP AFTER PARTIES

LIvE PERFORmANCES

F1 dRIvER APPEARANCES

PAddOCk CLUb

SPECIALISING IN LUXURY F1 HOSPITALITY SINCE 2003

THE ORIGINAL F1 LIFESTYLE EXPERIENCE AmbER LOUNGE IS UNdENIAbLY THE mOST COvETEd & SOPHISTICATEd PARTY ON THE PLANET. WHEN THE CHEqUEREd FLAG dROPS, Am b E R L O U N G E I S T H E O N L Y P L A C E T O bE .

enquiries@amber-lounge.com

www.amber-lounge.com

+377 97 77 16 34

CELEbRITY CHARITY FASHION SHOWS

LUXURY YACHT HOSPITALITY ACCOmmOdATION

mONACO

SINGAPORE

mEXICO CITY

AbU dHAbI

22/23/24 May

19/20 September

30/31/1 Oct/Nov

28/29 November

www.feliosiby.com feliosiby

BASELWORLD.COM

A unique window to the universe of watches and jewellery where all key players showcase trendsetting creations and innovations. Seize this opportunity to experience passion, precision and perfection.

M AR C H 19 – 26, 2015

- fo r ewo r d -

ISSUE

THIRTY FIVE

From the editor Editorial Director

Dawn Alford

dawn@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4693 Creative Director

Marcus Leitch

Director and CEO

Jay Boisvert

jay@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4697 Business Development Manager

Ashley Collin

ashley@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4687 Head of Sales & Partnerships

Ray Fieldhouse

ray@curvecontent.com 0203 617 4684

CURVE CONTENT TEMPUS IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY

BY CURVE CONTENT LTD, 3-7 HERBAL HILL, LONDON EC1R 5EJ

I was seven years old when I first visited Switzerland and clearly remember begging my father to buy me a cuckoo clock. He refused, telling me: “Cuckoo clocks are German. The Swiss make the best watches in the world – that’s what you should save up for.”

Fast forward, ahem, quite a few years, and I am indeed now the proud owner of a few Swiss timepieces. But of course there is always room in my collection for one more so it is with huge excitement that I – and the whole team – are packing up Tempus Towers and heading to Baselworld.

This year, we are thrilled to have been chosen as a media partner, which means Basel-goers will get to see our magazine on location, and we’re hoping to meet as many of our readers as possible. Horology writer Alex Doak has prepared a fantastic preview starting on page 38, plus you’ll find a great guide to the event on page 18.

For those of you not able to make Baselworld, our next issue – our third birthday edition - will bring you news on all the finest horological novelties unveiled at the show. And if you can’t wait until then, follow us on twitter @Tempusmagazine.

I never did get a cuckoo clock – maybe the Tempus team will allow me a detour into Germany to pick one up on the way home.

Dawn Alford Editor

PRINTED BY

- 15 -

Contributors

Tempus is proud to work with some of the UK’s finest timepiece and luxury writers, including: Alex Doak

One of the UK’s most renowned watch writers, Alex gets the inside track on the timepieces unveiling at Baselworld 2015 on page 38.

Laura McCreddie

Laura is the editor of Eve’s Watch and was formerly the editor of Retail Jeweller. Laura also writes a monthly column for City AM’s lifestyle magazine, Bespoke. She reviews the best jewellery at Baselworld

Peter Jenkinson

Technology writer Peter Jenkinson writes for Britain’s national newspapers and regularly appears on TV and radio, including Sky, the Gadget Show and CNBC. On page 60 he investigates the Swiss tech scene

Celtic Dog

MOVEMENT KRB 01 caliber manual-winding tourbillon, 120 hours power reserve, 28,800vph, 27 jewels Functions: hours, minutes, tourbillon DIAL 18k white gold, blue enamel, hand decorated 3 layer dial, guillochĂŠ

www.kerbedanz.com

CASE Case material: massive white gold Case diameter: 43mm Case height: 11,5mm Water resistance: 3ATM STRAP Blue genuine alligator

Palace 6C

- c o n t en ts -

Inside ISSUE THIRTY FIVE

baselworld 2015 special issue

18 Breaking Basel

70 Showstopping jewellery

Laura McCreedie previews some of Baselworld’s most elegant pieces

The Tempus guide to enjoying every moment of Baselworld 2015 – even if you can’t make it there in person

77 Luxury Briefing

38 Going forward in time

Celebrate spring with a new clock,or treat your mum this Mother’s Day with a gift from our guide

Alex Doak previews some of the stunning novelties that will be on display at Baselworld 2015 35

54 Roger Dubuis

86 Banish the beard

Time for a clean shave?

Here’s how

We talk timepieces and the future with CEO Jean-Marc Pontroue

92 Scents of worth

60 Gadgets

Meet the stars of the Swiss tech scene

The newest fragrances for Spring/Summer 2015

66 Watch Snob

100 Latin love affairs

Askmen’s columnist pulls no punches when solving your horological conundrums 68 Investing in the past

How to find the perfect vintage timepiece

baselworld 2015 special issue

Fall head over heels in love with stunning Latin America 114 Moments in Time

Special thanks: Graeme Allen

- 17 -

A behind the scenes look at red-carpet wristwatches

35

Br eaking Ba sel 56

- 18 -

The birthplace of halluciogenic drug LSD is also famous for culture, arts and Roger Federer – and the biggest luxury timepiece and jewellery fair in the world

- 19 -

FOUNDED 1985

Celebrating 30 Years of Pre-eminence in Print Personal Stationery . Corporate Stationery . Weddings & Events

1 Curzon Street, London W1J 5HD . 020 7351 5887 . info@wrenpress.com

-a-z o f Bas elwo r ld -

Words - Dawn Alford

Your essential A-Z guide to surviving Baselworld

ndermatt Many Baselworld veterans are now building in a little après watch fair time into their schedules.

The smart ones are heading to Andermatt, and in particular the five-star Chedi Hotel which, in December, won the accolade of Best Hotel in Switzerland. Andermatt is a year-round holiday destination. In addition to offering fantastic winter skiing, it also hosts a range of summertime activities, including golf at a brand new 18-hole course with beautiful panoramic views, mountain biking, hiking, water sports and horse-drawn carriage rides in the mountains.

Andermatt is currently in the middle of ambitious development plans which, once complete, will include six new four- and fivestar hotels, 500 apartments, 25 chalets and revitalised ski slopes – combining the existing Andermatt and Sedrun ski areas to make it the largest in central Switzerland. andermatt-swissalps.ch

A

- 21 -

-a-z o f Bas elwo r ld -

reitling party Breitling’s annual party at Baselworld is always the talk of the town. Do anything you can to get your hands on a ticket. Famed for its unexpected venues and themes, the party is always full of surprises, with absolutely no expense spared. But it’s not the only party in town. Most of the big brands entertain guests with cocktails, champagne and fine food as the sun sets over Basel. Expect to see bleary-eyed Baselword exhibitors and guests early the next morning – and some who have clearly not been to sleep at all.

b

hopard Quality and creativity are the hallmarks of Chopard, the internationally known luxury watch and jewellery firm founded in 1860.

Today, Chopard continues to produce highprecision watches and precious jewellery through a skilful mix of innovative design, high technology and traditional craftsmanship.

Chopard has been developing its own watch movements at its manufacture in Fleurier since 1996. This one was created especially to celebrate the Chinese New Year of the Goat.

c

os and Don’ts Do l e a ve t i m e b e t we e n appointments – Baselworld is the size of a small town. Do eat a small breakfast – champagne tends to flow from around 9.30am so make sure you have eaten before you start your day.

Don’t ask: “How much is it? Don’t think you’ve just spotted Kim Kardashian. She isn’t invited.

Do bring a credit card – and plenty of cash.

The price of a mere hotdog can start from £20.

Don’t consider trying to book a hotel for this year, it’s much too late. Do book your hotel for Baselword 2016 now.

d

- 22 -

Tycoon Chronograph a.m.

Elegance conquers roughness Face the New

Terrestis Collection

fortis-swiss.com

-a-z o f Bas elwo r ld -

ttinger Last year’s Baselworld was awash with businessmen and women carrying and using some of the fantastic collections from Ettinger. This year we are expecting to see even more and the Tempus editor has her eye on this particular stunning travel document case. ettinger.com

e

ootwear Flats shoes are an absolute must as Basel-goers can easily walk miles from appointment to appointment within the vast halls. A change of shoes is also a good idea for when the high heels get too much (for women, that is). This season you’ll be likely to spot these Rainier shoes by J. Fitzpatrick on the feet of the finest attendees, adding a little colour to men’s business wear. And look out for these bright, tassled moccasins from Cristin Adiez on the feet of well-heeled women. theshoesnob.com cristinadiez-shoes.com

f

rand Hotel Les Trois Vois One of Europe’s oldest city hotels, Les Trois Vois exudes the charm and elegance of a historic grand residence.

The luxury hotel is one of the best places to stay in Basel and will no doubt be a second home to some of the biggest names in horology. Situated in the centre of the Old Town and on the banks of the Rhine, the hotel will host Baselworld receptions and a few impromptu late-night parties.

G

- 24 -

TIME TO SWISS MONTE ROSA MOUNTAIN PEAK – CANTON VALLIS 10.26 p.m. - He gradually began to unwind. After all, he had given three encores in Zurich yesterday. Now all that remained for him to do was to take in the unforgettable view. He looked at his Manjaz watch.

Sadly it was already time for him to go back to the airport.

He should remember to book a longer trip next time.

MORE ABOUT THE WATCHES, THE LOCATION AND THE STORY: WWW.MANJAZ.CH

SHARPLIGHT SERIES 6212M XRR-B

-a-z o f Bas elwo r ld -

elicopter tours For a private tour of Basel, or Switzerland – or simply a speedy way to get home, Monacair offers Baselworld delegates a smart way to travel.

The company can collect you from your nearest heliport and effortlessly get you to the fair. The sleek exterior, world-class pilots and stylish interior will mean you arrive refreshed and exhilarated. And what’s more, you can even enjoy reading a copy of Tempus on board – you’ll find copies on every flight. monacair.mc

h

'll be back Arnold Schwarzenegger visited the show in 2012 and vowed to return. He is rumoured to be attending again this year to launch his own watch – the A.S – with the proceeds of the sales going to charity. Arnie loves timepieces and has designed and worn watches by Audemars Piguet in several of his films. He’s also been snapped wearing Panerai diving watches in his former day-job as the ‘Governator’ of California.

Helga Esteb / Shutterstock.com

i

- 26 -

-a-z o f Bas elwo r ld -

eanrichard Jeanrichard boasts an impressive heritage. Daniel Jeanrichard, born is 1665, is a legendary figure in Swiss watchmaking and is considered to be the founder of the watchmaking industry in the Swiss city of Neuchâtel in the late 17th century. He was said to have had a curious and inventive mind and created his first timepiece after repairing a broken English watch that had been given to him. The Jeanrichard Museum in nearby La Chaux-de-Fonds houses several of his most outstanding watches, including the Daniel watch (1710), a technical and aesthetic masterpiece with a calendar aperture.

j

unstmuseum A museum with a name you have to be careful how you pronounce, the Kunstmuseum in Basel is home to one of the largest and oldest public museum collections in Europe. During its unique history it has assembled works from the early 15th century to the present. It houses the world’s largest collection of works by the Holbein family, as well as paintings by Monet, Picasso, van Gogh and Renoir.

k

SD Meandering through the streets on his bicycle on a sunny day in April 1943, Albert Hofmann noted that Basel looked particularly beautiful; its colours vibrant and views sublime.

The story goes that Hofmann, a scientist at a pharmaceutical company had, minutes earlier, created and intentionally ingested LSD. His bike ride home was officially the world’s first acid ‘trip’ and its anniversary in April is recognised and celebrated all over the world as ‘bicycle day’.

l

- 27 -

A SUPER-LUXE HOTEL WITH STYLE The Chedi Andermatt, in the heart of the Swiss Alps, is setting a new standard in design and hospitality in Switzerland. Designed by Jean-Michael Gathy, the 101 spacious guest rooms and suites combine Alpine chic with Asian nuances throughout the five star hotel. The extensive facilities include The Restaurant offering European and Asian cuisine, The Japanese with its authentic Sushi and Tempura, a ski-butler service and 2400 m² of spa as well as a 35 m swimming pool overlooking the stunning outdoor Alpine landscape.

GOTTHARDSTRASSE 4 CH-6490 ANDERMATT SWITZERLAND T (41) 41 888 74 88 GHMhotels.com

-a-z o f Bas elwo r ld -

oney Should you find yourself with a few spare hours and are considering opening a Swiss bank account, you should find it fairly easy. Of course, Switzerland is known for its impressive banking system, including its legendary privacy policies. They are not as exciting as depicted in Hollywood movies, but they are extremely well run.

They remain impressively private and it is illegal for employees of Swiss banks to reveal any information about customers’ accounts.

However, there is an exception. In recent years, several agreements have been signed between Switzerland and countries including the USA, Germany and the UK in attempt to crack down on tax evasion. These agreements mean that, while Switzerland fiercely protects privacy, there are some circumstances where banks must cooperate with foreign authorities.

m

oohn restaurant Noohn is one of Basel’s most stylish restaurants so ensure you book early if you want to secure a table during Baselworld. The Asian fusion restaurant is spread over an incredible 6,500sq ft. The centrepiece is a fantastic Sushi Bar, where dishes are freshly prepared in front of guests and then circulated around the bar via an invisible, magnetically driven conveyor, a world first and specially designed for Noohn. If you can’t secure a table to eat, the rooftop terrace bar and lounge offers incredible views of Basel. noohn.ch

n

- 29 -

-a-z o f Bas elwo r ld -

ris This incredible luxury brand was founded in Basel in 1904 and its first factory was run by just 24 workmen. Within two years Oris was employing more than 300 people and the company built houses and flats for its workers.

Today, it timepieces are known across the globe for their classic style and are identified by their signature red rotor. Find them at Baselworld in Hall 1.0 Stand D35. oris.ch

o

atek Philippe Always a huge draw at Baselworld, prestigious Patek Philippe is Geneva’s oldest independent, family-owned watch manufacturer. It develops and manufactures its movements in-house and produces exceptional watches. At the time of going to print, it had not unveiled any new offerings – so a visit to its maison is well worth a visit. Patek Philippe – Hall 1.0 Stand 11.

p

uality chocolate The Swiss are expert chocolatiers, and for an authentic and decadent shopping experience visit the Merkur chocolaterie.

The displays of chocolate bark with dried fruits and nuts, as well as traditional truffles and chocolates in all shapes and sizes, are impressive. If you’re lucky the staff will let you try before you buy. However, be warned: you’re unlikely to leave with change from a 100 Swiss franc note.

q

- 30 -

porsche design Timepieces

FIRST IN BLACK. THE NEW ORIGINAL.

Timepiece No. 1 | www.porsche-design.com/timepieces

-a-z o f Bas elwo r ld -

ouge bar The Rouge Bar is probably the nearest stylish bar to Baselword and will no doubt be home to a few after-show parties and gatherings. On the top floor of Massetower, the view is also quite a showstopper. barrouge.ch

r

chloss Restaurant The Schloss restaurant can be found within the fairytale setting of Bottmingen Castle, just ten minutes from Basel.

The castle is surrounded by a moat and nestles in a romantic park. It offers a finedining seasonal menu prepared by chef Gilles Burnin and p창tissier Alain Schmidlin. The castle is open throughout the year and diners can indulge within its gilded halls in winter, or in the gardens in the summer. weiherschloss.ch

s

- 32 -

m e i rah C arl ton Tower Cadoga n Pl ace l: +44 207 235 1323

3

3 4

0

30

34

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève / Monaco Yacht Show / H I P H O M ES St Lucia / B R EG U ET / Swiss ski special / W I N T ER C OATS / Watch Snob / Fortis

Valentine’s gifts / Women’s Watches / BAG S O F STY LE / Gent’s gadgets / Truffle-hunting in France / LU X U RY WO R LDW I D E S PAS / The Savoy

PO RS C H E P R EV I EW

28/01/2015 18:37

30 Covers Combined FINAL.indd 1

3 1

16/09/2014 19:52

3 2

31

32

Max Büsser / Wearable technology / K I T ES U R FI N G I N C U BA / French ski special F1 track day / RO G ER S M I T H / High-end audio / Watch snob / Diving watches

32 Covers Combined READ.indd 1

Blancpain

/ Salon QP / H OT AU CT I O N S / Tahiti travel special / Watch snob / LU X U RY C H R I ST M AS W I S H LI ST

S K I I TA LY / Watch boutique guide

17/10/2014 11:47

19/11/2014 18:11

29

empus Magazine This year, Tempus is a Baselworld media partner.

You may well have picked up this copy at the show, or perhaps in your hotel room. The Tempus team are also here in person, so if you’d like to meet us (and maybe tell us how fabulous our magazine is) do get in touch via twitter THE HYDRO @Tempusmagazine MECHANICAL

t

2 9

HOROLOGISTS

H2 | titanium Black Dlc HYT is the first timepiece ever to combine mechanical and liquid engineering. H2, unique Swiss technology and movement made in cooperation with Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi - manual winding and 8-day power-reserve - driving a unique high-tech fluidic technology. HYT - a new dawn in watchmaking.

Harrods | 87 - 135 Brompton Rd, London | t.+44 20 7730 1234 | www.harrods.com

MB&F / German watch special / LU X U RY J EW ELLERY Africa's hotel revolution / C H R I ST PO H ER WA R D / Bespoke shoes / Watch snob / H YT I C EB ERG

Kronometry 1999 | 106 New Bond St, London | t.+44 20 7499 1434 | www.kronometry1999.com

H Y T WATCH E S .COM

29 Covers Combined v4b.indd 1 HYT-Ad-Tempus-240x300-H2-TagLondon.indd 1

RO LLS-ROYC E W R A I T H / Cannes Yachting Festival

07.08.2014 15:58:04

15/08/2014 12:40

35

-a-z o f Bas elwo r ld -

an Gogh Find works of art by Vincent van Gogh at the Foundation Beyeler.

The gallery, which is just outside Basel also features a collection of 250 paintings and sculptures by celebrated modern masters such as Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Pablo Picasso, alongside various contemporary masters and a series of 25 rare tribal art pieces from Africa and Oceania.

Scattered in the park around the museum are numerous quirky sculptures by renowned contemporary artists such as Ellsworth Kelly and Alexander Calder.

Fondation Beyeler, Baselstrasse 101, Riehen, Basel

v

rsula andress Probably the most famous Bond girl ever, Ursula Andress was born just a short distance from Basel.

The Swiss beauty played Honey Rider, a shell diver who emerged from the Caribbean in that famous white bikini in Dr No.

u

heels Wheels are a must for the experienced Baselworld-goer as each brand you visit will want to give you magazines, brochures and even the odd gift or two if you’re lucky. You can spot attendees who have visited before because they will be trailing a case on wheels behind them, not bogged down with armfuls of bumph. The Tempus team’s favourite this year is Tumi’s Tegra-lite collection – sleek, refined and stylish. tumi.com

w

- 34 -

-a-z o f Bas elwo r ld -

rated Basel Prostitution and other erotica-related activities have been documented in Basel since medieval times.

Tolerated throughout Switzerland, licensed brothels are mostly found in Basel’s red light area, Grossbasel, and please take your safety seriously should you happen to find yourself in the area accidentally after a Baselworld party. Interestingly, figures reveal that the annual revenue of the sex trade in Switzerland in 2011 was $4.4bn.

x

outh and vitality Science and nature combine in Switzerland and the country has become a world leader in cutting edge anti aging treatments, spas and retreats.

One of the most famous, Clinic Lemanic, based in Lausanne, is well known as a centre of excellence for aesthetic, regenerative and anti- ageing medicines and offers personalised programs and slimming solutions. The awardwinning centre is just minutes from the stunning lake and nearby countryside and the views surely aid recovery. cliniclemanic.ch

y

oo Zolli is the term affectionately used by locals for Basel Zoo. The non-profit conservation centre is Switzerland’s oldest and largest, and is the most visited paid-for tourist attraction in the country. It boasts an Indian rhinoceros birth in a zoo, as well as breeding success with cheetahs, pygmy hippos and flamingos. Definitely look out for Lakisha, a very cute and rare Somali wild ass – or a donkey as we might call it. zoobasel.ch

z

- 35 -

Trident_ redefined.

C60 TRIDENT PRO 600 – Swiss made dive watch with automatic mechanical movement, zirconia ceramic bezel and water resistance to 60 bar/600m. Available in 38mm and 42mm case sizes, five dial/bezel combinations and four strap styles.

SwISS MOvEMENT

ENglISh hEaRT

- 38 -

-Bas elwo r ld p r ev i ew -

Bellwether Basel

The Chinese are gifting less, Russia’s slowing down, and the uncapped Swiss franc is driving up costs… but the early signs are, says Alex Doak, that Baselworld will be as exuberant as ever this March

O

ne of my favourite credit-crunch anecdotes (admittedly there aren’t very many) comes from that stalwart of taste and understatement, Hermès. Allegedly, the Parisian brand’s boutiques began offering its more self-conscious customers plain white bags in which to surreptitiously stow their purchases, rather than the usual road-safety orange broadcasting its new owner’s criminally insensitive largesse.

Because, as we all know, the very top end wasn’t terribly affected by the financial downturn of the late noughties. The rich continued to get richer, and the stuff they like continued to get bought – yes, mostly by the Chinese and Russians, but also by westerners who are just better at that whole subtlety thing when it comes to indulging their wealth.

A lot of that stuff happened to be Swiss watches – meaning that despite a brief dip in export value in 2009, things were soon offset by a 22% recovery the following year.Then a 20% rise.

And then another 11%. All the while, however, the vitrines of spring’s Baselworld watch and jewellery trade fair had never looked so humble.

Out with the pantomime über-complications, tourbillons for the sake of tourbillons and diamond-set carbuncles. In with the 1960s reissues, slimline cases and clean white dials.

Looking back, it’s patently clear that this return to simpler, less complicated, less flashy timepieces

- 39 -

was merely Switzerland’s plain-white Hermès bag moment.

But what’s good about this – quite apart from reminding us all what tasteful watchmaking looks like – is that the modern revival of ‘proper’ watches, following the quartz crisis of the 1980s, is now complete. With spending power in healthier shape than ever – the industry doesn’t even seem particularly worried by the uncapped Swiss franc driving up export costs – what we’ll see gleaming from each brand pavilion’s vitrines this March and early April will be the most comprehensive range of product seen for decades. The more avantgarde watchmakers are yet again pushing the boundaries of materials, mechanics and design – viz. Hublot, Girard-Perregaux and Arnold & Son – but they have also remembered to service the lower-end and those who simply want a watch that actually fits beneath their French cuffs (well done, as ever, Blancpain).

And it’s not just the suited-and-booted dapper chaps who are benefiting. Women are better served than ever, by watches with both brains and beauty, rather than a simple “pink shrink” kitted out with quartz. In fact, especially in the case of the Harry Winston Midnight Feathers featured here, the line between men and women is increasingly blurred. (Maybe one day the ‘boyfriend watch’ will be replaced by the ‘girlfriend watch’?)

A true legend of the skies Paying tribute to the iconic World War 1 aircraft, known as the ‘King of the Air Fighters’, the Sopwith Camel is the inspiration for Valour’s first offering – the Sopwith Aviator®, a limited edition model of only 200 individually numbered timepieces.

Different by design Introducing the Sopwith Aviator® desk stand, a truly elegant way to enjoy the timepiece in addition to wearing it on the wrist.

Freephone (UK): 0800 133 7216

Tel: +44 (0)20 3637 0079

www.valourwatchcompany.com

-Bas elwo r ld p r ev i ew -

All of which means that the burgeoning parade of fashion press struggling to navigate the labyrinthine halls of Messe Basel are scratching their heads even more. How to populate their facile trends round-ups, when tastes have never been more catholic? Richemont’s SIHH trade fair in January proved this, with even the most fazed watch hacks struggling to conveniently encapsulate proceedings beyond a tenuous trend for a skeleton dial here and there. As much as we were tempted to fall back on good old blue dials, rose gold, or matte black, the fact of the matter is that these ‘trends’ are here to stay, along with every other conceivable incarnation of fine watchmaking. Back for good and providing more choice than ever for watch lovers.

We hope you enjoy our pick of the early releases and look forward to bringing you news of the cagier brands who’d rather wait till the doors of Basel’s vast exhibition complex are thrown open once again. Maybe see you there!

Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show 2015 will run from Thursday 19 March through to Thursday 26 April. For further information, visit baselworld.com

- 41 -

-Bas elwo r ld p r ev i ew -

The infamous Breitling party Exhibiting brands literally spend millions of euros building their multi-storey pavilions at Baselworld, and thousands more renting the floorspace and storing all the bits during the year. So it’s no surprise that most of them would rather get their money’s worth and throw their cocktail soirées on site. But not so Breitling, which despite having its own palace complete with a double-decker bus-sized aquarium of tropical fish, get tongues wagging every year as to the secretive location of its notoriously debauched, theatrically immersive party.Thrown five evenings on the trot (yes, five), it invariably involves boarding a convoy of buses – one year, guests were ushered on to battered old rattlers by rifle-wielding terrorists – and being whisked to a converted industrial space for Michelin-starred food, flowing cocktails, a performance by Kool & the Gang (one year at least) and the inevitable caged S&M show. Never say that the Swiss are a shy and retiring bunch…

- 42 -

-Bas elwo r ld p r ev i ew -

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity The brand is hitting the big four-oh this year, but it’s always been a hard one to place, owing to generic design of old and non-committal pricing. But thanks to pieces such as the siliconspiked Gravity, launched in 2014, Maurice Lacroix can finally be pigeonholed confidently as a contemporary, innovative, quirky choice for low-key brainiacs. This PVD-coated limited edition version of the Gravity is a case in point.

Breitling Chronoliner There are plenty of watch brands out there who make aviator watches. But should you wish to contravene several Civil Aviation Authority regulations and run up to any real-life pilot as he exits the cockpit, more often than not you’ll find a Breitling on his wrist. It’s because Breitling is the real deal, and this handsome devil – inspired by a model from the 1950s and 1960s – reminds us of the brand’s golden era as“official supplier to world aviation”. Its most distinctive feature is a broad bezel in scratch-resistant high-tech ceramic.

- 43 -

-Bas elwo r ld p r ev i ew -

Chanel J12 G10 One would never expect Chanel to slavishly follow trends, but this year’s dramatic refresh of its iconic, ceramic J12 finds the company doing exactly that, deploying that horological hipster accessory of the moment, the military Nato strap. Full marks, however, for successfully feminising this onepiece doubled-back strap, and also for naming it correctly as the G10 – a reference to the Nato reference number that soldiers would quote to order theirs when prepping for deployment.

- 45 -

Harry Winston Midnight Feathers Is it a man’s watch? Is it a woman’s? The substantial 42mm proportions hint at the former, but the clever combination of horology and ‘plumasserie’ (feather artistry) veers to the latter. Who cares though, when the result is as beautifully restrained as this, blessed by a whimsy that few houses can summon, beyond Cartier and Van Cleef. Oh, and whichever sex goes for it, you still get a proper automatic movement inside.

Brains and beauty.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat There are few watchmakers that have mastered the true beat, or ‘deadbeat’ seconds – a ‘simple complication’ where the seconds hand advances with a tick every second like a quartz watch, rather than in a sweep. It gives extremely accurate readings, which is why Jaquet Droz has, refreshingly correctly for your usual watch brand, separated out the seconds hand itself, in the spirit of the ‘regulator’ clocks of Monsieur Jaquet-Droz’s day.

- 46 -

Lasting values crafted by masters.

The name “Meister” has stood for classic watchmaking at Junghans since 1936. The Meister watches of today follow in this tradition, for they are a result of both passion for precision and close attention to quality. Choosing a Junghans Meister demonstrates appreciation for these values and for beautiful watchmaking – like our elegant Meister, the Meister Hand-winding.

www.junghans.co.uk · info@thebluecompanylondon.co.uk

-Bas elwo r ld p r ev i ew -

Franc Vila Inaccessible Tourbillon Répétition Minute It doesn’t get more ‘haute’ than this – a notoriously tricksy ‘flying’ tourbillon, suspended from just one bridge, combined with a chiming minuterepeater complication, which despite the choice of dense platinum for the case, can be clearly heard. Mr Vila’s background in chemistry enabled him to solve the problem by combining alloys of varying density to create this beautiful timepiece.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5-Days Indicator Like Franc Vila, this is more boldas-brass contemporary horology: an entirely in-house-developed tourbillon, floating within a sci-fi skeleton of mechanics, all topped by a power-reserve indicator, which seems more at home on a nuclear reactor than a tiny watch. Well, not that tiny – this is a Big Bang after all.

- 48 -

-Bas elwo r ld p r ev i ew -

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 6 When Jack Heuer started to work on his Carrera for drivers and motor-racing enthusiasts in 1963, he knew exactly what was needed: a wide-open, easyto-read dial with a shock-resistant and waterproof case tough enough for road wear. This year’s edition – following the cancellation of TAG’s much-vaunted new chronograph movement and the abrupt departure of its CEO Stéphane Linder – is predictably subdued, but still deliciously vintage in feel.

Nomos Glashütte Metro 38 Datum Can Nomos do no wrong? Not content with establishing its own self-sufficient manufacturing base in the sleepy watchmaking town of Glashütte in Saxony, and winning hearts with its Berlin studio’s exquisitely restrained Bauhaus designs, it has now spent seven years and €13m developing its own ‘swing system’ escapement, duly conferred with ‘very good’ status by German chronometry experts. This year’s new version of the Metro is bound to win an armful of awards, like last year’s power-reserve model.

- 49 -

-Bas elwo r ld p r ev i ew -

Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Never one to set the world on fire, but always one to tip hats and elicit sagely stroked chins, Blancpain’s sober brand of contemporary classicism reaches new heights in 2015 with a big-date version of its Villeret dress watch.

One to peep coquettishly from beneath your French cuff during that board meeting, those that know will be suitably impressed.

Arnold & Son Golden Wheel In keeping with Arnold & Son’s adopted Englishness, this is a modern take on the ‘wandering hours’ complication, rooted in the pocket watches of 18th-century London – where one of three hour satellites float across the minutes arc as the indicator, before it reaches ‘60’ and the next disc comes round to ‘0’.

Audemars Piguet’s Star Wheel of the 1990s may have got there first, before Urwerk updated the principle with a sci-fi twist, but you can’t fault the execution and balance of this latest take.

- 50 -

Rapport Watch Winders The Ultimate Winder for Prestige Automatic Watches

Exclusive online offer for Tempus readers

10% Discount off the website collection Use the offer code “TEMPUS” at the checkout – available for a limited period only

www.rapportlondon.com

- p ro m ot i o n -

Tradition in

EVOLUTION Angelo Galasso effortlessly merges the Italian tradition of classic tailoring with the creativity of couture houses In the beginning, it was a game. Then it became a passion. Now it is fashion.

These few, short sentences capture how Angelo Galasso, born in 1959 in Francavilla Fontana, Brindisi, Italy, has achieved international success thanks to his unique style.

Feeling the pressure of the small provincial environment where he learned the art of proud and traditional Southern Italian tailoring, Galasso, moved to Rome with his family and later on to London.

Angelo explains: “Where I come from, from the moment you are born you are seen as a typical boy, so if you start to do something that is atypical, like dressing really differently, people immediately tell you you are crazy. But I came from a big family where you always had to fight for attention, that is why I moved to Rome and then London where people like you to be an individual and you are actually encouraged to be different.”

It was during his time in Rome that Galasso underwent a strong stylistic development and so, a few years later in 1990, Interno 8 was born – a network of shops offering unconventional style: a ground breaking first shirt collection that rewrote the rules of traditional patterns whilst preserving high-quality tailoring.

“The designer is a true modern dandy and plays the part of the Pugliese peacock to perfection” GQ Magazine, UK

- p ro m ot i o n -

“Angelo is an artist.

You see the craftsmanship in his work” Al Pacino

Interno 8 became a phenomenal success, with 80 stores throughout Italy.

Stewart, Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Al Pacino and Mickey Rourke.

It was at this time that Galasso also created the exclusive Polso Orologio (Watch cuff) shirt. The design was inspired by former Fiat president Gianni Agnelli who couldn’t wear his watch next his skin due to an allergy. In 2004 the design was exhibited at the Design Museum in London, leading the Financial Times to dub Angelo Galasso as The Da Vinci of Shirts and defining him as this generation’s most inventive image maker. Galasso’s prestigious and unique elegance led him to the highest positions of GQ’s Best Dressed Men list, both in 2012 and 2013.

“It’s an excellent place to live and to start a business” says Galasso.

“Our brand philosophy is to use the classic Neapolitan cut for jackets and to construct shirts in the old fashioned way” says Galasso. “My customers however want to stand out so we might do a few things differently, such as make a watch cuff, but everything is made in true Italian tradition” London, the capital of fashion and tailoring brought to Galasso’s brand major success, thanks to high-profile clients such as Sir Paul McCartney, Roger Moore, David Beckham, King Abdullah of Jordan, Puff Daddy, Michael Caine, Simon and Yasmin Le Bon, Rod

Galasso’s pioneering spirit and his need to always move forward led him to the most important step in his career so far, the launch of his eponymous line that once again revolutionised menswear.

In 2009 Galasso was born and the first House opened in London’s Knightsbridge, heart of the Capital’s fashion scene.

The Milano House opened in 2011 in Via Montenapoleone, the word’s epicentre of luxury, quickly followed by New York in 2012, where Galasso took over the Edwardian room in The Plaza Hotel. The Moscow House opened shortly after and the same year the Fondazione Angelo Galasso (foundation) was launched in collaboration with Moscow’s State Historical Museum.

The newest Flagship store, 450 m2 House, opened in March 2014 on Corso Matteotti 8 next to Montenapoleone, celebrated with a big event called “the Importance of Being Eccentric”.

Which altogether sums up a fabulous designer, we Brits have taken to our hearts.

angelogalasso.com

- 54 -

- ro g er d u b u i s -

Words - Alex Doak

With the genial Jean-Marc Pontroué at the helm, Roger Dubuis is daring to go further than most other watchmakers

T

he transition from the beige hallways of Geneva’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) trade fair into the interior of the Roger Dubuis stand is always an experience. In stark contrast to its quietly spoken neighbours, Parmigiani Fleurier and A. Lange & Söhne, the stand presents an outrageous, immersive diorama, in which the worlds of King Arthur, steampunk and glam noir collide. In 2013, the centrepiece was a vast bald eagle, clutching a CHF1million watch in its talons. Last year, it was a legion of stovepipehatted cyborgs. This January, slack-jawed visitors walked into a towering, globular structure of black strands suggestive of a sci-fi future.

“If we were a fashion brand,” creative director Alvaro Maggini tells me,“we would be Alexander McQueen. We met when I worked in fashion, and it was incredible – he had a kind of ‘vibration’.

So creative, so electric…”

Caught up in that Venom/Spiderman scenery, surrounded by Roger Dubuis’ latest collection of spiky, skeletonised tourbillons, it was difficult to disagree. Visit the McQueen Savage Beauty exhibition at the Victoria & Albert museum in London this summer and see for yourself.

But while Maggini imbues the world of Roger Dubuis with his own brand of savage beauty, it falls to CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué to keep a firm hand on the tiller, slowly building Richemont Group’s newest acquisition – and youngest watch

- 55 -

brand – in an industry that places huge import on heritage.

“Our creative benchmarks are very different from other watchmakers,” explains Pontroué.

“Instead of our own past, they range from contemporary architecture to sports cars, haute couture and so on… And Alvaro and I trust each other in this completely. He is seeing the Roger Dubuis world with different eyes, coming from a totally different culture – which is essential, as the brand hinges on its artistic depth.

“The one thing we know,” he adds, “is that if we copy, the chance of survival is low.”

This is liberating for Roger Dubuis, which doesn’t have a heritage to which it must slavishly pay tribute. “In fact,” Pontroué attests, “we are free to look outside the industry to realise some of our more outlandish concepts – like our quadruplebalance-wheel Quatuor, for example, whose fine tooling depended on a partnership with a medical care company.”

There’s no doubt about the standard of watchmaking at play here, though. In fact, Roger Dubuis is the only brand to have 100% of its output certified with the ‘Poinçon de Genève’seal of traditional, hand-finished excellence. Which is astounding, when you compare the brand’s sleek, futuristic aesthetics to, say, the traditional stylings of fellow Genevan, Vacheron Constantin.

Unnecessary, one could even argue, surely?

BULANGANDSONS.COM

Image: Rob Truijen

- ro g er d u b u i s -

“There’s a very good reason all our watches are Poinçon de Genève,” Pontroué retorts. “We can’t tell you that our skeletons are the nicest on the market, but if 100% of them meet the seal’s high standards, then you have something to discuss. You can’t argue with it – it’s giving us horological credibility where otherwise it might not be perceived.

“After all,” he continues, “if you want to exist in this industry, you can be all sorts of creative, but you always need at least one angle where you are deadly serious.”

So, with the question of watchmaking kudos firmly established, Roger Dubuis is free to go crazy. And from the watches themselves, to the retail concepts and branding, right down to the design of the press kit’s USB stick, this is a watch brand of rare coherence. The craziness envelops everything, with infectious commitment.

“R&D is hugely important to us,” says Pontroué. “The team had never worked on a concept like the Quatuor, or this year’s Skeletons, before and never will again – they’ll always be moving on to the next innovation.

“In fact, the days immediately after SIHH are the most depressing. We are all saying, ‘My god, what are we going to say next? How can we improve on this next year..?’ It’s our everyday challenge: to keep the seriousness in watchmaking, but to push the boundaries.

Roger Dubuis is a succession of new adventures every day.”

If this year’s adventure is anything to go for, Tempus can’t wait for 2016.

- 57 -

in brief Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO, Roger Dubuis Best business advice to budding entrepreneurs?

Be daring. Strive to be unlike anyone else.

What would you do if it wasn’t watches?

I’d probably be in television, where I was in an earlier life.

Which watch do you wear when it isn’t a Roger Dubuis?

The only one is a simple plastic Casio, which I wear to go running.

Your favourite restaurant in Geneva?

Le Floris, on the lake. Sublime, two-starred Michelin cuisine (lefloris.com).

Where would you love to live abroad?

Definitely New York – for its amazing energy.

LIMITED EDITION OF 499 PIECES O.H.M. (ORIGINAL HISTORICAL MOVEMENT) AN0711C IS OBTAINED FROM UT 600 PRODUCED IN 1958: 127 COMPONENTS, FLAT HAIR-SPRING, LEVER ESCAPEMENT, 18 JEWELS, 36 HOUR POWER RESERVE AND 18,000 VIBRATIONS PER HOUR. THROUGH THE SKILLED HANDS OF THE MASTER WATCHMAKERS ARMAND NICOLET TRANSFORMS THESE PRECIOUS ORIGINAL HISTORICAL MOVEMENTS IN REAL WORKS OF ART ENHANCING THE EXTRAORDINARY BEAUTY OF THIS UNIQUE PRODUCT, A PIECE OF HISTORY ON YOUR WRIST.

FOR INFORMATION: E-MAIL INFO@ARMANDNICOLET.COM PHONE +39 030 3772892

- sw i ss t ec h -

Words - Peter Jenkinson

Famous for timepieces and chocolate, the Swiss are excelling elsewhere

- 60 -

Leica T

Crafted from a single block of aluminium, this Leica is the epitome of style. The model T has the most chiselled looks of any camera we’ve seen.

Underneath lies substance, a 16.3MP CMOS sensor, sharp shutter speeds to capture every occasion and enough scene settings to satisfy all requests.

Access to the camera’s ample feature list is via the sizeable and ultra-responsive touch screen. selfridges.com

The Beast by ReQuest

Time to gather together that sprawling collection of digital audio and video files and place them all in one easily accessible spot. With its bold title this one should be up to the task. An enviable 2TB SSD drive gives faster access to files, while the internals offer outstanding performance. Take control on the seven-inch touch screen display, send files wirelessly to speaker systems and direct it, should you prefer, via an iOS or Android device. absolutesounds.com

DarTZeel CTH 8550 Amplifier

This amplifier stands above the rest and shouts loudest in terms of its design and superior sound quality. The company’s trademark combination of a gold front panel and red casework is stunning, and is the ideal outfit for the outstanding Swiss engineering inside. The CTH8550 is beautifully made, from the intricately machined pleasure control button (volume) to the solid feel of the casing. There is enough power to drive the biggest of speakers to their upper levels - and still keep some power in reserve. absolutesounds.com

- 61 -

THE ULTIMATE LUXURY GOLF AND LEISURE CAR Driven by our passion for golf

BUBBA WATSON has upgraded his previous golf cart to a customized Garia. Watch the video at www.garia.com

Garia is a unique vehicle, combining the convenience of a golf and leisure car with the experience of exquisite luxury. It is available in street legal, non-street legal, 4-passenger and roadster versions.

Customize it to your preferences using parts from our Garia Mansory Accessory Program - just like the five time PGA Tour winner Bubba Watson.

Book a test drive or design your own Garia at www.garia.com

- j ew ellery -

Jura Giga 5

Achieve barista standards of coffee creation as the engineering skills of professional machine makers are applied to this at-home device. Creating bean-to-cup coffee, and thus losing none of the flavour, the Giga uses ceramic grinders so that the sound of the procedure isn’t an irritant. Twin flow meters inside the machine perfectly blend milk and coffee for a truly impressive delivery. whittard.co.uk

Piega MasterONE speakers

These slimline footprint speakers hide a subwoofer unit at the rear and so deliver, when needed, subtle sounds. However, when required, they can quite easily shift to room-shaking status. The award-winning Piega range of sound systems is aluminium crafted and the full range extends to designs suitable for all spaces. Truly world-class speakers. piega.ch

Victorinox SwissChamp XAVT

Certainly too big to slip in your side pocket, yet with 72 physical functions, an LED light and seven digital duties, it deserves a bigger spot in which to sit. From the familiar fish scaler and wood saw to new digital additions that include a barometer, altimeter and thermometer, this 80-trick pony is a certain space saver, offering access to a multitude of tools in a paperweight that is easy on the eye. victorinox.com

- 63 -

C E L E B R AT I O N S DESERVE SOM ETH I NG C E L E B R AT E D

- wine -

Words - Peter Dean

Switzerland’s best-kept secret The Swiss love wine and statistics show they drink more of it than most other countries in the world. They also produce a fair few decent wines themselves

O

Haut de Pierre Dezaley grand cru, Blaise Duboux 2013 The train from Lausanne to Montreux passes under the steep vineyard slopes of this 500-yearold domaine on Lake Geneva, run by Blaise, the 17th generation of winemaker to work the soil.

The water acts as a temperature control and the reflection helps the grapes ripen. This is a fullflavoured chasselas made from old vines with a long growing season. As such, there is a terrific interplay here between a generous, rich nuttiness and a steely minerality, with just a twist of citrus

Divine wines fruit. Try and squirrel a few bottles away as it will be truly fascinating to see how this ages. laywheeler.com, £150 for six in bond Oeil de Perdrix AOC Neuchatel 2013 A sommelier commended my selecting this on a recent trip to Geneva and he wasn’t wrong.

This is a rosé like you have never tasted before – a dark salmon pink with bags of flavour and a full mouth-feel. You could drink this at any time of the day or night, and with any food; it is that versatile. One of the reasons it is so unique is that it is made from pinot noir and given an amazingly short fermentation of only one night. switzerland-wine.com, £17 a bottle Douce Noire, Domaine des Abeilles d’Or 2008 Switzerland is home to many rare and unique grapes, and this flagship, blended red uses gamaret grapes to stunning effect. Gamaret was first developed in the 1970s. It is related to pinot noir, but has more rounded tannins and a fleshier fruit. You can find it fortified as a dessert wine, made like Amarone though passerilage, and vinified on its own, and is delicious with spicy food or blended with syrah, or the equally unique garanoir. In this exceptional and prizewinning wine the grape is blended with cabernet sauvignon, merlot, garanoir and pinot noir. It is best served with red meat or cheese and will age well for at least a decade. alpinewines.co.uk, £30 a bottle

- 65 -

The world’s smallest vineyard is located in Swiss village of Saillon. Farinet Vineyard has precisely three vines, the fruit of which are blended with other grapes to make 1,000 limited edition bottles each year that sell up to $1,000 each. Named after a local Robin Hood figure, all of the proceeds go to a charity that is named each year by the vines’ owner, the Dalai Lama. All of the work involved in creating the wine is carried out by celebrities, who have included Princess Caroline of Monaco, Sir Ben Kingsley, Michael Schumacher and Juliette Binoche.

Phaendin / Shutterstock.com

ne wouldn’t normally associate Switzerland with making fine wines – you think it first as the home of great chocolate, cheese and timepieces. But not only does it produce some stunning wine from an array of more than 90 grape varieties, the Swiss love their wine, with the country boasting one of the highest per capita consumption totals in the world.This fact, combined with the relatively small acreage under vine, means that only 2% of the wines produced make it to export, and most of that is to Germany. The higher prices, resulting from the recent de-coupling from the euro, means that Swiss wine may become even rarer in the UK. Most of the grapes are grown in the south and the west of the country, split roughly 50/50 red and white, with pinot noir and indigenous grape chasselas being the most popular of each.

Because it is not part of the EU, Switzerland enjoys greater freedom in how it can produce wine (recently outlawing the common practice of blending Swiss and imported wine), preferring a second and softening malolactic fermentation which means that the wines are less tannic and softer than their altitude might suggest. If you think that this is wine to simply wash cheese fondue down with, think again. Fine Swiss wine could be the country’s best-kept secret.

The

Got a question about timepieces?

Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say…

Should I go the Apple way?

I’m thinking about buying an Apple watch.

I started wondering how all the watch snobs out there were treating the overall new trend towards smartwatches as far as their collectibility goes?

I make a point of sedulously avoiding taking notice of, thinking about, or in any way acknowledging even the bare fact of the existence of so-called smartwatches.

Smartphones are bad enough and I use one only under extreme duress.

Many things are collectible – watches, modernist collages from the People’s Republic of China. Some The Swiss enjoy collecting limited editions of those annoying little plastic cups with sealed foil tops you get with your coffee (this is actually true). Smartwatches might be collectible at some point too, but I see no more point in collecting them than in taking notice of the fluff in one’s belly button.

Ditch the gift?

I know and share your great dislike of fashion designer labels that charge exorbitant amounts for a watch that has no redeeming qualities.

If you received such a watch from a loved one as a gift, what would be your relationship with the watch going forward?

Not too many Christmases ago, my favourite great-niece handed me, with a smile of joyful innocence and Christmas spirit, a little box which, when opened, revealed a mockery of a

Rolex Submariner. I watched the seconds hand beat to the urging of the daemonic stepper motor within, too transfixed with horror to twitch a hair.

I wore it for the rest of the day, went back home and poured boiling phenol over my wrist in the privacy of my own bathroom, but I wore it. Some things are more important than watches.

G-Shock shocks?

I recently bought a G-Shock MTG S1000.

I know you have a certain soft spot for G-Shock, as I can recount at least two occasions when you have recommended them to your readers. My question is: what are your thoughts on G-Shock?

The toilet brush next to the porcelain WC down the hall from my bedchamber is the right tool for its job, but that doesn’t mean I want to brush my remaining hairs with it.

G-Shocks, like any honest tool, are best when unornamented and purposeful – and they are not a substitute for a proper watch.

At their best, the G-Shocks have a utilitarian dignity and a commendable disdain for superfluous ornamentation. At their worst, they can look garish, crude and uncomfortable with themselves, like an honest country farm hand forced into a suit. You figure out which is which.

don’t wind me up I have accumulated a small collection of enjoyable mechanical watches.

My job requires me to spend most of my time travelling and it appears that my daily physical activity fails to produce the energy needed to keep an automatic watch running. I resorted to a hand-wound watch (a true rarity these days, sadly), but with jet lags of 12 hours I often forget to wind it. It is a waste wearing a good watch that is not running. I have therefore decided to buy a quartz watch to wear when I am on the road and in the air.

If such a species is known to mankind at all, could you recommend a quartz watch that will not provoke your squeamishness?

Oh god, must you? There are so many options open to you – alarms on your smartphone, asking the flight attendant to remind you to wind your watch, wearing a self-winding watch but hand-winding it occasionally to keep the mainspring topped off. Quartz isn’t a necessity, it’s a choice. However, if you absolutely must wear a quartz watch I’m unable to understand why you can’t find what you are looking for in the Seiko repertoire – the caliber 9F quartz Grand Seikos would seem to fit the bill.

Seiko isn’t the only game in town, of course.

There is Citizen’s The Citizen; there are any number of weirdly interesting solar-powered multifunction quartz watches; there are oddball design efforts with a freakish appeal like the Nooka watches; and the list goes on. How about this: the Pulsar PSR-10? Once upon a time Pulsar actually made a high-frequency quartz watch intended to maintain an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year, which is more than an order of magnitude better than the average quartz watch. See if you can find one.

To read more from the Watch Snob, head to askmen.com - 66 -

More compelling than outer beauty, we reshape your identity

Anti-Aging | Aesthetic Dermatology | Laser Treatments | Regenerative Medicine Clinic LĂŠmanic | Av. de la Gare 2 | 1003 Lausanne | TĂŠl: +41 21 321 54 44 | www.cliniclemanic.ch

- t h o u g h t lea d ers h i p -

Invest in a piece of history Buy the seller, not the watch This is a phrase that is heard a lot in the vintage watch world – and it’s advice worth taking. It is always worth the extra money it costs to buy from a trusted source who can, and will, guarantee any piece they sell.

Luxury losses We live in an era in which luxury is measured in an ultra-high net worth context – where cars, clothes and watches are big and brash, with a hint (or daub) of bling. Always striving for the latest version, we look for a faster engine, a quicker smartphone and the latest technological advances.

Aspirational acquisitions are often delivered after a few weeks on a waiting list, followed by the inevitable loss of 30% of your investment the minute you drive away from the dealership or remove the protective stickers from your new timepiece.

Investing in the past There is, however, a growing interest in vintage luxury, in buying the design classics on which so many modern pieces are based.

Vintage Louis Vuitton bags, Porsche 911s, Mont Blanc pens and Rolex wristwatches have a timeless elegance and are as relevant (or more so) as the day they were made.

A vintage watch I am passionate about vintage watches and the romantic aesthetic of a timepiece that has lived its life and has the warm ageing that can only come from decades of service – what we call patina. A vintage Rolex Datejust or Submariner can also be a wise investment if the buyer does their research and knows how to avoid buying a watch that has been messed around with in some way.

Which watch and why?

Some vintage timepieces represent better buys than others, but we always recommend that you

buy a watch because you love it, or because it ‘speaks to you’ in some way. Some of the classic watches that will always appreciate (if bought wisely) are the Rolex Submariner, Omega Speedmaster and, more recently, the Tudor Submariner (with the so-called Snowflake hands). There has been a surge in interest in chronograph watches from the 1940s, too. It is, however, vital that you buy the very best example that you can.

Buy it right Buying a vintage watch can be a minefield, especially when it’s a Rolex or a Tudor. The slightest detail can make a difference of hundreds of thousands of pounds in value. As with anything, it pays to do your research first.

There are some great resources out there, with lots of important information to increase your knowledge and help you make an informed choice. Here are three key tips to help you:

- 68 -

Does it look its age?

You are buying a vintage watch and it should have the signs of wear that 40 or 50 years gives, unless you are lucky enough to find a ‘new-oldstock’ example. Always be wary of brand-new looking cases, with sharp edges and uncharacteristically large case lugs. A vintage watch will have a natural patina, acquired over time.

A good case refinisher can make a case look new to the untrained eye, but a purist will want the case in an unpolished condition and will pay a premium for such detail.

Originality is key It is inevitable that a watch will have been worked on by various watchmakers and official service centres during its lifetime. One aspect of watch servicing is the replacement of wornout parts and key components, such as dials, hands and bezel inserts. You need to be sure that these parts are original – even original service replacement parts can halve the value of a vintage Rolex Submariner. Additionally, in past years watchmakers routinely used not only to repaint the luminous markers on watch dials to replace the ‘dead’ lume, but also repaint the lettering. This was useful at the time, but for collectors it makes a watch much less desirable and can affect its value considerably.

Bernhard Bulang of Bulang & Sons

What makes Borro a trusted source for loans?

SPEED

EASE

PRIVACY

LUXURY ASSET LOANS

SALE ADVANCE LOANS

Use your luxury watches, luxury cars, fine art and more to secure a loan and get your assets back once the loan is repaid.

Get funds in advance while Borro experts manage the sale of your luxury assets to maximise the sale value for you.

Representative APR: 79.4%

Speak with a dedicated specialist 0808 223 2768 London • New York • Los Angeles

Learn more online borro.com/tempus

A Luxury Asset Loan is not a long-term financial solution. In the event that you do not repay your loan to Borro, the asset(s) that you used to secure your loan may be sold by Borro in order to recover the outstanding loan balance as per the terms and conditions of your signed loan contract.

’ Let s have some fun Fine jewellery used to be so conservative, but this year it seems designers are ditching the straight lace in favour of something more vibrant. Laura McCreddie looks at the people putting the ‘joy’ back into haute joiallerie

- 70 -

- j ew ellery -

Words - Laura McCreddie

R

ed carpet season is, for members of the general public, an exercise in armchair rubbernecking. Stars that have been primed and preened to within an inch of their lives parade in front of us while we pass comment, and judgment, on their choice of outfit, hairstyle and other half. It’s a meat market, but with more money on show.

However, it can also be an interesting insight into which, out of the pieces paraded on the world’s catwalks four months earlier are actually workable in real life – or as real a life as that bubble is.

It is here that you start to get a feel for the trends in jewellery, in particular, that will actually make it into the mainstream.

And if this year is anything to go by, things are definitely more playful than they have been in previous years.

“The ironic, the playful and the mismatched are what I predict to be the big jewellery trends of 2015,” says Tessa Packard, a London-based jewellery designer whose latest collection, Fat Free, is inspired by pop art and the traditional English penny sweet. “I think we will see designers both intellectualise and challenge the language of fine jewellery to create pieces that reflect independent thought and style, as well as contemporary culture.”

Packard is certainly a designer cut from this cloth. All her collections have a sense of humour and irreverence, but these aren’t mere fripperies and trinkets – they are made from serious stones and precious metals.

An example of this new fun attitude towards high-end jewellery is the ear cuff. Once the preserve of the Camden-frequenting, DM-wearing teenager, it is now a red carpet staple.

As Packard points out: “Repossi’s Berbere ear cuff appeared to adorn the ear of every celebrity on the red carpet.”

She also thinks that the new direction is a result of jewellery designers becoming less afraid of experimenting with what ‘fine jewellery’ means.

“The fear of creating avant-garde fine jewellery is dissipating among jewellers,” she explains.

“Fundamentally, the demographic of fine jewellery buyers is getting younger, and jewellers are beginning to understand that buyers are looking to invest in something that makes an impression, that defines them as unique individuals with independent aesthetics.”

It looks like the twinset and pearl brigade will have to look elsewhere for their purchases.

- 71 -

- j ew ellery -

Smith/Grey

There is something of the dream state about Smith/Grey’s jewellery. The design duo, comprising designer Birgit Marie Schmidt and creative strategist Sofus Graae, is inspired by memories, stories and traditions, all of which give their pieces a surreal quality. The perfect example of this is their I Can’t Seem to Get Rid of the Horses collection, which features equine forms repeated and conjoined in designs that are both beautiful and nightmarish in equal measure. smith-grey.com

Yunus and Eliza

It’s not hard to see that Yunus Ascott and Eliza Higginbottom started out as sculptors. Their pieces are essentially wearable art that feel as if they have been discovered on some ancient Greco-Roman burial site. Rings feature long plumes that stretch down the hand, while necklaces are adorned with half-formed faces or swan’s claws and feather wings. It’s not entirely playful but it’s certainly boundary-stretching. yunus-eliza.co.uk

Graff

Considering Graff ’s reputation for acquiring and setting some of the most phenomenal stones the ground has ever given up, you’d might not expect it to be known for being experimental with its designs. And you’d be wrong. There is no doubt that the stones are taken very seriously here but, from beautifully whimsical butterflies to the ring watches that will be on show at this year’s Basel, how Graff sets them is where the fun lies. graffdiamonds.com

De Grisogono

No one could ever accuse De Grisogono of making boring, conservative fine jewellery. This is flamboyant, effervescent design at its very best. However, don’t be fooled into thinking it is a brand that doesn’t get serious when it comes to its fine jewellery skills – behind every stone-set peacock or articulated flower lies a wealth of haute joaillerie knowledge. degrisogono.com

- 72 -

- j ew ellery -

Jessica de Lotz

A tin found in Bordeaux containing a soldier’s love letters, a collection of ephemera from someone’s 21st birthday party, or old-fashioned wax seals – all these have been the inspiration for the collections of Jessica de Lotz. There is a romance and a whimsy at the heart of everything she does and all the pieces feel like found Victoriana, already heavy with past lives. jessicadelotz.co.uk

Messika

It was set up by Valérie, daughter of famed Parisian diamond dealer André Messika, with the sole intention of making diamond jewellery more appealing to a younger generation – more leather jacket and jeans than white blouse and pencil skirt. The Move collection – with its stones gliding up and down an oblong cutout – embodies this ethos perfectly. messika.com

Brumani

Brazil is a country renowned for its vibrancy, passion and love of colour and it is precisely these qualities that Brumani aims to capture in its jewellery. At its heart is the clever interplay between stones – mixing colours and cuts to create pieces that feel as full of life as Rio de Janeiro’s famous carnival. brumani.com

Tessa Packard

Celebrating creativity and individuality has been Packard’s modus operandi since she launched her brand with a fine jewellery collection inspired by all the vibrancy of Mexico back in 2013. Since then, she has really challenged the idea that fine jewellery has to be conservative. Her latest collection, Fat Free, is the perfect example of this – where else would you see fried-egg earrings made from diamonds, white gold and yellow topaz? tessapackard.com

- 73 -

Keech Green ARCHITECTURAL INTERIOR DESIGN

Keech Green specializes in the interior design and architectural development of private residential projects ranging in size from 400 square meters to 3,000 square meters.

Our principle aim is to ensure that we fully realise our client’s brief. Working with the finest materials and craftsmen, we strive to create interiors that are classic and timeless in terms of design and style. A desire for longevity ensures that Keech Green’s projects rise above the prevalence of short term ‘fashion statements’ that pervade the design industry. Graham Green

KEECH GREEN | 414 DESIGN CENTRE EAST LONDON SW10 0XF | TEL: 020 7351 5701 | KEECHGREEN.COM | INFO@KEECHGREEN.COM

p ro m ot i o n

The World’s finest china, Crystal & Silver Tableware

9A Windsor End, Beaconsfield, Buckinghamshire HP9 2JJ England t: 00 44 (0)1494 680488 e: info@delamerie.com www.delamerie.com

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Because the best things in life aren’t free

- 77 -

Celebrate Springtime

M I K I ELETA'S T R ES CA R AC O LES

The clocks go forward in the UK on 29 March at 1am. To celebrate the official start of springtime how about investing in this work of art?

Miki Eleta, Swiss artist and selftaught clockmaker, created this showstopper called Tres Caracoles, which features some of the most sought-after complications in the world. This one of a kind is sure to look rather impressive on the mantelpiece and features a musical movement in which the melody won’t repeat itself for at least 200 years. mikieleta.com

Mother's Day Gift Guide

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Snuggle up

C RO SA R A P U R E CAS H M ER E T H ROW The fabric is gorgeous, but the colour - an icy bluewhite - makes this piece ultra stylish. Designed and finished in Italy. Crosara is a throw made from pure superfine cashmere wool, and is characterised by an extremely light, soft and fluffy structure that caresses the skin. Equally at home on a sofa or lounge chair, this throw has such unmatched softness and comfort it can also be worn as a luxury shawl. lizardorchid.com

Say it with chocolate

G O D I VA BA LLOT I N TOW ER

Whose mum doesn’t love expensive chocolate? This tower, made from the classic Godiva Ballotin chocolate boxes, is filled to the brim with the creamiest, richest white, milk and dark chocolate with the finest fillings. All held together with a gorgeous Godiva ribbon. godiva.com

- 78 -

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Do the write thing

RO S E-G O LD P LAT ED ASTO N M A RT I N P EN

While the brand may be more associated with macho men, this beauty of a pen is perfect for the discerning woman.

Each piece is encased in a stunning presentation box. grantmacdonald.com/astonmartin

For tote-ally amazing mums BAG FELI O S I BY

All mums love their children, but you will definitely be their favourite person in the world if you buy her this stunning tote from Felio Silby.

Handmade in the US in Nile crocodile, it features golden Italian hardware. feliosiby.com

- 79 -

Ferrari 250 GTO

Lamborghini Miura

SWISS ARTIST

presents a unique collectible 1:24 sculpture of the most famous iconic sports cars The Ferrari 250 GTO and the legendary Lamborghini Miura are the third and fourth in the award winning artist series of iconic sports cars after the Mercedes Benz 300SL and the Aston Martin DB5. The latest release is the Ford GT 40.

A limited edition of 50 pieces from each car will be made in solid silver finished with 24 karat gold.

One special edition of each iconic sports car will be made in solid gold of 18 karat finished with 24 karat gold.

Every art piece comes with a piano black lacquered case containing a solid silver USB Stick finished with 24 Karat gold, containing the certificate and a number of videos of Dante’s artwork.

Now available DANTE USB stick pure silver 46.5 g and 24 karat gold plated, supplied with a piano black lacquered case. The ultra-fast USB 3.0 stick has storage space for 64 GB of data.

Design by Dante GmbH | Murtenstr. 34 | CH-3202 Frauenkappelen | Switzerland | info@dantedesign.ch | www.dantedesign.ch

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Take note

S M YT H S O N CA R D A N D N OT EB O O K Say it with Smythson with this gorgeous Mother’s Day card – and this fabulous little notebook. Or think about some bespoke stationery from the worldfamous brand. Frankly, she’ll probably adore anything from this luxury brand. smythson.com

Check mate

T H E A RT C H ESS S ET

The latest Art Chess sets from Purling London include this great work by photo artist Kate Brinkworth. In blue and pink, it will would look perfect in the sitting room – but is just yearning to be played. purlinglondon.com

- 81 -

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Time for tea?

FI N E G O LD TA B LEW EA R This is the ultimate in fine tablewear, and is presumably not something your mother would want cleaned in the dishwasher.

Created by De Lamerie, makers of some of the world’s finest china, crystal and silver, the company also design exclusive table settings with individual crest or colours to suit the owner’s dining room. delamerie.com

Will work a charm

PAV E D I A M O N D B R AC ELET I N 1 8 CT Y ELLOW G O LD

The beauty of a charm bracelet is that it can be added to on special occasions – birthdays, anniversaries – or just when the moment grabs you. So this is perfect for mothers who will appreciate the fact that you plan, in future, to buy her many more. This one is from Asprey – so it’s even more perfect. asprey.com

- 82 -

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

A box of love

AS P R EY'S G EM CAS E This fabulous jewellery box is both stylish and functional – two things that mothers love. With plenty of space and useful compartments, this one is made from suede bullskin. asprey.com

For the fashionista

W H Y N OT T R EAT YO U R M U M TO A FT ER N O O N T EA? The Balthazar in London’s Covent Garden has collaborated with renowned British fashion designer Matthew Williamson to create an offering inspired by his latest Spring/Summer 2015 collection.

- 83 -

Terre Blanche, land of inspiration, Pure luxury...

A unique destination in Provence, combining nature, serenity, golf and well-being.

A 45-minute drive from Nice Côte d’Azur Internationational Airport. Helicopter access.

TERRE BLANCHE HOTEL SPA GOLF RESORT***** 115 SUITES & VILLAS • 4 RESTAURANTS • SPA • KIDS CLUB • TWO 18-HOLE GOLF COURSES • ALBATROS GOLF PERFORMANCE CENTER • REAL ESTATE 3100 Route de Bagnols-en-Forêt • 83440 Tourrettes • Var • France Réservations Hôtel : +33 (0)4 94 39 36 00 - reservations.hotel@terre-blanche.com www.terre-blanche.com

- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Make time for your mother T H E S U P ER-STY LI S H N O M O S T ET R A

Really show your mother how much you love her - and how super stylish she is - with this Nomos Tetra timepiece.

It features bold Arabic numerals and elegant stick hands and is perfect as a dress watch - or for weekend casual wear. It comes in a variety of colours but this one in grey and green is certainly our favourite. nomos-glashuette.com

The Ivy

U N D ER T H E H A M M ER Iconic items from the legendar y theatreland restaurant are going under the hammer for charity at the Sotheby’s sale. Our favourites include this image of Marilyn and, perfect for mother’s day, the sign for the ladies. sothebys.com

- 85 -

-g ro o m i n g -

Words - Peter Jenkinson

- 86 -

-g ro o m i n g -

Banish the Beard Hirsute hommes are on the way out with the fashion for facial hair on the wane, say scientists and fashionistas. Here’s our Tempus guide to the gentlemen’s grooming trends for 2015

T

he end of the beard is nigh, ‘peak beard’ is upon us. This isn’t a handful of style gurus claiming to run the facial hair show, this, gentlemen, is science. The relentless rise in the growth of beard popularity may actually be about to subside – and even go into reverse. Researchers have uncovered a phenomenon known as “negative frequencydependent sexual selection” and it may mark the downfall of the facial accessory.

The research conducted by the University of New South Wales found that when women are confronted by a succession of bearded men, clean-shaven men become more attractive to them. And while the man on the street still seems to be sporting the beard, the catwalks are going fuzz-free and stylists say that most men will follow suit.

But how to get the best shave on skin that has not been near a razor for a year or more?

1. Choose a Good Time If you’ve been beardy for a while the skin underneath may well be a bit lighter than the rest of your face and may well be a tad more sensitive. It might be better then to go clean at the start of a weekend or keep your diary clear for a few days ahead.

2. Mow Down Get it down to a manageable length with a beard trimmer or set of clippers. Better still, get down to Truefitt Hill in St James’s Street, London, and get the job done professionally. truefittandhill.co.uk 3. Shave Shower or bathe beforehand to open the pores.

A top-quality cream and sharp blade are essential; stretch your skin tight as you go and ensure you apply a splash of cool water at the end.

4. Moisturise This is critical, even if you’re not shaving the beard. Always use a good post-shave moisturiser to promote healing and moisturise the skin.

- 87 -

The rise of the man spa by Jay Boisvert There is a trend towards creating bespoke menus that cater for the specific needs of male grooming. One of the best in London is the Dorchester Spa, which is offering Valmont’s: A Journey to the Mont-Fort Facial for men.

With treatments designed especially for the spa, this is the only place in London to offer these fatigue-fighting treatments for men in need.

The Journey to the MontFort Facial is a deeply moisturising experience, designed specifically for men’s skin care and is available in three grades – express, complete, and intensive depending on the time you can spare.

For those on the hoof the express includes cleansing, exfoliation, a moisturising massage and T-zone detox and eye reflexology to decongest the eye contour area.The complete version features eye and face masks, as well as a powerful deep-tissue shoulder massage to help break down aches and pains caused by tight muscles.

Finally, for those with more time to spare the intensive treatment incorporates a full body massage.

The Dorchester Spa reopened after a complete refurb and feels both glamorous, contemporary and utterly relaxing, a world away from the bustle outside.

Whatever treatment you opt for ensure that you make time to for lunch in the patisserie under the exotic pearl-laden chandelier for some lunch, including perhaps champagne and cocktails.

Remember – a little of what you love is good.

www.jfitzpatrickfootwear.com

35 Bruton Place | W1J 6NS | London, UK

the essentials Braun Series 7 799cc

Carlton collection Say goodbye to sub-standard plastic handles and install one of these fine devices by your sink. The super badger shaving brush loaded with shave cream will bring stubble to shaveready position. The handcrafted razors take Mach III blades inside their specially crafted and weighted form to assist you in performing a smooth and safe shave. truefittandhill.co.uk

The most advanced shaver ever released

by Braun with more computing technology than NASA’s Apollo 11.

Using patented sonic technology it actively manages the power of the shaving system, reading your face and adjusting according to the density of your stubble. When done, return back to base where the cleaning centre gives it a thorough going over at the touch of a button. braun.com/uk

Klhip Crafted from surgical grade stainless steel, the Klhip are the clippers that’ll not spend their days hidden away their design is so aesthetically exciting. They offer plenty of substance too – the revolutionary design gives improved control as well as increased leverage.

Ergonomically perfect - complete with handmade leather case. thefowndry.com

Foreo Luna This powered silicone brush is the perfect way to wake up your face before you embark on a wet-blade shave. By sending sonic pulsations through its touch points the brish drives out daily grime and instantly refreshes the face.

On the reverse it offers lower frequency pulsations that’ll reduce wrinkles and fine lines. Fully waterproof, the Luna should be part of your new daily routine. foreo.com

- 89 -

-g ro o m i n g -

Le Beau ideal Taking a truly bespoke and madeto-measure approach to non-invasive surgery, this clinic has an extensive client base and is staffed with the most experienced, qualified practitioners.

From its Harley Street location, Le Beau offers an enviable pop-in treatment list, the results of which are instant and long-lasting, with awardwinning post-procedure care. The clinic can also help with the effects of a work hard/play hard lifestyle from both an aesthetic and physiological aspect. It is well worth an online visit or quick call to discuss your expectations with them. lebeauideal.co.uk

Nurse Jamie EGF Platinum 3 Premium Shave Oil + Facial Elixir For Men contains three precious oils and is infused with pure platinum for the ultimate shaving experience. The restorative solution will help free even the most sensitive skin from ingrown hairs, razor burns or painful irritation. It also acts as a nutrient-infused hydrator to seal and protect skin from the elements. harrods.com

Xanthe This incredible new collection covers all the skincare products needed to manage and maintain the skin. The line-up of six treatments is crammed with a number of key revolutionary active ingredients. The meteorite complex contains two main organic substances that are rich in iron, calcium and magnesium and are proven to have a positive impact on the skin. A highly credible brand offering quite incredible results. A bathroom essential for the home and for washbags on the road. xanthe.co.uk

Edwin Jagger shaving cream The perfect companion for your shaving brush, available in four fine formulas for varying skin types. The cream produces an even lather leading to an overall better shave finish. englishshavingcompany.co.uk

- 90 -

- fr ag r a n c e -

Words - Bethan Cole

Scents of worth T

he huge wave of unisex, ‘gender neutral’ fragrances that hit the shops during the previous decade’s niche perfume boom has liberated men from some of the more traditional, masculine fragrances, which can be clichéd and alcohol-heavy.

Instead, a plethora of more interesting scents are now available, such as florals (rose oils were once the scent of kings), orientals and chypres, without having to resort to buying something that is targeted at women.

It means there is now more choice for men than ever before and they can happily wear a vanillic oriental, such as Roja Dove’s sublime By Appointment, with no shame at all.

With literally hundreds of exciting niche brands, such as Eight and Bob, there are no longer monolithic trends for men.

The market has atomised into a thousand mini modes and is all the more better for it.

1. Bentley Infinite

Bentley has very successfully translated the luxe ethos of its car manufacture into fragrance.

This sleek fragrance blends brilliant shiny top notes of citrus with green aromatic cedar and lavender. Heart notes of violet and geranium lend it a floral flourish, while the overall sensation is one of masculine sensuality and strength. Very classy. £43 for 60ml

1

2

2. Clive Christian No 1 for men

3. Dunhill Icon

Clive Christian makes some of the most expensive and exclusive perfumes in the world using the finest and rarest essential oils.

This is a woody oriental, and although it opens with a bright fanfare of citrus notes, it mellows into something deeply luxuriant, opulent and masculine, with Florentine orris, ylang ylang, Tahitian vanilla and tonka bean. £450 for 50ml

New creative director John Ray is breathing neoteric ideas into the venerable British luxury brand. This, his first fragrance launch, is an appositely bright and gleaming new start by the celebrated nose Carlos Benaim, lambent with fresh bergamot and neroli absolute, as well as black pepper, smoky oud, leather and moss. It smells like a thousand glassy surfaces refracting coruscating light. £55 for 50ml

- 92 -

4. Eight and Bob Cap D’Antibes

The charming French village of Antibes is where Eight and Bob founder Albert Fouquet spent long summers in the 1930s with an elite coterie of European aristocracy. Accordingly, the fragrance smells of sea spray, sunshine and aromatic plants; it is a fulgent summer blend of violet leaves, mint, birch, cinnamon, moss and green notes. £125 for 100ml

3

5

7

4

6

8

5. Ermenegildo Zegna Peruvian Ambrette

This scent is derived from one of perfumery’s most expensive and rare ingredients, the ambrette seed. The seeds have a very small yield and produce a fragrant essential oil – a sweet, rich musk – via a multi-step process. The resulting fragrance is very manly, but also dense, sensual, exotic and warm. £140 for 125ml

6. Jo Malone Birch and Black Pepper

This is part of a new limited edition collection from Jo Malone called Rock The Ages, celebrating British history. Birch and Black Pepper has been created to celebrate and embody the modern day and, even though it is unisex, is probably best suited to an alpha male. It’s dry and dessicated, and almost tangible in its evocation of wood. £42 for 30ml

7. Roja Dove

By Appointment

The apogee of exclusivity, this is a truly haute couture fragrance.

It comes in an ornate jewelled flacon with 18ct gold cap set with 486 flawless diamonds and handcut amethysts. The liquid itself contains flecks of gold leaf and the smell is sublime: an elegant unisex oriental with bergamot and orange, rose and jasmine, vanilla, musk, civet and ambergris. £75,000 for 100ml and two refills

- 93 -

8. Xerjoff Regio Casamorati

A rich blend of fresh citrus and lavender, intertwined with spices and rare precious woods, it has a liquorice base, which is a rather unusual ingredient for a perfume, that works well in the warmer spring months. £220 for 75ml

- fr ag r a n c e -

This season’s fragrances for women are a fantasia of fruits and flowers. Fruity, floral fragrances have suffered during the previous decade – becoming ubiquitous and dominated by the downmarket, ersatz and saccharine celebrity scent.

However, this season they’re back but in more refined and elegant iterations, less obvious and synthetic, as exemplified

by Armani’s Pivione Suzhou, which has a tart and acidic facet to it, tempering the sweetness and light. Purer soliflore (single flower) fragrances such as Penhaligon’s Ostara, inspired by the daffodil, are also arriving in stores.

But by far the biggest soliflore trend is the return of the rose. Rose fragrances had become widely associated with toiletries – hand creams, bubble baths, talc – and were often old fashioned. But for the past two years or so perfumers have been reviving the rose and setting it in a constellation of other harmonious and crucially contemporary notes.

1. Dama Bianca

This fragrance, also known as the White Lady, is presented in a special edition 100ml frosted glass bottle. It offers a sumptuous floral bouquet with undertones of warmth and complexity and notes of fruits and flowers.

Prices start from £240

1

2

2. Living Lalique

One for perfume flacon collectors, this elegant art nouveau-inspired bottle is modelled on an original design by René Lalique in 1911.

The juice itself evokes as the smell of your mother’s make-up, a wondrous powdery and soft iris scent made voluptuous by complementary heart notes of tonka bean and vanilla. £69 for 50ml

3. Francis Kurkdijan A La Rose

Kurkdijan calls this ‘an ode to femininity’ and it is certainly that, evoking the fleshy pink of damascene roses from Bulgaria and centifolia roses from Grasse.

This is refined classic perfumery, taking the very finest raw ingredients and crafting an exquisitely honeyed and plump fragrance, with raw edges of natural rose oil just faintly detectable in the blend. £145 for 70ml

- 94 -

4. Cartier La Panthére

Mathilde Laurent, Cartier’s young in-house nose, is really carving out a niche for herself as an original sparky perfumer.

La Panthére, the nickname of Cartier’s lover and muse Jeanne Toussaint, is a floral chypre with notes of gardenia and sensual musk. There is a dryness to it, from oak moss, that lends a certain haute élégance. £72 for 50ml

3

5

7

4

6

8

5. Diptyque Florabellio

Sea spray, sunshine and coffee are the prime characteristics of this quirky and whimsical summer scent. A light dance of salty spray, sea fennel and apple blossom with a little caffeinated kick, it is unusual, charming and unexpected – and yet it works.

Perfect for getting that summer holiday feeling, even when you’re in the back garden. £58 for 50ml

6. Aerin Rose de Grasse

Aerin Lauder’s aspirational Hamptons lifestyle has given birth to an incredibly covetable brand. Impossibly romantic and undeniably pretty and alluring, this perfume is a pristine symphony of roses – that most classic of blooms – and includes centifolia rose, Bulgarian rose and rose absolute. Ambrette seed, violet leaf ambrox and musk lend it fortitude and staying power. £135

7. Penhaligon’s Ostara

Created by the critically acc laimed nose Bertrand Duchafour, this perfume is like sunshine in a bottle – a nuanced, light and delicate ode to the daffodil that would have made Wordsworth proud. Duchafour cleverly embellished the essence of narcissus absolute with notes of clementine, bergamot and red berries to add freshness and translucency. £78 for 50ml

- 95 -

8. Armani Pivoine Suzhou

Inspired by Suzhou, a Chinese city and World Heritage site described by explorer Marco Polo as the ‘Venice of the East’, this is a winsome floral built around the delicate and supremely feminine odour of peony. There is an abundance of rose in the formulation, which adds to the petal-soft allure, but there is also a tartness that saves it from bland ubiquity. £105 for 100ml

The original artworks - Roma - Amor (80 x 100 cm) & You are Enough (80 x 100) - are part of Sirenes Flower Power Collection

The original artworks - Happy (80 x 100cm) & Thank You All (70 x 100 cm) - are part of Sirenes Flower Power Collection

Find more exclusive artwork and print at : www.sirenes.no +47 478 89 841 post@sirenes.no

- 100 -

-t r av el -

Words - Claudia Batchelor

Latino luxury - 101 -

-t r av el -

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Previously known as Hispaniola and coveted equally by European royalty and renegade pirates for its strategic position in the Caribbean, the DR is as diverse as it is richly layered with history. The island adjoins neighbouring Haiti and boasts an incredible seven airports to serve the international market.

There is much to see and do in the DR, and the variation in the types of visitors it attracts has made a definitive mark on both the north and south coasts.The main tourist hub is centred on the southern city of Punta Cana, teeming with high-end, all-inclusive resorts that are as luxurious as anywhere in the Caribbean.

White-sand beaches and crystal waters combine perfectly with personal butlers and gourmet dining at it’s finest.

Where to stay

The Paradisus is the best hotel in Punta Cana for it location, impeccable service and Michelin-star dining. www.melia.com/en/hotels/dominican-republic/puntacana/paradisus-punta-cana-resort

-t r av el -

MEXICO

Lying on the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula, the Cabo San Lucas coastline is a magnet for tourists, making it one of Mexico’s top five visited destinations.The rich marine creatures that breed, live and migrate in its waters also make Cabo an aquatic Eden, abundant in life.

While swimming on the Pacific side of Cabo is not advised due to treacherous waters and rough waves, there are plenty of fantastic beaches on the bayside, where surfing spots also abound.

Hotels are mostly all inclusive, although some smaller boutique hotels are also springing up.

If you’re a night-owl, staying in the centre of town alongside the marina is a must. Lively bars, fantastic food and stunning vistas make this a great holiday destination, where service is very much geared towards the (largely) US community. The infamous Hotel California is a short drive away in the picturesque town of Todos Santos, and boasts a great cocktail selection and mouthwatering menu.

Where to stay

“Redefines luxury and pampering,” claims the website, and we cannot argue with such a magnificent resort. On-point Mexican architecture and décor is one of the reasons why Las Ventanas has been voted number one on Trip Advisor this year already. www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/las-ventanas-los-cabos

- 103 -

Born for serious fun LuxuryWaterToys provides yacht standing watersports services, sales and Rental. Our innovative and exclusive products are selected and designed to meet your high expectations. Our Jetsurf is the lightest powered surfboard ever built. Made from high tech materials such as Carbon Fibre and Kevlar, the Jetsurf will bring a whole new, thrilling experience to your time on the water. The Jetsurf combines physical effort and pure fun, mixing the world of extreme sport with the world of Luxury.

VIP Training: We offer you an exclusive service with personal trainers. Wherever you want - in villas, hotels or on a boat. Whenever you whant - our teams are avalaible at any time to show you the perfect match between serious action and fun. As Jetsurf World Champions 2013, we guarantee you the highest quality instruction. Let us show you a new form of leisure - we know you will be amazed.

www.luxurywatertoys.eu - info@luxurywatertoys.eu - +33(0)6.18.93.07.57

-t r av el -

COLOMBIA

Previously a no-go zone due to the ‘narco-wars’ of the 80s and 90s, Colombia is enjoying something of a renaissance, both in tourism and business.

The only country in South America to be framed by the Pacific and Caribbean waters, this jewel in Latin America’s crown has everything that those seeking adventure could wish for. World Heritage sites such as Cartagena embrace a rich culture and tradition, alongside globally-feted gastronomic and musical delights. Internationally famous music and food festivals sit alongside literary gatherings, which is why the Hay Festival has, for the past six years, included Colombia in its novel and writers-promoting calendar, the only place outside of the UK to hold such a prestige. The northern coastal region is where visitors can trek virgin jungles and cool off in turquoise seas, submerge their whole body into the crater of a mud volcano, dive in some of the planet’s richest marine-life oceans and go birdwatching for thousands of species, a huge number being endemic to its land. The country has the world’s second-highest biodiversity numbers after Brazil, while being just a fraction of its size.

Where to stay

Cartagena: the ubiquitous Santa Clara dates back to the 17th century and was previously a monastery. As one of the leading hotels of the world, it provides luxury services and products, alongside gourmet dining and private butlers. www.sofitel-legend.com/cartagena/en/

- 105 -

-t r av el -

VENEZUELA

The country’s coastal waters are another Caribbean fantasy. They’re easy to navigate and offer the chance to escape from crowded cities.

Los Roques, a protected archipelago just 80 miles off the north coast, is a splendid example of how beautiful Mother Nature can be. An easy flight from Caracas will take you to uncrowded beaches, turquoise waters and spectacular wildlife that has attracted wealthy Europeans since the 70s, when the area became a protected national park.

Many visitors cruise the 350 island cays in private yachts and boats, but it is recommended that you hire your own vessel and be your own pirate in the Caribbean. With enough islands to explore, eat and play at, time will pass quickly under glorious sunsets and intoxicating sunrises. Many boutique luxury posadas (former fishing homes) operate on the main island of Gran Roque.

Where to stay

Most posadas are simple but jolly. Because of the size and location of Gran Roque, you can walk around the main island in less than an hour. There are no cars on shore, but plenty of lovely bars. Several posadas provide clean and comfortable rooms, alongside excellent service and staff. www.posadalagunita.com

- 106 -

TOM MERRIFIELD

www.tommerrifield.co.uk 020 7431 0794

-t r av el-

ARGENTINA

Buenos Aires has long been on the radar of luxury travellers, offering diverse cultural activities such as world-envied galleries, top theatre and musical entertainment, epicurean delicacies and, of course, the sexiest of dance experiences – the seductive Tango. Exclusive hotel and retail chains also make this a great shopping city, giving NYC a run for its money across fashion and technology.

The architecture oozes Latin flair and European heritage, making it a supremely picturesque metropolis. Its residents enjoy a

café culture and are a welcoming, gregarious, football-loving people who make it well worth the effort to get there. Being the most visited city in South America ahead of Rio, BA is used to coping with a high number of tourists. Enjoy thrilling activities – from the obligatory Tango shows through to culinary classes, stadium visits, horse riding through the Pampas and everything you could expect from one of the world’s largest capital cities.

You will certainly not become restless for something to do.

Where to stay

Perfectly situated in the French district of Racoleta and close by the MALBA – the Latin American Museum of Art – the Park Hyatt is perfect for a cultural jaunt. www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html

- 108 -

-t r av el -

Where to stay

Directly on Playa Hermosa, The White House is a design masterpiece built by renowned Californian architect Michael Poirier. Next door is the five-star Pranamar yoga resort, which houses an amazing restaurant. However, full-time house staff are also on hand for catering and concierge services. The full property sleeps up to 14 guests, but also has separate cottages, making it the perfect place for a romantic or friends and family holiday. www.thewhitehouseofcostarica.com

COSTA RICA

Ticos – the name Costa Ricans give themselves – live by the mantra ‘Pura Vida’, the Pure Life.

And it’s very easy to see why. Surrounded by Atlantic and Pacific coasts, this lush and wild terrain has been gaining popularity in the luxury travel market for some time. More than a third of the country – small in relative size compared to other Latin American nations – has been given protected status, and as such Costa Rica has established itself as Central America’s ecotourist leader. Because of its size it’s easy to get around and experience everything it has to offer.

Surfing and yoga retreats in Playa Hermosa, trekking around iconic volcanoes, water rafting intense rapids and wildlife watching at the Manuel Antonio National Park are all within easy access of each other, and make for a real adventure trip from a luxury base.

A few luxury eco and boutique hotels can be found, but for something more unique settle yourself on the coastline and relax into the daily adventures on offer. Costa Rica’s peaceful wilderness will not last for long – somewhere this great will bring more and more cultured travellers to its shores, enticed by the essence of nature and the friendliness of the locals.

- 109 -

-t r av el -

PANAMA

The stunning archipelago of Bocas del Toro is another UNESCO-protected World Heritage Site and is considered the ‘Galapagos of the Caribbean’ due to its colossal biodiversity.

Consisting of thousands is islets, 52 cays and nine main islands, it’s Panama’s most visited ecotourism destination. Stretching from Panama’s northern coast along the mainland’s cloud forest and descending into dramatic island chains, this tropical treat maintains the right balance between development and raw natural beauty.

Picture- perfect postcard beaches await guests, and the islands provide a sensory playground for thrill-seekers. Sailing, diving in heavenly waters and zip-lining across rainforest canopies are just some of the activities on offer. The wildlife is a botanist’s dream; here you can see one of the world’s last remaining Monarch butterflies in their full glory. It’s impossible to see all of Bocas del Toro in just one visit, which is why so many visitors return or simply never leave.

Where to stay

One of the best and most private hotels in the area, with a range of suites and beautiful rooms. www.saraniresort.com

- 110 -

-t r av el -

CUBA

There is nowhere in the world quite like Havana. Arriving there really is like stepping back in time – a perfect trip straight to the colourful 50s and 60s, with unique architecture, superdaddy-oh Cadillacs and other sexy automobiles, and a raw and heady buzz of illicit speakeasys and times gone by. The atmosphere in Havana has a ‘live by the day’ undercurrent, making the locals a joy to spend time with.

The recent relaxation of decades-long laws are making Cuba a more open country to visit, yet ironically this was one of the first countries in Latin America to welcome international tourists. As such, many state-owned hotels have fallen into neglect, but there are a few international chains that provide excellent hospitality and services, albeit with slow internet access.

The sights, sounds, tastes and rhythms of this exciting country and city will be etched on your memory long after you have left.

There are a vast number of incredible tours you can experience – from art and photography through to architecture, music and dance.

Culinary workshops, galleries and museums are a staggering legacy of the level of education this country has developed, and contrast exquisitely with religious iconery and mafia expeditions.

This is really a city that lives and breathes pleasure – late-night parties mould naughtily into daytime beach recovery under the radiant prettiness of a cityscape unlike anywhere else.

Where to stay - 111 -

Overlooking the Malecon, this has a great location and offers wonderful sunset views. www.meliacuba.com/cuba-hotels/hotel-melia-cohiba

- c o m i n g n ext m o n t h -

29

2 9

3 0

30

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève / Monaco Yacht Show / H I P H O M ES St Lucia / B R EG U ET / Swiss ski special / W I N T ER C OATS / Watch Snob / Fortis

um Black Dlc

imepiece ever to combine mechanical and liquid unique Swiss technology and movement made with Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi - manual day power-reserve - driving a unique high-tech gy. HYT - a new dawn in watchmaking.

ompton Rd, London | t.+44 20 7730 1234 | www.harrods.com

MB&F / German watch special / LU X U RY J EW ELLERY Africa's hotel revolution / C H R I ST PO H ER WA R D / Bespoke shoes / Watch snob / H YT I C EB ERG

6 New Bond St, London | t.+44 20 7499 1434 | www.kronometry1999.com

S .CO M

RO LLS-ROYC E W R A I T H / Cannes Yachting Festival

30 Covers Combined FINAL.indd 1

07.08.2014 15:58:04

15/08/2014 12:40

3 1

16/09/2014 19:52

3 2

31

32

Max Büsser / Wearable technology / K I T ES U R FI N G I N C U BA / French ski special F1 track day / RO G ER S M I T H / High-end audio / Watch snob / Diving watches

er

Happy birthday to Tempus

Blancpain

/ Salon QP / H OT AU CT I O N S / Tahiti travel special / Watch snob / LU X U RY C H R I ST M AS W I S H LI ST

S K I I TA LY / Watch boutique guide

23

32 Covers Combined READ.indd 1

17/10/2014 11:47

3 3

19/11/2014 18:11

Next month we celebrate three fantastic years of bringing you news, views and ideas from the world of luxury timepieces, travel and lifestyle.

To celebrate, we are giving ourselves a makeover. Expect exciting new designs, inspiring columnists and, of course, all the very latest in horology.

And don’t forget you can enjoy Tempus at home, on the go or in your office.

3 4

33

34

Roger Dubuis / Winter sun special / P R I VAT E AV I AT I O N / Doha / Graff / Gift guide LU X U RY LEAT H ER / Rolls-Royce Ghost II / O M EGA / London’s best restaurants

1 34 Covers Combined v2 ga SUBBED.indd 1

Valentine’s gifts / Women’s Watches / BAG S O F STY LE / Gent’s gadgets / Truffle-hunting in France / LU X U RY WO R LDW I D E S PAS / The Savoy

PO RS C H E P R EV I EW

23/12/2014 11:43

28/01/2015 18:37

available march 31 35

Subscribe now

If you’d like to order a monthly copy of the print magazine go to Isubscribe.co.uk. If you’d like a digital copy sent straight to your inbox go to tempusmagazine.co.uk For editorial, advertising or promotional enquiries contact info@curvecontent.com or via twitter @Tempusmagazine

baselworld 2015 special issue

- 113 -

-m o m en t i n t i m e -

RED CARPET Style It’s usually the gowns that attract the most press coverage on Oscar night in Hollywood, but Matthew McConaughey is one of the few actors who can pull focus.

Wearing a Dolce & Gabbana dinner jacket, Bulgari watch, cufflinks, and studs, and Christian Louboutin shoes, McConaughey actually managed to avoid walking up the red carpet, entering the LA venue instead by a side door.

The actor, 45, achieved huge success in 2013 portraying a cowboy diagnosed with Aids in the biopic Dallas Buyers Club, which earned him the Oscar for Best Actor and a Golden Globe for Best Actor in a Drama, among other awards and nominations.

He also starred as Rustin Cohle in the acclaimed TV series True Detective and was recently included in Time magazine’s annual ‘100 Most Influential People in the World’ list.

Matthew attended the Academy Awards to present the Best Actress Oscar to Julianne Moore. After the ceremony stylists and fashion pundits hit the web to debate whether his new beard was a fashion mistake.

His watch of choice that evening was the Bulgari OCTO Solotempo Watch, which at least gave his fans something to admire.

bulgari.com

- 114 -

BASELWORLD | March 19 - 26, 2015 | HALL 2.2 - STAND CO3